DEEP Surf Magazine 2012 January February

Page 1

RINCON CLASSIC PROGRAM

Page 1 Cover

Rincon Classic History DEEPZINE.COM

/ Graham

Cary Dean Photo Essay January~February 2012 • Volume 7 / No. 1

Arabian Hollows

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First light. Travis Stassart, north Malibu. PHOTO: STASSART

COVER SHOT Trevor Gordon in the sweet spot at Rastas with lots of room to spare and a long section ahead. Photo by Alan van Gysen

EL DIRECTOR:

Andres Nuño EDITOR:

Chuck Graham GRAPHIC DESIGN:

Danielle Siano www.daniellesiano.com PHOTO CORRECTION:

David Levine SALES:

Carrie Bethurem carrie@deepzine.com Chris Langley chris.l@deepzine.com

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS:

Craig Comen Nicole de Leon Derek Dodds Glenn Dubock Chuck Graham Dan Hamlin Terry Houston Chris Keet Michael Kew L. Paul Mann Evan Mendelson Kara Petersen Jon Shafer Shawn Tracht

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS:

Chris Burkard Fletcher Burton Cary Dean Michael Delanzo

Derek Dodds Glenn Dubock Chuck Graham Lori Graham Alan van Gysen Michael Kew Houston L. Paul Mann Jeff Pfost David Pu’u Seth de Roulet Jon Shafer Thomas Slater Travis Stassart Bill Tover Shawn Tracht ASP / Cestari via Getty Images

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2012

PUBLISHER:

Michael VanStry ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER:

Gary L. Dobbins

GENERAL INQUIRIES & SUBMISSIONS:

info@deepzine.com

SUPPORTING STAFF:

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Letter from the Editor ������������������������ 10

22

News ������������������������������������������������������� 12 Tide Chart ���������������������������������������������� 12 Tidelines ������������������������������������������������� 14 Northern Exposure ����������������������������� 15 Dropping In On Sage Erickson ���������������������������������������������20

Comen Sense ��������������������������������������� 32

CARY DEAN

JON SHAFER / SANTABARBARASURFER.COM

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Ladies Room Demi Boelsterli ����������������������������������������� 34

Board Trachting M.d.s.* “The Nickel” ������������������������������� 35

Surf Shop Down Low Beach House �������������������������������������������� 36

Music and Entertainment ����������������� 48 Green Room ����������������������������������������� 50 ALAN VAN GYSEN

Final Frames ��������������������������������� 52, 54

BILL TOVER

FEATURES 16 RINCON CLASSIC Story by Chuck Graham Photos by Dubock.com, Bill Tover, Jon Shafer The Rincon Classic turns 29. From the days of Jeff White and Roger Nance running the contest, to the festive vibe the contest now has under the helm of Chris Keet, the Rincon Classic still remains a locals-only contest.

22 CARY DEAN PHOTO ESSAY Story by Chuck Graham Underwater photographer specialist Cary Dean shares his aquatic world with us. Dean has traveled the world and enjoys venturing out of his everyday life to get up close and personal with nature.

38 ARABIAN HOLLOWS Story by Michael Kew Photos by Alan van Gysen Globetrotter Michael Kew travels to the pillars of Lakshadweep with Trevor Gordon and Chad Konig. Aside from picture perfect barrels, they find out about bin Laden’s death as well. South African photographer Alan van Gysen captures it all.

46 FIFTH FIN NUBSTER CATCHING ON Story by Shawn Tracht Photos by Tracht, Michael Delanzo, Bill Tover Sean Mattison introduces his fifth fin nub to Kelly Slater and the rest of the world. Tracht uses his uncanny descriptive writing to put the use of the fifth fin in layman terms.

27 RINCON CLASSIC PROGRAM DEEP Surf Magazine teamed up with Surf Happens to provide a program for the 29th annual Quiksilver Rincon Classic presented by Channel Islands Surfboards. You will find a Q&A with last year’s Pro champion Mike McCabe by Terry Houston, and we asked five questions to longtime Rincon local Don Campbell and new ripper Sean Woods. An artist bio on Rick Tontz, and a schedule of events and more information on the contest.

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2012


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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR January/February 2012 Volume 7, Issue 1

THE SANDBAR had morphed into a swooping triangle over the summer, where an A-frame peak was gathering consistency rifling off like some gritty wave machine. It was Jan. 1, 1994, and I knew it would be good, so I stayed clear of any New Year’s Eve debauchery and banked on everyone else’s demise. I banked right. At first light I was on it beneath a high ceiling of clouds. It was 4- to 5-foot, light offshore and hollow. I’m sure every surfer has had sessions alone where they wished they had someone else to surf with and share the magic. That was the furthest thing from my mind. It was at least two hours before anyone had got a whiff of what I was experiencing since the new year began. I was in rhythm with the sets backdooring the A-frame with little effort, some-

times nabbing two waves per set. All I thought about was how good it was to be a surfer. Memories like that can last a long time. Working on our fifth year here at DEEP, we’re publishing the memories made by our writers and photographers and their subjects each issue. You, the readers, share in those memories made, here on the Central and South coasts and beyond. Let’s hope this winter is chock-full of them. You can start with this issue of DEEP where Michael Kew writes about his travels to India and the first memories made by young surfers at their inaugural Rincon Classic.

LORI GRAHAM

Enjoy.

Chuck Graham

WHO’S ON BOARD? ALAN VAN GYSEN Photographer “Alan van Gysen is one of South Africa’s most respected surf photographers. With an inextinguishable drive and natural flair he has spent the past 12 years carving his mark into the local and international scene. Alan’s style is unmistakable. Preferring to shoot from the water, he feeds off his subject’s energy, bringing his personal perspective to the moment and creating a tailored fusion of motion, time, and space.” – Brendon Bosworth

DANIELLE SIANO Graphic Designer Danielle is much too young to claim 17 years of experience in graphic design– yet, that is the truth. A Florida native, her designs have been carefully woven throughout the Santa Barbara community since her arrival in 2003. Today, as a freelance artist with a genuine love for nature’s extremes, she enjoys her time both behind the computer and away from the screen with friends.

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2012

CARY DEAN Photographer A California native now living a nomadic life traveling the world working as a freelance photographer specializing in “People, Places, and Wild Things” Cary Dean is Fulfilling his dream of experiencing the worlds cultures and wildlife. His travels have taken him from remote villages of Asia to pristine reefs and jungles and some of the worlds largest cities. He sees every adventure as a way to share his vision through imagery. “I can’t imagine it possible to not become a bit of a naturalist, conservationist and humanitarian when you venture out of your everyday life and interact with the people, creatures and nature you encounter. Those are the experiences that shape our character and cause us to care about the world around us.” DAVID LEVINE Photo Corrector David completed a semester at Herron School of Art and Design in Indianapolis, IND. before moving to Santa Barbara to study at Brooks Institute of Photography. He focuses mainly on portrait photography but incorporates nature photography into practically everything he does. He describes his style as surreal. “My favorite part of making an image is the postprocess, which is what interested me in retouching for DEEP Surf magazine. “


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News

Kieren Perrow pulling off another late drop at Pipeline. This one at backdoor on his way to his first Pipe Masters and ASP victory.

DOUBLE TAKE By Chuck Graham

I

N UNUSUAL FASHION Kelly Slater won his unprecedented 11th ASP World Championship in good 3- to 6-foot surf at the Rip Curl Pro Search at Ocean Beach in San Francisco on Nov. 2. Initially needing to advance out of round 3 to win the title, ASP officials miscalculated the final tally of points. Instead the Floridian had to come back the next morning and either win round 4 or 5 to officially seal the deal. Wasting no time,

SUN 01

MON 02

TUE 03

10:48 1.81 4:04 2.78

11:57 1.29 5:49 2.8

12:45 0.76 6:58 2.98

WED 04

5:47 1.23

JANUARY 2012 Tide Chart Ventura, CA

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2012

5.21 0.29

THU 05

6:25 1:56

5.49 -0.11

Slater did so in round 4, beating eventual Rip Curl Pro champion, Brazilian upstart, 17-year-old Gabriel Medina. At nearly 40 years of age, Slater shows no signs of slowing down, appearing at the top of his game throughout 2011. His performance in the later rounds of the Billabong Pipe Masters, were Slateresque, and his semifinal loss to Australian Joel Parkinson should not have been missed.

FRI 06

7:00 2:27

5.76 -0.44

SAT 07

7:34 2:57

5.98 -0.69

SUN 08

8:08 3.27

6.13 -0.84

MON 09

8:43 3:58

6.16 -0.89

TUE 10

9:19 4:30

6.05 -0.81

Newly crowned Pipe Master Kieren Perrow was the biggest charger in pumping conditions, pulling off ridiculous late drops and big barrels at Pipe and Backdoor. Perrow was the runner-up at the Pipe Masters a year ago. From the second round on there was no denying his commitment for the much coveted Gerry Lopez trophy. Among the surfers to watch in 2012 on the men’s side of things, you have to wonder what

WED 11

9:57 5:03

5.77 -0.59

THU 12

FRI 13

10:39 5.31 5:37 -0.23

11:27 4.69 6:14 0.24

SAT 14

SUN 15

6:57 6:55

8:26 1:50

1.78 0.79

WSURF.COM TIDE CHART

1.59 3.26


News

Forever Stoked Hosts Winter Art Show

H

OMEGROWN surf art collective, Forever Stoked, will host their Winter Art Show on Saturday, February 11, at their newly opened retail shop and art gallery in Morro Bay. For over 13 years, the grassroots collective and online art shop, www.foreverstoked.com, has operated out of the garage of founding artists Charlie Clingman and Chris Pedersen. With humble beginnings as a surf greeting card operation, Forever Stoked has evolved into to a sizeable online gallery and iconic surf/art collective. New artwork by Clingman, Pedersen, Pete Pierce and others will be on display. Additionally, the latest limited edition prints, cards, Forever Stoked apparel, hats and jewelry will also be available. The art show will be from 5 to 10 p.m. at the Forever Stoked retail store located at 1164 Quintana Road in Morro Bay. For more information visit foreverstoked.com or call (805) 722-9095.

Kelly’s championship barrell up in San Fran. PHOTO: THOMAS SLATER.

Ventura’s Dane Reynolds will do after an injuryplagued 2011 campaign? And can Conner Coffin continue to climb the ladder in the ASP Junior Men World Ranking and make eventual strides toward qualifying. On the women’s side of things, locals Sage Erickson and Lakey Peterson both qualified for the 2012 ASP Women’s World Tour. Can one of them snatch a world title and bring back to the 805?

MON 16

10:04 1.13 3:47 2.88

TUE 17

11:27 0.47 5:38 2.97

WED 18

12:29 -0.2 6:52 3.29

THU 19

5:48 1:20

6.03 -0.76

FRI 20

6:40 2:03

6.34 -1.14

11 and counting? PHOTO: ASP / CESTARI

SAT 21

7:27 2:43

6.51 -1.33

SUN 22

8:10 3:20

6.52 -1.32

MON 23

8:51 3:54

6.35 -1.13

TUE 24

9:30 4:27

6.01 -0.81

WED 25

10:07 5.52 4:58 -0.38

THU 26

FRI 27

10:45 4.93 5:28 0.13

11:24 4.26 5:57 0.68

WETSAND SURF SHOP 446 E MAIN ST. VENTURA Not to be used for navigation. Do not rely on data for decisions that can result in harm to anyone or anything.

SAT 28

6:42 6:25

1.8 1.23

SUN 29

7:57 1:09

1.87 2.93

MON 30

9:41 3:08

1.75 2.48

JANUARY 2012 Tide Chart Ventura, CA

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Tidelines

Smiling Swami Surf Story and Photos by Michael Kew

I

N INDIA, cameras are not rare. Surfers are. But one village’s worldfamous shore temple, nearly 1,500 years old, is one of the most beautiful, most romantic, and most-photographed things in the country. Of course there’s a nice little sandbar in front of it. Enter Smiling Surfing, a surf school and humanitarian aid a la Surf Aid International, but with a Spanish twist. The team flew from Madrid to Chennai, one of the world’s largest cities and the capital of the state of Tamil Nadu, on India’s southwest coast. From Chennai it was a hot onehour drive down to Mahabalipuram, an ancient port city of the South Indian dynasty of the Pallavas. Its historic monuments, built between the 7th and the 9th centuries, prompted UNESCO to designate Mahabalipuram as a World Heritage Site. “We chose Mahabalipuram because we knew there was a fun wave there, a big beach to teach surfing on, and many orphanages in the area,” photographer Victor González said. “We went there in October, which isn’t the best time for surf, but each day we had fun waves up to head-high.” Only problem was, every morning the local fishermen used the jetty as a toilet, so the water quality of the wave was literally crappy. You think Rincon has dirty water? Go to India, home to 1.2 billion people and more than 4,000 miles of coastline, all of it open to Indian Ocean energy, especially the states of Andhra Pradesh and Kerala. But for surfing purposes, the Tamil Nadu coast is mostly bland, windy beachbreak peppered

TM

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2012

Nothing like a crappy wave.

with small points, swell-shadowed by Sri Lanka. Still, the place is holding, especially in the far south. “I’ve always liked unusual destinations, places where you’re not sure if there are good waves,” González said. “Tamil Nadu is a huge zone of potential.” It was hit by the tsunami of Dec. 26, 2004, which dealt immense destruction and claimed thousands of lives. But it came as a blessing in disguise to Mahabalipuram, where the underwater remnants of an ancient port city were briefly exposed—like rocks are during a negative low tide— when the ocean receded before the tsunami hit. Fishermen insisted that they saw the remains of temples and dozens of refrigerator-sized stone blocks before the sea covered them again. Onshore, the tsunami removed six feet of sand, exposing pieces of ancient sculptures, including a granite lion, an elephant, and a horse, which for centuries had been buried. Not to make light of tragedy, archaeologists were stoked. “All over town there was a feeling that the sea and the waves were bad,” Smiling Surfing founder Ion Eizaguirre said. “We showed surfing “We showed surfing to to the people, how much fun it was, the people, how much and their mind-set changed. It was fun it was, and their another small step for them to overmind-set changed. It was come the horror of the tsunami.” The Smiling Surfing posse another small step for alighted to legitimately poor vilthem to overcome the lages to further spread the goodwill, horror of the tsunami.” improving the living conditions in several orphanages, hosting official “cleaning days,” hygiene meetings, medical checkups, dispersing clothing, books, and pencils for school, showing art, playing music, and staging gym classes. The guys also delivered nearly 8,000 pounds of rice to the mostneedy villages, doled out to each family in 45-pound increments, which was equivalent to a month of food. On top of all that, to the kids, the Spaniards introduced the stoke of surfing. Eizaguirre and crew donated 15 new surfboards to India’s Mantra Surf Club in an attempt to spread surfing amongst more Indians, considering the success of surf lessons in destitute villages. Mantra uses the boards to teach local kids how to surf and also rents them to anyone who wants to sample India’s waves, which from May to September can offer fun aplenty. “India is an amazing country,” González said, “and it’s a good option for a not-so-typical trip surf. You can enjoy the culture, the smells, the religions, the colors, the life in the street, the food, and perhaps some barrels! India is a place that everybody should visit, and why not go with a surfboard?”


Northern Exposure

Winter Is In The Air By Dan Hamlin

T

PHOTO: CHRIS BURKARD

Hamlin tucked in after hours of driving..

car and began to drive away I rolled down my window for a second. That’s when I smelled it again, crisp and invigorating. It was winter, and I was content.

Rincon Designs “CLOSEST SHOP TO THE CON”

DUBOCK.COM

HE CRISP, COOL, WINTER AIR somehow brought a sense of comfort as we made our way down the trail to get a look at the waves. There is something special about wintertime along the Central Coast; it’s something I look forward to every year. This particular morning I could smell it in the air. I can’t put my finger on it but somehow the air seems different in the winter, perhaps cleaner, yet harsher. It didn’t matter that the sun was out; it was still cold. Mornings like this one remind me why I live here. Though finding quality waves on the Central Coast can be a maddening affair, some of nature’s finest work is always on display right here in our own backyard. I could feel the crisp offshore winds on my back as we watched a few waves peel off devoid of riders. Winter tends to thin out the lineups, many not wanting to put up with the water temps that hover around 50 this time of year. The empty lineup was enticing, but the lackluster waves and a sense that somewhere else might be better kept us pushing on. My friend Kim Diggs was staying with me, and I was on a mission to get her some decent waves. For the most part all we had scored on her visit were ice cream headaches and waist-high waves. But Diggs is a trooper, not one to let small waves get her down. So we kept driving. A talented surfer from the East Coast, Diggs wanted to experience some of the natural beauty of this place. I promised her it would be worth it. As we drove north, the cityscape turned to rolling hills and ranchland interspersed with oaks and pines. I knew if the waves didn’t cooperate then at least the beauty wouldn’t disappoint. So we drove. “Is it sharky out there?” Diggs asked as we got out our wetsuits. “Uh, I’ve never seen one, but yeah, it is.” I answered. She just smirked, “I thought so.” How do you tell someone that the spot you are about to surf has a minor shark factor? I figured I’d wait until after we were done so it wouldn’t be on her mind the whole session. But it was one of those spots that feels sharky, as so many spots do along this stretch of coastline. Perhaps that is one of the draws; it’s untamed, undeveloped, fairly untouched as far as coastlines in California go these days. The bite of winter PHOTO: CHRIS BURKARD seemed only to add to Hiking in to an empty lineup. the experience, making nature’s presence felt even more. I pulled my beanie down and headed back to the car. We’d checked probably a dozen spots before we ended up here, at this ordinary beach break, only to surf for about an hour. We’d end up spending more time in the car than in the water this day. As we loaded our gear in the

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Kilian Garland carving his way to one of his six Rincon Classic championships. PHOTO: BILL TOVER.

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2012


Left: During the last couple of years, the Quiksilver Rincon Classic has taken on a festive vibe. PHOTO: JON SHAFER.

Right: At center, Steve Dwyer congratulates David Pu’u on his 1981 Rincon Classic championship. PHOTO: BILL TOVER.

The World’s

Greatest Little Surf Contest

The Rincon Classic By Chuck Graham It’s not often that we find ourselves surfing Rincon virtually alone; it’s a freak occurrence at best. On the rare occasion a surf forecaster might miss a sneaker swell from the west, maybe Highway 101 is closed from the east, or we capitalize on a post-storm swell that keeps most at home due to the heavy runoff spewing out of the river mouth. However, I’m talking about surfing a 20-minute heat at the Rincon Classic. The lineup is relatively clear of non-contestants (except in 2004), and it’s just four jersey-clad competitors surfing empty, ruler-edged lines off the top of Indicator. What is it about surf contests in fantastic waves? The caliber of surfing is potentially great, the vibe reverberating on the beach. That could be the

scenario at any surf spot that hosts an event, but when it’s a point break with a long-standing reputation for memorable moments and long, legburning rides like Rincon Del Mar, the possibilities abound. In the case of Rincon, it’s only the locals that experience that feeling. The Classic is closing in on its 29th year of running, and during that span the Queen of the Coast has stayed true to herself, never wavering to outside influences looking to infiltrate her local feel and corrupt the community involvement felt all along the famous cobbled point. It’s tough enough to run surf contests, with their oodles of logistics to wade through, but try it with 70-something homeowners living on arguably the best point break in California. Getting permission for an event

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The Rincon Classic was originally hatched by the late Jeff White. PHOTO: BILL TOVER.

A really young Conner Coffin competing in the best Rincon Classic conditions in 2004. PHOTO: DUBOCK.COM.

Brian Aresco setting up for a glassy one in 2009. PHOTO: BILL TOVER.

Soon to be a rookie on the World Tour, Lakey Petersen cuts her teeth at the 2011 Rincon Classic. PHOTO: DUBOCK.COM


Joe Curren slashing in the 2003 Rincon Classic. PHOTO: BILL TOVER.

Colin Schildhauer negotiating tricky SE winds. PHOTO: JON SHAFER.

with a national or international flavor would be a tough sell to the Rincon enclave. But that’s the beauty and reality of the Rincon Classic, a unique, once-a-year, locals-only event. WHITE OWL VISION

The late Jeff White had already run a couple of low key local contests out of his White Owl Surf Shop along Pleasure Point in Santa Cruz in the early 1960s, and was aching to get something off the ground when White’s Surf ‘n’ Wear shops opened in Santa Barbara and Goleta in 1965. “Jeff and I were hashing this out in the back of the surf shop one day,” recalled Roger Nance, White’s former surf shop manager and now owner of the Beach House in Santa Barbara. “We thought, ‘What about Rincon?’ It was kind of scary with the homeowners, but I lived on the point at the time and knew some people. I didn’t want any impact on the point and convinced them we’d keep the contest small and leave the beach cleaner than when we found it.” In 1979 the first Rincon Classic went off without a hitch. The inaugural contest saw about 50 to 60 surfers competing in tiny, uninspiring kneehigh waves. It didn’t matter though. The scene was set for a long run of successful Classics. “Davey Smith won the first one,” remembered Nance. “He was the only one who knew how to surf those kinds of waves.” White, Nance and company ran the Classic up until 1994. Then a short hiatus ensued, the contest was put on hold until 1996. DODGING THE BIG STAGE

When you think about it, all the big name surf spots in California have at least endured a U.S. Pro event of some sort, and many of those same iconic locales have hosted International Professional Surfing (IPS) and/or Association of Surfing Professional (ASP) contests at various levels. All except Rincon. Ocean Beach, Steamer Lane, Malibu, Huntington Beach Pier, Lower Trestles, Cardiff by the Sea, and many other breaks have seen towers of scaffolding rising from the sand and throngs of onlookers at the water’s edge. That’s not to say Nance didn’t feel the push by companies within the surfing industry to run a larger, more substantial event at Rincon. “Gotcha and OP sponsored the contest for years,” he said. “Gotcha wanted a bigger event open to all surfers.” Nance always instinctively talked his way out of it, citing wary hom-

Kim Mearig being interviewed by Michael Tomson in the early ‘80s. PHOTO: BILL TOVER.

eowners, tricky permits and always keeping it local. “I would say to Gotcha, ‘You can make it as big as you want, but it’s got to stay with local surfers.’” When I posed the question to long-time ASP World Tour Manager, Al Hunt, who was between tour events, he replied, “Good question, probably because of permit problems like with Malibu,” he said. “However that may not be the case, and it could be just no one has opted for an event that far north of LA.” NEXT WAVE

Chris Keet was just a young grommet when White and Nance were in the midst of their run of Rincon Classics. Years later Keet was running his own surf series through his Surf Happens Surf School and was keen to bring back the Rincon Classic and add it to his series of local surf contests. He eventually approached Nance about taking it on. “Chris was doing a good job running his own contests,” said Nance. “I encouraged him, though, to run just the Rincon contest because of the work involved.” Eventually Keet bagged his surf series and focused strictly on the Rincon Classic. Nance helped Keet run the first one in ’96 in beautiful conditions. Along with facilitating its rebirth, Keet has brought in Quiksilver and Channel Islands Surfboards to sponsor the event over the last decade. He has also introduced computerized scoring and live stream viewing in 2009 and 2010. Water patrol, more divisions and as long a waiting period as the Eddie and Mavs contests, have also been important additions to the two-day contest. “The Rincon Classic has always been an iconic event in Santa Barbara,” says Keet. “When I took it over there was a whole new era of surfers in it.” Former ASP World Champions Tom Curren and Kim Mearig competed in the Rincon Classic and now are watching their kids compete in the contest. Curren still surfs in it today. And still there’s a push from the outside to take the Rincon Classic beyond the local realm. Keet said last year he received entries from surfers in Hawaii, Texas and even as far away as France. “We have to hand-pick the local entries,” he said. “I’ve heard a rumor that Rip Curl has inquired about running an event.” But for now, the Rincon Classic will continue to be something special to those lucky enough to surf in it. 

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Dropping In On SAGE ERICKSON

Sage Erickson Primed and Ready for the WCT Story and Photos by Terry Houston

V

ENTURA NATIVE Sage Erickson has been on surfing’s radar for a long time, and this year she qualified for the most elite contest tour in professional surfing, the World Championship Tour (WCT). Erickson has been coming painfully close to qualifying for the CT the last two years on the World Qualifying Series (WQS). She missed qualifying by two spots the first year and by one spot last year. This year, Erickson finally made it to the big leagues by finishing fourth on the ASP Women’s World Rankings. Luckily I got a chance to catch up with her while in Santa Cruz for the Cold Water Classic to get her thoughts on her huge achievement. When I asked Erickson how she felt about finally qualifying for the tour, her initial response said it all, “I’m over the moon right now; it’s been a long year and it feels so good to have all my hard work pay off.” She then went on to explain the toll that the contest grind can take on a young surfer. “Competition is so consuming emotionally and physically. The wear and tear on your body, always flying and in transit definitely has an impact on your condition. It’s something that we surfers have to adapt to. This year I focused on my equipment, mental preparation and fitness.” Besides all the hassle of travel, surfing in competition is a unique challenge.

team rider.

noah erickson lifts off with Carnitas Tacos

Burritos ~ Chimichangas Fajitas ~ Nachos Quesadillas ~ Soups 1860 Ventura Blvd., Camarillo Tacos ~ Tostadas (805) 484-5566 • OlasMexGrill.com Huge Beer Selection Facebook: Olas Mex Grill Weekend Breakfast PHOTO BY HOUSTON

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2012

Erickson banking hard towards the WCT. The sport is not only demanding in physical terms, but it also has a huge mental aspect as well. Training and making sure you are prepared for all conditions and circumstances is hugely critical to contest surfing; this is something that Erickson has learned and is taking very serious. “My preparation has so much to do with my success this year. I never really understood how much goes into competitive surfing. I’ve committed to training at a high performance personal training gym called P3 in Santa Barbara, and it has helped so much.” In Erickson’s eyes, confidence plays a key role, “Going into a heat you need every bit of confidence; you have to know that you can beat your opponent. That will and drive comes from the extra work outside of that 25 minute heat.” Qualifying for the elite world tour is a feat in itself and in many ways legitimizes a surfer’s status among pro surfing’s most outspoken critics. But once you get to the big stage, the next step is being able to stay on and make the cut. Consistency and longevity are critical challenges, that all new world tour surfers face. I asked Erickson what her strategy will be to make sure she stays on the tour she worked so hard to get on, and if there is anything different that she might incorporate into her routine. “My routine before and after a contest has become habitual, it doesn’t take too much effort to stay on my game. I attend church every Sunday that I’m home, which really encourages a balanced life pertaining to my relationships and emotions.” With her mental and emotional game tight, all that’s left, is physical health and of course getting out in the water and surfing. “Working out keeps me light and fit, ready for surfing any condition. California doesn’t always have the best surf, so being fit helps make small inconsistent waves a bit easier to surf. Staying light on my feet helps me surf fast when the wave is slow. All these elements, which always need practice, come into play while surfing. Also, I just really enjoy the sport.” When it comes down to it, a surfer just loves to surf, and Erickson fits that mold. She has great natural talent, a good understanding of what it takes to be a competitive surfer, and most importantly, the heart and dedication to tough it out when the contest circuit gets rough. Erickson is officially a world tour surfer, and we all look forward to seeing what she has in store on professional surfing’s biggest stage.


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PHOTO ESSAY

DEEP Blue

Cary Dean T

O SAY Cary Dean has immersed himself in his photography is an understatement, especially when you take into account his extensive diving experience and the images he captures beneath the sea. Influenced by the late, great ocean explorer Jacques Cousteau, Dean has been diving since 1992, exploring extensively the underwater world of the Channel Islands National Park. Classes in undersea photography followed at Brooks Institute of Photography; he traded in his spear gun a long time ago, and has been hunting with a camera ever since. “Most of my diving is in search of specific photographic subjects worldwide,” said Dean. Worldwide indeed. After living and photographing in California, Washington, New Mexico and Colorado, Dean is now based in Asia, moving around Southeast Asia, Japan, Indonesia, the South Pacific and Micronesia. For now he’s shooting stock and working on personal projects in Indonesia, another on sharks and an ongoing project in Santa Barbara. “My favorite subjects are big animals and the adrenaline rush you get when an animal that could have you for lunch chooses not to,” he continued, “also people and various cultures.” Dean works with Canon cameras and lenses with focal lengths ranging from 8- to 600-millimeters. For his underwater photography, he uses Subal Underwater Housings, Zen Domeports and Inon Underwater Strobes. It’s a competitive field out there, and Dean understands the most challenging part of photography is the business side of things. He says the biggest secret in photography is that it’s about 10 percent photography; the other 90 percent is business and locating work. “The hardest part of being a professional photographer is getting and keeping clients and getting them to pay you in a timely manner,” said Dean. “But I do love what I do.” To see more of Dean’s photography, go to www.carydeanphoto.com. – Chuck Graham

Gray and blacktip reef sharks. Yap Micronesia.

Juvenile garibaldi in kelpbed. Channel Islands.

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2012


Fringehead on reef. Channel Islands.

Grunts on reef. Palau Micronesia W W W.DEEPZINE.COM

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Manta ray. Palau Micronesia.

Raining jellyfish. Palau Micronesia.

Kiteboarders on a windy day. Northern California.

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2012

Rock arch. Palau Micronesia.


PHOTO ESSAY: DEAN

Great white shark. Isla de Guadalupe, Mexico.

Manatee. Florida. W W W.DEEPZINE.COM

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PHOTO ESSAY: DEAN

Turtle. Palau Micronesia.

Harbor seal on rock. Monterey Bay.

Humpback tail fluke. Tonga.

Mola mola. Santa Barbara Channel..

Santa Barbara Harbor.

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2012


QUIKSILVER

PRESENTED BY CHANNEL ISLANDS SURFBOARDS

Demi Boelsterli slashing at the rincon classic.

PHOTO: DUBOCK.COM


RINCON CLASSIC

GUIDE

Adam Lambert.

PHOTO: TOVER

Tarik Khashoggi.

PHOTO: TOVER

Andrew Bennett.

PHOTO: TOVER

Unknown surfer.

PHOTO: DUBOCK.COM

Welcome to the 2012 Rincon Classic Stars shining brightly in the pre-dawn sky, the sounds of crashing waves detonating in the dark, the cool morning tradewinds blowing offshore through the rivermouth into the empty lineup, coffee being swigged while the final preparations are made for yet another Rincon Classic to begin. Twelve years, a dozen collections of 365 days gone by, lifetimes lived. Somehow, the excitement and emotions of this incredible journey, the sights, sounds, and nostalgia, are nearly the same, even as the times of life change. My dawn patrols now commonly begin between 3:30 and 4:30 a.m. with the rousing cries of my six-month-old son, Maddox James. After an hour we take a walk to check the waves and watch the sun rise. Meanwhile, men and women in their early- to mid-20s, who were children when I began running the Rincon Classic are finding their way in the world. The generation that I grew up with are now the adults. It is so exciting to see where everyone heads on their life’s path and the Classic brings us all together to catch up every year. Where else can you watch your pastor (Britt Merrick), take the top off of a beautiful set wave? What other lineups feature world champions, WQS standouts and future title contenders, all of whom you know personally? Not many, but for all those that participate in this event and surf Rincon on every swell, this is where we are raised and the place we call home. Welcome to the 2012 Quiksilver Rincon Classic presented by Channel Islands Surfboards. The 29th annual event’s first waiting weekend is right around the corner on January 21 and 22. The vision of Surf Happens is to bring a world class surfing competition to California’s premier point break while preserving the original ideals of the Rincon Classic as a locals only, communitybased event. Through community and sponsorship support, we have built the Rincon Classic from the roots up, now featuring computerized scoring, live commentating, ASP judges, an all star local water patrol, a professional division, an expression session, and more. In addition, contestants are treated to free food and drinks, massage and chiropractic care as well as a professional trainer and warm up area. By combining these details with a six-week waiting period and a crew of world class surfers who call our area home, we aim to bring the 29 th annual 2012 Quiksilver Rincon Classic to new heights. Through contest proceeds we are raising funds for the Surf Happens Foundation and First Descents, our charitable partners, in an effort to share the healing powers of the ocean with youth and young adult cancer survivors. Camp Healing Wave is our joint endeavor with partners The Teddy Bear Foundation and Hugs For Cubs to host free week-long surf camps for local children afflicted by cancer in the summer of 2012.

Chris Keet Rincon Classic Organizer

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE July/August 2011

EVENT H­IGHLIGHTS: • Quiksilver & Roxy Wetsuit Demos • Local Surfboard Demos. Al Merrick/Channel Islands Surfboards, Jason Feist/J7 Surfboards, and Matt Moore/Rincon Designs. • Arbor Skateboard Demos • Organic trophies: All finalists will receive 2012 Quiksilver Rincon Classic belt buckle trophies, with first place finishers taking home customized Full Circle Drums. • Time Lapse Web Cast & Event Highlights: We have teamed up with Josh Pomer and Post Modern Surfer to create daily highlight packages, and heats on demand for all finals. Log on to rinconclassic.com to catch all the action. • Santa Barbara Surfer is documenting the event and shooting every heat for your viewing pleasure. Online at www.santabarbarasurfer.com. • Competitors Area: Alki Wellness center will provide on site chiropractic and massage care. Indo Boards for warming up, stretching matts, bean bags and water. • Live Commentating & Computerized Scores • Independent: Classic Lines. The Independent to dig up historical trivia from years past and share Classic Lines with the beach. • Expression Session • Red Bull Airshow • The Professional Division • Online Raffle & Event Raffle. Win custom Channel Islands Surfboards, Quiksilver Wetsuits and apparel, Arbor Skateboards, Indo Boards, Red Bull, Teva Shoes, and much more. For more information log on to rinconclassic.com.

BE GREEN TO THE QUEEN Our goal is to perserve and protect the beauty of Rincon Point for current and future generations to enjoy. The mission is to leave her cleaner than we found her, and properly manage the waste that is created through the event. Through your support, and that of our waste management team from Green Project Consultants, we have been able to divert over 90% of all waste from area landfills over the past five years. The mission is to REDUCE, REUSE, and RECYCLE. All contestants receive an organic re-usable bag courtesy of Surf Happens, and fresh cool water will be served from large iced up containers at the Water Station all weekend. In an effort to spread awareness, we have partnered with area non-profits to help educate the public on simple solutions to pollution, and ways to get involved in grassroots activism. Look for Green Booths from the Surf Happens Foundation, Surfers Without Borders, Surfrider, and The Quiksilver Foundation, and participate in our daily beach clean ups and get your green on!

GREEN TIPS • • • • • • • •

Bring your re-usable mug for coffee and drink tin for water Dispose of waste and recyclables in proper containers Carpool to the contest Participate in our daily beach clean ups to keep RC12 pristine. Saturday at noon, Sunday noon and 3 p.m. Ride your bike to the contest Use designated restrooms Stay off of the natural foliage Keep dogs on leashes, and clean up after your pet


Defending Pro Division Champ

PHOTO: DUBOCK.COM

Mike McCabe By Terry Houston & Evan Mendelson Rincon is special. Surfers from far and wide make the trip each winter to pay homage to the Queen of the Coast in a ritual that mimics a Muslim’s pilgrimage to Mecca—the crowds are similar too. That’s why the Rincon Classic is really special. Last year’s Pro division winner Mike McCabe has an intimate understanding of just how true this is. Growing up just down the coast in Ventura’s Pierpont, McCabe is on it nearly every day it breaks. “It’s one of the best waves in the world … you never get to surf it with only four guys out.” The rare opportunity to share the Queen’s benevolence with so few people places the Rincon Classic among the most prestigious of California surf contests. This will be McCabe’s fourth year competing at the Rincon Classic, and he knows it won’t be easy to repeat as champion. “I think the competition is great … everyone is ripping and dropping high scores. It makes it a really exciting event to surf in.” A glass half-filled type of guy, he added, “I’m going to try my best and hopefully it goes my way. But if not, it was fun to just surf the Con with three other guys out.”

He isn’t the only McCabe who rips. “Growing up, competing and surfing with my brother has probably affected my surfing more than anything. Matt and I are really competitive against each other, but we both want to see each other succeed in everything that we do. If I lose early in a competition I always want him to win, and if he loses he always wants me to win. We both surf completely differently so we can give each other advice on our weak points.” Ventura is a tight knit surfing community that has bred a lot of talent throughout the years. “Growing up in Ventura has influenced me as a surfer immensely,” he says. “There are many talented surfers from this area who help push me to be a better surfer. We have a tight crew of friends that we travel to comps, surf, shoot, and hang out with on a daily basis. We all grew up in the same neighborhood and have known each other for basically our whole lives, and we have a variety of different waves in Ventura, from beach breaks to point breaks and even some reef breaks.” Since last year’s Rincon Classic victory, McCabe has stayed busy with various surf pursuits. He has been

Q & A

DEEP writers asked one of Rincon’s longest tenured locals and of its youngest groms five Rincon Classic questions.

Don Cambpell

Story & Photo by Glenn Dubock Don Campbell has been surfing Rincon for over 40 years and has been a regular finalist in the Grandmasters and Legends divisions the last few years. I caught up with Campbell not far from Rincon, just up the road in Carpinteria where he runs a landscaping business. DEEP: What do you think your chances of repeating are? Donn Campbell: Not too good for Grandmasters; too many really good surfers in that division now. But just like my current Legends division—I am 59 so I qualify I guess—it really depends on catching the best waves in your heat and that sometimes is just luck. DEEP: What is the coolest thing about surfing the Rincon Classic? DC: The sense of community and seeing everybody celebrate and appreciate how special Rincon is. Everyone in the contest wants to win, but everyone is stoked for whoever does win. DEEP: How many Classics have you surfed in? DC: I was in the Classics in the ’80’s when Surf ‘n’ Wear ran them and then again when Chris (Keet) started them again. I have missed a few so I don’t really know. Twelve or more?

competing in surf contests up and down the California coast and did a summertime trip down to Mexico where he scored some great surf. “If I could travel anywhere in the world it would probably be Barra. The first time I saw footage of it, it reminded me of a hollower version of Rincon with the added bonus of warm water.” Right now, McCabe is fine-tuning his equipment and working closely with Robert Weiner of Roberts Surfboards to get his boards dialed for Rincon’s long, fast walls. “Rob has been shaping me really good boards,” complimented McCabe. Beyond this winter and the Classic, McCabe is just having fun and seeing where surfing takes him. Before that though, you know he will do everything he can to court the Queen at this year’s Rincon Classic. He is sponsored by Fox, Electric, Pro Lite, Olas Mex Grill, Sector 9 and Roberts Surfboards.

Sean Woods

Story & Photo by Jon Shafer Sean Woods won the Gremlins (11 & under) Division at the Rincon Classic last year and I had the chance to catch up with the 12-year-old between sessions and school. DEEP: What do you think your chances are of repeating are? Sean Woods: I hope to win, or at least make the finals. DEEP: What’s the coolest thing about surfing the Rincon Classic? SW: Surfing Rincon with no one out, and epic waves. DEEP: How many Classics have you surfed in? SW: Two. In 2010 it was my first contest ever and I was third place in the finals. Last year I won! DEEP: Who’s your favorite surfer at Rincon? SW: Bobby Martinez. DEEP: What’s your favorite section at Rincon? The Rivermouth, Indicator or the Cove? SW: The Cove.

DEEP: Who is your favorite surfer at Rincon? DC: If any of my kids, Jason, Lauren or Matt, are in the water with me then they are my favorites, or my brother Steve and my nephew Foster. Otherwise I could name a huge list of Rincon friends and Carp guys that rip. There are also lots of rippers who I don’t even know who they are. Best style masters would be Lauren Yater and Tony de Groot, just just to name a few. DEEP: What’s your favorite section at Rincon? Rivermouth, Indicator or Cove? DC: When it’s a foot or two overhead with a clean northwest direction with a medium tide dropping and you catch a big one from the top of Indicator, race into the Rivermouth and with all your speed from pumping into the Rivermouth section that starts to bend and you and stand up in the barrel. That’s the best! W W W.DEEPZINE.COM

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SIMA CLASSIC SUNDAY

The “Queen” in all her glory.. PHOTO: DAVID PU’U

Thank You Communities of Carpinteria, Santa Barbara, & Ventura California State Parks Rincon Homeowners association & residents: In particular: Debi Clark, Steve Halstead, Judy Meyers, The Taylor Family Town & Country Realty Roger Nance

Event Staff & Sponsors:

Jim Knell Scott Brittingham Todd Kline, Chad Wells, & the Quiksilver team Travis Lee, Tony Miller, & Channel Islands Surfboards Al & Terry Merrick Britt Merrick Michael Kew Jen Malkin, Ethan Stewart, & the Santa Barbara Independent Andres Nuño, Chuck Graham, & DEEP Surf Magazine Ryan Ashton & The Quiksilver Foundation Andrew Jacobsen & the Arbor Collective Jeff Lauer & Wahoo’s Eric Hamor Marcello & Tiago Portes Dave Schauber The Moore Family Tarik Khashoggi Judging staff

Staff: Shore Sheriff & Check In Mike & Alma Billgren Darryl Miya Tony Luna Heather King

Water Patrol:

Captain Tony Luna Travis Vogel Erik Laurabee Davis Brothers Danny Bralver Tarik Khashoggi Loren Luyendyk Doug Galati Skip Saenger Demi Boelsterli

Parking Guard: Scott Harden

Competitors Area:

Marc Grandle (Chiropractic) Alki Wellness Center Karen Grandle (Massage) Alki Wellness Center

Trophies:

Full Circle Drums Gold Mountain Trading Company Jaya Wave – John Birchim Skip Saenger

Announcing Staff: Chris Keet Brad Jay Dave Schauber Chris Brown Darryl Miya Adam Lambert

Waste Management:

Green Project Consultants – Tom & Alelia Oretsky

Set Up & Tear Down Crew Danny Rodriguez Evan Lamb Jermiah Esparza Mike Billgren Matt Coleman Christian Surfers

Photographers:

Jon Shafer: Santa Barbara Surfer Glenn Dubock Branden Aroyan Videographers: Josh Pomer – Post Modern Surfer

Volunteers:

Doug Galati Kailyn Noe Analiza Zungri Eden Schmidt Aubrey Falk Loren Luyendyk

Headlining Sponsors:

Quiksilver (platinum) Channel Islands Surfboards (Gold) Surf Happens, SIMA, SB Independent (Silver) Arbor, Red Bull, Teva (Bronze Sponsors)

2012 Quiksilver Rincon Classic Awards Ceremony Presented by Channel Islands Surfboards will take place Sunday, January 22 at the Santa Barbara Maritime Museum, 113 Harbor Way #119, Santa Barbara Harbor. (Subject to change along with event to subsequent Sundays thereafter). The 29th annual Rincon Classic awards ceremony is an all-ages event from 6:30 to 9:30 pm. All Rincon Classic participants, their families, friends, and the community are invited to attend. The ceremony honors all finalists and features a slideshow by Santa Barbara Surfer’s Jon Shafer, along with video highlights by Josh Pomer straight from the finals’ lineup. The event will have live music by the Groove Ons featuring Travers Adler and Johnny Mcann. Food by Wahoo’s, a raffle and silent auction will help raise funds for First Descents and the Surf Happens Foundations’ Camp Healing Wave. Contestants get in free. Guests pay $10 at the door. Includes raffle tickets and meal. Music by the Groove On............................................................ 6:30-7:00 p.m. Dinner By Wahoo’s......................................................................... 6:30-7:30 p.m. Slideshow & Video Highlights............................................... 6:30-7:15 p.m. Silent auction & Raffle................................................................. 6:30-7:30 p.m. FD & Camp Healing Wave videos.................................... 7:30-7:45 p.m. Awards Ceremony........................................................................... 7:45-9:00 p.m. Music by the Groove Ons.......................................................... 9:00-9:30 p.m.

Cobblestone Sponsors:

Santa Barbara Bank & Trust Brittingham Foundation Quiksilver Foundation Wahoo’s

Artist bio

Rick Tontz

Conributing Sponsors:

Alki Santa Barbara Surfer Indo Board Jensen’s Guitar Frooty Acai Pacific Coast Café Dubock.com Surf ‘n’ Wear Beach House Sex Wax Jaya Wave Low Tide Rising Surfline.com Mad Dogs Green Project Consultants Deep Surf Magazine Christian Surfers Santa Barbara Maritime Museum Mad Dogs Hot Spots & Caribbean Coffee

Rick Tontz created the 2012 Quiksilver Rincon Classic presented by Channel Islands Surfboards poster this year. Tontz runs Logan Dzyn and has been involved with many companies including Channel Islands Surfboards, Wavehunters Surf Travel, Surf Happens, Rincon Classic, On a Mission, Spy Sunglasses, Surfer Magazine, Powder Magazine, National Geographic, Red Bull, Nautica Clothing & Footwear, Water Conservation Services and more.

Classic Sunday Awards Ceremony: Environmental Partners: Quiksilver Foundation Surf Happens Foundation Surfers Without Borders Surfrider Foundation Naples Coalition

Charitable Partners:

First Descents Surf Happens Foundation – Camp Healing Wave Santa Barbara Maritime Museum

Artists:

Poster Artwork & Website: Rick Tontz / Logandzyn Trophy Logo: Brian Chandler / Solar B

Donating Artists: Aubrey Falk Rick Tontz Mike Kew Tony Luna John Birchim

Toni Mackie Jenny Keet Greg Gorga Bunni Lesh Charlie Schmidt Gabe Chesher Analiza Zungri

Musicians:

The Groove Ons: Travers Adler & Johnny McCann

Legends: Gone Too Soon Jeff White Ray Strange Chris Nancarrow Bob Krause Brandon Yates Mike Fraley Doctor Doug


FP Ad


Comen Sense

Kelly & the Subtleties By Craig Comen

Championship form. PHOTO: THOMAS SLATER

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2012

when we had to leave the beach. But when asked who his favorites were, he said in his little voice, “Kelly Slater and Owen Wright.” The next day even my wife posted something about athletes and Kelly on her Facebook wall. Now weeks after the event, I paddle out for my surfs and feel a little more perk in my legs from the motivation I sapped at the event, and just like “The King” said in an interview on TV, he is getting older but he’s not really thinking about age, just trying to be the best he can be. So thanks to all of them for inspiring us.

NEED CREDIT

A

S HARD AS IT IS to get my family off of the island we live on, the opportunity to check in on the best surfers in the world could not be missed. With Kelly Slater on the verge of clinching his 11th title, we had to make it to San Francisco. Little did I know that the day would dawn perfectly sunny, warm with 3- to 6-foot waves. It took more effort to get to the beach than for Gabriel Medina to win the event, but it was well worth it. Throngs of fans lined the shore where 25 years earlier I had won my first pro contest. The contrast was not only in the surfing, but also in how well received the sport is now and the prize money that the guys earn. It is really good to see. What struck me most of all were the things that might go unseen and really don’t make it into the magazines. After the horn sounded and Kelly had clinched his crown—or at least everyone thought so at that time— there were a few minutes where he was out the back sitting there on his board and looking to sea. I actually shed a few tears right then, as the magnitude of his relation with the ocean struck me profoundly. Sure he is a freak of surfing, and his body can twist, contort and recover like no other. But the magic of it all is what he can see, hear and feel when being in the water. Can anyone feel this relationship on a basketball court or bowling alley? Do the tides, winds and swells affect any other sport in any manner? It was easy to tell in the early rounds who the contest was going to be dominated by, but it was the blend of ages and approaches that stuck out the most. Sure enough the young Brazilians were flying in every direction gracefully and pulling it off, and on the other hand, Taylor Knox and Kelly were gouging power snaps, carves and floaters. There was something in me that felt a twinge of pride as these older guys continued to dominate. Funny thing—and maybe a little jabbing too—was my wife telling me I should have stuck with pro surfing longer. Yeah right, maybe a few more years, but no thanks. The commitment all of these talented surfers have made is beyond anything I have done except raising a family. It is inspiring, and as I get into my 50s, I will continue to not miss a live webcast on the ASP website (www.aspworldtour.com). The San Francisco contest was a treat to see in person. Oblivious to most of it, my 3-year-old threw enough sand, missed his nap, ate overly greasy fries and got upset



Ladies Room

Hair, Championships & Life with Demi Boelsterli By Nicole de Leon

I

’VE NEVER been much of a competitive surfer, but the last few times I have competed in the Rincon Classic, among other amazing women surfers, there has been a spunky young lady with a blonde fro that I could not help but sit back and marvel at. Demi Boelsterli is her name, and if you’ve spent any time at the contest you’ve seen her power her way to not one, not two, but seven wins at the Queen of the Coast. She and her good friend Lakey Peterson have given Santa Barbara a taste of the future of women’s surfing with their mind-blowing performances inside and outside of the competitive arena. Boelsterli is a part of Santa Barbara’s new generation of freakishly talented surfers who are pushing each other to the limits of the sport. This free-spirited and accomplished regular-footer has traveled around the world to surf competitively and admits she is already “living the dream.” With the Rincon Classic and westerly swells right around the corner, I had a chance to chat with this creative, independent spirit, and here’s what she had to say: DEEP: You are originally from Santa Barbara, which means you had to get creative to find waves during summer months. What has your secret been? Demi Boelsterli: When I was younger I spent a lot of time in the Huntington and Newport area because that’s where “everything was happening” and I felt I needed to “be a part of it.” So there I was, driving down to Huntington every weekend hitching rides with close friends to surf an NSSA or do a team workout. It was very motivating being around other surfers; I met a lot of kind people doing it. But in the end being in Santa Barbara during the summers was great, too. There’s always somewhere to surf, you’ve just got to take a drive, and maybe do some walking. DEEP: What makes you stand out among the rest? DB: I have a big blonde curly fro and I like to dance. DEEP: You’ve been surfing since you were 12. Did you have a coach or just get inspired on your own? DB: I learned to surf when I was 8, but started going every day at about 12. My dad surfed a lot, so he helped me for the first year or so. I surfed with JP “performance” Garcia and Chris Keet for quite a few years after that. I was able to get random bits and pieces of coaching from friends and other people I met along the way. DEEP: You seem to have Rincon wired, in fact you’ve won the Rincon Classic numerous times? What has your winning strategy been? DB: I don’t know if this is a strategy or choice, I just surf there all the time because it’s a really good wave. So I’ve learned where to sit and which waves will connect and what not. Also Lakey and I kinda grew up surfing together, so we paddle out with the attitude that we’re just going to have a good time and surf Rincon all to ourselves instead of being all competitive and edgy. For me surfing is easier and more enjoyable when you’re not surfing to be better than someone, just surfing to surf.

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2012

Keeping her hair dry. PHOTO: SETH DE ROULET

PHOTO: DUBOCK.COM

Gouging a Rincon face. PHOTO: DUBOCK.COM

DEEP: Have you ever been treated differently in any lineup for being a female? DB: I’m not sure. I guess I wouldn’t know, but one time at Lowers it was packed and I was wearing a short arm full and not catching waves. I went in to hang for a bit, eat food, water. Then I paddled right back out in my bikini and got more waves. DEEP: If you had to look back at your life and name your top accomplishments, what would they be? DB: I’ve caught a few set waves in the cove on a few good days, and the day I started using my Pentax again. Oh, and I have awesome friends. DEEP: Are you still surfing competitively? Where have your competitive travels taken you? DB: I don’t really do any contests anymore. I’ll surf a local contest here and there. Doing contests has gotten me around the world. I was able to do contests all over California, Hawaii, France, Brazil, and Portugal. I met some great people, and saw some crazy things happen. DEEP: Any interesting surf travel stories you can tell your grandchildren? DB: I was robbed by some jungle wanderers after a surf in Nicaragua. They pulled out a machete on us and chased my buddy and I down the beach on bikes. It was pretty heavy. The rest of the stories I will keep to myself and a few close friends. DEEP: You seem to rock your own style, but who have your greatest influences been in your life? DB: I’m going to make a list: Travers Adler, Trevor Gordon, Sean Tully, Will Adler, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Cat Clark, Morgan Maassen, Kirra Boelsterli, Tommy Alexander, the Curren boys, Keoni Cuccia, Mitch Colborne, CJ Hobgood, Tom Curren, and many, many, more. . . DEEP: Any sponsors or biggest supporters to give a shout out to? DB: Big thanks to all the boys at J7 Surfboards, the Surf Happens crew and thanks to BodyGlove for the new suit.


Board Tracting PHOTO: JEFF PFOST

Tracht putting “The Nickel’s” 2+1 fin set-up on display.

M.d.s.*: “The Nickel” Story by Shawn Tracht

T

HE OPPORTUNITY to work with the best shapers in California as a professional surfboard tester can make one jaded, which then makes it harder to want to give newer shapers a chance. So with that perspective in mind, you can see why I was wondering how Matt Sparks out of Newbury Park was going to wow me after I’d recently received a Roberts White Diamond, the board that helped Robert Weiner win Shaper of the Year from Surfing Magazine. Now it’s important to be honest in my reviews for you the reader. If a board is good, it’s good. If not, well then, you should know. All that being said, I will be the first to congratulate Sparks on a shape that demonstrated years of surfboard knowledge from a shaper I’d never heard of. “The Nickel”—5’6” x 20” x 2 1/8” with 2 + 1 (8” box) fin set up—can be ridden as a single fin, single and side bites, small box regular tri, or a twin fin. This fin setup gives you fin options most will only dream of. The lower entry-level rocker and wide nose allows you to speed through the slow sections, while the pulled-in tail and smooth outline gives you the holding power of modern shortboards.

MORE ON FIN OPTIONS Tri-fin setup: Use your favorite FCS side fins and 4” to 5” small box fin for the regular tri-fin feel. (I rode it with PC 3 FCS fins and a 4.5” small box fin). This fin combination gave the board medium to full drive and held with a tight pivot, which is great for punchy beach breaks. 2 + 1 set up: We used a 5.45” True Ames (TA) Performer with TA side bites extensively used on competition style longboards to provide a powerful and smooth ride. This is perfect for waist to a couple feet overhead at your local point break. 6.5” single fin: If your looking for style and a classic feel to your surfing then look no further. Drop the side bites and throw in your favorite 6” to 8” single fin for a smooth, classic style with drawn out swooping turns. 2 + 1 True Ames Parrish Cut Away for 2 + 1 setups: The Parrish Cut Away paired with TA side bites will give the board increased looseness and quicker direction

changes. Parrish found that by minimizing the area at the base of the fin, they were able to take a one directional board (straight down the line) and turn it into a lively turning machine.

SURFER’S TAKE The main reason this board worked so well is because Sparks combined speed elements (a wider outline on the front foot), with performance elements (pulled in tail with a flip of rocker under the fins). First, the outline was built to be able to surf the waves in California at least 300 days a year. If you’re looking for one board to do it all, this is your single board quiver. From the nose to the middle of the board, “The Nickel” is very wide, a little thick, and has low entry rocker, which helps with drive and speed through flat sections. Truthfully, the board looks odd in comparison to all the sexy, sleek white shortboards at the surf shop; however, this board was built for what most surfers need. Now, many fish, because they’re so wide, thick, and rocker-less, are hard to surf really progressively, for example huge fins free turns. That’s why Sparks pulled the outline in very hard from right behind the front foot, all the way to the tail. He also added rocker in the tail, or a kick in the tail, slightly, right over the fins. What this did was change the outline from a fast fish template, to a high performance template, all in the same board. The result was a board that caught waves as well as the longboards and shredded as hard as the shortboards. Lastly, to give the board ultimate status as the quiverkiller, or that one board you could buy as an every twoor three-year investment, Sparks added a single fin box and two FCS plugs as the fin setup. Surfing is great until we need a new challenge. For many surfers whose challenge isn’t the next competition or attempting the newest air, it’s easy for our surfing to become stale, which is usually due to only having one or two boards. Therefore, by having fin options, you are really buying about four boards in one. If you want to stay safe, ride it as a tri-fin, but if you want to go funky monkey, cruise with style with a Wayne Rich Single fin all the way down the point.

Matt Sparks “Nickel” gives you plenty of fin setup options. PHOTO: TRACHT

M.d.s.* SURFBOARDS SHAPER: Matt Sparks, M.d.s.* Surfboards BOARD SHAPE/DESIGN: The Nickel HOW TO ORDER: 2 to 4 inches shorter than normal board, wider, thicker, low entry rocker to a kicked rocker out the back THIS BOARD’S SPECIALTY: 2-foot slop to overhead and punchy, depending on fin setup FINS: Single fin, twin fin, 2 + 1, tri-fin THIS BOARD IS PERFECT FOR: Surfers who have been searching for that one-board quiver and have never found it. SURFBOARD TESTER, SHAWN TRACHT’S NORMAL SHORTBOARD: 5’10” x 18” x 2” TRACHT ORDERED THIS BOARD: 5’6” x 20” x 2 1/8” SHAPER’S CONTACT INFO: Phone: (805) 231-6116 Website: www.mdssurfboards.com Email: info@mdssurfboards.com Tracht’s Blog: Surfwanderer.com

W W W.DEEPZINE.COM

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Surf Shop Down Low

Beach House Beginnings Story by Shawn Tracht TO PUT SURFING into a historical context, all you need to do is walk through the doors of the Beach House Surf Shop in downtown Santa Barbara. Owner Roger Nance describes his shop as a museum of surfing history. A place where guys in their 50s and 60s walk in and ogle incessantly at the lineage and heritage of surfing that lines the walls through old surfboards, photos, and such. And though the shop carries the top brands and the latest and greatest style wear for the 12- to 32-year-old retail market, which in essence, is surf style, the shop’s tonal mood as a surfing museum turns T-shirt shopping into a day’s jaunt through the hallways of history’s time capsule and a time for surfer fathers and mothers to share with their surfing groms. Originally founded in 1961 as White Owl Surfboards in Summerland, the store eventually moved to Carrillo Street in Santa Barbara in 1965, and changed names to become Surf ‘n’ Wear. In 1987, the Beach House opened, giving the shops a two-store presence. Surf ‘N’ Wear eventually closed in 1994, leaving only the Beach House to carry on to its present day success. When it comes to inventory, Nance told me that, “the store has something for everybody. As far as surfboards, it’s very longboard heavy, about 60 percent, with 30 percent shortboards (Firewire), and about 10 percent retro boards. Andreini, and even Renny Yater and Fineline do some retro boards

SANTA BARBARA SURFER.com

From A to Z, the Beach House has everything you need.

here and there for us, which brings a special touch to our board rack.” Overall, this is a place that I can’t wait to visit with my son. Especially as we both get older, collect boards, and dabble in shaping for the rest of our lives. Coming back to the Beach House will be a treat, as well as a measuring stick between our backyard shaping skills and some of the greatest shapers who ever lived. All this, and we can buy a cool new T-shirt and a bar of wax to chew on before we hop in the truck and head back down to point-break heaven. 10 State Street, Santa Barbara (805) 963-1281 www.surfnwear.com

PHOTO: NUÑO

BRANDS CARRIED:

Anderson, Andreini, Fineline, Firewire, Naish, Surftech, Wilderness, Yater, Quiksilver, Roxy, Dakine, Jedidiah, Matix, Element, Analog, Billabong, Stussy, Hurley, Volcom, Rip Curl, O’Neill, RVCA, Freedom Artists, Pro Lite, Ocean Minded, Vans, Sanuk, Reef, Rainbows, Raybans, Electrics, Spys, Von Zippers, Maui Jim

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Surf reportS • Swell forecaStS • photoS • VideoS • profileS 36

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2012

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Arabian Hollows, Insh’Allah

The Pillars of LAKSHADWEEP Story by Michael Kew

Photos by Alan van Gysen


SAWM

Daniel Jones bottom turns around another perfect tube with a view of the desalination plant in the distance.

The room is moving. Trevor Gordon’s eyes are open and glazed, his pupils wide. It’s 5:04 a.m. He rubs his belly clockwise, breathes oddly, speaks flatly. “Don’t let me pass out, man. We’ve got to stick together.” Outside, pale moonlight glints off the warm Laccadive Sea. The 89-meter M/V Lakshadweep Sea sways from side to side, motoring east at 9 knots while Chadd Konig, also in the room, is awakened by the lanky sleepwalker. “I really need some fresh air,” Gordon slurs. The two step outside. Gordon’s balance is off. On the bulwark he rests his elbows. His shoulders feel sore. So much surfing lately. So many great waves. With Konig he ponders the universe and watches the sea slide by. There, beyond the horizon, Somali pirates prowl for big boats like this. The isolation of Lakshadweep’s palmy atolls has lured the slitted eyes of East African predators who, armed with grenade launchers and Kalashnikov rifles, seek ransom for seized cargo. Can be any cargo, really. Freighters and oil tankers are preferred. Unfortunately the Lakshadweep Sea holds nothing but islanders and Indians, 260 of them, bound for the port city of Cochin. It’s a 21-hour sail. We’ve got to stick together! For pirates, this is no comfort zone—Lakshadweep is 1,600 miles east of Somalia. But with hijacked ships, the Somalis have widened their gaze to cover 2.5 million square nautical miles. In 2010, across the northwest Indian Ocean, they seized 1,181 hostages and gained several million ransom dollars, about 30 percent of which were sent to al Shabaab, a Somalia terrorist group linked with al Qaeda. In 2011, Lakshadweep brushed with Somali piracy, some violent. The uninhabited of Lakshadweep’s isles may offer sanctuary to pirates, drug smugglers and Islamic terrorists. Last year, three were found on one of the atolls we surfed. Gordon and Konig are blissfully ignorant of this as dawn fills the sky. Downstairs in a green-doored prayer room, a young Sunni Muslim man sits and ends his fajr, the first of five daily prayers included in the Five Pillars of Islam, which are: shahada (creed), salat (prayer), sawm (fasting), zakat (almsgiving), hajj (pilgrimage). He turns his head to the right, then left. Assalamu alaikum wa rahmatullah— “Peace and blessings from Allah be upon you.” For the past week, Allah’s blessings came from blue skies and the southwest

Giant turtles graze on sea grass in the shallows of the Lakshadweep Islands. Jay “steals” a ride while cooling off after documenting another epic session with Craig Anderson.

Transportation across the long skinny islands, Laksahdweep style.


Indian Ocean—long-period swells that tonight ease the ship to and fro. Swells that rake the clean coral reefs of Lakshadweep, 12 atolls that geographically are sewn to the Maldives and the Chagos archipelago. It’s a surfy zone, this. Gordon’s pupils shrink. He’s awake now. The sea looks different—different from the warping blue guts of a Lakshadweep tube. Those are familiar to him. Konig concurs. “Did that just happen?” Gordon asks, scratching his unwashed head. “Did we really get that barreled?”

SALAT

Back on the atoll, between prayers and working in his father’s sundry shop, the young Muslim man had watched the surfers leap from the pier and repeatedly disappear in and emerge from waves. In Arabic, his father called them “water tunnels.” With his friends and family and many of the passengers on this ship, the young Muslim man sat and stood on the white concrete railing, his dark face and beard catching the salt mist from big sets as they blasted through the pilings beneath him. The pier trembled. The young Muslim man grew vexed at the government that poked this thing into the center of a surf zone. Boats can’t dock to it. And since the reefs are environmentally sensitive, locals can’t fish from it. The pier is useful only as an extension from the coconut confines of atoll life and to watch surfers, but nobody surfs in Lakshadweep. Yet. Konig left a Cossart alaia. Today the young Muslim man feels fresh. He’s going to see his younger brother and older sister. And the fajr is his favorite ritual because it connects him to Allah at dawn, his favorite time of day. He walks upstairs and outside. The warm wind wipes his face as he inhales deeply. He waves at Konig and Gordon, up towards the ship’s bow. Cochin is near. It’s his big-world downtown, a noisy, stinking, crowded sprawl of high-rises, a snake pit of sweat and slow traffic. It’s his sister’s temporary home while she attends Cochin University of Science & Technology. She wants to be a marine biologist. The young Muslim man thinks that, next month, when he returns home, if pirates don’t get to it first, he’d really like to try that alaia.

SHAHADA

Bearded/longhaired Chadd Konig styles and highlines into the tube, a picture straight from “Morning of the Earth.” Trevor Gordon, on an orange 6’7” Lovelace hull, blitzes through the third. The spit stings his back. Swooosh. We’re lucky. There could have been no swell—Lakshadweep is 4,000 miles from the Roaring Forties weather kitchen, with considerable swell-shadowing by Chagos and the Maldives. There could have been no real spots—on Google Earth, the atolls look bad for surfing. There could have been clouds and rain and onshore wind because, annually, May sparks the southwest monsoon. The M/V Arabian Sea, which sailed the surfers to this atoll, could have sunk or failed or been hijacked by Somalis. The ship could have never left Cochin (it almost didn’t), because the trip was booked through the government, because that’s how foreigners can visit the atolls (most are off-limits) and because the government was prone to reschedule or simply cancel, even if you have the required entry permit. To surf Lakshadweep, the odds are stacked high against you.

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2012

HAJJ

Everyone had slept well. Spirits are high despite the low surf forecast. We have no choice, really. Cochin is the jumping-off point. We’re not mainlanding. We have to jump. The M/V Arabian Sea is a big white passenger ship owned by the Indian government. It’s the only way to reach an atoll 300 miles out. We should get there—India’s Navy, the world’s sixth largest, just opened a base in Lakshadweep to boost coastal security to stop Somali piracy and Islamic terrorist strikes, like 2008’s mass coordinated shooting and bombing attacks in Mumbai, India’s largest city. “Insh’Allah,” a small Lakshadweep man astern says. His name is Rafiq. We discuss bin Laden’s death. We watch the boiling wake emerge from the transom and lay a wide white line atop the sea. The sun sinks into the horizon. Slowly, Cochin dissolves in the distance. Dressed in traditional white Muslim clothes, Rafiq is a copra seller heading home from Chennai, where he visited family. Today he seems relieved. Now that bin Laden is dead, Rafiq says, clasping his hands as if in prayer—God willing—al Qaeda’s threat to India will now wane. “India gets terror threats every day,” Rafiq says, stroking his pointy beard, squinting. “These people are very bad Muslims, you see? They make us look bad. Do you think Muslim people are bad?” “No.” “Okay. Well, these Muslims are very bad. They want kill everybody in India. Maybe some terrorists hide in Lakshadweep, maybe from Pakistan. Some Lakshadweep islands are uninhabited. So now we have make radar stations and Navy and Coast Guard bases in the islands. Terrorists have try to recruit people from Lakshadweep because we are Muslims. And the pirates come near now. Do you know Somalia?”

ZAKAT

Last night in Abbottabad, Pakistan, U.S. forces double-tapped Osama bin Laden with 5.56-millimeter bullets from a M4 carbine assault rifle. This killed him instantly and coated his floor red. It also exposed his brain’s left frontal lobe to the subtropical Orash Valley air. Last night in Cochin, India, Trevor Gordon occupied a clean air-conditioned room at Hotel Bright Heritage. This morning, before checking email and Buoyweather’s seven-day chart for the Laccadive Sea, CNN sings of bin Laden’s death. “You think this is gonna change anything?” Gordon asks me. “Like stop terrorism?” “Yeah.” “Insh’Allah.” “What?” “God willing. It’s Arabic.” Buoyweather’s chart looks bad: small (one meter) medium-period swell from the southwest, not the medium-to-large (two to three meters) long-period southern pulse we hope for. The wind will be offshore but…. “So,” I posit, standing above my MacBook, wishing those blue Buoyweather lines on the screen would grow. “Knee-high in Lakshadweep? Waist-high?” Gordon smirks, pausing for effect. “Insh’Allah.”


Craig Anderson makes the most of a rare left in the late afternoon Indian light.

Idyllic Arabian Sea conditions.

A local fisherman casts out his net in hopes of a catch for dinner.

Welcome to the islands. Anderson takes it all in.

On the day we arrived, we walked across the entire length of the islands in search of potential setups. The only way to perfect A-frame peaks was on this boat.

The water in the Lakshadweep Islands is some of the clearest and cleanest you will ever experience. Chad Konnig glides through the bubble on his trusty Alaia. W W W.DEEPZINE.COM

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Anderson is one of the world’s most stylish surfers.

Lakshadweep beaches are idyllic and perfect, but they sure are hot with little shade. Hawaii’s Jones marches on.

Rastas is truly an unforgettable wave. Anderson adds the missing ingredient to the perfect playing field. Above: While waiting to board the ferry across from the mainland I encountered this old gentleman stacking leaves. In crowded India, work is work.

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2012

Anderson avoids the heat of the day and catches a quick nap before another long session.

With so many fun waves, who wouldn’t be smiling and soul arching. Trevor Gordon revels in the enlightenment of India perfection.


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DEEP Reviews MOUNTAIN AIR SPORTS

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This snowboard is made in America. The combination of rocker and chamber technology makes the board ride smooth and surfy without compromising the power and energy you get from cambered snowboards. It also has Magne-Traction so you can turn ice into powder.

Beanies

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RHYTHM Rhythm Butch Trunk Packaway Travel Series ��������������� $62.00 Not only are these Rhythm Butch Packaway Travel Series trunks super comfortable, they are also new to the game and travel friendly. Rhythm created this brilliant series that allows the trunks to fold into the back pocket making them the perfect travel trunks for 2012. To the untrained eye, the pocket looks entirely standard but a closer look reveals that it is actually the key to less expensive more organized travels. These garments fold up into themselves allowing you to carry more things in less space. Packable, clutter-free and carry-on ready.

Arbor Cadence Snowboard �������������������������������������$399.00 2011 Transworld Snowboarding Good Wood Award winner for women’s park/all-mountain. A rocker board designed specifically for women who take a park set of skills to the whole mountain. The Cadence supports spins, jumps, rail riding, and all-mountain cruising, with a lively disposition that’s hard to fathom.

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Arbor Coda Snowboard �������������������������������������������$499.00 2011 Shred Cred Award for men’s all-mountain. Arbor’s on-mountain rocker design is for serious chargers who readily transition through varied terrain. The Coda is built for all-aspect performance—riding powder, dominating technical steeps, powering through tight trees, carving the groomers, and killing big backcountry kickers.

3

Arbor Vugenhaüsen Skateboard ������������������������������$249.00 The Vugenhaüsen, Arbor’s new downhill machine, is built around a dark set of design secrets found deep in German engineering lore. Expect a stiff, fast ride, with the right amount of torsional give for initiation into and out of turns. Control drifting like never before, with blade extensions that lock in your feet around any corner. Decks come stock with Thumb Cutter Grip Tape. Completes include: Arbor’s new 72mm, 82a durometer Team Series wheels, ABEC 5 bearings, and Paris 180mm trucks.

Available at: Arbor Santa Barbara / www.arborcollective.com

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2012

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PHOTO: TRACHT

Ex-pro and surfboard designer Sean Mattison designed the nubster fifth fin. PHOTO: BILL TOVER

The Fifth Fin Nubster Design by Sean Mattison that helped Slater Win #11

Kelly Slater won the New York Quiksilver Pro using Mattison’s fifth fin.

By Shawn Tracht

P

OINT BLANK, some inventions are magic, but most aren’t. Magic is special, it’s elusive, and it’s not regular. That’s why when we come across a magic surfboard, and in this case, a magic fin design, the stoke of surfing is heightened. I received this board, the Von Sol Shadow, from Sean Mattison back in October, with his fifth fin, keel fin creation, and I don’t say this often, but “The Shadow” surfboard with the fifth fin, for me, was magic. Mattison and I had rapped out all day, for eight hours. We discussed surfboards, surfing history, surf legends, and maybe the biggest news to date, Mattison’s fifth fin that he designed to supplement the quad setup on many of his own boards and the boards in his Von Sol label. Correspondingly, the biggest news coming from this fin, as much of the world knows now, was that Kelly Slater, a long-time friend of Mattison, was not only game to test the fifth fin, but he also used it in the Quiksilver New York Pro contest, where he ended up getting second place on his new piece of equipment. So, with Slater’s performance in mind, when Mattison asked me to take this board back up north and to try his Shadow model with the fifth fin, let’s just say I had faith that the fin would enhance the board a little. Mattison told me to ride the board as a quad-fin first. The reason being, I love quads and I know how they’re supposed to feel; how they glide

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE July/August 2011

smoothly through the water and act as a sort of super charger adding extra speed to a board. He told me that once I knew the board, after a few waves, to run to the beach and get the fifth fin to throw in to the center fin box. Did I feel a difference? Definitely. A quad fin is drivey, smooth down the line, and great for releasing the tail at the top of turns because there is no center fin, or rudder, like there is on a tri-fin to anchor you to the lip. However, there are times on a quad that you need extra drive—just a little. Using the fifth fin or leaving it out depended on the wave conditions. Moreover, the benefit of Mattison’s little keel fifth fin was that while it enhanced stabilization, hold, and drive, the small size of the fin didn’t hinder the board from its free feeling release at the lip when trying to throw the tail out the back. Unlike a full-size thruster center fin, the small keel, fifth fin adds that little tiny ounce of extra, but doesn’t act as a full rudder full of drag. It gives you just enough extra drive and hold, but doesn’t ever seem to reduce the board’s quad-fin characteristics, which is a jet-speed feeling and skatey release. In Oceanside beach break, 3-foot D-Street, I actually liked the board better with just the quad setup. Speed was never an issue in the Southern California beaches because hucking little sections running down the beach produced more than enough ramp to fly. In small, fast, lined up waves, I


PHOTO: MICHAEL DELANZO

Mattison surfing his fifth fin design on his Von Sol Surfboards label.

didn’t need a stabilizer or any addition of speed. However, when I got up north, the way I surfed changed a bit as the waves changed. Many waves in San Luis Obispo County seem to be full of more moving ocean. The lips are thicker, the water is colder, and each wave seems to come from the belly of the Pacific. That being said, they are generally slower-moving thick waves. So a two-foot day that is full of quick corners to pick off in Southern California doesn’t equate to a good session in Central California, where two-foot generally means slow rollers to the beach. Here, two-foot sucks, but four- to eight-foot ocean mongers are when the fun factor really turns on. Nonetheless, a good peeling wave at many Central Cal beaches still moves slower to the beach. It seems like you take off with just as much speed here, but when you get to the bottom of the wave on your bottom turn, and you’re looking up to time the lip, it takes forever for the lip to move towards the beach and break. I don’t want to put down the waves as slow and mushy, there is a lip. However, when a surfer coasts to the bottom and must wait an extended period of time at the bottom before accelerating up to hit the lip, he/she loses a considerable amount of drive and flow. This is where the fifth fin was essential for me. At the point where my bottom turn was drawn out as far as it could go, and I had waited as long as I could for these slower moving Central Cal lips to finally peak and break, the fifth fin is what added a new, enhanced acceleration back up towards the lip. Whereas many times, on a thruster or a quad-fin, this bottom turn is slower moving and only allows enough speed to tap the lip and keep going, the fifth fin really did enhance the amount of instant quickness and drive when I pushed and pivoted my back foot into the trough and drove for the top of the wave. Now, with that little extra amount of speed, instead of just getting to the lip, I was surfing with confident speed again, accelerating past the lip, throwing tail and busting out. As the waves got bigger, that fifth fin, especially because it only has one FCS plug, could be moved up and back from fin box to fin box in that center fin area. Therefore, I could adjust the amount of stickiness and hold in the board. When we move fins back they hold more but release less, and when we move fins up, just the opposite occurs. To wrap it up, Mattison’s fifth fin design has become a no brainer part of my quiver. Though it’s not a new board on the rack in my quiver, it’s almost like it is. This fin has greatly enhanced the reliability of many of my favorite quad-fins in wave type situations when I used to have to leave those boards at home. So where do you pick up this fifth fin nubster, as Mattison calls it? Well, FCS just picked up the template as a new model, so ask your surf shop when they’re getting them in, and I’ll guarantee you, if they haven’t ordered them for the shop yet, it won’t be long before FCS gets them a slew of these fins for an itching public to try.

VHP Ad

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Music & Entertainment

New Noise Music Festival & Conference Wrap Up Story and Photos by L. Paul Mann THE THIRD ANNUAL New Noise Music Festival and Conference wrapped up its biggest and most successful event yet, showcasing over 50 bands at venues (including many that sold out) all over downtown Santa Barbara. The music festival, which stretched to four days this year, offered up great indy bands from many genres of music. The highlight for live musical intensity may have come on Nov. 3, the first night of the concert. Around midnight, there were three separate shows at the same time holding capacity crowds enraptured with three very different styles of music. The New York electronic dance music duo, Phantogram, had a sold-out crowd at Soho in a dancing frenzy by midnight. At the same time, down on lower State Street, a crowd packed Velvet Jones to hear the bluesy jam band sounds of Rhode Island’s Deer Tick. All the while, a few doors up, the smaller Whiskey Richards Club was full of homegrown indy punk music fans, soaking in the sounds of Santa Barbara’s veteran punk group Code 415. While the witching hour of the first night of the festival may have been the most intense, the venues expanded to five the next night with the addition of the Savoy Club and Muddy Waters. On Nov. 4, music fans packed the newly remodeled three-story Savoy for Oregon-based indy jam band Typhoon. It was a good choice of venues for this band, as the club’s oversized stage helped accommodate the more that one dozen members of this musical tsunami of a band. Up at Soho at about the same time, former pro surfer and singer/songwriter Timmy Curran was following in the footsteps of Jack Johnson with simple upbeat songs reflecting a beach-lover’s lifestyle. On Nov. 5, the music conference took over the downtown Canary Hotel and offered a host of informative and well-attended lectures. One of the most popular lectures was the Live Show and Touring panel made up of successful promoters, suggesting ideas on how bands can get live show bookings. The panel offered a wide array of promoters,

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2012

from the owner of the smallest venue in Santa Barbara, Muddy Waters Cafe, to Kevin Lyman, most famous for producing Vans Warped Tour every summer. Lyman was the most popular panelist and fielded an array of questions. Lyman, whose Warped tour is probably the most corporate-sponsored event in the history of rock concerts (There is a separate sponsor for all eight stages at the festival, as well as countless giveaways), has been successful in getting the 1 percent to actually work for the 99 percent for a change. The Warped Tour has given more unknown bands the chance to garner a national audience than any other musical event in history. When asked if there were any compromises to be made between accepting so much corporate sponsorship and advocating for so many alternativelifestyle, free-thinking musicians, he responded with a resounding “No.” According to Lyman, bands booked on the tour are free to say and do as they like in their performances. His formula has been so successful and popular with young bands and music fans alike that he has expanded into other genres like the Heavy Metal Mayhem Music Festival. By the time the conference wrapped up, local bands were performing for free at a street party in front of the Arlington Theater. Also for the second year in a row, colorfully painted pianos were place along the sidewalks of State Street for several blocks. The idea proved so popular there were lines of people made up of locals, tourists, homeless, and families all waiting to play a few tunes to the delight of anyone within hearing distance. The music festival continued into the night with bands like The Entrance Band playing intense jam band music at Velvet Jones and a late night set by veteran rock bass player Paz Lenchantin at Soho. The music festival wrapped up on Nov. 6 with just one venue, Soho, offering a selection of mellower indy music, including that of the folksy rock, Oregon-based Parson Redheads. It was a fitting end to what has become a uniquely Santa Barbara tribute to the indy music scene.

From Top: Kevin Lyman and Desantis from Sugarcult. Peter Hook and Moby. Phantogram. Deer Tick.


Music & Entertainment

Left: Everyone pitched in for the cause, even this young grom. Middle: Celebration. Right: Tim Curran with the Ska Daddyz sax player.

HOPE & HEALING BENEFIT CONCERT

A Day of Music & Celebaration of Life Story and Photos by L. Paul Mann

W

ELL OVER 1,000 people from all over the tri-counties filled the newly remodeled Libbey Bowl in Ojai on Oct. 8, for a very special concert. Musicians United to Battle Cancer came from all over the area to play a benefit show for Thom Olson, a young father, husband, and wellknown local surfer, who is battling cancer. Most veteran surfers in the area no doubt will be familiar with Olson’s name from the Olson Coffee House that his mom founded near the beach in Oxnard Shores. The Libby Bowl concert, featuring many genres of music, included crowdpleasing sets from local groups Ska Daddyz, Raging Arb and The Redheads, Jackass, Dirty Rice, the Strand Band, B. Willing James, and Kyle Hunt. Former pro surfer Timmy Curran, who was at the forefront of the aerial revolution in surfing, played a headline set featuring sections from his three albums. His usual band was off attending a wedding of one of its

members, so Curran assembled a new band of local surfer musicians. The set was well received by a captivated crowd of upbeat music fans. The all-day event included food, beer, wine, an art show, raffles, and family fun activities. A beautiful sunny day gave way to a crisp cool night as family members and most of the army of musicians who played throughout the day gathered onstage for the finale. After a rocky first finale attempt, a second start proved more harmonic as all the participants and the crowd joined in the Beatles’ classic “All You Need Is Love.” Proceeds for the event went toward organizing a trip to Germany where Olson can receive special treatment for pancreatic cancer. As was brought to light in the coverage of the battle Steve Jobs recently lost to the same cancer, the advanced European treatments offered are not available in this country and not covered by medical insurance. To make a donation, visit www.thomolson.webconnex.com/donate.

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Green Room

ARTIST TURNS USED VINYL BANNERS INTO SURFBOARD BAGS AND OTHER UPCYCLED GOODIES

Noah Johnson hand making one of his products for The Progress Project.

Story and Photos by Derek Dodds

OK

, we all know what recycling is, right? To review, recycling is processing used materials into new products. However, most recycling involves converting or extracting useful materials from a waste product, and that process can be gnarly. Meet the more evolved cousin of recycling, upcycling. Upcycling is the process of repurposing waste materials into new and creative products. In most instances, the original waste material is reformed or melded to construct a product that is an innovative expression of the upcyclist’s imagination—some call it art. We tracked down California surfer and entrepreneur Noah Johnson, owner of The Progress Project. Noah is an innovative upcyclist making surf products from reclaimed banners. In this interview he shares his thoughts and personal reclaimed journey. DEEP: How did you get the idea for The Progress Project? Noah Johnson: The idea for the project came before we knew exactly what medium we were going to work with. I wanted to be able to mix integrity with making money. I knew I wanted to work for myself and I wanted to do it my own way. So that’s where it all started. I sat down with a friend of mine and we asked, “What can we create with reclaimed materials?” DEEP: How did you come up with the idea to use reclaimed banners?

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2012

NJ: It was just kind of a lucky coincidence. My good friend has a print shop and he does large format printing, he prints banners and banners and he suggested using the recycled materials from his print shop. I started researching material and I found out that nobody was using PVC vinyl. PVC can’t be broken down. You can’t recycle PVC. You can throw it away or you can re-purpose it, those are your two options. Banners will sit in a landfill for maybe a million years. It seemed like the perfect choice—lucky for us, it makes a really good bag too. We tried not to have too many set ideas of what we wanted to do and how we wanted to do it; we just started brainstorming and exploring what we could do with the material.

buys them from those companies. Primarily old banners are used as tarps on farmland. When you’re driving through farm country and you see grain and other crops with tarps over them—nine times out of 10 it’s a billboard that’s inside out.

DEEP: People are calling this type of process upcycling. What do you think about that term and do you consider yourself an upcyclist? NJ: I don’t find myself using that term. That being said, I think that it’s a good description of what I’m doing. For whatever reason it hasn’t grabbed me yet. But by definition I would absolutely consider myself an upcyclist. It does make sense and I do agree with it. I reclaim stuff. I repurpose it.

DEEP: Where do you see The Progress Project in the future? NJ: My vision for The Progress Project is for it to be a larger umbrella that’s got lots of different things going on underneath it. Philanthropy is a huge thing that we want to be involved in—feet on the ground, hands-on kind of philanthropy within our own community. We want to bring awareness back to the idea that community is an important concept. We want to help nurture a collective voice and bring attention to things that are important—sustainability, education and art—things that unfortunately we see being plundered and damaged in a lot of ways. I’d like to create some sensibility and encourage people to make

DEEP: Where do you buy the banners? NJ: Well, it’s a complex industry. There’s a company that installs them and takes them down from the structures. There is another company that goes around and

DEEP: Old school recycling Farmer John style. NJ: Absolutely. It speaks to the durability of the product. They guarantee those tarps for five years and we’re talking about something that’s laying on top of a pile of earth and protecting the goods underneath from lots of elements; rain, snow, sun, everything.

some changes in positive ways, that’s the ultimate goal for what we’re doing. Of course making a good living and being able to retire young and travel the world are also by-products of what we want to create. We want to be able to balance being positive, making money and having fun. Connect with Johnson and see more of his products on Facebook; search for The Progress Project. Let’s all do our part whether it’s recycling, upcycling or bicycling— do one thing every day to make our planet greener. To watch the online video interview visit http://ow.ly/7w4mG.


Green Room

Santa Barbara High School’s

GREEN ACADEMY By Kara Petersen

J

OSE CABALLERO, the Advanced Placement Environmental Studies (APES) teacher at Santa Barbara High School, peers through the thick black frames of his glasses into a salad. He shuffles through leafy greens digging for bright red tomatoes resting at the bottom of a reused container. His class is not only one of the most challenging, as noted by the AP prefix, but also one of the most popular, with 190 students enrolled this year. “The whole point is to learn about the environment and recognize that we have a role,” says Caballero who has been teaching the course for eight years. He started teaching the class in his first year as a high school instructor. Local non-profit Growing Solutions Restoration Education Institute first approached him with the idea of creating a Green Academy at SBHS. Caballero, who was already passionate about sustainability and education, jumped at the opportunity. GSREI provided the seed funding for the program, but parted ways with the high school after the first year. The Green Academy as SBHS is directed by Caballero. It offers a rigorous course load combined with the opportunity for real-world experience, learning and volunteering. Caballero also hopes to use environmental education as a way to reach students who are otherwise uninterested. “Kids care about the environment,” he says. By offering courses on a topic they are already interested in he hopes to attract more students and cultivate a general appreciation for education to match the one many students already have for the environment. After going it alone for the first six years, Caballero now has Melissa Woods, David Yale and Stephanie Rivera teaching classes in the program as well. Between the four of them, courses now include: Environmental Engineering, Environmental Horticulture, Green Technology, Green Chemistry, AP Environmental Science and Projects in sustainability. With four dedicated educators, the Green Academy offers a robust alternative to a traditional high school education. While still covering the basics, the Green Academy stretches students’ learning capacity far beyond what is required for high SAT scores and college entrance minimums. Offering a range of opportunities, from AP courses to volunteer experiences, the Green Academy also offers real time experience in many of the subject matters the students study in the classroom. These opportunities aren’t just learning experiences but ways in which SBHS students can participate in their community as well. As required by the APES course, students spend the second semester of the year designing, implementing and coordinating an environmental volunteer project in the community. Local community service projects have included: habitat restoration; beach clean up; removal of invasive species; steelhead salmon; transportation reform; and water and energy efficiency. Independent students have also designed art installations to raise awareness about the rising sea level and other important environmental issues. Oftentimes these projects cross over with the Multimedia and Design Academy at the high school, also known as MAD. Some class projects have left lasting marks on campus, such as the garden that is now growing with edible plants and vegetables. Green Academy courses also count toward credits at Santa Barbara City College and other colleges. And students in the

EN GRE SROOM CLAS

COURSES INCLUDE: • Environmental Engineering • Environmental Horticulture • Green Technology • Green Chemistry program participate in the SBCC Farmer’s Market on Wednesdays. • AP Environmental Science The student interest on this topic • Projects in sustainability

is great. There are approximately 220 students enrolled in the Horticulture and Environmental Science classes, with another 120 students in an after school Garden Club. In fact, many of the green activities on campus are student run. Each year students nominate and vote for the student environmentalist of the year. Past winners have completed student projects on the following topics; growing native plants, backyard harvest to support the Foodbank of Santa Barbara, a bio-diesel project and an edible landscape design. Students also participate in an after school environmental film series. Caballero collects documentaries and other films about the environment. He holds screenings in his classroom and also lends out the films for student viewing. The Green Academy offers students an opportunity to not only learn about current environmental issues but also educate others. The program encourages participation in the community and provides a foundation for our youth to address the problems they will inherit with their future.

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Final Frame I

presented by Anacapa Brewing Co.

Matt Gallagher fins free at Shell Beach.

ANACAPA BREWING CO. Ventura’s ONLY Restaurant & Brewery Come in and enjoy one of our Mouth Watering, Handcrafted Beers on Tap Open Daily, 11:30 am • 472 E. Main Street • 805-643-2337 • anacapabrewing.com 52

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2012

FLETCHER BURTON


NOW SHOWING ON COX 8

Fri-Sun at 9:05 p.m. Everynight at Midnight Season Two Premiere, Feb. 1

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Final Frame II

presented by Anacapa Brewing Co.

Thre e days of offshore, overhead wave

led awes ome tube s and big s at Loga n Rau hut’s home brea k, equa

airs.

ANACAPA BREWING CO. Ventura’s ONLY Restaurant & Brewery Come in and enjoy one of our Mouth Watering, Handcrafted Beers on Tap Open Daily, 11:30 am • 472 E. Main Street • 805-643-2337 • anacapabrewing.com 54

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE January/February 2012

HOUSTON


SUBMIT VIDEOS BY FEBRUARY 22, 2012

FOR RULES & APPLICATION VISIT

SundanceBeach.com


Photo - Jim Brewer

24 East Mason Street Santa Barbara, CA 93101 / 805-845-5606 / www.bluelinepaddlesurf.com


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