Dream by Luxury Escapes | Issue 04

The lure of Orpheus

e Queensland island hideaway that is music to the ears of pleasure seekers

THE LUX FILES

Unwrapping

A river safari in the Namibian wetlands

Going by boat is a quieter way to travel, opening up more opportunities to see wildlife.

Getting a kick out of travelling for sport

A fan of everything from tennis and skiing to the Olympics talks about his travel goals.

Unrivalled access to Tasmania’s wild coast

If Tasmanian wilderness floats your boat this new luxury lodge on water is for you.

Walking on the wild side on Komodo

The legendary Komodo dragons are just the start of this new luxury offering.

Getting a bit of me-time in the Maldives

Would

Chinese

You won’t want to leave this Australian idyll

Orpheus Island Lodge in Queensland is an island that has perfected barefoot luxury.

e

road

in the Tuscan hills

yourself behind the wheel of a supercar and fuel up on some stellar food and wine.

Get the royal treatment on the Chao Phraya

Bangkok’s “River of Kings” has a host of new luxury offerings for travellers to explore.

Seattle is now a culinary nirvana for food fans

Once only known as the home of grunge and Starbucks, the city’s new food scene rocks.

Do more dreaming online

Be inspired by wanderlustworthy destinations, traveller’s tales and the latest travel trends online at Dream by Luxury Escapes.

luxuryescapes.com/inspiration

Free- owing cocktails, all-you-caneat dining and daily spa treatments at these all-inclusive Bali resorts.

Bangkok’s best rooftop bars: highconcept drinking spots that reach for the stars.

Also catch us at:

@luxury.escapes

facebook.com/luxuryescapes

youtube.com/luxuryescapes

@luxury.escapes

From the Luxury Escapes CEO

Luxury Escapes has been a hub of activity in the first quarter of 2024 with a huge array of sponsored events, awards nights and exciting announcements.

On the tours front, Luxury Escapes has just announced more tours in our Signature Series, once-in-a-lifetime tours designed and hosted by some of Australia’s most-loved personalities. Launched in Vietnam with a food journey designed by former MasterChef Australia judges Gary Mehigan and Matt Preston, each tour is curated by the celebrity guides ahead of time to assure you get quality with every single bite. These are the world’s best destinations as you’ve never experienced them before, and Matt and Gary have just been in India piecing together their latest trip. We have also had TV chef and Luxury Escapes Insider Miguel Maestre cooking up a storm in the Northern Territory for his take on the series. Keep an eye on our website and socials for more itineraries for this truly unique series, and be quick because they sell out fast.

Filming is also underway for the new series of Luxury Escapes: The World’s Best Holidays heading once again to Foxtel, Binge and Channel 10 with a host of familiar faces.

Luxury Escapes has been winning a few awards lately. We took out two categories

at the Power Retail All Star Bash where we won the Top Travel Retailer Award and the Top Australian Marketplace gong. And we were finalists in the Cruise Lines International Association Awards 2024 for Agency Promotion of the Year – Australia.

In March we launched a hub of our own with the Luxury Escapes Agent Hub – a revolutionary new travel product that offers travel agents across the country access to our special deals and a streamlined booking process. Agents will also be able to earn Luxury Escapes bonus credits and go on famils, so stay tuned.

We were also thrilled to see Melbourne turn on the sunshine for the inaugural Luxury Escapes Twilight Beach Polo in February, an event we are proud to sponsor. Bringing together the best in fashion, sport, food and wine, Luxury Escapes Twilight Beach Polo is one of the city’s signature social events, drawing thousands of spectators as well as plenty of Luxury Escapes Insiders, like our long-time TV host Cameron Daddo.

We have a big year ahead at Luxury Escapes as we continue to create exciting new product and partner with incredible Australian talent and exciting live events and offer our members exclusive access around Australia.

Adam Schwab

CEO and Co-founder

Luxury Escapes

18 /

THE LUX FILES

Shining a light on the new, the next, the people and the places you need to know about.

The

Wrapping up a tour of Egypt’s ancient wonders

28 / Taking a river safari in the wetlands of Namibia

52 / Going solo on a famously romantic isle

58 / Cruising New Zealand’s sights and Sounds

e latest and hottest hotel and resort openings to get on your radar

SO/Maldives

Set on the Emboodhoo Lagoon just a short boat ride from Male this is a resort with fashion at its heart.

SO/Maldives is a resort that is completely composed of bespoke all-villa accommodation and sensorial experiences rooted in fashion and art. With diverse dining, a sophisticated-yet-playful beach club and serene spa area all set around a private lagoon with the beautiful blues you expect from the region, SO/Maldives is a lesson in inclusive luxury. The resort is perfectly suited to everyone from young families and couples to groups of friends on a getaway.

Ardo

Located on the edge of the Coral Sea, the hotel is the rst ve-star accommodation in Townsville.

Ardo is refined, open and minimalist, with two signature restaurants, a day spa, rooftop pool and stop-you-in-your-tracks views. Ideal for adults and couples, Ardo perfectly blends easy-going Queensland charm with modern opulence. Hungry guests can make use of the hotel’s expansive rooftop terrace, home to Ardo Rooftop, the most casual of three onsite dining spaces, and steak and seafood eatery Marmor. On the ground floor is Terasu, which blends traditional Japanese techniques with local flavours.

Ardo boasts 132 rooms all showcasing private balconies.

The dining experiences include the casual all-day dining at Citronelle Club inspired by the flavours of Asia, the Lazuli Beach Club with a Mediterranean menu and the aromatic flavours of Arabian nights with Levantine cuisine served at signature restaurant Hadaba with endless ocean views.

SO/Maldives has curated a stylish collection of 80 beachfront and overwater villas designed for open-plan living with panoramic ocean views.

PARKROYAL Serviced Suites Jakarta

Centrally located serviced suites make for a great family stay in the busy capital.

Located in the Thamrin Nine complex, a mixed-use business destination, these stylish residences are in the heart of Jakarta and perfect for a short or long stay.

Designed by acclaimed architect Kohn Pedersen Fox Associates, PARKROYAL Serviced Suites Jakarta sits on the upper levels of Luminary Tower giving it unrivalled views across the bustling metropolis.

The 180 rooms are family friendly due to their large size and amenities and the property sits right near the Jakarta welcome monument and Ciliwung River making for excellent exploration on your doorstep.

PARKROYAL SERVICED SUITES JAKARTA

Canggu Cabana

A sophisticated resort in the heart of Bali’s Canggu, this resort is surrounded by the area’s hottest bars, restaurants and cafes.

The architect designed cabanas at this relaxed Canggu address come in a variety of styles. The starter suite comes with a plunge pool, there are rooms with bathtubs and a garden view and with views over the river. The Cabana Rooftop Seaview is an adultsonly space with a rainshower, black-out curtains and a sundeck.

Facilities include the Seabird restaurant with an Asian-fusion menu set in a light-filled room, you can relax at the Svaha Spa Nelayan with a local massage and the centrepiece is the communal infinity pool a haven to relaxation.

One of the signature experiences is rooftop yoga where you start the day with a yoga session with breathtaking sea views.

Melbourne’s newest stays

e StandardX

CABN X Kangaroo Island

O grid luxury surrounded by incredible greenery and wildlife.

CABN X in Cape St Albans on Kangaroo Island has five cabins that each feel as if they have this stretch of coastline all to themselves.

This boutique stay takes the concept of an off-grid tiny home and adds the luxuries of a private sauna, ocean-facing outdoor bath, fireplace and a custom glass skylight, surrounded by lush greenery and unparalleled ocean views.

CABN was created to provide guests with the same experience that founder and CEO, Michael Lamprell was seeking as a way to relieve stress. CABN makes sustainability a priority without compromising on delivering a unique and memorable experience for guests. It is an opportunity to increase the profile and change perceptions of ecofriendly travel because guests don’t have to compromise on comfort. SO/MALDIVES

A new boutique hotel brand from Standard International this Fitzroy location features 125 rooms with views of the city skyline and takes its design cues from the industrial history of the suburb. Aside from the rooms there is the Thai-infused menu at BANG the inhouse restaurant, The Roof a sky-high drinking spot with a Mexican theme and the hotel is walking distance to most of the area’s vibrant nightlife. It’s the first outing into Australia by the USbased group, which has hotels in New York, Los Angeles, Miami, London and the Maldives.

1 Hotel Melbourne

One of the most anticipated new stays in Melbourne is the riverside 1 Hotel currently under construction on the north side of the Yarra River. The hotel will be a mixed-use space that also includes hotel-branded residences and will have 277 guest rooms that will feature design elements that reflect the site’s former life as a working wharf. The hotel also plans to be pet-friendly and will have a strong sustainability focus.

Novotel & ibis Styles

Melbourne Airport

Melbourne Airport will get a muchneeded accommodation boost in July when this dual-branded stay releases 464-rooms adjacent to Terminal 4. The pandemic-delayed opening will offer guests the choice of affordable three-star accommodation at the ibis Styles or adding an extra star for a more comfortable stay at the Novotel. Operated by Accor, the property will include a gym and pool facilities, co-working spaces, a cafe, bar and restaurant, plus conference facilities.

CANGGU CABANA

LISSE, NETHERLANDS

Lisse is home to Keukenhof Gardens where you will find the famous Dutch tulip fields.

Photo: Overview

ese

cities are no mirage. Famous for their bright lights and more-is-more attitudes, Dubai and Las Vegas are a masterclass in excess. And while these desert oases both have decadence in spades, they don’t march to the same drum.

Dubai

From pitstop on the spice-trading route to gilded jewel on the Persian Gulf, Dubai is a seven-star city of many faces. Mega malls, manmade islands and Michelin-starred outposts co-mingle with labyrinthine souks, vibrant neighbourhoods and a deep connection to cultural roots, all colliding to make for a destination that is much more than just its high rises.

HAVE A DRINK Honeycomb Hi-Fi

Hidden behind a wall of vintage vinyl records, in a shopfront within Pullman Dubai Downtown, is Honeycomb Hi-Fi. The selfproclaimed first listening bar in the Middle East is part speakeasy, part izakaya; a dimly lit den as serious about its drinks and dining as it is about music. Craft cocktails, sake and Japanese liqueur are yours for the nursing, and eats cover raw dishes and hot, share-style plates.

SEE A SPECTACLE

La Perle

Dubai’s first permanent show, La Perle, chronicles the UAE’s pearling history with aqua-acrobatics, high dives and motorcycle stunts. Credits for Franco Dragone, artistic director, include Cirque du Soleil and Celine Dion tours. Performed in a purpose-built theatre with a stage to withstand being flooded with water, La Perle happens twice daily and is kid-friendly.

GRAB A BITE

Shiraz Nights

Shawarma is one of the city’s favourite snacks and Shiraz Nights has been perfecting this Levant street food since 1987 – now with three outposts across Dubai, all popular with locals. Thin-shaved chicken, beef or a mix of both comes plain or with extra spice, topped with garlic-spiced toum and tomato slices, all snugly wrapped in warm Iranian bread. Delicious and budget-friendly to boot.

THE NEIGHBOURHOOD

Al Fahidi

Step back into Old Dubai in Al Fahidi, once the heart of the city’s merchant trade. The labyrinthine sikkas (alleyways) hold museums and galleries, like XVA Gallery. Fuel up with a traditional Emirati breakfast and Arabic coffee at Arabian Tea House ahead of wandering between stalls at the Textile Souk, then take an abra (wooden boat) across Dubai Creek to the Gold and Spice Souks.

WHERE TO STAY

Ra es e Palm

A name synonymous with luxury, in a city built on opulence; Raffles The Palm has a private beach made with imported Maldivian sand, a lobby chandelier with 40,000 Swarovski crystals, and rooms, suites and villas with Raffles’ legendary butler service. Six onsite restaurants and the Cinq Mondes Spa (with the biggest indoor pool in the Middle East) round things out.

FROM TOP: looking out over the Persian Gulf; Raffles The Palm. OPPOSITE PAGE: a room at Wynn Las Vegas (top) and the famous Strip.

Las Vegas

If you can dream it, Las Vegas can make it happen. e city is a feast for the senses, celebrating extravagance with neon-strewn bigger-is-better panache. Prancing showgirls, behemoth bu ets and all-day pool parties aside, Las Vegas also promises a burgeoning craftcocktail culture, cool outdoor spaces and underground arts scene. Time to roll the dice.

GRAB A BITE

Sin City Wings

HAVE A DRINK e Laundry Room

No mobile phones and no photography: rules to abide by at The Laundry Room, a 22-seat speakeasy found underneath the stairs at Commonwealth, a popular bar in Downtown Las Vegas. This drinking den harks back to the nostalgia of Prohibition – just-glowing candelabras, walls adorned with newspaper clippings, tassel-trimmed tables – and only serves cocktails from a tightly curated drinks list. Bartenders will oblige discerning sippers for offbook mixes based on your preferences.

SEE A SPECTACLE

Ready to book?

Sphere and other residencies

Frank Sinatra, Elvis, Sir Elton John and Celine Dion: Las Vegas’ iconic residencies have carved out the city’s moniker as the Entertainment Capital of the World. Artists who are soon set to grace the Las Vegas stage include Madonna and Lionel Richie, and you can look to venues at resorts like Wynn Las Vegas and Caesars Palace for headliner announcements. Or catch an immersisve show at Sphere, the new 18,000+ seat venue with a wraparound 16K LED screen that was opened by U2 last year.

Swing by a Sin City Wings truck for one of the city’s most enduring street snacks – the humble chicken wing. Here, breaded and boneless wings (either regular or jumbo) come in eight saucy variations, including buffalo, spice barbecue, sweet apricot and chipotle ranch. Add a side of fries, macaroni salad or fried Oreo for a feast that will have you asking, ‘Colonel who?’.

NEIGHBOURHOOD

Downtown

Fremont Street, also known as the “original Strip”, was home to a handful of the city’s first hotels and casinos; the old signs now live in the “neon boneyard” at The Neon Museum. Hang around Fremont Street to see the nightly Viva Vision Light Show, where the promenade’s canopy screens are lit up with a dazzling display choreographed to rock and pop music hits.

WHERE TO STAY

Wynn Las Vegas

A stay at Wynn Las Vegas befits its status as the world’s largest five-star resort. Located at the north end of the Strip, expect an 18-hole golf course, waterfalls, 13 restaurants, and sculptures 110,000-flowers-strong in the lobby. Rooms have city or mountain views, and Tower Suites come with added perks like private check-in and exclusive pool access.

WORDS: STEPHANIE MIKKELSEN. IMAGES: RAFFLES THE PALM. WYNN LAS VEGAS. LUCKY-PHOTOGRAPHER, IR_STONE VIA GETTY IMAGES.

MINO, GIFU PREFECTURE

The paper

trail

Warabee Land is not your average Japanese bar. By day this is a traditional workshop in the Gifu Prefecture for the creation of washi (Japanese paper). Here washi artisan and bartender, Takanori Senda uses an ageold technique to craft the hardy paper from kozo (mulberry) branches that are steamed, stripped, soaked, dried, boiled, washed and pounded to a pulp and mixed with clear water in a vat. Takanori repeatedly dips a wooden screen into the liquid, gently moving it up and down, side to side, back and forward to spread the milky liquid packed with plant fibres evenly, creating a thick and durable form of tear-resistant paper.

e bartender’s handshake is a traditional greeting between hospitality workers; it might take the form of a signature cocktail or a simple shot. We shake hands with Takanori Senda, bartender and washi artist.

“This bar is different because you will meet artisans and their families,” says Takanori “The people you meet are just very natural, so you can talk with everyone in a friendly manner. The bar is surrounded by Japanese paper that creates a relaxing atmosphere.”

Takanori fell in love with club culture at university in Tokyo and then moved to London where he honed his bartending skills in the city’s bars and pubs where partying was a way of life. But, when he returned to Japan, he was looking for a quieter life.

“Seeking a self-sufficient lifestyle close to nature in Japan, I arrived in the beautiful city of Mino in Gifu Prefecture, where nature and

Warabee Land’s Red Eye

traditions are still alive and well,” Takanori says. “In the town of Warabi, that once flourished as a village of handmade washi, I fatefully encountered the lifestyle of a washi craftsman.”

Over a decade later, Takanori now cultivates whole fields of kozo to make his washi and hangs out with friends in the evenings when his workshop transforms into a local bar.

Should a fellow hospo worker wander into Warabee Land, they might be greeted by a Red Eye made with fresh tomatoes from his friend, Sasamoto Kasuki’s nearby tomato farm.

Sunday Monday

Located in Seki City in the Gifu region, this is a stylish space that reflects the style of the owner Marc Takai. The snacks are excellent and the bar often has acoustic live music performances.

Takahashi Shoten

Another Seki City institution, Takahashi Shoten offers a great range of vegan snacks that go well with alcohol and music (sometimes live) with a great atmosphere. Watch out for the housemade miso soup and plates of local radish.

Ukaiya Shokudo

Also in Gifu Prefecture, this is a homey space that can only fit about 10 people inside. This bar mainly serves sake, but it is very hospitable and the master is a very pleasant conversationalist.

TAKANORI’S FAVOURITE JAPANESE BARS

1 ripe tomato

350ml draught beer salt and lemon juice

Peel tomato and place in a glass. Pour in the beer. Crush the tomato with a fork or spoon. Add lemon juice and salt as you like.

LOS CABOS

Spice of life

A playground of the rich and famous, this coastal spot in Mexico o ers beach resorts mixed with the drama of the desert. Esperanza is the only private beach resort in Los Cabos and chef Allan Gutierrez mixes Mexico’s culinary traditions with tricks and ingredients he has learned on his travels.

At Cocina del Mar, Esperanza’s standout dining spot, diners are seated on a table on a rocky promontory as waves from the Sea of Cortez crash around them. Executive sous chef, Allan Gutierrez doesn’t mind a bit of drama in his cooking either, “Mexico is all about spices, family and having fun,” he says. “True to my roots, I am all about sharing a flavourful moment with my loved ones and adore when our guests experience this.”

Eggcéntrico

“This Eggslut-inspired eatery mixes wonderful buns with a rich cheesy breakfast. Joe (chef and owner) has reinvented the way we have breakfast in Cabo.”

Ruba’s Bakery & Bistro

“Wonderful for first thing in the morning, they do an amazing French toast; nestled in the heart of Colonial San Jose del Cabo, Ruba’s offering is unparalleled in the area.”

DOCECUARENTA

“The outdoor seating near to Eggcéntrico and the indoor cosy atmosphere matches perfectly with a nice selection of coffee and a great bakery.”

Agricole

“A great spot 30 minutes away from Cabo, located in the heart of a beautiful village called Pescadero. This oasis mixes a gourmet convenience store with a large culinary-to-go offering where

Allan loves watching Los Cabos grow into a culinary powerhouse with chefs from all over the world drawn to its shores for the amazing range of produce, particularly seafood. “Totoaba (local ocean fish) is the best ingredient I have ever worked with in Baja,” Allan says. “Perfect skin for pan searing and a complex flavour so all you need is a touch of salt and pepper.”

you can find fine European baked goods, coffee and Baja-style breakfast burritos, and a beautiful garden and ocean-view dining room where they serve lunch and dinner with a farm-to-table concept.”

Chubby Noodles

“A hip-hop themed ambience featuring genuine Asian dishes made with local ingredients. And, last but not least, the people who run this place combine kindness and good vibes.”

Ceviche tatemado

“This is a fusion of my two favourite Mexican dishes: ceviche and charred salsa. My mum was born and raised in Mexico City, always going crazy with spices and chillies, making a wonderful molcajete salsa every day for lunch at home, and my dad was born and raised by the sea, a coastal lifestyle full of delightful seafood. This recipe is the best of two completely different worlds.”

450g white fish

30g fresh coriander

1 white or red onion

1 Persian cucumber

1 jalapeño pepper

30g lime juice

15g soy sauce

1 charred habanero

1 charred clove of garlic

Salt, pepper and oregano to taste

Extra virgin olive oil

1. Cut the onion, cucumber and jalapeño into small pieces, add coriander stems.

2. Marinate fish for 10 minutes with lime juice blended with habanero and garlic.

3. Add salt and pepper to taste. Remove the fish from the juice and add the chopped vegetables, coriander leaves and olive oil. Taste and add salt and pepper. Add more lime juice if needed and finish with extra virgin olive oil. Add a pinch of sea salt and decorate with avocado and extra coriander leaves.

ALLAN’S FAVOURITE LOS CABOS RESTAURANTS

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Book your Sneeky Mid-Weeky today!

dearest Mummy

Ancient temples, underground burial chambers, chillingly preserved mummies and a cruise down the Nile, Jessica Bedewi embraces all that a tour of Cairo and its surrounds has to o er.

The air in the underground tomb seems to grow thicker by the second, I swallow my stubborn claustrophobia and take a step closer to the glass case in front of me. Inside lies the mummified remains of King Tutankhamun, returned to his famous final resting place in Egypt’s Valley of the Kings. However, King Tut is no longer encased in gold and surrounded by riches; instead, he’s encircled by curious travellers like me.

King Tut’s body is covered only by a white sheet, with his feet and head exposed to the enquiring eyes of the tomb’s visitors. In the centre of the chamber, the stone

sarcophagus still stands watch, cracked down the middle and emptied of its former treasure.

In my mind’s eye I can see the tomb filled with the gold and riches our group saw in The Egyptian Museum just two days prior – including the masterful death mask that once cloaked the figure behind me, adorned with gold, coloured glass and sparkling gemstones.

This expedition marks my first time on a structured tour.

As someone who usually explores independently, the energy is markedly different than my usual travels but the speedier pace of travel is a welcome

one, meaning I can fit in more of Egypt’s endless ancient riches and come to understand the history behind them.

Not to mention, Cairo is home to just a small portion of Egypt’s most impressive historic marvels, namely the pyramids and Great Sphinx of the Giza Plateau. The rest of the country’s wonders (including King Tut’s impressive tomb) are scattered across the nation, with many conveniently falling near the banks of the Nile River where, as part of the tour, we are setting off on a cruise, miles away from the frenzied streets of Cairo.

OPPOSITE: the author explores Egypt for the first time taking in the ancient wonders of Luxor. THIS PAGE FROM TOP: the famous Great Sphinx keeps watch as travellers wander in its shadow; King Tutankhamun’s cracked sarcophagus surrounded by a mural.

Tour Egypt with Luxury Escapes

Sift through the sands of ancient Egypt and uncover stories of a spectacular civilisation on this captivating small-group tour (max. 20 travellers). Witness the majesty of the pharaohs and uncover their sprawling kingdom with stays at the stately Fairmont Nile City and a decadent Nile River cruise aboard the MS Nile Style. Stand in the shadow of the Great Pyramid of Giza – the last remaining Ancient Wonder of the World – and marvel at the majesty of the enigmatic Great Sphinx, then sit down for a mouth-watering Egyptian feast overlooking these phenomenal feats of architecture.

Beyond the pyramids

The Nile River flows for more 6,600 kilometres from the south to the north of Africa, finishing where it spills into the Mediterranean Sea. We are cruising just a small portion of it.

Along the banks, where water meets land, the topography melts from a glistening blue to a rich green. Intermittent palm trees break up dense grass that then eases into row after row of fertile plants. Beyond the flourishing foliage, the landscape then fades back into a muted desert beige – the kind of sandy terrain you’d expect to see in Egypt and a transition that is so stark it is visible from space.

It’s the first time I’ve seen the Nile in all its glory. Following a short flight from Cairo to Luxor, I boarded the boat on the fourth day of my tour, though it remained docked for two days, allowing our group plenty of time to explore what is often referred to as the

world’s largest open-air museum. It’s not hard to see why; a drive through Luxor takes you past dozens upon dozens of ruins, some open to the public and some still being uncovered.

But while Karnak Temple and Luxor Temple both leave me awestruck, with their massive pillars and elaborate illustrations carved into every open space, nothing is more impressive than the Valley of the Kings. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the valley was an ancient burial ground for nearly all the pharaohs crowned from 1539–1075 BCE. Home to 62 known tombs, including King Tut’s famous burial chamber, the underground crypts are comprised of room after room delving deeper into the earth, painstakingly created by workers who were blindfolded when brought to and from the site, ensuring no one could disturb the pharaoh’s final resting places.

It is in these vast subterranean corridors that I descend into the tombs. My gaze wanders upward on my trek to the chamber of the sarcophagus, where a shock of bright colour captures my attention. The vibrant mural on the ceiling is a deep blue, broken up by striking gold stripes, each with a unique set of painted hieroglyphs comprised of clear whites, bright reds and eye-catching turquoises.

Ancient temples, underground burial chambers, chillingly preserved mummies and a cruise down the Nile, Jessica Bedewi embraces all that a tour of Cairo and its surrounds has to o er.

The mural is the closet thing I’ve seen to the vivid glory that the original Egyptian relics boasted in their heyday. Since the country is so often depicted in varying shades of brown, I was surprised to learn that each ancient Egyptian monument was once a rainbow of brilliant colours. While the pyramids once shined with a reflective golden sheen, the temples and tombs were a study in vibrance. Every open space, now faded to beige, was once a kaleidoscope of colour.

Wrapping it up

The final night of the tour has me soaking up Egypt’s colours once again, those created by nature on a local boat trip. Our Nile cruise sailed from Luxor to Aswan, punctuated by a visit to Kom Ombo temple and its unique museum of crocodile mummies made to honor the crocodile-headed god Sobek. It concluded with a tour of Aswan’s isolated Philae Temple, accessible only by boat.

But before my tour is over, I board a felucca – a traditional Egyptian wooden boat with a canvas sail. Our guides are two Nubian men who pepper our zig-zagging journey from bank to bank of the Nile with their traditional songs. The water is

still and glass-like, just out of reach from the side of the boat. Our expedition takes us past Nubian villages, where locals are cooking their dinner on the riverbank, wild dogs roam free and a camel tracks our progress from his unmoving position, steps from the water.

While the day was still bright when our voyage began, the light slowly dips towards the horizon, painting the sky in a tapestry of pinks, reds and yellows. As the sun sets on my adventure, with the colours of Egypt bleeding into the night sky, I send a quick thank you to whatever gods are listening (crocodileheaded and otherwise) for a truly magical experience.

OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: illustrations in Valley of the Kings tomb; cruising the Nile; the Pyramids of Giza. FROM TOP: the architecture of Kom Ombo temple; sailing a felucca on the Nile; where river meets desert.

Head to your happy place

Travellers love Fiji for its genuine hospitality, family friendliness and natural beauty. is island paradise can be an adults-only luxury retreat or a multi-generational get together, a sustainable stay or an islandhopping adventure, say Bula to doing Fiji your way.

The 333 islands that make up Fiji are beloved by travellers for their incredible undersea life viewed through crystal clear waters, gently swaying palms that line idyllic beaches and a warm climate that is only eclipsed by the genuine warmth of the people,

personified in a beautiful Bula welcome.

But this island nation also offers incredible variety whether you are a food fan, a nature lover or an adventure seeker. Fiji is “where happiness comes naturally”, so pick the Fiji holiday that takes you to your happy place.

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

Stylishly sustainable

Fiji’s myriad of resorts do not take the fragile island ecosystem for granted with most stays doing everything they can to make sure that tourism is sustainable and the natural beauty preserved. At Likuliku, a luxury adults-only resort, they have an environmental partnership with the villages on the Malolo Islands who have declared their lagoon a marine protected area. At Six Senses Fiji sustainable measures include making their own high-quality drinking water and growing their own organic produce for use in the resort restaurant. Turtle Island goes to great lengths to protects its namesake with its Turtle Conservation program throughout the Yasawa Islands. While Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort keeps a close eye on the reef in conjunction with Ocean Futures Society.

Islands of adventure

Embark on a maritime adventure when you hire a private yacht charter from operators like Big Blue Fiji. Sail alongside squadrons of manta rays, go deep sea fishing or plunge into the pristine waters off the back of your own boat.

How about taking a helicopter ride up the fast-flowing Navua River and then bouncing back down on a white-knuckle, white-water rafting ride?

Or perhaps you prefer your adventure with a side order of luxury. If so, try the glamping at Nanuku Resort, a tropical oasis set in 500-acres of pristine Fijian coastline where you can sip Champagne on the beach or take a hike to a stunning waterfall.

Grown-up getaways

The adults-only, luxury resort on Turtle Island has been lauded as Fiji’s top resort by Conde Nast Traveller thanks to 12 private beaches, its proximity to the famous Blue Lagoon and the fact it is only ever home to just 14 couples.

At Lomani Island Resort in the Mamanuca islands, you will find a boutique experience that is one of the most romantic stays in the whole of Fiji with incredible local food, couples coral reef snorkelling and relaxing spa treatments. After all, lomani is the Fijian word for love.

Barefoot luxury awaits at Royal Davui Island Resort, which is one of the most exclusive resorts in the world situated on the dreamy Beqa Lagoon on its own private island. This resort has scooped a host of awards for the past few years and makes for an unforgettable couple’s retreat. The single, must-do activity is to play castaway with a picnic on your very own private sand cay and you’ll feel like you have the entire Pacific Ocean to yourself.

e luxury of family time

Tapping into the trend of multi-generational holidays, Fiji has residences that can accommodate large families at resorts like Six Senses, Kokomo, VOMO and Nanuku, most come with private butlers and all have their own pools and kitchens, making it feel like a resort within a resort. There are also hotels with multi-room options in the InterContinental, Hilton and Radisson Blu.

Fiji loves families, and it is famous for its incredible nanny services and kids club. There are a host of activities that everyone can get involved with from exploring the calm waters, to hikes in the lush interior, and you can always count on the incredible hospitality to look after the kids if the adults need a little time to themselves on a family getaway.

Always friendly, always beautiful, Fiji can also be whatever island holiday it is that makes you happy.

ONE NIGHT IN...

Ho Chi Minh City

An intense nocturnal experience in all the best ways, a night out in Ho Chi Minh City means the punchy avours of street food, cold beer while you sit on milk crates in loud alleyways and that heart-in-your-throat feeling of crossing a Saigon street teeming with scooters.

Here is your planner for the perfect night out in Ho Chi Minh City.

6pm Heart of the city

The Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers is right in the heart of the District 1 action but is an oasis of calm, from the serene, cream-coloured lobby to the spacious rooms decked out with red tapestries and bay windows looking out onto the river of motorbikes below. Sink into a chair at the Lounge Bar or take a tipple at the Wine Bar and plan your night. When you do hit the streets you’ll find markets, brilliant banh mi and small, neon-lit bars a short walk away.

7pm Hitting the streets

Nguyen Hue Walking street is just a few hundred metres from the hotel and has a pedestrian strip in the centre that runs all the way up to the French colonial city hall building. Quiet by day, at night the street is packed with street vendors selling neon-flashing children’s toys, street snacks and people getting selfies with golden-hued Burmese pythons.

11pm Sky high views

Ho Chi Minh City offers one of the most spectacular skylines in Asia, and Social Club Rooftop Bar – above the Hotel des Art Saigon MGallery – is one of the best places to soak it in. Bow-tied bartenders execute a conceptforward cocktail menu that dances between cutting-edge and classicly cool – try the coconut-washed Indochina Connection, the perfect antidote to warm southern nights.

12am Disneyland of Seafood

District 4’s “Disneyland of Seafood”, or Vinh Kanh Street, doesn’t disappoint – the food is just that good, served lightning-fast and following with thunderclaps of flavour. Don’t miss out on local favourites like crab claws flash-fried in chilli and scallion – the street food spot is also the perfect place to try French-inspired dishes like “jumping chicken”, aka frogs’ legs.

8pm Nesting instinct

There’s only one rule at Cooku’s Nest: when the music is playing, there’s no conversation allowed. It’s a ruthlessly romantic space: expect great coffee by candlelight, soul-stirring Vietnamese ballads and quiet moments that linger a little longer than you’d expect. Tucked away in Ho Chi Minh City’s popular District 1, it’s a refreshingly quiet spot among countless nightclubs and rooftop bars.

9pm Say cheese

As strange as it sounds, forgo the pho and head to this HCMC pizza parlour packed with in-the-know Saigon locals who come for the locally made burrata. When Pizza 4P’s founder Masuko Takasugi first started making this cheese in Ho Chi Minh City he was an oddity but a decade later he is set to open new restaurants in India and his home of Japan. The secret is not just great pizza (and cheese) but a positive message, 4P’s (for peace) is huge on sustainability and empowering local farmers; have the signature burrata parma ham pie and a 4P’s yuzu wheat beer.

1am Late-night leap

Carmen’s requires a leap of faith from first-time visitors: you’re required to crouch beneath a low-hanging arch to descend into the wine cellar/bomb shelter the venue calls home. Once inside, the atmosphere’s more flamenco than fearsome, illuminated by fairy lights and showcasing eclectic local acts. Our advice? Don’t be scared to dance.

WORDS PAUL CHAI AND NATE ROBINSON. IMAGES: (LEFT) HIEN PHUNG –STOCK.ADOBE.COM, (RIGHT, TOP TO BOTTOM) SHERATON SAIGON HOTEL & TOWERS, PIZZA 4P’S, HOTEL DES ART SAIGON MGALLERY.

OPPOSITE: Nguyen Hue Walking street leading to the French colonial city hall. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: the Wine Bar at Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers; the signature burrata pizza at Pizza 4P’s; Social Club Rooftop Bar.

Seasonal delights

Some of the best times to visit Canada are when the snow is covering the natural landscape and the maple leaves are turning the deep reds that they appear on the national ag. Jennifer Ennion highlights the best things to do in autumn and winter in Canada.

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

Craggy

and

greet me as I enter Tombstone Territorial Park, in the

and as I set out on foot I discover wild blueberry

the hillside. Nicknamed “the Torres del Paine of the north”, Tombstone Territorial Park is impressive; there’s barely another soul in sight, such is the beauty of travelling through Canada in autumn. I’ve been to Yukon in the depths of winter, too, when the environment is equally as beautiful and grand. And, after a decade of exploring this country, I can say for certain that “beautiful” and “grand” can be found in every province and territory.

mountain peaks

a sweeping valley

Yukon. Fading dwarf birch paints the landscape gold,

bushes crawling across

With forest covering large swathes of Canada, the quieter season of autumn is great for hiking and cycling trails, wildlife-watching, and mingling with locals in cafes.

Winter in Canada Autumn in Canada

Forest bathing

One of the best places to experience the shifting autumn landscape is in Nova Scotia’s Annapolis Valley. Enjoy the colours while cycling past wineries, historic sites and apple orchards. If you’re staying on the West Coast, put Davison Orchards, in BC’s Okanagan, on your itinerary. This Vernon farm and bakery is famous for its pumpkin pies, available in October.

Wildlife viewing

Autumn is prime time to see some of Canada’s amazing wildlife, and there is nowhere better to start than on Vancouver Island, in British Columbia. Take a boat tour to catch sight of orcas, Pacific grays, minkes and humpbacks. There are also black bears in the region, as well as grizzly bears in the magnificent Great Bear Rainforest. Although tours start in spring, they run through October, an ideal month because it’s not as busy.

Manitoba’s polar bears should also be on your list. The tiny northern town of Churchill has been nicknamed the “polar bear capital of the world”, and you can expect to see plenty with an expert guide from mid-October to mid-November.

Outdoor activities

Canada is riddled with leafy hiking and cycling routes, such as Vancouver’s harbourfront Stanley Park. If you want to go bigger, tackle a portion of The Great Trail, a nationwide network of trails. Alternatively, one of the country’s best walking destinations is Cape Breton Island in Nova Scotia.

Forget hibernating, Canada comes alive in winter with festivals, adventure races, skiing, and the magical Northern Lights. Canada is the quintessential winter wonderland.

Winter festivals

Skiing and snowboarding

Canada’s mountains are a magnet for skiers and snowboarders. The Rocky Mountains slice along the border of British Columbia and Alberta, and in the shadow of the snow-capped peaks you will find the buzzing town of Banff, with its three ski resorts, luxury hotels and fine dining. Head east to discover BC’s famous Powder Highway with its authentic ski communities. Further east still is the multi-award winning Whistler Blackcomb, a drawcard for its big-mountain terrain.

Canadians know how to have fun in winter, and one of the most exhilarating experiences for travellers is to follow the Yukon Quest. Experienced mushers compete in three sled dog races through the Yukon wilderness. Visitors can get involved by following one of the routes and lapping up the atmosphere in remote communities such as Dawson City. You can also join a dog-sledding tour with companies including Sky High Wilderness Ranch. Also in February is the world’s largest winter celebration, the 10-day Quebec Winter Carnival.

Northern Lights

There is nothing like watching the sky light up with the Aurora Borealis. The dancing green, pink and purple swirls are a natural phenomenon best viewed in autumn and winter. Fortunately for travellers, the Yukon, Northwest Territories and Churchill, Manitoba, all provide front-row seats to this incredible lightshow.

Safari, so good

Kate Webster visits the KAZA region, Africa’s largest Transfrontier Conservation Area, where she takes a quiet boat along the Kwando-Linyanti river system and discovers a water-based wildlife encounter like no other.

“Keep your eyes peeled for the elusive sitatunga,” my fellow boat passenger Mike Unwin says, scanning the surroundings with binoculars. “They are one of the most aquatic antelope species and have many adaptations that allow them to spend time in the water, like shaggy coats of thin hair that have an oily, water-repellent secretion.”

While Mike’s binoculars shift left watching a majestic African fish eagle swoop down to snatch fish from the water, I squint at movement in the reeds ahead.

“Sitatunga,” I squeal, pointing at the antlers moving through the dense papyrus.

I am wrong. Instead, it is another of the Caprivi’s three water-dwelling antelope, a red lechwe. It was still exciting for me as I had never seen one before and I grab my camera for a photo before it leaps through the kneehigh waters to join its herd.

I am touring the KAZA region of Africa. The world’s largest conservation area, it stretches within the borders of Angola, Botswana,

Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe. Here, parts of the Okavango and Zambezi River basins flow out like veins bleeding life into the 520,000-kilometres-square region.

I am a regular visitor to Africa. I have trekked with mountain gorillas in Rwanda and sat in a safari jeep for hours waiting to see cheetahs in Kenya. In all my journeys, I have never found a place that is so wild, so diverse and so untamed as the KAZA region.

In the Kavango-Zambezi (KAZA) Transfrontier Conservation Area (TFCA), national borders become mere lines on a map, and the wildlife takes centre stage.

While the most well-known components of KAZA are the Chobe National Park, Hwange National Park, Kafue National Park, the Makgadikgadi Pans, the Okavango Delta and Victoria Falls, I have ventured into the unique Namibian wetland paradise in the eastern Caprivi region, known by the locals as Mamili before it was recently renamed Nkasa Lupala National Park.

Tour Africa with Luxury Escapes

Luxury Escapes offers a range of African tours from Kruger National Park in South Africa to a small-group tour of Kenya with stays at luxury Fairmont properties. There are also tours of the markets and rooftop bars of Morocco.

Ready to go on tour?

OPPOSITE: a water safari may be unusual but it is a great way to see different types of African wildlife. ABOVE, FROM TOP: a Caprivi red lechwe; wildlife gathering for a drink; the Namibian wetlands.

Going with the flow

This unique conservation area is home to rare endemic birds, large herds of elephants and everything in between. This was most evident as I boarded our boat on the Kwando-Linyanti River system; hippos bask in the shallows while an elephant saunters along the riverbank, quenching its thirst.

The transition from viewing wildlife from a safari vehicle on land to watching wildlife from the boat was completely different. Unlike the rumble of engines on land, the silent glide of the boat allows you to become one with the environment and this tranquillity has a profound impact on the animals’ behaviour.

On land, the animals often perceive the presence of safari vehicles and this causes some to be cautious or reticent. The gentle approach of the boat seems to give the animals a sense of security. I notice the wildlife behaving more naturally as they go about their daily activities.

Disembarking the boat, the wildlife safari experience continues on the drive to the lodge: a female lion walks across the track ahead and is joined by a male. After posing for a few photographs, the lions slink away into the undergrowth. With the sun now setting, it is time for me to retreat to the lodge.

MAIN PHOTO: hippos keep an eye on the boat as it travels the KwandoLinyanti River. ABOVE: the main area of Nkasa Lupala Tented Lodge.

RIGHT: the view from a tented suite and the suite itself (far right).

Built on the banks the Kwando-Linyanti river system, Nkasa Lupala Tented Lodge was the first lodge to establish operations in the Nkasa Rupara National Park.

My tented suite, perched on raised platforms, seamlessly blends into the surrounding landscape, offering a harmonious connection between comfort and untamed wilderness. This is evident when I have to wait for some impala that were grazing to shift away from the entrance to my suite before I enter. The African safari experience comes right up to your doorstep at Nkasa Lupala. I am told at dinner that lion, elephant, buffalo and rare wetland species such as lechwe, sitatunga and reed buck often frequent the lodge.

I indulge in a hearty meal and a few gin and tonics as I discuss my day’s sightings with other guests. My favourite part of an evening in the African bush is sitting around the campfire in the boma, (livestock enclosure) telling stories of our day’s sightings. With heavy eyes and a full stomach, it’s time to retire to my suite.

I am guided by a staff member wielding a spotlight, my protection from any wildlife that may be around, and reminded to keep my door closed as this is an unfenced camp. Cocooned in comfort and surrounded by the sounds of the wild, I drift into dreams of the Africa I had seen, a continent that can surprise even the most regular visitor.

IMAGES: KATE WEBSTER. CLARANILA VIA GETTY IMAGES (TOP).

TRAVEL ESSAY

Big game hunters

Sport, either as a spectator or participant, is the driving force behind where to travel for an increasing number of people with the global sports tourism market worth billions.

Mark Da ey has skied in South Korea, attended the Commonwealth Games in Manchester and played cricket in the Middle East. He re ects on the addictive lure of travel for sport.

It’s late January, when the Australian Open Tennis Championships, held each year in Melbourne’s sports precinct fringing the CBD, had just ended. For the second year running, European players took home the men’s and women’s singles crowns, cheered on by a tournament record of more than one million spectators.

This year was the first time crowd numbers topped the magic million mark across the 15-day competition, smashing the previous attendance record by 20 per cent. Hundreds of millions of dollars flowed into the Victorian economy, with National Australia Bank data estimating a financial injection of $482 million, adding to the $2.7 billion already spent during the previous decade.

According to Australian Open organisers, more than 50 per cent of visitors travel from outside Melbourne to attend the event. What’s clear is that sport, either as a participant or spectator, is inspiring more people to travel.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY KATIE FORD

Take me, for instance. I’ve just returned from a six-week trip around Europe, where I came and went from a friend’s place in Basel, a Swiss city of 200,000 people bordering Germany and France. I did what most foreign travellers do while I was there, going to museums and galleries, drinking my share of mulled wine at Christmas markets and wandering through cobbled streets in historic town centres. Mostly, though, I skied.

Skiing was the main incentive for me travelling to Europe during winter but the timing also coincided with the European soccer and ice hockey seasons and, being the sports nut that I am, I wanted to catch a game of each.

First off was a Swiss Super League soccer match pitting Basel against rivals Grasshopper Club Zurich. I was hoping for a lively, atmospheric game. Luckily for me, the Gods delivered – a goal was scored late in the match, fans chanted non-stop from behind the goals, and fireworks and

flares erupted from the stands.

Next was a Swiss League ice hockey match between Basel and GCK Lions. “But Basel are horrible,” I was told on more than one occasion when I shared my plans. I didn’t care. To my untrained eye, the players skated like Torvill and Dean and brawled like Rocky Balboa. Seven goals were scored, punches were thrown, the pace was frenetic and Basel won. They weren’t so bad after all.

I also made a special trip to Lausanne purely so I could visit the Olympic Museum at the global sports organisation’s headquarters overlooking Lake Leman. Ever since my father bought our first VCR in 1980, just prior to the Summer Games in Moscow, I’ve been an Olympic junkie. Events back then were staged in the middle of the night, Melbourne-time, so before or after school the next day we’d watch replays of my track heroes.

I continued to follow the Olympics closely every four years as they moved onto Los Angeles, Seoul and Atlanta. I’ve run laps of the Olympic Stadiums in Athens, Helsinki and Berlin, and of course in Melbourne, where a synthetic track overlaid the hallowed turf of the Melbourne Cricket Ground in 1956.

My sole reason for visiting Greece’s Peloponnese Peninsula was a pilgrimage of sorts to Olympia, the site of the Ancient Games. Unlike those free-spirited athletes at the time, I prudishly kept my clothes on.

I also held a gold-coloured Maglite® – my Olympic torch – aloft while running a lap of the original grass track.

Then it was our turn to host the Games in 2000. Sydney was my chance to see one of the world’s greatest sporting events in person. I joined the lottery for whatever tickets I could get my hands on. That week I spent in Sydney, going to stadiums, cheering on marathon runners and road cyclists on the streets and revelling in the city’s party atmosphere, was one of the greatest experiences of my life.

A league of their own

Sports such as tennis or athletics are more than just leisure activities these days. They’re big business. Global sports events such as the Australian Open or Olympic Games act as economic drivers, creating jobs and boosting spending at retail and hospitality venues. Add to that the hangover effect where tourism numbers increase for years after a sports event because of the heightened awareness of that place as a travel destination.

According to a VynZ Research study published in October 2023, the global sports tourism market is currently valued at $867 billion. That figure is expected to grow to $3100 billion by 2030, with Europe leading the charge, followed by North America. Asia-Pacific, which includes China, India and Australia, is the fastest-growing region. It is expected to topple the other two within 10 years.

Here in Australia, where television networks are paying inflated sums for the rights to broadcast NBA or English Premier League (EPL) games, it’s becomingly increasingly popular to travel overseas for sport. Who wouldn’t

want to watch a sumo wrestling tournament in Tokyo or a Muay Thai bout in Bangkok.

Premium Sports Tours offer supporter tours to international rugby, golf and motor sports events from their Melbourne base and is an official ticket seller for English Premier League.

“We find travellers are not necessarily going to England for the Premier League, but they realise when they are travelling that there is a match on and that’s when they contact us,” says Ryan Alexander, general manager of the company. “Cricket (test tours) would be the biggest enquiry we would receive though. Our most popular tours are the Ashes in England and the FIFA World Cup, both every four years.”

Cricket has experienced phenomenal growth due to innovations designed to make the game more appealing to spectators. Oneday cricket matches were considered gimmicky at first, even though they can look positively pedestrian compared to the Twenty20 matches that have exploded in popularity, largely because of the wildly successful Indian Premier League competition that started in 2008. Stadiums are now regularly packed out by a new generation of starry-eyed fans who

are lured by swashbuckling batting, explosive fireballs and rock-star players.

Melburnians are unusually sports-mad and the unrivalled number of world-class facilities within walking distance of the city reflect that fervour. We’ve always been eager spectators, I mean we even have a public holiday for the day before a football grand final.

“We get business off the back of events like the Australian Open and the Grand Prix. Probably the biggest for us though are the AFL season and the Spring Carnival,” says Tamara Roder, Sports Tour Manager for Show Me Melbourne. “Visitors will plan a weekend around attending an event or game. Especially with the Brits, or someone who has relatives in another state, they’ll specifically come to Melbourne because they know it’s the sporting heartland of Australia and they want to see the MCG.”

Maybe that upbringing of mine, surrounded by that Melbourne vibe, influenced my love of sport. Or maybe it was genetic, inherited from a sport-loving father. Whatever the reason, it’s short odds you’ll find me cheering on our Olympic athletes in Brisbane in eight years’ time.

A star is reborn

e Carlton Cannes is a veteran beauty that was always the belle of the ball during the famous Cannes Film Festival, but a new multi-million dollar renovation means it is once again ready for its close up.

e details

The Carlton Cannes is a Regent Hotel, part of IHG Hotels and Resorts.

58 Boulevard de la Croisette, Cannes

e lowdown

Refreshed and reinvigorated after a major multi-year renovation, the Carlton Cannes is once again the Belle of the Riviera, glowing in the soft light above Cannes’ Promenade de la Croissette across from the Mediterranean.

e abode

My light-filled beige and white Sea View Suite has an expansive living room and bedroom each with alcoves sporting floor-to-ceiling French doors that open to embrace the balmy breezes. The bedroom alcove features a loveseat while the living room alcove has a perfectly placed armchair and ottoman so you can savour that million-dollar view. For a splurge, book the Grace Kelly or Cary Grant suites, which pay hommage to Alfred Hitchcock’s 1955 movie To Catch a Thief

e menu

Enjoy local seafood at the yellow-andwhite-striped Carlton Beach Club perched right behind the beach. Feast on Anatolian dishes at Ruya restaurant and Mediterranean specialities at the Belle Epoque Riviera Restaurant, each located in prime position at either end of the grand entrance lobby. Relax with a cocktail on the serene garden terrace of Bar 58 and discover the expansive tea menu in the airy Camelia Tea Lounge.

e conclusion

Location, pedigree, glamour, and beauty, the Carlton Cannes has it all.

e highlight

The hotel has retained its beautiful bones, including its famous Belle Epoque facade, while its interiors have been opened and lightened with a subtle colour palette of dusky rose, pale grey, ochre and oatmeal to imbue the whole property with an elegant modern aesthetic. There’s now a calm garden oasis in the rear of the property with the largest hotel infinity pool in Cannes.

e locale

The Carlton Cannes is centre stage to all the glamour of the Cote d’Azur with palm trees swaying and the sparkling waters of the Mediterranean winking under cloudless blue skies. And when the Cannes Film Festival is in full swing each May, the movie stars and glitterati all stay at the Carlton Cannes.

Dream destination

e Northern Territory is the perfect place for visitors to learn more about Australia’s unique Indigenous culture, whether it is being awe-struck by the colours of an Uluru sunrise, seeing a modern interpretation of dreamtime stories using high-tech drones, or getting a taste of the local produce. Celebrity chef, Miguel Maestre, nds a feast for the senses in the NT.

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

Miguel Maestre was travelling the Northern Territory researching a Luxury Escapes Signature Series tour. These celebrity-hosted, ultra-exclusive tours are run by Australia’s most beloved personalities.

“I think that experiencing a sunrise at Uluru is up there with the greatest wonders of the world,” says chef, author and television presenter Miguel Maestre. “I would compare it with the Northern Lights in Lapland, the 1200 steps of Lion Rock in Sri Lanka or the Plaza Mayor in Madrid, my home country.”

Miguel felt both “impressed and nurtured” during his early morning walk around the base of the famous rock. Normally something that he had only seen on video, Instagram or Tik Tok, he was struck by how the experience was far more than just a visual experience.

“It is hard to put in words the intensity of the colours that you see,” Miguel says. “You have to see it to believe it, the colours of the vegetation and the red dirt is so intense and I have also been putting

my hands in the dirt and feeling the wind everywhere I go. There is something very spiritual about the place.

“In Uluru what I felt was a big fountain of knowledge and all these stories of the people that you meet along the way, the guides and fellow travellers, you really get to take home some really lovely emotions not just the pictures and the good times that you have; you go home with a lot of knowledge of things I did not know before.”

The Wintjiri Wiru drone show at the Ayers Rock Resort provided Miguel with the region’s dreamtime stories. Meaning “beautiful view out to the horizon”, the show is a cultural storytelling experience that fuses modern technology with the oldest culture on the planet, bringing to life the ancestral Mala story. The tale of the Mala (rufous hare-wallaby) people includes celebration, rivalry and a huge devil dog called Kurpany and it is told as the sun goes down over Uluru.

Taste of the Territory

It would not be a trip for Miguel Maestre if he did not deep dive into the area’s flavours and natural ingredients.

“I had an amazing crocodile pie with the curry spices, quandong marmalade with bread-and-butter pudding and I had some fantastic bush tomato relish,” the chef says. “But I also loved a charcuterie board that we had with emu smallgoods, cured kangaroo pastrami and saltbush, and I will take a lot of those flavours home with me.

“I am going to try to cook a crocodile pie at home and I am going to maybe add a little chorizo and try to get a bit of Spanish influence in there. All of those ingredients I have at home already, so I use pepperberry on steak and when I make shortbread, I add some lemon myrtle but being up there in the Northern Territory I am even more inspired to work with indigenous ingredients.”

But there is one thing in particular that has stuck with Miguel after a visit to the state.

“I think the Northern Territory has an unbelievable level of authenticity,” he says. “Whether it is the red dirt, the funky Australian clothes like a proper outback hat or learning about Indigenous culture there is just nothing else like it.”

A visit to the Northern Territory is about connection to country, it is about flavours you will find nowhere else and it is about taking a little piece of the Red Centre with you when you leave.

Totally wild

Tasmania’s rugged south-wast coast is home to living fossils, waterways teeming with marine life and, now, an On Board oating lodge that puts this wealth of wilderness a few steps from your luxury stay. Keen birdwatcher, Sara Rudling, sets sail for this inaccessible region of the Apple Isle binoculars rmly in hand.

There’s a friendly debate going on aboard the other tender boat as to who spotted them first, but by the time I’ve got my camera out, it’s too late –the timid chartreuse parrots have already flown away. It’s the final day of our six-night expedition cruise in Port Davey, a sliver of coastal countryside in the vast Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area. I am trying to take a photo of the critically endangered Orange-bellied Parrots (OBPs) before they migrate from Tasmania’s south-west shores to venture north and scatter across South Australia. With less than 200 OBPs left in the wild and being notoriously flighty, seeing them anywhere but their nesting grounds in Port Davey is not a bet worth taking.

Our skipper, Pieter van der Woude, has brought us back to Melaleuca for one last chance to spot these rare birds. Pieter – founder of On Board, captain of the Odalisque III, experienced abalone diver and retired police officer – has one more fascinating feather in his proverbial cap: he’s an avifauna fan. “You’re into birds?” is the first thing Pieter asks me after I have dropped off my bags in my coastal-inspired cabin aboard the Odalisque III, an elegant 24-metre catamaran built in Hobart that moors at the confluence of environmentally sustainable design and boutique on-water accommodation. As soon as I confirm I’m a kindred birder, it becomes just one of the many highlights during my visit to one of the most unique luxury adventures in Australia.

Odalisque III is the latest addition to the Luxury Lodges of Australia collection, which includes fellow

Tasmanian superstar Saffire Freycinet and True North in The Kimberley. Purpose-built to navigate the niches of Port Davey Marine Reserve, her expedition is an intimate initiation to a UNESCO-recognised natural wonder – one of only two locations in the entire world that satisfies 7 of the 10 classification criteria. It is a secret realm of quartzite mountains, ancient forests and oscillating waterways where living fossils like King’s Holly, a plant dating back over 40,000 years, can grow undisturbed. Since it is accessible only by air or sea, Port Davey has also managed to waylay excessive visitor numbers; a boon for pristine wilderness lovers.

The Odalisque III is Pieter’s ode to the island state. Every aspect of her home-grown Hobart build incorporates local materials so the onboard experience feels like a natural extension to the wild world beyond. Wide windows line the vessel port-to-starboard, inviting views of tannin-tinted waves and tree-lined beaches into the spacious suites and shared spaces. The rare Huon pine also features in the grand gold-hued timber helm and more subtly as carved housekeeping room signs. Even entering my cabin “teralina” (named after Eaglehawk Neck’s dual name in the palawa kani language), its woodsy, vetiver scent is a breath of temperate rainforest to match linens printed with illustrations of Tasmanian botanicals.

Tasmania isn’t only found in Odalisque III’s timbers and between pages of the onboard library books – it’s also chopped, charred and served up as the hero of each culinary creation by On Board head chef Courtney Drew. Every meal served on Odalisque III is a casual affair and guests can attend in sandals or even bare feet. Gathered around the Huon pine dining table that night, we swap stories between bites of an opulent “Surf & Turf” platter: strips of Cape Grim hanger steak alongside smoky charred crayfish (a deceptively understated nickname for the succulent Southern Rock Lobster) and the tang of chimichurri.

As the days continue, the head chef makes sure that no matter how deep we are in this sprawling segment of World Heritage area that encompasses almost a quarter of Tasmania, we never go without. After several stretches of bushbashing through copses of Smithton peppermint eucalypts and tea trees, I am resting at the sandbank of Hannant Inlet watching trickles of freshwater flow into the enormous blue ocean. There are only the six of us on the beach and in the immense quietude. Suddenly, our guide Paul breaks out the white chocolate and raspberry muffins Courtney baked that morning. It’s an unexpected slice of home in Port Davey.

IMAGES: SARA RUDLING.

e Tasman a Luxury Collection Hotel, Hobart

This award-winning Hobart city escape is the nexus of contemporary, classic and heritage luxury. Over 170 years of architectural history is celebrated across 152 rooms and suites, incorporating bold Art Deco design and original Georgian details. Book in for an Italian-Tasmanian feast at Peppina restaurant, soak in harbour views, and cheers to the night with a cocktail at speakeasystyled bar, Mary Mary.

Sunsets and fine wine

Our itinerary often has to adapt to the whims of the weather. Strong winds may mean the tinnies are in for a bumpy ride, but it also encourages freewheeling shearwaters to take to the sky for our viewing pleasure and curious dolphins to inspect the vessel while we’re stationary. Pieter is well-versed in interpreting the conditions after years spent on these waters. “Here’s my old office,” he says, gesturing to the tiny islands of Sugarloaf Rock and the East Pyramids where he once dove for abalone beyond the coast of Stephens Bay. It’s a heck of a view, as offices go. Not only of the everchanging seascape, but the sand dunes host towering hills of opalescent shells that glitter under the emerging sun – these distinct deposits are cultural living sites, historic remnants of the hunting and gathering practices of the south west First Nations peoples, which includes the Needwonnee, Ninene and Lowreenne nations.

For all the isolation of our surroundings, there’s never a lonely moment on the Odalisque III. There are two universals that always bring our convivial group together: sunsets and wine. The first night the clouds clear enough for a hint of orange to tint the darkening sky, everyone’s cameras suddenly appear out of nowhere. By now, our dinner plates of slow-braised wallaby shoulder in a pinot, pepperberry and blueberry gravy have been cleared to rave reviews. For the next forty minutes, chatter is tabled for laughter and posing on the bow deck as we try to capture the vivid Tasmanian sunset

After dozens of photos are snapped, we reconvene inside for drinks. Spoilt for choice with names like House of Arras to the boutique Attunga Ridge, the one that catches my eye is Lake Barrington Estate’s Dornfelder – a robust red that steps boldly away from the lighter drops that Tasmania is famous for. On board with me is the estate’s

grower, Travis Klerck, one of many who have left the mainland to try their hand at starting a vineyard; in his case, near Cradle Mountain. When I ask him why he chose Tasmania specifically, Travis says it’s a combination of the cool climate, community passion and “an appreciation for the local touch”, all of which encourages would-be vintners.

Perhaps that’s how the Orangebellied Parrots feel when they make their summer sojourn to the buttongrass plains of Southwest National Park in Tasmania. Thanks to the minimal footprint left by expeditions like the Odalisque III and the passion of local volunteers, this natural wonder is a frontier of possibility, a chance at renewal in a landscape untouched by modern civilisation.

We never get to the bottom of who saw the OBPs first, but we can all agree that it’s been a gift to see them at all.

On Board; onboardexpeditions.com.au

PREVIOUS PAGES: the orange-bellied parrot; Odalisque III; climbing Mount Beattie. CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Stephens Bay beach; a Southwest Suite; taking out a tender; a tree martin.

YARRA VALLEY

Happy valley

Victoria’s Yarra Valley is home to lush green elds spotted with plump dairy cows, rows of historic, gnarled vines and innovative cuisine that celebrates the region’s unbeatable produce. Jonathan Lee runs Hop It, a hop-on, hop-o bus service that takes you to the best parts of the region for cider, cheese, gin, wine and a fun time and he shows us his perfect day out in the valley.

Surprisingly, Hop It is the first hop-on, hop-off bus to service wine regions in the state. Owner and driver Jonathan Lee started the business with his wife Sara just before the pandemic, briefly pivoting to become a wine delivery business after tearing all the seats out of their buses. This not only helped the business stay afloat but it formed lasting relationships with the Yarra Valley vignerons that have remained strong to this day.

Despite also servicing the Bellarine Peninsula, the Yarra was Jonathan’s first passion. “We are from Europe and we love the wine regions surrounding Melbourne,” he says. “Every time we have family and friends come from Europe, we go there but someone always has to drive. Sara and I have done hop-on, hop-off buses all over the world – Dubai, Berlin, London – and we loved them and thought it was something we could do together.”

OPPOSITE: vines in the Yarra Valley. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Jonathan and Sara Lee; dining and touring the Yarra Valley.

9am Cream of the crop

“Up in the valley, Coombe Yarra Valley is our first stop. It was the home of famous opera singer Dame Nelly Melba and they do some beautiful freshly baked scones with pots of jam and cream and you can pair that with a lovely sparkling blanc de blanc. Breakfast of champions. Or a coffee if you prefer. You can also book in a garden walk or a tour of Dame Nelly Melba’s old homestead.”

10am Natural beauty

“Alowyn Gardens is a beautiful walk that you can do in about an hour. They have a café and a hedge maze and the place changes throughout the year with the seasons.”

11am Bubble trouble

“Chandon is a stunning venue if you like your sparkling wines with views out to the Yarra Ranges and the lake they have there. You can either sit down in their wine bar or outside under the umbrellas and enjoy a sparkling wine paddle or have a guided tasting that includes the history of Chandon.”

1pm Picnic in the vines

“Punt Road is owned by the Napoleone

family and they are one of the largest apple growers in Victoria. As you head down the driveway you have all these pink lady apple trees lining the sides of the road and they have an old cargo shipping container that they have converted into a cider bar, which opens up during the hotter months plus they have a lovely cellar door with an open fire for the winter months. They have award-winning cabernet sauvignon and are one of the only producers of gamay, which is like a distant relative of the pinot noir grape. You can also try some of their ciders. The very special rose cider is made using their shiraz grape skins. They also offer picnic hampers that you can create yourself with local produce out of a fridge.”

3pm Cheese dreams

“Tokar Estate is located a bit higher up, so you have views of the valley and as you approach the estate guests often say that it looks like it has been plucked out of Tuscany. You drive up and are greeted by their dog, the cellar door is in a barn and they have wine and chocolate tastings. They also serve Stone and Crow cheeses, which is local and made by Jack Holman, who used to be the head cheesemaker at Yarra Valley Dairy. He specialises in pairing his cheeses with local businesses, so he does a Four Pillars [gin distillery] ash cheese. Tokar specialises in

tempranillo and they keep them in amphoras, the only winery in the Yarra Valley to do this, which is how the ancient Romans used to store their wine, in big ceramic pots. It’s very unique.”

4pm Gin o’clock

“Four Pillars are geniuses at what they do. They celebrated their tenth anniversary last year and Cam McKenzie won best gin distiller in the world [for the third time, the first gin maker ever to achieve this]. What is great about Four Pillars is that they have a new cocktail lounge, which is attached to the original distillery. Now, you can do a guided gin tasting at the original distillery or go into the lounge, sit back, relax and have a look at the food menu, comprised of things like truffle fries, croquettes and salmon bagels. Then you have a tasting panel that includes special gins like their Christmas gin or their yuzu gin. I usually recommend this as a last stop because people often spend two hours there and there are so many other businesses within just a few minutes. You have Payten and Jones, an urban cellar door all about natural wines; Number 7 does tapas-style food and wine made by local young winemakers coming up the ranks; Jaden Ong winery; and then across the road you have Watt’s River brewery, a small familyrun brewery.”

Washington, monumental

Being the cradle of American democracy is just one feather in the cap of Washington, DC. e city has myriad museums, must-visit neighbourhoods and even the National Cherry Blossom Festival. ere are thousands of things to see and do but only one Washington, DC.

DC is the history

the culture

and the cuisine

of the United States. Lovers of history can revel in the exhibits and stories at the Smithsonian museums, nature lovers can see the sights of the spring cherry blossoms that rival Japan and food lovers can feast on some of the most innovative flavours in the US, from chefs celebrating cuisines from all over the world.

As a city that draws college students, growing families, young adults, government workers and everyone in between, Washington, DC brims with energy and creativity throughout its unique neighbourhoods from the vibrant waterfront scene at The Wharf to the buttoned-up boulevards of Downtown.

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

Washington,

capital,

capital

capital

LINCOLN MEMORIAL

WASHINGTON MONUMENT

PHILLIPS COLLECTION

IMAGES: CREDIT DESTINATION DC.

ere is only one Washington, DC but there are so many ways for travellers to experience one of the most diverse and diverting cities in the United States.

Monuments, memorials and museums

Starting at the western end of the National Mall, the Lincoln Memorial, with its huge marble columns and manicured greenery, is a powerful reminder of democracy towering over the reflecting pool. The Tidal Basin houses several memorials, a highlight being the Martin Luther King Jr Memorial that is located at 1964 Independence Avenue in honour of the Civil Rights Act of 1964.

Discover the Peace Trail in and around the country’s most famous war memorials and historic landmarks, including the poignant World War II Memorial with a beautiful fountain tribute; it’s a pilgrimage that draws tens of millions of visitors each year.

Constitution Gardens, an often-overlooked area of the National Mall, is tucked to the side of the monuments and memorials with amazing views across to the Washington Monument.

Art enthusiasts should visit the Phillips Collection, America’s first museum of modern art, and the National Museum of Women in the Arts, the world’s only major art museum solely dedicated to championing women artists. Other unique museums include Planet Word, the world’s first voice-activated museum, and the International Spy Museum.

e US capital of free

The entire Smithsonian complex is free for all visitors, making a trip to Washington, DC an incredible value. Long before its inhabitants came to life in Night at the Museum: Battle of the Smithsonian, this complex web of museums, research hubs and the National Zoo has attracted dreamers from all over the world. From the National Air & Space Museum to the National Museum of African American History and Culture, you can spend days lost in thought and lost in time.

You can visit the Library of Congress, the largest library in the world, that is impressive not only for its book collection but its decorative arches of Gilded Age architecture.

And there are over a hundred other free activities to discover on a trip to Washington, DC.

Love thy neighbourhood

Speaking of interesting ‘hoods, Washington, DC is a city made up of dynamic and distinct hubs packed with local stories.

Downtown boasts dining hot spots and some of the best hotels in the country, while CityCenterDC is packed with luxury retail and upscale restaurants. Venture to Adams Morgan for eclectic small businesses and artistic murals around every corner.

Head to the music-filled U Street that is the birthplace of famous jazz musician Duke Ellington. This area has long been the centre for Black culture in the US and you can visit the Duke himself at his towering sculpture, see some live music in the Howard Theatre or sample some soul food.

Chowing down

On the topic of food that feeds your soul, you have to get a table at Ben’s Chili Bowl, a family-run institution that started out in U Street in 1958. Ben’s is home to Washington, DC’s signature dish, the halfsmoke, a hot dog served with mustard, onions and Ben’s very own spicy homemade chili sauce.

Foodies will find plenty of other options along 14th Street, including a variety of international cuisines. Le Diplomate is a local institution serving up authentic French fare, while doi moi offers Vietnamese street food and Colada Shop doles out Cuban bites. Diners can taste around the world with the travel-inspired menu from Compass Rose and go for a night cap at contemporary cocktail bar, Jane Jane.

From the a ordable to the decadent, authentic street food to craft cocktails and a deep dive into history that could see you lost for days, a visit to Washington, DC is always a capital idea.

BEN’S CHILI BOWL

NATIONAL AIR & SPACE MUSEUM

the dragon House of

On a mission to walk alongside the endangered Komodo dragons, Georgia Pearce discovers that Komodo National Park has a wealth of hidden beauty as well as the famous beasts.

A ranger’s hand shoots into the air, forcing my abrupt stop along the beach of Komodo National Park, beneath the blistering Indonesian sun. I look under the old wooden pier and, lurking in the shadows, I see my first Komodo dragon.

This robust reptile is covered in earth-toned scales and can weigh between 65 to 90 kilograms. The head is large and flat with a rounded snout hiding serrated teeth; they prowl around on muscular legs ending in fearfully sharp claws and have a venom that prevents blood from clotting. A bite from this creature, sleeping just metres from where we stand, can be fatal.

The group collectively holds its breath, and I can’t help thinking how close we came to unknowingly interrupting the slumber of this ancient beast. Protected only by two park rangers holding cricket-bat-sized sticks, we travel in a pack, one ranger at the

front and one taking up the rear “to ensure no dragons sneak up on us from behind”. The rangers appear to enjoy the apprehension present in the group as we push further into the home of the dragon.

These giant lizards can only be found roaming free in this Indonesian archipelago where two- to three-metrelong reptiles sun themselves on the dry savannah amongst clusters of thorny vegetation. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage-listed site, the volcanic island has changed little since its discovery – dragons still outnumber people. The animals are left to their own devices, as they were thousands of years ago, making the thrill of witnessing them without a physical barrier so memorable. We push deeper into the hot shrubbery and in the trees high above us, I spot a baby dragon devouring a snake for its mid-morning snack.

AYANA Komodo Waecicu Beach

Book your stay now

AYANA Komodo Waecicu Beach is the first five-star hotel in the region. The 205 rooms take advantage of the location on a steep mountainside, crowned by an open-air rooftop lobby, lounge and bar. Views of the impossibly clear lagoon reveal the house reef, a serpentine pier and the bougainvillea-lined rooms that are structured with a downward-tiered effect. I-Jen Chew, Managing Principal Architect for WAGT, the firm behind the hotel’s design, says: “The angular articulation of the guestroom facade and sweeping curve of the building is an abstraction of the scaly form of the Komodo dragon’s skin”.

Here, there be dragons

My base for heading into the dragon’s den is Flores Island, the gateway to Komodo National Park. Flores Island is a one-hour flight from Bali and is separated from Komodo National Park and the dragons themselves by just a short stretch of the South Pacific Ocean. Flores, part of the Sunda Island chain, is 5,500 square miles of wilderness dotted with sleepy portside towns like the step-off point at Labuan Bajo.

Just outside the town is the first luxury resort on the island, AYANA Komodo Waecicu Beach, who organised trips for me where I swam in untouched coral reefs, walked among near-extinct dragons, hiked volcanic islands, and snorkelled from rosecoloured beaches.

The best way to see the bounty of the Sunda Islands is a full-day boat trip from the AYANA resort to three of the islands that create part of Komodo National Park. Padar Island, the first stop, is formed around an extinct volcano where we climb over 800 rocky steps for a panoramic view revealing three deep bays far below the mountain peak. Each of the bays has a different coloured sand: one pearlescent, the second a deep onyx, and the final one a flirty blushed pink.

A highlight of my island-hopping adventure was the lesser-known wonder Pantai Merah, or Pink Beach. AYANA’s in-house marine biologist, Lee Miles explains the vibrant

colour of the beach on the very tip of Komodo Island “is caused by the bright red colouring of tubipora musica coral washing onto the shoreline”.

Also known as “organ pipe” coral, Miles confirms this is a natural phenomenon unique to regions within the Coral Triangle, a portion of the world’s coral reefs that reaches Indonesia, Malaysia, Papua New Guinea, the Philippines, the Solomon Islands and Timor-Leste. Beyond the pink sand, I snorkel between astonishing species of coral rising nearly to the water’s surface, forming a channel for the marine life and myself to swim in.

FLY WITH

Garuda Indonesia recently expanded its flight schedule and opened new routes. The carrier recently ramped up flights between Denpasar and Labuan Bajo from one to three flights per week.

For guests who want to give back, Miles invites them to assist with coral planting, which is “an integral component to restoring the house reef, by saving broken or crushed pieces of coral that then create a new reef strong enough to survive and grow”. To replant the coral, Miles has me tie the broken pieces to natural-fibre ropes which are then strung up in the coral nursery.

Visiting Komodo National Park is like swimming with uncaged with sharks, it’s

dangerous, thrilling and completely worth the effort. For all the trepidation in crossing paths with the mighty creatures I had heard so much about, I feel extremely lucky to have knocked on the Komodo dragon’s door. I went to observe the Komodo dragon in its natural habitat, but in doing so I discovered the beauty of Flores Island, Padar Island and Pink Beach – three destinations that snuck up on me more than the dragons did.

LEFT: the famous dragons can be dangerous with a bite that stops blood from coagulating. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: touring the Sunda Island chain by boat; taking part in coral planting; the pink beach at Pantai Merah.

Feastival season

Noodles made with fresh abalone, pizzas piled high with tru es and tropical delights from the far north, Australian food festivals bring food and drink lovers together in celebration of the ner things in life.

Northern exposure

Not many food festivals can claim a history harking back 65,000 years, but Karrimanjbekkan An-me Kakadu: Taste of Kakadu (Northern Territory, May 2426) aims to shine a light on indigenous flavours from the NT. The program includes an open-air cooking class from foraging chef Paul Iskov from Fervor, food stalls at the Bowali Festival Hub and barkpainting and spear-making workshops.

Tassie pagan fun

Untamed and delicious

Making the most of the wild coastland of Gippsland, the Wild Harvest Seafood Festival (Victoria, April 26-28) in Mallacoota celebrates the lesser-known bounty of the sea like the abalone the region is famous for. The opening night Whelk-om dinner challenges celebrity chefs like Stefano di Pieri to put their spin on the local marine life, sea shanties are sung and the market sells fresh produce.

Embracing the dark side of winter in Tasmania, MidWinter Fest (July 12-13) takes place at Willie Smith’s Cider House in the Huon Valley. The festival plays up the pagan aspects with a traditional wassail, where you make a lot of noise to awaken the apples and scare away evil spirits. There is also feasting, folk music, barrel loads of cider and Big Willie Burns, where an effigy is set alight to get the party started Wicker Man-style.

Tru e pigs

The three-day Manjimup Truffle and Wine Festival (June 23-25) in Western Australia is one of the best ways to sample what many believe is one of the most luxurious produce offerings in the world. There are a variety of events that see the truffle region – Manjimup, Pemberton and Northcliffe – spring to life with truffle pizza nights, masterclass brunches demonstrating how to use truffles properly, and truffle hunts.

Taste of Tassie

Best of the Harbour city

Sydney’s Good Food & Wine Show (June 21-23) takes place under one roof with suppliers manning their stalls and offering a wealth of free samples and great deals for incredible local produce. Come for masterclasses in food and wine pairing, whisky tasting or cheese tastings. You can also find cooking demonstrations from celebrity chefs like Miguel Maestre in the Good Food Theatre.

5 Sunshine Coast shines

Heroing the fresh flavours of Queensland’s Sunshine Coast, The Curated Plate (July 26-August 4) is packed with nearly 100 foodie events. Expect unexpected lunch guests like local wildlife warrior Terri Irwin, events that educate you about the wealth of native ingredients and opportunities to meet the local farmers. Year round you can take part in the new Sunshine Pantry, a guide to the over 900 producers and makers, which also ramps up during the festival.

Taking place on Hobart’s Salamanca waterfront, Tasmania’s Taste of Summer (December-January) brings the top picks of the Apple Isle all to one place. Stroll the stalls and taste produce from Tasmanian Oyster Co, Bruny Island Cheese and Beer Co and Fork It Farm. Make sure your glass is never empty with a Gillespie’s ginger beer, Plenty Cider or a craft brew from Shambles Brewery.

Wine and vine

The New South Wales Hunter Valley region is well-known as the top spot for a tipple but The Hunter Valley Wine & Beer Festival (July 13) raises the bar. Taking place in the Rydges Resort Hunter Valley, you can expect a great selection of craft beer and interesting wines from the team behind the GABS (Great Australian Beer Spectapular) festivals.

Me, myself and isle

Rebecca Ellwood always dreamed of travelling to the Maldives, she just never thought she’d do it solo. But at Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa she discovered that, for a relaxing, enriching and bucket-list ticking island getaway, it doesn’t always take two.

It’s a bold move to travel to the most romantic resort in the honeymoon capital of the world, alone. At least, that’s what I was told as I set off for Hideaway Resort & Spa in the Maldives.

After packing a refreshingly low-key holiday wardrobe (I only have myself to impress, after all), I’m en route from Melbourne. The clues are evident even at Singapore Changi Airport: like animals heading for Noah’s Ark, couples line up two-by-two, ready to board the Malé flight. And then there’s me.

Named the Maldives’ Leading Honeymoon Resort 2023 in the World Travel Awards, Hideaway is one of the archipelago’s more remote resorts, reachable from Malé by a one-hour domestic flight and a 30-minute speedboat ride.

As we zip to the resort across the Indian Ocean, it seems even the sky is designed for lovers with its watercolourlike strokes of candy pink and lavender. I notice a couple onboard attempting

a selfie and offer to capture the shot for them; they gratefully accept.

Within 30 minutes, the resort’s jetty appears, all twinkling lights and welcoming faces in the darkness. It’s immediately clear the attentive touches here are what makes this resort stand out. The reception area smells heavenly (lemongrass fragrance, I later learn); the check-in process is swift and fuss-free. Within moments, I’m on a buggy en route to my accommodation, the balmy breeze in my hair.

The Deluxe Water Villa with Pool is a love shack. Inside is a two-person jetted spa bath with ocean views, a huge rain shower, twin sinks and a bed big enough to avert matrimonial tiffs. The private infinity pool on the outdoor deck has an inset bench for gazing over the lagoon together at sunset. Except I have the place all to myself. I feel like Kevin McAllister in Home Alone 2 when he checks in solo at The Plaza: giddy with excitement.

FROM RIGHT: the overwater accommodation at Hideaway Resort & Spa is made for lovers; the resort was named Leading Honeymoon Resort 2023 in the World Travel Awards; the pool overlooking the Indian Ocean.

Hideaway Resort & Spa

This is five-star bliss at its very finest – from vast villas with your slice of private beachfront to a personal butler and serving fresh seafood, cocktails and one of the largest whisky and fine champagne collections in the Maldives. Two beautiful infinity pools beckon, while the sparkling lagoon is never more than a few steps away. Toes-inthe-sand buffet dining is found at Matheefaru, along with fine dining at two a la carte restaurants, and casual beachside bars.

Book your stay at Hideaway

Chicken soup for the sole

Dhonakulhi is one of the larger islands in the Maldives at 1.5km from end to end and is predominantly jungle. “Hideaway” seems to be the most appropriate of names for the resort: private entrances to villas are barely visible behind feathery palm fronds and jewel-toned flowers, dewy from last night’s rain showers. As I cycle around, my only company is the iridescent dragonflies that hover alongside me and the geckos that scamper into the foliage.

Love is all around me. Heart-shaped wooden signs are staked in the ground with names and dates of weddings, honeymoons and anniversaries etched onto each one. They mark the spot where a sapling is planted. Returning guests (and there are plenty of them) can revisit their tree each year to see it blossom. There is even a bridalwear boutique.

After a couple of me-time evenings, I’m keen to get a taste of traditional Maldivian culture at Meeru Bar & Grill’s Boduberu drumming show. It’s pure joy: locals dancing barefoot to the beat in a centuriesold tradition. Before I know it, the hand of a friendly staff member extends ushering me into the fray and together we dance to the drums’ beat. I may be here solo, but I’m far from alone.

Hideaway has so many activities and experiences to get stuck into. A state-of-the-art X-Golf simulator is surprisingly entertaining even for a non-golfer, with an in-house pro on-hand to hone your technique. Sports courts, a brand-new fitness centre, a spa, yoga, meditation, and endless experiences from night snorkelling to dhoni boat cruises can fill every moment. The flames of romance are stoked with sandbank dinners, sunset cruises and chillout sessions on a HamacLand (a private floating pod on the lagoon dressed with flowers).

I treat myself to a Hideaway Spa treatment where I’m given a deliciously firm, 90-minute massage. I briefly notice the room is laid out for two, before drifting away on a cloud to nothing-will-ever-matter-again-ville.

My final culinary experience is at the Asian-fusion fine dining restaurant, Samsara. As I cross the jetty, the sound of the ocean gently lapping is a prelude to what is honestly the most romantic dinner of my life. The glittering, Moroccan-inspired interior opens onto an overwater deck, where candlelit tables glow beneath the stars. Delicate seafood tempura is dotted with edible flowers, I am treated to the most outrageously indulgent butter chicken curry of my life (and

this British curry aficionado has sampled a few), and it concludes spectacularly with a refreshing pistachio kulfi scented with cardamom. As lightning illuminates the far horizon, it seems even Mother Nature is putting on a show. It’s perfectly peaceful, with the only sound, aside from the surf breaking on the reef, the quiet clink of champagne glasses at the table beside me.

As I reflect on the last five nights, I realise I shouldn’t have denied myself this experience for a second. I feel serene, revived, ready to go forth to take any opportunity that comes my way – regardless of whether or not I have company to enjoy it with.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: love is all around at Hideaway Resort & Spa, like lounges for two; Meeru Bar & Grill is a taste of traditional Maldivian culture; tucking in for a hearty floating breakfast. IMAGES

HIDEAWAY BEACH RESORT & SPA, REBECCA ELLWOOD (FAR LEFT).

Land of contrasts

Vietnam was once big on the backpacker circuit, but it now proudly boasts highend resorts, ne-dining restaurants and world-class spas from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City. We highlight three luxury stays for a variety of di erent travellers.

Compelling and culturally rich, Vietnam is a land of stark contrasts. Mega cities buzz with frenetic, motorbike-powered energy while quiet towns see stilt houses and floating markets on the shores of the mighty Mekong River. Whether you’re here to learn about the nation’s long and tumultuous history, to dive headfirst into the spicy culinary scene, or to immerse yourself in nature, do it in style at some of Vietnam’s most beautiful resorts.

NATURAL OASIS

An Lam Retreats Saigon River

Ready to explore?

Enveloped by lush jungle with the sounds of the Saigon River babbling just beyond the trees, it’s hard to believe you’re only a 25-minute boat ride from the cacophony of Ho Chi Minh City’s busy streets. An Lam Retreats promises intimacy and seclusion with only 35 spacious villas and suites spread out across abundant jungle. Here, contemporary design meets nature-inspired elements: each villa and suite is decked out with natural timbers and large airy windows offering breathtaking views. If it’s a wellness journey in nature you seek, the Jungle Spa offers treatments that are grounded in local rituals, while the diverse wellness program includes yoga, reiki and sound healing.

Ready to book?

Stay at Six Senses

HISTORY

Anantara Quy Nhon Villas

This all-villa resort has beach and oceanfront stays dotted across a private stretch of coast overlooking the Bay of Quy Nhon. Fill your days with private dining, butler service, in-villa martial arts or Vietnamese cooking classes. You can also have spa treatments at a cliffside jungle spa, while house restaurants like Sea.Fire.Salt and Dining By Design offer freshly caught seafood and traditional Vietnamese fare. But the real draw of Anantara Quy Nhon Villas is its proximity to rich history like the Cham ruins, local fishing villages and uninhabited islands situated just off the coast.

INDULGENCE

Six Senses Ninh Van Bay

Arrive to pure barefoot luxury by boat, where the secluded location of this Six Senses escape makes it an intimate hideaway for honeymooners and loved-up couples. Ocean views await at every turn; it peeks through the trees and dazzles from afar. Follow the dips and turns of the resort’s pathways through abundant forest to your luxurious villa, where you can enjoy quiet moments with a glass of wine from your personal wine cellar. No matter which villa you choose, relish a dip in your private pool, overlooking dramatic scenes of the East Vietnam Sea. When it comes to memory-making dinners, the Wine Cave is an authentic cavern that is perfect for a private night out.

Lost and sound

New Zealand’s glacier-carved Fiordland, home to the famous Sounds, is the rst stop on Celebrity’s inaugural regional cruise. Annabel Fuller loses herself in the wild beauty beyond and the frenetic activities available onboard Celebrity Edge.

The energetic tune of the Cupid Shuffle wasn’t the soundtrack I expected to echo across the pool deck while sailing through the serene New Zealand Fiordlands. Yet there I was, in one of the most spectacular places on the planet, sliding to the left and gliding to the right. The atmosphere buzzed with anticipation and spirits were high onboard Celebrity Edge’s inaugural Australia-Pacific sailing.

While I am mesmerised by the towering cliffs, untouched rainforest and plummeting waterfalls around us, activities coordinator, Christoff, directs our aqua-aerobics accomplices to kick higher as the music continues to sound into the early afternoon. Meanwhile, fellow passengers take in the wild beauty from their outward-facing staterooms, with craft cocktails in-hand on the cantilevered Magic Carpet –a versatile viewing platform that floats 13 floors above the sea – and from the packed grand atrium, where I’m told ABBA’s greatest hits are drawing a crowd to watch the Sounds float by.

Nothing prepared me for the grandeur of the Fiordlands. Each day of adventure begins in my decadently soft king-sized bed, gazing out floor-to-ceiling windows in my Infinite Verandah Stateroom. Prying my eyes open, I peek at steep cliffs carved by waterfalls while wisps of fairy-flosslight mist dance across the snowcapped mountains of Dusky Sound. As if on cue, a singular Sooty Albatross soars past the ship.

As we cruise into our second destination of the day, Doubtful Sound, I step out onto the Magic Carpet: and hear a passenger exclaim “Penguins!” A colony of Fiordland crested penguins are playfully diving into the mirror-calm waters; nearby on rocky outcrops, sleek fur seals yawp as the soft sunlight glistens on their coats. There’s no question the best way to see the Sounds is onboard a ship, where you have a 360-degree view of the sea life, and I turn to see a pod of dolphins gracefully dancing along the port side, leaving shimmering trails in their wake.

LEFT: the Celebrity Edge makes its inaugural journey through New Zealand’s Fiordland.

I’m a joiner

While only a handful of passengers are in the pool with me at the afternoon aqua-aerobics class, no one sits out the full schedule of daily activities, cherry picking the on-ship diversions according to their interests.

Celebrity Cruises president Laura Hodges Bethge, who is sailing onboard with us, says the ship’s arrival in Australia “is a moment of celebration, not just for Celebrity Cruises, but for guests as well”.

“Celebrity Edge is widely regarded as one of the most innovative cruise ships on Earth, shattering perceptions of cruising with several firsts onboard,” she says. These firsts include the multi-functional Magic Carpet and out-of-the-box accommodations like ultraluxe two-storey villas with private pools.

Laura has coined the term “joiners” to describe guests who wish to indulge in everything that the Edge has to offer.

I’m a “joiner”. From guided meditations and Zumba in the rooftop garden to salsa

Set sail with Luxury Escapes

lessons, trivia and even indoor archery, there wasn’t a single activity I didn’t try. Add a three-course dinner, followed by evenings at the elegant Martini Bar (the blue curacao and pineapple-infused Tropo-tini is a refreshing “I’m on holiday” tipple), and I barely have the energy to put myself to bed, let alone indulge in treatment at The Spa or enjoy a soak in one of the outdoor Jacuzzis, set beneath the night sky full of stars.

Offered exclusively on days at sea, the immersive behind-the-scenes ship tour is a highlight. After a small-group tour of the ship’s main galley – plating over 19,000 meals a day – we are led onto the captain’s bridge.

and more

Luxury Escapes has a range of cruise product including sailing with Celebrity Cruises. Celebrity offers an 11-night cruise on the Celebrity Edge to New Zealand as well as cruise offerings in Asia, the US and the Mediterranean.

Captain Matt Karandreas has been at the helm of mega-ships for over 20 years and gave us a glimpse behind the curtain into the mastery of commanding this billiondollar ship.

A crew of 1320 chart our safe passage and keep us (too) well fed. All 29 world-class dining venues – ranging from innovative plant-based dishes at Eden to Mediterranean fare at Cyprus – have been expertly curated to engage our senses for an inspiring and immersive experience.

On the night I dine at Le Petit Chef Restaurant, appetisers include a tartlet of slow-roasted heirloom tomatoes and cured

salmon; mains include traditional braised rib of beef and a pan-seared Mediterranean branzino and dessert is a sumptuous strawberry Chantilly Napoleon. This epicurean spectacle ignites my childlike whimsy as 3D animations project a mischievous “petit chef” across the crisp linen tablecloth, blending delicious cuisine with innovative digital storytelling.

On our final morning, as we sail into the brilliant Sydney Harbour, the Sydney Opera House shimmers in the early morning sun. Soon a new batch of “joiners” will discover that the natural wonderland of Australia and New Zealand is best discovered on the Edge.

FROM TOP: when the sun goes down the entertainment on the Celebrity Edge ramps up; the ship has plenty of breakout spaces; the innovative Magic Carpet gives amazing views of the Sounds.

HONG KONG INSIDER:

From hidden pirate haven to skyscraper-stacked metropolis, Hong Kong is a city that’s de ned by boundless reinvention. Here, ancient teahouses rub shoulders with ultramodern co ee shops, open-air markets crowd beneath lofty designer malls and hiking forays lead into jungle-clad mountains.

Hong Kong dazzles with a legendary dining scene, dinner-to-dawn nightlife and spectacular vistas around every corner. A city unafraid to embrace its own sheer verticality, Hong Kong seduces with rooftop bars, islandspanning ropeways and once-in-alifetime vantage points atop iconic

summits. The city’s underground is just as vital: discover countless subterranean bars, crisscross tunnels and a Mass Transit Railway to rival any in the world.

Leave the city behind for tropical islands hiding saltpans, hippie communities and happy amusement

parks, shop your way across historic Hollywood Road or catch a ding-ding tram to glamorous Happy Valley. Whatever you’re into, wherever you end up, Hong Kong’s here with creativity to spare.

Here is our insider guide to the perfect Hong Kong escape.

Drinking and dining

Hong Kong Cuisine 1983, Happy Valley

Few places embody the spirit of Hong Kong’s East-meets-West gastronomy like Hong Kong Cuisine 1983. Executive chef Silas Li brings plenty of fire and French flair to the venerable Happy Valley institution, with a tasting menu ranging from remixed dim sum to fearless takes on Parisian classics, deftly balancing modern patisserie and old-world wok hei (the smoky goodness of a stir fry).

001, Central

After a brief shutdown, Hong Kong’s original hidden bar, 001, has triumphantly returned, this time concealed within the mazelike corridors of heritage-prison-turned-artshotspot Tai Kwun. The bar’s dimly lit speakeasy vibe belies a cocktail list that is a masterclass in reinvention – the bar’s Negroni Negroni (twin shots of different gins, bitters, vermouths) is an unapologetic delight.

Bar Leone, Central

Offbeat aperitivo hotspot, Bar Leone, skews more Melbourne than Hong Kong in spirit, with Roman bric-a-brac on every wall and Gregorian chants echoing through the backrooms. Italian-inspired cocktails like the smoked-olive martini is a “dirty” masterpiece, and an olive oil and honey-infused bourbon sour offers savoury-sweet revelation.

SILAS LI / @CHEF.SILASLI CHEF

“Hong Kong is renowned for its diverse culinary scene, which blends traditional Chinese cooking with Western influences. The unique culinary style allows me to experiment and create innovative dishes that combine the best of both worlds.”

BAR LEONE

HONG KONG CUISINE 1983

001

IMAGES: SHERAY WHITE.

Hexa, Tsim Sha Tsui

Classic Hong Kong dining with a modern twist: Hexa dazzles with inspired takes on traditional Cantonese plates and phenomenal views over Victoria Harbour. With culinary showstoppers like pearl rice braised in XO sauce – topped extravagantly with truffle shavings and umami-rich sea urchin – there’s no better place to watch the world drift by.

DarkSide, Tsim Sha Tsui

Simone Rossi’s upscale cocktail parlour in the Rosewood Hotel isn’t afraid to embrace mixology’s darker arts, showcasing rare and barrel-aged cognacs, decadent Cuban toro cigars and house-made bean-to-bar chocolate. Live jazz and a high-concept cocktail menu keep DarkSide fresh, with drinks like the Bright Side (tequila, mezcal, sesame, sherry and pepper grapefruit) playfully subverting expectations.

Mora, Sheung Wan

Look behind Upper Lascar Row’s jade hawkers and porcelain dealers to discover one of Hong Kong’s most inventive dining concepts. Elevating soy to its rightful throne, Mora’s six-course degustation menu –moving boldly from soymilk lobster bouillon to duck breast marinated in bean paste – earned it a Michelin Green Star for its contributions to sustainable cuisine.

Hong Kong by season

The lively city promises action for travellers year-round: there’s never a bad time to say hello to Hong Kong.

Winter – December to February

As the temperature drops, Hong Kong gears up for a massive Chinese New Year, announced by extraordinary discounts across almost every mall in the city: if you’re in town to shop, there’s no better season. In January, Central’s waterfront becomes home to the beloved AIA Carnival, packed with rides, roaming entertainment and delicious street food.

Spring – March to May

Spring can be unpredictable, with quick showers, warm evenings and the occasional clear, sunny day. This is Hong Kong’s festival season; each is steeped in folklore and well worth seeking out. At the beginning of April, joss paper is burnt and tombs are swept for Qinming Festival; later in the month is the birthday of Tin Hau, goddess of the sea, celebrated with street processions and elaborate lion dances. May brings maybe the best of all: Cheung Chau Bun Festival, dedicated to Pak Tei, the deity said to have driven the evil spirits out of Hong Kong, celebrated with an endless feast of sweet buns.

Summer – June to August

Hong Kong summers are hot, humid and thunderstorm prone. During this time close to 60 per cent of the city’s energy goes to air conditioning; the city becomes host to a dazzling array of world-class events, including annual mainstays Hong Kong Food Expo, Hong Kong Book Fair and the annual Chinese Opera Festival.

Autumn – September to November

As the skies clear and the temperature cools, Hong Kong’s natural beauty takes centre stage. For the best place to appreciate nature in all its glory, walk Tai Tong Organic EcoPark’s magnificent trails, just a 40-minute taxi ride from Tsim Sha Sui. For something closer to the city centre, a wander through Kowloon Walled City Park’s traditional gardens blends history and scenic beauty to profound effect.

MORA

HEXA

DARKSIDE

Sleeping and relaxing

EAST Hong Kong

Modern elegance meets laidback local vibes in the heart of Taikoo Shing at EAST Hong Kong. Boasting plenty of city buzz, there’s always something going on: ascend to rooftop bar Sugar for cocktails, Hong Konginspired tapas and views overlooking the glittering Victoria Harbour.

Grand Hyatt Hong Kong

Grand Hyatt Hong Kong pays homage to the city’s rich history by masterfully blending British flair and Asian influences. Take advantage of the hip Wan Chai locale: return to a tranquil heated swimming pool, serene Plateau Spa and sumptuous cuisine served across 12 venues.

DIANA CHAN / @DIANA.CHAN.AU

Conrad Hong Kong

Surrounded by some of Hong Kong’s best shopping and dining, Conrad Hong Kong offers an ideal place to watch the city lights twinkle on the horizon. Indulge in fresh seafood and handmade dumplings at Golden Leaf or cosy up on a poolside cabana and take in the sunset with cocktail in hand.

“Aside from eating, one of my absolute favourite things to do in Hong Kong is a boat ride on Victoria Harbour. I would highly recommend the sunset cruise on the Aqua Luna, a traditional Chinese wooden junk boat, where you can soak up the city lights with a cocktail in hand. I can’t think of a better way to end a day in this world-class city!”

e Sheung Wan by Ovolo

Flanked by incense-filled temples, quirky coffee houses and world-class bars, The Sheung Wan by Ovolo delivers on the Australian hotelier’s signature cool. If mezcal’s your love language and tequila makes you tingle, a visit to onsite taqueria Te Quiero Mucho is a must – the margaritas are among Hong Kong’s very best.

e Peninsula Hong Kong

It’s impossible to walk through Tsim Sha Tsui without gazing in wonder at the pearl-hued facade of the city’s last grand old hotel, The Peninsula Hong Kong. It’s a five-star stay beyond compare, with eight acclaimed restaurants – including the Michelin-starred Spring Moon – and the city’s most celebrated high tea.

Marco Polo Hongkong Hotel

Ideally positioned on Canton Road, Marco Polo Hongkong Hotel offers the ideal introduction to Hong Kong’s inimitable spirit. Easy access to the Star Ferry terminal, unbeatable views over the harbour and premier luxury mall Harbour City and the iconic Symphony of Lights viewing platform are all just moments away.

BEST KNOWN FOR:

Dim sum

It’s a joy to dim sum (or yum cha in Australia) in Hong Kong, taking tea with friends and excitedly opening bamboo baskets like birthday gifts, eager to share the pillowsoft treasures within. A culinary tradition spanning more than a thousand years –records show dim sum was beloved as far back as 9th-century Song dynasty –it’s surprisingly approachable, with tables across the city to suit every budget. A pre-shopping brunch outing in Mongkok at budget-friendly eateries like Dim Dim Sum and Tim Ho Wan is highly recommended. For a more upscale experience, a long lunch at celebrated Peking duck palace Duddell’s – matched with jasmine tea, champagne or mai tais –shouldn’t be be missed.

Action movies

Crouching tigers, hidden dragons, romantic tragedies and gunfights in the rain: from Bruce Lee to Wong Kar-Wai, Hong Kong’s film industry has captivated worldwide audiences for decades. Tsa Shim Tsui alone is packed with iconic backdrops. Walk the Avenue of Stars, modelled on Hollywood’s Walk of Fame, to see the city’s biggest stars immortalised via statues and handprints; cross the road to The Peninsula Hotel Hong Kong to relive moments from The Man with the Golden Gun. For a deep dive, Broadway Cinematheque in Yau Ma Tei houses the city’s biggest collection of industry-related books, posters and films; the store’s onsite cafe, Kubrick, brews coffee and tea with all the talent and care of the legendary director himself.

Shopping

With less taxes, more markets and a fixation on international luxury goods, Hong Kong’s reputation as one of the world’s best shopping cities is well-deserved. It’s a city obsessed with shopping malls – you could easily lose a whole week exploring ultratrendy, art-themed K11 Musea, century-old luxe hotspot 1881 Heritage and New Yorkthemed Times Square – but don’t sleep on the city’s street-level opportunities. Jordan’s Temple Street Night Market is the place to go for curried fish balls, fried pork buns, Ming-era antiques and watches of questionable authenticity; Mongkok’s Ladies Market for handbags, perfume, scarves and tea sets; Yau Ma Tei’s covered Jade Market for elaborately carved jade, pearls and jewellery.

Out and about

Admire city views from Victoria Peak

Whether you hike or take the historic Peak Tram, there’s no better view of Hong Kong’s iconic skyline than from 500m above it. As you ascend Hong Kong’s tallest hill, watch the buildings tilt at a curious angle in a mesmerising optical illusion.

Barter like a local at Hong Kong’s markets

Haggle your way through Hong Kong’s lively marketplaces, renowned for authentic street food, on-trend leather goods and unbeatable souvenirs. Find the perfect gift at the Ladies’ Market, spend an afternoon soaking up the incredible scents at the Flower Market, or watch Temple Street Market come alive after sunset.

See the city lights on a harbour cruise

No trip is complete without a ride on one of the city’s historic red-sail Chinese junk boats. This enduring symbol of Hong Kong –recognised since the Han dynasty – invites you to climb aboard and secure the best seats in town for the spectacular nightly Symphony of Lights show and witness the city illuminate in an eruption of striking neon.

THE SURPRISING THING:

Hong Kong has more coral diversity than the Caribbean Sea

It’s not all busy urban streets and shiny skyscrapers; step away from the city’s streetscapes and Hong Kong unveils countless aquatic surprises, with a higher coral diversity than the Caribbean Sea. Dive into the waters surrounding Hong Kong’s 250 islands, a realm teeming with marine wonders – from elusive pink dolphins and curious sea hares to a kaleidoscope of soft corals and tropical fishes. The city’s coral diversity takes centre stage with 84 species of hard

corals, eclipsing the mere 70 that call the Caribbean Sea home.

Hoi Ha Wan Marine Park stands as a testament to this diversity, hosting over 70 per cent of local coral species. This underwater haven supports a thriving community, harbouring more than 120 species of reef fishes and marine invertebrates. Sign up for a snorkel excursion or a sealife-spotting tour, or wade through the warm coastal waters that surround the city.

Above the surface, it’s easy to escape the buzz and lose yourself among lush mountains, ancient Buddhist temples and hardened volcanic sea arches. Across Hong Kong’s islands, only around 30 per cent of land is urbanised and around 40 per cent is protected as parks. Pay a visit to the Hong Kong UNESCO Global Geopark for meandering coastlines and numerous islands or spend a day at Ocean Park – Hong Kong’s largest marine conservation park.

IMAGES: NATE ROBINSION, (TOP) DANIELVFUNG VIA GETTY IMAGES, (TOP RIGHT) BRANDHK, (FAR RIGHT)

HONG KONG PALACE MUSEUM.

FAMILY AFFAIR:

Hong Kong is a city of curiosities

A dizzying concoction of old and new – beyond gleaming skyscrapers and sprawling shopping malls – make it one of the greatest urban playgrounds for travellers of all ages.

The young and young-at-heart are guaranteed a fun-filled day full of unbridled joy at Hong Kong’s own Disneyland. Explore seven vibrant lands home to the magical kingdom, from Adventureland and Story Land, to Fantasyland, Tomorrowland and even Main Street, U.S.A. Meet all your beloved Disney characters, experience thrilling themed rides and relive your favourite classic stories. Be immersed in the live outdoor musical show set in front of the magnificent castle or stay for the night-time light show spectacular –a perfect end to a magical day.

Suitable for a range of fitness levels, nature explorations are plentiful on Hong Kong’s archipelago. Day trip around the fishing village of Tai O, marvel at the otherworldly scenery of Hong Kong’s

UNESCO Global Geopark, or splash in the crystalline waters of Big Wave Bay. Take on mountainous ranges as you temple hop on Cheung Chau island or even take on the rewarding Shek O peak hike for peninsula panoramas.

Step into the heart of Hong Kong’s cultural celebration as vibrant lanterns light up the bustling streets for Lunar New Year. Revel in live music, joyous dragon and lion dancers, fireworks and an exciting night parade held at the Hong Kong Cultural Centre Piazza, where a spectacle of dazzling floats and dynamic performances transform the city into a lively street party.

A ride on the city’s Central Mid-Levels Escalators is the best way to see the city views like a local, stretching over 800m making it the longest covered escalator in the world. Ride to the very top admiring gleaming skyscrapers, stopping to try local delicacies and world-class shopping, or marvel at the bright Chinese lanterns.

Explore Hong Kong’s backyard

Dubbed the “back garden of Hong Kong”, you could easily spend a day exploring Sai Kung’s fishing villages, hiking trails, beaches and islands. When you’re ready to refuel, make your way to Seafood Street located on the waterfront and feast on freshly caught crabs, squid, shellfish, oysters, and more.

Ride the longest bi-cable ropeway in Asia

Add a healthy dose of adrenaline to your Hong Kong escape with a ride on Ngong Ping Cable Car. Climb aboard the glassenclosed gondola and ride the 5.7km journey for panoramic views of sky, land and sea. At the top, explore the Ngong Ping village, connected to Lantau’s massive, gleaming Big Buddha.

Explore the city’s hottest new cultural precinct

Hong Kong’s going through something of an artistic renaissance of late, and Kowloon West Cultural District embodies a mammoth effort to embrace it. A vast expanse of green located just minutes from Tsim Sha Tsui’s bustling streets, both the brand-new Hong Kong Palace Museum and extraordinary M+ visual culture museum call the park home.

HERE & FAR

72 /

Parting is such sweet sorrow as you get ready to leave Orpheus Island Resort

Is this Australia’s best allinclusive island resort?

78 / Driving supercars in the Tuscan countryside.

84 / e revival of Bangkok’s River of Kings.

90 / Something’s brewing in Seattle’s food scene

IMAGE: DANIEL BOUD

Australian idyll

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DANIEL BOUD

Orpheus Island Lodge feels less like a resort and more like a few days spent at your wealthy pal’s beautiful beach house. Go for the nature, go for the food or go for both. But just go to what might be the country’s best allinclusive resort, says Matt Shea.

Maybe we should stay, too.

The thought occurs to me while Chrissie Williams tells me her story on the Orpheus Island Lodge jetty. Chrissie is the general manager of this all-inclusive luxury island resort. But seven years ago, like us, she was just a visitor.

“I was coming to see the managers at the time. They were old friends from the industry,” she says. “I fell in love with the place, so they asked if I would come back, and I did. It was just the culture of the place, it being so intimate. And it was so diverse.”

Chrissie, I know exactly what you mean, I think to myself. Orpheus Island Lodge does a number on your brain like few other luxury resorts. I scan the scene behind Chrissie: towering palm trees sway gently in the summer breeze; a couple of honeymooners climb into a natty motorised dinghy, setting off for a picnic. Other guests are settling in for a long lunch of Thai share plates. We’re 80 kilometres north of Townsville on the Great Barrier Reef, but we might as well be in another country, another hemisphere.

Earlier, we arrived by helicopter, the pilot giving us an extra pass over the property so we could get our bearings. Orpheus accommodates just 28 guests in a series of suites and rooms that flank an airy central pavilion, bar, restaurant and pool. The resort is tucked into the western side of the island, its rooms overlooking a sedate stretch of the Coral Sea.

Chrissie was there to greet us off the chopper and stick a glass of sparkling wine in our hands, as the food and beverage team sat us down to brief us on our stay, checking any dietaries and special requests.

And then the beguilement began.

The first thing that strikes you about Orpheus Island is there’s no real check-in process. There are no credit cards to be swiped, no bills to be signed and no room keys. All the booze and the fancy meals are included. Gone are those little moments of friction that remind you you’re at a hotel. Orpheus feels less like a resort, and more like a laidback stay at your rich pal’s (very large) beach house.

OPPOSITE: Orpheus Island Lodge is laidback, all-inclusive and has a barefoot luxury vibe best soaked up from the pool overlooking the Coral Sea.

TOP: the outdoor bar next to the pool. ABOVE: guests arrive and leave via helicopter and there is no need to swipe a credit card or sign a bill.

My suite is on the northern side, looking over the resort’s immaculate green lawn to the palm trees and turquoise sea beyond. In the far distance I can see the enormous rump of Hinchinbrook Island.

It’s an airy, understated bit of luxury design with tiled floors, white textured walls, pale timber furnishings and a lovely courtyard.

The sitting room’s sliding door is also within 20 steps of the resort’s sizeable infinity pool, which I make use of immediately – margarita in hand, of course.

I idly watch plenty of guests do this over the next few days: migrate from their room to the pool, to lunch or dinner, to the hammocks strung up between the palm trees, and back again.

But Orpheus is very much a bespoke experience. Those 28 guests? They’re attended to by around the same number of staff. It means if you can think of it, the Orpheus team can, within reason, probably arrange it. It allows them to meet you at your level, and deliver a very laidback, egalitarian and ultimately Australian style of service.

“The guests get that one-on-one interaction,” Chrissie says. “They can sit and chat with our staff, whether it’s a marine biologist, or they can do those back-of-house tours with our maintenance manager.

“It’s very tailored. Like, we’ll see the prawn trawlers pull in, in the morning. They shelter just off Orpheus to clean their nets, which brings in a lot of fish. So, if we have someone who enjoys fishing we’ll take them out at 6am. But it’s very much a one-off because you never know when the trawlers are going to be there.”

ABOVE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: a walk along the jetty; drinks in the infinity pool; there is little to do on the island but migrate from your room, to the pool, to lunch and then on to a hammock. OPPOSITE: Orpheus Island Lodge is 80 kilometres north of Townsville on the Great Barrier Reef.

Island of discovery

We head out to explore the island.

First, we investigate Orpheus’s renowned giant clam garden, Chrissie prepping one of the resort’s dinghies and sending us on our way through the fringing reef. Planted in the 1980s, the garden is populated by 300 clams, stretching up to 90 centimetres in width and they can end up weighing up to 200 kilograms each.

We tie up and slip into the water to discover the molluscs in a few feet of water. I just about choke on my snorkel: they’re enormous, and seemingly everywhere. It’s a striking, almost alienlike scene. Mottled in texture on the outside, inside, they’re a kaleidoscope of blues, greens and whites.

It’s just one of a bunch of dive sites around Orpheus and its neighbouring islands that are home to 1,100 species of fish, 340 varieties of hard corals and one of the region’s largest collections of soft

corals. It’s some of the best fringing reef I’ve ever experienced in Australia. The resort takes guests out to these spots as part of its roster of daily activities (there’s also morning yoga, sunset cruises, guided hikes, cocktail classes, low-tide walks, wine tastings and, when in season, whale watching), but you can also book a private charter if you really want to lean into it.

The whole island is full of discoveries like these.

The next morning, we set off for a hike. The path takes us out the back of the resort, past the staff quarters and up a staircase that climbs through the rainforest. We clamber further again up the hill and past a massive array of solar panels that powers the property.

Suddenly, we’re on the windward side of the island. The lush rainforest evaporates into tussocked slopes scattered with rocky outcrops. Off in the

distance, clouds cast shadows across the grassy hills of Curacoa and Great Palm Island. Beyond, the sea stretches to the horizon. We feel in a place out of time. It’s easy to imagine James Cook, who gave these islands their English names, sailing through these channels and encountering the traditional owners, the Manbarra, the two not quite knowing what to make of each other.

The trail traces the coast, a chorus of cicadas soundtracking our route as we work our way down to Picnic Bay. This striking crescent of sand and stone is the focus of a resort-driven conservation project where guests can join staff on semi-regular clean-ups of the debris that the tide deposits on its beach.

Still, despite all the exploration and discovery, a big part of Orpheus is really about simply letting the island life come to you. This is where the resort’s allinclusive beverage and food kicks in.

Local seafood, international cuisine

A lot of regional resorts will talk a good game about being food focused but Orpheus Island is a cut above. The included beverages aren’t an afterthought, but come from vineyards such as Hentley Farm, Pewsey Vale and Deviation Road, and breweries such as Morrison Group’s own CBCo Brewing. The food is sourced from local fishers, farmers and suppliers, and the Orpheus kitchen has its own garden out back – rows upon rows of planter boxes used to grow mint, basil, spring onions, rosemary and tomatoes.

“Food is hugely important for us,” Chrissie says. “We’re always working on it and making sure we have the capacity to tailor menus to individual needs. We currently have a chef visiting from Terasu, a Japanese restaurant in Ardo, another hotel in the group – they’re here to exchange knowledge and techniques.”

The drinks are best enjoyed in the infinity pool, which more or less acts as the resort’s gravitational centre. Low-set, next to the beach and much larger than it probably needs to be, it almost seamlessly blends with the sea just a few metres beyond. It’s easy to just spend hours upon hours in here, and we duly do.

But breakfast, lunch and dinner are the other rituals around which island life revolves.

Mornings are something else at Orpheus, the rising sun hidden by the eastern rump of the island, leaving the resort awakening to a soft light and dewy stillness as the local fauna slowly comes to life. A la carte breakfast on the shaded patio, the beach a couple of steps away, is a chance to organise your day over generous plates of avocado toast with poached eggs, buttermilk pancakes with lemon mascarpone mousse, and chicken and lobster congee. Knock back a fresh juice and some locally roasted espresso coffee

and you’re ready to make some decisions.

Later, lunch is dictated by a particular cuisine, the chefs running through share plates of Thai, Italian, Spanish or Mexican, depending on the day.

Still, it’s Orpheus’s dinner service that’s the showstopper. Served in the resort’s expansive, timber-lined, open-air pavilion, it’s all soft lighting, table linen and a refined but relaxed style of service.

Executive chef Josh Childs has access to some phenomenal local produce – prawns,

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: food is a huge part of the Orpheus Island Lodge experience with seafood coming straight off the trawlers; breakfast, lunch and dinner are the rituals that island life revolves around; dining in the open-air pavilion. OPPOSITE: arriving at the resort in style in a helicopter.

painted rock lobster, line-caught fish –the menu changing day to day and week to week depending on what he gets his hands on. Perhaps the killer app, though, is his relationship with celebrated local fisherman, Chris Bolton. Just about all of Chris’s line-caught red emperor and coral trout ends up in the kitchens of Sydney and Melbourne’s best restaurants, so it’s a minor coup for Josh to secure a portion of the catch for his own menus.

Dinner is a set menu served over four courses. You might eat a coral trout and tomatillo aguachile served with mango; chilli mud crab chawanmushi toast with black garlic; hibachi-grilled beef short rib with cucumber dill pickle, crispy shallots and mustard; and dark chocolate served with vanilla milk and malt. Throughout, the front-of-house team will suggest wines from the included drops, but there’s also a deeper cellar list that you can explore if you want to drop a bit more cash.

And if you really want to push the boat out, you can book the resort’s six-course Dining With the Tides experience. It lands you on Orpheus’s jetty, with just the stars and some local sea life for company.

We wander down after dinner to join some other guests who are kneeling at the far end of the pier, watching as mangrove jacks, black-tip reef sharks and angel fish glide past, centimetres away.

We get talking to a young couple from New York – he works in security, she medicine. Like us, they’re leaving tomorrow and, like us, they don’t particularly want to.

“We only wish we’d chosen to stay longer,” they tell us.

The next day, Orpheus’ 12pm checkout is about as seamless as the check-in, but that doesn’t make it any easier to say goodbye when we hear our helicopter approaching, its rotor blades slicing through the thick tropical air.

Chrissie walks us down to the helipad and helps strap us in. It’s been magic, we tell her.

The chopper lifts into the air above the palm trees, pitches its nose, and we begin to swoop south back to Townsville.

Some of the staff appear in the garden and wave as the resort rushes beneath us. And then we clear a hill and Orpheus Island is gone from view.

Gone but not soon forgotten.

Orpheus Island Lodge

A jewel in the ocean, Orpheus Island Lodge is an exclusive private island paradise amid the breathtaking beauty of the world’s largest coral reef, the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Great Barrier Reef. Succumb to laidback luxury at this peaceful hideaway set on more than 1000 hectares of national park and boasting 11 kilometres of immaculate turquoise coastline.

to thrill License

Balancing a need for speed with cultural immersion in the world’s most scenic locations, Laura Itzkowitz zips around Tuscany in a series of supercars with Ultimate Driving Tours.

As we slowly roll up to Montepulciano, onlookers start to wave and cheer. Some local teenagers follow our convoy of eight supercars into the parking lot and start taking photos of the cars as they park side by side. Some of the other drivers rev the engines while the teenagers take videos on their phones. There are cars in just about every hue of the rainbow: a forest green Aston Martin Vantage V1 Roadster, a sunny yellow Mercedes AMG GTR, a steel grey Audi R8 V10 Spyder, a cobalt blue Porsche 911 GT3, a pearly white McLaren 720S, a bright red Ferrari 488/F8 GTB Spider, a red Lamborghini Huracan Performante Spyder and a red Corvette C8 Stingray Z51.

My husband, Marco, and I are in a white Aston Martin DB11 Volante named James (after James Bond, of course). It’s an exceedingly elegant sports car and the most comfortable of the various cars we test out. This is not the first time on our trip through the scenic hills of Tuscany that people stop to gawk at our convoy of supercars cruising through their little towns. After all, you might see a lone supercar driving through these hills, but it’s not every day that you see a convoy of eight lined up. All in all, we’re driving around in more than one million dollars’ worth of sports cars. For car fanatics like my husband, this trip is the stuff of dreams.

Our fellow travellers are a group of fun-loving couples from around the globe. Some are CEOs of high-powered companies, others are lawyers or engineers.

As we quickly learn, of the seven couples on this Taste of Tuscany trip organised by Ultimate Driving Tours, six are repeat guests. The tour is led by Anthony Moss and Julie Hunter, our magnanimous Australian hosts, who have brought us all together for a week of driving, visiting charming villages and historic castles, and of course wining and dining around Tuscany.

Marco and I join them halfway through the trip. At our first group dinner, everyone is seated at a long table on the patio at Borgo San Felice, a Relais & Château hotel in a collection of restored stone buildings in the Tuscan countryside. Though the rest of the couples have already become acquainted, they quickly welcome us into the group. Over plates of fresh pasta with butter and truffle, paired with a fruity Rosso di Montalcino, everyone is talking and joking around like old friends.

“You feel like you’re travelling with family, you have this wonderful comradery,” Toni from New York tells me the next day during our lunch stop at La Meridiana, a charming little wine resort in the countryside. She and her husband Mark signed up for this tour on the last day of the previous tour they went on and they’ve already booked their spots on the next tour in Monte Carlo. She tells me that she’s not a big traveller, but she instantly felt safe with Anthony and Julie. “They really understand who we are, where we are, what we want to see, and they put it together in a very intuitive way that really makes you feel like this was made for you.”

e driving force

Partners in life and business, Julie Hunter and Anthony Moss met in 2012 in Brisbane, where Julie was living at the time, while Anthony was there for an event. Having developed an interest in cars and motoring early on, he began organising rallies in Sydney and beyond. By the early aughts, he was running Australia’s biggest privately-run motor racing business. “When that came to a natural decline, I got more interested in going overseas and going to see Europe – Italy, Switzerland, Germany, places where you can drive these amazing roads – and started to put a couple of trips together a year and put it into the database I had from running those events in Australia,” he explains. Those early tours mostly attracted other car fanatics and were more about the adrenaline-pumping experience of driving

supercars than the places they were visiting.

About a year after meeting Anthony, Julie joined Ultimate Driving Tours as the first full-time employee and from that point on, everything changed. “Whereas before it was a bit of a boys’ trip, we now look to balance our experiences to be a beautiful mix of the driving, the food and the wine, and being immersed in the region,” Julie says. She and Anthony spend countless hours scouting hotels, restaurants, wineries, rest stops, and other places to visit along the routes. They have a collection of detailed Google Maps pinned with points of interest and notes about the road conditions. They spend a large portion of the year in Europe, evaluating and assessing the itineraries and form close relationships with their partners in order to ensure the best experience for their guests.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: a Ferrari leads the supercar conga along Tuscan roads; the cars are not the only super thing on this tour; wandering Tuscany. ABOVE: high performance cars in all the colours of the rainbow.

Explore this tour

On the road again

Every morning starts with a quick brie ng by Anthony as everyone gathers around the cars. He explains the itinerary, the driving conditions, and the rules of the road. He sets the tone, reiterating that it’s not a race but a ladies’ and gentlemen’s drive.

Every car has a two-way radio that’s used to communicate with all the other cars. Anthony leads the pack, instructing everyone where to turn, and warning everyone about bends in the road or vehicles coming the other way. The last vehicle is a sweep car driven by a member of their staff who ensures that no one gets lost.

I’ll admit that I was a little bit nervous at first. These cars are powerful machines capable of surpassing 300 kilometres per hour. Driving one behind the other in a convoy, you can hear when the driver ahead of you revs his engine and guns it. Accelerating on a long stretch of straight road, you feel the car’s power. Hugging the curves, climbing hills, whooshing through forests and past open fields, you feel the wind in your hair as you admire the beautiful scenery all around you. Whether you’re in the driver’s seat or the passenger, it’s a thrilling experience.

After an hour or so, you stop for coffee, lunch, or a gelato at a cute little spot you wouldn’t have found on your own. In Montepulciano, for example, after the gawking teenagers took photos of the cars, we all headed up into town for coffee and pastries at Palazzo

Avignonesi, a Renaissance palace designed by Vignola, part of which has been turned into a café with original ceiling frescoes inside.

During the rest stops, UDT’s team checks the cars to make sure no engine lights have come on, see if they need to refuel, and turn them around so guests never have to make a three-point turn. Rest stops are also a chance to swap cars or drivers, so every couple gets a chance to try every car in the fleet. During our stop in Montepulciano, we had just enough time to wander and peek into some of the shops before switching to the Corvette for the drive to our next destination: Tenuta Torciano winery.

After pulling up onto the gravel path, one after the other, we trade our car keys for a glass of sparkling wine. We are greeted by Emanuele Giachi, a 14th generation winemaker whose family has been in the winemaking business for 300 years. After a brief introduction, Emanuele leads us to the estate’s private forest for a truffle-hunting experience. He explains how his family planted the oak trees in neat rows and takes care of the land so it will produce black truffles year after year. We then follow the

truffle hunter and his two adorable dogs into the woods and watch as they dig up black truffles, which are then shaved onto fresh pasta during a private wine tasting lunch under a covered gazebo amid the vines.

The tour is nearing its end, but Anthony and Julie have one more surprise in store. We bid farewell to Tenuta Torciano and climb into vans driven by UDT staff. Fifteen minutes later, they drop us off at the city gate leading into the historic centre of San Gimignano, a town famous for its medieval towers. We follow Julie through the cobblestone streets, past shops selling leather goods, ceramics, and other artisan-made souvenirs, to Piazza del Duomo, the main square. She leads us around the corner into an old stone building, up a couple flights of stairs, and into an apartment with a terrace overlooking the city and the surrounding hills, where Emanuele’s cousin Sabrina is waiting for us with a lovely aperitivo and gelato from the award-winning gelateria in town.

“I keep coming back to these trips because every time you think, ‘How can they get it better?’ And they do,” Sean, a guest from Perth, tells me as we survey San

Borgo San Felice

Located in Tuscany’s bucolic countryside, Borgo San Felice is a Relais & Châteaux hotel occupying a collection of restored stone buildings. The platonic ideal of a country estate, it has a Michelin-starred restaurant, a casual osteria, a spa, an outdoor pool and a bar serving cocktails and local wines.

Gimignano. “And it’s not just the car – ‘cause we’ve all driven the cars – it’s the itinerary.”

Having travelled all over Tuscany, I was amazed by the way Anthony and Julie managed to find the most picturesque landscapes and smoothest roads uninterrupted by road works or speed traps. The drives were planned not just to get from place to place but to allow us to soak up the beautiful scenery of the bucolic Val d’Orcia, a UNESCO World Heritage site.

“If you really want to drive from dawn until dusk, we might not be the right experience for you,” Julie says. “We’re definitely more couple-oriented for people who are looking for some adrenaline and some adventure, but also want to get into the hotel and have a glass of Champagne – or Franciacorta if you’re in Italy – and have a spa treatment, have a beautiful dinner, and relax and spend time together as a couple and part of the group and enjoy the region as well.”

For couples who appreciate fast cars and the finer things in life, a tour with UDT might be the trip you’re always dreamed of. Just don’t be surprised if you have to compete with repeat guests for a coveted spot.

OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: parking the cars outside a Tuscan villa; rooftop dining with fellow tourers; a Tuscan market; a handful of truffles from the Italian countryside. ABOVE: hitting the road again for an experience of fast cars and the finer things in life.

Going with the flow

PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHRISTOPHER WISE

THIS PAGE FROM LEFT: the river views at Supanniga; the pool at Mandarin Oriental. OPPOSITE: the historic facade of the Mandarin Oriental Hotel on the Chao Phraya River.

e hustle and bustle of modern Bangkok can mask the city’s quieter, historic and more luxurious o erings, many of which are found along the banks of the Chao Phraya River. e “River of Kings” is the waterway that gave birth to the city but for years it was left neglected, now Ron Gluckman discovers a newly revitalised river, sporting opulent grand hotels, gilded temples, creative hubs and ne-dining restaurants.

Bangkok is one of the world’s favorite travel destinations, famed for phenomenal food, lavish hotels, unrivaled hospitality, grand temples, rooftop bars and all-around fun. Still, it was surprising last September when the inaugural World’s 50 Best Hotels list was unveiled, touting four Bangkok hotels, including three of the best 11 – topping tourist capitals around the globe. All of Bangkok’s best shared not a neighbourhood, but the same historic location – perched beside the Chao Phraya River.

The river that snakes through Bangkok, flows from the old capital of Ayutthaya, then feeds rice fields all the way to the Gulf of Siam. It was the avenue for trade with early Europeans, whose old maps marked it as Mae Nam – Mother Waters. The Grand

Palace and gilded temples line this River of Kings, long ago gateway to fabled Siam.

Early visitors, trunk-wielding predecessors of today’s jetsetters, came by boat, docking, dining and reclining at Mandarin Oriental Hotel (number 10 on the World’s 50 Best); famous visitors range from Michael Jackson and Marlon Brando to the current King of England, then Prince Charles. The iconic hotel that opened in 1887 has an entire wing honouring the famous writers who checked in, often for months. Spy novelist John le Carré completed The Honourable Schoolboy here, while W Somerset Maugham detailed his bout with malaria at the Oriental in The Gentleman in the Parlour

Visiting is a trip back in time to a bygone era of global travel: afternoon tea sipped in white wicker chairs under antique ceiling fans, with doting doormen in puffy silk outfits. After cocktails in the 70-year-old Bamboo Bar (Bangkok’s first jazz bar) exit this iconic hotel to find yourself among more heritage buildings from the founding of the Thai capital: the East Asiatic Building and Customs House by Bangkok’s old docks, and nearby, the grand post office on Charoen Krung (the city’s first paved road) reborn as the Thailand Creative and Design Center, part of the revival of the historical district.

And it’s not just riverside buildings that ooze history, but entire neighbourhoods along the Chao Phraya, packed with crumbling old warehouses, hidden temples, funky cafes and art galleries like several at Warehouse 30. “Bangkok is a city that is difficult to view in perspective,” notes David Thompson, the Australian chef famed for claiming the first Michelin star awarded to a Thai restaurant. That was in London, but he now helms several in Bangkok, his home for decades, all near the Chao Phraya.

“The only place you can really get a sense of proportion of Bangkok is from the river,” says David, when we chat at the rooftop

terrace of Aksorn, overlooking Charoen Krung, the Thai capital’s original trading street.

“This area was the centre of commercial activity in the 1940s and 1950s,” David says. “Charoen Krung had the first restaurants outside of hotels, the first clubs.” After decades of decline, it’s finally on the rebound. Besides a new generation of lively bars, cafes and art galleries, the district also claims music clubs like Siwilai Sound Club down below us, along with lots of Michelin-star dining, including Aksorn.

The revival of the riverside has attracted not only tourists but Thai creative spirits and entrepreneurs. Many new spots, like Potong, are reviving buildings with great stories and personal connections. This Michelinstarred restaurant is helmed by chef Pichaya Soontornyanakij – proclaimed Asia’s Best Female Chef by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants. She creates inventive multi-course menus served in an old pharmacy in Bangkok’s Chinatown. The 120-year-old building was her family’s business, selling medicines in giant beakers displayed downstairs, and opium in the upstairs den, now the stylish Opium Bar. Meals aren’t just culinary celebrations, but a scrumptious historical journey. “We want the customer to feel like they’re travelling back in time to a museum of my family’s heritage,” says Pichaya.

At Aksorn, David recreates dishes from the 1950s, when Charoen Krung was a swinging hub of music clubs, clothing shops and newsstands. Now, it offers a contrast to the hubbub and traffic of uptown areas of a city with over 10 million people. From the balcony, David savours a view that spans centuries. “The river is the heart of Bangkok,” he says. “It gives you a sense of the city itself.”

Time and tide

That wasn’t the case when I visited as a reporter from Hong Kong in the early 1990s. The Oriental beckoned with charming river hotels like the Shangri-La, but surroundings were mainly musty jewellery shops and shuttered shophouses. Much of the business of Bangkok long ago moved to flashier districts – Silom, Sathorn and Sukhumvit – boasting flashy new hotels, malls and madcap tourist traffic. It’s the same around the globe. Cities grow and move to greener pastures, leaving behind their historic founding sites.

And, just as other cities eventually return to their roots with revival projects, Bangkok’s River of Kings is in the process of a rethroning, only via an organic process. It’s not just plush hotels like the Siam, Four Seasons and Capella – the other world’s best hotels –rising on the river, but also a wave of artisans, chefs and entrepreneurs reclaiming derelict sites, turning them into chill bars like Baan Rim Naam, and trendy teahouses like Hong Sieng Kong, offering riverside dining and Thai desserts in a clutter of restored buildings among century-old trees embracing oncedilapidated structures.

The revival of Bangkok’s riverside benefited from a major boost from another Australian, David Robinson, who relocated to Bangkok over two decades ago. “I got really excited about the river area,” he says. Most locals viewed the riverside as a place of the past, but he saw vast potential if stakeholders pulled together. David spawned the concept for a Bangkok Creative District, uniting hotels, restaurants and other businesses.

It was a tough sell. Asia lags behind the West, where governments bankroll ambitious urban-renewal schemes. Undaunted, David was a one-man river booster squad. “This was a fantastic area, but it had no promotion.” With seed funding from riverside hotels that had fallen off tourist maps, he devised inventive campaigns to beautify, inject life and reintroduce the historic area that birthed Bangkok in the late 1700s.

He convinced owners of derelict buildings to host colourful murals, then enlisted local artists to paint them. Embassies brought out foreign artists for projects that often highlighted historic structures in the original foreign settlements from the early days of trade along the river.

Another major boost came in the joint development of the Four Seasons (number 3 on the World’s Best List) and Capella (number 11) hotels, both at Chao Phraya Estates, on a six-hectare site downriver on Charoen Krung. The former includes over 360 luxury residences in a tower that, upon completion in 2018, was Thailand’s tallest. These were the first five-star hotels along the river in decades. “Being by water is special everywhere – on the ocean, besides rivers or lakes,” says Four Seasons General Manager Lubosh Barta. “There is something magical about it. Bangkok strayed from its river origins long ago but now it has a second life – and it’s just beginning.”

Four Seasons doesn’t lean on its past glories but a new riverside renaissance. Everything is grand – colossal ceilings, enormous art. A massive gallery focusses on local artists in partnership with Bangkok’s Museum of Contemporary Art. And it gives the river buzzy new dining outlets like Yu Ting Yuan, which was Bangkok’s only Michelinstarred Cantonese restaurant, and Bangkok Social Club, the gorgeous Art-Deco cocktail bar proclaimed Bangkok’s best by Asia’s 50 Best Bars and number three bar for the whole of Asia.

Adjoining Capella is smaller but aims to be even more exclusive. All rooms face the river and have balconies that open to immerse guests in river life. You can watch boat traffic and barges from your bathtub as the river awakes. “Guests want to come to the river,

but have a high-quality experience,” says General Manager John Blanco. Capella offers local experiences, walking tours and lots of boat trips. But John confides that he often advises guests to take the hotel shuttle boat to Sathorn Pier, “get off, continue upriver, and just get lost.”

Exploring the riverside districts is a serendipitous exercise filled with constant surprise. Even after living along the river for a decade, I constantly find new venues cropping up. Boats are best for exploring the Chao Phraya and its canals. Scores of ferries cross the river, and a variety of boats make river runs; you can hop off anywhere, explore the inevitable market, munch street delicacies, visit a nearby temple and soak up the atmosphere of neighbourhoods barely touched by the modern age.

OPPOSITE, FROM TOP: the view from Capella; a room at the new Four Seasons in Bangkok. ABOVE LEFT: Australian David Robinson convinced building owners to liven up the area with murals. ABOVE RIGHT: street eats sit beside fine dining, like David Thompson’s Aksorn, on the Chao Phraya River banks.

e khlong lunch

A bit upriver from the Flower Market is one of my favorite areas – Tha Thien, near Wat Pho and the Grand Palace. Tha Thien claimed the largest market along the Chao Phraya a century ago. The shophouses look little changed, although there are now a clutter of boutique hotels, rooftop bars and amazing restaurants, like two of my go-to stops for guests: Supanniga Eating Room, basking in dazzling views across the river to Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) and the new, absolutely glam Nusara, overlooking majestic Wat Pho.

Nusara is run by the same group that operates Le Du, currently sitting at the top of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Nusara opened last year debuting at number three.

Supanniga, a few alleys away, but right on the river, is run by the same Thai group that created a rage in New York with Somtum Der – the first restaurant to nab a Michelin star for Isan food, the fiery cuisine of the northeastern Thai heartland. Supanniga Group has other Eating Rooms, as well as restaurants in China, Japan and Taiwan. But this river restaurant has a special buzz, even for CEO Tatchai Nakapan.

“As soon as I saw the site, I thought, ‘Wow,

I have to have it’.” Supanniga had already been successful in Sathorn and Thong Lo, more popular districts for nightlife and dining, but Tatchai says the river is unique. “When you come to Bangkok, you just have to do something on the river, whether it’s to take a cruise or visit Wat Arun.”

The restaurant has a comfortable seating area downstairs, but the main course is on a rooftop platform that looks straight over to Wat Arun, which many consider the most beautiful Thai temple. You can gorge on gaeng crab meat bai cha plu, big crab chunks in a spicy red curry, while listening to chimes from the temple.

Wat Arun is in Thonburi, which briefly predated Bangkok as Thai capital in the 1700s. It has even funkier backstreets and an entirely ancient world along the canals that long ago defined this “Venice of the East”. Transport then was by boat, and most houses sat on a khlong – or canal.

In recent years, as khlong tours took off, many areas gentrified, with cafes and shops connected by long wooden walkways. Homestays turned into hostels, and then along came Siri Sala. Kirati Thepsoparn

and his wife, Irma Go, with no experience in resorts, bought three old wooden canal houses with the dream of restoring them as the area’s first luxury khlong resort. Only to find the structures were beyond salvage. So, they created a new retreat, recycling original furniture and fittings wherever possible. The result is entirely new, but a traditional Thai home fit for royalty, with six bedrooms and space for 12 guests, complete with private chef.

“Our customers aren’t first time visitors to Bangkok,” says Irma. “They have been here and are looking for something different.” Rather than rent rooms, which might make better financial sense, they rent the entire place. “We feel it is important to offer the unique experience of staying in a house on the khlong,” Irma explains. “There are so many great hotels in Bangkok, so many of the world’s best. We wanted to offer something different, and special.”

And, so it goes along the historic khlongs, and the River of Kings, where entrepreneurs and adventurers long ago sailed, to trade, and dream big in old Siam. That spirit is back, where the past, it seems, is now the future.

ABOVE: the incredible food and one-of-a-kind river views at Supanniga. OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: the inside of Supanniga; the view across to Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) from the restaurant; scenes of Chao Phraya river life.

nirvana Culinary

Famous as the birthplace of Starbucks and grunge, Seattle is now home to a new breed of kitchen rock stars that are changing the food scene while still keeping a sense of community at its core. Matt Shea pays them a visit.

“Are these onions cut finely enough, chef?”

Traci Calderon glides up beside me and peers down at my chopping board.

“Do they look fine enough to you?” she says.

I spent the first 15 years of my working life –from high school, through university and beyond – in restaurants. And this, a classic rhetorical affirmation, is straight from chapter one of the chef’s communication handbook.

I turn to Traci. She looks up at me for a moment before her face breaks into a broad smile. It’s a total wind-up. We both start laughing.

And then we get back to cooking. Traci owns Atrium Kitchen and the clock’s ticking on our fish taco cooking class. I give the onions another going over and pass them to a classmate to prep the salsa.

Atrium Kitchen is right in the heart of the Seattle’s historic Pike Place Market. We’re working away at a long chef’s bench with Traci and a couple of assistants, using produce we picked from the market earlier that morning: halibut from Pike

Place Fish Market, vegetables from Sosio’s Fruit and Produce, and tortillas from Maiz Antojitos & Tortilleria.

Outside, tourists saunter through the light-filled atrium, heading for crepes at Crepe de France or Italian at 40-year-old IL Bistro. On our tour earlier, Traci showed us other highlights.

First, we covered the market. We grabbed espresso from Ghost Alley Espresso; flakey, pipinghot beef and onion piroshky from Piroshky Piroshky; and perfectly pillowy madeleines from Le Panier. We swept past the queues at the world’s oldest Starbucks, the coffee company perhaps Seattle’s most famous export (which is saying something), and peered in the window of the iconic Sushi Kashiba.

But then we also covered Seattle.

IMAGES: VISIT SEATTLE. 4NADIA, WIRESTOCK VIA GETTY IMAGES.

Pike Place Market sits right on the waterfront overlooking Puget Sound, the central business district’s towering glass skyscrapers perched on the hills behind.

From the Inn at the Market’s slick rooftop terrace, Traci pointed across the water to the wooded hills of West Seattle – where a bunch of the city’s famous musicians live and play – and off, in the far distance, the almighty Olympic Mountains, which buttress the sound against the Pacific Ocean.

A grey morning was beginning to burn off into beautiful autumn sunlight. Everywhere we looked it was the rich blues of sea and sky, and thick evergreen forests.

Seattle is a city where change seems not to just happen, but wash through the place in enormous cultural movements, whether it’s migration, music, technology or indeed food. And right now, it feels like it’s at another crossroads.

Traci touches upon plenty of it during our day at the markets. She shows us the absence of the old waterfront Alaskan Way Viaduct, which used to thunder past the market but was demolished in 2019 to better connect the city to the water. It’s being replaced with a pedestrian-focused street development that features a park promenade and two-way protected bike path.

But she also points out the market’s residential buildings, four of which are dedicated to affordable housing and Housing and Urban Development-subsidised dwellings. As we buzz around the markets, we run into some of the smiling residents, Traci greeting all of them by name – she’s in the process of relaunching a monthly community lunch for these locals (and anyone else who happens to be blowing through the market that day).

It’s one of the first things I learn on my visit to Seattle: yes, the change of pace is hectic, but this is a city that retains its no-nonsense identity and sense of community.

That applies to the food industry as much as anything else. Yes, you can go upmarket

very fast in this town – check out restaurants such as Canlis, Surrell or Copine – but there’s still a place for something like Oriental Mart, a straight-ahead food stall with orange formica benches that serves steaming hot plates of Filipino pancit, adobo and pork menudo to crowds of adoring locals. Or a classic 32-seat French spot such as Le Pichet, up behind the market in an old First Avenue shopfront, which cooks luscious, regional Gallic cuisine.

“That’s absolutely the case,” Traci says. “The food scene has not changed to where it’s unapproachable. I consistently see newcomers. You might have a couple of young chefs trying their hand at a new cuisine, or a couple of bakers trying new concepts.”

IMAGES: VISIT SEATTLE. STEPHEN REEVES, JACK-SOOKSAN VIA GETTY IMAGES.

Something’s brewing in Seattle

Seattle lends itself to a vibrant food scene. The sheer quality of the produce on the city’s doorstep more or less demands it – foraged huckleberries and mushrooms, and wild Alaskan salmon all get a shoutout from Traci, but there’s also Dungeness crab, Alaskan king crab, clams and Pacific geoduck.

And that scene stretches well beyond the glittering CBD.

That evening, we cross Lake Washington Ship Canal to discover Bickersons Brewhouse. This expansive brewpub in a converted warehouse reflects Seattle’s place as a major centre for craft brewing in the US (Yakima Valley, to the city’s southeast, is by far the nation’s largest hop-growing region). I sit with Simcoe, the brewery cat, under the Bickersons roller door, enjoying a typically brilliant Seattle autumn sunset, while sipping on a Seriously Delayed Arrival pilsner.

This is Ballard, one of Seattle’s hippest neighbourhoods. Celebrated for its Nordic and maritime history, these days it’s a hotspot for trendy restaurants, bars, markets and boutiques. They occupy the old red-brick warehouses that line leafy Ballard Avenue –beautifully appointed pizza joints and grills and oyster bars, with groups of well-heeled diners snaking in and out of each.

We’ve a reservation at Staple and Fancy Mercantile. Owned by celebrated Seattle chef and restaurateur Ethan Stowell, locals will tell

you this 45-seater shorthands the charms of his wider group, which includes Tavolata, Cortina and How to Cook a Wolf. It’s in the comfortable, welcoming setting – in S&F’s case, a century-old former marine-supply building’s exposed brick walls and vintage decorations – but more so the rustic pasta and primi that lands on the table.

We go large on grilled scallops, chicken liver mousse bruschetta and a bucatini amatriciana. It’s elevated stuff, delivered with that effortlessly warm and confident hospitality specific to the United States.

Ethan’s fine-dining background comes out in his reverence for his produce: “East of the Cascade Range it’s corn and red peppers, cattle and poultry,” he explains, “and on the west it’s seafood and foraged mushrooms and berries, so these two very different things that are very close.” But, he says, what helped light a match under Seattle’s food scene is similar to other cities in the United States, Australia and beyond – a shift towards elevated middle-market restaurants.

“Back in the day, in the early 2000s, pasta was considered kinda lowly in Seattle,” Ethan

says. “I was travelling to Italy maybe twice a year, and I just realised I really loved Italian food and culture.

“So, we opened Tavolata and it just murdered. We were so busy … I thought I’d get Tavolata opened and then leave someone else in charge and go back to fine dining, but I just really loved serving [Italian food]. People were so happy there. At the fine diner, the expectation to perform was high. I was free at Tavolata to have a good time.”

Ethan reckons the change in Seattle has mostly been a good thing. Yes, he says, it’s more expensive than it used to be, but like Traci Calderon, he believes there’s still space for a couple of chancers to roll the dice on their own spot.

“Each neighbourhood has its own ecosystem of restaurants, whether it’s a ramen shop, a sushi joint, a burger joint, an upscale restaurant,” he says. “That’s Seattle: it has a downtown, but each neighbourhood has a downtown – Madison Park, Ballard – they all have this core where people go to hang out. That’s the coffeeshop mentality.”

OPPOSITE, FROM TOP: fresh fish at Pike Place Fish Co. in the market overlooking Puget Sound; the market is the heart of Seattle’s burgeoning food scene. ABOVE: previously Seattle’s biggest food export was the Starbucks coffee chain.

at’s the other thing you notice about Seattle: the co ee. For jet-lagged Australians like us, it’s a godsend. Everywhere we go, it’s cup in-hand.

We drop by pretty-in-pink Fuji Bakery and neck lattes along with Japanese and French-inspired pastries. We head to Seattle Center’s lovely green-thumbed campus and visit radio station KEXP – responsible for breaking so many of the city’s most important bands – for an Americano at Caffe Vita and a studio gig by Sweden’s ultra-hip Little Dragon.

The coffee even flows on the road as we head out of Seattle in search of more of that produce Ethan and Traci have told us about. Tiny little independent drive-through shacks dot the route as we wend our way through thick woodlands to Port Townsend, with its main street lined with regal old Victorian buildings, and onto Dungeness and the seaside town of Port Angeles.

In Port Angeles we eat at Bella Italia, a homely small-town Italian restaurant that was the backdrop for Edward and Bella’s first date in the Twilight films, before, the next day, walking to the city pier to hit up the iconic Dungeness Crab and Seafood Festival.

This place is packed with smiling locals, their plates piled high with crab. Bands are playing and the beer is flowing and, despite the clock ticking past 6pm, it’s still brilliantly sunny. Out back, a small army of people work enormous crab pots through a cloud of steam, keeping folks fed.

I’ve heard stories about these crabs with their sweet, buttery flavour and meaty texture. Stacked on a plate with some locally grown corn and coleslaw, they don’t disappoint. We head back into the marquee for seconds.

Our final stop is Hoodsport, on the Hood Canal – a fjord-like arm of western Puget Sound – and it’s one of the most pictureperfect places I’ve ever laid my eyes upon. The narrow East State Route 106 glides along the shoreline, the mirror-like waters of the canal on the right and the fir-stacked hills to our left. We pass through beachside hamlets and bucolic camping spots.

We’re booked for dinner at The Fjord Oyster Bank and, yes, it’s an actual old bank that’s been transformed into a buzzy little

restaurant, with a souvenir shop in the old vault. It’s a Sunday and the place is full of the bonhomie of locals in knockoff mode.

Tonight, Chef Xinh Dwelley is cooking for us. Dwelley is a legend in the region, partly because of her fragrant cuisine inspired by her native Vietnam – we eat shrimp yellow curry, and clams sautéed in lemongrass and hoisin – and partly because she’s a gun oyster shucker, once winning the local championships five years in a row.

“These days they know how to game the system – they’ll take the time penalties but still win,” Dwelley says, laughing. “I could shuck 24 oysters in just over two minutes, and they were all ready to eat. You gonna try one?”

Dwelley has stealthily shucked another six oysters right under our noses. I knock one back and it’s a little peppery and a little briny and quite possibly the best oyster I’ve tasted all year.

It’s a shame we leave tomorrow. Best come back to Seattle for seconds.

hat from HatWRKS

Conrad Sewell

SINGER-SONGWRITER

“I was lucky enough when writing the Precious album to travel to Nashville and be working with people like Taylor Hanson, Jamie Hartman and Jeff Cohen and a lot of classic Nashville songwriters.

I loved it there and I really leaned into the country world and I was loving every stereotype that America has, so I had to get a great hat from Nashville. I went to a place called HatWRKS that is this really

famous hat shop where everybody from Bob Dylan to Slash – pretty much anyone who has worn a hat iconically in the music industry – has got a hat from this shop. They say that the hat finds you and I picked out this cream one and I wore it every day I was in Nashville.”

Conrad Sewell’s new single called “All Life Long” is out now.

NASHVILLE, TENNESSEE

Cream

Ultimate Italy

La Dolce Vita.

History and Art.

Style and Beauty.

12 DAYS | EXCLUSIVE SMALL GROUP JOURNEY

Visit the Accademia and Michelangelo’s David with an Art Historian. Explore Doge’s Palace after hours. Sail the sun-drenched Isle of Capri and enjoy lunch at the Michelin-starred Mammà. On select departure dates, meet wine dynasty patriach Marchese Francesco Mazzei for a private lunch and wine tasting during a unique Founder’s Collection experience. Embrace an idyllic stay at the elegant Quisisana Hotel.

Concierge Services

Magnificent Stays

Exceptional Dining

Curated Experiences