The Plate 2015 - The Virginia Gazette, Tidewater Review, Daily Press by Daily Press Media Group

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Supplement to The Virginia Gazette Daily Press â&#x20AC;˘ Tidewater Review June 2015

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Peking’s Kung Pao Chicken Courtesy of Peking Restaurant - Williamsburg INGREDIENTS

DIRECTIONS

1 lb. ½ lb.

Boil zucchini in pot of water for 2-3 minutes, drain set aside.

Zucchini (cut into cubes) boneless chicken thigh meat (cut into cubes) 2 oz. peanuts ½ tsp. chopped green onion ½ tsp. fresh minced ginger ½ tsp. minced garlic 1 tsp. cooking wine 1 tsp. soy bean sauce ½ tsp. Golden Label soy sauce ½ tsp. double black soy sauce or 1 tsp. Kikoman soy sauce 1 tsp. oyster sauce 2 tbsp. hoisin sauce 1 tsp. sugar 1 tsp. spicy dried red pepper 3 tbsp. water 1 tbsp. vegetable oil

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Heat oil in large wok/skillet on medium/high heat, add chicken. Stir-fry until no longer pink in center, roughly 3-5 minutes. Then remove chicken from heat, set aside. Add green onion, garlic, red peppers and ginger to wok, stir, then add remaining sauces, and water. Stir well and reduce until sauce starts to thicken. Return chicken to wok, toss until chicken is well coated. Return zucchini and stir to wok. Heat thoroughly. Sprinkle peanuts over the top. Serve with rice!

JUNE 2015 • THE PLATE

CONTENTS 4 Peking’s Kung Pao Chicken recipe 5 Craft 60 Citrus Shrimp Tacos recipe 8 What’s cooking in 2015? 12 Fire starters 14 Tapping into tapenade 16 Creating an outdoor living space 18 Foodie events

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THE VIRGINIA GAZETTE 216 Ironbound Road Williamsburg, VA 23188 Phone 757-220-1736 Fax 757-220-1766 www.vagazette.com Layout & Design LouAnne M. Sexton Design Support Patrice Byrd • Peter Dewey Kathy Sturgeon • Cathy Wall Sandy Xander

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What’s cooking in 2015? Pickled eats, kitchen coaches, artisan foods and stronger flavors By Judy Hevrdejs Tribune Newspapers

Food forecasters and culinary prognosticators have spoken. Bored by too-sweet eats? Sour foods — pickled and fermented — are moving onto the plate to save our taste buds in 2015, says J. Walter Thompson, the marketing communication folks. Bitter is big, too, with darker coffees, deeper chocolates and cruciferous veggies joining the mix, Technomic’s food industry researchers say. Speaking of veggies, you may soon put more hybrid versions on your shopping list, such as Kalettes (kale plus Brussels sprouts) or broccoflower, a marriage of — if you have to ask, you don’t know your vegetables. See Page 10 PHOTO BY BILL HOGAN/TRIBUNE NEWSPAPERS

Fermented foods will continue to gain ground with mainstream shoppers, food marketing experts say.

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If you’re grumbling, “That doesn’t sound like real food,” get this: Expect more foods that look and taste like the real thing but aren’t, i.e. eggless Just Mayo from Hampton Creek Foods and tomato sushi from San Francisco chef James Corwell, say the JWT folks. And you may want to make room next to the food processor and juicer in your kitchen: 3-D food printers geared to the home cook are on the horizon, reports online news service Food Navigator-USA. Here’s what savvy food folks say we’ll be cooking and eating in 2015: Hybrid veggies: You’ll hear a lot about them, “but they’re going to have a very small presence in our lives,” says Brian Wansink, director of Cornell University’s Food and Brand Lab THINKSTOCK PHOTO and author of “Slim by Design: Mindless Broccoflower is a hybrid vegetable that is a cross between broccoli and cauliflower, Eating Solutions for two vegetables that are actually so Everyday Life.” “They closely related that they can be easily cross-pollinated. can’t be produced on

the scale that will make them affordable to most of us, and their health benefits are marginal compared to just taking broccoli or kale or broccoli and kale separately. ... (But) anything that makes vegetables more exciting is good.” Fermented food: “We’re seeing it go more mainstream, from sauerkraut to using kombucha or kimchee. These products are used not just as a condiment but rather as the main course,” says SupermarketGuru’s Phil Lempert, a food marketing expert. “While they’ve been out there, there will be an increased focus where people are going to understand that it can aid digestion.” Kitchen mentors: Cooking schools have evolved. “It’s more about having people who can empower you, saying, ‘Here’s why you use the shallot,’ and not somebody just saying, ‘Use a shallot, chop it up and whatever else,’” Lempert says. “It’s a much more holistic approach to cooking foods.” Spice it up: New spices and sauces turn common eats exotic. Expect companies to develop Shake ‘N Bake-type bag mixes for, say, green beans or cauliflower, Wansink says. “It’s also what we can do as cooks” — such as he does, shaking veggies in a bag with seasonings before roasting them. Sriracha, the new ketchup? Expect more flavors, fruits and vegetables unique to Latin America, but expect Asian flavors (to go with our ramen appetite?) in the home mix as well, says Darren Seifer, a food and beverage industry analyst with NPD Group, a market research company. Their “kitchen audit” found Sriracha in 9 percent of homes. “However, when you look at homes where the head of household is younger than 35, about 16 percent have

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Sriracha. ... It’s now a household staple.” Call it combo cooking: Convenience foods once meant a frozen dinner or entree, trimmed prep, almostzero cleanup. Evidence shows that meaning is shifting to include an element of freshness, Seifer says. “Now it’s ‘How can I achieve freshness while still SCOTT OLSON/GETTY-AFP getting out of the kitchen in a Sriracha’s popularity continues short amount of time?’” to grow, especially among the Millennials using fresh items 35 and under set. doesn’t mean “they want to be or are even becoming home chefs by any stretch of the imagination.” It does mean they may reach for liquid eggs (cuts cracking time), then add their own flavorings. Think craft foods: Craft beer helped some big brewers, “whether they made it up, bought it, acquired it, whatever,” says Lempert — for example, Anheuser-Busch’s purchase of Goose Island Beer Co. “We’re starting to see the same thing happen in food. ... We’re going to see a lot more locally produced, limited distribution brands where they finally realize that every product that they make doesn’t have to be bought by everybody in America.”

Same-day delivery: Joining Peapod and Amazon Fresh, “Google Express is putting every food retailer in the same-day delivery business,” Lempert says. That, in turn, changes how we buy food. “We’re not going into a supermarket 2.2 times a week.” Smoked foods: Restaurants and bars are already doing it. “Smoked flavor makes foods more complex,” Lempert says. Smoked cocktails, butters, vegetables and even products that have been on the shelf for TRIBUNE NEWSPAPERS a while (fire-roasted tomatoes) Smoke as an ingredient “are going to rise dramatically in has moved from bars to homes. the next year,” he says. Clear the counters: “People are going to start understanding that how they set up their kitchen, how they serve food and where they place food is the biggest determinant of how healthy they eat,” Wansink says. “Small adjustments — getting all food off the counter and only having a fruit bowl on — will do more to influence how people eat in 2015 than any other thing.”

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How to build flavor in your cooking with a variety of heat-makers

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FIRE

STARTERS By Judy Hevrdejs Tribune Newspapers

Playing with fire in the kitchen is definitely dangerous. But it can also be delicious – if you learn to play with a few culinary heat-makers. It involves working with a variety of spicy, pungent or tart foods – from arugula and chilies to garlic, ginger, wasabi and Worcestershire sauce – that can spark a reaction in your mouth, throat and nose that may smolder, flame or tingle pleasantly. Combining such foods in a dish and doing it well can be a challenge, though, for it goes beyond degrees Fahrenheit, Scoville scores and chest-thumping boasts. “Here in America, we tend to want degrees of heat. It’s more of a macho I-can-eathotter-than-you, and it tends to overwhelm a lot of the other flavors in a dish,” says chef William Phillips at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y. “You don’t want to dominate the main item with heat or spices. You want to be able to taste all of the ingredients.” Chef and cookbook author Marcus Samuelsson might agree. “When people say they’re going to make spicy food, what they don’t understand is that it’s a song and dance,” he says. “Its’ a balance.” Phillips calls it “the rhythm of flavor.” And both chefs say it involves knowing how piquant foods affect your senses, comple-

ment other ingredients and can be layered to let all the elements shine. Paul Wise knows exactly what those tart, spice and pungent foods will do when you sniff them or they land in your mouth. Wise, an associate member at the Monell Chemical Senses Center in Philadelphia, says compounds in them will stimulate the nerve ending (receptors) in your mouth and throat, on your tongue and in your nose. Scientists call this sensation chemethesis. We like his term: “an electric prickle.” Three of the most common players in food and beverages are: cool receptor (think mint), a hot chili receptor, and “a kind of general irritant receptor” that can be sensitive to hot mustard, wasabi, horseradish and cinnamon, usually depending on the concentration. “They’re some of the same nerve endings that give us sensitivity to heat and cold and pain,” says Wise. “And there are some overlapping sets of nerves that are involved.” Even in the nose? “The nose tends to be pretty sensitive,” says Wise. Phillips agrees: “Things like horseradish and wasabi are very quick thrill as opposed to long misery.” So how do you build a well-balanced fire? Consider all elements in a dish. Chili pepper’s capsaicin and fresh ginger’s gingerol will both amp up the pungent power of a dish. And don’t ignore ingredients in

condiments; Sriracha’s sugar and garlic, for example, and the vinegar in many hot pepper sauces. “People tend to throw all the Tabasco in at the end,” says Phillips, an institute associate professor of culinary arts and unofficial chili pepper coach. “It’s incredibly acidic, so it can be used as a tool in getting the layers of flavor.” But give it time with other ingredients in the cooking pot. “Vinegar and lime will always help if a dish is muddy,” says Samuelsson. Cooking also can tame some fire. “Chilies will go from sharp to nutty to buttery,” says Samuelsson, who has restaurants across the U.S. and in Sweden. “That doesn’t happen when you just use it straight. That’s why I rarely use raw garlic or raw chili.” Toasting spices or sautéing ginger, garlic or onions in oil is “absolutely going to knock down the pungency,” Phillips adds, noting that you can also diminish the heat of chili pepper by removing its ribs and seeds.

“When you create a spicy food you also have to have an offsetter, and that could be rice, it could be cucumber,” says Samuelsson. Or simply serve fiery elements – sauces, chopped fresh chilies, pickled ginger – alongside dishes to let folks fire up their own servings. Should fire erupt in your mouth, Wise advises: “Pop an ice cube in there. It will really tamp it down fast.”

Piri piri Prep: 10 minutes Makes: 1 cup Adapted from chef Marcus Samuelsson’s “The Soul of a New Cuisine” (Wiley, $40), this sauce is used at the table to season shellfish, fish and chicken. Piri piri is the Swahili term for the hot chili and the national dish of Mozambique. Let mixture mellow slightly before

using; the flavors will meld. 8 red bird’s-eye chilies (aka Thai chilies), seeds and ribs removed, chopped ½ cup fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon each: chopped cilantro, chopped parsley 2 garlic cloves ½ cup olive oil Combine chilies, lemon juice, cilantro, parsley and garlic in a blender, puree until smooth. With the blender running, add the oil in a slow, steady stream. Blend until well combined. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. Nutrition information per tablespoon: 64 calories, 7 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 1 g carbohydrates, 0 g protein, 1 mg sodium, 0 g fiber

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Tapping into tapenade 7 delicious things to do with the oh-so-easy-to-make olive spread By James P. DeWan

Why you need to learn this

Tribune Newspapers

Tapenade may be the easiest thing you’ll ever make, this side of toast. Back in the day, it required loads of exhausting grinding with a mortar and pestle. Nowadays, the most taxing aspect is pushing the “On” button on your food processor. In fact, you can probably just sit back and watch TV while your chimp butler makes it for you. You do have a chimp butler, don’t you?

Tapenade, the robustly flavored olive condiment from our friends in Provence, France, is gaining popularity in these United States. As well it should. Once you see how easy it is, and more importantly, how versatile it is as a flavoring ingredient, you’ll want to keep a jar of it in your fridge at all times.

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The steps you take Like the mighty Corn Palace of Mitchell, S.D., tapenade is one of those things that’s greater than the sum of its parts. And that’s saying something, because every one of its parts is super flavorful on its own. Olives, garlic, capers, anchovies — any one of these is its own little happy mouth party. Together, they’re the gustatory embodiment of a Batman graphic: Kapow! Now, I mentioned that tapenade’s construction is simply a matter of pulsing the ingredients in a food processor. One little thing: Some people like their tapenade chunky with whole or nearly whole capers and visible pieces of olive. Others like it whirred to silky smoothness. There’s no right or wrong, of course, just personal preference. I suggest starting chunky and seeing how you like it. You can always process it a little more to smooth it out. Speaking of no right or wrong, as you can imagine, there are exactly three gazillion and seven recipes for tapenade. If you’re an old hand in the kitchen, I’ll bet you could make up a recipe on the spot that would be every bit as good as what I’m about to give you. Just keep in mind that olives are the main ingredients, so you’ll use a lot of them versus relatively smaller amounts of capers, garlic and anchovies, the latter two of which are particularly prone to overpowering. Here’s my base recipe: 8 ounces pitted olives 2 garlic cloves 2 ounces capers (a little over 1/3 cup, packed) 3 anchovy fillets 3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice Extras: You could also add a splash of brandy, a spoonful of Dijon mustard, some fresh or dried herbs like thyme, savory or herbes de Provence. Some people even add canned tuna to the mix. Throw everything in the food processor and give it a buzz. Done.

Now what? Well, the obvious thing is to slather spoonfuls of tapenade over slices of good, crusty bread, like a well-made baguette.

Here are a few more ideas, just to convince you to make it in case you still have doubts. Pizza: This may sound crazy, but, trust me, it’s delicious. Especially if you’re making homemade pizza, just spread some tomato sauce over the dough, spoon some tapenade (chunky is better for this, I think) over and sprinkle with julienned red onion. Pasta: Same as pizza. Stir some tapenade into your red sauce (the plainer, the better, so the flavors of the tapenade aren’t lost) and toss with hot noodles. Mayonnaise: If you’ve ever had a muffuletta, you know that olives are great on sandwiches. Mixing some tapenade in with the mayo is a simple way of having a muffuletta-style experience without having to travel to its native New Orleans. Salads 1: And speaking of sandwiches, all of your sandwich salads, like tuna salad, chicken salad, egg salad, they’d all benefit from a spoonful of tapenade stirred in. Or, save yourself the trouble and use the tapenade mayo from above when you make the salad in the first place. Salads 2: And speaking of salads, think of any kind of non-sandwich salad — green salad, pasta salad, potato salad — and just before you dress it, stir some tapenade into the dressing, whether it’s mayo or a vinaigrette. Eggs: Tapenade and eggs are a great combo in just about any form. Just remember that the tapenade is so powerful, a little goes a long way. Smear some across the interior side of your omelet just before folding or stir it into your eggs before scrambling. For over-easy eggs, just after you crack your egg into the pan, spoon a little tapenade into the still liquid whites. When you flip the egg, the tapenade gets cooked in. Compound butter: Mix softened butter with tapenade. Place it on a sheet of plastic wrap or parchment and roll it out into a 1- to 2-inch thick log and chill to harden. Cut slices to set on top of grilled or seared meats or fish. The heat from the meat will melt the butter, creating a delicious sauce as it mixes with the juices from the meat. James P. DeWan is a culinary instructor at Kendall College in Chicago. THINKSTOCK PHOTO ON PREVIOUS PAGE

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Creating an outdoor living space

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Metro Editorial Outdoor living spaces have become increasingly popular over the last several years. The home improvement boom has shown many homeowners just how easy it can be to transform a home into a private sanctuary that caters to the personalities of the home’s residents. Outdoor living areas have become an extension of the home’s interior, with many homeowners creating outdoor living rooms and dining areas so they can relax and eat meals outside just as they do indoors. But homeowners thinking of creating outdoor living spaces should consider a few tricks of the trade before beginning their projects.

THE PLATE • JUNE 2015

• Strategically place the space. Property often dictates where the outdoor living space will go, but it helps to keep in mind that the outdoor space is more likely to be used if it’s easily accessible from the inside of the home. For instance, if residents need to walk out the front door to access an outdoor living space in the backyard, then residents might find the area is too inconveniently located and they won’t make the most of the space. Whenever possible, plan the outdoor living space so it’s easily accessible from the home’s interior, preferably from the kitchen so it will be easier to carry meals outdoors when dining outside. • Emphasize comfort. Many homeowners look at their outdoor living areas as places to kick their feet up and relax, so

comfort should take precedence when planning the space. Forgo the plastic patio chairs of yesteryear for furniture that’s more sturdy and roomy so you won’t feel cramped or sweaty on warm summer evenings and afternoons. In addition, don’t forget to shade the area. Some homeowners choose to build pergolas, but oftentimes an umbrella or two can do the trick at a fraction of the cost. If the outdoor living area is near trees, they might provide sufficient shade from the often blistering summer sun. But keep a few umbrellas in the garage just in case. • Illuminate the area. Summer nights spent relaxing in the outdoor living area make for great memories. But such nights are nearly impossible if the area doesn’t have some lighting. Tiki torches might do the trick for some, while others who want to avoid giving their outdoor area a luau feel might prefer solar-powered accent lights, which won’t require any wiring. If your backyard attracts its fair share of insects, look for insectrepelling lights or lamps. Whatever your preference, don’t forget to have some lighting so those summer evenings spent under the sky don’t have to end when the sun goes down. • Keep the design consistent with your home. In addition to providing an outdoor respite from the daily grind, an outdoor living space can also increase a home’s resale value. However, homeowners who have one eye on R&R and the other on resale value should keep the design of their outdoor living space consistent with their home. One of the goals when designing an outdoor living space should be to create a seamless transition from the home’s interior to its exterior. The best way to do that is to keep the designs of both living spaces consistent. • Don’t forget the fire pit. A fire pit provides a great focal point for an outdoor living area. Instead of sitting at the dinner table, families and friends can gather around the fire pit and relax with some s’mores and share stories. But even

THINKSTOCK PHOTO

when guests aren’t coming over, a fire pit makes for a great place to relax and let the time go by. With more and more homeowners transforming their homes into their own

private sanctuaries, outdoor living spaces continue to grow in popularity. By employing a few simple tricks of the trade, homeowners can create the outdoor areas of their dreams.

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Foodie Events Bayou Boogaloo & Cajun Food Festival Where: Town Point Park, 101 Waterside Drive, Norfolk When: June 19-20, noon-10 p.m.; June 21, noon-6 p.m. Details: Norfolk’s annual “second line” with New Orleans’ special spirit and unique culture takes place in Town Point Park on the downtown Norfolk, Virginia Waterfront. The Annual Bayou Boogaloo & Cajun Food Festival delivers the heart and soul of Louisiana to visitors of Town Point Park in true Cajun style. From New Orleans to Norfolk, two stages featuring nation recording artist provide musical entertainment for the weekend. Also on hand will be many local New Orleans musicians and artist who are sure to get your hands clapping, feet two-steppin’ and heart pumping throughout the weekend. The Arts Market of New Orleans returns and brings with it talent, unique artistry and the culture of Louisiana! The Arts Council of New Orleans and Norfolk Festevents hand-pick the most unique and one-of-a-kind artist from Louisiana to share their stories, culture, and craft. This year, over 24 artist in various mediums including art, jewelry, and sculpture will be on site displaying their works.

Admission: A three-day advance ticket is $20. Single day admission is $10 in advance or at the gate. Children 12 and younger are free. Information: festevents.org

Williamsburg Farmers Market Where: Merchants Square, 402 West Duke of Gloucester between Boundary & Henry Streets, in Williamsburg When: Regular Season - Saturdays, April through October, 8 a.m.- noon Details: Producers of locally grown: produce, seafood, cut flowers, organic vegetables, herbs, baked goods, pasture-raised meats, cheeses, herbal and goat’s milk soap, fresh bread, honey and eggs. Admission: Free Information: 757-259-3768 or williamsburgfarmersmarket.com

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Details: Leave the grilling to us on the 4th of July and bring your family and friends down to Town Point Park for the 33rd Annual Fourth of July Great American Picnic & Fireworks. Enjoy free live entertainment and fireworks along the Downtown Norfolk Waterfront on Saturday, July 4th. We will be grilling traditional all American fare with all the fixin’s and much more. Admission: Free Information: festevents.org

Virginia Jerk Fest Where: Virginia Beach Sports Complex, 2181 Landstown Rd., Virginia Beach When: Saturday, July 25, noon-10 p.m. Details: Jerk Fest is one of the largest Caribbean themed food/ music festivals throughout the United States of America. The aroma of jerk cuisines (age old method of cooking) and various tasty ethnic foods (rice and peas, roti with curry potatoes and channa (chick peas), stew fish or chicken, oxtails, etc.) will excite your pallet to want and want and want for more! Admission: Adults $10; Children 6-12 $5; Children under 5 Free. Discount package for a group of four adults $35. Information: virginiajerkfest.com

Southern Fried Festival Where: Langley Speedway, 3165 N. Armistead Ave., Hampton When: Saturday, August 22, 11 a.m.-9 p.m;

Sunday, August 23, 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Details: The Southern Fried Festival will be bigger and better than ever this year at Langley Speedway in Hampton, VA. Part Kansas City Barbeque Society sanctioned barbeque competition, part VACar Show and part live music- this event has it all! The VA Car Show features the area’s best Classics, Customs, Pre-War Era, Vintage, Restored Classics, Pro Street Cars, Modern & Vintage Race Cars, Classic & Vintage Trucks and Vintage and Restored Custom Motorcycles. Admission: Adults $15; Children 6-12 $8; Military $10; Adult weekend pass $20. Information: vacarshow.com/southern-fried-festival.html

Williamsburg International Food & Arts Festival benefiting Literacy for Life Where: William & Mary School of Education, 301 Monticello Ave., Williamsburg When: Saturday, September 19 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Details: Come join international artists, vendors and entertainment for a day of family fun! Try food from around the world and enjoy the different cultures represented in the Greater Williamsburg area. The Williamsburg Food and Arts Festival benefits Literacy for Life, providing free literacy and ESL services to the community for 40 years. Information: 757-221-3325

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CONSIDER THE

CUBANO A sandwich layerd with tradition and memories

By Bill Daley Tribune Newspapers

A Cuban sandwich is the stuff of which food memories are made. I still remember my first — enjoyed nearly 30 years ago at a small restaurant on Key Biscayne off the Miami coast. It was savory, it was crusty, it was delicious and it hit the spot. What is a Cuban sandwich? Think of it like a golden, crispy submarine sandwich but without the lettuce, tomato or other trimmings. Most recipes call for sliced ham, roast pork with a citrusy marinade (called mojo) and Swiss cheese layered in a loaf of Cuban bread, then garnished with pickles and mustard. The sandwich is heated in a sandwich press until warm and crusty, then sliced diagonally. Anything beyond that and you risk the ire of traditionalists who have a firm view of what makes a sandwich Cubano — and what does not. Authenticity matters. Raquel Rabade Roque, the Miami-based author of “The Cuban Kitchen,” talks of the importance of keeping traditions and maintaining the purity of the Cuban sandwich. It’s fairly simple to put together actually, but maybe the best route is just to enjoy the Cuban sandwich however you can make it or wherever you can find it. Although Roque warns against heating and pressing the Cuban sandwich in a panini grill — the true sandwich doesn’t sport grill marks — not everyone has access to the special sandwich press used in restaurants. The authors of “Three Guys from Miami Cook Cuban,” brothers-in-law Glenn Lindgren, Raul Musibay and Jorge Castillo, report good results warming the sandwiches on a griddle using a bacon press or heavy cast-iron pan to compress the Cuban. Cuban sandwiches should, ideally, be made on Cuban bread, but you can use a French bread or crusty sub-type loaf. “Ideally, you need a loaf that is crusty on the outside and soft on the inside,” Lindgren notes. Mojo-marinated roast pork can be found at some ethnic and specialty markets, even some supermarket delis. But do consider marinating and roasting the pork yourself. It’s easy, and you can make a dinner or two out of the meat (reserving some leftovers for the sandwiches). The biggest challenge to making the marinade is finding sour oranges, but you can use a mix of citrus to achieve the desired tang. Use the mojo not just on pork but beef, fish and chicken. My aunt in Miami would even marinate her Thanksgiving turkey in it. However you make it, think of the Cuban sandwich as more of a snack, not part of a formal meal. “(It’s) perfect for a late breakfast or late dinner with the customary cafe con leche (coffee and milk),” Roque wrote in an email. “Here in Miami, where we eat Cuban 24/7, the sandwich Cubano is just part of a daily ritual,” she added. “A sandwich Cubano, a croqueta and a Cuban coffee gets us all going!” PHOTOS BY ZBIGNIEW BZDAK/TRIBUNE NEWSPAPERS; CORRINE KOZLAK/FOOD STYLING

The classic Cuban sandwich calls for sliced ham, roast pork with a citrusy marinade and Swiss cheese. “Super-simple but super, super good,” says cookbook author Raquel Rabade Roque.

THE PLATE • JUNE 2015

Cuban sandwich Prep: 5 minutes Cook: 4 minutes Makes: 1 sandwich From “The Cuban Kitchen” by Raquel Rabade Roque. If Cuban bread is not available, consider French bread or another crusty loaf. Slice half a loaf of Cuban bread horizontally; spread yellow mustard on both halves. On bottom half, place 3 slices sweet Virginia ham, 3 slices roast pork (see recipe) and 3 slices Swiss cheese. Follow up with 4 slices sweet pickle. Place the sandwich on a sandwich grill (or in a lightly greased skillet or on a griddle, weighting the sandwich with a heavy skillet). Cook until hot and cheese is melted. Slice diagonally across the middle and serve.

Roast pork, Cuban style Prep: 15 minutes Cook: 4 to 8 hours Makes: 8 servings Glenn Lindgren, Raul Musibay and Jorge Castillo (aka Three Guys From Miami, icuban.com) adapted this recipe from their cookbook “Three Guys From Miami Cook Cuban.” If sour oranges are not available, use two parts fresh orange to one part fresh lemon and one part fresh lime. Mash 1 head garlic (10-15 cloves, peeled) and 1 teaspoon each salt and black peppercorns into a paste using a mortar and pestle (or a food processor). Stir in 1 cup freshly squeezed sour orange juice, 1 cup minced onion and 2 teaspoons oregano. Let sit at

room temperature, 30 minutes. Heat 1/2 cup olive oil in a saucepan until hot, about 220 degrees. Remove pan from heat; quickly whisk in the garlic-orange juice mixture until well blended. Let cool before using. Pierce 1 pork shoulder roast (4 to 6 pounds) all over with a sharp knife or fork. Pour garlic mixture (save a little for basting while roasting) over pork. Cover; let sit in refrigerator, 2-3 hours. Heat oven to 375 degrees. Place pork in a roasting pan; sprinkle marinade over pork. Cook uncovered, 20 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 225 degrees; cook until the meat is soft and pulls apart easily with a fork, 4-8 hours. Baste occasionally while roasting. Remove pork from pan; allow to rest. Heat the pan juices to a boil; simmer until the juice is reduced by half. Sprinkle some juice onto the pork when you put it in the sandwich.

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JUNE 2015 • THE PLATE

Flavorful flank steak from cast iron skillet By Nealey Dozier TheKitchn.com

Flank steak is a fairly popular cut of beef, and for good reason — it’s flavorful, inexpensive and incredibly versatile. Unfortunately, I’ve had my fair share of tough ones over the years; the lean meat almost seems to overcook if you just look at it the wrong way. Thankfully, this recipe for balsamic flank steak stuffed with prosciutto and cheese has renewed my faith in the often-too-tough meat. I first had a variation of this recipe at my inlaws’ house a few years ago when my father-inlaw put a few stuffed flank steaks on the grill for an impromptu family gathering. The minute the tangy beef, salty prosciutto and melted cheese hit my tongue, I knew it was a keeper. I’ve played around with the marinade since then, but I always come back to this creamy balsamic dressing (the longer the soaking time, the better). While grilling this steak is fantastic, a castiron skillet in the oven is the perfect tool for rainy days and chilly weather. Cooking this type of cut, or any cut for that matter, on cast iron is my preferred method because the pan gets smoking hot, allowing the meat to form a gorgeous brown crust with less risk of overcooking. (But don’t forget an instant-read thermometer to check the temp, since this is one steak you don’t want to go past medium rare!) The steak only gets better when made in advance. It can be marinated one or two days ahead of time, rolled and then refrigerated until ready to cook. Even better, the ingredients can be adjusted to whatever you have on hand. If you don’t have provolone, try Swiss or mozzarella. No spinach? Try basil or arugula. It’s all about flexibility. NEALEY DOZIER/TCA

Distributed by Tribune Content Agency For recipe, see Page 24

THE PLATE • JUNE 2015

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Balsamic-Marinated Stuffed Flank Steak Serves 2 to 4

For the marinade: 1/2 cup balsamic vinegar 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 2 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper 1 (2- to 3-pound) flank steak For the stuffing: 3 ounces prosciutto 6 slices provolone cheese 1 cup spinach, basil or arugula Kosher salt and pepper Neutral cooking oil, such as canola Directions: For the marinade, combine the balsamic vinegar, Dijon and garlic in a blender, and puree until smooth. With the machine running, slowly pour in the oil until thick and creamy. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer the mixture to a plastic zip-

top bag (or vacuum seal), and add the flank steak. Remove excess air and refrigerate, turning occasionally, for a minimum of 4 hours and up to 24 hours. Remove the flank steak from the marinade, and pat dry, discarding the marinade. Arrange the steak on a clean work surface so the long edge runs perpendicular to you. Using a sharp knife and cutting parallel to your work surface, butterfly the steak in half lengthwise. Make sure not to cut all the way through. (Leave a 1/2- to 1/4-inch portion along the edge.) Fold the meat open like you would a book, and gently flatten the seam to form a rectangle. Using a meat mallet or rolling pin, pound the steak to a 1/4-inch thickness. Lightly season the top with salt and pepper. Lay the prosciutto slices in an even layer parallel to the grain, leaving a 1-inch space at the top edge. Next add the provolone, followed by the spinach. Roll the flank steak away from you, parallel to the grain, making sure to keep it as compact as possible as roll. Tie in regular intervals with kitchen twine, and season the outside with salt and pepper.

(At this point, the rolled flank steak can be refrigerated for up to two days.) To cook the steak in the oven: Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Add a few tablespoons of oil to a large cast-iron or ovenproof skillet, and heat on medium-high to high until smoking. Place the rolled flank steak on the pan, and sear until deep golden brown on all sides, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer the skillet to the oven, and continue cooking until an instant-read thermometer reads 125 degrees in the middle of the roll, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer the steak to a cutting board, and tent loosely with aluminum foil. Allow to rest for 10 to 15 minutes before slicing. Snip the strings, and cut the steak into 1/2- to 3/4-inch slices. To cook the steak on the grill: Place a large cast-iron skillet in the grill, close the lid, and turn all burners on high for 12 to 15 minutes. Keep half of the burners on high heat, and turn the remaining burners down to low. (Make sure the skillet is over the high burners.) Add the rolled flank steak to the pan, close the grill, and sear until deep golden brown on all sides, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer the skillet to the cooler side of the grill, cover, and adjust the heat to maintain a grill temperature of 325 to 350 degrees. Cook the steak on the grill until an instant-read thermometer reads 125 degrees in the middle of the roll, about 8 to 12 minutes. Transfer the steak to a cutting board, and tent loosely with aluminum foil. Allow to rest for 10 to 15 minutes before slicing. Snip the strings, and cut the steak into 1/2- to 3/4-inch slices. Recipe notes: A cast-iron skillet is not completely necessary on the grill, but it allows for even searing and prevents cheese from dripping through the grates, which can cause flare-ups. Nealey Dozier is a writer for TheKitchn.com, a nationally known blog for people who love food and home cooking. Submit comments or questions to kitchn@apartmenttherapy.com.

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Is your grill ready

for your culinary imagination?

Metro Editorial Recent improvements in the design and engineering of gas grills have transformed the art of grilling. From searing and rotisserie cooking to planking and smoking, gas grills now provide chefs with several different grilling techniques to develop flavors, textures and aromas. With a quality gas grill, the right set of features and these grilling methods, the culinary possibilities for a backyard chef are endless. So what features do you need? To get the most out of different cooking methods, a gas grill has to be designed with these performance features: Excellent heat retention; searing power and flavor vaporization at the grids; full coverage stainless steel flavor wave, or heat medium; precise heat control; a side burner and a rotisserie burner. 26

THE PLATE • JUNE 2015

Mastering the Techniques One of the unique and delicious methods to grill food uses a wooden plank. The smoke created from the plank sitting directly above a lit burner infuses the meat with a delicate smoky flavor. Using a plank is simple: • Soak it in water for at least an hour and pat it dry. • Pre-heat your grill on high for 10 minutes. • Coat both sides of the plank with olive oil then place the seasoned meat on it. • Place the plank on the grill directly over the lit burner and reduce the heat to medium-low. • Cook the meat to its desired doneness. Grilling planks are specifically designed for the grill and there a variety of flavors to choose. Cedar planks are ideal for

salmon, but don’t be afraid to try other meats. Pork goes great on a maple plank and lamb is delicious on alder. Try planking today with this easy recipe for salmon using a cedar plank.

Tahini-Sesame Salmon

Ingredients: 1 cup tahini (Sesame Butter) 1 cup honey 1 cup soy Sauce White wine (for consistency) • Coat the salmon fillets with a light dusting of salt and black pepper. • Mix the tahini, honey and soy sauce. Add white wine as necessary if the mixture is too thick. It should be creamy but still light enough to drizzle and baste. • Coat the filets with the glaze and arrange them on the planks and place planks on the grill. • Close the lid and cook for 15 to 20 minutes. Salmon is cooked when it is opaque in color and flakey to the touch of a fork. More tips on mastering the methods along with recipes ideas are available online at www.broilkingbbq.com.

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Your next night out may find you embracing these growing trends Metro Editorial Bars and restaurants fuel local economies across the country. Any night when a master mixologist is behind the bar or a gastronomical guru is manning the grill is an opportunity to enjoy a few drinks or a great meal. Many bars and restaurants look to capitalize on the latest trends in an effort to bring customers in and keep them coming back. The following are a handful of the latest trends men and women can expect to encounter on their next night out on the town. Tech-guided assistance Restaurants and bars are implementing more technology into the service industry, eliminating downtime and streamlining orders. Dread calling a restaurant for reservations? No problem. Many establishments enable you to reserve a table or even preorder dinner from a mobile device. The chef can start prepping your meal even before you arrive and keep the flow in and out of the restaurant moving right along.

Some bars now allow customers to place drink orders via apps or tablets, saving you the struggle of muscling your way to the bar to get a drink. Such THINKSTOCK PHOTO apps employ location-based software so servers can quickly and easily find your table. Some chain restaurants even use table-mounted technology so you can get beverage refills or pay for the bill without signaling a server. Exotic ingredients It’s not only chefs who are testing dining mettle with exotic ingredients. Bartenders are taking a cue from trendy foraged ingredients and using them to modernize outdated cocktails. Botanical

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THE PLATE • JUNE 2015

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ingredients like lichen, honeysuckle, Pacific madrone bark and pine needles are turning up in drinks across the country. Many mixologists also are leaning more heavily on organic and naturally-sourced ingredients rather than prepackaged mixers. Locally sourced products Eco-conscious consumers demand more locally sourced items, and this trend is beginning to pour over into the beverage industry. Expect to hear bartenders advertising more local ingredients, such as craft beers bottled right up the street or wine made from grapes grown at a nearby vineyard. Some bars may source spirits from neighborhood distilleries. Leafy greens and root vegetables Foods from humble beginnings are turning into gourmet fare. It seems a new bitter green or starchy product is becoming the vegetable du jour each week. Afraid to try your hand at kale or kohlrabi from the comforts of your own kitchen? Don’t worry, as many nearby restaurants are likely willing to do that experimenting for you. Spicy-sweet condiments Salsa may have surpassed ketchup as a favorite dipping sauce, but many others are poised to take the top condiment prize. Savvy chefs are experimenting with a variety of hot and sweet flavor combinations. Expect to find more jams, jellies, rubs, dips, and glazes with a spicy twist on your favorite foods. Communal drinks Each person in a group ordering his or her own cocktail is not necessarily the norm anymore. Some establishments are concocting family-style punches that can be enjoyed by all guests pulling up a chair. Shared drinks may come in a pitcher or a spigot jar to enhance the festive and communal feel. Going out for a night on the town will enlighten diners to a series of new trends that are paving the way for unique experiences.

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THE PLATE • JUNE 2015

Top 10 camping foods Here is a round-up of some camp-friendly meal ideas to make ahead or assemble at the camp site! 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

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Chinese Style Honey Hoisin Sticky Ribs Courtesy of Williamsburg Pottery Serves 2 to 3 INGREDIENTS (For braising the ribs) 1 rack of pork baby back ribs, cut in half 1 onion, peeled and quartered 1 carrot, peeled and sliced into disks 1 thumb of ginger, about one inch, sliced 1 head of garlic, sliced in half across the cloves 1 cup San J Tamari Soy Sauce water

INGREDIENTS (To finish the ribs) 2 tablespoons Lee Kum Kee Hoisin Sauce 2 tablespoons Kame Oyster Sauce 1 tablespoon Marukan Rice Wine Vinegar 2 teaspoons San J Tamari Soy Sauce 1 teaspoon Huy Fong Sriracha Sauce 1/3 cup Savannah Bee Honey 1 green onion cut into slivers 1 tablespoon Sushi Chef Sesame Seeds, toasted

DIRECTIONS DIRECTIONS Place the ribs into the bottom of a snug, heavy bottomed pot (make sure you have a lid for the pot, be it an actual lid, sheet tray, or pizza pan). Add the rest of the ingredients, then add water to cover the ribs by 1 inch. Place the pot over medium high heat and bring the liquid to a boil. Once it has come to a boil, reduce the heat to low, put the lid on, and simmer the ribs until they are tender, about 1 1/2 to 2 hours. The meat should shrink on the rib bones, and the actual bones should have revealed themselves by 3/8 to 1/2 an inch. You can test for tenderness by slicing a sliver from an end and taste. It should have some tooth but still be tender. Remove the ribs from the pot and discard the braising liquid. You can make a soup from the liquid, or freeze it for the next time you want to make an Asian red cooked dish. (If you plan to cook the ribs later in the week, you can let the ribs cool right in the pot, then place the whole thing into the fridge until you are ready to finish the ribs in the oven.)

In a small bowl combine the hoisin, oyster, soy, sriracha, vinegar, and honey. Whisk to combine. When you are ready to finish cooking the ribs, heat the oven to 450°F. Place the ribs onto a sheet tray lined with foil for easy clean-up. Using a grill brush, paint both sides of the ribs with a light coating of the sauce. Keep coating the ribs with the sauce until they take on a lacquer quality, then bake them until they start to darken and caramelize. Remove the ribs from the oven and cut them into pieces. To serve, sprinkle with sesame seeds and garnish with green onion.

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THE PLATE • JUNE 2015

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