September 2014
SINGAPORE
UNWIND IN THE
Movie sets, suites and supercars
MALDIVES Six decadent spas
BRAZIL BITES Table for two at Mani
LIFE IN MUSCAT
DINNER IN
YOUNTVILLE
Insights from a local
The West Coast’s foodie capital
24 HOURS IN
MILAN
TRAVEL TALK Tumi CEO Jerome Griffith
Strut into Fashion Week
LONDON
GOURMET
How the UK capital went from zero-to-hero in a few decades
ESCAPE IT ALL
The ultimate itineraries
IGNITION
McLaren 650S Spider
SUITE DREAMS The London Edition
WHY LUX* YOU MAY ASK? BECAUSE OUR 2,018 TEAM MEMBERS UNDERSTAND YOUR TIME IS PRECIOUS. IT’S WHY EACH ONE OF US HAS COMMITTED TO MAKE EACH MOMENT MATTER... IT’S WHY WE WISH TO HELP YOU CELEBRATE LIFE... AND IT’S WHY WE CREATED A BRAND OF HOLIDAY THAT’S SIMPLY MORE LIGHT-HEARTED. THERE ARE 2,018 ANSWERS TO YOUR QUESTION BUT TO HELP YOU DECIDE, CHIERI WOULD LIKE TO SHARE ONE OF HER FAVOURITE REASONS TO GO LUX*
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PHONE HOME We believe that holidays should be stress and hassle-free, which is why if you explore our resorts you’ll find a telephone box and inside a vintage phone. Here you can make local and international calls free of charge. We just ask one thing. Please do not call the office! Chieri Yokoshima, Guest Relation
LUX* MALDIVES
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Sectiony
September 2014
On the cover 62 Singapore swing
92 Milan in 24 hours
74 Island healing
96 Insider... Muscat
Hotels, eateries and bucket-list activities for new-gen luxury travellers Six of the best indulgent spa experiences in the Maldives
In search of the most exclusive hotspots in Italy’s fashion capital Cultural attractions and luxury resort escapes in Oman’s ancient capital
82 Northern exposure
From the Neuer Wall to the neon lights of the Reeperbahn, Hamburg has it all
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Magic after dark
The Over-Water Spa at Conrad Maldives Rangali Island is one of many indulgent wellness escapes in the island archipelago
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Alfred Dunhill Ltd
Contents title
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September 2014
146 50
In the news 36 Europe 50 Debut
Art hotels; the best new suites; London’s highest pool; Rome revival
Hot hotels, chic boutiques and exclusive new resorts
40 Middle East & Africa 52 Diary Celebrity projects in Dubai; Skeleton Coast deluxe; high-end yacht rentals
56 134
The best exhibitions, festivals and sporting events this month
44 Asia & Oceania 54 VIP
‘Local’ experiences at luxury hotels; food meets design in Taipei
Behind the scenes at the Omega European Masters in Crans Montana
48 Americas 56 Interview
Champagne suites in New York; a face-lift for Ritz-Carlton in Montreal
Tumi CEO Jerome Griffith talks Harley Davidsons and twin-props
Spend it 130 Escape 140 Set sail
The finest tailored itineraries for connoisseurs and sports fans
There’s more than a hint of secretagent style about Project Skyfall
134 On the road 146 Suite dreams
Bugatti’s last Veyron revealed; BMW’s i8 changes eveything
Ian Schrager makes his big UK comeback at The London Edition
138 Ignition
The McLaren 650S Spider puts the ‘super’ back into ‘supercar’
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Contents
September 2014
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Gourmet travel 102 Taste of... 112 Spirit of travel
Yountville is a magnet for aspiring young chefs and intrepid foodies
Life is one big celebration with Japan’s national drink
106 Restaurant news 116 Reservation NYC legend Le Cirque hits the road; degustation in Hong Kong
Brazilian tradition meets modern flair at São Paulo hotspot, Maní
108 Gourmet journey 118 London bites
The culinary treasures of Paris will seduce unsuspecting visitors
How the UK capital evolved into a culinary capital in a few decades
110 Chef’s table
Two restaurateurs are putting the fun back into LA’s food scene
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News
The latest news from the world of luxury travel
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Golden brown The new Sky Suite at Klaus K hotel in Helsinki is one of a raft of new luxury suites to launch in Europe this month
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Luxury travel news from around the world
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This month’s pick of new hotels
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Top global events this September
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VIP at the Omega European Masters
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A chat with Tumi CEO Jerome Griffith
Capri Palace Hotel & Spa
Europe’s contemporary renaissance Comfort can be found in f a m i l i a r i t y, b u t n e w a n d innovative creative expressions can be a key ingredient in enhancing luxury experiences. That’s why hotels are increasingly placing an emphasis on the infusion of contemporary art. The boutique Dylan Amsterdam announced its partnership with the city’s Morren Galleries last month, inviting visitors inside to explore choice samples of photographic contemporary art. The collaboration involves an exclusive exhibition, complemented by the hotel’s own aesthetic and colour pallet. All of the figurative artworks hanging in the hotel’s Brasserie OCCO and The Long
Gallery are also available to buy – accessible to both hotel guests and visitors to the restaurants and bars. Further south, The First Luxury Art Hotel Roma is a showcase of more than 150 contemporary art pieces and serves as an exhibition space for young artists and twentieth century masters alike. The hotel’s collection, curated by Galleria Mucciaccia and its owner, Massimiliano Mucciaccia, is strewn throughout its suites, lobby, corridors, restaurant and bar. The collector has sought to give visibility to Italy’s contemporary art movement and has promoted the gallery hotel as a space where artists, critics, collectors and students can commune and commission new creative projects.
On the same southern trajectory, the Capri Palace Hotel & Spa boasts suites inspired by artistic icons Wassily Kandinsky, Piet Mondrian and Joan Mirò. The decorative oil paintings are an homage to the contemporary masters, and serve as an alternative view to the panoramic Mediterranean views from the windows. There’s been even more contemporary art on the Med; the Ocean Sapphire recently hosted a selection of Andy Warhol works in collaboration with Sardinia’s Forte Village Resort. The 41-metre yacht, designed by Foster & Partners, was moored at the resort last month as a gourmet dining venue and floating hommage to one of the 20th century’s most iconic artists.
Europe
London’s sky-high swimming pooL Sitting on the 52nd floor of London’s iconic Shard tower, hotel guests at Shangri-La Hotel, At The Shard, London can now soak up city views from the highest pool in Western Europe. Nicknamed “skypool”, the Shangri-La swimming pool area is situated well over 180 metres above the UK capital, with views over the London Eye, Westminster and St Paul’s Cathedral. The 10-metre pool was designed by Hong Kong-based architect Andre Fu, who also fashioned the hotel’s Gong bar, located on the same floor. From 8.30pm, a screened off area will allow access to patrons of Gong but, with no lifeguard on duty, there’s no late-night swimming allowed.
Presidential indulgence in Switzerland The grand resorT Bad Ragaz unveiled its two-bedroom Presidential Suite this summer – a 300 square metre space on the fifth floor of the Spa Suites building, with a living room, smokers’ lounge, wine cabinet and kitchen. But, a little more out of the ordinary, the suite boasts an impressive four balconies, with views over the nearby Bündner Herrschaft vineyards
and the Rhine Valley. The Claudio Carbone interiors incorporate Venetian Murano glass lamps and other lighting fixtures, decorated with Swarovski stones. The Presidential Suite can be extended to become a 600-square metre Presidential Floor, with separate living areas, additional balconies and a total of six bedrooms, all with their own dedicated bathrooms.
The BreidenBacher hof has completed it exclusive ninth floor. Following a long period of construction, the hotel’s Royal Floor is now the home of
five suites and six guestrooms that can be adapted to become larger units. The whole floor starts at EUR 28,000 (US $37,000) per night, promising maximum discretion, complete with a private entrance off Heinrich-Heine-Allee in the heart of Düsseldorf. The Royal Floor also welcomes the addition of a new “Grand Deluxe” room category, designed with built-in kitchenettes, ideal for long-stay guests.
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Photo: Patrice D Antonio
VIP OMEGA EUROPEAN MASTERS 2014 Tournament director Yves Mittaz tells us how to enjoy the Masters like a VIP Action at last year’s Omega European Masters Dizzying views of the Alps from LeCrans Hotel & Spa
EvEnt The Omega European Masters has always been among the most renowned of the international sporting events held in Switzerland. The 2014 tournament (September 4-7) will celebrate a double jubilee: the 80th year of the Swiss Open and 50 years with Gaston F. Barras at the helm of the organising committee. The Crans-sur-Sierre Golf Club has hosted the tournament since 1939, making it the oldest among the European Tour events played on the same course each year.
Ambience The weekend competition days are particularly popular, with an outdoor concert on the Saturday afternoon and the Sunday, with the prize-giving ceremony and the handover of the Red Jacket. If any VIP guests are keen golfers, they can take part in the two organised Pro-Ams, with each team composed of one pro and three guests. They can also participate in a one-hour clinic, where a well-known pro will give a golf lesson to about 10 guests, showing them new tricks and helping them with their technique. A VIP entry ticket to watch the competition includes lunch and a glass of champagne by the 13th hole, access to an exclusive area with a view of the course, and tickets to the 18th green grandstand. Crans-sur-Sierre Golf Club enjoys a formidable backdrop The Guarda Golf Hotel stands next to the 9th hole
Rub shouldeRs with Many high-profile guests including Omega’s president, Stephen Urquhart, and Roger Moore, though the best guest is the sunshine. Of course, you’ll also be able to see pro golfers such as Thomas Björn, Jamie Donaldson and Darren Clarke.
AfteR dARk This year there will be an exclusive dinner organised by Omega in the restaurant of mountain-top hotel, Chetzeron, with a private concert by a Swiss singer, Bastian Baker.
stAy Le Crans Hotel boasts a stunning view of the Alps and of the valley below, while The Guarda Golf Hotel is a peaceful base located near the 9th hole. Both are members of The Leading Hotels of the World.
dine La Cabane des Violettes, a mountain hut 2200m above sea level, is great for Swiss specialties including fondue, assiette valaisanne and röstis. L’Hostellerie du Pas de l’Ours is another great restaurant that also boasts a Michelin star. Its chef is Franck Reynaud, a man with strong Provençal roots.
must do It’s worth spending a day at Chetzeron, admiring the stunning mountain view. If you also want to do some shopping (or pick up some stylish picks for the fairways), stroll along Rue du Prado in town, where all the famous boutiques are located, from Bally to Prada and Louis Vuitton.
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_cityshopping cityshopping
Š Getty
Set out on an unforgettable shopping trip! The flagship store of a world-famous design label? On a nearby boulevard. A boutique with glamorous accessories? Just around the corner. In fact, the next bargain is waiting for you right now at: www.germany.travel/shopping
Destinations
The world’s most desirable locations
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Ahead of the curve Innovative dining, hospitality and lifestyle concepts are putting the fun back into luxury travel in Singapore
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Singapore puts the fun back into luxury
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Six sensational spas in the Maldives
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History repeats itself in Hamburg
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See the best of Milan in 24 hours
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Experience Muscat like a local
Singapore
Singapore’S
light luxuries From supercar tours to Hollywood movie shoots, Singapore presents a fun approach to high-end travel Words: Sanjay Surana
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Singapore
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Singapore
W
e all have a picture of what luxury means. Where one dictionary defines it as “something inessential but conducive to pleasure and comfort,” another describes it as “great comfort, especially as provided by expensive and beautiful things.” Yet, either by association or experience, the word can have less desirable connotations: stiff, formal and aloof. What happened to the fun of luxury? Singapore, it seems, is answering that question. Thanks to a slew of forward-thinking hotels, restaurants and experience providers, the destination is rejecting the hallowed, holier-than-thou attitude toward luxury in favour of a more accessible, inviting version.
Call it ‘The approachable lightness of luxe’, where all the hallmarks of traditional luxury come, blissfully, without any of the pretence and heaviness. “Classic luxury is a dated, boring concept,” says John Sutherland, who runs his own concierge service in Singapore. “Everywhere, I see travel agents offering their version of luxury, but high-net-worth customers can purchase that version from any mobile device. What clients can’t buy easily is someone with the imagination to turn dreams into reality; to create an experience for a client that makes them laugh or cry with joy. That is luxury.” One such experience is a short film shot with Hollywood producers and art directors; something that Sutherland
can arrange for a modest price of around US $300,000. A client submits a narrative that forms the basis of the script and Sutherland connects the wannabe star to producers and designers in California. They hash out the details before the Hollywood heavyweights fly to Singapore and immortalise the idea on celluloid, or more likely a flash drive. “A client may come to me and say, ‘I want to recreate a scene from Pirates of the Caribbean and the budget is $3 million, can you do it?’ Of course I can.” Hotels here are also taking note of the evolving tastes, replacing traditional furnishings and staid neoclassical styling with whimsy, bling, and a little bravura. The Sofitel So, which is only a few months old, boasts a futuristic
Singapore
“Hotels here are also taking note of the evolving tastes, replacing traditional furnishings and staid neoclassical styling with whimsy, bling, and a little bravura”
aesthetic, with hexagonal and octagonal angular light fixtures filled with crystal beads, lifts with pastel-hued embossed leather walls, and furnishings such as sensuously curved couches and armchairs with antlers on the back. The Xperience restaurant menus look like experimental science-class drawings. “Nowadays, luxury travel is linked to carefully curating life experiences and discovery. There is a newfound zest for living life and adding fun, surprising elements that can make a traveller’s journey a memorable one,” asserts Bobby Hiranandani, managing director of Royal Group Holdings, which owns Sofitel So. At the Pan Pacific Singapore, luxury translates to simple, tailored touches
Fresh perspective (above) W Singapore Sentosa Cove is all about innovative elements and fresh experiences Towering icons (previous page) The impressive panorama of Marina Bay spanning the Supertrees of Gardens by the Bay and the iconic Marina Bay Sands towers
like a surprise chocolate at turndown in the shape of a cigar for a guest who is a cigar aficionado, or a quirky globe cake for a guest who’s a fanatical traveller. “Travel has always been about adventure,” says general manager, Scott Swank. “Hoteliers these days need to think out of the box to create aspects of guests’ stays that are unexpected, refreshing, personalised and fun.” Over on Sentosa Island, at the twoyear-old W Singapore Sentosa Cove, the lobby is a lounge where bar staff mix drinks at all hours, the pool has 24 built-in speakers, and personal fashion shows are arranged on the premises. General manager Stephane Fabregoul believes it is vital to offer innovative elements and fresh experiences: “In this
era, people are getting more savvy and they always yearn to try something new. Stepping out of the comfort zone allows one to experience new adventures which can boost your mood.”
FEELING SKY HIGH Residential developments are starting to follow the trend. Hamilton Scotts, a condo tower developed by KOP Properties near Orchard Road, opened in June 2012 with sky garages. “The concept for Hamilton Scotts was to develop a residential property which can offer both fun and unique luxury,” explains Anton Kilayko, director of marketing for parent company KOP Limited. By using a dedicated lift that hugs the side of the building, residents
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Maldives
ISLAND HEALING As if the Maldives isn’t already relaxing enough, its beautiful spa experiences make it even harder to leave Words: Rebecca Haddad
T
ranquil waters, pristine sands, soft sea breezes: the trifecta of the ideal island escape. Yet the Maldives offers one other element that completes a blissful break: a collection of sensational spas. As busy lives get busier and new technology ensures we are always ‘switched on’, a holiday becomes more than just sightseeing or sun-seeking with a cocktail in hand.
We seek a more immersive escape, one that includes an invigorating massage, soothing body wrap, a morning yoga class and a cleansing detox plan with beautiful sea views. We’ve picked out six of the most indulgent, luxurious and unique spa experiences to be had in the Maldives, guaranteed to have you swaying like the leaves of palm trees the destination is famed for.
ESCAPE WITHIN AN ESCAPE
Conrad Maldives Rangali Island Those looking for a getaway-within-a-getaway need look no further than Conrad’s Spa Retreat. Located 50 metres off the northern tip of the island, the stilted Spa Retreat comprises nine couple’s treatment rooms, five with private steam rooms, saunas and jacuzzis. There’s also accommodation in the form of 12 Water Retreat Villas, should you want to stay marooned for the duration of your stay – opt for one with a private treatment room and you’ll never have to leave your villa. Treatments are based on the five elements (fire, earth, wind, water and plant life), which each focus on different objectives, from relaxation to detoxification. You can choose to mix-and-match your treatments or focus on one ‘element’. And if you’re travelling with kids, they’re taken care of too, with a range of age-appropriate ice-cream inspired treatments. The Spa Retreat is very popular with mainland guests, so it’s best to book your treatments a minimum of 14 days in advance. Water Retreat Villas from $1,400 per night conradhotels3.hilton.com
Maldives
NATURE’S REMEDIES
Six Senses Laamu The sustainability principles upheld by Six Senses extends to every aspect of the company’s Maldives resort, including its spa facilities. Aside from the usual palm-thatched huts of so many other resorts in the island nation, the spa also has four quirky couple’s treatment ‘nests’ (left), made from woven natural woods and surrounded by the island’s natural vegetation. Six Senses spa therapists as use organic products throughout the range of signature therapies and treatments available, including coconut, ginger and basalt stones. For something truly indulgent, opt for the Asian Fusion Journey — four-and-a-half hours of body scrubbing, Balinese massage, Indian head massage and foot acupressure. There’s also a Detoxifier Journey that lasts half an hour longer and includes a steam room, body polish and wrap, and a facial, detox massage and foot acupressure. Asian Fusion Journey from $576 and Detoxifier Journey from $626 www.sixsenses.com
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Maldives
A Touch of TrAdiTion
Dusit Thani Maldives Set among the island’s towering palm trees in the most densely vegetated area of Dusit Thani Maldives, Devarana Spa includes six treatment rooms which sit on elevated platforms among the palm trees. There’s also two rooms back on land for those who want to keep their feet – and treatments – firmly on the ground. Therapies have a heavy focus on traditional Thai healing methods (a nod to the resort’s Southeast Asian heritage), which can be experienced in the two-hour Harmony of Tad Si treatment, which is based on Buddhist teachings and uses Thai herbs and massage to relax muscles and rebalance the four elements (‘Tad Si’) of the human body (earth, water, wind and fire). The spa also offers three- to sevenday wellness programmes combining workouts, cleansing meal plans and Thai and Ayurvedic spa treatments to rebalance your body and mind. Post-treatment, chill out till the sun sets at the 750-square-metre infinity pool, the largest in the Maldives. Harmony of Tad Si treatment from $200 per person www.devaranaspa.com
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A p lA c e t h At feels lik e it wAs m Ade for you
Because it was here, barefoot luxury meets unpretentious style in a place that’s as unique as you. home to whale sharks, manta rays, dolphins and an incredible coral reef just steps from the beach, it’s been awarded “the Best water Villas in the world”, “the Best luxury resort in the maldives” and “Best spa resort in the maldives”. two spas, eight restaurants and four lounges round out the luxury experience.
Conrad Maldives Rangali Island For reservations contact MLEHI.maldives@conradhotels.com or visit www.ConradMaldives.com
Hamburg
Hamburg
A river
runs through it From the waters of the Elbe to the neon-lit streets of the Reeperbahn, Hamburg’s colourful character is inseparable from its liberal past Words: Steven Bond
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Hamburg
A
midst its innumerable stoic spires, century-old angular brick buildings and post-modern glass façades, the storied city of Hamburg is abuzz with 1,500 years of history. The affluent port is Germany’s second largest city, permeated by the river Elbe, and strewn with more bridges than Venice, linking luxury retail avenues to grungy neon nightspot, the Reeperbahn, and back again to the tranquil Inner Alster Lake at the heart of the city. While the northern German enclave has been described as “the southernmost Scandinavian city”, Hamburg has more of an affinity for its island neighbour, the UK. Britain’s Anglo-Saxon heritage was largely forged by migrants who came from the ancient ports of northern
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Germany, but Hamburg has inherited more traits from its ancient diaspora in the modern era. The Germanic northerners share a sardonic sense of humour with the self-deprecating Brits, but the influence extends even to the late Victorian and Georgian architecture prevalent in many of the lush, tree-lined suburbs, home to some of the city’s estimated 1,500 millionaires. Given the state is bloated with mega corporations like Google, Siemens and Philips, it’s hardly surprising that a generous handful of billionaires call Hamburg home. Despite attracting white-collar wealth, the city’s lifeblood has always been its port. Since Charlemagne (Charles I) erected a castle there over a millennium ago, the mouth of the River Elbe has welcomed merchants
traditional charm (top to bottom) the Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten; Hamburg’s Town Hall is the heart of the city night lights (previous page) historic buildings line the Alster Promenade on the edge of the eponymous lake
from around the world, building a gateway from northern Europe to the world. The city is currently striving toward a 2025 Port Development Plan, with innovative sustainability policies and improved infrastructure, but a thousand years before Dubai, Hamburg exploded with prosperity by slashing trade duties and welcoming blue-collar sailors from across the globe, thirsty for respite and revelry. Therein lies this destination’s dichotomy.
Don’t fear the reeperbahn It was the constant tide of foreign visitors who helped spawn the Reeperbahn in the St. Pauli district, the iconic neighbourhood that remains today. So named from the ropes that were woven here, “Rope Street” began to cater to nautical thrill-seekers from the 17th century onwards. The devil made work for idle sailors along “the sinful mile” for centuries, until the Nazi regime put the kibosh on illicit activities in the 1930s. Hamburg’s Chinatown was simultaneously lost, as the fascists rounded up the city’s Chinese expats into nearby concentration camps. But the vibrancy returned decades later with the help of a more British invasion. It was in 1962 when Hamburg unwittingly welcomed Liverpudlian upstarts, The Beatles. The arrival of the Fab Four simultaneously quickened the band’s rise toward stardom and sealed the Reeperbahn into pop culture history as a touring hub for unsigned and fledgling musicians.
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Terms and conditions apply. Š 2014 The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company
Gourmet
Your ultimate guide to luxury dining
108 Towering delicacies
Sweet treats like these Ladurée macaroons abound in Paris, the foodie capital of the world
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Yountville: a taste of classic wine country cuisine
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Once forgotten, Los Angeles is back on the foodie radar
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Culinary news from all corners of the world
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Everything you need to know about sake sampling
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An authentic taste of Brazil at São Paulo’s Mani
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Paris is truly a moveable feast
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Sating London’s apetite for culinary excellence
ay ams nR o rd Go
DEGUSTATION ... HONG KONG Ramsay kneads Hong Kong Gordon Ramsay is opening Bread Street Kitchen in central Hong Kong this month, mirroring his celebrated London restaurant of the same name. The warehouse-style space will incorporate a fusion of vintage and modern design, with a menu consisting of British and European fare. The tyrant of Hell’s Kitchen will follow up with a number of other Asian openings throughout next year, with Singapore and Macau on the cards. Jamie brings Italian to Asia Jamie Oliver remains indomitable with his furious expansion of restaurants worldwide, and the beloved Brit recently opened the first Jamie’s Italian in Hong Kong. The colourful 200-seat venue sits in Soundwill Plaza II, in Causeway Bay’s Midtown, with reported queues reflecting the anticipation of rustic Italian dishes done well. Since the very first Jamie’s Italian opened in 2008, the group has grown to over 40 locations worldwide. French chefs fancy fresh start A trio of French chefs have recently transitioned to a new start in Hong Kong. Olivier Elzer, former executive chef at L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, opened up Seasons in Causeway Bay last month. Philippe Orrico, who was Elzer’s predecessor at Pierre, started his Hong Kong journey at St George in Kowloon, but is now chef and owner of the Upper Modern Bistro in Sheung Wan. And Frederic Chabbert has left Island Shangri-La’s Petrus restaurant after eight years to become a partner at Central Hong Kong’s Mano, which was renovated and reopened August 1.
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Malouf plots course for Dubai Melbournian master chef Greg Malouf is readying his first Dubai restaurant, scheduled to open later this year. The Michelin-star culinary wizard is opening Clé Dubai at Al Fattan Currency House in Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC), offering exquisite variations of popular Levantine fare. The restaurant will also double up as a lively arts and performance venue, with a bar and lounge adjoining the fine dining space. Malouf, born Down Under to Lebanese parents, grew up eating dishes concocted in the family home. Decades later, he was awarded on a recent visit to Lebanon, recognising his contribution to Lebanese food culture overseas.
Le Cirque pulls a pop-up in NYC Legendary New York City society restaurant, Le Cirque, is due to debut a new fine casual dining spot in New York this month, for a limited time only. Le Cirque Brasserie will pop-up in conjunction with the New York Art, Antique & Jewelry Show at the Park Avenue Armory, running from September 18 to 21. The team has put together an eclectic menu that will deliver French fancies from the southern provinces, as well as Tuscan favourites. The Sirio Maccioniowned brasserie will then migrate south to its permanent home in Palm Beach, Florida. There are already plans to follow up with another eatery in the Big Apple.
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Too good to eat Sea trout crudo at Nuno Mendes’ Chiltern Firehouse, one of the most sought after restaurants in London
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Photo: Jamie Orlando Smith
London
London
London’s revolution England’s capital has transformed from the gastronomic sick man of Europe into one of the culinary capitals of the world within a single generation. Joseph Reaney finds out how
L
ondon’s fine-dining scene during the 1980s was rather different to today. Back then, a well-regarded restaurant could survive by serving a threecourse menu of a prawn cocktail (cold shrimps drowned in ketchup and mayo), a kidney-filled pie, and a worryingly wobbly dessert. Those with the airs and graces to order wine may be offered simply “red or white”. And if you had asked an Italian, an American or a French person about the city’s culinary credentials, they’d be reaching for the joke books. Yet, less than 30 years on, the story could not be more different. In 2014 London is considered to be one of the culinary capitals of the world. So, how has the British capital managed to pull off this great transformation over
the course of a single generation? It boils down to a few key elements, from diversity to creativity.
CHAnGInG ATTITUdEs The first and perhaps most significant impact on London’s culinary scene in the last 30 years has been the changing attitudes of the population. Since the recession of the early ’80s, incomes in the UK have steadily increased, leading to a burgeoning middle class — especially in London — who began to travel overseas. Exposure to more refined cuisine and smarter service meant they returned home with greater knowledge, more distinguished palates and heightened expectations, which led to more finedining restaurants opening in the city, eager to service a new breed of Londoner who valued quality over cost.
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London
Michelin-starred Marcus Wareing, chef patron of Marcus at The Berkeley, believes Britain has been through a huge cultural shift when it comes to food. “Our attitudes to food have changed immensely over the last 30 years,” he says. “Food has become more and more central to our daily lives. We’ve very much followed the European approach to food, where the kitchen is the heart of the home and meal times are central to life, bringing families and friends together to enjoy great food and wine. “We are also now far more aware of what we’re eating, the nutritional value, and the origin of produce than we were 30 years ago,” he adds. The growth in organic and fair-trade restaurants in London has been huge, but there’s also an increasing amount of restaurants catering to specialist diets, from vegetarian and vegan to gluten-free. Leading chef Alyn Williams believes this shift in attitudes is the biggest contributor to the UK capital’s new status as a culinary heavyweight.
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Regal splendour (below) Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park London is home to the UK’s top-rated restaurant, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal
“Bit by bit, Britain has evolved from a country of culinary philistines to a nation of real foodies” “The change in British attitudes to food is immeasurable,” he claims. “As diners, we’ve become much more open-minded. The dining culture has transformed from the bottom to top-end; to every cooking level and price range you can imagine. I think the pub-dining scene — this casual, yet sophisticated, way of dining — has revolutionised the way we look at eating out. We are now punching our weight alongside Paris, Barcelona and Milan, and that wasn’t always the case.”
STAR POWER Bit by bit, Britain has evolved from a country of culinary philistines to a nation of real foodies. Dining out, once considered the wasteful extravagance of city bankers, has become a regular expectation for people of almost all
backgrounds and incomes. Cookery programmes began to dominate television schedules and celebrity chefs like Marco Pierre White brought rockand-roll glamour to the stuffy world of haute cuisine. Today’s star chefs, like Jamie Oliver, Gordon Ramsay and Nigella Lawson, oversee multi-milliondollar empires. “The rise of the ‘celebrity chef’ has changed the culinary landscape in a very positive way,” explains Wareing. “People gravitate to them and listen and learn from them. Look at what Jamie Oliver has done. Not only has he opened up a new breed of restaurants to London, offering delicious but very affordable food, he has also connected in a real way to the average person regarding standards of home cooking.”
Fresh flavours (clockwise from bottom) Traditional savoury porridge with roast cod at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal; the chef in his London kitchen with head chef Ashley Palmer-Watts; decadent desserts at Alyn Williams at The Westbury
Photo: Ashley Palmer-Watts
Photo: Alisa Connan
London
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ALONG CAME A SPIDER The McLaren 650S Spider puts the ‘super’ back into supercar Words: Joe Mortimer
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Ignition
THERE IS SOME rare wizardry afoot in the south of England. The world has seen plenty of brutal supercars capable of tearing fillings from the teeth of unsuspecting drivers over the years: carmakers such as Lamborghini, Ferrari and Bugatti have all come up with their fair share of eye-twitchingly quick automobiles that scare the wits out of other road users, but few have managed to package this kind of power and acceleration in a car that you can actually drive comfortably, without fear, on a dayto-day basis. Then McLaren came to the party. The British carmaker unveiled the 650S at the Geneva Motor Show in March this year, drawing a collective gasp from audiences around the world. With an exterior design inspired by its predecessor, the P1 hybrid supercar, the 650S is spectacular to behold. A low-slung, aerodynamic shape is perched on 20-inch, five-spoke lightweight alloy wheels with Pirelli P Zero tyres, and the gaping air intakes on either side of the car give you an idea of how hot the 3.8-litre, twin-turbocharged V8 gets. The latter can be spied through a transparent rear hood, which is all the more apparent when the two-part hardtop roof is lowered on the Spider variant, turning the 650S into a jaw-dropping roadster. The rear end is all carbon fibre, spoiler and exhaust, with lots of angular protrusions and very little body colour. It looks a bit like the rear has been torn away from the car during a very rapid take-off, which doesn’t seem all that unlikely if you have driven it. Yes, the 650S is indeed a supercar in every sense of the word, and driving it requires a lot of open road, which, in this case, means the long winding blacktop that leads from Dubai on the west coast of the UAE to Fujairah on the east coast, then back again — a round-trip of almost 330 kilometres that whizz past in a blur of driving joy. As the 0-100 kph time of three seconds suggests, the 650S is quick. Very quick. There is only so much you can do with a car on civilian roads, but believe me when I say that this car is
NUTS & BOLTS Engine: 3.8-litre twin-turbo V8 Power: 641 bhp Torque: 678 Nm (@ 6,000 rpm) 0–100 kph: 3.0 secs 0–200 kph: 8.4 secs 0-300 kph: 25.4 secs Top speed: 333 kph Fuel consumption: 11.7 l/100 km CO2 emissions: 275 g/km Origin: Surrey, UK Price: from AED 1,161,000 (US $316,000) in the UAE
capable of going much faster than you will ever need it to outside of a racetrack. Switching the handling settings to Sport mode makes the car’s already gecko-like grip on the tarmac even firmer, allowing you to inch up the cornering speed to Daytona-like proportions on wide turns. Adaptive damping means that however hard you push the corners, the car remains even and balanced, so you can dart around the mountain roads without breaking a sweat, and ceramic brakes reduce the stopping distance to just 124 metres from a 200kph clip. If it’s too hot or noisy to drop the roof, you can lower the small glass window
behind the driver to allow that wonderful V8 noise directly into the cabin, providing the soundtrack to this multi-sensory ride. Not only is it both road-legal and relatively affordable (relative to the P1, at least), the 650S is, perhaps most importantly, driveable. Not “I’m popping down the shops for a paper,” driveable, but you could feasibly drive it to work every day. In fact, if you owned one, you most definitely would. After three hours behind the wheel, I feel exhilarated and ready for another three hours, unlike my experience with other cars in its league, which have all required a sit-down and a cup of tea after driving them for little more than an hour. Inside, the bare, racing minimalism of many supercars has been replaced with a stylish carbon fibre and suede interior in dark grey, with contrasting piping and trim in the same colour as the body, which in this case is Tarocco Orange. The central console boasts a simple, contemporary design in two-tone black and white that’s reminiscent of something out of the TV series 24, and air-conditioning units that look like mini aircraft jet engines complete with turbines. It is stylish, functional and, above all, comfortable. Getting in and out of the two front seats, which are perched inches above ground level, requires some practice, but the dramatic entrance you make when stepping out from the open dihedral “butterfly” doors makes it well worth it. Hailed as a dramatic improvement on the McLaren MP4-12C, the 650S Spider is a morethan-adequate consolation prize for anyone who wasn’t lucky enough to snag one of the 375 McLaren P1 models that sold for a starting price of US $1.35 million. But ‘consolation prize’ is an unfair term for an outstanding automobile that has managed to capture the performance and handling of the world’s greatest supercars and present it in a package that is uniquely respectful to both its racing prowess, and the comfort of the driver. The 650S is, in truth, nothing short of revolutionary. Others have already started following in its footsteps (Lamborghini’s Huracán, for example, which shares a similar price tag and is positioned to be the Italian carmaker’s most driven car to date), but the 650S will remain the one that changed the game. From it’s no-less-than-iconic appearance to its addictive driveability, the McLaren 650S has put the ‘super’ back into supercar. ■
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