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Indies hit where it hurts by multiples’ targeted discounts Glut of flash Sales and voucher codes on high street leaves indies considering early price cuts By Drapers reporters

Independent retailers are feeling the pressure this christmas as multiples’ targeted discounting and voucher codes have forced them to compete with “aggressive” price cuts. marina mcKeever, senior director of sales at Vouchercodes.co.uk, said there had been a “significant increase” in the number of discount codes released by retailers in the run-up to christmas this year. During November fashion retailers issued 29% more codes compared with the same period last year, while the number of in-store offers jumped 43% year on year to tempt shoppers onto the high street. As Drapers went to press, New Look was offering £20 off leather jackets, Gap 40% off selected kidswear, Office 30% off selected women’s shoes and Debenhams 15% off lingerie, beauty, fragrance and accessories, among others. Ann Jordan, manager of premium womenswear store Please Don’t Tell in belfast, said she was forced to go into Sale early this season because of the pressure to compete against high street promotions.

Cutting it: just some of the retailers on Oxford Street with promotions this week

She said: “[Discounting] is getting earlier every year. With constant discounting on the high street it’s impossible to sell full price. With the likes of House of Fraser having 40% off and my-Wardrobe.com offering 20%-off vouchers all season, it’s a race to the bottom.” melissa Wheeler, manager of womenswear indie Ambiance in colchester, agreed that high street discounting had become “more aggressive and premature”.

british Independent retail Association deputy chief executive michael Weedon said independents were “taking hits” from flash Sales rather than blanket Sales this year. He said: “There are far fewer signs in the windows than we’ve been used to and they’re smaller Sales too; 40% is the new 70%. Independents are more nervous about Sales online.” Yvette Davies, owner of contemporary womenswear store

Thirty Three boutique in Lymington, Hampshire, said the constant price cuts were teaching shoppers to “hold out for a bargain”. She said: “Once the department stores and multiples like Phase eight and monsoon go into Sale we have to go. If you have stock to shift there’s only a finite period to do so.” Hilary cookson, owner of occasionwear boutique maureen cookson in clitheroe, Lancashire, said suppliers were also guilty of undercutting independents. She said: “They recommend prices for us but then they go on Sale on regent Street at a discount. most indies are considering going on Sale early.” However, some multiples are holding their nerve in the run-up to christmas. Anthony Thompson, chief executive of Fat Face, said it will be the fourth christmas where the chain has maintained a full-price strategy until boxing Day. He said: “It’s about price integrity, it’s about our customers being able to trust our product and not feeling undermined when a product gets discounted a week or so after they’ve bought it.”

Warehouse to bring new-look store to Oxford St By Victoria Gallagher

Womenswear retailer Warehouse will open its first store on London’s Oxford Street next spring. The chain has exchanged on a deal for the 2,500 sq ft unit at 264 Oxford Street, a former monsoon site. The flagship store is scheduled to open at the end of February. The storefit will mirror the new concept that Warehouse debuted in Trinity Leeds earlier this year. It will have an industrial feel with features such as exposed brickwork and poured concrete and will stock a selection of exclusive product.

Industrial design: the new store will take after the flagship in Trinity Leeds

As with Leeds the fitting rooms will be a key feature, with seating areas, iPads, refreshments and a tillpoint. brand director Paula Stewart said the larger fitting rooms, which Warehouse has dubbed “lounges”, have helped act as additional selling space. “Average transaction value is higher in our refitted stores,” she said. “They are delivering up to 25% of transactions in the lounge areas every week.” The Oxford Street store will also serve as a retail showcase for Warehouse’s international partners. Warehouse and Oasis chief executive

Liz evans said Warehouse has a strong business across the middle east, Far east and South America, with room for further growth. evans added: “Our shareholders are absolutely committed to international and digital growth but we are really committed to investing in our home UK market and putting our brand showcase stores out.” Warehouse has opened three flagship stores in the last year, in bristol, Leeds and belfast. Warehouse closed its store in the Plaza shopping centre on Oxford Street three years ago. December 7 2013 /

Drapers

NEWS News

Creditors approve spencer Hart CVA Premium menswear retailer Spencer Hart’s company Voluntary Arrangement (cVA) has been approved by creditors in an attempt to safeguard its future, Drapers understands. The cVA was completed by insolvency firm David rubin & Partners on November 5, according to accounts filed at companies House. In the report, Spencer Hart’s directors said they were trying “to raise additional funding to support the company so it can meet its obligations”. All creditors voted in favour of the resolution. Drapers understands that Steve Pomfret, former Uniqlo UK chief executive, has been brought in to oversee the arrangement, although it is not clear in what capacity. Spencer Hart, which incurred a pre-tax loss of £746,570 in the year to December 31, 2012, has two standalone stores in London and a concession in Selfridges. The company declined to comment.

Chancellor to cap business rate rise business rate rises are expected to be capped at 2% next year, offering welcome relief to retailers who have been campaigning on the issue. As Drapers went to press, chancellor George Osborne was poised to reveal the news in his Autumn Statement, announced on December 5. In england and Wales a 2% cap would be lower than the previously scheduled 3.2% increase, linked to the September retail prices index (rPI) measure of inflation. If the rate did rise by 3.2%, retailers would have to stump up an additional £242m next year. Pressure had been growing on the Government to provide some sort of rates relief, with trade associations and political rivals piling into the debate. Osborne was also expected to extend a scheme that offers rate relief to small businesses, but will not carry out an entire review of the business rates system. For Autumn Statement coverage, visit www.drapersonline.com/news 2

Drapers / December 7 2013

DEBEnhams unvEils makEovEr at flagship

Debenhams unveiled its new-look Oxford Street store this week after a year-long refurbishment. The store includes an extra 25,000 sq ft of selling space following the relocation of the company’s head office, and features a click-and-collect counter as well as the retailer’s largest footwear department.

A-Wear to reopen up to six stores as receiver’s rescue plan gathers pace By suzanne Bearne

Irish womenswear chain A-Wear plans to reopen up to six of its stores next week. The beleaguered business, which fell into receivership last month, will reopen five to six stores, adding to shops in blanchardstown, Dundrum, Grafton Street in Dublin and Sligo that have remained trading throughout. A-Wear has 31 stores in the republic of Ireland and nine concessions in House of Fraser stores in the UK. No decision has been made on which locations will reopen, although they are expected to do so within the next week. A-Wear’s website remains offline, with a notice reading: “Due to unforeseen circumstances this site is currently offline.” It is not known whether the site will begin trading again. receiver Ken Fennell of Kavanaghfennell said A-Wear would honour gift cards and vouchers issued after October 8, when the retailer entered examinership, until December 24. A-Wear, which also sells its own label via websites such as Asos and Zalando, was put into examinership after suffering a decrease in footfall.

Winter wear: retailer will hope to cash in on Christmas in its remaining stores

It said its survival would depend on negotiating low rents with landlords. Fennell, who was appointed as receiver last month, said it was “inevitable” that some of A-Wear’s 31 stores would close. The business employs 358 staff across its stores and Dublin head office. It also stocks third-party womenswear brands including Jasmine and closet in its stores and on its website. After falling into examinership, it was reported that as part of its

rescue plan A-Wear would close its UK concessions. In October it was revealed by the retailer that it wanted to transform itself into a wholesaleoriented business supplying multiple retailers with stock from lower-cost locations such as India, china and Turkey rather than the UK, where A-Wear currently sources most of its product. A-Wear’s wholesale arm is thought to make up around 10% of revenues at present.

Selfridges and Harvey Nicks grab exclusives By Suzanne Bearne

Harvey Nichols and Selfridges have revealed a number of spring 14 brand exclusives as the department stores continue to differentiate themselves in a bid to drive footfall and sales. Harvey Nichols has introduced a host of brands for next season across womenswear, menswear and footwear. In womenswear it will launch US denim brand 6397 and knitwear label Michaela Buerger exclusively in its Knightsbridge store. In footwear exclusives, Harvey Nichols, which launched a new footwear floor at its London flagship in the summer, is introducing a collaboration between London Fashion Week designer Mary Katrantzou and Italian women’s footwear label Gianvito Rossi, plus ranges from Italian label MSGM, Isa Tapia and Thakoon Addition, and will also become the only non-London UK stockist for Manolo Blahnik at its Edinburgh store. Jasmin Sanya, women’s footwear buyer at Harvey Nichols, said Thakoon’s footwear range adds “instant cool to every outfit”. Sanya added that Katrantzou’s capsule collection “features vibrant, printed booties and stylish single-sole pumps created in collaboration with Gianvito Rossi”. Harvey Nichols has also brought

M&S agrees Longbridge store Marks & Spencer has signed a deal with property firm St Modwen to open one of its largest stores in the UK in Longbridge, Birmingham. The 150,000 sq ft flagship store will anchor the second phase of the regeneration of Longbridge town centre. Subject to planning permission, the store will open for trading by Christmas 2015 and create up to 350 jobs. Record web sales at John Lewis Black Friday on November 29 helped John Lewis to its most successful week of online sales, which rose 35.7% year on year. The retailer said overall sales soared 18.4% to £147m during the week to November 30, up 31.4% week on week, while fashion sales surged 16.6%.

Fresh for spring: labels Thomas Wylde, main image, and Michaela Buerger, inset

in menswear from British label B-side by Walé, US sports brand Mitchell & Ness and raincoat specialist Norwegian Rain for spring 14. Selfridges is also focusing on bringing freshness to its clothing offer with a range of exclusive brands. Los Angeles-based Thomas Wylde, New York leather accessories label Zana Bayne and French designer Christophe Lemaire will all join the womenswear line-up for spring 14. Nicola Ko, senior luxury analyst at luxury consultancy Ledbury

Research, said it was imperative for department stores to continually introduce new brands. “Many department stores don’t offer their own brands and essentially if they don’t have anything exclusive, if they don’t get fresh stock, you’re pretty much the same as everyone else,” she said. “Differentiating your stock is the key to making sales.” Department stores including John Lewis and House of Fraser have invested heavily in their own brands in recent years in a bid to preserve margins.

Marchant leads Drapers Top 100

Winner: Primark boss and his team also triumphed at this year’s Drapers Awards

News in brief

Drapers has revealed its Top 100 list of fashion’s most influential people in 2013, with Primark chief executive Paul Marchant securing the number one spot for the first time. Marchant, who ranked second last year, overtook Asos chief executive Nick Robertson. The promotion comes on the back of a stellar year for Primark, with a strong dedication to the UK high street and international expansion fuelling a rise of 44% in the value retailer’s profits, to £514m. Next chief executive Lord

Wolfson is the third most influential name in the industry. The top 10 features five new names, highlighting that the industry has undergone a year of change. John Lewis managing director Andy Street, Burberry’s Christopher Bailey, Inditex chief executive Pablo Isla, JD Sports Fashion’s Barry Bown and Amazon vice president of fashion for Europe Sergio Bucher are all in the top 10. Turn to page 19 to see the entire rundown of this year’s Top 100

Margin scraps 2014 editions Streetwear trade show Margin will not run next year after its founder decided to focus on other projects. The London show, which was founded in 2002, will not be open to any applications for 2014. Show organiser Odysseas Constantine said: “More freelance and personal projects have taken over my time and energy.” It is unclear whether the show will continue from 2015. Piquadro bags Regent St store Italian leather bags and accessories retailer Piquadro is gearing up to open its first UK store after signing for a unit on Regent Street in London. Piquadro will open the store in February next year, after which it will examine further retail options in London and eventually the rest of the UK. At present the retailer trades from around 100 stores in Europe and Asia. New design school in Luton The University of Bedfordshire is to open a new school of art and design in Luton following a £2.25m refurbishment scheme. The six-floor building on Guildford Street, once owned by fashion business Alexon, will be home to the university’s fashion design, advertising design and art and design MA courses.

DECEMBER 7 2013 /

Drapers

NEWS

Temperley drops prices to grow customer base By Victoria Gallagher

At home: four UK stores in the pipeline

French Sole steps up store openings Women’s footwear brand French Sole is looking to double its retail portfolio in the UK and extend its footprint in Asia. The brand, which specialises in ballet flats and has four London standalone stores, in Mayfair, Marylebone, King’s Road and Knightsbridge, plans to open a further two shops in the capital and two in northern England. Founder Jane Winkworth said: “We have been considering UK expansion for some time and want to roll out more stores based on the financial model taken from our very successful Marylebone store. “We are looking seriously at the Trafford Centre in Manchester, the Victoria Quarter in Leeds, Canary Wharf, Covent Garden and Oxford. We are about to sign contracts on one [store], with a second following very close behind.” French Sole will also continue its international retail roll-out in 2014 with further expansion in Asia, including standalone stores in Beijing and Shanghai. The move follows the opening of its first Chinese concession in Galeries Lafayette in Beijing and the launch of its Chinese website in October.

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Drapers / DECEMBER 7 2013

Temperley London has lowered its pricing from its autumn 14 pre-collection to appeal to a wider customer base. The luxury womenswear brand’s entry price point for dresses is now £495 compared with £650 for the autumn 13 pre-collection. All dresses are now under £2,000, whereas previously the highest was £2,850. Founder and designer Alice Temperley told Drapers: “We have stretched out our entry price point as we are trying to appeal to all and give lots of different options.” Temperley said the latest range has a strong focus on local production. “We’ve brought things back to Europe and are now doing a lot of manufacturing in England,” she said. For sister label Alice by Temperley, prices will drop slightly, by £20 for an entry-price dress. Pieces will range from £275 to £650. Madeleine Macey, Temperley London communications director, said: “We are trying not to be positioned just as an occasionwear brand but as a daywear label with

Bringing sexy back: Temperley London autumn 14 pre-collection has attitude

occasionwear. The Temperley London line has grown up a little bit, it’s got a bit more attitude and become a little sexier, while the Alice line has lost a bit of its girliness.” In September, the British label unveiled former Céline vice president Ulrik Garde Due as its new chief executive. He has been tasked with turning the business into a global lifestyle label.

Retailers downplay factory fire impact Marks & Spencer, Gap and Uniqlo were among the retailers supplied by a Bangladesh factory that was destroyed by a fire last week. Fashion firms in the UK, US and Asia were hit by the blaze, which was allegedly started by employees and burnt out one of Bangladesh’s largest garment factories. However, companies affected by the fire have sought to downplay the extent of disruption caused, with one retailer emphasising that all stock manufactured at the factory for the crucial Christmas period had already been delivered. An M&S spokesperson said: “We have contingency plans in place and do not expect any significant effect on our supply.” Eyewitnesses reported seeing clothing from a number of big-name retailers including American Eagle Outfitters, Gap and Walmart strewn at the scene of the fire, which tore through the 10-storey building in Gazipur, 25 miles north of Dhaka. The factory, owned by Standard Group of Companies, is one of the largest in Bangladesh and the country’s largest supplier to Gap, employing some 18,000 people. No casualties have been reported.

CLOGGS RETURNS TO THE HIGH STREET

Footwear etailer Cloggs is opening its first store since its acquisition by JD Sports Fashion. The 1,000 sq ft store opens on December 7 at Pride Hill in Shrewsbury. The etailer previously had a store in Birmingham Bullring, which closed after JD took control in February. See next week’s issue for an interview with Cloggs managing director Chris Thomas.

Brand exodus triggers Bread & Butter rethink By Suzanne Bearne

Trade show Bread & Butter Berlin (BBB) will unveil a new concept for its July 2014 edition, in the wake of brands including G-Star, Superdry and Boxfresh pulling out of January’s edition. In an open letter to the trade, BBB founder Karl-Heinz Müller said: “The time has come for us to change something. [It] is not only in our own interest, but also in the interest of the whole industry. Bread & Butter will newly position itself from July 2014 on. We will open a new chapter.” Details of the new concept will be unveiled during a preview at Soho House in Berlin on December 16. This comes after a selection of high-profile brands decided not to show their autumn 14 collections at the next event, on January 14-16 at Tempelhof Airport. G-Star and Boxfresh will not attend, nor will Superdry, which will instead showcase its men’s and women’s wear on the catwalk at London Collections: Men in January. A G-Star spokeswoman said:

Gone stale? Brands including Diesel have left Bread & Butter in recent seasons

Jaeger adds management duo Jaeger has bolstered its senior management team with two appointments. Richard Kozlowski, who joined as interim chief financial officer in June, has been confirmed as permanent in the position with immediate effect. Evan Druker, formerly of Belstaff and Burberry, will join as director of accessories and global sourcing this month. M&S staff to strike in Ireland Marks & Spencer staff in the Republic of Ireland are to strike over “unacceptable” plans to end the company’s final salary pension scheme. As Drapers went to press, the strike action was planned for December 7 and two more days before Christmas across 17 stores in Ireland.

“After a careful reconsideration of its global strategy, G-Star has decided not to attend Bread & Butter this season. New opportunities and challenges have made G-Star decide to refocus its energy and resources on new areas including global retail, ecommerce and emerging markets.” Young fashion brand UCLA Clothing said an exodus of “good brands” had influenced its decision not to show. PR and marketing

manager Jo Evendon said: “We love Bread & Butter but we are taking a step back for one show. It’s getting quieter, we’ve seen a lot of good brands drop out.” The owner of one streetwear brand added: “Bread & Butter has lost a lot of brands and when you lose brands, you lose faith in the show – it’s lost credibility.” For more on Bread & Butter, see Editor’s Comment on page 11

Benetton restructures to boost sales By Ben Cooper

Benetton Group has kick-started a major restructure as it aims to increase profitability. The Italian retail business plans to bring about a “marked separation” in the way it operates its two biggest clothing businesses, United Colors of Benetton and Sisley, and reassess its international store portfolio with a view to potentially pulling out of underperforming markets. Under the direction of parent company Edizione, the three-year programme will see the business divided into three distinct divisions to manage its brand, manufacturing and real estate activities. Benetton aims to increase profits and boost overall sales performance with more efficient management

News in brief

Disunited: Benetton is separating its brand, manufacturing and real estate

of underperforming stores and investment and expansion into key locations, including Asian markets (such as China), which a spokesman said are a “big focus”. The spokesman added: “The business will continue to revolve

around our two main brands. We will prioritise the business around the potential of the brands and identify priority markets, markets which we will put less of an emphasis on or markets where we decide to discontinue our presence. “We will also be looking at new retail concepts across our brands. It will be a slow process.” One driver of the programme will be to improve the performance of the company’s manufacturing operations, which are based in Italy, Serbia and Tunisia. With 6,500 stores in 120 countries, as well as its two key retail chains Benetton Group owns underwear concept Undercolors of Benetton and multi-brand fashion store Playlife, which at present only trades in continental Europe.

Cath Kidston opens flagship Fashion and homeware retailer Cath Kidston opened its largest store in the world this week. The 7,070 sq ft shop at 180 Piccadilly houses more than 20,000 products. To celebrate the launch, which also coincides with the brand’s 20th anniversary, eight London taxis decorated in Cath Kidston prints are offering free journeys to the store during the opening week. Dynamic fashion firms listed Mulberry, Whistles, Boohoo.com and Jack Wills are among 15 fashion companies to feature in a report listing 1,000 of the fastestgrowing and dynamic small and medium-sized businesses in the UK. The London Stock Exchange revealed the list of companies as part of its research report, 1,000 Companies to Inspire Britain. Hunter Boot and Cath Kidston also feature. Glitches hit Cyber Monday Thousands of shoppers were unable to pay for purchases on one of the busiest shopping days of the year after technical glitches hit NatWest, RBS and Ulster Bank services on Monday. Online sales were expected to reach up to £605m on what has been dubbed Cyber Monday, but customers of the three banks were unable to shop online or at stores, or to withdraw money from cash machines. DECEMBER 7 2013 /

Drapers

News

Indies embrace By Suzanne Bearne & Victoria Gallagher

Walking together: event will run alongside the main GDS event

GDS goes private with Tag it! By Jill Geoghegan

Footwear and accessories show GDS is launching a private label footwear and accessories fair for the spring 15 buying season that will run parallel to the main exhibition. Tag it! by GDS will take place at Messe Düsseldorf from July 29 to August 1, 2014 alongside the core GDS show, which begins a day later on July 30. GDS said the new show, which is aimed at international manufacturers and retailers, is the “first of its kind” in footwear and will provide information and an order platform for private labels in footwear and accessories. Tag it! replaces the Global Shoes exhibition at GDS, which launched in 2007 to cater for the Asian market. The organisers said Tag it! was created in response to the rising demand for private labels in Europe, North Africa and

South America. According to Nielsen data for the Private Label Manufacturers Association (PLMA), the share of private label products in the European retail trade will rise 10% to more than 50% by 2015. PLMA defines private label as “all merchandise sold under a retailer’s brand”. Kirstin Deutelmoser, director of GDS and Tag it!, said the market needs trade shows with a “clear focus”. She said: “With Tag it! by GDS we want to reflect the needs of the market. “Several leading European private label manufacturers have already expressed themselves very positively about our new format.” The news follows GDS’s announcement that it will move its usual September and March slots to July and February, starting from the July 2014 show.

Fashion independents including Dartagnan, Paper Doll and The Dressing Room are gearing up to support the UK’s inaugural Small Business Saturday event this weekend in a bid to drive sales and footfall during the Christmas period. The concept, which originated in the US three years ago to help fuel sales for small businesses, has been brought to the UK by shadow business secretary Chuka Umunna. Thousands of businesses, including fashion independents, are supporting the event, which starts today (December 7) and is backed by American Express (AmEx). AmEx customers will receive £5 credit when they spend more than £10 at participating small businesses. Matt Horstead, owner of menswear indie Dartagnan in Chichester, West Sussex, welcomed a “corporate name” like American Express to publicise the event. “It carries some weight,” he said. Small Business Saturday is also supported by the Federation of Small Businesses, the British Chambers of Commerce and the Association of Convenience Stores. High-profile backers include James Caan of Dragon’s Den, Karren Brady from The Apprentice and retail guru Mary Portas. Horstead added: “These kind of events keep banging the drum for

Corporate backing: Dartagnan welcomed American Express’s support of the event

us independents. We always see a massive spike in AmEx transactions in December, normally around 100% more, so it’s great they are holding this initiative this month. If people are spending anyway [while Christmas shopping] it might encourage them to think about where they spend.” The initiative already generates around $5.5bn a year (£3.4bn) in

Fashion the ‘star performer’ in November sales By Ben Cooper

Fashion sales and a record proportion of online non-food sales boosted UK like-for-like retail sales in November, after a slow start to the month. Clothing and footwear were “star performers” in November, according to figures released by the British Retail Consortium (BRC). Driven partly by the exceptional performance of online, which accounted for more than half of all non-food growth, like-for-like sales in November grew 0.6% compared with 2012. Online non-food sales rose 16% on 2012 to make up an all-time 6

Drapers / DECEMBER 7 2013

Power surge: online non-food sales, which include fashion, have soared

high of 19.9% of total non-food sales. Excluding December, November’s online growth was the highest in three years. Total sales were up 2.3% on November 2012, which itself showed an increase of 1.8% on November 2011, but this was slower than October’s 2.6% growth and below the average of more than 3% during the summer. BRC director general Helen Dickinson said: “Clothing and footwear were star performers after a disappointing run of results, thanks to growing interest in

winter clothes and partywear.” Fashion continues to excel in terms of sales performance, rising 1.5% over the three months to the end of November, compared with an average decline of 0.4% in food sales year on year. The BRC said a warm autumn had led to “pent-up demand” as shoppers postponed buying knitwear, outerwear and onesies. With the drop in temperatures last month, footwear and clothing leapt to first and third in sector performance ranking, up from seventh and eighth in October.

‘shop small’ day

sales in the US and those involved in the UK version are hoping it could have a similar aﬀect. Toby Perkins, MP for Chesterfield and shadow small business minister, said: “I think the lesson from America is these things can grow as you go along and so it has been much bigger than we originally thought possible and we think there is great potential to grow in the future.”

He added there has been a “sense of excitement about small business” in the UK. “People have noticed what a difference small businesses make to the community and it has been incredibly uplifting and exciting. “We want people to go and see the opportunities small businesses offer and on the back of that more businesses will hopefully have the chance to impress customers who will come back again.” To celebrate the first Small Business Saturday UK, St Albans contemporary womenswear boutique The Dressing Room will offer customers double loyalty points, free styling sessions and a prize draw for a £100 voucher. Owner Deryane Tadd said the event is a good initiative to help spur footfall to independent retailers: “People in St Albans are fairly loyal to independents anyway but this is another opportunity to remind them to shop at their local stores.” Women’s young fashion indie Paper Doll, which has two stores in North Yorkshire, is celebrating the day with discounts and goodies for its customers. Jo Davies, founder of premium womenswear retailer Black White Denim in Wilmslow, Cheshire, said she is involved in a community project with other local independents that will encompass Small Business Saturday.

Burberry’s Bailey cleans up at BFC awards night By Jill Geoghegan

The British Fashion Council (BFC) has shown its support for Burberry chief creative oﬃcer and incoming chief executive Christopher Bailey by awarding the brand two of the top prizes at the British Fashion Awards this week. Burberry scooped the accolades for Designer Brand of the Year and Menswear Designer of the Year. Other award winners included Christopher Kane, who was named Womenswear Designer of the Year, and JW Anderson, who won the New Establishment Designer for 2013 for his “uncompromising vision for originality”. The International Designer of the Year award, which was introduced for the first time this year to recognise the continuing globalisation of the industry, was won by Miuccia Prada for Prada, while Nicholas Kirkwood was named Accessory Designer of the Year for the third time.

Plaudits: Burberry Prorsum showed at London Collections: Men for spring 14

Simone Rocha and design duo Agi & Sam received the Emerging Womenswear and Menswear Designer awards respectively, while Sophia Webster picked up the award for Emerging Accessories Designer. The Outstanding Achievement in Fashion gong was awarded to founders of i-D magazine Terry and Tricia Jones. Kate Moss received a Special Recognition Award.

Simon Carter is tailor-made for growth Men’s tailoring and accessories label Simon Carter has opened its fourth standalone store, in Blackheath in south London, and is gearing up for further international expansion. The 4,843 sq ft store at 9 Tranquil Vale stocks the complete autumn 13 collection. The brand’s eponymous owner told Drapers the store had beaten predicted sales figures “threefold” since opening on November 29 and he now plans to open a further two UK stores in 2014. “We are in the early stages of sourcing another two locations in southeast England. For the moment

we are staying within the Greater London region for logistical reasons but the concept of moving to where our core demographic is seems to be really working. If I like an area, so will my customers, you have to go with your gut feeling,” said Carter. He also said the brand was “pen poised” to sign a licensing deal in India, which would see Simon Carter launch via wholesale, department store concessions and standalone stores. Next year the brand will also launch in Singapore. Simon Carter has more than 150 UK stockists. It won Menswear Brand of the Year at the Drapers Awards.

PEPE’S FIRST TERM WITH CAMBRIDGE UNIVERSITY

Pepe Jeans London has unveiled a men’s casualwear line, The Cambridge Collection, in collaboration with Cambridge University. The spring 14 capsule range is inspired by sports such as rugby, rowing and cricket and includes rugby-style polo shirts, cardigans, blazers and T-shirts bearing the Cambridge logo.

DECEMBER 7 2013 /

Drapers

HERE & THERE

SAVILLE’S LACOSTE PARTY Lacoste threw a bash at the Secret Garden on the roof of London’s Shoreditch House, for the launch of a collaboration with graphic designer Peter Saville to celebrate the French brand’s 80th anniversary. Guests were treated to cocktails and canapés while DJs Adrian Forster and Ralph Hardy kept the party going.

SALUTING MR HENRI Fifty years of sailing brand Henri Lloyd and the life of co-founder Henri Strzelecki were celebrated last week at a dinner that brought together friends from all over the world. The following day almost 200 people attended a memorial for ‘Mr Henri’, who died aged 87 last December. Leopoldo Poppi of Tomasoni Topsail, which has represented Henri Lloyd in Italy for 40 years, reminisced with Henri’s sons, Martin and Paul, joint chief executives of the firm.

OFF THED OociaRl whirl RheEDrC apers s T

BETTY BACKS BRITAIN The UK Fashion & Textile Association held a reception to mark the relaunch of its Let’s Make It Here UK manufacturers’ website at London’s City Hall. Designer Betty Jackson gave an inspirational speech at the end of the night. Pictured with Jackson, right, are DISC’s Demelza Galica and UKFT’s John Miln.

ON YOUR BIKE, BARBOUR TAKING HARVEY NICHOLS BY STORM The founders of Scandinavian raincoat specialist Norwegian Rain were in London to mark the brand’s exclusive UK launch into Harvey Nichols’ Knightsbridge flagship, unveiling a special shop-in-shop-cum-exhibition concept. Created in collaboration with creative collective The Coal Project, the installation will run until the end of January. 8

Drapers / DECEMBER 7 2013

Memories of racing with Steve McQueen were swapped by motorcycling legends Johnny Brittain and John Giles at a party to celebrate the bike-themed Barbour International shop on Piccadilly, London. Dame Margaret Barbour, chairman of the company, was the hostess for the evening and admitted she had been on a motorcycle only once, as a pillion passenger. Her memory of the experience was that it was “terrifying”.

PRETTY SHARP SUITING Pretty Green launched its new Tailoring collection in Covent Garden. Singer Eugene McGuinness performed an acoustic set followed by Tim Burgess on the decks as guests browsed the offer. Shortlist magazine’s Hamish McBain took a closer look with Pretty Green’s Dean West.

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EDITOR’S COMMENT

‘All is not fair in the trade show calendar’

know time is moving on, but I’ve been putting off the frustrating task of working out my show schedule for the spring. As readers of my columns over the years will know, I do love a good trade exhibition but, like many of you, I have to weigh up very carefully what I can spare in terms of time and budget. I’m sure I’ll get some benefit from a visit to most of the dozens of events we will list in our autumn 14 Show Calendar in next week’s issue. Gleaning market information, checking out the trends and collections, meeting new contacts, renewing links with old friends and just picking up the vibe is what I do for a living, but there are many more demands on my time and Drapers’ funds. The stark truth is that trade shows aren’t what they used to be. Our news story (page 5) that Bread & Butter Berlin (BBB) is to announce a significant redirection for its July edition is an intriguing development. The show’s founder, Karl-Heinz Müller, despatched a 1,200-word letter on Monday explaining the background to his intention to change BBB’s concept so it involves the end consumers. What exactly that concept might be will be revealed at a press conference in Berlin on December 16. Having known the man since he hit the exhibition scene in July 2001 with a funky concept in Cologne that was the antithesis to the usual stodgy German trade event, I wouldn’t be surprised if the genial Karl-Heinz doesn’t pull an innovative rabbit from the hat. But the odds are stacked against him. From riding extremely high on a somewhat egotistical celebration of 10 years of Bread & Butter in 2011, the fall in influence of this

Eric Musgrave Editorial director, Drapers eric.musgrave@emap.com

ground-breaking show has been astounding, if not enjoyable, to witness. As we report this week, Superdry and G-Star are just the latest key exhibitors that will not be there for the January edition. The departure last month of Bestseller Group, which took a 64, 500 sq ft space in July last year, left a huge gap on the floorplan and we can expect lots of seating areas at Tempelhof Airport on January 14-16. In his missive, Müller lists the factors that have brought about the situation and all these have resonance and relevance for everyone in fashion retail, not only those in BBB’s jeans and casualwear heartland. First, he stresses that consumers control the market as never before. “Due to the new media, the end consumer is better informed than ever … Today, the end consumer decides what, when, how and where he buys,” he wrote. Although he owns and runs 14oz, the award-winning premium multi-brand stores in Berlin, Müller concedes the classic fashion boutique sector is under tremendous pressure from the inexorable expansion of fast-fashion

multiples such as H&M, Zara and Topshop (which, as Drapers has reported, has recently expanded in Germany). Just as significant is the growth of fashion brands’ own stores. He notes that brands are losing interest in wholesale, but insists that “only the classic fashion retail is able to establish and strengthen a brand or label in the market. Therefore, the brands will continue to need the stationary, ambitious retailer.” The flipside of the relationship, he says, is that retailers need good reliable brands to bring in the money to allow them to take risks on new labels. Online is another factor negatively affecting the brand/retailer relationship. In the BBB boss’s view, “the textile retailer often becomes the ‘try-on boudoir’ for the online customer. All this does not make life any easier for the stationary retailer”. And finally, Müller reiterates his previously heard comments that his show has made Berlin a fashion destination, but now the situation is being spoiled by too many events. As well as BBB, the city hosts Premium, Seek, The Gallery, Capsule, Bright, Berlin Fashion Week and Panorama. Igedo, organiser of the once-mighty CPD in Düsseldorf, has said it too is planning a fair in Berlin. Müller is not impressed: “A ruinous competition has begun. We all know what it means if supply overtakes demand. Especially for foreign visitors, Berlin has become confusing.” BBB’s situation is symptomatic of issues affecting many trade events, which can only reflect the realities of the market they serve. This coming spring round of shows is going to be very interesting. I’d better get on to our travel service to make my arrangements.

Drapers is based at Telephone House, 69-77 Paul Street, London EC2A 4NQ Tel: 020 3033 2600 Email: drapers@emap.com. All Drapers emails follow the style of firstname.surname@emap.com. All Drapers telephone numbers begin with 020 3033 followed by the extension number shown here. EDITORIAL Editorial Director Eric Musgrave, 2759 Deputy Editor Ana Santi, 2760 News Editor Catherine Neilan, 2771 Senior News Reporter Victoria Gallagher, 2767 Reporter Jill Geoghegan, 2861 Features Editor James Knowles, 2761 Associate Fashion Editor Graeme Moran, 2768 Fashion Writer Emily Norval, 2914 Online Editor Keely Stocker, 2762 Deputy Special Projects Editor David Brooks, 2846 Group Art Director Alison Fisher, 2764 Group Production Editor Steve Draper, 2765 Deputy Production Editor Digby Bodenham, 4235 Senior Sub-Editor Alice Hall, 4268 Supplements Production Editor Tracey Gardner, 2769 Editorial Administrator Nadine McKen, 2770 Contributors Simon Adamson COMMERCIAL Group Commercial Director James MacLeod, 2939 Advertising Manager Julia Jones-Collins, 2952 Senior Account Manager Rebecca Soni, 2958 Account Managers Elizabeth Harris, 2994, Natalie Hill, 4305 Sales Executive Daniel May, 2956 Head of Client Solutions & Events Victoria Hart, 2961 Event Manager Katie Marcel, 2962 Event Executive Rosie Birchenough, 2964 Classified Sales Executive Dawn O’Brien, 2959 Sales Administrator Lizzie Fuller, 2696 Production Manager Jo Lambert, 2677 Recruitment Advertising Account Director Peter Bruce-Smythe, 2985 Recruitment Sales Executives Freya Lucas, 2669, Rebecca Tonkinson, 2991 Senior Campaign Marketing Executive Kam Sohi, 2870 Head of Brand Hayley Ward, 4276 Production Controller David Ly, 2687 PUBLISHING Managing Director, Architecture, Fashion & Building Services Richard Breeden, 2683 Chief Executive of EMAP Natasha Christie-Miller, 2691 PA to Chief Executive of EMAP Clair Sabel, 2692 Subscriptions UK £249, UK independent retailers £195. Europe (by airmail) £342, worldwide airmail £356. EMAP Publishing Ltd. For UK subscription queries please call 0844 848 8858. For all other subscription queries please call 01604 828705. Newstrade Distribution Seymour Distribution Ltd. Tel: 020 7396 8095. Origination by F1 Colour, Copperfield St, London SE1. Printed and bound by Headley Brothers, Ashford, Kent, TN24 8HH. ISSN Number: 1479–1617. Drapers is published by EMAP, part of Top Right Group Ltd. © EMAP 2013

DECEMBER 7 2013 /

Drapers

OPINION

Talking Shop

‘Awards can give independents a real boost’

Drapersonline.com stories this week MOST READ Debenhams unveils Christmas 2013 advert Asos top management pocket nearly £60m M&S clothing sales decline accelerates WGSN acquires Stylesight Edinburgh Woollen Mill to open 100 stores over next 18 months

MOST COMMENTED Animal boss exits after two months Stitch cancels spring show Online sales soar as experts tip biggest ecommerce Christmas Grimsey calls on Chancellor to reform business rates Rescued My-Wardrobe to focus on UK

f you happened to bump into me over the past couple of weeks or so you will have noticed a huge smile on my face. The reason for this is that Ann’s Cottage was named Lifestyle Independent of the Year at the Drapers Independents Awards 2013. Words cannot express how proud I am to have won this category. To be recognised by Drapers as being the best at what we do is a massive achievement. It could almost feel slightly intimidating entering for a Drapers Award, but I would encourage any indie retailer to do it – if you are passionate about your business and it is evident throughout then you’re already halfway there. For us, the benefits of winning this award go far beyond the ceremony. The accolade of being Lifestyle Independent of the

Becci Cornelius

Director of Ann’s Cottage Surf Shops, which has nine stores in Cornwall

Year creates so many opportunities and it’s vital to capitalise on this achievement. Raising our company profile, reinforcing credibility, connecting to new brands, networking, attracting new staff and inspiring current employees are just a few of the advantages to winning an award. Being an indie retailer is tough. Competing with chain stores and a customer base that

is migrating online are just two of the challenges we have to manage. Awards add value to your reputation and market positioning, ensuring you stand apart from competitors and can persuade potential customers that purchasing from you is the right decision. The benefits of being an independent store are endless: we are part of the community, drawing in customers who have a taste for something different; we can be reactive to what’s happening around us, break the rules and set our own limits – it is not a ‘one size fits all’ experience. The Drapers Independents Awards celebrate this individuality and innovation and we will ensure we harness the power of our win. New doors are certain to open and we will be sure to walk through them.

Letters to the editor It was great to see support for UK textile manufacturers from Professor Bruce Montgomery in his article ‘Let’s believe in British manufacturing’ (Drapers, November 22). However, by reconsidering their wider supply chains, retailers could support an even broader base of UK businesses. If you take our business as one example, we’ve generated significant growth by supplying our postal packaging, which is manufactured in the UK, to online retailers and as a result we now employ more than 120 people. There are many benefits to using UK-manufactured products where commercially viable, some of which include shorter supply chains, better service and communication. David Brimelow, managing director of polythene manufacturer Duo UK, Manchester As a struggling UK denim manufacturer, I was very pleased to see the column written by Bruce Montgomery. He outlines many failings with government support and highlights the fact that with a little help from “British brands we could create a sustainable manufacturing base”. This type of media awareness keeps us going and keeps the faith. Darren Millward, owner and director, Identity Denim, Dudley

Drapers / DECEMBER 7 2013

Talking Business

‘The Government must act on late payment’

usinesses are right to be sceptical about the Government’s ability to tackle late payment. It is a notoriously difficult area to deal with, given the sensitivities the Government has to take into account among all business sectors and sizes. However, where there has been a lot of work to date on trying to change the culture around payment, the forthcoming consultation aimed at helping small businesses get paid on time could help to provide the evidence base for a specific new proposal. The little known EU Late Payment Directive is an attempt to aid businesses by allowing them to charge interest of 8.5% on bills that are more than 60 days late. Like most legislation in this area, it is only good if

Alexander Jackman Head of policy at the Forum of Private Business

businesses are willing to use it. Quite understandably, many are reluctant to, fearing it will cost them customers. Tucked away in clause 7 of the directive is the answer. It clears the way for business intermediaries – such as the Forum of Private Business – to represent companies in challenging late payers and by so doing protect their anonymity. In short, organisations like ours

can play an important role in instructing barristers to challenge grossly unfair payment terms, creating case law and helping to create a better playing field for smaller businesses. The consultation, which will open later this year and will ask for views on the prompt payment code and how it can be improved, is crucial to this proposal being taken forward. It must provide the evidence that anonymity is a major barrier to the use of existing legislation. If it can, it supports our efforts to persuade the Government of the merit of using this new opportunity. Promoting and supporting better finance for businesses is a key pillar of our work but we need all the companies we can to share their views with the Government on this important issue.

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FASHION INDEX

‘John Lewis leads the way in innovation’ Dan Coen

+8.7%

Director, corporate advisory firm Zolfo Cooper

t the risk of being controversial and sounding like a stuck record, most of the retail innovation we’re seeing at the moment seems to stem from a single source: John Lewis. As retailers come to terms with structural evolution, John Lewis provides the perfect illustration of two key aspects of successful retailing. First, John Lewis understands the importance of using its physical stores as an experiential retail platform. It continues to offer a memorable, meaningful real-world shopping experience – supported by well-trained staff, high-quality merchandise and faultless merchandising. It’s a lesson other retailers need to learn, especially those struggling with poor merchandising, overstocked shops and an unwillingness to work with location-planning experts. These specialists will not only help retailers to understand where their target customers are, but will also show them how to provide an upgraded in-store experience that meets their demands. Second, John Lewis has created a true omni-distribution platform that provides numerous opportunities to engage with its customers in new and innovative ways, whether via the internet and social media or through traditional advertising and in-store promotions. To me, John Lewis seems to be the only retailer that consistently scores highly in both of these areas, due to the fact it is never content to rest on its laurels. In its latest bid to boost customer engagement and create a memorable shopping experience, the company plans to introduce a number of peripheral services to its bricks-and-mortar stores, from barbers and opticians to bureaux de change and even post offices. The good news is that innovative ideas like these provide a blueprint for other retailers to follow. The bad news is that no one else seems to be following it. It remains to be seen how much influence Peter Ruis, John Lewis’s former buying and brand director, has had in these areas – and whether we will soon applaud similar innovations at Jigsaw, his new home. In any case, one legacy of Ruis’s is this: everyone at John Lewis clearly understands the importance of creating an experiential retail business that stops at nothing to ensure the best customer experience and in turn generate outstanding customer loyalty.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATHALIE LEES

‘The bad news is no one else seems to be following John’s Lewis’s blueprint’

Drapers

/ DECEMBER 7 2013

WEEKLY FOOTFALL RETAIL INDEX National UK footfall figures Week 48 – November 25 to December 1, 2013

-2.8% YEAR-ON-YEAR CHANGE

WEEK-ON-WEEK CHANGE

For the third consecutive week we are seeing uplift in shopper activity. The week-on-week figures saw many consumers taking advantage of the Black Friday discounts being offered, with the day seeing an 8.8% rise in visitors. The year-to-date trend is static this week, reporting at -3.9%. The Northeast was the only UK region to benefit from a year-on-year retail traffic increase this week, achieving 1% uplift.

HIGH STREET SALES TRACKER

Like-for-like sales figures across the high street Week ending December 1, 2013 C

-4.74% -4.06% Total fashion

Clothing

-3.96% Footwear

Fashion sales were poor last week with a third of the contributions in double-digit negatives. Specialist retailers provided the strongest results by far, while the majority of mainstream fashion retailers were down. For more information, email don.williams@bdo.co.uk

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The most applied for jobs BELFAST 47.2%

1. Design 9.2% 2. Production 6.7% 3. Sales 6.3% 4. Merchandising 5.9%

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5. Buying 4.7% As a percentage of total applications on DrapersJobs last week

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INDICATOR

Mainstream What’s selling now? WOMEN’S

MEN’S

Amanda Parkinson Manager, Renes Lapelle in Lancaster

Sarah Alexander Director, Ahernes of Hellifield in North Yorkshire

“Betty Barclay has been selling across the board. We’re moving a lot of the jumpers (retailing from £80) and trousers (from £90). It works because it’s not too directional and is not a one-season wonder. Joseph Ribkoff dresses (from £170) have also been selling as we approach party season.”

“The cheaper products in our Barbour collection are doing well at the moment, particularly the Barrell shirt (£54.95) and the Essential Lambswool Half-Zip Jumper (£79.95). People want the brand but don’t want to spend the money.”

Olsen

John Wilkinson Director, Shorts of Corbridge in Northumberland

Irene Mackie Owner, Bentleys in Banchory, Scotland “We’re selling a lot of Creenstone coats (£250 to £400). The range covers everything from vintage looks to the more funky. People are familiar with the brand and they tend to stick with it once they’ve tried it.”

“Casa Moda shirts (£49) are bestsellers due to the low price. Oscar of Sweden shirts (£89 to £95) are selling too – the trim makes them unique so people buy those when they want something a bit different. Gant lambswool knitwear is also a big seller (£85 to £95).”

Vicki Wheeler Owner, Ambiance of Colchester, Essex

Andrew Hannan Owner, Clarksons in Petergate, York

“We’ve been taken by surprise by one of the Ruby Ray dresses (£258). It’s a fantastic, long, gold sparkly dress. Given how difficult trading has been, to have had to place reorders on it three times prior to Christmas is fantastic. We’ve also been doing well with Frank Lyman. The black and gold jersey-style jacket (£196) has been flying out of the boutique.”

“The Harris Tweed Rory jacket (£199) has been a complete sellout. The Gurteen Donegal tweed three-piece suits also do very well. The jacket sells at £179, the trousers at £69 and the waistcoat at £69. Tweed is selling very quickly. “

Creenstone

Carole Ridley Owner, Carole Ridley, which has three stores in Kent “Sarah Pacini is a strong seller for us. We’re doing well with the sweaters (£200 to £280). We’re also selling a lot of the Oska coats (£460 to £490) and trousers (£150). They’re a great cut and practical.”

“Hawick Knitwear is doing really good business at the moment, particularly the 100% lambswool sweater (£100). The brand has a range at the moment which is promoting British Wool, so people like the fact they are supporting their home country when buying the jumpers.” Ruby Ray Meyer

Jenny Mapp Owner, Dressini in Market Bosworth, Warwickshire “We’ve been doing a lot of the Frank Lyman dresses. People like the price point and the wearability. We’re also pleased with Olsen, it has good seasonal pieces. The tops (£59 to £89) and trousers (£85) have been impressive sellers.”

Steven Dunn Manager, Frederick L Mabb Menswear in Dorchester, Dorset “Magee blazers (£189) are a strong product. Culture shirts (£59.95 to £65) is another brand impressing. They have a light trim around the collar which looks nice undone, so can be worn more casually.”

Neil Phillips Buyer, Matthew’s in Haverfordwest, Wales

Georgina Innes Owner, Brambles in Nairn, Scotland “We’ve been doing well with the Adini tunics (£49 to £59) and coats (£129). People are drawn to the price point and the quality of fabric. Frank Lyman dresses (£149 to £159) have been selling consistently as well.”

“Olymp shirts (£45 to £60) are the bestsellers at the moment along with Meyer trousers (£79 to £99). These are German brands which are always popular. They have very good styling, from the colour right through to the fit.”

James Exton Partner, Extons in Raglan, Usk and Abergavenny, south Wales

Delia Metcalfe Owner, Delia Metcalfe in Congleton, Cheshire and Leek, Staffordshire “Gerry Weber is selling strongly for us, in particular the tops (from £45) and jeans (from £85). They’re great for the more mature lady. We’re also selling a lot of the knitwear from Olsen (from £85). It’s very wearable and not ostentatious.”

Jonathan Williams Director, Montague Jeffery in Northampton

Harris Tweed Sarah Pacini

“The sports jackets from Magee (£130 to £330) are doing well. It’s a very popular look at the moment, particularly among our younger customers. Scott by the Label suits also win sales as they are at a very good price (£150 to £180). Meyer trousers (£70 to £100) are another strong seller – they’re a great fit.” DECEMBER 7 2013 /

Drapers

schuh.co.uk

The Drapers Top

Edited by ANA SANTI & JAMES KNOWLES

With 40 new entries in this year’s Drapers Top 100, it’s fair to say that 2013 has been a year of change. In the top 10 alone, there are three new entries and five of the individuals are different to last year’s list-toppers. But alongside the new faces are some old favourites who have continued to do a stellar job in running their businesses. As such, factors like austerity and business rates have joined our list. Primarily, however, it’s about people, the most influential in fashion retail.

The Top 100

Paul Marchant

chief executive, primArk

What a year for Primark chief executive Paul Marchant. In 2013, Primark continued to thunder along at a pace few could match, and in contrast to the wider industry remained committed to its bricks over clicks strategy. On the same day Marks & Spencer’s underlying pre-tax profit fell 9% to £261.6m and general merchandise like-for-like sales fell 1.5% for the first half, Primark’s profits rocketed 44% to £514m for the full year. Gone are the days when Primark simply competed in the value sector; today there are few fashion retailers not closely watching this Irish business. As such, Marchant and his team won the Fashion Retail Business of the Year (over £125m turnover) prize at the Drapers Awards, on the back of the Best Accessories Offer in a

Nick Robertson

chief executive, Asos

Nick Robertson has had another outstanding year, culminating in winning the Fashion Pure-Play Etailer of the Year prize at the Drapers Awards last month. Investment in Asos’s product range resulted in group revenues rising 39% to £769.4m and pre-tax profit grew 37% to £54.7m in the year to August 31, while the launch of localised international sites in Russia in May and China in November means the etail giant is now selling in eight countries. However, Robertson has lost some key individuals in his management team – Kate Bostock’s tenure as executive director, product and trading lasted just seven months and Asos’s first employee (and current director) James Hart announced he will be leaving the business next year.

High Street Fashion Multiple at the Drapers Footwear & Accessories Awards earlier in the year. But it’s not just in the UK where Primark is an unstoppable force. It now has 256 stores across the UK, Republic of Ireland, Germany, Spain and the Netherlands, with plans to open five stores in France from this month. Primark also won the International Fashion Retailer of the Year accolade at this year’s Drapers Awards. However, the collapse of supplier Rana Tazeen’s Bangladesh factory, in which more than 1,000 people were killed, led to criticism of Primark’s fast-fashion operations, but it responded by being the first retailer to sign up to the Bangladesh Accord and offering compensation to victims’ families. Since replacing founder Arthur Ryan as chief executive, Marchant has brought more visibility to this publicity-shy retailer and remains popular and well-respected among his peers. Last year’s position 2

Despite this, Robertson shows little sign of slowing down in his ambition to grow the business and in October announced plans to invest £110m over the next two years, with a particular focus on distribution and IT infrastructure. If the success of this year is anything to go by, the £1bn sales target that Robertson has set himself might just be in reach. Last year’s position 1

Lord Wolfson

chief executive, Next

Baron Wolfson of Aspley Guise’s quiet demeanour should fool no one. The chief executive of Next for the past 12 years is a totally committed retailer who continues to steer one of the most consistent performers in UK fashion. And the proof is in the results. Next’s operating profits rose 7.2% to £285m during its first half thanks to

a 3.9% rise in full-price sales, while sales increased 2.2% to £1.68bn. The good news continued in Next’s third quarter with a 4.3% jump in sales, prompting the retailer to up its profit forecast for the year. Wolfson, who joined Next as a sales consultant in Kensington in 1991, leads a stable management team and has become something of a guru for the retail sector, providing regular commentary on the economic outlook with quarterly updates on movements in weekly sales. At just 47, this Conservative peer has many years ahead of him – if he doesn’t swap retailing for full-time politics, that is. Last year’s position 4

Mike Ashley

fouNder, sports direct An abundance of acquisitions, soaring sales and a footing in the FTSE 100 mean Mike Ashley’s influence continued

to ricochet throughout the retail sector this year. Ashley started 2013 off strongly when Sports Direct bought the majority of young fashion retailer Republic out of administration, and throughout the year the group’s profits continued to rise. In the nine weeks to September 29, gross profit increased 19.4% to £199.8m as group sales rose 15.1% to £463.7m. However, Sports Direct has been sweating slightly under the spotlight due to its use of zero-hour contracts and could face legal challenges from up to 20,000 of these workers over unpaid bonuses, holiday and sick pay. Nonetheless the company’s surging valuation saw it jump from the FTSE 250 to the top flight for the first time in September. Ashley has also continued to add to his portfolio this year, snapping up a majority stake in six-store young fashion retailer Pulp and buying outdoor brand Gelert. With Bench understood to be next on Ashley’s hit list, 2014 could be another strong year for the Newcastle United owner. Last year’s position 3 u DECEMBER 7 2013 /

Drapers

the tOP 100

Sir Philip Green owner, ArcAdiA

The fashion world would look very different if it weren’t for Sir Philip, who edges up one spot into the top five. This year has been all about extending his influence outside the UK, a process that started some time ago but was ratcheted up in 2013 with launches in cities such as Paris, Hong Kong and LA. Arcadia’s Topshop and Topman fascias are exporting Brit-chic cool to the world, with other fascias including Miss Selfridge and Burton looking to replicate that success as they build on their own international footprints. Overseas growth is essential – Arcadia’s results for the year to August 31 showed a 2.7% decline in like-for-like sales – but with a total turnover of £2.735bn, Arcadia is still very much a force to be reckoned with at home too. And with his presence at London Fashion Week and the Fashion Retail Academy, Green is ensuring his influence is felt well beyond the confines of Arcadia with the next generation of designers, buyers and shoppers. Last year’s position 6

NEW ENTRY

Andy Street

mAnAging director, John Lewis

The Aston Villasupporting boss of John Lewis set out his stall early this year when he said he wanted to double fashion sales at the department store. We’ll have to wait until March to discover if he reached that target, but even at this stage it’s clear that 2013 was the year in which John Lewis upped its fashion credentials, with its debut catwalk at London Collections: Men, the launch of its own lifestyle label Kin, and the expansion of the womenswear Somerset by Alice Temperley range into kidswear and lingerie. 22

Drapers / DECEMBER 7 2013

John Lewis’s fashion market share is expected to edge up from 2% to 2.1%, showing there is still more to come, but also highlighting how it punches well above its weight in terms of column inches. And for Street personally, 2013 was the year that saw a real increase in his profile as the man responsible for quietly establishing John Lewis as the UK’s high street bellwether in place of Marks & Spencer.

Christopher Bailey & Angela Ahrendts

chief creAtive officer And chief executive eLect, & outgoing chief executive, BurBerry

Angela Ahrendts’ imminent departure to take up the newly created role of senior vice president at Apple may be breaking up fashion’s unbeatable duo, but their influence this year has been undisputable; where Burberry leads, everyone still follows. The pair pushed the British heritage brand through the £1bn sales barrier for the first time in the six months to September 30, up 17% on the same period last year, while pre-tax profit remained flat. The business’s digital innovation still sets the agenda within the industry, and its womenswear and menswear shows remain the hottest tickets at London Fashion Week, influencing everyone from the luxury sector down to the high street. Burberry chairman Sir John Pearce thanked Ahrendts and said she built a “great culture” and had led the company through an “incredible transformation” over the past eight years. As Ahrendts’ spring exit grows nearer, all eyes will now be on Bailey’s transition to the role of both chief creative and chief executive officer, a move that drew a mixed response from the industry, with some commending his creative genius and others questioning his business credentials. Last year’s position 31 & 8

NEW ENTRY

Pablo Isla

chief executive And chAirmAn, inditex

As the chairman and chief executive of Spanish group Inditex, Pablo Isla oversees an impressive roster of brands including Pull & Bear, Massimo Dutti and Bershka. But it’s Zara, the jewel in the Inditex crown, that has secured Isla’s place on the list this year. Always ahead of the trends and with an unbeatable supply chain, Zara’s consistently impressive product ensures it remains a firm favourite with shoppers in the UK and overseas. Inditex reported a 1% rise in net profits to £797m and a 6% increase in sales to £6.3bn during the first half of 2013. A truly international business, Inditex opened a further 95 stores in 40 countries during the same period, launched Zara online in Russia in the autumn, and is set to open Zara stores as far apart as Seattle in the US and Port Elizabeth in South Africa before the end of the year.

Barry Bown

chief executive, Jd sports fAshion

From streetwear brands to international retailers, JD Sports Fashion showed no restraint when it came to bringing new companies into its fold this year. Chief executive Barry Bown and his team bought streetwear brand Gio-Gio out of administration back in February, then later that month emerged triumphant from the bidding war over branded footwear etailer Cloggs. The straight-talking Northerner once again played the knight in shining armour in June, acquiring mini-chain Ark out of administration, saving 10 of its 14 stores and 160 jobs. The company is also making its mark in the Netherlands after

buying 17-store contemporary menswear retailer Setpoint, and just last month took a controlling stake in Scottish outdoor retailer Tiso, which has 10 stores. Although JD’s fashion arm has been underperforming – like-forlikes fell 2.2% for the 26 weeks to August 3 – Bown has addressed this by hiring Republic co-founder Carl Brewins as commercial director and former Reiss trading director Gwynn Milligan as managing director of its Bank chain. Despite its fashion woes, the retailer’s pre-tax profits more than doubled in the first half of the year to £6.1m. In the 16 weeks to November 2, like-for-likes remained stable at around 5.8%. Last year’s position 17

NEW ENTRY

Sergio Bucher

vice president of fAshion for europe, AmAzon

Amazon may not be famous for its fashion, but since Sergio Bucher joined as vice president of fashion for Europe in April, the etail giant has begun to see serious traction in the market – and it’s potential for growth is enormous. Bucher heads up the strategy and direction of Amazon’s clothing and footwear division, which this year launched brand pages allowing retailers to set up a customised landing page on the site as well as take advantage of its social network buttons and analytics tool. In June, Amazon took home the Consumer Choice award at the Drapers & Retail Week PayPal Etail Awards, proving its popularity with shoppers. In September, footwear heavyweight Clarks opened its kids’ footwear Amazon shop after a previously successful trial, despite criticism from the independent sector. More recently, the etailer has opened an impressive new office in Holborn in central London and is preparing for another recordbreaking Christmas, when it expects to take more than 3.5 million orders on its busiest day.

Michael Ward & Marigay McKee

managing director, & outgoing chief merchant, harrods

Much like Burberry’s Ahrendts and Bailey, Michael Ward and Marigay McKee have long been established as the Harrods dream team. He, a likeable Northerner, successfully running the most luxurious store in the UK, arguably the world; she, the impeccably groomed beauty queen, ensuring Harrods’ product offer and experience are second to none. Their efforts paid off once more with turnover up 10% to £716.3m for the year to February 2. But the pair will be no more as of next year – US department store business Saks Fifth Avenue has snapped up McKee as its president, a huge job which is testament to what she has achieved at Harrods. Her former role of chief merchant has been split between Helen David, fashion director of womenswear, accessories, fine jewellery and kidswear, and Jason Broderick, fashion director for menswear, sports and watches. Last year’s position 26

Ray Kelvin

founder and chief executive, ted Baker

Just when you think Ray Kelvin can’t make Ted any better, he surprises you. In April, publicity-shy Kelvin was the highest-climbing fashion name on The Sunday Times Rich List for 2013 at number 347, as his wealth rose from £135m to £231m. While this hasn’t yet encouraged him to show his full face in public, we can guess he’s been dishing out a few of his renowned bear hugs in celebration. In just over a year Ted Baker has

opened stores France, Adelaide, Beirut, Kuwait, Abu Dhabi and Dubai. Sales have continually outstripped expectations, with group revenues up 24.4% to £77.1m for the 13 weeks to November 9. To top it all, it’s the brand’s 25th anniversary, but perhaps Kelvin’s biggest achievement in 2013 is beating Andy Murray at table tennis three days after he won Wimbledon. Last year’s position 13

David Shepherd

chief operating officer for trading, arcadia

A year and a half into his role as Sir Philip Green’s third in command, David Shepherd had a lower public profile in 2013 but as boss of one of Arcadia’s most important and best-performing fascias, Topman, he remains influential. This year Topman continued its joint initiative with Fashion East on emerging designer show MAN at London Collections: Men and built its international reach by wholesaling in South Korea, Taiwan, Paris and Hong Kong, among others. In the UK Topman has performed well. Arcadia doesn’t split its results out but Green admits that Topman and Topshop are its most profitable fascias and, with investment from Leonard Green & Partners the business is set to continue to grow. Last year’s position 12

Christos Angelides

group product director, next

For a man with one of the biggest product jobs in UK fashion, Christos Angelides has one of the lowest public profiles (but we do lure him to the Drapers Awards). At Next for almost 30 years, the product kingpin and right-hand man of Lord Wolfson has had a strong influence on the high

street, ensuring Next’s place as a frontrunner in UK fashion. Angelides’ collections continued to fly from the rails – sales rose 4.3% in the third quarter of 2013, retail revenues grew 0.4%and Next Directory sales soared 10.7%. The retailer duly increased its profit forecast for the year from £635m to £675m, to between £650m and £680m. It’s particularly interesting when compared with Next’s main rival Marks & Spencer, which at present can only dream of such clothing growth. Last year’s position 11

Peter Ruis

chief executive, jigsaw

For eight months of this year, the charming Peter Ruis continued to work his magic on the nation’s current favourite retailer, John Lewis. The retailer’s fashion sales rose 4.2% in the first half of the year, thanks to own-label ranges such as Somerset by Alice Temperley and John Lewis & Co. Ruis’s parting gift, before he took up the chief executive role at Jigsaw in September, was the completion of John Lewis’s now famous Christmas ad. Since the ad launched, sales have broken the £100m mark for two consecutive weeks. Now at Jigsaw, with a holiday in Morocco in between, Ruis has already started to implement various changes and is confident he can grow sales and elevate the retailer’s perception among consumers. Only time will tell – hence his drop out of the top 10 this year – but few would bet against him. Last year’s position 5

Mary Homer

managing director, topshop With nearly 30 years’ experience at Arcadia, Mary Homer continues to keep trend-focused Topshop – the jewel

in Sir Philip Green’s retail crown – ahead of the competition. In the year to August 31, Arcadia’s total sales rose to £2.73bn, up from £2.67bn the year before, thanks partly to Topshop. Homer continued to take the womenswear retailer global this year, beginning her assault on the Chinese market with a 14,000 sq ft flagship store in Hong Kong, while telling Drapers that Beijing and Shanghai were next on her hit list. Meanwhile the first French Topshop landed in Paris, while another 30,000 sq ft store opened its doors to adoring fans in Los Angeles. It also added a further 28 concessions in US department store chain Nordstrom, taking its total to 42. Topshop also lured back Kate Moss this year, signing up the supermodel for another collaborative collection that Homer hopes will prove to be an instant sellout. Last year’s position 21

Michael Sharp

chief executive, deBenhams

Michael Sharp falls eight places this year, taking him outside the top 10 for the first time in two years. But it is reflective of the business, as Debenhams’ profits fell 2.7% as a result of what Sharp dubbed the “challenging environment” – although some critics point out its competitors have fared rather better, and without the default discounting that seems to characterise the store group so much. However, international growth continues apace, and there is light at the end of the tunnel with the completion of the revamp of its 200,000 sq ft Oxford Street flagship due next year. This high-profile facelift, which includes a muchhyped ‘kinetic’ store facade, will almost certainly put Debenhams back on the map for next year, and it is hoping to win back both brands and customers when they see the whole picture. Sharp should look forward to a better 2014, therefore – and perhaps a return to the top 10. Last year’s position 9 u DECEMBER 7 2013 /

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the top 100

Anne Pitcher

Managing director, selfridges

Selfridges’ first lady Anne Pitcher has overseen a standout year for the retailer, with several major projects having come to fruition in 2013. The Denim Studio opened in June in the Oxford Street store, the world’s biggest denim department, housing jeans priced from £11 to £11,000, winning high praise in Drapers’ Shopwatch feature. International expansion was also on the cards this year, as the retailer expanded its ecommerce operation overseas, to deliver to an additional 54 countries. In November, the world’s first fashion drive-through click-and-collect service was launched on Oxford Street just in time for Christmas. One of the personal highlights for Pitcher was Selfridges’ hosting of the switch on of Oxford Street’s Christmas lights, when she told Drapers she felt it was “our turn”, although she also highlighted the glass elevator in the recently opened and headline-grabbing Louis Vuitton shop-in-shop as her new favourite part of the store. Last year’s position 22

NON-MOVER

Don McCarthy & John King

chairMan, & chief executive, house of fraser

Don McCarthy and John King have pushed own brand and multichannel as their twin paths out of the recession, and while House of Fraser hasn’t had stellar results, given the overall trading climate it’s fair to say they are respectable. This was the first year that House of Fraser took its heritage reputation overseas, with the launch of its Abu Dhabi store – thought to be the first

of many. At the start of 2013 it seemed certain the department store chain would be acquired – either by Sports Direct’s Mike Ashley or at one point by the Harrodsowning Qatar Investment Authority – but by the year end it appears a public listing is now on the cards. This would finally sort out the complicated shareholder structure and debts that remain on House of Fraser’s balance sheet as a hangover from the Icelandic banks’ collapse.

NON-MOVER

Marc Bolland

chief executive, Marks & spencer

Marc Bolland is also a non-mover this year, in recognition of the fact his much-needed turnaround of Marks & Spencer’s womenswear is yet to filter through to the bottom line. While there have been definite improvements in quality and style in the first collection under style director Belinda Earl – and the spring 14 preview was certainly encouraging – Bolland revealed half-year results in November that showed yet another drop in general merchandise like-for-likes, this time by 1.5% in the 26 weeks to September 28, meaning the business has now reported declines for nine consecutive quarters. This autumn was supposedly make or break for Bolland, but he insists the retailer must make baby steps and M&S shareholders appear to be giving him more time to see if the changes will have an impact. He is in a better position to climb for next year, but until we see a tangible improvement to M&S’s clothing figures, Bolland remains outside the Top 100’s upper tier.

and retailers alike decided austerity is the new normal. Retailers continued to fail in 2013, from Republic at the start of the year to Barratts in the winter. However, for many retailers, there has been an improvement over the past few years – people are buying, albeit only one item rather than five. When it comes to the bottom line, austerity means that for most revenues are flat at best, making market share an even more important measure of growth. And despite government figures showing a recovery of sorts, energy price hikes and other rising costs could put a further strain on consumers next year.

NEW ENTRY

The Weston family

owners, selfridges, priMark and brown thoMas

This retail dynasty remained the highest-ranking fashion retailers in The Sunday Times Rich List this year, at number 11. Cousins Galen and George Weston and their families own a plethora of businesses including Selfridges, Primark, Brown Thomas in Dublin and Fortnum & Mason. Galen’s daughter Alannah Weston was made creative director at Selfridges after her father bought the business in 2003, and despite initial scepticism has since been credited with making a real impact on the retailer. She is also part of this year’s London Collections: Men (LCM) committee to champion British designers and support the shows and events at LCM. In November, the Westons were also rumoured to be vying for a stake in Ireland’s largest department store, Arnotts, as the family shows no signs of slowing down in its bid for retail domination.

NEW ENTRY

Carlos Duarte NEW ENTRY

Austerity

You may have escaped the phrase ‘Austerity Britain’ if you were hiding in a cave this year, but only just. As the nation struggles to recover from the global downturn that took hold in 2008, politicians

uk & ireland country Manager, h&M Although suffering a global slowdown in sales this year, Swedish fast-fashion retailer H&M has not dropped the

pace on its UK expansion. UK and Ireland country manager Carlos Duarte, who took up the role in September 2012, has set his sights on 15 store openings this year alone that will take its total number of UK and Irish stores to 245. New locations include Perth in Scotland, Salisbury, Norwich, Cheltenham and Hammersmith in London. Store refurbishments are part of Duarte’s drive and H&M’s Oxford Circus flagship was one of the first to be revamped. What was previously a low-ceilinged, claustrophobic shop floor has been transformed into a sleek and airy space and extended from three to six floors. Globally, H&M has not had such an easy ride and like-for-like sales for the nine months to August 31 fell 2% to SEK 92,067m (£8.9bn). But in the past five years, H&M has grown its share of the UK clothing market from 1.6% in 2008 to 2.2% in 2013, according to Verdict Research. However, its designer collaborations mean the product is still much in demand – its latest tie-up with Isabel Marant crashed the website, such was its popularity.

NEW ENTRY

Cara Delevingne Model

Barely a week goes by without a mention of model-of-themoment Cara Delevingne – whether it’s due to her work in the fashion industry, her after-hours antics, predilection for selfies or a relationship with a certain member of One Direction. However, her impact on the modelling world can’t be denied. Nominated for Model of the Year at this year’s British Fashion Awards (she lost out to Edie Campbell), Delevingne also featured on catwalks aplenty including Chanel, Valentino and Topshop. She was also the face of Mulberry’s autumn 13 campaign and has now moved into the lingerie sector as the face of La Perla. Moving from catwalk to the big screen, Delevingne is rumoured to be starring in a new film next year about the 2009 murder trial of American u Amanda Knox. DECEMBER 7 2013 /

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the top 100

Brian McCluskey

Chief exeCutive, OffiCe

Brian McCluskey has retained his title as highest-ranked footwear chief executive in this year’s list, and with good reason. Office continues to lead the high street footwear offer, with on-trend quality and design at the right price. It provides shoppers with a tempting mix of strong own-brand product as well as some of the biggest brands in the business such as Hudson, Ugg Australia and Toms. For the year to January 27, 2013, Office reported a 19% increase in sales to £243.4m, while profits after tax climbed to £28.6m from £25.5m. This year the retailer unveiled its new store concept with the launch of its flagship store on the eastern end of Oxford Street in August. It also expanded internationally with the opening of its first standalone shops outside of the UK and Republic of Ireland, with German store launches in Oberhausen and Düsseldorf. Determined to build its overseas profile, McCluskey also launched French and German language websites. At present Office has 153 outlets globally comprising 101 standalone stores (including seven Offspring sports fascias) and 52 concessions (six Offspring) in Selfridges, Topshop, House of Fraser and Harvey Nichols. Last year’s position 23

NEW ENTRY

John Lyttle

Chief Operating OffiCer, primark

Primark continued its dominance of the high street this year, winning twice at the Drapers Awards in November and reporting soaring annual profits, ensuring chief executive Paul Marchant’s number one position in the Top 100. But we all know that at the centre of any great business is great product, and

what really sets Primark apart from its competitors is its on-trend, fast-fashion offer at affordable prices. Step forward John Lyttle. Primark’s chief operating officer has responsibility for buying and sourcing across the UK and international operations. Together with his outstanding team, Lyttle has ruled not just the value sector but the mainstream market too by giving Primark’s growing army of fans exactly what they want: a balance of trend-focused product which combines catwalk directions, celebrity style and seasonal classics with the all-important purse-friendly prices.

NEW ENTRY

Julian Dunkerton & James Holder

Chief exeCutive, & brand and design direCtOr, supergrOup

There’s no stopping this SuperGroup duo, as sales continue to soar. In its most recent results for the 13 weeks to October 27, the Superdry owner posted an 18.5% rise in total group sales to £116.6m. This year, Julian Dunkerton and James Holder regained control of various aspects of the business, bringing the UK wholesale team in-house, taking over its agency operation in Germany and acquiring its Spanish distributor. International expansion has also been topping the agenda with the plotting of moves into Turkey, Malaysia, Singapore and South America. The UK is still at the forefront of SuperGroup’s mind though, with plans to up its retail footprint by 80,000 sq ft to 100,000 sq ft in the next year. This year SuperGroup is also primed for the next major phase of development with the launch of a £5m distribution centre, due to be operational by the end of April next year. Last year’s position 38 (Dunkerton)

Jane Shepherdson

Chief exeCutive, whistles

Nicknamed by some as “the Phoebe Philo of the high street”, Jane Shepherdson has continued to evolve Whistles this year while paving the way for further growth. The womenswear retailer’s directional yet commercial collections, which are popular with high-profile shoppers including the Duchess of Cambridge and Prime Minister’s wife Samantha Cameron, graced London Fashion Week for the first time in February as it hosted two sittings of a salon show to unveil its autumn 13 Limited Edition line. In August, Whistles continued to spread its wings overseas when it began trading in China and Hong Kong in a partnership with luxury department store Lane Crawford. Back in the UK, despite tough conditions on the high street, Whistles has prospered. In the nine months to September 30, while declining to reveal actual trading figures, it reported “outstanding” online growth and positive like-for-like sales across its bricks-and-mortar stores. Shepherdson has set her sights on menswear next year, with plans for Whistles’ debut collection for autumn 14. Last year’s position 27

Bernaud Arnault

Chairman and Chief exeCutive, lvmh

He may be chairman and chief executive of a French luxury goods group – LVMH, whose brands include the likes of Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior and Céline – but Bernard Arnault has been making his presence felt in the UK this year, most notably in London. LVMH snapped up a minority and majority stake respectively in designer label JW Anderson and

footwear label Nicholas Kirkwood. As if that were not enough, Arnault was awarded the title Knight Commander of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire for his services to UK business, presented by the Prince of Wales. LVMH’s success continued this year with a 4% rise in like-for-like sales of fashion and leather goods for the nine months to September 30, 2013, with overall revenues up 4.3% to €20.72bn (£17.50bn). Arnault also made one of the biggest hires of the year, signing former Balenciaga creative director Nicolas Ghesquière as Louis Vuitton’s new artistic director of womenswear, following Marc Jacobs’ departure. Last year’s position 25

Derek Lovelock

exeCutive Chairman, aurOra fashiOns

Renowned for being a mentor to many of the UK fashion industry’s leading lights, Derek Lovelock’s impact on the sector was recognised at the Drapers Awards in November where he received this year’s Lifetime Achievement Award to rapturous applause. This was the culmination of a busy year which began with Lovelock leading the spinning-out of womenswear chain Coast from the Aurora Fashions group, leaving Warehouse and Oasis under the newly created Fresh Channel business, so each can act with more autonomy and to allow Oasis and Warehouse more freedom to grow their omnichannel and international offerings. With Liz Evans heading up Oasis and Warehouse, Lovelock also brought in Kate Bostock in September to lead the transition of Coast and add more contemporary items to its previous occasionwear offering. Lovelock is due to take on a non-executive role across all Aurora businesses next year but it is pretty certain the self-confessed fashion obsessive will not be leaving the sector any time soon. Last year’s position 44 u DECEMBER 7 2013 /

Drapers

tHE toP 100

NEW ENTRY

Alan White & Angela Spindler

former chief executive, & chief executive, n Brown

Despite a change of leadership at N Brown this year, with Alan White handing over the chief executive baton to Angela Spindler in July, the transition appears to have been seamless, as the home shopping business has gone from strength to strength. N Brown, parent company of retailers including Jacamo, Simply Be and Figleaves, delivered a 7.1% surge in pre-tax profits to £45m in the 26 weeks to August 31, as total group revenue rose 8% to £409.6m. The group also benefitted from a contemporary makeover of plus-size fascia JD Williams’ womenswear collection, which helped boost sales to older women. Spindler joined N Brown from discount department store group Original Factory Shop, and received a ‘golden hello’ for the move, which could lift her earnings to almost £4m over the next three years. And retail expansion is on the cards with N Brown, which has seven shops, including six dual fascia Simply Be and Jacamo stores, planning to grow its estate to around 25. Last year’s position 43��White�

Catherine

duchess of camBridge

The Duchess of Cambridge, mother of Prince George, may have slipped down the list but the ‘Kate effect’ has still been a powerful force on the high street. During her pregnancy, maternitywear label Séraphine reported a 300% rise in sales of its 95% viscose Blossom dress – priced at £55 – after she wore it, and the 28

Drapers / DECEMBER 7 2013

brand reported overall sales growth of 40%. The first public appearance of Prince George Alexander Louis in a bird-print Aden + Anais muslin blanket caused the item to sell out within two weeks, showing that the latest addition to the royal family looks set to have a similar effect on retail as his mother. No doubt this is a trend the kidswear market will be hoping continues into 2014 and beyond. Last year’s position ��

Andy Rubin

chief executive, Pentland Brands

In 2013 Andy Rubin continued to build on what he described as a record year at Pentland Brands in 2012, with the legacy of the Olympics fuelling growth at its sportswear brands Speedo and Lacoste footwear. Parent company Pentland Group’s total revenues increased 14.2% to £1.74bn for the year to December 31, while UK sales at Pentland Brands, which owns labels such as Berghaus, Canterbury of New Zealand, Mitre, Boxfresh and Red or Dead, rose 18%. In the retail division, which includes a 57% stake in JD Sports Fashion, revenues climbed 7.4% to £1.11bn, excluding sales at Blacks, which was acquired in January last year. Rubin said the strong results were a result of investment the business had put into global growth over the past 10 years. Last year’s position 35

Steve Buck

managing director, BarBour

Steve Buck has continued to bolster the British staple outerwear brand this year with further investment and key hires. In May, Barbour received £549,000 from a regional

government initiative, which it used to create more than 136 jobs at its South Shields headquarters, as well as extending its warehouse facilities. The investment lays the foundations for further growth by expanding capacity and allowing Barbour to export to new markets. The same month Buck boosted the senior management team by hiring Paul Wilkinson as head of marketing and Ryan Llewellyn-Pace as sales director for the UK and Ireland to drive the business’s expansion, particularly in the UK. Then in August, Buck tightened his grip over Barbour’s branding by bringing its website in-house, replacing the former Barbour by Mail website that previously sold the brand’s fashion collections. Later on in November, the company opened its first store for its Barbour International sub-brand on St James’s Gateway in London’s Piccadilly. Last year’s position 2�

Takao Kuwahara

uK chief executive, uniQlo

Japanese retailer Uniqlo remained a force on the high street this year despite only having 10 stores in the UK, all in London. Takao Kuwahara and his team have managed to add more trend-led looks to its spot-on basics offering, while the chain’s value-formoney appeal gets shoppers through the door. The retailer unleashed its charms on the kidswear market during 2013, with hopes to steal a slice of the action with a debut 300-piece collection that hit stores on August 23. In the year to August 31, sales at Uniqlo International rose 64% to ¥251.1bn (£1.5bn). Uniqlo Europe, which includes stores in the UK, France and Russia, broke even for the year, in line with expectations. As a global business, Uniqlo, which was founded in Japan in 1984, now operates 1,200 stores across 14 countries, with Germany on the agenda for next year. Last year’s position 2�

NEW ENTRY

Anders Kristiansen

chief executive, new looK

Anders Kristiansen has made his influence felt in the year since taking the reins at New Look. Within a few months he had shaken up the senior management team, resulting in a flurry of departures and new hires. In April, the team had secured enough faith from the financial community to underwrite an £800m bond issue, through which Kristiansen and his team were able to stabilise New Look’s balance sheet for another five years – long enough, it is hoped, for him to implement a turnaround. By June, profits were already looking healthier and results published in November showed that for the 26 weeks to September 28, profits had rocketed 53.5% to £70.9m, with sales growing 6%.

NEW ENTRY

Mary Portas vs Bill Grimsey

Although Mary Portas has been less visible this year than last, the public spats between the Queen of Shops and her nemesis Bill Grimsey have generated plenty of column inches. Back in March Grimsey took the first swipe, claiming Portas was simply seeking publicity with her work to revive town centres, and later revealed his own plans to become saviour of the high street. Portas was hauled over the coals by MPs for the lack of detail in her review. But while Grimsey picked holes in her version, his own high street review differed on just a few points – many of which were dismissed by experts as unworkable. So while their public feuding kept us entertained, many retailers felt little progress was made in their aim to secure the future of the high street.

Sebastian Manes

Buying and merchandising director, selfridges

A promotion in May saw Sebastian Manes, former buying director of womenswear, accessories and childrenswear, become Selfridges’ buying and merchandising boss. In his newly created role, Manes oversaw the launch of the department store’s Denim Studio, which cost more than £6m and comprises 11,000 pairs of jeans, ranging from an £11 Primark option through to an £11,000 diamondencrusted pair by Paige. The new denim area was met with widespread praise from the industry. Elsewhere, Manes and his team, including former Mr Porter buying manager Terry Betts, who joined as Selfridges’ new director of menswear, continues to set itself apart from competitors by securing brand exclusives and championing new and emerging labels. Last year’s position 47

Natalie Massenet

chairman, British fashion council, and executive chairman, net-a-Porter

After taking up the position of chairman at the British Fashion Council last year, Natalie Massenet kicked off 2013 with her first London Fashion Week and by unveiling plans to boost the UK’s fashion sector by focusing on five pillars – investment, education, innovation, digital and reputation. The plans were praised by buyers and in February Marks & Spencer became the first partner in a Best of British initiative, focusing on UK manufacturing, design and retail. Massenet’s other role as founder and chairman of Net-a-Porter has also kept her busy. In March, the etailer announced it will launch local language sites in China, France and

Germany, as the business continues to show the sector how the luxury market can thrive in a digital world. Last year’s position 32

Ben Lewis

chief executive, river island

Ben Lewis rises a few places this year after he reversed the fortunes of River Island, which reported a 12.5% increase in pre-tax profits to £97.8m for the year to December 29, 2012, while turnover rose 0.4% to £802.3m. This is in stark contrast to last year, when profits plunged 25%. River Island’s marketing and product collaboration with pop star Rihanna was ramped up this year and it picked up the Fashion Marketing Campaign of the Year accolade at the Drapers Awards 2013. Lewis also focused on bolstering the business’s retail footprint by opening 14 stores – half in the UK and half overseas – as well as refitting eight shops and relocating its London and Liverpool flagships to larger premises. River Island also launched an Australian website in June and expanded its presence in Southeast Asia. Last year’s position 45

NEW ENTRY

The Hargreaves family owners of matalan, nicole farhi and fenn wright manson

The Hargreaves family is a force to be reckoned with and its increasing impact on the value and womenswear markets this year has catapulted its members into the Top 100. Matalan founder John Hargreaves’ (pictured) children Maxine and Jason have followed in their father’s footsteps, with Jason now at the helm of Matalan, having been appointed as managing director in July, and Maxine with her stable of womenswear brands.

Position

HIGHEST NEW ENTRIES Andy Street, managing director, John lewis

Pablo Isla, chief executive and chairman, inditex

Sergio Bucher, chief executive, amazon

Austerity

The Weston family

Carlos Duarte, uK and ireland country manager, h&m

Cara Delevingne, model

John Lyttle, chief operating officer, Primark

James Holder, brand and design director, supergroup

Angela Spindler, chief executive, n Brown

John Hargreaves bought Fenn Wright Manson last year, with his daughter taking a front seat in running the business. Maxine Hargreaves-Adams has been on the acquisition trail herself, and in June snapped up a 50% stake in Damsel in a Dress. She acquired Nicole Farhi out of administration in July and has since merged the Fenn Wright Manson and Nicole Farhi teams. Matalan this year also launched a new sports fascia, Sporting Pro. Headed up by former JJB chief executive Tom Knight, it plans to open 15 UK stores before Christmas.

NEW ENTRY

Jane Wilson and Denise Tavernier

directors, chiltern street studio

Chiltern Street Studio rounded off another successful year by winning the prize for Fashion Agency or Distributor of the year at the Drapers Independents Awards in November. Directors Jane Wilson and Denise Tavernier, legendary for their hugely popular lunch meetings, were praised by our awards judges for their uncanny ability to introduce new brands and products. Their Marylebone showroom, housed in an old Victorian school house, contains a portfolio of brands including Odd Molly, Ida by Donna Ida, Bellerose and Leon & Harper.

The agency has gone from strength to strength since it was founded in 2005, earning a reputation for a great eye for brands, as well as quality service when it comes to wholesaling, distribution and press services. Incidentally, the press team runs one of Drapers’ favourite Twitter presences, with witty insights into the quirky world of the agency.

NEW ENTRY

M-commerce

‘The year of the mobile’ has been heralded for the past few years, but it was at Christmas last year and then fully in 2013 that the channel really took off with consumers. And fashion retailers have been quick to react. While many retailers already had mobile-optimised sites, this year traffic numbers have soared and in some cases the sales figures too. John Lewis online director Mark Lewis predicts mobile will be the “shining star of Christmas 2013” and expects mobile and smart devices to drive half of all its website traffic on December 25. According to market research firm Verdict Retail, online spend via these devices will grow from £7.9bn in 2013 to £23.1bn in 2018 as consumers become more comfortable with shopping and transacting through the channel. Despite reports of limited consumer use of QR codes in store, the future growth in use of mobile devices for shopping means investment will need to be allocated to integrate the offline experience u with online. DECEMBER 7 2013 /

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THE TOP 100

Sir Paul Smith DESIGNER

This year saw the opening of Hello, My Name is Paul Smith, the London Design Museum’s celebration of Sir Paul Smith’s prolific career in fashion. Smith is undoubtedly one of Britain’s most renowned designers; with commercial prowess and industry credibility he achieves wholesale and retail success in equal measures, pleasing stockists with strong sell-throughs. During 2013 he opened his new shop at 9 Albemarle Street in London, extending and redeveloping a pre-existing Paul Smith shop, and continued his overseas growth with a new store in Beijing. Smith’s dash of eccentric style has kept him at the top of his game. A favourite of independents and department stores across the world, with more than 500 wholesale accounts in Japan alone, last year his company’s global turnover topped £400m. Not bad for a man who left school at 15. Last year’s position 46

Allan Winstanley

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR OF WOMENSWEAR, ACCESSORIES, BEAUTY AND VISUAL, HOUSE OF FRASER

Since making the move from the House of Fraser menswear department to head up its womenswear division late last year, Allan Winstanley immediately set about shaking things up. This started with staff moves and selected redundancies, leading to what Winstanley described as a “customer-focused” structure. Autumn 13 was the tipping point for his new direction for the department store group, with lower entry prices introduced across several womenswear and accessories brands including Biba and Pied a

Terre. The season also saw 20 new labels added to the womenswear offer and 50 to accessories. Spring is set to be another period of development – Winstanley will aim to build a reputation for House of Fraser as “first to market” with new womenswear brands and products. Last year’s position 37

Caroline Rush

CHIEF EXECUTIVE, BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL

The appointment of Net-a-Porter’s Natalie Massenet as chairman of the British Fashion Council (BFC) may have stolen the headlines in January, but behind the scenes it is long-standing chief executive Caroline Rush and her team that have kept the machine ticking over. Persuading Burberry to bring its menswear show back to London from Milan was Rush’s biggest coup of the year, establishing London Collections: Men as a force to be reckoned with and now an unmissable date in the season. And while London Fashion Week grows in prominence, Rush’s focus on supporting new and up-andcoming talent with schemes such as Newgen, Fashion East and MAN set London apart from its Paris, Milan and New York competitors. In addition, the BFC’s international initiative London Show Rooms, which promotes emerging designers, marked its fifth anniversary this year. Last year’s position 40

NEW ENTRY

Bernd Hake & Stephan Born

SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT FOR EUROPE, MIDDLE EAST, AFRICA AND INDIA, & UK MANAGING DIRECTOR, HUGO BOSS This joint entry reflects the positive impact both Bernd Hake and Stephan Born have had on Hugo Boss’s UK arm.

Hugo Boss Group grew 3% with sales reaching €1.78bn (£1.48m) for the nine months to September 30, up from €1.74bn (£1.45m) last year. Hake, who was succeeded as UK managing director by Born in July following his promotion, was responsible for an 18.2% rise in UK sales to £147.5m for the year to December 21, 2012. Born will continue the roll-out of new stores in 2014, but on a selective basis, slowing the retail growth seen in the last 18 months. His challenge will be how to manage the relationship with some indie stockists, who are not best pleased about Hugo Boss’s retail expansion. Last year’s position 50 (Hake)

Brian Brick

CHIEF EXECUTIVE, MOSS BROS

Brian Brick has continued to propel Moss Bros’s growth in 2013, with online sales soaring 164% from last year following the launch of the company’s new website in January. The addition of a mobile-enabled site in May contributed 8% to etail sales, while a transactional hire website is in the works to go live before the end of the year. The business reported a 1.2% rise in total sales for the six months to July 27, while the group’s operating profit was up 5.4% to £2.2m and EBITDA improved to £4.4m year on year. Brick also continued to roll out the revamp of the Moss stores. Four shops were refitted in the first half of the year, with another 10 to be completed before the end of 2013. Last year’s position 52

Ben Banks & Gino Da Prato

CO-FOUNDERS, FOURMARKETING Founding partners Ben Banks and Gino Da Prato have been the front men of east London-based fashion agency

Fourmarketing since 1997, with fellow director Charles Perez always “the backroom boy”. This year, the business was among six shortlisted at the Drapers Independents Awards in the Fashion Agency or Distributor of the Year category. Fourmarketing didn’t win, but it has had a great year nonetheless. In 2013 Fourmarketing took on premium British label Lot78, for which it now manages the distribution both in the UK and internationally. Furthermore, the agency opened two concessions in Harvey Nichols’ London store for its premium womenswear labels Halston Heritage and Amen. Among its 34 brands, Fourmarketing distributes the mighty Stone Island – the brand everyone wants. Last year’s position 42

Brand Beckham

Victoria Beckham’s eponymous fashion label continues to go from strength to strength. In the company’s results for the year to December 31, 2012, turnover doubled to £15.37m and pre-tax profit rose to £1.43m from a loss of £1.67m the year before. The brand was shortlisted in two categories at the British Fashion Awards: Brand of the Year and the Red Carpet Award. And David hasn’t been letting the side down. He sent pulses racing in February when he ran through the LA streets in his underwear for a campaign promoting his H&M body range. And with 11-year-old Romeo the face of Burberry’s spring 13 campaign, Brand Beckham is an irresistible force. Last year’s position 56 u DECEMBER 7 2013 /

Drapers

THE TOP 100

Philip Day

group ChairMaN aNd Chief exeCutive, ediNburgh WoolleN Mill

Chief exeCutive, sChuh

Until November of this year Philip Day had kept a relatively low profile, but last month he revealed the fruits of his labour. edinburgh Woollen mill, which rescued Peacocks out of administration last year, trebled its pre-tax profits to £56.7m in the year to march 2, with group sales rising 130.7% to £566.7m. Day, whose portfolio also includes Jane Norman and Ponden Home, also plans to open more than 100 stores over the next 18 months. In the first six months of 2013, like-for-like sales across the business rose 5%. Day has also manoeuvred Jane Norman in a new direction. The new collection for spring 14 will focus on separates, denim and a “head-to-toe signature look” and Day is planning to take the fascia into china, Japan, South Korea and India in the next two years. Last year’s position ��

Schuh took home the top accolade at the Drapers Footwear & Accessories Awards 2013, beating off stiff competition from Office, Aldo and clarks to win multiple Footwear retailer of the Year. Throughout the year colin Temple has continued to expand the business, with 18 store openings scheduled before the end of 2013. As part of the retailer’s bid to increase its store portfolio in the south of england, Schuh opened a second Oxford Street store in October, its largest one-floor shop, and announced plans to open a third in 2016. In November Temple said that a new european distribution centre, five times the size of the business’s current warehouse, would open in bathgate, West Lothian, next summer in order to cater for the future expansion of the Schuh store estate and online offering. Last year’s position ��

Christopher Kane

Neil Cliﬀord

Scottish designer christopher Kane received a stamp of endorsement this year from French luxury powerhouse Kering – owner of luxury heavyweights Gucci, balenciaga and Saint Laurent – which snapped up a 51% majority stake in the business. The move will see the christopher Kane label open its first store on London’s mount Street before the end of 2014. but what stood out most, as always with Kane, were his clothes: innovative, creative and unique. His excellent 2013 was topped off on December 2 when he was named the british Fashion council’s Womenswear Designer of the year. Last year’s position �7

Premium footwear retailer Kurt Geiger delivered a solid performance in 2013, with its luxury and online divisions experiencing double-digit growth for the three months to October 5. but its been a difficult year for its US parent company, Jones Group, which had total sales of $3.7bn (£2.26bn) in 2012 but made only $192.5m (£117.8m) ebITDA. Still, Neil clifford’s business is continuing to expand. In April Kurt Geiger signed a deal to begin wholesaling in the US with department store group Nordstrom. The footwear and accessories retailer, which already operates standalone stores in New York, San Francisco and costa mesa, and sells

desigNer

Drapers / December 7 2013

Colin Temple

Chief exeCutive, kurt geiger

through its US website, is targeting $100m (£65.3m) in US sales over the next three years. With industry speculation rife that Jones Group may be broken up imminently, the future certainly looks interesting for clifford. Last year’s position �6

David Reiss

fouNder, reiss

It’s been a challenging year for David reiss with a number of high-profile departures from the business. In February, trading director Gwynn milligan left after just eight months in the role and in march commercial director Sanjay Sharma departed after less than a year. In may, reiss lost another two senior members of the team when ecommerce director Dan Lumb and brand director Andy rogers both stepped down. Despite this, reiss assured the industry the company was “back on track”, and made a number of promotions and hires. However, the combined effect of a high level of senior departures and industry sources indicating 2013 has been a much tougher trading period for the business has resulted in the entrepreneurial east Londoner reiss falling 37 places this year. However, after the retailer’s spring 14 press day, we have high hopes he’ll climb up the ladder again next year. Last year’s position ��

NEW ENTRY

Liz Evans

MaNagiNg direCtor, oasis aNd Warehouse

Liz evans was one of the few women to take a top job in fashion this year when she was named chief executive of Oasis and Warehouse, following a restructure of parent company Aurora Fashions that led to the creation of Fresh channel.

Although the business had its credit insurance reduced in the spring, and revealed plans to slim down its store portfolio shortly afterwards, it has made great strides in both its online and in-store offers. evans will have access to a portion of the £5m in savings created by the restructure and other efficiencies, which she can plough into the business and her plans to build on its international presence. Widely regarded as a product person and with the support of her long-time mentor, Aurora executive chairman Derek Lovelock, the down-to-earth evans, who started her career on the shop floor, is expected to meet her target of generating above-market performance for Oasis and Warehouse in the coming year.

Tom and Ruth Chapman

Co-fouNders aNd JoiNt Chief exeCutives, MatChes

After receiving £20m of investment in 2012, matches started 2013 by appointing a new chief operating officer in February, Ulric Jerome, whose remit includes assisting the retailer on its next stage of omnichannel and international growth. This year the mini-chain launched a magazine and hired a number of editorial staff to support it, including Simon chilvers as style director, former Vogue acting fashion editor Tilly macalister-Smith as fashion features editor, and former Net-a-Porter editor Kate blythe as editorial and content director. However, matches felt the fury of fashion indies in October when it was criticised for offering discounts on new season stock online. Despite this, joint chief executives husband and wife Tom and ruth chapman deserve their ranking for taking a small independent business to where it is today, with 14 stores in London and a website that ships to 195 countries and has 2.5 million visits a month. Last year’s position ��

58 Pink

NEW ENTRY

Pantone might have forecast emerald as the colour of 2013, but it was pink that caught the catwalk and then the high street’s imagination. Previously the preserve of little girls and their barbies, the year got off to a rose-tinted start during the autumn 13 catwalk launches in February, with british designers such as roksanda Ilincic and Simone rocha flying the pink flag. The feminine look filtered down to the high street, with the unforgettable pink coat of the season from marks & Spencer selling out online on its first day. And the trend is not going away for spring 14, with big-name designers such as Prada and burberry all featuring the sugary shade in their collections.

Nicky Dulieu

Chief exeCutive, hobbs

Unafraid to innovate in even the toughest of times, Nicky Dulieu has helped spearhead Hobbs’ growth this year, which resulted in the business winning the Fashion retail business of the Year (under £125m) at the Drapers Awards 2013. Dulieu, who gets up at 5am during the week for a two-hour 45 minutes commute into Hobbs’ London office, has strived for an influx of newness across the chain’s collections and for autumn 13 more than 90% of the range was refreshed. The year has seen continued store revamps. In September Hobbs unveiled its new-look covent Garden flagship, which has been designed to showcase the brand to international franchise partners. International expansion has been a central component to Dulieu’s strategy for the year and during autumn 13 the retailer launched local language websites in Germany, Australia and the US and now delivers to more than 50 countries. Last year’s position 62

NEW ENTRY

Gareth Jones & Alex Baldock

group retail direCtor, & Chief exeCutive, shop direCt

Gareth Jones and Alex baldock can toast a successful year in which the etail business posted its first profit in 10 years. Shop Direct netted £6.6m over the 12 months to June 30, up from a loss of £57.7m during the previous year. baldock was hired in June 2012, replacing last year’s Top 100 entry mark Newton-Jones, while Jones has been instrumental in slimming down the retailer’s fashion portfolio since joining in 2009, focusing his efforts on core fascias Very, Isme and Littlewoods. baldock has said the company will aim to grow Very and continue to plough investment into own brand – the latest launch being Very sub-brand Definitions – as part of its £300m three-year turnaround plan.

Mark Ashton

MaNagiNg direCtor, little Mistress

From petite to plus-size, there seems to be no stopping mark Ashton and his Little mistress team, which picked up the young fashion brand accolades at the Drapers Awards and Drapers Independents Awards this year. Sales success on Very.co.uk has led Ashton to launch a full Little mistress lifestyle range, exclusive to the etailer, comprising footwear, nightwear and lingerie. Petite, curvy, tall and maternity ranges for Little mistress and older sister brand Paper Dolls have also proved to be big hits. And he is busy planning a third young fashion label, Girls on Film, to launch next year. Last year’s position 66

John Dixon & Belinda Earl

exeCutive direCtor for geNeral MerChaNdise, & style direCtor, Marks & speNCer

When m&S chief executive marc bolland announced the appointments of John Dixon and belinda earl last summer, there was a mixed response: some raised an eyebrow at Dixon’s lack of clothing credentials, and a second eyebrow was arched when the industry heard about earl’s two-day week. but the pair have proved they are a force to be reckoned with. Although said to be popular with staff, Dixon has brought some of the rigour he deployed in his time on food to m&S’s struggling general merchandise division, improving quality while by and large maintaining price. earl meanwhile has won over the fashion press – and increasingly, consumers – with her autumn 13 collection that nodded to some of the biggest trends of the year. Last year’s position 70

NON-MOVER

Daniel Rubin

exeCutive ChairMaN, the duNe group

Winner of the best redesign category at Drapers’ PayPal etail Awards 2013, the Dune Group enjoyed a successful launch of its new website this year. Daniel rubin appointed an ecommerce director to oversee and develop the site, which enabled the retailer to offer its full range of in-house and external brands in one place for the first time. rubin also laid bare his US dreams by hiring a boss to lead the group’s new US wholesale division, and revealing plans to launch a dedicated US website and flagship.

NEW ENTRY

JOSÉ NEVES

fouNder, farfetCh

Drapers deputy editor Ana Santi wrote a comment piece at the beginning of the year headlined ‘Is Farfetch the knight in shining armour for indies?’ And according to many, if not quite a white knight, it has certainly opened them up to a new audience online. The business’s success can be put down to founder José Neves’ passion for fashion independents and belief that by trading via an online portal, the sector can compete with the bigger boys. This belief looked all the more certain in march when Farfetch received a $20m (£12.2m) investment from publisher condé Nast International. With new local language sites planned in russia and china in 2014, Neves looks set to realise his ambition of opening up an international market for fashion independents to trade from.

JASON TARRY

Chief exeCutive, ClothiNg, tesCo

This year Tarry set out Tesco’s stall as a serious clothing contender with the launch of a new-look F&F store in West Kensington in October. A hybrid of the Tesco clothing brand’s successful european standalone concept and its Next Generation refurbishment programme, the store has been designed to replicate the feel of shopping on the high street rather than a supermarket. In the year to February 23, UK sales at F&F exceeded £1bn, representing 1.5% of total group turnover, and the good news continued in the second quarter, when F&F’s UK business posted sales growth of 8.6%. Last year’s position 76 u December 7 2013 /

Drapers

THE TOP 100

François-Henri Pinault CHAIRMAN AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE, KERING

A new year, a new name. That’s how François-Henri Pinault began 2013 when he revealed in March that his luxury group PPR would become Kering. He said the brand identity had to be changed in order to bring focus onto the luxury and sports lifestyle divisions, including Saint Laurent, Stella McCartney, Gucci and Alexander McQueen. The rebranding came just after news that Kering had invested in a 51% stake in British designer label Christopher Kane, which it aims to grow into a worldwide luxury label. Kering posted a healthy revenue increase of 3% to €2.5bn (£2bn) for the third quarter of 2013, while its luxury division grew faster at 5.6%. Last year’s position 69

Fiona Lambert & Andrew Moore

BRAND DIRECTOR, GEORGE, & CHIEF MERCHANDISING OFFICER, ASDA

This dynamic duo continued to push George at Asda internationally, with Lambert focusing on product development at George while Moore’s remit encompasses general merchandise for George and Asda. In February, Asda announced it was expanding George into 24 new territories in Europe, with local delivery options via George.com. Offline, George said it would open franchise stores in the United Arab Emirates, Kuwait and Qatar, making it available in a total of 35 countries. In March, George, which sponsors Graduate Fashion Week, launched sub-brand G21 Talent, showcasing five emerging designers. Last year’s position 68 34

Drapers / DECEMBER 7 2013

HIGHEST CLIMBERS NEW ENTRY

The seasonless season The traditional two-season buying model continued to become less relevant this year. First came the rise of the pre-collection, as more designers and brands presented buyers with new opportunities to fill their stores with fresh product. Then came the continued growth of the short-order model, with fast-reactive brands releasing even more collections at more regular intervals. Now many brands drop new collections every month, allowing buyers to buy when they wish. Gone are the days of simple spring and autumn buying patterns.

Mike Shearwood CHIEF EXECUTIVE, KAREN MILLEN

Mike Shearwood, together with Aurora Fashions executive chairman Derek Lovelock, has been busy this year implementing change following the news in March of the restructure of the womenswear business. According to Lovelock, Shearwood is “flying with Karen Millen”, but he has been keeping a low profile, which has done little to quell rumours he is lining up a management buyout of the womenswear retailer. Watch this space for 2014. Last year’s position 15

Ed Burstell

MANAGING DIRECTOR, LIBERTY

Flamboyant American Ed Burstell continues to drive a distinct proposition at Liberty, so it stands apart from other department stores. His ongoing support of young designers and London labels – he picked out Christopher Kane

POSITION

2012

31 Christopher Bailey, chief creative officer, Burberry

2013

26 Michael Ward & Marigay McKee, managing director, & outgoing chief merchant, Harrods

44 Derek Lovelock, executive chairman, Aurora Fashions

43 Alan White, former chief executive, N Brown

38 Julian Dunkerton, chief executive, SuperGroup

76 Jason Tarry, chief executive, clothing, Tesco

97 James Brown, head of clothing, Sainsbury’s Tu

95 Anthony Thompson, chief executive, Fat Face

47 Sebastian Manes, buying and merchandising director, Selfridges 38 17 Barry Bown, chief executive, JD Sports Fashion

as his show of the week at London Fashion Week in February – means Burstell’s brand mix is varied and distinctive. Burstell was a key supporter of new British Fashion Council chairman Natalie Massenet’s new strategy and his appetite for TV – he appeared on The Apprentice last year – continued in 2013, with a programme on the department store airing this month. Last year’s position 60

Joseph Wan

OUTGOING CHIEF EXECUTIVE, HARVEY NICHOLS

Joseph Wan has been a steady pair of hands at Harvey Nichols for more than 20 years, but with Stacey Cartwright looking set to take the reins, his industry influence is clearly on the wane. Nevertheless, it has been a busy year for the luxury department store’s boss. As well as scouring the globe for his own replacement, Wan also dealt with the fallout of fashion director Paula Reed’s exit, which at first was rumoured to be due to her decision to stock real fur, although Wan has since robustly denied this. He has also pushed forward with Harvey Nichols’ plans to launch an own brand, with an announcement for the head of a new team to cover all aspects of that. Last year’s position 51

NEW ENTRY

Michael Kors DESIGNER

Michael Kors was the brand to back this year, with buyers reporting impressive sell-throughs and repeat business. In a phenomenal year, revenues were up 39% year on year to $740.3m (£453m) for the second quarter to September 28. As of September, Michael Kors has a retail portfolio of 477 stores worldwide, including concessions, with the company having opened 83 in the last 12 months. The wholesale side of the business accounts for approximately 47% of the total revenue, and includes 2,215 stockists in the US and 1,034 internationally.

NEW ENTRY

Business rates

The issue of business rates reform gathered pace in 2013. Various groups have conducted research to show just how harsh the current regime is, with data revealing some retailers now pay more in rates than rent, and other evidence claiming that without change a further 20,000 retail businesses could be at risk of failure. Many in the fashion industry will be anticipating the next Budget to see whether their prayers for a more manageable rate have been heard. u

d555.co.uk

SPRING / SUMMER 2014 by the Duke Clothing Co.

the top 100

NEW ENTRY

Mark Maidment & Peter Lawley

chief executive, & chief commerciaL officer, ben Sherman

In the year Ben Sherman celebrated its 50th anniversary, the menswear brand also promoted Mark Maidment (pictured) from creative director to chief executive, replacing Pan Philippou, and appointed Peter Lawley, formerly at Dolce & Gabbana, as chief commercial officer. The duo have been instrumental in Ben Sherman’s recent repositioning into a much sleeker, more premium and trend-led offering. Initiatives led by the pair this year include a presentation as part of London Collections: Men, a celebratory Icons range with the likes of musician Jarvis Cocker and artist brothers Jake and Dinos Chapman designing shirts, and the introduction of new line Duke Street Foundry, celebrating the label’s heritage with the resurrection of classic Ben Sherman pieces all made in England.

founder, haLLett retaiL

chief executive, broWnS

Wendy Hallett

It’s been a busy year for Wendy Hallett and her concessions business Hallett Retail. In February a wholesale arm of its Fuse Fashion Network was launched to attract customers from outside the UK. The purpose-built showroom on London’s Great Titchfield Street exhibits brands in four categories – women’s young fashion, plus-size, contemporary and jewellery and accessories. The business also plans to build a wholesale website and open showrooms overseas. Meanwhile, in July Hallett Retail acquired etailer Stylistpick with the intention of growing the brand mix and combining the two businesses’ ecommerce operations. The deal saw Hallett extending the brand mix it already provided Stylistpick with – including Closet, Cutie and Pippa Dee – to include the remainder of Fuse’s 36 labels. Last year’s position 7�

Adam Fenwick

Fenwick has previously been represented by its chairman Mark Fenwick in the Top 100 and, while still an important and influential figure, we have given the limelight to group managing director Adam Fenwick this year. Adam set about strengthening the group’s senior management teams, appointing a raft of former Selfridges staff, including David Walker-Smith as managing director of Fenwick Bond Street, Adam Kelly as fashion and beauty director at the same store and Richard Sanderson as head of menswear at Bentalls’ Kingston upon Thames store. The effect of these hires should bear fruit next year.

Danish brand house Bestseller, parent to young fashion brands Vero Moda and Jack & Jones, has rounded off a successful 2013 that saw a raft of new sub-brands and a string of store openings. Under Allan Nielsen’s watchful eye, Bestseller’s UK business has continued to boom, doubling turnover in the past three years, and looks set to post a further 30% increase for the current financial year to the end of July. Nielsen credits the growth to a few new retail store openings, with the majority of the rise fuelled by better sales in the company’s existing wholesale accounts.

NEW ENTRY

group managing director, fenWicK

RE-ENTRY

Allan Nielsen

uK and repubLic of ireLand country manager, beStSeLLer

NEW ENTRY

Simon Burstein

Designer retailer Browns is known for its market-leading position in the independent sector and has a reputation for spotting new talent. Simon Burstein has continued to guide its success. This year the retailer, which has five London stores, brought all of its South Molton Street boutiques together when its more directional Browns Focus store moved across the road to number 24, reinforcing its position on the street. In November it took its first step outside of London when it opened a Labels for Less pop-up at Kilver Court Designer Village in Somerset.

NEW ENTRY

Beth Butterwick

chief executive, bonmarchÉ

Under the control of self-described perfectionist Beth Butterwick, big changes are afoot at Bonmarché. The womenswear retailer, which reported turnover of £170m and pre-tax profit of £10.5m for the full year to March 31, 2013, launched on the London Stock Exchange on November 20. The launch price valued the business at £100m – lower than the £110m to £130m Bonmarché originally expected. Bonmarché also signed a deal with the Garden Centre Group to open stores in up to four centres.

NEW ENTRY

Johnnie Boden

founder, boden

On a personal note, Johnnie Boden had a surprising start to the 2013 when he made headlines after his dog Sprout unearthed human remains during a walk through London’s Wormwood

Scrubs Park in February. Luckily on the business front things have been altogether more positive. This year Boden took on two key hires; in July Penny Herriman joined as its first global brand director, followed by Sue MacMillan as ecommerce director in August. Web sales have continued to grow – 90% of revenues are now from online versus 10% from the catalogue – while overseas sales have risen to account for more than 50% of total turnover.

NEW ENTRY

Iain McGeoch

chairman, macKayS StoreS

From its humble beginnings as a pawnbroking business in 1833, Scottish-based Mackay Stores is now one of the UK’s largest family-run fashion chains, with almost 300 stores. However, even a dedicated retail geek might not know its publicity-shy chairman Iain McGeoch, who is one of the richest men in retail, with him and his brother Lennie – who is no longer involved in the business – valued at £132m. While the company, which trades as M&Co, avoids the limelight, it continues to perform in the fiercely competitive value sector, and recently opened three franchise stores in the Middle East.

NON-MOVER

Melissa Potter

chief executive, cLarKS

Clarks continued to strengthen its international foothold with a globally-focused restructuring led by chief executive Melissa Potter. With distribution in more than 100 countries and more than half of its business coming from outside the UK, Potter set up four regional teams in February to focus on product, marketing and supply chain in Europe, Asia Pacific, the Americas and the UK and Republic of Ireland. Clarks also expanded its online presence by making its kids’ u footwear available on Amazon. DECEMBER 7 2013 /

Drapers

the top 100

creative director, Scotch & Soda

chief executive, fat face

chief executive, Jaeger

Eric Bijlsma

Led by Eric Bijlsma, Scotch & Soda opened its third London store, a flagship on Carnaby Street, in August and is primed for further expansion, with Edinburgh, Manchester, Leeds, Birmingham and Cardiff on the agenda. The retail roll-outs, which are taking place around the world from Sydney to Oslo, have been propelled by the brand’s acquisition by an affiliate of private-equity firm Sun Capital Partners in 2011. Meanwhile, the Scotch & Soda brand and sister label Maison Scotch remain strong sellers for stockists, of which Scotch & Soda has 120 in the UK and Republic of Ireland. A men’s suiting line called Scotch Atelier is set to debut for autumn 14, meaning next year looks likely to deliver further growth. Last year’s position 88

NEW ENTRY

Victor Fung

group chairman of fung group and honorary chairman of Li & fung

Victor Fung is probably one of the most influential men you’ve never heard of. As chairman of Fung Group, he heads up a rapidly growing business that has, through subsidiary Trinity, hoovered up a number of UK heritage brands including Gieves & Hawkes in 2012 and as of this year Savile Row tailor Kilgour, with others rumoured to be on the cards. This year Fung Group also set up a joint venture with accessories brand Furla that saw it open more than 100 boutiques in China, and a licensing deal with menswear label Kent & Curwen to take it into the US. That’s before you get into global supply giant Li & Fung, which despite reporting flat year-on-year growth for the first half to turnover of £5.89bn, expects an increase in the second half as a result of the growth in short order. 38

Drapers / DECEMBER 7 2013

Anthony Thompson

Ask a room of industry figures who they think has had an impressive 2013, and you can bet Fat Face’s Anthony Thompson would be a popular answer. When Fat Face took the bold step of turning its back on aggressive discounting at the height of the recession, it was a move widely applauded, but few other retailers followed its lead. However, it seems Thompson’s strategy has paid off. In the 53 weeks to June 2, EBITDA soared 29% to £31.2m with sales climbing 9% to £179m. The retailer has driven up its profitability by increasing the quality of its clothes and by pricing them “honestly”, says Thompson. He has also improved store environments and relaunched Fat Face’s website. The 205-store retailer is now ready for its next phase of growth, with plans to open stores in the US followed by a dedicated transactional website within the next two years. Last year’s position 95

James Brown

head of cLothing, SainSbury’S tu

With Sainsbury’s Tu experiencing growth three times that of the food business (total clothing sales for the quarter to March 16 were up nearly 20% year on year), head of clothing James Brown has risen up the rankings. Brown believes non-food has a significant role in the retailer’s future. At its 70,000 sq ft new concept store in King’s Lynn, 30,000 sq ft is non-food, with clothing dominant. Tu’s collaboration with Gok Wan has been a huge success and in June Sainsbury’s announced it would relaunch Tu in 395 stores with new branding and shopfits. Last year’s position 97

NEW ENTRY

Colin Henry

Colin Henry rose to prominence this summer after he was hired for the top role at Jaeger. His arrival, just months after Stewart Binnie’s surprise departure, marked the beginning of a major shake-up of senior management that saw the departures of chief operating officer Carolyn Springett, brand director Shailina Parti and retail operations director Mike Thompson. This paved the way for several hires, including Liza Webb and Caroline Lee, womenswear director and director of menswear and ecommerce respectively.

NEW ENTRY

Chinese consumers With more than 1.3 billion people and a rapidly growing middle class that is travelling overseas, China’s consumers are big business. Despite a slowdown in the domestic economy, the number of middle-class households is expected to triple to 140 million by 2020. With their insatiable appetite for fashion, Chinese consumers remain firmly on fashion retail’s radar. Huge numbers of Chinese tourists flock to the UK, preferring to buy their luxury goods here and in Europe than at home. And with plans to simplify the UK visa process for Chinese visitors, the number visiting these shores looks certain to rise.

Kate Bostock

chief executive, coaSt

It was a year of two halves for Kate Bostock. The spotlight was on her to see what impact she would have at Asos, having joined from Marks & Spencer in January. But she left in July, noting that “Asos isn’t the right place for me”. Cue some disparaging

remarks about her age from Nick Robertson and general industry muttering about whether she would find a niche of her own post-M&S. By August, however, it was revealed she was taking the top job at Coast. While we are yet to see her imprint on product, Bostock has thrown herself into the business, visiting suppliers, stores and concession partners. Last year’s position 73

NEW ENTRY

Lester Hampson

head of retaiL deveLopment, Land SecuritieS

Lester Hampson was behind the most hotly anticipated opening of 2013 – Trinity Leeds. The 1 million sq ft mall opened in March anchored by Marks & Spencer and the largest John Lewis outside London, and with an impressive 90% of space let. The £400m development received recognition at international property show Mapic in Cannes in November, winning the Best Retail Estate Development in City award.

Stephen Marks

chairman and chief executive, french connection

This year Stephen Marks started to see the fruits of the turnaround plan he instigated in 2012. The structure of French Connection’s collections has been adapted to ensure a better mix of price points, classic womenswear brand Tegan has been dropped and loss-making stores disposed of. These moves have led to improved results and in the six months to July 31, the retailer narrowed pre-tax losses to £6.1m from £6.3m the year before. Across the UK and Europe, retail gross margin improved thanks to a cut in overheads due to four store closures and reduced staff costs. Indies have also praised the enhanced collections. Last year’s position 85 u

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THE TOP 100

NEW ENTRY

William Kim

CHIEF EXECUTIVE, ALL SAINTS

All Saints has had a turbulent few years and the start of 2013 was no diﬀerent. In February, four senior team members left, and it was reported that like-for-like sales had plunged, with sales falling every month in the second half of 2012, down about £10m overall. However, William Kim, who joined in October 2012 from Burberry, is getting it back on track. In August, All Saints snapped up ex-Selfridges director of menswear Anita Barr as global director of product merchandising as well as Beverlie Choa, formerly of Levi’s and Urban Outﬁtters, as global director of retail merchandising.

NEW ENTRY

Millard Drexler

CHAIRMAN AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE, J CREW

Charismatic, old school, pals with Sir Philip Green, Millard ‘Mickey’ Drexler believes product is king. Notably, his product. Drexler’s J Crew, with its quirky collections, is the antidote to what he calls ubiquitous high streets across the world. The US chain ﬁnally arrived in the UK, with a ﬂagship on Regent Street and separate men’s and women’s stores. Queues duly formed but all eyes will be on J Crew over the next few months, particularly with concerns over its higher UK prices.

NEW ENTRY

One Direction BOYBAND

Drapers / DECEMBER 7 2013

Harry, Zayn, Liam, Niall and Louis are five of the most famous boys in the world right now, and with more hit singles and a promotional campaign that saw them go global and crack the US market this year, their influence on the young fashion sector shows no sign of waning – just look at last Christmas’s onesie trend. With a world tour that shifted more than 300,000 tickets in one day and a successful 3D film, One Direction: This Is Us, means the band’s profile is higher than ever. Members of the quintet regularly pop up on the front row of big fashion shows, and when they wear brands like Burberry and Saint Laurent, their 16 million Twitter followers go crazy.

NEW ENTRY

Helmut Schlotterer & Thomas Herter

FOUNDER, & HEAD OF DISTRIBUTION, MARC CAIN

A regular in Drapers Indicator survey of best-selling brands, Marc Cain is a favourite with womenswear independents. Founded by the charming but publicity-shy Helmut Schlotterer in 1973, the German brand sells through 176 standalone stores globally, 309 shop-in-shops and 941 wholesale accounts in 59 countries. Together with a top management team the brand scooped the Premium Fashion Brand of the Year award at the Drapers Independents Awards in November. It expects turnover to rise by nearly 9% to €243m (£205.3m) in the 2013 ﬁnancial year.

96 Rihanna

London Fashion Week in February, the collection launched globally in stores and online in March. Rihanna has shown how a high street retailer can maximise the impact of a celebrity collaboration to drive brand awareness and sales. But don’t mention Topshop to the Bajan songstress. In July, Rihanna won a lawsuit against the retailer, which had used her image on a T-shirt, sparking a debate over the personal image rights of celebrities.

DIRECTOR, JUST CONSULTANCIES

It’s been a busy year for Juls Dawson, who launched his young fashion agency in January 2012. He has been co-ordinating the growth of Just Consultancies, while also tying the knot with his business partner, Stephanie (hence Just). Just Consultancies tripled its showroom space, expanding from 1,000 sq ft to 3,000 sq ft as it moved into two additional floors. The brands Dawson represents, along with the agency’s own menswear brand Friend or Faux, have also expanded. Young fashion brands Native Youth and Bellfield have tripled and doubled in size for autumn 13, and the latter launched a womenswear range for autumn 12. International growth is next on Dawson’s agenda and his team is setting up distributors in four or five undisclosed new overseas markets. Last year’s position ��

NEW ENTRY

Karen Dennison NEW ENTRY

POP STAR

Rihanna’s River Island collaboration has to be one of the most successful this year, picking up the award for Fashion Marketing Campaign of the Year at the Drapers Awards. Debuting at

NEW ENTRY

David Suddens

MANAGING DIRECTOR, DR MARTENS

Juls Dawson

is supported by some of retail’s key players, including Arcadia Group, Marks & Spencer, Next, Tesco and Experian. Big names come to speak to the students – Sir Philip Green did so in October – and student numbers have risen from 200 to 700 over its eight years, with an average 65% ﬁnding jobs in the industry.

PRINCIPAL, FASHION RETAIL ACADEMY As principal of the Fashion Retail Academy (FRA), Karen Dennison is responsible for nurturing a new

wave of talent. The ﬁrst National Skills Academy to open in September 2006, the FRA

The £300m sale of Dr Martens in October has landed David Suddens a spot in the Top 100. The iconic footwear brand was bought by an investment vehicle backed by private equity ﬁrm Permira Funds, which owns brands including Hugo Boss and New Look, following much industry speculation. The deal will see the fashion business continuing its international drive and bolstering its retail portfolio abroad, with a focus on India and the American Midwest. Meanwhile the company also increased its retail footprint in the UK with stores in Brighton, Edinburgh, Newcastle and Milton Keynes.

100

NEW ENTRY

Paula Nickolds

BUYING AND BRAND DIRECTOR, JOHN LEWIS

With nearly 20 years’ service at John Lewis, Paula Nickolds became the retailer’s buying and brand director in September, following the announcement that Peter Ruis was leaving to become chief executive of Jigsaw. Nickolds’ bumped-up portfolio now includes the fashion, home and technology buying teams, on top of marketing, brand development, brand creative, retail design, design studios, visual merchandising and sourcing. Formerly buying director for home, and before that head of product development, Nickolds has had a large part to play in the recent success of John Lewis.

Rankings 2013 last year 1 Paul Marchant, chief executive, Primark 2 2 Nick Robertson, chief executive, Asos 1 3 Lord Wolfson, chief executive, Next 4 4 Mike Ashley, founder, Sports Direct 3 5 Sir Philip Green, owner, Arcadia 6 6 Andy Street, managing director, John Lewis – 7 Christopher Bailey, chief creative officer and chief executive elect, 31 & 8 & Angela Ahrendts, outgoing chief executive, Burberry 8 Pablo Isla, chief executive and chairman, Inditex – 9 Barry Bown, chief executive, JD Sports Fashion 17 10 Sergio Bucher, vice president of fashion for Europe, Amazon – 11 Michael Ward, managing director, Harrods, & Marigay McKee, 26 outgoing chief merchant, Harrods/new president at Saks Fifth Avenue 12 Ray Kelvin, founder and chief executive, Ted Baker 13 13 David Shepherd, chief operating officer for trading, Arcadia 12 14 Christos Angelides, group product director, Next 11 15 Peter Ruis, chief executive, Jigsaw 5 16 Mary Homer, managing director, Topshop 21 17 Michael Sharp, chief executive, Debenhams 9 18 Anne Pitcher, managing director, Selfridges 22 19 Don McCarthy, chairman, & John King, chief executive, House of Fraser 19 20 Marc Bolland, chief executive, Marks & Spencer 20 21 Austerity – 22 The Weston family – 23 Carlos Duarte, UK and Ireland country manager, H&M – 24 Cara Delevingne, model – 25 Brian McCluskey, chief executive, Office 23 26 John Lyttle, chief operating officer, Primark – 27 Julian Dunkerton, chief executive, & James Holder, 38 & – brand and design director, SuperGroup 28 Jane Shepherdson, chief executive, Whistles 27 29 Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief executive, LVMH 25 30 Derek Lovelock, executive chairman, Aurora Fashions 44 31 Alan White, former chief executive, & 43 & – Angela Spindler, chief executive, N Brown 32 Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge 16 33 Andy Rubin, chief executive, Pentland Brands 35 34 Steve Buck, managing director, Barbour 28 35 Takao Kuwahara, UK chief executive, Uniqlo 29 36 Anders Kristiansen, chief executive, New Look – 37 Mary Portas vs Bill Grimsey – 38 Sebastian Manes, buying and merchandising director, Selfridges 47 39 Natalie Massenet, chairman, British Fashion Council 32 and executive chairman, Net-a-Porter 40 Ben Lewis, chief executive, River Island 45 41 The Hargreaves family, owners, Matalan, Nicole Farhi – and Fenn Wright Manson 42 Jane Wilson and Denise Tavernier, directors, – Chiltern Street Studio 43 M-commerce – 44 Sir Paul Smith, designer, Paul Smith 46 45 Allan Winstanley, executive director of womenswear, 37 accessories, beauty and visual, House of Fraser 46 Caroline Rush, chief executive, BFC 40 47 Bernd Hake, senior vice president for Europe, Middle East, 50 & – Africa and India, & Stephan Born, UK managing director, Hugo Boss 48 Brian Brick, chief executive, Moss Bross 52 49 Ben Banks & Gino Da Prato, co-founders, Fourmarketing 42 50 Brand Beckham 56

2013 last year 51 Philip Day, group chairman and chief executive, Edinburgh Woollen Mill 48 52 Christopher Kane, designer 57 53 Colin Temple, chief executive, Schuh 59 54 Neil Clifford, chief executive, Kurt Geiger 36 55 David Reiss, founder, Reiss 18 56 Liz Evans, managing director, Oasis and Warehouse – 57 Tom & Ruth Chapman, co-founders and 54 joint chief executives, Matches 58 Pink – 59 Nicky Dulieu, chief executive, Hobbs 62 60 Gareth Jones, group retail director, & – Alex Baldock, chief executive, Shop Direct 61 Mark Ashton, managing director, Little Mistress 66 62 John Dixon, executive director for general 70 merchandise & Belinda Earl, style director, M&S 63 Daniel Rubin, executive chairman, The Dune Group 63 64 José Neves, founder, Farfetch – 65 Jason Tarry, chief executive, clothing, Tesco 76 66 Francios Henri-Pinault, chairman and chief executive, Kering 69 67 Fiona Lambert, brand director, George at Asda, 68 & Andrew Moore, chief merchandising officer, Asda 68 The seasonless season – 69 Mike Shearwood, chief executive, Karen Millen 15 70 Ed Burstell, managing director, Liberty 60 71 Joseph Wan, outgoing chief executive, Harvey Nichols 51 72 Michael Kors, designer – 73 Business rates – 74 Mark Maidment, chief executive, & Peter Lawley, – chief commercial officer, Ben Sherman 75 Adam Fenwick, group managing director, Fenwick – 76 Wendy Hallett, founder, Hallett Retail 72 77 Allan Nielsen, UK & Republic of Ireland – country manager, Bestseller 78 Simon Burstein, chief executive, Browns – 79 Beth Butterwick, chief executive, Bonmarché – 80 Johnnie Boden, founder, Boden – 81 Iain McGeoch, chairman, Mackays Stores – 82 Melissa Potter, chief executive, Clarks 82 83 Eric Bijlsma, creative director, Scotch & Soda 88 84 Victor Fung, group chairman of Fung Group and – honorary chairman, Li & Fung 85 Anthony Thompson, chief executive, Fat Face 95 86 James Brown, head of clothing, Sainsbury’s Tu 97 87 Colin Henry, chief executive, Jaeger – 88 Chinese consumers – 89 Kate Bostock, chief executive, Coast 73 90 Lester Hampson, head of retail development, Land Securities – 91 Stephen Marks, chairman and chief executive, 85 French Connection 92 William Kim, chief executive, All Saints – 93 Millard Drexler, chairman and chief executive, J Crew – 94 One Direction, boyband – 95 Helmut Schlotterer, founder, & Thomas Herter, – head of distribution, Marc Cain 96 Rihanna, pop star – 97 Juls Dawson, director, Just Consultancies 89 98 Karen Dennison, principal, Fashion Retail Academy – 99 David Suddens, managing director, Dr Martens – 100 Paula Nickolds, buying and brand director, John Lewis – DECEMBER 7 2013 /

Drapers

Spring 14 collectionS

Asos womenswear Catwalk trends continue to be a big influence on Asos’s womenswear. In spring 14 its fashion-focused shoppers will be treated to an array of new silhouettes, including Balenciaga-inspired sculptural dresses that offer a young and modern take on sporty tennis dress styles, scallop-edged backless options and pleat-front midi-length skirts worked in sheer fabrics. High-low hems are a key feature, coming on everything from dresses to tops, and even in this season’s favourite fabric: ripped and frayed denim. Embellished, embroidered, beaded and sequined finishes are sprinkled throughout, while florals are in full bloom, predominately as photo-real prints on matching sets or clashing separates.

Clarks women’s The trend for masculine footwear styles for women is here to stay at Clarks, with brogues and loafers taking precedence next season. Hints of pastel colours such as pink and details including woven leather or cut-outs add a more feminine, modern edge to the styles, which have been inspired by the Clarks archive. Elsewhere, sandals are chunky, with block heels and thick straps. Some heel styles have been heightened this season, broadening the options in the collection.

Drapers / December 7 2013

Highlights of the high street

PART TWO

Retailers are embracing new trends and updating old classics to create something fresh for next season’s shoppers Words by GRAEME MORAN & EMILY NORVAL

Clarks men’s and Originals Cath Kidston

For spring 14 Clarks has updated its men’s classic footwear styles with an array of new fabrics. Canvas, suede and chalky leathers work across casual styles including mid-boots or deck shoes, while mesh and weave details add interest to dressier designs such as derby shoes. Other details include strips of colour added to the soles of classic brogues, while casual styles incorporate cork soles. For the Clarks Originals line, London-based pattern specialist Patternity has created a capsule collaboration, redesigning a desert boot style in two colours.

This season, Cath Kidston has expanded its clothing range from a handful of items to a fuller collection including playsuits, trousers, high-waisted shorts, knitwear and swimwear. The key prints include an illustrated safari theme which comes in a khaki shade across relaxed-fit trousers and a short playsuit. Cath Kidston’s perennial vintage-inspired florals are also present and correct, in deep blues and dusky pinks, while quirky pieces such as a teapot-motif jumper nod to the brand’s British heritage.

F&F womenswear Tesco’s F&F heads to Rio in Brazil for inspiration, with a diverse womenswear collection that manages to hit many spring trends under the umbrella of one original theme. Several key pieces come in white – one of the biggest catwalk trends of the season – including a relaxed-fit sweatshirt and a wide circle midi-skirt with a mesh cut-out trim. On the other side of the spectrum, electric blue works as a base colour, with bright embroidery adding a fun, carnival-like element across tops and accessories. DECEMBER 7 2013 /

Drapers

MAKE THE WORLD TER BETTER WITH A SWEA Wear a festive jumper, donate £1 or more and help save children’s lives.

Photos: Steven Jackson/Save the Children

In partnership with

with

THE STYLE COUNCIL

What brands are agents looking forward to selling for autumn 14?

u Pip Maloney I’m excited to be working with womenswear brands Être Cécile and Reece Hudson for autumn 14. Être Cécile (pictured) is developing its line from T-shirts to include denim, embroidery and knitwear. Also, New York-based Reece Hudson is the new kid on the block in the European handbag world. Matches and Liberty picked the label up for spring 14, so it will be exciting to see the brand’s profile develop.

The panel

PIP MALONEY Sales director at Paper Mache Tiger in London

LAURA BROCKLEBANK Sales manager at The Lacamanda Group in Manchester

HOLLY GISELLE HILDEN Sales manager at Brand Progression in London

t Laura Brocklebank We are enthusiastic about the next Jiggler Lord Berlue collection (pictured) as men’s shirts are having a moment. Paisley, florals and geometric patterns are a focal point, as well as premium quality fabrics and collar details and finishes. Customers are looking for quality shirts with little details that make them special.

u Holly Giselle Hilden I'm excited to be showing Lee 101 (pictured) in the showroom for autumn 14, a brand new to the agency for next season. Lee is also celebrating its 125th anniversary in 2014 so it will be a great year for the brand. We’ll also be launching Museum into the UK. Its collection includes phenomenal men’s outerwear pieces produced in Italy.

JANE WILSON Sales director at Chiltern Street Studio in London

t Jane Wilson We are happy to be working with two womenswear brands new to the UK: Laurence Doligé and Diega, both from Paris. They stood out at the Who’s Next trade show last season. They both push boundaries and produce beautiful, timeless collections. Laurence Doligé (pictured) mixes menswear, glamour and femininity while Diega combines amazing prints and textures.

WANT TO BE PART OF THE STYLE COUNCIL? Visit www.drapersonline.com/stylecouncil to tell us your thoughts on this week’s question

DECEMBER 7 2013 /

Drapers

LONDON N8

TO LET MODERN FULLY FITTED OUT PROCESSING WAREHOUSE/ HEAD OFFICE BUILDING IN LONDON N8 Built in 2008 the property provides 21,683 sq ft over 3 levels. Two storey mezzanine benefitting from a Hangerglide overhead rail system with diamond rack static storage system and incline conveyor system with capacity to store 250,000 units.

Other benefits include… • Circa 6 miles from the West End and the City • Secure yard and parking for 10 vehicles + loading • Up and over loading door • 3 phase power • Showroom and offices with raised access floors • Part air conditioned and gas central heating • Passenger lift • Rent and terms on application.

For further information please contact Paul Quy at Bowyer Bryce Surveyors

020 8370 2539

paul.quy@bowyerbryce.co.uk 187-127_SIL.pdf 1 02/12/2013 16:50:36

CMJ

bowyerbryce.co.uk

With

careers

How I got here Jamie Szulc

Lyle & Scott’s international marketing and social media co-ordinator has a diverse role Interview by JAMES KNOWLES

What does your diary look like today? Full, like most days. We’ve just completed a roll-out of autumn 13 window installations with some of our key global independent partners. In addition, we’re co-ordinating international sales events taking place in Sweden, which is another key area for us. In between all that I have meetings with our media agency and point-of-sale suppliers. What task are you most looking forward to today? Now the windows have gone in, it’s time to start looking at tracking sales and other ways to support the independents. They play a very important role for us so making sure they have everything they need and that our brand message is communicated clearly is essential. Learning of a reorder for a product featured in an independent’s window has just made my day – getting great results so quickly is what makes all the hard work worthwhile. What task do you wish you could postpone? Budget admin, the necessary evil to what I do. When juggling multiple projects from trade shows and social media content, admin is often the last thing on my mind. Luckily I keep a good grasp on it though. I force myself to. How did you get to where you are today? My journey in the industry so far has been a swift one; a lot of hard work and luck have both played important parts. During university I co-founded menswear and lifestyle website The Daily Street with two friends. Off the back of that I landed an internship at PR agency Sane, which then hired me full-time. I loved the company but wanting to go in-house [for a brand] after a couple

of years, I found myself at Fred Perry working in the marketing department. This was a testing time when, after only a few months, the marketing co-ordinator I was assisting moved on and I was left to take the reins. After producing successful campaigns with Offspring, Asos, The Dot to Dot Festival and celebrating the 60th anniversary of Fred Perry I decided I wanted even more of a challenge, so when I heard about the changes to Lyle & Scott and the journey the brand was embarking on, it seemed like the perfect opportunity for me. I decided to take the job and that’s where I find myself today, embracing more responsibility creatively and strategically. What has been your career highlight? I can’t think of just one but there are moments that I’m very proud of which I won’t be forgetting any time soon. They include getting my first credit at Sane, working on Fred Perry’s 60th anniversary, seeing The Daily Street progress to where it is now, and most recently Lyle & Scott’s work at Wool Week in October, where we helped to support the campaign by producing a short film documenting the manufacturing process of our winning jumper design for Wool School [a competition for student designers, with the winners’ designs manufactured by brands and retailers]. Being in complete control of a project from beginning to end has been a great experience and something I’ll be doing more of. How do you see your career progressing? The end goal is to be a director or even a managing director at some stage. I don’t have any career plans in terms of where I want to be by a particular age or year, all I know is that if you work as

Good, successful people respect hard work and can spot it from a mile away and it’s that kind of people you want to be surrounded by hard as possible and make sure you are proud of the work you do, the career path will sort itself out for you. Good, successful people respect hard

cV 2013

UK/international trade marketing/social media and blog co-ordinator, Lyle & Scott

2011

Assistant marketing co-ordinator, Fred Perry

2010

Online account executive, Sane Communications

2008

Co-founder, theDailyStreet.co.uk

2008

Music Management & Artistic Development BA (hons), Buckinghamshire New University

work and can spot it from a mile away and it’s that kind of people you want to be surrounded by. Who is your mentor? I don’t think I have one. However, Steve Monaghan and Ben Grant from Sane and Dylan Ross, currently at Zalando, have all given me sound advice and all three have remained good friends. What advice would you give to someone wanting to follow in your footsteps? Constantly push yourself to be better and do better things. Get thrown into the deep end and work outside of your comfort zone, no matter how much you might not like to. Be ready for admin and spreadsheets and always lead by example. Salaries for this position range from £25,000 to £30,000 (estimate provided by CVUK) If you want to be featured on the Drapers Jobs page, email james.knowles@emap.com DECEMBER 7 2013 /

Drapers

TIME TO

DAZZLE #GETDRESSEDUP

COAST ARE LOOKING FOR NEW TALENT AT ALL LEVELS IN BUYING MERCHANDISING DESIGN VISUAL MERCHANDISING HR

Get in touch, apply today at www.coast-stores.com/careers

/coaststores

Drapers / DECEMBER 7 2013

@Coast_Stores

/coast-stores

DECEMBER 7 2013

Drapers \

APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior HEAD OF SALES - APAC APAC (Asia Pacific) – £80000 - £85000 per annum bonus + Benefits This is a designer brand that has a longstanding history and has become a household name globally due to rapid growth and demand across all regions. They cover Mens, Womens and Kids and so the target market range is varied. Due to expansion, this newly created position has become available to cover the APAC (Asia Pacific) territory and so ideal candidates with have previous background managing relationships internationally.

ASSISTANT GARMENT TECHNOLOGIST – LADIES PREMIUM FASHION LONDON – £20000 – £25000 per annum Our client is an established Womenswear retailer renowned for their use of beautiful fabrics and bright colours. This retail business is highly successful and has a loyal customer following. To support the Senior Technical team we are looking for an Assistant Garment Technologist to assist on all areas of Womenswear. We are keen to hear from experienced Multiproduct Garment Technologist looking for an exciting opportunity!

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2659970’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2659605’

PRODUCTION MANAGER - MERCHANDISING TEAM Leicestershire – £40k - 50k per year + Excellent Salary based upon experience

BRAND COMMUNICATIONS MANAGER (MAT COVER) Near Old Street – Competitive Salary

Our client is a very successful Supplier/Wholesaler and is growing fast, delivering fast fashion jersey garments to the UK High Street. They currently have an opportunity for a Production Manager to Head up their Merchandising team. In this position you will be expected to ensure that all orders are produced on budget and in line with customer requirements as well as managing a small merchandising team and being able to identify issues which could compromise delivery date. You must also monitor supplier performance, working with them to improve and develop quality & lead times for Production and Samples, thereby maximising profitability.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2661305’

Warehouse creates a directional brand experience that is exciting, inspiring and personal to our customer. Warehouse is recognised as a dynamic brand that has continued to evolve both in terms of product offer and customer experience, delivering success both at home in the UK and internationally. Our culture is positive, ambitious and focused and our teams are creative and have pride in the brand. The people that work at Warehouse are passionate and knowledgeable about fashion. We have an exciting opportunity for a Brand Communications Manager (MAT Cover) to join our Press and Marketing team.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2661281’

SENIOR DESIGNER: LADIES WOVENS NORTH WEST – To c£35k depending on experience A fantastic opportunity has arisen for a senior ladies wovens designer to join this thriving design team. You will be required to design commercial, trend focussed ladies woven ranges, attend customer meetings, work to briefs, and liaise with and visit overseas suppliers. Applicants must have previous experience of designing ladies wovens, will be used to working on their own initiative, will have excellent communication skills and will be proficient in using CAD. Previous experience of working with Far Eastern suppliers is also beneficial.

BUYER: LADIESWEAR NORTH WEST – Excellent This is a great opportunity for a talented candidate with ladieswear buying experience to join this thriving company. Coming from a strong buying background the successful candidate will have previous experience of buying ladieswear and will preferably have experience of buying across multi product ranges. Strong skills in range development and sourcing are required along with excellent communication abilities and negotiation skills. This is a rare opportunity to join a fabulous company going from strength to strength.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2661164’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2660302’

APPAREL & ACCESSORIES GRAPHIC DESIGNER LONDON – Excellent Salary based upon experience

LADIESWEAR DESIGNER – CASUAL LIFESTYLE – HERITAGE BRAND GREATER MANCHESTER – c£25,000 per annum Seeking an accomplished ladieswear / teenwear Designer with strong casualwear handwriting. You will be responsible for managing the look of the brand working with internal teams and offshore sources to create cohesive product in line with trends. A superb opportunity to put your stamp on a globally recognized name in fashion.

Our client is looking to recruit a versatile & creative graphic/print designer to work on boys (baby to older boyswear & potentially with crossover onto men’s) for apparel & accessories. They are open to experienced designers from a non-clothing background that have developed prints & graphics from concept/trend/scratch & have also worked with licenses, who want to work in fashion. This is a fantastic opportunity to work with an amazing portfolio of licences including the major studio groups i.e. Disney, Warners, Universal, and DC & Marvel comics and the likes of: Moshi, Angry Birds plus many more. Knowledge & understanding of working with Licenses &/or licensed character design is essential as is highly competent CAD skills i.e. Adobe Creative Suite CS5 (illustrator, photoshop, indesign)

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2659930’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2660423’

Drapers / DECEMBER 7 2013

MANAGER DEVELOPMENT APPAREL CANTON, MASSACHUSETTS – Competitive We are currently looking for a Manager Development Apparel to manage the apparel product development process in support of assigned business unit. Provide effective transition of designs from the prototyping stage through development and into production. Key Responsibilities include: Ownership for entire project management process for assigned products, with an emphasis on quality product development and timely completion of all tasks in accordance with applicable operating calendar. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2661140’

WOMANSWEAR SALES REPRESENTATIVE NATIONWIDE – £ competitive + car + benefits

An exciting opportunity has arisen with this Iconic heritage outerwear brand. To promote and sell to existing accounts nationally in the UK and be responsible for developing and creating new business. Working closely with the Sales Manager you will develop a sales plan for the territory investigating all relevant new clients. We are looking for someone with experience in the luxury womanswear wholesale sales environment with proven results. You will be ambitious, self motivated, results driven and have excellent communication skills to be able to establish solid relationships with customers. The role will involve travel throughout the UK and London showroom with some International trade show attendance required.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2661441’

ART EDITOR LONDON – £Competitive

The NET-A-PORTER Group has since successfully established itself as the world’s pioneering luxury online fashion retailer. Comprising NET-A-PORTER.COM, the global fashion destination for content and commerce, THEOUTNET.COM, the most fashionable fashion outlet, and MRPORTER.COM, the global men’s style destination, these prestigious brands offer an unparalleled shopping experience. With its acclaimed editorial format, curated buy and flawless service to customers, the group is building on its success within the Asia Pacific region by opening offices in Shanghai and Hong Kong, enabling it to deliver even faster service to its rapidly growing customer base. We have a fantastic opportunity for an enthusiastic individual to work within the London editorial team.

REGIONAL VISUAL MERCHANDISER MANCHESTER AND NORTH OF ENGLAND (MATERNITY COVER) We have an exciting opportunity for a Regional Visual Merchandiser to support our mobile Visual Merchandising team covering up to 30 stores in the North West of England. The main stores within the area are Manchester and Liverpool. You will be working with both of our brands, Monsoon and Accessorize, helping to deliver excellent Visual Merchandising standards in our stores. The key focus of this role is to ensure a positive and consistent brand image is promoted through effective visual merchandising to ensure profits are maximised through increased sales in our stores.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2660867’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2661155’

DIGITAL MARKETING COORDINATOR LONDON – £competitive Working as part of UK & Eire brand team, you will be responsible for executing look and feel of the Lee brand across all digital platforms, ensuring full implementation of digital marketing directives from Local & European Head Offices. You will form close relationships with relevant Key Account contacts in order to support & drive business in their on-line “doors”. You will work closely with the EMEA Digital Marketing Manager to ensure delivery of all Digital KPI’s for the Lee brand in the UK & Eire. Ideally you will have 3 years experience in a similar marketing role and a relevant fashion or marketing degree.

ECOMMERCE BUSINESS MANAGER N1, LONDON – Competitive Beyond Retro is seeking an eCommerce Business Manager with creative flair, a passion for vintage and high street fashion and exceptional online business acumen. This is an excellent opportunity for a self starter entrepreneur to take on the challenge of growing the BR eCom team and the overall online business. Not only must you be trend aware and understand Vintage Fashion you must also be able to operate at a high level of business skill with a thorough understanding of eCommerce retailing.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2661429’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2661166’

ASSISTANT MERCHANDISER - MATERNITY COVER LONDON – £Competitive MR PORTER – a dedicated men’s wear site from the NET-APORTER group is the first global shopping destination of its kind. We are looking for a talented Assistant Merchandiser to maximise and capture global sales, through strategic analysis, effective stock management and executing strategic activities in a growing and dynamic business. Ultimately ensuring that we are first in making the latest trends and best designs available to our customers – where ever they are! Reporting to the Merchandiser, the Assistant Merchandiser will manage and report on weekly and monthly trade to maximise and capture global sales and profit by proposing strategic activities.

SENIOR DEVELOPER APPAREL - INNOVATION CANTON, MASSACHUSETTS – Competitive We believe fitness is a way of life… that as humans we were made to move. Movement not only makes your body stronger, it makes you the best possible you…body, mind and spirit. At Reebok, our employees embrace this mission and are encouraged to reach for their fitness goals – as well as their career and personal goals. It’s part of the fabric of who we are and what we stand for. We are currently looking for a Senior Developer Apparel Innovation to manage apparel innovation projects and the apparel product development process for innovative, technical and complex styles from project kick off through to commercialization.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2660845’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2661141’

Drapers \

SERVICES DIRECTORY TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dawn O’Brien 0203 033 2959 dawn.obrien@emap.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR

In Store Products and Services EPOS

E-COMMERCE

etailPR

Proven Fashion E-Commerce Experts

BUY NOW

websites that work 01242 238373 | info@etailpr.com | etailpr.com

GARMENT STANDS KENNETT & LINDSELL LTD EST 1913 Consultants and specialists in the design and manufacture of garment stands for all aspects of clothing production. Design, fitting, standardisation and quality control

Tel: 01708 749732 Fax: 01708 733328 www.kennettlindsell.com sales@kennettlindsell.com

Call 0845 130 3535 or visit: www.toptotoe.com

RETAIL SUPPLIES

Drapers Ads 2012A_Layout 1 30/01/2012

DRAPERS CHRISTMAS WALLPLANNER For advertising and sponsorship opportunities

“We believe that we help retailers serve customers to world class standards”

CONTACT: Dawn O’Brien 0203 033 2959 dawn.obrien@EMAP.com 0800 45 11 22 morplan.com 52

Drapers / DECEMBER 7 2013

t: 0844 544 1108 e: sales@trcepos.co.uk www.trcepos.co.uk

RETAIL SUPPLIES

STEAMERS

HANGERS

By Appointment to Her Majesty The Queen H & L Russel Limited Manufacturers of Garment Hangers

Hangers & Display Products

London Studio 020 8808 8157

T: 01245 253 420 E: sales@cdcuk.com www.cdcuk.com

SWEATSHIRTS

“Decades of specialist hanger experience”

CLOTHING SOFTWARE

Speak with our consultants we can meet all your hanger needs. T: 01268 889000 E: sales@russel.co.uk Hanger specialist: zoer@russel.co.uk www.russel.co.uk

www.drapersonline.com

Multi-channel business systems for the apparel industry Wholesale Retail Internet Selling

Redrose Software Ltd T:

0208 123 8280

www.redrosesoftware.co.uk

Manufacturing GARMENT LABELS

Top quality woven and printed labels + swing tickets Express service for washcare labels (Small orders our speciality with quick delivery) Phone TODAY for our FREE catalogue and information pack Tel: 01484 888844 Fax: 01484 888800 Email abaines@eastman.co.uk Also contact us for:cutting room papers, poly bags, shoulder pads etc www.eastman.co.uk

GARMENT CMT

Garment Manufacturer in Bulgaria

Clothing production factory of womenswear and menswear. Provides reliable, professional & flexible services Specialising in T-shirts, S-shirts, Scarves and Real Leather Belts. Versatile manufacturer, very short lead times. Small and big quantities welcome. Oeko-Tex & Sedex certified. Fabric sourcing and design services available. email: info@sirioustextile.bg’

BUSINESS FOR SALE

CLOTHING MANUFACTURING

Due to retirement, small niche ladies Wear manufacturing business for sale. Incorporating wholesale and a Mail Order business.. Huge potential....

Telephone..01539726775

www.drapersonline.com

PRIVATE LABEL SHIRTS

CMT FACTORY IN LONDON

OVER 25YEARS EXPERIENCE, SPECIALISE IN LADIES COATS/JACKETS, WELL EQUIPPED FACTORY, CAPABLE OF 1500PER WEEK, ARCADIA GROUP APPROVAL, PLEASE CONTACT 0207511 0033 capricorn97@btconnect.com

Woven Labels • Printed Tickets Carrier Bags • Self-Adhesive Labels Ribbon • Gift Boxes • Packaging Tissue Paper • Logo & Label Design T: 020 7249 8260 F: 020 7249 5751

e-mail: sales@adastralabels.com www.adastralabels.com

We have full capabilities of pattern making and grading design cut make and trim in house facilities for embroidery and printing. Please call for details on 07887 643 377. High quality British manufacturer has spare capacity, experienced in patterns and development for top designers. Jersey garments our speciality. Well equipped factory. Tel 07779 961217

Huntley International

Myanmar/Burma granted duty free status by the EU Looking for manufacturing services and would like to take advantage of this new duty free status? Huntley International are a manufacturing company with offices in London, New York, Seoul, Hong Kong and a factory in Myanmar producing ladies/men’s outerwear, suiting and casualwear for major retail companies. Utilising Huntley International will allow you to benefit from these duty free rates, significantly reducing your manufacturing costs.

For more information please contact Howard Lipman or Ronnie Poole: howard@huntley-international.com, ronnie1224@me.com, Tel 0207 739 0551

PRIVATE LABEL & MTM SHIRTS Are you a high-end menswear retailer looking to provide a more tailor-made service? We are the UK’s leading supplier of quality private label, RTW & MTM men’s shirts. We offer low minimums, short-lead times and quality fabric collections.

Contact:

grahamdelve@esquirescollections.com

07966 171370 DECEMBER 7 2013

Drapers \

SERVICES DIRECTORY TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dawn O’Brien 0203 033 2959 dawn.obrien@emap.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR

Fabric & Accessories FASHION FABRICS

TEXTILE WHOLESALE

LININGS

www.theliningcompany.co.uk Fabric importers established in 1958

Importers and wholesalers of Luxury Faux Fur to UK Manufacturing

Carrying a large and varied range of fabrics. Bi-stretch bengaline, suitings, stripes, checks and much more. Contact Paul 0208 447 5905 or 07939111193

www.ambassador-textiles.co.uk info@ambassador-textiles.co.uk

Email gbwpaul@live.co.uk www.gbwholesale.co.uk

Importers, Exporters & Wholesalers of Textile Fabrics For Ladies Fashion Industry. Unit 5, Hayes Metro Centre, Springfield Road, Hayes, Middlesex UB4 0LE

Huma Fabrics

Contact: 07903368616

EMPEE SILK FABRICS LTD, we carry one of the largest selections of fabric in the UK. We carry a huge range of plain and printed Satin, Lace, Organza, Velvet, Foil, Cotton, P/C, Fun fur and many more. All under one roof; 31 Commercial Road, Edmonton, London N18 1TP. Tel: 020 8887 6000 Fax: 020 8887 6045. Email: empee@wholesalefabrics.co.uk Web: www.wholesalefabrics.co.uk Redundant stocks bought for cash.

www.drapersonline.com

JEANS BUTTONS

Email: info@missiontextile.com UK Sales Office: 020 8813 7711

The widest choice of press studs, jeans buttons, jeans rivets, eyelets, popper tape and trouser hooks.

TRIMMINGS 41169 Barnett Lawson Order form.qxd:••

Suppliers of fashion/textile fabrics 37A Skeltons Lane Fabric House Leyton E10 5BT

shop@theliningcompany.co.uk 0844 800 3630

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A fantastic range of over 12,000 items: Braids, buttons, cords, fringes,ORDER fringe curtains, feathers, ﬂowers, insertions, elastics, lace, ribbons, personalised printed ribbons, ric-rac, rigilene, diamanté, pearl & sequin trims, tie-backs, tubular crin, Velcro, bridal trims, millinery supplies and much, much more. If we don’t have it, we can source it! Visit our transformed website! 16/17 Little Portland Street London W1W 8NE T: +44 (0) 20 7636 8591 F: +44 (0) 20 7580 0669 E: info@bltrimmings.com W: www.bltrimmings.com

To MESSRS

Durable Fasteners Ltd. 430 Kingsland Rd, London E8 4AA Tel: 020 7254 6713

ORDER No.

A/C No.

ORDER No. DATE

ARTICLE No.

DESCRIPTION

UNIT PRICE

16-17 Little Portland Street, London W1W 8NE T: 020 7636 8591; F: 020 7580 0669 E: info@bltrimmings.com; W: www.bltrimmings.com

www.durablefasteners.co.uk

Notice board STOCK WANTED

FREELANCE SERVICES

AUTHORISED Registered Office: Sentinel House Sentinel Square Brent Street London NW4 2EP Reg No. 2211489 VAT No. GB 494731613 Directors CI Marx GI Marx

ALL FABRICS BOUGHT from remnants to total bulk clearance, immediate decision and payment.

STOCK WANTED

Contact Mark - 020 8993 1068 or 07836 744376

EARN ££££’s Today

Manufactures/Wholesalers etc We pay MORE for your overstocks as we do not sell your goods on, any quantity Please phone Mr David 0208 736 0088 M: 07836 389 399. Fax 0208 736 0089 or Email buyers@dofg.net

We are the UK’s no.1 buyer of all designer clothing, shoes and accessories.

Mixed bundles, current or past season collections. No minimum / maximum. Stockroom clearance is our speciality Professional, discreet and friendly service with immediate payment & collection to suit you.

buying@fashionwanted.co.uk 01423 872868

www.fashionwanted.co.uk

Highly Skilled Pattern Cutter With 22 yrs experience. Patterns - Samples - Grading Reliable, Friendly, Efficient Service. Tel: Belinda on 01747 822695

ATTN: RETAILERS

www.salvageliquidator.com

WE BUY...WE SELL... • Surplus stock • Late deliveries • Cancelled orders • Clearance lines

caLL noW for immEdiatE action

01923 800074

theoffice@salvageliquidator.com

Pattern Problems? Call Jeff Best. Creative & accurate with vast experience. Tailoring or soft casual. Email: patternman@blueyonder.co.uk. Tel: 0208 886 0494

THE GRADING BUREAU Computer Grading For all your grading and costing needs. Childrens, Ladies and Mens. N11 2LX info@datagraf.co.uk

Tel: 020 8361 1444

www.gradingbureau.com www.drapersonline.com 54

Drapers / DECEMBER 7 2013

DATAGR AF LTD

Very experienced sample machinist of 18 years seeks part time or freelance work. Contact Ann 07979595711

Creative Gerber Pattern Cutting Womenswear and childrenswear 1st patterns, digitising and block making services available

www.Lucy-Jane.com Tel: 0208 314 5723

The Pattern Room LTD

contact Margaret-Ann email: thepatternroom@gmail.com tel: 0758 367 4411

EXPERIENCED HANDS TO MAKE YOUR SAMPLES AND PATTERNS An efficient and reliable service for your sampling needs

www.drapersonline.com

EXPERIENCED QUALITY CONTROLLER

Louise James

Provides reliable, professional & flexible employment as follows: • HOLIDAY COVER • SICKNESS COVER • • MATERNITY COVER • • ADDITIONAL SUPPORT DURING BUSY PERIODS • • UNTIL A PERMANENT ROLE IS FILLED • • FROM 1 DAY TO 6 MONTHS • Tel: 07930 485588 | Email: j1lou@btinternet.com

BUYERS GUIDE TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dawn O’Brien 0203 033 2959 dawn.obrien@emap.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR

Zuppe Clothing Ladieswear Showroom Extensive range of young ladieswear in stock for immediate delivery. Labels stocked: Zuppe, Frock Me Couture, Tilly Tizzaro

and Preppi. Contact Details: 49 Knowsley Street, Manchester, M8 8JF Sales Team – 0161 833 4010 Fax – 0160 833 4090 Email – zuppe@btconnect.com Website – www.zuppeclothing.com/collection DESIGN SOURCING PRODUCTION

LEATHER ACCESSORIES

PRODUCING EXCELLENT, HIGH QUALITY PRODUCTS FOR HIGH STREET RETAILERS Creative in-house Designers working alongside an experienced Quality Control Crew assure the delivery of great products at competitive prices backed up by a very professional Back Office and Administration Team

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION CONTACT ANDREW OWEN ON MOBILE 07757 362969 e-mail info@accessory-heaven.co.uk website www.accessory-heaven.co.uk

DECEMBER 7 2013

Drapers \

MY FASHION LIFE

Madeleine Thompson

The knitwear designer’s label started with a beanie made in Hong Kong and was given a boost by Sienna Miller

Words by GRAEME MORAN

our brand focuses on relaxed, off-duty clothing, so what would we find you wearing on the sofa watching TV? I’d be dressed head-to-toe in my cashmere, of course. I’d probably wear one of my A-line jumper dresses, with a pair of cashmere leggings and some slippers. If it were cold, I’d wear one of my wraps – they’re heavenly. Why is quality cashmere so important to your brand? There is a lot of Chinese-produced yarn in the market and the hand feel of it is inferior to the quality of the Italian product. The massive rise in demand for the cashmere yarn processed in Italy has really put pressure on the Mongolian goat 56

Drapers / DECEMBER 7 2013

herders who produce the fibre, and this demand has become unsustainable. Your brand is stocked by retailers such as Net-a-Porter, My-Wardrobe.com and Selfridges, but where are your favourite places to shop? I’m renovating my house at present and have become obsessed with homewares. I love etailer Korla for geometric fabrics and the wallpaper on offer online at Turner Pocock Cazalet. In terms of clothes I love shopping in independent boutiques: Bernard Boutique in Esher, Surrey, TeaCup in Hampstead and Iris in Queen’s Park, London, are all favourites. You have some celebrity fans – how important is this to you? We sell to two key stores in the US,

among our other stockists: Barneys in New York and Ron Herman in Los Angeles. A lot of celebrities in the US buy our collections from there [such as stylist Rachel Zoe and actress Michelle Monaghan] – and the website goes crazy when they are papped. It has really helped us build our brand awareness and is becoming increasingly important for any brand. What’s next for your business? We are starting to build a presence in China, which is exciting. The possibilities there are endless. Our Japanese stockists are selling the product well and this is a market we are interested in developing further. We are also working on collaborations with both Selfridges and Fortnum & Mason for autumn 14. You used to be a buyer for Lane Crawford and Seibu in Hong Kong, so why did you make the jump to the other side of the fence? I couldn’t find a beanie I liked and got a lady in Hong Kong to knit one for me. People started asking Tasty Madeleines: where to buy it and I got pieces from the her to make some more and spring 14 range sold them direct. Sienna Miller bought one and I was inundated. At that point I made the jump and had the confidence to go at it alone. That was six years ago. What’s the best thing about having your own brand? The relationship you build with stores and their buyers. When you work hard to develop a collaboration with a retailer there is nothing more satisfying than seeing it fly off the shelves. What has been your career highlight so far? The success we are seeing on Net-a-Porter has been phenomenal. Also at [New York trade show] Coterie last season we had a queue out of the booth to write orders, which felt pretty good. If you weren’t working in fashion, what would you be doing? I trained as a lawyer, so I’d potentially be working in law. What was your biggest-ever fashion splurge? I’ve just had a baby and couldn’t resist a beautiful Isabel Marant broderie anglaise dress when I was about seven months pregnant – totally unnecessary but it got me through the last two months. What one fashion trend do you wish would disappear? Shoes that have a wedge that shouldn’t, like trainers and wellies.

MAY 1, 2014

HILTON PARK LANE, LONDON @DrapersFAAwards #DrapersFAAwards

drapersfootwearaccessories.com

Do you have what it takes?

To view the 14 categories available, the criteria and to start your entry visit drapersfootwearaccessories.com FOR ENTRY ENQUIRIES PLEASE CONTACT LUCY TREVOR:

FOR SPONSORSHIP ENQUIRIES PLEASE CONTACT NATALIE HILL:

020 3033 2661 lucy.trevor@EMAP.com

020 3033 4305 natalie.hill@EMAP.com

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