August Issue of Driven World

9th Annual: Pauper’s Run 2011 p.12 Fine Dining p.22 Cars 4 Sale p.25 August 2011

After all...it’s a driven world

THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF SUPERCAR SUNDAY

Contents ISSUE 20, AUGUST 2011 EDITOR IN CHIEF ART DIRECTOR

Tim Cummings

SENIOR COPY EDITOR

Louis Berkman

PRINTING DESIGN WEB DESIGN STORIES BY

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Dustin Troyan

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SIZING: Full Page 8.625” x 11.125” 1/2” Page 7.875” x 5” (if horizontal) and 3.875” x 10.375” (if vertical) 1/4” Page 3.875” x 5” Business Card 2” x 3.5” PRICING: Front Cover Space...........................................$750 Full Page Inset................................................. $600 Full Page Back Cover......................................$600 Full Page...........................................................$500 Half Page..........................................................$400 Quarter Page....................................................$300 Business Card..................................................$100 Calendar Page..................................................$550 Cars 4 Sale..........................................................$50 Artwork Specifications: HI-REZ PDF or PDF/X1-A / CMYK with all high resoulution graphics and fonts embedded Email artwork to: Dustin@connectedmediagroup.com

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from the editor Ruined For Life.

STORY BY DUSTIN TROYAN

Dear General Motors, When you called and asked if I would like to experience a ZR1 for a couple of weeks, I was a little excited. I had never driven or ridden in a ZR1 and kind of figured it would be a Z06 with a blower and some carbon brakes. I thought I knew what to expect considering I have a 600hp 1968 Camaro project with a similar engine, blower and transmission. The ZR1 boasts 38hp more, sure, I can handle it. Right? Wrong.

GM, I would like to explain to you that I am ruined for life. Driving the ZR1 from Los Angeles to Las Vegas with 25 Ferraris, I felt like King Kong in a petting zoo. It was the first time in my life that I had the experience of bringing a F-22 Fighter Jet to a knife fight. I was in the company of the World’s finest and I might have been in the world’s finest. Oh, how I miss the ZR1.

How did you ruin me? Allow me to explain; When I entered the ZR1 it seemed as if it was a fancy Corvette. Sure a few cosmetic differences, but starting the engine, a quite lullaby it sang. Really, that is it? Boy Jon’s Scuderia, now that is a symphony, just

idling. 638hp and 604ftlbs of torque and that is all noise it makes? Then, oh the fateful then…….I stood on that gas and my life changed forever. A hurricane of anger erupted from the rear of the car and life as I knew it was over.

The ZR1, my new love. Something amazing happens when you step on the gas, Clark Kent runs into a phone booth, rips off his clothes and exits the ZR1. Popeye grabs his spinach and starts chewing and “shiver me timbers”, comes out swinging. The revolution of the earth is now spinning backwards and I am holding on to dear life. My poor poor 1968 Camaro at 600 hp, how I loved you, now, even with the modern driveline and performance suspension and brakes, you seem like a relic of the past. My 2008 Subaru STI that I too loved for many different reasons, one being your performance, now you feel like a 1985 Yugo. My love affair for the exotic Europeans, long live America.

You took my entire automotive paradigm and threw it up in the air and it shattered like the pavement as those big 335/25/zr20s

grabbed and we were clear for lift off.

GM, for the first time in my life I called a shrink. I am clinically depressed. Not only did you redefine what I understood to be performance, but now, all of my vehicles seem to be horribly in adequate. I find myself downshifting in my STI and hitting the gas and I am so disappointed. My 1968 Camaro, I haven’t touched it, infact it is parked on the side yard covered in plastic. I find myself scouring Craigslist to see what used ZR1s go for and like a strung out junkie trying to plan and plot to raise the capital to buy one. Could I sell all my cars, all my sporting goods, get 5 extra jobs and work around the clock? I called a medium and asked her to summons Satan and see if he would trade a ZR1 for my soul……he said he wasn’t trading his ZR1 in for all the souls on earth. So, thanks, thanks for ruining me.

I revisit those pictures from the run to Vegas, the smile on my face, the grass seemed greener, the air sweeter, the economy better and dammit, life was good! ZR1 Dreams for now.

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tech support

BRAKING ZONE: THE MYTH OF “WARPED” BRAKE DISCS STORY BY CARROLL SMITH

T

he term "warped brake disc" has been in common use in motor racing for decades. When a driver reports a vibration or pulsation under hard braking, inexperienced crews, after checking for (and not finding) cracks often attribute the vibration to "warped discs." They then measure the disc thickness in various places, find significant variation and the diagnosis is cast in stone.

When disc brakes for high performance cars arrived on the scene we began to hear of "warped brake discs" on road going cars, too, with the same analyses and diagnoses.

Typically, the discs are resurfaced to cure the problem and, equally typically, after a relatively short time the roughness or vibration comes back. This has been going on for decades now - and, like most things that we have cast in stone, the diagnoses are almost always wrong.

With one qualifier, presuming that the hub and wheel flange are flat and in good condition and that the wheel bolts or hat mounting hardware is in good condition, installed correctly and tightened uniformly and in the correct order to the recommended torque specification – almost every case of "warped brake disc" that you’ll experience, whether on a racing car or a street car, will actually turn out to be friction pad material transferred unevenly to the surface of the disc. This uneven deposition results in thickness variation that can produce those familiar pedal pulsations under braking.

In order to understand what is happening here, we will briefly investigate the nature of the stopping power of the disc brake system.

THE NATURE OF BRAKING FRICTION While most people think the brakes are what stop a car, it’s actually the tires that do that work. Brakes merely convert dynamic energy into heat through friction. There are two very different sorts of braking friction at work in this process - abrasive friction and adherent friction. Abrasive friction involves the breaking of the crystalline bonds of both the pad material and the disc itself.

Adherent friction involves the formation of a transfer layer of friction material on the disc, with resulting formation and breaking

of bonds between the friction material on the pad and the friction material adhered to the disc.

In abrasive friction, the bonds between crystals of the pad material (and, to a lesser extent, the disc material) are permanently broken. The harder material wears the softer away (hopefully the disc wears the pad).

Pads that function primarily by abrasion have a high wear rate and tend to fade at high temperatures. When these pads reach their effective temperature limit, they will transfer pad material onto the disc face in a random and uneven pattern. It is this uneven deposition on the disc face that both causes the thickness variation measured by the technicians and the roughness or vibration under braking reported by the drivers.

With adherent friction, on the other hand, some of the pad material diffuses and forms a very thin, uniform layer of pad material on the surface of the disc. As the friction surfaces of both the disc and pad are now basically the same material, this material can now transfer in both directions as the bonds continually break and reform.

WHAT KIND OF FRICTION IS HAPPENING ON MY CAR? There is no such thing as pure abrasive or pure adherent friction in braking. With

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many contemporary pad formulas, the pad material must be abrasive enough to keep the disc surface smooth and clean. As the material crosses the interface, the layer on the disc is constantly renewed and kept uniform - again until the temperature limit of the pad has been exceeded or if the pad and the disc have not been bedded-in completely or properly. If the brakes are improperly bedded in, there may not be a non-uniform layer of pad material transferred onto the disc face. If the pads are severely temperature limited, they may also produce uneven deposition when they exceed their temperature range.

Unfortunately, there is also no such thing as an ideal "all around" brake pad. The friction material that is quiet and functions well at relatively low temperatures around town will not stop the car that is driven hard with race tires on a track. If you attempt to drive many cars hard with the OEM pads, you will likely experience pad fade, uneven friction material transfer and fluid boiling. The true racing pad, used under normal conditions will be noisy, wear itself and rotors very quickly, and will likely not provide good friction at low temperatures around town.

Ideally, in order to avoid either putting up with squealing brakes that will not stop the car well around town or with pad fade on the track or coming down the mountain at speed, we should change pads before indulging in vigorous automotive exercise, but hardly anybody does. The question remains, what pads should be used in high performance street cars - relatively low temperature street pads or high temperature race pads?

The best answer depends on a lot of variables, but for folks with a high performance street car, a good option is a high performance street pad with good low temperature characteristics. The reason is simple: If we are driving really hard and begin to run into trouble, either with pad fade or boiling fluid (or both), the condition(s) comes

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on gradually enough to allow us to simply modify our driving style to compensate. On the other hand, should an emergency occur when the brakes are cold, the pure racing pad may simply not stop the car quickly enough.

THE IMPORTANCE OF AN EVEN TRANSFER LAYER Regardless of pad composition, if both disc and pad are not properly bedded-in, material transfer between the two surfaces can take place in a random fashion - resulting in uneven deposits that lead to vibration under braking. Similarly, even if the brakes are properly broken in, if, when they are very hot or following a single long stop from high speed, the brakes are kept applied after the vehicle comes to a complete stop, it is possible to leave behind a telltale

deposit . This kind of deposit is called pad imprinting and may be as clear as if the pad was inked for printing like a stamp and then set on the disc face. If a rotor with such a print is driven, the print may be worn away to just a large patch of transferred material.

Under braking, these high spots are the first to make contact with the pad. That causes more work to be done in this location, tending to transfer more friction material to the surface, building up its thickness.

The uneven work also disproportionately heats that portion of the disc, in some cases enough to permanently change its crystalline structure into a harder form of iron that wears more slowly than the rest of the disc.

Over time the problem will only worsen, resulting in pedal pulsations under braking that will continue to get worse and worse.

PREVENTION IS AS SIMPLE AS PROPER BREAK-IN There is only one way to prevent this sort of thing – always follow proper break-in procedures for both pad and disc and use the correct pad for your driving style and conditions. All high performance aftermarket discs and pads should come with both installation and break-in instructions. The

even pick up. It may seem hard to believe, but a driver can feel a deposit or transfer variance of just 0.0004" on the disc. A variation of 0.001" is annoying and more than that becomes a real pain.

Beyond a proper break in, as mentioned above, never leave your foot on the brake pedal after you have used the brakes hard.

This is not usually a problem on public roads simply because, under normal conditions, the brakes have time to cool before you bring the car to a stop. In any kind of racing, including autocross and track days, it is crucial. Regardless of friction material, clamping the pads to a hot stationary disc will result in material transfer and discernible "brake roughness." What is worse, the pad will leave the telltale imprint or outline on the disc and your sin will be visible to all.

procedures are very similar between manufacturers.

The bedding or break-in procedures are typically a series of ten increasingly hard stops from 60 mph to 5 mph with normal acceleration in between. During pad or disc break-in, you do not want to come to a complete stop, so plan where and when you do this procedure with care and concern for yourself and the safety of others. If you come to a complete stop before the break-in process is completed there is a good chance that non-uniform pad material transfer or pad imprinting will take place and the results will be exactly what you are trying to avoid.

In terms of stop severity, aim for a deceleration rate near but below lock up or ABS intervention. You should begin to smell the pads heating up at the 5th to 7th stop and the smell should diminish before the last stop. A powdery gray area will become visible on the edge of the pad where the paint and resins of the pad are burning off. When the gray area on the edges of the pads are about 1/8" deep, the pad is bedded.

For a race pad, typically four 80 to 5 mph and two 100 to 5 mph stops, depending on the pad, will also be necessary to raise the

system temperatures during break-in to the range at which the pad material was designed to operate. Hence, the higher temperature material can establish its layer completely and uniformly on the disc surface.

Again, heat should be put into the system gradually - increasingly hard stops with cool off time in between. Part of the idea is to avoid prolonged contact between pad and disc. With abrasive pads, the disc can be considered bedded when the friction surfaces have attained an even blue color.

With pads that typically operate more adherently, bedding is complete when the friction surfaces of the disc are a consistent gray or black. In any case, the discoloration of a completely broken-in disc will be complete and uniform.

MAINTAINING AN EVEN TRANSFER LAYER Depending upon the friction compound, easy use of the brakes for an extended period may lead to the removal of the transfer layer on the discs by the abrasive action of the pads. When we are going to exercise a car that has seen easy brake use for a while, a partial re-bedding process will prevent un-

“CURING” PEDAL PULSATION PROBLEMS The obvious question now is, "Is there a ’cure‘ for discs with uneven friction material deposits?" The answer is a conditional yes.

If the vibration has just started, the chances are that the temperature has never reached the point of no return. In this case, simply fitting a set of more abrasive pads and using them hard (after bedding) may well remove the deposits and restore the system to normal operation.

If only a small amount of material has been transferred - i.e. the vibration is just starting - vigorous scrubbing with steel wool may remove the deposit. As many deposits are not visible, scrub the entire friction surface thoroughly. Do not use regular sand paper or emery cloth, as the aluminum oxide abrasive material will permeate the cast iron surface and make the condition worse. Do not bead blast or sand blast the discs for the same reason.

The only fix for extensive uneven deposits involves dismounting the discs and having them turned or ground - not expensive, but inconvenient at best. A newly machined disc will require the same sort of bedding in process as a new disc. The trouble with this procedure is that if the machining does not remove all of the deposits, then as the disc wears the deposits will stand proud of the relatively soft disc and the spiral starts over again. Unfortunately, the deposits may be invisible to the naked eye, so be diligent.

Taking time to properly bed your braking system pays big dividends but, as with most sins, a repeat of the behavior that caused the trouble will bring it right back.

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The 9th Annual:

Pauper’s Run 2011 STORY BY DUSTIN TROYAN

W

hen some friends called and asked if I wanted to take over the Pauper’s Run, I couldn’t say no. The Pauper’s run is an evolution of exotic owners who wanted to go to Vegas together in a leisurely fashion. The Pauper’s run is a friend only, invite only trip to Vegas that boasts some of the rarest and exotic cars and owners on the planet. I was lucky indeed to have GM supply me with a ZR1 for the drive which was infinetly more exciting than my STI. The 9th Annual Pauper’s run was a blast. A very special thank you to all of those who laid the foundations for the event. Jeffrey, Jon and Eric, Thank you!

I would like to thank the Auto Gallery for sponsoring the event and for providing mobile support from LA to Vegas and Back.

John Kerley head of Auto Gallery Service and Travis, you guys are amazing. Richard and his team at Penske Wynn Ferrari, your support, opening shop to save a few of our cars, complimentary washes are brilliant. I would also like to thank Melissa Dominick Conference Services Manager at the Encore, I truly appreciate your help and couldn’t have done it without you.

We headed out with 25 exotics, a leisurely drive that stopped at the Spring Mountain Motor Resort and Country Club. If you have never been, you need to go. Think Four Seaons with a race track, garages, Radicals, gun range, spa, pools, massages, go karts, mechanics, garages, condos, Cor-

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vette School and so much more. We were lucky that one of our Paupers is a member and we were able to get the full experience.

Spring Mountain’s race track has a number of different configurations and is truly first class. A ride around the track as a passenger in a V8 Radical is mind blowing. If you have never been in a Radical, you will never understand. The closest to a F1 experience that I have ever encountered. The speeds, handling and breaking far surpass anything you think possible or logical. After our rides in Radicals, the Paupers received a full tour of the property and then a lunch in the club house. Spring Mountain is an entirely new model of the motorstport lifestyle and is cutting edge. They are doing things that nobody else is doing and it is truly worth noting. If you are going to Vegas, be sure to stop by. SM is about 35minutes from the strip.

From Spring Mountain we head to the Encore where, and as always, we were received in classic Encore Style. Our private parking, security and suties surpassed our expectations. Keeping most of the activities at the Encore and Wynn properties, the buffet, bars, restaurants, shopping, gaming and nightlife were truly the best Vegas has to offer. The Paupers were pleased and we will be calling soon of for the 10th Annual Pauper’s Run. A very special thank you to all the Paupers for making the 9th Annual a huge success.

Clockwise: Pulling over t

to stretch our legs before we hit the road, Mercedes SLS 2011, Getting radical at Spring Mountain.

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cooking with louis

Taking A Walk Down Electric Avenue STORY BY LOUIS BERKMAN

I

am a small electric appliance junkie. If it plugs in I have owned or do own it. From this vast amount of experience I have distilled a short list of essential electric appliances. It includes a blender, hand mixer, can opener, rice cooker and coffee maker. You can have more appliances but I think these are all you need in a basic kitchen setup.

Perhaps the most misunderstood appliance is the blender. Here is a tool that can mix, puree and chop that takes up very little counter space and is generally easy to clean.

For many cuisines a blender is a necessity. I defy you to do real Mexican cooking without one. The blender that I recommend is the Vitamix Drink Machine Two Speed. This is from the Vitamix commercial line so you will have to go to a restaurant supply to find one. In a previous life I had two Drink Machine Two Speed blenders in my business.

After ten years of seven day a week use the only service needed was to replace a power switch. This is as close to bullet proof as any piece of equipment I have ever used. I recommend this model because of its extreme simplicity. There are no bells and whistles and no decisions to make about what speed to use. High speed or low speed, on or off, it doesn’t get simpler than this. These cost $360 - $400 and are worth every penny.

Hand mixers are not new to me but using them regularly is. I also have a stand mixer but am using it less and less because of this beast of a hand mixer I discovered recently.

This gem is the Dualit Hand Mixer from Dualit of England. It is powerful and fast.

It is priced like other high end hand mixers but is easier to hold, sits on its flat bottom when at rest and comes with a full complement of attachments. It also has a manual cord retraction system, so no loose cords lying around. It is available on the internet for about $80 - $90 and a bargain at this price.

An electric can opener presents a definite conundrum. By all rights you shouldn’t

need one. As I get older and my hands get stiffer, I absolutely need one. When you cook with a fair amount of canned tomato products as I do, opening a number of cans by hand becomes a painful chore. I bought my first electric can opener on a lark. Very soon after this it became a necessity. After researching and owning various type of electric can openers I have identified the one I consider to be best overall; the Hamilton Beach 76606. This uses the side cutting system that cuts the bead at the edge of the can instead of the actual top itself. This results in tops that have no sharp edges, so no chance of cut fingers. There is no transfer of food to the cutting blade and the top doesn’t sink into the contents of the can. This sells for about $30 online.

One of the more surprising electric appliances that I can’t live without is a rice cooker.

My wife and I eat a lot of rice. Rice cookers fall into three general categories; inexpensive and generic; more sophisticated with greater intelligence; and induction heated with even more intelligence.

While it is the Chinese and Thais who manufacture most of the world’s rice cookers, it is the Japanese who design the best ones.

The first and most popular is the inexpensive simple cooker. Add water and rice and when the water is absorbed by the rice, the unit stops cooking and switches to warm mode. Cooking heat is only produced from the bottom of the cooking vessel. Some of these are super insulated and can hold cooked rice for days. For the majority of users these are more than serviceable. These are priced from $20 - $100.

The second variety of cooker uses the same bottom up heating method with more sophisticated computer control. This allows for more varied cooking programs that can

handle a wide variety of rice. The control systems use “fuzzy logic” to produce rice with better texture and flavor than the basic cookers. These range in price up to about $175 The third type of cooker uses both “fuzzy logic” and induction (magnetic) heating to heat the entire cooking vessel. This method produces finer quality rice and the best flavor of the three types. This is the kind of cooker that I have graduated to. If you really like rice, these are most definitely worth the price. These generally cost $200 - $300.

There are even more expensive cookers available, exceeding $500 but I find the law of diminishing returns definitely applies to these.

I have included a coffeemaker on this list because I could not survive long without one. Unfortunately deciding on what type

Perhaps the most misunderstood appliance is the blender. to buy is a complex subject. Because of this, I will discuss coffee and coffeemakers in greater detail in my few next columns.

You might find this list more interesting because of what is not included than for what is included. It is easy to go crazy buying small electric appliances for your kitchen. What you will wind up with is a bunch of appliances that take up valuable storage and counter space that rarely get used. You really need to decide if you are going to use an appliance before you buy. This is an opportunity to learn from someone else’s mistakes.

Louis Berkman Village Coffee Roaster Louis@VillageCoffeeRoaster.com

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fine dining

Chef/Owner

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Cafe 14: Cut to the Chase

’m one of the chefs and owners of Cafe 14, a fine dining restaurant in Agoura Hills, California. We’ve been open now for over 7 years. I’ve been in the industry for 17. Throughout my experiences with food, there have been a lot of food trends and much more heightened awareness by the public regarding what they’re eating. I always get asked lots of questions regarding food.

I am regularly asked what is the most popular chophouse steak; The one that eats the best and has the best value. From my years of experience I am going to try and answer some of the most basic questions when it comes to a good cut!

The most commonly asked question is “what is the best steak”?

Grain or grass fed? Select, choice or prime? Dry aged or wet aged? Natural or organic? What does all this mean???

The only way one would ever really know what the subtle differences are is to try each and every cut, cooked exactly the same way.

So you can see how complex this really is: The New York is cut out of the Strip loin.

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STORY BY .%), +2!-%2 s 0(/4/3 BY DEANO MUELLER

Filet is out of the tenderloin. Rib eye is from the prime rib and Porterhouse, the best of both worlds is from the strip AND the tenderloin!

The next question is what’s the reason for select, choice or prime graded beef? It helps to set high standards to produce a really consistent product. The only place you’ll find this high quality product is chophouses, fine dining restaurants, and specialty butcher shops. The result is a flavor profile that is second to none.

I find the flavor and texture of natural and organic beef just doesn’t seem to compare with the mid-western products. My favorite grades are prime and choice. From what I’ve seen and for the best value, you can’t beat the flavor profile of grain fed, corn finished Black Angus steers that are coming out of the Midwest.

The difference between prime and choice is simple. They’re all the same cows. Prime is just fed corn for a few extra months to fatten them up which in turn, creates that famous marbling effect. That’s what creates the best flavor. Flavor is in the fat!

Which brings us to the last question...

When it comes to prime or choice which cuts are the most flavorful and gives you the best value? t The New York: Prime You can’t beat it! In this cut, the marbling is most apparent. t The Filet: Choice You can’t taste the difference because there’s no fat in the tenderloin, so don’t waste your money. t Rib eye: Choice It’s already a well-marbled cut; I don’t need more fat on my rib eye. t Porterhouse: Prime If you see a prime porter house Run...Don’t walk Share it with a friend and eat!! It doesn’t get any better than this.

I highly suggest guests always try different cuts and grades. Find a flavor profile that works for you!

The relentless pursuit of the best products available, then presenting them with the least amount of damage is our passion at Cafe 14.

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D L SO

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