Drapers 27july13 combined by Keely Stocker

JULY 27 2013 ÂŁ6.50 www.drapersonline.com

CLOSE-UP

Why no detail is too small for Denham jeans P18 SHOPWATCH

Acne branches out with its second UK store P22 AUTUMN FABRICS

The best mills from the London Textile Fair P86

STREETWEaR SPRING 14 SPEcIal

weekendoffender.com

THE WEEK Drapers COVER CREDITS: SHIRT, £35, SHORTS £35, BOTH ADIDAS ORIGINALS BLUE COLLECTION

We’re streets ahead with the freshest trends

Telephone House, 69-77 Paul Street, London EC2A 4NQ Tel: 020 3033 2600 Email: drapers@emap.com

EDITORIAL

Editorial Director Eric Musgrave, 020 3033 2759 Deputy Editor Ana Santi, 020 3033 2760 News Editor Catherine Neilan, 020 3033 2771 Senior News Reporter Victoria Gallagher, 020 3033 2861 Reporter Jill Geoghegan, 020 3033 2767 Features Editor James Knowles, 020 3033 2761 Fashion Director Ian Wright, 020 3033 2763 Junior Fashion Editor Graeme Moran, 020 3033 2768 Junior Fashion Writer Emily Norval, 020 3033 2914 Online Editor Keely Stocker, 020 3033 2762 Group Stores Editor John Ryan, 020 3033 2997 Deputy Special Projects Editor David Brooks, 020 3033 2846 Group Art Director Alison Fisher, 020 3033 2764 Group Production Editor Steve Draper, 020 3033 2765 Deputy Production Editor Digby Bodenham, 020 3033 4235 Senior Sub-Editor Alice Hall, 020 3033 4268 Supplements Production Editor Tracey Gardner, 020 3033 2769 Editorial Administrator Nadine McKen, 020 3033 2770 Contributors Simon Adamson, Aisling Megan, Amy Ryall, Alice Trueman, Richard Young

Streetwear dominates this week’s issue, from news to features and of course the fashion shoot, offering our take on the trends for spring 14. This is also a truly international issue, with our shoot, which opens on p33, snapped on the streets of Berlin as the trade shows took place around us. We also travelled to Amsterdam for this week’s Close-Up with Jason Denham, British-born founder and chief executive of the eponymous jeans label (p18). Returning to the UK, premium casualwear brand Acne’s new store in South Kensington provides the location for this week’s Shopwatch. Turn to p22 to see how we think it fares. Meanwhile, our report on the London Textile Fair suggests that autumn 14 will be a season of bright colours, fluffy handles and hairy finishes. While all this has been going on, team Drapers has been visiting the London trade shows and our News section reveals an update on the ever-evolving Stitch, while at Drapersonline.com we have been taking the temperature of Scoop. Enjoy the issue.

COMMERCIAL TEAM

Group Commercial Director James MacLeod, 020 3033 2939 Advertising Manager Julia Jones-Collins, 020 3033 2952 Account Managers Elizabeth Harris, 020 3033 2994 Natalie Hill, 020 3033 4305 Rebecca Soni, 020 3033 2958 Sales Executive Daniel May, 020 3033 2956 Events and Projects Manager Victoria Hart, 020 3033 2961 Clubs Co-ordinator Katie Marcel, 020 3033 2962 Classified Sales Executive Danielle Choyen, 020 3033 2987 Sales & Event Support Executive Rosie Birchenough, 020 3033 2964 Sales Administrator Lizzie Fuller, 020 3033 2696 Production Manager Jo Lambert, 020 3033 2677 Recruitment Advertising Senior Account Manager Peter Bruce-Smyth, 020 3033 2985 Recruitment Sales Executives Freya Lucas, 020 3033 2669 Rebecca Tonkinson, 020 3033 2991 Senior Marketing Manager Nik Dinning, 020 3033 2862

CONTENTS Issue 27.07.13 REGULARS

PUBLISHING

Managing Director Retail Group Richard Breeden, 020 3033 2683 Chief Executive of EMAP Natasha Christie-Miller, 020 3033 2691 PA to Chief Executive of EMAP Clair Sabel, 020 3033 2692 Subscriptions UK £249, UK independent retailers £195. Europe (by airmail) £342, worldwide airmail £356. EMAP Publishing Ltd. For UK subscription queries please call 0844 848 8858. For all other subscription queries please call 01604 828705. Newstrade Distribution Seymour Distribution Ltd. Tel: 020 7396 8095. Origination by F1 Colour, Copperfield St, London SE1. Printed and bound by Headley Brothers, Ashford, Kent, TN24 8HH. ISSN Number: 1479–1617. Drapers is published by EMAP, part of Top Right Group Ltd. © EMAP 2013

2_ News This week’s top stories, including a revamp for Stitch and Pulp’s plans with Sports Direct 8_ Opinion Eric Musgrave, plus Stephen Sidkin, chair of Fox Williams’ fashion law group, and Pulp director Ian Hopkins 12_ Fashion Index Trading figures in the UK, international news and Indie Index 16_ Ecomm Index The latest sales data and stats from the etail market’s big players 84_ Careers Schuh’s southern divisional manager Dean Cowgill 96_ This Fashion Life Louise Young on her plans to refresh trade show Pure London

18 FEATURES 18_ Close-Up

Jason Denham says his surname ensured he would run a jeans label 22_ Shopwatch Acne chooses South Kensington for its second UK standalone STREETWEAR

31_ The Edit Bringing you the strongest streetwear looks for spring 14

32_ Keeping it Real Classic styles dominate this season’s streetwear collections 80_ Brand List Contact details for all the featured brands DIRECTIONS

25_ This Week’s Hero A grungy late summer collection from British brand AKA 26_ The Buzz The weekly round-up of

hot brands and trends, including camouflage and Bermuda shorts 27_ Style Council Our panel of experts give their verdict on the influence of streetwear 28_ Brandwatch Tourne de Transmission has smartened up its offer for spring 14 82_ Autumn 14 Textiles We uncover the best fabrics from The London Textile Fair

Drapers / JULY 27 2013 _ 1

_Catherine Neilan, news editor

News

Director faces jail on VAT fraud charges / Menswear /

Unpaid tax accusations land former Rayner & Sturges director in court as HMRC cracks down on fashion

Drapers / JuLy 27 2013 _ 2

By Eric Musgrave

A director of one of the country’s leading premium shirtmakers is due to appear at the Old Bailey in November on charges of defrauding HM Revenue & Customs (HMRC). Charles Boyd-Bowman, a former director of his family’s firm, Rayner & Sturges, is facing allegations over what Drapers understands to be unpaid VAT of £270,000 relating to the period from July 1, 2008 to December 31, 2011. Charges were brought in February and Boyd-Bowman is due to appear in court on November 12. He has not yet made a plea, although it is thought the six-figure bill has been paid. If found guilty, Boyd-Bowman could face a custodial sentence. The fashion industry has come under new scrutiny from HMRC, which launched taskforces aimed at tackling alleged “tax cheats in the rag trade” last November to recoup up to £9m in unpaid revenue. The case has arisen as BoydBowman’s father and fellow Rayner & Sturges director Robert, one of the best-known exponents of the ‘Made in England’ movement, winds down his business interests. This month he sold the Rayner & Sturges factory in Chard, Somerset, to upmarket British men’s accessories brand Drake’s, which has acquired the Rayner & Sturges order book, the equipment, the factory lease and Cleeve of London, the luxury shirt brand that has been produced there since the late 1950s. Earlier this year, Robert BoydBowman sold another Rayner & Sturges factory near Chatham, Kent, to Mustard Ties, which supplies neckwear to brands such as Jack Wills, John Lewis, Paul Smith, Cordings, Crombie and Acne. The Boyd-Bowmans’ menswear shop

Bowing out: the Alexander Boyd menswear store in London’s Spitalfields closed this week

in Spitalfields, east London, which traded as Alexander Boyd and included a bespoke shirt and tailoring service, closed this week. Robert Boyd-Bowman’s group of limited companies included Rayner & Sturges, Alexander Boyd Bespoke, Alexander Boyd Textiles, Charles Craufurd Holdings, Charles Mortimer and Cleeve Shirtmakers.

Charles Boyd-Bowman, an accountant, was a director of all of these firms apart from Cleeve Shirtmakers, but resigned from all of them between August 2012 and January this year. Robert Boyd-Bowman declined to comment on the HMRC allegations this week, but told Drapers he was not unhappy to pass on his manufacturing businesses to new owners. “I’m 70 years old and it’s time to let someone younger have a go,” he said. “I’m sure they will do a good job and I wish them well.” Since July 2010 Drake’s, which was started in 1977 by Michael Drake and two partners, has been owned by Mark Cho, a Hong Kong-based entrepreneur, with managing director Michael Hill as a minority shareholder. Cho owns The Armoury, one of the best menswear stores in Hong Kong. Drake’s operates its own tie factory in London but since Cho’s investment it has expanded its range from accessories and has opened its first shop just off Savile Row. Around 35 people, headed by factory manager Robert Barker, are employed in Chard. The factory makes shirts for brands such as Ede & Ravenscroft, Crombie and Dunhill with cut, make and trim (CMT) prices starting at about £28. Drake’s plans to build up annual production from its current 25,000 shirts. “We will continue to manufacture private label, both fully factored and CMT, as well as continuing to make bespoke shirts,” Hill said. “Once we have cleaned things up and got the factory working our way, we will be looking for new customers.” Drake’s intends to use the factory for its own shirts, but these will feature the Cleeve name.

/ Streetwear /

Stitch to be replaced by new concept in spring 14 By Eric Musgrave

www.drapersonline.com/ blogs

tK Maxx poaches menswear buyer TK Maxx has hired Colchester department store Williams & Griffin’s menswear buyer Charlie Peel. Peel will join the discount chain as menswear buyer on September 16 and report to head menswear buyer Adrian Edwards. Peel leaves Fenwick-owned Williams & Griffin after 17 years working in the menswear team.

Landlords to get high street voice

Stitch together: eggleston (left) and duffy

He now owns bar chain Lotus Lounge and runs streetwear brand Holy Ghost. His pull in the sector was highlighted by the large contingent of buyers from nine-store premium retailer Cruise who attended Stitch on Tuesday. One, who wished to remain anonymous, told Drapers: “Jacket Required is a great show, but it’s premium level. There is room for another at Stitch’s more accessible level. We should have a decent show in London – we are tired of going to Berlin.” Eggleston said the starting point for the new concept was the show’s new premises – The Old Sorting Office in Holborn, London, which is used for shows during London Fashion Week. “We are committed to being here for at least six seasons,” Eggleston told Drapers.

/ Department stores /

fenwick lures another Selfridges buyer A third senior menswear figure from Selfridges is leaving to join rival department store Fenwick. Richard Sanderson, buying manager of men’s casualwear, bodywear, streetwear and shoes, has resigned to become head of menswear at Bentalls’ Kingston upon Thames store, which is owned by Fenwick. He succeeds John Pattinson, who is retiring in October after 20 years at Bentalls. Sanderson’s exit follows that of menswear buying manager Adam Kelly, who left for Fenwick’s Bond Street branch in London to become fashion and beauty director earlier this month.

News in Brief

Kelly joined his former boss David Walker-Smith, who stepped down as buying and merchandising director for menswear, beauty, home and technology at Selfridges in December to become managing director of Fenwick in Bond Street. Sanderson joined Selfridges in 2000 as buying manager of men’s formalwear and accessories. Before this he was a buyer at Liberty for two years and an apparel development manager at Harrods from 1990 to 1996. Selfridges was unable to confirm whether a replacement for Sanderson would be hired.

New plans to allow landlords to have a greater say in the redevelopment of high streets have gone out to consultation. The proposal, launched by housing minister Mark Prisk on Tuesday, will allow property owners to make formal financial contributions to Business Improvement Districts (BIDs) and have a direct say on local regeneration plans.

royal baby boom for retailers

Babywear is expected to record a 13% uplift in sales following the birth of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge’s boy. Retailers including Marks & Spencer, BHS, Mothercare, Matalan, George at Asda and Very have rolled out royal promotions, while kidswear brands including Rachel Riley (pictured) have created themed collections.

iron fist drops european agent

US streetwear label Iron Fist has dropped Jackson Distributor as its European and Russian agent. Iron Fist owner Black Generation is understood to be forming a new distribution company. However, a spokesman for Jackson Distribution claimed Iron Fist had “breached its distribution agreement” by ending the contract early.

footprints boss makes fresh tracks The owner of defunct kidswear retailer Footprints has launched a new store and is working with former suppliers to repay debts. Beverley Rafferty opened Koast, a womenswear and kidswear shop, on the site of Footprints’ former Haslemere store in Surrey this month. Footprints went into liquidation on July 16 with debts of £273,854.

Drapers / JuLy 27 2013 _ 3

underachieving streetwear show Stitch is being replaced next season with a new concept by founder Brian Duffy and his new business partner Howard Eggleston. Eggleston has taken a minority stake in the business, which is being given a new name and format for the autumn 14 edition. The concept will include menswear and womenswear but will also include ecommerce and SEO firms. Speaking exclusively to Drapers, the pair admitted that Stitch – which held its eighth edition this week – had so far failed to engage with young fashion and streetwear brands and buyers. yet the duo maintained there was a place for a biannual trade event in an area that is currently dominated by Jacket Required. Duffy explained: “Howard is bringing several tiers of support that go beyond his financial involvement. His knowledge of and contacts in the industry will be invaluable. I’m good at logistics and physically building the show. Howard is very good at what might be called the ‘front of house’ parts.” Eggleston has previously been involved with fashion retailers Van Mildert, Strides Menswear and Social Store in the northeast of England.

CroyDon fACelifT CouLd the town’S retAiL fortuneS Be revived By A new weStfieLd?

Designer /

News

Nicole Farhi saviour vows to win back former stockists

Drapers / July 27 2013 _ 4

By Catherine Neilan

Nicole Farhi’s new owner has pledged to meet with both current and former stockists as she looks to win back business for the beleaguered brand. Maxine Hargreaves-Adams bought Nicole Farhi out of administration for an undisclosed sum on Monday, following a weekend of negotiations with administrator Zolfo Cooper. The label entered administration earlier this month, just 18 months after its acquisition from French Connection by Kelso Place. The asset management company had committed to invest £15m in the business over five years. It is the third fashion investment in just over a year for Hargreaves-Adams, daughter of Matalan founder John Hargreaves, after she snapped up womenswear brand Fenn Wright Manson in April 2012 and took a 50% stake in the

Damsel in a Dress brand last month. Hargreaves-Adams told Drapers she had “always been a fan” of Nicole Farhi, and “recognised the opportunity to return it back to its iconic status”. Acknowledging disgruntlement from former stockists – many of whom had dropped the brand in recent seasons – Hargreaves-Adams said she was keen “to provide reassurance of our commitment and belief ”.

‘Nicole Farhi seemed to get overtaken by other, more exciting brands’ Steve Cochrane, owner, Psyche

Speaking to Drapers, retailers have complained that Nicole Farhi’s prices are out of kilter with its quality, with one retailer identifying a failure to innovate and its “pedestrian” collections as reasons for dropping the brand. Hargreaves-Adams said: “We clearly need to address this perception as a high level of design and quality is integral to all our brands.” Creative director Joanna Sykes, who joined from Aquascutum, unveiled her first menswear collection in February. However, it failed to reignite enthusiasm, with one buyer at the time saying her designs “needed a bit more testosterone”. Steve Cochrane, owner of Middlesbrough department store Psyche, dropped the womenswear range following autumn 12. He said: “The brand just seemed to get overtaken by other, more exciting brands. It felt stuck in its ways, and a bit staid. We felt there were better, less pricey alternatives.” But Cochrane said he would “always keep an open mind” and urged the new owner to inject excitement into the designs. The business is now under review, with decisions made by the previous team – including dropping the menswear arm of diffusion line Farhi by Nicole Farhi – set to be evaluated over the coming weeks.

Ecommerce /

New Coggles menswear boss reassures brands By Jill Geoghegan

Etailer The Hut Group has appointed a new head menswear buyer for Coggles, in one of the first hires since it was bought out of administration in May. Ryan Knight joined Coggles this month from boat shoe brand Sperry Top-Sider, where he was territory manager. He previously ran his own independent menswear store Shed in Ashton-under-lyne, Greater Manchester, and has also worked at Selfridges in Manchester and for denim brand lee. In his new role, Knight has spent the first weeks “solely dedicated to meeting with brands to reassure them of the strategy going forward, and the massive opportunities that lie ahead”. He told Drapers: “It’s been an extremely busy time in ensuring that

Rebuilding relationships: Ryan Knight, who is meeting with Coggles’ suppliers to explain its strategy

Coggles launches into the new autumn season with the same impact its consumers will be expecting.” Suppliers have been left uncertain by The Hut Group’s acquisition of Coggles’ brand name, assets and online arm in June in a deal that saw its two bricksand-mortar stores closed and some 60 staff redundancies. Some have raised concerns about the mixing of Coggles’ premium business model with The Hut Group’s volume approach. But Knight was confident his time at Shed would stand him in good stead to woo brands back, saying he had “great relationships” with previous clients. He is expected to report into The Hut Group’s head of buying, lawrie Kemp. The business is set to hire a head womenswear buyer shortly.

Awards /

drapers Indie Awards updated

picture caption style three lines lacking deep please excitement? picturespring caption 14 style three lines menswear

The new Drapers Top Independents awards event, which was due to be held in October, has been renamed, reorganised and rescheduled. The event has been rebranded as the Drapers Independents Awards, moved to later in the year (with the date still to be confirmed) and changed from its original informal reception format. The awards categories have also changed. New categories include Best New Business, Best New Store, Best Independent Multichannel Operator, lifestyle Independent Retailer and lifetime Achievement. Four Brand of the year categories have been added. Occasionwear Offer, lingerie Offer, Footwear Retailer, Best Customer Service Award and International Independent have been dropped. Full details of the changes are listed on www.drapersindependents.co.uk. Drapers’ new editorial director Eric Musgrave – who joined earlier this month – explained: “I was delighted to see that independent retailers had been given their own dedicated awards. But I felt we could make this marvellous celebration of independent fashion retailing even more relevant.”

street cred whaT impaCT aRe sTReeTweaR TRenDs havinG on The wiDeR Fashion maRKeT? see sTyle CounCil on p27

News in Brief Grosvenor secures bigger store

Shirt retailer Grosvenor is relocating from London’s Grosvenor Street to a larger store on Jermyn Street in September. The two-floor, 1,000 sq ft premises is 30% bigger than its predecessor. The retailer is also looking to expand into the Gulf region, China and Russia.

Bikini Fling expands swim range

Premium swimwear brand Bikini Fling (pictured) has introduced one-pieces and cover-ups for spring 14. The brand has “responded to customer demands” for its second season with maxi dresses and silk kaftans. Wholesale prices range from £29.20 to £103.30, with a mark-up of 2.7.

Tee off for charity with Diffusion

Carl Peddie, co-owner of Diffusion, which has six stores in the Midlands, is calling for entries to the third annual charity golf day in aid of Compton Hospice. It will be held at South Staffordshire Golf Club on September 3. Email carl@diffusion.uk.com or donate at www.justgiving.com/diffusiongolf3.

Respected footwear agent dies

Footwear agent Ian Webster died this week after an 18-month battle with cancer. A well-known figure in footwear, he worked for brands including Base London, Rocket Dog and Swear. Notes of condolence may be sent to his parents Jack and Sue Webster at Mulberry, Langley Gardens, Carlisle, CA4 8PS.

Subscribe Quba & Co, the nautical lifestyle retailer, has opened a 2,000 sq ft flagship store on Flore Street in St Ives, Cornwall. The two-storey store is its 13th and stocks womenswear, menswear, sailcloth jackets and bags, and homeware.

To receive your own copy of Drapers every week, plus full access to the website, either call 0844 848 8858 and quote dwhs, or visit www.subscription.co.uk /drapers/dwhs

Drapers / July 27 2013 _ 5

News

/ Young fashion /

Pulp plots growth with Sports Direct’s help logistics, buying and back-of-house so we can focus on growing the business.” Hopkins said he had received a positive reaction from suppliers, although some voiced reservations after past dealings with Sports Direct. Pulp’s offer includes brands such as Amplified, Iron Fist and Criminal Damage, as well as band merchandise, and Hopkins said it was this combination that had attracted the investor. “Sports Direct is interested in expanding into fashion but also sees a future in music-inspired clothing,” he added. “Long term we believe artists will begin to create collections of their own.”

Drapers / JULY 27 2013 _ 6

By Caroline Parry

Young fashion retailer Pulp is expected to significantly increase its store portfolio after selling a majority stake to Sports Direct for an undisclosed sum. Pulp, which has six shops in Edinburgh, Glasgow, Leeds, Liverpool, Manchester and Nottingham, is expected to open tens of new stores following the investment, and will begin scouting for locations in the coming weeks once it has integrated its back-office systems with Sports Direct. Pulp founder Ian Hopkins said he was currently focused on “the basics”, including integrating the IT and introducing footwear. “Sports Direct is really very good at what it does from a retail point of view,” he said. “We can get what we need for

Fashion and music: Pulp stocks band merchandise as well as brands

/ Multiples /

/ Barometer /

Fat Face sales soar ahead of US launch Sales of dresses, shorts and T-shirts are helping Fat Face make a strong start to the current financial year, building on record sales over the past 12 months. The lifestyle retailer this week reported turnover up 9% to £179m for the 53 weeks to June 2, 2013, with EBITDA up 29% to £31.2m. The unaudited results also show online sales soared 27% over the period. Fat Face chief executive Anthony Thompson said good product as well as improved customer service and store environment had paid off. “Having a bright spell has given customers the confidence to invest,” he told Drapers. “There is a lot of summer still to play for but so far, so good.” The 205-store chain has unveiled plans to launch on the US east coast within the next two years, followed by a dedicated transactional US website. Thompson said initial customer research had been positive. “They really appreciated the quality of the product and the casual look, style and fit.” Fat Face also plans to open around 10 UK stores in the next year, which is in line with the previous year.

For more of the latest news on young fashion retailers, visit www.drapersonline.com/news

The latest Deloitte Consumer Tracker showed that consumer confidence has improved by 7%. It recorded a rise in sentiment from -36% at this time in 2012 to -29%, the highest level in two years Sports Direct reported a record-breaking year to April 28, with pre-tax profits up 40% and group revenue topping £2.18bn

Sales of chinos fell 14.9% in the 24 weeks to April 14 compared with the same period last year, according to Kantar Worldpanel

Facing ForwarD How FaT Face’S bId To Reduce dIScounTIng HaS PaId oFF www.drapersonline.com/ blogs

THRILLS

SPILLS

Dolce & Gabbana closed its nine Milan stores last week as a “symbol of disdain” over the pair’s tax evasion conviction. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana were found guilty of tax evasion valued at €400m (£342m) last month

Sales at John Lewis dropped 8.7% in the week to July 13, after good weather “tempted customers” away from stores

KATE BOSTOCK LEAVES AFTER SEVEN MONTHS

HR BOSS MICHELLE EMMERSON LEAVES AFTER TWO YEARS

ASOS DIRECTORS DEPART

SHoPwaTcH can acne’S Second uK SToRe MaKe ITS PReSence FeLT In weaLTHY SouTH KenSIngTon? p22

Kat’s feet: shoes from the spring 14 range

Reality check: clothing ordered online that looks unlike its image could be deemed faulty

/ Consumer rights /

Retailers urged to respond to new consumer law idea By Catherine Neilan

Retailers are being urged to familiarise themselves with the draft of a new Consumer Rights Bill – described as potentially one of the most radical changes to consumer law – before it comes before MPs early this autumn. Government representatives met with trade associations and trading standards groups this week to gauge initial reaction following a draft publication last month. Key among the changes is the introduction of a standard 30-day ‘right to reject’ faulty goods, a move away from the current ‘reasonable period’. Faulty can mean clothing ordered online that does not fit or look like the image.

Michael Weedon, deputy chief executive and communications director of the British Independent Retailers Association (Bira), told Drapers there “were some concerns on the retail side” and that he was “seeking clarification” on key areas, including the language used around the ‘right to reject’ rule. Questions have also been raised over whether the policy could lead to a spike in reshopping, where customers buy and wear items before returning them for a refund. Weedon urged retailers to read the draft, saying: “If people have comments, now is the time to make them.” A final consultation will run until the end of August.

/ Womenswear /

Versatile revamp for Bernshaw range Eveningwear and occasionwear brand Bernshaw has repositioned its collection for spring 14, introducing bright colours, geometric prints and coloured lace. The redesigned collection, aimed at women aged 35 to 50, follows four months of research with stockists and customers. The research found the brand had a strong heritage but had “lost its way”. Bernshaw director Alex Bernstein said it has introduced greater versatility into its offer as a result of the research,

with dresses suitable for day-to-night and appropriate for events such as the races, summer evening parties and weddings. Wholesale prices start at £80 for day dresses, rising to £150 for longer, more glamorous gowns. Bernshaw recommends a mark-up of 2.8. Bernshaw, which was founded by the Bernstein family in 1945, has 100 UK stockists and a further 30 worldwide, including in Singapore, Germany and Australia.

Kat Maconie earns expansion cash Footwear brand Kat Maconie has secured investment from a venture capital fund that includes Next chief executive Lord Wolfson among its investors. It is the first fashion investment made by Pembroke Venture Capital Trust. Wolfson’s brother Andrew is the chief executive. Andrew Wolfson said: “The Pembroke team were all impressed by Kat’s passion, commercial judgement and determination, which have already made her a credible brand in the mid-market shoe business.” Maconie – currently Drapers’ Footwear Designer of the Year and one of our ‘30 Under 30’ – plans to use the investment to expand her main collections, expand the sales and marketing team and relaunch the brand’s website. The brand is available in 16 countries. UK stockists include Selfridges, Harvey Nichols, Anthropologie and etailers Zalando and Nasty Gal. Maconie said: “The investment will enable me to take the business to the next level and I’ve already secured some fantastic introductions via Pembroke’s large network of high-profile contacts.” Pembroke is looking to invest in further small fashion companies which show “entrepreneurial ﬂair”.

‘The investment will enable me to take the business to the next level’ Kat Maconie, footwear designer

Drapers / JULY 27 2013 _ 7

CLIPPER

/ Footwear /

OPINION

Drapers / JULY 27 2013 _ 8

There’s no business like fashion show business

_ Eric Musgrave

have a strange obsession with attending trade fairs. These gatherings of strands of the industry are modern versions of traditional marketplaces. I like to take the temperature of whatever sector is being covered, but this week it seemed the temperature outside was affecting buyer turnout. Like many consumers, some retailers appear to prefer sunbathing to buying clothes and accessories. It was ever thus and it’s no reflection on Scoop that I thought Sunday, the only day I attended, was quieter than expected. Actually it’s helpful to me when buyers are a bit thin on the ground because I can have more time talking to exhibitors. I picked up that things are still tough for retail, but there are some reasons to be cheerful. The late arrival of a proper summer has helped many have good Sales, leaving rails and shelves clean for autumn stock. On the downside, a few agents remarked that many of their independents are still struggling to find an effective solution to the pressures on trading, with the general economic conditions and the rise of online competition the two principal demons. Scoop, as normal, presented itself very well. The addition of a second venue at the Phillips gallery in Victoria meant the original Saatchi Gallery looked a lot less cramped than last season. While having all 400 or so exhibitors in one place would be better, the short taxi ride between the two venues seemed a small inconvenience for a more pleasant presentation. The pristine white walls of Scoop’s venues are totally different to the brutalist concrete building that now houses Stitch, the young fashion and streetwear show, which was my second event of the week. For four years Brian Duffy, the likeable Northern Irishman who

founded Stitch, has struggled to get the engagement of significant brands or numerous buyers in his sector. The fact he is not a fashion industry insider – he successfully ran betting shops and, funnily enough, a stand-building business, before launching his show in spring 2010 – has definitely counted against him. In contrast, Karen Radley, founder of Scoop, and Mark Batista and Craig Ford, the men behind Jacket Required, the highly successful rival to Stitch, are fashion lifers. The new alliance between Howard Eggleston, a well-known retailer and agent, and Duffy, which we report on this week (p3), is interesting and we’ll wait to see what a renamed and repositioned event has to offer in February. There’s certainly room for more than just Jacket Required in a category as large as unisex casualwear, especially given Bread & Butter’s surprisingly rapid decline. Finally, I must apologise to some independent retailers who have entered the new Drapers Top Independents awards. I felt it needed to be refocused to better celebrate the fine work of many independent retailers. I’ve renamed it the Drapers Independents Awards so it has the same status for smaller operators as the Drapers Awards has for much larger concerns. A few categories that were too narrow or are covered by some of Drapers’ other specific awards, such as footwear and etail, have been dropped and replaced. I will contact the entrants affected, but I sincerely apologise for any disappointment. The new event, the later date of which will soon be confirmed, is going to be superb and I look forward to a great turnout by our independent readers and their suppliers, whatever the weather. Drapers editorial director / eric.musgrave@emap.com

WHAT DO YOU THINK OF THIS SEASON’S TRADE SHOWS SO FAR? LET US KNOW BY GOING TO www.drapersonline.com

OPINION

/ Talking Business /

_ Stephen Sidkin

hat brands mean when they say their products were ‘Made in Britain’ has become increasingly important as they look to burnish their home credentials. As far as the law is concerned, the words ‘made in’ mean to manufacture, produce, process or recondition the goods in question. Accordingly, we must ask whether that which took place in Britain resulted in a substantial change to the goods. If it did, the claim ‘Made in Britain’ can be made. Unfortunately, there is little guidance as to what is or is not ‘a substantial change’. There has only been one reported court case, and that took place outside the fashion

industry. But from that ruling it would seem the test is a high one – possibly far higher than brands currently understand it to be. It is also the case that statements of origin are being made that are more specific – a brand being made in London, for example, or even a part of London such as Shoreditch. The issue is important in terms of consumer law as watchdogs look for discrepancies in claims as to origin. But it is even more important that the cachet of ‘Made in Britain’ is preserved and safeguarded. If we do not do so, the whole of Britain’s fashion industry will be worse off. Chair of the Fashion Law Group at Fox Williams

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05 Comments from Drapersonline.com

www.drapersonline.com/ comment

01 ‘Chinos fall out of fashion as denim sales lift’ – Any agent selling for spring 14 that tells you chinos are still ‘really strong’ isn’t going to be taken very seriously Anonymous

02 Until the difficult trading conditions ease, colour will be big as it stimulates trade. Only when all trading is buoyant do we see a return to dull denim, black and white etc... Anonymous

03 ‘My-Wardrobe clears out ‘uncommercial’ brands’ – I think you’ll find it is the labels that have axed My-Wardrobe due to the damage they have caused to brands by constantly discounting their new stock Anonymous

/ Talking Shop /

‘What we’ve learnt in five years of ups and downs’ _ Ian Hopkins

s I sit back with my business partner Stewart Ebbins and reflect on the journey to the recently announced investment deal into our business, Pulp, from Sports Direct, one thing comes to mind: not only did we not do it all ourselves but we are very grateful to both staff and suppliers who took a risk on us. We thank them both. But after nearly five years of ups and downs – of which there have been many – we have learnt several things. The first is that retailers should get their ecommerce sorted from day one. We didn’t, and it cost us dearly; with a good site we have seen sales rise massively by hundreds of per cent a year. Another crucial step is to build a direct relationship with your

customer. We’ve done this via social media and a loyalty card system. This allows us to communicate very cheaply with our customers and drive sales virtually instantly, online and in store. It doesn’t cost as much as you think. Finally, I would advise that retailers keep close to their suppliers. Relationships with suppliers can sometimes be difficult, but they have helped us out of some tough situations and are key for growth. We have in no way done it all, but with Sports Direct on board it has only just started – and so much more is to come. Director of music-inspired fashion retailer Pulp, which has six UK stores

‘ ‘Kate Bostock exits Asos after seven months’ – Another high-profile departure. A mismatch of skills and/or culture maybe? Anonymous

05 Back to M&S then! I think they have missed her Anonymous

Online Poll This week’s poll result Are brands and indies supporting each other enough? YES

16% 84% This week’s question Will the royal baby deliver a sales boom for retailers? www.drapersonline.com

Drapers / JULY 27 2013 _ 11

‘We must be careful to define what “Made in Britain” means’

Fashion INDEX

‘Expanding via the web isn’t always the easy option’ _ Dan Coen

Drapers / JULY 27 2013 _ 12

eports out this week have revealed that River Island is launching a new online advertising campaign as a way of strengthening brand awareness overseas, with a particular focus on the US and Australia. On the face of it this seems like a good idea, as River Island may be able to use this approach to tap into the booming popularity of UK brands abroad. It’s easy to see why fashion retailers would be interested in this kind of strategy, as the payback can be a lot quicker for businesses that focus their efforts on the online channel alone when targeting overseas customers. Geographic penetration will also be much easier to achieve this way, as a retailer would need to open hundreds of stores in the US – and cover vast distances in Australia – to achieve this same level of coverage with a bricks-and-mortar approach. However, those that choose to pursue an online-only strategy overseas should expect some challenges too. Selling what is effectively own-label fashion online is very different from selling books or electronics, for example, as many consumers still want to feel fabrics, see colours and create outfits in the real world, rather than virtually. As such, building a brand online – and in a new market, no less – will require a whole new approach to marketing. Word of mouth, for example, will be vital for building the brand and creating momentum. Social media will therefore need to work alongside high-impact ad campaigns that include everything from billboards and print ads to TV commercials and online promotions. All of these different channels will need to work together to achieve the same crucial goal: creating the buzz that’s needed to drive traffic to the website. Success or failure in this area will ultimately depend on how skilled a given retailer’s marketers are, as after all it isn’t easy to create a strong online brand from scratch. In the UK, consumers can just pop into a shop for a look around and then buy their goods via whatever channel they like. UK-based retailers looking to develop their online presence overseas, however, won’t have this advantage. Instead, they will need to use effective and consistent marketing to build a desirable brand that is strong enough to win over a new nation of customers.

Director, corporate advisory firm Zolfo Cooper

WEEKLY FOOTFALL RETAIL INDEX

National UK footfall figures Week 29 – July 15 to July 21, 2013

+3.4%

-4.3% YEAR-ON-YEAR CHANGE

WEEK-ON-WEEK CHANGE

The daily figures for the earlier part of the week showed a year-on-year decline from 2012. However, as many areas experienced humid but cloudier weather later in the week, Sunday saw a year-on-year increase of 3.7% as consumers headed for the shops. Both Saturday and Sunday showed week-on-week uplifts of 4.15% and 0.73% respectively. Looking to the regions, both the Northeast and Eastern England showed year-on-year increases, with rises of 0.4% and 3.2% respectively.

HIGH STREET SALES TRACKER

Like-for-like sales figures across the high street Week ending July 21, 2013

-3.35% Total fashion

-2.51% Clothing

-15.56% Footwear

The weather once again played havoc on the high street, with sales in negative territory across all three indexes. Across all retail categories, like-for-likes declined at the sharpest rate for three months (-2.94%). For more information, email Don Williams at BDO at don.williams@bdo.co.uk

DRAPERSJOBS.COM

The UK’s employment hot spot and the most popular roles

The most applied for jobs 1. Design 8.4% BRIGHTON 29.6%

2. Production 7.9% 3. Merchandising 6.2% 4. Sales 5.4%

Highest growth location (defined by % increase in traffic to DrapersJobs week on week)

5. Buying 3.9% As a percentage of total applications on DrapersJobs last week

ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATHALIE LEES

/ Talking Trade /

SALES & TRENDS – ONLINE SALES OF CLOTHING, FOOTWEAR AND ACCESSORIES

The online clothing, footwear and accessories market is in growth and propelling the entire market as offline sales decline

£2.49bn

162.3m

Expenditure

Number of units

+16.6% +14.1%

£15.38

-2.1%

Retail sector share £% 24 weeks ending June 9, 2013 versus 2012

2012 2013

20%

Average selling price

ONLINE’S SHARE OF KIDSWEAR

Natasha Shatford, category analyst at Kantar Worldpanel

24 weeks ending June 9, 2013 versus 2012, according to Kantar Worldpanel Fashion

0% ONLINE’S SHARE OF MENSWEAR

The growth in online spend by under-25s

ONLINE’S SHARE OF WOMENSWEAR

The average price of discounted items

+6.7%

ONLINE’S TOTAL SHARE OF FASHION MARKET

+0.4%

The 14.1% growth in online expenditure is predominantly driven by shoppers buying more often

INTERNATIONAL

The five top stories from around the globe ● FOREVER 21 plans to invest £33m in the

Indian market over the next few years to expand its retail operations after having partnered locally with DLF Brands. The young fashion retailer plans to add about 35 stores in India over the next five years.

FRANCE

● VIVARTE, owned by private equity group

USA BALTICS

INDIA

Charterhouse, has confirmed it has breached the terms on €3.43bn (£2.95bn) of loans. According to Marc Lelandais, the French clothing retailer’s head, its ratio of debt to EBITDA has reached 6.3.

● GAP’s value clothing chain, Old Navy, has

SOUTH AFRICA

ended its contract with ad agency CP&B. Old Navy has seen executive changes in its marketing department, with the addition of Ivan Wicksteed as chief marketing officer.

● H&M has signed a lease to open a store in

Mall of Africa in Johannesburg, which is due to open in 2015. The retailer is also working to find a way to open on the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront in Cape Town.

You can never be too early or too late with fashion. You have to be always on time Do Won Chang, founder and chief executive, Forever 21

● INDITEX has extended its franchise

agreements in the Baltic States with Latvia-based Apranga Group until 2016. The collaboration between Apranga and the Spanish fashion began in 2004, when Zara opened its first store in Estonia.

Drapers / JULY 27 2013 _ 13

PRODUCT TRENDS

Indie INDEX

Young fashion week ending July 13 WOMENSWEAR

MENSWEAR

Best-selling brands of the week

Top 10

Top 10 1

French Connection

Fred Perry

Superdry

Jack & Jones

True Religion

Guide London

Ted Baker

Diesel

Sandwich

Guess

Little Mistress

tAkiNGS tHiS WEEk +4.4% year-on-year change

Voi Jeans

Duck and Cover

Diesel

Superdry

Farah Vintage

Joules

G-Star

White Stuff

Luke

Top 5

Best-selling categories of the week 1

Dresses

Tops

Jeans

T-shirts

Shorts

Top 5

£75 AVERAGE SPEND

£10,600 tAkiNGS tHiS WEEk +2.1% year-on-year change

Top 5

Best-selling categories of the week 1

T-shirts

Shorts

Polo shirts

Vests

Jeans

Top 5

£67 AVERAGE SPEND

Brands with the best sell-through

Brands with the best sell-through Week ending July 13, 2013

Glamorous

Superdry

Fred Perry

Diesel

Jack & Jones

French Connection

Luke

Sandwich

Superdry

Top 5

Brands with the best margin 1

Glamorous

Diesel

Sandwich

Soaked In Luxury

Superdry

+0.16% fOOtfAll Change for week ending July 13, 2013 compared with the same week in 2012

Duck and Cover

-2.8%

Top 5

Brands with the best margin 1

Jack & Jones

Duck and Cover

Lyle & Scott

Guide London

Scotch & Soda

INDIE WATCH

-4.58%

AVERAGE MONtHlY tAkiNGS

+24.4%

PROfit MARGiN

fOOtfAll Change for week ending July 13, 2013 compared with the same week in 2012

53 THE bIg NumbEr

Comparative four-week periods (2012 v 2013) for the UK independent retail sector

+11.3%

Week ending July 13, 2013

AVERAGE NuMBER Of uNitS SOlD

Data for June 10 to July 7, 2013, compared with the same period in 2012. Data provided by Top to Toe, fashion industry stock management and EPoS specialists (Top to Toe: 0845 130 3535)

% of young %

fashion indies are not buying into spring 14’s camo trend

ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATHALIE LEES

Drapers / July 27 2013 _ 14

£9,919

ECOMM Index

Insight into sales and shopping behaviour during June ONLINE FASHION VISITORS BY RETAILER

Number of customer visits by retailer category

RETAILERS VISITED BY CATEGORY

ONLINE CONSUMER MARKET OVERVIEW

The top five ecommerce sites visited in June by category including month-by-month % change

Monthly change in % of internet population and fashion shoppers Retailer type

Unique visitors

Multiple

5,995,000

Pure-play

Unique visitors

Asos

1,575,000

-3%

Boohoo.com

774,000

-2%

710,000

-11%

Change

-4%

Pure-play

4,090,000

-7%

Very

Dept store

3,091,000

eBay

693,000

-18%

Sportswear

2,214,000

-2%

Littlewoods

549,000

-12%

Supermarket

1,789,000

-7%

Footwear

1,420,000

Multiples

Unique visitors

Value

874,000

-10%

New Look

1,677,000

Premium

524,000

1,529,000

-7%

Lingerie

425,000

-3%

Matalan

1,299,000

-6%

River Island

1,030,000

-4%

Topshop

964,000

-2%

Premium

Unique visitors

Ralph Lauren

128,000

55%

Lacoste

118,000

-16%

Hugo Boss

62,000

-18%

Gucci

49,000

-11%

Mulberry

44,000

82%

+1%

Total internet browsing population

-1%

Drapers / JULY 27 2013 _ 16

Change

11 Fashion shoppers

REFERRAL SOURCES TO FASHION SITES

THE BIG NUMBER

37%

Portals Shopping Search Direct Email Social networks News and media Other

16%

22%

million

10% 7%

people shopped for fashion online in June

-8%

Unique visitors

Debenhams

1,492,000

-5%

Marks & Spencer

1,296,000

24%

John Lewis

513,000

-3%

BHS

424,000

-11%

House of Fraser

287,000

17%

Footwear

Unique visitors

Clarks

644,000

Office

363,000

30% New Look

46% New Look

26% Topshop 26% River Island

18% Asos 17% Debenhams

43% Asos

21% Boohoo.com 21% Debenhams

eBay

18% New Look

-3%

Schuh

318,000

-14%

Barratts

165,000

-14%

Kurt Geiger

84,000

31% River Island 31% Missguided 31% Topshop

15% Matalan 14% Next

Very

Littlewoods

21% Next

28% Asos

17% Debenhams

26% Debenhams 18% Matalan

Change

29% New Look

27% Next

Change

25%

CROSS-VISITATION BETWEEN TOP FASHION RETAILERS

Boohoo.com

Change

Department stores

Percentage of visitors to one website who visit rival etailers during the same month

Asos

Change

19% New Look 16% Asos 16% Very

INTRODUCING OUR NEW AW13

BRAND AMBASSADOR

LIAM TOOTILL SBTV

CLOSE-UP I Jason Denham

It’s in the

Drapers / JULY 27 2013 _ 18

jeans Jason Denham says his surname ensured his love for jeans “was meant to be”. His focus on detail makes his Denham brand stand out from the crowd Words by emily norval Photography by PhiliP Jintes

here was a subdued atmosphere at Bread & Butter Berlin’s (B&B) spring 14 edition when I visited a few weeks ago. anecdotal reports have indicated that footfall was down around 30% this season, but Jason Denham, founder and chief executive of premium jeans label Denham, tells me it was “the best Bread & Butter show” he’s ever seen for his brand. Certainly, during my visit the Denham stand was bustling throughout the three days. “We had more visitors on day one than in the total three days of the previous show,” says Denham. “The mix of buyers was very high level and very international.” While this may seem out of line with other responses to this season’s B&B, Denham’s report did not surprise me. Visiting the brand’s

stand was the conclusion of my research into the business that started with a trip to amsterdam earlier this year; the Dutch capital is a denim mecca that hosts the european headquarters of the likes of Levi’s and Tommy hilfiger, as well as Denham. When I visited Denham’s hQ, based in a house beside one of the city’s canals, the spring 14 show season was fast approaching, spring 13 stock was about to drop into stores and orders were still being placed for autumn 13. From the taxi driver to the hotel clerk to the owner of the cafe where I had lunch, the locals of amsterdam were keen to tell me how well they know Denham – the man himself, that is. The brand was launched in 2008 and its reputation stems from some serious exposure. It has 120 accounts in the netherlands and three standalone stores in amsterdam – the first opened in 2009 and the most recent is a new concept store that opened in may. however, with 62 UK accounts and one standalone store in shoreditch, east London, Denham, a Yorkshireman, still sees it as a British brand. In total, the brand sells in 22 countries and has about 500 accounts, with the business’s wholesale-to-retail ratio about 70/30. Denham also says that after closing the order books for spring and autumn 13, turnover is projected to hit £15m, up a healthy 36% on the year before. apart from the netherlands and the UK, the most important market in europe is Germany, due to the size of its population and strength of the economy. This makes B&B very important u

Drapers / JULY 27 2013 _ 20

CLOSE-UP I Jason Denham

for the brand, although Denham acknowledges “there are a lot of questions in the market about it at the moment”. “It’s very easy for buyers to come over and say ‘I’ve seen it all before’,” he says. “But it’s up to the brands to make the shows look really cool and exciting.” This ‘it’s up to us’ attitude permeates everything Denham says, as it quickly becomes clear that while his enthusiasm drives the business, it is underlined by a healthy dose of pragmatism. “We started the brand in the recession in 2008,” he explains. “so it means it’s grounded in the reality of how the world is today, and we’ve built it very carefully.” This is unsurprising, given Denham’s career trajectory. having worked for Pepe Jeans London as denim product manager, which brought him to amsterdam 17 years ago, he started his own company in 1998 aged 29, a denim consultancy called Clinic, before setting up his first denim brand, Blue Blood, in 2002. “It was a great project,” he says of Blue Blood. “But it got to a point after six years where we [Denham and business partner steve te Pas] had a different opinion on how to take the brand forward and I decided to leave and start my own signature brand, with my family name.” and what a convenient family name it is; Denham acknowledges his love for denim was “absolutely meant to be”. of its launch, he says: “Denham wasn’t a start-up because I’d already done my own brand and the agency, so I knew exactly what I was doing.” however, the debut store opening in 2009 was his first move into retail. “It was a new experience for me, but from day one I fell in love with it,” he says. the stores are impressive, with denim repair clinics, tailored displays and branding details taken as far as the bollards on the street outside. however, Denham says “wholesale makes a brand”, and so finding a way to translate this vision into independent stores is a priority. “We have a team of people who work on merchandising and a team of builders who put it together,” Denham explains. “everything has to fit the particular store.” This concept has worked brilliantly so far as stockists are concerned. Jo Davies, owner of premium womenswear retailer Black White Denim in Wilmslow, Cheshire, told Drapers: “Denham has invested in merchandising a corner of our store as a Denham store – the stand is fabulous and our sell-through was at 60% very quickly. They are passionate about their brand working for us and they bend over backwards to help us market and sell. This is very rare in my experience.” In terms of market positioning, Denham describes the collection as “Diesel and upwards”. as of last year, the brand repositioned in the UK,

pulling out of accounts including house of Fraser. “We did go into some accounts which were a mistake. We stepped into some stores too quickly and it wasn’t the right time,” he says, explaining a tighter distribution strategy was needed. But this isn’t to say exclusivity is vital. “We want to grow a commercial business and be a competitor. I think it’s wrong to be too precious about saying ‘we’re exclusive’ and we only want to sell in five UK shops.” The brand – whose wholesale prices range from £15 for a basic T-shirt to £296 for top-end outerwear – has sought to align itself with more premium stockists over the past three seasons, with new accounts confirmed for spring 13. mimi noor, owner of the eponymous women’s premium casualwear boutique in Bath, told Drapers: “I was looking for a brand that wasn’t mass-distributed, was a good price and offered something different, certainly in terms of denim. I’d looked at Denham prior to spring 13 but felt it was too masculine and industrial-looking for my customer. however, from spring 13 onwards the brand has done so well in terms of design.”

‘We want to grow a commercial business. I think it’s wrong to be too precious’

It is design, of course, that’s ultimately the key to the brand’s popularity. “The brand is growing very strong in both men’s and women’s, which is rare in jeans brands,” says Denham. This is down to design, as women are “more into fashion and the ‘look’” when it comes to product, he says. Last week, Drapers reported that chinos are seeing a decline in sales, with the popularity of denim on the rise. Denham agrees the tide is turning but that it is “cyclical”. It is women’s denim that is going through a transition, he says. “Women have been wearing skinny jeans as a trend for the last five years, and in the last three years men have been getting into them as a commercial fit. now that is changing in women’s – it’s going much looser into carrot and boyfriend fits. That’s been going on for a couple of years in men’s and now it’s coming in for women’s.” at Denham hQ, head of design Liam maher’s attic room is filled with vintage finds and assorted samples, in an atmosphere of mrs Rochester-like creative madness. he talks me through several pieces, including a second World War paratrooper vest, a hunting jacket and some fireman’s boots, before presenting an entirely new Denham jacket from which details of all three have been taken. It’s hard not to be convinced by the sell, and the ‘details’ theme seems to pervade every aspect of the business. “We keep talking about this line ‘the truth is in the details’’’, Denham says. “We try and think about every element and everything that goes together. The core of everything is the product, but everything else around the product builds the brand. That’s something we’re very strong at.” The brand has a formula that works and there’s certainly something to be learnt from such attention to detail.

10.11.12 september 2013 portello fieramilanocity

fall/winter 2014-15

V edition Textile and Accessory top-end collections for womenswear and menswear

www.milanounica.it

Con il patrocinio di

SHOPWATCH

Acne _

Pelham Street, South Kensington

Drapers / JuLy 27 2013 _ 22

JOHN RYAN is Drapers’ stores editor and has a background in fashion buying. He has covered the sector for more than a decade

t’s almost three years ago to the week that Swedish premium casualwear brand Acne flung open the doors of its London flagship on Dover Street, cheek-by-jowl with Rei Kawakubo’s Dover Street Market. Now it has a second standalone store, but this time it’s an almost entirely different proposition and its location, where ritzy Knightsbridge morphs into South Kensington, tells you all you need to know. This is a store for those who crave the edgy design credentials that characterise this brand, but want a more grown-up version, in keeping with the quiet opulence of this genteel part of west London. Acne in this location reaches out to an almost entirely different demographic from its sister store a mile or two away, and both store design and stock reflect this.

CONCEPT 

‘Industrial meets luxury’ would perhaps be the best shorthand for what has been done in this store. There are steel walls everywhere, which pick up the light from the banks of overhead white neon tubes. This industrial feel is softened through the use of a deep-pile grey carpet and the occasional use of the Acne brand colour – pastel pink. The feeling is one of efficient luxury and the expectation is that prices will be on a par with other stores in this area.

VISUAl MERCHANDISING 

Like the Dover Street store, this Acne branch pursues a doggedly minimalist agenda but does so in a way that is considerably less about objets d’art and rather more about giving the stock space to breathe and letting the store design do

the talking. There are chromed runner rails and a few perimeter side-hanging rails on the ground floor, while downstairs there’s a long table for merchandise and an industrial-looking series of pigeonholes for the jeans display. The standout VM

feature is the screen at the back of the basement, which features a series of hyper-coloured images of people wearing, presumably, Acne clothing. It adds a touch of glamour in the middle of a generally restrained store environment.

THE BASICS address 93 pelham street, london sw7 Opened July 18, 2013 flOOr space 2,289 sq ft across two floors ambience industrial luxury

As a brand, Acne may have something of a rebellious streak about it, but given the prices that are being asked – from £160 for denim and from £850 for leather jackets – this isn’t the kind of offer that is going to sell itself, for the most part. The staff are incredibly friendly, although severely trendy in a way that will probably have you examining what you are wearing and how it measures up. There is much to be said for letting shoppers get on with it until they need help and this balance seemed to be being successfully struck on the day of visiting.

There is a Chanel store next door to Acne in this location. Peruse that offer and suddenly Acne seems astonishing value for money. Stella McCartney is close at hand and Ralph Lauren is only a short walk away. This, in short, is a small pocket of London that oozes cash and Acne will be

Room for improvement 01

there has been little noise about the opening of this store and there should have been more, given its anti-establishment status and the nature of the area into which it is moving. 02

Hard to say this, but perhaps there really should be more denim in this store, as acne comes close to abandoning its roots with this offer. Grown-ups wear denim too. 03

the store is around the corner from the main branded offers in this part of london and may be close to being a mite off-pitch.

COMPETITION  something of a bargain for shoppers familiar with the other retailers and brands operating hereabouts. The real question is whether there is just a little too much edge about this brand for an area that is intrinsically conservative. It does succeed in being one of a kind in the locality, however.

Drapers / JuLy 27 2013 _ 23

SERVICE 

PRODUCT 

Jeans are always a good indicator of the sort of price bracket within which a brand operates and in this store shoppers can purchase a pair of Acne denims for just shy of £200 at the top end. This is pretty reasonable for a premium offer, but the denim range is far

smaller than in the Dover Street store. Instead, there is greater concentration on high-ticket items such as leather jackets and fulllength coats. This is a casual brand in transition to becoming a label that will appeal to a more mature audience.

VERDICT out of step witH its locale

When Acne opened on Dover Street, where fashionistas come in search of Japanese minimalism at the eponymous Dover Street Market, it seemed perfectly in tune with its location. This could not be said of South Kensington, a location where ladies and gentlemen who lunch have multiple options to choose from. Acne has worked hard to tailor its offer to the location, but it is still evident that it sits apart from the bulk of what others are doing in the area. Are the shoppers found in this part of town really 38 50 ready for a brand like Acne?

to see more pictures from this store, go to www.drapersonline.com/news/ shopwatch

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DIRECTIONS

Pointing the way to the most important products, people, stories and shows in fashion right now

Drapers / JULY 27 2013 _ 25

Jersey T-shirts are the foundation of AKA’s offer. Bomber jackets, shirts and sweaters will be added for spring 14

This week’s hero

AKA

Manchester-born streetwear brand AKA launched for spring 13 with a bold range of men’s and women’s T-shirts and vests. One of four short-order collections a year, the late summer 13 range is now available to order for August delivery and is a more comprehensive offer, with bomber jackets, shirts and sweaters added. Projecting a distinctively Northern grunge vibe, it blends distressed finishes and a moody colour palette to create a strong debut collection. Wholesale prices range from £8 to £34. Contact: 0161 238 8504

THE BUZZ ON THE RADAR — Junarose

/ Fashion foreword /

Streetwear gets the totally tropical taste

CATWALKING.COM

Drapers / JULY 27 2013 _ 26

_ Ian Wright

amouflage. If you had to pick one pattern that has underpinned streetwear in recent times, it would be the one borrowed from the military. But it seems the ironic application (wearing something to stand out from the crowd that was intended to make you blend in) of amorphous beige and green splodges has finally been usurped. The tropical trend, although by no means new, has been hotting up ever since Riccardo Tisci adorned his spring 12 menswear collection for Givenchy with dramatic juxtapositions of birds of paradise blooms. And for spring 14 jungle really is massive. It feels like there’s enough critical mass now, as unusual florals, graphic foliage (a nod to the camo of the past), exotic birds and conversational prints of anything from palm trees and coconuts to pineapples and parrots have cropped up in force. There’s a real freshness about the patterns, whether they’re riffing on Tisci’s mirrored juxtapositions or taking a more full-bleed approach to T-shirts, sweats and bomber jackets. So does this suggest men have at last come round to a collective acceptance of florals in general? While menswear has always provided a small bunch of smart floral prints to the more green-fingered guys among us, it’s hardly a trend that has been popular across all types of male shopper. But perhaps as prints are applied to more manly, recognisable and sporty shapes, they will grow on new customers. Florals are already holding their own against camo – as even a brief browse through Asos’s 1,500 or so men’s T-shirts reveals – and once spring 14 drops in store there’s bound to be even more impetus behind the pattern’s growing popularity. Yes, florals for spring may not be a radical womenswear concept, but here’s hoping this becomes an evergreen menswear trend.

Drapers fashion director / Ian.wright@emap.com

Don’t forget! Look out for...

After launching for autumn 13, plus-size womenswear brand Junarose returns for spring 14 with a fresh, trend-led collection. Key pieces include lightweight grey mélange separates, cocoon-shape spring coats and draped T-shirts and jackets. The Bestseller Group-owned brand has already been picked up by Asos, Shop Direct and New Look for autumn 13. Wholesale prices range from £6 to £75. Contact: 07841 561085 www.bestseller.com

/ Trendwatch /

Diesel Black Gold

Christopher Shannon

Lou Dalton

BAGGY BERMUDAS

The spring 14 catwalks marked the return of Bermuda shorts. Sometimes worked as a loose, casual update to the summer suit, the most commercial versions channelled a sporty basketball style.

PURE AND SIMPLE Get a heads-up on some of the key brands showing at Pure London in next week’s preview

Swedish talent to be Re Presented Trade body Business Sweden and sales agent Make Lemonade Agency have collaborated to create Re Present, an initiative aimed at raising the profile of Swedish design talent in the UK. Kicking off during London Fashion Week this September at the ICA, brands such as Minimarket, Dagmar (pictured), Back by Ann-Sofie Back and Altewaisaome will exhibit to buyers and press in a temporary showroom. With plans afoot to take the touring show around the globe, the brands will be hoping the world sees the need for Swedes. www.representshowroom.com

SCOOPED UP Pick up next week’s issue for the lowdown on the top names exhibiting at Scoop

THE STYLE COUNCIL I DIRECTIONS

This week’s panel

MEI CHUNG Menswear buyer at designer store Browns in London

p John Mooney Streetwear is now a huge influence on the fashion market. There has been a marked change in the footwear of choice from a smart shoe or boot to a trainer or running shoe. At Asos, bomber jackets, sweatshirts (Asos, pictured) and T-shirts have seen a significant increase in sales, while Nike is one of our best-selling brands.

u Mei Chung There is a clear rise of the sports luxe trend running through many spring 14 shows. The trend is more chic and luxury than ever before. There has been an increase in sporty bombers, especially reversible ones. There are also a lot of sweatshirts and T-shirts we’ve bought into, for example Saint Laurent and Raf Simons (pictured).

TOM SUMMERFIELD Owner and director of menswear etailer Togs + Clogs

JOHN MOONEY Head of menswear design at young fashion etailer Asos

JACK SCHNEIDER Assistant menswear buyer at young fashion retailer Accent in Leeds

u Tom Summerfield There’s been lots of mesh, nylon and technical fabrics (Christopher Raeburn, pictured) on show that have stood out in what has been quite a similar showing to the previous season. The tag ‘streetwear’ is becoming a little clichéd now though, with many brands diluting their DNA in order to get on the bandwagon.

p Jack Schneider Streetwear with a formal twist has been emerging on the catwalk over the past few seasons. It has become more prevalent recently with technical pieces appearing in showrooms. It is showing on the shopfloor as well, with brands such as Creative Recreation trainers (pictured) selling exceptionally well.

WANT TO BE PART OF THE STYLE COUNCIL? Visit www.drapersonline.com/stylecouncil to tell us your thoughts on this week’s question

Drapers / JULY 27 2013 _ 27

Is streetwear influencing the wider fashion market?

DIRECTIONS I BRANDWATCH

the spring 14 footwear range is the result of a collaboration with hudson

Drapers / JULy 27 2013 _ 28

on-trend bomber jackets come in new transitional jersey

Tourne de Transmission

This London-based label is smartening up its act yet staying true to its streetwear roots, writes GRAEME MORAN THE BASICS Wholesale prices £20.40 to £166.40 Website www.tournedetransmission.com contact 020 7613 5109

tarting life in late 2011 as a capsule collection of four printed T-shirts, London label Tourne de Transmission has grown and evolved quickly, with spring 14 its strongest range to date. Focusing on streetwear-inspired cuts and a smartened-up casualwear style, bold hand-printed graphics and patterns are at the core of each collection, tying into the trend for all things printed and patterned that promises to continue into next summer. This season the brand’s signature monochrome palette sees black and white teamed with panels of mint green and cream, alongside a distorted bird print and a polka dot-inspired bacteria pattern. New styles such as a bomber jacket worked in jersey and an oversized short-sleeve baseball

sweater enhance the streetwear edge, while a new bomber jacket in luxe, on-trend suede, a classic cotton mac and a sleek footwear collaboration with Hudson all lend a more finessed, smartened-up look. “I felt the need to show we can do more grown-up pieces but still fit these styles into our vision,” says creative director Graeme Gaughan. And buyers have been backing the brand’s evolving new direction, with taste-making stockists including Berlin’s Soto, Storm in Copenhagen and Hypebeast online, as well as Cruise, The Allotment and Stylecreep in the UK. Jim Phillips, co-founder of online stockist The Great Divide, says: “We liked the combination of text and prints on the shirts, as well as the interesting wash and dye techniques, and felt the brand offered something new.” With plans to expand accessories and introduce knitwear to the previously jerseybased collection, Tourne de Transmission is clearly tuned in to what shoppers want.

NEED A HELPING HAND?

We may be able to provide a grant to help your children reach their full potential. If you work in fashion retail or textiles and need some help, visit www.ftct.org.uk or call us in confidence on 020 7170 4117

educational grants

help with special needs

welfare essentials

support for special talents

mobility

course equipment Registered charity: 257136 Established 1853

RETaIL NEvER TasTED sO gOOD NeW OperaTOrS exciTiNg meNuS & OfferS LaTeST TreNdS NeW fOrmaTS ShOW cOOkiNg Looking for inspiration? Just stroll down the streetscape of our brand new, innovative Food & Leisure Village. Meet an exciting range of up and coming operators and established brands who want to talk to you about food service and leisure space for the future... it’s the perfect chance to share property needs and expansion plans. Just make sure you leave enough time to stop for a break at our fabulous food theatre, where chefs, operators and specialists will showcase their skills throughout the day.

CONFERENCE London Olympia

& EXHIBITION LONDON 2013

Weds 11 – Thurs 12 September 2013

The retail property event where the biggest names shop around

www.bcsc.org.uk/showcase or call 0845 270 0775

THE EDIT Drapers / JULY 27 2013 _ 31

Streetwear spring 14

Shirt, A Question Of, £85; shorts, Brooklyn We Go Hard, £44

Introduction by Ian Wright

It’s the city that hosted one of the most emotionally charged street parties ever (remember David Hasselhoff on the wall?), so where better to get to grips with what’s going on with streetwear than Berlin, the location of our latest shoot. Where once there was only Bread & Butter and Premium, now there’s a whole buffet of impressive trade shows. At Capsule, Seek and Bright, as well as the two older shows, we scoured the stands to bring you the sharpest streetwear brands and trends in our bumper story, which you’ll find over the page. This season the most noticeable development is how the sector has taken a real, honest, classic streetwear stance and laced it with a subtle, more grown-up, almost menswear slant. The sector is all the better for it – the pieces we found looked strong as they benefited from the refinement menswear provides and the edginess of old-school streetwear. Streetwear has found its charm again, largely replacing tacky ‘saucy’ graphics of semi-naked women with witty slogans, fabrics with greater heft and silhouettes with more attitude. It’s nothing radical but it feels like it more accurately reflects where it was born: the streets. u

Drapers / July 27 2013 _ 32

Keeping it REAL

Simple, straightforward streetwear dominates spring 14 as classic styles shine through Photography by Lydia garnett Fashion director ian Wright Junior fashion editor graeme moran Junior fashion writer emiLy norvaL

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 33

This page Sweatshirt £25, shorts £23, both Original Penguin Opposite page Jacket Pop Boutique, £11; jumper Pepe Jeans London, £22; jeans Lee, £32; ring model’s own

This page Dress Lacoste Live, £42.40; ring model’s own Opposite page Jacket Boxfresh, £52; shorts Luke, £21.50

Drapers / July 27 2013 _ 35

Drapers / July 27 2013 _ 36

Jacket Fly53, £28; T-shirt Franklin & Marshall, £14; jeans Farah Vintage, £20; trainers Vans, £23.50

WWW.ETOJEANS.CO.UK - SALES@ETOJEANS.CO.UK - +441254 664547

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 38

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 39 This page T-shirt Criminal Damage, £12; jeans 55DSL, £37.26 Opposite page Jacket (men’s) Addict, £40; leggings Emu Australia, £29

Drapers / July 27 2013 _ 41

Sweatshirt Collective Noun, £28; T-shirt Criminal Damage, £12; shorts Quiksilver, £22

Drapers / July 27 2013 _ 42

Vest Criminal Damage, £10; jeans Prey of London, £37

PEARLY-KING.COM | FACEBOOK.COM/PEARLYKINGJEANS | TWITTER.COM/PEARLYKINGJEANS TEL: +44 (0) 845 869 8719 | EMAIL: sales@pearly-king.com

This page Jacket K-Way, £72; T-shirt Lee, £14; shorts Quiksilver, £22 Opposite page T-shirt £16.67, shorts £13.33, both Two Square

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 45

Drapers / July 27 2013 _ 46

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 47 This page Sweatshirt DC, £15.20; shorts Fresh Ego Kid, £24 Opposite page Jacket £55.56, T-shirt £20.37, both Category A by Weekend Offender

Wholesale UK: info@gcshowroom.co.uk 020 7739 9988

Drapers / July 27 2013 _ 49 Sweatshirt £22, shorts £18, trainers £24, all Supremebeing

Drapers / July 27 2013 _ 50

This page Sweatshirt Collective Noun, £28; polo shirt Lyle & Scott, £24; sweatpants Fresh Ego Kid, £28 Opposite page Jacket, £66, shorts, £27, both Lightning Bolt; T-shirt Kommon Universe, £13

Drapers / July 27 2013 _ 52

Jacket (men’s) AKA, £34; playsuit Lashes, £17.85; shoes Converse, £POA; socks model’s own

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 53

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 54

This page Hat Original Penguin, £10; T-shirt Duck and Cover, £25 Opposite page Vest 55DSL, £19.61; shorts Pop Boutique, £7; shoes Bucketfeet, £21.75

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 55

This page Jacket £77, shorts £30, both Blood Brother; vest Kommon Universe, £11 Opposite page Vest £9, shorts £15, both Voi Jeans

Sweatshirt Fresh Ego Kid, £20; dress Pop Boutique, £9.50; jewellery model’s own

Drapers / July 27 2013 _ 58

CMY

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 60

This page Coat (men’s) Farah Vintage, £48; top Criminal Damage, £10; jeans Lee, £38 Opposite page Jacket Collective Noun, £66; T-shirt Illustrated People, £18

Drapers / July 27 2013 _ 61

QUOTE EDRA2 AND SAVE THE £20 ENTRANCE FEE

Drapers / July 27 2013 _ 63

Sweatshirt Franklin & Marshall, £24; shirt Farah Vintage, £22; shorts O'Neill, £20.85

Drapers / July 27 2013 _ 64

Cardigan UCLA, £23; shirt DC, £19.20; shorts Farah Vintage, £20

This page Sweatshirt Brooklyn We Go Hard, £46; shirt Farah Vintage, £22; shorts New Love Club, £15; trainers model’s own Opposite page Playsuit Adidas Originals Blue Collection, £41

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 67

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 68

This page T-shirt Fly53, £8.80 Opposite page Shirt Lazy Oaf, £23.55; jeans 55DSL, £37.26

Drapers / July 27 2013 _ 70

Jacket Alpha Industries, £40; T-shirt Kommon Universe, £13

November 21, 2013 Marriott Grosvenor Square, London W1K 6JP United Kingdom

UNLOCK INTERNATIONAL GROWTH OPPORTUNITIES CHAIRED BY Eric Musgrave, Editorial Director, Drapers

CONFIRMED SPEAKERS INCLUDE  S imon Taylor, Head of International Franchise,

New Look

 M ark Dunhill, International Director, TM Lewin  J osé Neves, Founder and CEO, Farfetch

@fashionsummit #DRA2013

T 020 3033 2777 E will.fowler@emap.com W fashionsummit.co.uk Co Sponsored by

KEY HIGHLIGHTS FOR 2013  Network with like-minded professionals focusing on international expansion from across the fashion retail sector: you will have the chance to meet international fashion experts, question them face-toface on international expansion strategies and build your black book.  Learn first-hand how leading fashion retailers are expanding internationally with exclusive case studies on key growth areas China, US and Russia: you will learn how to navigate your way through major PEST (political, economical, social, technological) challenges in each of these markets, enabling you to successfully drive your business forwards.  Sharpen up your international business development strategy by hearing latest economic insights and assessing which major trends are set to influence the world of fashion.  Get a deeper understanding of which markets to pursue, which routes to entry to select and how to deploy talent to stay ahead of the game by understanding your opportunities and limitations.

Join us on

Please quote DFS-A06 when making your booking.

 The event will spark conversation, incite collaboration and explore the latest market developments in the fashion industry.

PARTNER WITH US Call Julia Jones-Collins on 020 3033 2952 or email julia.jones-collins@EMAP.com

EXCLUSIVE PREVIEW RATE NOW AVAILABLE BOOK YOUR PLACE TODAY AND SAVE £250

This page T-shirt £24, shorts £31, both Kidda by Christopher Shannon Opposite page Jacket (men’s) Criminal Damage, £24; shirt (men’s) AKA, £18; jeans Hilfiger Denim, from £20

Drapers / July 27 2013 _ 74

Jacket Pearly King, ÂŁ43; vest Majestic Athletic, ÂŁ14

This page Jacket £32, shorts £20, both Supremebeing Opposite page T-shirt £22, shorts £26, both Ashley Marc Hovelle

Drapers / July 27 2013 _ 77

Drapers / July 20 2013 _ 78

This page Shirt £30, shorts £23, both Franks Opposite page Sweatshirt A Question Of, £70; jeans Lazy Oaf, £25.50; sunglasses Kaibosh, £29 Hair and make-up Kerrie Ann Murphy at Nude Models Anatol and Nadja at Izaio, Phillip and Loreta at M4 Fashion assistants Aisling Megan, Amy Ryall & Alice Trueman Special thanks to the team at Capsule in Berlin

DIRECTIONS I THE EDIT

Drapers / july 27 2013 _ 80

Brand list # 55DSL 020 7520 7700 www.55dsl.com A A Question Of 00 45 31 32 23 22 www.aquestionof.net Addict 020 7428 9427 www.addict.co.uk Adidas Originals Blue Collection 0161 930 2381 www.adidas.com AKA 01612 379818 www.alsoknownasaka.com Alpha Industries 01869 366580 www.alphaindustries.de Ashley Marc Hovelle 07912 548107 www.ashleymarchovelle.com B Blood Brother 020 7729 5005 www.blood-brother.co.uk Boxfresh 020 8371 7554 www.boxfresh.co.uk Brooklyn We Go Hard 00 33 6 60 50 50 51 www.bwgh.fr Bucketfeet 01873 855379 www.bucketfeet.com C Category A by Weekend Offender 01332 342068 www.weekendoffender.com Collective Noun 07919 358283 www.cn-london.com Converse 0800 032 0950 www.converse.com Criminal Damage 020 7247 0089 www.criminaldamage.co.uk D DC 020 7392 4020 www.dcshoes.com Duck and Cover 020 8453 1668 www.duckandcover.co.uk

Vest Criminal Damage, £9; sweatpants Fresh Ego Kid, £28; jacket Original Penguin, £25

E Emu Australia 020 7713 2080 www.emuaustralia.com F Farah Vintage 020 7291 7630 www.farah.co.uk Fly53 07918 630762 www.fly53.com Franklin & Marshall 020 7488 1380 www.franklinandmarshall.com Franks 07920 811059 www.franksaustralia.com Fresh Ego Kid 07831 680058 www.freshegokid.com H Hilfiger Denim 020 3144 0900 www.tommy.com I Illustrated People 020 3411 7341 www.illustratedpeople.com

K Kaibosh 00 47 57 98 88 89 www.kaibosh.com Kidda by Christopher Shannon 020 3411 7341 www.christophershannon.co.uk Kommon Universe 0161 236 6122 K-Way 01250 876914 www.k-way.co.uk L Lacoste Live 020 7439 2213 www.lacoste.com Lashes 020 8809 4432 www.lashesoflondon.com Lazy Oaf 020 7354 2500 www.lazyoaf.com Lee 0845 600 8383 eu.lee.com

Lightning Bolt 01872 553911 www.lightningbolt.eu.com Luke 01869 366580 www.luke1977.com Lyle & Scott 0844 244 7000 www.lyleandscott.com M Majestic Athletic 020 7428 1802 www.majesticathletic.com N New Love Club 020 3627 0451 www.newloveclub.co.uk O O’Neill 01243 673666 www.oneill.com Original Penguin 020 7580 5838 www.originalpenguin.co.uk P Pearly King 0845 869 8719 www.pearly-king.com Pepe Jeans London 020 7408 4008 www.pepejeans.com Pop Boutique 01704 834403 www.pop-boutique.com Prey of London 020 7488 1380 www.preyoflondon.com Q Quiksilver 020 7392 4020 www.quiksilver.co.uk S Supremebeing 01223 873359 www.supremebeing.com T Two Square 00 61 2 8668 4983 www.twosquareclothing.com U UCLA 01923 234555 www.uclaclothing.com V Vans 020 8846 8267 www.vans.co.uk Voi Jeans 01772 562288 www.voijeans.com

ADVERTORIAL BRITISH FOOTWEAR ASSOCIATION

Foot bridge: promoting British talent (main pic); the BFA stand at FN Platform in Las Vegas (below right and centre)

Sole Support

The BFA is helping footwear brands connect with international markets through its trade show grants

s the UK footwear market becomes increasingly challenging, it is imperative that UK brands look overseas as part of their growth strategy. Industry body the British Footwear Association (BFA) acts as the primary link between UK footwear brands and some of the world’s biggest trade shows, taking a growing number of brands to these shows each season. Kicking off with FN Platform at Magic in Las Vegas (August 19-21), followed by GDS in Düsseldorf (September 11-13), Micam in Milan (September 15-18) and concluding with Sole Commerce in New York (September 17-19), the BFA has developed an innovative range of marketing activities aimed at promoting the British footwear brands showing their collections at these prestigious events. The association works hand-in-hand with government body UK Trade & Investment (UKTI) to identify the best overseas events for the sector and secure and maximise grants to support UK footwear companies, assisting them with the cost of attending these exhibitions. Heather Whittle, co-founder of ethical footwear brand Beyond Skin, explains: “The

BFA helped us to attend FN Platform at Magic in Vegas last season, which then enabled us to connect with a US distributor.” The BFA operates dedicated British Edition stands at FN Platform, Micam and Sole Commerce, giving visitors key information on all of the UK brands exhibiting their collections. It also runs dedicated British Edition microsites as part of the BFA’s own website for each event, offering information about each brand in the BFA group. As part of this service, the BFA also has an active social media presence and sends out marketing e-shots with news about the brands.

Add to this dedicated PR support surrounding the shows, and the organisation really does offer the complete package for footwear brands wanting to capitalise on export opportunities. John Saunders, sales and marketing director at BFA, says: “It is now established BFA strategy to support FN Platform at Magic, GDS, Micam and Sole Commerce with a range of focused marketing activities targeting international buyers, agents and distributors. Our aim is to ‘prime the pumps’ ahead of each show to ensure maximum interest in British footwear.” Brands already on board with the BFA at these shows include Base London, French Sole, Beyond Skin, Esska, Julian Hakes and Kat Maconie, and all are reporting great results. Mark Husted, sales director at men’s footwear brand Base London, adds: “The BFA is a great help with preparation and visibility at trade shows. They are always on hand to give advice and they create a buzz around the British brands, which is really helpful.” To talk to the BFA about opportunities at forthcoming and future international trade shows, please contact John Saunders – john.saunders@ britishfootwearassociation.co.uk

DIRECTIONS I textiles autumn 14

Twelve

Drapers / July 27 2013 _ 82

Italian mill Twelve showed at The London Textile Fair for the first time this season, offering a mix of new styles and reworked bestsellers. Key emerging trends include hairy surfaces and furry brush yarns, lighter tweed-look cotton jersey/wool blends and the continued dominance of doublefaced surfaces. Colourful oversized checks, ethnic geometrics in a dark palette and a diffused, abstract camouflage all catch the eye. Contact: 00 39 347 6131027

The London Textile Fair Words by GRAEME MORAN

n the midst of the summer heatwave, the autumn 14 season kicked off last week at the london textile Fair, where mills revealed their latest collections. the two-day exhibition drew large crowds of designers, buyers and product developers to the Business Design Centre in islington. early trends suggest a season of bright colour, fluffy handles and hairy finishes, alongside the prominence of blended compositions that balance quality with competitive pricing.

vannerS

Suffolk silk weaver Vanners offered something fresh this season, introducing compositions to appeal to more mid-range customers. New options include cotton, polyester, and nylon and silk blends, alongside signature 100% silks. Uplifting sparks of colour update classic florals for autumn 14, with a three-colour multi-jacquard blending polyester (32%), wool (48%) and silk (20%) standing out. Contact: 01787 372396 www.vanners.com

For more mills, trends and pictures from The London Textile Fair, go to www.drapersonline.com

Molloy & SonS Based in Ardara, on the northwest coast of Ireland, Molloy & Sons has been weaving premium Donegal tweeds since the 1800s. The fatherand-son team source everything from within a 20-mile radius of the mill, with yarns spun and dyed locally and everything else done in-house. A merino and mohair blend is new for autumn 14, while herringbones and punchy colour combos dominate. Contact: 00 353 87 670 9253 www.molloyandsons.com

SUNDAY 1ST - TUESDAY 3RD

LEFT-FIELD FASHION, FOOTWEAR, ACCESSORIES & LIFESTYLE COLLECTIONS FROM AROUND OUR PLANET. N a t ion a l H a ll, O ly m p ia, H am m e r sm ith R o a d , L o n d o n , W 1 4 Trad e Bu yer s On l y E x h i b it in g In f or m a t ion p le a se c on t a ct ca r o le .h u n te r @ lo n d o n e d g e .co m o r te l + 4 4 ( 0 ) 1 1 6 2 8 9 8 2 4 9

CAREERS I CLIMBING THE LADDER

How I got here _ Dean Cowgill Schuh’s southern divisional manager looks back on his 18 years at the footwear retailer

_ PB Drapers // JULY JULY27 27 2013 2013 _ Drapers 84

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What does your diary look like today? The first job of the day is always to check the sales figures and emails, and then it’s on the road to one of my stores to pay a visit. Today is Swansea. The morning consists of a catch-up with the team, then the store manager, having looked over operational standards and discussed service standards and objectives. I’ll also be speaking on the phone to other stores in the region and to regional managers to discuss a whole range of topics, from broadband issues to vacancies. In the afternoon I’ll conduct an appraisal on a store manager, check a few more emails and the current day’s figures, and then I’ll be on the road once again – this time to the airport, to catch a flight to head office ahead of our monthly retail operations meeting. What event are you most looking forward to today? I always look forward to appraisals. This is because it’s great to spend quality time with one of your store’s managers, discussing their needs and successes and setting their

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development objectives for the year ahead. What event do you wish you could postpone? If I could postpone any event today then it would have to be going to the airport – airports drive me crazy. How did you get to where you are today? I joined Schuh 18 years ago as a trainee manager and within less than a year I had my own store in Leicester. As the business grew, so did the opportunities and after 10 years and as many stores, I was promoted to regional manager, a post I held for six years. Then towards the end of last year I was promoted to southern division manager. What has been your career highlight? There are many, but my recent promotion is by far the biggest career highlight so far. It’s a huge responsibility and requires a great deal of travel, but it is also an opportunity to play an active role in the development of the wider store operations, our customer service proposition and the development of our people, all of which have been key elements in our success.

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CV 2012 Divisional manager, Schuh 2006 Regional manager, Schuh 1995 Store manager, Schuh 1995 Trainee manager, Schuh

➝ If you could change one

thing about your career path, what would it be? I honestly wouldn’t change anything about my career path so far. I feel you become who you are through the experiences you have. What’s the best piece of advice they’ve given you? One of the best pieces of advice was ‘In business if you stand still you go backwards’. I believe that’s a great philosophy, as it demands you question what you are doing and whether there is a better way.

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➝ How do you see your career

progressing? My priority is to be the best divisional manager I can be and to make a meaningful contribution to the business. The rest will take care of itself. What advice would you give to someone wanting to follow in your footsteps? There are no shortcuts. This job requires a lot of commitment and hard work, but it is extremely rewarding to be involved in the growth of a great business that invests in its people and is passionate about the product and service it offers. Salaries for this position range from £70,000 to £80,000, depending on the size of the business (estimate by CVUK)

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If you want to be featured on the Drapers Jobs page, email james.knowles@emap.com

1 8

The UK’s leading specialist retail recruitment consultancy.

Buying & Merchandising Technical, Production & Sales Design Digital & Marketing Retail Operations International successapppointments.co.uk

APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior

A technical qualification and good relevant experience in a similar role are essential. Knowledge of performance sport clothing is an advantage. If you possess the skills and commitment required to be part of a dedicated team, please write to us with your CV and details of your current renumeration package. Applications should be addressed to: The Product Development & Buying Manager, Glenmuir Limited, Delves Road, Lanark, Scotland ML11 9DX

Due to continued expansion, Trespass International, Ski and Sportswear specialists, wish to recruit an experienced Designer to join their existing team. The Company operates from their prestigious Office/Warehouse/Design complex on the south side of Glasgow City Centre. • Creative flair, along with the ability to spot fashion trends before they happen are the most important skills for this post. • You must also have experience of design software, preferably within a clothing environment. • Key responsibilities will be to push the Trespass brand to the leading edge of young fashion. • Experience in liaising with overseas factories would be advantageous. Please write detailing your current remuneration package and enclosing your CV to:Carol McIlroy, Trespass International, 149 Vermont Street, Kinning Park, Glasgow G41 1LU. Email: cmcilroy@trespass.co.uk

GHOST Amazing Opportunity

RetailJewellerjobs.com is the No. 1 site to start your search for the perfect job in jewellery. Whether you are just starting your career or are an experienced jewellery professional, we will have the right jewellery job for you. Please visit www.retailjewellerjobs.com for the latest opportunities in the Jewellery and watch industries.

Senior Designer

A unique opportunity for the right candidate to design for this romantic and iconic brand, using its garment dye heritage. Essentials: Experienced designer who is empathetic with the Ghost feminine handwriting. Experience of range planning and who can work across a broad range of fabrics. Positive attitude and looking for a challenge. Team Management, excellent communication skills, excellent attention to details, enthusiastic, highly-motivated and highly creative. G host is an equal oppor tunity employer. To apply for any of the roles adver tised email your CV and covering letter to: hr@hawesandcurtis.com

To advertise in this section please CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com

_ 85

Working closely with our Product Development & Buying Manager and Quality Control Team, you will play a leading role in the establishment and policing of our quality standards. You will advise on all technical issues, including fabric and colour but in particular size specifications and grading. You will establish product specification sheets and will assess incoming prototype and production samples.

Specialising in menswear and skiwear

JULY 27 2013

Glenmuir is a leading supplier of branded golf and leisurewear to the International golf and retail markets. The above position is based in our Lanark Head Office and covers both our Glenmuir and Sunderland brands. Our current product range and company details can be seen on www.glenmuir.co.uk & www.glenmuir.com.

OUTDOORWEAR DESIGNER

Drapers /

GARMENT TECHNOLOGIST

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08/11/2011

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09:44

Drapers /

JULY 27 2013

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We recruit for the following opportunities:

NEED A HELPING HAND? Are changes at home affecting your child’s education? Do you need a helping hand to support your child’s special needs? A small grant from the Fashion & Textile Children’s Trust can make a big difference. For more information on how to apply please visit www.ftct.org.uk or call us in confidence on 020 7170 4117

educational grants

help with special needs

FTCT is the only charity that supports the children of families who work in the fashion and textile industry.

welfare essentials

mobility

Registered charity: 257136

We’re the biggest fashion retailer you’ve probably never heard of. And we’d love to hear from you. Shop Direct is one of the UK’s leading online retailers. Our digital department stores include Very.co.uk, Littlewoods and isme and we have a growing number of own-brand fashion labels, from Definitions and Love Label to Savoir, South and Ladybird. We sell more than three dresses every minute and have five million customers. And big name brands? Well, we stock over 800 of them! So if the thought of working in fashion makes your heart beat that little bit faster, go online at www.shopdirectcareers.com to find out more.

www.very.co.uk www.littlewoods.com www.isme.com

mobile | tablet | desktop

Visit our careers site today www.shopdirectcareers.com

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Drapersjobs.com has a chic look making the search for your perfect fashion job easy and enjoyable.

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Looking to recruit? Drapersjobs.com is also the perfect place to make your next fashion industry hire Call +44 (0)20 3033 2991 or +44 (0)20 3033 2985 Email Rebecca.Tonkinson@emap.com or Peter.Bruce-Smythe@emap.com

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APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com

ALTERATIONS WORKROOM MANAGER LONDON – £Competitive We carry out alterations to over 45,000 garments per year, and will alter anything from a pair of jeans, to a £35,000 corseted, beaded gown, to garments from the pet department! The department is very fast paced with high expectations from the shop floor and customers alike; however it is a totally unique area and gives the team the diversity of working on garments from every area of the business. The role will see you managing a team of highly skilled tailors and fitters who have a wealth of knowledge. The team carry out alterations as requested across ladieswear, menswear and children’s garments. You will be comfortable in a busy, fast paced environment and have excellent communication skills.

PHOTOGRAPHIC PRODUCTION MANAGER LONDON – Competitive + Bens The photographic studio team has a high output of creative imagery and the photographic production manager must be able to lead the team, which includes photographers, retouchers, production staff, stylists, hair/make-up, and models, to produce fresh and amazing images on a daily basis. This role is also responsible for managing the commercial elements of the studio, to ensure it remains profitable and runs efficiently. The successful individual will have solid experience in art directing still life and/or RTW photo shoots with a focus on fashion, accessories and/or lifestyle products. You will have ecommerce experience and an in-depth knowledge of photographers and the production process. With strong time management, communication and interpersonal skills you will have the ability to multi task and work towards tight deadlines, managing several projects at the same time.

MERCHANDISER - FOOTWEAR SKELMERSDALE – Competitive We are currently recruiting for a Merchandiser to join the Merchandising team here at Matalan. As a Merchandiser you will optimise the profitability of a designated product areas, developing a commercial liaison across all interfaces with the Merchandising, Buying and Design functions within the business alongside training and development of own team. The successful candidate will set and agree core KPI’s with the Buyer in terms of sales, stock intake phasing, margin, stock turn, markdown and terminal stock, translating KPI’s into a range of framework. Working with the Buyer to develop commercial ranges within this framework, establishing initial stock intake plans and stock covers.

SENIOR ASSISTANT MERCHANDISER LONDON – Competitive salary & attractive benefits Looking to join a global retailer who values people? Then look no further. We are committed to developing our people, last year we made numerous promotions across the business and raised over £100K through our Monsoon Charity Trust fund raise. We have a strong brand with many talented people in the business along with a loyal customer base who know’s our heritage. We put people first and pride ourselves in attracting, developing, retaining and inspiring our talent. We have a fantastic opportunity for an Assistant Merchandiser to move into a Senior Assistant Merchandiser role, reporting into the Merchandiser. In this role you will be working together with the team and managing a merchandise assistant to drive the company’s sales & profit growth and helping to maximize the profile & effectiveness of our Brand.

FREELANCE DESIGNER - ACCESSORIZE COLD WEATHER/ KNITS/ FOOTWEAR/ ANGELS LONDON – Competitive day rate We have an exciting freelance design opportunity within our inspirational Accessorize Design team to support our Cold weather, Knits, Footwear & Angels team. We are looking for a unique and talented designer to help support with research and develop product for our existing range with the brand ‘handwriting’ in mind. Proven experience of multi-product accessories gained from a supplier or head office in-house design environment is essential. If you are an experienced, creative multi-accessories designer looking for a freelance opportunity, then we would like to hear from you!

DIGITAL CONSULTANT - RETAIL LONDON – Competitive This role will give the successful candidate the opportunity to sell a portfolio of market leading, award winning, data driven products and services to clients in multiple sector verticals. In return we offer a fantastic career structure, uncapped earning potential, a whole host of company benefits, and outstanding employee facilities. We are currently recruiting for the Retail team, with opportunities across Fashion, Jewellery, Accessories, Home & Garden. Previous knowledge of the sector is required. The candidate will join as a Digital Consultant, and has the opportunity to progress and head up their own sector with direct reports within a year.

JULY 27 2013

PRODUCTION PATTERN CUTTER LONDON – Competitive Salary Established Womenswear Company supplying to major High Street retailers, seeks an experienced Gerber trained production pattern cutter to join them in their beautiful new offices in Camden. You will work closely with the production team and designer, understand the critical path and work to tight deadlines. You will be responsible for fit alterations, spec sheets and ensuring all garments are made to customer requirements and standards. Must be able to work under pressure, use initiative to solve problems and be an integral part of our dynamic team.

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ECOMMERCE PRODUCTION & STUDIO MANAGER LONDON – Competitive Salary We are looking for an eCommerce Production & Studio Manager. Responsibilities of this role include management of the output of three global production centers that prepare product for online resale. This preparation includes, steaming, packaging, photography and data entry. Planning, scheduling, inventory management and team management are key elements of this role. If this job suits your experience and you are self-motivated, flexible, very organized, detail-oriented, a strong problem solver; and able to work well under pressure – we would like to talk to you about this opportunity. Working with us means being part of a team of talented, passionate individuals with a shared focus on teamwork to deliver great product and customer experiences.

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DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior

APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com

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DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior SENIOR BUYER LONDON, W12 – Competitive THE OUTNET.COM is the most fashionable fashion outlet. Since its launch in April 2009 by the people behind the award-winning website NET-A-PORTER, THE OUTNET.COM has quickly established itself as the chic, go-to destination for the global, style-conscious shopper looking for the best designer brands at a great discount price. The role: An exciting opportunity for an experienced, fashionable ambitious Senior Buyer to join THE OUTNET and develop our private label. Reporting to Private Label Manager, you would be part of a small, hardworking team and play an integral part in the range development, supplier management and overall success of our private label for THE OUTNET.

LONDON – Competitive salary - dependent upon experience We’re currently recruiting for a Commercial Sales Executive to join a major supplier to the UK, US & other developing markets for branded & private label formalwear. The right candidate will have proven experience within wholesale merchandising, supply chain management or commercial/sales management positions within fashion or textiles. In this position you will be involved in a wide range of commercial activities & potential management of a team (subject to level of experience). You will also be expected to drive service excellence from design concept & sales through to delivery, negotiate with suppliers of materials & capacity to obtain best available prices as well as implementing a robust rolling forecast system to enable the business to plan sales, cash, purchase & manufacturing routes accurately.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2643971’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2646104’

MARKETING MANAGER – LUXURY BRAND LONDON, ENGLAND – GBP40000 - GBP45000 per annum This is an exceptional opportunity for a passionate, proactive and strategic Marketing Manager to join a luxury jewellery and silver company in London. You will develop UK marketing campaigns across the marketing mix to maximise sales and increase brand awareness for retail and wholesale channels; CRM will be a key focus in this role. You will need to be a strong negotiator for media bookings, have managed a PR agency before, and have a basic understanding of e-commerce and social media.

DESIGNER WOMENSWEAR PREDOMINANTLY GLOUCESTERSHIRE – Highly Competitive, depending on experience An excellent opportunity exists for a high calibre individual with a fashion/textile related degree and at least 2 years fashion design experience to join our womenswear brand. Amari Designs is a young company known for its fresh unique prints and individual style. Amari wants women to look good and feel great, embracing their own style as confident women. We are looking for someone who can share this philosophy and capture our handwriting in their creations.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2645040’

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT EXECUTIVE LINCOLNSHIRE – Up to £25K Our client is the world’s largest and most popular creative floral delivery service. They have an exciting new opportunity for a dynamic Product Development Executive to join their team. You will be responsible for the creation and recommendation of the product development ranges. Working with suppliers to develop product ranges in line with margin requirements. You must have a keen eye for product as well as being highly commercial. Experience within the Floral industry is not essential but you must have experience of working within a design or product development environment.

COMMERCIAL SALES EXECUTIVE

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2644881’

COMMERCIAL MANAGERS UK – VARIOUS – Competitive Salary We have a number of exciting opportunities for Commercial Managers across the UK. These roles will involve creating and delivering key strategies and sales plans across the different businesses. Ideally you will be in a similar position with strong management skills, ability to manage the manufacturing process and have high level customer exposure. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2645987’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2644485’

SOURCING DIRECTOR TURKEY – £Excellent tax free + bens Exciting job opportunity for a Sourcing Director of Woven’s to join established fashion retailer. You will be expected to guide the product sourcing teams to make sure the manufacturing base is selected and managed to fulfil the company’s critical sourcing requirements and be responsible for buying needed items at the best price and of the highest quality. The ideal candidate must possess a high degree of business savvy, influencing skills, an ability to train and mentor others in key areas such as negotiations, and be extraordinarily self-motivated while leading others to drive breakthrough results. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2646131’

GRAPHIC DESIGNER – LEISUREWEAR LIVERPOOL – £25K Rapidly growing brand seeks a Leisurewear Graphic Designer to join inspiring menswear team. This is a new role and the ideal candidate will be confident, with a keen eye for design, be up to date on current graphics trends and together with the shapes designer create innovative and commercial ranges. As well as designing the graphics you will be involved in designing placement prints, labels and packaging. Is essential and you are proficient in Adobe Illustrator and Photoshop. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2646240’

PATTERN CUTTER LONDON – Attractive salary + benefits Our client is seeking talented Pattern Cutters, ideally with a fashion retail background. With roles available across multiproduct womenswear and menswear, we are particularly keen to hear from candidates with Gerber experience. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2645867’

SAMPLE MACHINIST - HIGH QUALITY MENSWEAR BLACKBURN, LANCASHIRE – COMPETITIVE SALARY, NEGOTIABLE DEPENDENT ON EXPERIENCE Our client is a heritage menswear brand producing beautifully crafted outerwear, denims and trousers. They are currently seeking a talented sample machinist to make up multi-product menswear for high end designer customers. Applications are invited from experienced sample machinists with experience of working with similar high quality products.

COURSE LEADER IN FASHION MANAGEMENT & MARKETING EPSOM – £44,607 - £48,729 per annum This appointment provides a significant opportunity to contribute to the leadership, development and delivery of Fashion Management & Marketing within the flourishing BA (Hons) Fashion Management & Marketing course. You will have highly developed experience in fashion management & marketing including industry sectors such as marketing, PR, buying and merchandising, visual merchandising, fashion forecasting and ethical fashion. You will have appropriate specialist knowledge in these sectors and will be up to date with current industry practice including developments in social media. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2644850’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2644573’

TECHNICIAN: FASHION NORWICH – £25,504 to £29,541 per annum As part of our ongoing commitment to a high quality student experience, we are seeking to recruit an additional member of technical support staff to join our successful team. The Fashion Studios provide specialist resources to support the creation and realisation of student work from the BA (Hons) and MA Fashion courses; the studios include professional sewing machines, overlockers, pressing equipment, highquality mannequins and pattern cutting facilities. The successful candidate will be a skilled, committed and dynamic Fashion Technician with proven professional experience of garment construction and manufacture in a commercial or Higher Education environment. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2645435’

LECTURER/SENIOR LECTURER IN FASHION KNITWEAR DESIGN NOTTINGHAM – £30,424 – £44,607 per annum pro rata You will be required to teach Fashion Knitwear Design at undergraduate level on the acclaimed BA Hons degree course in Fashion Knitwear Design and Knitted Textiles. You must possess a highly developed understanding of Fashion Design and its practice within the fashion and textiles industry. You will contribute as part of the team to the delivery of all years of the course and the development of the curriculum and teaching strategies.

FREELANCE FASHION DESIGNER FLEXIBLE AS FREELANCE POSITION – Flexible as freelance position La Beeby are a leading supplier of hair, health and beauty apparel. We are known for providing innovative designs which are practical for the workplace and supply to salons, spa’s and colleges. We are looking for a fashion designer to work with us on our new collection on a freelance basis. We need someone who can combine modern styling with a classic fit that will be suitable for all shapes and sizes and practical for the workplace.

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2643313’

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2645812’

JULY 27 2013

GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2645344’

FOOTWEAR BUYER HEYWOOD, LANCASHIRE – Highly Competitive An amazing opportunity has become available for a Buyer to join our expanding multi channel company based in Greater Manchester. Born in late 2005, and now trading with 30 high street stores, Footasylum is one of today’s new and exciting retailers. The Footasylum team have a passion for fashion, and a shared ethos that the products we sell are about a lifestyle choice, and not just functionality. With this in mind, we aim to move beyond the traditional experience of the high street, to offer a more quirky and unique retail experience. This is the perfect role for an experienced Assistant Buyer or Buyer who is looking for a new challenge.

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PRODUCTION CO-ORDINATOR WEST LONDON – Salary 21K Fashionizer- Couture Uniforms based in West London requires a production co-ordinator to join the team. This role includes co-ordinating the sampling and production of all garments with suppliers to tight deadlines. The job will also involve quality control, garment fittings and some sewing. This is a demanding and busy position working to set critical paths and high standards, so attention to detail and good time management are essential.

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GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2645872’

SERVICES DIRECTORY TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dani Choyen 0203 033 2987 danielle.choyen@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR

In Store Products and Services EPOS

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“We believe that we help retailers serve customers to world class standards”

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t: 0844 544 1108 e: sales@trcepos.co.uk www.trcepos.co.uk E-COMMERCE

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Call 0845 130 3535 or visit: www.toptotoe.com GARMENT STANDS KENNETT & LINDSELL LTD EST 1913 Consultants and specialists in the design and manufacture of garment stands for all aspects of clothing production. Design, fitting, standardisation and quality control

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Manufacturing GARMENT CMT

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Manufacturing a division of Halcyon Blue Ltd

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CMT FACTORY IN LONDON

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High quality British manufacturer has spare capacity, experienced in patterns and development for top designers. Jersey garments our speciality. Well equipped factory. Tel 07779 961217

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CLOTHING SOFTWARE

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T: 01245 253 420 E: sales@cdcuk.com www.cdcuk.com

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SWEATSHIRTS

SERVICES DIRECTORY TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dani Choyen 020 7728 4603 danielle.choyen@emap.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR

Fabric & Accessories FASHION FABRICS

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Suppliers of one of the best top quality European linings, with over 90 colours in stock and a further 140 colours available upon request. We also stock poly-wool suitings, dress and fashion fabrics. Ahmad Linings UK est. 1976 Tel: 01274 727069 Fax: 01274 390 407 Email: linings@ahmadtextiles.co.uk NB: We also buy all types of redundant/obsolete fabrics and trimmings with an immediate decision and pay cash or bankers draft prior to collection from small to large quantities. Can collect anywhere in the UK or abroad

Importers and wholesalers of Luxury Faux Fur to UK Manufacturing www.ambassador-textiles.co.uk info@ambassador-textiles.co.uk

Huma Fabrics

Suppliers of fashion/textile fabrics 37A Skeltons Lane Fabric House Leyton E10 5BT

GB Wholesale Ltd

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Fabric importers established in 1958

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Contact Paul 0208 447 5905 or 07939111193 email gbwpaul@live.co.uk www.gbwholesale.co.uk

www.drapersonline.com

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www.theliningcompany.co.uk

Importers, Exporters & Wholesalers of Textile Fabrics For Ladies Fashion Industry. Unit 5, Hayes Metro Centre, Springfield Road, Hayes, Middlesex UB4 0LE

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TRIMMINGS 41169 Barnett Lawson Order form.qxd:••

21/4/08

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A fantastic range of over 12,000 items: Braids, buttons, cords, fringes,ORDER fringe curtains, feathers, ﬂowers, insertions, elastics, lace, ribbons, personalised printed ribbons, ric-rac, rigilene, diamanté, pearl & sequin trims, tie-backs, tubular crin, Velcro, bridal trims, millinery supplies and much, much more. If we don’t have it, we can source it! Visit our transformed website! 16/17 Little Portland Street London W1W 8NE T: +44 (0) 20 7636 8591 F: +44 (0) 20 7580 0669 E: info@bltrimmings.com W: www.bltrimmings.com

Durable Fasteners Ltd. 430 Kingsland Rd, London E8 4AA Tel: 020 7254 6713

ORDER No.

A/C No.

ORDER No. DATE

ARTICLE No.

DESCRIPTION

UNIT PRICE

16-17 Little Portland Street, London W1W 8NE T: 020 7636 8591; F: 020 7580 0669 E: info@bltrimmings.com; W: www.bltrimmings.com

Notice board STOCK WANTED

shop@theliningcompany.co.uk 0844 800 3630

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To MESSRS

EMPEE SILK FABRICS LTD, we carry one of the largest selections of fabric in the UK. We carry a huge range of plain and printed Satin, Lace, Organza, Velvet, Foil, Cotton, P/C, Fun fur and many more. All under one roof; 31 Commercial Road, Edmonton, London N18 1TP. Tel: 020 8887 6000 Fax: 020 8887 6045. Email: empee@wholesalefabrics.co.uk Web: www.wholesalefabrics.co.uk Redundant stocks bought for cash.

LININGS

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FREELANCE SERVICES

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Registered Office: Sentinel House Sentinel Square Brent Street London NW4 2EP Reg No. 2211489 VAT No. GB 494731613 Directors CI Marx GI Marx

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WE BUY...WE SELL... Established 1973 Established 1973

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ATTN: RETAILERS Manufactures/Wholesalers etc We pay MORE for your overstocks as we do not sell your goods on, any quantity Please phone Mr David 0208 736 0088 M: 07836 389 399. Fax 0208 736 0089 or Email buyers@dofg.net

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THE STOCK AND ASSETS OF A SPECIALIST TEXTILE SUPPLIER • Fabric Stocks (Cost Value circa £400,000) • Inspection & Measuring Machinery • Pallet Racking, Forklift Truck, Office Furniture & Eqt For further details contact the agents mark.weston@sw.co.uk sandersonweatherall.co.uk

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BUYERS GUIDE TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dani Choyen 0203 033 2987 danielle.choyen@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR

Zuppe Clothing Ladieswear Showroom Extensive range of young ladieswear in stock for immediate delivery. Labels stocked: Zuppe,

Frock Me Couture, Tilly Tizzaro

JULY 27 2013

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Contact Details: 49 Knowsley Street, Manchester, M8 8JF Sales Team – 0161 833 4010 Fax – 0160 833 4090 Email – zuppe@btconnect.com Website – www.zuppeclothing.com/collection

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and Preppi.

DIRECTIONS I THIS FASHION LIFE

‘Pure London is an order-writing show – with £152m worth of orders placed’ ➝ What changes will we see for the August

edition? There will be a host of brands that have never shown at Pure London, from as far afield as the US and South Korea. Three stages will be at the heart of core sections of the show and buyers will hear from renowned speakers including the founder of Drapers Award-winning Dorchester boutique Yard, Vicki Fernyhough, and an expert from Google. Plus, there will be exclusive insights from fashion trend forecaster WGSN and ‘What to buy’ seminars from Drapers, which is part of the same group as Pure. What sets Pure London apart on the trade show scene? Pure London is an order-writing show. Not many shows can boast one of the biggest gatherings of independent retailers in Europe. They place more than £152m of orders at or following the event. What challenges do you see in putting on a major fashion trade show and how are you overcoming them? It’s a really exciting time for retail, when everyone has to be at the top of their game. Buyers look to Pure London to help them find new labels which help them to differentiate their offer, gain inspiration, advice and share experiences with other retailers. Any plans for new categories? No, in fact the opposite. Our core offer is ready-to-wear, footwear and accessories and our focus will intensify on bringing exciting labels to help our buyers differentiate and refresh their offer. What brands showing at the August edition of Pure London excite you? We’ll see some very exciting collections from Frau Blau, Manitic, Isa Frignani, White Tent, Jolonté Vous! and Emile. These will appear alongside more established brands such as Avoca Anthology, Fenn Wright Manson and InWear. How important are London trade shows to buyers on an international level? They are incredibly important, especially for progressive retailers. London is a fashion capital and the UK fashion scene has long been synonymous with setting world trends. How do you see Pure London looking in five years’ time? Presenting the best of contemporary womenswear in Europe. This is what we aimed to do when we launched and it’s still where we want to be in five years’ time.

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➝

Louise Young The managing director for retail at i2i Events Group speaks to IAN WRIGHT about plans for Pure London in August and beyond You’re heading up the strategic direction for Pure London. How are you changing it? I was involved with Pure London for 10 years until 2007. It’s just great to be back and to have the opportunity to view the industry and the show with fresh eyes. For both UK and international brands it’s the gateway to the British fashion consumer. The February edition will see a refresh, which will take Pure into a new era. We look forward to sharing details soon.

➝

Pure London takes place at London Olympia on August 4-6. For full details, visit www.purelondon.com

FOLLOWPEPE PEPEJEANS.COM SHOP ONLINE AT

TEL. 02073 133 800