Ahoy Sailing Australia-South Pacific- July 2023

Prize Draw.

Each month the Down Under Rally draws the name of one of our members as the winner of the member's prize draw. The winner chooses any item from the woman's or men's range of PredictWind Clothing plus a PredictWind Cap. predictwind.com/clothing-shop

SAILING TO AUSTRALIA

WHAT

VANUATU MORNING TEA INCLUDED COMPLIMENTS OF SCARBOROUGH MARINA!*

JOIN US AFTERWARDS FOR A SUNDOWNER COMPLIMENTS OF SCARBOROUGH MARINA!*

SOUTHERN QUEENSLAND CRUISING YACHT HAVEN

Located ON Brisbane's Moreton Bay, Scarborough Marina provides visiting yachts with easy access to the many anchorages and the islands of Moreton Bay, including Moreton Island and the Tangalooma Wrecks. The City of Brisbane and the Brisbane international airport are only 40mins away, with Public Transport right at our door. The suburb of Scarborough is home to families and retirees who form part of the safe & friendly community. With the convenience of waterfront Cafes, Clubs & Restaurants plus major shopping centres and medical services nearby and our popular weekend farmers & craft markets, Scarborough really is a home away from home!

Recognised by the international cruising community as the preferred destination when visiting the Brisbane Region.

Safe Enclosed Harbour

Protected from swell & unaffected by flooding.

Clean, Modern & Well Maintained Facilities

Modern Cruisers Lounge with TV and free WIFI

Electronic gated Access, with 24 Hour CCTV Monitoring

24 Hour Fuel Wharf

Full-Service Boatyard with 35 Tonne Travelift

On-Site Chandlery

Tangalooma Anchorage

Moreton Island

DISCOUNTS FOR DOWN UNDER RALLY MEMBERS

Warm Welcome To New Caledonia

By John Hembrow Down Under Rally

The 2023 Go East Yacht Rally participants enjoyed a warm welcome to New Caledonia, and our End Of Passage Party at Double Tree Hilton Ilot Maitre Resort, where we announced the winners of the Spirit Of The Rally & The Murphy Awards, and then the party started! The pictures and the video tell the story.

Warm Welcome To New Caledonia

By John Hembrow

Down Under Rally

Baie de Drueulu Lifou Loyalty Islands

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An Ordeal Or An Adventure?

“Why do I chase this lifestyle?”

This was the thought that kept repeating in my head during the 35 hours we spent on a parachute anchor 450Nm off the coast of Australia.

Thomas Du Toit, owner and master of s.v Vaquita

An Ordeal Or An Adventure?

Suspecting there was a serious issue, I called my crew member & friend Nicola (Nic) on deck and instructed her to start the engine on her way up.

Vaquita was put to wind, and Nic took the helm as I went forward to assess the situation further.

I soon discovered the anchor and roller were over the side of the vessel, violently impacting the starboard bow and causing significant damage as a result of a bowsprit failure.

I determined that the best course of action would be to deploy the parachute anchor off the bow to gain control of the vessel. Four hours later, with the help of a spare halyard and some heavy-duty ratchet straps, Nic and I finished retrieving the bow roller and anchor just in time for the sun to rise.

s.v Vaquita departing Southport for New Caledonia May 2023

An Ordeal Or An Adventure?

We resumed our standard 3-hour watch system with Nic going below to get rest while I took the first watch. At the end of my watch, I retired to my aft cabin where I heard unusual noises coming from the vicinity of the steering arrangement. I removed the access panel in the cabin to expose the steering system and could see no obvious issue, however the clunking noises continued.

Returning on deck I requested Nic to turn the rudder from full port to full starboard to observe rudder movement from the swim step. After seeing limited movement, I retrieved my emergency tiller and installed it directly to the rudder shaft, removing the rudder arm to test the steering independent of the steering system. It was at this point that I discovered the rudder was moving independently of the emergency tiller. This was later to be determined as coupling damage between the shaft and rudder.

I now suspect that the impact of the swell on the rudder during the uncomfortable period post the deployment of the parachute anchor caused the damage to the steering system.

departing The Gold Coast

An Ordeal Or An Adventure?

Knowing that the loss of the parachute was inevitable, there was an urgent need to determine a method of gaining back control of the rudder. After hours of brainstorming that included several emails, messages and broken satellite voice comms with John, Peter and some of my fellow rally participants who were also aware of our situation and providing much-appreciated suggestions and support and a number of failed attempts to devise a method of steering Vaquita I determined that by removing the anodes from the top outer corner of the rudder blade I could attach lines to the rudder blade and run them port and starboard to cockpit winches.

Vaquita, with her parachute anchor deployed, having suffered a bowsprit failure that resulted in her anchor dangerously impacting the topsides of the hull, which was soon followed by a loss of steering.

An Ordeal Or An Adventure?

Whilst we were now able to steer the vessel in unrestricted waters, I did not feel confident in the safety of transiting the reef pass into Noumea. By now, JRCC had handed us off the MRCC Noumea as we had entered their area of responsibility.

35 hours spent on a parachute anchor HERE

With Johns's assistance and at my request, MRCC Noumea arranged for a safety vessel to meet Vaquita on the seaward side of Dumbea Pass, where we planned to enter the lagoon and tow us through the pass and into Port Moselle Marina. We had almost made it!

As we approached Port Moselle, we were warmly welcomed by an entourage of Down Under Rally tenders, an incredible feeling after a challenging few days, which I am yet to decide as to whether they were part of an ordeal or an adventure...

Vaquita's PredictWind Tracking Page shows her voyage route from Southport to Noumea

Tom shows the method he used to steer Vaquita

Vaquita's Missing bowsprit & hull damage

An Ordeal Or An Adventure?

After a few weeks out of water repairing damage, Vaquita is now back exploring the beautiful islands of New Caledonia...

Reminding me why I chose this lifestyle.

As a result of Vaquita's ordeal, or was it an adventure? ... anyway ordeal or adventure aside, the events that took place during their passage to New Caledonia left no doubt in our mind that Tom & Nicola should receive the not so coveted Murphy Award for the 2023 Go East Rally.

AfootnotefromJohnHembrow-DownUnderRally

Manyyearsago,whenwewerepreparingourfirstsailingvesselMigallooandourselvestoventure beyondthehorizonforthefirsttime,Iwasequallyexcitedandterrifiedbytheprospectofsailing acrossoceans.BobBitchinBiker,Sailor&Author,servedasoneofmyinspirationsduringthistime, andthefollowingsaying,whichIbelievehecameupwith,resonatedwithme:

"Attitudeisthedifferencebetweenanordealandanadventure."

Twentyyearsand60,000nauticalmileslater,Iamlessexcitedbytheprospectofoceanpassagesand nolongerterrified;however,Iconfesstobeingapprehensiveeverytimewedepartandrelievedevery timewearrive.IshareBob`sadviceaboutattitudeateachGoEastRallydeparturebriefingbecause,in thewordsofKurtRussell'scharacterCaptainRoninthemovieofthesamename...

Tom & Nic accepting the Murphy Award durin the End Of Paassage Celebrations at Ilot Maitr

HOW LONG SINCE YOUR PFD WAS SERVICED?

BeforewedepartedforNewCaledoniawiththe GoEastRally,wedroppedoffourCrewsaverPFDs forservicingbySouthernSeasMarine,who,afterperforminganinitialinspection,advisedusthat inadditiontotheusualreplacementoftheCo2canister,newautoinflators&lightswereneeded.

Fortunately,wehadarrangedfortheservicetobedonewellinadvanceofourdeparturedate as thenewautoinflatersneedtobeordered.Oncethenewcomponentswerefitted,thejacketswere manuallyinflatedandleftfor24hourstomakesuretherewerenoleaksbeforebeingrepackedand readyforuse.

Withsomethingasimportantasthis,weleaveittotheprofessionalstocarryouttheservice.

FULLYSUBSCRIBED REGISTRATIONS CLOSED

THE NC2V RALLY IS A 14-DAY SAIL IN COMPANY YACHT RALLY FROM NOUMEA, NEW CALEDONIA, TO PORT VILLA VANUATU.

In August, the NC2V rally fleet of 20 yachts will visit Tanna, Erromango & Port Villa.

During the rally, participants have the opportunity to attend various events, including Welcome Ceremonies, Feasts, Kustom Magic, Cultural performances, School & Village Tours, Mt Yasur Volcano tour, ancestral burial cave tours & more.

HERES A TASTE OF WHAT AWAITS...

On behalf of the Down Under Rally & our Down Under Rally Members, we are proud to support Tooth Buddies Vanuatu.

ToothBuddiesmanufacturecoconutoil-basedtoothpasteinPortVilaandhavecreatedaschool brushingprograminvolving4,000childrenat72locationsinassociationwiththeVanuatuMinistry ofHealthandlocalgroupPCVHealth.(PresbyterianChurchofVanuatuhealthprogram).TheTooth Buddieprogramisallaboutestablishinglife-changingoralhygienehabitsinKindyandGrade1 childrenandthenusingthisknowledgeandexperienceasagatewayintofamiliesandthebroader community.

Ifyouwouldliketosupportthisveryworthwhileproject,visit: toothbuddies.com.auformoreinfo.

Experience

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DOWN UNDER RALLY MEMBERS

SAVE 20% WHEN YOU PURCHASE THE ROCKET CRUISING GUIDES! LEARN MORE ABOUT THE ROCKET GUIDES HERE: DOWNUNDERRALLY.COM/ROCKET-CRUISING-GUIDES

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w a i t t o s e e w a i t t o s e e w a i t t o s e e y o u b a c k i n y o u b a c k i n y o u b a c k i n

P o r t V i l a P o r t V i l a P o r t V i l a

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SAILMAKING EVOLVED

EvolutionSailsAustralia hasbeenthelocalsail loftofchoicesupportinglocalsailorsandcruisers visitingtheGoldCoastformorethan30years.

LocatedcentrallyontheGoldCoastin Queensland,EvolutionSailsprovidea full design,manufactureandserviceloft forthe EastCoastofQueensland. Ourexperienced sailmakersspecialiseincruisingandracingsails foryachts,catamarans,sportsboatsand dinghies.

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Complimentingourfullrangeofservices are Boombagstack-packs,boom covers,trampolines,ropeand chandlery.

ASK US ABOUT DOWN UNDER RALLY MEMBER DISCOUNTS

AUSTRALIAN YACHTS RETURNING TO AUSTRALIA

YACHTS VISITING AUSTRALIA

AControlPermitwillbeissuedtotheMasterofthecraftiftheAustralianBorderForceissatisfiedthecraftistransiting Australiafornon-commercialpurposes.ControlPermitsmaybeissuedforaperiodof12monthsorthelengthofthe Master'svisa,whicheverisless Anextensionofthepermitmaybegrantedonapplication,providedthatyoumeet eligibilityrequirementsandhaveanappropriatevisa.ApersoneligibletoapplyforaControlPermitmustbeatourist oratemporaryresidentofAustralia.AustraliancitizensarenoteligibleforaControlPermitunlesstheyhaveoverseas residency.

ForaControlPermittobeissued,thecraftmustmeetthefollowingcriteria:

craftmusthavearrivedfromoverseasandwillbescheduledtodepartforoverseas

craftmusthavearrivedunderitsownpowerandnotascargo

craftmustbetransitingAustraliafornon-commercialpurposesi e isnotengagedinthecommercialcarriageof cargoorpassengers

craftmaybeprivatelyorcorporatelyowned(however,aControlPermitisnotgrantedwhereacraftisownedbya corporationandmorethan50%oftheownersofthecorporationareAustralianresidents)

craftmustnotbeemployedforanyactivitiesofacommercialnature(e.g.charter,hireorlease)

craft,orpartsofthecraft,arenottobeofferedforsale,soldorotherwisedisposedof

TheDownUnderRallyhasalong-standing relationshipwithDAZMAC,whichisalicenced customsbroker.TheDownUnderRally recommendscontactingDAZMACtogetaquote fromthemtoactasyouragentshouldyoube requiredtoexportorimportavessel

Youcanmakeanobligation-freeenquirywith DazmacviathefollowingpageoftheDownUnder Rallywebsite:www.downunderrally.com/agents.

DAZMACOFFERSDOWNUNDERRALLY MEMBERSSIGNIFICANTDISCOUNTS.

Sailing To Australia?

Our two comprehensive guides (11 pages each guide) provide you with everything you need to know about sailing to and arriving in Australia in easy-to-understand plain English

Theguidesareincludedinthe2023GoWestRallyentryfee.

LearnmoreaboutthebenefitsofjoiningtheGoWestRally at:

com/westrally-fee-benefits

Whitsunday Island, Queensland, Australia

Down Under Rally Members Offer: $50.00 OFF MAST & RIGGING SURVEY REPORTS

Pan Pan Pan Pan Pan Pan

Not Part Of The Not Part Of The Not Part Of The Plan Plan. Plan Plan. Plan Plan.

Of all the things you plan for when preparing for an ocean passage, responding to a midocean Pan Pan and subsequently taking a stricken vessel under tow is not probably one of them, but maybe it should be...

Pan Pan - Not Part Of The Plan Plan. Pan Pan - Not Part Of The Plan Plan. Pan Pan - Not Part Of The Plan Plan.

The morning of the 18th of May saw the 2023 Go East Rally fleet depart the Southport Seaway for the much anticipated 800nm voyage to New Caledonia.

With favourable winds of between 15-20 knots from the SW, as the Gold Coast skyline disappeared from view and the swell began to rise, the sun dipped on the western horizon, and the business of ocean sailing began.

For Andree (the first mate), John (the captain) & James (crew member) of the vessel Lai Lai Lady the adventure was living up to their expectations. Having spent their first night at sea under full sail and averaging just over 9.0kts SOG, all was going to plan; however, soon after daybreak, a Pan Pan call by the trimaran Iria would mark the beginning of an adventure of a different kind.

What follows is a summary provided by Andree from Lai Lai Lady of just what that new adventure entailed.

s.v Lai Lai Lady departing

s.v Iria departing

Pan Pan - Not Part Of The Plan Plan. Pan Pan - Not Part Of The Plan Plan. Pan Pan - Not Part Of The Plan Plan.

meanswearenotgoingtoNewCaledonia.Itwasabitsurreal.

FredandJohnsetaboutdevisingthebridle/towropesetuponbothboats,withhelpfromour crewmemberJamesMurphy.

Ineedtopointoutthatatthistime,I(Andree)wasterriblyseasickandonlyabletoassistinthe mostminorwaybytakingcareofcommunicationswithAMSAusingourIridiumGotosendand receiveemailsandmessages.

JohnandJamescameupwiththeplanandsettingupofthetowropesonLaiLaiLady,whileFred aloneorganisedthebridleandtowropesaboardIria.JohnandJamesworkedtogetheronourboat andprovedtobeanexcellentteam.

Pan Pan - Not Part Of The Plan Plan. Pan Pan - Not Part Of The Plan Plan. Pan Pan - Not Part Of The Plan Plan.

Fred'spartnerCollettewasaboardIriawithFred.However,itwasnotuntillateondaytwothatwe sightedher.Unfortunately,Collettewassufferingfromchronicseasicknessandwasunabletoassist Fredinanyway.Wekeptintouchonaprettyregularbasiskeepingourspiritsupandcheckingon eachother.

Pan Pan - Not Part Of The Plan Plan. Pan Pan - Not Part Of The Plan Plan. Pan Pan - Not Part Of The Plan Plan.

Fortunately,hewas successfulinuntanglingthe ropefromaroundthesail drive.

Ourfirst-handexperienceof aManOverboardwasable tobetested.Johnhasso exhaustedthathewas unabletolifthimselfback onboardhoweverthesea wasreallycalm,soIput downourtransomand ladder,andwewereableto helphimbackonboard.

It’sagoodlessonabout whatweneedtonowputin placeforamanoverboard. Nomatterhowmanytimes youmightpractice,thereal thingisadifferentstory.

Pan Pan - Not Part Of The Plan Plan. Pan Pan - Not Part Of The Plan Plan. Pan Pan - Not Part Of The Plan Plan.

Welldone LaiLaiLady.Sheperformedbrilliantly.

Personally,I(Andree)wanttosaythatbothJohnandFredweresolevel-headedand calmthroughoutthewholeexperienceandhandledthesituationremarkablywell.

Asaresultoftheirselflessnessandbywayofacknowledgementoftheirincredibleeffortsinassisting thevessel Iria the2023GoEastRallySpirtoftheRallyAwardwasawardedtoJohn&Andreeof Lai LaiLady

Therewasjustoneproblem...Theawardwastobepresentedattheend-of-passagepartyatthe DoubleTreeHiltonIlotMaitreResortinNewCaledonia,andJohn&AndreewereinSouthport,sothe DownUnderRallycontactedJohn&Andreewithanoffertopayforthecostofthereturnflightsto NewCaledonia&onenight'saccommodationattheresortsotheycouldattendthepartyandreceive theaward.John&Andreeacceptedtheoffer,andmuchtothesurpriseofeveryoneattheevent,they werepresenttoreceivetheaward!

Fantastic Value For Money

OVER600PEOPLEHAVEBECOMEDOWNUNDERRALLY MEMBERS.

Atonly$125.00forthefirstyearand$99.00peryeartorenew, DownUnderRallyMembershipisagreatwaytosave$$$.

Ourmembershaveaccesstodiscountsandoffersfromover40 PartnerBusinesses!

Inaddition,becomingamemberprovidesaccesstoourOffshore CruisingPreparationCourseforaslongasyouareamember.The informationweshareinthiscoursewillhelpyougainthe confidencetoventurefurtherafieldwhenthetimeisrightforyou.

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"THE RESORT FOR YOU & YOUR BOAT"!

Servicing commercial & charter operators along with local Gold Coast BOATIES. We are centrally located between Brisbane City and Coolangatta Airport with only a 20 minute drive to the famous green and gold of the gold Coast i.e. rainforests and pristine beaches.

Fitzroy Reef lies 22nm northwest of Lady Musgrave Island. Like Lady Musgrave Island, the island has a navigable lagoon with a northerly entrance. From there it is only a short passage of 15nm to Heron Island.

The lagoon is much smaller and less visited by cruisers, the deepwater area being 0.6nm long and 0.3nm wide. The large reef surrounds the small lagoon, with up to 1nm on the southeastern side, giving good protection. It is tight to get in but worth the effort.

Water visibility is good away from the lagoon entrance and the snorkelling is excellent with a huge variety of healthy coral and small fish.

See more in Cruising the Queensland Coast.

Entering

Photo: G Luck

Fitzroy Reef Lagoon

Fitzroy Reef Lagoon

© The State of Queensland (Globe Queensland) Creative Commons 4

EastCoastMarina,ManlyBoatHarbour,Brisbane, Australiaoffer330securewaterberths, cateringforboatsupto18m.

AvarietyofpublictransportoptionsthatwilltakeyoudirectlytoBrisbaneCityandtheBrisbane InternationalAirportarewithinwalkingdistanceofthemarina

TheManlyVillageisonlyashortwalkaway,offeringagrocerystore,postoffice,newsagency, chemist,coffeeshops,restaurantsandmore. MarketsareonsomeSaturdaysandeverySunday.

Phone: +61 7 3393 3811

Located less than 10nm to the south of the Brisbane river mouth Manly Boat Harbour is the perfect base for visiting yachts and East Coast Marina has long been a favourite of the international yachting community. DOWN UNDER RALLY MEMBERS OFFER. *15% off casual marina berth rates

Cruising New Zealand's Fiordland

In part one of this article (see June 2023 AHOY), Rob Latimer shared the story of his voyage from Australia to New Zealand`s south island and the arrival of Chimere in Fiordland, where he wrote:

"For now, it was time to tidy up, prepare dinner, enjoy a good glass of red and collapse into bed. There would be plenty of time over the next 10 days to soak in the Fiordland “vibe”.

ExploringOurFirstSound

Asexpected,itwasalazystartall-roundthenextmorning,anditwasn’tuntilatleast10:00am thatwemotoredawayuptheSoundinthedirectionofthebighills,whichbynow,werealready bathedinsunshine.

“Wherearewegoing?” inquiredLindaaswemotoredalong. Theonlybreezewasthe6knotswe createdourselvesfromtheforwardmotion. Bynow,itwasaround11:00o’clock,withbreakfast ofeggs,bacon,toast,cereal,milk,fruitjuice,plustheubiquitousteaandcoffeekindoflingering on,mergingintoluncharound1:00pm.

“CascadeBasin,upLongSound,looksinteresting,maybewecanstoptherethenight” Ireplied to,nooneinparticular.

“Notveryimaginativewiththenaming”, commentedMatt, “LongSound? Couldthatbebecause it’s…long?!” hemocked.

“WhataboutCascadeBasin? Whatdoyouthinkwemightfindthere?” Iadded.

“Hardtosay”,Mattreplied.

Meanwhile, comedy aside, the stillness of the sunny day, combined with the majesty of the surrounding mountains, was something that had us just gobsmacked. A feeling that just intensified the further north we travelled, culminating in the amazing Milford Sound, but that would have to wait.

Fornow,though,wejustsoakedupthethrillofourfirstSound. Thefurtherwetravelled,the steeperandclosertheforest-coveredsidesbecame. Prettysoon,thewarmthofthesunhadus peelinglayers,andeventuallyspeculatingastowhetherwe’dgoforaswiminthepromised waterfallinthe“CascadeBasin”.

Asthetimetickedby,wecametounderstandhow“LongSound”mighthavegotitsname,withour trekfromthenight’sanchoragetothisbeingaround20miles.That’s20milesofjaw-dropping, beautifulscenery,bathedinwarmsunshineunderabluesky,admittedlywithabsolutelynowind.

Truetolabel,therewasindeeda30-metre-highwaterfallattheendofLongSound,which,to quotetheunromanticCruisingGuide,madea…“terribledin”. Itwasalsonearsomething resemblinga“Basin”,fromwherewecouldclearlyseethesprayandmistfromthetorrentahead asitroseabovethetrees.

Cruising New Zealand - Fiordland

Soonenough,wehadthebigdinghylaunchedofftheforedeckandafterashortputterashore,were scramblingupthemoss-covered,slipperyboulders,veryneartothethunderousdeluge;created fromtheoverflowofhigh-upLakeWidgeon,beneaththe1200metrehighnearby“hills”.

Asforthewater…thevolumecomingdownthecataractmaybe50metresinfrontofus,created suchaswift-flowingriver,thatitactuallyspoketous…andthewordswere…“BECAREFUL”.

Determinedtogetourselvesproperlywet,withoutbeingsweptdownoverthenearbyrapids,we easedourselvesgentlyintotheshallows,thenuptoournecks,stayingclosetotheboulder-strewn edge. Thewaterwasdefinitely“bracing”,butthewarmthofthesun,stillhighinthesky,helpedto lessentheimpact,makingforaverypleasantexperience. Ifnothingelse,beingimmersedinwater wasanidealwaytowardoffthesandflies. Butstill,withyourheadexposed,inordertobreath,the cloudsofpeskybugswouldstillmanagetofindyou.

Johnmadegooduseofhiswaterfall-visit,pullingoutacakeofsoapandlatheringupastormbefore dunkingunder. James,ontheotherhand,stillrecoveringfromalingeringcold,tookuppositionon alargeboulderaboveproceedings,dressedinfullwetweathergearagainstthebitinginsects,where heworkedinhissketchpadandnotebooktorecordthescene.

Contemplatingthetannin-brownwaterwhileattemptingtoswimagainstthecurrent,ImadetheoffhandcommenttoJohn,“Arethereanyriver-monstersweshouldbeawareofinNewZealand streams?” Inresponse,Johnstayedprettyquiet,butLindaforone,didn’tlike“thatidea”inher headassheenteredtherockpool.

Whetheritwasimaginedornot,allofusagreedaswemadeourwaybacktoChimere,thatwe’dfelt somethingrubagainstourlegsinthefast-flowingstream,whichwasratherdisconcerting.

Bynowitwasaroundfourintheafternoonandaftermakingsurethenettingwassecurelycovering allhatchesaboardagainsttheincreasingnumbersofsandflies,wewerefacedwithadilemma. Whetherweshouldhavealatelunchandalatedinner…or,alternatively,asnackinsteadoflunch, followedbyanearlydinner. Intheendwesettledforthelatter,aswecontinuedtowarmourselves againsttheresidualchillleftfromourearlieractivitiesattheCascade.

Shortlyafter,whileIwashavingasnoozeinthesaloon,thesoundoftheanchoralarmcouldbe heard.Orwasitafireinthegalley–bothalarmssoundverysimilar–no,itwasdefinitelythe anchor.TheproblembeingthatalightafternoonbreezefromdowntheSound,hadspunusaround. So,whilsttheanchorremainedin10metresofwater,Chimerewasnowinabout2-3metresof water;facingoutoftheSound,insteadofin.

Cruising New Zealand - Fiordland

Noproblem.Juststartthemotor,retrievetheanchorand“park”somewhereelse.Exceptinthis case,thereWASaproblem.Asaprecautionagainsttheanchorpossiblygettingsnaggedon submergedlogs,Ihadattachedafloattoalongline,whichinturnwasattachedtothefrontofthe anchor.And,youguesseditbeforewe’drealisedit,theropehadgoneundertheboatandcaught onthepropeller.

ToquotefromtheKiwibookofunderstatements,“thiswasquiteawkward”,anddefinitelyinthe categoryof“…thingsthathappenonthevoyage,stayonthevoyage”.But,intheinterestsoffull disclosureandhonesty,I’msayingitnow…“Igotalinestuckaroundthepropeller,”...asKiwi-John wouldsay,“stuck-asbro!”

Theoffendinglinewasthatcheap,white,polySilver,supposedlyfloatingstuff. Butlookingonthe brightside,itcouldhavebeenworse. Forastart,theenginewasthrownintoneutralassoonas theproblemwasdetected,weweren’tinanydanger,anditwasn’tafishingline–thatstuffmelts solid! Butitwasstillsomethingthatneededtobefixedsoonerratherthanlater.

Thelightwasfading,andsoarmedwithonlyasnorkelandmask,Johnwassooninthedinghy, reachingdownoverthesidewithaboathook,headandshoulderssubmerged,doingwhathe couldinthelowvisibilitytoclearthetangle;whichhadalsoloopedaroundtherudder. After10 minutesofthis,itseemedclearweneededtodivedownproperlyandengageinhand-to-hand combattountangletherope.

Sothat’showIgotmysecondswim fortheday.Although,itlackedthe “recreationalelement”ofthefirst,asI struggledrepeatablytofillmylungs withenoughairtodivedownasfaras thepropeller.Thewaterwasaschilly andbrownasbefore,andafterfifteen minutesandmaybefiveorsixbrief duckdives,Istartedtothinkthetask mighthavebeenbeyondme. Butwith lightabouttostopplay,thelast handfuloffrayedendswerepassed aloftasIgasped,“gotit!”.Maybe somedivinggearmighthavebeena goodideaafterall?!.

Oncebackonboard,itwasacaseof warmingupindryclothesbeforereanchoringabitfurtheroutinthe Basin.Thelastoftheday’ssunshine stillshone,andasthechain descendedoncemore,weallagreed thesandflieswouldhavegreater difficultyreachingushere. Dinner wasanotherwonderfulfishensemble, witheveryoneretreatingtobedearly.

Cruising New Zealand - Fiordland

CaptainCookWasHere...

ItwasanextremelystillnightatanchorinCascadeBasin. Noanchoralarms,andsostill,youcould haveplayedsnookeronthesaloontable.By9:00am,wewereawayasplanned,retracingour “breadcrumbs”fromthedaybeforedownLongSoundandbrieflyintotheTasmanSeabefore veeringtostarboarduptheeasternarmofChalkyInlet.

Onourway,wedecidedtopayavisittoUselessBay,whereweintendedtotieuptothetrees. Not somethingyounormallydo,butinthiscase,thewaterwasdeepenoughclose-to,andtherewasa longhosebringingwaterdownfromastreamabovetofillyourtanks. NotquitesurehowUseless Baygotitsname,butitcan’thavehadanythingtodowiththe[veryuseful]convenientwater supply.ToquotetheCruisingGuide,“Thereisawaterpipeinthetrees,belowasteeptree-covered cliff”,butonapproach,itwasclearthatalargemotorboathadarrivedfirst.

Driftinginclose,theskipperoftheotherboat(John)explainedthattheywereachartervesselout ofDunedin,withpassengersflyinginandoutbyhelicopteratdesignatedspots,includingCascade BasinandChalkyInlet.

“Howlongdoyouthinkyou’llbe?” Iinquired. “About30minutes”,camethereply,“…the flowisprettyslow”.

Thiswasthefirstvesselwe’dseenforafew days,andaswediscussedpleasantries,John asked, “Whereareyouheaded?Because there’sanotherwateringpointifyouaregoing toChalkySound,andit’sgotastrongerflow”.

AquickdeferraltotheCruisingGuiderevealed itwasonourpath. Thentheskipperofthebig motorboatcalledout, “Doyouwantsome crayfish?”

“Thatwouldbegreat,THANKS!” Icalledback, alreadyhalfwayintoourdinghy.

Afterwards,LindathoughtIwassokeen,I lookedlikeIwasabouttoswimacrosstotheir boat.Soitwasthatwe“caught”sixlarge crayfish!!

Asthecharterskipperexplained,hisguests likeddivingforcrays,butoncethey’dfilledthe freezerwiththeallowablequota,theycouldn’t catchanymoreuntilthelastlotwaseaten.So, youcouldsayweweredoingapublicservice bytakingthecraysoffhishands?!

Thesewerejustsomeofthesixteenwewere ultimatelygivenoverthecourseofthetendays wewereintheregionbygenerousboatingfolk.

Cruising New Zealand - Fiordland

On our way again, soon crossing Chalky Sound and up Edwardson Sound to Lake Cove, taking time out to squeeze in through Ship Entrance to fill the tanks in a small enclosed pocket of water called North Port. As promised, the hose certainly had a strong flow, but our biggest task was bringing Chimere in close enough for the pipe to reach. Pretty soon, we were secured, with the waterpipe directed into our tanks, as clouds of hungry sand flies did all they could to spoil the day.

Reading Cook’s journals once more, it’s remarkable that on 25 Match 1773, after sailing 117 days without sight of land, covering thousands of miles across the Southern Ocean, as far south as 60 degrees, Cook made landfall at this very spot, a region he had charted three years earlier. The only problem was that he mistook it for Dusky Sound, just a few miles further north, as Cook writes:

“

… we were at an entrance to a bay, which I had mistaken for Dusky Bay, being deceived by some islands that lay in the mouth of it. Fearing to run, in thick weather, into a place to which we were all strangers, and seeing some breakers and broken ground ahead, I tacked in twenty-five fathoms of water and stood out to sea.… this bay may be known by a white cliff on one side of the isles which lie at the entrance to the bay.

This part of the coast I did not see but at a great distance in my former voyage, and we now saw it under so many disadvantageous circumstances that the less I say about it, the fewer mistakes I shall make. We stood out to sea [again] Here we had a great swell rolling in from the SW having a very high and irregular sea. At five o’clock next morning, the gale abated, and we bore up for land and entered Dusky Bay about noon ”

Seeing the white cliffs of the nearby coast, it was clear how Captain Cook came to name it Chalky Sound

-extract from the journal of Captain James Cook...

Cruising New Zealand - Fiordland

ReadingCook’sjournalwhilesailinginthesamewatersheexploredandchartednearly250years agobringsanevengreaterlevelofrespectandadmirationforthemanandhiscrew,asIwrotein mydiaryonthe6thofMarch2020...

“Today, we sailed past those barren white cliffs, that gave the inlet its name – Chalky. Two days ago, we experienced the … “very high and irregular sea” described and endured by Cook and his men

And in a couple of days, we plan to enter Dusky Sound, anchor in Pickersgill Harbour, stand on Astronomers Point and sail around the coast of Resolution Island.

The more you consider the achievements and abilities of Cook, along with the farreaching implications of his discoveries – for each one of us, even today in 2020 – the more you can accept and understand the descriptions of the man as recorded in his many biographies. In particular that by Christopher Lloyd when he writes, “Cook’s character was summed up in the names of his ships Resolution, Endeavour, Adventure and Discovery”.

OurnightatLakeCoveturnedouttobeascalmaspromised,beinganidealspottoshelterfrom anotherapproaching40-knotgale–thistimefromtheNorthEast.TheCruisingGuidedescribes thislittlebolt-holeas...

“…anall-weatheranchorage,whichisnotonlyverysafe,spaciousandshelteredbutbeautifulas well.InthesoutherncorneraretheCoraLynnFallswhicharefedbyLakeCadman.Aroughtrack leadsuptothelake–about20-minutereturn.”

Assomethingofanunusualevent,weremainedfortwonightsinLakeCove,takingtimetorelax andsoakitallin.

-extract from the log of Chimere...

Cruising New Zealand - Fiordland

DuskyDreaming...

Our stopover in Lake Cove not only provided a haven from the latest storm but also enabled us to exploreashore,wellprotectedaswewereagainsttheincessantsandflies.

Whilst sheltered, this was a deeper anchorage than we’d normally choose. With no shallow water close to shore, or at least none we could find. In the end, we dropped the pick in 20 metres and simply let out a lot of chain … she held beautifully. However, the lingering prospect of getting snaggedonsunkenlogswasneverfarfrommymind.

The weather eventually cleared, so we grabbed the opportunity to venture 40 miles up the coast to thefamousDuskySound. I say “famous” because it is here that Cook spent some time, in early 1773, resupplying, charting, resting and naturally being eaten by sandflies in the very spot we intended to dropanchor,PickersgillHarbour.

“In the PM hauled the Sloop into a small creek and moored her head and stern to the trees and so near the Shore as to reach it with the brow or stage which nature had in a manner prepared for us by a large tree which grew in a horizontal direction over the Water so long that the top of it reached our gunwale.

Wood for fuel was here and so convenient that our Yards were locked in the branches of the trees. About 100 yards from our stern was a fine stream of fresh water, and every place abounded with excellent fish, and the shores and Woods we found not destitute of wildfowl so that we expected to enjoy with ease what in our situation might be called the luxuries of life ”

It was a misty, still exit from Lake Cove, down Edwardson Sound towards the sea, with the low cloud seemingly closing in behind us as we made our way along. The world had taken on a surreal quality, like we were passing through a Hollywood creation.

-extract from the journal of Captain James Cook about Pickersgill Harbour...

Cruising New Zealand - Fiordland

Beyondthelastheadland,theriseandfall oftheoceanswellreturned,alongwiththe rain,whichprettymuchpouredforthe restoftheday.

Weneverfeltcold,butwedidbeginto appreciatefirsthandwhythe“WestCoast” wasoftenreferredtoasthe“WetCoast”.

Attimes,theraincompletelyobscuredthe landjustacoupleofmilesoffour starboardside,withthealbatrossfindingit hardtoremainairborneinthelightairs.

Beforelong,wemadetheturnintoDuskySound,andaround2:00pm,weenteredPickersgill Harbourinsearchofasuitablespottodroptheanchor.TheCruisingGuidedescribes Pickersgill Harbouras...

“Anall-weatheranchorageexceptinnortheastandeastconditions.Itisaccessiblefromeither sideofCrayfishIsland.CooknavigatedResolutionthroughthepassageonthewesternsideof CrayfishIsland,butitisnarrow,shallowishandquiteexciting.”

Cool!So,naturally,weenteredthesmallharbourfromthewesternside,andsureenough,itwas narrow.Exactly34metreswide,accordingtothechartandlittlemorethanthreetimesthewidthof Cook’sship,theResolution. Althoughthesparsapparentlytouchedthebranchesassheentered. Bycontrast,Chimereisonly5metreswide,sotheideaofbringingalarge,3-masted,tallshipin throughthatopeningisratherincredible.

Afterfindingwaterofaround7-10metresdepth,wedroppedanchor,thenproceededtoruna sternlinetoshore,whichweinitiallysecuredaroundamedium-sizedtree.Itwasthentimefor

Cruising New Zealand - Fiordland

Thenamesonthechart…AnchorIsland,LuncheonCove,StopIsland,IndianIsland,SealIslands, andsoon…allreferredtoanincident,orevents,fromCook’stimehere,withthestoriesand journalentriesmakingforfascinatingreading.

Itwasstillraining,andgreytothewaterline,whenayachtcalledSagoenteredthebayinthelate afternoon;oneofthefirstyachtswehadreallyseeninthesepartssofar.Theycameoverclose beforeanchoringandwehadagoodchat.Asitturnedout,overthepastthreeyearstheyhad sailedfromGermany,havingpurchasedtheyachtintheNetherlands.TheguywasaKiwiandthe girlwasfromHeidelberg(Germany)andtheirtwosmallchildren,whowavedfromthecockpit,were from…somewhere.

Asdinnerpreparationsgotunderway,Itooktheopportunitytohaveanafternoonnap,wakingan hourorsolatertofindthatanotheryachthadsnuckintothebay–acatamarancalled“FelixThe Cat”.We’dseenthisyachtinthedistancewhenweweredownatStewartIslandaweekagoand onceJohnandIcompletedour“stern-line-to-tree-re-arrangement-procedure”,wewentoverto haveachattothefatherandsonsailingcombination.

Asitturnsout,thesondoesabitofdivingandittookhimjustafewminutesonarrivaltoswimover totherocksattheaptlynamedCrayfishIslandthatenclosesthissmallbay,topickupagood-sized crayfishinjust4metresofwater.Simples!!

Therainstoppedaroundsunset,andwiththeliftingofsomecloudsandthebriefappearanceof bluesky,weweretreatedtogloriousscenesoflightandmultipleshadesofgrey. Laterinthenight, though,rainandwindreturned,cominginoverCrayfishIsland,alongwithboutsoflightningand thunder.Despitethesoundandlightshow,plusadegreeofswingingontheanchor,wefeltsecure, tiedaswewerefrontandback.

Cruising New Zealand - Fiordland

In reviewing the latest SatPhone weather forecast, it looked like things were going to remain brisk for the next day or so, giving us a chance to explore more of sheltered Dusky Sound and nearby Breaksea Sound. Once more, Cook’s Journal spoke through the ages …

“The almost continual rains may be reckoned another evil attending this bay, though, perhaps, this may only happen at this season of the year; nevertheless, the situation of the country, the vast height, and nearness of the mountains seem to subject it to much rain at all times.”

“The most mischievous animals here are the small, black sandflies, which are numerous, and so troublesome, that they exceed everything of the kind I have ever met with; wherever they bite they cause a swelling, and such an intolerable itching, that it is not possible to refrain from scratching, which at last brings on ulcers like the smallpox.”

Comemorning,wewerereadytodosomeexploringashoreandsoaround9:30am,duringabrief breakintherain,wetookthedinghyinpastAstronomerPointasterntosoakupmoreofthe PickersgillHarbour“vibe”.

Therewasabrassplaqueontherocksjustabovethehigh-watermark,plusaboardwalkencircling theverysmallpromontory.Itwasashortclimbtothemetal“TrigPoint”atthetopofthehill

-extract from the journal of Captain James Cook about Dusty Sound...

Cruising New Zealand - Fiordland

It didn’t take much to imagine the industry and hive of activity that would have consumed this small piece of land all those years ago, as described by Captain Cook in 1773:

And what must go down as New Zealand’s very first “micro-brewery” … Cook goes on to write:

“Thus situated, we began to clear places in the woods in order to set up the astronomer’s observatory, the forge to repair our ironwork, tents for the sail-makers, and coopers to repair the sails and casks in; to land our empty casks, to fill water, and to cut down wood for fuel; all of which were absolutely necessary occupations”.

“We also began to brew beer from the branches or leaves of a tree, which much resembles the American black spruce. … mixed with inspissated juice of wort and molasses, it would make a very wholesome beer, and supply the want of vegetables, which this place did not afford; and the event proved that I was not mistaken.”

Fortunately,wewereabletobring ourownbeer,butthereisnodoubt, justasinCook’stime,thisplaceisa rainmagnet,andsoweshouldnot havebeensurprisedthatafterafew daysofwarmsunshineandblue skies,thecloudsrolledinand decidedtostay;droppingacontinual blanketofrainforatleastafullday.

Theresultoftherainwas,ofcourse, swollenstreams,burstinghighaltitudelakesandfallingwater.All overtheplace…downsteepvalleys, overrockledges,closetoshoreand highupnearthepeaks.Allofwhich werepouringintothefiordsand addingtoouruniqueexperience.

-extract from the journal of Captain James Cook about Dusty Sound...

Cruising New Zealand - Fiordland

I’dliketosaywe“sailed”along,butitseemsnomatterwhichdirectiontheInlets,Soundsand waterwayswereorientated,thewindjustfunnelleddown. Eitherremainingonthebow,being extremelyfluky,orhittingusonthebeamas“bullets”,whichhadusholdingontight.

NowherewasthismoreevidentthanwhilemakingourwayupCookChannelinDuskySound. One minutewewereexperiencingafull-on25-30knotgale,withraisedsprayandwhitecaps,all accompaniedbydrivingrainandminimalvisibilityinthenarrowconfinesofthepassage.Then,less than30minuteslater,thesunwasout,theseawasdeadcalm,andtherewasevenasmallpatchof blueskybeforelowcloudsreturnedanditstartedrainingoncemore.

Itwasinthisunusuallycalmpatchthatwesawwhatlookedlikethreesticksinthewaterahead. “They’repenguins!”someonecalledout.Andsureenough,theywerepenguins,butnotthelittle bluecritterswe’veallseenatsometimeorother.Thesewerebiggerpenguins,whichdidn’tjust diveanddisappear…onlytopoptheirheadsupafewhundredmetresaway.Thesehadyellow stripesontheirheadsandswamliketheonesyouseeinAntarctica,divinginandoutofthewater astheyracedalongaheadofus,morelikeseals. WeinitiallythoughttheyweretheYellow-Eyed Penguin,butlaterresearchledustothinktheyweretheveryrareFiordlandCrestedPenguin.

Afterfivehoursoftravelthroughthesehigh-sidedwaterways,stoppinghereandtheretogetclose tothelargertumblingcascades–wherethedepthofwaterwasoftenaround200metres,little morethan50metresfromshore–weenteredBeachHarbourinBreakseaSound,withaviewto droppingtheanchor.

Abriefchatwiththeskipperofalargemotorlaunchtieduptoamooring,however,revealedthat therewasabanonanchoringinthisparticularbaybecauseofanattempttolimitthespreadofa typeofseaweed.

“Youcanpickupthatlargemooringinthedistanceifyoulike. Iftheownercomes–whichhe probablywon’t–thenyoucanmovetothatothermooringwiththeredfloat.Failingthat,feel freetoraftuptomyboat”,explainedtheskipper.

Sooffwetoddledtoattachourlinetoapermanentmooring–mucheasierthananchoring!What couldpossiblygowrong?! Ofcourse,anhourlater,thebigcharterboat(smallship)that“probably won’tturnup”…DIDturnup,butratherthanaskustomoveon,theyinsteadpickedupthe“other” mooring…soallendedhappily.

Allthishappenedwhiletheskipperofthefirstmotorlaunch,whichturnedouttoalsobeacharter vessel,cameoverinhisdinghytosayhello,whiletherainkeptpouringdown.“Here,wouldyoulike acoupleofrocklobsters?”heaskedashetiedupalongside.

Wethankedhimprofusely,andastherainpoureddown,hestoodthereinhisdinghywearing shorts,thongs(sorry,jandals)andasimplewetweatherjacket,explaininghowhe’ddroppeda coupleofshootersoffintheforestearlierinthedayandneededtopickthemupsoon. Plus,how hedoesn’treallylikecrayfish,buthischarterguestskeepwantingtocatchthem,andthey“…can’t eatthemfastenough”.

Cruising New Zealand - Fiordland

Thiswasthethirdsmallcharterboatwe’dcome acrossinthelastfewdays,withcustomers/guests comingandgoingviahelicopter,witheverysortof individuallyplannedexperiencebuiltin. Shooting, bushwalking,diving,fishing,sightseeingand photography…whatevertakesyourfancy,allwithin thisamazingpartoftheworld.

Certainly,adifferentsortof“cruiseship”experience tothenorm,andwellworthconsideringifyouwantto getawayfromitallwithmaybe8-10ofyourfriends.

Aroundthistime,westartedpaying particularattentiontotheweatherforecasts aswesetoursightsonmakingMilfordSound inthreedays’time.Notthatwewantedto racepastsomanywonderful,stunning places,butmywifeandtwosonswere bookedtocatchabustoQueenstownand, fromthere,backtoAustralia,attheendof theweek.

Asisoftenthecase,thereisneverenough time,butasanysailorwilltellyou,deadlines canbedisastrous.Fortunately,thewindwas duetoblowfromthesouthjustattheright time,soMilfordSound,herewecome,andI willsharethoseadventuresinpart3of CruisingNewZealandsFiordlandinthe AugustAHOY!

Cruising New Zealand - Fiordland

About the Author

Rob Latimer is a cruising sailor and co-founder of the Australian aid group Medical Sailing Ministries Inc. www msm org au, plus the Vanuatu oral health funding-support group Tooth Buddies www.toothbuddies.com.au

Since 2009, Rob, along with dozens of enthusiastic volunteers, has used his yacht, Chimere, to transport health teams around the remote islands of Vanuatu. More recently, he has fulfilled a life-long dream to sail around New Zealand.

About the Boat

After 16 years and a recent change in his circumstances, Rob has reluctantly put Chimere on the market. Well-equipped for remote voyaging, Chimere has plenty of adventures left in her yet, as you can discover HERE

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TROPICAL PACIFIC ISLANDS

ThisisthefourthinstalmentinanAHOYSailing NewsserieswrittenbyRichardChesherabout criticalhealthissuesyoucaneasilyavoidwhen cruisingthetropics–IF you learnfrom other cruisers'mistakesandgetseriousabout protecting yourself andyourcrew.

Everycruiserknowstheywillfacedangersfromthe weather,equipmentfailure,collisionswithothervessels, andaccidents.

Asensiblecaptaintakesprecautionstopreventthese accidentsbygettinggoodweatherforecasts,maintaining thevessel’sequipment,usinglightsandAISandkeeping watchatsea,havingagoodmedicalkitandsafety equipmentaboard,etc.Andmostcruisersknowwhatto doifthesedangerssurprisethematsea.

But anamazingnumberofcruisershavenoideahowto defendagainstthehealthdangers lyinginwaitforthem whentheyarrive inremotetropicalareasfarfrom medicalcare.

Ifyougetsickfromcontaminatedwater,attackedby malaria,adeadlybloodvirus-likedenguefever,parasites, fishpoisoningoraflesh-eatingmicrobe,itwillbealong andexpensiveordealandmaycausepermanent disabilitiesorevenkillyouoroneofyourcrew

Healthissuesareseriousdangersformariners butfewcruiserstakeelementaryprecautionsto protectthemselvesandtheircrew.

Diseaseorganismskillmorepeopleyearlythanallthe maritimeanddivingaccidents,shark,seaserpent, crocodile,seawasp,orevenpirateattackscombined.

Youandyourcrewtrulywanttoavoidgettingsickor injuredanywhere,butthisisespeciallythecasewhen cruisingfarfrommedicalsupport.

Thegoodnewsisthatmostcruisersavoidserioushealth issueseitherthroughluckorprudence.

Tobesurethegoodnewsappliestoyouandyour crew,followthesethreeverysimplerules:

FIND OUT WHAT HEALTH DANGERS ARE LURKING BEFORE YOU SET SAIL. DON’T LET THEM GET YOU.

BY RICHARD CHESHER, PH.D.

Q: WHAT ARE THE RISKS?

#1. HEALTH DANGERS FROM WHAT YOU EAT

A R I N E B A C T E R I A

“During our peacefully calm night crossing from Vieques to Culebra, we were trolling two fishing lines behind the boat in the hopes of catching ourselves a yummy, free meal. As dawn broke, we felt the line vibrate, and the next hour was spent reeling in the catch as we bobbed along our course. When it got to the boat, we were surprised at its smallish size, considering the fight it gave, and we couldn’t quite identify the type of fish it was. It looked like the shape of a small mahi with the colours of a tuna. Once we arrived in Vieques and were all settled in, Eben went online and spent about an hour trying to identify this mystery fish, but no luck.

“Only those who have had ciguatera know the extent of the agony because the symptoms are so varied and often indescribable. S/Y It’s a Necessity

"Ourguestpreparedthefishforusforsupper.Themeatresembledchickenintexture, quitethickandheavy,nothinglikewehadevereatenbefore.Theeveningwentonasusual. Girlswenttobed,andwehungout,playedsomegames,andheadedtobedourselves. Thatiswhenwhatseemedlike,timed-releasedpoisonsetin.Whenwegottobed,Ellia wokeupcomplainingofsorelegs.Ispentthenexthalfhourrubbingherlegs,thinking maybeshewasexperiencinggrowingpains.Butnotlongafter,Ariascoughedinher“Iam goingtothrowup”typeofcough,soEbenwhippedheroutofbedandstoodherinfrontof thetoiletjustintime.Wegotherbacktobed,andthenshestartedcomplainingthather legsweresore.That’swhenEbenstartedfeelingqueasyandwentoutintothesalon,only tofindbothofourguestsupandnotfeelingwelleither.Thenmylegsstartedachingas well.Instantlyweassumeditwasthefish,andthought,foodpoisoning.

The rest of the night was spent with four adults and two kids all getting sick on a boat with only two toilets to use. The boat looked like one that was being attacked by an evil poison. There were people sleeping outside, throwing up overboard, every bed was covered in towels in case of spontaneous eruptions, and every bowl, bucket, and pot was being used as a vomit receptacle. Other than everyone exploding from both ends, we were experiencing some other very strange symptoms, such as sore joints, muscle spasms, tingling sensations, mixed-up temperature sensations, confused taste buds, sore gums and teeth, headaches, and slight hallucinations. All of the above made for a horrible sleepless night for everyone except Arias. Thankfully after her first bought of sickness, she seemed to have gotten it out of her system and slept the rest of the night while everyone else writhed in pain.”

The symptoms persisted for six months, and the young girls recovered before the adults. Read the whole story at: https://itsanecessity.net/we-got-ciguatera-html/

DON'T LET THEM GET YOU!

200+ FOOD BORNE NASTY MONSTERS

A R I N E B A C T E R I A

The various monsters lurking in food are as varied and as common as those swimming in drinking water. There are about 200 common food-borne diseases, including bacteria, fungi, viruses, protozoan and other parasites, as well as toxins (like fish poisoning), chemical and physicalagents.

Globally, about 33 million people per year have an unfortunate encounter with these diseases and poisons. You can get sick from food anywhere in the world but are more at risk when cruising in remote areas, especially in the tropics, where sanitation standards might bealittlelessthanideal.

CIGUATERA

Ciguatera toxin is created by a dynoflagellage Gambierdiscus toxicus. It infests algae growingondeadordyingcoral.

Algae-eating fish bioaccumulate the toxin in their muscle and livers. Predatory fish concentrate the toxin even more when they eat algae-grazing fish. More than 400 species of reef and lagoon fish have caused ciguatera poisoning, and the toxin concentration varies sporadicallyandunpredictably.

Fish may be safe to eat in one location and toxic on a nearby reef. The problem can spread from one area to another, and with the continued widespread degradation of coral reefs around the world, the problem is getting much worse. In some areas where a particular specieswasconsideredOKtoeat(accordingtothelocals),theyarenowtoxic.

Over 50,000 people a year get ciguatera poisoning – it’s the most common and most seriousformoffishpoisoning.Clickthelinkbelowformoreinformation: https://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/yellowbook/2020/preparing-international-travelers/foodpoisoning-from-marine-toxins

Eating reef or lagoon fish in the tropics is playing Russian roulette with the health of everyone aboard. If you are unlucky, you and your crew are going to be sorry for a long time. It will completely ruin your cruising adventure.

Even some ocean-going fish, like tuna and mackerel, have become toxic in some areas.

Q: WHAT ARE THE RISKS?

#2 FOOD BORNE DISEASES

A R I N E B A C T E R I A

Avoidingtheseriouscomplications,misery,messiness,andevendeathcausedby swallowingfoodbornepredatorsortoxinsisridiculouslyeasyandinexpensiveforyachties whoeataboard.Ifyoueatashore,thereisnowaytoknowifyourmealwascontaminated untilthesufferingstarts.IfyouthinkI’msuggestingnoteatingfishoruncookedveggiesor poorlycookedmeatashoreinthetropics–you’reright-Iam.Touristsevengetfish poisoning,dysentery,andsalmonellapoisoninginsomeofthefinestrestaurantsandhotels inthetropics.Thatdoesn’thappenveryoften,butwhyriskit?Ifyou avoidEVERordering fish,raworpoorlycookedmeat,orfreshsaladswheneatingashoreinthetropics,youare notlikelytohaveaproblem.Plumpupwithwell-cookedfood(exceptseafood)anddrink bottledwaterorotherbeverages(noice),andyou’llbeperkyandhappythenextday.

Suppose you get invited to an Island feast in a village in Vanuatu. You’ll see a wide variety of local foodstuffs.

Pig is common at such shindigs. Do not eat it. It is seldom properly cooked.

When we attend feasts, we eat things we know are safe; like bananas or fruit we peel ourselves and well-cooked dishes (except pigs or fish).

We always bring our own water.

A R I N E B A C T E R I A

HERE ARE SOME ESSENTIALS FOR TUMMY PROTECTION. DON'T LET THEM GET YOU!

Wash greens and vegetables with one cap of household bleach in about 4 litres of fresh water. Let them soak for at least 15 minutes. Look at it carefully and remove any snails or insects. You can’t imagine how many of the 200-odd foodborne diseases this will eliminate from your salads. Just ensure the bleach is less than three months old, unscented and without additives. Wash fruits with soap, especially if they are not organic produce.

Cook fresh meat or chicken until well done.

Do not catch or eat fish caught in a coral reef or lagoon environment – in addition to avoiding fish poisoning by ciguatera or other fishy toxins, you’ll help minimize the serious overfishing of coral reef environments that is a problem almost everywhere in the tropics – and minimize anti-yachty feelings from local fishers.

Never order fish in a restaurant; it may be one kind of “safe” fish on the menu but an entirely different kettle of fish in the kitchen. Even if it really is a tuna or a deep water fish, it can also be extremely toxic with scombroid poison if allowed to sit for several hours in the sun or at room temperature in the kitchen. A toxic tuna or bonito may have a sharp or peppery taste; nausea, vomiting, diarrhoea and abdominal pains start within an hour of eating the fish. Order something other than fish, and don’t worry about it.

Never eat raw salads or rare or raw meat in restaurants. The fruit you peel yourself is fine, but uncooked salads in restaurants or salad bars are a risk anywhere in the tropics.

There is no way to tell if a fish is toxic or not.

Ciguatera toxins don’t change the texture, taste, or smell of a fish, nor are they destroyed by cooking, smoking, freezing, canning, salting, or pickling. If you catch the fish yourself well outside the reef, it is “probably” safe to eat. But the risk skyrockets if you accept a nice fillet from another yacht.

A couple of years ago, a yacht caught a big mackerel in the New Caledonia Lagoon. The captain shared his catch with his buddies on four other yachts, and everyone on all five yachts, except one little girl who didn’t eat the fish, got a serious case of ciguatera poisoning. Nobody died, but everybody was miserable for a very long time.

DON'T LET THEM GET YOU!

WENDY’S

STORY

A R I N E B A C T E R I A

"WewereinVava'uTongawhenWendybeganhavingterribleheadaches.

Wendy'sconditionwasserious.WereturnedtothemainharbourofNieafu,andinthe morning,WendyandourinfantsonRyanflewtoTongatapuandthenontoAuckland.She wasimmediatelyadmittedtotheBishopAucklandGeneralHospital,whereabatteryof testsshowednothing,butheragonywasincreasing.

Lumbarpuncturesrevealedexcessivecerebrospinal-fluidpressure,butthecausewasnot bacterialorviral.Ittooksixdaysoftestsbeforethedoctorsidentifiedthecauseasrat lung-wormparasiticmeningitis.

Recoverywasslow,veryslow.Wendy'sworstsymptomsabatedoverseveralweeks,but thestiffneckandnervoustissuedamagehavecontinuedforoverayear.

Shestillexperiencesdebilitatingpain,especiallyintheneck,withastrong,itching,burning sensationfromtherightarmpittothewrist.Wendysaysitvariesbetweensixandseven onapainscaleof10.Adoctorandcruiserfriendofourshasnotfullyrecoveredafter eightyears.

ParasiticmeningitisisnotrareinthePacificislands,andtherearemanycasesofpeople oncruisingyachtsbecomingseverelyinfected.Althoughfatalitiesarerare,theyhave happened.TwoWesternershavediedinrecentyearsfromparasiticmeningitisinVanuatu -bothofwhomwerehealthyadultswhoateraw,untreatedvegetables.Casesofparasitic meningitishavebeenreportedfromHawaii,Tahiti,NewCaledonia,Fiji,Tongaand Vanuatu.ItisfarmorecommoninSoutheastAsia.

Most Westerners get infected by eating raw vegetables, usually in the form of a salad or coleslaw.

Others have been infected by eating insufficiently cooked intermediate hosts or transport hosts such as escargot, shore crabs, freshwater shrimp (especially dangerous to eat), fish or frogs.

Wendy got it from a coleslaw made from a cabbage that was washed in freshwater (but no bleach) and made into coleslaw. I ate very little, our son Ryan ate none & Wendy ate a large serving.”

https://www.amazon.com/Cruisers-Handbook-Fishing-Scott-Bannerot/dp/0071427880

“I can't hear out of my left ear. My mouth is numb. I've got a strange burning sensation shooting through my body....

Wendy's story by Scott and Wendy Bannerot S/V Elan. Authors of The Cruisers Handbook on Fishing

A R I N E B A C T E R I A

Foodpoisoningcancausevomiting,diarrhoea,stomachaches,nausea–orlotsworse, dependingonwhatyouget.

IfyougetCiguatera,thesymptomsareprettyeasytodiagnose,butmanyotherserious diseases,likerat-lungwormdisease,requireextensivetestingtodiagnose.

Keep PeptoBismol aboard.Ifyouhaveastomachupsetshortlyaftereating,chewtwo PeptoBismoltabletstoquicklyfindoutifitiscausedbyabacterialinfection(andget relief).PeptoBismollinesthestomachwallwithbismuth,blockingbacterialtoxins.Ifyour discomfort(bloating,aches,acidstomach)wascausedbybacteria,youwillfeelfinein10to 20minutes.

Ifit’ssomethingelse,likeavirus,aprotozoan,oranotherhealthissue,thePeptoBismolwill havelittleornoeffect,butit’sagoodquicktesttofindouthowserioustheproblemis.Buy thechewabletablets;theykeepforeverandareaninexpensivewaytodiagnoseyourbelly acheandhopefullyprovideinstantrelief.

Ifyouoramemberofyourcrewateareeforlagoonfish,anditwasciguatoxin,symptoms start2to12hourslaterandincludenumbnessandtingling,burningorpainfromcoldwater ontheskin,jointpain,musclepain,diarrhoea,weakness,headache,chills,abdominalpain, itchyskin,nausea,vomiting,sweating.Dependingonthedoseingested,severecasesmay resultintearingoftheeyes,chills,skinrash,itching,inabilitytowalk,shortnessofbreath, drooling,andparalysis.

Deathduetoheartorrespiratoryfailureoccursinrarecases.Numbnessandtinglingmay lastuptothreeweeks.Apainfulitchingbeginningdaysafteringestionmayspreadfromthe extremitiesandbeworseatnight.Ared,itchyrashonthehandsandfeetmaylast2to5 daysandismadeworsebyalcoholconsumption.Thereversalofhotandcoldsensations maylastformonths.

Insomnia, delirium and visual disorders lasted several months in 20% of the patients in one study. Patients may have a cold, clammy appearance with heart palpitations and a low body temperature

Once exposed to the toxin, a second poisoning (even years later) will be worse. Much worse.

(Ref: Edmonds, C. 1989, Dangerous Marine Creatures Reed Books Pty. NSW Australia; 140-145.)

Intravenous Ketamine, given within 48 hours of the first appearance of symptoms, can quickly alleviate Ciguatera poisoning, see jamanetwork.com/journals/jama/article-abstract/371918, but you’ve got to get to a hospital that has Ketamine and knows how to use it for ciguatera poisoning within 48 hours.

If everyone aboard is really sick and the yacht is in a remote area, there is nothing you or anyone else can do but suffer it through.

Some victims recommend taking Vitamin B12 to reduce symptoms.

Richard and Frederique Chesher began cruising the Pacific aboard their Peterson 44 cutter in 1976. Richard is a PhD marine scientist, and Frederique is an artist and professional photographer. Together they created and publish the Rocket Cruising Guide to New Caledonia and the Rocket Cruising Guide to Vanuatu, widely praised as the best cruising guides in the world.

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