REFASHION ASIA, Vol.1 No.3, 20 Oct 2024

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This newsletter translates the fearsome equations of the scientific literature and the algorithms of applied technology into summaries that managers of the circular garment industry can use to create new products and improve old ones.

We welcome contributions and news from any reader with a role in advancing the interests of the fashion creation and garment trade.

Subscribers may request a printable full-size A4 PDF of this report from fashionasiatoday@gmail.com or directly from ISSUU.com at <https://issuu.com/home/docs/nosv0pekmd8>

Three winners of the R|Elan Circular Design Challenge 2024

Since 2018, the R|Elan Circular Design Challenge has showcased emerging talent in sustainable fashion and circular innovations. In its 6th Edition, R|Elan CDC partnered with the British Council, Istituto Marangoni, and Redress HK to present exciting innovators. The candidate designers were juried by industry experts and key international media in London, Milan, Hong Kong, and Mumbai. Presented by the R|Elan fabric brand of Reliance Industries Limited partnering with the United Nations in India, CDC promotes a greener, more sustainable future through eco-conscious creativity, waste, and the carbon footprint of the fashion industry.

Ritwik Khanna (RKive City 2050)

Ritwik Khanna (RKive City 2050) reimagines textile waste into fashion-forward pieces. His collections feature patchwork from old jeans and upcycled materials. “I want to inspire the next generation to view waste as a resource.”

“Winning was a way to let people know know what we believe in. The clothes we make and our upcycling methods should encourage everyone to believe in the art of the possible.”

Learning by Doing When the COVID-19 pandemic struck in 2020, Ritwik’s carefully laid plans went behind the masks along with his future market’s faces. He was forced to return to his family in Amritsar to help run their generations-old textile business. Ever the student, Ritwik took a hard look at the supply chain of consumer throwaways. Khan told Manglein Gangte, writing in Vogue India, “I have gone through around 1,00,000 pieces of post-consumer clothes back when I used to work in the textile waste houses in Gujarat where we would import textile waste from a Goodwill or a Salvation Army and then further sort it down to curation that European and Western markets could resell in their vintage stores. That is actually where most of my fashion education happened, as opposed to my time at the Fashion Institute of Technology.”

For anything to be circular, the raw material must be able to be used again and again without deteriorating the quality. =Ritwik Khanna

Picky-Picky Pays Off As Mangelein Gangte describes Ritvik’s save-it-all ethos, “One of our major practices is that we save almost every bit of our by-products even if it's only the old thread or zippers from damaged jackets that come out of our post-consumer textile waste. We save them and reuse them into either reconstructive sewing or any one of our numerous embroidery practices and we continue to explore apparel and lifestyle goods. Old buttons can be reused by including them in embroideries, even though it is difficult to reuse certain buttons. Our printmaking technique takes inspiration from natural patina on paper and other materials. We scan and preserve those textures and layer those memories with the fabric’s memory. We reproduce art on textiles, which is very hard to do. We also curate patchwork garments to revive these pre-loved clothes.”

Denim, that ubiquitous workhorse in every wardrobe, became Ritvik’s textile of choice for several reasons. “There is one fabric that never fails to make an impact the democratic denim. Unfortunately, the denim industry has a bad rap as being environmentally unfriendly — starting with the pesticides used to grow its raw materials, then the chemical dyes, not to mention the 1800 gallons of water to make a pair. For me the way to close the water tap on this wasteful textile was to reuse existing swatches instead of cutting new ones.”

Ritvik taught himself and his working team how to reconstruct worn-out clothes into modern silhouettes like flared jeans, skirts, jackets, and household items like patchwork denim cushions.

Learn more about Ritwik Khanna: Fashion Is About Making Sustainability Sexy, Grazia India Denim upcycling brand Rkive City's Ritwik Khanna discusses his unconventional approach to starting his fashion business , Vogue India

Khanna’s

City 2050 creates wearable, versatile clothing from post-consumer textile waste, The Established

Ritwik
Rkive
Silvia Acién

“I come from a rural part of Andalusia in Spain. Growing up at my parent’s farm influenced my way of interacting with my surroundings. Respecting nature is one of the most important parts of my life. I try to bring this into every piece of clothing I create by using natural and regenerative elements.”

Acién's collection embodies the essence of heritage, intertwining ancestral memories and wisdom.

“Guided by my grandmother’s wisdom, I honour my heritage through traditional techniques she taught me and local resources that belong to my village, such as esparto and cañaberas. These materials carry the essence of my heritage. I am dedicated to preserving them for future generations. They bear the authenticity of my genesis.

“I am committed to a regenerative approach, preserving the earth's resources and promoting biodiversity. My garments are made from pineapple and nettle-certified organic yarns, fully plantbased, then hand-dyed with natural dyes sourced from bacteria and invasive plants. Water conservation is a key aspect of my work. I use materials and dyes that require minimal water usage compared to synthetic alternatives.

“I am not just creating a garment. I am creating a symbol of my connection to my ancestors, my community, and the earth. I try to inspire a deeper appreciation for the natural world and the importance of preserving our heritage for future generations.”

Learn more about Silvia Acién: ACIEN website

Talent Talks: Silvia Acién, New Order of Fashion Spanish Andalusian designer and winner of the 2023 Frameworks Knitter's Award, Murphy’s Magazine See her YouTube here

Images courtesy Murphy’s Magazine. See full collection here.

Drishti Modi and Rashmick Bose of Lafaani

“I co-founded the conscious apparel label Lafaani with my friend Rashmick Bose during the COVID lockdown,” Drishti Modi recalls. We were not products of the garment design world. Our backgrounds were in environmental resources management at the TERI School of Advanced Studies. Our education involved diverse research projects addressing environmental, economic, and societal challenges across India, from studying the sex-specific activity of Draco dussumieri in the Western Ghats to the economic implications of rainwater harvesting in Rajasthan.

“In our last year at TERI, Rashmick lived many months in a water-stressed village in northern India.

There he learned the importance of water conservation planning at the local level. I was working with Tetra Pak on recycling opportunities in India’s waste management sector. After graduation, Rashmick engaged in WASH projects, and I joined the Sustainable India Finance Facility, supporting Andhra Pradesh’s zero-budget natural farming program. My research into cotton cultivation sparked the idea of a sustainable fashion ecosystem. That in turn nudged me to study how fashion supply

Images courtesy of Julie Moorhouse, writing in Good Maker Tales
Drishti Modi and Rashmick Bose of Lafaani blend traditional Indian textiles with modern design to create biodegradable garments with zero-waste.

chains work and how they interact with immigrant artisans in Delhi. These experiences led to a certification in Business for Fashion from NIFT, New Delhi.

Small Worlds Make a Big Universe

“In addition to our commitment to ethical fabric sourcing, we ensure that all trims—things like buttons, threads, beads, and laces—are sourced locally within Delhi. This not only supports local businesses but also reduces the environmental costs of transportation. Integrating locally sourced trims maintains the authenticity and craftsmanship of our products as it also contributes to the local economy.

Old Wine in New Bottles

“The historical antecedents of not being wasteful and being aware of our limited resources suggests that sustainability is only a newer term for a much older way of living.” =Drishti Modi

“Our artisans are equal partners. We show them that we value them by asking their input in the creative process. Doing this empowers the artisans and also value-adds our products with unique cultural and artistic value. Every piece we create has a backstory of tradition, craftsmanship, and mutual respect.”

The Angel in the Details “ We include a repair kit with each garment. We hope this sends the message that extending the lifespan of clothing through repairs is better than throwing them into the bin. The idea is not only to reduce waste but to encourage a habit of longevity through mindful consumption.”

Learn more about Drishti Modi and Rashmick Bose:

The Main Threads of Lafaani, company website

Julie Moorhouse’s profile in Good Maker Tales

Lafaani: Handcrafted multifunctional staples, Pretty As You Please Greenwashing is rampant in fashion: Drishti: Fashion Design Council of India Lafaani: Crafting An Emerging Sustainable Force, currentMood

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