DRAM 376 March 2022 by DRAM Scotland

DRAM

376

DRINKS RETAILING AND MARKETING

@dramscotland

ROKU GIN BLOSSOMS AT TIGERLILY

DRAM MAGAZINE ISSN 1470-241X MARCH 2022

/dram.scotland

DRAM DRINKS RETAILING AND MARKETING

WELCOME

elcome to our March issue. It feels like we are slowly getting back to normal and having been out and about over the last few weeks it is good to hear that your customers are returning in their droves. Here’s hoping that trend continues. And talking of trends this issue we take a look at wine trends ahead of the upcoming trade show organised by Inverarity-Morton. We also celebrate the Ubiquitous Chip’s 50th anniversary and take a look at The Fox in Troon and Bertie Mooney’s in Dundee. St Paddy’s Day has always been a highlight for me - I’ve spent many a day at Jinty’s in Glasgow. I am delighted to hear that the bar will be open in time for this celebratory day. The good news is that pubs will no doubt get a full weekend out of the celebrations too. We have confirmed the date of our 2022 Awards - they will take place on the 30th August - so put the date in your diary. Next month we will reveal all the categories and our sponsors. See you next month. Susan Young Editor susan@mediaworldltd.com dramscotland.co.uk

@dramscotland

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CONTENTS

March

2022

FEATURES

OUR MICHELIN STARS

A focus the chefs who have done Scotland proud in this years Michelin Guide.

FOCUS: THE UBIQUITOUS CHIP CELEBRATING 50 YEARS.

DESIGN FEATURE: THE FOX, TROON.

DESIGN FOCUS: BERTIE MOONEY’S DUNDEE

REGULARS

4 27 30

NEWS

All the news from around the trade.

THE ELEPHANT IN THE ROOM Dawn Campbell looks at mental health in hospitality.

SUE SAYS

Our own Editor has her say.

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MONTGOMERY BEGINS FRESH CHAPTER Stephen Montgomery has closed the Townhead Hotel in Lockerbie after eight years at the helm. He sold it to a private buyer and it will now cease operating as a hospitality venue. He said of the sale, ”My priority was always to find a new operator for the Hotel so that it could continue to serve the community. Unfortunately, the economic circumstances have been challenging and it has not been possible to find an appropriate buyer who would continue to operate the Hotel in the interests of the community.” During his time owning The Townhead Stephen appeared in and won TV’s Four in a Bed, and he also transformed the hotel with a series of refurbishments – the last just after lockdown. Over the last two years, he has also been the spokesperson for the Scottish Hospitality Group, and will continue in that role, as hospitality starts to plan its recovery. He says, “Hospitality is my life and my passion, and I am looking to the future with new projects and passions, including doing some consultancy, and opening a new restaurant. There will be more on that in the weeks ahead, and I look forward to welcoming friends - old and new when it opens” Before thanking his staff and customers, saying, “I am so deeply grateful to everyone who has made The Townhead Hotel’s success possible. My heartfelt and sincere thanks to all staff - past and present - who I consider friends and who have been the backbone of the Hotel. My thanks to our customers. It has been the greatest privilege to serve you.”

EDINBURGH GETS SET TO WELCOME KA PAO Scoop Restaurants will open Ka Pao Edinburgh on the 21st of March on level 4 at St James Quarter. The announcement comes hot on the heels of the news that the Michelin Guide has just awarded Ka Pao Glasgow with a coveted Bib Gourmand award in the 2022 guide. (see our feature). Head Chef Sandy Browning says, “The vibe at Ka Pao is pretty fun and relaxed. It’s really welcoming and there’s something for everyone. If travel and money were no object, my ideal night out would be at a night market, struggling with the humidity and inhaling intoxicating scents, and eating whatever I’m offered. The setting here might be starkly different but the idea of sharing food with people you like, surrounded by noise and buzz is something pretty universal. The opening menu at Ka Pao will be on-the-whole in keeping with what we offer in Glasgow. It’s a collection of dishes we love to cook and eat. We’re not trying to replicate any particular regional cuisine but I think it’s clear where our influences have shaped the food we cook.” Head Chef Sandy has been at Ka Pao’s helm since it’s inception as a pop-up residency in Glasgow’s SWG3, and now leads the Edinburgh kitchen. General Managers Lily Maclean and Paige Wilson will oversee the operation, with over 40 new roles having been created. Says Lily, “We already know what Ka Pao can be at its core, but the St James crew will really put their stamp on the place. Sandy’s so excited to be back in Edinburgh where he grew up and that energy is totally infectious.” 4

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MARCH LAUNCH FOR NEW SEAFOOD VENUE - SHUCKS The team behind Michelin starred Cail Bruich, Epicures and Brett will open their latest venue Shucks Seafood Restaurant & Bar on 30th March in what was formerly Nick’s in Hyndland. Paul and Chris Charalambous, co-owners of Cail Bruich, Brett and Epicures, are continuing their partnership with itison founder, Oli Norman who previously operated Epicures and Nick’s. Shucks will also boast a bar and outdoor terrace, and the food will include the very best produce from Scottish waters with the chefs planning to cook seafood over fire, as well as do their own in-house curing and smoking.

IT’S STREET BURGER TIME FOR RAMSAY IN SCOTLAND Gordon Ramsay Street Burger will be opening its first Scottish based restaurant at Edinburgh’s St James Quarter. However, the Gordon Ramsay team are elevating the concept for the Edinburgh branch, bringing a games lounge, DJ booth and interiors designed by Russell Sage Studio. Nick Peel, Managing Director at St James Quarter, commented, “It’s been a big week for St James Quarter with a number of iconic brands confirmed to be joining the family. We are delighted that Gordon Ramsay has chosen a flagship space within The Quarter for Street Burger’s Scottish debut.”

NEWS REFRESH FOR BEACH BAR The Beach Bar Aberdeen reopened recently with a new look, a new cocktail bar a new Sports bar, a VIP area with a great view onto the beach, and a host of great games for customers indeed it describes itself as “Scotland’s first competitive socialising venue.” The venue, which was originally opened in 2020, has been given a £500K makeover which includes a complete refresh plenty of neon, street art, the VIP area also has an incredible view. The owners have now introduced crazy pool, skeeball, shuffleboard, axe throwing, digital beer pong and more.

CRABSHAAK SET FOR WEST END

GAUCHO MAKES ITS GLASGOW DEBUT Rare Restaurants opened its first Glasgow venue Gaucho earlier this month, five years after its first Gaucho opened in Edinburgh. The new bar and restaurant at 7 West Nile Street, managed by Keir Beckwith, is the first restaurant in Scotland to serve exclusively ‘Carbon Neutral Steaks’. The new 120 cover venue, serves Gaucho’s Argentine Beef but the carbon emissions in its offering have been reduced at source, then calculated from field to fork at source before being offset through a reforestation programme in the Amazon with charity partner ‘Not For Sale’ who rescue victims from the threat of ‘modern-day slavery’ to plant trees for GAUCHO - “producing a ‘Carbon Neutral’, truly guilt-free steak offering.” The stylish restaurant and bar which has been designed to easily transition from day to night was designed by DesignLSM who have designed other Gaucho venues, but this time they say the new Glasgow venue, “speaks to its locality as well as illustrating the evolution of the Gaucho brand; illustrating the restaurant group’s vibrancy, elegance, and passion for Argentina’s rich cultural and culinary heritage.” Greene King will open their latest pub called The Bakehouse, at 510 Great Western Road, Glasgow, in what was most recently Al Jefe, but which was probably best known as The Crafty Pig. The pubco has been given the green light to refurbish the venue, put in a new bar, creating new seating and balustrade.

John Macleod is getting set to open his second Crabshaak in Glasgow’s Vinicombe Street in the former Botanics garage, which is also home to Ka Pao. Plans for the restaurant were put into play more than two years ago, and fans of the original CrabShaak in Finnieston have been anticipating the opening.

SIX BY NICO FOR ABERDEEN This Spring Nico Simeone will bring his Six by Nico dining concept to Aberdeen. This opening will mark the entrepreneurs move into double figures – Aberdeen will be his 10th restaurant in his Simeone Group. The new Union Street restaurant, on the site of the former Topolabamba restaurant, is being designed by Burns Design and will serve a brand new six-course tasting menu every six weeks, with each one themed on a different place, memory, or idea. Chef Nico Simeone said, “During the pandemic, we launched our Home by Nico dining range on HOME-X - our home delivery experiences - and the appetite in Aberdeen and surrounding areas was strong, making it an obvious choice for our first restaurant site outside of Scotland’s central belt due to its thriving foodie community.“Expansion into Aberdeen signals our first move into Scotland’s North East and a significant step in our plan to grow further this year. In the nine locations where we operate in the UK and Ireland, we have quickly established an enthusiastic base of repeat customers, and we intend to and look forward to doing the same in Aberdeen”

A NEW ERA FOR FESTIVAL

Greene King has opened Festival in what was formerly Lebowski’s on Morrison Street in Edinburgh. Lebowski’s closed two years ago, but now the brewer and pub operator has given the building a new lease of life and has re-established a former name – it was known as The Festival Tavern until 2009 before it was leased out to Kained Holdings for their Lebowski’s brand. The bar has been totally refurbished and it now also has a ‘secret’ beer garden located to the rear. It’s General Manager is Eilish Sanders. DRAM MARCH 2022 5

BRAND NEWS COVER STORY

THE ROKU GIN JAPANESE GARDEN LAUNCHES AT TIGERLILY

BEER Jump Ship no-alcohol beer Scottish launch Jump Ship Brewing, founded by Sonja Mitchell, is going from strength to strength with recent listings including Buzzworks, Bonnie & Wild and Fhior. The brand which was created by Sonja out of a love of beer and a horror of hangovers launched with Yardarm lager in December 2019 and subsequently won a Gold medal at the World Beer Awards. The company now has a full-time brewer Pete Sharp, and the company has recently enlisted the support of Jenny Elliott, the drinks consultant, who is tasked with a further push into the Scottish premium on-trade market. Her first success is securing a listing for the brand at Buzzworks Scotts’ restaurants, all of which are beside the water. Sonja’s next focus will be the build of her no-lo brewery just outside Edinburgh later this year. She says, “We want to do great things as well as brew great beers. We have committed 10% of profits to charity and brew our beers as sustainably as possible.” The next beer to hit the shelves is a no-alcohol fruity summer sour. Meanwhile, Sonja was a ‘Scottish Edge’ winner in December 2021 winning a share of the £1.5 million prize pot having been judged by a panel of Scottish business experts.

CHEF TONY SINGH BREWS UP RANGE OF BEERS Scottish singer, songwriter and SAY Award Finalist, Emma Aika, also known as Aiitee, officially opened the ROKU Gin Japanese Garden at Tigerlily earlier this monthand it will now remain in place until mid June, guests can enjoy the stunning Japanese Garden complete with cherry blossom decor and an Instagram-worthy entrance. A limited edition cocktail menu created by Joey Medrington, Bar Development Manager, boasts delicious serves such as the ’Sakura Blossom Spritz’ - Roku Gin with Cherry Blossom, Ume Plum, Yuzu & White Tea Soda topped with pink candy floss and the ‘Fuji Mountain Swizzle’ - Roku Gin with Asian Pear, Yuzu Sake and Wild Mint. Along with a line-up of events from now through Spring, guests can sample a tasty, sweet and savoury afternoon tea alongside cherry blossom wreath making with Wild and an exclusive cocktail masterclass hosted by James Bowker from House of Suntory, with more to be announced soon. 6

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Chef Tony Singh has announced the launch of a range of beers working in collaboration with Scottish Brewery of the Year, Fierce Beer. This is Singh’s first foray into the drinks market. Tony explains, “I’ve been looking to create something different and felt there was a gap in the market for a range of premium beers with a distinctly Indian twist that are great on their own but could also complement curries. I wanted to have a bit of fun with ingredients and flavours, and I feel we’ve created two cracking launch beers that will have everyone talking.” Managing Director of Fierce Beer, Dave Grant said; “We’re proud to be producing this range for Tony and we feel there’s nothing else quite like it in the marketplace. We know consumers are looking for something different and aren’t afraid to be experimental, so we believe these beers will be well received.”

BREWER OF SCOTLAND’S FAVOURITES

@ BELHAVENBREWS B elhaven.co.uk

BEST ENJOYED RESPONSIBLY

NOW YOU’RE TALKING

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WE SERVE TALENT

Focused on people and quality, HOSPO is a recruitment agency founded by experienced hospitality professionals who are passionate about giving the finest talent a platform to shine. OUR TEAM ARE READY TO HELP: David Lockett: david@hospotalent.com Fraser McIllwraith: fraser@hospotalent.com

Find us at hospotalent.com 8

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OUR MICHELIN STARS... BY NICOLA YOUNG

The Michelin Guide revealed its awards last month with Scotland’s restaurants shining across the board with most retaining their awards from previous years but Scotland excelled this year with restaurants in Glasgow and Crieff gaining one Michelin Star and two new restaurants became Bib Gourmands. This issue we celebrate with brief biographies of the chosen few.

2 STARS

Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles - Stevie McLaughlin

It was at One Devonshire in Glasgow, over 26 years ago, that Stevie began his working relationship with Andrew Fairlie that lead him to Restaurant Andrew Fairlie. In 2006, that Restaurant Andrew Fairlie became one of only 11 restaurants in the UK to gain 2 Michelin stars, and that it has retained ever since. Stevie rose to head chef in 2001 before taking over the restaurant in December 2018 to continue Andrew’s lifelong work. He sadley died in 2019.The restaurant focuses on Scottish produce and making the most of the country’s natural environment. GM Dale Dewsbury also received a special award for the restaurant from Michelin for Welcome and Service.

NEW ONE STAR Unalome by Graeme Cheevers, Glasgow

In Buddhism, the Unalome means the path to enlightenment and Chef Patron Graeme Cheevers is certainly enlightening and uplifting Glasgow diners. He has brought only the second Michelin star to Glasgow in 19 years but he is no stranger to the Michelin guide, having won the industry’s ultimate accolade at both Martin Wishart at Loch Lomond and Isle of Eriska Hotel. He said he would aim to get a Michelin star for Unalome in his first year, and he did just that. He got his break at 21, when he was offered a commis position at Michelin-starred chef Martin Wishart’s Loch Lomond and, after becoming head chef two years later, he retained the restaurant’s star the following year, and did so for another five years. In 2018, Graeme took on the role of head chef at The Isle of Eriska Hotel, where he was awarded a star in the Michelin Guide in 2020. Unalome, in Glasgow’s Finneston, marks a return home to Glasgow for Graeme.

The Glenturret Lalique, Crieff – Mark Donald

Set within The Glenturret Distillery – Scotland’s oldest working whisky distillery – the Glenturrent Lalique is a collaboration between the distillery and luxury French glassmaker, Lalique. It becomes the first distillery to win a Michelin star. Two of the crystal makers' chandeliers decorate the restaurant and Lalique created the restaurant's bespoke glass and tableware. Head Chef Mark Donald, came to The Glenturret Lalique after training with Andrew Farilie at Gleneagles and working at Noma in Copenhagen before heading to Australia and the Bentley Restaurant in Sydney. On his return he joined Number One at The Balmoral, retaining the restaurant's star for two and a half years until he left to join The Glenturret Lalique in early 2021. Speaking about the Michelin achievement, Chef Mark Donald said: “I am so proud that Michelin have acknowledged the hard work, creativity and dedication from my team - and everyone at The Glenturret. Our Scottish heritage and surroundings are vital to the heart and soul of the restaurant.” The restaurant's 420-bin wine list is partly comprised of a collection from co-owner Silvio Denz' own vineyards, and sits alongside a Whisky Bar. The Bar houses Scotland’s finest whiskies taken from within and outside of the archive of The Glenturret. Its 250 whiskies include coveted rarities such as The Glenturret 35 Year Old 1977 and a Port Ellen 18 Year Old 1979 Silent Stills Signatory.

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Retained one star Cail Bruich, Glasgow - Lorna McNee Cail Bruich became the first Glasgow restaurant for 18 years to gain a Michelin in 2021 before retaining it again this year.. Cail Bruich, sitting in the heart of the West End, means ‘to eat well’ and head chef Lorna McNee spent 12 years working with Andrew Fairlie at the time when he won the first Michelin star in Scotland. Lorna also became the Champion of Champions on Great British Menu in 2019 before joining Cail Bruich at the end of 2020 and picking up her own Michelin star in her first year there. The restaurant offers two tasting menu’s that change in with the Scottish seasons and use ingredients that are local and sustainable, and sometimes these come from their own kitchen garden.

Castle Game are proud to supply The Glenturrent Lalique. We congratulate Mark Donald and his team on their recent Michelin Star.

www.castlegame.co.uk Tel: 07791 673060

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Condita, Edinburgh - Conor Toomey Unlike the other two Michelin starred restaurants in Edinburgh that are in Leith, Condita is located near Prestonfield Golf Club, just outside the city centre. Head Chef is Conor Toomey, and prior to Condita, he was at Isle of Eriska, which also earned a Michelin star in the 2020 guide under chef Graeme Cheevers. Condita offers a set ‘surprise tasting menu and Conor describes his style as fluid, his cuisine has been influenced by his own chef mentors as well as an affinity for Asian flavours.

The Kitchin, Leith - Tom Kitchin Chef-proprietor Tom Kitchin was born and bred in Edinburgh and he is Scotland's youngest ever recipient of a Michelin star. He opened The Kitchin with his wife Michaela in 2006 and within six months of opening, The Kitchin was awarded a Michelin star. Highland game is a speciality, as is his ‘Rockpool’ dish of fresh local seafood.

Left to right: Lorna McNee, Tom Kitchen, Martin Wishart, Sandy Browning, Stefano Pieraccini

Loch Bay, Isle of Skye - Michael Smith

Bib Gourmand Restaurants:

Michael Smith opened his first solo restaurant with his wife Laurence, Loch Bay in early 2016 and the restaurant describes itself as 'contemporary Scottish with French influences'. Before opening Loch Bay, Michael was at Three Chimneys for 11 years. Also on Skye, it was here, as Chef Director, that he won his first Michelin star in 2014. They said on Facebook, “We are ecstatic to have retained our star for the 4th year running. Thank you “

UK-wide there are 16 new Bib Gourmand restaurants in the 2022 Michelin Guide and three of them are in Scotland. There are two new Scottish additions, and both are in Glasgow, Celentano’s and Ka Pao. Bib Gourmands are awarded to restaurants offering particularly good quality, good value cooking.

Martin Wishart, Leith Martin Wishart has now been in Leith for over 20 years and his restaurant also called Martin Wishart has also retained its Michelin star. Edinburgh-born Martin spent his early years working in the kitchens of some of the best known names including Albert Roux and Marco Pierre White and although this forms the classical French base of his cooking he uses the best Scottish ingredients from Shetland squid to Peterhead skate.

The Cellar, Anstruther - Billy Boyter Billy Boyter hails from Anstruther. His parents helped him buy The Cellar in 2013 when Billy was Head Chef at another Michelin-starred establishment, No 1 Restaurant at the Balmoral Hotel in Edinburgh. He opened in 2014 and gained his first Michelin star in 2016 and has retained it ever since. The Cellar, a 17th century smokey and cooperage, was already well known having been run by Peter Jukes who had the restaurant for more than 30 years.

The Peat Inn, Fife - Geoffrey Smeddle Chef Patron Geoffrey Smeddle arrived in Scotland in 2003 when he became head chef at the newly opened Étain in Princes Square, Glasgow, working for Sir Terence Conran. Before this he has been at the Four Season Hotel in Chicago. In 2006 Geoffrey moved to The Peat Inn as Head Chef and owner, winning his first Michelin star in 2010 and holding it every year since. He runs The Peat Inn with his wife, Katherine.

Celentano’s is situated Cathedral House, a Baronial style boutique hotel built in 1896, next to the historic Glasgow Cathedral and overlooking the Glasgow Necropolis. Shane and Laura McKenzie purchased the hotel in October 2018 and last year Chef Dean Parker and wife Anna took over the restaurant and created a Italian-inspired dining venue which has been incredibly well received. Ka Pao in Glasgow’s West end (and recently opening a restaurant in Edinburgh) is owned by Scoop Restaurants and it was noted for its Asian-inspired cooking. Head Chef Sandy Browning has been at Ka Pao’s helm since it’s inception as a popup residency in Glasgow’s SWG3, and now leads the Edinburgh kitchen. Restaurants who have retained their Bib Gourmand include Tom and Michaela’s Bonnie Badger in Gullan and their The Scran & Scallie in Edinburgh. Also in Edinburgh are Stuart Ralston’s Noto, the Merienda in Stockbridge. In Glasgow, the Ox and Finch retain their Bib Gourmand along with Bearsden’s Monadh Kitchen and flying the flag for the Borders and also Argyle is Provender in Melrose and a former croft house, the Kilberry Inn in Kilberry. Three Scottish establishments were recognised by Michelin for their Green Star initiative, an annual award which highlights restaurants at the forefront of the industry when it comes to their sustainable practices. Michelin explains that these restaurants “offer dining experiences that combine culinary excellence with outstanding eco-friendly commitments and are a source of inspiration both for keen foodies and the hospitality industry as a whole”. The Inver in Strachur retains its green star award and their Chef, Pamela Brunton explains “Sustainability is the ground on which we build our business; it’s much more than a ‘subject’ to us. The people, landscape, plants and animals that guide and shape our menus are an ecosystem, in which we are one evolving part. If they don’t thrive, neither can we.” Both aizle in Edinburgh and Haar in St Andrews were also recognised for Green Star up-and-coming initiatives. The former for their hyper-seasonal tasting menu of local produce delivers virtually zero waste and the later for their Carbon neutral and zero waste initiatives. Last but not least, The Rocca Group have been added to the Michelin guide for all three of their East coast venues. Rico’s Ristorante, an upscale Italian restaurant in Edinburgh, joins The Rocca Group’s other two locations, The Seafood Ristorante in St Andrews and The Broughton in Edinburgh. The group is owned by Stefano Pieraccini DRAM MARCH 2022 11

WINE TRENDS FOR 2022 BY SUSAN YOUNG

OVER THE LAST TWO YEARS IT HAS CERTAINLY NOT BEEN EASY FOR THE TRADE BUT THE SUPPLIERS OF WINE HAVE HAD THEIR ISSUES TOO. NOT LEAST THE INITIAL PROBLEM AFTER LOCKDOWN WHEN THEY FOUND THEIR SUPPLY OF WINE CAUGHT UP IN THE CUSTOMS FIASCO. THIS ISSUE WE TAKE AN OVERVIEW OF THE WINE MARKET AND WHAT THE FUTURE HOLDS.

he UK wine industry generates £10.6 billion in sales and 81% of UK adults that drink alcohol drink wine according to figures from the Wine and Spirit Trade Association (“WSTA”). And Scots on average would account for £1.6bn of these sales. Alcohol sales did fall in 2020 and wine took a 5% hit, as online orders failed to make up for the closure of hospitality during the pandemic. Shipment costs and delays as well as container shortages, higher packaging costs and rising energy costs also continue to challenge the market. However according to analysts CGA Wine sales could be set for a revival in 2022 if suppliers and operators work together to tap into post-COVID-19 trends and revitalise consumers’ interest. CGA’s Drinks Recovery Tracker has shown that wine sales have lagged pre-pandemic levels since the hospitality sector reopened. but it highlighted five big trends for the year ahead. Innovation: With an ageing demographic of drinkers, the wine category urgently needs to recruit younger ones by generating fresh interest.CGA research shows that nearly two in three (62%) 18 to 34 year-olds like to keep up to date with the latest trends, so innovation will be the key here. Since other fashionable competitive categories like gin and craft beer are now well established in the minds of drinkers, the wine category can tap into new trends and position itself as a more interesting and on-trend drinks choice—but they will have to work creatively to trigger excitement among early adopters, without alienating older drinkers. Wine-based cocktails: Flourishing sales of cocktails since the reopening of pubs, bars and restaurants is opening up new opportunities for wine. Champagne, sparkling wine and rosé are particularly well positioned here, and with 18 to 34 year-olds heavily over-indexing on interest in them, spritzes and other wine-based cocktails could prove an effective gateway to the category in 2022. Sustainability: The environmental impacts of food and drink have been at the front of consumers’ minds this year. More than three quarters (77%) of wine drinkers say they try to lead environmentally friendly lifestyles, and they will be putting pressure on brands and retailers to up their game on sustainability in 2022. English wines are in pole position here, with their low carbon footprint, local sourcing and premium positioning all appealing to sustainabilityconscious drinkers. Organic, bio-dynamic and natural wines can also take advantage, though there is a clear need to educate consumers on these—a challenge that suppliers can help operators to meet. Flavoured wines: Categories like gin, vodka and hard seltzers have shown that twists on flavours can spark new interest among both existing and potential drinkers—especially younger adults. While sales of orange and other new flavoured wines are still low, targeted promotional activities and special offers could help lift them substantially next year. Cans: Interest in non-traditional wine serves has been growing 12

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since reopening, possibly because consumers have got used to new styles of packaging in the Off Premise during lockdowns. For example, awareness of wine in cans has risen by five percentage points over the last two years, and wine-based seltzers could grow this sub-category further. Health: There has also been a move towards wellness, health consciousness and environmental responsibility, this started to make an impact pre-pandemic but the last two years have done nothing to halt its progress. Consumers are increasingly focussing on ingredients, authenticity, self-care and the environment. For wine producers, this is a key driver behind the growth of the organic, biodynamic and low-intervention wine movement. Younger drinkers and particularly Gen Z are are more in alignment with environmental and social issues and they value brands with fit that picture. The wine industry is gradually catching up with consumer need, creating the necessary certifications to instil trust in their products. Organic certification is well established but to date, ‘natural wine’ has not been as clearly defined, but this is beginning to be addressed. The ‘Vin Méthode Nature’ charter was established in Marh 2020 and has laid the groundwork for a widely accepted certification of perhaps the most controversial element within the sustainable wine movement. Despite a relatively flat global wine market and higher average retail prices, certified-organic wine volume consumption has increased close to 9% on average a year. However, organic is not yet a truly global phenomenon: the top five organic wine markets – Germany, France, the UK, US, and Sweden – account for over 60% of global consumption and the top 10 account for 80%. Globally, organic’s share of total wine consumption sits at around 2.75%. This is expected to climb to around 4% by 2024. Throughout the pandemic, no- and low-alcohol products have performed strongly, and there is also an untapped opportunity here for wine. No- and low- alcohol wines currently represent a tiny fraction of global still and sparkling wine consumption – however, they are experiencing double-digit growth rates globally as brands invest in dealcoholisation processes and campaigns to increase consumer awareness. Ian Cumming, Commercial Director at Inverarity Morton told DRAM, “We have been talking about premiumisation and different varietals for a while but it is now happening. People are now looking for a better quality wine and not opting for the cheapest house wine - they are prepared to pay for a quality wine. “We have now brought in quality keg wines - ahead of the deposit return scheme, but also because they are more sustainable, there is no waste and there are good quality wines. We have also expanded some of our ranges for instance Sea Change - we now have a Sauvignon Blanc, two organic wines and a lo-alchol. He continues, “Ten years ago everyone had a house whisky or vodka, now few places do, and the same thing is happening with wine. It has never been the most dynamic sector in the trade, but the quality trend is certainly now making inroads. Things are changing and for the best.”

Contact your Inverarity Morton account manager or email us on explore.taste.love@inveraritymorton.com for more information DRAM MARCH 2022 13

incorporating the DRAM AWARDS

30 AUGUST

All the categories and sponsors next month. 14

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ST PADDY’S DAY IS ONE OF THE BEST LOVED DAYS IN THE PUB CALENDAR AND NOT JUST IN IRELAND ...AS YOU ALL KNOW. IT GIVES A REAL BOOST TO SCOTLAND’S TRADE TOO. AND THIS YEAR WE GET THE BENEFIT OF A NEARBY WEEKEND TOO.HERE ARE SOME FACTS TO SHARE WITH YOUR CUSTOMERS...

HOMAGE TO ST PATRICK’S DAY The larg es United t parade in the States, h eld sinc is in Ne e 17 w more th York City, and 62, draws an one million each ye spectato ar. rs

St. Patrick is the patron saint of Ireland, but he was born in Roman Britain which means he could have been born in Wales or Scotland! For many years, blue was the colour most often associated with St. Patrick. Green was considered unlucky. St. Patrick’s blue was considered symbolic of Ireland for many centuries and the Irish Presidential Standard is still blue. The colour green only became associated with the big day after it was linked to the Irish independence movement in the late 18th century.

Four leaf clovers are said to be lucky but the chance that you’ll ever find a four-leaf clover is 1 in 10,000. It is not even the symbol of Ireland, that is

Horsefeather Cocktail 1.5 measure of Jameson Irish Whisky top up with ginger beer and 3/4 dashs angostura bitters and a squeeze of lemon. Build over ice in a Collins glass.

traditionally a Harp.

St Patrick died on March 17 around 461AD, Saint Patrick’s Day was made an official Christian feast day in the early 17th century .but the first St Patrick’s Day parade didn’t take place until 1737 in Boston. It wasn’t until 1995, that the Irish government realised the tourism benefits of the day. Now about 1 million people converge on the cobbled streets of Dublin to enjoy St. Patrick’s Festival, a multi-day celebration with parades, concerts, outdoor theater productions, fireworks and of course, lots of pub crawling.

There are more Irish people living in the U.S. than in Ireland. The population of Ireland is roughly 4.2 million, but there are an estimated 34 million Americans with Irish ancestry.

In Chicago the river is dyed green for a few hours every St Pat’s Day.

In traditional Irish folk tales, there are no female leprechauns, only hard working little guys.

Ireland is kn own

as the Emera ld Isle becau se of how green it is.

Jameson’s Irish Whiskey is available in more than 120 countries and sells around 20 million bottles a year. It has the biggest share of the global Irish whiskey market. DRAM MARCH 2022 15

A FOCUS ON GLASGOW’S UBIQUITOUS CHIP AS IT CELEBRATES 50 YEARS! BY MARY MCGOWNE

ts arrival on Scotland’s restaurant scene in 1971 caused a sensation. Its choice of location was instrumental in the birth of what is now recognised as a cornerstone of Glasgow; Ashton Lane in the city’s West End. Its pioneering dining proposition introduced traceability and provenance to the public before such a movement existed. For the last 50 years, its very name has been a byword for authenticity, passion and personality. When Ubiquitous Chip - the longest-established family-owned restaurant in Glasgow, and one of the oldest in Scotland - was launched by Ronnie Clydesdale in 1971 the country’s culinary landscape was very different to how it looks today. The idea for the Chip as it is affectionately known (a crafty nod to the city’s enduring culinary preference), was a simple one; to celebrate the very best of Scottish produce. Now, as this much-loved Glasgow institution celebrates 50 years since it was founded by Ronnie, owners Colin Clydesdale, Ronnie’s son, and Carol Wright reflect on the remarkable history and journey of Scotland’s original pioneer of provenance. Ubiquitous Chip was originally located in Ruthven Lane in the first half of the 1970s, in what was a glorified electrician’s yard, before moving to Ashton Lane around five years later. These formative years clearly made a lasting impression on the young Colin. “One of my earliest memories is of sitting on an old box in the store room at Ruthven Lane with my shipbuilder grandfather, around the age of five, eating soup. He put pepper in the soup and I was amazed at the difference such a light touch of this mysterious powder made to the taste of the soup. From such a humble moment, an instant and lasting intrigue to the possibilities of taste was sparked. “Food has been omnipresent my entire life. My brother Ewan and I were brought up around it on a daily basis. Dad gave us a second to none education on food. He dragged us around the country, but there was never any snobbery; Glasgow’s first kebab shop, country house hotels, Michelin star restaurants – dad was researching the industry he had chosen to go in to.” It is a much-loved cornerstone of Ashton Lane now, with a ferocious reputation for its ‘Best of Scottish’ fare, award-winning wine curations, artist-adorned interiors and an eclectic patronage the stuff of legends including Michael Keaton, Billy Connolly, Kylie Minogue, Keira Knightley, Lewis Capaldi, Kelly Macdonald and Craig Ferguson (the latter two both former employees), but in 1976 it wasn’t so. Originally a former undertakers’ stables that took several months to make habitable, Ubiquitous Chip’s initial proposition on Ashton Lane in 1976 was a 50-seat downstairs restaurant operating under a bring your own license, and with what can best be described as an ad hoc approach to interior design, one such example being the Chip’s fish pond. Upstairs in the warehouse, famed Glaswegian designer and illustrator Ranald MacColl had a studio, as did well known florist Sandy Martin. With no money to pay his rent, an agreement was made for Ranald to build a pond in the Chip courtyard using a pile of discarded sandstone, traced back, as Colin says, “to Glasgow City Council’s hatred of beautiful Victorian architecture.” The Chip has enjoyed many configurations over the years, each evolution marked with marvellous tales of ingenuity and commonsense Glasgow gallus. In the 1980s, the Ubiquitous Chip Restaurant, with its intimate 50

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CELEBRATIN AT THE UBIQ covers, and located off what was then a large vacant courtyard, had an unconventional journey to expansion. Colin remembers: “The success of the Restaurant when we opened was instant, truly meteoric. Demand from Glasgow’s cultural cognoscenti clearly outstripped our capacity. Back then we had a public phone on the wall of the Restaurant, with its own table and chairs. One evening, two of our most loyal customers, Bruce Petty and Brian Coyle, when informed there was no space to accommodate their dining request simply picked up the phone box’s table and chairs, and placed them outside in the vacant courtyard. Henceforth, the Courtyard Restaurant was born! “The pond, built by Ranald, has subsequently been a scene of drama and delight over the years; Alasdair Gray painted a mural beside the pond, danced around the pond, and fell in the pond. On another occasion, the Chip’s handyman Brian Finnie dropped a pot of paint in it - cue colanders and sieves to retrieve the pot and (successfully) save the exotic fish. Brian was ok too.” It is food though which has always been the driving passion for Ubiquitous Chip. The concept of traceability punctuates many a restaurant’s proposition these days – and is to be commended - but the Chip was flying a largely lone flag for it in Scotland 50 years ago. “No one else really did ‘provenance’ in the 1970s and 1980s”, Colin reflects. “We didn’t actually call it that back then but everything we presented at Ubiquitous Chip was locally sourced. Everything was Scottish. The ethos we prescribed to was on-point right from the get go, and is still at the core of what we do today.” “Extreme provenance might be a more appropriate description. We had handwritten menus for lunch, then handwritten menus again for dinner. Before every service we had to go into the kitchen to get the exact dish and ‘provenance’ from the chef. What farm supplied today’s lamb, what fisherman caught today’s squid, and so on. Back then there was a disconnect between locally sourced

NG HALF A CENTURY QUITOUS CHIP produce and what restaurants in Glasgow, and indeed Scotland, were offering to the public. It wasn’t a deliberate omission. The concept of provenance and traceability, as we know it today, just simply didn’t exist.” “The Chip still works with many of the same independent suppliers as it has for the last 50 years, who share the same values: John Vallance the fishmonger, John Gilmour the butcher, and others. We are proud to have stayed true to our beliefs and still push what are essentially humble Scottish ingredients through many of our dishes; neeps, barley, brambles and so on.” What is now The Brasserie upstairs was originally a storage room before becoming a function suite, and the scene of much wild patronage behaviour. “Merriment and mischief by our customers was de rigueur in the Chip through the 1980s and 1990s” says Colin.” It still is, of course, but back then it was something else. Rambunctious conversations, an unquenchable thirst for alcohol – brandy, port and Irish coffees in particular, cigar smoking, and legendary levels of debauchery. The norms of behaviour were pushed to new levels back then in the Chip. One well known television newsreader, who shall forever remain anonymous, would often get wildly intoxicated across an afternoon, get picked up by the studio car at 5.30pm and be on air for 6pm. A truly miraculous feat. The food came up on a hoist, which is still in place. To this day people come in to the Chip for lunch and stay for dinner.” Colin continues: “The Restaurant became enormously busy very quickly back then. Dad realised he needed a license and also needed wine knowledge to offer a standard of liquid that complemented the astounding quality of food being served by his chefs. He became a voracious reader on wine, reading enormous tomes and selfeducating to an almost evangelical degree on regions, vintages and food pairings.”

The Wee Pub was previously an off-sales created to showcase the wines The Chip offered (the black range cooker the wines were displayed on at the window is still there). The Big Pub upstairs, now a bustling all-ages den of chatter, with its roaring fire and sweeping drinks list, was only every meant to be a space serving as a precursor to dinner. It is with good reason Ubiquitous Chip has won many accolades for its extraordinary wine list. Indeed quite a few of those who have worked in the Chip became accomplished wine experts including Linda Rogers, Clare McPadden and Jean Thomson. When it comes to curating the Chip’s wine list, owner Carol Wright has always been the natural successor to Ronnie. While Colin is the food authority, it is Carol who is the Chip’s sommelier supremo. It is a passion and expertise born from a self-confessed unremarkable beginning. Carol acknowledges her initial lack of interest and understanding with refreshing honesty. “Yes, the wine list at Ubiquitous Chip is very much my comfort zone”, she says. “I feel incredibly passionate about the joy a great wine can bring, be it with food or otherwise. When I started working in the Chip, I didn’t really drink wine, I knew nothing about it. Ronnie was my gateway to its wondrous taste possibilities. He encouraged me to go on wine courses, saying everyone needed to know about wine! “I went to college to understand more, attended supplier wine tastings, and from these different avenues my idea of wine developed. Learning about wine became easy and a pleasure. At the end of a night’s shift in the Chip we would bring out wine, talk about it, have a singalong of Scottish folk songs – the staff, friends like Alasdair Gray and Eddie McConnell, the Oscar-winning filmmaker and cameraman. Everyone enjoying the unifying joy of great wine. “My love affair with wine has been like osmosis. I gravitate to passionate wine circles, enjoy trips to wineries immensely and am DRAM MARCH 2022 17

FOCUS heavily involved in the wine selection at Ubiquitous Chip. I can enjoy a quality budget wine as much a posh-priced bottle. There is no elitism in our approach to curating the Chip’s wine list. It is slick and well chosen, be it red, white, rosé and orange - new or old, traditional or avant garde. Personally, for me, a great white Burgundy is hard to beat. A properly made Old World will blow your socks off. And if push comes to shove, France edges it.” Character and style have been synonymous with Ubiquitous Chip over the last 50 years and a patronage by many of the country’s most esteemed arts and cultural figures enjoyed. The work of Alasdair Gray can be found throughout the building in the form of two remarkable murals. Florid Jungle, painted in 1976 at the same pond he subsequently danced around and fell in, is evocative of the Medditeranean-esque styling of the Courtyard Restaurant. Arcadia by Alasdair Gray is a vast mural framing the entire Restaurant to Brasserie staircase. It features Chip staff from across the years, local faces from the 1970s and Carol and Colin’s son Ruaraidh as a child. The first stage of Arcadia was completed in 1981 with Alasdair adding further characters in the subsequent years, before completing it around 2006. “It is an astonishing piece of work” says Colin. “As far as I can recall, dad and Alasdair sat down with a bottle of wine and hatched a plan. A democratic swap of some description was agreed, the exact details of which no one will ever know. That’s the way business was done back then. Alasdair was a very dear friend of the Chip. He would often sit with the staff at the end of the night and sketch them on napkins.” Proving that really great design stands the test of time, the late, great sculptor George Wyllie created the Ubiquitous Chip logo, with a bit of help from Shona Maciver, Founder of Locofoco Design who commissioned him to be involved. George’s sign, which he handmade, can be found mounted on the Chip exterior on Ashton Lane. Elsewhere, the work of Michael Lacey – a Glasgow School of Art graduate and former Chip employee – can be found on the stairway leading into The Big Pub. Commissioned by Colin and Carol in 2011 to mark the Chip’s 40th anniversary it features a history of Glasgow montage, and many of the Chip’s most colourful regulars. Michael is the only other artist to have been invited to create a piece of work for the building. Scottish and quirky, his work, much like Alasdair Gray’s is idiosyncratically “so Chip”. More recent additions include a one-off literary work by revered conceptual artist Jonathon Keats and Scottish Jamaican poet Jeda Pearl. The wall art will only be revealed in full in 50 years’ time. Equally striking are Carol Paterson’s paintings of Colonsay, a place 18

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Colin and Carol Clydesdale have been visiting “forever” and hold in great affection. A 50th anniversary is a timely opportunity for any business to reflect on its achievements, especially one that has survived the last two years, and Ubiquitous Chip is no exception. Glasgow’s West End may have changed beyond all recognition since 1971 – and Colin and Carol have tales aplenty of the local people and enterprises who made it special - but the Chip has been a reassuring constant throughout the passage of time and trends. “To get to 50 years as a restaurant is fantastic, incredible really”, he says. “To be here after the last two years is even more remarkable.” “Reflecting now, it was a golden education under these highly skilled, old-school chefs. They brought huge knowledge and ability to the kitchen, but also mayhem and lunacy.” “It was never mine or Carol’s expectation to go into the family business but being exposed over the years to how things are meant to be both in a kitchen and front of house, realising the team in the Chip was the real deal, clearly had a profound impact on both of us. We, and now our son Ruaraidh too who works in the Chip, embrace the sense that eating out is a cultural event where great ideas may occur around the sharing of a fine dinner. “Our menus have evolved enormously, food has evolved beyond recognition although our brilliant Head Chef Doug Lindsay and his team will be bringing back a few Chip hero dishes for the anniversary celebrations including Cullen Skink, Clapshot and Howtowdie. We even have self-cleaning ovens now! “What is clear is that dad’s original ethos of extolling the virtues of Scottishness, of sustaining people along the way with decency, benevolence and inclusivity, and never compromising on integrity, was spot on. The Chip became world class just by being itself. Dad really was a genius. The rules he causally laid down 50 years ago are still here, ubiquitously so.

JOHN VALLANCE The Seafood Experts Proud to Supply The Ubiquitous Chip. Happy 50th birthday to all the team. John Vallance, The Seafood Experts, Units D11-14, Glasgow Fish Market, 130 Blochairn Road, Glasgow, G21 2DU Telephone: 0141 552 2825 info@johnvallance.com

@dramscotland

DODGING POLITICS?

/dram.scotland

n my first column for The Dram I remember writing that I’d be dodging politics with a capital P. The best laid plans and all that… It’s now practically impossible to discuss any issue affecting the trade without becoming mired in a political argument. Supply chain? Brexit. Staffing issues? Ditto. Business rates? Inevitably ends up coming back to which party is running the local council. That’s before we get to the impact of the pandemic on the sector. Another discussion which will become political within 30 seconds. That’s nobody’s fault – to use my least favourite phrase, it is what it is. So with a sudden handbrake turn it’s time to talk more politics, not less. And here’s why. There’s a crisis in our city and town centres. I’ve written about it here before and it ain’t getting any better. You’ll see it if you look around anywhere in Scotland. It doesn’t apply to one single place. Gap sites, boarded up venues, empty commercial properties. Litter, dirt and neglect as far as the eye can see. Inadequate public transport – huge taxi queues with young people in the early hours of the morning unable to get home in freezing temperatures. It’s a situation which requires imagination, inspiration and hard work. But with a prize that’s so worth the winning. So where are the big ideas? Who do you trust in the Scottish political system to show the leadership and lateral thinking required to turn a problem into an opportunity? If you can answer that question hand on heart, then great. If you can’t, then here’s some interesting news. The very people responsible have their jobs up for renewal in just over a month and we get to decide who goes and who stays. Yes, it’s local election time. Usually this means little more than a big opinion poll conducted on the national and international issues du jour. Turnout is usually low and apathy can prevail. It’s remarkable, really, that in the 5G age the system is still paper and pencil with a trend-bucking requirement to be there in person. Last time round (2017) participation was up a whopping seven points to a bit more than 46 per cent – these were the first big local elections held after the independence and Brexit referenda. Folk still had a bit to get off their chests. This time round I’d like to see the trade become as involved as it can in the debate. The sector is a broad church but that doesn’t mean that – as one body - it can’t interrogate

manifestos and politicians, measuring which parties are taking the challenge of reinvigorating one of Scotland’s most important industries. This isn’t about telling people how to vote rather than making sure something more than lip service is paid by councils, which themselves benefit from high footfall, clean, safe environments and thriving night time economies. Let’s see the major parties challenged to show the imagination and determination required at this crucial juncture. Not just to turn up on the day and hope that the electorate go through the motions before voting out of habit. This might just be a bit of a moment for our entertainment sector. I hope it’s one that’s grasped with both hands. It’s been heartening to see so many pubs, clubs and restaurants around the country respond with heartfelt concern to the invasion of the Ukraine. Many places have felt the heartbreak all too vividly with Ukrainian colleagues past and present. Entertainment and hospitality offers a perspective like few others given the international nature of staffs. The response in the trade and far beyond has been admirable. A reminder of the Disasters Emergency Committtee Ukraine appeal page for anyone who feels able to do any more: https://www.dec.org.uk/appeal/ukraine-humanitarianappeal You’ll very rarely find me out any later than midnight but I did make an exception for the Super Bowl party in Glasgow’s Committee Room Nine, one of the city’s better kept secrets. The late license on a Sunday night separates the truly dedicated (and often American) from the casual fan and, as my own Cincinatti Bengals were in action, this was too good to miss. Edged out in the end by the Los Angeles Rams, the CR9 atmosphere was nonetheless impressive. Thought nothing will ever compare to the biggest roar the game has produced in this beloved John Street venue – for the (admittedly brilliant) 2020 half-time show by J-Lo and Shakira.

Brendan McGinty owns Finnieston Communications @finniestoncomms DRAM MARCH 2022 19

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he Fox in Troon opened last month and the latest venue to join the Buzzworks stable is a change of pace for the Ayrshire-based operator who describe the new venue as a casual live music bar. The Fox, which is situated across from the ever-popular Lido, on West Portland Street on the site of the former Papi Milano, has a capacity of up to 160 patrons. As well as being able to enjoy live music and sport throughout the week in The Fox, customers can also take advantage of a bookable golf simulator which is situated in its own space within the venue. The Fox is much larger than it looks from the outside, where it has a single unit frontage, but the glass entrance allows light into the venue and leads into a narrow, but well-utilised

space, where customers can eat and drink. As you travel through the venue it opens up into a wide social area where customers can eat, drink, watch live music or sport. It is also obviously very much of the moment in that Buzzworks and its designers have made good use of recycled materials – for instance, upcycled floor planks have been used on the walls instead of on the floors – there is nothing regular about the widths while an artistic piece of street art has been used to set the more edgy tone of The Fox. Exposed stone walls, some rough concrete, exposed wooden beams and stainless ducting marry very well with the recycled bar furniture which includes beaten copper-topped

tables – popular in the 70s and 80s, and new fitted seating on carcasses that have been upcycled too. The look has been very well curated due to the artistic touch of designer Jim Hamilton. But it probably would not have been possible to put together the eclectic look without the benefit of Buzzworks storage facility – which I can imagine is a bit like an Aladdin’s cave. The flooring is made up of black and white hexangle (six) side small tiles – the design of which naturally leads you through the venue past the statement bar – which is obviously bespoke with retro signage, iron fitments and neon red lighting. While the back bar is made from recycled materials too. There is DRAM MARCH 2022 21

DESIGN FOCUS also a beer tank which allows The Fox to serve unpasteurised tank beer - it appears as part of the decor too. At the rear of The Fox, the venue boasts a reclaimed wooden floor, fitted seating in dark green, burned orange and burgundy velour upholstery and a mix of large booths, smaller booths and tables with a posing table in the middle. All the seating allows a good view of the stage, which is permanently set, with its own lighting rig, and a very large screen. Greenery and well-placed pieces of original art also add depth and character to the space. Jim is well known for his love of creative lighting and he has been inventive here too. Oval opaque flying saucer-like lights 22

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adorn the walls and fly over the booths, while there is a spider’s web chandelier of vintage-style lights. Wall lights are of the vintage variety too. Immediately adjacent to the main bar area there is the space which houses the Golf simulator – the interior décor here feels very much like the outdoors from the sage green walls to the grass, and it too has an eclectic piece of street art, which was still being finished when we visited. Customers can book this area. Johnny Blair, Operations Manager at The Fox, said, “The Fox is our modern take on your local friendly pub.” It certainly is.

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BERTIE MOONEY’S DESIGN FOCUS - BERTIE MOONEY’S, DUNDEE - BY SUSAN YOUNG

undee publican Jimmy Marr’s City Centre Pub Company has just opened Bertie Mooney’s which is the new name for his former Nicholls pub on Commercial Street. The pub doesn’t just have a new name it is has undergone a substantial refurbishment which has seen the bar move position, a new stage created, tank beer put in, and the ground floor space in the pub opened up. The transformation into a live music venue and eatery now gives his family-owned company, Jimmy believes, one of the best pubs in Dundee, and the only live music venue. He first bought the pub in 2002 turned it into a sports bar before selling it to Scottish Brewers. He then bought the pub back eight years ago and re-opened it as Nicholls, but following the pandemic, Jimmy decided to re-launch the pub with a fresh look and a new name following a meeting with a brewer who suggested he put in tank beer. The name is actually the name of his father-in-law. Says wife Karen, “Jimmy said to me he wanted to give the pub a new name and I suggested Bertie Mooney’s which was my dad’s name. I always thought his name was quite catchy. Jimmy agreed, and when he ran the name past a few friends they agreed too, and Bertie Mooney’s it became. Karen didn’t just suggest the name she has also been very much involved with the interiors of the new-look pub. She worked alongside designer Alan Beaton. Says Jimmy, “After I decided to

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do a complete refurbishment I brought in Alan Beaton. He is a well known local interior designer and we worked with him on The Caird. However, we did have considerable input ourselves and the good thing about Alan is he listens. He is a good guy to work with.” Explains Karen, “When Jimmy decides to do something he usually has quite a clear idea of what he wants to do. We don’t really need an architect but we do need the knowledge that the designer has when it comes to the detail such as the wallpaper and colours and the design knowledge.” Bertie Mooney’s primary colours are blue and mustard. The pub is a former bank and its original cornicing is intact. Says Jimmy, “The ceiling was remaining the same colour so we picked the colours to compliment it.” Karen adds, “We have mixed and matched the chairs – so we have mustard, and blue in most areas.” The wallpaper is a mix of broad grey stripes and a quirky bold design featuring lots of circles – it has a bit of an 80’s vibe and adds a real sense of drama to the venue. It is not just the colours that have changed some walls have been knocked down to created to open the bar up and the bar itself has been moved to the right-hand side of the venue, whereas before it was facing you as you came into the bar. Says Karen, “We have opened the area up and now we have a proper Bertie Mooney reception desk and our new stage is where the bar was. We also have an area where we can offer private

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DESIGN FOCUS dining for 16 to 20 people. Upstairs still takes about 50 people and we also do a lot of functions up there like small weddings.” She continues, “Nicholls was always a very busy bar for food – at the weekend we’d have queues waiting to get in. We are hoping Bertie Mooney’s will be more wet-led, and I think the emphasis on live music will help that naturally.” The new bar and back bar created by local Dundee company Ostlers also acts as a frame for the tank beer containers which have been placed above the bar. The pub has various display cabinets. One of which showcases a collection of old whisky decanters. Jimmy smiles, “These decanters are mine, I have had them for ages. But Alan suggested we gave the interiors of the cabinets a colour, and the result means that the displays really pop out. The other display cabinet s a variety of teapots – these were my mums.” The bar also has more than a couple of large items which Jimmy had in storage. One is a large painting that hangs just as you come in the door. Jimmy grins, “I’ve been storing this painting for an old Dundee publican Frank Henry for about 20 years. I’m now storing 26

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it on the wall!” He has also brought out an old McEwan’s mirror from storage. Says Jimmy, “I don’t throw away anything. I have a huge storage unit – and it is a bit like an Aladdin’s cave.” I mention to him a Noddy car that once sat in his office. He grins, ‘I’ve still got it, I might bring it in here too.” Something else that brings a smile to his face, and to everyone that sees it – is the wall transfers in the toilets. It is an idea the couple saw in Spain. Let’s just say one of the ladies has a magnifying glass in her hand above the men’s urinals... I am sure you get the picture. It is a little bit of light relief. Also looking for some light relief in the days ahead is Jimmy. He tells me he is trying to take a step back from the business. He says, “My son Peter and son-in-law Gerry are taking more of a role in the business, and I am trying to step back. They work very well together. It really is a family effort.” All I can say is if this is Jimmy stepping back, I would hate to see him full on! Perhaps now that Bertie Mooney’s is open we will see him on the dance floor rather than working the floor?

by Dawn Campbell

THE ELEPHANT IN THE ROOM

entioning mental health in public still receives raised eyebrows, to say the least. Talking about it in the workplace is much the same. On the surface, we are all happy to wax lyrical on the subject but I think the reality is still somewhat different. Why though? We have just lived through a collective global trauma. Dealing with a killer virus for the last couple of years has affected everyone on the planet, even the covid deniers! To think that these events won’t have affected our mental health is ludicrous and now that we are getting back to some kind of new normality, that trauma will be following us back in to the workplace. As an industry, we play an important role in the economy; with approximately two million workers making up around 7% of the UK economy. Yet, hospitality has some shocking mental health statistics. The Royal Society for Public Health (RSPH) found that ‘at least one in five hospitality workers suffer from work-related severe mental health issues’. A staggering 84% of those working in hospitality attributed feeling increased stress as a direct result of their job. A study conducted by Nestle found that 8 in 10 chefs have experienced poor mental health at some point in their career with 48% of those claiming that there is not enough being done to support not only their mental health but their general wellbeing. According to a survey by job site CV-Library 70% of UK hospitality workers feel overworked and 45% had sick absence due to mental health problems in their career. This makes for grim reading and an industry facing real concerns over the state of it’s workforce and their mental health. The same CV-library survey found that at least half of those affected wouldn’t talk to anyone if they have a mental health issue and 90% believe that admitting to mental health susceptibility would hinder their career. Although shame associated with mental health should be a ridiculous notion, it is very real, with people admitting that they feel a failure as a hospitality worker for failing mental health. For most us, the environment, being creative and the interaction is the enjoyable part of the role we play but we are all very well aware of some of the challenges we face daily; be that on the bar, floor, manager, chef, brand ambassador or executive. It’s clear that collectively we need to do more. Of course, we have a personal responsibility to our own mental welfare but do employers and the industry as a whole have a part to play? I really do think so. Even just reducing the shame associated with poor mental health would be progress. Thankfully more and more businesses are recognising that a good and healthy working environment is conducive to happier and healthy staff. The old school ideas that overworking managers and staff for poor wages, pilfering tips, poor work environments and even bad communication are outdated and operators need to realise that a healthy work life balance in a mature and fair workplace makes for not only better mental health but a happier and ultimately more productive workforce. It really should be a no brainer, yet there are still those operators out there clinging on to antiquated ideas. Returning to normality after the pandemic seems like the perfect time to make

those changes. Even small changes can make a difference. So, what can we as staff, managers and operators do to begin changing the narrative around mental health in the workplace? Be accountable for our own mental health and how to manage that at work. Mental health training is a thing and, in my opinion, should become part of mandatory training in the workplace. There are free courses available and can be done just like any other first aid training. This training will enable us to create a safe and healthy working environment and then be able to reach out to anyone who is in distress. Managers must make sure that the workplace is a safe space for employees to share their issues without shame or bullying. Good team communication is key here. Managers and operators have a duty of care to stop anyone from overworking, a work life balance is a necessity for all. None of this is difficult to begin implementing and can make a big difference in a relatively short space of time. There is some help out there – https://www.mentalhealth.org.uk/ publications/how-support-mental-health-work Is a great resource to get started. This publication can be ordered and covers just about everything you will need to build a mental health toolbox in your venue. Hospitality health is the brain child of Gordon McIntyre, also Dean for hospitality & tourism at City of Glasgow College. Gordon has previously written here about this charity but I think it’s important to remind our community of this invaluable resource on our door step. Hospitality health was founded in 2018 and is a Scottish charity dedicated to supporting individuals within the industry with mental health, addiction and wellbeing. The website offers everything from fully funded mental health and wellbeing courses to self help guides and a regular blog. You can find them at https://hospitalityhealth.org.uk/. There are other British campaigns https://www.pilotlightcampaign.com/histo And https://www.hospitalityaction.org.uk/ All with the same aim: To create a conversation and support surrounding the mental health and wellbeing of an ever hard working hospitality community around the UK. I am an advocate for good mental health in general and think it’s essential to make the conversation as normal as discussing the weather. One in four of us will will deal with a mental health episode in our lifetime. Therefore, mental health is just as important as our physical health and should be dealt with accordingly. Let’s begin our new hospitality normality with a healthier outlook after the tumultuous couple of years we have all endured? If you are in crisis now, you can contact https://www.mind.org.uk/ information-support/guides-to-support-and-services/ Or https:// www.samaritans.org/how-we-can-help/if-youre-having-difficulttime/ For immediate support. Lets look after each other and our hospitality community. We deserve it!

DRAM MARCH 2022 27

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@dramscotland

SUE SAYS

/dram.scotland

irst of all I would like to say congrats to all our Michelin stars - Glasgow’s reputation is growing - I always thought it was good, and could never understand why it took 18 years to get one star, and now we have two. We all know the hard work it takes to get into the Michelin Guide and congrats to each and everyone who made it. Next month we will launch our search for Scotland’s best bars and pubs. We have a full agenda and a date - 30th August at The Hilton in William Street. So get your dancing shoes out and get your customers nominating. There is no shortage of new bars opening and refurbishments from Dundee to Troon, Aberdeen to Edinburgh - and I hear that trade has been good. In fact, Jimmy Marr opened Bertie Mooney’s and sold 3,000 pints in his first week. The appetite is there and I am so hoping that it keeps up. It is concerning the rising costs - particularly energy - next month we will have a focus on tips to save - across the board. But I am hearing that if you have energy deal it is perhaps best to stick with it if you can. Because shopping around is not turning up better deals and some energy firms are declining hospitality businesses. That is not right! I popped into Gaucho for the press night and enjoyed a lovely dinner - the steaks were fabulous. So was the service. If that standard continues, and there is no reason to presume it won’t, Gaucho is set to be a hit. Many of you will know Stephen Montgomery - and as we report in our news pages - he has sold The Townhouse Hotel in Lockerbie. Unfortunately, it will not remain as a hotel. The good news is that he has another venture nearly ready to go.

DRAM DRINKS RETAILING AND MARKETING PUBLISHED BY MEDIA WORLD LIMITED

He is also going to spend more time with family. He has been unstinting in his support of the trade over the last two years. His role as spokesperson for the Scottish Hospitality Group has been purely voluntary and what an excellent job he has done. I wish him all the best in his next venture. On opening I missed - was La Choza - David Davidson’s Yes to All Group opened the restaurant in December, and of course, we all know what happened. It is now back up and running and I look forward to catching up with him and enjoying some Mexican street food. We have a lovely feature on The Ubiquitous Chip, a restaurant that holds fonds memories to me because my dad used to take us there when we were young. It was always our ‘go to place’ for special occasions. But I haven’t written the piece - Mary McGowne their PR did such a good job - I couldn’t have done it better. Well done.

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t: 0141 221 6965 e: news@mediaworldltd.com w: dramscotland.co.uk Editor Susan Young • Chairman Noel Young • Editorial Mairi Clark,Nicola Young• Advertising Nikki Oji, Syliva Forsyth • Admin Rebecca orr Published by Media World Ltd. Subscriptions: DRAM is available by subscription for all other qualified persons involved in the Scottish Licensed Trade at the rate of £60 per annum including the DRAM Yearbook. The publishers, authors and printers cannot accept liability for errors or omissions. Any transparencies or artwork will be accepted at owner’s risk. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of the copyright holder and publisher, application for which should be made to the publisher. Articles published in this magazine do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publishers. © Media World Limited 2022. Printed by Stephens & George Print Group.

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