CRUISING THE KIMBERLEY

An AHOY Sailing Series

By Chris Rose

In this instalment of the Sailing No Regrets Circumnavigation Of Australia series, which was published in the April 2023 issue of AHOY Sailing News, Chris & Jo leave Ruby Falls at Red Cone Creek and head to the epic Horizontal Falls in The Kimberley.

On route, we come across a Humpback whale and its calf relaxing in one of the many bays along this truly spectacular coastline. Soon after our arrival, we head off in our tender for a preview before jumping on the charter tour to see the falls flowing at a mighty pace. Afterwards, we head off again in our tender up Cyclone Creek where we once again encounter huge currents and spectacular cliffs.

Described by Sir David Attenborough as “one of the world’s greatest natural wonders”, a visit to the Kimberley could not be considered complete without visiting the Horizontal Falls.

Having long been on my must-see bucket list items, sailing our own boat to this iconic location added a feeling of achievement to the satisfaction of achieving a goal.

About the Horizontal Falls.

Unlike a traditional waterfall, the Horizontal Falls are formed by the powerful tides as water rushes horizontally through two narrow gorges in Talbot Bay in the Buccaneer Archipelago, which of course, reverse with each tidal change. The twin gaps are part of the McLarty Ranges, which have two ridges running parallel approximately 300 metres apart. The first and most seaward gap is about 20 metres wide, and the second most spectacular gap is about 10 metres wide

This location has no road access; only boats and seaplanes can visit. Talbot Bay’s tidal range is typically around 8-9 metres, but during the summer king tides, it reaches a huge 13 metres. These massive tidal movements create a waterfall effect as water builds up on one side or the other of the gaps faster than it can flow through them, creating a waterfall of up to 4 metres high.

Timing Our Arrival

Wanting to time our arrival with the spring tides, we explored the nearby Red Cone Creek with the beautiful Ruby Falls and Little Ruby Falls (also known as Sapphire Falls) to wait for the best tides during our stay

With the larger tides approaching, we headed across Collier Bay between Kingfisher and Melomy Islands

Although we believed the charts showed 2 metres LAT across the gap, if you do follow our path, keep closer to Melomy Island, where we found much greater depth. Closer to Kingfisher Island is very shallow and rocky.

These waters are murky, so you cannot see the underwater obstructions, and hitting something causing severe damage could be a catastrophic end to your adventures.

During our visit, there was very little Navionics sonar chart data, but it has been considerably updated at the time of writing this article.

After crossing the Caesar Channel, we made our way with the incoming tide, weaving between the islands with strong currents up to the fall's anchorage.

Passing on the southern side of Slug Island, which did look like a giant slug stretched across the water, our charts had no depth information on the northern side.

Luckily, we did not encounter any pearl farms marked on the charts making our entry easier.

Anchoring just north of the Horizontal Falls and the floating hotel in around 10 metres of water, we watched the seaplanes land and take off alongside No Regrets.

When inspecting the gorges in your tender, you must be careful of the tour boats that race through the gorge at very high speeds. Crossing too near the gorge could have you directly in the path of a high-speed tour boat that has no time or room to manoeuvre, so keeping to the side is recommended

Continue reading in the April 2023 issue of AHOY Sailing here: www.issuu.com/downunderrally