Dream by Luxury Escapes | Issue 02 by Luxury Escapes

No worries atoll Pullman Maldives Maamutaa, where white-sand wishes and blue-lagoon dreams come true

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ISSUE 02

A B E T T E R W AY T O T R A V E L

OCTOBER – DECEMBER 2023

LOS CABOS, MEXICO Where the desert meets the sea

Los Cabos is located at the tip of the Baja California Sur Peninsula, only a 2.5hr flight from L.A., and many direct flight options from the US. Boasting 350 days of sunshine a year, you’ll find some of the world’s most spectacular resorts, daring fusions that pair international cuisines with farm-fresh Mexican ingredients, and an array of iconic activities that draw on the destinations’ rich natural landscapes and adventurous culture.

Make time to explore both Cabo San Lucas with its bustling nightlife, and the tranquil old town of San Jose del Cabo. Oceanographer Jacques Costeau called the area’s Sea of Cortés the ‘Aquarium of the World’, thanks to its abundance of marine life. This Mexican paradise awaits you…

DISCOVER MORE

VisitLosCabos.Travel

DR EAM BY L U X U RY E S CA P ES

NEW. NOW. NEXT

Melbourne’s new dinner theatre trend Why your night out in the city might come with a side order of swords, fire and liquid nitrogen.

Bite club: the rise of foodie travel Tracking down memorable food experiences has replaced the idea of simply travelling.

THE LUX FILES 20

Why Pullman Maldives Maamutaa is one of the best stays in the archipelago.

40 Welcome to the jungle in Borneo

DRE A M BY L U X U RY ES CA P ES

Drive a supercar on a track made of ice In Swedish Lapland you can take on an icy replica of a Formula 1 circuit.

Page 11

Sharing bananas with orangutans, searching for sun bears and dining on wild foods.

Cover image Pullman Maldives Maamutaa, a Luxury Escapes favourite.

Get a slice of paradise in the Maldives

The new place for overwater luxury Song Saa Private Island is making Cambodia a go-to destination for overwater stays.

Contents

O CTO BE R – DE C E M BE R 2 0 2 3

The Luxury Escapes insider guide to Hawaii

Everything you need to know for a perfect getaway to America’s Pacific paradise.

The Indonesian island that time forgot

Sumba, with its wild horses and traditional architecture, is attracting fans of Bali past.

The European Union’s little wonder Go island hopping in Malta for a mix of history, modernity and amazing hospitality.

Queensland’s regional dining mecca The Scenic Rim region has some of the freshest flavours in Australia right now.

A tale of two Mediterranean cruises The Luxury Escapes TV team takes to the seas with Virgin Voyages and Silversea Cruises.

HERE & FAR Editorial Head of Content Penny Cordner-Maas

Managing Editor Paul Chai

Creative Lead Natalie Meneghetti

Editorial Coordinator Felicia Arhontissas

For all editorial enquiries, contact editorial@luxuryescapes.com

Advertising Tourism Boards Partnerships Manager Jodie Collins For all advertising enquiries, contact mediasales@luxuryescapes.com

Luxury Escapes CEO and Co-founder Adam Schwab Chief Marketing Officer Ben Connell

CEO of Luxury Escapes International Ben Chan

Dream by Luxury Escapes is published by Luxury Escapes (ACN 150 650 927), Level 4, 68 Clarke Street, Southbank, VIC 3006. Ph: 1300 88 99 00. Printed in partnership with Invicium print management company.

Page 65

DESTINATION DEEP DIVES DREAM BY L U X U RY E S CAP E S

NOW

B Y

L U

SUB

E S C A P

D R

This year, we are celebrating ten years of the world’s best holidays. When we first started Luxury Escapes, we had no idea what it would look like a decade later. It has not always been an easy ride for the travel industry as a whole, and a lot has changed recently, but we have continued to provide incredible holidays at equally incredible prices for our millions of members. And Australian travellers never forgot how much they love travel. They are criss-crossing the world for food experiences as we outline in our “Moveable feast” story on page 32; they are exploring the wilds of Borneo on bespoke tours like in our “Welcome to the jungle” feature on page 20 and they are taking to the high seas like in our “Tale of two cruises” story on page 88. Travellers are also looking to unwind after a few years of stress, so the Maldives remains one of our top destinations for a classic fly-and-flop trip and Pullman Maldives Maamutaa remains one of the best all-inclusive options in the archipelago (“Isle be back” page 34). This renewed love of travel has inspired us to create a new suite of products that help

From the Luxury Escapes CEO

you from the minute you start planning to the moment you arrive at your destination. For inspiration, the new season of our travel TV show, Luxury Escapes: The World’s Best Holidays, is on Foxtel Lifestyle, Binge and Network Ten, featuring spa treatments in the new Capella Sydney hotel (page 52), vineyard visits in Tuscany and stunning resorts on the Greek islands. For planning, our brand-new bricks-andmortar store in Melbourne’s Chadstone shopping centre is helping you with all aspects of your next holiday, in person with a knowledgeable member of the Luxury Escapes team. We have a full calendar of in-store activations with a range of travel

partners so there will always be something to drop in for. We are also constantly evolving the offerings on our website with more flights, a greater range of tours and the new offering of car hire. This constant innovation means that in our tenth year of operation we topped Roy Morgan’s 2023 Premium Brand rankings in the online travel brand category, which really was the icing on the birthday cake. We hope you enjoy this issue of Dream by Luxury Escapes and find inspiration for your next big trip. If you can dream it, the team at Luxury Escapes can help you turn it into reality.

Adam Schwab CEO and Co-founder Luxury Escapes

DRE A M BY L U X U RY ES CA P ES

THE LUX FILES

Shining a light on the new, the next, the people and the places you need to know about.

20 / Explore the wildlife and wild food of Borneo

28 / Melbourne’s theatrical new dinner services

34 / Why Pullman Maldives is a true paradise

46 / Is Cambodia the new goto for overwater stays?

THE LU X FI LES N EW & NE X T

N E E D TO KN OW

Wild and reimagined andBeyond’s Ngala Tented Camp set for revamp

Have you heard...

You can train with a champion at Soneva Fushi Travel experience company andBeyond’s Ngala Tented Camp is set for an extensive refurbishment from early next year and will reopen in September 2024 as a reimagined bush experience. New interiors will fuse local Shangaan-inspired mid-century flourishes with regional designs and textiles surrounded by granite stone and canvas. The new layout and extended outdoor deck will include a larger swimming pool, secluded outdoor spaces and a guest area with a sunken lounge and riverbed views. Redesigned

ensuites feature both an indoor and outdoor shower and an al fresco bathtub, while the existing spa will be relocated and expanded. The camp is welcome to guests 12 years and older to ensure a romantic and private escape among the wildlife. While reclining on a shaded sala listen out for the calls of the local African wild dog and famous white lion found in andBeyond Ngala Private Game Reserve, which shares an unfenced border with Kruger National Park.

“Pinch me” private island dining

Michelin-starred chef to host dinner parties for Mandarin Oriental Exclusive Homes Mandarin Oriental Exclusive Homes on Tagomago private island just off the coast of Ibiza welcomes an unparalleled dining experience with renowned Michelin-starred Spanish chef Quique Dacosta. Guests of the exclusive homes are invited to attend an intimate dinner party with a 13-course set menu curated by Chef Quique himself. “We are thrilled to present an extraordinary dining experience on Tagomago, promising our guests an unforgettable stay of luxury and culinary brilliance, synonymous with the renowned standards of Mandarin Oriental,” said Robert Lowe, General Manager, Area Vice President, Operations at Mandarin Oriental Ritz, Madrid. Guests can expect dishes including almond nougat and black truffle from Andilla, nori seaweed with rice corals, and cold razor clams alongside a refined selection of fine wines and champagne.

D R E A M BY L U X U RY ES CA P ES

From November 22 to December 1, 2023, guests of all ages can experience one-on-one coaching sessions and friendly matches with tennis pro Daniil Medvedev on the resort’s Olympic-sized tennis court. This exciting event is just one of many from the hotel group’s constantly evolving Soneva Stars calendar.

National Zoo & Aquarium is celebrating its 25th birthday This year marks the quarter-century celebration of National Zoo & Aquarium, home to Canberra’s much-loved Jamala Wildlife Lodge. Feed a giraffe, visit the aviary to meet the Barking Owl siblings, or take an Awesome Roarsome tour and enjoy close encounters with tigers, bears and hyenas.

Fraser Island returns to its original name, K’gari Recognising and honouring the Traditional Owner’s connection to country, the Queensland Government announced Fraser Island’s return to its traditional name, K’gari. The world’s largest sand island and UNESCO World Heritage Area has been used by its Traditional Owners, the Butchulla People, for more than 60,000 years.

MISSISSIPPI RIVER CRUISING

ALL THIS & MORE INCLUDED PRE-CRUISE HOTEL STAY

MEALS

BEVERAGES

LIVE ENTERTAINMENT

SHORESIDE DISCOVERIES

Pre-cruise hotel stay in Memphis including breakfast

Acclaimed cuisine, using fresh, local ingredients

Beverages including beer, wine, spirits and non-alcoholic options

Daily live entertainment from award-winning performers

Excursions in every port, rich in culture and history

LOWER MISSISSIPPI | Memphis to New Orleans 9 Days

American Queen or American Countess

TENNESSEE 1 MEMPHIS

ARKANSAS Mississippi River Cleveland (Terrene Landing) LOUISIANA Natchez Nottoway AQV Exclusive

MISSISSIPPI Vicksburg 7 AQV River Ship St. Francisville Baton Rouge

aqvoyages.com.au

NEW ORLEANS

Explore Tennessee, Mississippi & Louisiana

American Queen Voyages takes you on a historic and luxurious adventure through America's heartland. Our iconic red paddlewheelers showcase the grandeur and old-world charm of river cruising with modern comforts, unique characteristics and the finest Southern cuisine. From the moment you step on board until your final farewell, you’ll enjoy a more personalised experience and gracious hospitality, creating an unforgettable voyage that immerses you in the charm and generosity of the South.

Highlights

• Visit Memphis, one of the most famous music destinations in the world, including Graceland and Beale Street • Take a walk down the river or meander through the streets of Baton Rouge, a city steeped in history • Visit our exclusive port at Nottoway, the largest standing pre-Civil War era mansion in the South • Uncover the treasures of New Orleans as you explore the unique sites and attractions lining the historic streets • Enjoy The Great Delta Music Experience in Cleveland, the birth place of the blues

THE LU X FI LES G R AN D O P E NING S

The latest and hottest hotel and resort openings to get on your radar COMO Metropolitan Singapore The COMO Group’s flagship Singapore hotel Singapore opened its first COMO Group flagship in September 2023, a 156-room luxury hotel spread over 19 floors in a prime address in the heart of the city. The design is cutting edge, with the help of award-winning Italian architect Paola Navone, Japanese interior design-consultant Koichiro Ikebuchi, Norwegian digital artist Thomas Hilland, and New York City-based architecture firm Modellus Novus. The building features a rooftop pool and bar as well as two floors of fashion retail from dynamic, season collections to pop-up partnerships.

The COMO Cuisine restaurant is dedicated to creating some of the best food in Singapore. A first for COMO Group is the Asia debut for internationally acclaimed French pastry chef Cédric Grolet, whose patisserie serves delicate pastries, sandwiches and an exclusive tea menu. Meanwhile, restaurateur Simon Kim of COTE Korean Steakhouse makes an appearance in Singapore, following the success of the Michelin-starred restaurant in New York City and Miami.

SO/ Maldives

Atlantis The Royal, Dubai

Sustainability meets privateisland indulgence

Dubai’s most happening hotel hotspot

Maldives welcomes the chic SO/ Hotels & Resorts brand with the grand opening of SO/ Maldives in November 2023. Set on its own private island on the Emboodhoo Lagoon, the resort will provide its guests with a luxurious island castaway experience. Beachfront and overwater pool villas range from 120 to 330 square metres, each with a contemporary design inspired by nature and the local culture. What’s more, SO/ Maldives upholds a commitment to sustainability by incorporating solar energy to daily operations, promoting local employment and working alongside ocean conservation groups at the Marine Discovery Centre, all of which have contributed to the winning of multiple awards and a Green Globe Certification.

Dubai’s hotel scene has a penchant for the extravagant, and Atlantis The Royal is no exception. The 43-storey resort features 231 luxurious apartments, 693 hotel rooms and 102 suites, all boasting ocean views and vistas of Palm Island. Upon arrival in the lobby, guests will be greeted by a colossal tank of 2,000 jellyfish as the centrepiece, with an additional three aquariums also in the welcoming area. The resort is home to 90 swimming pools, one of which is a rooftop infinity pool on the 22nd floor. The outdoor entertainment experience, Cloud 22, gives guests access to VIP cabanas with private plunge pools, a swim-up bar and an iridescent, head-shaped DJ booth hosting world-class DJs on a nightly basis.

S OF I TE L BAN G KO K SU K H U M V I T

H OTE L N E W S

ANA NTA R A KOH YAO YA I R ES ORTS & VILL AS

More hot-oﬀthe-press openings

Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit has recently launched its own skywalk bridge that connects the five-star hotel directly to the nearby BTS Asok and MRT Sukhumvit stations, as well as the upscale Terminal 21 shopping mall. Experience the carefully curated spa menu at Le Spa, in partnership with luxury lifestyle brand L’Occitane.

AT L A NT IS T HE ROYA L , D U BA I

Anantara Koh Yao Yai Resorts & Villas

Grand Mercure Bali Seminyak

Where seclusion and local encounters converge

Stay in the heart of Bali’s coolest neighbourhood

Guests will be welcomed to private island bliss at this new resort – a former palm tree plantation – featuring 148 classically designed suites, penthouses and villas. Families can opt to stay in the Grand Family Sea View Suites complete with bunk beds and slides, or the spacious Sea View Pool Penthouses that feature interconnecting rooms, infinityedge pools and private rooftop terraces. “Destinations like Koh Yao Yai that combine seclusion, easy access to pristine nature and authentic local experiences, are destined to benefit from a surge in demand with global travellers,” says Dillip Rajakarier, Group CEO of Minor International and CEO of Minor Hotels.

Located just 100 metres from the beach, with Seminyak’s best restaurants, bars, boutiques and galleries at its doorstep, the Grand Mercure Bali Seminyak best places guests for exploring Bali’s capital of cool. When choosing to skip the town and stay in, guests can enjoy the use of three swimming pools, lush tropical gardens, a kids’ club, Lagoon Pool Bar, Batur all-day restaurant and a day spa that offers signature Balinese massages in candlelit treatment rooms. “With its focus on local art, heritage, wellness and cuisine, our new premium hotel is the perfect fit for this enchanting destination the heart of Seminyak,” said Alessandro Migliore, General Manager of Grand Mercure Bali Seminyak.

Innahura Maldives Fun is in focus at Innahura Maldives in the south-east Lhaviyani Atoll. A total of 78 bungalows are set right on the beach, moments from the coral reef. Beginner and advanced scuba diving courses are available here, plus an assortment of water sports including stand-up paddleboarding and kayaking.

Seven Secrets by Hanging Gardens Reopened and rebranded in Lombok under the celebrated Hanging Gardens name, the five-star Seven Secrets by Hanging Gardens invites guests to experience all-inclusive luxury in an oceanfront location. Interiors have been handpicked by renowned fashion designer Roberto Cavalli, including Italian Murano chandeliers and European travertine marble, while all suites feature a private jacuzzi.

DREAM BY L U XU RY E S CAP E S

THE LU X FI LES THE HE IG H T O F L U X U RY

BARC E LO N A , S PA I N

Once a densely packed, walled city, Barcelona was transformed into a grid by Catalan engineer Ildefons Cerda, the father of “urbanisation”. Photo: Overview

BARC E LO N A

DREAM BY L U X U RY E S CAP E S

THE LU X FI LES T W I N TOW NS

Both cities are packed with high-end dining and places to party, they have the ocean lapping at their heels and an abundance of sunshine, but just how similar are Los Angeles and the Gold Coast? We compare the pair.

Los Angeles HAV E A DRI N K

G R AB A B I T E

Mama Shelter Rooftop

Hayato

For drinks with a view, Mama Shelter Rooftop is a fun rooftop joint in a prime position, one street back from Hollywood Boulevard. This buzzing bar boasts views of the Hollywood sign one way and the LA city skyline the other. Sink into one of the colourful sofas with an Ocaso cocktail – tequila, grapefruit, agave and grapefruit bitters, or grab a table for light bites like fish tacos and ceviche to accompany an ice-cold Mexican beer.

Experience intimate, high-end Japanese cuisine at Hayato, a seven-seater downtown restaurant. Chef Brandon Hayato Go puts on a show by preparing and cooking each course right before your eyes, giving detailed explanations throughout the process. Dishes like miso-glazed black cod, seafood nabe (hot pot) and steamed abalone celebrate traditional Japanese cooking methods, earning the restaurant two Michelin stars.

T HE N E I GH B O URH O OD

CATC H A G AME

WHER E TO STAY

Hollywood Boulevard

Los Angeles Lakers

Mondrian Los Angeles

Hollywood has long been a beacon for fame-seekers and the fabled Hollywood Boulevard remains its spiritual heart. Take a stroll down the Hollywood Walk of Fame, check out Capitol Records Tower and visit the TCL Chinese Theatre. Beyond the legends of Tinseltown, the culinary scene of Hollywood shoots for the stars; check out Tropicana Bar at the iconic Hollywood Roosevelt for topnotch tacos and tipples.

What better way to fully immerse yourself in the local culture than by attending an LA Lakers game? Whether you’re an NBA fan or not, the electrifying atmosphere at Crypto. com Arena is irresistible. Expect music, light shows and cheerleaders – you’ll have a hard time staying in your seat. Grab a hot dog and pint of Budweiser and settle in for a night filled with sports and entertainment.

Mondrian Los Angeles offers a pocket of serenity from the action on the Sunset Strip; heed the call of its rooftop pool, city views from the Skybar and high-end Mexican dining at Casa Madera. What’s more, you can enjoy a spa experience from the comfort of your room with a signature Soothe x Mondrian Los Angeles experience bringing salonquality wellness to you.

Explore Mondrian

IMAGE: ALEX – STOCK.ADOBE.COM. WORDS FELICIA ARHONTISSAS

The ritzy, glitzy City of Angels is a siren call to fun-seekers and dream chasers from across the globe.

L AX /O O L

Gold Coast Where the city meets the sea, the GC’s enviable location and fun-loving vibe draws in the young and young at heart. WHE R E TO STAY

Star Grand Gold Coast The Star Grand Gold Coast is equal parts convenient and luxurious thanks to its five-star facilities and excellent location in the heart of buzzing Broadbeach. By day, lounge poolside in a private cabana sipping on a cocktail, and by night head to the casino or the Atrium Bar for live music and Wednesday night stand-up comedy. For chic rooftop dining, Nineteen at the Star is the place to be for fresh seafood, premium cuts of beef and carefully paired wines.

HAVE A DR I NK

The Island Rooftop Hailed as the best-kept secret of Surfers Paradise, The Island Rooftop bar is the city’s largest open-air rooftop drinking spot. Soak in the sunshine and city views while sipping cocktails served in whole coconuts alongside light tapas-style bites when you’re feeling peckish. On Sunday afternoons, the Rooftop Bottomless Brunch Club takes over: savour fruity, bottomless cocktails over share-style brunch items including waffles, bagels and breakfast tostadas. G R AB A B I T E

Yamagen With a stellar location at QT Gold Coast, you can expect a seamless blend of tried-andtested Japanese dishes with innovative twists by chef Adam Lane. Start with crispy pork belly with nashi pear and watermelon radish before moving onto the pan-fried wagyu beef gyoza with miso mustard. Top it off with passionfruit and coconut panna cotta with burnt-orange caramel. T HE NEI G HB O U RHO OD

Surfers Paradise Surfers Paradise has come a long way from the golden bikinis and schoolies party days; families are now drawn to the beaches for surf lessons, kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding. Foodies flock here for brash diners like COAST Beach Bar & Kitchen, Citrique seafood restaurant and White Rhino, all found within the always-busy Circle on Cavil precinct. For bars, try Surfers Pavilion or The Exhibitionist with a view stretching from the Hinterland to the ocean. CATC H A G AME

Gold Coast World Masters Golf Championship

OPPOSITE PAGE: the cityscape of LA ABOVE: Star Grand Gold Coast

Hailed as Australia’s best tournament for club golfers, the World Masters Golf Championship is a week-long golfing extravaganza held in mid-October. If you’re a keen golfer, why not challenge yourself by signing up to compete? Or if you prefer to be a spectator, enjoy the sunshine and golf while making the most of the facilities on offer. You’ll find an onsite restaurant and café, plus a pop-up wine bar to wet your whistle between rounds. DREAM BY L U X U RY E S CAP E S

THE LU X FI LES WAY FI N D E R

B O R NE O

Welcome to the jungle

A region that oﬀers visitors the chance to experience sun bears, celebrated jungle foods, orangutans and Anthony Bourdain’s “breakfast of the gods”. Belinda Jackson explores the beauty of Malaysia’s Sarawak. PHOTO G R APHY BY JONATHAN CAMÍ

BO RN E O

The old lady extends her hand to receive the offering of a banana, which she accepts as if it is her right. Which, of course, it is when you are Seduku, the Grand Old Dame, a 50-year-old orangutan and one of the remaining few of her kind not found behind bars. I’m at Semenggoh Wildlife Centre in Kuching, and its semi-wild orangutans are the top drawcards of this quiet Asian outpost, sharing the limelight with sun bears, shamans and laksa. Little Kuching is the capital of Sarawak, a Malaysian state on the island of Borneo, which is carved up between Malaysia and Indonesia, with a small slice belonging to Brunei. In this equatorial city, temperatures are high and it receives more than three metres of rain a year, so it’s no surprise Kuching is hemmed by tropical jungle so vibrant, you know it’s just trying to take the city back into its arms. Nature calls all the shots here: the broad Sarawak River splits the city in two, and the locals comply with its rules, simply catching longboats – rowed by elderly men – from the residential side of town to the little knotted streets of Kuching’s business centre.

OPPOSITE: Semenggoh Wildlife Centre in Kuching is one of the last places in the world where you can see semi-wild orangutans. CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Kuching is the capital of Sarawak and is hemmed in by jungle with unique wildlife like sun bears.

To get to grips with Sarawak, I first visit the city’s newest landmark, the Borneo Cultures Museum. It helps me piece together the puzzle of the peoples – about 40 per cent of Sarawak’s population are indigenous non-Muslims whose 31 tribal groups include the Bidayuh, the Iban and the Orang Ulu – as well as Malay and Chinese Malaysians. It tells stories of shamans and headhunters, of healing sapi

music and boat coffins. At one point, I climb into a baruk, a communal Bidayuh house, ducking to avoid the skulls hanging from the ceiling. There are more skulls in the towers of Fort Margherita. The white, wedding-cake fortress is part of the Brooke Museum, dedicated to Sarawak’s White Rajah, James Brooke. I confess a certain fondness for the Indian-born Englishman, who was offered the

position of governor in 1841 after he helped crack down on the region’s notorious pirate scene. His portrait, which now hangs in the National Portrait Gallery in London, shows him as a fine, trim man in breeches, with a certain Colin Firth look about him. As the story goes, he was apparently an enormous fan of Jane Austen’s novels, and would read her works aloud to his companions in the jungles of Borneo.

DREAM BY L U X U RY E S CAP E S

WAY FI N D E R

BO RN E O

Taste of the tropics It was Anthony Bourdain who more recently gave Sarawak its time in the sun, when he dropped into Choon Hui Cafe back in 2015 and declared Sarawakian laksa to be “the breakfast of the gods”. I follow in his footsteps and, at 9am on a Friday morning, every table is full, while around its fringe, little cooking stands turn out their one dish: kolo mee (dry noodles), chicken feet, or… that laksa. The tamarind-spiked broth is packed with rice vermicelli noodles and topped with prawns, chicken and beansprouts, the traditional sides of chilli sambal and a cut calamansi – a perfumed local citrus fruit – completing the picture. The next time I try laksa, it’s a very different setting; looking over an infinity pool suspended above mangroves and the warm, crocodile-rich waters of the South China Sea. This is Cove 55, Sarawak’s best boutique hotel, on the Santubong Peninsula 30 minutes north of Kuching. Every table I sit at in Sarawak poses an adventure – from the roadside stall to El Bulli-trained chef Gerald Then’s table at Cove 55. Beside a waterfall in the jungle as we eat from plates of giant leaves. In the stylish Roots restaurant in the whitewashed, 150-year-old former courthouse in central Kuching. Or atop a city parking lot, at Top Spot, whose memorable plates include a jellyfish ceviche.

COVE 55

Set at the water’s edge, Cove 55 has 13 guestrooms and 13 overwater bungalows either looking over the mangroves or the South China Sea. Owned by a local Iban family, its kitchen serves Sarawak classics and showcases the best local handcrafts in its rooms and its boutique.

D R E A M BY L U X U RY ES CA P ES

Explore Cove 55

At first, I try to frame Sarawak’s fruits and vegetables in way I can understand: the pretty fiddlehead jungle fern midin is like water spinach, the dabai is a local variant on black olives, while mata kuching, or cat’s eye, is a type of longan. But eventually, I give up – defeated by the sheer abundance from one of the most bio-diverse places on the planet. Pickled highland guava? Sure. Torch ginger flower? Ok. What about some ripe durian? Given it lingers on your breath and could surely take a sun bear down at 50 paces, I’m not sure anyone in my company would thank me if I ate it. Days are filled with jungle trekking on the Indo-Malaysian border, snacking on pisang goreng (freshly battered bananas), cycling through villages and a visit to the Matang Wildlife Centre to support the work of volunteers rescuing and healing Sarawak’s sun bears and orangutans, bear cats and vividly coloured hornbills. All the while, I am thinking of Seduku, the ancient orangutan. She is rare and precious, a unique jewel. To be treasured and protected for being like nothing else on earth. Just like Sarawak.

Sail into magic After incredible demand, Disney Cruise Line has announced its second season of sailings with Disney Magic at Sea in Australia and New Zealand from October 2024 to February 2025.

IN PARTN ERSH IP WITH

Looking for the perfect family holiday? Disney Cruise Line’s new season of sailings adds a little Disney magic to a multi-generational family cruising holiday. Disney has been a part of every child’s life for the past century and the inaugural sailings in Australia and New Zealand last year were met with a heartfelt reaction from kids both big and small. And now, due to popular demand, Disney Cruise Line is announcing a whole new season of voyages. Sailing from Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane in Australia and Auckland in New Zealand, Disney

Magic at Sea will bring enchantment and cherished Disney friends to your shores for a special new season of two seven-night cruises from October 2024 to February 2025. Immerse yourself in the magic of Disney storytelling with favourite Characters, imaginative dining, spectacular entertainment and themed events throughout your sailing. It’s all included with your cruise. Set sail for an unforgettable Disney Cruise Line holiday.

Broadway-style entertainment Aboard a Disney Magic at Sea cruise, guests of any age can discover something fun onboard. Young and the young-at-heart can enjoy nightly entertainment in the form of three spectacular Broadway-style shows, all included in the cruise: Sing along with Elsa in Frozen, A Musical Spectacular; indulge in nostalgic Disney with all-time classics like Peter Pan with Disney Dreams – An Enchanted Classic; and attend a fun award ceremony at the Golden Mickeys. Adults even have their own exclusive spaces to rest and relax, including an adults-only pool area, elegant, sophisticated dining and the rejuvenating Senses Spa.

Fusion food with a side order of Disney fun Mealtimes are a fun affair with four exceptional restaurants onboard. Disney Cruise Line offers unique Rotational Dining where you will dine in a new and exciting restaurant each night of your cruise, and your dedicated wait staff will move with you to create a personalised dining experience. Tiana’s Place serves New Orleans-inspired cuisine, live music and the chance to meet Princess Tiana herself. Animator’s Palate is a celebration of Disney animation and the menu consists of a tantalising fusion of Pacific Island, Asian and Californian flavours. If you fancy upscale dining with a French flair, Triton’s, named after Ariel’s father in Disney’s “The Little Mermaid”, serves supper in four courses. For an extra splash of sophistication, the adults-only Palo restaurant features Northern Italian dishes with a modern twist which can be booked for an additional fee. Plus, you can enjoy 24-hour room service and unlimited teas, coffee, soft drinks and ice cream at any time on the pool deck.

Oceaneer Lab, the onboard kids’ club. It’s packed to the brim with fun: there’s a playground, Character experiences, themed games and activities. Tweens and teens also have their own space to hang out during the cruise, decked out with high-tech entertainment.

A boutique hotel at sea Staterooms have been designed with families in mind: interiors are spacious and imaginative retreats, with full-sized Euro-top mattresses, 100% cotton linens and split ensuites with bathtubs. If this is the family cruising holiday that you’ve been waiting to splurge on, choose to stay in the Concierge Suite with Verandah. Like a boutique hotel room at sea, the Concierge surpasses luxury and comes complete with its own dedicated team, exclusive lounge and priority boarding and booking.

Award-winning cruises.

Meet Captain Mickey and his pals Be immersed in the enchantment of Disney storytelling with Character encounters; you can meet some of your favourites from Disney, Pixar, Marvel and Star Wars. Look out for Captain Mickey or Captain Minnie roaming the ship on the way to Disney’s Oceaneer Club and Disney’s

Taking home accolades such as Travel & Leisure: World’s Best Awards 2022 – No. 1 Large-Ship Ocean Cruise Line, US News & World Report: 2023 Best Cruises Ranking – #1 Gold Badge Winner – Best Cruise Lines for Families, and Condé Nast Traveler 2021 Reader’s Choice Awards – #1 Top Large Cruise Line in the World (for the tenth consecutive year), you can rest assured that the quality of service aboard Disney Cruise Line is where the magic really begins. The new season of Disney Magic at Sea Australia and New Zealand cruises set sail from October 19, 2024.

Find out more

Bookings for general sale are now open. Two-night sailings may have modified or limited entertainment offerings. Additional costs may be required for some experiences and may need to be booked in advance. Health and safety measures, ports of call and offerings may change at any time without notice. On board venues, experiences, services and offerings may be modified or limited in capacity or availability, and are subject to restrictions, cancellation or closure without notice. See disneycruise.com/updates DREAM BY L U X U RY E S CAP E S

THE LU X FI LES B ARTE ND E R ’S H A NDS H A KE

PARI S

PA RIS

with a conscience The bartender’s handshake is a traditional greeting between hospitality workers, it might take the form of a signature cocktail or a simple shot. We shake hands with Hyacinthe Lescoët, co-founder of The Cambridge Public House in Paris. “The Cambridge Public House is a cocktail pub,” says co-founder Hyacinthe Lescoët about his bar in the city’s fashionable Le Marais district. “It’s got all the characteristics and traits of a traditional pub plus the knowledge of a cocktail bar.” This unique combination sees it align with renowned establishments like Caretaker’s Cottage in Melbourne, Dead Rabbit in New York City and The George in London. It’s not all about shaking up cocktails for Hyacinthe – respect for the local community is key. The Cambridge Community Plan has been in place since November 2022 with the aim to apply the sustainable development goals set by the United Nations to bartending. These goals are geared towards community and Hyacinthe is making his mark. “I’ve set up a running club where each running event is sponsored by a supportive brand that donates 500 Euros to be split evenly

The bar is dedicated to great music and even greater cocktails. “The staff are good friends and it’s always a treat to go there for the music, as well as the food and drinks on offer.” Expect classic highball whisky, sake and negronis among other unique libations.

Candelaria “Candelaria has got probably the most amazing team right now and their drinks are great.” A Parisian good-times bar, Candelaria is located out the back of a Mexican taqueria and serves margaritas, Mexican beer and mezcal.

“Sister Midnight is fantastic, and they do something very unique.” What this tiny, awardwinning cocktail bar does is host regular drag and burlesque performances each weekend.

Sherry Butt

50ml gin or vodka

1. Measure ingredients into a mixing glass.

25ml dry vermouth

2. Stir and pour into a prepared martini glass.

Lemon, olive, or pickled onion to garnish

3. Add your garnish of choice.

between a charity in Mexico and France.” This sense of community is reflected in Hyacinthe’s approach to bartending. “Be honest, respect everybody that you work with and make sure guests always leave with a smile. As for our approach to preparing drinks, we work with seasonal and mostly local ingredients, making sure we pay respect to the planet before we turn them into humble and approachable cocktails.” One of the cocktails in question? The wet martini, a sweeter and easy-drinking alternative to its drier cousin. D R E A M BY L U X U RY ES CA P ES

Fréquence

Sister Midnight

Cambridge Paris’ Wet Martini

H YACIN TH E ’S FAVOURITE PA RIS BA RS

Cocktails

A sultry cocktail bar that’s all leather upholstery and dim lighting, with a penchant for whiskies from all over the world and cocktails made from housemade ingredients. “Sherry Butt is one of my all-time favourites for a quiet drink at the bar.”

Bar 1802 You’ll find this bar hidden in Hotel Monte Cristo Paris, where over 1,000 types of rums and a Tasting Room pay homage to the popular spirit. “I’m a rum guy and this bar manages to be casual and super friendly despite its location in a high-end hotel.”

THE LU X FI LES CH EF ’S TA B L E

N E W YO RK C I T Y

N E W YOR K CI T Y

The Plaza New York is one of the world’s best-known classic luxury hotels. We meet The Palm Court’s Executive Chef Muhannad Al Ateem to discuss his food philosophy and the legendary Afternoon Tea at the Plaza.

The Palm Court’s Afternoon Tea

WORDS: FELICIA ARHONTISSAS

“Afternoon Tea at The Plaza is without a doubt a highlight – it’s a special treat that everyone ought to try. With four separate Afternoon Tea menus to choose from, including a children’s menu, which features Nutella sandwiches with candied hazelnuts, birthday cake macarons and pink lemonade, there’s something for everyone. All Afternoon Tea varieties feature freshly baked warm cranberry orange and truffle scones with Devonshire cream, lemon curd and house-made berry preserves, alongside a slew of high-quality loose-leaf teas. Along with the upscale variety of sandwiches, savories, warm scones, and delectable pastries, the overall experience gives the impression that you are in a whole different world, without actually leaving the heart of Manhattan.”

Muhannad Al Ateem’s passion for food began at 13 when he would watch cooking shows with his mother. Since then, he has created a name for himself in the culinary world, taking the helm at hotel restaurants for Four Seasons, InterContinental, The Ritz-Carlton, Rosewood Hotels and Fairmont. Now as Executive Chef for The Palm Court at The Plaza New York, Muhannad fully embodies the ethos of this Manhattan icon. “Working at The Plaza connects me to its history, I’m on a mission to carry on the legacy,” he says. “It’s a historical beacon that all generations look forward to visiting.” With over two decades of experience, Muhannad’s approach to food has boiled down to a very straightforward idea: balance. “It’s the overall components of ingredients, appearance, taste, nutritional benefits, uniqueness, and experience that make a dish. Let the dish speak for itself. I think the more natural and additive-free it is, the better. And locally sourced ingredients are key. I strongly believe that creating a farm-to-table menu makes a unique impact.” As for living and working in the city that never sleeps? “With its amazing food scene and vibrant nightlife, this city is bursting with culture and entertainment. When it comes to manmade wonders and natural green spaces, Central Park strikes the perfect balance; you can escape to this area from the bustling metropolis for a moment of calm and clarity.”

MUH A N N A D’S FAVOURITE N EW YORK C I T Y R ESTAU R ANTS

Spilling the tea

The Palm Court “Of course, the Palm Court in The Plaza is at the top of my list. I am passionate about this outlet for a reason – the lavish afternoon tea in the bustling city is a one-of-a-kind experience.”

Up Thai A ceiling of floating lanterns, an ever-changing menu and innovative cocktails are just the beginning at this Upper East Side Thai spot. The yum ma kar (eggplant salad) is off the charts.

Maya “They produce consistency,” says Muhannad about this Mexican joint. Maya serves dishes like slow-roasted pork carnitas with avocado puree and tuna tostadas alongside tequila tasting flights and eight varieties of margarita.

Zuma Authentic meets innovative at this modern Midtown Japanese restaurant. “They use traditional ingredients to make the dish authentic,” says Muhannad. Dishes like the barley misomarinated chicken oven roasted on cedar wood and the yellowtail hamachi sashimi are guaranteed to wow.

53 The cutting-edge design of 53 makes perfect sense given its location next to the Museum of Modern Art. Pan-Asian cuisine is as showstopping as the décor, with items including sumac king prawns, dry-aged ribeye with green papaya, and clay pots of black cod with jalapeno miso.

DREAM BY L U XU RY E S CAP E S

THE LU X FI LES WAY FI N D E R

M ELBOUR NE

Dinner and a show

A new type of Melbourne dinner theatre is popping up in the city’s fine diners, as flames, liquid nitrogen and even swords signal the arrival of your food and drinks. Paul Chai looks at the resurgence of gueridon, theatrical tableside, and barside, service. PHOTO G R A P H Y BY S A M A R A C LIFFOR D

M E L BO U RN E

My first experience of tableside theatrics was in Los Angeles when actor Harry Dean Stanton nearly wound up wearing my Caesar salad. I was dining at historic Italian joint Dan Tana’s in Hollywood where the famous salad is wheeled out on a squeaky trolley courtesy of a waiter in a suit sharp enough to open letters. The pungent, garlicky sauce was poured over the lettuce and croutons and then tossed higher than an A-lister’s salary. Stanton, who we could see nursing a drink just metres from us at Dan Tana’s oak bar, briefly disappeared from view in a flurry of flying vegetation; he was probably a safe distance from the culinary shenanigans but the sheer enthusiasm of our waiter made us all feel in some mild peril. This type of dinner theatre was popularised in France in the 19th century with the flaming crepe Suzette served at the Café

de Paris and named gueridon service after the small, wheeled trolley used. For a few minutes you are centre stage with much of the restaurant fermenting in their FOMO, and this flamboyant style of service is having a moment in Melbourne right now. That famous crepe Suzette recently reappeared on the menu of Gimlet at Cavendish House and chef and owner, Andrew McConnell, says it is proving popular. “For some people the appeal is the theatre, for many it’s the interaction with their waiter and for others I think it’s pure nostalgia,” Andrew says. “Individual guests love it but what’s really fantastic to see is the energy it creates across the whole bar.” It’s not new, Chinese fine diner Flower Drum’s toffee apple dessert has been around for years. Here, a tableside waiter spins gossamer threads of caramel into

a sugary bouffant that sits on top of deepfried apple fritters in caramel sauce with vanilla ice cream. The dessert requires the whole service team to be trained in the unique presentation. But it is on the increase according to another gueridon fan, the Speakeasy Group, with Melbourne bars like Boilermaker House, Nick and Nora’s and Eau de Vie. “Meaningful theatre is something that forms the foundation of what the Speakeasy Group is about, always trying to exceed guests’ expectations with a sense of escapism,” says co-owner and director Greg Sanderson. “Our service style is not subtle and it isn’t trying to be. The world is full of excellent at-home bartenders and cooks, it’s our job to add thrills, excitement and theatre to the dining and drinking experience for our guests, ultimately creating memories along the way.”

OPPOSITE: Nothing says special occasion like a Champagne tower at Nick and Nora’s. ABOVE: The bombe Alaska at Le Meridien’s Dolly has set social media alight. DREAM BY L U XU RY E S CAP E S

WAY FI N D E R

We take a look at some of the most fun gueridon antics in Melbourne: NI C K AND NO R A’S

Sabrage Champagne service Nick and Nora’s takes its inspiration from the bacchanalian bashes that happened post-Prohibition, and that means plenty of Champagne. Named after Dashiell Hammett’s fictional crime-solving, booze-loving duo, Nick and Nora Charles, the low-lit, high-concept hijinks includes Champagne towers, mists of liquid nitrogen and sabrage, the act of slicing the top off a Champagne bottle with a sabre. This showy start to a glass of bubbles is said to have been invented by Napoleon and his troops after returning victorious from battle and is a regular occurrence at the bar led by head bartender Sam Johnstone. Speakeasy Group co-owner Greg Sanderson says that sabrage tends to make guests engage more with each other whether they be colleagues, friends or total strangers. “The thing is, no-one actually needs to sabre a bottle of Champagne, but isn’t that exactly the point?” he says. “That it is luxe, celebratory, fun and as highly unnecessary as most fabulous things are.” Try also the nitrogen martini that arrives bubbling and smoking like a mini volcano and the “caviar bumps”, about a tablespoon of the decadent fish roe served directly onto your hand in the space between your thumb and forefinger.

L EE HO F O O K

Bang Bang chicken salad Victor Liong, founder of Lee Ho Fook, spent part of Melbourne’s lockdowns creating fun new dishes for when diners returned to his restaurant. One such creation was the Bang Bang chicken salad that he wanted to come with a side order of drama. Victor spent days practicing his plating skills so that the dish could be presented tableside, twirling the colourful plate and pouring dressing from a great height, like he remembered doing at the beginning of his career. “Around 15 years ago we used to do it a lot, stuff would get carved and presented at the table, things like salt-crusted spatchcock and steak tartare,” Victor says. Lee Ho Fook’s chicken salad uses retired egg-laying hens whose meat is full of flavour and more deeply textured. The salad has potatoes cooked with Szechuan peppers, jellyfish dressed in mustard oil, then different textural vegetables like celery, carrots and kohlrabi as well as classic flavours like spring onion, coriander and fried wonton skins for texture. The salad is then tossed tableside in a dressing of roasted sesame oil and chilli oil. “When you go somewhere like Zen in Singapore every course has two people tableside, plating up so it brings the kitchen into the dining room, which I think is nice,” he says.

M E L BO U RN E

D OL LY, L E ME RI D I E N M E L BOU R N E

G I ML ET AT CAVENDI S H HO U S E

Bombe Alaska

Crepe Suzette

At the Le Meridien Melbourne, the bombe Alaska has been riding a wave of Insta-celebrity since it was put on the menu earlier this year. “The restaurant is named Dolly after the building’s cinematic and theatrical history,” says General Manager Peter Minatsis. “This theme has been woven seamlessly into every aspect of the venue, including the names of Dolly’s ‘Artful Cocktails’ – named after past performers who graced the stage here – and the plush, chic decor reminiscent of a theatre’s backstage.” The dessert itself is a block of ice cream encased in meringue that is then torched by ladling over rum that has been set on fire. It is a popular Christmas dessert in France, the home of gueridon. “Guests love it when we put on a bit of a show with the gueridon service of torching the bombe Alaska table-side,” Peter says. “They love the combination of warm and cold from the ice cream and torched flavours, with the pillowy softness of the marshmallow. Best of all, every time the dessert is torched, the restaurant is filled with the aroma of toasted marshmallows.”

The idea for this dish came from Gimlet head chef Colin Mainds’ and Andrew McConnell’s love of grand Parisian bistros where tableside gueridon service provides theatre and flair through the art of flambée. At Gimlet, featherlight crepes are bathed in a sauce prepared with caramelised sugar, butter, orange juice, Grand Marnier and Cognac. At the table, the pan is set alight to bubble away, creating burnished edges that meld with Gimlet’s own vanilla bean ice cream. Mildura oranges are squeezed and zested, providing brightness to the nuances in the classic sauce. “It’s exactly the kind of offering that seems to captivate people whenever and wherever it’s offered,” says Andrew. Gimlet also does the Lotus Club Sazerac, a cocktail of Old Rip Van Winkle 13yo Rye, Jade 1901 absinthe, Peychaud’s and Angostura bitters, given the impressive liquid nitrogen treatment.

Le Meridien Melbourne

IMAGE TOP RIGHT: JO MCGANN.

Ready to explore?

From its rooftop pool bar with stately views across to Parliament House to the thoughtful selection of in-room books and minibar cocktails from The Everleigh, the new Le Meridien in Melbourne is playful, classy and centrally located in the Paris End of Bourke Street. The building was once a theatre and its former life is referenced in touches like the restaurant named Dolly and its café Intermission. Thoughtful touches abound, like the function room whose neon ceiling echoes the cartography contours of the city.

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THE LU X FI LES L U X U R IAT E

TR AV E L E S S AY

Moveable feast Trying local food, whether from a street stall or a Michelin-starred chef, reflects a local area’s culture, history and traditions and is a key part of why we travel. Jeremy Drake has lived off vending machine food in Tokyo, explored the best local restaurants in Bali and eaten canapes on a yacht in Sydney Harbour. He reflects on why food is so key to our travel experiences. ILLUSTR ATIONS BY K ATIE FORD

Food has always been the most tangible gateway to understanding another culture, its history, its nuances and its environment. Psychologically, it also enriches our experience and helps us get underneath a destination’s skin. From the alluring spices emanating from a steaming wok on the streets of Bangkok to kneading dough beneath a grapevine belonging to a smiling Calabrian grandmother in the Italian hillside, we become inextricably connected to a place by our food experiences and the people who help craft them. At some point in the last decade, the word “tourism” melted like a slice of cheese to the side of our global culinary adventures, and the concept of a getaway based solely around food was not just popular amongst holidaymakers; it became a recipe for printing money. For destinations, it’s used as a cornerstone marketing tool for them to celebrate the uniqueness of a quirky cuisine, like dining on horse meat in Uzbekistan or fried spiders in Cambodia; for tour operators, hotels and restaurants, it’s now become a necessary way for them to attract lucrative and competitive budgets – the United Nationals World Tourism Organisation estimates travellers spend about a third of their entire holiday budget just on food. According to a study by Luxury Escapes earlier this year, food tourism also ranked as the number one trend for Aussies deciding where to travel in 2023. And millennials are unashamedly leading the charge with a majority of them seeking local food experiences above anything else. These millennial travellers have started using their stomachs as compasses and effortlessly shifted a generation from casual food observers and consumers to active participants in the entire food process. Much of this is attributed by academics to the proliferation of

food vlogging on social media, YouTube and Netflix, which reached an unprecedented fever pitch during the pandemic. Once the coveted domain of Anthony Bourdain or Rick Stein, everyone can now be a food critic. Just like me, they can spend hours in a line chasing down the best barbeque ribs in Austin, Texas, at Franklin’s or brave a backstreet food tour in the dimly lit laneways of Hoi An, Vietnam, in search of that restaurant where Bourdain allegedly found the best-tasting banh mi on the planet. And, as the modern proverb goes, in these instances: “The iPhone must always eat first.” An entirely new industry of creators and influencers uses food tourism experiences like these to connect with like-minded gastronomical tourists and build legitimate, well-funded online careers. Associate Professor Richard Robertson from the University of Queensland explains that, unlike with other travel trends, food experiences are deeply personal and experiential in nature, and millennials, in particular, use them to craft these new online social identities. “The younger millennial travel market has become increasingly sophisticated about being able to create and share their own travel experiences online,” the former chef and author on food tourism trends says. “With the proliferation of social media and the ability of people to curate multiple identities on these different platforms, whether digitally mediated or face-to-face, food tourism has become a good way for people to craft that identify. It allows them to bond with these now-prolific online food travel communities, and what better way to draw attention to yourself than when you’re travelling in an exotic location and using the food experience you are having there as a hook.”

F O O D AN D TR AV E L

A new generation of tastemakers There’s no better place than Japan to test your tastebuds and engage your social media audience. It’s a veritable buffet of crazy and overwhelming food experiences at both ends of the spectrum. In Tokyo, a video of me trying to live off vending machine food for a day went viral, as did my 8,000-kilometre journey to try a famous egg sandwich. I’ve also sat in reverence as I watched Itamae Haraguchi (a sushi master) at Ginza Iwa restaurant apply 20 years of knife experience to a piece of raw tuna. While there are countless travel food influencers in 2023 for us all to follow, two true doyens stand head and shoulders above the rest. Mark Weins has amassed 10 million subscribers on YouTube and regularly clocks two million views on his food travel vlogs. At the same time, Mike Chen from Strictly Dumpling uses his casual and laconic style to bring videos like “24 Hours Eating ONLY at Michelin Restaurants in Singapore” to a relatable and authentic level. Closer to home, local foodie Sofia Levin saw early writing on the wall regarding food

tourism growth for Australian holidaymakers. The culinary journalist, founder of seasonedtraveller.com and prolific food vlogger says that even pre-Covid food tourism had taken off thanks to what she calls “the MasterChef effect”, but now we’re in an even more exciting time, where she says the restaurant is the new nightclub. “People now line up to get into new places, and they’re excited by it and want to be seen at them,” Sofia says. “And now, beyond YouTube or social media, I’ve noticed an increasing amount of chef and food personality-hosted tours coming up.” Whether your preferred tour is truffle hunting on Melbourne’s Mornington Peninsula with Red Hill Truffles, undertaking a 10-course Kebab and Curry walk through the frenetic streets of Mumbai with No Footprints Travel, or seeking out the real Porteño flavours of Buenos Aires with the famous Parrilla Food Tour Group, according to Associate Professor Richard Robertson each of these are all deeply sensory and psychological experiences. Richard even tells us that because of the well-documented impacts of taste and smell, most operators are now consciously timing

the most bespoke and memorable food experiences on tour to coincide with the exact moment of a predicted drop in the “holiday high” – which tends to wane two to three days after arrival in a destination. The timing of a food experience can keep guests on tour engaged for longer and dramatically enrich their memory of the holiday. Whether it’s the lingering smell of ginger and peanut oil at the bottom of a pan, the fragile geopolitical moment we find ourselves in or simply a vector for how we see our place in the world, Richard says Asia and Southeast Asia will continue to rise as the number one food tourism destination for Australian holidaymakers over the next decade. “Australia is an Anglo-Celtic country where our culinary traditions are stodgy,” he says. “They are not fit for purpose in terms of our climate. Contrast that with the diversity, the vibrancy, the freshness, the sunshine, the vitality of the Asian cuisines of Thailand, Vietnam or Indonesia. Australia is looking more towards Asia all the time, has an affinity to Asia for everything else we do, so food tourism allows us to express where we see our future.” DREAM BY L U X U RY E S CAP E S

THE LU X FI LES WAY FI N D E R

M A LDIVES

Isle be back

The Maldives can be a euphoric travel destination of white-sand wishes and blue lagoon dreams, but it is very important to pick the right island stay. Visitors don’t tend to travel much between the myriad atolls; this is the ultimate fly-and-flop getaway where you don’t want to worry about a thing. For me that meant a variety of room types to choose from, a wide selection of dining options so my tastebuds didn’t get bored and a host of activities for when just lazing around on a deck chair became too much. The Pullman Maldives Maamutaa, an Accor property that was the first fully inclusive Pullman resort, ticked all these boxes.

The tiny island of Maamutaa in the Indian Ocean offers all-inclusive luxury that cares about its guests just as much as it cares about the planet. Kate Webster escapes to the Pullman Maldives Maamutaa’s eco-luxe oasis.

The main resort is set amidst 18 hectares of lush tropical flora and fauna, a mini-forest of carefully planted and ethically sustained plants, all surrounding an abundant natural lake. Here you will find scattered Beach Villas and Pool Villas tucked away in their own private oasis. Stepping off the island and onto the boardwalks over one of the region’s largest and deepest lagoons, you will find the luxurious Overwater Villas including two exclusive Aqua Villas featuring bedrooms submerged beneath the waters. For the ultimate experience, the Royal Suite is a resort within a resort, providing complete

privacy and indulgence including personalised services. An added bonus at Pullman Maldives is that it is part of the Accor Hotels Planet 21 program which aims to provide a positive hospitality experience. Committed to redefining the boundaries, the Planet 21 program demonstrates the Group’s ambitious goals based on four strategic priorities: work with its employees, involve its customers, innovate with its partners and work with local communities. This left me with a guest experience that not only provided enjoyment but did so in an educational, sustainable and environmentally responsible way.

M AL DI V E S

A window to the ocean world I was left to my watery wonderland in an Overwater Pool Villa and immediately found myself on the back deck that stretched out into the blue abyss. It was not long before my neighbours popped by to greet me. First, was a small white-tip reef shark who seemed keen on tormenting the parrot fish that had gathered at the bottom of the ladder from my deck to the ocean. The visits continued throughout my stay and I soon became addicted to what I can only describe as Maldivian TV: glass panels embedded in the floor of my overwater villa beside the bed. These real-life windows to the ocean world provided a look into the action on the coral reef below. Colourful fish meandered about, picking at the coral reef like it was a buffet. The occasional ray would float past before dancing off into the ocean. While the viewing of the Maldivian TV was spectacular from the comfort of my villa, it was soon time to dive under the ocean surface. I boarded a Maldivian dhoni, a traditional wooden sailing vessel, that sailed me past uninhabited islands scattered like jewels across blue velvet, to my dive site. Descending into the warm waters, I was soon surrounded by an amphitheatre of coral walls teeming with sea life. If the glass panels in the floor of my villa was Maldivian TV, then this was the big screen IMAX blockbuster.

On the boat ride back to the resort, the resident marine biologist at Pullman Maldives explained to me the procedures and care the property takes to ensure guests are well-educated and understand how vital it is to protect the surrounding environment. As part of the Planet 21 program, the property takes steps to protect the environment. Even in the kitchen, there is a ban on the use of overfished species and there is a completely organic garden on the island. The restaurant Phat Chameleon is one of the region’s first organic, vegetarian and vegan restaurants, set amidst a vegetable and herb garden. From the moment you arrive on this island, the Pullman Maldives Maamutaa makes sure you haven’t got a care in the world. Each detail is meticulously crafted to cater to transform a holiday into a timeless memory. Whether basking in the sun, exploring the vibrant marine life, or indulging in sumptuous dining, this all-inclusive resort promises an escape of unparalleled grandeur in the heart of the Maldives.

OPPOSITE: The indulgent overwater bungalows offer privacy and seclusion. THIS PAGE: The resort has one of the region’s largest lagoons (above); the Pullman’s overwater rooms have glass-panelled floors, or “Maldivian TV” (left).

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M AL DI V E S

IMAGES: PULLMAN MALDIVES MAAMUTAA.

WAY FI N D E R

Pullman Maldives Maamutaa Situated in the southernmost part of the Maldives, the Pullman Maldives Maamutaa is a secluded paradise surrounded by breathtaking natural beauty. Its location on the Gaafu Alifu Atoll ensures privacy and exclusivity, far removed from the bustle of everyday life. Guests are treated to stunning panoramas of sunsets that paint the horizon in a riot of colours, casting a spell of serenity over the island. The Suvadiva Spa takes guests on a journey of relaxation with its indulgent treatments inspired by local traditions. Overwater treatment rooms offer stunning views, enhancing the sense of rejuvenation. Adrenaline junkies can partake in an array of water sports, from kayaking to jet skiing, providing a thrilling contrast to the island’s serene atmosphere. The culinary voyage at Pullman Maldives Maamutaa offers the all-day dining restaurant, Mélange, showcasing global flavours against an oceanic backdrop. A transition from day to night was seamlessly orchestrated at The Hub, from morning’s artisanal coffee to evening’s Ready to crafted cocktails. Amid lush greenery, Phat dive in? Chameleon celebrates Asian cuisines. The poolside bar and grill, Sol Rising, epitomises the island’s casual elegance. Or you can delve into Maldivian culture with island visits and local performances, offering a glimpse into the rich heritage of the region.

ABOVE: The Pullman Maldives Maamutaa has a natural lake at its heart. RIGHT: The resort is also big on sustainability and has a wide range of dining options for guests from all-day dining to crafted cocktails.

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THE LU X FI LES I N SP I R ATI O N

Do more Maldives dreaming online

Be inspired by wanderlust-worthy destinations, traveller’s tales and the latest travel trends online at Dream by Luxury Escapes. luxuryescapes.com/inspiration

Heaven on earth: the most luxurious resorts in the Maldives From world-class wellness programs to five-star hospitality and heavenly villas and grand residences, discover some of the very best resorts in the Maldives. Just when you thought the Maldives couldn’t get any dreamier, these ultra-luxurious resorts take the splendour up a notch.

Get your Maldives inspiration here

Insider access: discover COMO, the Maldives’ resort with a focus on understated luxury

Ultimate indulgence: the Maldives’ best all-inclusive resorts

The best luxury spa experiences in the Maldives

Villas shaped like fishing boats, a wellnessled philosophy and movies by starlight: this is boutique luxury in one of the most spectacular destinations on earth.

Escape to a place where the water is crystal clear and the drinks are free flowing with our guide to the Maldives’ best allinclusive resorts.

For true indulgence in secluded locations surrounded by nothing but turquoise waters and lush, tropical jungle, these are the top luxury spa experiences in the Maldives.

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THE LU X FI LES O N E OF A K IND

B R A ZI L

Belmond’s Hotel das Cataratas blends luxury and heritage with the opportunity to experience a South American natural wonder without the crowds.

WORDS BRETT ATKINSON. IMAGES BELMOND HOTEL.

Legend of the falls

BR AZ I L

The lowdown Since 1958, one of Brazil’s most celebrated hotels has been the perfect location for exploring Iguazu Falls. Portuguese-style architecture and a distinctive, blush-pink exterior combine with lush gardens, towering palm trees housing resident toucans, and a unique location offering private access to experience Iguazu’s dramatic waterfall.

The highlight The only hotel in Brazil’s Iguazu National Park offers exclusive First Light walking experiences to explore the falls before the park opens to outside visitors. In the company of authoritative local guides, you can navigate a clifftop walking path framed by the jungle to a viewing platform right above the famed Garganta do Diabo (Devil’s Throat).

The details Hotel das Cataratas Iguaçu National Park, Foz do Iguaçu, Paraná, Brazil

The locale

The menu

Hotel das Cataratas is a 20-minute drive from Foz do Iguacu Airport. Brazil’s international gateway to the falls has frequent flights linking to Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo with LATAM. From the hotel’s cloistered terrace bar, it’s just 300 metres across manicured lawns to the plunging falls and views across to Argentina.

Deliciously unfamiliar Amazonian fruits and freshly baked pão de queijo cheese bread are the highlights of breakfast buffets, while traditional Churrasco barbecues with steak and seafood feature at the poolside Ipê Grill. Highlights of the more formal Itaipu restaurant blend Brazilian and Italian culinary traditions. Adjourn to Bar Tarobá for cachaça tasting experiences.

The abode Rooms and suites reflect the hotel’s colonial style. Marble bathrooms are adorned with Portuguese-style azulejo tiles, sustainable bath products are infused with forest botanicals, while heritage lithographs of Brazilian flora and fauna feature amid the hotel’s elegant décor. Deluxe Falls View rooms showcase sunset vistas diffused through shimmering banks of twilight spray.

The verdict Experience luxury, history and brilliant dining at one of South America’s classic hotels, partnered with the convenience of personalised access to the grandeur of one of the planet’s most impressive natural wonders.

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THE LU X FI LES WAY FI N D E R

S WEDISH L APL AN D

Cool runnings

THIS PAGE: The supercars have about 300-600 spikes on each tyre. OPPOSITE: Drivers can start on less powerful cars and build up to a Lamborghini or Porsche.

SW E DI SH L AP L AN D

For a brief period each year a frozen lake in the Arctic Circle is turned into a winter wonderland for car enthusiasts to slip and slide supercars across the tundra. Julie Hunter from Ultimate Driving Tours takes us behind the wheel. Each winter near Arjeplog in northern Sweden, a team of professionals waits patiently as Lake Uddjaur slowly freezes over. Once it is thick enough to take the weight of a vehicle, the real work begins. With more than four decades of ice-driving experience between them, the team of ten gets to work sculpting several replica Formula 1 tracks into the frozen lake. Metre by metre the team replicates famous raceways like YAS Marina in Abu Dhabi, Circuit Paul Ricard in France, Silverstone in the UK and Sepang in Malaysia. They also set up technical tracks, ovals and circles for newer drivers to practice on. It’s here you take supercars out on the ice, on rare circuits that are so challenging that you feel your skills grow and evolve as a driver. As a tour guide, one of the best feelings is to take travellers on unique driving experiences, and it doesn’t get more challenging, or original, than tackling an icy Formula 1 lookalike in a specially modified supercar (there are about 300-600 spikes on each tyre). As part of our tour, we have everyone

arrive in Stockholm and take a regional airline up to a small city just outside the Arctic Circle, and from there it is still over an hour and a half to the village where the ice-driving facility is located. It is all very remote. That is all part of the adventure. If you want a unique experience, it is often in a place that is not easy to get to – it’s a reward for the most dedicated of travellers. At around 3,000 acres and over 50 kilometres of track, this is the largest ice-driving facility in the world, and it’s designed to be a training ground. Beginners start on basic circuits, under the tutelage of qualified instructors, before moving on to more complicated circuits. The four oval tracks are designed to perfect the “Scandinavian flick”, a technique used in rallying and ice driving/racing to induce an oversteer using weight transfer that carries a vehicle through turns while reducing speed. The two circle courses are designed to teach drivers how to maintain a constant drift.

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WAY FI N D E R

SW E DI SH L AP L AN D

Getting behind the wheel We offer a four-day experience that includes two days on the ice. On the first day of the ice driving, guests warm up and get the hang of it in less powerful cars such as the Alpine A110. On day two, the group advances to more powerful vehicles, such as the Porsche GT3, or perhaps a Lamborghini Huracan or Ferrari 488 for something extra special. All the main car manufacturers have testing facilities nearby, so when you are driving to the circuit in the morning you’re likely to pass a Mercedes or Jaguar test facility where you might see camouflage-wrapped vehicle prototypes being tested in cold conditions before they’re released to the public. Visiting the Swedish Lapland is like falling into a fairy tale, where snow-covered alpine trees fringe deserted roads and mountains rise up in the distance. It’s an otherworldly experience. So outside of the driving, we also like

Ultimate Driving Tours

to offer guests the opportunity to experience this stunning destination with local activities such as husky sledding and snowmobiling. Both experiences are amazing. There’s nothing more exhilarating than zipping across a frozen lake at 100 kilometres an hour on a snowmobile before heading into a frosty forest, or to experience a husky-powered sled gliding silently through the pristine snowcapped trees. What’s more, because these moments often happen at either sunrise and sunset due to how short the days are, you are privy to seeing a sky dashed with incredible pink and yellow hues. Absolute magic. In the evenings it’s back to the Silverhatten Hotel for some time in the outdoor sauna or Jacuzzi, both set out in the snow. And if the night sky is clear, you can see the lights of the aurora borealis dancing above you.

Ready to explore?

The ice-driving tour will return for Swedish winter 2024. Meanwhile, the summer signature experience is the European supercar tour teamed with a visit to the Monaco F1 Grand Prix. Experience the world’s best supercars on Europe’s incredible driving roads, from jawdropping alpine passes to fast-paced autostradas and meandering country backroads. The excitement continues aboard a superyacht for the jewel in the crown of F1 – the Grand Prix of Monaco.

FROM TOP: The circuits are perfect icy replicas of famous F1 tracks; drivers get to test their skills. LEFT: Visiting Swedish Lapland is like a fairy tale, with more than just cars to look at.

D R E A M BY L U X U RY ES CA P ES

THE LU X FI LES L U X U RY8

Deck the stalls 1

Frosty air laced with the scent of cinnamon spice, strings of twinkling lights and carols echoing into the night. Whether you love Christmas as much as Buddy in Elf or have more in common with the Grinch, it’s hard to resist the festive cheer of Europe’s Christmas markets.

Vienna, Austria

Munich, Germany

Innsbruck, Austria

This quintessential winter wonderland is home to one of the largest Christmas markets in the world, Christkindlmarkt am Rathausplatz. Over four million visitors flock here yearly to experience the heartwarming festivities. Stay warm with a cup of steaming glühwein (spiced mulled wine), pick up a bag of freshly roasted chestnuts and try a sugar-coated bauernkrapfen (donut). Afterwards, feast your eyes on the red heart-shaped lights strung from the giant Tree of Hearts.

Nibble from a bag of candied almonds still warm from the pan as you stroll through Munich’s famous Christmas market. Star-shaped paper lanterns glow while top-rated food trucks line up ready to serve hungry patrons. Visitors flit between countless market stalls for baubles, ceramics, wooden toys and jewellery, before gathering around the town hall Christmas tree, covered with over 2,500 festive lights.

Innsbruck’s medieval alleys are crisscrossed with strings of lights to signify the return of the festive markets. If there’s one thing you must try during this time, it’s the delicious Kiachl donut. Served only at Christmastime, this fried delight is served sweet with a dollop of cranberry sauce and a dusting of icing sugar – or savoury with a side of sauerkraut.

Salzburg, Austria

Lucerne, Switzerland Lucerne’s old town is transformed with traditional wooden stalls that beckon onlookers with everything from handcrafted gifts to Christmas ornaments and sweet treats. Peruse the town square with a warm mug of glühwein in hand, pausing to admire the swirling Christmas carousel – ideal if you have little ones.

Budapest, Hungary

Prague, Czech Republic

For something that veers from the ultra-traditional, Budapest delivers the Christmas goods. Bundle up and head to Basilica, where technicolour lights are projected onto the church façade in a spectacular light show and an ice-skating rink is centred around a Christmas tree. A festival staple in Budapest is the cylinder-shaped chimney cake – try it topped with vanilla, cinnamon or cocoa.

Swap your mug of mulled wine for grog, the Czech version of a hot toddy made with rum, lemon and sugar. This is a sure-fire way to keep away winter’s chill while you’re checking out the traditional nativity scenes and openair concerts. Hungry? Fragrant garlic flatbread, sausages fresh off the grill and crepes oozing with warm Nutella will satisfy any craving.

The origins of Salzburg’s Christmas markets stretch back to the 15th century. Bundle up and follow the sounds of carolling towards a host of familyfriendly events including sing-along choirs, a nativity scene and traditional wind-instrument performances. Don’t miss out on handmade spiced gingerbread or a gooey raclette toastie.

Tallinn, Estonia In Tallinn’s medieval old town you’ll find over 60 stalls selling handmade wreaths, local honey, sheepskin rugs and handmade Christmas ornaments. Kids can expect Santa in his sleigh, a cheery merry-go-round and Estonia’s largest Christmas tree.

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CA M B O D I A

Glow tide A unique underwater bioluminescent light show is just one highlight of this remote Cambodian resort that also shines a light on the local community. Jonathan Evans discovers the maritime magic of Song Saa Private Island. P HOTO GR APHY BY CHRISTOPHER WIS E

CAM BO DI A

Not every resort asks you, several weeks before arrival, your favoured cuisine should you find yourself marooned on a remote island. But few oceanside getaways are anything like Song Saa Private Island, the stunning scenic hideaway neighbouring Cambodia’s Koh Rong island. It is, in fact, two islands connected by a footbridge; Song Saa means “the sweethearts” in Khmer. Formerly known as “Sibling Island”, it refers to the folkloric Koh Ouen (“young sister”) and Koh Bong (“older brother”). A bumpy 007-style speedboat ride from Sihanoukville port launches my wife and me into this otherworldly idyll of sustainable luxury, founded in 2012 by pioneering conservationists Melita Koulmandas and Rory Hunter. Everywhere you turn in this isolated haven, with its thatched-roof villas, is infused with uniqueness and distinction. Guests set their watches forward by one hour to synchronise

with “island time”, prolonging sunset – a glorious purple light show best admired from exquisite fusion eatery Vista Bar & Restaurant. Song Saa’s own wet-season microclimate is drier than that of the step-off point of Sihanoukville’s, exemplified by drizzly nights and the occasional sprinkle of morning rain. Sushumna Sanctuary, at the end of the winding Koh Ouen walkway, is the most calming outdoor spa I’ve experienced. As my therapist Sarit kneaded my aching body with jasmine oil, I gazed at uninhabited Koh Bong – an island left to nature’s own devices – as crabs scuttled across the shallow-water rocks below our feet. As with all the world’s finest hotels, Song Saa’s staff pull off the uncanny knack of knowing what you’re doing at all hours. They ask about activities you undertook earlier that day – a skill Cambodians are especially adept at perfecting.

OPPOSITE: Song Saa is an oceanside getaway, an otherworldly idyll of sustainable luxury. FROM TOP: Relaxing by the beach; the overwater bungalows that are drawing travellers to this part of Cambodia.

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WAY FI N D E R

Getting away but giving back The resort also has a huge sustainability focus. Fijian-born Kiwi Donald Wong, the resort’s GM, has taken the reins as manager and brand ambassador of Song Saa Collective – an umbrella name for the Private Island, Reserve and Song Saa Foundation. Helped by a revamped marketing strategy, social influencers and tour operators, Covid was mercifully kind to Song Saa, with the owners determined to remain open. Its über-desirable situation for socially distanced escapes ensured high occupancy as Cambodian borders remained open. Donald neither recruited nor trained new staffers; instead, trainees joined from Siem Reap’s Sala Baï hospitality school. This resort inspires fervent worker loyalty and many staff – Cambodian, Thai and Filipino – have worked here since it opened. As Filipino guest experience manager Harold Jubinal puts it, “I love my home country, but I consider Cambodia my second home.”

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: enjoy the incredible sunsets; the resort tables are made from sunkenboat wood; staff are loyal and long-serving. OPPOSITE: the resort is set on a remote archipelago with shallow water, coral reefs, sea turtles and dolphins.

The Song Saa Collective initiative aims to improve life for marine and human inhabitants of the archipelago. Community co-ordinator Chhun Sideth tells me sea turtles are released to freedom, coral reefs restored and even dolphins are protected near Sihanoukville port. “We strongly believe in giving back to local communities,” says Donald. “A stay here is not just about being at a luxury resort. You’re directly contributing to the ethos of Song Saa, and the ethical charter of conservation and supporting locals.” Case in point: the collective installed rainwater-harvesting facilities and filters in villages.

CAM BO DI A

Song Saa Private Island Stay at Song Saa

It also brings vital medical and food relief to villagers in sparsely populated Prek Svay, known for its two waterfalls; now, international holidaymakers come to enjoy its simple new resorts and white-sand beaches. Schools and a pagoda were built in an area where electricity coverage was previously limited. Local women remove plastic waste washed up from the mainland in beach cleanups. One year, in typically resourceful style, they upcycled the trash into womenswear for a fashion show. Likewise, resort tables are made from sunken-boat wood; Song Saa

Get ready for the ultimate private island experience. Spend your days diving into the private pool or plunging straight into the ocean from your Overwater Villa, drying off on your sundeck or daybed before rinsing and repeating. Embrace inner peace with private yoga classes, personal training sessions or spellbinding spa rituals before dining on sumptuous locally sourced Khmer dishes with sweeping views at the Vista Bar and Restaurant.

helped fishermen relocate to make way for the resort, and their marine ecosystem was preserved. Our final engagement was the bioluminescence trip – Song Saa’s protected marine area being the only place in the Gulf of Thailand where this underwater firefly show takes place. Snorkelling under the 9pm darkness, while rewarding, isn’t mandatory; instead, you’re treated to phosphorescent plankton darting, leaping or glowing through the waters, a sight even more beautiful when clouds obscure the moon.

At Driftwood’s intimate bar we reflected on a one-of-a-kind trip with a Chilean merlot and French pinot noir. By the time we retired to the villa, happily inebriated on Song Saa’s soulful spirit and visual wonders, a torchbrandishing security guard guided us to the safety of our villa. In its decade-plus of designing dream vacations – it just became Cambodia’s first awardee of the prestigious B-Corp Certification – this celebrated resort has perfected every single aspect of the art of hospitality. DREAM BY L U XU RY E S CAP E S

THE LU X FI LES O N E N IG H T IN

O NE NI G HT I N. . .

Bangkok With its grand temples and palaces, fiery food scene, designer shopping and array of luxury hotels, Bangkok is a tourist hotspot. This vibrant party city never sleeps and rewards exploration after dark.

Here is your planner for a perfect night in Bangkok. 6pm Rooftop tipples Blessed with tropical weather and river breezes, Bangkok takes advantage of this allure with soaring sunset views at one of the largest collections of rooftop bars in Asia. Practically every hotel tower competes for the happiest hour in the skies, but none take it higher than the Standard Hotel, which opened last year in Thailand’s tallest building, Mahanakhon Tower. Boasting Thailand’s highest deck, with 360-degree views, the Sky Beach bar hosts world-famous DJs, 360-degree views and the Sky Walk, a glass walkway for daring drinkers who want to look the 310 metres straight to the ground. The hotel also has marvellous Mexican at Ojo restaurant on the Standard’s top two floors. There is even a special bar crawl celebrating the hotel’s first anniversary, with six drinks and bites at four of its chic outlets for 1980 baht, through the end of 2023.

Visit The Standard

7pm Time for Thai

9pm Shop til you drop

This is Bangkok – so it’s time for spicy local dishes with some upmarket flair. The word is out on Chef Thitid “Tonn” Tassanakajohn’s Le Du, ranked No 1 by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurant Awards and often booked out weeks ahead. But the alternative is his new restaurant Nusara, in a renovated four-storey shophouse with billion-dollar views over golden Wat Pho, one of Bangkok’s most beautiful temples. Guests get a kitchen tour, Champagne and caviar in the rooftop lounge, before diving into a set menu of twisted Thai classics like Blue Swimmer crab curry with betel leaf and horseshoe crab roe. Nusara debuted at No 3 on the Asia’s 50 Best List – the highest newcomer ever.

Bangkok is a shopping paradise, with swanky malls, like EmQuartier, and street stalls lining Sukhumvit and Silom, while Chatuchak Weekend Market sprawls over 15,000 booths – but that’s a weekend, daytime marvel. For your nighttime shopping fix try Rot Fai Market (Train Market). The original shut in COVID; this new version has the same night bazaar buzz, with food, clothes, trinkets and vintage curios, and is much more conveniently located right in the city, served by the Cultural Centre MRT underground subway station.

THIS PAGE: The cocktails-in-the-sky vibes at The Standard’s Sky Beach bar (top) and the newcomer Nusara overlooking the golden roofs of Wat Pho. OPPOSITE: The colourful tents of the Rot Fai night markets (main photo); the sleek bar at Vesper (top) and dancing the night awat at Sing Sing.

BAN GKO K

10pm Mixing it up

11pm Club life

The name may sound familiar, Vesper is the potent drink favoured by James Bond after all. This secret-agent-inspired Bangkok bar has a classic London look in lively Silom district, and ranked No 12 on Asia’s 50 Best Bars list in 2023; try the banana pancake sour for something truly original. A more laid-back, luxurious vibe permeates Smalls, a wonderfully transformed shophouse by the legendary David Jacobson, famed for his landmark Q Bar in Vietnam and Bangkok, as well as a photography career shooting Hollywood and rock stars. David is the oldschool host, offering classics, and Danny is a rising star of Asian mixology. The joint specialises in live jazz most nights.

Bangkok loves a party, but even amid ample competition, Sing Sing stands out as the anything-goes cabaret. Designed by brilliant Australian Ashley Sutton (Dragonfly in Hong Kong, Darling Darling in Fremantle and Tokyo and Bangkok’s Iron Fairies) he outdid himself with this decadent coliseum of erotic art, costumes and flames. Expect regular guest DJs and extravagant theme nights.

WORDS RON GLUCKMAN. IMAGES: TOP, VESPER BANGKOK, RIGHT, YUPIYAN VIA GETTY IMAGES.

12am Late-night snack Bangkok never sleeps, or stops eating, and you are never more than around the corner from some aromatic street stall. You can get anything you desire at Khao Tom Bowon, a late-night dining emporium in Phra Nakhon; the raw crab egg salad is worth staying up late for.

1am Keep the party going Those who never want the night to end often end up in Wong’s Place, a dark, dingy watering hole formerly run by two brothers (the Wongs) with an epic collection of vintage vinyl and music videos. Patrons help themselves to bottles, leaving bills on the bar top. It’s the ultimate final stop on an epic night out in Bangkok. DREAM BY L U X U RY E S CAP E S

THE LU X FI LES WAY FI N D E R

SY D NE Y

Eternal beauty Set in the lovingly restored Department of Education and Agriculture sandstone building, Capella Sydney is passing on Sydney’s secrets, sharing First Nations art and offering the deepest of deep tissue massages. Local writer Kate Hennessey checks in. PHOTO GR APHY BY TIMOTHY K AY E

SYDN E Y

I can count on one finger the number of hotel lobbies in Sydney that I would suggest for a meet up with artsy interstate or overseas friends: Capella Sydney. Most out-oftowners have done the harbour-view hustle on previous trips so the fact that the ex-Department of Education and Agriculture building, circa 1915, is tucked a few blocks back from Circular Quay, in what Capella Hotels and Resorts has dubbed “the sandstone precinct”, makes it an even better insider call. It took Make Architects seven years to meticulously convert this grand, heritage-listed building into Capella’s newest outpost. The 192-room hotel is Singaporean-based Capella’s seventh venture, with hotels opening in Taipei, Kyoto, South Korea, Maldives and Riyadh in the next few years, joining the portfolio in Singapore, China, Vietnam, Thailand and Bali. Capella Sydney wastes no time in making a statement. The gleaming brass boxes that flank the vestibule still have the original “directory” and “benefactors” lettering but the boxes no longer list the bureaucratic powers that be. In a stroke of site-specific genius, they’re now occupied by stunning prints by First Nations artist, Judy Watson. Two of Watson’s canvasses soar above the reception desks too, while designs by proud Gumbaynggirr/Bundjalung man Otis Hope Carey creep across the mirrors in McRae Bar like unruly vines. But it’s the 19-piece pulsating sculpture dangling from the lobby’s glass ceiling that stops me in my tracks. Created by Amsterdam art duo, Studio Drift, it looks as if giant luminous blooms are puffing open and shut but when I stand directly beneath the fractal folds as they expand, it’s more like seeing a creature from the deep sea. The lobby’s seven-metre-high living green walls chirrup by night with crickets while two fig trees evoke the courtyard of a sumptuous Moroccan riad.

MAIN: The Department of Education Building dates back to 1915 and has now been lovingly restored by Capella. RIGHT: Capella Sydney is the group’s seventh venture, and first in Australia.

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WAY FI N D E R

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From here to Eternity The serene guest-only Living Room showcases so many meditative ceramic vessels, it could be mistaken for a gallery space. I’m treated to the Capella “ritual” here, where a culturist (equal parts concierge, butler and mind-reader) serves a cleansing vinegary brew made by Ziggy’s Wildfoods and tells the redemptive story of Arthur Stace, known as Mr Eternity because of his habit of writing the word “Eternity” in chalk around the city until his death in 1967. In telling these lesser-known histories, Capella is introducing guests to the side of Sydney we won’t find on every tourist brochure in town, and leaning into its inheritance of the education building. Relaxing in the Living Room, I realise how deep the brand’s fixation on quality, and detail, goes. For some guests, that realisation may come as they slide into the buttery softness of the “Capella grey” Frette linen or take a dip in the 20-metre-long indoor pool – also glass-roofed. Or it may be that they share a whole roasted duck at a table in the

hotel’s French-inspired restaurant, Brasserie 1930, the fifth outing by the chef-sommelier duo of Brent Savage and Nick Hildebrant (of Bentley, Monopole and Yellow fame). For me, evidence that Capella never misses a beat is the immaculate playlists compiled by MAV, a London-based music consultancy that also soundtracks Soho House, Gordon Ramsay’s restaurants and Hotel Es Vivè in Ibiza. While other hotels may put their spa somewhere dimly lit, Auriga Spa occupies half of Capella’s sixth floor. In the spacious wood-panelled room I enter for my New Moon massage, natural light pours in through yet another glass ceiling. This floor was previously an art gallery but, despite the risk that guests may not warm to the unorthodox amount of light, Capella went with the flow of the space. There’s a sauna, a steam room and an ice station to chill down, while the “experience shower” gives you the option to bathe in water as well as red, purple, green or ice-blue

light, depending on your mood. Indigenousinspired treatments include Connect to Country, which uses stones gathered with permission from First Nations Elders, such as Mookaite from Western Australia, Green Marble from the Pilbara and Azoria Gold from Queensland. Body scrubs use native rosella and rainforest essential oils, while the enzyme peels utilise the exfoliating powers of finger lime caviar. An eye mask blocks the sunlight during one of the deepest deep-tissue massages I’ve had in years, using fragrant Synthesis Organics products from Byron Bay. On exit, the light makes the space feel clean and fresh. For therapists accustomed to working in dim-lit spaces, Auriga’s brightness helped Capella to hire some of the city’s best. “People come to Australia to experience the light and the sun,” says Anthony Metcalfe, Director of Rooms. “But that doesn’t mean they need to be outside by a pool roasting in the sun.”

SYDN E Y

LEFT: Wellness is a big part of the Capella Sydney offering. BELOW: The hotel is keen to promote First Nation’s art (top) and has soundtracks from MAV music consultancy that does Soho House and Gordon Ramsay’s restaurants in London.

Capella Sydney

This heritage-listed icon welcomes guests inside for the very first time in decades, setting a high standard not only for luxury accommodation, but for local cuisine and cultural immersion with its team of “culturists”. Balancing storied architectural features with a contemporary design aesthetic, Capella Sydney celebrates the Australian panorama through its interiors, location and experiences.

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INSIDER: HAWAII

WORDS RACHEL NG. IMAGE: LUCAS – STOCK.ADOBE.COM.

Formed by volcanic activity over millions of years, the Hawaiian Islands jut out of the Pacific Ocean like a mirage. In one of the world’s most remote archipelagos, skyscrapers are steps from white-sand beaches and majestic volcanoes are shrouded in fog. The islands’ diverse landscapes – craggy sea cliffs drop dramatically into the ocean and forests are thick with ferns – is one of the major draws for adventure-seeking travellers. Visitors love hiking through verdant trails, zip-lining over waterfalls, diving with sharks, snorkelling with turtles and surfing legendary swells. Most visitors pick between Oahu,

Kauai, Maui and the island of Hawaii, each with its own distinct personality ranging from bustling metropolis to laid-back island vibe. But regardless of which island you end up on, you’ll still be treated to pristine powdery beaches, crystal-blue waters, kilometres of trails, hearty plate lunches and the locals’ warm aloha spirit.

Here is our insider guide to the perfect Hawaii holiday. DREAM BY L U X U RY E S CAP E S

I N SI D E R

Drinking and dining La Mer, Oahu BAR L EATHER AP RON

Taking inspiration from a mural by HungarianAmerican avant-garde artist Ilonka Karasz, the décor at La Mer is full of whimsy, dotted with images of peacocks, doves and lotus ponds set within an elegant Chinese garden. The Neo-Classic French menu is also a work of art, melding classic French techniques with Asian ingredients, resulting in dishes like “Big Island” kampachi (fish) tartare with a fennel velouté glacé and roasted duck breast with glazed daikon. Photo: Halekulani.

Bar Leather Apron, Oahu Bar Leather Apron, a handsome, low-lit Japanese-inspired spot in downtown Honolulu, was recently crowned the most outstanding bar in the country by the James Beard Foundation. In addition to having one of the most extensive whisky collections in Hawaii, the craft bar also creates inventive concoctions like matcha old fashioned and an award-winning E Ho‘o Pau Mai Tai, made with raisin-infused El Dorado, coconut water syrup, spiced orgeat, lime and ‘ōhi‘a blossom honey. Photo: John Hook.

LA MER

Merriman’s in Waimea, Hawaii island

Duke’s, Oahu

D UK E ’S

A hot spot for locals and tourists alike, Duke’s $25 all-you-can-eat brunch buffet is a crowd-pleaser with made-to-order omelettes, banana pancakes and coconut syrup, house-made granola, Portuguese sausage and, of course, fried rice. A Waikiki institution for nearly 20 years, the beachfront restaurant is also a great dinner spot, with live music, ocean views, and hearty dishes like huli huli chicken and slow-roasted prime rib. Be sure to save room for the famous Hula Pie with chocolate cookie crust, macadamia nut ice cream, hot fudge, toasted mac nuts and whipped cream. Photo: Duke’s.

The flagship restaurant of chef Peter Merriman, one of the original founders of Hawaii Regional Cuisine, is leading the way in sustainability. Fruit and herbs are picked from the restaurant’s onsite garden, and most of the seafood, meat and produce are sourced from the islands. Set within a pineapple-yellow Hawaiian plantation building, the restaurant’s three-course set menu stays true to Hawaiian cuisine, with dishes like Hawaiian-style shoyu poke, kālua pig quesadilla, macadamia nut–crusted fish and a tangy lilikoi (passionfruit) mousse. Photo: Merriman’s Hawaii.

H AWAI I

Mama’s Fish House, Maui One of the most sought-after reservations in Maui, Mama’s Fish House, delivers some of the best, freshest seafood in town. The menu lists where the fish came from and, in some cases, the name of the fisherman who caught it. For example, the mahi-mahi, caught by Joel Lohr trolling along Maui’s north shores, was crusted in sesame-rice and served with kalua pork fried rice, while the ono, caught along the sea cliffs of Molokai by Scott Kinzer, is topped in a garlic, wine and capers sauce.

Hawaii by season There are two seasons in Hawaii: the hotter, drier kau (summer), which spans from May to October; and the cooler, wetter ho‘oilo (winter), which runs from November to April.

May – October Hawaii kicks off May with Lei Day, a statewide celebration of the iconic garland made with flowers, leaves, feathers, shells or kukui nuts. All the major islands host a variety of free lei events, with the most popular annual festival taking place at Honolulu’s Kapi’olani Regional Park. Each May during the Shinnyo Lantern Floating Hawaii, the waters at Honolulu’s Ala Moana Beach Park glow with thousands of floating candle-lit lanterns, bearing prayers and affirmations to honour loved ones who have passed. June 11 is King Kamehameha Day, which commemorates the Kingdom of Hawaii’s first monarch. Foodies should time their visit with the Annual Hawaii Food & Wine Festival, which takes place on Maui and the island of Hawaii in October and in Oahu in November.

November – April JO2

JO2, Kauai

ME R R I M AN ’S

In an unassuming but elegant restaurant at a strip mall along Kuhio Highway, renowned chef Jean-Marie Josselin expertly weaves French, Japanese, and Hawaii’s multiethnic influences in his Asian-fusion menu. Kauai-grown heirloom vegetables and fresh-caught seafood are transformed into dishes like grilled octopus with mushroom risotto, bamboo-steamed snapper with soba noodles and agedashi tofu with eggplant chutney. Photo: JO2 Natural Cuisine.

Each island is divided by the drier leeward (west) side, where you’ll find a concentration of resorts and the greener windward (east) side, which tends to get more rain. Weather is localised in Hawaii, so even if it’s raining in one part of the island, you’ll likely find a sunnier spot elsewhere. Big wave season starts in November, with pro surfers flocking to Oahu’s North Shore beaches to compete in a number of surfing competitions. The north shores of Maui and Kauai also experience winter swells from November to February. From December to May, humpback whales make their way from Alaska to Hawaii to breed. The best place to see them is in Maui, especially around the Au’au Channel between Moloka’i, anwd Lanai.

K A M A H I WA K AWA’A , MANAG ER O F HAWAI I AN C U LT U R E FA I R M ON T K E A L ANI / @FAI R MO NT K EAL ANI

King David Kalãkaua put it best when he said, “Hula is the language of the heart and therefore the heartbeat of the Hawaiian people.” Without hula, we as Hawaiians have no culture. It is through hula that the stories and the history of these islands and its people are told. Without it, we as a people would be lost. Because of hula, I am not just a dancer, I am a keeper of the flame, a storyteller and a better kanaka (human being). Photo: Fairmont Kea Lani.

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I N SI D E R

Sleeping and relaxing Outrigger Reef Waikiki Beach Resort, Oahu Throughout the sleek and modern Outrigger Reef, guests will find homages to the islands’ wayfaring history – paddles and conch shells on display, a 30-foot hulled canoe in the lobby, and murals and a woven-rope sculpture by local artists. Complimentary activities range from sunrise yoga and hula to ukulele lessons and bracelet making and every night, Hawaiian musicians croon tunes at the onsite Kani Ka Pila Grille.

Ready to explore?

Stay at 1 Hanalei Bay

Explore Turtle Bay

Turtle Bay Resort, Oahu

1 Hanalei Bay, Kauai

The luxury hotel on the North Shore was a scene-stealer in the movie Forgetting Sarah Marshall, and it’s easy to see why. All 408 rooms and suites in the main building offer unobstructed views of the ocean and guests at this sprawling resort have access to five miles of coastlines with horseback riding and mountain biking trails, seven beaches and four pools.

Become one with nature at the new 1 Hanalei Bay, a wellness retreat in the North Shore of Kauai. The 252-room sanctuary focuses on tranquility of the mind and body, with wellness classes like guided hikes and sunrise meditation and thoughtful touches like inroom yoga mats and a minibar stocked with green juice and herbal tonics. The resort also has an outdoor jungle gym.

BR I A N H I R ATA / C HEF AND EDUCATO R / @NA AU HI LO

Hawaii is unique in the sense that we are very isolated geographically but have such huge diversity in our ethnic and cultural fabric. Hawaii is more than just plate lunches and the food you’ll find at a luau. For a more meaningful trip, seek out authentic foods and experiences at hole-in-the-wall restaurants, local ranches and farmers markets to get a glimpse of what Hawaii has to oﬀer.

H AWAI I

Mauna Lani Resort, Hawaii island Perched on 32 acres of lava fields, next to the rugged coastline of the Kohala Coast, Mauna Lani is a stay fit for kings. The land was once occupied by Hawaiian royalty and guests can still visit the ancient Kalahuipua’a fishponds, lava tube dwellings and petroglyphs. At Hawaii’s first Auberge Resorts Collection property, a majority of its 333 natural wood– accented rooms offer views of the ocean and guests can take a dip in one of three new pools, get a relaxing massage at the spa, or shop at a brand-new Goop store – the only one in the state.

Montage Kapalua Bay, Maui

Halekulani Hotel, Oahu

The Montage Kapalua Bay is designed to make you feel right at home with residentialstyle one- to four-bedroom accommodations equipped with a gourmet kitchen, deep soaking tubs, and separate living and dining rooms. The landscaped gardens throughout the property transport guests to an idyllic tropical paradise, where afternoons are spent soaking up the rays by the pool and sipping fruity mai tais. Evenings are reserved for romantic dinners and long walks on the beach, while the kids are busy with supervised activities curated by the Paintbox program.

Like its “House of Befitting Heaven” moniker, Halekulani is a dreamy, sun-drenched resort exuding quiet luxury in the heart of Waikiki. Continuing its legacy of Hawaiian hospitality, which spans more than a century, Halekulani delivers top-notch service in a tranquil setting. A majority of its 452 rooms and suites have balconies looking out to the Diamond Head and the Pacific Ocean, and each room comes with a deep soaking tub. Be sure to check out its heated pool, a real showpiece with a mosaic of a Cattleya orchid, pieced together with 1.2 million pieces of glass tiles.

B E ST KN OWN F OR :

Culture

Fusion food

Hawaiians are proud of their heritage and many feel that it’s their kuleana – their responsibility – to pass on that knowledge to the next generation. You can learn about many aspects of Hawaiian history and culture at the Bishop Museum, the Iolani Palace and the Polynesian Cultural Center. Many hotels work closely with cultural practitioners to offer complimentary leimaking, ukulele lessons, lauhala weaving, and hula dancing classes. And shopping centres, such as the Oahu’s Royal Hawaiian Center and Ala Moana Center, as well as Whaler’s Village and Shops at Wailea in Maui, host cultural programming throughout the week.

Hawaii is a unique melting pot with a diverse population that includes native Hawaiian, Chinese, Japanese, Filipino, Portuguese, Vietnamese, Korean, Okinawan and Samoans. In the 19th century, immigrants flocked to the islands to work in sugar and pineapple plantations. In the fields, the labourers shared food from their hometown – tofu, adobo, fried chicken, kimchi, malasadas – with each other during lunchtime. The iconic plate lunches typically include a main dish – chicken katsu, kalbi short ribs, kalua – and always two icecream scoops of rice and a scoop of mac salad. You can enjoy a sampling of all these dishes at a luau, a Hawaiian feast.

Stars and seas Hawaii’s minimal light pollution makes it a prime spot for stargazing, including at Maui’s Haleakalā National Park and Hawaii island’s Mauna Kea Observatories. Hawaii’s connection to the celestial sphere dates back to its beginnings, when the islands were first discovered and settled by Polynesians who sailed on doublehulled canoes called Wa’a from Marquesas Islands sometime between 1000 and 1200 AD. At the Four Seasons Resort Lanai, cultural advisors share their ike kupuna (ancestral knowledge) and share stories about how Indigenous Hawaiians navigated the vast ocean using the moon, planets, and stars as guides.

DREAM BY L U XU RY E S CAP E S

I N SI D E R

Out and about See an active volcano Open 24 hours daily, the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park on the island of Hawaii is home to Mauna Loa and Kīlauea, one of the most active volcanoes in the world. There’s nothing more primal than seeing red-hot lava glowing, but there’s no guarantee there will be an eruption during your visit. However, there is plenty to do at the park, including nearly a dozen walking trails and loops to see a lava tube, an inky lava field with petroglyphs, a caldera, and steam bluffs. The dark skies here are also prime for stargazing.

The rolling waves of Waikiki are perfect for beginner surfers. There are many surf shops near the beach offering lessons to first timers, and some hotels, such as the Outrigger Waikiki Beach Resort, can help arrange classes for guests. In a few short hours, you’ll learn to pop up on the board and ride the waves in the birthplace of modern surfing.

Drive the Road to Hana The 64-mile Hana Highway is one of the most scenic drives in the world, winding through more than 600 turns, crossing 59 bridges, and passing a dozen or so waterfalls. Along the way, day-trippers can picnic at a black sand beach at Wai’ānapanapa State Park (reservations required), take a selfie at the rainbow eucalyptus grove and wander through a mystical bamboo forest at the Haleakalā National Park.

T HE S URPRI S I N G T H I N G :

The Hawaiian language almost went extinct When you’re in Hawaii, you’ll be greeted with a cheery “aloha” or someone might say “mahalo” when you hold the door for them. Hawaii is one of three states in the U.S. that have a second official language, ‘Ōlelo Hawai’i. However, that wasn’t always the case. In fact, until the 1970s, the Hawaiian language was on the brink of extinction. After the Hawaiian Kingdom was overthrown in 1893, the U.S. banned public schools from teaching through the medium of Hawaiian, and kids were punished for speaking it in schools. There’s since been a revival of the language, though it is still classified as “critically endangered” by UNESCO. Today, locals

communicate primarily in English, but tourists will likely encounter some Hawaiian words during their trip. Here’s a quick primer on some frequently used terms: Aloha is a common greeting, which can either mean hello or goodbye. Mahalo translates to “thank you,” while keiki refers to “child” or “offspring.” When asking for directions, someone might point you to the makai-side (oceanside) or mauka-side (towards the mountain). If a local says there’s ono food, you’re guaranteed a good meal. And when you see the word kama‘aina, it usually refers to Hawaii residents.

IMAGES: MNSTUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM, BYAKKAYA VIA GETTY IMAGES, OKIMO VIA GETTY IMAGES, JUPITERIMAGES VIA GETTY IMAGES, XIAOYUE GUO VIA GETTY IMAGES.

Learn to surf

H AWAI I

Zipline through a nature reserve Soar across the majestic Ka’a’awa Valley, a sacred area that once served as the residence of kings. Now part of Kualoa Ranch, a 4,000-acre ranch and private reserve, the valley was prominently featured in movies like Jurassic Park, Lost and Godzilla. The Jurassic Valley Zipline Tour includes seven tandem stations, a suspension bridge, and three short nature trails. The ranch also offers UTV Raptor Tours, e-bike tours, horseback riding and a Hollywood movie sites tour.

FA MILY AF FAI R:

Hawaii with kids For Hawaii locals, ohana – or family – is everything, and there’s a shared commitment to nurturing children and teaching them the importance of ‘āina, the land and the sea that feed us. Children can learn about native plants and birds along nature trails at national and state parks, including the Haleakalā National Park in Maui, the Hawaii Volcanoes National Park on Hawaii island, the Waimea Canyon State Park in Kauai, and Diamond Head State Monument in Oahu. The waters surrounding Hawaii brim with marine creatures, ranging from humpback whales and spinner dolphins to sea turtles and colourful tropical fishes. Sign up for a snorkel excursion or a whale-watching tour, or wade through the shallow tidepools to spot crabs and sea urchins. Throughout the islands, there are child-friendly beaches, protected by reef or seawalls, including the popular Kūhiō Beach in Waikiki. Parks and beaches are typically packed with families having picnics, so for your next

outing, be sure to bring a cooler of chilled POG (passion, orange, guava) juice, fresh fruit from the farmers markets, poke bowls, or plate lunches of fried chicken and macaroni salad. Cool off after a hot day with a frosty shaved ice, with rainbow-hued syrup. Cultural festivals abound year-round, and include kid-friendly activities, like lei-making, ukulele lessons, weaving, arts and crafts, storytelling, and hula dancing. The Ko Olina Children’s Festival is a fun-filled event in May with live music, Disney characters, games, and face painting held at the Kohola Lagoon beach in front of Aulani, A Disney Resort & Spa. And the Hula O Nā Keiki is a children’s hula competition held each year in November at the Kā’anapali Beach Hotel in Maui. Other family-friendly attractions in Oahu include the Honolulu Zoo; the Waikiki Aquarium, where you can see the rare Hawaiian monk seal; and the Dole Plantation, where kids can navigate their way out of a giant Pineapple Garden Maze.

Swim with manta rays

Tour the Nãpali Coast

When the sun dips into the horizon, guests swim out to the ocean holding on to surfboards lined with LED lights. The illuminated dark waters attract planktonic organisms, which draw giant manta rays to the light source. For about an hour, you can witness these gentle seven-metre-wide creatures up close as they twirl around the ocean like a choreographed ballet. Manta ray viewing sites are typically around the Kohala Coast, Keauhou, and Ellison Onizuka Kona International Airport on the island of Hawaii.

The rugged Nāpali Coast is perhaps one of the most recognisable coastlines in the world. Waterfalls cascade dramatically out of jagged emerald cliffs, while turquoise waves crash against caves and spills toward tucked-away coves. Experienced hikers can embark on the 17.5-kilometre Kalalau Trail along the coast, but for most visitors, the best way to take in the grandeur of the Nāpali Coast is on a helicopter or boat tour.

DREAM BY L U XU RY E S CAP E S

A place where time stands still. Seated on a lush reserve within the ancestral lands of the Marapu people on Sumba island The Sanubari offers unique experiences like swimming with horses in crystal blue waters or simply finding inner serenity through connecting with this largely unexplored area of East Indonesia. Ancient and mystical, the 100 hectare reserve is a sanctuary for the explorer, the nature lover and anyone seeking a unique experience in one of the world’s last ancient megalithic cultures.

Book your stay at The Sanubari

HERE & FAR

The wild beauty of Sumba, Bali’s island neighbour where you can escape the crowds

66 / Why Sumba is the new hotspot for Bali lovers

72 / Island hopping in Malta, the EU’s little wonder

80 / The regional Queensland restaurant revolution

88 / The Luxury Escapes TV team on the high seas

IMAGE: PEERAWAT – STOCK.ADOBE.COM.

H E R E A N D FA R

Wild at heart

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Sumba, Bali’s up-and-coming sibling, is an island where you can ride horses on the beach, surf uncrowded breaks or experience traditional village life. Claire Turrell explores this island that time forgot and its resorts to discover an Indonesian island experience like no other.

The Portuguese may have visited, the Dutch, too, but this island in the Indian Ocean remains raw, wild and mysterious. It’s just a 90-minute flight from Bali, yet not many tourists have made the trip. But once you climb down the steps of the propeller plane onto the tarmac and see the backdrop of mountains, you’ll wonder why you didn’t come earlier. Its beaches are endless, its culture is rich, and yet the island of the Marapu people remains relatively undiscovered. The drive to your hotel in Bali may take you past third-wave coffee shops and interior stores laden with artisan buys, while in Sumba you will be greeted with rolling hillsides, clusters of small villages and a buffalo or two lazily chewing grass on the roadside. Life is unhurried, time is merely a suggestion. It’s the perfect antidote to our fast-paced way of life. Now you have another reason to go. Two new boutique hotels who want to help you leave the rest of the world behind and explore Sumba are Cap Karoso and The Sanubari. Thoughtful and discreet, these getaways are designed not to disrupt, but blend into this slower way of life. The Sanubari (meaning “soul”) is found within a 100-acre swathe of land that begins at the top of a rice-paddy-filled hillside and rolls down to the Indian Ocean. You can see the high-pitched peaks of the Sumbanese homes dotted along the edge of its grounds. Although you may need to drive closer to see the hotel’s low-rise buildings – they have been designed to almost disappear into the landscape. Though when you do stumble across them along the foliage-lined pathways, you’ll find spacious villas with white walls and blonde wood that look out over the ocean or the rice paddy fields. OPPOSITE: The high-pitched peaks of traditional Sumbanese houses are dotted around the island that has rolling hillsides and untouched beaches. TOP: The Sanubari is set on 100 acres of land that begins above rice paddies. ABOVE: The resort has spacious villas overlooking the ocean off Sumba. DREAM BY L U XU RY E S CAP E S

H E R E A N D FA R

The Sanubari is an ode to Sumba. From the shaggy grass roofs of the spacious villas to the ikat-inspired prints and woven puraka rice baskets in the suites. British-Australian couple Rowan and Micha Burn joined with Bali-based hoteliers Allan and Roger Thomas to turn this corner of Sumba into a sustainable getaway.

NEW TV SEASON

Luxury Escapes TV is back on Australian screens this year. Season 6 features bucket-list destinations including Santorini, Tuscany and the Maldives. The brand-new season of Luxury Escapes is screening on Foxtel now and is also streaming on BINGE with encore screening on Network Ten.

Watch on

The Sanubari has a Silicon Valley surf vibe. It wants its beach-dress-wearing, board-shortsporting guests to feel right at home. Rowan and Micha can be found each morning walking barefoot along the sand, and chatting to guests as they relax on deep sofas in the restaurant or sip hibiscus cocktails through papaya straws at the beach bar. When Rowan first arrived in Sumba seven-and-a-half years ago he immediately felt he belonged. “I felt a really strong sense of feeling right at home,” he says. And he’s not the only one. A family from Peru, who can be found playing cards around the large dining table are on their second visit, using The Sanubari as the location for their annual bonding trip. It’s no surprise that they want to create a community feel, as they are constantly surrounded by one. The duo built a school on

the grounds, which their son attends, along with 14 Sumbanese children. Their parents may be working at the hotel, tending their rice paddy fields in the grounds or catching fish in seagrass baskets that are found in the ponds. They may also be seen walking their horses across the sand or stopping to buy half a dozen red snapper from the fishing boats that have just come ashore that morning. Horses are a large part of Sumbanese culture. Warriors are crowned on the back of them, and dowries are still paid with them. At the nearby festival ground, Sumbanese people busy themselves constructing market stalls made from bamboo, from which they will sell their wares to racegoers the following weekend. Sumba is also the home of the pasola, where warriors riding horseback once threw spears at each other. They now throw

wooden sticks, but the megalithic tombs that sit high on the hillside are a reminder of the more unforgiving version. Sumba’s horses are called Sandalwood horses. Their presence on the island dates from the 8th century when Chinese traders would swap their Mongolian-Arabian ponies for Sumba’s aromatic sandalwood. This sturdy and energetic breed can be found in The Sanubari’s thatched stables. Guests can join the stable manager Carlos and his team for a ride along the trails, along the ocean front, or across the powder white beach to a private island where you can swim with the horses in the sea. Even if you’re a beginner, Carlos will have you riding from the stables to the beach, and then after he removes the leather saddles, you’ll be riding bareback on your horse in the ocean.

SU M BA

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Carlos grew up riding bareback on the neighbouring island of Flores. After working at the nearby resort NIHI Sumba with Australian horse whisperer Carol Sharpe, he now oversees the stables at The Sanubari. Carlos, who is as serious about his horses as his love of Bob Marley, said he wouldn’t want to work anywhere else. “I love coming to The Sanubari to work each day,” he said. “Sumba is like Bali as it was 50 years ago,” he said. “I hope that in the future Sumba always stays like this.” Carlos explains that Sandalwood horses swap hands for millions of rupiah. “For a dowry, the cheapest horses can cost from seven million rupiah each, but if it’s taken part in races or been a champion, it’s really expensive,” says Carlos. Carlos has four horses in the stable. Two Sumbanese ponies that are calm in nature, which he uses with beginners, and two more horses who are at home on the racetrack. Though all understand that it’s the diminutive trainer that’s in charge. The Sanubari’s stables are just a short ride or drive from the restaurant. The rack of surfboards by the restaurant leaves you in no doubt about how Sanubari’s guests spend the rest of the time. The rolling waves can challenge everyone from a beginner to a guest who arrives with their own board. Whether it’s horse riding or surfing, Sumba seems to follow Nike’s slogan “Just Do It”. Want to learn how to ride a horse? Climb on. Want to learn how to surf? Practise the surfing stance a couple of times on the beach, then take your board out onto the water and ride the first wave back to shore. Before you know it, you’ll be rising off up off your board and looking at the sky rather than the surf. Energy can be spent as the restaurant’s servings are plentiful. For instance, you won’t receive a few paltry slices of banana on your oatmeal in the morning. Instead, you’ll find one-and-a-half caramelised bananas and lashings of honey. While days at The Sanubari are active, evenings involve lounging by the fire pits, card games, or relaxing with a Bintang in the restaurant followed by a walk back to your villa under a blanket of stars.

OPPOSITE: The Sanubari resort has a community vibe, due in part to the fact that the owners have set up a school nearby for their kids to attend. TOP: The Sanubari beach area. ABOVE: So-called Sandalwood horses are a huge part of Sumbanese culture and their arrival dates back to the 8th century. DREAM BY L U XU RY E S CAP E S

H E R E A N D FA R

Passion project Further up the coast you’ll find Cap Karoso, which is another hideaway that wants to introduce the rest of the world to Sumba. Owners Evguenia (Eve) and Fabrice Ivara, stumbled across it when on vacation in Bali. When at dinner with friends they made in Bali people would speak of Sumba in almost mythical tones. “The way that they spoke of it, it was something like The Beach, the movie,” said Eve. The couple were intrigued. Then Fabrice saw properties in Sumba for sale in a real estate agent window in Bali and the rest is history. The couple took their first flight to Sumba in 2016 and fell in love with the island. They were shown a plot of land just an hour’s drive from the airport and by February 2017 they owned it. The initial concept was to build a three-star hotel or a farm, however the need to create a profit forced them to think bigger. So, in its place they created a retreat that showcased gourmet food and design and celebrated the wilderness.

As one of France’s first food bloggers, it’s no surprise that Fabrice wanted to deliver when it came to food. Dine on Asian and Mediterranean-style dishes in the Beach Club or Apicine restaurant, or join what feels like a private dinner party in the singletable Julang restaurant. Pizzas are made in a traditional Acunto oven shipped from Italy, and there are also plans to open another restaurant within their organic farm. While there may be European elements throughout the resort, it’s not hard to find the nods to the Sumbanese culture, from the skeins of dyed cotton that have been turned into wall art in the lobby to the spa designed in the style of local Sumbanese houses. Guests will be able to find more bespoke pieces created by artisans in the Garden Suites that lie on leafy avenues, which cascade down the hillside. Cap Karoso’s Sumbanese staff are happy to tell you the history of their homeland under the shade of the Indian almond trees on the beach, but they encourage you to join them on a short drive to one of the nearby ancient villages to really understand the culture. Buku Bani is an ancient village that was here long before the Portuguese or Dutch colonists. Photographs taken of the grass-roofed buildings show that little has changed over the decades. When it’s time to build a new spiritual house or home, you’ll find the men sat hunched over four large tree trunks busy engraving circular symbols into the newly debarked wood and the women gathered around an outdoor kitchen, where they occasionally stir a pot that’s bubbling on the top of a log fire. Other women may be heard working on their ikat weaving, by the clattering sound of the wooden beater that they use to push the cotton threads into place on their homemade wooden looms. Nearby Buku Bani village is run by a rato, a headman who oversees this original root village and the neighbouring branch villages. He may be seen in a headdress, or on more casual days in a hinggu kombu (ikat hip cloth) and a khaki safari shirt. The rato may welcome you to the village with a dish of betel nuts. Whether you’re partial or not to the seeds from a palm tree that can dye your lips red, you should be aware that it’s an offense not to accept them. While the goats grazing under a tree and the chickens scratching the earth look like any other village scene, there is one sight that stands out. A single stone hut sits at the side of the village and is surrounded by a ring of volcanic rock. It’s here where the rato will go to meditate if someone has committed a crime. The village elder will conjure up lightning to strike that person down. No one knows when it will happen. It’s for the rato to know and the law breaker to find out. Enough to keep any errant villager in line.

ABOVE: Cap Karoso aims to introduce visitors to Sumba’s natural beauty. OPPOSITE: The resort has European elements throughout with nods to Sumbanese culture.

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Under-the-radar Bali and beyond These resorts on the main island and Lombok, give you more reasons to venture further. Qunci Villas, Lombok

While Sumba is one of Indonesia’s largest islands, surrounded with a huge coastline, the Sumbanese see themselves not as fishermen, but farmers. They tend to build their homes high on the mountainside where they tend crops of rice and corn. Cap Karoso has its own organic farm, where its local members of staff are just as adept at telling you about the cooking techniques for each ingredient as they are for sharing its medicinal properties. Elvis, who was a boat driver on Bali and now drives Cap Karoso’s guests around on dry land, shared that the Sumbanese will not only add fried papaya blossom to liven up their dishes, but will also boil it to help get rid of a fever. Meanwhile hotel guide Frankie, whose family live locally, will happily pluck a candlenut and peel it to show you the white waxy seed the Marapu people burn to create light. Guests are encouraged to climb aboard one of the hotel’s e-bikes and visit the 7.4-acre farm. One person who would cycle to the farm daily was visiting Michelin-star Portuguese chef Gil Nogueira. Gil, who ran his own sustainable restaurant and farm in the Champagne region of France, would be able to find most ingredients at his fingertips, but he says that the trip to Sumba was more than worth the journey. He enjoyed picking ginger, green papaya, aubergines, and Szechuan peppers fresh from the farm. “The same ingredients might grow in Europe, but they taste different here because of the soil. The weather creates a different taste,” said the chef. With its quiet surprises of luxury resorts, the cenote-style Weekuri Lagoon and small villages brimming with history and culture, Sumba rewards the traveller who is keen to look beyond Bali.

A mountain backdrop and a curving stretch of soft sand wrap around Qunci Villas. This is a place that likes to aim high. Within the cluster of ochre-coloured buildings you’ll find a kaleidoscopic array of places where you can rest your head, from a twostorey villa that’s like a home-awayfrom-home to a two-bedroom suite with a pool that stretches the length of your terrace. Dining is also a treat with three restaurants and a rotation of visiting chefs such as Dave Pynt from Singapore’s Burnt Ends.

Somewhere Lombok, Lombok For a designer spin on island living, check out Somewhere Lombok. The 20 villas seem to cascade down the hillside, offering uninterrupted views as well as private plunge pools. Practise yoga on the lawn or collect your board from the surf rack and explore the ocean below. Wind down the day by asking the bartender to create a lemongrass mojito for you.

Soori Bali, Bali Follow winding roads through Balinese villages to reach the hideaway that is Soori Bali. Owned and designed by an architect, the bespoke villas that overlook the ocean or verdant paddy fields are designed to standalone or interconnect, depending on whether you’re travelling as a couple, family or with friends. Spend the day in the stateof-the art spa or practising your shots on the clifftop driving range. Nothing is too much trouble for the team: kids are welcomed with scooters to ride around

the resort and floaties for the pool, while adults can be tempted with a waterfall dining experience or a spiritual blessing, both specially organised.

Elevate Bali by Hanging Gardens, Bali Travel to the highlands of Bali to find this mountain retreat. Choose one of the duplex villas where you can climb the stairs to your bedroom for a bird’s eye view of the landscape. Dining is anything but ordinary – opt for a lakeside picnic, feast around the firepit, or journey aboard a six-person canoe for a gourmet lunch on the water.

Buahan, Banyan Tree Resort, Bali If you want to immerse yourself in nature, look no further than Buahan, Banyan Tree Resort. This no-walls, no-doors hideaway sits high in the forest of Ubud. A stay at Buahan comes with many surprises. You can go for a drive in a vintage VW, join a mountain bike ride where you collect treats enroute for a picnic, or visit the resort’s own firefly reserve.

Batu Karang Lembongan Resort, Nusa Lembongan Catch a fast boat from Bali to the isle of Nusa Lembongan. Here you’ll find the family-run Batu Karang Lembongan Resort. Set on the clifftop, you can kick start your day with a coffee on the terrace and take in the view, then descend the steps to the ocean where you can while away the hours snorkelling or diving with manta rays.

DREAM BY L U XU RY E S CAP E S

IMAGE: IEVGEN SKRYPKO – STOCK.ADOBE.COM.

H E R E A N D FA R

Little wonder

M ALTA

The smallest member of the European Union, Malta is currently having a moment with savvy travellers as they discover its secret grottoes, ancient ruins and genuine hospitality.

Robert La Bua finds an overlooked island getaway that perfectly balances a history stretching back millennia with a very exciting future.

DREAM BY L U X U RY E S CAP E S

H E R E A N D FA R

IMAGES, LEFT TO RIGHT: PARILOV – STOCK.ADOBE.COM, MALTA TOURISM.

Next time you are in Europe, leave Sicily to The White Lotus crowd because Malta is the new rising star. The European Union’s smallest member is a melting pot of Arabs, Italians, Normans, Aragonese and Britons who arrived on this island on ancient sailing ships.

And it is this cumulative amalgam of diverse cultures that has now formed one of Europe’s most progressive societies. Malta recently hosted the LGBTQI+ EuroPride festival, it has become a haven for digital nomads with an early embrace of flexible working visas and is home to a new influx of artists and hoteliers. But Malta has managed all this modernisation while still respecting its rich past. Malta finally achieved independence for the first time in 1964 when the British packed up and left after 150 years of rule and the island is also scattered with temples that predate the Great Pyramids of Egypt. These sites are easily accessible and far more intimate than Europe’s other well-trodden archaeological sites, allowing visitors to be enveloped by the history and mystery at ancient sites such as Hagar Qim and Ggantija, a temple complex more than 5000 years old. Malta’s capital of Valletta consists of honey-coloured buildings that remain in pristine condition thanks to the city’s designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Some of the ornately detailed buildings feature the unique gallariji, closed, ornate wooden balconies that are hallmarks of Maltese architecture. These protected spaces allow people on the inside to observe people on the street through spyholes in the walls and floors without themselves being seen, a feature of a city that has a long history of being under siege.

ABOVE: For the ultimate tour of Malta charter a private yacht for the day and explore the coast of Comino, Malta’s third-largest island. OPPOSITE: Malta’s capital of Valletta may be petite but it is packed with history, fascinating architecture and food experiences.

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Visitors now come not to conquer but to indulge in the island’s isolation, its culture and in authentic Maltese cuisine at traditional hotspots like Rubino, a modestly appointed restaurant in Old Bakery Street in Valletta that has been in operation for more than 100 years. Rubino caters to clientele favouring the freshest local fare prepared to exacting standards and served in an unpretentious dining room. Malta produces some excellent wine but exports hardly any of it; in addition to grapes typically used in wine production elsewhere in the world, the local gellewza and girgentina varietals native to the islands remain the country’s oenological secret shared only with visitors in the know. For a more rustic meal, grab a quick lunch at the fishing harbour of Marsaxlokk, where colourful luzzu, boats famed for the eyes painted at the bow, bring the day’s catch right to the waterside restaurants. These nautical peepers represent the Eye of Horus, a symbol of protection that goes back even beyond the ancient Egyptians to the seafaring Phoenicians who once occupied much of the Mediterranean region. To appreciate Valletta to the fullest, a guided walking tour is highly recommended. For example, although the Grand Master’s Palace is currently undergoing restoration, a good guide can sneak you in for a peek. Denis Maslennikov is one of Malta’s best guides. In additional to his encyclopaedic knowledge of the city, his work at Heritage Malta allows him the occasional special privilege. Also a talented photographer, Denis explains that he likes to help visitors “uncover the hidden gems and secrets of Valletta that are nearly impossible to stumble upon” on one’s own. In a city with as rich a history as Valletta, many of those gems and secrets are easily overlooked without an insider’s knowledge. Denis’s guide services can be arranged through Malta Tourism Authority. The main city sights are all within easy walking distance, so compact is the smallest of EU capitals. Most visitors first head to St John’s Co-Cathedral, so named because a cathedral already existed in the archdiocese in Mdina before St John’s was built. An enormous edifice, the co-cathedral houses an astonishing interior where every

surface is a work of art. Tombs with colourful stone inlays on the floor grab as much attention as the intricately decorated walls and ceiling. In the oratory are two paintings by Caravaggio, the gifted Italian scoundrel who sought refuge in Malta after committing multiple crimes in Rome. Ever the tumultuous soul, Caravaggio was eventually expelled from Malta but not before creating the two masterpieces on display here. The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist (1608) is his largest work and the only one to bear his signature, which in dramatic fashion is seen in the blood streaming from Saint John’s wounded neck. The expressive Saint Jerome Writing (1607) was stolen from the co-cathedral in 1984 but was recovered two years later. It now sits to the front of the oratory’s altar. Less confronting works of art are found in the Casa Rocca Piccola, a museum of upper-class life in a more genteel era. Casa Rocca Piccola is not a relic of the past, however; the palace is still home to the noble de Piro family. Why not have a private tour of the house with the owners themselves? The ninth Marquis and Marchioness de Piro are happy to spend time with visitors and show them around. The house’s lovely courtyard is a nod to the exclusivity of private outdoor space accorded only to the wealthy in the time of the Knights Hospitaller when noble families alone were granted permission for private gardens. One of the major sights on Malta beyond Valletta is the Hal Saflieni Hypogeum, an underground necropolis revealed by accident in 1902 when renovations were being done on a home above it. In the town of Paola, the Hypogeum strictly limits the number of visitors to a maximum of 10. Be aware that tickets sell out weeks in advance. Other ancient sites around the island worthy of a visit include the megalithic temples in Tarxien, Mnajdra, and the aforementioned Hagar Qim. Past Mdina on Malta’s southern coast is the Blue Grotto, where boat rides take visitors into the rock hollows at the base of the cliffs to appreciate the extraordinary blues of the sea and play of shadows and sunlight on the water. For the ultimate waterborne experience, a private yacht charter for a day in the Blue Lagoon off the coast of tiny Comino, the third of Malta’s islands, makes an unforgettable memory.

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If you are keen to turn up the glamour, head to the perfect base for exploration. The legendary hotel The Phoenicia Malta embraces the Maltese reverence for the past with an understanding of the needs of present-day travellers. Bright rooms and suites emulate the public spaces where stylish comfort and service are the bywords. The hotel’s large garden is an admirable assembly of exotic plants and trees; at its end is a bastion terrace where a swimming pool and bar area have splendid views of the Valletta cityscape. Under the estimable leadership of Australian general manager Robyn Pratt, the hotel sits just outside Valletta’s City Gate, a masterwork of architect Renzo Piano unveiled in 2014. The Phoenicia Malta’s location facing the lovely Triton Fountain is perfect for enjoying the city’s beehive of activity before withdrawing from it come cocktail time, afternoon tea in the lovely Palm Court Lounge, or dinner in The Phoenix restaurant, perhaps followed by a performance at Teatru Manoel. One of the oldest theatres in Europe, Teatru Manoel is an apt representative of Malta as a whole; a plain exterior on a narrow side street belies the opulence of the oval theatre’s elaborate interior and only those who actually enter can appreciate its grandeur to the fullest. Leave it to the helpful concierges at The Phoenicia Malta to arrange tickets or any other special requests. “When I say we have a great team, it is really more like we are a family and together we are working towards achieving the owner’s goal to be recognised as the best urban luxury hotel in the Mediterranean,” says Robyn. “The team spirit is fantastic and this inspires me to do my best as so many people are working hard to do their best for the guest every day.”

IMAGES, LEFT TO RIGHT: THE PHOENICIA MALTA, MALTA TOURISM.

Old world hospitality

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North star

Malta’s northern city of Mdina is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the fortified town served as the island’s capital in medieval times. Entrance into Mdina is through the monumental bridge of Mdina Gate and it feels like a passage from the present into the past. Thanks to a laudable restriction on motorised vehicles, ethereal Mdina is known as the Silent City and is indeed totally quiet after the daytrippers have left. Numerous palazzos constructed in grand style complement the Baroque splendour of St Paul’s Cathedral. Mdina was once the capital of Maltese territory until surrendering control to the Order of Saint John, better known as the Knights Hospitaller, who instead chose to rule from Birgu across the harbour from Valletta. One place that still rules in Mdina is the Michelin-starred restaurant de Mondion. Located in a former palace, this is Malta’s most exclusive restaurant. Exceptional dishes accompanied by the finest Maltese and international wines are served indoors and, in nice weather, outdoors on a terrace with literally stellar views of the night sky and Valletta in the distance. This panorama encompasses much of the island of Malta. Contrasting with the elegance of de Mondion is the very simple Crystal Palace, an award-winning bakery where

Malta’s famous pastizzi are prepared a short stroll from Mdina Gate. A choice of fillings is enveloped by layers of filo, pastizzi are well known outside the country thanks to the Maltese diaspora that has taken them across the world; less familiar is the delectable qassatat, a cheese-filled ball of deliciousness. Eager foodies have to make the boat trip across to Gozo, Malta’s second-largest island that has a culinary style all of its own. The best place to enjoy it is Ic-Cima, a popular establishment with stupendous sea views in the town of Xlendi, one of Malta’s most picturesque locations. Ic-Cima makes the perfect lunch stop on a Gozo tour; it is conveniently located about halfway through a day’s visit of the sights on this island that has long attracted painters, musicians and other creatives. Easily reached by public ferry or private charter, Gozo maintains a strong spirit of independence that seems to imbue the visitor with a similar sense of empowerment, especially for Australians who will notice the many houses named for locations Down Under thanks to family ties to the homeland. The welcomes on Gozo are especially amiable; maybe it is the similarity between the easy-going Australian lifestyle and that of the Gozitans, who take Malta’s live and let live attitude to another level, that strengthens the

bond between the two countries. Travelling through Goza I felt a tinge of pride that there is such vigorous camaraderie between Malta and Australia. That sentiment is even stronger for Australians of Maltese descent such as singer and Australian Idol 2007 winner Natalie Gauci. When asked about her cultural background as a Maltese-Australian, she replied: “My Maltese heritage is very important to me. My dad was born there, and even though I was born and raised in Australia, my Maltese roots are extremely strong. When I landed in Malta for the first time, it felt like home.” Whether seen from above on land or from below on the water, the stunning cliffs at Sanap, Ta’ Cenc, and Dwejra Bay along Gozo’s southern and western coastlines are, like those seen in Xlendi, among the most dramatic in the country. The north side of the island is less rugged and the wide swathe of sand on popular Ramla Beach is the same honey colour as Valletta’s historical buildings. Viewpoints above Ramla Bay include Calypso’s Cave, which, legend has it, was the inspiration for Homer’s tale in The Odyssey of Calypso and her imprisoned lover, Odysseus. Whether or not that tall tale is true, one thing is for certain, island hopping in Malta is bound to captivate travellers who are yearning to explore further on a European jaunt.

OPPOSITE: The Phoenicia Malta combines Maltese history with modern facilities like Infinity pool with views over Valletta’s town centre and harbour. ABOVE LEFT: Exploring the walled city of Mdina is a highlight. ABOVE RIGHT: Visitors to the Blue Grotto are struck by the plays of shadow on the ocean. DREAM BY L U X U RY E S CAP E S

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Filled to the (b)rim

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For decades one of Australia’s most important food bowls, the Scenic Rim region of Southeast Queensland is also ( finally) turning into a regional dining destination. Matt Shea goes in search of some of its very best restaurants.

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Where are we, again? We close and open our eyes. It’s a hedge-lined byway on a broad plateau, driving past rolling farmland parcelled off by enormous windbreaks. The road reaches a narrow ridge and then snakes through a canopy of trees. It could be the Dales of England, or perhaps the Hügelland in Germany – except the Pacific Ocean is barely 30 kilometres away, as the crow flies. An hour earlier we were sipping coffee in the shadow of a Gold Coast skyscraper. This is Beechmont, on the edge of Queensland’s Scenic Rim region. For keen hikers, it’s a gateway to Lamington National Park and miles upon miles of bush walks through the Gondwana rainforest. For the rest of us, it might as well be a lost world. We’re so taken by the stunning scenery, we initially miss the entrance to Beechmont Estate, and have to turn back to find its imposing white gates.

This five-star retreat sits on 30 perfectly manicured hectares of former Wagyu farmland. A winding driveway dips down across a creek and up to a handsome modern lodge built in white timber and stone. Out the back of the property, there are horse stables and a polo field, and on a northern-facing slope, our accommodation – an immaculate little cabin with modern timber features, a fireplace and a spacious deck within mooing distance of some neighbouring cows. But it’s the retreat’s restaurant we’re really here for. The Paddock is a beautiful 40-person dining room – all polished concrete-aggregate floors, vintage leather furniture and pendant lights. A vaulted ceiling and enormous western-facing windows bring the views outside into the room, the sun setting through the trees on a distant ridge line.

On a property like Beechmont, it would be easy to phone in the food. But The Paddock is part of a new generation of restaurants redefining regional dining in Southeast Queensland, and has become a prized lunch location for day-trippers from Brisbane and the Gold Coast. We find executive chef Simon Furley foraging in the garden, collecting olive leaves for that night’s service. Most of the planter beds are asleep right now, he explains, but by the spring – in just a few short weeks – they’ll bloom with warrigal greens, salt bush, finger lime, karkalla, ginger and lemon myrtle. “The regional dining scene has definitely come along in recent years,” Simon says. “People are more willing to travel inland from Brisbane and the Gold Coast, for starters. The Scenic Rim was a place to go for hikes and walks. People didn’t think there was much here in terms of food.”

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ALL PHOTOGRAPHY (EXCEPT FOR OPENING SPREAD) MORGAN ROBERTS.

THIS PAGE, FROM TOP: Beechmont Estate is set on 30 hectares of former Wagyu farmland; executive chef Simon Furley would never go back to cooking in the city. OPPOSITE FROM LEFT: the dining room; dishes include foraged garden produce.

There have always been good places to eat in the valleys, ranges and villages beyond Brisbane, the Gold Coast and the Sunshine Coast – Spirit House in Yandina, The Long Apron in Montville or Homage in Grandchester. But the pandemic highlighted the ties that bind restaurants everywhere to the farmers who supply them, and in turn shone a spotlight on the wider region’s role as a food bowl. Chefs such as Simon are capitalising on that awareness. The menu at The Paddock is supplied by a hit parade of local producers – Towri Sheep Cheeses, Tommerup’s Dairy Farm and Rocky Point Aquaculture. The furthest Simon travels for produce is to Miami Fish Market, one hour away. “I’d never go back to cooking in the city, no way,” Simon says. “It’s just not the same. I go to the garden and pick some stuff, or my farmer texts me in the morning and he’s dropped some melons off at a clothes shop down the road – they’re in her fridge. It’s just four melons, but they’re the best melons you’ll ever taste. Cooking here just has a real sense of place. “A lot of farmers will now ask, ‘What can we grow for you?’ or, ‘I’m thinking about doing this. What do you think?’ It’s really cool.” Of course, all that brilliant produce is nothing without a chef like Simon to make the most of it. And a meal at The Paddock is a revelation. There’s shaved pumpkin served with smoked skin syrup and overnight seeds; lime-cured cobia with mullet roe dressing, apple and crackling; Rocky Point Queensland grouper with crumbed macadamia and green garden chilli; and a Gondwana trifle for dessert that’s given a lovely peppery bite with a sprinkle of freeze-dried green ants. We sit next to the fire on the balcony after the dinner, cradling our wine, very content. DREAM BY L U X U RY E S CAP E S

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The reluctant local hero

Eighty kilometres away, in Boonah, it wasn’t chef Jack Stuart’s plan to hero local produce when he opened his restaurant, Blume, in late 2021. But, he says, what he found in the region was so good, he’s more or less doing it anyway. Blume is an easy 90-minute drive from Beechmont Estate, deeper into the Scenic Rim. The road winds down through thick rainforest and eucalypt woodland to picturesque Canungra at the base of the range. You then head north past horse studs and equestrian facilities, the enormous wooded rump of Mount Tamborine on your right, before swinging west for Beaudesert, Wyaralong and finally Boonah. Boonah is a small town undergoing an enormous change. Arranged around a lovely shady high street, it features those typical markers of Australian country life: there’s a butcher, a trophy shop, an art gallery and a twostorey timber pub that’s more fetching than most. Once a relatively sleepy centre for the Fassifern Valley farming community, Boonah’s now a prime target for city slickers looking for a tree change. Blume hides in plain sight in a quaint weatherboard shopfront at the southern end of town. Chef Jack’s a veteran of top eateries such as Congress Wine in Melbourne and Gauge in Brisbane, and had been looking at opening a restaurant in the city when, while visiting his aunt and uncle, he came across a “For Lease” sign, and was charmed by “this beautiful timber room with pressed metal walls”. “Rent is 10 times cheaper down this way,” he says. “Secondly, there are a lot of well-heeled people out here and a lot of interest in dining in the area. A lot of people have moved out here from Brisbane, or have weekenders.” Jack uses dairy from Tommerup’s Dairy Farm, cheese from Towri Sheep Cheeses, finger limes from The Lime Caviar Company in Rathdowney, and target beetroots

from Valley Pride Produce in Charlwood. Many of his herbs and flowers – fresh nasturtiums, elderflower, marjoram, bay leaves, lemon verbena and more – are grown next door in his aunt’s garden. “At the moment we cook those beets in clay and serve them with cultured Jersey cream and fennel pollen,” Jack says. “Our corn, as well, we get straight from the field. Corn, every day after it’s picked, more of the sugars convert into starch, meaning it loses its sweetness. So, the corn you get at the supermarket is nothing like the corn you get out here.” Jack’s menu, understandably, is seasonal, but you might eat dishes such as buffalo ricotta cavatelli with truffle butter and shiitake mushrooms, or a slowbraised Cape Grim short rib finished over coals and served with sugarloaf cabbage and a seaweed mustard. Organised as a multi-course set menu, Jack’s food is restrained yet full of surprises. When matched to a tight, well-rounded drinks list and presented in such an beguiling setting, you start to understand why diners mosey down the Cunningham Highway every weekend to book out the place.

FROM TOP: Many ingredients at Blume come from chef Jack Stuart’s aunt’s garden; Jack hard at work in the kitchen. RIGHT: Mapleton Public House serves elevated pub food; Jessica Huddart owns the place with husband Ben Johnson.

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The farmers and the chef Still, Southeast Queensland’s regional dining boom extends beyond the Scenic Rim. Drive north of Brisbane onto Steve Irwin Way, wend your way through the state forests and head left at Landsborough, and you’ll start climbing towards the Blackall Range. Drive the Maleny-Montville Road and then Flaxton Drive toward the tiny hilltop town of Mapleton and you’ll have rolling green pastures and reservoirs on your left, and sweeping views out towards the Sunshine Coast on your right. This range road ends at our final destination: Mapleton Public House. Cameron Matthews is by now something of a godfather of regional Queensland cooking. Originally from Bright in Victoria, he spent his formative years in the kitchen at Simone’s of Bright, one of that state’s most iconic country restaurants, before establishing his reputation with The Long Apron at Spicers Clovelly Estate in Montville, just down the road from Mapleton. He even did a bit of time at The Paddock, opening the restaurant in 2021 before Furley took the reins. From the outside, Mapleton Public House looks like the same 114-year-old pub that’s become so familiar to locals and

day trippers. A beautiful old Queenslanderstyle timber edifice with enormous wraparound verandahs, it sits high on a four-way intersection, with jaw-dropping views out towards the coast. But under the new ownership of husband-and-wife team Ben Johnson and Jessica Huddart, Cameron has been given licence to follow farm-to-table cooking to its natural conclusion. Ben and Jessica’s background is in design (their Brisbane and Los Angeles-based company Josephmark has produced work for clients such as AMC, Google, Clipchamp and Myspace) but more recently they’ve become known for The Falls Farm, an award-winning farm three kilometres down the road that supplies superstar Brisbane restaurants such as Agnes, Essa and Gerard’s Bistro. Their aim with Mapleton Public House? To cook what’s come out of the ground at the farm that day. “I’d say between 90 and 95 per cent of our fresh produce – our fruit and vegetables – is from the farm,” Cameron says. “And there’s hardly any waste. Everything we don’t use gets turned into a miso or a shoyu or something of that sort. And if there’s anything left it goes back to get composted at the farm.”

It’s not like Cameron is reinventing the wheel with his menu. Think instead of pub classics elevated with first-class produce and a dash of fine-dining flare. You might eat sourdough produced by Ten Acres bakery in Ninderry and served with cultured butter and sea salt; a house-made free-range Inglewood chicken schnitzel with creamed potatoes, seasonal The Falls Farm vegetables and chicken gravy; or a five-score Black Angus strip loin from the Scenic Rim served with a potato gratin, beetroot, and a beetroot-blackgarlic sauce Diane. “For us, the produce is central to the DNA of a restaurant,” Cameron says. “You can taste that wherever you eat. Simon at The Paddock and I could cook the same dish, but it would be completely different because of where we sit within our community of growers. “You’re right beside your suppliers. You’re not ordering produce into the city, say – they come to you. So when you go to a regional restaurant, you taste that area – the Scenic Rim or the Sunshine Coast or wherever it may be. It’s a brilliant reflection of place.”

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Venice, Italy - Photo by Steve McCurry

TO THE CURIOUS

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A tale of two cruises

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WORDS: FELICIA ARHONTISSAS.

The Luxury Escapes TV team recently set sail across the Mediterranean to cover life aboard Silversea Cruises’ Silver Spirit and Virgin Voyages’ Valiant Lady for an episode dedicated to the art of cruising. Travel show hosts Natalie Bassingthwaighte and Matt Le Nevez visited ancient cities in Israel, were looked after by personal butlers and partied the night away at an epic all-ship dance party.

Few things inspire more awe on Earth than the pyramids of ancient Egypt, and the Great Sphinx of Giza may be the most fascinating mystery of them all. It raises several questions: Who (or what) is it modelled after? How was it built? And what happened to its nose? For actor and singer Natalie Bassingthwaighte, seeing the Sphinx was the highlight of her recent cruise trip across the Mediterranean Sea. “I could’ve just sat there all day and taken it in,” says Nat. “As a child I’ve always loved ancient history, it’s been a dream to see the pyramids and the Sphinx was just majestic.” The Sphinx stands as the oldest known monument in Egypt and one

of the world’s largest statues. With the body of a lion and the face of a man (believed to represent the pharaoh Khafre who reigned over the Old Kingdom), this 4,500-year-old monument is a constant source of wonder. The lure of the old world is as strong as ever, in 2022 Egypt welcomed 11.7 million tourists from all over the world. This is true of cruising too, a style of travel reminiscent of times gone by. Back in the early 1900s cruising catered to the very wealthy, famous or royal, and evening dinners were a formal affair followed by dancing and a live music band.

OPPOSITE: Virgin Voyages’ ship Valiant Lady is packed full of fun from special Scarlet Nights to regular ship activities. ABOVE LEFT: Silversea Cruises’ Silver Spirit sailing the Med. ABOVE RIGHT: Natalie Bassingthwaighte and Matt Le Nevez on the high seas. DREAM BY L U XU RY E S CAP E S

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Now, cruising has never been more accessible and passengers can experience everything from small-ship adventures to big ship luxury cruising.

Silversea’s elite fleet boasts ultra-luxurious facilities, all-inclusive drinks and dining and once-in-a-lifetime shore excursions. For Nat, the appeal of cruising starts with “not having to unpack and repack a bag. You walk onto a ship and everything’s included, the service is exceptional and the food is delicious. Then, you can stop off in ports and experience things that otherwise I wouldn’t have had the opportunity to.” Following the jaw-dropping sites of Egypt, Israel was the next place to impress our host. “Israel was really quite beautiful and culturally and historically rich with its cobblestone streets, art and culture,” says Nat. If you’re seeking something truly wow-worthy, visit Israel’s UNESCO World Heritage-listed Bahá’í Hanging Gardens. Hailed as a spiritual beacon for Bahá’í pilgrims, the formal gardens are the final resting place of the prophet-herald of the faith, Báb. “Seeing the Bahá’í Hanging Gardens was spectacular,” Nat says, “I don’t think I’ve seen something so pretty in my life, and on such a grand scale.” The gardens flow down 19 steep terraces from the gold-domed shrine of the Báb, each level featuring bubbling fountains, carved stone eagle statues, starburst-shaped hedges and blooming flower beds. The shrine itself, built using Italian stone and Portuguese glazed tiles, was completed in October 1953 by Canadian architect William Sutherland Maxwell. It’s a vision of Rosa Baveno granite, goldenglazed tiles (12,000 of them), and Chiampo stone arches on the slopes of Mount Carmel.

Long days exploring significant sites call for moments of respite back aboard the Silver Spirit. “My cabin on board was super luxurious,” says Nat. “Having the bedroom all set up for me with my own lounge area and a private balcony – and a bathtub – felt so spectacular.” The cabin’s design dances between plush and sleek: a king bed with grand leather headboards, carpets as thick and soft as clouds underfoot, and plenty of natural light. Ensuites are a vision of gleaming marble and granite, with luxuriously thick towels and a full-sized bathtub. Most excitingly, each suite includes private butler service. Whitegloved butlers are at your beck and call, stocking your minibar with your preferred drinks, serving canapes in your suite and unpacking your suitcase for you. “You press a button and someone comes running – it’s perfection,” says Nat on the joys of a private butler. When it comes to dining options, one night calls for freshly flipped Naples-style pizzas at Spaccanapoli, while the next night offers a French affair at the effortlessly chic La Dame, where white-glove service and crisp table linens transport you to the streets of Paris. For Nat, nothing could beat Seishin Restaurant, exclusive to the Silver Spirit. “I’m a big sushi fan and love Japanese food, so the gorgeous boutique restaurant Seishin was amazing.” There’s a complimentary sushi and sashimi bar open to guests for lunchtime, while dinners are an intoxicating fusion of fine Asian flavours with sake pairings available. “Silversea Cruises definitely set the standards high. I’m a converted cruiser now and I can’t wait to explore the rest of the world,” Nat says.

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OPPOSITE: The Egyptian Museum in Tahrir (left); Matt Le Nevez and Natalie Bassingthwaite fuel up their rides to the Pyramids (right). ABOVE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Nat on the deck of the Silver Spirit; the pair climbing the steps at the Bahai Hanging Gardens; Silver Spirit lounges on the deck. DREAM BY L U XU RY E S CAP E S

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An ocean of entertainment After dabbling in ancient history and private butler service with Silversea Cruises, the team were ready for the next highseas adventure, this time aboard Virgin Voyages’ Valiant Lady cruising the Mediterranean Sea from France to Spain.

“This ship completely brought out my inner child,” says Nat. “We’re talking air hockey, foosball, Daytona, even a two-storey nightclub called the Manor. Plus, the music and performances on the ship are exciting and world-class.” “Virgin Voyages is an insanely fun cruise that celebrates life through utter joy and inclusion,” says Matt Le Nevez. The entertainment onboard the Valiant Lady is out-of-this-world. “I truly had to keep pinching myself to remember I was on a ship,” says Nat. “Between the extraordinary Duel Reality circus-style performance, the Scarlet Night party, drag bingo, karaoke night and my favourite, Gene Simmons’s dress up VHS workout – I was living the dream.” If you’re curious about what Scarlet Night entails, think of it as the most epic and immersive party featuring live music, dancing and guests clad in the signature Virgin Voyages shade of red. “I ended up dancing fully dressed in the pool, so I can attest to how much fun it is,” says Matt.

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stocked bar with all the mixology equipment you could ever need – these Tom Dixondesigned suites leave guests wanting for nothing. However, you can’t deny the magic that comes with the shore stops along the Mediterranean. The Valiant Lady made its way to Corsica, an island off the coast of France with a mix of stylish coastal cities, sun-soaked beaches and rich history (it was the birthplace of Napoleon Bonaparte). Following on from Corsica was Portofino in Italy, the charming coastal town with a colourful village fringing the yacht-studded harbour. “Oh, my, did I love Portofino,” says Nat. “The history and architecture took me back to a time gone by. But it was the crystalclear waters that were the most spectacular. I will be back!” For Matt, his Portofino highlight

was simply “walking the back streets of Santa Margherita Ligure and eating incredible cacio e pepe.” Finally, the Valiant Lady glided into Ibiza, where our hosts disembarked for the last time. The party island pulses with energy and the constant rhythmic beat of a DJ track. While some heeded the call of the all-day dance parties, others made a beeline for the beaches. For Nat, she had one very clear activity in mind for her time in Ibiza. “It was shopping, shopping, shopping all the way,” she says. Matt reflected on his cruising highlights and landed on: “the on-shore excursions to Corsica and Portofino were lifetime bucketlist ticks, and returning to a ship with worldclass facilities was utter indulgence.”

IMAGE: DORALIN TUNAS VIA GETTY IMAGES.

All this revelry is guaranteed to build up one’s appetite. “The food is to die for with Michelinstar chef-designed menus, amazing cocktails and friendly, inclusive staff,” says Nat. A foodie favourite of both Matt and Nat’s was Pink Agave, an upscale Mexican restaurant with cool vibes and great chilled margaritas. The menu is made up of sharable plates: frijole (black bean soup with queso Monterey), chicken enchiladas and seared shrimp with salsa verde and crema. When guests need a breather from the never-ending fun, the cabins and suites offer a slice of serenity. “My suite was perfect,” says Matt. “Clean, comfortable and my own little hideaway with ocean views. I slept better here than I do in my own bed at home.” European king beds, a private terrace with a hand-woven hammock, and a full-size, fully

OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The Virgin Voyages’ cabins; Matt having fun on board; the food and drink options are “to die for”. ABOVE: The cruise visited Portofino in Italy (left) and Corsica but the ship itself was one of the biggest drawcards for the TV show team (right). DREAM BY L U XU RY E S CAP E S

M E M E NTO

Shannen James

“There was a group of us that went to Glastonbury in 2016. The headliners were Adele, Muse and Coldplay. We saw all of them as well as many other great artists like Tame Impala, The 1975, Matt Corby, and Two Door Cinema Club just to name a few. It had rained the day before we got there so the farm was muddy slosh by the end of the fifth day and safe to say our wellies came in very handy, but everyone just had the best time. How could you not? Glasto was always high on my bucket list of things to do so we were very lucky to get tickets as we were already planning on going over to the UK. When I was there watching all the amazing bands and artists, I knew I could tick that off the list and add another onto it, for me to play there one day. I’m putting it out in the universe that 10 years from when I went, I’m going to play at it, so 2026 here we come Glasto!” Shannen James will have a new album in 2024. Head to shannenjames.com for tours, music and news.

D R E A M BY L U X U RY ES CA P ES

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SAMARA CLIFFORD.

G L ASTO NB U RY, E NG L A ND

Wristband from the 2016 Glastonbury music festival

S I NG ER-S O NGWR I T ER

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