DREAMSURF MAGAZINE issue 20

DREAMSURFMAGAZINE PHOTO

20 ISSUE

A DIFFERENT APPROACH FOR A SURF AND PHOTO MAGAZINE - FTM -

DREAMSURFMAGAZINE PHOTO

A DIFFERENT APPROACH FOR A SURF AND PHOTO MAGAZINE - FTM -

project and realization:

CRISTIAN CORRADIN CO-EDITOR AND SENIOR PHOTOGRAPHER:

AXEL PIPERNO PHOTOGRAPHY BY:

AXEL PIPERNO ANDREA BIANCHI IVAN TROVALUSCI FABRIZIO FLORE collaborators:

RYAN LOVELACE MAX PURCHIARONI DAVID PECCHI MIKE PIREDDU BILLY WILMOT GRETA CHICHERI

dreamsurf magazine

is readersupported, made possible by

the sponsorship of:

. patagonia store roma . dr.ank surfboards . eclipse surfboards . deja vu’ slide essentials . surf to live . turtles surf shop . logical surf school . las dunas surf school . salinas long house . melrose place fuerteventura . rrd store lajares sede legale via giuseppe verdi 7 - 35030 selvazzano dentro pd italy dreamsurfmagazine è una rivista registrata presso il tribunale di padova n. 2075 del 27.03.2007.

è vietata qualsiasi riproduzione anche parziale e con qualsiasi mezzo di testi, fotofrafie e disegni.

FIRST LIGHT AXEL PIPERNO PHOTO GALLERY

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DREAMSURFMAGAZINE PHOTO

a Journey at the time of surfing in Italy

by ANDREA BIANCHI

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pizza al forno, tagliatelle, sopressa and so much wine...

by AXEL PIPERNO, RYAN LOVELACE AND MAX PURCHIARONI

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COVER STORY

The cover shot was taken during one of the many trips in the Basque Country that Axel Piperno has made during this winter. Axel has been exploring film photography lately and there isn’t a shooting daytrip without him taking a couple film shots.

Portraited here is Mundaka during a cold dawn patrol. In the next pages you will find “First Lights” color photo gallery.

eclipse

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David Pecchi rulez Sardinia 2006

photo corradin

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The long road that will drive north has a lot to offer, and is there for you to discover the magical side of the Basque Country.

FIRST LIGHT Gallery by Axel Piperno

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Discovering is what fuels my motivation to find hidden or lineups where you less expect them.

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This first glimpse of Zarautz was taken from a private property where I accidentaly drove in with my car. I still find hard to believe that this beauty was left unattended.

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Closer point of view.

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When the swell is on and the conditions are perfect, a stop in Guethary is always planned on the route.

The light is usually magic and never disapoints me.

The pace is set for a perfect dawn patrol.

At this time of the morning usually normal people sleep or let the dog out for his morning duty‌

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Decision decision‌ North or South, Capbreton delivers perfect a-frame together with an historical peek thru the blockhaus.

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a Journey at the time of surfing in Italy

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Recognizing Italy as a European surfing destination seemed difficult some years ago. After the last years, instead, the choice of the Mediterranean Sea as a possible destination for the European surf chart became a reality.

This success is undoubtedly due to the travellers curiosity that aroused such jewel located between Spain and the Italian peninsula. Sardinia.

Sardinia, from time immemorial known as the pearl of the Mediterranean Sea, is an island of wonders. Among its countless marvels, it also has very beautiful waves, that reach an excellent quality and that break the coasts with a frequency estimated in 200 surfing

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Words by Andrea Bianchi

days per year.

This is due to the island’s fortunate position in respect to the Atlantic Ocean, that influences the sea storms with its weather fronts as well as to the northwest wind, that rushes for several days throughout the year.

Wave surf showed up in Italy the early 70s, almost like it was an experiment: later than the majority of surfing ocean ward communities, that were evolved since time and that – already in those years – were building their stories and had their myths.

Things developed much more calmly here, let’s say in the Italian style, among a bath, a beer, a nap and a “spaghettata”.

looking for paradise, south sardinia - photo corradin -

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Pooling our peninsula with the other surfing cultures existing around the world was possible thanks to the spirit of adventure. Surf’s foundations in Italy were laid by similar persons, with the same love for the sea, all loving the discovery and all enchanted by that romantic waiting of the waves that can be understood only by those who live the waits of the Mediterranean Sea. They searched the information coming from the “oceanic surfing cultures”, in order to improve themselves, to make technical progresses, to dream about waves and exotic places.

The information age still was far away and it wasn’t easy to get access from, neither technical materials, nor video recordings.

With the spread of the internet, distances shortened, the things took an unexpected turn and everything started to change very quickly.

The first reviews and editing dedicated to our surf appeared and high level and renowned surfers started to visit Sardinia.

I like to recall the persons who, with their visit in that period, let an important mark.

One of the firsts was Donavon Frankenreiter, who almost by chance ended up in the island at the end of the 90s. Always in the same years the island was also visited by Dave Kalama a living legend for the world of surf, that after being here also stopped over at the shallows of Varazze, in Liguria.

In the first years of 2000, the local surfing community hosted for few days Rob Machado.

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capo mannu, the main spot on the island - photo andrea bianchi -

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leo ranzoni, sa mesa longa. photo corradin

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The first significant surf movie that told about Italian surf waves was one of the chapter of the saga directed by Greg Browining, “Drive Thru”.

“Drive Thru” is a series of surf movies having as its characters professional surfers of high level, such as Donavon Frankenreiter, Pat’O Connel, Benji Whaterley and Shane Dorian. In every chapter they organize a low cost surf trip, only with a camping van, their surfboards and a little bit more. Every trip lasts 14 days and takes place always in different nations. There are no

planned stop-overs and everything happens with big fortuity, like in a relaxed surf trip between friends, forsaking the classic standard surf movie programmed minute by minute meeting the market’s desires. Such series of surf movies was born almost by chance after a trip made by Donavon, Greg Browning, Timmy Curren and Barney in 2001 on board of a camper around California.

In 2004 the campers of Drive Thru arrived in Europe with a stop-over in Italy, passing through Rome, Forte dei Marmi, Varazze and Sanremo.

above, bebo pulisci on the mini capo left and below adriano scalas, the only island kneeboarder, on the mini capo right. the spot with the highest frequency of surf days in italy. photos andrea bianchi

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Kelly Slater was also among the surfers who, in that occasion, visited and surfed in our country.

In the following years the big brands of surf anyhow became progressively interested in the peninsula, perhaps attracted by the exponential growth of the practitioners. The athletes’ level grew up year by year, along with the sponsorships.

By the same pace with the crowding in the spot, the global surfing level of the aficionados improved, helped by the fact that by then it was possible to travel with much more easiness, thanks to all comforts that did not exist many years before.

Chances to visit the peninsula and Sardinia, for professionals of all levels, become more and more numerous.

Whilst in the past seeing water enthusiastic rising among the waves of your home spot was a surprise, now it does not surprise anymore, especially during mid-seasons. Attention is drawn to the names that in the past could be seen only in the Olympus of surf and that now are at your home, right upon the same waves.

During a marketing campaign in the summer of 2009 also the King of Hawaii Andy Iron showed up and visited some seaside resorts of the peninsula, surfing improvable waves, but astonishing for the hospitality and the warmth of people.

Months later, in Autumn, arrived also the Californian Christian Wach, hitting one of the most beautiful sea storms ever seen in this vicinity. He surfed in the most beautiful and challenging spots of Sardinia, confessing his astonishment for having surfed waves of such level in

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the Mediterranean Sea. It was also very significant the first visit in Sardinia of Dave Rastovich, along with Benjamin Sanchis, in 2010, during a marketing and environmental awareness campaign. Rastovich, captivated by the sensations felt on our island, by its nature, and intrigued by the surfing potential, promised to get back as soon as possible.

During the Summer of 2011, it was the turn of one of the purest and of wisest culture character that you could meet in the world surf scene: Derek Hynd.

Mr Hynd spent some days in the west coast of the island and unforgettable was his first appearance in Capo Mannu.

derek hynd looking for more drive from his finless board, sheltered from the hot summer sun. photo andrea bianchi

christian wach, try the waves of the mini capo after his arrival in sardinia

- photo andrea bianchi -

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jason baffa, concentrated in his work, during the “ciak” in the mini capo - photo fabrizio flore -

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turning point for our surf took place, one of those passages that will make things change forever.

An uncertain and indefinite news on a movie that Jason Baffa wanted to film on our waves travelled around the coastline. Rumors materialized with the first articles on various websites that unveiled the name of the movie: “Beautiful Life” (“Bella Vita”).

The plot is captivating since the beginning: Chris Del Moro, a Californian icon of surf and half-breed Italian, wants to tell the story of a trip in Italy between the waves of the “Bel Paese” during Autumn, the season in which the swells become beautiful, the wine is good and the weather is pleasant.

In his trip he involves some friends like Dave Rastovich, Oliver Parker and Conner Coffin and some Italian leading surfers, including the several time Italian Longboarding champion, Everyone was pretty skeptical to see Alessandro Ponzanelli. this middle aged man doing his entry The first member of the troupe to reach into the water in the main spot of the the island is Alessandro, who starts well Island, using a surfboard picked up god only knows where, without fins and with in advance surfing our waves with his strange channels. All doubts were imme- friends. diately erased as of the first waves. His After some weeks arrives Rastovich and “free friction surfing” quickly enchanted Chris Del Moro, with film maker Jason Baffa and the other operators, just the public. It was something never seen returning from a few weeks of bumping before, a situation that amazes and left wide-mouthed, one of those moments in the clapboard around the peninsula, after filming some very beautiful surrounding which you realize to find yourself right in front of the borders of possibility. His parts between the Tuscan countryside and the joyful warmth of Chris’ friends passion for waves is immense. Talking and relatives. to him, in his gaze still today you can They didn’t have, however, the same read the passion that guides him to luck with waves. They managed to continue exploring and surfing with the do some films between little waves in same burning flame of a beginner at his Tuscany but the first weeks in Italy were first years of surfing.

It was at the end of Summer 2012 that a marked by flat conditions.

a beach break at the top of the west coast during autumn.

- photo andrea bianchi -

chris del moro and dave rastovich show, during their first day on the water in sardinia. - photo andrea bianchi -

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chris del moro lights a right into the west coast. photo andrea bianchi

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The Mediterranean Sea immediately made them understand that who wants something from her must first deserve it and that abandoning the certainty of the ocean for the uncertainty of the Mediterranean Sea means an increase in terms of patience and passion in everyone’s life as a surfer.

For more than a week the waves did not arrive. Then, a day in the middle of October, the northwest wind decided that the time had come to start filming this surf movie and turned itself beautiful and big for the occasion.

With the arrival of the sea storms the group was joined by the rest of the surfers, including the Coffin brothers and the very young Italian talent Leonardo Fioravanti.

They put on an authentic show all along their stay, but I don’t wanna unveil anything else. I prefer you to do your best and try to buy the movie and to admire the beauties of our island and the scenarios of a one of a kind peninsula.

All the group of the Bella Vita movie lived with us for one month, surfed with us, perfectly integrating in our community, leaving special memories.

Me in particular, had the chance to unfreeze that cold thought that made me see “cover-surfers” as money machines; cover-celebrities with a life built by their brands and their managers for the market, to sell a fake living condition.

With Rasta and Del Moro I had the chance to discover how such living condition can have some balance, being something healthy and representing an example to follow for all those who would like to take the route of professionalism.

As at the debut of Italian surf, still today, lovers and all people who have passion for the sea and the environment, for the trip and the discover, all who experience real joy and fun in surfing and being in contact with nature, are the very heart of this lifestyle, that should be kept separated as much as possible from

leonardo fioravanti, the best young surfer in italy insight a mediterranean barrel. photo andrea bianchi

cooperation of a surfing community, of the scenes donated by a wonderful hearth and of the passion for the sea and the waves that bring together all those who, from a continent to another, find themselves to share it in various manners.

Sometimes, as in our case, for the success of a beautiful movie.

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those commercial and consumerist imposed models that everyone of us - at least in the first years - unfortunately followed and that have an elevated influence in the global surfing communities.

Bella Vita is a surf movie different from the others. It is made of true people that devoted their lives, even their working lives, to surf. It is the product of the

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Pizza al forno, tagliatelle, sopressa and so much wine...

Viterbo 2013 Almost a year has passed by since I received a “strange phone call” from my friend Oliver who told me about a project that he had in mind and that he would like to get me involved in.

I asked what this project was about, but I didn’t quite understand as I was busy with shaping and glassig some boards that day, so I didn’t investigate further.

Later during last summer , my good friend Axel called me announcing that he would drop by the factory to pay me a visit and that he would bring Oliver along to say hallo.

Of course I was very glad to hear that, it’s always good to receive friend’s visit and I was very happy about them coming to my factory.

As the two boys arrived, I immediately understood that it wasn’t only a courtesy visit. Few seconds after they passed the front door of the factory, Oliver whispered in my ear something that sounded almost unreal to me, they wanted to invite Ryan Lovelace for a shaping session in Italy during his European tour and my participation was key to make it a success. As my ears had still the sound of the planer in the background, I had to ask again his name. Axel kindly spelt Ryan’s name again, making sure that this time I would exactly understood the importance of that name.

He reminded me that last year I did a glassing job for a board that Ryan shaped during his short visit in Rome.

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All of a sudden I realized the momentum of such project and told Oliver and Axel that maybe I wouldn’t be ready to have Ryan here in Viterbo, after all we are not in California here.

Oliver burned down all my preconceptions and indecisions by telling me that this would be the perfect place to start an Italian experience. From every point of view Viterbo being located in the deep heart of the Tuscia Region is a symbol of Italian History and cultural heritage that Ryan will for sure appreciate and treasure. The atmosphere that hovers within the ancient wall of the city and the warming hospitaly of it’s inhabitant will lead this project to an unforgetable time together.

As my mind starts running thru all the steps to be taken in order to achieve this process, I can’t help but thinking about where will he sleep, all the materials we would require and all this organizational hectic is making me already anxious.

Axel saw the apprension in my eyes and with calm and patience told me no to worry about it, everything would eventually be sorted out!

However, I felt the need to evaluate the whole project carefully and that is why I took some more days to go thru this adventure with calm and cold mind, in order to give a 100% confirmation.

intro max purchiaroni itw ryan lovelace b_w films photo axel piperno

Few months later I got a message from Oliver telling me that, yes, it is confirmed and Ryan would stop in Italy for his European Tour. I almost fell down from my chair as I thought it was a joke from Oliver.

I had already tested the interest for Ryan crafts and the atmosphere within my closest friendships. Needless to say that everybody didn’t think twice about my proposal. The response was overwhelming and I was in total awe.

The organizational part came as a consequence.

Few days later I decided that it was time to introduce myself to Ryan, to present my work and to try to describe our project. Portraying all the details of his potential permanence in Italy was very important of course, but much more relevant to me was to show and express both mine and my friends enthusiasm to his Art and his stunning masterpieces.

Ryan’s reply showed up pretty quickly in answer to my project presentation, we shared the same awe and will to experience and make the most out of this unique time together.

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Ryan’s venue in Viterbo was planned on June 2nd but due to schedule issues he arrived only on June 6th.

Jet-Lag and fatigue were pretty hard on him, showing up on the way from the airport already.

However, with the help of my family, we tryied our best to have him feel at ease from the very first moment. Thanks to my wife Nathalie that speaks a perfect English the mission was easily achieved.

The following days we decided that it was time to go to the factory and get the boards shaping started, as we only had 10 custom boards ordered in the very beginning. As soon as the word got on the street, that Ryan was here in Viterbo, my phone started to burn from the incoming calls that I kept on receiving.

Everybody wanted a board from Ryan!!!

Fortunately I had some blanks of mine left at the factory, besides the one’s that I have ordered for Ryan’s venue, that helped us satisfing some last minute latecoming custom orders.

With such premises we were bound to start on the perfect pace.

Just the first day he shaped four boards, a couple of vbowls and some thruhulls. I am still astonished by looking at him shaping, I can’t help but noticing that he doesn’t use any tools, besides a planer and his hands to feel the edges and rails. The hand and heart feeling showed while shaping his crafts is an experience that I’ll always cherish.

He doesn’t miss a single step, every board is a unique masterpiece.

I wanted to ask him a million question, but just staring at his work was an honor, so I silently looked and learned as much as I could.

As the days were passing , we tryed our best to make him feel at ease between the shaping session at the factory.

BBQ’s, lasagne, red wine and the taste of our cuisine, on the factory’s porch, were the daily routine and this was also the best time to approach Ryan and establish a true connection with him.

He asked me if I could organize the projection of his movie “Almost cut my Hair”. Needless to say that I was very happy to organize such great event. Finding the perfect location wasn’t a hard task with the help of some good friends and June 13th was selected as the projection date. We tryied our best to deliver some of the boards that were shaped and glassed previously.

The outcome of that evening was stunning, we had friends coming from the most remote places in Italy just to witness with their own eyes what a special person Ryan is.

Live music from the band Holidays gave the perfect feeling while the movie was being screened, it lasted circa 40 minutes, but we almost felt that the time passed by too fast.

The little crowd was in complete awe at the end of the movie, it has been an unforgettable success.

This experience will be marked forever as one the most intense professionally not to mention of course the human connection.

I believe Ryan is a very down to earth person and he totally opened his heart to my family and me and will always be thankful to him for this.

Thank you Ryan for the great lessons and the time we shared in the shaping room.

A special Grazie goes to Oliver, Axel and Gabry that made this great adventure unique.

Max Purchiaroni

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AXEL PIPERNO PHOTO/ZENZA BRONICA-FUJI COLOR 160 iso-

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After being in italy last year how and what made you decide to visit our country again… thoughts, expectations, and what basically went across your mind?

My aim within travelling with my shaping is to visit where I can when the opportunities arise, last year provided me with exactly that; a super welcoming community that was beyond enthusiastic, warm, and curious about my work.

I’m pretty sure if you’re staring that in the face you’d have to be missing something to turn it down so Italy was an obvious choice for my next place to work the following summer (this year).

I’ve been shaping around the world for the past four years and the one thing I’ve learned to stop doing is expecting anything at all; I bring the tools that I know I love and want to use, and my templates and thats about it! People ask me all

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kinds of things about where I’m going next and whats going to happen but I tell them I really can’t exactly say; I know I’m going to build a certain number of surfboards in a certain place with people I may or may not have met before, which all adds to the intrigue of for me. So few people are offered the opportunity to really go to a new community and settle in for a couple weeks and share something of their own with new people, while the people of that place are sharing their lives with you... the surfboards and surfing aspect of it all adds this strong connector that instantly bonds you to the new place and things are pretty easy from there!

Having experienced Italy, meaning living with an Italian family, soaking the cultural life how did it affects your shaping experience?

Your feeling about sharing this experience with Max, his family and all of us and let me add with the Italian culture.

I can’t even begin to tell you how well I was treated in Italy. Max and his family opened their doors to a total stranger and took insane care of me; I couldn’t have hoped for more and I’ve been living a much more well-rounded lifestyle here than I usually get to at home... a well appreciated break to be sure.

In terms of the entire comunity, the town seems sleepy and quiet around where we were, and extremely beautiful. I know I visited in the best possible season, but I have this image burned into my mind now of what Viterbo is, and its pretty flawless and awe-inspiring.

Showing Almost Cut My Hair to an entirely new community and type of surfer was really a little scary for me at first, I wasn’t sure how well what I made would communicate what I wanted to share of my work, my friends and my home; all of that was dispelled in the first 5 minutes though when the room was hooting and hollering just as loud as at the big premiere back in Santa Barbara... I was floored.

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The shapes of the boards you did back in Italy, tell us about them, the lines, the forms and the multiple use…

Basically everything that comes up to your mind.

The boards I built in Italy are the product of my shaping abroad for the past few years; the first time I visited a new place and sampled it’s waves years ago gave me a solid understanding of what I needed to work towards within my boards to get them to go in other areas of the world. Building the best boards I can for some of the best surfers at the best wave in California (Rincon) has it’s definite plus’ but

I never thought there would be a downside; I found it when I tried to surf some of my boards years ago on one of my first trips.

So the past few years I’ve been working on adaptations to my shapes at home, subtle changes and different shapes altogether that lend themselves more to different waves; that challenge in particular has lead me to my favorite board to date; the v.Bowls.

It stays really fun for me to be able to shape an extremely diverse quiver of boards throughout the year; it never feels stagnant and I always feel engaged in the act of shaping and designing the boards.

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Please, the food heritage and how or shall I say how much quality you have tasted? Besides a few kilos saved for the future‌ Pff... the food, simply amazing. I’m a huge pizza fan, so I was really looking forward to making this pilgrimage to the motherland.

I have sampled some of the most fantastic dishes that I never knew existed and what gets me is generally how simple they are.

I always try to remember one or two dishes to bring back home with me and share with friends or to make for myself when I’m feeling the need to revisit a place... I absolutely have a few nice ones saved up from this trip!

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people to have them, the ones that care and the ones that are looking for something a bit different and more connected; a board that makes you think a little bit and learn something new about their surfing, their board and the relationships involved within all of that. So that being said, spending time in a community like Viterbo, creating an event to meet everyone who ordered a board and getting to give those people the boards that Max and I worked so hard on was such a connected and unique experience; a totally new way for me to build relationships with customers in person (vs. email only) while I travel.

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The human connections and the relations you build during that time in Viterbo also related to the board you build.

One of the main things that I’ve centered my board buiding around is personal connection.

I have offers all the time from shops all over the world that want to carry my boards but I’m extremely picky about which ones I say yes to; its easy to send boards somewhere one time but creating a meaningful relationship and keeping it moving is a big investment in time and effort. I would far rather spend that time and effort meeting and working with the exact people that will be surfing the boards; taking the middleman out of the equation gets people better surfboards one hundred percent of the time. I don’t want everyone in the world on my boards, I just want to right

Ryan Lovelace

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The bay of the seals keeper: July 1st 2013

If you don’t know where Castiglione della Pescaia is, it’s really your fucking business… So you don’t know Italo Calvino, who rests in peace in the graveyard just above the castle with the most beautiful view of the Maremma…

On the east the gentle curves of the hills, wander in centuries-old pine woods, the Padule of Diaccia Botrona, reclaimed by Ximenes, is theatre of sun and moon dawns, far away from reckless speculation, several species of birds fly.

On the west there are three winged openings on the sea that, deceiving even the compass card, show the great surrounding beauty, who came here saw the Tuscan archipelago, Corsica, Uccellina Park, Argentario and, wherever you are, the Tritorre castle of our hearts, after 40 years, I can write it is “Toyland”, of the countryside to the sea and of the vertiginous views (without exaggerating).

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simone giannini, le rocchette. photo ivan trovalusci

Going to the north there are the Rocchette, geologically spectacular, the sandstone becomes light red rock, fading in soft white slabs where the fort of Falcone Lucifer is located.

I don’t want to digress into nostalgia, but here the people of Castiglione discovered the dives in the turquoise Tyrrhenian Sea, the saline (skip the school), the climbs on steep rocks to arrive higher and higher, until shoes must be used, both to climb, and to dive, once on the top, I don’t remember any hesitation, better a feet together dive than descending into friends’ derision and with such act of childlike bravery you deserved the esteem of the elders, something that stays with you inside, if you have an inside…

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I know by myself that I am a melancholy drug addicted, but that’s another sad story and we don’t give a damn, today we speak about the loyal incursion of the surf, the replica of childhood and of what represents today this “spot”, “point”, “beach” or “bay”, call it as your religion suggests, here at Rocchette still dwells the saline, the slow party of a summer day, even in February…

david pecchi, le rocchette. photo ivan trovalusci

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At the end, after having crossed the sexual and sentimental universe of the main ramparts of surf (California, Sonda Islands, Australia, Africa, Europe and Central America), we gather here at the bar, with an alibi, a right wave, on sand, a staircase like third-string “Big Wednesday” and the entire view of the Maremma which is not so bitter.

marco zappelli, le rocchette. photo ivan trovalusci

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If you have a surfboard and you live in Maremma as the wild pig, you are going to pass from here or you have already passed, the cyclogenesis here take root as miracle of absolute uncertainty, the rotation of the winds from north-west are hallucinogenic prerogative to “MezzoMetro� which emanate happiness, which we lost in various sidereal spaces of territorial vanity, mine in primis.

Murmur of many souls, wear for the endemic race, the fortress of Lucifer’s marquise welcomes everybody in unison, you just need to be possessed, dull, disenchanted,

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the rest is made by the miracle, this end of never-started spring gave with arrogance as a present too many nice sea storms, or too few, who was there knows it, we bring the residual with these extraordinary pictures…

The divers of “I believe”, leave from the daring riviera romagnola, from the generous Versilia, from the cold north, few Romans and I’m sorry about that, one though, who doesn’t object to endless excursions in California to Tudor Joel, wealthy big guy who probably finds serenity, here in low Tuscany, far from the capital beauty, another on all Andrea Nacci, when you see Mr. Garagolo coming you understand a lot of things, I get excited as a child on a merry-goround, but the Hawk of the Rocchette is Alessandro Ponzanelli, excellent creature of habit in unsuspecting times, dilated times in my delirious twenties, years that for the strong Lucifer are like centuries, the cupio dissolvi of the Abruzzo trabucco says a lot about the possible intertwining of lives, from there, you live to discover if Salvi’s shoal will guillotine you or will present you with the vision of the mini sombrero, the water always cold as the always green woods even in summer.

I’m writing you these miasma from Rocchette, among a “can I use the key of the toilette and various natant rents”, others’ holidays, I travel in winter…

Il Pecchino

diego beani, le rocchette. photo ivan trovalusci

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.

GRETA CHICHERI

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Art

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I

work of Greta Chicheri does not idealize landscapes but shows them oscilating in time.

They look like images from the past, but we suspect they are also more recent, living achronisms that are now uninhabited.

There are no men in their homes or on their landscapes, from the animal world is only a lonely dog or cat, and some native plants. “Can be enjoyed as a dip in the sea A habitat that urban man or music.Without asking anything, abandoned long ago and that the letting their visual poetry and artist proposes revisiting. mystery penetrate. Discovering a On islands such as Fuerteventura it sunlit world, where there are only is still possible to live in harmony houses, dry land, the atlantic blue with nature, in simple houses and sky and sometimes, the sea or volcanic landscapes, listening some objects that lurk, swimsuits, to the wind whistling and with a surfboards. Common forms with sea of stars in the sky�. which the artist creates an enigmatic poetic reconcile reality So my painting, rather than a and metaphysics. representation, is dreaming of the Friendly to the eye, slightly the world I want to live. nostalgic, subtle and critical, the do not like to talk about my paintings, I prefer that everyone lives them, feels them in their own way.

Yet I like to hear what others say about my work, discovering in my painting much more than I know of my soul.

Carlos Diaz-Beltrana, art critic, writes that my painting:

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“Casa en los árboles” 2013 Acrílico/lienzo 97 x 146 cm

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“Hotel Le Flanboyant” 2013 Acrílico/lienzo 162x 130 cm

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“Northshore” Acrílico sobre lienzo 162 x 130 cm

“Furgo real” 2013 Acrílico/lienzo 60x 50 cm

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PORTRAITS IN WOOD

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y painting is often slow and relaxed, slow and precise, dreaming of the orderly and silent.

Landscapes and architecture mainly. Instead, these portraits corrssponde another facet of my painting and my life.

They are fast paintings of characters encountered along my travels: Tailanda, Cambodia, Sri Lanka, Senegal, etc... Faces found and shaped so fast on wooden boards. They are newspapers or children’s books found wherever the train stops.

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hese collages are born from the need to express quickly, to get my hands dirty, to experiment with different techniques.

Inside them, the waves are mixed with memories collected from

newspapers, magazines and other documents found along my travels They are a mi sea and painting in their most gestural way.

Its main feature is the speed and improvisation within the sea and surf topic.

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the other side of the medal

axel piperno photo

by Axel Piperno

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This is how it all pretty much began for me: Or at least how I think it goes for everyone sooner or later when you start this experience for the first time in your life. So I guess it went the same also for me. I am talking about the very first glide, the very first surf, -call it the way you want- the simple glide that makes you feel the genuine pleasure of sliding smoothly, the very right moment when you really feel that force driving right underneath your belly.

I mean, I am talking about that precise moment when the passion’s door opens up and lets you in, about that same force which is pushing you every single moment when you keep on and on looking for that perfect movement.

This very same sensation timed in seconds but which in fact lasts hours in your mind, and easily brings you to a natural addiction.

But besides this pure act on its own, as years passed on and my experience matured as a natural consequence, I started to give importance and meaning to the steps that had taken me there.

I felt the need to tell about it all, to put it black and white if you prefer, to express what my eyes were perceiving. Since I am extremely shy, it isn’t always easy to express what I have to say, that is why I keep it simple so to make it understandable and enjoyable for who is reading or viewing it.

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axel piperno photo

Looking for the perfect conditions during my travels isn’t that easy task either, but I put every ounce of passion I have for it.

Sometimes it pays off , hopefully most of the times, otherwise I simply eat it.

Like a prawn I’ve dedicated myself to my passion by shooting pictures from the water rather than from the land, and needless to say I started digital and discovered film just lately. To some people it might be unheard of or kind of unusual, but that’s the way it went.

Since I believed in the importance of getting as near as possible to the subject, water photography was then for me the natural way to begin.

Looking at people’s grin on their faces while surfing, bodysurfing or whatever makes them happy, still strucks me the most, as well as exploring beach-break barrels and everything from an inner wave point of view.

To shoot the perfect barrel from deep inside still drives all my energy and my attention.

Whatever the weather is, a perfect glassy day or a choppy windy one with almost unrideable conditions, that is not the main thing for me, but rather the way I can make the most out of it.

Sharing and remembering that single moment as a very special one, rejoycing from a simple swim in the water, on my own or with a fellow waterman that is the most important for me.

The trip usually begins in a friend’s pick up or in my own, on that day it was with Gabriele.

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axel piperno photo

We always look for North of Rome direction journeys, usually when the conditions are rather good.

Otherwise, we start patrolling along the Coast for an uncrowded spot near home, not to loose any precious time sitting in the car, especially when the Mediterranean swell is powered with a nice offshore wind.

In such conditions time matters particularly when you want to get at least a couple of hours of wisdom and pleasure.

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The travel goes beyond the simple act of driving and eating kilometers and kilometers. Dream and travel go side by side together and the length of such a dream is almost as long as the time spent on the road to get to it.

During this trip the excitement that grows in you gives you a warm feeling of joy. That is what we are secretly looking for. And of course reviving every past journey is probably almost as good as a gliding experience:

we commonly call stoke, that sensation which opens your mind more and more and let you enjoy every minute this dream lasts.

However and as it is for most of your steps in life, there’s always “the other side of the medal”: It can’t be always perfect. So the “blues” inevitably finds you when you don’t get what you were exactly looking for in terms of perfect conditions and emotions.

But this is also part of the journey, and as a human being I accept it and live with it.

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talking about past swells and how good the waves were on that perfect day, cheering and enjoying our time together.

Every single moment and experience is a consistent part of that shared friendship of ours in and out of the water.

To look at each other while you paddle back to the line up, to be the witness of your good old time chap’s smile of happiness, fills your heart with joy.

And so does this expression on your face that you almost can’t control anymore, this sense of fulfilment that nowadays

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Billy Wilmot and Ishack, 1984.

Lighthouse Icah

Surfing in

1984, Copa Billy Ishack

Jamaica Jamaica is an enigma. From the days of Sir Henry Morgan and the swashbuckling pirates of the Caribbean who rose to govern the island of Jamaica to Bob Marley who rose fron Trench Town to the dizzying heights of his reggae heyday, things Jamaican have always sprung up from nothing and made their way to the top.

It’s like surfing… in Jamaica?

“Dat don’t make sense… no surf in Jamaica!” Well today you have surfing in Jamaica and guess what… it been going on since the late 1950’s and it’s on the way up!

When I was growing up in the 60’s I

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Jamnesia Billy

saw the “big man dem” riding waves at Cable Hut beach as I was catching waves on my “Belly Board” and wondering what it would be like to ride “one a dem real surfboard”.

Little did I know at that time I would one day be the President of a Jamaica Surfing Association! Jamaica is a third world country of about 3 million people.

The island is 150 miles long by 50 miles across… give or take a mile or two with reggae music and the smell of high grade permeating the air. The eastern end of the island is the surfers end with 300 days of surf a year.

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Zoo 1999, Ishack, Icah, Inilek.

Dog Leg 2010, Shama.

Lighthouse, Icah.

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with a world renown surfing association, Jamaican surfers sponsored by the surfing world’s top brands, Jamaican surf and pro surfers in magazines, surf movies, advertisements and on web sites and national surf teams attending the World Surfing Games at every renewal.

We have national surfing championship series in both open and junior divisions.

Now kids that would be on the streets are in the lineup. We have after school home work and training programs for them. They are involved in a positive movement with their development as the focus and that movement is surfing.

So the future of Jamaica’s surfing is looking bright… because the youth is the future!

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Not the biggest but still paradise... spots like Dog Leg, Groins, Lighthouse, Zoo, 7 Mile, Spot, The Right, The Left, 9 Mile, Fishing Beach, Roselle, Iron Pot, Prospect, Ranch, Long Bay, Boston, Sharkies, Peenie, Wally… waves, waves and more waves… and no crowd!

I started my kids surfing when they were about 5 years old and by the time they were 8-10 they were regular fixtures in the lineup… getting all the table scraps at Zoo. As they got better I thought that they were going to need some functional boards and there was no organized surfing on the island.

No surf shops, no boards, no wax, nothing… and so I set to work at establishing the Jamaica Surfing Association and promoting Jamaica’s surf. Now here we are ten years later

Billy Wilmot

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...more then a surf shop... turtles surf shop Turtle Surf Shop Outlet & Skatepark via Mazzini, 1 17051 Andora -sv0182-683451 www.turtlesurfshop.com

via S. Domenico, 1 17051 Andora -sv0182-683443 turtlesurfshop@gmail.com

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turtles

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