JULY 13 2013 £6.50 www.drapersonline.com
BERLIN SHOWS
Brands to buy and trends to follow P78
PARIS MENSWEAR
Commercial looks ruled the catwalks P86 CLOSE-UP INTERVIEW
Patrick Grant freshens up men’s tailoring P14 VISUAL MERCHANDISING
Turn shoppers’ heads with a great display P90
MENswEar sPrING 14 sPEcIal
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THE WEEK Drapers COVER CREDITS: BLAZER, COMMON PEOPLE; JUMPER, SOULLAND; SHIRT, VACANT
Eric Musgrave returns in time for a bumper issue
Telephone House, 69-77 Paul Street, London EC2A 4NQ Tel: 020 3033 2600 Email: drapers@emap.com EDITORIAL Editorial Director Eric Musgrave, 020 3033 2759 Deputy Editor Ana Santi, 020 3033 2760 News Editor Catherine Neilan, 020 3033 2771 Senior News Reporter Victoria Gallagher, 020 3033 2861 Reporter Jill Geoghegan, 020 3033 2767 Features Editor James Knowles, 020 3033 2761 Fashion Director Ian Wright, 020 3033 2763 Junior Fashion Editor Graeme Moran, 020 3033 2768 Junior Fashion Writer Emily Norval, 020 3033 2914 Online Editor Keely Stocker, 020 3033 2762 Group Stores Editor John Ryan, 020 3033 2997 Deputy Special Projects Editor David Brooks, 020 3033 2846 Group Art Director Alison Fisher, 020 3033 2764 Group Production Editor Steve Draper, 020 3033 2765 Deputy Production Editor Digby Bodenham, 020 3033 4235 Senior Sub-Editor Alice Hall, 020 3033 4268 Supplements Production Editor Tracey Gardner, 020 3033 2769 Editorial Administrator Nadine McKen, 020 3033 2770 Contributors Simon Adamson, Colette Fahy, Aisling Megan, Amy Ryall, Alice Trueman, Richard Young
He’ll be a familiar face to many of you opening this week’s issue of Drapers – Eric Musgrave has returned as editorial director after a seven-year absence. Turn to p3 to read all about the details of his return, and read his first opinion piece on p8. Eric has made a timely return, joining us for the first of our seasonal bumper issues: the Menswear Special, a 104-page tome with everything you need to know about the spring 14 menswear buying season. It kicks off on p34 with our location shoot on the grounds of Florentine show Pitti Uomo, followed by still-life shots of the product categories and trends you need to buy into. We also catch up with tailor Patrick Grant on p16 for the lowdown on E Tautz, Norton & Sons and the menswear industry as a whole. Away from menswear, you’ll find our coverage of Berlin’s trade shows, including Bread & Butter, Premium and Bright, on p78. And there’s even more coverage from Berlin on our website, so log on to Drapersonline.com for this and more news as it happens. The meaty issues continue next week when we unveil our Womenswear Special. Enjoy.
COMMERCIAL TEAM Group Commercial Director Mandy Cluskey, 020 3033 2965 Commercial Director Lars Fiddy, 020 3033 2953 Advertising Manager Julia Jones-Collins, 020 3033 2952 Account Managers Elizabeth Harris, 3033 2994 Natalie Hill, 020 3033 4305 Rebecca Soni, 020 3033 2958 Sales Executive Daniel May, 020 3033 2956 Events and Projects Manager Victoria Hart, 020 3033 2961 Clubs Co-ordinator Katie Marcel, 020 3033 2962 Classified Sales Executive Danielle Choyen, 020 3033 2987 Sales & Event Support Executive Rosie Birchenough, 020 3033 2964 Sales Administrator Lizzie Fuller, 020 3033 2696 Production Manager Jo Lambert, 020 3033 2677 Recruitment Advertising Senior Account Manager Peter Bruce-Smyth, 020 3033 2985 Recruitment Sales Executives Freya Lucas, 020 3033 2669 Rebecca Tonkinson, 020 3033 2991 Senior Marketing Manager Nik Dinning, 020 3033 2862
CONTENTS Issue 13.07.13 REGULARS
PUBLISHING Managing Director Retail Group Richard Breeden, 020 3033 2683 Chief Executive of EMAP Natasha Christie-Miller, 020 3033 2691 PA to Chief Executive of EMAP Clair Sabel, 020 3033 2692 Subscriptions UK £249, UK independent retailers £195. Europe (by airmail) £342, worldwide airmail £356. EMAP Publishing Ltd. For UK subscription queries please call 0844 848 8858. For all other subscription queries please call 01604 828705. Newstrade Distribution Seymour Distribution Ltd. Tel: 020 7396 8095. Origination by F1 Colour, Copperfield St, London SE1. Printed and bound by Headley Brothers, Ashford, Kent, TN24 8HH. ISSN Number: 1479–1617. Drapers is published by EMAP, part of Top Right Group Ltd. © EMAP 2013
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2_ News This week’s top stories, including Sports Direct, business rates, Hallett Retail and Firetrap 6_ In-Depth Tight schedules and budgets are forcing trade shows to adapt accordingly 8_ Opinion ShopStyle’s Genevieve Kunst and Samantha Carr from indie The Wardrobe 10_ Fashion Index Trading figures from the UK and international news, plus Indie Index 22_ Ecomm Why image recognition technology could change the way people shop for fashion 92_ Careers Bestseller Group visual manager for wholesale Emily Potter
104_ This Fashion Life Gordon Richardson of Topman on the chain’s relationship with LCM FEATURES
14_ Close-Up Patrick Grant is doing his utmost to raise the profile of men’s tailoring 18_ Shopwatch Dolce & Gabbana’s new men’s store stands out from the luxury crowd 90_ Store interiors Get passers-by into your store with great visual merchandising MENSWEAR
33_ The Edit Everything you need to know about spring 14’s menswear collections 34_ Top of the Pops A riot of colour gets the new season off to a rip-roaring start 46_ Strong Silent Type Find out why simple
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appearances can prove deceptive 58_ Essential Items Tailor your buying strategy with our guide to brands and trends 76_ Brand List Contact details for all the featured brands DIRECTIONS
25_ This Week’s Hero Spring 14 outerwear has been a big hit on the menswear catwalks 26_ The Buzz Hot brands and trends,
including Junk de Luxe and ombré for men 27_ Style Council Our panel of experts give their spring 14 men’s trend predictions 30_ Brandwatch Why buyers are falling for I Love Ugly 78_ The Berlin Shows Brands to watch from the German capital’s six trade shows 86_ Paris Menswear Designers played with bold colours and unusual silhouettes
Drapers / JULY 13 2013 _ 1
_Ana Santi, deputy editor
NEWS
ashley ready to Cruise into luxury market / Ecommerce /
Sports Direct owner to plough ‘millions’ into Cruise’s luxury website, as well as adding to indie portfolio
Drapers / July 13 2013 _ 2
By Victoria Gallagher
Sportswear tycoon Mike Ashley is set to invest millions of pounds into an online luxury venture and further boost his indie portfolio after snapping up shares in northern-based mini-chain Pulp. Ashley, who in 2011 splashed out £7m on an 80% stake in branded retailer uSC and designer mini-chain Cruise, is understood to be ploughing “millions of pounds” into Cruise’s luxury etail arm Concept by Cruise, which was launched quietly last year. One industry insider told Drapers: “They are looking at Mr Porter and seeing there is not much other competition in that space. Mike Ashley is putting a lot of money into it. His pockets on this are as deep as [the buyers] want them to be.” Another source said the website, which stocks luxury and premium labels including Kenzo, Dior Homme, Nigel Cabourn and Folk, is a key focus for Ashley’s Sports Direct group, with the business hoping to take on the likes of luxury retailer Matchesfashion.com. “With Coggles out of the market and Oki-ni being run by a French business, there is a gap in the market,” he added. Sports Direct is also understood to have concluded a deal with young fashion retailer Pulp this week. Pulp, which has stores in Edinburgh, Glasgow, liverpool, Manchester, leeds and
‘Mike Ashley’s pockets on this are as deep as [the buyers] want them to be’ An industry insider
Nottingham, stocks brands such as Criminal Damage and Iron Fist. Pulp was previously owned by branded supplier GlD Group, whose portfolio includes Kappa and Ed Hardy. It is not known whether the deal will see Sports Direct gain total control of the business. However, sources close to the situation said in the wake of the deal Pulp will expand both its online presence and store portfolio with Sports Direct’s backing. Marc Granditer, managing director of branded mini-chain Base Menswear, said he thought the move would be a positive one for Pulp and that he is not fazed by larger retailers buying smaller indies. Granditer said: “[Sports Direct] understands the market and what it takes to make a successful business. I don’t see any negativity at all. The option for small
setting sail: the concept by cruise luxury website launched last year
retailers is to go to the wall or go cap-in-hand to the banks, but [Sports Direct] will be much more amenable.” The owner of another young fashion retailer agreed the deal could be positive if the investment goes towards developing Pulp’s expansion strategy. However, he added: “The problem lies where big sports retailers like Sports Direct snap up indie chains and begin to close stores and discount stock. They seem to have a monopoly on the industry at the moment; what they say goes. Heavy discounting only diminishes brands and decreases the overall value. It’s not good for the brands, retailers or the industry.” Sports Direct declined to comment. Is Sports Direct’s push into the indie market good for retail? Read more at www.drapersonline.com/blogs
/ Trading /
Indies cheer multiples’ business rates campaign By Victoria Gallagher & Jill Geoghegan
www.drapersonline.com
overseas plans for orlebar brown
Orlebar Brown is looking to expand overseas following the appointment of Paul Donoghue as global commercial director. Donoghue, who was formerly commercial director at accessories brand Radley, is to join the British designer swimwear label from September 30. He will be responsible for all global online, retail and wholesale sales, with a particular focus on exploring overseas revenue channels.
outerwear boosts burberry
Demanding rates reform: sir philip green
Janine O’Keefe, owner of contemporary womenswear retailer Okeefe in Esher, Surrey, said she hopes Green will be able to “influence and instigate change”. She added: “I’m happy to pay rates, but they need to be cut by 50% at least. At the moment they are more than half my rent.” Dave Conaghan, co-owner of young fashion store Chocolate in Derry, Northern Ireland, said: “I definitely think the likes of Philip Green backing the campaign to lower rates will have a positive effect.”
/ People /
Musgrave returns as editorial director EMAP has appointed Eric Musgrave as editorial director of Drapers. Musgrave, who started his role on July 5, first joined EMAP in 1996 and became editorial chief in 2000. He led the team which merged the magazines Drapers Record and Menswear to create the modern Drapers in 2002. Musgrave then left EMAP in 2006 for a career as a fashion industry consultant and freelance writer. Musgrave said it was a “privilege” to work for the Drapers brand again, adding: “It is an even greater privilege to lead the editorial team once again. I look forward to developing the
News in Brief
multichannel Drapers and enhancing its reputation across all sectors of our diverse fashion community.” Musgrave reports to Richard Breeden, Drapers’ managing director, who said: “Eric is a born editor and a genuine authority on the business of fashion. He will be a huge asset to the team.” Musgrave has over 30 years’ experience in the fashion industry and launched his journalistic career on Drapers Record in 1980. He subsequently held senior positions on a range of titles. Musgrave replaces Caroline Nodder, who has left Drapers to pursue other opportunities.
Luxury label Burberry reported a 13% rise in like-for-like retail revenue for the three months to June 30. Overall retail sales rose 18% to £339m, with revenues driven by seven store openings, including two in Shanghai and one in Mexico. Outerwear (pictured) and large leather goods accounted for more than half of the growth. Men’s accessories and tailoring also outperformed.
fashion sales jump in June
Strong sales of fashion and footwear helped drive a rise in consumer spending during June. The latest figures from the British Retail Consortium show sales grew by 2.9%, ahead of the year-todate average of 2.8% and better than the 12-month average of 2.4%. Footwear was the best-performing category, followed by clothing, as warmer weather prompted consumers to take advantage of discounted summer ranges.
bank snaps up ex-reiss director
Former Reiss trading director Gwynn Milligan has been appointed as managing director of young fashion retailer Bank. Peter Alecock, who formerly held the role, has become group commercial operations director at parent company JD Sports Fashion as it strengthens its management team. Milligan previously held senior management positions at Asos and Arcadia. She left Reiss in February after just eight months in the role.
Drapers / July 13 2013 _ 3
The independent sector has applauded retail heavyweights for getting involved in the business rates debate, with many optimistic that change is likely to come. last week Sir Philip Green called for an overhaul of the uK’s business rates system to support struggling high streets, calling for a rates freeze and a “rates holiday” for small shop owners. Sainsbury’s chief executive Justin King and British Retail Consortium chairman Ian Cheshire have also thrown their weight behind the campaign. Retailers are urging the Government to reconsider how business rates are determined and pleading for business rates to be frozen at the current level. Michael Weedon, deputy chief executive of the British Independent Retail Association (Bira), said the involvement of Green and other retail chiefs had changed the campaign “significantly”. He added: “We’ve been talking about business rate reform for years now and it is good it is finally catching on.” last week high street retailers including John lewis, Tesco and Sainsbury’s gave evidence to the Business, Innovation and Skills Committee, urging the Government to rebalance the system.
Have your say can heavyweight retailers influence business rates? vote in our poll at
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NEWS
Ecommerce /
Hallett flexes etail muscle with Stylistpick deal
Drapers / JULY 13 2013 _ 4
By Victoria Gallagher
Concessions business Hallett Retail has acquired fashion etailer Stylistpick with the intention of growing the brand mix and combining the two businesses’ ecommerce operations. The deal, which will be effective from August 1, will see Hallett Retail take over Stylistpick’s online offer and join it with its own Fusefashion.com website. Stylistpick, which launched in November 2010, ditched its subscription model in May and introduced a wider range of product, including clothing and swimwear, to bolster its strong initial offering of footwear and accessories. Prices range from £4 to £119. Wendy Hallett, founder and managing director of Hallett Retail, told Drapers the company already provides some of its brands to Stylistpick, such as young fashion brands Closet, Cutie and
/
Pippa Dee, but following the deal will supply the remainder of Fuse Fashion’s 36 women’s contemporary and young fashion labels. Hallett added she would also now be sourcing new brands to complement both websites’ current portfolios. “We want to take to over and become familiar with the Stylistpick customer and once we are familiar we will look at bringing on new brands,” she said.
‘Stylistpick is very successful. We will not be making any dramatic changes’ Wendy Hallett, managing director, Hallett Retail
Joint effort: Stylistpick (top) and Fuse Fashion Network
“One of Stylistpick’s biggest areas is shoes and this is something we have been starting to look at.” From the beginning of August customers visiting either website will be directed to a joint platform, although Hallett said discussions are ongoing as to what this will be called. “Stylistpick is very successful in terms of the level of traffic it attracts and so we will not be making any dramatic changes to the strategy,” she added. The website has more than one million registered customers. Hallett was unsure how many staff would transfer from Stylistpick to Hallett Retail’s team but added that “some” Stylistpick staff will definitely be relocated from Stylistpick’s office in Clerkenwell, north London, to Hallett’s office in Finchley. She added that Hallett Retail aims to increase its team with two or three new members of staff. The company would not disclose the price it paid to acquire Stylistpick, but Hallett explained the move was another step in the diversification of Hallett Retail, which also supplies multiples such as Debenhams, New Look and Oasis. For more news on the latest developments in fashion retail, visit www.drapersonline.com
Independents /
Indies angered by Firetrap compensation deals By Claire Dodd
Sports Direct has angered some indies with its case-by-case compensation to Firetrap stockists, after the sportswear retailer began selling the brand’s autumn 12 collection at reduced prices online. Indies attempting to finalise payments to Firetrap have been offered compensation of between 0% and 50% of cost price. Stockists reacted furiously back in October after Sports Direct began selling Firetrap’s autumn 12 collection for up to 70% lower than the recommended retail price. It followed the sale of the brand to Sports Direct after it fell into administration in March 2012. Indies have been seeking discounts on final balances to compensate for losses accumulated after they were
Fanning the flames: Sports Direct started selling Firetrap in October last year
forced to slash prices to compete with those offered by Sports Direct. Luke Conod, managing director of Hereford young fashion store Fit, said: “We were initially offered 10% off but we said that was in no way acceptable. We were then offered 50% off. It’s what I consider fair. In order to clear the stock I had to sell it at half the retail price.” However, others were not so lucky. Salim Kidiya, owner of Club JJ in Plaistow, east London, said he was offered just a 15% reduction. Raj Hardawa, buyer at Estilo, which has three stores in the West Midlands, said he had not been offered any discount. He said: “It’s wrong. We’ve been doing trade with them for seven or eight years.” Sports Direct did not comment.
Multiples /
All Saints’ Davis joins Reiss team Premium retailer Reiss has bolstered its senior management team with the appointment of Jonny Davis, former head of visual merchandising at young fashion retailer All Saints. Davis will lead Reiss’s global merchandising strategy as the chain embarks on a move into India. Before joining All Saints in 2005, Davis held roles at Kurt Geiger and French Connection. In his new position as director of global merchandising Davis will lead the merchandising strategy for all Reiss stores in the UK and around the world, including shops in the US, Denmark and the Middle East. His appointment is the latest in a recent shake-up of Reiss’s senior team, which saw a raft of departures including ecommerce director Dan Lumb and brand director Andy Rogers, both of whom stepped down in May. Meanwhile, Reiss is set to branch into the Indian market after signing a franchise agreement with Indian fashion firm Reliance Brands, part of the Reliance Industries Group. Reiss founder and managing director David Reiss said he believed the Indian market would “embrace” the brand.
BERLIN HAUL WE SCOURED THE SHOW FLOORS AT THE BERLIN TRADE SHOWS TO FIND BRANDS FOR YOUR SPRING 14 BUYING LIST p78
News in Brief M&S sees dip in like-for-like sales
Marks & Spencer’s general merchandise sales inched up 0.5% in the 13 weeks to June 29, but slipped 1.6% on a like-for-like basis, with total group sales up 3.3%. Chief executive Marc Bolland blamed the unseasonal weather and widespread promotions on the high street.
Bombay High eyes London flagship Indian mainstream chain Bombay High has set its sights on the UK and is looking for a flagship London store. Property consultancy Phillipa Jeal said it was looking at premises around Oxford Street or Regent Street. AIS opens show doors to indies
Associated Independent Stores (AIS) has opened its trade shows up to all indie retailers. The INDX Menswear show will run from July 30 to August 1 at Cranmore Park in Solihull. INDX Womenswear runs from August 7 to 9 and lingerie and accessories shows are planned for the autumn. For more information, see www.aistores.co.uk.
Supply chain report available
Drapers has produced a research report on logistics. The report discusses the importance of logistics and the supply chain’s more prominent role in meeting customer demands. The report can be downloaded from Drapersonline.com.
Subscribe Arcadia’s Sir Philip Green, Next’s Christos Angelides, Marks & Spencer’s Marc Bolland, Tesco’s Jason Tarry and singer Rita Ora helped celebrate the graduation of 490 students from the Fashion Retail Academy last week.
To receive your own copy of Drapers every week, plus full access to the website, either call 0844 848 8858 and quote dwhs, or visit www.subscription.co.uk /drapers/dwhs
Drapers / JULY 13 2013 _ 5
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IN-DEPTH
The trade show trade-off Everyone – organisers, exhibitors and buyers – is having to adapt to tighter seasonal schedules and budgets Words by CLAIRE DODD
Drapers / JULY 13 2013 _ 6
T
ight budgets and packed schedules have caused both brands and buyers to re-evaluate their trade show presence this season, meaning long-established shows have had to act in response. In May, Bread & Butter Berlin announced it was to charge a €500 (£424) fee for non-buyer attendees and also culled about 25% of its long-term exhibitors as part of a major overhaul of the streetwear show. Despite a flurry of new exhibitions such as Berlin’s Panorama, even fledgling events are finding it tough. The organisers of S London – who were also co-founders of menswear show Jacket Required – announced last week they were cancelling this season’s debut show, citing a short lead time and a “combination of other factors”. KEITH EWING, owner of lifestyle indie
Number Eight in Stirling, Scotland, usually attends Bread & Butter but said the cost and concerns over its line-up meant he attended neither edition this year. “Last summer’s Bread & Butter was the same old brands,” he says. “There’s often only a small showcase and it seems more about entertaining the customer. It’s not what I’m looking for as a buyer any more. I can go anywhere and get entertained and have a beer. I want to go and buy and see fresh new product. “I know you need to get out there and look out for the next Superdry or the next Ugg,” he continues, “but going out to Bread & Butter just to see two brands costs the best part of two or three thousand pounds – you just can’t be chucking that kind of money around any more.” Brands have similar concerns. Neil Smith, UK sales manager for underwear brand Björn Borg, showed at Bread & Butter, and the brand also shows at Vision in Copenhagen, Pitti Uomo in Florence, Moda in Birmingham and Bubble London. He says the brand’s UK arm has
Sliced thinner: this season Bread & Butter aimed for quality over quantity after slashing the number of exhibitors
to reassess which shows will yield deals. “We’ve been saying for a number of seasons that Bread & Butter is becoming less relevant for the UK with regards to the number and quality of the buyers there,” he says. “Most people we see are existing accounts. For taking on new business, it’s no good for us. Going forward as a UK subsidiary, if it was up to me we wouldn’t do Bread & Butter. We would reinvest the money and do a big brand campaign.” BUT FOR OTHER BRANDS, even if a deal isn’t done on the day, attending a show is vital for future sales. Talha Veri, marketing executive at denim brand ETO Jeans, says failure to attend a show can have negative repercussions. The brand opted out of showing at Bread & Butter this year, but will show at Vision and Moda. It also attended exhibitions in Australia and Moscow and is looking for more events in emerging markets. “[Trade shows are] a vital source of business. They give us a lot of opportunities,” says Veri. “Brands
Story in Numbers
€500
(£424) Bread & Butter’s new fee for non-buyers
25%
Number of longterm exhibitors axed by Bread & Butter for spring 14 edition
900
Brands exhibited at Berlin show Premium’s spring 14 edition
5%
Attendees at Premium who were from UK and Ireland
shouldn’t shy away from attending shows. If it’s about the cost and the return on investment, you can’t put a measure on that. “To build a strong brand profile is important,” he adds. “When you speak to people on the phone or email it doesn’t compare with the rapport you can build face to face. For existing customers, it’s about showing the new season to them and solidifying relationships.” So are buyers still taking trade shows seriously, and can brands expect to take large orders on the show floor? Dan Hufton, assistant menswear buyer at House of Fraser, says: “How much buying we do has varied. We purely go to the trade shows to see what’s happening at the moment and report back to the company. We wouldn’t really do [buying] there and then.” He adds: “We normally go to Jacket Required because it usually shows a lot of up-and-coming brands. Shows are still vital. When looking for new brands to develop, it’s hard to see if we didn’t go to these kind of things how we’d be able to find them.”
OPINION
Drapers / JULY 13 2013 _ 8
Seven years on, a return to Drapers _ Eric Musgrave
H
ello again. The last time I was here – from 2000 to 2006 – I oversaw more than 300 issues of Drapers (or Drapers Record as it was until 12 October, 2002). About 350 editions of the magazine have appeared since I’ve been away and Drapers has extended its communication platform to its very vibrant website. Even for magazine junkies like myself, our site is worth a closer look. You may be surprised to learn that there is lots of information on there that never reaches the printed page. If you are not already a regular user, I recommend a voyage of exploration around www.drapersonline.com. During my leave of absence the ubiquitous omnichannel approach to publishing has been mirrored by the extraordinary boom in online retailing at a pace it would have been hard to predict back in 2006. The attitude to shopping displayed by my teenage children has been an education to me. In most instances, the internet is the first place they look to make a purchase, a concept that still feels alien to me, certainly when it comes to selecting and buying clothes, footwear and accessories. Somehow, despite my reservations, I don’t think the internet is going to lose its appeal any time soon and I am fascinated by the prospects for the online channels to market. At Drapers we will keep you informed about what’s working and what’s not. The other huge change in fashion and everywhere else during my seven-year hiatus has been in the economy. Since I started my journalistic career – funnily enough, as a junior reporter on Drapers Record in January 1980
– I have seen numerous downturns and tough times, but never one that has been so austere for so long. Too many of us may have been living in a credit-fuelled fool’s paradise for too long, but the new reality is here to stay. Our intention at Drapers is to constantly bring you examples of best practice in the fashion business because we all know that many companies are still prospering despite the financial strictures. Some companies are not performing well, however, and their inherent weaknesses are being magnified by the downturn. When I took over as editorial chief of this publication in spring 2000, the future of Marks & Spencer was a hot topic and, well, would you believe it, it still is today. Back then, Luc Vandevelde, a Belgian with a track record in food retail, was charged with performing the turnaround miracle. He lasted four years. Today Marc Bolland, a Dutchman with a track record in food retail, has the unenviable responsibility of reviving M&S in inauspicious trading conditions. He has been there for three years already. In a few weeks Drapers will be watching the arrival of M&S’s new autumn collection, of which so much has been promised, with great interest. So, seven years on, much has changed but so much about the industry has remained the same. Our intention at Drapers is to continue to be your first stop for fashion business news, views, insight, comment and community, whether online, in the magazine and through our various Drapers events, conferences, roundtables and awards. I am really looking forward to being in contact with you all again. It’s very good to be back. Drapers editorial director / eric.musgrave@emap.com
TO KEEP UP WITH BREAKING NEWS, TRADE SHOW REPORTS AND BLOGS, CHECK OUT OUR WEBSITE AT www.drapersonline.com
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/ Talking Business /
_ Genevieve Kunst
I
n the June 22 issue of Drapers, Paul McManus, chief executive of brand agency Crave, said brands should stop spending on social media campaigns that don’t turn into shopping opportunities. But we have found the opposite to be true – people want to interact with social media and buy what they see. We’re partnering with a new interactive fashion magazine that has requested shareable video content from brands, and there is a raft of these commercially minded digital magazines with click-to-buy buttons behind editorial, as well as video and other content from brands. We consume media in new ways, from reading it to clicking to buy and sharing on social sites. These
magazines aim to be fully interactive, so as well as click-to-buy buttons, they are also demanding social content to make us linger longer. Of course, not all social media works commercially. Facebook has remained a site primarily for communicating with friends. But Pinterest is a fashion lovers’ treasure trove, visual and clickable, and sends significant traffic to retailers. These magazines have done their research and know that the 20 to 45 age group will take the time to view content that expands on the editorial they’ve read, presenting us with a hungry new audience. Managing director of fashion search engine ShopStyle
VIEWS & NEWS READ OPINIONS ON THE BIGGEST FASHION STORIES BY CHECKING OUT THE DRAPERS BLOG
05 Comments from Drapersonline.com
www.drapersonline.com
01 ‘Philip Green calls for overhaul of business rates’ – Just as more retail leases are being negotiated on a turnover basis, so should the business rate; this would adjust the imbalances to out-of-town or internet warehousing John Coxon
02 ‘Temperley joins higher-end lingerie offer at John Lewis’ – Mmmmm – not sure. How many people want a silk jumpsuit at £145? Think John Lewis has got far too much own brand on lingerie and swimwear Anonymous
03 ‘Footfall slips but buyers tuck into Bread & Butter’ – I thought B&B was super dull. The strategy is not clear. On one hand they do not want the high street but there was a huge area dedicated to Bestseller Group Anonymous
04
/ Talking Shop /
‘Like all fashion retailers, I’m obsessed with the weather’ _ Samantha Carr
I
opened my shop on March 27, 2012 and my first 15 months have shown me that the meteorological climate is all-important in the current economic climate. Business is always better when the weather is good. Like every experienced fashion retailer, I’m now obsessed with the weather. With this in mind, when I’m buying for spring 14, I’ll avoid very weather-dependent fabrics such as linen (I’m pleased I didn’t do much of it for the current season). Instead, I’ll be on the lookout for things that can work across the seasons, such as knitwear that’s easy to put on or take off, depending on the temperature. My customers’ ages range from 20s to 70s. It’s not unusual for
mothers and daughters to shop together. I have to make sure I buy something different from the high street to give them a reason to visit. Nougat, By Ti Mo and Prunella have all performed well. Strong colours such as coral, turquoise, teal and deep blues have been good sellers this spring – along with white, of course – so I’ll keep an eye out for similarly bold hues for next spring. Despite trade being impossible to predict, I love having my own shop, even though there’s a lot more paperwork involved than I expected. Owner of womenswear indie The Wardrobe in Tarporley, Cheshire and a member of The Fashion Association of Britain (FAB)
‘Sports Direct and JD Sports in the running to buy Nicole Farhi’ – Nicole Farhi trackies and shellsuits. Now there’s a thought!! Anonymous
05 This is starting to feel a bit like Baugur buying up the high street a decade earlier Anonymous
Online Poll This week’s poll result Will John Lewis suffer without Peter Ruis? YES
NO
25% 75% This week’s question Do you think retail heavyweights will influence a change in business rates? www.drapersonline.com
Drapers / JULY 13 2013 _ 11
‘Consumers are hungry for brand-based social media’
Fashion INDEX
‘What’s in a name? Probably not as much as you think’ _ Dan Coen
Drapers / JULY 13 2013 _ 12
F
ashion designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana were in the headlines last month for all the wrong reasons, when the duo received a 20-month suspended prison sentence and a heavy fine for allegedly hiding hundreds of millions of euros from the Italian tax authorities. Even though experts claim the scandal won’t hurt the Dolce & Gabbana brand in the long run, it still raises an interesting question: when a fashion brand is so closely linked to such high-profile individuals, how can the company manage unexpected crises like these? The death of Christian Dior, for example, initially left his fashion house in total disarray. While deaths and prison sentences may be dramatic examples of designers and brands parting ways, there are of course less extreme cases. What about when the individual who built the brand is no longer at the helm purely for business reasons? How can retailers maintain the value of the brand in that scenario? The answer is actually pretty simple: focus on the brand rather than the individual. For every company that puts the designer at the centre of the retail universe – names like Orla Kiely and Tom Ford spring to mind – there is a company like Ralph Lauren or Paul Smith that manages to create a brand which has a power far greater than any one person. Companies like these understand that having a strong personality at the helm is important – but not as important as the aspirational vision and values that the brand represents. Just look at Burberry: ever since Thomas Burberry founded his iconic company more than 150 years ago, the brand has continued to reinvent itself in order to represent a lifestyle, rather than a name. Dior, too, went on to become part of one of the world’s most influential luxury goods conglomerates, despite losing its founder nearly 60 years ago. These businesses know that the customer, not the designer, is king – not only in terms of how they value the finished product but also how they perceive the brand and rate the overall buying experience. So what’s in a name? As long as retailers can get everything else right, probably not as much as you think. Director, corporate advisory firm Zolfo Cooper
WEEKLY FOOTFALL RETAIL INDEX
National UK footfall figures Week 27 – July 1 to July 7, 2013
-3.5%
-5.8% YEAR-ON-YEAR CHANGE
WEEK-ON-WEEK CHANGE
The latest report shows a 3.5% week-on-week decline in shopper traffic and a decline of 5.8% year on year. As we move closer to the anniversary of the 2012 Olympics, some of the shortfall we see is in contrast to the positive effect on traffic we saw last year during the run-up to this major event. Both Saturday and Sunday produced a year-on-year decline in footfall of 13.2% and 12.7% respectively. This result was most heavily impacted by the start of the UK-wide heatwave, with consumers avoiding the shops where possible and making the most of the sunshine.
HIGH STREET SALES TRACKER
Like-for-like sales figures across the high street Week ending July 7, 2013
+1.5% +0.9% Total fashion
Clothing
-7.9% Footwear
Flat performance compared with a weak result from the same period last year will have left most fashion retailers slightly disappointed. Mainstream and young fashion appeared to be boosted, while footwear retailers generally posted weaker results.
DRAPERSJOBS.COM
The UK’s employment hot spot and the most popular roles
The most applied for jobs MANCHESTER 20%
1. Design 8.6% 2. Merchandising 6.4% 3. Production 6.2% 4. Sales 5.1%
Highest growth location (defined by % increase in traffic to DrapersJobs week-on-week)
5. Buying 4.6% As a percentage of total applications on DrapersJobs last week
ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATHALIE LEES
/ Talking Trade /
SALES & TRENDS – OVER-45S MARKET The over-45s clothing, footwear and accessories market is in growth, with menswear the fastest-growing category
£7.62bn Expenditure
+4.7%
+2.6%
+2.0%
747m
£10.20
Number of units
Average selling price
Retail sector share £%
2012 2013
24 weeks ending May 12, 2013 versus 2012
30%
+4%
SUPERMARKETS
DISCOUNTERS
INTERNET
MAIL ORDER
DEPT STORES
Charlotte Wilks, category analyst at Kantar Worldpanel
24 weeks ending May 12, 2013 versus 2012, according to Kantar Worldpanel Fashion
GENERAL STORES
Growth in full-price sales among over-45s
0% INDIES
Growth in spend among men over 45
FASHION CHAINS
+5%
Pure-play retailers see the biggest sales growth, with supermarkets second strongest
INTERNATIONAL
The five top stories from around the globe ● H&M is to take over Benetton’s flagship
store on Via Tomacelli in central Rome. Benetton has sold the building to the Swedish fashion giant for a reported £155m. Built in 1901, the former Unione Militare landmark building comprises 65,000 sq ft.
FRANCE
● ZARA in India has recorded 2012 annual CHINA
INDIA
SPAIN
sales of £44.8m, six times more than the country’s largest domestic clothing brand, Louis Philippe. Inditex Trent, Zara’s Indian arm, saw 56% growth in sales, excluding new stores, in the year ended March 2013.
● PARKSON RETAIL GROUP chief ITALY
financial officer Clarence Kang Yean Wong has resigned. The China-based department store operator has appointed Chen Sum Au as his acting successor.
● VENTE-PRIVEE.COM plans to more than
double sales in the coming years. The French web retailer is targeting revenue rises from £860m to £2.6bn, with an increased focus on sales via mobile devices.
To succeed in this business you need to excel in four areas: IT, production and presentation, logistics and customer services Xavier Court, co-founder, Vente-privee.com
● EL CORTE INGLÉS plans to broaden its
international business activities. The Spanish multi-format operator is to open franchised Sfera clothing stores in Peru with local department store chain Oechsle, and in Saudi Arabia with Al Hokair Group.
Drapers / JULY 13 2013 _ 13
PRODUCT TRENDS
Indie INDEX
Premium WOMENSWEAR
MENSWEAR
Best-selling brands of the week
Best-selling brands of the week
Top 10
Top 10 1
Diane von Furstenberg
1
Boss Black
2
Nicole Farhi
2
Armani Jeans
3
Paul Smith
£10,039
4
Boss Green
5
Polo Ralph Lauren
tAKINGS tHIS WEEK
6
Gant
7
Boss Orange
3
Paul Smith
4
Velvet
5
Michael Kors
6
Armani Jeans
7
Parker
8
Marc Cain
8
Stone Island
Missoni
9
Vivienne Westwood
9
Top 5
Best-selling categories of the week
Drapers / July 13 2013 _ 12
10
Vivienne Westwood
1
Dresses
2
Tops
3
Jeans
4
T-shirts
5
Knitwear
Top 5
£231 AVERAGE SPEND
+4.8% year-on-year change
Paul & Shark
Top 5
Best-selling categories of the week 1
Jeans
2
Polo shirts
3
Shirts
4
T-shirts
5
Jackets
£162
Top 5
AVERAGE SPEND
Brands with the best sell-through
Brands with the best sell-through 1
tAKINGS tHIS WEEK
Diane von Furstenberg
Week ending June 29, 2013
1
2
Odd Molly
2
Paul Smith
3
Paul Smith
3
Stone Island
4
Acne
4
Armani Jeans
5
Nicole Farhi
5
Gant
Top 5
Brands with the best margin 1
Diane von Furstenberg
2
Marc Cain
3
Moncler
4
J Brand
5
Odd Molly
-2.7% FOOtFAll Change for week ending June 29, 2013 compared with the same week in 2012
-2%
Top 5
Brands with the best margin 1
Paul Smith
2
Armani Jeans
3
Gant
4
Paul & Shark
5
Vivienne Westwood
INDIE WATCH
-2.17%
AVERAGE MONtHlY tAKINGS
FOOtFAll Change for week ending June 29, 2013 compared with the same week in 2012
82 THE bIg NumbEr
Comparative four-week periods (2012 v 2013) for the UK independent retail sector
+4.11%
+3.08%
Week ending June 29, 2013
Boss Black
%
of premium menswear indies did not attend Pitti Uomo
PROFIt MARGIN
AVERAGE NuMBER OF uNItS SOlD
Data for May 27 to June 23, 2013, compared with the same period in 2012. Data provided by Top to Toe, fashion industry stock management and EPoS specialists (Top to Toe: 0845 130 3535)
ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATHALIE LEES
10
+2.5% year-on-year change
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Drapers / MONTH 00 2012 _ 16
PATRICK GRANT I CLOSE-UP
Cut from a different cloth Words by GRAEME MORAN
Photography by RICHARD CANNON
W
hen I visit the east London studios of menswear brand E Tautz, just a matter of days before its recent spring 14 catwalk show at London Collections: Men, I could be forgiven for thinking I’ve got the wrong address. The warehouse space I enter is a cross between an eccentric country house and a sleek design studio, with its team of workers calmly tapping away at computers arranged around a cluster of cosy sofas and a desk strewn with bric-a-brac. The only things signalling that this is the home of one of London’s brightest menswear brands are the neatly organised rails of clothes, the mood boards covering the walls and the casually placed trophies set on shelves, with the British Fashion Council’s Menswear Designer of the Year award standing out. Behind the desk sits Patrick Grant, the award-winning creative director of the brand, his hair neatly parted, his grey-flecked beard a day or two past being neatly trimmed. I expected to walk into a scene of hectic preparation and not the calm composure I’m met with – but it soon becomes clear that’s just not Grant’s style.
Grant says E Tautz is “a fresher take on Savile Row” (spring 14, pictured)
Rather, he is a man who coolly takes everything in his stride. At ease in a three-piece dinner suit, topping best-dressed lists and being papped at parties with his famous friends and high-profile girlfriend (Katie Hillier, the new creative director of Marc by Marc Jacobs), he’s just as charming in the casual chinos and trainers he is wearing when I meet him. Grant comes across as one of London menswear’s most down-to-earth yet switched-on figures, and an incredibly busy one at that. He’s creative director of E Tautz – where he is also expanding into a full womenswear offer for pre-spring 14 – owns Savile Row bespoke tailor Norton & Sons, consults for clients including Christopher Kane, Kim Jones and The Kooples, is launching collaborations with Barbour and Debenhams, and even finds time to take to our television screens to judge the BBC’s Great British Sewing Bee. Since snapping up Norton & Sons in 2005, Grant has rejuvenated the once ailing business. For autumn 09, he relaunched Nortons’ subsidiary brand E Tautz as a ready-to-wear label. “There was a demand for a fresher take on Savile Row,” explains Grant. “Tautz was a bit younger, so it seemed like the sensible u thing to do.”
Drapers / JULY 13 2013 _ 17
The owner of Norton & Sons and creative director of E Tautz is calmly going about the business of livening up men’s tailoring
CLOSE-UP I PATRICK GRANT
Drapers / JULY 13 2013 _ 18
E Tautz is launching a full pre-spring 14 womenswear collection
‘I’d hate to say we’ve made a success of E Tautz. We’re doing well but I think we’ve got a long way to go’ Grant decided to show E Tautz at London Fashion Week for spring 10 and the brand has since flourished, finding its identity among the other emerging London brands. “Autumn 13 looks incredible, very ‘English gentleman’ in a super-modern way,” says stockist Paul Baptiste, buying and operations manager at lifestyle indie The Shop at Bluebird in Chelsea. “If anything, [the link to Savile Row] brings a definite provenance and integrity to the collection, something our client loves.” The brand is proving popular abroad too, with eight stockists in Japan alone, as well as South Korea, China, and Vietnam, alongside the likes of department store Barneys in the US and The Corner online. The introduction of womenswear came next,
starting out as a small collection of men’s pieces shrunk to fit, but now expanded into a full collection for pre-spring 14, including shirts, blouses and knits. Combined turnover for last year at Norton & Sons and E Tautz was about £1.1m, with a profit of about £14,000. “I would hate to say at this point that we’ve made a success of Tautz. We’re doing well but I think we’ve got a long way to go.” With a thumb in another pie, Grant has also lent his expertise to British heritage brand Barbour, collaborating on its top-end Beacon Heritage Range. The three-season collaboration, which launches for autumn 13, balances the flair of Savile Row with the rugged masculinity of Barbour archive pieces. “Patrick is a larger-than-life figure but essentially a very nice bloke who has a real passion for clothing and a depth of experience,” says Ian Bergin, head of menswear at Barbour. GRANT’S NEXT STEP is the relaunch of another Norton & Sons sub-brand, the 250-year-old Hammond & Co, in a collaboration with high street retailer Debenhams for autumn 13. “We identified Patrick as the perfect fit for Debenhams. At the time he had Norton on the Row and E Tautz, but nothing on a more affordable level,” explains Debenhams senior menswear designer Alastair Waite. The many different strings to Grant’s bow are helping his business grow. His canny move to play on Norton & Sons’ tradition while rejuvenating, linking up, but at the same time differentiating each strand of the business has meant his menswear offer now covers a broad spectrum of the market while maintaining a sense of integrity and quality at its core. “Norton is the absolute apogee of beautiful luxury hand tailoring, while Tautz is a ready-to-wear Savile Row fashion house – it’s quite expensive,” Grant explains. “But Hammond is very democratic, it’s about taking the things I believe in and giving people who can’t afford Norton the chance to dress that way.” Born in Edinburgh in 1972, Grant’s interest in fashion started early. “I remember very clearly always being concerned about making sure my tie was neat and my jumper lined up, even when I was little,” he says proudly.
However, the path he took to a career in fashion was unusual. After gaining a Bachelor’s degree in Materials Science and Engineering he worked for a brewery, an engineering company, at a summer camp in Santa Cruz, as a nanny, a landscape gardener and a model agent, before studying an MBA in Business Administration at the University of Oxford. During his MBA, Grant came across an ad in the Financial Times announcing that Norton & Sons, the small Savile Row tailor established in 1821, was up for sale. “I thought ‘well that might be interesting’. So I decided to give it a go,” he says in his blasé, casual manner. He sold his house, got a loan and some “old mates” to invest, scraping together the money to buy. He then set about tidying up the tailor, rebranding, redecorating and hiring new top-level staff. Now with a highly skilled team of more than 20, Norton & Sons has tripled the amount of bespoke suits it produces to a respectable 300 a year, costing from £3,000 for a two-piece and each taking up to 12 weeks to finish. “We have a pretty young set of customers, which is great, because hopefully they’ll be with us for another 40 years,” says Grant. “Norton makes money – not huge amounts – but it probably turns over about a 10% [annual] profit.” When back at Oxford completing his MBA, Grant’s thesis looked at the regeneration of luxury fashion brands, focusing on the revitalisation of Burberry. Does he believe he has achieved a similar feat with the revitalisation of Norton & Sons? “Norton was in a voluntary arrangement with the receivers, it was on its knees and heading for the guillotine. It seems a bit funny to talk about it in those terms, because it’s very small in scale,” he says with a pause, twiddling his moustache as he thinks. “But yes, hopefully!” He seems almost surprised by the realisation. Was this not his plan all along? “I wish it was deliberate, I wish I’d been that clever,” he says with a laugh. “If you work very hard and you have good people around you, these things have a good chance. There’s not been a grand plan, it just feels like it’s evolved organically.” So has Grant finally found the job he’ll stick with? “As much as it’s been enjoyable, it’s been incredibly hard. But at the moment I’m enjoying this a lot,” he says, calmly adding: “I’m too old to do anything else.”
BRITISH BY DESIGN NORTHWEST LONDON IN ATTITUDE
INFO@WITHOUTPREJUDICE.COM
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SHOPWATCH
Dolce & Gabbana
_ New Bond Street Drapers / July 13 2013 _ 20
JOHn RYAn is Drapers’ stores editor and has a background in fashion buying. he has covered the sector for more than a decade
T
hink Dolce & Gabbana and the stock position is to say this is a brand that takes a knowingly wry look at the world of fashion and turns it on its head, creating something interesting and unexpected in the process. The label’s new men’s store on New Bond Street certainly does this, and there’s a sense that it does considerably more by posing as a member of the English establishment and then – not always subtly – undermining this position. However, Dolce & Gabbana spares no expense when it comes to creating the kind of interior that will appeal to the super-luxury crowd in search of something different. This is the kind of shop you’ll certainly feel pampered in, but there is also a good chance you’ll be surprised by the decor and merchandising. It is quite unlike anything else on london’s luxury lane.
02
COnCEPT
According to the store manager, the underlying concept is to combine the traditions of an English gentleman’s club with the baroque look of Sicily, with the contrast between checked wallpaper and rich flocked wallpaper serving to show how this store is a hybrid of two cultures. The artworks on display tread a fine line between art and pornography, with the painting of a floral-frocked woman holding an erect penis in her lap a case in point.
01
VISUAL mERCHAnDISInG
This is a big store and wherever you happen to look there are deft visual merchandising touches, ranging from the beautifully presented sunglasses on a vintage wood backdrop on the ground floor, to a nearby display case filled with crocodile
skin artefacts. In itself, the latter would hardly be remarkable, but if you combine small pictures of topless women, a condom or two (in packets) and a retro-looking vibrator peeking out of a crocodile skin case, then the display
becomes, if nothing else, eye-catching. Extensive use is made of vintage wardrobes, as well as open packing trunks. Even the very traditional and high-glosslooking barber at the back of the ground floor entices you to sit down to a shave.
THE BASICS ADDRESS 53-55 New Bond Street, London W1S SizE Three 6,253 sq ft floors AmbiEncE Sicilian/English hybrid OutStAnDing fEAtuRE The vintage furniture
03
05
Traditional and Italian would probably be the words of choice for this form of service. The staff are kitted out in black – suits for men and little black numbers for the women – and if you need refreshment a man in a white tunic bearing a silver salver is on hand. This is luxury of the kind that involves ostentatious pampering. The staff are also scrupulously polite and well-polished – and importantly, they possess that happy ability to make you feel you might also be similarly blessed.
There is competition all around this part of london for the high-spending male’s wallet, but those who come to this store will find items that are unlike those available in other emporia. At this level, impulse purchases do not really form a great part of the equation – everything is probably the result of
Room for improvement 01
It’s always hard to find fault with something that’s had as much attention to detail lavished on it as this project clearly has, but – and there is always a but – this is a store for a relatively narrow consumer demographic. Not only is this for shoppers with bulging wallets, but it also self-selects by being almost too perfect. It does for the top-end dandy what Ted Baker does for the better end of the mid-market, but inevitably that does mean an exclusive rather than an inclusive shop. There are, for the time being at least, no other problems with this store.
COmPETITIOn fairly careful consideration and research. What Dolce & Gabbana does do is to offer a look that is out there on its own – and if this is to the taste of the dandy promenading Bond Street, then nowhere else will match it. Taste is a highly individual thing, and this store is highly individual.
Drapers / July 13 2013 _ 21
SERVICE
04
PRODUCT
Everything about this shop shouts money; such is the world of luxury. That said, men’s suits start at around the £1,000 mark and head up to £1,700, which will secure a top-of-therange job. This is a price bracket that is certainly at the upper end of the scale, but
which does not begin to approach the price of bespoke. For those wishing to part with larger amounts of cash, there are one-off runway pieces. Buy from here and you are highly unlikely to enter a room where anyone else will be wearing the same thing.
06
VERDICT EvEryThINg fINE aNd daNdy
Ever wanted to strut? Ever felt the need to peacock? Ever wondered what it would feel like to turn heads, even if you’re plug ugly? If your pockets are deep enough, a visit to this store will probably raise a smile, leave you feeling better about yourself and enable you to exit onto Bond Street with the sartorial capacity to impress. This is a very good store and shows what can be done if money really is no object when it comes to both store interior and service. For the man about town, this is one of the better 42 50 places to spend a little time.
To see more pictures from this store, go to www.drapersonline.com/news/ shopwatch
ECOMM
TEXT
Similarity breeds content New software could revolutionise how shoppers search for clothes by recognising outfits in images
Drapers / JULY 13 2013 _ 22
KEELY STOCKER is online editor at Drapers and has extensive knowledge of online fashion and high-traffic websites
T
his autumn sees the launch of new technology that will enable consumers to search for products similar to those they see when browsing in shops, in magazines, or even when walking down the street. Called FindSimilar, the technology can be integrated into a retailer’s website or mobile app. For example, if a retailer offers the app, its customers can take a photo of a product they like, such as a top or skirt, in a competitor’s store and then see if the retailer offering the app stocks similar items. And it doesn’t just have to be in a store – the technology will work if customers take pictures of friends whose outfits they like, people in the street or even catwalk models. The technology was developed by software developer Cortexica. It works by mimicking the process between the human eye and the brain to spot similarities between products. It gives consumers the ability to constantly compare products and find inspiration. Iain McCready, chief executive of Cortexica, says: “It’s a bit like putting your own shop assistant into a competitor’s store. We all recognise that feeling of frustration after hunting for an item of clothing we’ve seen or admired, or the experience of finding something and wishing we could find a better or more affordable alternative. Our software is the answer to these problems.” The company explains the software in technical terms: “Cortexica’s team of neuroscientists, visual search scientists and machine learning engineers have replicated the way the eye and neurons interact when recognising and interpreting an image.
p Matchmaker: the image recognition technology can help users recreate the looks of strangers and celebrities alike
‘It is a bit like putting your own shop assistant into a competitor’s store’ Iain McCready, chief executive, Cortexica
“Cortexica uses what is called ‘parallel probabilistic computation’, which enables its software to learn over time, mimicking the calculations made by biological neurons in the visual cortex of the human brain.” Because the technology takes into account colours, styles and patterns, the photos taken do not have to be of an item of clothing. Users could take a picture of a pattern, wallpaper or colour they like and then use FindSimilar to locate products with a similar style. FindSimilar is being tested by a number of UK fashion retailers but is not due to go live until the autumn. However, this type of technology is sure to give consumers an entirely new way of filtering and personalising product, making them much more likely to go on to buy. For the latest on ecommerce, go to www.drapersonline.com/news/ ecommerce
Eden Park is thrilled to announce the appointment of
Double H Agency to handle its UK sales and distribution. President and founder of Eden Park, Franck Mesnel said of the news: “It has been a natural move to appoint Double H to develop our wholesale distribution in the UK. Their expertise and knowledge of the market as well as their proactive approach towards the retailers were key arguments when establishing our strategy for the brand.”
Eden Park, which is positioned in a sport chic universe
for over 25 years, offers a Spring-Summer 2014 collection faithful to its origins, focusing more than ever on the authenticity and quality. The palette that provides a spectrum of classical and bright colours is composed of shades of blue and pink with accents of yellow and army green. The sport inspiration is reflected in the work of stripes, stitching and trims, and the graphics have a vintage look giving the impression of sun fading and wear by the sea spray.
Eden Park’s Spring/Summer 2014 collection will be available to buy from 24th of June until mid August 2013. For appointments please contact Brand Manager Ward Mann on 0203 432 6485, or email Ward.doubleh@gmail.com
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DIRECTIONS Diesel Black Gold
DSquared
Gucci
Iceberg
Oliver Spencer
Andrea Pompilio
Prada
Christopher Raeburn
Christopher Raeburn
E Tautz
Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton
YMC
Agi & Sam
James Long
Drapers / July 13 2013 _ 25
Fendi
Emporio Armani Calvin Klein Collection
Calvin Klein Collection
Emporio Armani
Lou Dalton Gucci Junya Watanabe Man Raf Simons
Carven Salvatore Ferragamo
This week’s hero
Men’s spring outerwear Across all of this season’s menswear shows, outerwear has stood out for spring 14. Sporty silhouettes lead the way, coming through as sleek zip-through bombers, lightweight anoraks or simple hooded jackets in spring colours. The use of technical fabrics highlights the influence of performancewear on design, from mesh and military textiles to sculpted neoprene with bonded finishes that are sure to have buyers racing to snap up these collections.
CATWALKING.COM
Salvatore Ferragamo
Burberry Prorsum
Pointing the way to the most important products, people, stories and shows in fashion right now
THE BUZZ COLLAB WATCH — Cushe x Hoffman California
/ Fashion foreword /
Has everyone taken a commercial break? _ Ian Wright
Drapers / JULY 13 2013 _ 26
W
ith the closing of the Berlin shows last week the menswear buying season is rapidly coming to an end, so it seems as good a time as any to take stock. One thing I’ve certainly been aware of on my travels at home and abroad is how much more refined collections are looking. By ‘refined’ I don’t just mean smarter – although there is still plenty of that – but in general a more accurate and honed eye has been applied to even the most middle-of-the-road clothes. Details, cut and fabrics have all been tweaked to make something that should work well for each brand’s individual markets. Obviously there are still some right pigs – but the general standard is a lot higher, which is nice. But what’s really interesting is how premium and designer brands have moved towards showing more commercial shapes at their presentations and catwalks, as those operating in the mid-market and below use techniques and develop ideas previously only seen in the upper echelons. All across London, Florence, Milan and Paris, design teams have taken a more pragmatic view on range planning, leaving less room for superfluous ‘show pieces’ and maximising the saleability of their collections. Don’t get me wrong – this was no parade of identikit mannequins – but it was really refreshing to see. Take Kenzo, for example. How a brand can make a simple sweatshirt so covetable I’ll never know. But what I do know is I want the wave-embroidered one from the show. Badly. When all’s said and done it’s just a sweat with a logo and graphic on the front, which as a concept sounds incredibly archaic, but the fact that the shape is simple, the fabric good quality and the colour familiar makes for something I’d actually want to own. I’ll back simple, stylish commercial separates over show pieces any day, and I think so will the customers. Drapers fashion director / Ian.wright@emap.com
Don’t forget! Look out for...
British footwear brand Cushe has announced a totally tropical collaboration with Hoffman California Fabrics for spring 14. The men’s and women’s range pays homage to the surf style of Southern California, through a quirky selection of colourful print fabrics from the vast Hoffman library. Wholesale prices are on application. Contact: 020 7860 0100
/ Trendwatch /
Vivienne Westwood
Fendi
Time to go Junk shopping again Following its acquisition by the Minimum group last year, Danish premium menswear brand Junk de Luxe is relaunching for spring 14. The brand is back with a bang, offering a strong debut for its new collection. Think streetwear meets Savile Row, with some super-sharp tailoring combined with heavier zip-through jackets and moody prints, this season inspired by Damien Hirst. The brand is definitely worth a revisit. Wholesale prices range from £12.50 to £115. Contact: 00 45 86 20 64 64
Missoni
SHADE IN AND OUT
Ombré is big this season, with tonal shading set to translate well onto the high street. Previously favoured in the streetwear market, this season shows a more premium take on the trend.
HERE COME THE GIRLS Pick up next week’s mag for our biggest issue of the season: the Womenswear Special
TRADE SHOWS LIVE Visit www.drapersonline.com for reports from trade shows as they happen
THE STYLE COUNCIL I DIRECTIONS
This week’s panel
Nick Keyte At London Collections: Men a variety of trends emerged – from eclectic prints to muted, pared-back outerwear. For John Lewis (pictured), prints and patterns taken directly from our archive are key to the spring 14 collection, and there is an emphasis on exceptional quality and British heritage.
Luke Conod The strongest men’s trend emerging this season is strong bright prints on shirts, whether it’s a paisley print, fluoro or Aztec. For us, the brand that’s leading the way is Diesel (pictured). Its of-themoment shirts are really driving sales in store.
REECE CRISP Contemporary and designer menswear buyer at Selfridges
LUKE CONOD Managing director of young fashion indie Fit in Hereford
AMY RYCROFT Men’s accessories buyer at young fashion chain Urban Outfitters
NICK KEYTE Head of buying for menswear at John Lewis
Reece Crisp It’s been really interesting to see how designers are keeping the streetwear aesthetic alive. It’s something that was prevalent in Milan and has been continued in Paris. Wide leg shapes are a big trend focus (Damir Doma, pictured) .
Amy Rycroft The street and skate trend is still prevalent and continues to gain momentum, with accessories more key to this particular look (Versace, pictured). Brands are being much more explorative with prints and patterns, which is really exciting to see.
WANT TO BE PART OF THE STYLE COUNCIL? Visit www.drapersonline.com/stylecouncil to tell us your thoughts on this week’s question
Drapers / JULY 13 2013 _ 27
What spring 14 menswear trends have you spotted?
www.sandcopenhagen.com 路 facebook.com/sandcopenhagen 路 Distribution by FourMarketing 路 +44 (0)20 7608 9100
DIRECTIONS I BRANDWATCH
Drapers / JULY 13 2013 _ 30
Button-down collars and breathable cotton combine smartness and comfort
This embroidered grizzly bear design showcases the brand’s distinctive, quirky approach
I Love Ugly The New Zealand brand proves that beauty is in the eye of the beholder, writes GRAEME MORAN THE BASICS WHOLESALE PRICES £14 to £70 WEBSITE www.iloveugly.net TELEPHONE 01637 879530
A
sk menswear buyers in the know what brand they are currently keeping an eye on and those willing to give away their secret will tell you three words: I Love Ugly. Concentrating on menswear classics, design quirks and a sense of eccentric humour makes each of the young fashion brand’s pieces interesting and unique. “We focus on giving our customers products that can improve their lives without damaging their wallet too badly,” says Valentin Ozich, the brand’s creative director and founder.
Standout pieces include slim tapered chinos, a perfect smart-casual 2sb blazer, fun matching shirts and shorts twin sets, selvedge denim, embroidered patterns and printed five-panel caps. The brand doesn’t follow the traditional two-season cycle, meaning new product revitalises the offer with 11 drops a year. “We like to keep our offer fresh and updated. We do this because it keeps our customers engaged but it keeps our jobs interesting too,” says Ozich. For many brands, monthly injections mean chasing trends and keeping up with other labels, but not at I Love Ugly. Each mini collection moves in a fresh direction, adding categories including footwear and accessories. “The way we release product every month gives us the opportunity to think of new ideas
off the cuff and get them out there quickly, which does have its benefits,” says Ozich. Although prone to selling out of new product instantly, the brand’s somewhat ‘limited edition’ reputation is just an accident, Ozich insists. “We just produce how much we feel we need, and up to now more people have wanted our products than we’ve produced,” he says. “Some products we design, we make once and we never make again – we don’t call them limited edition but I suppose in some ways they are.” With a wholesale push here in the UK and plans to open standalone stores on these shores, being Ugly has never looked better. Stay up to date with the latest hot brands by visiting www.drapersonline.com /news/brandwatch
The perfect fit Proud sponsor of “Manufacturer of the Year” award
020 7436 0220 www.fashionpersonnel.co.uk
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THE EDIT Drapers / JULY 13 2013 _ 33
Menswear spring 14
Introduction by Ian Wright
For our spring 14 Menswear Special we made our usual seasonal pilgrimage to what is still widely regarded as the premier menswear trade show, Pitti Uomo, and found menswear getting ever bolder and more experimental. It was refreshing to see brands taking risks and playing with colour, surface texture and print. This movement towards something a little more unusual has been building momentum for a few seasons, but without having really cracked spring collections. Where autumn seasons lend themselves to textural interplay with layering, chunkier fabrics and darn good coats, the lighter weight springs have tended to fall a little flat. But no longer – there’s now real critical mass behind the punchy tones and playful detailing at all levels of the market. One of the big trends to pop up was unabashed colour throughout collections. Conversely there was a more peaceful but no less compelling theme emerging, with simple combinations and stripped-back design making a big statement. No matter what tickles your fancy this season, just make sure it’s got something to say.
u
Drapers / july 13 2013 _ 34
TOP of the POPS
Spring 14 starts with a riot of colour – all carefully considered, of course
Photography by
JEFF HAHN
Fashion director
IAN WrIgHt
Junior fashion editor
grAEmE morAN
Junior fashion writer
EmIly NorvAl
Jacket Barbour x Norton & Sons, £121.85; jumper Henri Lloyd, £31.84; jeans Jean Machine, £61
Drapers / july 13 2013 _ 36
This page Jacket Baracuta, £136; shirt Common People, £60; jeans Nudie Jeans, £33 Opposite page Cape Stutterheim, £188.26; shorts Woolrich, £45
Drapers / july 14 2012 _ 58 This page Coat Stutterheim, £80; shirt Brutus, £20.50; blazer Brook Taverner, £50; trousers Henri Lloyd, £29.38 Opposite page Jacket Parka, £85; shirt Common People, £30; trousers Henri Lloyd, £29.38
Shirt Tommy Hilfiger, £POA; T-shirt Champion, £5.95; trousers Henri Lloyd, £29.38; belt RM Williams, £22; trainers Superga, £18.75
Drapers / july 13 2013 _ 43 This page Jumper Henri Lloyd, £33.29; shorts Joules, £20.85; jacket Henri Lloyd, £43.09; trainers Superga, £18.75 Opposite page Jacket Common People, £100; T-shirt Rockford, £2.99; trousers Farah Vintage £18.50; sunglasses Persol, £107
Drapers / july 13 2013 _ 44
Suit Lambretta, £70; shirt Fedeli, £67; jacket Tom & Hawk, £78; sandals Ancient Greek Sandals, £45 Hair and make-up Ivona Milosevic at MKS Milano Model Davis at Elite Fashion assistants Aisling Megan, Amy Ryall & Alice Trueman
Photography by
JEFF HAHN
Fashion director
IAN WrIgHt
Junior fashion editor
grAEmE morAN
Junior fashion writer
EmIly NorvAl
STRONG silent type
The simplicity of the season’s most interesting pieces belies their subtle sartorial flair
Drapers / July 13 2013 _ 49 Previous pages Blazer Common People, £65; jumper Soulland, £120; shirt Vacant, £16; jeans Tommy Hilfiger, £POA This page Blazer Sand, £130; jumper Alan Paine, £35; shirt Guide London, £22 Opposite page Blazer Lutwyche, £775; jacket Peter Werth, £44.50; T-shirt Rockford, £2.99; shorts Lyle & Scott, £24
Blazer Sand, £111; shirt £42, pocket square £14, both Eden Park
Blazer Eden Park, £114; jumper Remus Uomo, £POA; shorts Aigle, £28
Drapers / July 13 2013 _ 52
This page Jacket Musto, £125; polo shirt RM Williams, £26; trousers Gabicci Vintage, £20 Opposite page Coat Stutterheim, £210; knitted top Common People, £24
This page Shirt Soulland, £95; jumper Barbour Beacon Heritage Collection, £73.70 Opposite page Jacket Peter Werth, £44.50; shirt Quiksilver, £22; chinos Soulland, £95
Drapers / July 13 2013 _ 57 This page Blazer Peter Werth, £63; T-shirt Jean Machine, £32; sunglasses Persol, £107; shorts Joules, £18.75 Opposite page Jacket Kele, £64.55; polo shirt Rockford, £3.99 Hair and make-up Ivona Milosevic at MKS Milano Model Jacopo at Beatrice Fashion assistants Aisling Megan, Amy Ryall & Alice Trueman
DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT
A COAT FOR ALL OCCASIONS
Drapers / July 13 2013 _ 58
With lightweight fabrics, winter outerwear classics like the parka are reimagined for blustery spring days
1
2
3 4
1. Luke £48.15 2. Remus Uomo £POA 3. Lavenham £89.10 4. Elvine £50
Bright & techy
Primary colours and simple shapes will brighten up grey skies
2
Drapers / July 13 2013 _ 59
1
Technical fabrics keep summer jackets ultra-lightweight as well as weather-proof
3
4
1. Henri Lloyd £43.09 2. Musto £87.50 3. Joules £33.35 4. Aigle £58
DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT
BOMBiNg ArOUND
1
From all-out sporty to military styles, the bomber is set to explode in spring 14 2
Drapers / July 13 2013 _ 60
3
4
1. Starter £50 2. Diesel £70.59 3. Remus Uomo £POA 4. Alpha Industries £40
checky chAppies
1
Often a winter staple, the checked shirt has been reworked in lighter hues and cottons 2
3
4
1. RM Williams £28 2. Aigle £28 3. Joules £25 4. Henri Lloyd £29.38
DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT
Mix ‘n’ Match
Subtle tonal differences keep the look from being too outlandish
2
Classic blue and grey shirts do things a little differently, with mismatched sleeves or plackets adding interest
Drapers / July 13 2013 _ 62
1
1. Pal Zileri £POA 2. Luke £31.50
GinGham style
3
No longer just a school uniform staple, classic gingham moves back into the spotlight for spring 1
2
1. Musto £30 2. Bar Harbour £POA 3. Brutus £20.50
Keep it Buttoned
Whether formal or casual, button-down collar shirts are staple pieces
1
Additional button details on pockets push the trend even further
5
Drapers / July 13 2013 _ 63
2
3
4
6
7
1. RM Williams £32 2. Guide London £22 3. Joules £25 4. Peter Werth £23.50 5. Filippa K £38 6. Craghoppers £18.60 7. Lambretta £12.50
DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT
Denim Delights
1
Chambray, acid wash or sleek and dark – lightweight denim shirts are top of the tops 2
Drapers / July 13 2013 _ 64
3
1. MOD £20.41 2. Tommy Hilfiger £POA 3. Pepe Jeans London £85
Concealed buttons pare back the look, making denim work in a more formal way
Pocketful of fun
3
Contrast pockets continue to stand out, making a statement on otherwise simple T-shirts and polos 1
2
1. Farah Vintage £12.95 2. Guide London £15 3. JayK £8
For all sales enquiries please contact MICHAEL PARKER michaelp@guideclothing.co.uk tel: 0207 481 1111 fax: 0207 481 2222 www.guideclothing.co.uk Celebrating 25 Years: 1988 -2013
DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT
TROUSERS WITH ATTITUDE
3
The trend for brightly coloured jeans and chinos endures, with a rainbow of options available 2
Drapers / July 13 2013 _ 66
1
4
5
Simple straight legs prevent bold pieces from overwhelming
1. Gabicci Vintage £20 2. Farah Vintage £18.50 3. Henri Lloyd £29.38 4. Aigle £31 5. Craghoppers £23.30
1 2
PICK YOUR POCKETS
The five-pocket jean isn’t going anywhere – in fact it’s back with a bang for spring 14 5
4
Selvedge detailing is still an important sign of quality
1. Tommy Hilfiger £POA 2. Diesel £117.65 3. Luke £34.60 4. Jean Machine £63 5. Pepe Jeans London £58 6. Nudie Jeans £95
6
Drapers / July 13 2013 _ 67
3
WWW.NICHOLASDEAKINS.COM 00(44)113 244 6875
THe ediT I DIRECTIONS
short notice
1
Chino and cargo styles get the colour treatment again this season
Drapers / July 13 2013 _ 69
2
3
5
4
1. Luke £27 2. Henri Lloyd £25.46 3. Joules £20.85 4. Skopes from £12.95 5. Aigle £21
Pleated fronts add a formality to this traditionally casual style
AciD test
Acid and enzyme washes give simple T-shirts a well-worn charm
Pastel tones work well on this lightweight cotton
1 2
1. JayK £9 2. MOD £8.48
DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT
PATTERN UP
3
Shirts don’t get to have all the fun for spring 14 – shorts are getting the printed treatment too 2
1
Drapers / July 13 2013 _ 70
1. Lyle & Scott £24 2. Aigle £28 3. Joules £18.75
go retro
Printed T-shirts are given a twist with artful placements and collage
4
3
1
2
Watercolour prints soften graphics to give a charming overall effect
1. Henri Lloyd £13.71 2. Vacant £10 3. Pepe Jeans London £40 4. Judge & Jury £7
Showing SS14 at Jacket Required – Stand Number 27 www.parkalondon.com enquiries@parkalondon.com
DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT
3
GRAND OLD MEN
The collarless grandad shirt makes a return in a range of options for spring 14, proving there’s life in the old style yet 1
2
Drapers / July 13 2013 _ 72
1. Volcom £22 2. Diesel £27.45 3. JayK £10
Irregular fIxtures
Marls and overdying add new textures to staple shapes
3
1
2
1. Tommy Hilfiger £POA 2. Manuel Ritz £POA 3. Musto £45
2
CaBle guYs
Surface interest is key for summer-weight knits, with a distinctive range of cable patterns leading the way 4
3
Placement cables give a lighter feel to finer knits
1. Gabicci Vintage £28 2. Henri Lloyd £33.29 3. Remus Uomo £POA 4. Musto £45
Drapers / July 13 2013 _ 73
1
DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT
BLAZING HEAT
Largely unlined and sometimes even dishevelled, spring blazers bring smartness to the sunshine 2
1
Drapers / July 13 2013 _ 74
5
4
3
1. Brook Taverner £60 2. Pal Zileri £POA 3. Manuel Ritz £POA 4. Lutwyche £775 5. Peter Werth £63
MeN at WOrK
4
Updates on classic styles strike a balance between rugged functionality and smart formality
Workwear blazer styles still have the crafty feel, while navy blue is the colour 2 1
3
1. Esprit £50 2. Parka £60 3. Farah Vintage £38 4. Realm & Empire £46
STRONG SUITS
2
Summer tailoring is kept simple, clean and spare this season
Drapers / July 13 2013 _ 75
1
1. Paul Costelloe £110 2. Pal Zileri £POA 3. Skopes from £68
3
Subtle summer checks give a fresh update to the workplace
DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT
Drapers / july 13 2013 _ 76
BRAND LIST A Aigle 01608 813860 www.aigle.com Alan Paine 01623 522570 www.alanpaine.co.uk Alpha Industries 01869 366580 www.alphaindustries.com Ancient Greek Sandals 020 3227 4983 www.ancientgreeksandals.com B Bar Harbour 01924 375651 www.doubletwo.co.uk Baracuta 07773 775092 www.baracuta.com Barbour 0800 009988 www.barbour.com Brook Taverner 01535 251900 www.brooktaverner.co.uk Brutus 020 7224 4882 www.brutus-trimfit.com C Champion 00 35 386 609 3116 www.championusa.com Common People 07887 730761 www.commonpeopleclothing.co.uk Craghoppers 01618 660532 www.craghoppers.com D Diesel 020 7520 7700 www.diesel.com E Eden Park 020 3432 6387 www.uk.eden-park.com Elvine 020 7725 5700 www.elvine.se Esprit 020 7406 1434 www.esprit.com F Farah Vintage 020 7291 7630 www.farah.co.uk
Fedeli 020 7584 4430 www.fedelicashmere.com Filippa K 00 46 8 615 70 00 www.filippa-k.com G Gabicci Vintage 01442 233700 www.gabicci.com Guide London 020 7481 1111 www.guideclothing.co.uk H Henri Lloyd 01617 991212 www.henrilloyd.co.uk J JayK 01923 824262 www.jaykfashion.com Jean Machine 020 7349 9030 www.thejeanmachine.com Joules 01858 435261 www.joules.com Judge & Jury 01618 646030 www.judgeandjury.biz K Kele 00 36 70 313 9378 www.keleclothing.com L Lambretta 020 7637 1560 www.thelambrettastore.com Lavenham 01787 379535 www.lavenhamjackets.com Luke 01869 366580 www.luke1977.com Lutwyche 020 7287 5455 www.lutwyche.co.uk Lyle & Scott 0844 244 7000 www.lyleandscott.com M MOD 020 3432 6385 www.monopol-mod.com Manuel Ritz 020 3358 0030 www.manuelritz.com
Jacket, Parka; jumper, Henri Lloyd; shirt, Filippa K
Musto 01268 491555 www.musto.com N Nudie Jeans 07887 792996 www.nudiejeans.com P Pal Zileri 020 7307 0886 www.palzileri.com Parka 020 3358 0030 www.parkalondon.com Paul Costelloe 020 7637 1560 www.paulcostelloeman.com Pepe Jeans London 020 7408 4008 www.pepejeans.com Persol 00 39 02 863341 www.persol.com Peter Werth 020 7580 6393 www.peterwerth.co.uk Q Quiksilver 020 7392 4020 www.quiksilver.co.uk R RM Williams 00 61 8 8259 1007 www.rmwilliams.com.au Realm & Empire 07446 110138 www.realmandempire.com Remus Uomo 02893 327828 www.remusuomo.com
Rockford 01159 770009 www.dukeclothing.com S Sand 020 7608 9100 www.sandcopenhagen.com Skopes 01132 402211 www.skopes.co.uk Soulland 00 45 2615 0186 www.soulland.com Starter 01296 658717 www.starterblacklabel.co.uk Stutterheim 07833 453515 www.stutterheim.com Superga 01250 876914 www.superga.co.uk T Tom & Hawk 07738 786724 www.tomandhawk.com Tommy Hilfiger 020 3144 0900 www.tommy.com V Vacant 01273 670455 www.vacantclothing.co.uk Volcom 0845 4865266 www.volcom.com W Woolrich 020 7608 9100 www.woolrich.com
CrĂŠation Gross GmbH & Co. KG // HoubirgstraĂ&#x;e 7 // 91217 Hersbruck // Phone +44 (0) 207 937 58 63 E-Mail: g.remmler@carlgross.com // carlgross.com
Drapers / July 13 2013 _ 78
DIRECTIONS I Spring 14 collectionS
Glittering occasion: the opening party at Bread & Butter
Berlin trade shows
The city’s six exhibitions offered plenty for buyers to splash their budgets on Words by EMILY NORVAL & VICTORIA GALLAGHER
Drapers / July 13 2013 _ 79
T
he Berlin trade shows had a more varied atmosphere and mix of brands for spring 14 than in the past few seasons. contemporary exhibition capsule hosted an impressive range of brands at various price points, and from early on the opening day its show halls were busy. premium streetwear show Seek lacked the freshness of previous seasons, with fewer new names than before, although it still stood out for the quality of design in its brand mix. upmarket show premium heaved with international buyers, demonstrating there is money to be spent in the european market, and reaction from stand owners was positive. Mainstream event panorama still suffered from the isolation of its out-of-town location, although brands told Drapers that while footfall was intermittent, it was higher than last season. Street and skatewear show Bright was also well-attended, with some big names including o’neill and Adidas exhibiting. Finally, Bread & Butter, the biggest show by far, had a mixed three days, feeling crowded on the Wednesday but much quieter on the tuesday and thursday. Brands told Drapers the new €500 (£430) fee for non-buyer attendees had filtered out the crowds, leaving a higher quality of buyers than usual. overall, they reported that they were happy with the show. read on to discover our top brand picks from across the six shows. To catch up on the Berlin shows as they happened and view picture galleries, visit www.drapersonline.com/fashion
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DIRECTIONS I Spring 14 collectionS
Bread & Butter Big John
Drapers / July 13 2013 _ 80
Men’s denim label Big John is one of Japan’s oldest denim brands, having been founded in the 1960s. This season it is debuting a cotton and linen blend shirt range, alongside its high-quality Japanese selvedge denim. Wholesale prices range from £49 to £58. Contact: 00 81 33 37 80 711 www.bigjohn.co.jp
Capsule paste US brand Paste is moving into bags by offering a range of canvas totes for men in shades of tobacco, navy and khaki. Paste started as a graphic T-shirt brand nine years ago and Capsule marked its European trade show debut. The collection includes swim shorts with quirky prints alongside its core range of graphic and slogan-based T-shirts. Wholesale prices range from £11 to £64. Contact: 00 1 718 554 0113 www.pasteusa.com
Capsule Qhuit Parisian brand Qhuit has doubled the size of its collection, producing more than 250 pieces for spring 14. It is looking to crack the UK market, where at present it has only one stockist. Spring 14 sees a musical influence come to the fore, with printed notes across T-shirts and jerseys. Wholesale prices range from €35 (£30) for T-shirts to €80 (£69) for shirts. Contact: 00 33 1 55 29 01 31 www.qhuit.com
Bright ergo Men’s surfwear brand Ergo hails from New Jersey in the US. Key pieces include panelled shorts in forest green, burgundy and navy, printed boardshorts and washed-out stripy T-shirts. Wholesale prices start at k13 (£11) for T-shirts and go up to k36 (£31) for denim. Contact: 00 49 30 25 92 80 95 www.boardwalk-berlin.com
Top 5 Trends 1. Ombré
Already a hit during the men’s fashion weeks in Milan, Paris and London, brands have jumped onto the colour fade bandwagon. Orange was the most popular colour for the ombré effect, as seen in particular across knits for men and blouses for women.
2. Printed outerwear
Drapers / July 13 2013 _ 81
Taking a hint from the unpredictable weather of last spring, spring 14 has seen brands focusing on honing their outerwear. Prints are carried through from shirts and T-shirts onto showerproof anoraks and cagoules, adding a hint of cool to practical pieces.
3. New camo
Hardly a new trend, but still a staple of streetwear, camo print is everywhere. Reinvented in pastel colours, or used as a contrast print on sleeves or pockets, the military textile was mostly used as a detail rather than an all-over look.
4. Pared-back denim
In previous seasons we’ve seen denim in every guise, from reversible to acid wash, coated to dungarees. Spring 14 sees a return to plainer styles, with raw or unwashed denim notably popular and fabric quality emphasised over jazzy designs.
5. Contrast shirts
ON THE RADAR — Farah Vintage [Seek] Farah Vintage has launched a basics range for spring 14, including T-shirts and shirts, which will be available all year round. Also new on the agenda is a full swimwear collection, following on from a trial launch for autumn 13. Six new styles of swim shorts will use the same prints as those in the Farah Vintage shirt range. Wholesale prices start at £12 for T-shirts, £20 to £26 for shirts and £34 to £46 for jackets.
Shirts have moved away from the usual prints with contrast panels a big hit, placed either vertically or horizontally, particularly across short-sleeved styles. Toning down prints with a plainer panel makes the trend more accessible (Saint Paul, pictured).
Contact: 020 7291 7657 www.farah.co.uk
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DIRECTIONS I spring 14 coLLections
Premium BLack BaLLooN
Drapers / JULY 13 2013 _ 82
Belgian men’s and women’s brand Black Balloon showcased a striking array of personal prints taken from the brand’s designers’ family photos. Key womenswear pieces for spring 14 include a reversible dress in shades of apple and fuchsia, while menswear offers matching sets of shirts and shorts, basic T-shirts and shirts with contrast panels. Wholesale prices range from £48 to £92. Contact: 00 32 49 65 00 406 www.blackballoon.be
ON THE RADAR — Nana Judy [Bread & Butter] With 15 UK stockists for its autumn 13 debut, including Coggles and young fashion etailer Spoiled Brat, Nana Judy hopes to woo further retailers with its spring 14 collection. The Australian brand offers a selection of matching printed shorts and shirts for men, and sequined dresses, coloured denim and chiffon blouses for women. Wholesale prices range from £19 to £41. Contact: 020 7739 1414 www.nanajudy.com.au
Bread & Butter Love NaiL tree
Love Nail Tree is a men’s and women’s brand born and made in Los Angeles, which is looking to break into the UK market. From dresses to vests, T-shirts and sweaters, each item is made using 100% organic fabric and every print tells a story. The story is printed inside each garment. Wholesale prices range from £16 to £28. Contact: 00 1 213 985 1078 www.lovenailtree.com
Bright aPoLLo krieg
Bread & Butter muchacho
This Australian brand has launched a swimwear range for spring 14. The men’s and women’s range features printed swimming costumes and shorts using photographs of landscapes, including beach and city scenes, taken around the world. In the mainline, key pieces include printed maxi dresses and graphic T-shirts. Wholesale prices range from £12 to £57. Contact: 00 61 404 557 510 www.muchachoclothing.com
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German brand Apollo Krieg has expanded beyond its T-shirt-only range by launching jackets and trousers for spring 14. The collection now features jogging bottoms, hoodies and sporty zip-through tops in peach, grey, black and white tones. The brand, which is the brainchild of Berlin design studio SuperStupidBros, is also a record label. Wholesale prices range from £20 to £51. Contact: 00 49 30 29 35 27 57 www.apollokrieg.com
Seek camiNaNdo Japanese footwear brand Caminando offers a new collection of shoes each season, with the aim of never repeating specific styles. It mixes classic styles such as loafers and laced Oxford shoes with bright colours. For spring 14 the brand has used rubber trainer-type soles, creating ultra-lightweight product. Wholesale prices range from £33 to £80. Contact: 00 81 3 3464 6588 www.caminando.jp
u
DIRECTIONS I spring 14 coLLections
Bright CleptoManiCx
Q&a panorama Thomas Herter, area sales manager for womenswear brand Marc Cain
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Cleptomaniacx has cut down its collection for spring 14 from 500 to 300 pieces and taken a more directional stance. This season, print inspiration comes from Hawaii, camo and travelling, with graphic designs added to basic pieces. The brand is set to be stocked by Asos for autumn 13 but is looking to increase its UK accounts. Wholesale prices range from £13 to £52. Contact: 00 49 40 43 25 43 00 www.cleptomanicx.de
Capsule saint paul
Belgian menswear brand Saint Paul caught Drapers’ eye with its impressive range of placement prints across its collection of 100% cotton shirts. The brand uses the humorous prints to craft beautiful premium pieces which have a tactile quality. Wholesale prices range from £17 to £71. Contact: 00 32 25 14 40 18 www.welcometosaintpaul. com
Bread & Butter My Boo
T-shirt brand My Boo stood out at Bread & Butter thanks to its quirky designs. The Rome-based brand produces two collections for both men and women per year, as well as a handful of flash ranges so stockists can keep their offer looking fresh. Wholesale prices range from £10 to £13. Contact: 00 39 06 88 64 46 92 www.myboo.it
What’s new for spring 14? We wanted to offer our retailers new concepts and values, and we are showing a selection of different groups within the collection. For the first time we are offering a separate ‘outdoor’ collection with a range of outerwear, and we have also separated denim and knitwear into their own collections to really focus on a range of key products, giving us several points of sale. We also have a new, limited collection for which we created jumpers and t-shirts out of unique designs from bloggers. We’ve also created a separates collection away from the main fashion offering with basic skirts and shirts available in different colours. What do buyers need to know about your spring 14 range? this one collection has 800 pieces and as we are selling into a range of countries including russia, china and Australia, we need to have a varied selection. in response to customer feedback we have increased the range of colour options for key items like outerwear. Where do you produce the garments? We have all our production in germany. We have 800 people doing printing, designing and finishing, which means we have total control of product. the consumer is getting more sensitive season after season, especially after what happened in Bangladesh.
DIRECTIONS I Menswear spring 14
Paris Menswear
Bold colours and unexpected silhouettes turned heads on the Paris catwalks Words by Emily Norval
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BEST IN SHOW RaF SImonS There was a boyishness to Simons’ collection, reminiscent partly of school PE kits and partly of 1990s streetwear. It was a bold move in a season that has seen commerciality reign supreme, but this stark reminder of the relationship between fashion and art walked the line of eccentricity without compromising on the reality of wearable clothes. Colours Pop art brights, from bold pink, teal and blue to shots of yellow and violet. Fabrics Synthetic fabrics, bonded finishes, sequins, jerseys and cottons. Items ‘Playsuit’ polo shirt and shorts combinations, bold shirts, graphic bombers and oversized tunics. Theme Pop art goes sporty.
Kenzo A relaxed collection from Kenzo with a nod to Californian surfer style saw some wearable pieces in a bright spring collection. Prints were strong, as were solid blocks of primary colours, giving a sense of cohesion to a varied range which blended streetwear elements with premium fabrics. Colours Yves Klein blue, bright red and monochrome. Fabrics Neoprene, cotton linens, satin and nylon trims. Items Loose, knee-length shorts, three-quarter length trousers, boxy sweaters and deconstructed jackets over neoprene T-shirts. Theme A homage to the Pacific Ocean and the California coast.
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LouIS VuITTon This season Kim Jones explored the broad spectrum of the US, from the slick suits of Wall Street bankers to the relaxed sporty styles of college varsity and the technical outerwear of park rangers. A strong blend of formal-meets-informal for spring, tied together by the theme of the American road trip. Colours Tan, khaki, bright red and tones of blue from greyish to navy. Fabrics Leather, lightweight cotton and silks, suede and LV logo jacquard. Items Leather jackets, a bright red LV logo varsity jacket, relaxed tailoring as well as more formal styles in suiting, and technical parkas embroidered with boy scout-style badges. Theme The American dream.
DIoR Homme Kris Van Assche’s collection demonstrated subtle changes to the same overarching design, with elegant patchwork suiting transposed into different cuts. A collection with the potential to satisfy many, but maybe a little too limited to thrill. Colours Deep mauve paired with black and some zingy shots of violet. Fabrics Leather, satin trims, lightweight suiting and cotton. Items Neat button-down jackets with crisp matching shorts, and sb jackets in a variety of styles and in sleeveless options. Theme The mirrored background to the catwalk emphasised the reflective theme, with each look literally a reflection u on the last.
DIRECTIONS I Menswear spring 14
SaInT LauRenT Hedi Slimane continues to be inspired by ultra-skinny rock ‘n’ roll types, adding a pinch of glam to the look. The collection looked more like an eveningwear version of autumn 13 than a fair-weather counterpart, but in fairness, few rockers are ever seen in shorts and sandals. Colours Bright reds and yellows paired with black, white, silver and even hot pink. Fabrics Leather, pale denim, satin, cotton, silks and fine mesh wool. Items Skin-tight trousers in leather or denim. Blazers from cropped to longer length, with satin trims or high-shine embellishments. Biker jackets in checkerboard print and silky bombers. Theme Slimane’s signature rock ‘n’ roller, with high-glam David Bowie references.
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3.1 PHILLIP LIm A quirky, eclectic range from Lim and one of the most fun and commercial of the Paris catwalk shows. Sure to be a hit with buyers. Colours Blues, from royal to turquoise, bold pillarbox red and dusty sand, as well as a host of multicoloured floral prints. Fabrics Linen, leather, lightweight cotton, metallic details and neoprene. Items Slouchy oversized linen shirts and trousers in big checks or with fringe detail, bombers and deep V-neck T-shirts with floral details which carried over to shirts and shorts. Boxy motorcycle jackets had multicolour metallic details. Theme World traveller. A mix of looks from tropical flowers to sandy linens, evoking a super-summery vibe.
HeRmÈS An informal collection by Hermès, with classic luxury underwritten by the finest fabrics and soft silhouettes. Colours Royal blue, teal, stone, sky blue, chocolate and navy. Fabrics Soft leather, lambswool, cotton and linen. Items Laid-back tailoring with slim-cut db and sb blazers layered over casual boat-neck T-shirts or nothing at all. Chino trousers were slightly cropped and styled with slip-on shoes without socks. Ultralightweight anoraks and even a boiler suit added a sportier element. Theme Casual extravagance, befitting the Hermès brand. The fabrics were luxurious but accessible in relaxed cuts, with soft silhouettes and subtle prints.
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A muted palette of black and stone was enlivened by touches of bright blues and purples
LanVIn
DRIeS Van noTen
The masterful focus on silhouette in the first half of the collection gave way to a focus on glamour and texture in the second, which, when combined led to a peculiarly eclectic range that should satisfy a variety of tastes. Colours Primarily black, white and stone, but interspersed with violet, purple, royal blue and gunmetal elements. Fabrics Silks, viscose, wet-look leather, fine cotton and textured fine knits. Items Oversized belted trench coats, colour-blocked shirts, drop-waist soft trousers with tight ankle cuffs and matching slouchy T-shirts, and jazzy panelled bombers. Theme Slouchy silhouettes with finishes as slick as the models’ hair.
Dries Van Noten’s spring 14 collection was a kind of ghostly garden, with dark and moody florals permeating each look. Technical elements rescued the overall collection from appearing too ‘boys being girls’ and left some commercially appealing streetwear-style pieces. Colours Black, gold, khaki and taupe, as well as hints of paler blues and pinks. Fabrics Soft velvets, sheers and jacquards, set against heavier cottons and some technical outerwear fabrics. Items Oversized trench coats with embroidery details, long robe-like coats and the obligatory spring 14 bombers and anoraks. Cotton tailored shorts and jackets added a slightly more formal look. Themes Blooms for the boys.
stores I Visual merchandising
Seeing is believing
Product is king but the polish on the crown is provided by great visual merchandising
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Words by Suzanne Bearne
W
hy do some customers walk into one particular store instead of another? yes, a 50-something woman might not be hankering after a floral dress from miss selfridge, but an eye-catching window can pull in drifting customers who hadn’t previously planned to step through the door. While price plays one of the most important roles in a shopper’s decision-making process, visual merchandising (Vm) can capture her attention, encourage her to run her fingers along garments hanging on rails and, along with store design and layout, can persuade her to browse other products – and ultimately purchase them. On the high street, retailers continue to invest in Vm. Perhaps no other retailer’s moves in this area are in the spotlight – and debated so hotly – as those of marks & spencer, which is attempting to battle against flagging clothing sales. The business is investing in shop refits and segmenting each of its clothing brands to create distinct looks and identities, almost like shops within shops. Still, MarkS & Spencer continues to receive criticism for its product density – an area the retailer claims to be addressing. ryan Becker, m&s’s head of product presentation for lingerie and beauty, says: “We have an aspiration [to have] less product density. We are introducing a new system to replace stock quicker so we don’t need as much on the shop floor.” Overwhelming customers with product isn’t a practice just restricted to m&s. Value
and discount chains are often criticised for this, with critics suggesting too much stock creates a poor shopping experience. Jonathan Baker, course director of fashion retail branding and visual merchandising at london college of Fashion, cites Jane norman as one retailer that needs to scale back on its stock. “The amount of merchandise it has in an environment in which people are supposed to shop is hopeless,” he says. “i don’t know how people like to shop there.” at the other end of the market, the more premium retailers tend to offer a very different experience. Jaeger head of visual merchandising Tracy mclennan says: “We retain the luxurious and elegant nature of our offer by keeping low product densities that allow each piece to ‘breathe’ and maintain its focus on the shop floor.” For david dalziel, group creative director and co-founder of design consultancy dalziel + Pow, density in itself is not an issue. “many retailers embrace density as a virtue; it is their policy to present a huge choice and depth of range. Without density they may not have the appeal they achieve. The shoppers are in control here. They choose the brands and the store experiences they prefer.” dalziel says Zara is one of the few exceptions to this rule. “in its recent flagship fit in Park house on Oxford street it presents an experience once restricted to armani and chanel. it is hugely impressive but may not be as profitable as some competitors.” tHe Mannequin iS Heralded as one of the best ways to showcase a product. From windows to the shop floor, dummies help customers
Garden party: Oasis (above) is an example of a retailer that has successfully used mannequins and props to create a narrative and a sense of fun
David Dalziel, group creative director, Dalziel + Pow
envisage what an outfit might look like when worn, or how to co-ordinate products together. When it comes to which retailers are dazzling their customers with the finest mannequins, WGSN visual merchandising editor Claire Dickinson says Zara and Harvey Nichols stand out for their use of mannequins, adding that the retailers aren’t afraid to experiment with hair, make-up and design details. “Sometimes it’s as simple as a row of 50 hair grips but they always ensure it’s executed beautifully. They both create elaborate headpieces for mannequins, often using random objects such as tennis rackets and paintbrushes, for a touch of humour or to build a narrative. Also, neither is afraid to apply permanent, irreversible treatments to mannequins. For example, Harvey Nichols recently had paint-spattered faces and Zara dipped mannequins’ feet into gold paint.”
Culture vultures: Urban Outfitters (left) adopted a theme that ties in with summer festivals, while H&M (above) emphasised its Beyoncé collaboration
MARKS & SPENCER HAS started playing around with its mannequins too, beginning to group together bigger sets of them to provide more of a wow factor and welcome customers into stores. “It gives much more of an impact,” says Becker, who adds that the retailer has rolled out this feature to 10 stores and plans to extend it to about 80 by the end of the year. To catch the eye of the wandering shopper, many retailers create tantalising visual windows through the imaginative use of props (think All Saints with its display of vintage sewing machines), playing up a designer or celebrity collaboration (recently seen at H&M with its Beyoncé partnership) or embracing current trends (both Topshop and Urban Outfitters are currently backing the festival season). Dickinson says Oasis has created “beautiful” eye-catching windows, such as an ‘overgrown meadows’ installation and more recently a kitsch picnic theme. “The windows began the story, which continued in the atrium with mannequins standing inside an oversized wicker box,” she says. “Picnic baskets were then used in the accessories area as display
fixtures. It’s not necessarily a new trend but it’s well put together, which deserves recognition.” You might think creating a strong window in stores nationwide could be an expensive affair for cash-strapped retailers. Not so, says Drapers stores editor John Ryan. “You don’t need a lot of money, you just need a good creative idea,” he says. He points to lifestyle retailer White Stuff, which in April dressed up the windows at its Spitalfields store in east London with old-style keyboards and computers, greenery, sunflowers and mannequins. “It’s a simple idea that works,” says Ryan. “It’s not all about massively dressing up mannequins.” Jaeger adopts a co-ordinating approach, meaning that what the customer sees in the window is reflected in its key displays and mannequins in store. “What is styled in windows is replicated at the front of the store, focusing the customer’s attention on hero pieces and making it easier for her to shop,” says Mclennan. THIS MIGHT SEEM LIKE an obvious move, but it’s not always followed by retailers, says Baker. “There is nothing more frustrating [for a customer] than putting a product in the window that you only have one of,” he adds. With windows viewed as the soul of the store, retailers need to ensure they’re clean, removing all those pesky dust mites that can glimmer in the light. “The rule of thumb is to every morning walk your windows,” says Sakeena Banful, visual merchandising manager at Moss Bros. “Something could have fallen down. Mannequins tend to come alive at night.” It’s equally important to ensure mannequins look immaculate, so check regularly for wear and tear. “You have to make a £2.99 product look like a million bucks, so make sure the product is appropriately presented and looks beautiful,” adds Banful. A striking window will always turn the head of a potential customer. Ryan praises Uniqlo’s approach of presenting products in bulk, with jumpers, shirts and jeans stocked on top of each other: “It’s a colourful presentation, which makes you want to shop.” Along the shop floor, there are plenty of ways to spark customers’ interest. “Floor layouts are extremely important to the ease of shopping for customers,” says Jackie Smith, head of visual merchandising at New Look. “Identifying strong sightlines in a store and utilising pause points such as mannequins, graphics, displays or strong product handling all contribute to the pace of the store, ensuring customers circulate the whole space and are excited and inspired as they walk through the floor.” Remember, the product is the hero. But with a striking backdrop, retailers can grab shoppers’ attention – and that’s no mean feat.
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‘The shoppers are in control. They choose the brands and experiences they prefer’
CAREERS I CLIMBING THE LADDER
How I got here _ Emily Potter The visual manager for wholesale at Danish brand house Bestseller seized every opportunity
_ PB Drapers // JULY JULY13 13 2013 2013 _ Drapers 92
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What does your diary look like today? A standard day for me doesn’t really exist; my job is very diverse. On a Monday, which is our trade day, I’m essentially an extension of the sales team. I wake up at 7.30am and am out by 8am. I’m not a ‘getting ready’ girl, I prefer my sleep. I’m in the office for 8.30am, where I avoid the brew round but will happily order every time someone offers. From there on in it’s all figures – reacting and feeding back on figures and co-ordinating the week’s focus via phone calls and emails. We finish at 5pm but I stay later because I’m never usually done. When it’s quieter I see the opportunity to work faster without distractions. I’m surrounded by great people and love learning from them. What meeting are you most looking forward to today? The trade meeting. I like having a meaningful, productive and resourceful end to the day, communicating with those people who know best what’s going on out there. What meeting do you wish you could postpone? Meeting
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with the planning department to discuss our key accounts. Although incredibly challenging and exciting, it requires a lot of energy and ideas, having to constantly think of new and exciting ways to push and bend the boundaries in an attempt to come out on top of our competitors. How did you get to where you are today? A combination of being fortunate enough to be offered some great opportunities and always being wide-eyed enough to see them and jump. I’ve worked in a wide range of different organisations, allowing me to learn the mechanics of many different working environments. But simply put, I worked my socks off from the ground up, starting with eight-hour shifts at [York indie] Coggles greeting and thanking customers, to get to where I am today. What has been your career highlight? Moving to Bestseller and being given the opportunity to set up this amazing department. Who is your mentor? I allow myself to learn from all angles. My team plants inspiring ideas and we grow them together into a new
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CV 2009 Visual manager, wholesale, Bestseller Group 2008 Wholesale visual merchandising co-ordinator (North), Diesel 2006 Assistant buyer/ merchandiser, Jack & Jones franchise, Sarah Coggles 2005 Visual merchandiser, Marks & Spencer 2004 Sales assistant, Sarah Coggles, York
strategy and way of working. But my real mentor is my country manager, Allan Nielsen. What’s the best advice he’s given you? “Trust people, show them respect and they will respond with loyalty and hard work.” How do you see your career progressing? I believe plans can
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be counterproductive, they put boxes around possibilities. What advice would you give to someone wanting to follow in your footsteps? Be nice to people, work hard, keep inspired and don’t stop learning. If you could work in another area of fashion, what would it be? Shop design. I enjoy thinking about the use of space and how to maximise it. I have a passion for furniture and interior design, and [social media platform] Pinterest fuels that interest on a daily basis. I now come up with window designs together with my colleagues, always gaining creative direction from Pinterest. Salaries range from £32,000 to £40,000 (estimate provided by Fashion & Retail Personnel)
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If you want to be featured on the Drapers Jobs page, email james.knowles@emap.com
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The UK’s leading specialist retail recruitment consultancy.
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Buying & Merchandising Technical, Production & Sales Design Digital & Marketing Retail Operations International successapppointments.co.uk
APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com
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DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior
Sunspel Final logotype MASTER
Senior Merchandiser Sunspel is a fast growing luxury heritage fashion brand with a focus on quality and fabric which sells worldwide in over 100 high-end fashion stores including; Harrods, Selfridges, Harvey Nichols, Lane Crawford and Mr. Porter. We are a privately owned brand manufacturing & outsourcing high quality men’s & ladies clothing, with our goods selling into wholesale, retail & on line for both UK & export markets and more importantly our own 3 stores in London.
RetailJewellerjobs.com is the No. 1 site to start your search for the perfect job in jewellery. Whether you are just starting your career or are an experienced jewellery professional, we will have the right jewellery job for you.
We are looking for a Senior Merchandiser to work closely with the Production and Design Teams; you will work to provide daily figure analysis, forecasting plans and take part in range planning. You will also be involved in the buying for own stores and implementation of the promotional activity and markdown proposals working alongside the Production and the Marketing teams. You will also be required to create the in house pricing for all stores and work on stock allocation and replenishment. You will have at least 5 years experience in merchandising and be at a Senior level. You must be able to present forecasting and weekly buying information to Directors and colleagues in a concise and efficient manner whilst highlighting any potential problems that may arise. Sunspel logotype Phase 3
Please visit www.retailjewellerjobs.com for the latest opportunities in the Jewellery and watch industries.
Nottingham based Excellent salary For more information and to apply, please visit www.sunspel.com/info/careers
To advertise in this section please CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com
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NEW ROLE AVAILABLE, COTTON ON
GLOBAL DIRECTOR WOMENSWEAR THE COTTON ON GROUP HAS TAKEN THE SPIRIT OF OUR AUTHENTIC AUSTRALIAN CHARACTER TO THE GLOBE AS ONE OF THE WORLD’S LEADING VALUE FASHION BRANDS. We are unwavering in our pursuit to provide customers with the right to engage in fashion, at the right price. This commitment to our customers has seen us rapidly expand with a portfolio of 9 brands, over 1030 stores in 13 countries and a workforce in excess of 17,000. Reporting to the Global General Manager of Cotton On, this newly created position forms part of the Cotton On Group and Cotton On brand’s Global Senior Leadership team.
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The Global Director – Womenswear will be responsible for:
– – – – – – – –
Global product direction and sourcing Merchandising and range success Trend direction Supply chain and stock management Branding, marketing and customer engagement Profitability and cost control People development and succession planning International growth
Cotton On has an exceptional trajectory for growth. Together we are a pretty optimistic bunch with a clear set of values. Our entrepreneurial spirit is what
has brought us to this point and we have big plans for the future. We have a genuine belief in our brand, our ideas and our ability to bring them to life. Working side by side within the communities in which we operate, we strive to achieve great things. If you are a passionate, product driven retail strategist who can demonstrate success of delivering a Womenswear business globally please contact Samantha Hogan on +61 424 750 828 or samh@cottonon.com.au
CONTACT INFORMATION: +61 424 750 828 SAMH@COTTONON.COM.AU COTTONON.COM.AU
the next big thing
DO YOU KNOW WHEN YOU SEE IT? Based in the heart of Manchester
- Merchandisers | £25k-£30k - Product Managers | £25k-£30k - Merchandise Managers | c£50k - Product Selector | £25k-£35k - Assistant Merchandisers | £20k - QA Supervisors | £30k-£35k - Temporary Buyer | £35k-£40k pro rata At JD Williams, we’re very proud of our big brands, continued growth, highly profitable and successful multi-channel offer – online, on the high street and in catalogues. But in the fast-moving world of fashion retail, you can never stand still, which is why we’re rapidly changing to set the pace in our market. Join us at this exciting time and you’ll enjoy the freedom to help shape the way we work and provide our 2.5 million customers with the best ranges around. Expanding our stores and growing internationally, we’re focusing more on customer segments, in season trading and mobile-centric retailing. We’ve huge plans for the future and we want you to be part of them.
To apply, please visit:
www.jdwilliamsgroup.jobs
FREEDOM
RECRUITMENT
“celebrating 15 years in fashion and retail recruitment” Embracing a truly global approach to recruitment, Freedom International works in synergy with a diverse and ever-expanding portfolio of clients across both established and emerging markets. With a tried and tested methodology, we offer bespoke solutions to support in any global recruitment strategy or business expansion.
Taking You Places...
+44 (0)207 734 9779
GARMENT TECHNOLOGIST Glenmuir is a leading supplier of branded golf and leisurewear to the International golf and retail markets. The above position is based in our Lanark Head Office and covers both our Glenmuir and Sunderland brands. Our current product range and company details can be seen on www.glenmuir.co.uk & www.glenmuir.com. Working closely with our Product Development & Buying Manager and Quality Control Team, you will play a leading role in the establishment and policing of our quality standards. You will advise on all technical issues, including fabric and colour but in particular size specifications and grading. You will establish product specification sheets and will assess incoming prototype and production samples. A technical qualification and good relevant experience in a similar role are essential. Knowledge of performance sport clothing is an advantage. If you possess the skills and commitment required to be part of a dedicated team, please write to us with your CV and details of your current renumeration package. Applications should be addressed to: The Product Development & Buying Manager, Glenmuir Limited, Delves Road, Lanark, Scotland ML11 9DX
JULY 13 2013
www.freedomrecruit.com
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info@freedomrecruit.com
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Global talent for global organisations
Our services that deliver your needs As a leading technical consultancy we provide unique services for retailers and their supply chain, delivered with integrity and professionalism by our expert consultants. • Permanent technical recruitment • Temporary garment, fabric and product technologists for short or long term consultancy • Industry Benchmarking • Bespoke training programmes and mentoring For our Clients we deliver cost effective, fast response solutions with unparalleled support services
We are actively recruiting Ethical and Sourcing Managers, Assistant Technologists and Menswear Technologists For more information about all our current job opportunities please visit our website www.q-hq.co.uk or contact Sally and Kate 0845 2268323 or email info@q-hq.co.uk
The New Look ook The fastest
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SENIOR TAILOR LONDON – Competitive Key Skills Required: Full tailoring background with an interest in BOTH men’s & women’s tailoring. Minimum experience- 8 years. Confident & articulate & able to be a strong Brand Ambassador. Computer literate. Comfortable with selling & seeking out new opportunities. Exceptional planning & organisation skills. Demonstrable delegation skills. Fashion aware. Key Responsibilities: To work alongside the Creative Director/ Master Tailor as key right hand person. To tailor clients within the brand parameters. Responsible for creating & driving the Womenswear Collection. To manage & grow existing customer base.
SALES REPRESENTATIVE, FOOTWEAR READING – Competitive If you’re seeking a career that combines your love of adventure and distaste for corporate-ease, then we notso-humbly suggest applying at Columbia Sportswear. Working here, you’ll meet others like you; bold men and women working to eradicate all that is plain and boring with the world; challenging themselves in an environment where innovation, quality and something known as “happy” is a daily occurrence; people who share a common belief that, while getting there is half the fun, the other half is discovering you belong there. For our UK team, we are looking for a Sales Representative for Footwear.
PRODUCTION MANAGER LONDON – £30,000-£45,000 pro-rata, dependant on experience Epona is a small Fairtrade clothing company established in 2002 specialising in ethically produced leisurewear garments primarily aimed at the student market and now owned by the National Union of Students Ltd. We are looking for a Production manager who will effectively oversee the entire end to end process, design through to delivery, managing all aspects of the seasons ranges. The current Production manager manages working hours around school hours and this position is ideal for someone looking for an improved work life balance.
EXPERIENCED MERCHANDISERS DAGENHAM – £Competitive These are opportunities to join a company with an international operation. You will be working in the office of a fashion supplier to some of the leading High Street Retailers. You must have at least 2 years experience in the UK within the fashion business on running your own store account. You must also have a good understanding of the leading High Street Retailers. Strong candidates must have knowledge of CMT, with a strong focus and re articulate on following the critical path.
FASHION APPRENTICES DAGENHAM – £Competitive These are opportunities to join a company with an international operation. You will be working in the office of a fashion supplier to some of the leading High Street Retailers. Fashion apprentices required to work alongside our merchandising and design team. Able to help make decisions with tasks in hand. You must have the ability to use Photoshop, Illustrator and CAD along with a strong passion for fashion and print design. Undergraduates apply.
JEWELLERY DESIGNER LONDON – COMPETITIVE Based in London, and working as part of a dedicated design team creating concepts through to final designs for the Kit Heath brand. You will have: At least 5 years commercial jewellery design experience. The ability to create innovative and commercial designs from a brief. Excellent communication skills and the ability to manage the product development process from concept to finished product. Experience of working with overseas manufacturers. Adobe Illustrator and Rhino experience an advantage.
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DIGITAL MERCHANDISER HAMPSHIRE – £30k - 35k per year + Benefits Role Objectives include: Execute the trading plan for your area, ensuring sales targets are achieved and exceeded each week. Keep your area of the site up to date with relevant, smart content. Report on the performance of your activities (revenue, stock, promotions, customer behaviour). Interpret briefs from Omni Channel Merchandiser. Support your line manager (Omni Merchandiser) in identifying and executing new business opportunities within your area. Create a best-in-class customer experience ensuring promotions are delivered to an excellent standard.
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CREATIVE PATTERN CUTTER CENTRAL LONDON – Competitive Salary New Silk Road is looking for a Creative Pattern Cutter who has experience of working within the high-end, designer market. This position will offer the right candidate the opportunity of working alongside the Creative Director, Womenswear Designers and Print Designers to create a luxury, contemporary new readyto-wear collection. Our collection is largely focused on simple shapes, constructed in soft, lightweight fabrics so experience of working with silks and soft fabrics is extremely important. The designs are largely driven by placement prints so experience of working within a print based company would be advantageous.
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DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior
APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior BUYER LIVERPOOL, MERSEYSIDE – £37,000 - £55.000 Shop Direct Group is the UK’s leading online and home shopping retailer, with fantastic brands such as Littlewoods, Very and Isme all under one roof. We have an exciting opportunity to be part of a successful business with innovation at its heart. Shop Direct Group is currently recruiting for an experienced Buyer in our Ladieswear Department. We are looking for a strong individual to lead a Buying team to deliver financial performance of the department inclusive of current and future sales, margin, service and stock targets.
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GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2641571’
ONLINE MARKETING ASSISTANT X 2 SPEKE, SOUTH LIVERPOOL – £18,000 - £22,000 + EXCELLENT BENEFITS Working within a dynamic and ambitious team, your role will be to support the implementation of campaigns and activities across all Brands in line with our brand objectives and guidelines. You will work as a co-ordinator across varying teams to ensure that accuracy of online briefs is cascaded, challenged and amended to core teams including Creative, Ecommerce and the Product and Brand Teams. We’re looking for a confident and articulate Marketing professional; you should be flexible in approach, outgoing in personality and able to work under your own initiative. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2643439’
ASSISTANT MERCHANDISER - HOMEWARE LIVERPOOL – £22,000 - £25,000 Role responsibilities include: Produce accurate weekly reports for department trading meeting, as required by the Merchandiser. Manage the held file to ensure accuracy of delivery promises and achievement of timely service and meet customer expectations. Place and maintain contracts in order to provide accurate updates to Call Centres and Warehouses. Manage the delivery and shipment deadlines, identifying and mitigating risk to ensure accurate intake of stock, according to targets. Ensure lead times and due dates are maintained and accurate. Using appropriate systems identify and forecast, by catalogue number, weekly buys and cancellations in order to maximise trading opportunities and minimise markdown.
ASSISTANT BUYER - FITNESS AND SPORT SPEKE AREA OF LIVERPOOL – £29,246.39 £32,902.45 Shop Direct Group is currently recruiting for an experienced Buyer in our Fitness and Sport Department. Ideal candidates will have extensive experience working in this sector. Responsibilities include: Manage and input into buying administration systems and procedures to ensure catalogue production and product availability time lines are adhered to. Manage and report against critical path dates. Manage the sample library, ensuring sample availability for selection meetings and for photographic shoot requirements. Develop close relationships with suppliers to ensure timely and accurate samples are produced and that product information is obtained.
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2644537’
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2641542’
JUNIOR MERCHANDISER OVAL, SOUTH LONDON – £Competitive plus benefits At White Stuff we believe by being different, and making a difference, we’ll make the world a little happier. We put ‘happyness in every stitch’ of what we do and each of our shops supports one of its local charities through the White Stuff Foundation. This is a great opportunity for someone to join the Merchandising Team as a Junior Merchandiser. Reporting to the Senior Merchandiser, you’ll have responsibility for managing the range planning process and for initiating, forecasting and maintenance of WSSI. You’ll pro-actively manage stock coming into the business, participate in space planning and monitor the stock positions and trading performance of all options.
ETHICAL SOURCING MANAGER OVAL, SOUTH LONDON – Competitive plus benefits This is an exciting and new opportunity for an Ethical Sourcing Manager to join our Technical team. You’ll report to our Head of Technical & Ethical Sourcing, and be responsible for managing White Stuff’s ethical sourcing policy and procedures. You’ll work closely with our Buying team to continue to develop and deliver our ethical sourcing strategy. We offer all the usual benefits; bonus and pension schemes, 33 days holiday, Private Medical Insurance and discount on White Stuff products…..but working for us you get so much more like having a day off each year to work in the community and attending inspiring courses dedicated to helping you develop the best version of you!
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2644370’
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2642170’
DESIGNER LEICESTER – Negotiable A leading fast fashion high street supplier has an opportunity for a talented, creative and enthusiastic designer to join a growing team. You must have a degree in fashion and possess strong experience of working in a design room. You will have a keen eye for design, be highly organised and be able to work with a diverse group of people. You must be proficient in Adobe Photoshop & Illustrator and be able to work within a fast paced and demanding environment.
MERCHANDISER (MATERNITY COVER) HARROW, NORTH WEST LONDON – Depending on experience Paragon Clothing is a leading supplier of Ladieswear / Menswear and Accessories based in North West London. We are looking for an experienced, talented and enthusiastic Merchandiser to cover a period of maternity leave starting in September and scheduled to last for approximately 12 months. You will be responsible for managing critical paths, placing purchase orders and working closely with account managers and suppliers. Strong analytical and numerical skills are required as well as excellent planning and organisational abilities. The ideal candidate is currently merchandising for a supplier who works with top High St names.
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2642769’
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2643563’
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GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2643774’
SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER LONDON – Competitive Our client is a progressive clothing manufacturer, supplying leading retailers. They have am excellent opportunity for a Senior Account Manager to join their London team. You will be responsible for the Marks and Spencer account ensuring they are managed effectively. Networking and developing new relationships with potential target accounts. Ensuring sales are maximised in line with forecasts. Keeping abreast of competitor activity and general market awareness. It is essential that you have a minimum of 3 years sales experience within the fashion industry including Marks and Spencer. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2642321’
SALES MANAGER / SENIOR SALES ASSOCIATE WORTHING / HORSHAM / GUILDFORD – Competitive Salary We are an established family-run business with branches in Sussex and Surrey specialising in fine and antique jewellery and diamonds. Successful candidates should have strong retail experience, a passion for sales and an enthusiastic can-do attitude. A knowledge of gemstones and quality jewellery is beneficial. The Sales Manager position is based at our busy Worthing head office. The Senior Sales Associate positions are based at our Horsham and Guildford branches. The ability to travel between Horsham and Guildford would be an advantage. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2641578’
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT EXECUTIVE LINCOLNSHIRE – Up to £25K Our client is the world’s largest and most popular creative floral delivery service. They have an exciting new opportunity for a dynamic Product Development Executive to join their team. You will be responsible for the creation and recommendation of the product development ranges. Working with suppliers to develop product ranges in line with margin requirements. You must have a keen eye for product as well as being highly commercial. Experience within the Floral industry is not essential but you must have experience of working within a design or product development environment. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2644473’
OPPORTUNITIES FOR GARMENT TECHNOLOGISTS MIDLANDS (EAST & WEST) – Dependent on experience We have a range of vacancies across the Midlands region looking to recruit from graduate to senior level garment technologist. Applicants must have a minimum of 6months industry experience in a similar position. If you are experienced in this field, or looking to develop your career in garment technology with a good understanding of garment fit, sealing, technical and quality management, please call us to discuss the vacancies we have on offer. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2643922’
PRODUCT MANAGER LONDON – Package dependent upon getting the right person for the job Vulpine’s products and manufacturing have until now been overseen entirely by founder Nick, who has no previous direct experience in this area. We need to become much more organised in this absolutely vital area and bring in skills/ experience. We want someone to create a role, own it and develop an amazing manufacturing/product department. This is a chance to get in at a stage where we have almost no systems or structure in place. This is not a job for the faint hearted, clock watchers or traditionalists. You love what you do, love cycling (in whatever form), enjoy creating a role and systems from scratch and you crave responsibility and stimulation. You like to build. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2643799’
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SENIOR BUYING MANAGER-ECOMMERCE LONDON – To £80000 + Benefits A great e commerce opportunity which will suit a person with in depth ecommerce buying experience. You will be responsible for the range planning and product assortment and for driving sales targets and margins. Ensuring good on line visual merchandising of product and site optimisation. Maintaining the inventory. Managing a small team. You will need to have operated in a senior buying management position for men’s clothing or accessories and have gained European experience.
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2641828’
JULY 13 2013
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2644611’
SALES MANAGER LONDON – Salary £40K + Excellent Commission Exciting job opportunity with an established overseas company seeks a London Sales Manager with a sound knowledge of selling display mannequins and retail solutions to UK multiples and department stores. Previous experience of selling visual merchandising props, achieving results, together with sound knowledge in opening accounts with high street retailers is essential. This position will be based from home and must be local to London and would suit a Self motivated and driven individual. Great company with an excellent bonus structure!
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SENIOR BLOUSE/SOFTS DESIGNER LONDON – Competitive Leading manufacturer of Ladies fashion tailoring with our own factories in Vietnam and head office in London. Producing ladies fashion tailoring for both the U.K high street retailers and overseas. Due to further growth, an exciting opportunity has arisen within our company for an experienced Blouse/Softs Designer. We are looking for a highly motivated, creative individual with a minimum of five years experience. You should be methodical with great attention to detail, in addition to a working knowledge of current fashion trends. Applicants must be motivated, hard working, organised and a team player.
SERVICES DIRECTORY TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dani Choyen 0203 033 2987 danielle.choyen@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR
In Store Products and Services EPOS
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“We believe that we help retailers serve customers to world class standards”
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t: 0844 544 1108 e: sales@trcepos.co.uk www.trcepos.co.uk E-COMMERCE
etailPR
AMAZON | STOCK CONTROL | BESPOKE WORK | METAPACK | PROVEN RESULTS | AFFILIATES | RETARGETING | TWITTER | BLOGGER NETWORK | EMAIL MARKETING | EXPERIENCE | VIDEO INTEGRATION | RELIABILITY | FREESTYLE MERCHANDISING | INDUSTRY INSIGHT | MULTI CHANNELS | INTERNATIONAL | FACEBOOK | EARLY ADOPTION | LONG PARTNERSHIPS | BIG BRANDS | PAYMENT GATEWAYS | CAMPUS ADVERTISING | MEDIA BUYING | BEHAVIOURAL DISPLAY MARKETING | DIGITAL PR | ADVANCED ANALYTICS | COLLABORATIONS | TRANSLATION | AMAZON | STOCK CONTROL | BESPOKE WORK | METAPACK | PROVEN RESULTS | AFFILIATES | RETARGETING | TWITTER | BLOGGER NETWORK | EMAIL MARKETING | EXPERIENCE | VIDEO INTEGRATION | RELIABILITY | FREESTYLE MERCHANDISING | INDUSTRY INSIGHT | MULTI CHANNEL | INTERNATIONAL | FACEBOOK | EARLY ADOPTION | LONG PARTNERSHIPS | BIG BRANDS | PAYMENT GATEWAYS | CAMPUS ADVERTISING | MEDIA BUYING | BEHAVIOURAL DISPLAY MARKETING | DIGITAL PR | ADVANCED ANALYTICS | COLLABORATIONS | TRANSLATION | AMAZON | STOCK CONTROL | BESPOKE WORK | METAPACK | PROVEN RESULTS | AFFILIATES | RETARGETING | TWITTER | BLOGGER NETWORK | EMAIL MARKETING | EXPERIENCE | VIDEO INTEGRATION | RELIABILITY | FREESTYLE MERCHANDISING | INDUSTRY INSIGHT | MULTI CHANNELS | INTERNATIONAL | FACEBOOK | EARLY ADOPTION | LONG PARTNERSHIPS | BIG
PROVEN FASHION E-COMMERCE EXPERTS
Call 0845 130 3535 or visit: www.toptotoe.com GARMENT STANDS KENNETT & LINDSELL LTD EST 1913 Consultants and specialists in the design and manufacture of garment stands for all aspects of clothing production. Design, fitting, standardisation and quality control
Tel: 01708 749732 Fax: 01708 733328 www.kennettlindsell.com sales@kennettlindsell.com Drapers Ads 2012A_Layout 1 30/01/2012
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Manufacturing GARMENT CMT
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Based in Corum, Turkey. 230 piece machine factory, working in cotton, stitching, ironed and packet goods. Manufacturer of: Work Clothing - Men’s Trousers - Women’s Skirts - Police/Army Uniforms - Tactical Wear www.ortaanadolutekstil.com.tr www.yiltextactical.com 00905072659184
GARMENT LABELS
Halcyon Blue
Manufacturing a division of Halcyon Blue Ltd
Specialist manufacturers of high quality swimwear and underwear • Cut, make and trim • Sampling work • Small runs welcome
Top quality woven and printed labels + swing tickets Express service for washcare labels (Small orders our speciality with quick delivery) Phone TODAY for our FREE catalogue and information pack Tel: 01484 888844 Fax: 01484 888800 Email abaines@eastman.co.uk Also contact us for:cutting room papers, poly bags, shoulder pads etc www.eastman.co.uk
www.theclothesfactory.co.uk 0870 977 0380 or 07795 412190
OVER 25YEARS EXPERIENCE, SPECIALISE IN LADIES COATS/JACKETS, WELL EQUIPPED FACTORY, CAPABLE OF 1500PER WEEK, ARCADIA GROUP APPROVAL, PLEASE CONTACT 0207511 0033 capricorn97@btconnect.com
PRIVATE LABEL SHIRTS
PRIVATE LABEL & MTM SHIRTS Are you a high-end menswear retailer looking to provide a more tailor-made service? We are the UK’s leading supplier of quality private label, RTW & MTM men’s shirts. We offer low minimums, short-lead times and quality fabric collections.
Contact: Woven Labels • Printed Tickets Carrier Bags • Self-Adhesive Labels Ribbon • Gift Boxes • Packaging Tissue Paper • Logo & Label Design
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T: 01268 889000 E: sales@russel.co.uk Hanger specialist: zoer@russel.co.uk www.russel.co.uk
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grahamdelve@esquirescollections.com
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e-mail: sales@adastralabels.com www.adastralabels.com
High quality British manufacturer has spare capacity, experienced in patterns and development for top designers. Jersey garments our speciality. Well equipped factory. Tel 07779 961217
We have full capabilities of pattern making and grading design cut make and trim in house facilities for embroidery and printing. Please call for details on 07887 643 377.
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JULY 13 2013
CLOTHING SOFTWARE
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T: 01245 253 420 E: sales@cdcuk.com www.cdcuk.com
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SWEATSHIRTS
SERVICES DIRECTORY TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dani Choyen 020 7728 4603 danielle.choyen@emap.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR
Fabric & Accessories FASHION FABRICS
TEXTILE WHOLESALE
Suppliers of one of the best top quality European linings, with over 90 colours in stock and a further 140 colours available upon request. We also stock poly-wool suitings, dress and fashion fabrics. Ahmad Linings UK est. 1976 Tel: 01274 727069 Fax: 01274 390 407 Email: linings@ahmadtextiles.co.uk NB: We also buy all types of redundant/obsolete fabrics and trimmings with an immediate decision and pay cash or bankers draft prior to collection from small to large quantities. Can collect anywhere in the UK or abroad
Importers and wholesalers of Luxury Faux Fur to UK Manufacturing www.ambassador-textiles.co.uk info@ambassador-textiles.co.uk
Huma Fabrics
Suppliers of fashion/textile fabrics 37A Skeltons Lane Fabric House Leyton E10 5BT
GB Wholesale Ltd
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Fabric importers established in 1958
Carrying a large and varied range of fabrics. Bi-stretch bengaline, suitings, stripes, checks and much more
Contact Paul 0208 447 5905 or 07939111193 email gbwpaul@live.co.uk www.gbwholesale.co.uk
www.drapersonline.com
Contact: 07903368616
www.theliningcompany.co.uk
Importers, Exporters & Wholesalers of Textile Fabrics For Ladies Fashion Industry. Unit 5, Hayes Metro Centre, Springfield Road, Hayes, Middlesex UB4 0LE
shop@theliningcompany.co.uk 0844 800 3630 JEANS BUTTONS
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Sales Agents required, Apply Now. The widest choice of press studs, jeans buttons, jeans rivets, eyelets, popper tape and trouser hooks.
TRIMMINGS 41169 Barnett Lawson Order form.qxd:••
21/4/08
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A fantastic range of over 12,000 items: Braids, buttons, cords, fringes,ORDER fringe curtains, feathers, flowers, insertions, elastics, lace, ribbons, personalised printed ribbons, ric-rac, rigilene, diamanté, pearl & sequin trims, tie-backs, tubular crin, Velcro, bridal trims, millinery supplies and much, much more. If we don’t have it, we can source it! Visit our transformed website! 16/17 Little Portland Street London W1W 8NE T: +44 (0) 20 7636 8591 F: +44 (0) 20 7580 0669 E: info@bltrimmings.com W: www.bltrimmings.com
To MESSRS
EMPEE SILK FABRICS LTD, we carry one of the largest selections of fabric in the UK. We carry a huge range of plain and printed Satin, Lace, Organza, Velvet, Foil, Cotton, P/C, Fun fur and many more. All under one roof; 31 Commercial Road, Edmonton, London N18 1TP. Tel: 020 8887 6000 Fax: 020 8887 6045. Email: empee@wholesalefabrics.co.uk Web: www.wholesalefabrics.co.uk Redundant stocks bought for cash.
LININGS
ORDER No.
A/C No.
ORDER No. DATE
ARTICLE No.
DESCRIPTION
UNIT PRICE
16-17 Little Portland Street, London W1W 8NE T: 020 7636 8591; F: 020 7580 0669 E: info@bltrimmings.com; W: www.bltrimmings.com
Notice board AUTHORISED
THE GRADING BUREAU
Registered Office: Sentinel House Sentinel Square Brent Street London NW4 2EP Reg No. 2211489 VAT No. GB 494731613 Directors CI Marx GI Marx
WANTED
Established 1973 Established 1973
OVERSTOCKS WE BUY Tel: 020 8208 0404 EVERYTHING Fax: 020 8364 8859 AND ANYTHING
stock@lssservices.co.uk DELABELLING FACILITY NATIONAL COVERAGE IMMEDIATE Lollipops Boutique 1 REACTION – DECISION – Always Wanted PAYMENT * Customer Returns * LSS Services * QC Faults Unit 6 * Samples * Atlas*Business Centre * End of Lines * Oxgate Lane All cash payments and London NW2 7HJ garments de-labelled Tel: 020 8208 0404 if required Fax: 020 8208 4414 Contact Laura stock@lssservices.co.uk 07950310304 or
lollipopsboutique1@gmx.co.uk
ALL FABRICS BOUGHT from remnants to total bulk clearance, immediate decision and payment. Contact Mark - 020 8993 1068 or 07836 744376
Computer Grading For all your grading and costing needs.
- Redundant - Overstock - Samples - Returns - Cancelled Orders Up to 10,000 units required per week. Minimum quantity 100 units. Prices paid up to £2 per piece. Contact Joe 07815 355 355 Email: personnel@verso.uk.com
www.salvageliquidator.com
WE BUY...WE SELL... • Surplus stock • Late deliveries • Cancelled orders • Clearance lines
caLL noW for immEdiatE action
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eaRn ££££’S today Mixed bundles, current or past season collections. No minimum / maximum. Stockroom clearance is our speciality. Professional, discreet and friendly service with immediate payment & collection to suit you.
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DATAGR AF LTD
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With showroom and with many years’ experience in the clothing industry. Is looking for leisurewear/countrywear agency to the retail for Yorkshire and North East area. Contact 07770838064
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GRADING
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DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR
Zuppe Clothing Ladieswear Showroom Extensive range of young ladieswear in stock for immediate delivery. Labels stocked: Zuppe,
Frock Me Couture, Tilly Tizzaro
and Preppi. Contact Details: 49 Knowsley Street, Manchester, M8 8JF Sales Team – 0161 833 4010 Fax – 0160 833 4090 Email – zuppe@btconnect.com Website – www.zuppeclothing.com/collection
PEOPLE I THIS FASHION LIFE
‘We have to be careful not to lose sight of what’s made LCM great in the first place’ ➝ Topman champions emerging
menswear designers through its MAN initiative – what do you look for? We look for aspiring young designers who have a good balance of business acumen alongside the creative drive to succeed. Designers who are here for the duration. What was your favourite collection this season at LCM? It was good to witness the growing maturity of the young designers like Christopher Shannon and James Long, with other strong collections coming from a lot of the street/sportswear designers like Shaun Samson, Astrid Andersen, Katie Eary and Nasir Mazhar. John Lewis and Marks & Spencer, as well as Topman Design, were at LCM this season. What are your thoughts on high street chains’ presence at the shows? Topman Design is a separately designed collection that is wholesaled worldwide, so it earns its slot. I think we have to be careful going forward not to expand at too great a pace and lose sight of what’s made LCM great in the first place, which is an exciting mix of the best of British menswear. How does the menswear market differ from the women’s? Ten years ago I would have said they’re very different. Now there’s very little difference between young men’s and women’s shopping habits. Male shoppers are becoming more informed of trends and brands by way of the internet and their demands are every bit as informed now as women’s. Panache Display is a specialist designer, suppliers and manufacturer mannequins andtrends you Are of there any menswear display accessories. wish would disappear? It will be interesting to watch the sport/street look that’s been We offer a bespoke production and renovation service, and are the UK agent for Bonami pervading younger designers’ collections Mannequins, New John Nissen and Siegel & Stockman. recently start to reach some sort of critical How doescollections it feel to have the or follow our You can view our Men’s at ourseen showroom Menswear photo albums on to see a mass. That’s the moment we will start progress Facebook and Pinterest.of London Collections: Men shift in the whole skinny trouser silhouette. (LCM)? I’m proud and excited by how well And are there any you would like to see re-emerge? I’d like to see a wider trouser the whole event has been received and how, comingW3 back. The most recent Prada show is a Panache Display, 159 Dukes Road, Park Royal, Acton, London, OSL thanks to the British Fashion Council and good example of how it can look modern. Contact us at: sales@panachedisplay.co.uk LCM chair Dylan Jones’ focus, the event now What is your vision for Topman in the future? To stay at the forefront of what’s has worldwide stature. It sprung from very fashionable in all areas of the business. We owe humble yet ambitious beginnings, with it to our customers to have the very best fashion Topman’s support of MAN through Fashion East at the most affordable prices.
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Gordon Richardson
Topman’s creative director talks to EMILY NORVAL about the retailer’s fruitful relationship with London Collections: Men
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and Lulu Kennedy, without whom the event we have now wouldn’t exist.
For an extended version of this interview, visit www.drapersonline.com/news/ this-fashion-life
SEE THE NEW SS14 COLLECTION AT:
MODA:
11th - 13th August
INDX:
30th July - 1st August
For more information please call
0113 240 2211 or email
info@skopes.com