Important Jewelry - Oct 1 2020

IMPORTANT JEWELRY

OCTOBER 1 / DOYLE. com

IMPORTANT JEWELRY Including THE ROSALIND P. WALTER COLLECTION PART I Featuring ALEXANDER CALDER CARTIER+DISNEY FANCY YELLOW DIAMONDS And HARRY WINSTON (OCT 29)

AUCTION THURSDAY, OCTOBER 1, 2020 at NOON DOYLE. com

David Webb Gold and Molded Glass Bead Pendant-Brooch Necklace and Earclips.

Est: $12,000-18,000 The Rosalind P. Walter Collection

Alexander Calder Brass and Steel Spiral Pin, circa 1938. Est: $30,000-50,000 Silver Spiral Ring, circa 1949. Est: $20,000-30,000 Silver and Steel ‘RL’ Pin, circa 1949. Est: $15,000-20,000 From the Estate of Shirley K. Manley. Auction October 1

CALDER’S COILS Alexander Calder’s first forays into jewelry-making adorned the necks of his sister’s dolls in the early 1900s.

The artist spiraled back toward jewelry after 1933, including them in his process and producing the majority of his over 1,800 pieces later in life. The pieces from this period, often made for family and friends, are a purposeful and natural accompaniment to his art. They were not intended to be exclusive or expensive. If he charged for them at all, it was only about $25.

Calder was deeply inspired by the women in his life. Not only his wife and muse Louisa, but also his mother and friends such as Peggy Guggenheim, Georgia O’Keefe, Angela Huston and Mary Rockefeller, among others. He was not a jeweler, and therefore did not use some of the traditional tools of the trade. Nevertheless, he managed to achieve his desired result: bold, quirky designs that turned common materials into impractical forms to mirror the brave and strong women in his life.

Often formed out of a single piece of steel wire, such as you might find holding a coat on a rack, motifs of coils, spirals, waves, zigzags and hearts made their way from his anvil and hammer onto the necks, ears, hands and wrists of his adorned. The wedding ring he made for Louisa is a simple bronze spiral, an incredibly ancient symbol often associated with themes of fertility and eternity.

Calder’s lesser-known jewelry pieces evoke the same sense of whimsical freedom so recognizable in his paintings and sculptures. They have gradually transformed from mementos freely given to works of art in their own right, some achieving auction results over $100,000. More importantly, each piece is a reminder that the man who defined a movement was first and foremost a generous friend to many.

Works of art by Alexander Calder will be presented in Doyle’s upcoming auctions of Important Paintings on September 17 and Prints & Multiples on October 27.

OCT 1 / DOYLE. com

Buccellati

Two-Color Gold, Sapphire and Diamond Pendant-Earclips.

Est: $12,000-18,000

Gianmaria Buccellati Two-Color Gold and Diamond Pendant-Brooch with Chain Necklace.

Est: $10,000-15,000

The Original

ROSALIND P. WALTER

Rosie the Riveter

Cartier Diamond and Cultured Pearl Pendant-Earclips.

Est: $30,000-50,000

Tiffany & Co. Double Strand Cultured Pearl, Ruby and Diamond Flower Necklace.

Est: $20,000-30,000

David Webb Carved Colored Stone and Diamond ‘Tutti Frutti’ Bracelet.

Est: $15,000-20,000

Doyle is honored to present at auction the exceptional and extensive jewelry collection assembled by Rosalind P. Walter (1924-2020), the original “Rosie the Riveter” and a generous benefactor of PBS. Raised in a refined family with homes on Long Island and Fairfield, Connecticut, the former Rosalind Palmer joined millions of women in supporting the war effort by entering the workforce during WWII. Known by friends as Roz, she worked the night shift as a riveter at the Vought Aircraft Company in Stratford, Connecticut.

Society chronicler Igor Cassini wrote about her in his popular “Cholly Knickerbocker” column, which in turn inspired the hit 1942 song, “Rosie the Riveter”.

David Webb Tahitian Black South Sea Cultured Pearl and Diamond Maltese Cross Pendant Clip-Brooch.

Est: $15,000-20,000

Written by Redd Evans and John Jacob Loeb and popularized by the Four Vagabonds, “Rosie the Riveter” documented the home-front campaign that laid the groundwork for the women’s rights movement of the late 20th century.

OCT 1 / DOYLE. com

Graff Colored Diamond and Diamond Pendant-Earclips.

Est: $15,000-20,000 Colored Diamond and Diamond Necklace.

Est: $50,000-70,000

Tiffany & Co., Schlumberger Citrine and Diamond ‘Bird on a Rock’ Brooch.

Est: $12,000-18,000

Van Cleef & Arpels

Van Cleef & Arpels

Cultured Pearl and Diamond Earclips.

Est: $10,000-15,000

Diamond and Colored Diamond Camelia Earclips.

Est: $15,000-20,000

Diamond Necklace.

Est: $50,000-70,000

THE ROSALIND P. WALTER COLLECTION PART I

Diamond and Colored Diamond Camelia Clip Brooch.

Est: $30,000-50,000

All the day long whether rain or shine she’s a part of the assembly line She’s making history, working for victory — Rosie, brrrrr, the Riveter

The song cemented her name in history, while other women went on to model for the well-known depictions of Rosie the Riveter by Norman Rockwell and J. Howard Miller.

Ms. Walter was not finished inspiring the next generation after the war. In later years, she devoted herself to philanthropy with a focus on public broadcasting. She was one of PBS’s principal benefactors, supporting programming like “Great Performances,” “American Masters,” and “PBS NewsHour.” She also became the largest individual supporter of WNET New York, helping underwrite 67 shows or series over forty years.

Her wartime efforts laid the groundwork for Ms. Walter’s lifelong commitment to public media and education. Having sacrificed the opportunity to attend college to serve her country, she found public television documentaries helped fill in the gaps of her education. Ms. Walter and her second husband, Henry Glendon Walter Jr., were benefactors of the American Museum of Natural History, the Pierpont Morgan Library and Long Island University, among others.

Van Cleef & Arpels White Coral and Diamond ‘Rose de Noel’ Earclips.

Est: $8,000-12,000

Ms. Walter’s jewelry collection includes quintessential designs by such storied makers as Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Tiffany & Co., Buccellati, Graff and David Webb. Much like the woman herself, these pieces are iconic, timeless and classic.

Part II of The Rosalind P. Walter Collection will be offered in the auction of Fine Jewelry on October 21

OCT 1 / DOYLE. com

Cartier, France Gold and Diamond Panthère Necklace.

Est: $30,000-50,000

David Webb Baroque South Sea Cultured Pearl and Diamond Necklace.

Est: $15,000-20,000

Mario Buccellati Gold and Turquoise Necklace.

Est: $8,000-12,000

Tony Duquette Gold, Coral, Turquoise, Amethyst and Peridot Necklace.

Est: $6,000-8,000

THE ROSALIND P. WALTER COLLECTION PART I

David Webb Hammered Gold, Carved Jade and Diamond Pendant-Earclips.

Est: $5,000-7,000 Gold, Platinum, Enamel, Carved Jade and Diamond Pendant-Necklace.

Est: $12,000-18,000 Gold, Platinum, Enamel, Carved Jade and Diamond Bracelet.

Est: $12,000-18,000

OCT 1 / DOYLE. com

In the 1930s and 40s the beloved world of Disney collided with the legendary Parisian jewelry house of Cartier. The result of this happy collaboration was imaginative jewelry that referenced the classic Disney films we know and love - princesses finding true love, fairies granting wishes - and the chance to be part of the fantasy once more.

Disney characters could live in homes across America not just as toys, but as apparel, accessories, and even jewelry. As these collaborations revealed themselves to be enormously profitable, more companies became interested in working with Disney Productions. The success of the merchandising allowed Walt Disney to focus on his first love: animated films.

Like many of our favorite fictional characters, brothers Roy O. and Walt Disney rose to prominence from humble beginnings. In the 1920s, the behemoth we know today as The Walt Disney Company was a young enterprise very much in need of revenue. They began mass-producing Mickey and Minnie Mouse figurines with the George Borgfeldt manufacturing house in New York in 1929. Though the toys brought Disney much-needed income, Walt and his brother soon began to dream of higher-quality products stamped with the Disney name. Enter Herman “Kay” Kamen, whom the duo met in 1932. Kamen secured the licensing agreement for all Disney merchandising, a contract his firm would hold for over two decades, and quickly monetized Mickey Mouse’s image to aid the cash-strapped company.

On December 21, 1937, Walt Disney Productions premiered its first animated feature film, Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs. To celebrate the release of the film, Cartier created a limited-edition gold and enamel charm bracelet featuring the iconic characters sold exclusively at Cartier in New York, Paris and London. On the night of the premiere screening at the Carthay Circle Theater, the bracelet was advertised in the evening’s program for a retail price of $100. Lilian Disney, the beloved wife of Walt Disney, was photographed wearing the Cartier charm bracelet that very night — an image that has inspired generations of Disney jewelry collectors.

One of Kamen’s first projects for Disney was a Mickey Mouse watch produced by Ingersoll-Waterbury Clock Company. The success of the product proved that

DOYLE AUCTIONEERS & APPRAISERS

The film was a worldwide success, both critically and in terms of its marketing campaign. With the money made from Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs merchandise, Walt was able to build a new state-ofthe-art studio in Burbank, California, where even bigger dreams were about to come true.

On February 7, 1940, Walt Disney Productions released Pinocchio, their second animated feature film. This time they opted to premiere the film at the Center Theater in Radio City. A Cartier advertisement with an exclusive Pinocchio charm bracelet and clips were featured centrally in the program.

These rare-to-market bracelets present an exciting opportunity for any Cartier or Disney collector to own their own piece of Disney’s wonderful world. Jewelry is and can make us feel like we are manifesting our sweetest dreams. Now, you can make your dreams come true.

CARTIER, Disney Gold and Enamel ‘Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs’ Charm Bracelet, Signed Cartier, W.D.ENT. for Walt Disney Enterprises, c. 1938.

Est: $20,000-40,000. CARTIER, Disney Gold and Enamel ‘Pinocchio’ Charm Bracelet, Signed Cartier, W.D.P for Walt Disney Productions, c. 1940.

Est: $20,000-40,000. AUCTION October 1

SPOTLIGHT ON

YELLOW DIAMONDS Fancy-color diamonds are the rarest of the rare, but yellow diamonds still maintain an approachable air – and play the part of a girl’s best friend even better because of it. Colored by the inclusions of trace levels of nitrogen in the crystal structure, yellow diamonds can vary in intensity and hue. Generally speaking, the more intense the yellow color, the more rare and valuable. This exceptional pair of Platinum, South Sea Cultured Pearl and Fancy Intense Yellow Diamond and Diamond earrings accomplishes a remarkable feat: finding two matching Fancy Intense Yellow diamonds of similar carat weight (totaling 18.50 cts.!) and dimensions. Elegantly set with accents of colorless diamonds and topped by two stunning pearls, these earrings yield an impressive and classic look.

Platinum South Sea Cultured Pearl, Fancy Intense Yellow Diamond and Diamond Earrings, Approx. 18.50 cts., Natural Color, VVS1 and VS1 clarity.

Est: $150,000-250,000. Property of an Elegant Lady AUCTION October 1

Our October 29 Important Jewelry Auction features a Dazzling Array of Harry Winston Designs!

Harry Winston Platinum and Diamond Necklace. Est: $25,000-35,000 Platinum and Diamond Cluster Earclips. Est: $25,000-35,000 Kashmir Sapphire and Diamond Ring, Approx 6.63 cts., Est: $100,000-150,000 Platinum and Diamond Pendant-Earclips. Est: $25,000-35,000 From the Estates of a Prominent French-American Couple AUCTION October 29

We Invite You to Auction!

Our team of Specialists welcome the opportunity to share their vast expertise and experience with you. They are available by telephone, email and even videochat to provide free auction estimates in all categories. Discover the value of your collection!

Ann Limer Lange, G.G. Senior Vice President Executive Director, Jewelry 212-427-4141 ext 221 Ann.Lange@ Doyle.com

Nan Summerfield, G.G. Senior Vice President Director, California 310-276-6616 Nan.Summerfield@ Doyle.com

Collin Albertsson Senior Vice President Director, Florida 561-322-6795 Collin.Albertsson@ Doyle.com

Kevin Zavian Senior Specialist 212-427-4141 ext 262 Jewelry@ Doyle.com

Emily Marchick, G.G. Vice President Appraiser, California 310-276-6616 Emily.Marchick@ Doyle.com

Katherine Van Dell, G.G. Vice President, Florida 215-847-6146 Katherine.VanDell@ Doyle.com

Jenny Pitman, G.G. Business Development 212-427-4141 ext 208 Jenny.Pitman@ Doyle.com

Hilary Pitts, G.G. North Carolina 704-582-2258 Hilary.Pitts@ Doyle.com

Martha Garcia, F.G.A. Vice President, Appraiser 212-427-4141 ext 262 Martha.Garcia@ Doyle.com

Laura Chambers Administrator 212-427-4141 ext 210 Laura.Chambers@ Doyle.com

David Webb Ram’s Head Bracelet.

Est: $12,000-18,000.

From a Newport Beach Matriarch AUCTION October 1

AUCTIONEERS & APPRAISERS 175 EAST 87TH STREET NEW YORK, NY 10128

E E L L Y OY M DDO M O C C ..