The Fashion Issue

to The Canadian Women’s Magazine

THE

FASHION

$6.99 Display Until December 31st, 2018.

ISSUE

Spotlight on the Canadian Fashion Scene Fall 2018 / No. 43

THE NEW INTENSE FRAGRANCE

to

The Fall

FASHION

ISSUE

With our Exclusive Canadian Fashion Design Exposé FEATURING COVER STORY WITH TOP MODEL ALINE WEBER

Patent leather coat (Price Upon Request) HUGO BOSS. Cover: Blazer (Price Upon Request) CHANEL. Earrings (Price Upon Request) BONHEUR JEWELRY. Photographer RAYAN AYASH at DUNE STUDIOS. Fashion Editor TATIANA CINQUINO at JUDY INC. Makeup SABRINA RINALDI at P1M.ca and THE PROJECT using IT COSMETICS. Hair STEVEN TURPIN at TEAMM MGMT using R+CO. Model ALINE WEBER at NEW YORK MODEL MANAGEMENT.

Cover Story

The Social Activist & Supermodel Aline Weber

Beauty The Ultimate Guide to Finding the Perfect Foundation Best of Beauty, Straight From Our Editors’ Desks Dramatic & Chromatic Western-Inspired Looks

Fashion

Sexy & Sophisticated: CHANEL’s Parisian Allure Louis Vuitton’s Golden Girl Fall for Fantastical Hues and Primal Prints

Canadian Fashion Special

Exclusive Industry Insight from 40+ Key Players Showing Off Our Nation’s Best Designers

Style

Trend Report: The Creme de la Creme of FW18

Culture

Famous Dutch Couturier’s Big Exhibit at the ROM

Fitness

This Superfood is About to Change Your Life Workout Like A Victoria’s Secret Model With Top Industry Trainer

Lifestyle

Luxury Meets Practicality in New Jaguar SUV

Travel Business Music

Tour the French Riviera Like a True Fashionista

The Creative Mind Behind Marc Cain

Meet Canadian Music Sensation Rhye

READMORE ABOUT the CANADIAN FASHIONSCENEAT: DRESSTOKILLMAGAZINE.COM/THE-CANADIAN-FASHION-DIRECTORY

Over the past four months, we’ve had the pleasure of chatting with some of Canada’s greatest, seeking their insight and collaboration to complete our groundbreaking expose on the state of the domestic fashion industry.

These professionals hail from all corners of the industry, each with a unique background, role, and skill set that contributes to the mosaic of talent working in our business. It is with our utmost pleasure that we present this directory; an accessible list of brilliant individuals who strive to strengthen Canada’s fashion industry, both at home and abroad.

to Magazine.com

to FALL 2018 N° 43

President and Editor-in-Chief: Kathia Cambron C.E.O.: Shervin Shirvani Editorial Director: Sylvain Blais

PRODUCTION

Production Manager: Rebecca Kahn Copy Editors: Jane Bradshaw, Rebecca Kahn Interns: William Brazeau, Lara Isin, Vicky Maltais

ART DEPARTMENT

Creative Director: Sylvain Blais Art Director: César Ochoa Graphic Designers: Brandon Dick, Robin Westfield

FASHION

Fashion Editors: Pascale Alhani, Jaclyn Bonavota, Tatiana Cinquino, Fritz, Olivia Leblanc, Tinashe Musara, Peter Papapetrou, Randy Smith, Cary Tauben Assistant Stylists: Emma Beatrix, Julia Debartolo, Keegan Lathe-LeBlanc, Emmanuelle Neron, Lauren Walker Painting Art: Erik Cyr Lighting, Tech, and Digitalization: William Langlais

BEAUTY

Beauty Editors: Nicolas Blanchet, Jane Bradshaw, Rebecca Kahn, Sabrina Rinaldi, Marie-Ève Venne Makeup & Hair Artists: Nicolas Blanchet, Kristen Klontz, Caroline Levin, Maina Militza, Olivier Miotto, Paco Puertas, Sabrina Rinaldi, Leslie-Ann Thomson, Steven Turpin Hair and Makeup Assistants: Jenna Burrell, Rose-Anne Ducharme, Genvieve Hardy, Rachel Hilton

LIFESTYLE

Lifestyle Editor: Marie-Ève Venne

CONTRIBUTORS

Content Editors: Jane Bradshaw, Rebecca Kahn Editor-at-Large: Stéphane Le Duc Senior Fashion Editor: Brenna Dixon Writers: Jane Bradshaw, Kathia Cambron, Brenna Dixon, Rebecca Kahn, Heather Marr, Alexandra Moulin, Aniseh Shafiri, Marie-Ève Venne

PHOTOGRAPHERS

Rayan Ayash, Alex Black, Carlos & Alyse, Genvieve Charbonneau, Erick Faulkner, Mathieu Fortin, Royal Gilbert, Lily & Lilac, Jean-Claude Lussier, Chris Nicholls, Carlyle Routh Assistant Photographers Stacy Lee

WEB

Web Editors: Jane Bradshaw, Brenna Dixon, Rebecca Kahn, Christine-Elizabeth Laprade, Marie-Ève Venne Social Media: Jane Bradshaw, Rebecca Kahn, Marie-Ève Venne Art Director: César Ochoa

SPECIAL EVENTS/PUBLIC RELATIONS info@dresstokillmagazine.com

ADVERTISING

Kathia Cambron - US & National, kathia@dtkmedia.com

SUBSCRIPTION

store.dresstokillmagazine.com

DISTRIBUTION

info@dresstokillmagazine.com Director of Newsstands: Craig Sweetman CRS Media DRESS TO KILL MAGAZINE 5555 Rue De Gaspé, Suite 214, Montréal, Québec, Canada, H2T 2A3, (514) 272-6187 DRESS TO KILLS MAGAZINE is a DTK MEDIA Ltd.. Publication PRINTED BY TRANSCONTINENTAL in Canada P.P. 41883012 -ISSN 1923-0869 KILL - ISSN 1923-0877 Dress to Kill WWW.DRESSTOKILLMAGAZINE.COM

facebook.com/dresstokillmagazine

14

twitter.com/dresstokillmag

instagram: @dresstokillmagazine

Nia Parker & Camryn Hutchinson Hiplets

NEW INTENSIVE HYALURONIC EYE SERUM Hydra-plumping product for the tear trough Anti-wrinkle - Plumping -Anti-fatigue

PROVEN RESULTS

78%

SMOOTH EYE CONTOUR

BIOLOGY DEDICATED TO AESTHETIC

www.esthederm.ca www.esthederm.us #esthedermcanada #esthedermusa

CONTRIBUTORS For our special Canadian fashion issue we asked our contributors: Why the Canadian Fashion Industry?

What do you think about the talent in Canada?

Sabrina Rinaldi

Makeup Artist

“I am so proud to be Canadian. Our creative talent here is so strong! Everyone cares and tries their hardest every day to create something outstanding and worthy of global attention. We are a hardworking industry that I am happy to be a part of.”

Jane Bradshaw

SABRINA RINALDI

Editor

JANE BRADSHAW

“Having worked in the industry since I was 15, I have come to know the incredible talent that Canada has to offer. It’s inspiring to work with and alongside this extremely passionate, creative and driven group. You can tell everything we produce is made with so much heart, and that’s why I love Canadian fashion.”

Nicolas Blanchet

Makeup Artist

“I only got one thing to say. We should be proud of the work we are producing here, knowing that the fashion resources are very limited. We’re doing miracles with nothing. Passion and devotion. Talented and imaginative. That’s how I see my Canadian fashion industry. Bravo tout le monde!!”

NICOLAS BLANCHET

Tinashe Musara

Stylist

TINASHE MUSARA

“Canadian fashion is very much about resilience. It is still very much an industry reliant on its local craftsmanship and personallycultivated relationships, all leading to a very 'organic' experience for the customer.”

Aniseh Sharifi

Writer

“Why Canadian Fashion? Because it’s part of how we express ourselves visually to the rest of the world and within our own diverse cultures. It’s what makes us unique and yet so Canadian as a whole."

ANISEH SHARIFI

Rayan Ayash

Photographer

“Fashion in Canada attracts incredible young new talent. So, it is so important to take risks with young artists. The more Canadian talent we have on the international stage, the stronger and richer this industry becomes.”

RAYAN AYASH RANDY SMITH 18

Randy Smith

Fashion Editor

“Anyone who can manage to make a name and sustain a business in fashion in Canada is a superhero! In a world of fast fashion and high-end luxury brands, to be somewhere in the middle is a constant struggle. It was my honour to be able to put a spotlight on some of the names that are making a splash”

480 Eglinton Avenue West Toronto 416 256 5229 9033 Leslie Street Richmond Hill 905 881 5229

marklash.com

GRETTA CONSTANTINE

Editor’s Note

MARIE SAINT PIERRE

Fashion - some people might think that fashion is just about a piece of clothing or an accessory, but that’s not it. Fashion is part of our culture. It’s an art. It’s there to inspire and transform, it’s something we leave behind to tell about the time we live in.

I have been in the fashion industry for over two decades now, and it’s has been a rich journey. As you probably know by now, I’m quite fascinated by beauty, talent, creativity, ideas, and progress…. So much that I wanted to share this story with you.

The story of exceptional talents that needed to be discovered, that needed a place to evolve and share their work. I think we have accomplished something: we have exposed our Canadian talent and supported our Canadian fashion industry. Each individual on their own are quite exceptional, but we gather them together for something extraordinary.

You saw DTK evolve, transform, and grow.

We took it upon ourselves to create the DTK platform, but we decided to take a step further in sharing our insider knowledge of our Canadian fashion industry, creating four fashion editorials with Canadian-only pieces. You can tell it takes an exquisite team to make those visuals. Randy Smith, one of Canada’s senior fashion editors and art directors, gave us two of these editorials. I would like to salute his talent, as he is a true visionary, and he always pushes the boundaries to help ensure Canada’s international flair. I also want to thank Syvain Blais, co-founder of DTK and creative director, who has always made Dress to Kill look amazing all these years. He was the perfect partner to tell our story.

With an open spirit you can reach any goal.

Enjoy the fall,

20

Kathia Cambron Editor-in-Chief

Don’t miss out on the best of women’s fashion and beauty.

Get Dress To Kill magazine delivered to your door.

Subscribe online www.store.dresstokillmagazine.com

follow us! facebook.com/dresstokillmagazine

@dresstokillmagazine

TREND REPORT CAROLINA HERRERA

YVES SAINT LAURENT YVES SAINT LAURENT

PONCHO SCARF WITH SUEDE TASSELS AND FRINGE ($3,243)

ALBERTA FERRETTI

BALMAIN

CHANEL SUNGLASSES

(PRICE UPON REQUEST)

THE

LOUIS VUITTON PETITE BOITE CHAPEAU BLACK POUCH

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI “RAINA” BLACK SUEDE BOOT WITH CYLINDRICAL HEEL AND CRYSTAL DETAIL ($1,795)

22

VILLAIN

MARC CAIN QUILTED BACKPACK ($800)

Let’s be honest, we all have a little place in our heart for a good villain as long as they have badass style. This fall, go ahead and create a bit of drama and give yourself an extra edge.

By KW

YVES SAINT LAURENT

JAMIE DOCUMENT HOLDER "CARRÉ RIVE GAUCHE" IN LAMBSKIN ($1,120)

JIMMY CHOO HURLEY GOLD BOOT ($2,075)

LOUIS VUITTON WINDSOR FLEUR CREW NECKLACE ($2,310)

DIOR GIAMBATISTA VALLI

PRADA

OFF WHITE

OH DARLING!

For the days you feel lighthearted, you can surround yourself with lucky charms. They could be some delicate flowers on your blouse, refined fabrics under your coat, a beautiful belt, a nice pair of shoes, or a pretty piece of jewellery. Some days you just need that confidence that comes with wearing a pretty talisman.

TIFFANY

PALOMA’S STUDIO RINGS: AQUAMARINE AND GREEN TOURMALINE ($21,000), RUBELLITE AND AMETHYST ($16,000), AMETHYST ($2,800), AND RUBELLITE AND BLUE TOPAZ ($4,500)

GUCCI

LIGHT BLUE CROCODILE SHOULDER FLAP BAG (PRICE UPON REQUEST)

GUCCI

HIGH HEELS WITH ANKLE STRAP ($1,060)

LOUIS VUITTON BAG CAPUCINES PM TAURILLON GREIGE IRIS AMETHYSTE

BALMAIN

POUCH WITH LOGO IN CALFSKIN AND METALLIC LETTERS (1390 EUR)

CHANEL EARRINGS IN GOLD METAL AND RED LEATHER WITH FANTASY PEARLS ($800)

BLUMARINE

ALEXANDER WANG

CHANEL SUNGLASSES ($530)

MAX MARA

COACH

MAX MARA

ANIMAL PRINT BAG ($2,410)

COAT TALES

The coat is the center piece of our wardrobe for the next couple of months. Better get one that suits you and gives you some allure. Long coats are perfect for that: easy to wear with different silhouettes, a long or short skirt, or sporty pants. The latest chic is to wear your coat with pumps or sandals. While we don’t live in Italy, maybe we can pretend for a moment before the snow comes.

BALMAIN BAG B-SOFT IN LEATHER AND SUEDE EFFECT (1390 EUR)

GUCCI

TRAPUNTATA SHOULDER BAG ($2,130)

MIU MIU

MAX MARA FENDI

24

OFF WHITE

MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION

CHANEL 31 BAG IN BLUE AND PINK LEATHER ($5,525)

ROSETTE SHEARLING JACKET (PRICE UPON REQUEST)

MARNI PHILIPP PLEIN

BALMAIN

STUART WEITZMAN PURPLE PUFFER BOOT ($462)

WINTER GAMES BAG BBOX IN QUILTED NYLON (1790 EUR)

We all know the real meaning of winter coming… You better have your winter gear figured out before the cold locks you in. Grab a colourful or oversized coat, fun winter boots, lots of layers and textures, fake fur, a big scarf, and voila, you are ready for your Canadian winter.

JIMMY CHOO FRINGE BOOT ($1,675)

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN ‘ORIONA’ SILVER NAPPA SILK AND SPECCHIO LEATHER 140MM ANKLE BOOTS ($2,775)

BALENCIAGA VERSACE

FASHION

VISUAL OPTIMISM ENCHANTING patterns, SULTRY COLOURS, AND SOPHISTICATED shapes, the latest LOUIS VUITTON collection has CAREFULLY CRAFTED lust-worthy FEMININITY for FALL. Photographer Mathieu Fortin Fashion Editor Cary Tauben

Sweatshirt Cardigan with Devore Motif, Pleated Skirt, and Headline Slingback Pump (Prices Upon Request) LOUIS VUITTON.

This page: Short Sleeve Mix Material Top with Ruffle, Knee Length A-Line Skirt with Snaps, and LV Windsor Pear Bo Bow Strass Earrings (Prices Upon Request) LOUIS VUITTON. Opposite page: Double Breasted Belted Jacket, Butterfly Print Button Up Knit Body, and Headline Slingback Pump (Prices Upon Request) LOUIS VUITTON.

This page: Short Shearling Coat, Graphic Jacquard Sleeveless Knit Gilet, V Gloves, and Twist Knit PM (Prices Upon Request) LOUIS VUITTON. Opposite page: Long Sleeve Gazar Top with Graphic Jersey, A-Line Skirt with Embroidered Belt, Headline Slingback Pump, and LV Windsor Fleur Collier Cravate (Prices Upon Request) LOUIS VUITTON. Photographer MATHIEU FORTIN at L'ELOI. Fashion Editor CARY TAUBEN at THE PROJECT. Hair & Makeup LESLIE-ANN THOMSON at THE PROJECT. Model ANISHA SANDHU at ELITE TORONTO.

BUSINESS

MARC CAIN

DAZZLING FEMININITY Impeccable cuts, timeless style, vibrant colours, and signature patterns. For the past 45 years, Marc Cain has interpreted couture classics with a trendy "je ne sais quoi" inspired by its German roots and observed Italian fashion sense.

Stephen Belfer, the brand's Managing Director for North America, walks us through the eclectic and fascinating house codes.

By Alexandra Moulin

S

tephen Belfer is managing the North American side of Marc Cain, but the brand was created back in 1973 by Helmut Schlotterer, who wanted to save his father’s knitting company, turning the family business into a multinational success. Since then, the brand has stayed true to its original concepts: seductive, trendy, tailor-made, and innovative, with hypnotic colours, fabrics, and cuts.

Inspired by Italian unbridled creativity, a feminine fashion sense, and relentless elegance, the brand’s CEO soon understood he would need to control the entire chain to maximize profit – one that could carry him long-term. He recruited designers, integrated production facilities and kept a close eye on innovative technology to secure sustainable growth. As North America’s Managing Director Stephen Belfer tells us, “In the Marc Cain business model, stagnation means regression.” Forty-five years later, collections are sold in 57 countries in signature boutiques and upscale networks, reporting over-the-top benefits and employing over 1,000 people in Germany. I’d call that a success.

32

GEORGIA FOWLER

Involved Ambassadors

Chatting with Belfer, he emphasizes the house’s new fashion era that is about to be unveiled. After over 40 years of faithful and inspirational lead, Creative Director Karin Veit has announced her departure. Quite nostalgic to see her go, Belfer also shows genuine excitement and curiosity over the next collections. “Our customer – especially our Canadian Marc Cain woman – continues to be receptive to fashion that is unmistakably different,” he tells us, hence the new designer – whose name will be revealed in October – will have to integrate the brand’s assets into the creations, starting with leopardprint pieces. “[We] worked and tailored with renewed inspiration for every collection, [and leopard print] has reached the status of iconic to Marc Cain. For instance, this season we have a fantastic leopard print faux-fur coat. Georgia Fowler - the charismatic 26-year-old New Zealand model - wore it as the opening look for the Fall/Winter 2018 fashion show,” Belfer tells us. Modeled around renewed inspiration for every season, Marc Cain’s “incredible grace” has become a trademark of the brand, reinvented on bags, shoes, belts, pants, blouses, and so much more.

Besides the wildcat print, Marc Cain’s touch relies on strong colour.

Reminiscent of houses like Ungaro or Yves Saint Laurent, we’ve seen the label rock daring combinations of orange and fuchsia, statements of colours and surprising pops of powdered rose and vibrant red.

Patterns and shapes are blended in irreverent harmonies, as the Marc Cain woman likes to reveal her confidence through what she wears. The secret to her elegance? The finest materials selected for the audacious colour schemes, from the most refined cashmeres and knits to lightweight cottons and linens, inherited from the company’s roots. One-hundredpercent produced in Germany, all pieces pay a tribute to the quality, durability, and sustainability of their mother country. Femininity and rigor is reconciled in fashion.

Like timeless couture houses, the Marc Cain pieces carry an enduring, versatile style, securing customers’ faithfulness, as they like to mix older pieces with the latest designs. Vintage meets modern in an effortless way, spelling out a sustainable fashion statement which has inspired contemporary influencers, like Kate Bosworth or American actress Sarah Rafferty, who regularly applaud the German brand. A proud ambassador of the brand’s style and values, Rafferty likes to embrace the fashion creations for her daily life and major events. Stephen Belfer describes her as “a strong, independent customer who loves her femininity. Our brand celebrates and is inspired by confident women with a strong sense of style and consciousness of giving back to the community.”

Rafferty embraced a charity project uniting the brand and Plan International, one of the world’s leading non-profit organizations striving to improve the lives of children around the world.

“Together, we designed and sold the Marc Cain Charity Bag, a Mother’s Day limited edition leather purse whose sales help to support Plan International,” Belfer explains. “As the company continues to grow, I think we should never forget to give back to our communities, as this ensures the success of tomorrow.”

“

SARAH RAFFERTY

“

Let’s Talk About Fashion

I THINK WEshould NEVERFORGET TOGIVE BACK TO This is the first achievement dedicated OUR communities, AS to giving back, with a second opus THIS ENSURES launching soon.

THESUCCESS OF TO MORROW. The North American Adventure Based on such prestigious partnerships, Belfer details the current expansion plans across the North American region: “[We’re] starting with a second retail store in Vancouver [in the] beginning of 2019, before the brand continues to unfold out west… and south! Miami will host a popup store at the Brickell City Centre this September, while other projects continue to flourish as opportunities arise.”

Happy as a kid with long-awaited toys, he also mentions how trendy the new brand app will be, as well as the North American online boutique. The ultimate Marc Cain experience favours a personalised luxurious experience in a relaxed style.

Stephen Belfer

MARC CAIN CHARITY BAG

33

Charm of

CHANEL The EPITOME of LUXURY, CHANEL will forever REMAIN a STAPLE in the FASHION INDUSTRY. MASTERING the ART of MIXING CLASSIC STYLES and PARISIAN charm with MODERNITY, NO ONE can TOP this ELITE FRENCH ATELIER.

Photographer Erick Faulkner Fashion Editor Fritz

Handbag ($4,800), Gloves ($1,725), and Necklace ($11,325) CHANEL.

This page: Dress ($11,975), Jacket ($9,400), Lace-Up ($1,130), and Tights ($300) CHANEL. Opposite page: Brooch ($1,400), Coat ($8,050), Earrings ($1,275), and Boots ($2,725) CHANEL.

This page: Jacket ($9,175), Skirt ($3,575), Belt ($2,800), and Earrings ($1,275) CHANEL. Opposite page: Gloves ($1,725), Necklace ($11,325), and Flap Bag ($6,550) CHANEL. Photographer ERICK FAULKNER. Fashion Editor FRITZ. Makeup & Hair PACO PUERTAS at FOLIO using CHANEL. Model TORI MONET at WILHELMINA MODELS. Assistant phographer STACY LEE.

BEAUTY NEWS LA PERLA

TOM FORD

AESOP Montréal Travel Kit ($99)

Maybe it’s the sleek packaging or the fact that it is named after one of our favourite Canadian cities, but it’s hard not to fall in love with this travel kit which includes Aesop’s simple and universal formulas. It comes with a shampoo, conditioner, body cleanser, body balm, face cleanser, toner, hydrating cream, hydrating masque, and lip cream – everything you need to survive as a traveler. - RK

Trend

REPORT

As we retire our cut-offs and flip flops for leather jackets and booties, our beauty looks tend to switch up for the season. The Canadian climate prevents us from pretending we’re permanently sun-kissed. Our editors have picked their favourite products that will keep you looking your best all the way ‘til the holidays.

CONSONANT Natural Foaming Face Wash ($22)

CHANEL Rouge Coco Lip Blush ($37) INSTITUT ESTHEDERM Cellular Water Mist ($39 USD) After long days spent soaking up the summer sun, your skin is longing for revival. The Cellular Water Mist is as powerful as a serum and enriched with Hyluronic Acid to boost hydration, smooth out the texture, and provide cell vitality to resist aging factors. The refreshing spray is a perfect (and easy!) first step of any skincare routine and, I promise you, is as effective as it is addictive. - JB

2

Some may say my addiction for red lipstick is beyond any recovery, but I like to think of it as part of my signature look.

My must-have beauty product for fall is this new lipstick by CHANEL in Burning Berry. It offers a gel blush for when you need that extra pop of colour and is the perfect “I just bite my lips” kind of shade with a moisturizing Hydraboost complex, making you perfectly kissable. – MEV

If there is one product that I can’t live without, it’s this. The best-selling cleanser from Canadian brand Consonant is soft on skin but extremely effective and full of nourishing ingredients like tea tree oil, green tea, ginger root, cucumber, and lemon peel extract. It fights blemishes, hydrates the skin, and evens the skin tone while removing makeup and eliminating the need for a toner. Your face will feel cleaner and better than ever.

It’s magic in a bottle. - JB

BENEFIT COSMETICS Brow Contour Pro ($42)

I am so excited about the Benefit Brow Contour Pro! Not only is it visually super cute (it looks like those pens you had in high school that had all the different ink colour options at the push of a button), but it is also super practical and has everything you need in one place. Highlight, define, shade - whatever your brow goals, this pen can meet them! As a makeup artist I also love any product that can save space in my kit. - SR

GUCCI

BLOOM NETTARE DI FIORI ($168/100ML) THE GUCCI BLOOM SERIES HAS BECOME A FAVOURITE AMONG CONTEMPORARY WOMEN, EXUDING YOUTHFUL ENERGY AND OPTIMISM IN DISTINCT FLORAL SCENTS. THE FRAGRANCE HAS A BASE OF PATCHOUILI, MUSKS, AND OSMANTHUS FOR A SOFT, SULTRY FOUNDATION THAT IS BUILT UPON

BY NOTES OF JASMINE, RANGOON CREEPER, AND TUBEROSE. THE TOP NOTES ARE GINGER AND ROSE, CHARACTERIZING A CONFIDENT AND AUTHENTIC GUCCI WOMAN.

MIU MIU

FLEUR D’ARGENT ($150/100ML) FLEUR D’ARGENT FEATURES A SOPHISTICATED TUBEROSE WITH MUSK ACCORD AND THE SIGNATURE UNDERTONE OF AKIGALAWOOD TO COMPOSE AN ENERGIZING, FULL SCENT FOR THEIR MODERN CUSTOMER. STILL DELICATE AND SWEET, THE PARFUM HAS MATURED WITH THE MIU MIU CUSTOMER, UNVEILING A SLEEK, MODERN TAKE ON THE BRAND’S HEROINE.

ERIC BUTERBAUGH VELVET LAVENDER ($295 USD/100ML)

LAVENDER IS ONE OF THE MOST ACCESSIBLE AND UNIVERSALLY-LOVED SCENTS BUT IS RARE TO FIND IN A TIMELESS FRAGRANCE. MASTER PERFUMER HARRY FREMONT MASTERS THE CHALLENGE, COMBINING WARMTH AND SENSUALITY WITH BALANCE AND INTRIGUE. NOTES OF VANILLA, SAGE, SANDALWOOD, AND MUSK CLUTCH TO THE LAVENDER BASE; IT’S A CAPTIVATING COMBINATION THAT BRINGS POWERFUL FEMININITY.

NEST

COCOA WOODS ($98/50ML) AT SEPHORA NEST’S LATEST EAU DE PARFUM IS MADE FROM THE ESSENCE OF BITTERSWEET COCOA, SEQUOIA WOOD, WHITE SANDALWOOD, TIARE BLOSSOM, AND THAI GINGER; THIS SPICY AND MUSKY TREAT FROM THE FAMED FRAGRANCE COMPANY IS A WARM INDULGENCE. A SENSE OF EMPOWERMENT AND LUXURY HAS NOW BEEN CAPTURED IN A BOTTLE, SO YOU CAN TAKE ON THE WORLD BY STORM.

CALVIN KLEIN

WOMEN ($119/100ML) AT HUDSON’S BAY WOMEN IS A PERFECT EMBODIMENT OF STRONG FEMININITY AND FEATURES NOTES OF EUCALYPTUS, ORANGE FLOWER PETALS, AND ALASKAN CEDARWOOD TO PLAY UPON CONTRASTS THAT MIRROR THE VARIED PERSONALITIES OF THE WOMEN IT WAS INSPIRED BY. THINK STRENGTH MEETS VULNERABILITY AND FRESHNESS MEETS SENSUALITY.

LUXURY BRANDS are turning towards A STRONGER, confident woman as THEIR MUSE, AND THEIR LATEST SCENTS ARE MEANT TO MATCH THIS NEW WAVE of empowerment.

By Jane Bradshaw

Makeup: Quatuor Eyeshadows in Eye Quad ($110) TOM FORD. Eyeshadow M-Black 990 A ($19) SHU UEMURA. Eye Kohl in Smolder ($22) MAC COSMETICS. Rouge Gourmand Glow Hydrating Lip Balm in Melon Sorbet ($23) LISE WATIER. Satin Desing ($42) and Cotton Uzu ($42) SHU UEMURA. Clothing: Red Dress MIU MIU. Leopard Shirt ALTUZARRA. White Hat FUMILE.

Modern Western

THE WILD WEST of NORTH AMERICA is no LONGER FILLED with ROLLING FIELDS and solemn COWBOYS, but the FRONTIER has NOT LOST its CHARM. WE’VE PIONEERED STATEMENT LOOKS, TAKING Western-inspired GLAM into the MODERN AGE. Photographer Royal Gilbert Creative direction Atelier Vingt Quatre Fashion Editor Olivia Leblanc Makeup Nicolas Blanchet Hair Olivier Miotto Painting Erik cyr

This page: Makeup: Great Brow in Cork ($37) MAC COSMETICS. Tightline Cake Eyeliner in Noir ($32) LAURA MERCIER. Flash Color Case 900 ($110) MAKE UP FOR EVER. K.I.S.S.I.N.G Lipstick in The Duchess ($39) CHARLOTTE TILBURY. Glow Stick Glistening Illuminator in Spotlight ($53) MARC JACOBS. Kaze Wave ($42) and Cotton Uzu ($42) SHU UEMURA. Clothing: Lilac Turtleneck ACNE. Red Shirt HUGO BOSS. Léopard Coat ALTUZARRA. Opposite page: Makeup: Tarteist Clay Paint Liner ($29) TARTE at SEPHORA. Superhero Liner ($32) IT COSMETICS at SEPHORA. Double Definition Automatic Brow Liner in Blond ($22) LISE WATIER. Shimmer Eyeshadow in Ashes to Ashes ($26) and Velvet Matte Lip Pencil in Walkyrie ($27) NARS. Volume Maker ($50) and Texture Wave ($42) SHU UEMURA. Clothing: Denim Shirt MAVI. Silk Scarf MAISON SIMONS. Red Sweater STELLA MCCARTNEY at HOLT RENFREW. Photographer ROYAL GILBERT. Creative Direction ATELIER VINGT QUATRE. Hair & Makeup NICOLAS BLANCHET at FOLIO. Fashion Editor OLIVIA LEBLANC. Hair OLIVIER MIOTTO at SALON GLAM. Model DANAE at MONTAGE. Painting Art ERIK CYR. Hair & Makeup Assistant ROSE-ANNE DUCHARME.

BEAUTY REVIEW

FLAWLESS

FOUNDATIONS FOUNDATION is having a MOMENT AND SKIN is IN! The MAKEUP WORLD is finally CATCHING ONTO THE FACT that people COME in SHADES LIGHTER THAN ‘IVORY’ AND DARKER than‘TAN’.

By Sabrina Rinaldi

S

ome brands have collections with up to 40 different skin tones and in a variety of formulas from dewy to shimmery to matte. Read on to see what is your best match!

Over the past month, I tried, tested, and wore every single one of these foundations. I wanted to see how they performed on my less-than-perfect, normal-to-oily skin. I also tried them on the many, many models I work with on a daily basis. It took time to try and assess each product multiple times, but the results speak for themselves. Read on to find your new favourite foundation!

46

Makeup: On Idil: Shameless Youthful Look 24H Foundation ($56) MARC JACOBS BEAUTY. On Anisha: Synchro Skin Glow ($58) SHISEIDO. Jewellery: On Idil: Earring ($92) CUCHARA. On Anisha: Earring ($115) BIKO.

Liquid Matte LONG LASTING

Thanks to Instagram and its myriad of filters, brands are pumping out long wearing, ultra-matte formulas that give you that FaceTune flawlessness in real life. These formulas are definitely not for those with dry skin or who want a minimal look. But if you’re looking for perfect skin from first sip of coffee ‘til last sip of wine, these long-lasting formulations will have you looking celeb-worthy all day long!

MAKEUPFOREVER Velvet Matte Skin ($48)

TOOFACED Peach Perfect Foundation ($45)

What excited me the most was that MUFE also has a hydrating base to prep skin for the gorgeous matte foundation that follows. This base is the perfect amount of moisture and silkiness to ready your canvas (to be consistent with all the brands, I used this base under all the matte foundations). The Velvet Matte formula glides onto skin and lasts all day. This stand-out product comes in a 40-shade range that makes it so that there is a colour for everyone.

The latest by Too Faced is a new way to wear matte.

You still get your perfect medium coverage but with the added benefits of slight luminosity and a demi-matte finish. Don’t get me wrong – this is still 100% transfer resistant and long-wearing, it just accomplishes this goal with new technology and the added bonus of a peachy scent. Peachtastic!

URBANDECAY Naked Skin ($49)

For those wanting to step into the matte skin arena but don’t want the full coverage look, you may want to give Naked Skin a try. Much like its name suggests, this goes on as a second skin. It’s light-weight in feel and pay off.

The liquid formula dries to a matte finish while still giving the skin a hint of transparency that would let the cuteness of freckles show through. This is a solid option for a daily foundation.

FENTY Pro Filter ($42)

Riri sets the bar high with the Pro Filter foundation. This glorious, full coverage matte goes on as a creamy liquid and gives you enough time to blend before it sets into an immaculate matte finish. Let it be said that while I don’t especially love matte foundation, it certainly loves me and my oily Italian skin. These long wear formulas only get better as the day wears on and they stay strong.

YSLBEAUTY All Hours ($66)

Luxury brands are luxury for a reason, and this soft matte foundation is no exception. It’s very lightweight and imparts the most natural of matte finishes. It did a pretty good job of standing up to a long day shooting outdoors on location. The temperature was set to 32 degrees and my face was set to last.

CHARLOTTETILBURY Magic Foundation ($50)

Charlotte Tilbury is known for her passion and dedication to the quality and performance of her products. That can definitely be seen with her Magic Foundation. Its magical blend gives way to a gorgeous semi-matte finish.

It not only looks luxurious on the skin - it feels luxurious too. While it is long-wearing, it doesn’t make claim to last a magnitude of hours, but that’s ok. It’s a beautiful foundation that will work on most skin types.

BURT’SBEES Goodness Glows ($19.99)

Another brand known for their natural ingredients and good-for-your-skin products is Burt’s Bees. I absolutely loved the lighter, dewier pay off of this foundation. The meadow foam seed oil keeps skin feeling moisturized without a greasy or heavy feel.

My favourite way to apply this was with my fingers, as it blended easily into my skin.

MILKMAKEUP Blur Liquid ($48)

If you don’t know Milk Makeup, you should quickly acquaint yourself. This brand – who launched from the legendary photo studio in New York – is style plus performance in one cute little package. The Blur Liquid foundation is a testament to that. It offers a demi-matte finish that leaves skin impeccably smooth and yields a hint of creaminess to take the edge off of the extramatte look of other brands. This, to me, makes it a stand out in its category. While not touting to be as long lasting as some other brands, this got me through an entire night of eating and crying at an Italian family wedding! Bellissima!

BENEFIT Hello Happy Soft Blur Foundation ($38)

As always, Benefit wins me over with their cute packaging and attention to detail.

Testing the Hello Happy foundation gave way to complete awe and adoration.

This foundation blew my mind. It evened out my skin and applied perfectly. It then set into my skin in the most natural and undetectable of matte finishes. It proceeded to last all day without falter.

For those wanting a longwear in a lightto-medium coverage, I highly recommend Hello Happy!

49

Makeup: On Alexis: Your Skin But Better CC Cream Plus Illumination ($49) IT COSMETICS. On Jenai and Kris: Tinted Moisturizer Illuminating ($56) LAURA MERCIER. Clothing: On Jenai: Top ($405) ELIZABETH AND JAMES at SIMONS.

5

&

FOUNDATION STICKS Cushion CompactFoundations Those who travel often or live their lives on-the-go might find the idea of a liquid foundation plus Beauty Blender too cumbersome. Enter stick foundations: as simple to use as they are to carry around. These formulas are practical and functional all in one.

CLEDEPEAU Radiant Stick Foundation ($130.28)

I underestimated just how creamy and glowy a stick foundation could be. The minds behind Cle De Peau have certainly delivered with this light and dewy foundation stick. Its soft consistency blends into the skin with such little effort, making the skin feel supple and fresh. It’s definitely for those striving for a minimal look.

The latest from many brands comes in the format of a compact. A creamy cushion of product sits inside beautiful packaging. Quick and easy to apply, these cushions definitely have staying power.

SULWHASOO Perfecting Cushion Intense ($110)

CHANEL Vitalumiere Glow Luminous Touch Foundation ($70)

When you think of Chanel, you think of sophistication.

And so you should, with this foundation in a compact.

It imparts the most perfect glow without being too sheer, nor too heavy. The creamy consistency is perfect and blends into the skin like butter on a hot baguette. C’est magnifique!

I recently became aware of the magic that is Sulwhasoo.

A fellow makeup artist raved about their skincare, and I immediately went out and bought it. Not only do I love it for myself, but I use it on the models I work with daily. So, I was excited to try their version of the cushion foundation. It did not disappoint and had the most perfect finish that was neither too heavy nor too light. Sulwhasoo, I love you!

AMOREPACIFIC Colour Control Cushion Compact ($78)

They had me at SPF 50! Anytime a brand has a serious level SPF, I take note. Suncare is of utmost priority to me, so to have the protection plus the hydrating benefits that this foundation provides makes it an enjoyable product to wear daily.

51

SHIMMER FOUNDATION & Liquid Tint

What’s better than a dewy glow? A dewy glow that also imparts the most natural of shimmering, glowing iridescence. While I only got to try two foundations in this category, both exceeded my expectations of skin transformation. #glowup ITCOSMETICS Your Skin but Better CC+ Illumination ($49)

“no-makeup” makeup look. No one quite does it like Laura Mercier and the illuminating version adds a shimmer and glow to their original formula. Bolder in pay-off than IT Cosmetics, this is one of my new must-haves!

Let it be said that the IT Cosmetics CC Cream is my #1 foundation. I have been using it and recommending it for years. Last year, they arrived at Sephora. Prior to that, I had to stock up at Ulta on my US visits. Now that it is easily available, I am happy I have access to the entire line.

Let it be said, I love minimal, The shimmer and glow from dewy and effortless looking their illuminating CC cream are skin, but it does not love me. in line with their brand mentalMy skin is far too oily and ity: making skin gorgeous. The eats up makeup far too fast. shimmer is so fine and minimal Nevertheless, I do get to live that it just adds to the overall glow. So, for those wanting to my dewy dreams on the faces look less like a holiday ornaof the models I work with. ment and more like they are These following foundations just lit from within, this is your have now found a home in new favourite foundation. my makeup kit.

LAURAMERCIER Tinted Moisturizer Illuminating ($56)

The tinted moisturizer from Laura Mercier has been one of my ultimate choices for that minimal

52

MARCJACOBS Beauty Shameless Youthful Look 24H Foundation ($56)

This foundation is everything you want it to be and more. Like the perfect pair of jeans, this formula hits all the right notes and is sure to make you a loyal customer.

SHISEIDO Synchro Skin Glow ($58)

Housed in beautiful glass bottles, this is one divine foundation. It worked to enhance the already flawless skin of the model I tested it on, bringing out her natural glow and radiance. It also did a pretty good job on my skin, which is quite the feat for a minimal formula.

Makeup: On Damaris: Pro Filter Foundation ($42) FENTY. On Shelly: Lock-It Tattoo Foundation ($42) KAT VON D. Clothing: On Shelley: Shirt ($59) ICÔNE at SIMONS. Photographer CARLOS & ALYSE. Art Direction, Text, and Makeup SABRINA RINALDI at P1M.ca and THE PROJECT. Fashion Editor JACLYN BONAVOTA. Hair KIRSTEN KLONTZ. Models DAMARIS at B&M MODEL MANAGEMENT, SHELLEY, ALEXIS CARRINGTON, and JENAI at ANITA NORRIS MODELS, IDIL at DULCEDO, ANISHA at ELITE, and KRIS at WANT. Assistants JENNA BURRELL and RACHEL HILTON.

63

FITNESS

Train like a

MODEL Some are born with it; some just work hard. Heather Marr is a Canadian expat living in New York City and known internationally as the go-to training guru for working and aspiring models alike. Her aesthetic-focused custom training programs create ideal figures through a combination of nutrition and exercise.

While it’s no secret that models need to be tall and slim, the industry also covets certain proportions and looks.

For instance, a long neck is desired by

54

“

everyone, but especially so in fashion.

If a girl is born with a shorter neck, dropping the size of the trapezius (the upper back muscle that appears to sit above the collar bone and connect to the neck) as much as possible will help to create the impression of a longer neck. With muscle, the golden rule is if you don't use it, you lose it. This rule can be applied, of course, to shape and control the size on all areas of the body, not just focused on the trapezius.

Clients often hire me to create an hourglass shape for their physique.

If a girl is born with a wider hip bone, for instance, this can be balanced by bringing up the medial deltoids (shoulder). This will also make the waist appear smaller resulting in a curvy, feminine finish.

IT IS VITAL that YOUR efforts IN THE KITCHEN ARE SUPPORTING what YOU’RE DOING IN THEGYM, OR THE desired RESULTS WON’T BE THERE. Heather Marr

“

A

esthetic training is an art using the human body as the subject to mold. It is my passion and where I have been fortunate enough to carve a career for myself in fashion, working with models. Training and nutrition are used like strokes of a paint brush to shape and manipulate not only the body size, but proportions and symmetry as well. A person's bone structure cannot be changed, but muscle can be added to or stripped from certain areas to create the illusion of desired proportions and even the illusion of bone structure, to a degree.

The hip measurement in fashion is very important: the major markets expect girls to maintain a measurement under 36”. This strict standard exists because models need to be able to fit into the client’s samples, and clients have a baseline for what size they need to construct (for runways/presentations) or pull (for photoshoots). When training, it is important to be cognisant of not increasing the size of the glutes if the model is struggling with their hip measurement, no matter how trendy these moves currently are. This is especially true for a girl who may have a wider hip bone, as this type of training would further increase their hip circumference.

Instead, training and cardio can be focused actually on decreasing size in that area.

Nutrition is so important in controlling the size of the body. It is vital that your efforts in the kitchen are supporting what you’re doing in the gym, or the desired results won’t be there. When trying to lose body fat or decrease measurements, there needs to be a caloric deficit in the diet. If you’re eating too much (even if it’s healthy choices!) and not creating a caloric deficit, not only will weight-loss not occur, but it is even possible to gain weight/size. In order to add muscle or increase size (for those looking to do so), the diet needs to support these goals. A person can be weightlifting with excellent programming, but if they are not taking in the food necessary to increase muscle mass and size, they will find themselves simply spinning their wheels in the gym. With intelligent, targeted training and proper nutrition, the possibilities for molding the human body are endless.

CURRENT AND PAST CLIENTS OF MARR: CAROLINE BRASCH NIELSON @CAROLINE_BRASCH (TOP), KATE BOGUCHARSKAIA @FOXY1KATE (MIDDLE), AND VITA SIDORKINA @VITASIDORKINA (BOTTOM) AND WALKING IN THE VICTORIA’S SECRET FASHION SHOW IN 2015 (RIGHT).

WANT TO TRAIN LIKE ONE OF HEATHER’S CLIENTS? The former model turned personal trainer is the co-author of The Model Trainer Method, a comprehensive guide to exercising and eating like a model. For more information, visit liftologie.com/product/themodel-trainer-method/ or follow her on Instagram @modeltrainermarr

55

FITNESS

PHOTO BY MEGAFOOD

The Magic of Maca Legend has it that Inca warriors ate the maca root before going into battle to give them energy and stamina. For two weeks, we put that rumour to the test to see if maca is as much of a superfood as it’s hyped up to be. By Jane Bradshaw

T

hanks to Gwyneth and her website goop.com, superfoods have infiltrated our palates over the past couple of years.

Everyone from Beyonce to McDonald's are using these so-called miracles, but with the increasing saturation of “health” food, it’s hard to see which ingredients are truly beneficial. Recently, we were introduced to the cruciferous plant maca, a relative of broccoli and cabbage that is cultivated only at high altitudes.

WHAT IS MACA? According to the National Institutes of Health, the maca root is about the size of a turnip and is native to the harsh, dry climates of the Andes mountains. It has been a traditional food and medicine plant for Peruvians for centuries, thought to have energy-instilling properties and be densely nutritious. In order to safely consume it, you must

56

heat the roots of the adaptogen to release its medicinal qualities, either by boiling or roasting the whole root. Most people will consume it in powder form.

There are three types of harvested maca, distinguished by their colour: yellow, red, and black. You’re likely to find a mixture of all three in powder products at your local grocery or health food store.

Nutrition-wise, maca is packed full of benefits. One half-teaspoon (2.5 grams) is only 10 calories and covers 10% of your recommended daily iron and vitamin C needs and 15% of your copper needs.

It is also chock-full of essential vitamins, such as B1, B2, and E, and minerals like calcium and zinc.

Plus, it has eight essential amino acids – these are important to have in your diet, as our bodies need them for growth, digestion, and tissue repair, but we cannot produce them ourselves.

THE BENEFITS OF MACA While only preliminary research has been conducted, the root is thought to be a natural energizer that increases libido, balances hormones, improves fertility, and regulates immune response. After a little over two weeks of testing, I have to concur. Not only did I feel more energized throughout the day, I felt like I was able to concentrate better on my work and felt balanced.

My experience echoed that of various studies.

Maca is thought to aid in bringing back homeostasis throughout the body, increasing efficiency to demonstrate a feeling of overall wellbeing. Maca doesn’t contain hormones or change blood hormone levels, but it acts upon the endocrine system to improve communication between the brain and pituitary gland, as well as the adrenals.

Because of the high nutritional value, the compounds in maca help to restore both physical and mental energy levels, building stamina, endurance, and overall strength.

taking one and a half to three grams of maca a day for one to six months. Other research saw an improvement in sperm count and motility in men when using maca, and early research even suggests that it may improve sexual dysfunction in women who are taking antidepressents. University of Michigan Health System found that in a double-blind study, maca increased sexual desire in young and middle-aged males. While these findings come from small studies, limiting their reliability, it may be worth a try.

According to Christy Brisette, R.D., president of 80 Twenty Nutrition, research has shown that men and women have found a libido boost after

We used celebrity nutritionist and best-selling author Dr. Joey Shulman’s recipe.

HOW TO USE

INGREDIENTS

Because of maca’s strong malty flavour, it’s easier to incorporate the powder into your diet with other tasty foods. Hardcore superfoodies love to blend it with shilajit and chaga to create a natural sweetener that tastes similar to butterscotch coffee. The simplest way to use it is in a smoothie, as seen at health hotspots like Revitasize in Toronto and Juice Press in New York City.

1 tsp instant coffee 1 tsp cacao powder ¼ c boiling water 1 frozen banana, broken into chunks ½ cup unsweetened almond milk 1 tbsp almond butter 1 tbsp maca powder 1 scoop of protein powder Cinnamon Ice

DIRECTIONS 1. Add instant coffee and cacao powder into a mug of boiling water and stir to dissolve.

Pour the mixture into a blender.

2. Add in the rest of the ingredients and blend until completely smooth.

Serving Size: 1 PHOTO BY BLISSFULBASIL

57

RHYE A LOOK AT MUSIC SENSATION

SWEATER ($640) ACNE STUDIOS AT HOLT RENFREW. PHOTOGRAPHER CARLYLE ROUTH. FASHION EDITOR PASCAL ALHANI AT JUDY INC. GROOMING CAROLINE LEVIN. ASSISTANT PHOTOGRAPHER MIKE KAZIMIERCZUK

MUSIC

It was a few summers ago when I first heard his music. The sensuality of the voice mixed with happy (but not sappy) romantic lyrics was an absolutely captivating combination, and I already knew that I would spend my summer listening to it on repeat. That’s how I discovered Rhye’s music. By Marie-Ève Venne

58

B

orn Mike Milosh, the LA-based Toronto-bred singer-songwriter, multi-instrumentalist, and producer briefly enjoyed a moment of musical anonymity after the release of his first album Woman in 2013, before having to escape from his shell and expose himself to his public.

Now famously known as a talented artist and with a new album, Blood, under his belt, he still approaches music as a private affair between him and his creative flow.

Blood, bringing a lot of changes into Milosh’s life. Having to go through separations, both on the personal and professional side (he had to part ways with Robin Hannibal, the second half of Rhye on the first album), he ended up with a lot of time on the road, testing new material during shows directly with his public.

"In the studio, I always have one or two people around me, and it is a very controlled and private space,” he explains. Even if he has total control over his songs, taking care of almost every aspect of their creations, he stays humble about the whole process.

“There was a song that I used to do live for a while. And even if I liked it a lot, it simply didn’t fit on the record, mostly because I wanted to keep the whole record forty minutes long. I obviously had to make some strong choices, otherwise, it would only be a mix of stuff that wouldn’t fit together. I honestly don’t know if some songs can only be heard live or in the studio. I simply think that when I play a song live, I have the freedom to change it a little bit and make them evolve regarding my mood.

I think that is very important that the live show kind of changes with the audience. If it is a quieter show, I can be more delicate with my vocals or be a little bit sentimental and emotional.

But once I am back in the studio, I can be whoever I want and have total freedom,” he explains.

“For me, a song is many different factors put together, allowing me to share something with others.

Otherwise, it could just be me singing in my shower. A song is almost like a little entity: a baby or some kind of life form. There are always things you need to put into it to nurture it. If you miss one of the ingredients, the song doesn’t feel complete. It is very important if you want a song to feel complete not to try to intellectualize it because when it is ready, you just know. It takes a lot of elements to make a song. It’s just not a simple thing, you know. There are a lot of skills involved and a big part of it is about understanding your own voice,” declares Milosh.

“In the end, what it comes to is, once I put a song out, I try not to be very controlling of how people [understand it]. I feel like the whole point is you put something out there in the public, and people are supposed to make it their own, they are supposed to experience the song. Also, I am never able to see all the people listening to my music, you know. So, I think it is very important for me to just let go and let people have their own experience with it. And if they want to see my songs on a different level or analyze them, they can. For me, when I listen to a song, I never really pay attention to the lyrics at first.

People have interpretation of my songs that weren’t mine at first, but I think it’s what is beautiful about it,” he adds.

There was a big leap of time between the release of Woman and

Specifically, he feels that sometimes songs work out better being heard live, not necessarily fitting into an album.

Speaking of his songs, he is pretty honest about using his personal experiences to channel his inspiration.

“I think I am at that place where everything I do now somehow makes me feel better. Even when a song sounds kind of sad, I still find a lot of beauty in it and enjoy it. I am at a good place in my life. I’ve been through a lot of changes, and I feel more solid than I used to be. I think it is so important that music is honest and comes from a real place, so that is why I never feel like I say too much or allow people to see too much of me when I open through my songs.

Music is a very important art form and it shouldn’t be watered down to make it a little bit less difficult to share. I am simply very careful about how much I let people know about my personal life, for example on social media. Even interviews, I don’t really overshare.

But when it comes to a song, I think it is important to focus on all the truth in it,” he declares.

“I was with a major label for the first record and they wanted to do all this PR and I was starting to feel like a product and couldn’t concentrate on the music. With Blood, I don’t mind showing my face and doing photoshoots. It was never about hiding before, but more about not feeling like a product. Now that I’ve played so many concerts and that people understand what Rhye is, I feel like I can promote songs that people want to hear. I made this one without a label,” he adds.

As a Canadian living in the USA in the political climate we are all so aware of, he obviously has to be confronted with a reality that can be hard at times, especially for someone having such a sensitive soul.

“Toronto will always feel like home, especially because my family is living there, and I like to be close to them.

But LA is now my home and where my people live. It can be sometimes a daunting city because you are always in a car… But I discover as I get older that it is about the personal relationship you want to have with a city and the people living there, about being around these people that you enjoy as human beings for different reasons.

Regarding the political climate, we know that nobody is really supporting Trump, but it doesn’t make it easier.

When you cross the border sometimes, they are kind of weird with you and it’s just a strange feeling, especially coming from Canada. There are things about it that are incredibly sad.

Just the way they treat the least fortunate living in their own country. It says a lot about that culture.”

“LA is like its own little bubble within the US it is a very different kind of situation. People who are not super wealthy have a lot of pressure on them. Even the healthcare almost feels like medieval at some point.

It adds more to the weight on your shoulders, even people that are in the middle class (pauses). I think in 2018, we should have a society that wants everyone to starts on a equal playing field. It is weird that almost everything important for the evolution of a human being is only for the elite in the USA. The only way to deal with it is to lead by example and try to be the best version of yourself.”

CARS

JAGUAR

PACE OF THE

Inspired by the success of Jaguars’ first SUV, the 2018 E-PACE crossover is the fun and confident younger brother who’s eager to please. Just like its predecessors, this vehicle is high and mighty in stature, giving you the experience of a true Jaguar with the practicality of an SUV.

By Aniseh Sharifi The exterior design of the E-PACE is built from Jaguar DNA and links key features from the F-TYPE while adding sportier characteristics such as the LED headlights, pronounced rear haunches, and creased front and rear fenders.

The unmistakable Jaguar look is created by the bold grill, chrome side vents, and overall muscular body definition, giving it a powerful stance and assertive look.

60

The interior of the R-Dynamic follows the stylish exterior with the premium Windsor leather with stitch seats, a console grabhandle, and a sports-style gear shifter.

Considering its height, the cabin is well composed even over major potholes and twists. Although the rear seat space is compact with a narrow door opening, the cargo space makes up for it.

Between the Core and R-Dynamic AWD models, the latter is the sportier version with the 2.0L 296 horsepower turbocharged engine and 295lb-ft of torque.

Comparable in its class with the Audi Q3/ Q5, MB GLA, or BMW X2/X3, the E-PACE is decorated with an impressive list of features to politely demonstrate its dedication to you: The Infotainment: The clutter-free cabin is equipped with a 10” touchscreen where you can access the climate control, sound system, phone connection, and navigation (voiced with an English accent).

The Advanced Driver Assistance System (ADAS): It includes all the technology that you would expect in this tamed beast: surround cameras, 360-degree Park Aid, Blind Spot Assist, Adaptive Cruise Control, and Lane Keep assist to name a few.

Fun Touches: The activity key is great if you’re the active type and carrying a key fob is not an option; this wearable, waterproof wristband is your access to your chariot. Other fun features are the “Jaguar Club” design on the windshield and puddle lamp projections.

In the city, you may need to make wider turns, but on the highway, your Jag will leap and take charge. Just like it’s price tag, it’s fuel consumption is on the higher end, but it’s an honest compromise if you’ll allow it to serve you and your grand life.

61

WITH neon HUES, ANIMAL PRINTS, AND BOLD layers, FALL IS FUN AND FASHIONABLE, but MOST of ALL, IT’S FUTURISTIC.

Photographer Carlyle Routh Fashion Editor Peter Papapetrou

Printed dress ($1,900) GIVENCHY at SAKS FIFTH AVENUE. Bracelets (Price Upon Request) CAROLE TANENBAUM. Jumpsuit (Price Upon Request) IZZY CAMILLERI.

Handbag ($4,800), Gloves ($1,725), and Necklace ($11,325) CHANEL.

This page: Blouse ($2,125), Earrings ($885), Flap Bag ($6,550), Boots ($2,725), and Sunglasses ($745) CHANEL. Opposite page: Jacket ($9,175), Skirt ($3,575), Belt ($2,800), and Earrings ($1,275) CHANEL.

This page: Jacket ($7,600) RODARTE at ARCHIVES TORONTO. Jumpsuit (Price Upon Request) IZZY CAMILLERI. Opposite page: Trench coat ($1,010) MARC JACOBS at SAKS FIFTH AVENUE. Shoes ($850) ALEXANDER WANG at THE ROOM. Jumpsuit (Price Upon Request) IZZY CAMILLERI.

Visor ($462) DIOR at ARCHIVES TORONTO. Necklace (Price Upon Request) CAROLE TANENBAUM. Sweater ($690) CELINE at SAKS FIFTH AVENUE. Skirt ($2,595) BALMAIN at THE ROOM. Jumpsuit (Price Upon Request) IZZY CAMILLERI. Photographer CARLYLE ROUTH. Fashion Editor PETER PAPAPETROU at PLUTINOGROUP. Makeup & Hair PACO PUERTAS at FOLIO using CHANEL. Model AGNES at NEXT MODELS. Assistant Fashion Editor EMMA BEATRIX.

CULTURE

ARTof FASHION

IRIS VAN

HERPEN Iris van Herpen is an artistic, creative, and daring fashion designer that has been taking the world by storm since 2007. The Toronto exhibit at the Royal Ontario Museum is a showstopper – an artistic experience you won’t want to miss.

By Jane Bradshaw

68

Many do not realize that behind the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, the ROM has the third largest costume and textile collection in the world.

In the past, they have showcased exhibitions like Christian Dior, Star Wars Gowns from Rodarte, Viva Mexico! Clothing and Culture, Worn: Shaping Black Feminine Identity, Fashion Follows Form: Designs for Sitting, and Viktor&Rolf Dolls, each of these exhibitions pulling artifacts from their own personal collection. Their latest installation, Transforming Fashion: Iris van Herpen, is not from the ROM’s collection, but actually showcases pieces from van Herpen’s runway shows as recent as 2015.

As curator Alexandra Palmer notes, fashion from the past ten years is just often looked at as old clothing rather than a part of history, but van Herpen’s designs are so extraordinary that they have become an exception to this linear mindset.

Iris van Herpen is no ordinary designer.

Her clothes go beyond fashion: they are art forms that work with materials like leather, acrylics, and plastics amongst more traditional fabric and are formed using age-old technologies (hand cutting, the sewing machine, glass blowing). While she is credited with creating the first 3D printed

“

I SEE WHYPEOPLE SEE the FUTURE ANDmodernity IN THE WORK,BUT I HOPE I CAN inspire THEM TO THINKOFTODAY AS Adifferent WORLD.

“

Every so often, a true genius breaks out into the fashion scene. They bring a sense of experimentation and adventure while creating some of the most exquisite avantgarde pieces that force the industry and the public alike to reimagine the definition of beauty. The two most prominent figures who revolutionized fashion of late were the two tortured souls coming out of the UK: Alexander McQueen and John Galliano.

With McQueen’s tragic passing and Galliano’s rapid fall from fame, fashion has been searching for the next bright talent to make history. Cue Iris van Herpen, a designer out of Amsterdam who has been pushing the boundaries of creativity since starting her own line in 2007. In 2015, she was recognized as one of the most promising fashion designers and solidified her place in history by having her own solo exhibit, called “Transforming Fashion,” which has made its way to Toronto’s Royal Ontario Museum for its final stop in its North American tour.

dress, most of her creations are made by hand, in-house, pushing the boundaries of creativity while staying true to the human form. She inspires the fashion world to open up the possibilities of how to think, dress, and make our most extraordinary imaginations visible.

Some may bring up the question of wearability – who would even wear these clothes? But these creations are not just clothes, they are art. Without designers like van Herpen, fashion would just be apparel, and what we wear would only be based on function. By distorting and playing with the natural human form by building avant-garde couture pieces, Iris van Herpen is able to transform our perception of ourselves and others.

Her shows are often known for her shoes, made in partnership with the New York brand United Nude, which will change the gait of how models walk, the sound someone makes when they walk in the room, and ultimately how you look. She truly opens our minds to think outside of the box when it comes to fashion. It’s no wonder fashion-forward fans like Solange Knowles and Lady Gaga continues to gravitate towards the designer for their on (and sometimes off) red-carpet looks.

At a recent talk with the fashion genius hosted by the ROM for its members and media alike, we learned more about the inspiration and work ethic of the designer to understand the inner workings of her mind.

69

70

Iris grew up a dancer but transcended into the fashion world as she got older as it was a place to combine her love of theatrics, art, and movement. She refers to the ethos of her work as craftsmanship, something that links both innovation and hard work. While her commitment to her craft limits her in terms of tools, she believes that this is the reason she continues to move forward. “There are many things that I am unable to do today that I may be doing in a few years, and I think that is why we continue.”

Her atelier focuses on the assembly of the designs, so much of the innovative fabrics and materials are actually made off-site and then brought into her studio.

There is never a plan though; van Herpen believes in trial and error and prefers to create her designs on the model or mannequin to preserve the beauty and humanity of each piece.

For those who think she is too futuristic, she notes, “I see why people see the future and modernity in the work, but I hope I can inspire them to think of today as a different world.” It is her intuitive process and abstract methods that produce a new perspective on today’s society and culture. She is able to incorporate technology like laser cutting or 3D printing – methods widely used in industrial scopes outside of fashion – to comment on what is currently occurring in our modern age.

You can see IRIS VAN HERPEN: TRANSFORMING FASHION and the complementing PHILIP BEESLEY: TRANSFORMING SPACE at the ROM until October 8th 2018 www.rom.on.ca/en/iris

To pair with the couture designs, the ROM has commissioned the work on one of Iris’ long-time collaborators, Canadian architect Philip Beesley. His installations change the way we engage with art and architecture, blurring the lines between nature and technology. His idea is to create “metabolic architecture,” where manmade structures can be seen as living things. The installation, known as Transforming Space, integrates architecture, engineering, and visual arts to create a luminous and interactive landscape. It combines four of the ten collaborations Beesley and van Herpen have worked together on over the years: Hybrid Holism (2012), Voltage (2013), Magnetic Motion (2014), and Hacking Infinity (2015).

The new exhibitions are a sight to be seen. They explore the endless possibilities that come from interweaving design, art, and technology. Whether or not you are interested in fashion, this new immersive display will take you on a captivating journey to shift your perspective of the world around us.

71

COVER STORY

Beautiful

INSIDE & OUT MEET ALINE WEBER - BRAZILIAN beauty with PIERCING JADE EYES, perfectly carved CHEEKBONES, and a SMOLDERING pout. We get PERSONAL with our FALL COVER SUPERMODEL about opening for BALENCIAGA and having just been a recent guest in an INDIGENOUS BRAZILIAN village.

In the small town of Seara, Santa Catarina, tucked away in the Brazilian countryside, supermodel Aline Weber recalls that “growing up in a small town was great.” A village with mostly inhabitants of German descent, including Weber and her family, she contributes her deeply-rooted love for nature to her youth. “I had a lot of contact with nature, especially when visiting my grandmother,” she recalls.

Photographer Rayan Ayash Creative Director Sylvain Blais Fashion Editor Tatiana Cinquino Text by Brenna Dixon 72

Top (Price Upon Request) VICTORIA HAYES.

This page: Patent leather coat (Price Upon Request) HUGO BOSS. Skirt (Price Upon Request) FENDI. Thigh-high Stockings (Price Upon Request) AGENT PROVOCATEUR. Necklace (Price Upon Request) ALEXANDER WANG. Opposite page: Collar and Dress (Prices Upon Request) VICTORIA HAYES. Earrings (Price Upon Request) BONHEUR JEWELRY.

This page: Blouse ($2,125), Earrings ($885), Flap Bag ($6,550), Boots ($2,725), and Sunglasses ($745) CHANEL. Opposite page: Jacket ($9,175), Skirt ($3,575), Belt ($2,800), and Earrings ($1,275) CHANEL.

Fast forwarding from the small southern region of Brazil to today, Aline has definitely lived an extremely unconventional life from that of her youth. Opening for Balenciaga in Paris, she notes that the particular event “made my career shift.” Her supermodel career quickly unfolded as she strut the runways for Calvin Klein and Marc Jacobs. She has been photographed by Inez and Vinoodh and graced the covers of magazines from Japan to the US. She also debuted on the silver screen as an icy blonde literature student in Tom Ford’s A Single Man. With such an internationally impressive resume, she reflects, “Modelling made me grow in a way I couldn’t imagine. I’ve seen so many countries and met so many people. It helped me build an imaginative, creative, and intuitive side in me that I didn’t realize I had. I am thankful for that.” As the life of a supermodel does indeed sound glamorous on a plethora of levels, she admits that the job comes with certain obstacles, and that “the most difficult part is not knowing what job or where I am flying to next.”

“

us as we want. We have all the power if we just stop and listen.” Emphasizing the importance of appreciating our surroundings, Aline has become a strong advocate for the environment.

Unfortunately, global environment issues are worse: waste, pollution, global warming, the negative impact of fast fashion, and more. Aline’s viewpoint on ecological preservation rings loud and clear and encourages others to do the same: “we all can be eco warriors starting at home with little things like reducing plastic consumption, separating the trash, turning the lights off. We as human beings should start caring more for our planet.” Leading by example, Weber has discontinued wearing fur. “I strongly believe we all have values and priorities, and that we can always put that to good use in life, in general,” she explains regarding her anti-fur decision. As she stands firm with her environmental positioning, she explains that there have been repercussions regarding her vantage point. “There are always consequences when we decide to stand for something,” she notes. Consequences in Aline’s world can cause rifts in the industry and in fact she admits that due to her choice against fur, “there is a lot of explaining, some criticism, and cancelled jobs, but I strongly believe that we have to stand for what we believe in, and those consequences are going to be there no matter what - so why not just fight for what you believe?”

With such a demanding career and compelling lifestyle, she remains grounded by seeking balance: “I think balance is very important in life. I try to blend my career with my lifestyle whenever I can,” she reflects on her reasoning to boycott fur, maintaining linearity regarding her integrity and loyalty to the environment.

MODELLING made MEGROWIN A WAYI COULDN’T imagine. I’VE SEEN SO MANYcountries AND MET SO MANYpeople. IT helped ME BUILD AN IMAGINATIVE, CREATIVE, AND intuitive SIDE INME...

Alto do Xingu is located in the south of the Amazon biome and is home to Indigenous people of Brazil located along the Xingu River. The Xingu people are representative of fifteen different tribes and all four of Brazil’s language groups. Aline was a guest for nearly a week, explaining that she “slept in a hammock and showered in the river.” Not what you would expect from such a glamorous model. Driven by her connection to nature, she reveals that her stay with the Xingu “made me see life in a simpler way and appreciate the little things that we take for granted. We can be as much connected to this planet and everything around

“

Despite the curve balls thrown by the industry, she remains incredibly down-to-earth. When she isn’t racing against the clock to catch the next flight out, she enjoys practicing yoga, Pilates, and meditation, spending time in nature, and seeing friends. As relatable as Aline’s life sounds during her downtime, the 5’10” beauty with legs for days just stepped out of Alto do Xingu in Brazil- and it wasn’t for a photoshoot.

As an icon for young women to stand up to evoke change, Aline remains incredibly humble, stating that “I’m very happy I can have a career and lifestyle that I love.”

Phenomenally beautiful inside and out, she leaves us with a glance into the future: “I have no idea where I will be in five years, but I do hope to be close to nature and that we will all be more loving and caring towards one another and especially towards our beautiful planet.”

Dress (Price Upon Request) GUCCI. Earrings (Price Upon Request) BONHEUR JEWELRY. Nylons (Price Upon Request) AGENT PROVOCATEUR. Pumps (Price Upon Request) MICHAEL KORS.

This page: Dress (Price Upon Request) VICTORIA HAYES. Boots (Price Upon Request) HERMÈS. Opposite page: Top and skirt (Prices Upon Request) VICTORIA HAYES Photographer RAYAN AYASH at DUNE STUDIOS. Creative Director SYLVAIN BLAIS. Fashion Editor TATIANA CINQUINO at JUDY INC. Makeup SABRINA RINALDI at P1M.ca and THE PROJECT using IT COSMETICS. Hair STEVEN TURPIN at TEAMM MGMT using R+CO. Model ALINE WEBER at NEW YORK MODEL MANAGEMENT.

This page: Dress ($15,275), Lace-up ($1,130), and Tights ($300) CHANEL. Opposite page: Gloves ($1,725), Necklace ($11,325), and Flap Bag ($6,550) CHANEL. Photographer ERICK FAULKNER. Fashion Editor FRITZ. Makeup & Hair PACO PUERTAS at FOLIO using CHANEL. Model TORI MONET at WILHELMINA MODELS. Assistant phographer STACY LEE.

Canadian

I

SPECIAL

Our country has a phenomenal music scene and fantastic sports teams. We are known for our multiculturalism and for embracing expression, from dance to the Toronto Film Festival. So why isn’t Canada on the fashion map?

We conducted extensive interviews with a variety of individuals to reveal exactly what our industry is lacking, how we measure up, and hopes for a brighter future.

By Brenna Dixon

Taking into consideration a diverse range of factors from personal experience to cultural background, gauging accomplishment differs from one person to the next. Is it safe to say that in some industries, success is measured if you achieve certain benchmarks? As a fashion journalist, is my work really relevant if I haven’t been featured in Vogue? Have designers really made it when their creations aren’t framed within the glossy pages of world famous publications? Isn’t it all about meeting quotas, being featured during Paris Fashion week, and afterparty selfies with Jared Leto?

In this grand exposé, we feature exclusive insight provided by some of our favorite creative Canadians. We inquired about their personal experiences, career paths, their positioning in the Canadian marketplace, and the current state of the industry. A diverse range of realities are revealed from established designers, educators, and key players shedding light on the Canadian fashion industry.

The Reality of Fashion Today

Living in such a hyper-globalized state, we are all so seemingly connected, operating vicariously through a virtual world: a synthesized (and often exaggerated) version of our best self (aka “living my best life”).

We are constantly looking, commenting, comparing to what is going on around us, whatever the industry. There is a cross-market shift due to the massive millennial generation altering perceptions and practices across a multitude of societal components.

This is a group of people who are extremely diverse yet all intensely connected. In 2017, it was “estimated that millennials in the U.S. alone [would] be spending $200 billion,” and by this year, in 2018, it was expected that millennials would have the most spending power of any generation (Forbes, How to Tap into the Millennial $200 Billion Buying Power with Social Media). It is this generation who has already begun to re-write the rules and have brands

“

“

State of Canadian Fashion

SOME say THAT THE MEASURE OF SUCCESS IS RELATIVE.

on a global scale re-calculating their strategies and re-evaluating their brand DNA.

With technology advancing so rapidly in a highly-visual realm of interconnectivity, the fashion industry in particular is now viewed in a whole new light.

New age professions have emerged out of evolved communication channels: influencers, bloggers, and streetstyle photographers have indefinitely changed the fashion game. The system of the past and the industry “elite” have experienced a shake-up in the face of modernity. Infamous fashion capitals and internationally-renowned brands have adapted and included alternative modes of communication in order to maintain relevance in the marketplace. Heritage brands have discovered ways to stay top-of-mind, embracing everything from new designers to consulting with groups of millennials on the daily.

Changes across the fashion landscape have been unavoidable. Print media, for example, the once imperious force in fashion has suffered a major decline: even critically-acclaimed American Vogue went through a bout of layoffs this year (with rumors circling of Anna Wintour’s exit), and most recently, W Magazine was reported to be sold. With the imminent changes on the rise and with social media bringing connectivity to an all time high, the major fashion hubs of Milan, London, Paris, and New York remain steadfast beacons of style. As Canadians, we ask why and where do we fall short in the fashion industry.

Designer

DENIS GAGNON Photographer Lily & Lilac Fashion Editor Randy Smith

This page: Jane Coat ($1,200), Rebecca Pants ($450), Annie Skirt ($600), Mia Bag ($750), and Heart Necklace ($250) DENIS GAGNON. Shoes ($2,035) GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI at BROWNS. Hat (Price Upon Request) LILLIPUT HATS. Opposite page: Lucille Top ($700), Marie Pant ($600), and Victoria Bag ($800) DENIS GAGNON. Hat (Price Upon Request) LILLIPUT HATS.

We started from the beginning, asking designers:

WHY THEY DECIDED TO START THEIR OWN BRAND:

HAD SOMETHING “ITO TELL, AND I WANTED TO DO IT DIFFERENTLY THAN A BOOK OR A MOVIE.

”

Markantoine Designer

I COULDN’T FIND AN “INTERESTING JOB. ” Duy

“

I COULD NOT STOP THINKING ABOUT IT, SO I JUST DID IT.

Tara Barnes

Ellie Mae

Designer

”

VP Marketing, Manitobah Mukluks

PRODUCT “WETHE WANTED TO PROPOSE DIDN’T EXIST HERE. ” Tavan & Mitto Designer

“

I NEEDED TO PUT MYSELF IN A SITUATION WHERE I WAS RESPONSIBLE FROM START TO FINISH.

MANITOBAH MUKLUKS WAS FOUNDED BY MÉTIS ENTREPRENEUR SEAN MCCORMICK IN 1997.

I GOT INVOLVED WITH THE MARKETING ABOUT 8 YEARS AGO BECAUSE I BELIEVED IN HIS VISION: TO BUILD A VIBRANT GLOBAL BRAND THAT COULD MAKE A SIGNIFICANT IMPACT IN INDIGENOUS COMMUNITIES.

“

MINIMALISM & UNIFORMITY, I FOUND WAS VERY POPULAR IN CANADA WHEN I CAME HERE. SO, I WANTED TO BRING A LITTLE BIT MORE OF A FUN, FLAVOURFUL COLLECTION FOR WOMEN.

”

”

Camilla James

Designer & Owner, The Saltwater Collective

“

”

Designer

“TOI WANTED CREATE

BEAUTIFUL CLOTHES AND TO EXPRESS MY INNER CREATIVITY. Kirk Pickersgill

”

Designer & Co-Owner, Greta Constantine

Lucian Matis Designer

FRIEND ASKED ME TO MAKE HER A LEATHER JACKET, SO I DID. FROM THERE, “ASOME OF HER FRIENDS WANTED ONE, AND THEN THEIR FRIENDS STARTED INQUIRING, AND SO ON AND SO FORTH. ONCE I HAD A PRETTY STRONG ‘WAITLIST’, I BEGAN TO REALIZE I WAS ONTO SOMETHING AND HAD TAPPED INTO A MARKET. ” Rosa Halpern

Designer, Namesake

“

“

I probably HAD A GREAT EGO THAT NEEDED SOME recognition; TODAY,I DON’T HAVE THIS NEED ANYMORE. Denis Gagnon (Designer)

Lily Dress ($700), and Naomia Coat ($600) DENIS GAGNON. Hat (Price Upon Request) LILLIPUT HATS.

Louise Pants ($450), Clara Bag ($600), Elena Dress ($750), and Julia Top ($500) DENIS GAGNON. Boots ($100) ALDO. Headpieces (Special Order, Price Upon Request) LILLIPUT HATS.

WHAT ARE THE BIGGEST CHALLENGES THAT YOU FACE ON A DAILY BASIS?

“

BEING A SMALL BUSINESS AND THE MAIN PERSON RESPONSIBLE FOR ALL TASKS, IT CAN SOMETIMES BE DIFFICULT TO STAY FOCUSED AS INTERRUPTIONS ARE NUMEROUS; FUNDING; AND CONNECTIONS TO THE RIGHT PEOPLE. Markantoine

”

Designer

HIRING MORE STAFF, “TIME, AND AMERICAN RETAILERS COMING IN.” Kirk Pickersgill

Designer & Co-Owner, Greta Constantine

“

BOUTIQUES, COLLECTIONS, ORDERS - I MEAN, IT’S VERY DEMANDING TO HAVE 85 DIFFERENT STORES AND TO BE FOLLOWING UP WITH THEM.

”

TO GET KNOWN - WE “KNEW WE HAD THE

“

WE NEEDED ACCESS TO GLOBAL SUPPLY CHAINS, CAPITAL, AND EXPERTISE THAT SIMPLY WASN’T ACCESSIBLE. ONE OF THE FIRST MAJOR HURDLES WAS GETTING INTO RETAIL CHANNELS THAT HADN’T SOLD MUKLUKS BEFORE. WE HAD TO CONVINCE THEM THAT IT WAS THE WARMEST AND MOST COMFORTABLE WINTER BOOT FOR THEIR CUSTOMERS, THE ORIGINAL WINTER BOOT.

”

Tara Barnes

VP Marketing, Manitobah Mukluks

Lucian Matis

PRODUCT AND OUR PRICES WERE VERY COMPETITIVE FOR READY-TO-WEAR, BUT TO GET YOUR PRODUCT/ NAME OUT THERE, IT IS REALLY DIFFICULT. IT’S ALSO HARD TO KEEP YOUR CLIENTELE’S LOYALTIES.

”

Tavan & Mitto Designer

- MY MANY HATS “TIME KEEP ME BUSY.” Andrew Majtenyi Designer

“

NOBODY CARES ABOUT CANADIAN BRANDS, EXCEPT FOR CANADA GOOSE. IT’S DIFFICULT TO FIND GOOD SEAMSTRESSES, A VERY GOOD PATTERNMAKER, AND MONEY.

”

Duy

Designer

Designer

“

THE FACT THAT THERE ARE ONLY 24 HOURS IN A DAY? WE ARE A SMALL TEAM, SO WE COULD WORK AROUND THE CLOCK AND STILL HAVE THINGS TO ACCOMPLISH. WE’RE AN ENTRY LEVEL DESIGNER BRAND AND TRY TO MAKE OUR PRICE POINTS AFFORDABLE WHILST MAINTAINING QUALITY AND DESIGNER FABRICATION. IT’S TOUGH..

”

Hayley Elsaesser Designer

This page: Louisa Top ($450), Gaëlle Hoodie ($800), Alix Pants ($450), and Laura Bag ($550) DENIS GAGNON. Shoes ($498) MIMOSA at BROWNS. Hat (Price Upon Request) LILLIPUT HATS. Opposite page: Luna Coat ($1,400), Sylvia Pant ($500), Iris Skirt ($600), Celine Top ($350), and Shoes (Price Upon Request) DENIS GAGNON. Hat (Price Upon Request) LILIPUT HATS. Sunglasses (Price Upon Request) EDITORIAL. Photographer LILY & LILAC at JUDY INC. Fashion Editor RANDY SMITH at JUDY INC. Makeup & Hair STEVEN TURPIN at TEAMM MGMT using NARS, KÉRASTASE, and SHU UEMURA. Model KELLY ANNE B at PUBLIC IMAGE. Assistant Stylist JULIA DEBARTOLO.

Leaving Canada to Succeed In 2005, I left Toronto to satiate a desire instilled in me from a young age. I studied fine arts throughout high school right through university with the unfortunate looming reality that “art doesn’t put food on the table.” Before graduating from my BA, I had already applied to master’s programs abroad. In 2006, I graduated with an MA in Fashion Marketing from a prestigious school in Milan, made famous for alumni such as Maria Grazia Chiuri, the first woman to lead the ateliers and design teams of Christian Dior, and Pierpaolo Piccioli, the Creative Director of Valentino.

After over ten years of living and working throughout Europe in the fashion industry, I decided to return to Canada (a decision due to circumstance rather than will). I had a desire to experience fashion on a deeply-rooted cultural level, and I felt that Canada just wasn’t the place. The Business of Fashion founder Imran Amed summed it up best as quoted in Coveteur: “You have the major leagues and the junior leagues. Canada is not in the major leagues of fashion" (Here’s What’s Actually Going on with the Canadian Fashion Industry).

I wanted to play in the majors, with the best. I personally chose not to remain in Canada, as I believed that the art form of fashion, garments, and creation had to be studied in one of the birthplaces of the craft. Besides the plethora of iconic designers and creative minds from the country, Italy was the location I was sure that would educate me properly and allow me to fill my cultural luggage until bursting at the seams. Italians have a profound love of all things beautiful, a trait so heavily instilled in their culture from cuisine and taste to architecture, that it has become an essential way of life. As Fausto Puglisi explained so poetically

90

in our summer issue, the importance of dressing up is part of “respecting the people you meet” in Italian culture. In a nutshell, I left Canada because I felt there was a lack of expertise in the fashion industry.

Surely, there are a variety of reasons why Canadians leave the country in order to satisfy not only academic needs but also for professional experience and cultural curiosities as well; as for myself, I left in pursuit of all three. The situation with young talent and curious minds moving abroad in order to satisfy needs in the fashion industry is a hot topic for Canada.

“I think all creators should go somewhere else - there is no market here,” stated designer Denis Gagnon. Not only are creative minds leaving, but many don’t return. Lucian Matis emphasized the need for craftsmanship and that Canada is lacking in dexterity pertaining to master sewers and master pattern makers. He continued by recounting his own experience in the Canadian fashion education system: “[The Director of Fashion at Ryerson University] told me that half of my collection was completely cancelled because I [couldn’t] ‘steal the fashion show from the other students’… and I said, ‘This is my moment to actually shine and show the industry what I can do’…

I had a story to tell, but I wasn’t even allowed to tell my story properly. And when I freaked out, they said that I [was] crazy.” Matis exposes a harsh reality and glimpse into homeland education and support.

The lack of knowhow in any field is obviously extremely frustrating and limiting, causing those in pursuit of knowledge to look elsewhere. The impression that “fashion is glamorous and fabulous is a mediocre perception for what makes the industry attractive as a career, especially considering all the opportunities in fashion that are stereotypically not glamorous,

like sewing or pattern drafting,” Designer and Founder & Artistic Director of Indigenous Fashion Week Toronto Sage Paul astutely noted. Paul elaborated further that “those deeply committed to working in fashion are drawn to the industry as it provides a form of expression” (as opposed to its inherent luxury or glamour). Both Matis and Paul observed that Canada is lacking a portion of the fashion pipeline pertaining to craftsmanship and production: pattern making, marking, cutting, and sewing.

Careers within the fashion industry are plentiful; however, in order to collectively address our industry needs, there must be viable options for learning at a scholastic level and rebuilding the desirability of pattern making and sewing. The future players of the sector need to be aware of all the career possibilities within the sector in order to create a solid foundation for the industry.

Despite setbacks, Canada is a rapidly evolving young country, and the fashion industry has definitely blossomed, having cultivated a variety of talents. A handful of brands have brought their names to international levels by penetrating the iconic fashion hubs abroad. Beaufille, Greta Constantine, Christopher Bates, and Tanya Taylor have all gained global recognition, and for many brands, acknowledgement away from home still signifies “you’ve made it.” For a vast majority, our country serves as a great brand incubator. “Canada is an amazing platform to launch a brand,” explained Rosa Halpern from the custom leather brand Namesake. Recognized as a fertile breeding ground, many who have begun their creative pursuits in this country do agree.

What’s Stopping Us?

As the pros all weigh heavily on the quality of life in Canada with specific emphasis on being a great environment for start-ups, the cons of the fashion industry

What does a lack of industry really equate to? Many do believe, that what lack of industry means, is a general disinterest in fashion. The idea of “function vs. fashion” is a reality in Canada. Fashion itself is expression, an extension of art, craftsmanship, history, and so much more – could we essentially narrow the big picture down to culture? The art form of ‘dressing’, ‘first impressions’, and self-representation are perhaps not considered as important here as they are in places like Italy. Can we presume that fashion hubs like Paris, Milan, London, and even New York view personal style in the utmost regard - a reflection of your character? Dressing oneself in these particular places in the world are associated with career, social status, personal good taste, and more. Canada just doesn’t seem to be the place for this. The niche who do embrace fashion are limited to what is presented to them. From a consumer standpoint, the options are constrained. Naturally then, if the fashion niche is unable to satiate their style hunger, they simply look elsewhere (online retailers, shopping when abroad, etc.).

However, designers Tavan & Mitto made the observation that “it’s not a Canadian problem, it’s a money problem. The fashion industry is a big money game and it’s hard for all niche brands (in any country).”

With the amount of information thrown at consumers daily, the Canadian marketplace is miniscule in respect to the international fashion community, and the reality of consumers looking ‘elsewhere’ to satisfy needs is common practice.

Shifting our concentration from within,

“

I believe WE NEED TO FIND WAYS AS A NATION TO encourage OUR CANADIAN CONSUMERS TODISCOVER & SUPPORT OUR up-and-coming DESIGNERS.

“

seem to be a more significant reality that many designers face. “There isn’t a ton of industry here,” notes Camilla James, Designer and Owner of swimwear brand Saltwater Collective.

Vicky Milner, Co-Founder of CAFA

one thing is blatantly obvious here and around the world: “The Canadian market is being infiltrated by big international retailers and while all of that product diversity is good for shoppers, it’s not necessarily good for our industry,” points out Susan Langdon from the Toronto Fashion Incubator. A global issue at hand, for the little guys this reality makes manufacturing, labor, and workers even harder to employ. Difficulties for any start-ups or local businesses then seriously struggle to compete to create their products, never mind the marketing and communication portion.

Besides creating immense difficulty for smaller businesses, the fast fashion conundrum not only is killing our environment worldwide, but it has tapped into this sense of constant turnover which makes it seem that we can no longer live without things moving ‘fast’. Fashion is a way to present who we are, what we are feeling, and how we want to be perceived

in the moment. We live in such a visual world where “Instagram has more than 1 billion active users now… and [is] predicted to generate $5.5 billion in US ad revenue this year,” according to Forbes (How Instagram is Eating the World). Fast fashion seems to be quite fitting for a world that functions around immediacy.

Former fashion designer turned teacher and mentor, Milan Tanedjikov, commented that “the industry has completely transformed and it continues to evolve rapidly. Delocalization, fast fashion, overproduction, pollution, and the shift from offline to online retail have proven to be very disruptive.” Disruptive indeed. Whether a garment lasts more than one evening, two parties, or two years, we are emotionally detached and give little value to what we are buying because there will be another party tomorrow that will require a new party dress - the cycle just continues. Do we really need to consume constantly? No, obviously not. However, today more than ever, we are consuming beyond belief. Garments at one point were beautifully crafted to last years.

Today, the price, quality, and trends are moving at blinding speeds that we feel compelled to maintain the rhythm… Oh, and to take a phenomenal selfie.

However, the industry is not solely to blame, as fashion designer and teacher Ying Gao noted as well that “the consumer should be ready to buy (a lot) less by paying (a lot) more for quality and sustainable products.” Particularly, Canadians seem reluctant to buy Canadian brands where clothes are made and produced in Canada. We need to begin now, to change our buying behaviour. We need to re-discover long-term relations to the products we purchase. In order to create such a shift in buying behaviour, we need to look at all the mechanisms involved.

91

MAXIMUM OVERDRIVE Photographer Genevieve Charboneau Fashion Editor Randy Smith

On Shayna: Blue Sequined Jumper (Price Upon Request) GRETA CONSTANTINE. Necklace ($195) ROCK ‘N KARMA. Biker Hat (Price Upon Request) NORTHBOUND LEATHER. Leather gloves ($395) UNCUFFED. Jerirewia Boots in White ($140) ALDO. On the men: James Men’s Leather Jeans ($357) LAMARQUE. Belts (Prices Upon Request) NORTH BOUND LEATHER.

This page: Silver Beads Dress ($185) and I Will Never Stop Netting Tee 450 ROCK ‘N KARMA. Vest (Price Upon Request) GRETA CONSTANTINE. Biker Hat (Price Upon Request) NORTHBOUND LEATHER. Opposite page: On Shayna: Snakeskin Print Jacket ($2,645) MIKHAEL KALE. Leather sweatpants with Lambskin and Cowhide contrasts ($395) VANDAL. Boots ($109.99) CALL IT SPRING. On the men: James Men’s Leather Jeans ($357) LAMARQUE. Hats and Belts (Prices Upon Request) NORTHBOUND LEATHER.

This page: On Shayna: Diamonds Are Dress ($495) and Reverse Skirt Dress ($395) ROCK ‘N KARMA. Sequined Thigh High Boots (Price Upon Request) GRETA CONSTANTINE. Opposite page: On Shayna: “Joanne” White Fringe and Studded Jacket ($2,750) NAMESAKE. Skirt ($1,445) MIKHAEL KALE. Necklace (Price Upon Request) NORTH BOUNDLEATHER. On the men: James Men’s Leather Jeans ($357) and Esme Women’s Leather Jeans with Knew Sleets ($745) LAMARQUE. Hats and Belts (Prices Upon Request) NORTHBOUND LEATHER.

WHAT ARE THE BIGGEST EXPENSES FOR YOU? RENT ISN’T CHEAP IN “ TORONTO, BUT WE USE OUR STORE AS A DISTRIBUTION CENTRE, OFFICE, AND PHOTO STUDIO, SO IT IS A NECESSARY EXPENSE. ONLINE ADVERTISING IS VERY EXPENSIVE TOO.

”

Hayley Elsaesser Designer

“

RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT, FASHION DESIGN, AND TEXTILES.

”

Markantoine Designer

INVEST “WEINHEAVILY TWO THINGS:

INCREDIBLE FABRICS FOR OUR CLOTHES AND GOOD PEOPLE FOR OUR BUSINESS. AND WE’RE HOPEFUL THOSE TWO THINGS ARE THE MAGIC RECIPE FOR OUR SUCCESS.

”

Ellie Mae Designer

LARGEST EXPENSE “THE IS PERSONAL TIME. THE MOST “EXPENSIVE

PART OF OUR BUSINESS IS CREATING ENOUGH INVENTORY TO MEET DEMAND. WE MAKE MUKLUKS OUT OF EXPENSIVE NATURAL MATERIALS, SO EACH PAIR COSTS REAL MONEY TO CREATE, STORE, AND SHIP. WE ALSO TAKE GOOD CARE OF OUR STAFF IN AN INDUSTRY THAT ISN’T KNOWN FOR IT. WE HAVE INSANELY HIGH EMPLOYEE RETENTION!

”

DESIGNING REQUIRES A TOTAL DEDICATION TO YOUR CRAFT, SO THE MAJORITY OF MY PERSONAL TIME HAS BEEN DEDICATED TO THE LABEL.

”

Stephen Caras Designer

“

FABRICS, CUT/SEW SHOP RENTALS, COSTS OF RUNNING A BUSINESS, AND COUNCIL TAXES.

”

Andrew Majtenyi Designer

“A GOOD SEAMSTRESS.” Duy

Designer

Tara Barnes

VP Marketing, Manitobah Mukluks

“STAFF.” Kirk Pickersgill

Designer & Co-Owner, Greta Constantine

Coat (Price Upon Request) GRETA CONSTANTINE. Necklace ($325) ROCK ‘N KARMA. Biker Hat and Latex Stockings (Prices Upon Request) NORTHBOUND LEATHER. Wiema Boots ($130) ALDO.

On Shayna: Ruffle Gown ($4,995) LUCIAN MATIS. Black Studded Leather Jacket ($1,500) NAMESAKE. Biker Hat (Price Upon Request) NORTHBOUND LEATHER. Necklace ($145) JENNY BIRD. On the men: James Men’s Leather Jeans ($357) and Esme Women’s Leather Jeans with Knew Sleets ($745) LAMARQUE. Hats and Belts (Prices Upon Request) NORTHBOUND LEATHER.

On Shayna: Pink Sequined Romper (Price Upon Request) GRETA CONSTANTINE. Biker Hat (Price Upon Request) NORTHBOUND LEATHER. Thigh High Boots ($109.99) CALL IT SPRING. On the men: James Men’s Leather Jeans ($357) and Esme Women’s Leather Jeans with Knew Sleets ($745) LAMARQUE. Hats and Belts (Prices Upon Request) NORTHBOUND LEATHER.

HOW CAN WE MAKE FASHION MORE SUSTAINABLE? THE FABRICS WE “USE ARE WOVEN

“

WE LOOK AT OUR SOURCING ETHICALLY. THE FASHION INDUSTRY ON THE WHOLE IS NOT AT ALL SUSTAINABLE ENVIRONMENTALLY.

”

Hayley Elsaesser Designer

I LIKE TO BELIEVE “THAT EVERYONE

CARES ABOUT THE ENVIRONMENT, BUT THE COST ASSOCIATED WITH BEING SUSTAINABLE IS WHAT IS SLOWING DOWN THE NECESSARY CHANGE. IT’S IMPORTANT THAT SUSTAINABILITY IS SEEN AS A JOURNEY, WHICH SHOULD BE COMPLETED AS QUICKLY AS POSSIBLE,

BY ADAPTING ONE PART OF YOUR BUSINESS AT A TIME.

”

Brittany McBain

Fashion Marketing Strategist, Laso Strategy

FROM ECONYL® YARN, REGENERATED FROM PRE- AND POST-CONSUMER NYLON WASTE THAT WOULD OTHERWISE BE ABANDONED IN NATURE OR DUMPED IN LANDFILLS. WE HAVE ALSO IMPLEMENTED SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING. ALL OF OUR GARMENTS COME IN A SWIM BAG, WHICH IS MADE OF THE SAME MATERIAL AS THE SWIMSUIT ITSELF!

”

Camilla James

Designer & Owner, The Saltwater Collective

“

I ONLY DO CUSTOM, SO THERE’S NO WASTE OR ENVIRONMENTAL ABUSE. ACCESSIBLE PRICING MEANS NO SUSTAINABILITY, NO ENVIRONMENTAL CONSIDERATION.

”

Duy

Designer

“

WE NEVER ORDER MORE THAN WE NEED. WE REUSE ALL FABRICS IN AS MANY WAYS AS POSSIBLE TO GET THE MOST OUT OF ANY FABRIC WE’RE PURCHASING.

”

Ellie Mae Designer

BRANDS CAN BE MORE “ENVIRONMENTALLY

FRIENDLY BY: CREATING LESS WASTE; USING TEXTILES AND MATERIALS YOU KNOW THE SOURCE OF (WHERE THE COTTON COMES FROM, WHERE THE SHEEP LIVED, THE HUNTER OF THAT RABBIT, WHAT DYES ARE USED); BUILD A LOCAL, TRUSTWORTHY TEAM FROM FARM TO STUDIO TO CONSUMER; AND BUY LOCALLY.

”

Sage Paul

Designer, Founder & Artistic Director of Indigenous Fashion Week Toronto

This page: Blue Sequined Jumper (Price Upon Request) GRETA CONSTANTINE. Necklace ($195) ROCK ‘N KARMA. Biker Hat (Price Upon Request) NORTHBOUND LEATHER. Opposite page: On Shayna: Snakeskin Print Jacket ($2,645) MIKHAEL KALE. Leather Sweatpants with Lambskin and Cowhide Contrasts ($395) VANDAL. Boots ($109.99) CALL IT SPRING. On the men: James Men’s Leather Jeans ($357) LAMARQUE. Hats and Belts (Prices Upon Request) NORTHBOUND LEATHER. Photographer GENVIEVE CHARBONNEAU. Fashion Editor RANDY SMITH at JUDY INC. Makeup & hair STEVEN TURPIN at TEAMM MGMT using NARS, LAURA MERCIER, SHU UEMURA, and KÉRASTASE. Models SHAYNA MCNEIL at PLUTINO, ALEX TUCKER and BASS GAGNÉ at DULCEDO, and ELIOT at MONTAGE MODELS. Assistant Stylists LAUREN WALKER LEE & EMMANUELLE NERON. Assistant Makeup & Hair GENVIEVE HARDY.

Advertising and Social Media

The infiltrating fast fashion isn’t the sole culprit for disinterest in Canadian brands.

In today’s hyper-technological world there has been a colossal shift in purchasing power, buying behaviors, and attitudes towards having caused companies to begin (if they already haven’t done so) to create omni-channel, multilayered strategies. Brands at all stages of their business models have emphasized the importance of innovative modes of storytelling, adapting to social media selling, and more.

Catering to this tech-savvy generation is key, as well as proposing challenges on maintaining relevance in a marketplace with such an incredibly quick turnover.

For brands today, establishing a relevant brand DNA applicable to their consumer’s life stage has even begun to change the fundamentals of marketing (say goodbye to the old school demographical silos). With such paramount movements occurring, it’s laughable to even consider that “one of the best ways to get public attention is to have your products featured in a segment on popular TV shows such as Cityline, Marylin Denis, or Breakfast Television,” as mentioned by Susan Langdon who further explained that the cost implications are relatively low and the potential viewership being upwards of almost 800K per month.

As great as being on TV sounds, some key information missing. There is a need to be more critical with advice given, as it is essential to obtain more granular information like: Who are the viewers?

What are their online behaviors? Is this channel of communication relevant to my band DNA, target market, and brand marketing strategy? Does that audience actually generate any kind of measurable Return on Investment (ROI) (depending on what your Key Performance Indicators (KPIs) are, would the audience of Breakfast Television increase your follower base on IG for example?). With the evident industry changes that are unfolding in this digital era, the suggestion of being on Breakfast Television, Marylin Dennis, or the like equates to new brand enthusiasm being deflated like air seeping slowly out of a punctured balloon. These types of marketing/communication/promotional advertising advice and decisions are common misconceptions and malpractices in

Canada. Such examples, again make us wonder, how are the so-called business experts/mentors guiding fashion students and properly supplying them with the adequate tools to: run a company, formulate a business plan, create a marketing strategy, seek out investors, understand distribution channels (and more) in order to run a successful business.

The serious dose of reality is that designers, stylists, visual merchandisers, whatever the field, we are all quite informed and even though it’s cute that your granny and her friends saw you on TV, it definitely isn’t giving you a cool factor, spreading brand awareness to the right individuals, and any kind of ROI is questionable (depending of course if you are selling something that appeals to the millennial generation).

“The key is being able to evaluate how a new technology, social media platform, or feature will elevate your brand and help you achieve your goals, rather than doing something for the sake of doing it,” stated Camilla James, Designer and Owner of The Saltwater Collective.

For brands to be interesting to their desired demographics, they have to be applied to the correct mediums, speak the language, and be relevant (and so much more) in order to captivate their audience in such a crowded marketplace. Perhaps adding in such TV shows as an extension to your brand’s communication strategy could be a plus but should definitely not be at the core of your marketing strategy when we live in the age of social media.

Media Influence

Living in such a highly technological state has not only altered the fashion industry, but the media has also witnessed ground–shaking transformations. From the decline of print to how and where we absorb the daily news has all changed drastically over a brief amount of time. As the negative aspects to the industry are apparent, it is also easy enough to note that perceptions can be swayed through the media, by choosing what we want to communicate and promote. The fashion industry in general is quite well-known for certain mega media brands monopolizing the landscape - think Vogue, Elle, and Harper’s Bazaar in the publishing

world. All things style and everything new pertaining to the fashion sector was found within the pages of particular publishers. Journalists and fashion ‘experts’ had a great deal of power and prestige, who were courted accordingly by those hoping for brand exposure and to spread brand awareness. Let’s be reminded, that this has changed: smaller publications are gaining traction. “Dress to Kill was founded on the basis of being an exemplary platform for Canadian brands,” stated the publication Co-Founder, Kathia Cambron. As a Canadian magazine founded on the philosophy of highlighting local talent, “We were kind of pushed to create Dress to Kill magazine. We had no place to be, no one was giving us a chance.

We wanted to produce content outside of the industry’s required format - we wanted to do something else,” Cambron stated. Dress to Kill serves as a looking glass into what we are cultivating at home. “One of the big problems is that people are not willing to work together there is a massive lack of support within the community. It’s like everyone is protecting their little parcel of whatever they have: a store, an event, a solution.

I’m not sure if this is created by the scarcity of opening the door to someone else to succeed, by greed, to insure they remain on top, or by survival instinct, but it’s a real problem. The doors are closed to people who could actually make a difference.”

Today, brands are their own publishers.

Social media has offered up tools, data, look-a-like models, and so much more in terms of publishing your own ads to managing your customer service all online.

Channelling influencers and bloggers to endorse products has completely changed the way we communicate and trust in what we are buying. In regards to competing with the big international fashion houses on social media, Lucian Matis noted, “Look, we’re just as good. We don’t have huge budgets and hundred-year-old houses, but we’re going to get there.” Matis also noted that “the return of investment is very hard to calculate on social media.”

So, the sobering reality is that paying for exposure through social media influencers may mean that millions of people see that garment, but that doesn’t guarantee that anyone will want to buy it.

What are Canadians buying? Seemingly, not Canadian fashion.

An evident lack of media coverage/ interest and support from within is evidently a larger issue when it comes to really cultivating brand awareness.

“What’s lacking in Canada is access to big international opportunities. Online retailers like Net-a-Porter and influencer media such as Vogue aren’t coming to Canada to see what Canadian designers are offering, so it’s necessary to go to them,” stated Susan Langdon.

Again, the paradox that to make it big, it has to be outside of the country.

Perhaps the approach that needs to be undertaken is to begin to praise our talents at home. Montreal, Toronto, and Vancouver have all been identified by all our interviewees as major fashion cities for diverse characteristics, however, “We aren’t doing anything mind-blowing in comparison to our counterparts,” explained designer Ellie Mae. If the trick is to broaden exposure, Dani Matte from boutique PR firm NordströmMatte Public Relations summarized perfectly that, “We need buyers and retailers to invest in Canadian talent. We need to recognize that we have to support our own family by investing in collections and putting marketing strategies behind the sales order to help advance the careers of those we know are ready to be on an international platform.”

An additional point revealed by Langdon was that “there’s no regulation enforcing retailers to buy even a small percentage of Canadian-made goods.” Lucian Matis expanded on this point: “I don’t think made-in-Canada gets the respect it should get; actually, it doesn’t get any respect.” The system plummets deeper into a gaping wound for local talent; if retailers don’t even glance in their direction, if margins and minimums can’t be made, then sadly, it seems like the end of the road.

“

wants everything immediately,” stated designer Markantoine. Understanding how technology can assist a brand all depends on the business model and strategy. One of the most evident challenges with selling fashion online is the absence of garment interaction: touch, feel, and fit. The technological world, however, is charging ahead to bridge the gap to make the online experience more feasible and as realistic as possible.

“

So, then what makes people want to buy? The needs, desires, and wants of today’s consumer have also evolved over time. Fashion, besides the functionality of something covering our body for survival, perhaps is heavily linked to emotion. In fact, Psychology Today wrote an article that highlighted studies that show “that when evaluating brands, consumers primarily use emotions (personal feelings and experiences), rather than information (brand attributes, features, and facts); the consumer’s emotional response to an ad has far greater influence on their reported intent to buy a product than does the ad’s content; ‘likeability’ is the measure most predictive of whether an advertisement will increase a brand’s sales; and positive emotions towards a brand have a far greater influence on consumer loyalty than trust and other judgments” (How Emotions Influence What We Buy).

WE WERE KIND OF PUSHED TO CREATE DRESS TO KILL. WE HADNO place to be, NO ONE WAS GIVING US A CHANCE. WE WANTED to produce CONTENT OUTSIDE OF THE industry’s REQUIRED FORMAT -we wanted TO DO SOMETHING ELSE. Kathia Cambron (Dress to Kill Magazine Co-Founder)

As the onset of technology has dominated and will continue to change the way we live, it has also indefinitely altered the way we shop. If retailers have no interest in Canadian brands, technology lends a helping hand extending itself to the endless possibilities to present your product to your desired final consumer. The importance of having an ecommerce platform integrated into your brand website is paramount in 2018. Retailers have been losing steam for some time due to the rise of a direct-to-consumer approach. “We don’t sell through any retailers - our online store is our lifeline. That being said, the main challenge with online is that people really want to see and touch the product and try it on before purchasing - we’re working on how to change the consumer’s experience,” exclaimed Rosa Halpern, designer at Namesake.

In today’s world, brands have again become masters of their domains from publishing, managing their creative content, sending e-blasts, and organizing flawless digital boutiques. With the number of tools available, ecommerce is an extremely valuable platform and a simultaneous challenge. “It is difficult to sell clothes on orders with a threeweek delay; we live in a world that

Even in the face of change, there are some significant standout retailers such as Simons and SSENSE, which are two significant players that embrace domestic talent. “SSENSE in Montreal tends to shed light on Canadian-grown talent and brands,” said designer Ellie Mae. “Simons is a good example of a Canadian company that is design-focused, fashion forward, and supports local designers,” Hayley Elsaesser noted.

Both retailers have done extremely well on an international level and making a Canadian mark on the industry; however, Canadian brand recognition is still extremely lacking.

The unfortunate reality is that the deeper you dive into the Canadian industry, you get a sense of the lack of support for what we cultivate here at home. “Just show up - that would be step one,” Hayley Elsaesser replied when asked how Canadian media sources can support the industry.

It is seemingly a vicious circle beginning with a lack of support from the media leading to limited or no brand exposure, leading back to limited brands to feature in the media, which only increasingly ostracizes Canadian talent.

Designer

UNTTLD CANADA’S FAVOURITE Photographer Jean-Claude Lussier Fashion Editor Fritz

Zephir Dress ($995) UNTTLD. Bracelet ($40) X20.

This page: Tasmin Dress ($850) and Marcelina Top ($395) UNTTLD. Boots ($425) JIMMY CHOO at HOLT RENFREW. Rings ($500-$575) HOLT RENFREW. This page: Crane Jacket ($860) UNTTLD. Hat ($500) HENRI HENRI.

This page: Cereta Cape ($1,250) UNTTLD. Boots ($1,890) DIOR at HOLT RENFREW. Opposite page: Olof Coat ($1,650) UNTTLD. Choker ($40) and Belt ($52) X20. Boots ($1,890) DIOR at HOLT RENFREW. Rings ($500-$625) HOLT RENFREW. Photographer JEAN-CLAUDE LUSSIER. Fashion Editor FRITZ. Makeup & Hair PACO PUERTAS at FOLIO using SEPHORA and L’OREAL PROFESSIONNEL. Model KELLY ANNE at CHANTALE NADEAU. Lighting, Tech and Digitalization WILLIAM LANGLAIS.

Adapting to the Modern World As the fashion industry worldwide has been forced to adapt and present a fresh new approach on viewing collections and diversifying brand experiences, some of the most notable brands worldwide have evolved their brand spirit, applying new spins on their DNA. It is without a doubt that Canada is a very talented place. “We are not lacking in talent - I believe we need to find ways as a nation to encourage our Canadian consumers to discover and support our up-andcoming designers,” pointed out Vicky Milner, Co-Founder of the Canadian Arts & Fashion Awards (CAFA).

From bespoke pieces created by Di Carlo Couture, such as the dress seen on Jessica Mulroney at the Royal Wedding, to divine gowns created

by Lucian Matis, Canadians are quite unaware of the array of gifts we have here at home.

The emphasis here is clearly on “array of gifts,” as the perception of Canada and Canadian fashion is tried and true when it comes to certain products.

“In my case of being in the outerwear business, I believe it is a great advantage to be Canadian because the world trusts Canadian coat brands due to our geographical location and ever-lasting cold winter,” remarked Bojana Sentaler, Founder & Lead Designer of brand Sentaler. If there

is one thing we are on the map for, it is being experts in extreme frigid elements and the outerwear sector.

However, the general perception, even from within the country, is that Canada is all about “lumberjack flannel, beaver printed sweatshirts, and lots of toques,” says Hayley Elsaesser.

Again, we cannot compare ourselves as such a young country to the expertise of others, but we must be aware of where we are lacking in order to compete. Canada is lacking in support and cohesiveness from within. Perhaps not only does being recognized on an international scale signify ‘making it big’ as much as accepting outside players in the country as well. Fashion weeks around the world from Milan to Copenhagen feature brands that aren’t native. Instead of limiting, we could be inclusive during Toronto and Montreal fashion weeks as well.

There’s a lot of positivity surrounding the fact that this country is a great cultivator for small business, essentially a dream nurturer, and a place full of talent, but creativity is unfortunately dwarfed by simple disinterest, a lack of support, and a general lack of knowhow regarding the fashion industry. Embracing professionals from aboard, essentially diversifying our education (both tactically and emotionally) would perhaps keep students local and stimulated, and a range of worldwide brands could bring in foreign press…

The list of possibilities goes on.

The Canadian industry needs some work if we’re to elevate ourselves to

compete on an international level. Anika Kozlowski, Assistant Professor of Fashion Design, Ethics, & Sustainability at Ryerson School of Fashion noted that buyers and international industry officials are not sure which fashion week to go to: Montreal, Toronto, or Vancouver. “We are a huge country with a small population and end up with lots of fashion weeks in multiple cities with different MOs. This is difficult for small designers who can’t afford to participate in multiple fashion weeks across the country. Our fashion weeks have also sat outside of buyer’s ‘buying windows’ which means they’ve already spent their budgets elsewhere by the time our fashion weeks roll around…

So, rather than being a showcase for buyers to buy, fashion week just ends up being a very expensive publicity event with no sales gains for designers… And our fashion weeks are really long comparatively but with far less designers showing.” Fashion week, a pivotal event for a plethora of brands worldwide, seems to be seriously lacking in Canada. “I feel that money should be taken and invested somewhere like New York to make sure we show up in the epicenter of fashion in North America,” stated designer Ellie Mae. Sage Paul, Founder & Artistic Director of Indigenous Fashion Week Toronto, highlighted that currently it’s more advantageous to create intimate and loyal relationships between brands, consumers, and potential buyers, which fashion weeks can’t always achieve.

Our Future Returning to our initial opening state-

ment: we live in a hyper-technological world. As Vicky Milner noted, this will “further decentralize the retail power with smaller creators being able to make their mark and the consumer’s desire for unique products,” providing hope and astute insight into the future of the marketplace.

Being a relatively new country in terms of the fashion industry, there’s still ample room for growth. With sufficient support, funds, and enthusiasm, it can be our time to shine, domestically and abroad.

There are increasingly more business opportunities and funding currently available - it is time to leave the excuses behind and come together in order to succeed. Take the success of Christopher Bates as an example, who credits

“

PLATFORMS like TORONTO FASHION WEEK AND ORGANIZATIONS like CAFA,TFI, AND FGI TORONTO PROVIDE EXCELLENT opportunities FOR THE INDUSTRY. Christopher Bates

“

Milan Tanedjikov also sees the downfalls of fashion weeks, but had ideas for how to move them into the future: “The format could be improved to fit the expectations of millennial fashionistas, buyers, media, and designers. Perhaps we could have something else than conventional runway shows. We should also consider the immediacy of social media as well as the fact that designers work on many small product deliveries and not two big collections per year.

Anyway, one thing that I know for sure is that young forward audiences are craving fashion experiences and they are eager to participate. Fashion week is not dead but it could be better!”

Toronto for that success: “It’s been a perfect incubator for developing my brand. Platforms like Toronto Fashion Week and organizations like CAFA, TFI, and FGI Toronto provide excellent opportunities for the industry.”

As an incredibly inclusive country and one of the most multicultural in the world, Canada is still very ‘young at heart’, when it comes to the fashion industry. “We are perfectly positioned to take advantage of all the societal cross-pollination that Canadians are exposed to,” said Milner, and indeed we are. As technology continues from speeding up production lead times to

evolving 3D printing, Canada finds itself just in the right positioning and mindset to embrace such advancements. It’s expected that the apparel market in Canada will continue to grow. In 2016, the Canadian apparel market was valued at approximately 24.95 billion U.S. dollars and is expected to reach 29.66 billion U.S. dollars by 2020 (Statistica, Value of the Apparel Market in Canada from 2016 to 2020).

Milan Tanedjikov had some suggestions in order to get there: “Specifically, creative entrepreneurs need access to capital and opportunities for quality mentorship that will prepare them for international growth.

If it was up to me, I would follow Antwerp’s fashion industry model. It appears to be a small market driven by young creatives, but beyond the surface, there are experienced professional and policy decision makers, from local or national governments that ‘get it’, and as a result, they support the right innovative projects. We need a creative hub.”

The issue then would be for the proper communication and support from our major hubs that fashion in Canada is in fact cool. We collectively need to get behind what is produced at home, starting with support and coverage by the media, streetstyle photographers, stylists, and influencers - we have so many brands worth being proud of. We are on the map for our phenomenal sports teams and award-winning musical artists, and now all we really have to do is dress them and start telling the world that we are a viable fashion competitor.

NewVision

DESIGNERS Photographer Alex Black Fashion Editor Tinashe Musara

This page: Ruffled Denim Trench Coat ($645) WRKDEPT. Earrings ($225.25) GIVENCHY. Opposite page: Embroidered Dress ($2,929.29) at MARAM PARIS. Earrings (Price Upon Request) CHANEL.

Velvet Dress ($680) MAYA CHARBIN. Earrings ($30) ALDO.

WHAT ARE THE NEGATIVES TO THE CANADIAN FASHION INDUSTRY? I DON’T THINK IT’S “POSSIBLE TO ONLY

OPERATE OR SELL WITHIN CANADA AND BE SUCCESSFUL… I DON’T THINK WE ARE VERY SUPPORTIVE OF OUR OWN. OUR INDUSTRY IS ALSO DWARFED BY ALMOST EVERY OTHER MAJOR MARKET BECAUSE WE DON’T THINK OF OUR DESIGNERS AS HIGH QUALITY.

”

Hayley Elsaesser Designer

CANADA IS RELATIVELY “SPREAD OUT AND THERE IS NOT A BIG ENOUGH MARKET. ” Andrew Majtenyi Designer

“

WHAT LACKS IN THE REST OF CANADA THAT TORONTO HAS PLENTY OF IS THE SUPPORT OF NATIONAL MEDIA THAT CAN VALIDATE THESE ORGANIZATIONS ON A MORE NATIONAL SCALE.

“

CANADIANS “ IN THE FASHION

INDUSTRY NEED TO BE IN PLACES WHERE THERE IS THE EXPOSURE AVAILABLE, THE RIGHT PEOPLE AVAILABLE, FUNDS TO HELP THEM GROW, AND MORE ROOM FOR CREATIVITY. I THINK THAT BECAUSE WE ARE SO CLOSE TO THE U.S. AND IT IS SUCH A MASSIVE MARKET, WE ARE INFLUENCED A LOT FROM IT THAT WE DON’T HAVE OUR OWN IDENTITY AS CANADIANS IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY.

”

Valeria Lipovetsky Influencer

”

THERE’S A LACK OF INTEREST OF THE PRESS FOR THE ‘CREATORS’.

WE’RE LACKING GOVERNMENT SUPPORT, THE SUPPORT OF LARGE NON-EXISTENT COMPANIES, AND THE EYES OF THE AGING POPULATION ON YOUNG CREATORS BRIMMING WITH CREATIVITY… CANADIANS ALSO OFTEN TEND TO UNDERESTIMATE THEMSELVES.

”

Markantoine Designer

“

OUR RESOURCES ARE LIMITED HERE, I.E., DYE HOUSES AND CAPABILITIES TO SUPPORT SMALL RUNS OF PRODUCTION.

”

Ellie Mae Designer

MOST OF CANADIANS “DON’T CARE ABOUT

FASHION, SO FASHION DOESN’T CARE ABOUT US. WE HAVE TOO SMALL OF A FASHION POPULATION.

”

Duy

Ania B

Designer

Influencer

“

MOST RETAILERS ARE BRAND- OR PRICE-DRIVEN, MAKING IT DIFFICULT FOR CANADIAN DESIGNERS TO COMPETE… WHAT’S LACKING IS ACCESS TO BIG INTERNATIONAL OPPORTUNITIES.

”

Susan Langdon

Executive Director, Toronto Fashion Incubator

This page: Dress (Price Upon Request) MARIE SAINT PIERRE ATELIER. Earrings ($30) ALDO. Jewellery (Price Upon Request) COSTUME VINTAGE. Opposite page: Elena Dress ($750) and Shoes (Price Upon Request) DENIS GAGNON. Rings (Price Upon Request) FEATHERSTONE VINTAGE.

WHAT NEEDS TO BE DONE FOR US TO SUCCEED IN FASHION? PROMOTE COATS “WEANDMUST TECHNOLOGICAL

“

I’D LOVE TO SEE MORE CANADIANS SUPPORTING LOCAL DESIGNERS. THAT’S WHY WE STARTED THE #WEARCANADAPROUD HASHTAG AND MOVEMENT. IT’S IMPORTANT TO APPEAL TO THE INTERNATIONAL MARKET IN ORDER TO REACH A CERTAIN LEVEL OF SUCCESS.

”

Vicky Milner

President, Canadian Arts & Fashion Awards

FABRICS… NOVELTY DOES NOT HURT ANYONE! WHAT EXPERIENCES HAVE MADE YOU PROUD TO BE A CANADIAN DESIGNER?

”

Markantoine Designer

A GOOD NETWORK, GOOD “SUPPORT, AND AMAZING DESIGNS. ”

CANADA COULD “BEI THINK MORE SUPPORTIVE OF

HOMEGROWN TALENT. THIS INCLUDES THINGS LIKE GOVERNMENT GRANTS, MEDIA ATTENTION, AND CUSTOMER SUPPORT. AND EDUCATION - I FEEL LIKE I CAN DO ANYTHING IF I HAVE THE OPPORTUNITY TO LEARN HOW.

”

Andrew Majtenyi

Hayley Elsaesser

Designer

Designer

IT’S THE LARGE BUSINESSES “THAT MAKE THE INDUSTRY

SEEM BIG AND UNATTAINABLE. I WOULD LOVE TO SEE SUPPORT ONE ANOTHER. AS A STRATEGIST, MY LARGER BUSINESSES WORK BUY CANADIAN. INVEST IN ROLE IS TO GIVE GREATER IN COLLABORATION WITH LENDING YOUR TALENT TO MEANING TO WHAT CANADIAN ARTISTS, HELP CANADIANS BREAK MANY SIMPLY SEE AS THE ENTREPRENEURS, AND THROUGH THE BORDERS TO GARMENT INDUSTRY, BY BUSINESSES. EVEN MORE ESTABLISH THEIR BRANDS BRINGING THE EXPERIENCE, SPECIFIC, THAT THEY GLOBALLY. INSPIRATION, AND STORY COLLABORATE WITH OR HIRE BEHIND THE PIECE TO THE INDIGENOUS PROFESSIONALS CONSUMER.” Dani Matte IN THE INDUSTRY. Founding Partner, NordströmMatte Public Relations

“

“

”

”

Brittany McBain

Sage Paul

Fashion Marketing Strategist, Laso Strategy

Designer, Founder & Artistic Director of Indigenous Fashion Week Toronto

“

WE NEED TO RECOGNIZE THAT WE HAVE TO SUPPORT OUR OWN FAMILY BY INVESTING IN COLLECTIONS AND PUTTING MARKETING STRATEGIES BEHIND THE SALES ORDERS TO HELP ADVANCE THE CAREERS OF THOSE WE KNOW ARE READY TO BE ON AN INTERNATIONAL PLATFORM.

”

Ellie Mae Designer

Bodysuit ($245) MARKANTOINE.

This page: Metallic Dress ($300) ANDREW COIMBRA. Opposite page: Dress ($2,100) MARIE SAINT PIERRE. Photography ALEX BLACK. Fashion Editor TINASHE MUSARA at FOLIO. Makeup & Hair MAINA MILITZA at FOLIO. Model Adhele at DULCEDO. Assistant Stylist KEEGAN LATHE-LEBLANC. Special thanks to STYLIST BOX, TORONTO.

EVENTS

Repairing theWorld: Dining for Animal Justice

There are a few things that I really enjoy: crashing people’s houses, meeting genuine individuals who are great conversationalists, the occasional glass of wine, surprises, and not eating meat. So when Aristotle Andrulakis invited me to his “ABSTRACTIONS” event in early August, I knew it was something I should attend.

A

By Kathia Cambron

ris hosted Abstractions at Glenn Chilton’s gorgeous home, setting a table for 80 people in the marketing guru’s driveway. There was a pre-dinner playground in the backyard, where we had time to mingle before a contemporary and abstract musical performance, a perfect prelude to our meal. It turned out that my friend brought us together to share his (com)passion: animal rights. Myself and my incredible dinner companions were dining on vegan fare paired with stunning wines – quite the menu.

After glasses of sparkling rosé and white wine and two appetizers, Aris took the chance to acknowledge the purpose of the evening, thank the talented Chef Romain Avril for creating the beautiful spread, and introduce Nick Wright, a phenomenal person and accomplished lawyer who founded Animal Justice, a law firm that fights for animal rights.

We are pretty good at establishing basic rights for humans, but what about our furry friends? Why do they have to constantly suffer at our expense?

How come they don’t have any basic rights?

Wright has built a world-class team around him that is making progress towards better regulations for animals.

126

In a movie-like moment, the rain appeared as a perfect ending to our meal, and we all ran inside to crash Mr. Chilton’s house and listen to more musical performances.

Thank you to Aris; his sponsors Electronica AI, Grey Goose Canada, Two Sisters, and Perroni; Mr. Chilton for his willingness to open his house; and a wink to Bruce Bailey – that man is Dress(ed) to Kill.

NICK WRIGHT, ARISTOTLE ANDRULAKIS, DAVID D’ANGELO & ANYA NORDSTROM

TRINITY JACKMAN & MARCUS DOYLE JACQUELINE KENDALL

MARY SIMONS & NOLAN BRYANT GLENN CHILTON

SHINAN GHOVANI

ANYA NORDSTROM & ADAM DEVIEUX PETER WONG & ADAM HENDEN CAPRI

BRUCE BAILEY

MIRA METTER

ALI GOODWIN

MARSHA DOUCETTE

ERIC SO, GLENN CHILTON & KENT FARRELL

GLEN BAXTER

TRAVEL Escape to the South of

FRANCE

Channel your inner Bardot and start packing: it’s time to experience a life of luxury on a stylish trip to the must-see fashion destinations in southern France. By Marie-Ève Venne

NICE

Jean-Charles

Countless movies have made Nice the ultimate glamorous escape of the French countryside.

This upscale boutique sells the ready-to wear designer items of your most fashionable dreams.

You’ll find everything from Chloe to Jimmy Choo and Saint-Laurent, along with an impressive shoe selection. After a visit at Jean-Charles, you’ll be dressed to impress the most elegant people of the Côte d’Azur.

AIX-EN-PROVENCE

Muse

Aix-en-Provence, a small but legendary town that has inspired painters from all over the world, is still welcoming upmarket boutiques that never fail to catch tourists’ attention. In this spirit, the luxury, multi-brand boutique Muse is the perfect destination for fans of noble materials and elegant lines. Here, you will find a variety of clothes, leather goods, and designer accessories to discover at your leisure.

BORDEAUX

Natacha

LYON

Cae

A prime destination for anything related to gastronomy, Lyon also has an impressive creative scene showcasing many talents. Stop by the Village des Createurs, a project aiming to promote local creatives from the Rhône-Alpes region, where you’ll be able to discover young fashion, jewellery, and prints labels. Make sure to visit Cae, a creative boutique specializing in denim, reinvesting in the “bleu work” to give it a new dimension.

128

What many call one of France’s most illustrious cities, Bordeaux boasts a strong style and shopping scene.

To max your credit card, head to the Golden Triangle (bordered by the Cours de l’Intendance, Allées de Tourny, and Cours Clemenceau), where you’ll find all the luxury brand names. If you are running short on time, we suggest you stop by Natacha, where you can find the latest Chanel and that Prada handbag that’s been on your wish list this whole season.

DEVELOP YOUR CREATIVITY

DESIGNER: Elise Deladem PHOTOGRAPHER: Jean-Michael Seminaro

B® CHANEL S. de R.L. ©CHANEL, Inc. CHANEL ®

www.chanel.com

Vancouver (604) 682-0522

Calgary (403) 232-6240

Toronto Bloor (416) 964-1085

Toronto Flagship (416) 925-2577

Toronto Yorkdale (416) 784-0990

Montreal (514) 842-7318