Ahoy Sailing Australia-South Pacific- June 2023

Each month the Down Under Rally draws the name of one of our members as the winner of the member's prize draw.

The winner chooses any item from the woman's or men's range of PredictWind Clothing plus a PredictWind Cap. predictwind.com/clothing-shop

The Adventure Begins

By John Hembrow Down Under Rally

After a weather-related delay of just over a week, the 2023 Go East Rally fleet of 20 vessels departed the Gold Coast on the 18th Of May.

Most were happy for the delay as it provided the opportunity to slow down a little after weeks of vessel & crew preparations.

The Down Under Rally held several events in the week before the intended departure date of the 10th of May, including a hands-on Saftey At Sea Wet Drill & Flare demonstration provided by Sunshine Sailing Australia. The course participants had previously completed the course's e-learning (theory) component with Above & Beyond Boating

The Adventure Begins

By John Hembrow Down Under Rally

In between the serious business of vessel inspections, satellite communications, weather routing & passage planning seminars, departure briefings and so on, there was also time to relax and with morning Yoga sessions and some fun social events, including a Meet The Fleet Cocktail Party, Island Time BBQ & what has become a Go East Rally tradition the Bon Voyage Masquerade Party.

The Adventure Begins

By John Hembrow Down Under Rally

These pre-departure events all took place at , where the entire staff went the extra mile to ensure we were comfortable & all of our participant's needs were catered for, including facilitating some last-minute haul-outs!

Yoga Sessions with Yoga4Yachties

The Adventure Begins

By John Hembrow

Vessel & Saftey Equipment Inspections

Final Registration & collection of Rally Goodies

Down Under Rally

The Adventure Begins

By John Hembrow Down Under Rally

Much of the following week was spent in front of computer screens using the many tools the PredictWind professional subscription provides to analyse and compare the various forecast models to determine when a suitable voyage forecast would present itself.

Vessel & Equipment Checks

On the 16th of May, a suitable forecast was identified, and the fleet gathered at the Southport Yacht Club in readiness for a departure on the 17th when the Australian Border Force (ABF) would attend and issue our outward clearance certificates.

The Adventure Begins

By John Hembrow Down Under Rally

After a final departure briefing & a well-organised, efficient & professional, yet personable visit by the ABF officers, we were ready to depart, and the excitement and anticipation levels were high... all the work was done & the long dreamed of adventure was about to begin!

The Adventure Begins

By John Hembrow Down Under Rally

As we were making the passage aboard Cavallino III, a 22.5m Motor Yacht & departing the next day, Leanne & I followed the fleet in the tender and photographed them as they made their way from the SYC to the Southport Seaway.

Without fail, each time I see all those boats heading out to sea, my emotions get the better of me & this time was no exception... it was a strange feeling when we turned back with the fleet all headed out to sea.

The Adventure Begins

By John Hembrow Down Under Rally

For most participants, the voyage itself lived up to expectations. Some found open ocean sailing more challenging than expected, while others said it was the best sailing they had ever experienced. However, all were very excited to arrive in New Caledonia and eager to celebrate their achievement of having successfully completed their first multi-day & night ocean passage.

Sadly the vessel IRIA was forced to retire early due to steering failure and was towed back to Southport by another of the participant's vessels, Lai Lai Lady, which was a mammoth undertaking on their behalf and resulted in LAI LAI LADY also retiring, however both, LAI LAI LADY and IRIA plan on setting off again this month.

Another of the fleet, VAQUITA, suffered rigging failure and rudder damage and spent an uncomfortable 30-plus hours on a parachute anchor before resuming the voyage under a jury-rigged steering system before being met by a safety vessel and taken under tow just before they entered the pass into the lagoon in New Caledonia.

The stories of VAQUITA, IRIA & LAI LAI LADY will be shared in AHOY in the next couple of issues of AHOY, but for the moment, we are happy to say all the people are safe, and the vessels are in port.

The Down Under Rally would like to take this opportunity to acknowledge and thank the following organisations for their assistance and attention throughout the period the fleet was at sea.

The Adventure Begins

By John Hembrow Down Under Rally

The Down Under Rally would also like to acknowledge & thank Bato Flags for providing our fleet & courtesy flags and Grotty Yachty Clothing, who supplied our t-shirts and for assisting with the design.

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Wave Polars

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Using advanced wave modelling of your boat's characteristics, the PredictWind router can now predict the performance of your boat in all wave conditions.

And The Winner is...

Thanks to everyone who entered the draw to win a copy of The Hunter & The Gatherer from Exploring Eden Books, which we featured in the May Ahoy Sailing News.

We also really appreciated the feedback many of you provided about AHOY when you submitted your entry.

Congratulations, Sue S on winning the draw.

Your copy of The Hunter & The Gatherer is on its way thanks to Exploring Eden Books & Ahoy Sailing.

The Hunter & The Gatherer has been receiving some great reviews, including the one below from Noonsite in the USA, who many consider the authority on all things cruising:

This deliciously-produced book is not only a joy to look at and hold but is packed with mouth-watering recipes that you can create in your galley using ingredients you can find (almost) anywhere.

This book tackles it all, in superb style, with photographs to die for and an abundance of really useful information that will have you dying to start foraging yourself and get the pan on the stove for some recipe testing.

A book that can be enjoyed by all cruisers, both newbies and seasoned, and an inspiration to cook a meal straight from the source in the freshest form possible.

TANNA

DAY 6 - SUNDAY 06/08/23

No activities planned

DAY 7 - MONDAY 07/08/23

MorningArrival formalities (customs/biosecurity/immigration) at Port Resolution Yacht Club

Afternoon/Evening: Welcome Ceremony including Black Magic demonstration feast & custom dancing/ singing

DAY 8 - TUESDAY 08/08/23

Custom Life Village & School tour.

Afternoon/Early Evening: Mt Yasur volcano tour.

DAY 9 - WEDNESDAY 09/08/23

No planned events

Day 10 - THURSDAY 10/08/23

Depart Tanna for Erromango

(Yachts will arrive in Dillons Bay Erromango in the late afternoon or evening)

ERROMAN

DAY 11 - FRIDAY 1

Morning: Village

Afternoon/Evening: We

DAY 12 - SATURDAY

Ancestral Caves

Day 13 - SUNDAY 13

Depart Erromango fo

EFATE

Day14-MONDAY14/08/23

ArriveatYachtingWorld,PortVila,on12thAugust

Day15-TUESDAY15/08/23

‘WelcomeToTheBigSmoke'eventatYachtingWorld (Food/Drinks/Entertainment)

UPDATE

11 boxes, each containing 12 lights (132 lights in total) are on their way, thanks to the cruising community and Luci Lights Australia.

T h e R o c k e t C r u i s i n g G u i d e s t o N e w C a l e d o n i a & V a n u a t u h a v e b e e n c i t e d a s t h e b e s t c r u i s i n g g u i d e s i n t h e w o r l d .

B a s e d o n h i g h r e s o l u t i o n s a t e l l i t e a n d a e r i a l p h o t o g r a p h y , t h e c r u i s i n g g u i d e t o N e w C a l e d o n i a & V a n u a t u g i v e s a p r e c i s e , a c c u r a t e a n d c o l o u r f u l i n f o r m a t i o n o n e v e r y p r a c t i c a l a n c h o r a g e i n N e w C a l e d o n i a & V a n u a t u .

DOWN UNDER RALLY MEMBERS

SAVE 20% WHEN YOU PURCHASE THE ROCKET CRUISING GUIDES!

LEARN MORE ABOUT THE ROCKET GUIDES HERE:

DOWNUNDERRALLY.COM/ROCKET-CRUISING-GUIDES

the best value for money I have ever received!

OVER THE PAST 12 MONTHS, OVER 500 PEOPLE HAVE BECOME DOWN UNDER RALLY MEMBERS.

At only $125.00 for the first year and $99.00 per year to renew, Down Under Rally Membership is extremely good value for money. It is very easy for members to save much more than the membership fee thanks to the various discounts and offer our rally partners provide.

SOME OF OUR MEMBERS HAVE GONE AS FAR AS TO SAY THAT DOWN UNDER RALLY MEMBERSHIP REPRESENTS THE BEST VALUE FOR MONEY THEY HAVE EVER RECEIVED!

In addition, becoming a member will give you access to our Offshore Cruising Preparation Course for as long as you are a member. The information we share in the course will help you gain the confidence to venture further afield when the time is right. As a Down Under Rally Member, you and a partner member of your choice will be able to watch the course content as often as you like for as long as your membership is current.

TheDownUnderRallyhasalong-standing relationshipwithDAZMAC,whoarecustoms brokers TheDownUnderRallyrecommends contactingDAZMACtogetaquotefromthemto actasyouragentshouldyouberequiredto importorre-importavessel

Youcanmakeanobligation-freeenquirywith DazmacviathefollowingpageoftheDown UnderRallywebsite: wwwdownunderrallycom/agents DiscountsforDownUnderRallyMembers.

BOATERSWORLDISANONLINEDIRECT-TO-CONSUMERMARINEPARTSSUPPLIER

BoatersWorldstocksawiderangeofgenuineandaftermarketpartssuchasservicekits,oilfilters, fuelfilters,airfilters,impellers,seawaterpumps,sparkplugs,drivebelts,anodes,startermotors, alternators,heatexchangers,propellersandmuchmore.

AsastockistofVolvoPenta,SPXJohnson,SherwoodandRacorfilters,andNGKSparkplugs,you canbesuretofindthepartstosatisfyyourneedsasacruiser.

Inadditiontothesegenuineparts,weofferalargerangeofaftermarketbrandssuchasMartyr anodes,Fleetguardfilters,Sierramarineparts,Albinseawaterpumpsandimpellers,Solas propellers,andmanymore

These premium quality aftermarket parts will fill the more price-sensitive cruisers with confidence as they sail off into the sunset.

DOWN UNDER RALLY MEMBERS RECEIVE A 10% DISCOUNT* ON PURCHASES MADE VIA THE BOATERS WORLD ONLINE STORE.

If you've visited the Bundaberg Port Marina over the last 20 years, then you have probably met the lovely lady featured in the image above.

Samantha (most of us know her as Sam or Sammy) has decided on a change of pace and some new adventures.

We wish you well Sammy, and thanks for making the impossible possible for the Down Under Rally on many occasions. We will miss you!

CRUISE IN COMPANY CRUISE IN COMPANY

LEARN MORE

LEARN MORE

Departs Fiji in September

Departs Fiji in September

LEARN MORE LEARN MORE

Arrive In Australia Between September & November

SailingwithTheDownUnderRallyprovidesourrallyparticpantswith SailingwithTheDownUnderRallyprovidesourrallyparticpantswith accesstotheknowledgeandtherelationshipswehavegainedover accesstotheknowledgeandtherelationshipswehavegainedover manyyearsofcrusingintheSWPacific&Australia. manyyearsofcrusingintheSWPacific&Australia.

IInadditionourrallyparticipantshavetheopportunitytovisit nadditionourrallyparticipantshavetheopportunitytovisit destinationsthatmayotherwisenotbeanoption. destinationsthatmayotherwisenotbeanoption.

Andwehaveplentyoffunintheprocess! Andwehaveplentyoffunintheprocess!

Cruising

New Zealand's Fiordland

GETTINGTHERE-CROSSINGTHETASMAN

SailingtoNewZealand,hadalwaysbeenalifetimedreamofmine. Well,almostalifetime. Because foratleastfiftyofmysixty-plusyears,thedesiretovoyagefromMelbournetoNewZealandhad existed. Notthatitwasoriginallymyidea. Notcompletely. Itfirststartedwithmysea-lovingKiwi father,andolderbrother,andsomehowitimbueditselfintomyDNAwaybackinmyformative, teenyearsinthe1970s.

SohereIwasinJanuary2020,settingoutforwhatIthoughtwouldbea4-monthtrans-Tasman jaunt. InthewordsofBilboBaggins,(ofLordoftheRingsfame)asimplecaseof…“thereandback again”.

LittledidIknow,thatwithinthreeshortmonths,NewZealand,Australiaandtheworld,wouldbe plungedintoaglobalpandemic,fromwhichnoneofuscouldescape;leastofallthoseatsea. In theend,fourmonthsturnedintoeighteenmonths,comprisinglockdowns,redtape,hotel quarantine,Customsconsiderations,bureaucraticfarce,andsuspicion.

Then,likeaclassic,“Wouldyoubelieve…?”momentfromanepisodeofGetSmart,ourarrivalback inAustraliahadus“surrounded”by…“six-armedBorderForceagents,twofullycladquarantine officials,onesnifferdogandacirclinghelicopter”. AndwhilstSiegrfriedwasusuallyrightwhenhe answered…“IfindthatveryhardtobelieveMax”…inthiscasehe’dhavebeenwrong. Therereally was!

A voyage forty years in the making, and complicated by the impact of COVID19, sailor Rob Latimer sails his yacht Chimere in the wake of Captain Cook, leading us on a journey through New Zealand’s rugged and remote Fiordland.

Cruising New Zealand - Fiordland

Backtothevoyage,andchiefamongstmydesires,afterfinallygettingtoNewZealand,was exploringFiordland TosailintomajesticMilfordSound,gazeupatthetoweringmountaintops,feel sprayfromthewaterfallsandtravelinthewakeofeveryyachtieshero,CaptainCook,albeit250 yearsaftertheevent. TothinkthatCookchartedboththeNorthandtheSouthislandsinjustunder 12months…trulyremarkable.

UnlikeCaptainCook,ofcourse,Ihadallthemoderngadgetsandcomfortsbefittingourmodern times…fromsatellitecommunicationsandweatherforecastingtochartplottersand,well,charts, largelybasedontheonesheoriginallycreated...itstillamazesme.

BeforecruisingthroughFiordland,however,therewasfirstthetaskofgettingthere!? Inthis regard,atleastforthefirststepofcrossingtheTasman,Ichannelthewordsofmylatefather (survivorofmanynear-misses)insaying…“LuckyLatimerstrikesagain”. Aquickglanceatourchart plotter’soutward-boundsnailtrailconfirmsthis,showingvirtuallyastraightlinefromBassStraitto CookStraitaround1,400nauticalmiles,whichwecoveredintendayswiththehelpofasteadynorwestercominginoffthesternquarter.

Cruising New Zealand - Fiordland

Ourat-searoutinecrossingtheTasman wasprettysimple.Inthemorning,thesun wouldriseonthebow. Andintheevening, itwouldgotobedoffthestern. Accompanied,itmustbesaid,by“Happy Hour”,comprisingcheeseandnibbles… andstorytime.

Withsixsoulsaboard,threeofwhomIhad foundonline(andwho’dtravelled interstatetojoinus),therewasalwaysthe potentialfordiminishingharmonywith eachpassingday. Buthappily,everyone didtheirbittoensureitwasafuntime.

COMPLETINGTHEOFFICIALSTUFF

Asiftomakeupfortheeasycrossing,windsgustingupto 50knotsonarrivalhadusflyinglittlemorethanahankieas weenteredQueenCharlotteSound. Thispresenteduswith adilemma,giventhelatenessofthehour. Shouldwe proceeddirectlytothePictonwharfinsuchconditionsin ordertoclearcustoms,orshouldweholdoffuntilmorning?

Cruising New Zealand - Fiordland

"Amassivefeelingofreliefand satisfactionovercameusall followingthedroppingofthe anchorinthiswonderfully shelteredbay.

Amidstthemayhem,wereceived acallfromNZCustomsonJohn’s phoneinquiringaboutourplansto dropanchorbeforeproceeding directlytothePictonwharffor clearance.Somethingwhichthey obviouslyhadissueswith.

Fromourperspective,wewantedto avoidanight-timearrivalin (unfamiliar)Picton,throughthe narrowSounds,withwindsgusting 40-50knots.

Iessentiallypresenteditasa“risk andsafety”issue,whichmetwith generalacceptanceontheotherend ofthephone,theconversationbeing betweenJohnandtheofficial, becauseIwasonthehelm,andafter all,kiwi-Johnspeaksthelocaldialect.

Asacompromise,wewillbeupat 5:30amtomorrowandawayby6:00 am,withahopeofreachingPictonby 8:30amforCustomsandQuarantine clearance."

In the end, we settled on the latter option, choosing to shelter overnight in nearby Resolution Bay.

But as expected the authorities weren’t happy, as I recorded in my daily “Ships Log” at the time…

Tues, 4 Feb 2020, Resolution Bay, Marlborough Sounds (Chimere Ships Log)

Cruising New Zealand - Fiordland

Theofficialstuffwentoffwithoutahitch. Asabonus,verylittleneededtobe handedovertoQuarantineasaresultofus eatingorcookingeverylastbitoffresh foodonboardbeforetyingupatthePicton wharf.

Wewerealsoabletosatisfactorilyprove Chimere’scleanhullcredentials–a conditionofentry–bymeansof photographsandrecentslippingreceipts. Withthefirstlegofthevoyagecomplete, thenextlegstartedsoonenough,withthe departureoftheoldcrewandthearrivalof thenew.

ItwasnowontoLyttletonHarbour,then Akaroa,mid-waydowntheeastcoastand justashortdrivefromtheSouthIsland’s largestcity,Christchurch.

Thiswouldgiveusachancetorestockthe pantryandprepareforthefollowingleg southtothetownofBluff(near Invercargill),StewartIslandandFoveaux Strait;gatewaytoFiordland.

SOUTHTOBLUFF

OuttoseaagainandthesummerweatherremainedkindastheEastCoastoftheSouthIsland slippedbyoffourstarboardbeam. Progresswassteadyat7-8knots,ourobjectivecloserbythe hour,withthewindlargelyfrombehindandtheseascalm.

Butallthatwasabouttochange. Fromthelatestweatherforecastandthebuildingcloudmassto thesouth,itwasclearourgoodrunwasabouttoend.

In less than a day, with the arrival of a ‘brisk’ southwest change, it would be onthe-nose-sailing, unfortunately arriving before we’d had a chance to either reach Stewart Island or round the bottom corner into Bluff. Our sailing strategy now went from racing to beat the change to finding a suitable anchorage to sit out the gale. Because, as a wise person once said … “gentlemen don’t beat too windward,” .. or words to that effect. The log from the time sums it up …

Friday 21 February 2020, Tautuku Peninsular – North Side (Chimere Ships Log)

Weweredoingaround8knotsas

Dunedinslippedbyonour starboardside,oureyesseton reachingStewartIsland,orpossibly Bluff. Ourhopewastogetthere beforethearrivaloftomorrow’sbig blow.

Prudencedictatedthedownloading ofanotherweatherforecast,onthe SatPhone,intheearlyeveningand aftersomecalculationsofdistance, expectedspeedandweather-frontarrival-times,Iconcludedtwo things:

1.WewereNOTlikelytoreach StewartIslandorBluffbeforethe arrivaloftheweatherfront.

2.Ifwetravelledfurtherthan TautukuPeninsular,75milessouth ofDunedin’sCapeSaunders,then wewouldhavenosuitable anchorageinwhichtoshelterwhen thebigblowhit,leavingusin exposedwatersmeetingthegale headon.

Itisnotthatweweren’tupto beatingtowindwardandbashing intorisingseas,whencalleduponto doso. Butgiventhechoice,of comfort,versesdiscomfort,wewere startingtoerronthesideof COMFORT,andwithafewdaysstill upoursleeveswedecidedtoretreat early,torestatanchor,inorderto fightanotherday.

Cruising New Zealand - Fiordland

So, the decision was made. We would aim for Tautuku Peninsular, where the Cruising Guide suggested we could find shelter. First, from the nor-easter that was currently blowing us south, then from the south west gale when it arrived mid-morning.

Thedilemmawefaced,however,wasthatat ourcurrentspeedwewouldlikelyendup30 milessouthofTautukubymorning.

Tosafelydropanchorindaylight,intheonly viableboltholeonthissectionofthecoast, wouldrequireustodrasticallyreducespeed; morethanhalvingit,to3-4knots.

Toslowdown,westartedbycompletelystowingthe double-reefedmain–adifficultenoughtask,atnight, withafollowingsea. Still,weweredoing6-7knots. This wasfollowedbyaprogressivereductioninthesizeofthe jibtillitwaslittlemorethanthesizeofatablecloth. Our speeddropped,butonlyto5-6knots;increasingto7 knotsaseachwaveliftedoursternandthrewusforward.

Itwasastrangesensation,tryingtoreducethespeedof theboat,wheneveryinstinct,tothatpoint,hadnaturally beenaboutgoingfaster. Intheendwedecidedtohead furtherouttosea,therebyincreasingthedistance covered,withtheplanbeingtocurvebacktothecoastat TautukuPeninsular,whereourarrivalwouldcoincidewith sunrise.

A week earlier, thinking it would be good to have some extra hands onboard for the leg south, I was curiously flicking through the many-and-varied sailor profiles on a crew finder website. At the time, we were anchored in a blissfully calm corner of Akaroa Harbour and as John made dinner-noises in the galley, I relayed features of each potential new candidate which went something like...

“How ‘bout this one John? … this person is … Ready Now – Speaks English, Swedish and French –Eager to Learn – Non-Smoker – Single – Height 5’ 6’’ – Searching for Soulmate/Partner – Open Minded – Can Follow Orders – No Facial Piercings –Nationality, Swedish – Age, 29 … ” At this point, John chimed in … “What website are you on bro?” and followed up with, “Show me the picture” . Returning to the galley with a big smile on his face, John’s sage advice was clear … “keep searching, bro” .

SoitwasthatwelocatedsteadyanddependableCarsten,whojusthappenedtobeenjoyingan extended,flexibleNewZealandholiday;andwasactuallyasailor.

Butdon’tthinkwedidn’tcheckhimoutoverthephonefirst,wheretherewasampleopportunityto firesomeprobingquestionsathim,suchas…

“Do you prefer your beer warm or cold?” … Answer: COLD … and “Do you prefer your peanut butter crunchy or smooth?” … Answer: CRUNCHY.

Twodayslater,CarstenwasunpackinghisbagonhisallottedbunkaboardChimere,hisanswerto the“Vegemitequestion”almostforgotten.

Now,afterthreedaysatseatogether,enjoyingeachother’scompanyandsharingmanystories,an amusingthinghappenedatthechangeofwatcharound3:30am. AsIclimbedthecompanionway andsteppedintothecockpit,Carsten,whohadbeenonwatchfromaroundmidnight,inquired…

“Wollen wir die Fock jetzt auf die andere Seite nehmen?”

We were both a bit blurry-brained, and wanting to hear the question properly, I inquired politely … “What’s that?” “…oh, I am speaking German, sorry … will we take the jib to the other side?”

On another occasion, Carsten inquired … “what are Morips?” Not quite understanding, I replied, “What do you mean, the Morips?” “You know when you say … give it Morips” “Oh, more revs. The engine revs. The RPM. Speed of the engine, the accelerator …”

I think by now, the meaning had been conveyed, but in true irreverent Aussie-Kiwi style, from that moment on, “Morips” became part of our daily lexicon?!

Cruising New Zealand - Fiordland

In the end, our shelter-seeking plan worked a treat. After closing the coast at daybreak, we pottered south, finally dropping anchor behind Rainbow Isles, which, whilst not mentioned in the Cruising Guide, gave a good level of protection from the northeast wind and swell. When the expected SW change finally hit, we could easily reposition a few miles down the coast where it would be less exposed. Soon after dropping anchor, we were greeted by two large albatrosses, which paddled around our stern in the hope of a feed.

Thiscameasabitofasurprisebecauseyouexpectseagullsandduckstocomescavenging…but thesethingswereenormous. Justbeautifulcreatures,theirwingsallfoldedupandtheirregal headsandmassivebeaksgivingthemamajesticair,despitetheirscavengingintent.Likeseagullson steroids.

As it turned out, the bird’s instincts were rewarded, with John catching the very first fish of the voyage, hooking a fearsome-looking thing of decent size while we passed across a small bay in the early dawn.

It was around this time that my Bass Strait sailing experience really started to come into its own. Specifically, the need to grab favourable “weather windows”, between passing systems, in order to hop from place to place in reasonable comfort.

Thankful for our snug anchorage, for now we were just happy to sit out the howling souwest change which blew through at over 40 knots, having us dangling on the anchor-chain like a kite on a string.

Soon enough though, we were analysing the next weather forecast, in order to plan our exit strategy.

Asitturnedout,wedidn’thavelongtowait,withabriefperiodof‘relativecalm’expectedto materialiseearlythenextmorning;stillonthenose,butasgoodasitwasgoingtoget,atleastfor thenextfewdays.

Gettingawayearlythenextmorning,wechallengedtheoldadageabout…“gentlemennotsailingto windward”–ormaybewesimplyaren’tgentlemen–bytackingalmostallthewaytoBluff.

Foralltheusualreasons,wehadplannedtoarriveatBluffwithdaylighttospare. Particularlysince theapproachrequiredskirtingrockyoutcropsandenteringupacurvychannelbeforethenfinding asuitableChimere-sizedspotonawharfsomewhere. Intheend,itwas10:00pmbythetimewe tiedup,withthelongsummertwilightdefinitelygone. Thatsaid,itcouldhavebeenevenmore challengingifthetidehadn’tbeengoingourwayandtheharbourlightsweren’tasbrightasthey were.

Cruising New Zealand - Fiordland

Two-thirdsthewaydownthecoast,oncethedecisionwasmadetoheadforthe(closer)harbour townofBluff,(insteadofStewartIsland)IcalledaheadtoBluffHarbourRadioonVHFChannel16to inquireabouttheavailabilityofaberth. TheyreceivedmycallandsuggestedIcontactBluff Fishermen’sRadioonVHFChannel61. ThisIdid,andwhoshouldcomeontheairwavesbuta womanbythenameofMary.

Now,I’dheardaboutMaryfromafellowsailorwho’dexplained… “Mary…sheknowseveryone downintheBluffarea. Shewassohelpfulwhenwesaileddownthatwayayearago. Wewereon theradiotoherregularly.She’saninstitution.”

So,thiswastheverysameMaryIwastalkingwith,theoneI’dheardsomuchabout.Iinquired… “Isthereanychanceofaberth? Wearea53-footyacht,3peopleonboard,andweexpecttobe arrivinginBluffaround8:00pm–beforedark–OVER.”

Mary’sreplycamestraightback… “Leaveitwithme. Thereareacoupleofoptions. I’llgetbackto you. Doyouhaveapenhandy…thisismyphonenumber. Ifyoucancallmeaftertheradio scheduleandweatherreportI’mgoingtodoshortly,I’llhavemoredetailsforyou,OVER.”

“Rogerthat,Mary.Manythanks.Willdo. ChimereOUT,” …Iresponded,justamazedathow cheerful,efficient,andhelpfulthispersonwastome,atotalstrangerannouncingmyarrivalinafew hours'time;myfriendwasright.

WethenlistenedtoMarygivethe5:30pmnationalweathersituationreport,withaparticularfocus onthisregion,followedbyscheduledcheeriosandcall-upstoadozenormoreyachtsandother vesselsspreadacrossStewartIslandandFiordland. Eachreportingtheircurrentposition,revised POBs(afterall,itmighthavechangedfromlastnight’sscheduledcall-up),intentionsandother necessaryinformation.

MyconversationwithMaryashorttimelaterledtoanewcontact,Chris,…amaninauthority connectedtotheStewartIslandferry,whohelpfullyconfirmed… “yeahmate,noworries,there’s roomattheferrywharf,justbehindtheferryandasternofafishingboatcalledMana…youcan staythereforafewdays”

Asitturnedout,abitafter8:00pm,wewerestillmilesfromtheport,tackingourwayacross ToetoesBayintoever-strongerwindsandmountingseas,makingsuretokeepwellclearofthe shallowwatersclosebyDogIsland.WiththesunsinkingfasterinthewestandhopingtokeepMary up-to-dateonourmovements,Icalledagain… “HelloMary,wearetakinglongerthanexpected. Wewillprobablybeinabitafter9:00pmnow”. “Noproblems.Givemeacallasyoumakeyour approach,andI’llcomedownandhelpyouwiththelines”,respondedMary,inhernowfamiliar cheerful,no-nonsenseway.

Soitwasthataround10:00pm,wefinallytiedup,withMary wavingatorchtoshowuswheretogoandthenloopingourlines overthebollardsonthedark,coldwharf. “Makesureyouputa loopinitbeforeyouthrowitatme”,shesaid,standinghighupon thedock.Withtheengineoffandtheimmediatetaskscomplete, beforeheadingoffintothedarkness,Marycalledout... “So, you’reallsetforthenight.Isawyoucomingupthechannel.Ican seeyoufrommyhome.Makeyourselfcomfortable,andI’llpop backdowninthemorning(that’sSunday)tocheckonyouand seeifyouhaveanyproblemsorquestions.Seeyouthen,bye”.

So, here we were, almost at the bottom of New Zealand; Stewart Island to the south of us and Fiordland just a short distance off to the west. It was now time to relax briefly, savour the moment and enjoy the experience.

Once again, the value of modern weather forecasting and communications came into its own. Particularly considering the weather patterns in these parts are so often fast-changing and localized, shaped in large part by the topography. Naturally, we were always prepared for the worst, but avoiding it in the first place was our chosen option, and the colourful weather maps, downloaded with regularity, certainly helped us to do just that.

As we occupied ourselves for a few days, exploring the creeks and harbours of Stewart Island till the arrival of the new crew, one day’s weather stood out. The downloaded GRIB file showed all colours of the rainbow, plus black and even white. While the west coast, just 50 miles away, was predicted to receive northerly winds gusting 60 knots and more, here in Foveaux Strait, the outlook was for something in the order of 5-15 knots.

Fiordland Beckons

After ten days on board, it was now time to wave goodbye to our new-best friend Carsten and, at the same time welcome the new crew from Australia … my wife Linda and two sons, Matt and James. Fiordland beckoned as the next and most exciting stage was about to commence.

Meanwhile, the weather remained “variable”. Which translates into Storm Force winds on the West Coast, and Moderate Breezes south of Bluff and along the north coast of Stewart Island. So instead of heading straightaway to Fiordland, it was decided to ease into things a bit by making our way south to Stewart Island; maintaining our desire for comfort over discomfort.

This turned out to be a welcomed diversion, because whilst we hadn’t planned on spending much, if any, time at Stewart Island, it turned out to be a real gem. Offering so many places to explore, with an abundance of safe anchorages, remote wilderness and so many fish even we were able to catch some.

After crossing the Foveaux Strait, Stewart Island’s main (and only) town of Oban was our first port of call. An overnight stay and it was then further south down the east coast, exploring as we went, but all the while filling in time till the next big break in the weather.

Finally, Setting Course for Fiordland!

It was always going to be a close-run thing. Sailing from Port William on the north coast of Stewart Island to Preservation Inlet, the southern gateway to Fiordland. Our goal was to cover around 80 miles in daylight hours as the storm of recent days receded. Our overnight anchorage had been snug and secure, with only the wind in the rigging and the sound of passing showers on the deck to remind us that we were anchored in a rather remote corner of the world.

By 7 am, the wind was down to only 20-30 knots at the western entrance to Foveaux Strait; but was predicted to diminish throughout the day. And if everything went to plan, we would not have to tack, with the south-west wind predicted to be sufficiently off-the-bow to enable us to hold a direct course – to Windsor Point (next to Puysegur Point) at the SW corner of the South Island.

Out of necessity, we needed to get away early, and in retrospect, we should have got away in the dark, at around 5 or 6 o’clock, but in fact, it was closer to 7:30 am that we headed out of the bay, with the morning-light already giving us a day-time view of our surroundings.

Along the north coast of Stewart Island, things were flat calm – as they say in the thrillers, TOO calm with the light but steady winds off the port beam punctuated by occasional “bullets” that came down from Mount Anglem (the 1000 metre hill – or mountain in Australia) on the north-side of the island, hitting us on the bow and causing us to ease the sheets for a time, to ensure we weren’t overpowered.

The day started with minimal sail set. A double reefed main, the small staysail, and a very small amount of jib … largely in anticipation of the conditions to come. Particularly once we had cleared the northern tip of Stewart Island and felt the full force of the southwest conditions.

Late afternoon yesterday, I notified Mary at Bluff Fisherman’s Radio of our location and intentions. Now, as we made our way out of the bay in the morning chill, I called again...

“Bluff Fisherman’s Radio, this is Chimere, do you copy?”, the reply was fast in coming …

“Chimere, good morning, Bluff Fisherman’s Radio, roger roger, good to hear from you, OVER”.

“Bluff Fisherman’s Radio, Chimere, we are leaving Port William now, headed for Preservation Inlet, 5 POB, hope to reach there by 7 or 8 this evening: over”.

“Roger that, Chimere, 5 POB, headed for Preservation Inlet. Still a bit windy out there as you would have heard in the report, I’ll ask around some of the fishermen out there on conditions and feed it back to you as you go along if I can, good as gold: OVER”,

“Many thanks, Mary. Be good to get some current observations. We’ll keep you informed along the way and when we arrive. Chimere OUT”.

For now, the task before us was to get from point A to point B, as quick, and as painlessly, as possible.

As predicted, the wind diminished throughout the day, and whilst the remnant SW swells of 4-6 metres, were not a problem, it was the 1-2 metre counter northeast swell, plus the irregular “chop” thrown in for good measure, leading to a painfully confused sea, that tested even the most seasoned stomachs, not to mention patience.

On the plus side … the sun was shining; the sea was as blue as blue can be and the albatrosses were even greater in number and soared even closer to the boat. Like the aerial equivalent of dolphins, appearing just to have fun, cruising and banking on the breeze, often just appearing to tip their wings and bellies on the crest of the waves as they passed across our stern and bow

Around 7:30pm I announced to Linda … my well-strapped-in-and-rugged-up cockpit companion for the day … “you know, we’ve been sailing 12 hours now”. Given the confused sea conditions, I’d opted to hand steer for most of the day, largely to relieve stress on the autohelm. Linda helped keep my strength up by handing me treats and drinks at regular intervals and at the same time did a very good job of “debris spotting”, as we made our way up and down over the waves.

Whilst our steel hull could withstand a direct hit from most solid objects … the recent torrential rains that had devastated Fiordland, had washed tons of logs and miscellaneous rubbish out to sea. Some of which Linda spotted, including a wooden park bench … just floating by … its solid legs occasionally bobbing above the waves.

Fortunately, we were fast closing-in on our intended destination. But the lack of daylight on arrival, was looming as our biggest concern as we made progress largely under motor, the wind having died away, leaving a sloppy, uncomfortable sea in its wake.

The sun seemed to be speeding up as it inched ever-closer to the horizon off to port, our course now curving us up the coast. Nearing the coast, the narrow entrance to Otago’s Retreat came into view on the far side of Puysegur Point. “Is that where we are going in?”, inquired Linda. A mix of concern and panic in her voice, as she suddenly observed the breaking white rollers hitting the rocks to our right … and left!

In my best “reassurance voice”, I repeated what I could remember from the Cruising Guide, “The entrance is behind the breaking sea, it opens up to an entrance, close to this Coal Island in front of us. We keep close to Coal Island, where it’s deeper, and then we’ll see the calm fiord behind”

The sails were now down, and it was time to make the final approach. Sure enough, the large southwest rollers breaking like a big day at Bells Beach, maybe a quarter of a mile to our right, were progressively diminishing in strength as we approached Coal Island. And whilst the breaking sea ahead of us, on the sheer rocky face of the island, was daunting, our eventual curve to starboard revealed the narrow entrance further on as a flat, distinct line, beyond which lay our mercifully calm anchorage for the night.

Holding our course through the centre of the opening, after maybe half a mile, we were now officially inside Fiordland. The sea was … to quote Kiwi-John ... “still-as bro” … with the last of the setting sun visible on the high peaks of the mountain range – one of the dozens of mountain ranges in these parts – in the distance ahead of us.

“The anchorage is to our left, in about 3-4 metres, with a float hanging in a tree”, called James, reading from the Fiordland Cruising Guide. The light was fading, and pretty soon, we were at anchor. The stillness of the surroundings, dare I say, “serenity”, the multi-green forest to the water’s edge and the blue-purple-coloured mountains far off, it was almost too much to take in all at once It certainly stood in stark contrast to much of the previous 13-14 hours of motion. The solid roar of the breaking seas at the entrance, a short distance off our stern, was a constant reminder of what we had left behind.

For now, it was time to tidy up, prepare dinner, enjoy a good glass of red and collapse into bed. There would be plenty of time over the next 10 days to soak in the Fiordland “vibe”.

Cruising New Zealand - Fiordland

About the Author

Rob Latimer is a cruising sailor and co-founder of the Australian aid group Medical Sailing Ministries Inc.

www msm org au, plus the Vanuatu oral health funding-support group Tooth Buddies www.toothbuddies.com.au

Since 2009, Rob, along with dozens of enthusiastic volunteers, has used his yacht, Chimere, to transport health teams around the remote islands of Vanuatu. More recently, he has fulfilled a life-long dream to sail around New Zealand.

About the Boat

After 16 years and a recent change in his circumstances, Rob has reluctantly put Chimere on the market.

Well-equipped for remote voyaging, Chimere has plenty of adventures left in her yet, as you can discover HERE:

https://yachthub.com/list/yachts-for-sale/used/sailmonohulls/jean-vignes-55-jean-vignes-55-cutter/278141

To view Chimere in action on her return to Australia from New Zealand in winter 2021, check out the video HERE.

The Rocna Mk II is a refinement of the original Rocna design, which has built up a reputation for reliable, quick setting and secure holding power over years of real-world experience and feedback from thousands of boaters Smith has also used patented technology shared with the Vulcan anchor, such as the “I+V™” shank, which helps make the Rocna Mk II the toughest of all Rocna anchors.

The innovative anchor features an all-new patented “roll-foil™” a sculpted variation of the original roll-bar, which features a series of uniquely shaped profiles designed to further assist the anchor’s critical self-righting behavior and help during setting for deeper penetration and additional holding power. The fluke also has had a major overhaul which optimises the original Rocna pattern for greater surface area and improved weight distribution.

“The original Rocna is a superb anchor and now well proven with great adoption – the question for me was always could we improve on it?”

Peter Smith, lifetime sailor, boatbuilder, and designer of the Rocna Anchors range

Niue Yacht Club Announcement

The Niue Yacht Club has a new web page www.niueisland.com/niue-yacht-club

The new website includes detailed information on arrival procedures and rules for visiting yachts, plus a new online mooring booking system, which can be paid for in advance.

There are also links to forms for Customs, Biosecurity and Health that can be downloaded and completed ready for arrival.

For our readers who are not familiar with the Niue Yacht Club, here is a brief history...

Niue Yacht Club is known as the “Biggest Little Yacht Club in the World - where no one owns a yacht or knows how to sail!”

The club dates back to the early 1970s when there was increasing demand from the international sailing community for Niue to be included as a stopover as part of their circumnavigation Niue was seen as an ideal stopover during the Coconut Run because of the predominant pattern of trade winds

But as the largest uplifted coral atoll in the world, mooring in Niue presented a whole raft of issues. The only possible mooring location was on the leeward side of the island where, although there was wharf access, there was also a fragile coral reef ecosystem that needed to be protected. The only solution was to establish a mooring field to provide security for vessels while protecting the coral below, but the Government of Niue did not have the resources, manpower or skills to implement this infrastructure at the time.

Fortunately, a large group of ex-pats recognized the need for the mooring field and inaugurated the Niue Yacht Club (Inc) as a voluntary association. Over the decades since many volunteers worked tirelessly pouring large concrete blocks to form the basis for safe mooring points Frequent cyclones over the years often set progress back, and in 2004, Cyclone Hera virtually dislodged or buried the concrete blocks that formed the basis of the field

Thanks to New Zealand Aid, through their contribution to the Niue Tourism Office and the Niue Government, the Niue Yacht Club received funding, and the mooring field was completed in circa 2010.

Niue Yacht Club’s International standing and reputation prompted the World ARC to include Niue on their circumnavigation route in 2012. This was a significant tribute to the many volunteers who contributed so much to establishing ... “The Biggest Little Yacht Club in the World.”

EastCoastMarina,ManlyBoatHarbour,Brisbane, Australiaoffer330securewaterberths, cateringforboatsupto18m.

AvarietyofpublictransportoptionsthatwilltakeyoudirectlytoBrisbaneCityandtheBrisbane InternationalAirportarewithinwalkingdistanceofthemarina

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Phone: +61 7 3393 3811

Located less than 10nm to the south of the Brisbane river mouth Manly Boat Harbour is the perfect base for visiting yachts and East Coast Marina has long been a favourite of the international yachting community. DOWN UNDER RALLY MEMBERS OFFER. *15% off casual marina berth rates

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Onroute,IplantospendtimecruisingFarNorthQueensland,TheNorthernTerritoryandthe Kimberley.IplantodepartfromCairnsassoonaspossibleandarrivesomewherebetween BroomeandtheMontebelloIslandsinSeptemberorOctoberthisyear.

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In ten years of cruising, I had never visited Platypus Bay, K'Gari (Fraser Island). We were always in a rush either up or down the coast. We started stopping at Platypus Bay a few years ago and last year we spent 5 days moving along it from Wathumba Creek to Coongul Creek.

It has beautiful white sand beaches and crystal clear water. In winter it has the highest concentration of Humpback whales on the coast. The whole bay is protected from southeast trades and the gently sloping shore makes for easy wading and swimming.

It fits easily into an itinerary. It is within a day's sail from the Sandy Straits, Bundaberg or Lady Elliot

Photo: G Luck

Platypus Bay

Woralie Creek

Photo: G Luck

Mackay Marina - Project Update

Mackay Marina is excited to inform you that construction is well underway on our nib wall. The nib wall will offer an enhanced level of protection to boat owners and marina users with construction expected to be completed by late July 2023.

The Nib Wall is part of a $10.5m resilience project and will help deliver increased protection for the marina, which is exposed to northerly waves during certain weather conditions.

Please be aware that there are now changed conditions when entering the marina entrance from the outer harbour (plan attached) so please take extra care when entering and departing the harbour. The construction area is marked with yellow special marks with a port marker on the outside western end of the construction.

All other operations are as normal, including our 24-hour fuel, casual marina berthing, restaurants, shipyard and trades.

Our marina office is contactable on 07 4955 6855 between 8:30am and 4:30pm 7 days, or email: reception@mackaymarina.com

LEARN MORE AT:

The car parking area in front of the new marina berths is open and marks the completion of the new marina finger project, which features 20 x 24m Berths with a 45m T- Head.

With more berths than ever before, we look forward to welcoming you at Bundaberg Port Marina!

globe for decades"

Bundaberg Port Marina

15-17 Marina Drive Port Bundaberg QLD 4670 AUSTRALIA

P: (+61) 7 4159 5066

E: info@bundabergportmarina.com.au

W: bundabergportmarina.com.au

"The most popular port of entry into Australia, Bundaberg Port Marina has been welcoming visitors from across the

DaveandHelenbroughtAustralianBoatingSupplies(ABS)about15yearsago whenitwaslocated atthefrontofGoldCoastCityMarina,partofthe GoldCoastMarinePrecinct.Sincethentheyexpandedto shedF31,andagainintoshedC17whichisrightnexttotheboomgatesandhassubstantiallyincreasedthe rangeofboatingandmarineproducts.

HavingraisedtheirfamilyinCanberra,theymovedtoQueensland,purchasedthechandleryandTropical SunsetaSeawind1160andboatingbecamealargepartofthefamily'slives.

FormanyyearsDave,Helen,Danielle,MichaelandEmmaholidayedandsailedbetweentheGoldCoastand farnorthQueenslandonTropicalSunset.Duringthistimetheytriedandtestedmanyoftheproducts currentlystockedintheshopandcanprovideadviceandknowledgebasedontheirownexperience.

The Hutcheson family and the staff at ABS have extensive boating experience and really do enjoy helping you with your chandlery needs.

We look forward to welcoming you IN-STORE

to Friday 8 AM – 4:30 PM

8:30 AM -12:00 PM, OR by phone or online when it suits you

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Sail the New Caledonia Lagoon with complete confidence & safety 220 personally surveyed anchorages, 240 confirmed GPS routes covering all islands plus 1000 high-resolution colour images GET READY TO GO!

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www downunderrally com/charts-flags

SOUTHERN QUEENSLAND CRUISING YACHT HAVEN

Located ON Brisbane's Moreton Bay, Scarborough Marina provides visiting yachts with easy access to the many anchorages and the islands of Moreton Bay, including Moreton Island and the Tangalooma Wrecks. The City of Brisbane and the Brisbane international airport are only 40mins away, with Public Transport right at our door. The suburb of Scarborough is home to families and retirees who form part of the safe & friendly community. With the convenience of waterfront Cafes, Clubs & Restaurants plus major shopping centres and medical services nearby and our popular weekend farmers & craft markets, Scarborough really is a home away from home!

Recognised by the international cruising community as the preferred destination when visiting the Brisbane Region.

Safe Enclosed Harbour

Protected from swell & unaffected by flooding.

Clean, Modern & Well Maintained Facilities

Modern Cruisers Lounge with TV and free WIFI

Electronic gated Access, with 24 Hour CCTV Monitoring

24 Hour Fuel Wharf

Full-Service Boatyard with 35 Tonne Travelift

On-Site Chandlery

Tangalooma Anchorage

Moreton Island

DISCOUNTS FOR DOWN UNDER RALLY MEMBERS

special thanks to our platinum partners

Nicholas Monsarrat