DRAM SEPTEMBER 2021 by DRAM Scotland

DRAM

370

DRINKS RETAILING AND MARKETING

@dramscotland

DRAM MAGAZINE September 2021 ISSN 1470-241X

/dram.scotland

DRAM AWARDS

2021

COUNTDOWN TO THE SCOTTISH BAR AND PUB AWARDS 2021

DRINKS RETAILING AND MARKETING

WELCOME

fter months of preparation and judging our Scottish Bar & Pub Awards are finally here and as clichéd as it sounds, the standard keeps on climbing each year, so well done to you all. The DRAM team is looking forward to seeing you all on the 7th at The Hilton on Glasgow’s William Street and at the after-party at the Radisson Red. Elsewhere in this issue, I met Stefano Pieraccini, owner of the Edinburgh-based Rocca Group at his new Rico’s Ristorante to discuss his Michelin star goal and UK expansion plans. He’s only 26. Read it on page 12. It’s always a pleasure to catch up with more brand reps, and what started as a one-off feature has snowballed into a regular column and our next batch is all ready to read on page 9. Our design focus is Luciano’s in Glasgow – the latest refurbishment from Fallon and Anthony Çowley of the Meraki Restaurant Group who have been incredibly industrious during the pandemic, and you can digest the pictures plus our verdict on page 24. I also caught up with the final six Wm Grant & Sons Bar Apprentices to find out how what they enjoyed most about the experience. Enjoy the awards!

CONTENTS September

FEATURES

ONE TO WATCH

Jason Caddy speaks to Stefano Peracini

THE 2021 AWARD FINALISTS The countdown begins

LUCIANO’S DESIGN FEATURE Fallon and Anthony Cowley have a new babay in the sahpe of Luciano’s named after their son. It is lookong amazing.

REGULARS

4 @dramscotland

A GREAT REP IS NOT HARD TO FIND The continuation of what is now a regular feature.

12 16 24

Jason Caddy, Editor jason@mediaworldltd.com dramscotland.co.uk

2021

/dram.scotland

NEWS

All the news on pubs, bars, restaurants and hotels.

SUE SAYS

Our publisher Sue pulls no punches.

DRAM SEPTEMBER 2021 3

JOHNNIE WALKER PRINCES STREET THROWS OPEN ITS DOORS The 71,500 sq ft Johnnie Walker Princes Street in Edinburgh is now live. It sits at the heart of Diageo’s £185million investment in Scotch whisky tourism in Scotland and follows the opening of new experiences at the Glenkinchie, Clynelish and Cardhu distilleries. The experience takes visitors on an immersive journey through the 200-year old history behind the Scotch whisky and also boasts the 1820 rooftop bar, offering views across the city and Edinburgh Castle, and The Label Studio which will host a variety of live events and performances throughout the year. There’s also an extensive retail space. Barbara Smith, Managing Director of Diageo’s Scotland Brand Homes, said, “We have built an incredibly talented and diverse team who will bring the Johnnie Walker story to life, creating a world-class experience for our guests. “Johnnie Walker Princes Street will offer something unlike any other visitor experience in Scotland. It will be a venue for everyone, whether that’s visitors to Scotland or local people in Edinburgh, Scotch whisky lovers, or those savouring Scotch whisky for the first time.”

2ND GLASGOW BAR FOR INDEEP TEAM Amy Williams and Sandy MacMillan, the team behind the Inn Deep on the Kelvin have opened their second Glasgow bar, Broken Pony in the former home of St Louis Cafe Bar at 734 Dumbarton Road in the Thornwood neighbourhood. Leading the team is Zander Duncan, who has managed The Loch Shiel Hotel, Inn Deep, and then the Star & Dove Bar in Bristol. It’s a Charles Rennie Mackintosh-inspired space featuring pieces of art by local Glasgow artists.

Celentano’s moves into Cathedral House Celentano’s, the new Italian-style restaurant founded by husband and wife duo Anna and Dean Parker, has taken up permanent residence at Cathedral House Hotel in Glasgow. Shane and Laura Mckenzie took over the freehold of Cathedral House in 2018, and wile Dean has worked in many London restaurants in the last few years, Glasgow-born Anna has a background in fashion.

DRAM SEPTEMBER 2021

DOPPIO MALTO OPENS ITALIAN KITCHENBREWERY CONCEPT IN GLASGOW Italian kitchen-brewery concept Doppio Malto whose CEO and founder is Giovanni Porcu has opened its first UK venue in Glasgow’s George Square on the site of Jamie Oliver’s former restaurant. Giovanni Porcu aims to open 100 restaurants throughout the UK with a second restaurant planned for Newcastle before the end of the year, followed by Edinburgh in 2022 and possibly Dundee and St Andrews thereafter. The 8000 sq ft space houses an 80-cover restaurant and bar with 15 types of craft house beer, Italian staples plus BBQ meats cooked to order on a charcoal grill. Giovanni Poccu said, “At the very heart of Doppio Malto is our motto ‘un posto felice’ – a ‘happy place.’ Everything is designed around feeling good – from the food and beer to the service and physical space, and we are so excited to bring this unique concept to the UK.”

Smoked B-B-Q Dundee Smoked meat restaurant concept Smoked B-B-Q has teamed up with Captain’s Cabin on 15 Ward Street Dundee. Smoked B-B-Q owner Chris Symonds, who also owns Tom’s Dundee and Feta Street Food, told DRAM, “We were searching Dundee for our barbecue concept as we felt the city needed one, and after speaking to Simon Cruickshank and Sean Bennett, owners of Captain’s Cabin, we found out that they had a great kitchen space and no-one to use it. We all agreed that Smoked Smoked B-B-Q would be a fantastic addition to their bar. “We are looking forward to serving Dundee and surrounding areas with our in-house delivery service and as Captain Cabin launches in other cities.”

NEWS Mark Donald launches The Glenturret Lalique

McGinty’s Group takes ownership of Under The Hammer Aberdeen’s McGinty’s Group is taking over city-centre pub, Under The Hammer, following its closure last year and it’s undergoing a £200K refurbishment ahead of an early November opening. The basement bar located on North Silver Street, just off Golden Square, closed when former licensee Colin Watson announced it would not reopen in September 2020 due to ongoing coronavirus pandemic restrictions. The McGinty’s Group, which operates nine venues in the

city, will give the venue a new lease of life by refurbishing and modernising the 50-seater bar. Director of The McGinty’s Group, Allan Henderson, told DRAM, “Under the Hammer ties into our reputation of bringing old favourites in the city back to life. The place needs money spent on it. “It’s an excellent venue for patrons of music hall and theatre and has been an Aberdeen institution for 40 years and we’re looking to provide a new cocktail offering too.”

Fife Arms delves into whisky Fife Arms Hotel in the Highland village of Braemar has created its own whisky in partnership with Dave Broom and Adelphi Distillery, for the launch of its new whisky bar, Bertie’s. The Fife Arms Braemar Whisky will launch on September 13th and will be the hotel’s house whisky. Working closely with the hotel team, Dave carefully curated the collection of 365 whiskies in Bertie’s, one for each day of the year, and each one chosen for its character, flavour, and story. Of these, 85% are Scotch whiskies, with the rest of the best from 17 other countries around the world Bertie’s also has a ‘whisky library’ where guests can lose themselves in a labyrinth of whisky bottles, arranged like books on backlit shelves.

Scotland’s Glenturret Distillery in Perthshire has just launched The Glenturret Lalique Restaurant, where chef Mark Donald will bring his extensive experience working in Michelinstarred restaurants to the table. The Glenturret was purchased by French lifestyle group Lalique in 2019, and this is the latest development by the parent company. Chef Donald has worked at two-Michelin-starred establishments, Hibiscus in London and Restaurant Andrew Fairlie in Gleneagles, as well as at Noma in Copenhagen. Before joining The Glenturret Lalique Restaurant, he was head chef at Number One at the Balmoral in Edinburgh. It was here that he worked alongside pastry chef Kayleigh Turner who joins him in the kitchen at Glenturret. The decor contains nods to the distillery’s owners, with Lalique Champs Elysées chandeliers and barley motifs crafted from Lalique crystal on display as part of the interior decor and bespoke Lalique glassware and tableware.

BRIEFS

Season Quayside is the newest restaurant to grace Commercial Street in Leith and is the brainchild of Chef Aaron Hartman. The concept is based on highlighting the finest local Scottish larder. Said Aaron, who also runs a catering business, “Our goal is to make a real impact on the food and drink scene here by offering all-day dining in a relaxed, inclusive environment where everyone feels welcome and can find a new favourite dish.” Plans have been lodged with Edinburgh Council to transform St Mary’s Street Dry Cleaners into a new café. According to an application form, the hope is to transform the existing dry cleaners into a ‘coffee and sandwich premises with limited cooking’. If successful, cooking at the venue will be limited to ‘microwaves, soup tureen and baked potato oven’ and the restaurant itself will seat 28 people. Edinburgh hotel The Glasshouse has opened The Hendrick’s Cucumber Lemonade Garden – a rooftop bar with views across to Calton Hill – complete with its own greenery and lawn games. Edinburgh’s Holy Cow vegan restaurant is opening venue number two, Holy Cow Lounge, on Dundee Street in Fountainbridge .

DRAM SEPTEMBER 2021 5

NEWS

COUNTDOWN TO ABANDON SHIP’S DEBUT IN GLASGOW Phil Donaldson, Richard Davies and AJ McMenemy of Dundeebased MacMerry 300 will open Abandon Ship Bar at 43 Mitchell Street in Glasgow on 17th September, complete with casual dining restaurant, bar and retail space. The first Abandon Ship Bar opened in Dundee in 2019 and this marks the group’s 14th venue. Said operations director, AJ McMenemy, “With Abandon Ship Bar we are returning to our cultural home and our brand roots with our opening in Glasgow. Rich set up Abandon Ship Apparel in the East End of the city almost a decade ago, before we opened our first bar in Dundee in 2019. This feels like our homecoming and we can’t wait to show Glasgow what we’re all about.” Set over two floors, it boasts 150 square metres of hand-drawn artwork from Abandon Ship creative director, Richard Davies, that took weeks to complete. Drawing inspiration from traditional tattoo art, pop culture and his own ‘weird sense of humour’, Davies artwork plays homage to the brand’s roots. The dining restaurant will specialise in Americana soul food, while downstairs is dedicated to fashion and will be home to lifestyle brand Abandon Ship Apparel and a ‘Dressing Room’ that customers can browse while having a drink.

NEW RESTAURANT FOR FIFE Fife’s Hawkswood Country Estate, a self-catering holiday park owned by John Ainscough, has been granted permission to build a new restaurant complete with its very own helipad. The new restaurant will seat 38 diners inside and 28 outside, with car parking spaces and a helicopter landing pad to the east. The plans were discussed at a meeting of the northeast Fife planning committee as they were the subject of 30 objections, as well as 40 notes of support from local residents and businesses. 6

DRAM SEPTEMBER 2021

MANORVIEW INTRODUCE THE LOWLAND TO THE LYNNHURST The Manorview Hotels & Leisure Group has refurbished its restaurant and bar at the Lynnhurst Hotel in Johnstone and renamed it The Lowland. Said Carlton Graham, operations director at Manorview Hotels & Leisure Group, “We have updated the décor and created a stylish and relaxed atmosphere perfectly suited for all-day dining. With a focus on quality, choice and amazing value we are confident the new menus will really appeal to our local catchment “Across our portfolio, we are seeing a definite shift in customers enjoying dining locally on a more regular basis post-COVID and we are delighted to have new a restaurant that ticks all of these boxes in Johnstone now. “Post Lockdown, we have really focused on properties in our portfolio where we identified opportunities to enhance our offering and the Lynnhurst is the perfect example of this. We are known for our weddings at the hotel and now we want to build the same reputation for The Lowland restaurant. We don’t just want Lynnhurst to be a fantastic wedding venue, we want it to really be a spot locals can enjoy 7 days a week.”

BRAND NEWS ALL THE L ATEST BRAND NEWS

ALCOHOL FREE

ERDINGER ALKOHOLFREI GRAPEFRUIT LAUNCHES IN THE UK ERDINGER Weissbräu is enhancing its alcohol free range in the UK with the addition of a grapefruit alternative alongside the established ERDINGER Alkoholfrei. Peter Gowans, Country Manager for ERDINGER Weissbräu, said, “ERDINGER Alkoholfrei Grapefruit is a distinctive fusion made from 50% ERDINGER Alkoholfrei wheat beer and 50% a refreshing grapefruit juice drink. Best served chilled, it can be drunk straight from the bottle so it is easy to enjoy wherever you are. With the continued interest in alcohol free drinks we are passionate about bringing an exciting and enjoyable new product to the UK market, underpinned by the reputation, quality and reliability of ERDINGER, the largest familyowned wheat beer brewery.”

WHISKY INTRODUCING TALES OF THE MACALLAN VOLUME I The Macallan has unveiled Tales of The Macallan Volume I, the first limited edition whisky in a new series of single malts that tells the story of The Macallan pioneers and their whisky-making legacy. Sarah Burgess, Lead Whisky Maker for The Macallan, said, “Tales of The Macallan tells of remarkable individuals and an exceptional spirit. Each of these people left their mark on The Macallan with their unique contribution and legacy alive in our brand’s DNA and in every drop of our whisky to this day. “Tales of The Macallan Volume I is a tribute to Captain John Grant, who paved the way for The Macallan and brought the influence of nature and community spirit. As custodians of the Estate, we are continuously inspired by our environment, upholding our responsibility to nurture and protect the wonderful natural habitat that is home to our distillery. For further information visit www.themacallan.com

SIXTH EDITION OF TAMDHU’S BATCH STRENGTH SERIES

TEQUILA

ROOSTER ROJO LAUNCHES FIRST PINEAPPLE TEQUILA Amber Beverages is this month launching the first new tequila from Fabrica de Tequilas Fino in the UK after the group’s recent acquisition of the distillery in Jalisco, Mexico. The smallbatch Rooster Rojo Smoked Pineapple Infused Anejo Tequila will complement three other classic tequilas in the range: Rooster Rojo Blanco, Reposado and Añejo. Their tall wine-style bottles carry bold vintage graphics and the bold image of a red rooster, which is proudly a symbol of Mexico. The new Smoked Pineapple expression features cutaway spiked pineapple leaves on the bottle label to stand out against the dark amber tequila. Rooster Rojo is produced using 100 percent Blue Weber agave in the heart of the UNESCO protected tequila region right next to the Tequila Volcano. Trade enquiries to Amber Beverages UK (formerly Cellar Trends): sales.uk@amberbev.com

Tamdhu Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky has announced the sixth limited edition of its ‘Batch Strength’ series. Sandy McIntyre, Tamdhu Distillery Manager, said, “The Batch Strength series is one of our most popular releases – and Batch Strength No.006 is sure to appeal to our fans old and new. The high proportion of first-fill Oloroso sherry casks give this whisky a rich, complex taste and long, rewarding finish.” Bottles of Tamdhu Batch Strength No. 006 are available to purchase via https://www.tamdhu.com/our-collection/tamdhubatch-strength-no-006

Limited-Edition Expressions from Distell Bunnahabhain, Tobermory and Deanston distilleries have announced a selection of limited-edition expressions - showcasing the finest characteristics of Distell’s single malt whisky portfolio. Julieann Fernandez, Master Blender at Distell said. “To be able to tell the stories behind each distillery and showcase the team who have worked so hard behind the scenes to keep our whisky flowing, is a real honour for us. These film clips pay tribute to these teams and our distillery homelands. “We’re incredibly excited to share these four wonderful, limitededition whiskies with fans around the world, each with their own defining characteristics and flavour profiles, inspired by the very best attributes of our award-winning distilleries.” DRAM SEPTEMBER 2021 7

Key Stroke (For Yellow/Gold backgrounds)

A GOOD REP ISN’T HARD TO FIND Jason Caddy talks to four great Managers. Find out what they have to say...

I ORRIER GER SARA C NT MANA E M P LO E CASTLE EV EW BRAND D W AND N , GLASGO HI-SPIRITS

Sara, 26, is brand new to this role - she was formerly territory sales manager for Dunns Food & Drink. “This is my third week in the job and it’s great to be meeting all my new accounts in Glasgow. I haven’t been down to Newcastle yet - that’s next week. “I love being out and about so this is the ideal job for me. I’m not really an office ‘9 to 5’ person and love meeting new customers. You must be confident and positive and be genuinely outgoing to do this job. “But I get the biggest buzz from helping licensees grow their business and getting my products on the back bar, and I would love to stay in the drinks industry and run my own sales team in the future.” Eating out and trying new places and cocktails is what Sara likes to do away from the job.

G NEIL YEOWUEN RY

WEST BR MANAGER ST SALES WEST COA SCOTLAND WEST OF

Callum is 30 and originally from ILLY MANAGER San Francisco. He LUM NEE L A C PMENT LO V moved to Scotland DE STIRLING BUSINESS DUNDEE, , TH R E to study civil P , G W GLASGO T BREWIN T7 engineering but quit - STEWAR R PROJEC N E FO E D S R W E E R AB D N A T the course to follow H&S EDINBURG his true passion. “A career in hospitality always interested me the most. My uncle has a bar in San Francisco and I thought what better place than Scotland to make the move into this industry.” He started as a glass collector at Glasgow’s Viper and then followed a stint working in bars in Finnieston, before the job with Stewart Brewing beckoned. “They’d never had anybody based outside of Edinburgh before so they took me on with an eye to expanding beyond the city. “This industry grabs you, it’s the constant interpersonal interaction with people that I love the most. It’s about showing them something new and opening their eyes even if it’s just for ten minutes. It’s also about finding unique solutions for people. Seeing where their brand and our brand intersect and finding ways we can work together, then getting a couple of brands in fridge or keg line, followed up with support, staff training, and tasting nights. “I come from where craft beer revolution started and seeing how ubiquitous it is and watching Scotland move into that space is interesting. Similar styles of beer are popular at the same time but how each spreads in the drinking community tends to differ.”

Neil Young (his parents were big fans), 39, joined WEST Brewery in 2019 and it turns out it’s a very musical company - Matt Munro is the sales director! He’s worked for Global Brands and Budweiser but most recently he spent six years with a manufacturing company before returning to the trade. “I had to come back. The on-trade and pubs have always held a very special place in my heart. My aunt owns a pub and I have loved the smell of pubs ever since I was wee, laid in front of the fire in her pub reading comics with my sister. “I said to myself that I would only ever go back to work for a product that I

love because it’s an industry that I love. You need to speak passionately to sell the product and I am a passionate St Mungo drinker.” Since the pandemic, he’s taken on direct deliveries one day a week. “It’s a great opportunity to see key customers every week and it’s good to touch base on a more regular basis. “We just launched our new autumn and winter products and it’s so refreshing to be able to talk about it with customers with no mention of vaccines or restrictions or lockdowns.” Away from the job he loves playing golf and watching football and his wife has converted him into to a bit of a foodie.

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LLEN NT LEWISS CDU E V E ELOPM

STON’S BUSINES ERG MAR , CARLSB S MANAGER IE TO DUMFR GLASGOW Four years into the role and thirty-year-old Lewis has a bigger portfolio and a changed role after Martson’s merger with Carlsberg. “I started with Marston’s and came across with the merger. It was a positive step and my role changed to become more wholesale focussed, now that the portfolio has increased with a beer for everyone. The team has grown too and hopefully on back of that, the Carlsberg market share in Scotland will also grow. “I enjoy meeting customers, all the hustle and bustle of being on the road, seeing new opportunities arising, but what I enjoy most is seeing customers’ success and them benefitting. It’s a win-win - the better they do, the better we do. There’s no point having a product in the bar that’s not going to sell. “I would like to grow my skills in this role and manage bigger accounts in time. I also have ambitions to work towards becoming sales director in the future.” A sports enthusiast, Lewis is a keen golfer and enjoys football and also worked for in a sales role for David Lloyd sports clubs before this one.

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Monica has been with Matthew Clark for 26 years. “I started in telesales, became team leader, sales account manager, and then Business Development Manager ten years ago. “The best aspect of the job is getting out and building relationships and this doesn’t happen overnight. You don’t suddenly get an opportunity to trade – it’s not a case of putting in a pitch and getting the business. This is the part of the process I love most. “The trade has changed dramatically in the last ten years. More and more people are looking for a premium drinks and a premium experience - it’s all about the quality and provenance. When I started dealing with wine, nobody would have dreamed of asking if it’s ethically sourced, vegan, or vegetarian. “Following the pandemic, I feel customers are going out less perhaps, but when

N CLAUCEHRLA DAVIDOM AG UNT MAN KEY ACC NDS LMB BRA D N A TL O C S

ULTY ESS A MCNEW BUSIN MONIC HEW OUNT & N KEY ACC AGER,MATT ENT MAN DEVELOPM OF SCOTLAND EST CLARK W

they do go out, it’s quality over quantity that will remain.” What about the future? “I am very happy at Matthew Clark. Yes, we have had our challenges, particularly in the last few months, but we pull together and work as a team.”

David, 36, studied music and still plays guitar he also worked for a property developer for a spell before his trade calling. “I was looking for something more creative after the property development – so I worked with two drinks start-ups called The Finnieston Distillery Company and Silver Spear Gin, then came this role with LMB Brands in June 2019 when I was looking for more of a structured working environment. “Glen Moray single Malt and Cutty Sark are my core brands and it’s a big organisation, apparent from the production sites it has all over the world, but I work in a tight-knit team and this means that we have good communication. We learned a lot from each other over the last 18 months and we are closer as a result of the pandemic, I’d say.” When the on-trade was closed, David also got to see other sides of the business that he wouldn’t have seen otherwise, but how are his customers feeling now they’re back in business? “I think there’s cautious optimism out there and we are starting to plan with clients along the lines of bigger activations and tentatively putting them in the diary. “I love the drinks industry and how resilient hospitality is, and I want to stay right where I am and grow my skills.” David’s wife’s from Boston and they love to travel to the States whenever they can.

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5 LOCAL DEPOTS - PROVIDING A NEXT DAY SERVICE

Territory Sales Managers

East Lothian & Edinburgh City Jason Mackay: 07775 000388 jason.mackay@bestway.co.uk Edinburgh West, South Fife & West Lothian Scott Howie: 07912 362643 scott.howie@bestway.co.uk Perthshire, West Angus & West Fife Kenneth Scott: 07768 992888 kenneth.scott@batleys.co.uk

Inverness & Aberdeenshire Anne Cantile: 07768 992892 anne.cantile@bestway.co.uk Aberdeen, Fraserburgh & Peterhead Gordon Beagrie: 07881 271962 gordon.beagrie@bestway.co.uk Dundee, East Angus & East Neuk Lisa Ellis: 07341 865555 lisa.ellis@bestway.co.uk

Glasgow City & South Christine Laird: 07766 023276 christine.laird@bestway.co.uk Glasgow North & Stirling David Fallon: 07824 494985 david.fallon@bestway.co.uk

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ONE TO WATCH LICENSEE INTERVIEW by JASON CADDY

tefano Pieraccini is 26 years old, owns The Rocca Group and its four leaseholds, The Seafood Ristorante in St Andrews, and Edinburgh’s The West Room, The Broughton, and Rico’s Ristorante and employs 50 staff. He is aiming for his first Michelin star, and wants to roll out his new Rico’s Ristorante brand across the UK in a couple of years. He’s Scots-Italian and is the only son of Susan and the late Adrian Pieraccini, who ran hotels in Inverness like the Rocpool brand and latterly Rocca in St Andrews, after the family moved there following a brief spell living in Dubai. He started washing up in his family’s hotels aged 14, then followed a business and marketing management degree at Northumbria University, a stint in marketing for the FA in London, and working off-shore before starting The Rocca Group in 2017. Stefano, whose girlfriend is a lawyer, kicked things off in our chat at Rico’s in Edinburgh by telling me how his success is a collective effort while being incredibly gracious about how he got started in business. “My parents bankrolled the first business, The Seafood Ristorante in St Andrews. The reason I do what I do is because of them. I also know that this business isn’t just me – I have worked with and continue to work with some exceptionally talented people, and without those people around me, I wouldn’t be able to do what I am doing. “But I have a vision. People can go their whole life no knowing what they’re good at, and, believe it or not, hospitality is genuinely what I’m good at. “All my pubs are leaseholds. I don’t have the capital behind me to buy property, being the age I am. But I think it’s important to add that I don’t owe money to anyone. I don’t have investors - it’s money my parents put in at the start, and money I have put in since.” Stefano’s parents quit running bars in 2016 and moved to Edinburgh and Stefano took on the lease at The Seafood Ristorante the following year. “The former owner of The Seafood Ristorante in St Andrews Tim Butler, who we knew personally and still do, had fallen out of love with the venue after 14 years. But it’s a really special venue, so my father and I decided to invest in it jointly, the majority of the capital coming from him. “When we opened in March in 2017, I brought in the team I wanted. My executive chef Davey Aspin had worked at Rocca and Rocpool Reserve for my parents, and I’ve known him since I was 12. “Without Davie, Jamie Mackinnon, my head chef in St Andrews, and Paul Barber my executive chef at Edinburgh, I couldn’t do what I am doing. “ Stefano lets his chefs get on with their job and gives them

DRAM SEPTEMBER 2021

complete creative licence, while he concentrates on the operational side of the business. “I listen to my staff. I’m not an owner that says my train set, my rules. I let staff have their say. My chefs, I tell to use the suppliers they want and cook what they want. They have total creative control. “I am very hands-on and work every service and I also understand people – that’s probably my biggest skill. As soon as a customer walks through the door I understand them by the way they present themselves. The biggest skill in hospitality is identifying, meeting, and then exceeding customers’ expectations, once you have ‘read’ them, and this comes from experience. “ Some of the people he’s worked with over the years have likewise gone on to be big noises in Scottish hospitality. “The manager of Rocca was Liam Simpson and he went on to achieve one Michelin star as restaurant manager at Adare Manor in Limerick where he achieved one Michelin star. He’s now restaurant manager at Gleneagles. “We also had a Golden Grape sommelier called Chris Delalonde and he’s a Cork of Master sommelier, one of only a few hundred in the world. He was like a walking book. So knowledgeable learned so much from him.” How did he come to lease the building from Martin Wishart who ran The Honours restaurant where Rico’s is today, before it became a casualty of the pandemic? “I had the idea in my head for three years. I knew I wanted to do it in Edinburgh. I knew that this venue was the one I wanted. “I first enquired about it in early 2019, and Martin and I had a conversation about it but the numbers didn’t quite work for me. But completely understandably, as this was preCovid and hospitality was booming. It was just too much of a gamble at the time, and he completely understood. “Then Covid hit and Martin phoned me again and said, look, do you fancy revisiting this? I looked at the figures and I wasn’t in a terrible position by any means at this point. Each business was doing well, and I’d taken advantage of government grants and furlough, and I only made two redundancies at The St Andrews Seafood Ristorante, two at the Broughton, and one at West Room. “We managed to strike a ten-year deal that we’ll review after five years that works commercially for us both. I will say that Martin is a big inspiration for me. The first Michelin starred restaurant I went to was his, in Leith. “My thinking behind it was that there are hundreds of Italian restaurants in Edinburgh but none that really put themselves at the top. Everyone understands Italian food, everyone knows what a plate of pasta should taste like, but when you serve someone a plate of homemade pasta and

ONE TO WATCH LICENSEE INTERVIEW

Ragu, the difference is night and day. “I took inspiration from restaurants in Dubai and I thought that there’s nothing in Edinburgh that really puts itself up there, plus the market has changed now. Take Tattu, you have a darker atmosphere and the guys have done it so well, and they get a good age range, but the music may be too loud for some people. “Whereas Rico’s sits kind of mid-market and is very classy, yet understandable and still very welcoming. The music’s on, but it’s not intrusive. From the moment you walk in, we’ve gone with small details and that’s what I really care about.” And he’s so proud of his concept that he wants to roll it out UK-wide. “Rico’s I want to roll out as a brand. I hope it will be Newcastle next because I know the market after spending three years at uni there and working in nightlife. I’d also consider a site in Glasgow. I see this roll-out happening in about two years because everything needs to be perfect with Rico’s Edinburgh first.” Stefano’s mum Susan does the accounts for The Rocca Group and works on the interior design of his venues – like in Rico’s. “Alan Baxter and Gill Morris of the Davidson Baxter Partnership did The Broughton and because they did such a great job I brought them in to design Rico’s too. It was their design concept, they sourced it and put it all together and worked closely with my mum.” One of Stefano’s personal goals is a Michelin star for The Seafood Ristorante St Andrews. “It will be six years in March since we opened it. We inherited an interior consisting of a hard floor, white tablecloths, up-back chairs and that’s never been my style of dining. I don’t like stuffiness. I like it to be and you’re wowed by the venue and you just feel relaxed, and then everything else, the service, the food, does the talking. I don’t want customers to feel privileged that they’re eating here. “I thought at the time, what’s the point of trying to upstage the amazing view over St Andrews Bay and West Sands Beach, so the changes we made were minimal. “I put in a carpet to absorb some of the sound, put in comfy chairs, spaced it out, as the layout as it was too tight. The style is casual but professional. I had doubled the turnover to a figure close to £2m turnover in 2019 pre-Covid – not 14

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bad for a 50-cover restaurant. “But I am going to be completely refurbishing the place in January 2022. It’s a stunning venue and the food and the service are the best it’s ever been, but I’m going to make it even better. It’s full for lunch and dinner every single day so from a business point of view and a restaurateur’s point of view, I’ve done the job. “The market is always changing though, and there’s always going to be someone that wants to knock you off your pedestal so I don’t want to bury my head in the sand and keep taking the money. “I am going to make it the best dining venue in Scotland. It’s done five years, the standard timeframe for any venue before it needs at least a freshen-up. I’m going to reduce the covers again, to 40 possibly, and it will become super-premium and my dream is one Michelin star. I have to give it a go and take this venue to the next level. I know the food is there. “ And he’s already got form: The Broughton was mentioned in The Michelin Guide. “In 2019 I was approached by Star Pubs and Bars to lease The Broughton on Edinburgh’s Broughton Street, who were looking for somebody young in the trade to run it. It was a Capex project, so I didn’t have to put up much money, only £50k. I love this venue. It’s a tenancy for five years, with an option to buy after five years. “I give each business a target and we work to it collectively to achieve it. With The Broughton, it’s Bib Gourmand, so it’s Michelin recognition of high-quality food where you can get three courses for under £30. “We launched The Broughton just before Covid hit, but once we were allowed to open again and we got in the Michelin Guide, which was a big win as we’d only been open six months. We knew we’d had a visit but to get this type of recognition was the icing on the cake.” The West Room is also leased through Star Pubs and Bars but he is selling the lease. It came about in 2018 and was Stefano’s first foray into the Edinburgh market. “I always wanted to come into Edinburgh market. My parents

used to drink in this bar, which is tiny and so incredibly intimate, and I saw the potential to break the Edinburgh market. “We spoke to Compass Group and they were wanting to sell the lease anyway, and it was a pretty painless process. We paid about £70k and invested £20k and launched it as The West Room Bar and Chiccetti, keeping it in the Italian theme. But then the family was visited by tragedy. “My father took ill in 2020 and passed away shortly afterward. My parents had been running it for me, so we decided to put it on the market and the sale is pretty close to completion. “It’s a great wee owner-operated business. If it were me and a chef running it six days a week, I reckon I’d be driving a Bentley. But that’s not the situation and because it’s so small the staff costs take over so I can’t be sentimental about it. You can’t get emotionally attached to a business. I’ve learned that lesson over and over in this industry.” Like many operators, staffing is a big thorn in his side at the moment. “Staffing is horrendous. People have fallen out of love with this industry pure and simple. Big hotel companies that made all these people redundant during lockdown have forced people into logistics, or Amazon, or retail – and that’s where they’re staying. “They don’t get the stress and don’t want the long hours. How I’ve tacked it is that all my staff in Rico’s and The Seafood Ristorante only work four days. They do long hours in the four days, granted, but that extra day off makes the world of difference to them. “I always like to work with career hospitality people but I’ve had to go down the student route or training people for two shifts a week, say, because I just can’t find them. “I have thrown money at candidates, but money doesn’t motivate people anymore in hospitality. I don’t know why. It’s time off that people want, and a work-life balance. But there is no work-life balance in hospitality unless you’re working in a venue that does breakfasts only, say, because you have to commit to weekends and late nights. That’s the way it is.” He’s a fairly pragmatic chap too and tries not to dwell on that which he can’t change. “VAT at 5% is great but it’s going to go up and once it does go back up, it’s going to hit us hard, so they need to look at that. But there’s no point in dwelling on what I can’t control. All I can control is my staff and my product so I just have to get on with it.” And with that, I left him doing what he loves doing - running his bars and restaurants with an eye to building his empire. DRAM SEPTEMBER 2021 15

WM GRANT & SONS 2021 BAR APPRENTICES We caught up with the second set of our 12 William Grant & Sons 2021 Bar Apprentices this month. Experts representing Hendrick’s, Discarded, Monkey Shoulder and Glenfiddichtook them through their paces and all the bar apprentices completed their experience with a cocktail competition. The winner will be announced at the Scottish Bar & Pub Awards on 7th September. Here’s what they had to say…

DRAM AWARDS

Aiden McCurley is 25 and has worked at Finsbay Flatiron on Woodlands Road in Glasgow for three years. He said, “I enjoyed hearing from the brand ambassadors that have been doing the job for a while but still have so much passion for what they do. “Calum Fraser showed us how to use fruit skins and other unusual ingredients in cocktails that would have been binned otherwise and this was really eye-opening. He also made lime concentrate and citrus oil. The programme encourages you to look at the industry and your day-to-day job in a different way and this has made me even more passionate about what I do.”

Chris Penguin is French he’s been working at The Spiritualist in Glasgow for the four years he’s been living in Scotland. He loved the programme. “It was a good refresher and served as a reminder as to why I am in this industry and why I want to pursue a career in hospitality. “I really enjoyed the talks given by the brand ambassadors, they were all enriching and it was like going back to school – but a lot more fun! “It was excellent hearing about all the processes that go into making spirits and being shown how to make drinks to as high a standard as possible and always with a focus on providing the best customer service too, of course.”

Alanna Beattie, 24, has been at The Hillhead Bookclub for a year and a half and she loved learning about what goes on behind the scenes. “I loved learning all about how whisky is distilled and the backstory of each spirit - particularly Hendrick’s Gin. “It also helped me to be more confident in believing in my own abilities and has sparked something in me I didn’t realise was there - experimenting with creating new drinks and expanding the knowledge I already have. It was also great to meet other bartenders and hearing their stories. I’d like to go down the brand ambassador route in the future.”

Ben Boyd, 21, has worked at the Vic’s and The Vine in Prestwick for two years. He said, “I wasn’t sure what to expect but I learned so much about brands and their production process. It really opened my mind to all the variety of drinks and the industry and what you can do with different drinks. “I loved how enthusiastic and passionate the brand ambassadors were – like The Hendrick’s Gin brand ambassador Sarah Berardi. She started out working in a bar in Dundee and her entire story was pretty inspiring to me. “I would definitely recommend the Bar Apprentice programme. It’s a good few days of intense training that’s also fun and relaxed.”

Laura Higgins, 27, has worked at Angles in Uddingston for three years. She said, “It was really good. I was quite nervous about meeting new people and not really sure of what was going to happen but they were all really, really welcoming. “The brand ambassadors’ passion was infectious and I learned a lot of things that I am already applying to my job – like making fresh gommes and having the confidence to experiment and be creative to make the perfect cocktail using trial and error. “I plan to stay in hospitality and own my own place - a restaurant would be my ultimate goal.”

The Commercial Hotel in Wishaw is where Ryan Gower, 23, has worked for the last four years. He said, “It was my first time ever attending anything like this, so I was nervous, but they were all friendly, welcoming and fun. “I used to see whisky as whisky, but it’s a lot more versatile. I learned that it’s not always smoky and burny on the throat, for example, and that each one has different characteristics. “I enjoyed hearing the ambassadors’ experiences, like Calum Fraser making up his own sugar syrups, liqueurs and cordials with a focus on sustainability. That was really inspirational, as was changing up cocktails, and learning that there are no set rules - you can improvise.” 16

DRAM SEPTEMBER 2021

DRAM AWARDS

7TH SEPTEMBER 2021 THE FINALISTS

WWW.SCOTTISHBARANDPUBAWARDS.COM

DRAM AWARDS

DOG FRIENDLY PUB OF THE YEAR

CUSTOMER SERVICE AWARD

DOG FRIENDLY PUB OF THE YEAR

The Applebank Inn Larkhall

The Forth Inn Aberfoyle

Howlin’ Wolf Glasgow

Platform 1864 Tain

The Inver Inn Tain

Radisson Red Glasgow

Zinfandel Gastro Bar Glasgow

Siberia Aberdeen

WHISKY GURU OF THE YEAR

COCKTAIL BAR OF THE YEAR

DOG FRIENDLY PUB OF THE YEAR

Andy Robertson Oranmor

Tom Gibson The Glasshouse

Derek Mather, Artisan

Euan McMillan Ben Nevis

DRAM SEPTEMBER 2021

The Gate Glasgow

Radisson Red Glasgow

Lido Troon

DRAM AWARDS

EMERGING ENTREPRENEUR OF THE YEAR DOG FRIENDLY PUB OF THE YEAR

COMMUNITY PUB OF THE YEAR DOG FRIENDLY PUB OF THE YEAR

David Brown The Palais, Glasgow

Stuart McPhee Siberia, Aberdeen

The Black Bull Gartmore

Nine Maidens Dundee

Billy Milligan Finsbay, Milngavie

Adam Newth, The Tayberry, Broughty Ferry

The Palais Glasgow

Silverwing Edinburgh

INDEPENDENT PUB GROUP OF THE YEAR DOG FRIENDLY PUB OF THE YEAR

Cru Holdings, Aberdeen

Macmerry Group, Dundee

The Winged Ox Ltd, Glasgow

CONNOISSEURS CHOICE WHISKY BAR OF THE YEAR DOG FRIENDLY PUB OF THE YEAR

The Abbey Newington

Artisan Wishaw

The Malt Room, Inverness

The Pot Still Glasgow DRAM SEPTEMBER 2021 19

DRAM AWARDS

MANAGER OF THE YEAR DOG FRIENDLY PUB OF THE YEAR Tony Craig, Black Ivy, Edinburgh

Scott Henderson, The Record Factory, Glasgow

Katie Moran, Grand Central, Champagne Bar, Glasgow

NEW BAR OF THE YEAR DOG FRIENDLY PUB OF THE YEAR

OLD TOM GIN 1821 HOTEL BAR OF THE YEAR DOG FRIENDLY PUB OF THE YEAR

Dalmahoy Hotel & Country Club, Kirknewton

Greywalls Hotel, Gullane

Meldrum House Hotel, Oldmeldrum

The Marine Hotel, Troon

RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR DOG FRIENDLY PUB OF THE YEAR

The Bull, Glasgow

Coast, The Gailes, Irvine

The Dapper Mongoose, Glasgow

The Fox & Willow, Ayr

Lithgow’s, Greenock

Moskito, Glasgow

The Inver Inn, Tain

Kinneuchar Inn, Kilconquhar

DRAM SEPTEMBER 2021

DRAM AWARDS

EVOLUTION AWARD

AWARD FOR SUSTAINABILITY

DOG FRIENDLY PUB OF THE YEAR

The Fort, Broughty Ferry

The Golf Inn, Ladybank

The Locale, Glasgow

BEST OR MOST IMPROVED OUTSIDE AREA DOG FRIENDLY PUB OF THE YEAR

The Brig & Barrel, Belhaven

The Buf, Prestwick

The Smoking Goat, Ayr

Derby Lane, Glasgow

Joseph Pearce, Edinburgh

The Oak Tree Inn, Balmaha

Tiki Bar, Glasgow

SALES REP OF THE YEAR DOG FRIENDLY PUB OF THE YEAR

Harry Olounda, Halewood

Matt Lambert, Jaegermeister

Marc McParland, Arbikie DRAM SEPTEMBER 2021 21

BAR APPRENTICE 2021

We supply coffee and fabulous looking coffee machines to many UK licensed outlets, cafés, hotels and independent retail outlets.

This year’s candidates:Becca Macdonald, Hamilton’s, Edinburgh Cam Christie, Montpeliers, Edinburgh David Kalu, Ryan’s Bar, Edinburgh Jacob Channon, Biddy Mulligan’s, Edinburgh Euan Thomson, Scotts, South Queensferry Fraser Souness, Tylers Bistro, Edinburgh Aidan McCurley, Finsbay Flatiron, Glasgow Chris Penguin, The Spiritualist, Glasgow Alanna Beattie, The Hillhead Bookclub, Glasgow Ben Boyd,Vic’s and the Vine, Prestwick Laura Higgens, Angels, Uddingston Ryan Gower, The Commercial, Wishaw

Our other retail brands include:

LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD

Good luck to all the Finalists in this year’s Scottish Bar & Pub Awards

CHARITY ENDEAVOUR OF THE YEAR

INSPIRATIONAL EMPLOYEE OF THE YEAR

DRAM SEPTEMBER 2021

PUB OF THE YEAR

The Bellrock, The Bellrock Glasgow Glasgow

The Kings Arms Fenwick

Brig & Barrel Dunbar

The Thornwood Glasgow

The Awards take place on 7th September 2021 Venue: The Hilton Hotel, William Street Glasgow Time: 6.30PM Entertainment: Through dinner: Roberto Enzo Your compere for the evening: Bev Lyons After the Awards: Johnny Mac and The Faithful After Show Party The Radisson Red Sky Bar Michael Kilkie & Jon Mancini Guilty Pleasures Free Shuttle mini buses to Radisson Red

DRAM SEPTEMBER 2021

220 STONELAW ROAD, GLASGOW

LUCIANO’S DESIGN FOCUS

usband and wife team Anthony and Fallon Cowley of the Meraki Restaurant Group have debuted their refurbished Ciao Bella restaurant in Glasgow’s Burnside which they’ve now rebranded Luciano’s. Fallon left her role as operations director of the Manorview Hotels & Leisure Group in 2018 after 10 years to have a child, while Anthony, former property development director for the group, departed his role following the handover of the Redhurst Hotel refurbishment. Now the couple are concentrating on their own business and have been incredibly busy over the last few months, recently opening Cutler, Lobster & Steaks in Giffnock following a similar extensive refurbishment of the former Tribeca unit. They also own Cocktails and Steak in Uddingston, and Netherlee’s Mr. MacGregor’s, which opened in August 2020. Said Fallon, “I still can’t believe that we managed to open three new restaurants during a pandemic and in such a relatively short space of time.”

BY JASON CADDY They worked with Ecosse Signs on the Luciano’s project that began in July and even though Ciao Bella was turnkey condition when they purchased it, they decided that they wanted to makes some changes ahead of opening nevertheless. Said Fallon, “It was a restaurant that was good enough to open once we got the keys but we decided to put our own design stamp on it by bringing it into line with the rest of our units – more casual, rustic and traditional, yet funky.” Said Anthony, “Customers tell us that our venues have their own strong identity and this one is definitely part of the family and fits right into our portfolio, and this has a lot to do with the design as well as the customer service. “The project was straightforward enough. Some materials took a big longer to arrive than others because of the supply issues we’re all suffering from at the moment, so the entire project took around eight weeks to complete rather than the five weeks we’d originally earmarked.” DRAM SEPTEMBER 2021 25

Which part of the design is their personal favourite? Said Anthony, “It’s got to be the bar. It was a labour of love, from the build, to painting and creating the distressed look, and putting on the names of Italian pastas and flours to reflect the fact that our Italian chefs cook authentic Italian food.” Stunning transformations are what we’ve come to expect from Fallon and Anthony and this one doesn’t disappoint, so we’re giving this one a massive thumbs up. All the wood is so welcoming and gives Luciano’s a classy feel, while additions like the orange and brown leather chairs, the slatted tables, the wine racks, the foliage spilling out everywhere, the city-scape murals and the square chandelier lights all add a quirkiness and create an interior that’s that high end without being starchy or formal. 26

DRAM SEPTEMBER 2021

The mirrors create the illusion of more light and space in what is a fairly bijoux space that they have utilized incredibly well. And Anthony’s so right about the bar – it catches your eye with its distressed painted finish and drawers, as do the wall ties, the exposed stone and the glass shelves behind the bar. They all gel so incredibly well together. The outside area has a grass carpet and is surrounded by a neat hedge and the orange chairs look great against all the green – another example of no corner or detail being overlooked in this project. Fallon and Anthony like to keep busy and are always percolating with lost of ideas, so I’m sure that we’ll be making this a design feature hat trick in the coming months. Watch this space.

It was a pleasure to have been involved in the refurbishment of Lucianoʼs Burnside. We wish Fallon and Anthony all the best for the future. INTERIOR & EXTERNAL SIGNS · VEHICLE GRAPHICS · BANNERS · DIGITAL WALLPAPER · LED LIGHTS · 3D LETTERS Unit A, Cubit Court, Belgrave Cental, Bellshill ML4 3PS T: E:

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Branding Scotland one sign at a time DRAM SEPTEMBER 2021 27

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DRAM SEPTEMBER 2021 29

SUE SAYS!

@dramscotland

/dram.scotland

had a surprise phonecall this week from the lovely Petra Wetzel the power behind WEST Beer and Brewery - she told me that she is handing over that power to her next in command Matt Munro who will now takeover as Managing Director from September. That was a bolt out of the blue... we only had lunch a few weeks ago - and she was on top form, and still is. That’s why, she tells me she is “retiring” and will be very much hands-off going forward. Anyone that knows Petra knows that she is a powerhouse vivacious, tenacious, adventurous and driven - when she puts her mind to do something there is no stopping her. And having put the business on a firm footing she plans to put that energy into outside interests. She said, “I have never been in such a good place and I want to make the most of every minute. There is an excellent team at WEST and I am leaving it in very good hands. It is now time for me to hand the reins over to the next generation.” But do not think for one minute that Petra is putting her slippers on - she is looking for fresh challenges. It is no coincidence that she

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DRAM SEPTEMBER 2021

has a quote from Amelia Earhart on her business cards - she has a newfound hobby - flying. Next month I hope to sit down and enjoy a long lunch with Petra and find out more. Watch this space. The awards are fast approaching and I am looking forward to seeing some old friends and making some new ones. All the award winners will be in the next issue. Every year I say everyone is a winner for getting to the finals - but this year I think everyone still standing is a winner. But our awards are mainly voted for by customers and it is great when they take the time to put forward their favourite pubs. Roll on 7th September. We have changed the venue from the Cranside to the Hilton and although I am very disappointed because I think it would have been great there. A risk assessment threw up some wee issues which I would not take the risk with - I didn’t somebody breaking their neck on their way to pick up a trophy. That would not have been great PR for anyone. And talking of PR - I understand from licensees that some suppliers have chosen to set minimum order amounts, but one has set the bar at £500. I can totally understand why there needs to be a minimum order - especially with the current shortage of drivers, but does it have to be that high? It may only equate to four kegs but that combined with a decision, by the same brewer, to rule out split cases will have a significant effect on the cash flow of smaller operators who need all the support they can get. I can see buying groups coming back into fashion. I do hope they reconsider and at the very least reverse the decision on split cases. I have spoken to quite people over the last few weeks who have said they feel that this period is actually significantly more stressful than lockdown. From day to day they don’t whether they will have to close or not. Most people are in the same boat. I really hope we get stress free time soon.

DRAM DRINKS RETAILING AND MARKETING PUBLISHED BY MEDIA WORLD LIMITED t: 01560 600585 e: news@mediaworldltd.com w: dramscotland.co.uk Publisher-Editor Susan Young • Editor Jason Caddy • Chairman Noel Young • Advertising Nikki Oji, Syliva Forsyth Production Fiona Gauld, • Account Rebecca Orr The publishers, authors and printers cannot accept liability for errors or omissions. Any transparencies or artwork will be accepted at owner’s risk. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of the copyright holder and publisher, application for which should be made to the publisher. Articles published in this magazine do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publishers. © Media World Limited 2021 Printed by Stephens & George Print Group.

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