DEEP Surf Magazine 2012 May June by danielle.siano

SPECIAL EDITION

2012 Swimsuit Issue

Ernie Brooks Photo Essay DEEPZINE.COM

Recent Spring Swell May/June 2012 • Volume 7 / No. 3

Trippin’ On Ice / Brewer FREE

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A delicate sun-up glow. Gaviota Coast. JIM MARTIN

COVER SHOT Rather than bracing for the water, you embrace it here in the Maldives. Mary Osborne heads to surf a North Maldive Atoll right-hander. Photo by David Pu’u

YOUR SURFMAG EL DIRECTOR:

Andres Nuño EDITOR:

Chuck Graham GRAPHIC DESIGN:

Danielle Siano Zack Paul (Swimsuit Issue) PHOTO CORRECTION:

David Levine SALES:

info@deepzine.com CONTRIBUTING WRITERS:

Jim Brewer Craig Comen Derek Dodds Glenn Dubock Chuck Graham Dan Hamlin Michael Kew Nicole de Leon

L. Paul Mann Katie McLean Kara Petersen David Pu’u Ryan Richardson Ryan A. Smith Shawn Tracht Mike Vavak CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS:

Balzer Kenny Backer Jim Brewer Ernie Brooks Fran Collin Kristine Cramer Derek Dodds Glenn Dubock James Fortman Bethany Frankhauser Chuck Graham Lori Graham Randall Hamilton Michael Kew

Traci Kimball Brent Lieberman L. Paul Mann Jim Martin Karon Pardue Nick Presniakov Jason Rath Matty Schweitzer Kyle Sparks David Pu’u Gretchen Soares Jon Shafer Ryan A. Smith Bill Tover Shawn Tracht ASP / Kirstin SUPPORTING STAFF:

Lea Boyd Peter Dugré Erin Lennon Kristyn Whittenton

DEEP Surf Magazine Twitter@DEEPSurfMag

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE May/June 2012

PUBLISHER:

Michael VanStry ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER:

Gary L. Dobbins

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Letter from the Editor �� 10 News �� 12,13 Ladies Room �� 14 View from the Hill �� 16 Board Trachting Progressive Surfboards �� 17

Tidelines �� 18 Northern Exposure �� 20 ERNIE BROOKS

MICHAEL KEW

What’s Your Komunity Project �� 22 Comen Sense �� 28 Product Reviews �� 42 Surf Shop Down Low Homegrown Surf Shop �� 52

Surf Camp Listings �� 54 DEEP Celebration �� 60 Music & Entertainment �� 64 Green Room �� 66 DUBOCK.COM

Final Frames �� 68, 70

FEATURES

LETTER TO THE EDITOR

Dear DEEP Surf Magazine,

ERNIE BROOKS PHOTO ESSAY Story and Photos by Chuck Graham Ernie Brooks, the son of Ernest H. Brooks the founder of Brooks Institute of Photography, has devoted his entire professional life to capturing images of pelagic ecosystems in every ocean round the globe. DEEP shows you a glimpse of his black and white photography.

44 A PALIKIR PASS YARN Story by Michael Kew Globetrotter Michael Kew takes us to Pohnpei, a primordial tropical island that is part of the Senyavin Islands in the West Pacific. Only 13 miles wide, Pohnpei offers dynamite surf around the island during all seasons. 48

RECENT SPRING SWELL Photos by Dubock.com, Brent Lieberman, L. Paul Mann, Bill Tover A later winter swell surprised us this spring. DEEP photographers along the Central Coast were on top of the swell and this is what they captured.

56 TRIPPIN’ ON ICE Story and photos by Jim Brewer Avid SUP rider, and Blueline Paddle Surf owner Jim Brewer, heads to Iceland to find untouched waves. On an un-guided adventure, he comes across a volcano eruption, paddles through icy rivers and finds perfect corduroy lines peeling off a cobblestone point break. 8

JIM BREWER

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE May/June 2012

I feel compelled to compliment you for this fine Green Issue (March/April 2012). I thought the article by Craig Comen (“To Be Green Or To Not Be Green,” Comen Sense) was particularly on the money and bold for it pointing out, among other things, that traveling all over the planet to surf or for any other reason is not oh so green. All the writers did a great job in expressing that the world’s oceans are precious. Thanks for putting this important information out there. Sincerely, STEVEN FALCONER, Ventura DEEP Surf Magazine welcomes your letters. Send your Letters to the Editor to andres@deepzine.com.

LORI GRAHAM

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR May/June 2012 Volume 7, Issue 3

DEEP COLUMNIST Nicole de Leon wrote an interesting perspective for this issue’s Ladies Room about crowded lineups, getting along, and less experienced surfers in the lineup, always a hot topic when it rises to the surface. There are more surfers now than ever before, with a dizzying amount of board shapes and designs to choose from. Couple that with a lot of inexperienced people in the water, a host of Internet forecasts, and cell phones going off and tempers are undoubtedly going to flare. There’s no criteria out there dictating the level of experience required for each surf spot, so it’s up to each one of us to police ourselves by taking a look in the mirror and asking ourselves should

I be paddling out? Unfortunately a lot of surfers who should answer that question with a “no” simply brush off the responsibility. There are lots of surf spots out there, a lot of good point and reef breaks to choose from, but that’s not an invitation for the inexperienced to paddle out into the lineup. With that being said, summer has always been the season to learn how to surf, when getting your feet wet is the pun intended. Keep it fun and keep it real, and remember you’re not the only one in the lineup.

BILL TOVER

Enjoy.

Chuck Graham

WHO’S ON BOARD? DAVID PU’U Photographer David Pu’u is a photographer, cinematographer, and writer-director based in Ventura. He has a background in competitive athletics, and has competed nationally and internationally at an elite or professional level in a variety of sports. His still photography appears in editorial publications around the world and is used as the foundation for brand image development. He is a senior staff photographer and regularly published author for many publications. View his work at www.davidpuu. com or www.corbis.com, keyword: David Pu’u.

FRAN COLLIN Photographer Fran Collin is a photographer living in Carpinteria who loves the people that love the ocean, and especially everything edible that lives in it!

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE May/June 2012

JAMES FORTMAN Photographer Santa Barbara native James Fortman has been dabbling in surf photography since junior high when he graduated from disposable underwater cameras to a Minolta Weathermatic. These days, equipped with a digital camera, telephoto lens, and SPL water housing, he splits his time between Rincon and other points to the west.

JIM BREWER Photographer Jim Brewer is the founder/owner of Blueline Paddlesurf in Santa Barbara. Jim splits his time between surfing with his two young boys locally and traveling the world searching for exotic surf locations to photograph. “My style of photography is documentary. I want what my eyes see to come across in my photos exactly the same with no added postproduction bells and whistles. It’s all about being at the right place at the right time and capturing what is real.”

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News Gold coast carve. ASP / KIRSTIN

Hitting the Road Story and Photo by Chuck Graham

Off and Running

Conner Coffin won his first professional event at the North Shore Surf Shop Pipe Pro. ASP / KIRSTIN

By Chuck Graham

FTER the first two ASP World Championship Tour events in Australia, consistency has been the formula for maintaining the ratings’ lead. No big surprise 11-time world champ Kelly Slater finds himself in familiar territory at the top of the charts despite not winning a single event in Australia. He finished =5th at the Quiksilver Pro at Snapper Rocks and 2nd behind Australian Mick Fanning in the final at the Rip Curl Pro at Bells Beach. On the women’s side of things they’ve completed three events, the TSB Bank NZ Surf Festival featuring the Dow AgroSciences Pro along the Taranaki Coast, New Zealand the most recent.

TUE 01

6:11 3.92 12:36 0.51

WED 02

7:13 1:17

4.1 0.55

THU 03

8:09 1:56

4.25 0.65

MAY 2012 Tide Chart Ventura, CA

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE May/June 2012

FRI 04

9:01 2:36

4.32 0.81

SAT 05

9:54 3:17

4.3 1.02

Young upstarts Lakey Peterson and Sage Erickson have their hands full, finding the women’s elite tour more of a challenge. As it stands right now, Peterson is gradually progressing, finishing =9th, =5th and =3rd in the first three events. Peterson is currently 6th on the ratings. Ventura local Erickson is near the bottom of the ratings at =14th. Her best result is a =9th in New Zealand. At this point Erickson may need to requalify through the Women’s Star Events to remain on the women’s elite tour. She is currently rated 8th on the Women’s World Ranking. In the Junior Men’s Events, Santa Barbara local Conner Coffin continues his steady climb. He recently finished 4th overall in the Vans Pro Junior at Huntington Beach and is currently tied for 7th on the Junior Men’s World Ranking.

SUN 06

10:46 4.17 3:59 1.27

MON 07

11:41 3.99 4:44 1.57

TUE 08

6:13 -1.47 12:41 3.8

WED 09

7:09 1:47

-1.14 3.67

THU10

8:09 3:00

-0.71 3.69

TOM BROWN, a.k.a. Mr. Surf Junk (www. mrsurfjunk.com) has battled stage IV colon cancer since December 2008, and has made it his mission to bring cancer awareness to the surfing community. Overwhelmed by the support and love of his family and friends, Brown wanted to give something back, and he’s doing it through his Surfing for Life Foundation. With a $10 donation you receive three Surfing for Life wristbands that are now being worn by surfers around the world. All proceeds go toward charities devoted to fighting cancer. “The sole purpose is to spread the word about cancer education and bring awareness to the surfing community,” said Brown. Surf shops up and down the coast have been strong supporters of Brown’s foundation with each shop matching every sale with a $1 charity. Adding to that list of surf shops, Brown recently returned from France and the U.K. spreading cancer awareness with several surf shops now carrying his wristbands. One wristband at a time. The Surfing for Life Foundation can be reached at (805) 331-3063 or by visiting www. surfingforlife. org. Find them on Facebook too.

Tom Brown spearheading his charge against cancer.

FRI 11

9:13 4:13

-0.29 3.86

SAT 12

SUN 13

MON 14

TUE 15

10:17 0.09 5:14 4.15

11:16 0.41 6:03 4.46

5:48 3.66 12:07 0.7

6:56 3.6 12:50 0.97

WSURF.COM TIDE CHART

News

Crowd pleaser at Esteem Surf Co., Pismo Beach.

At Surf Country in Goleta with wetsuit winner.

J7 Surfboards raging in SB. PHOTOS BY BALZER.

California 1nvasion

Local Filmmakers Win Big

Story by Mike Vavak

By Ryan Richardson

N MARCH 10, Sundance Beach presented its fifth annual Surf Video Contest at the Lobero Theatre in Santa Barbara. Since its humble beginnings inside Sundance’s retail store in Goleta, the contest has steadily grown in popularity. “This year’s videos featured the best quality of surfing we have seen yet, and the capacity crowd of nearly 500 were stoked to see some sick surfing action on the big screen,” said Kimberly Wilson. As the doors opened and the event got underway, emcees Preston Berk and Chris Garcia got the crowd fired up and tossed out giveaways. The top 10 videos were then screened much to the crowd’s delight. Winners for the night included “Krooked Horizons” by Dana Bladzikowski for Best Surfing Footage; “What Is This” by Adam Lambert, Owen Scheid and Chris Riel was a double winner for the Best Cinematography and Best Overall; “A Thousand Colors” by Luc Blanchou won Most Original Film; “The Ricks” by Seth de Roulet was Best Overall second runner-up; and “The Queen”

IN AN ERA WHEN companies focus heavily on social media, Body Glove went grassroots and hit the road for its California 1nvasion. The California 1nvasion’s Episode 1 (L.A. to S.F.) took place February 18 to 24. Team riders Jamie O’Brien (JOB), Alex Gray, Nate Yeomans, Cheyne Magnuson, and Anthony Walsh piled into the Body Glove RV to share some good times and spread the love. The tour started in Body Glove’s hometown of Hermosa Beach with events at Spyder Surfboards and Dive N Surf. The California 1nvasion’s first stop on the Central Coast was J7 Surfboards in Santa Barbara’s “Funk Zone.” J7 got the party started early, and the BG crew was greeted by groms, hometown heroes, local pros, and BG’s latest rider, Demi Boelsterli. Having to move on to their next stop, the BG crew bid farewell to J7 and moved onto Goleta’s Surf Country. Another eager crowd, including the Dos Pueblos High School surf team was on hand, along with visitors from Japan and Germany, making it an international affair. Surf Country owner Doug Yartz manned the barbecue and the BG team raffled off more items. The tour then made its way up to Esteem in Pismo Beach where the BG crew threw an epic pizza party. . JOB and local groms spent the evening skateboarding, while the rest of the team shared stories of its winter in Hawaii. The Body Glove CALIFORNIA 1NVASION Episode 2 (O.C. to S.D.) will happen this summer. Visit www.bodyglove.com for dates.

by Andrew Schoener was the Best Overall first runner-up. Each winner received a cash prize, a Sundance Beach gift certificate, and a huge prize pack of apparel and surf equipment. After the show, everyone strolled to the back patio for an after-party. To the delight of the partygoers, the after-party was sponsored by Figueroa Mountain Brewery and catered by L&L Barbeque. The cool sounds of The Fire Department played throughout the night as everyone danced and laughed the night away until eventually heading to the after-after-party at Sandbar. “We look forward to producing an even bigger and better event for the 2013 Surf Video Contest and hope to see you there next year!” added Wilson. After the contest was held, viewers logged into Sundance Beach’s Facebook page and voted on one final winner. The Viewers Choice award went to “Wet Floors” by Paul Vallone. Visit www.sundancebeach.com/blog to view all of the winner’s surf films.

From left: Best Surfing Footage winner Dan Bladzikowkski. / Most original winner Luc Blanchou. / Best Overall and Best Cinematography winners Chris Riel, Owen Scheid and Adam Lambert. PHOTOS BY KRISTINE CRAMER

WED 16

7:52 1:27

3.58 1.22

THU 17

8:38 1:58

3.58 1.45

FRI 18

9:20 2:28

3.57 1.64

SAT 19

9:58 2:56

3.54 1.8

SUN 20

MON 21

TUE 22

WED 23

10:35 3.49 3:24 1.94

11:12 3.43 3:53 2.09

11:52 3.35 4:23 2.24

12:36 3.29 4:57 2.41

THU 24

6:41 1:25

-0.25 3.27

FRI 25

7:23 2:20

-0.06 3.33

SAT 26

SUN 27

MON 28

TUE 29

WED 30

8:09 3:16

8:59 4:07

9:52 4:52

10:46 0.85 5:33 4.69

11:38 1.05 6:13 5.24

0.16 3.51

WETSAND SURF SHOP 446 E. MAIN STREET VENTURA Not to be used for navigation. Do not rely on data for decisions that can result in harm to anyone or anything.

0.39 3.8

0.63 4.2

MAY 2012 Tide Chart Ventura, CA W W W.DEEPZINE.COM

Ladies Room

Get Off of My Cloud By Nicole de Leon

HE OTHER DAY while I was driving I saw a man with two children in the back seat of his car make an obscene gesture to a slower driver. I couldn’t decide if I should laugh at his ridiculous aggression or shake my head in dismay. Later that same day, I found myself in the water at a well-known point where the tension and aggression was incongruent to the beautiful day and conditions. Suspicious peripheral glances, furrowed brows and “up the beach” groveling for position was the scene in the lineup. The parallel between aggressive drivers and aggressive surfers was very apparent to me in that moment. Many of us in the water hold respectable jobs, are responsible parents, have good friends and good lives, and here we are barking at each other and trying to out-paddle each other to maintain position. I can’t help but wonder if this gift that we call the ocean is actually becoming a venue for ego-driven aggression. Where do we draw the line between how we behave in the water versus how we behave as empathetic humans? When did a smile in the water on a crowded day become a sign of weakness? People argue that the growing popularity and Internet accessibility of surf reports has clearly affected the congestion in our local lineups. This very well could be true. So the question is how do we navigate these scenarios safely? Can we trust ourselves to act in accordance to the often agreed-upon idea that the ocean is our “church” and still manage fun and S U R F R I D E R F O U N DAT I O N S A N TA B A R B A R A C H A P T E R

Photo by Tom Modugno

WORKING WITH YOU FOR 20 YEARS TO PROTECT OUR LOCAL BEACHES AND COASTLINE 1992-2012 August Chapter Mixer - August 16: Tom Modugno/Goleta Surﬁng- Surf Slide presentation in/ around Goleta and the Gaviota Coast • 7:00 pm @ Watershed Resource Center, Arroyo Burro Beach (next to the Boathouse), 2981 Cliﬀ Drive, Santa Barbara 2012 Mixer Schedule-Third Thursday of every other month. April 19, June 21, August 16, October 18. • FREE Chapter t-shirts to anyone who joins or renews membership at the mixers • All ages welcome

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE May/June 2012

Check out our NEW & IMPROVED website for upcoming event listings or to sign up on our monthly e-newsletter www.santabarbara.surfrider.org

Can’t we all just get along? L. PAUL MANN

safe surf sessions? Factors such as beginner surfers out on crowded days without control of their equipment provide us with even more challenges. Serious dangers clearly exist in the water when giant boards fly around like unguided missiles. Take local surfer and Patagonia employee Cyrus Michael Castella for instance. Back in January, on one of the most playful overhead and crowded days at Pipes, Castella was nailed in the side of the face by a long board that had been hastily ditched by another surfer, leaving Castella facedown and unconscious under water. Luckily, there was a surfer within range that noticed that Castella was unresponsive and quickly called for others to help. The quick reaction times of empathetic fellow surfers, turned out to be a lifesaver—literally. Notwithstanding the quick reaction of nearby surfers, Castella sustained a broken cheek, a concussion and had to have 27 stitches under his left eye. The surfer who let his board fly likely had no clue that his negligence would result in an all-night ER experience and month-long recovery time for the victim. Thank goodness that others’ humanity shone, and five people chose not to ignore their duties as fellow surfers. What is telling about Castella’s character is that he did not turn towards aggression and retaliation after this incident. Rather, he calmly spoke about the incident and how educating beginners on the dangers in the lineup and the most basic rules of surfing, like “not to ditch your board” is of the utmost importance. Castella stated, “When you go skiing, the runs are clearly rated in terms of experience level. You cannot rate the ocean that easily, which is why this is such a tough topic.” This young man, after sustaining life-threatening injuries that kept him out of the water for over a month, exemplifies patience and empathy. He believes paddling calmly up to a dangerous surfer to explain the problem is more effective than yelling at the culprit. Castella reiterates that navigating the lineup is a practice in patience and survival. Clearly, preliminary communication can be a virtue in these scenarios before lives are endangered. Of course, there are still some sweet spots where one can surf uncrowded waves with good friends. The issue is not that surfing has become a wholesale cesspool of negativity and danger. Rather, the issue is when those factors arise, how can we shift the energy in a more positive direction? It may sound like hippy jargon, but I do remember a time when doing good things for one another, waiting patiently for a slow driver, giving someone advice gently and refraining from paddling around another surfer even if we know we could easily do so, was held in higher regard than battling for the “wave of the day.”

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View From The Hill

The Surfbeat Galerie

Clockwise: Surfbeat’s front room. / Artist Ricky Brotini prepares for a live performance. / Co-owners Seth de Roulet and Oliver Parker sit outside Surfbeat Galerie.

A dialogue led by Ryan A. Smith / Photos by Seth Roulet FIVE MONTHS AGO, a funky little space in Santa Barbara was whimsically transformed from a makeshift storage facility into two surfers’ take on a youthful art gallery. DEEP sat down with gallery owner Oliver Parker and his business partner, Seth de Roulet, to get the skinny behind their new venture. DEEP: What are your day jobs? Seth de Roulet: I shoot surf and architectural photography. Oliver Parker: I guess I’d say I’m a private chef and a pro surfer. DEEP: Where’ d the gallery idea come from? SR: It’s a gallery, but it’s also a communal spot to come hang out, have a beer, meet up with people, and enjoy art. OP: Art is just another thing I have a long, deep appreciation for. My grandfather was an artist, my mom’s an artist; I’ve spent time doing art and graphic design, and I consider surfing as well as cooking forms of art. DEEP: How’ d you find this space, and where is it? SR: It’s at 22 Anacapa Street #5, in the old Diver’s Den building, behind Municipal Winery. OP: I moved from San Francisco back to Santa Barbara and found the space. I didn’t really know what I wanted to do with it, but I knew the space was awesome and it needed to be something. SR: I think, because we knew so many artistic people, that it kind of just naturally happened. We knew if we did this that we would have interest. OP: In the community there’s nothing like it. There’s no forum for surf artists to show their work, for the younger people, especially. And there’re no galleries in the funk zone, so it’s kind of a first.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE May/June 2012

DEEP: How did it start? SR: I was hanging out with Oliver one night, and my friend called and asked, “Hey, I’m looking for a place to play music in Santa Barbara. Do you know a spot?” And Oliver just said, “Well, I have space, we just need to move some furniture out of it.” OP: And I said to Seth, “Let’s turn it into something. Why don’t you show your photos and let’s just see what happens?” That was the first show, and it was pretty awesome. SR: It was six days of painting and hanging lights and moving furniture. OP: I had painted the sign first, a while back. That’s kind of what happened. I painted the sign and wrote “Galerie” on there, and I thought, “Huh.” SR: This was before I was even involved. OP: I thought, “Well, there’s the sign, so maybe we should turn it into a gallery.” DEEP: So you had the no-plan plan? SR: It’s been interesting, because we never really had a plan to start. It’s just happened organically, and I still don’t know if we have a plan. We keep going month to month, and... OP: …it’s progressed. We’ve just let it happen. It’s been a little loose in the past. From this time forward, though, Surfbeat should be open during the same hours as Art Walk, and also open by appointment. SR: The plan is to be open on weekends. And we are trying to open a new show at the beginning of every month. Hopefully, we’re going to be moving toward doing First Thursdays in Santa Barbara, too. OP: Being a part of the First Thursdays thing is going to be good, because that is something that’s developed, it’s now in cities everywhere. It’s a way to open galleries up and bring people out.

View From The Hill

DEEP: Is Surfbeat only for “surf art” and surfers who make art? OP: For now, there has to be some element of surf to it. SR: I think it has to be surfer influenced, but I don’t think it’s necessarily surf art; sometimes it’s just surfers who make art, and their art can be very far from surfing. It kind of keeps that common theme. DEEP: It seems the events have been a cool, loose, communal mix of surfers, shapers, all sorts of artists, and people that appreciate art. SR: In just four months, we’ve already had Shawn Stüssy in there, Jeff Divine hang work, Russell Crotty, and those are pretty big people to get onboard right at the beginning. Everyone was just really into supporting the cause. OP: Without the support, it would have died by now. After the first show, we were really stoked. It’s been all the people, the community, that say, “This is amazing, we want this. Keep doing it!” SR: Another thing is, the Command Z screen-printing business is right next to Surfbeat, and they have a big following. So, coordinating shows with Command Z has allowed for this cross-pollination, where their people, who aren’t necessarily surfers, come around and mingle with our group to bring these two separate art worlds together. It’s been pretty seamless. DEEP: What has Surfbeat shown so far? SR: The first show was one I did in December 2011, which was my trip to Africa. Then we did a second show of just my surf work, a winter 2011 surf recap. OP: That was a good one. SR: Then we did the group show, which was Travers Adler, Will Adler, Demi Boelsterli, Bummy Koepenick, Stüssy, Divine, Russell, and some others, which was really cool. Then Italian painter Riccardo Brotini, who did live art in his opening show, which was really inspiring. He produced Rick Griffin’s sperm. OP: [Laughs.] Yeah, right? That was great. SR: I was really disappointed more people didn’t come out for that show because it was maybe my favorite one yet. But it did bring out a lot of older shapers, like Brian Hilbers and Wayne Rich and all those guys. DEEP: What’s coming up next? SR: Two upcoming shows this summer will be art by Tyler Warren and then Shawn “Barney” Barron. OP: I’d like to expand and spread the concept to other cities, other coastal communities around the world. If we could develop a format… SR: …it’d be cool to have traveling shows. Have one show pass through six galleries in all different places. OP: I’d like to do some special dinner parties in the middle of the gallery and have some gourmet, beautiful, four-course dinners, so I could incorporate some of my cooking and still have the art exhibited. That could be really fun. SR: I’m going to do another show, for sure. There also might be some plein-air painters doing May. OP: We always have our eyes and ears open. We’ve talked about even having shapers show their boards, fine art surfboards, and that’s definitely coming in the future. And another thing we want to do is have some art book signings. Michael Kew’s “Crossings” book signing was the first. But also some fine art books, like coffee-table type books.

12 21 STAT E ST R E E T S A N TA B A R B A R A , C A 9 3101 (805) 845-1022 | ARBORCOLLECTIVE.COM

DEEP: Are you happy with the way it’s gone so far? OP: Being a new gallery and not exactly knowing what we’re doing, and being in the funk zone, has been very cool for me. To see paintings hung next to each other by an artist who’s shown around the world for 30 years aside an artist who’s never had a part in a show before … I love that, I think that’s great.

W W W.DEEPZINE.COM

Tidelines

The Santa Barbara Stubbie Redux

From left: Travers Adler with his Stubbie. / 6’7” stubbie shaped by Gregg Tally.

Story and Photos by Michael Kew

OU’VE HEARD of George Greenough. Of his eccentricity and innovations of surfboard design. Of his sharp spear that was the shortboard revolution. He is, in the words of Paul Gross, “the living personification of surfing’s evolution … beyond the scope of mere legend.” Legend began in 1966 via Santa Barbara’s first Wilderness Surfboards shop, located inside an ice factory on Cabrillo Boulevard. In 1970 the shop was moved to 317 South Alisos Street, where Wilderness lived until 2010, when it was

brutally bulldozed for a freewaywidening project. Last December, for Santa Barbara shapers Gregg Tally (of White Owl Surfboards) and Ryan Lovelace, a blessing surfaced from the wreckage. “In the Rincon parking lot,” Lovelace said, “I complimented a fellow on the White Owl sticker that graced his car’s rear window. He introduced himself as Cenen and told me he’d checked out my blog off and on for quite a while, and he was stoked on my work. He also told me he was the handler of a trio of templates saved from the Wilderness Shop’s demolition, and said I should take a

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE May/June 2012

look at them and, if I was interested, make use of them. My ears perked up, but when he showed them to me, I almost lost it. Then I picked up the phone.” Tally, a Santa Barbara native who’d grown up down the street from Greenough, was first on the line. “Apparently Cenen had been involved in demolishing the Wilderness Shop and had found these three templates behind a wall,” Tally said. “Ryan brought them over and we laid them out. They were full templates made from tar paper, and very deteriorated. The first two were little guns, but when we opened up the third one, I immediately saw that it was a 6’7” stubbie. Then when I got down to the tail and saw Greenough’s old Santa Barbara round-tail, I got goose bumps.” “When I held that template,” Lovelace said, “I tripped out knowing where it’d been and where it slept for so long.” Tally: “I’d say it is one of the original—if not the original—stubbie template from 1966 or 1967, when Greenough and Michael Cundith were working out of the old ice factory (or maybe they were still up at George’s parents’ house). They took one of George’s early balsa kneeboards and templated it, then stretched it out, so it was basically a long kneeboard that looked like a short longboard. “Those original stubbies were single-fin displacement hulls that evolved into having concaves and chines, as well as a rounder tail and a narrower nose. I recall watching guys like Richie West, Cundith, Danny Hazard, and Shaun Claffey (the best Santa Barbara surfer ever) tear it up on stubbies at Rincon and

the Ranch.” With this in mind, and the ancient black piece of tar paper before them, Lovelace and Tally grasped the obvious: a duplicate Masonite template was in order. The results? As the owner of Tally’s first board from said template, it has completely changed the way I approach surfing—the sling-shot flex-fin drive is all that matters. “Made for speed and power and maneuverability,” Tally said, “my White Owl stubbie is a direct copy off that old template. I’ve modernized the bottom contours a bit to a rounded or barrel vee, with a very soft chine and various flat areas and pinched rails.” “I find a lot of peace in using it in place of some of my older templates,” Lovelace said. “The curves fit a million different ways, and I’ve only used it directly about four times. I like tweaking it, using it as a 90percent base, and working the widepoint around to suit more modern styles of hull-riding.” In essence: Greenough, still a barefooted genius, is a man to be thanked and praised. “I consider the ‘Santa Barbara stubbie’ to be the start of 1967’s shortboard revolution in the United States,” Tally said, “and I consider George to be the main innovator of it all. Making these stubbies today really energizes me and reminds me of that youthful and exciting era when shortboarding was the cutting edge of surfing, and Santa Barbara was leading the way.” White Owl stubbies are sold exclusively at the Beach House in Santa Barbara. For more information, email whiteowlsurf@gmail.com.

Board Trachting

Shawn Tracht on a board that combines perfect lift, speed and maneuverability.

PROGRESSIVE SURFBOARDS

JASON RATH

“Hot Rod” By Shawn Tracht

F YOU’RE A SURFER, you probably know Dave Johnson in some way or another. For God’s sake he’s shaped over 30,000 surfboards and has been a top competitor at the Rincon Classic in multiple divisions for years. With a genuine stoke to be in the surfing industry and still make surfboards after all those years, Johnson is a guy who will give you more than just a great board, he’ll also entertain you with surf stories that are rooted in stoke all the way back to his grommet days. SHAPER’S CONCEPT

The Hot Rod is the best all around shortboard I have ever designed for Southern California. It evolved from the small wave/fish side of the design spectrum, so it excels in waves from 2-foot to 2-foot overhead. The unexpected and pleasant surprise is that it is equally effective in solid double overhead surf as well. The two key ingredients are the extra wide tail and the very deep concave that runs from the tip of the tail all the way through the nose. These boards skim high across the top of the water rather than plow through it, and they catch the wave as far out as a board a foot longer. The Hot Rod planes so high it would be too loose if not for the quad or “fiver” fin set up. Small quad trailers allow for tail slide and break free snap-cutty combos. Larger trailers turn it into a carving machine. With a quad plus a baby keel fin as a fifth wheel, your knees will buckle before it spins out. Unlike some designs—like the retro fish, displacement hulls—where each design element relies so heavily on the others that changing one thing can render the board virtually useless, the Hot Rod is extremely variable. I can modify any design element (width, thickness, rocker, rails) to suit the needs or preferences of each individual surfer. The result only enhances the Hot Rod’s performance, making it fun for me as a shaper to be creative and continue to evolve my favorite all time design! SURFER’S TAKE

Reducing drag is a key element to surfing as fast as you can. Scientist years ago figured out how to reducing drag of a moving object. One of them was Daniel Bernoulli

who published his “Bernoulli Principal,” in his book, “Hydrodynamica,” in 1738. His theory discussed how when water or air is moving through a pipe, the speed of the water or air can be increased if the space it is traveling through, the pipe, is narrowed at a particular point. Basically, the water or air will be traveling at a normal speed, and then when it hits the narrower part of the pipe, all of the energy will be channeled through a smaller opening, and when it shoots out the other side, it will create more energy, which creates lift, reduces drag, and helps increases speed, more or less. In surfboard terminology, the narrowing of the pipe would be similar to adding concave through the belly of the surfboard. Therefore, the surfboard travels faster on plane because Bernoulli’s Principal is in effect creating lift, reducing drag, and helping increase velocity. Most shapers add concave bottoms to modern shortboards, however, Johnson went to the extreme with the concept. Usually when you hold a board in your hand, down by your knees, you can see a very slight concave in the board. With Johnson’s Hot Rod, it looks like someone came through it with an ice cream scooper. The concave is so deep it’s alarming to most surfers on the beach. The benefits of this concave follow the idea of Bernoulli’s Principal. The deeper the concave, the more lift and less drag, equaling a faster board. From 2-foot to overhead, and especially in smooth water conditions, this board travelled at a tremendous speed across the water. With the addition of a wide, round tail and curve in the rocker, the board combined quickness from reduced drag and high performance surfing due to the curve in the board. Remember, flat equals fast and curve equals performance. Usually a flat bottom board will travel the fastest, yet loses performance and maneuverability characteristics. The Hot Rod uses science to get around needing the board to be flat to go fast. Instead, the extremely deep concave reduces drag while at the same time allows the shaper to leave many other parts of the board curvy (the rocker, the round wide tail, and the overall outline), which keeps the board very performance oriented.

Dave Johnson with his favorite shortboard shape of all time. SHAWN TRACHT

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Dave Johnson Board Shape/Design:

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5’10” x 18” x 2” Tracht ordered this board:

5’7” x 18 5/8” x 2 1/8” Shaper’s Contact info:

Phone: (805) 967-1340 Website: www.progressivesurfboards.com Email: progressivesurfboards@cox.net Surfer’s blog: www.surfwanderer.com W W W.DEEPZINE.COM

Northern Exposure

Above: Nathaniel Soares up and riding. GRETCHEN SOARES

Right: Ian Kimball breaking barriers. TRACI KIMBALL

Project Surf Camp By Dan Hamlin

OHN TAYLOR has always been an athlete. He grew up competing in swimming, water polo, soccer, and basketball. He played on club teams and school teams, and was varsity captain of his high school water polo team. In college, he was captain of the swim team. It may sound like Taylor is a typical gifted athlete, but he was born with a birth defect that left him with only one leg. So his success as an athlete is anything but typical. Being drawn to the water, Taylor naturally took to surfing. In 2007, after helping at a friend’s surf camp, he heeded the encouragement of friends and started a surf camp for children with disabilities. Project Surf Camp was launched in 2008 in Morro Bay. The program has steadily grown since its inception. PSC’s mission is

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE May/June 2012

to use surfing and the ocean as a means to help children with disabilities. Taylor said, “Project Surf Camp uses surfing, the beach, and other ocean activities as an educational modality to build self-confidence, self-esteem, and self-efficacy in individuals with special needs. We further provide opportunities to build social skills, help improve physical fitness, develop healthy outlets for stress reduction, and foster independence.” Not only does PSC help children with disabilities, but the organization also aims to help at-risk youth, such as those in foster care. Organizers try to keep camps small (about 10 kids per camp) to allow for maximum care for the children. One of the things that has helped make PSC a success is the experience of the staff. Though they use many volunteers to help with

activities, PSC has specialists on site helping with instruction and care for the children. Taylor has worked as a rehabilitation therapist himself and is currently a special education teacher in San Luis Obispo County. Taylor cites community support as another key component to the camp’s success. The area’s local fire and police departments, the Coast Guard, and various other organizations have all volunteered with PSC. In 2010, PSC staff Katy Davis invited The TODAY Show to join PSC for a day of camp. As a result, PSC went on to finish runner-up in the show’s nation-wide grant contest presented by Pepsi called “What Do We Care About TODAY.” The contest winners were determined by public voting. “It’s kind of incredible really, that a small town organization like ours would do so well in such a large

contest. We were going up against other organizations from big cities like Seattle and such. It just shows how much the local community has supported us.” It’s easy to see why PSC has garnered the support of the local community. In a day and age where it is easy to be cynical, PSC aims to help and support children that are often overlooked. As surfers, we get to experience the intangible “stoke” that the ocean offers and benefit from our ability to enjoy it. PSC provides an avenue by which to share that blessing with those in need of it. It also provides a tangible way to have a positive effect on someone else’s life. And that’s something that we can all get behind. To find out more about Project Surf Camp or to see how you can help, visit www.projectsurfcamp.com.

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What’s Your Komunity Project? MATTY SCHWEITZER DEEP Surf Magazine and Komunity Project have teamed up to bring you this new column. The column will feature a group or individuals that are helping out in their communities and trying to make a change for the good of Mother Earth.

Project Save Our Surf Ambassador Trae Candy

Clockwise from left: Trae Candy. / Toes over. / Candy spent the day surfing with these students from the Costa Verde School and now is raising money to benefit the school.

By Katie McLean

HAT DO Pamela Anderson, Rob Machado, and local 16-yearold Trae Candy have in common? They share a love for the ocean and a concern for clean water. They also participate in Project Save Our Surf, a non-profit organization comprised of surfers and celebrities. PSOS is committed to raising awareness and funds for fresh drinking water and pollution-free seas. Through local beach clean-ups, surf contests, and ambassador trips, PSOS is giving back to communities and groups like Santa Monica Baykeeper, Tumelo Home and Waves for Water. Surf 24, a 24-hour surf contest held at Huntington Beach Pier, is its biggest event and includes surf teams of celebrities and pro surfers competing to raise funds. The event gathers tents of other environmental, humanitarian, and well-being organizations offering samples and live demonstrations while beachfront surf movies and live music provide free entertainment. Last year’s performance featured PSOS board member Brandon Boyd of Incubus. While this year’s performers are still secret, Karon Pardue, VP of PSOS, said, “This August will be the biggest Surf 24 yet.” Hosted by PT Townend and a panel of ASP judges, the contest offers no sympathy to celebrity competitors like John Slattery of Mad Men or Sam Trammell of True Blood. Celebrity participation in the event helps bring widespread publicity, awareness, and funding to causes important to surfers. But even with the fame of these names, it’s a shy 16-year-old long boarder from Goleta, Trae Candy, that last year raised the most money for Surf 24. Receiving an award from PSOS co-founder Shaun Thompson for his contribution on Team Santa Barbara Seals, Candy showed that anyone with a passion for the ocean can make a huge difference. While it seems like this soft spoken and huge hearted boy came out of the blue, Candy has been volunteering all his life. “Trae’s the type to give his last dollar or shirt off his back for someone,” his mother, Karon, said. Candy was giving his time to help teach amputees and children with autism to surf when he found out about PSOS. He emailed founder Tanna Frederick to see how he could help, and she was astonished that someone who wasn’t a celebrity or pro surfer wanted to be involved. Even more astounding was the fact that Candy was still in high school. He quickly showed he was committed, spending as much time as he could helping at events, attending fundraisers and raising funds. “You never have to tell Trae to pay attention. He’s on it all the time. In the water, on the beach, in the parking lot, in the car, wherever he’s at, he’s taking it all in,” said Bob Howard, one of Candy’s shapers. “He is a very aware young man, which is quite refreshing. His listening is smart. It lets you learn something about both what to do and what not to do.”

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE May/June 2012

Candy’s dedication to making a difference has made him an ambassador for PSOS and now the head of his own affiliated program, Hands On. Through Hands On, Candy is organizing monthly beach clean-ups at home and where ever he travels. Since December, he has helped clean Rincon, Campus Point, Oahu’s North Shore, and Sayulita, Mexico—where he also spent a day teaching the students of Costa Verde School to surf. By the next Surf 24, Candy’s all longboard team, headed by himself and including Mary Osborne and Jesse Timm, hope to raise $5,000 for Costa Verde. Candy is in constant contact with the school since his last trip and is adamant about supporting their art and sciences education, as well as their vegetable garden and continual beach clean-ups. “Trae has become quite the role model for young teens,” said Osborne. Candy manages to gracefully balance being in high school, heading Hands On, traveling, and competing in the NSSA for Dos Pueblos High School, all while keeping a calm smile and polite demeanor. “His traditional longboard style stands out from most young surfers nowadays. Trae’s certainly picked up some classic skills by watching his favorite surfers Mickey Dora and Robert “Wingnut” Weaver perform on the big screens. His graceful approach to nose riding and smooth drop knee turns definitely stand out from the rest and will only get better as he blossoms,” added Osborne. “Last year, Trae only made one final on the high school team. So I took him to Malibu at dawn every day last summer, and he bloomed,” said his mother. With dedication and coaching support from JP Garcia, Trae won last year’s Call to the Wall contest at Malibu. He recently even beat idol Wingnut Weaver in Sayulita’s Longboard Classic. “Trae’s surfing is heading very quickly to what Terry Martin calls, ‘As good as they get.’ He loves noseriding, and is extremely good and stylish at it. In fact all of his surfing is stylish, which sets him apart; far apart,” said Howard. Trae is leaving huge impressions in the water and on the beach with his surfing and his commitment to cleaner beaches and healthier communities. Next on Trae’s agenda is surf-a-thon fundraiser in Montauk, N.Y., and a trip to South Africa to distribute water filters with John Rose. There’s also excitement about the new recycled PSOS and Hands On shirts and jewelry that will be sold at Neiman Marcus, Fred Segal, and featured in a fashion show at Ventura’s Film Festival in July. In April there will be a beach clean-up with the Mesa Surf Club at Ledbetter Beach in Santa Barbara, and in May with the San Marcos High Special Education department at Hendry’s Beach. To find out more, visit the Project Save Our Surf Facebook page or www.projectsaveoursurf.org.

PHOTO ESSAY

BROOKS SEAS

Ernie Brooks By Chuck Graham

HEN I lead kayak tours out at Channel Islands National Park, I often tell visitors they’re only seeing half the park, that there’s a whole other world beneath our kayaks that extends one nautical mile around the five islands. The national park holds a third of the kelp forests off the coast of California, an important resource worth protecting considering the degradation along the mainland. Those fragile underwater resources come to light in this issue’s photo essay in the fine art, black and white photography of Ernie Brooks, who has devoted his entire professional life to capturing images of pelagic ecosystems in every ocean around the globe. “I try to create a timeless portrayal of my love of the sea,” said Brooks, a photographer for 40 years, “a lasting memory without a timeframe or data, and a simple statement that all can read.” Brooks comes from fine photography stock, a long line of successful photographers within his Portuguese ancestry. His grandmother was a portrait photographer, his uncle a landscape photographer, and his father, Ernest H. Brooks Sr., who was a commercial and flower photographer, founded Brooks Institute of Photography in 1945, over a bakery on State Street in Santa Barbara. His mentors include Armando Salas Portugal of Mexico, Hans Hass of Austria, and our own Ansel Adams. “The choice wasn’t difficult,” Brooks continued, referring to the direction he took with his photography. “What remained was my love of the sea.” Having just returned from the 100th anniversary of the Ernest Shackelton expedition to Antarctica, Brooks has dived and photographed in every ocean. He cites the Channel Islands National Park, where he began his 7,000 hours of diving, and the coral reefs of the Indo Pacific as favorite locations. “Meeting with divers from every walk of life, the word is conserve and protect,” said the former president of Brooks. “It’s each person doing his and her part to make a difference for all.” To see more of Brooks’ photography and for his current projects and gallery openings, go to www.photokunst.com.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE May/June 2012

Hide and go seek.

Porpoises surfing the bow.

Symmetry.

Red coral sea fans.

Freedom.

Vase coral.

Spill.

Magnificent blue.

PHOTO ESSAY: BROOKS

Jellyfish Genesis.

Schoolâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s out.

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Comen Sense

Challenge Yourself By Craig Comen No matter what level you have achieved in the world of water sports, one thing should always be part of your modus operandi— challenge yourself. There are many ways that new boundaries can be set, not only by such risky ventures as slab hunting 50-footers, high-flying punts and reverses, or reaching out of the way places. Here are a few simple ways to change things up.

Matt Gallagher fins free on the Central Coast. RANDALL HAMILTON

SINGLE-FIN SURFING

With the evolution of the three-fin board, surfboards got much more friendly. If you spend a good amount of time riding a singlefin, it becomes clear that the feet have to find the sweet spot, and each turn needs to be crisp in order to move onto the next. There is much less room for error, and one’s style cleans up whether one likes it or not. Set a goal and try to stick with a certain amount of time to get in the groove of things. SWITCH-FOOT SURFING

What better way to feel like a kook, or beginner, than to give switchstance a try every session? Eventually a few lights will click, and the ben-

efits gained are immense. The body will perhaps even out muscle wise and skeletally. Think of doing yoga only on one side. We are forgetting a whole other aspect of ourselves when it comes to wave riding. TRY DIFFERENT EQUIPMENT

There are so many boards out there to choose from, and it is a shame to only ride one genre. Like all of the above, trying different approaches, lengths, fin set-ups, and yes, even SUP surfing will brighten your outlook and expand your way of being a surfer. When you go back to your normal board it will feel even livelier and fresh again. SURF WITHOUT A LEASH

It used to be the only way of surfing, and the strengths it will bring are multiple. Going leash-less promotes swimming skills, makes you less likely to fall, boosts confidence, and teaches better wave knowledge. TAKE A BREAK

As hard as it is for me to stay out of the water, sometimes when I do, the next session after the break is sweeter and like a new beginning. There are many reasons to take a break that we do not choose, but a voluntary one can be a healthy decision and a fasting of sorts. Faster, Deeper, Tighter, Higher w w w. f c d s u r f b o a r d s . c o m

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE May/June 2012

Every time out push yourself a little harder (within reason) and see what your limits are. Every level from beginner to pro can experience a heightened sense of challenge by being aware of their true abilities and searching for a higher benchmark. Consciously doing this will bring beneficial results and improve your skills. I remember watching guys try their first airs and thinking they were blowing it, and than a year later they were on top of the world. Do not be afraid to try new things. It is the golden age of our sport and it comes with the golden age of tech. Together they allow us to see the best surfers perform, read their first hand commentary, use the equipment they have perfected and catch the same spots they do. Our surfing history is rich and should not be ignored; yet at the same time we can now be a part of the new story and take advantage of all it has to offer. The list I came up with can go on and on, and hopefully I can see you out there trying some of the things I suggested, and oh yeah, when trying them, please do not run anyone over.

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2012 SWIMSUIT ISSUE

Photo by David Pu’u. Model: Alma Billgren in Sophia by Vix.

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Swimsuit Issue

THE ENCHANTED COAST

The Gaviota coastline stretches from Goleta north to Point Conception; an interesting place Point Conception is. As the westernmost point of land in the continental U.S., it has several characteristics that make it very distinctive. Photos and Story by David Puâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;u

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE May/June 2012

Swimsuit Issue

grew up in Goleta, and the Gaviota

Coast—“seagull” in Spanish—has been my playground and home for most of my life. In that stretch, it ranges from the Channel Islands, across the ocean to the top of the Santa Ynez Coastal Mountain range. Foremost for me is its deeply spiritual significance. The Chumash Nation believes it to be the geographic location of the Western Gate, which is where souls leave the Earth for the next plane of existence. I have little doubt regarding the veracity of this legend. >>

1. Refugio. 2. (cover swimsuit)AlmainSophia byVix,availableatRincon Designs (Carpinteria). 4 3.AlmainO’NeillPenny Lane,availableatA-Frame (Carpinteria). 4. Lars in AnalogLockedUp,availableatWetSand(Ventura). 5.JeffinQuiksilverCypher Resin(www.quiksilver.com) andOakleyDispatchII(www.oakley.com).6.LarsinBodyGloveVoodoo’s,availableatSurfCountry(Goleta).

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Swimsuit Issue 6

<< I have surfed, swam, run, walked, hiked, sailed, fished, dove, flown, boated, created and loved there. What I have experienced on this enchanted stretch ofcoastline would fill many books. In all my travels around the world, the only other places I have roamed as extensively are certain locations in Hawaii. Close friends of mine live there and are stewards of their land, some of which was taken from the Chumash by the Spanish and in turn, U.S. governments. They have a deep and abiding respect for the soil on which they have placed their homes. I cherish their investment. They all have been incredibly gracious to me over the yearsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;sharing would be the appropriate word. They own the land, yet they see it as special enough to let me play on it when I ask. >>

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE May/June 2012

Swimsuit Issue 7

1.HaileyinRoxyWildEscapeTikiTriand70sLowriderTieSide (www.roxy.com)andAsiainRipCurlAmazoniantopandL*Space Moniquebottoms,availableatRevolutionSurfCo.(Camarillo). 2.JonathaninRSSurf,availableatCurrentUnlimited(Goleta). 3.AsiainVolcomLazyDays(RevolutionSurfCo.).4.LarsinPatagoniaMinamalistWavefarer(www.patagonia.com).5.AsiainSoWhat Surf ‘n’ Skate girls Tank and Booty Shorts., available at SoWhatSurf‘n’Skate(Topanga).6.AsiainL*SpaceIbiza,available atSundanceBeach(Goleta),andAlmainKnottyGirl,availableat Rincon Designs, TropiCali (Santa Barbara) and Ojai Pool. 7.JeffinOakleyHypersonictrunksandOakleyDispatchIIsunglasses(www.oakley.com).8.JonathaninVolcomFundaMental’s, availableatRinconDesigns(Carpinteria).9.JeffinBodyGlove Vapors,availableatHomegrownSurfShop(Ventura)andProLite hat,availableatSoWhatSurf‘n’Skate(Topanga).10.Larsin BillabongDonovanFrankenreiterCollection,availableatVentura SurfShop(Ventura).11.HaileyinTavikKikitopandReefbottoms, availableatWetSand(Ventura).12.AlmainBoys+ArrowsPatsy thePlayer,availableatSundanceBeach(Goleta).13.AsiainRip CurlAmazoniantopandL*SpaceMoniquebottoms,availableat RevolutionSurfCo.(Camarillo).14.LarsinBillabongGarage Collection, available at A-Frame (Carpinteria). W W W.DEEPZINE.COM

Swimsuit Issue

<< A string of three State Beaches

lie in the midst of the coast. Gaviota is northernmost, then Refugio, then south to El Capitan. Each park is a gateway to a unique experience. I hope that our beleaguered state manages to keep them open. But there are also numerous free and legal coastal access points all along this remarkably vital stretch of coastline. When DEEP Surf Magazine Director Andres Nuño dropped me a note and asked if I wanted to shoot the annual Swimsuit Issue again, I knew exactly what I wanted to do: honor this coastline and share it with my friends and crew members. But doing it in the dead of winter was going to be a trick. Making it even more complex was a tricky La Niña weather season. DEEP’s Swimsuit Issue is a very complex project. What makes it difficult beyond the chilly weather and water factors, is how the publication acquires the apparel and who they attempt to serve. Local retailers, manufacturers and advertisers supply the goods during the time of year when new lines are being released. It is all about tight deadline. >>

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE May/June 2012

Swimsuit Issue

1. Hailey in Volcom Rear View Posso, available at A-Frame (Carpinteria). 2. Jonathan in SoWhatSurf‘n’Skatetank,availableatSoWhatSurf‘n’Skate(Topanga),BillabongPlatinumXStriker’s,availableatVenturaSurfShopand JupiterSquaredbyOakley(www.oakley.com).3.JonathaninHippieTreeTetons,availableatHomegrown(Ventura)andOakleyJupiterSquared (www.oakley.com).4.LarsinQuiksilverCypherReynoldsRevolt(www.quiksilver.com),andJulianWilsonSignaturesbyOakley(www.oakley.com). 5.AsiainQuiksilverDawnPatrol,availableatBikiniFactory(Summerland).6.SierrainRoxyDaisyRhapsodyhalterandCrochetSurferbottoms (www.roxy.com).7.SierrainTylerRoseHeyGirlandPeterGrimmJahLovehat,availableatRinconDesigns(Carpinteria).8.AlmainOakleyPeaches BikinitopandAsiainPatagoniaTuamotutopandSurfSkirt(www.patagonia.com).9.JeffinOakleyLikeaFlash(www.oakley.com).10.Thegirls. 11. Sierra in Jelly Swimwear, available at Current Unlimited (Goleta).

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<< I was challenged to assemble something special.Â No large corporate

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE May/June 2012

entity is invited to be solely represented, and the lineup of product for 2012 was vast. It required magic. So I figured we would do it on the Gaviota Coast and I selected Refugio State Beach, the place I had learned to surf so many decades ago. It is an idyllic setting. Both President Reagan and Michael Jackson lived up canyon, along with some friends of mine. I know every inch of the place, and I trust it. Long story short for the sake of space here, Andres and his girlfriend Brianna Russell worked their magic. Donna Von Hoesslin, my stylist and who I like to use for design, threw down, along with the remarkable collective of friends who work as my models and collaborators and who comprise the tapestry of my life.

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1.Fromleft,HaileyinOakleyCookin’topandSpikedbottoms (www.oakley.com)andSierrainJellySwimwear,availableatCurrentUnlimited(Goleta).2.AsiainL*SpaceAudreyFringetopand L*SpaceTesseraeFoxyTabbottom,availableatVenturaSwimwear (Ventura).3.AsiainTylerRoseSomeLikeItHautandRoxyCantina hat,availableatRinconDesigns(Carpinteria).4.HaileyinVolcom DinerDothalterandSoftWaistbottom.,availableatVentura Swimwear(Ventura).5.JonathaninBillabongStrikers,availableat VenturaSwimwear(Ventura).6.AsiainMaajiStarfish,available atWetSand(Ventura).17.AsiainAcaciaSayulita,availableat SundanceBeach(Goleta)andOakleyChangeoverMademoiselle (www.oakley.com).8.AlmainVolcomSultry,availableatA-Frame (Carpinteria).9.Fromleft,JonathaninVolcomLosPockitos(Rincon DesignsinCarpinteria)andProLitehat(SoWhatSurf‘n’Skatein Topanga),SierrainBoys+Arrows(RinconDesigns),AsiainAcacia Sayulita(SundanceBeachinGoleta),AlmainHappyEndingz(www. happyendingz.com),JeffinQuiksilverCypherSeries(Sundance BeachinGoleta)andBillabongtrucker(RinconDesigns),Hailey inVolcomRearViewPosso(A-FrameinCarpinteria)andLars inVolcomV4S(RevolutionSurfCo.inCamarillo)andLowTide Risinghat(SurfCountryinGoleta).AllglassesprovidedbyOakley (www.oakley.com).10.AlmainRaisinsRoseHalterandKauaiKini bottoms,vailableatBikiniFactory(Summerland).11.JeffinBody GloveVapors(HomegrownSurfShop)andProLitehat(ASoWhat Surf‘n’Skate).12.LarsinOakleyBlades(www.oakley.com).13. SierrainBoys+Arrows(RinconDesigns).14.AlmainPatagonia TuamotutopandBayonnebottoms(www.patagonia.com)and sarong,availableatA-Frame(Carpinteria).15.JonathaninOakley Radio Actives (www.oakley.com).

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>> >> Kyle Sparks, one of my favorite assistants;

Bethany Fankhauser, who is a mentor project of mine; Jeff Belzer from Ventura Makos; and Rob Dafoe, my partner in cinema crime, and lifelong friend, all agreed to come and make this DEEP swimwear shoot happen. My goal was to make it fun and provide a creative foil where each person could create some fantastic work as an artist. Oh, and I cast my son Jonathan, who is a Muay Thai fighter, a multi-sport athlete and a creative guy (writing that makes me smile). I also asked my friend and colleague Dr. Andrea Neal, who is a Science Advisor for Blue Ocean Sciences, Ocean Futures, and Project Kaisei, to come along. There is a lot of B.S. being employed as political propaganda regarding the oceans and coastline today. Dr. Neal, being one of the foremost experts on marine environments in the world, is someone I really cherish getting to hang out with. We have been engaged in a lot of dry time lately. I wanted to add some water to the relationship. Plus, she is a killer foodie. On the day of the shoot, the weather and swell were enchanting. A stronger more evocative word would be magic. But the most rewarding descriptor would be “fun.” Here it is. The Enchanted Coast: Gaviota.

Location: Refugio State Beach Producer: Andres Nuño Assistant Producer: Brianna Russell Director: Lead photographer David Pu’u Cinematographer: Rob Dafoe First Assistant: Photographer Kyle Sparks Second Assistant: Photographer Bethany Fankhauser Designer: Donna Von Hoesslin Science and Coastal advisor: Dr. Andrea Neal, Blue Ocean Sciences Tanning Services: Solymar Tanning, Mary Osborne Surfing, Lifeguard Services: Jeff Belzer of Ventura Makos

and Lars Rathje

1.AsiainAcaciaHaikutopandHamoabottoms,availableat WetSand(Ventura).2.JonathaninBrixtonPlanks(WetSand inVentura),JeffinReefBrokenGlass(SurfCountryinGoleta), DispatchIIbyOakley(www.oakley.com)andRhythmJamBackpack (www.rhythmlivinusa.com),andLarsinO’NeillLopezFreaks (SundanceBeachinGoleta).3.HaileyinRoxyWildEscapeTikiTri and70sLowriderTieSide(www.roxy.com).4.JonathaninQuiksilver CypherKellyNomads(www.quiksilver.com),LarsinOakleyBlade’s (www.oakley.com),andJeffinRhythmFlagOn’s(Homegrownin Ventura).5.Waterbreak.6.Fromleft,AlmainKnottyGirl(Rincon Designs,TropiCaliandOjaiPool),AsiainL*SpaceIbiza(Sundance BeachinGoleta),SierrainRoxyAgainsttheTideSurferTriand SurferTieSide,andHaileyinSeaweedsSwimShelby(Homegrown Surf Shop in Ventura).

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE May/June 2012

Models: Jonathan Pu’u, Hailey and Sierra Partridge,

Asia Carpenter, Alma Billgren, Belzer and Rathje

DEEP Reviews VANS BOARDIES

BODY GLOVE GNARWHAL �� $69.50 Features V-fly closure for secure fit. Means no chafing! Side pocket with laser-cut mesh drainage so that boardshort can be packed into for travel. Tricked out with wax comb, bottle opener, leash loop, and flathead screwdriver. Elastane superstretch. VANS ERA CLASSICS

Checkerboard Bittersweet & Punch �� $54.50 The Era Classic Boardshorts look like the Vans on your feet. They are lightweight, water-resistant and over time molds to the contours of your legs. Also featured is a no-slip drawstring with side pockets.

MEN’S VAPOR ��$539.95 Whether kayaking, standup paddling or surfing, I found the Body Glove Men’s Vapor 2/1mm Long Arm Shorty to be a vital piece of equipment in my oceanic endeavors. Body Glove uses Vapor Stretch: superior, water repellent, super-stretch neoprene. I get comfort and flexibility along with the water repellent neoprene that doesn’t sacrifice performance and durability—key attributes when putting a wetsuit to the test. The Vapor Stretch water repellent technology is located in the shoulders and arms, and the Magna Flex in the under arms, body and legs is the highest performance stretch material there is, 10 percent lighter than standard neoprene. Other features include a left arm exterior zip key pocket, slant zip chest entry and deboss printing on the chest. To get maximum usage, always rinse in cool fresh water and hang to dry out of direct sunlight. –Chuck Graham

Available at: Pancho’s Surf Shop in Pismo Beach

KOMUNITY PROJECT COMP CORD ��$22.00 The Comp Cord comes in 6-foot and includes padded neoprene, a solid urethane cord, a detachable triple wrap rail saver and his custom molded fittings. The double swivel design insures a wrap-free session. Comes in black, blue, lime and orange.

TRACTION PADS

Collaborated with Kelly Slater to develop pads that grip like “flypaper.” All traction pads feature Kelly’s 10x Boost Tail Kick made of high density EVA.

SLATER’S PADS ��$40.00 (See #1) One-piece pad, 14” long, molded traction grip and 20mm kick.

SLATER’S GROM PADS ��$36.00

(See #2) 12” long, elevated square grip, 7mm arch and 20mm kick.

ICON PADS ��$36.00 3

LORI GRAHAM

Available at: www.bodyglove.com

SCOSCHE INDUSTRIES BOOMCAN ��$24.99 Slightly larger than a film cannister, the boomCAN, pumps out big sound despite its small footprint—perfect for those long surf trips. It plugs into a 3.5mm headphone jack making it compatible with virtually any portable media player. Its rechargeable lithium-ion battery provides up to seven hours of music playback. FLIPCHARGE FAMILY OF CHARGERS �� $44.99 to $59.99 Ever been caught with a dead battery in the middle of a surf trip? Check out the flipCHARGE burst and flipCHARGE rogue—a new line of back-up battery and charger lines. They provide instant power to your iPhone and iPod. The flipCHARGE rogue sports a powerful 1800mAh lithium polymer battery, capable of fully charging a dead iPhone or iPod. The flipCHARGE burst provides an emergency 30% power burst to an iPhone and can charge a dead iPod up to 70% full.

flipCHARGE Burst

Both flipCHARGE models are recharged by plugging into any computer, wall or car charger.

(See #3) Three-piece pad, 12” long, elevated square grip, 10mm arch and 25mm kick.

Available at: www.komunityproject.com

Santa Barbara Maritime Museum

Available at: www.scosche.com

flipCHARGE Rogue

HENDRY’S BEACH JUNIOR LIFEGUARDS

113 Harbor Way, Suite 190 • (805) 962-8404 x115 • www.sbmm.org May 2012 - 2014 Lost Art Posters Exhibit Surf Artist Rick Sharp

May 17, 7 pm Diving the Montebello by Bob Schwemmer Free(members), $5(non-members)

June 21, 7 pm Underwater Photography by Tom Campbell Free(members), $5(non-members)

June 9, June 23, July 14, July 28 Saturday 10 am - 12 noon Art Classes Call 962-8404 x115 to register

Fi l ms (check website for times) Daily Films Sir Francis Drake Above Santa Barbara Ghosts of the Abyss Sharks on Their Best Behavior Shackleton’s Antarctic Adventure Santa Barbara and the Sea

Surf Saturday Films The Big Swell Above Santa Barbara Bustin Down the Door Women and the Waves Innermost Limits of Pure Fun Santa Barbara and the Sea The Craving

O pe n eve r yday e xce pt We dnesday 10 am - 5 pm (free ever y 3rd Th u rsd ay o f t h e m onth )

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE May/June 2012

FUN AND EDUCATIONAL PROGRAM

Provides children 8-17 instruction in lifesaving, rescue techniques, water safety, first aid, CPR, marine ecology, the environment and marine life.

ACTIVITIES: Include paddling, surfing, body surfing, running, swimming, water sports and beach games.

PROGRAM:

Improves your child’s physical conditioning and emphasizes the importance of safety, respect and teamwork.

Session 1: July 2 - 20 • Session 2: July 23 - Aug. 10 $270 ($245 each additional sibling) for single session $450 ($410 each additional sibling) for both sessions Early drop off available. $25 early enrollment discount.

For more information visit www.sbparks/jg sbcojg@sbparks.org • 805-729-5028

Ventura Swimwear COMEDY SHOWS EVERY Wed. - Sun. 2 for 1 Admission w/this ad. Reservations required. *Not valid for Special Events Exp. 7/1/2012

May 18-19

Brad Williams Born with Achondroplastic dwarfism, Brad turned to comedy to make other people comfortable. He tours with Carlos Mencia.

May 25-27

Mike Pace

An Emmy nominee, Mike is a regular on HBO’s Aspen Comedy Arts Fest, Larry David’s “Curb Your Enthusiasm” and “Comic Relief.”

Call (805) 644-1500 for Reservations

WWW.VENTURAHARBORCOMEDYCLUB.COM

“Where it’s all about the fit and making you look good”

Beach Break Surf Shop Closest Shop to the Beach

B Swim • Luli Fama Vix • L Space •Billabong O’Neill • Reef • Volcom Lucy Love • Maui Babe Awesome Selection of Swimwear Separates & 1-Pieces Infants to plus sizes Men’s & Boys

1559 Spinnaker Dr. • 642-6281

Open Daily 10am – 6pm (805) 650-6641 • Suite 108 www.beachbreaksurfshop.com Robert August • Body Glove • Indo Hoven • Zinka • Dewey Weber Sanuk • Kahuna • Santa Cruz • Rainbows

From left: Coconuts are never hard to find in Micronesia. / Local groms amongst the mangroves. / Tiger Shark. / Sunset from atop Sokehs Rock. / View from the restaurant of the Village Hotel. Below: The anticipation of what lies immediately ahead for this unidentified Japanese charger.

SHARKBITE RIGHT

A Palikir Pass Yarn By Michael Kew

OHNPEI is one of those primordial tropical islands you might see in action movies and adventure reality shows, except none have been filmed there— Hollywood can’t find it on a map and probably never will. There are lots of pretty waterfalls and dense, misty jungles, but the island has no beaches, it’s too damn far away, it rains often, and the locals are typically stoned off weed or drunk from sakau.

Alone with your thoughts...

With its immaculate satellite atolls of Ant and Pakin, lush little Pohnpei (PON-pay), one of three Senyavin Islands within the 500 Caroline Islands, occupies a few thousand muggy acres of the West Pacific. It is the capital of the Federated States of Micronesia (FSM), a sovereign island nation that includes the states of Yap, Chuuk, and Kosrae, about seven degrees above the equator, east of Palau, north of New Guinea. Ringed with mangrove forest, its lagoon and healthy barrier reef are pierced with 21 passes. Only 13 miles wide, Pohnpei, which means “upon a stone altar,” is the FSM’s biggest, tallest (Mt. Nahna Laud is 2,595 feet), most developed, and most populated (34,500) island, a smaller, rainier (more than 300 inches annually), more remote but similarly verdant cousin of Tahiti, with good diving, fishing, and the flawless right-hand barrels of Palikir Pass, two miles off the island’s northwest coast. Alan Hamilton moved from Palos Verdes to Santa Barbara in 1967, when he was 17. In 1971, a few months after a guy named Mort McIntosh had first surfed Pohnpei, Hamilton and partner John Bradbury became the first owners of a parcel (#55) in the Hollister Ranch, where the regular-footed Hamilton surfed exclusively. A diehard sailor, he became a commercial fisherman, skippering Alamo, an old shrimp boat based in Santa Barbara Harbor. In 1987 he hired an energetic Pohnpeian deckhand named Danny, who was in Santa Barbara illegally as an undocumented alien. “After Pohnpei and those other islands got their independence in 1986,” Hamilton told me, “they hired this guy named Bill Bixler to go out and do a survey of the tuna. Bixler hired Danny, and when they were done surveying, they smuggled him back to Santa Barbara, and he started getting jobs on everybody’s boats.” At Danny’s urging, Hamilton visited Pohnpei in early April 1991. He brought two surfboards with him and stayed at Danny’s house at the base of Sokehs Rock. “I got a map of Pohnpei and saw Palikir Pass on it,” Hamilton said. “I thought it looked like a good setup for surf. Danny was there with me, and he had a little boat, and I said, ‘Danny, take me out to this pass.’ We went out there, and it was just this dynamite wave.” Palikir was offering glassy, head-high sets. It was Hamilton’s second day on Pohnpei; he stayed two months. One night, Hamilton was in a smoky bar, shooting pool with FSM president Bailey Olter. Olter offered Hamilton the job of skippering the 80-foot Kocho, a Japanese fishing boat seized while fishing illegally in Pohnpeian waters. Skippering sounded good, and he knew boats, so in June 1991 Hamilton returned to Santa Barbara and sold everything he owned, including Alamo and the Hollister Ranch parcel, in less than two weeks, because on Pohnpei, a new life of deep sea-fishing and Palikir-tuberiding awaited. Not all adhered to plan. Hamilton: “The senator who was in charge of the project was from Mokil Atoll, like 100 miles from Pohnpei, and he had a store out there. I ended up just taking all of these sacks of rice and cigarettes W W W.DEEPZINE.COM

Squeaking under.

Ikaika, feeling it.

Opposite sequence: Australian Damian Oswald, now lives on Pohnpei. Wonder why? Opposite bottom right: View from the restaurant of the Village Hotel. Above: Madolenihmw Harbor.

and everything out to the senator’s little store instead of going fishing, like I was supposed to. I was supposed to do all these fishing trips and stuff, but never did.” Yet surfing was never far. Palikir was Hamilton’s main wave, but he surfed around the island, in all seasons. And he was always alone except the few times he took a visiting marine biologist out, or when he surfed Palikir with Mark Hepner, a Kauaian diver who exported tropical fish. On April 9, 1994, Hamilton almost lost his left hand and forearm to an 8-foot-long bull shark. He was surfing at Palikir; it was a foot overhead and perfect, with nobody in sight. Around 2 p.m., he kicked out of wave, and started paddling back out. On his second stroke—BAM! “The shark came up from behind me super fast and it was like a grenade went off in my arm. It was going in too fast; it bit and then it slid down my arm. The shark yanked me off my board and then went backwards off my arm with its jaw clamped down, scraping my flesh off down to my fingertips. It took all the tendons and it broke my bones—and I was way out there by myself at Palikir. My panga was parked on the reef, so I just caught a dinky wave with my one arm and glided on in to the boat. I was bleeding like crazy. The only chance I had was to get into town as quickly as I could.” Hamilton’s boat had a paltry 9-horsepower outboard; the trip to Palikir from Kolonia took nearly 30 minutes, longer than most. He managed to start the motor, untie the anchor, and head back toward town, but immense blood loss caused Hamilton to drift in and out of consciousness. “I went blind because all the blood went out of my head, so I laid down because I couldn’t see anymore. I figured that, hell, I was going to die, but when I was lying down, my vision came back, so I just stayed down and drove with my feet.

He crashed into the Micro Glory, a docked freighter that was about to depart for Kapingamarangi. The crew looked down, grabbed him, and rushed him to Pohnpei Hospital in Kolonia, where he remained for six days, receiving rudimentary but adequate care. He flew to Honolulu for further treatment at Tripler Army Medical Center, but the hospital would not accept him. So he rang Santa Barbara’s Cottage Hospital, which “couldn’t wait” to get him in. “They treated me like I was Mick Jagger,” Hamilton said. Cottage sought to specialize in orthopedic surgery, and Hamilton was a prime guinea pig; the hospital treated “the sharkbite guy” for free, and over the next four months he had four operations. The fingers of Hamilton’s left hand no longer functioned but, permanently stuck in an outward closed formation, he could still paddle, and in February 1995 he started surfing again. Back on Pohnpei, his blood-stained surfboard was nailed to a wall in Rumors, a lively bar among the mangroves at Sokehs Harbor. In late 1995 Hamilton bought a 30-foot fiberglass boat and sailed it from Hawaii to Tahiti, where he stayed three years, doing essentially nothing. Via Yvon Chouinard, a friend of Hamilton’s, Chuck Corbett heard of him and invited him to Kiribati. The two sailed to Fanning Island in separate boats. It was the summer of 1999; Hamilton stayed for 18 months, surfing Whaler Anchorage and English Harbor. “He was 49 years old, smoking two packs a day, and surfing double-overhead waves alone,” Corbett said. “To this day, he is the most stylish surfer I have ever surfed with.” In 2001 Hamilton traded his small boat for a 40-foot sailboat and went to Hawaii. Today he collects disability checks and lives on the boat in Molokai’s Kaunakakai Harbor.

Recent Spring Swell

No Joke, Just Stoke

Opposite from top left: An unidentified surfer in the cove. / Dreamy Santa Barbara./ In the ejection seat. Bottom sequence: Coming unglued.

Story by Glenn Dubock

STRANGE winter passes without

much rain nor wave-induced pain. Muscles and tendons that would normally be stretched and stressed are coiled and begging for intense paddling action. Springtime appears without much fanfare other than incessant winds that will only keep the kite riders and windsurfers happy. It would appear we wave-riders have somehow offended the surf gods and they have decided to punish us with a dearth of monumental waves. Oh, how quickly our fortunes, and wave riding opportunities, can change! A large blob appears on the weather map in a distant sea. Like a large stone chucked into a placid pond, the outward-bound ripples began their long journey to grace our shores. Predictions are made, plans are set afoot, lives are altered and we, as surfers, have hope renewed. In the pre-dawn hour, thousands of alarm clocks interrupt the salty dreams of sleepy surfers. A mad scramble ensues; wetsuits and wax are tossed into vehicles that have been pointed at the coast. This new swell has come on the heels of a solid drenching rainstorm so the general consensus is that the best waves might be had before the clearing winds chime in with their own brand of surf music. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Is this an April Fools joke?â&#x20AC;? groans one dissatisfied surf forecast cus-

SEQUENCE: DUBOCK.COM

tomer at the sight of the windblown mess that has shown up instead of the promised perfection. Fully grown adults are reduced to child-like tantrums as they curse the fowl breeze and kick at the sand that is moving down the beach like a lowflying belt sander. But to know the twists and turns of the bending coast and the gentle massaging of the tides is to know hope for better waves ahead. And so the search begins. There is nothing more elemental or unique to the sport of surfing than the surf check. Be it two or 20 spots, it is the way our nomadic tribe, in the face of hopeless odds, seeks out the best of a bad situation. We cannot control the waves or the winds but we can improve our destiny by multiplying our destinations. As the hours pass and the miles roll under your tires, it would appear that the surf is rapidly building and the winds are turning to a more favorable direction. Coves and reefs that have sat dormant for years are starting to show vital signs of surfable life. That one spot, the secret one you have held so close to your neoprene covered chest for all these years, is now looking like a private saltwater amusement park with reeling lines of pitching peaks that were the stuff of dreams just a short time ago. You find your rhythm and renew your stoke with every turn and tube you slip through. The dreary memory of days of waveless agony is suddenly parked in a distant corner of your wave-soaked brain.

BILL TOVER

DUBOCK.COM

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Northern Santa Barbara County. DUBOCK.COM

Wedge. DUBOCK.COM

Demi. DUBOCK.COM

Dane Reynolds. TOVER Trevor Gordon. TOVER

Aaron Ernst. TOVER

Nate Winkles. BRENT LIEBERMAN

Colin Dwyer. TOVER

Unruly Jalama. DUBOCK.COM

Kairi Noro. BILL TOVER

Homegrown Surf Shop By Shawn Tracht

KENNY BACKER

From left, Cory Waltrip, Lunnden Carlson and owners Veronika and Walter Winters.

THE VISION all started in November of 2010 when Walter Winters and his wife, Veronika, were looking to start a business together. Having both grown up around the surf industry and sharing a passion for surf, they knew they wanted to create a core shop with a myriad of accessories and filled with local and emerging brands. They started looking for a location and came across a small garage-like space in the Industrial area in Ventura off of Market and Walter street. It was ideal at the moment because it was near a lot of respectable and well-known local shapers. With Walter’s 15 years of experience in construction, it took a good four months for them to build the store, and on March 19 of last year they had their grand opening. Six months later, the store was catching fire, and they felt it was time to leave their little hidden gem and expand. So they started looking for spots around mid-town in Ventura because they loved the neighborhood feel. They spent their nights after work driving around looking for a spot that was ideal and available. On a whim one night, Walter crossed the street when he thought he saw a “For Lease” sign in an old abandoned window. The window was so dirty that you could barely even see in, yet Walter somehow saw it. They knew there was a gem hidden under all that dirt, so the next thing they did was sign the lease and get back to work, putting in 14-plus hours a day and using eco friendly materials to build their new surf shop. They got it up and running in a month, and in October of 2011, planted their roots for years to come. “(We are) homegrown, rooted and eco,” said Walter. “We are rooted in the community and global awareness. We provide a positive and safe atmosphere for the youth to hang out and be part of. Along with putting on events like art shows, local bands playing at the shop, and movie nights, we want to talk surf and educate you on our products. We occasionally have local shapers come talk and advocate bringing awareness of a good cause and more.” With a clientele from groms to surfers who are “richer” in age and everything in between, Homegrown is an old school core surf shop worth stopping in, maybe every day. Homegrown Surf Shop 2485 E. Main St., Ventura Tel: (805) 642-SURF (7873) www.homegrownsurfshop.com

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE May/June 2012

BRANDS CARRIED:

FCS, Futures, Kenetik Fins, Captain Fin Co., Rainbow Fins, Pro-Lite, Famous, Creatures Of Leisure, Wave Tribe, OAM, Astrodeck, Kommunity, Dakine, Body Glove, Resist, Backnine, Mds*, Parole, LCU, Ellington, Betty B, Whimsy Grove, Seaweads Swimwear, Homegrown Surf apparel, Freedom Artists, Tavik, Rythm, Globe, Hippy Tree, OG, Apathy, Pablo Surf, Neff, Klean, Cobian, Flojos, Locals, Zig Zag Shoes, Penny, Z Flex, R.A.D. Skateboards, Gritty Skateboards, Carver Boards, Vertra, Head Hunter, Zinka, Freestyle, Sexwax, Tikiwaxx, Sticky Bumps, Big Swell, Block Surf, Filtrate, Hoyte Designs

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SPECIAL: 1 Month FREE 805.850.8801 • www.ParagonBJJ.com Ventura | Santa Barbara | San Luis Obispo

3 CENTRAL COAST LOCATIONS Carpinteria: 5003 Carpinteria Ave. , 684-8288 Montecito: 1187 Coast Village Rd. #3C, 969-1277 Ventura: 1780 S. Victoria Ave. #D, 650-6080 FREE LOCAL DELIVERY

Your Central Coast Surf Mag

www.DEEPzinE.com

TEAM RIDER: BEAU CLARKE

TEAM RIDER : MICKY CLARKE

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School’s In Session By Shawn Tracht IF YOU’RE A SURFER, then you know; you know the feeling of sliding freely down a crystal-green wall of water, all thoughts in your head gone for a moment in time. Pure adrenaline rushing to your soul, and a spark of confidence that you carry with you around town, like an unraveled enigma of enlightened understanding about the world and you’re place in it. Being a surfer isn’t almost cool. When you’re a surfer, you are just cool! Anyone can ski. Anyone can skate. However, surfing is the ultimate challenge of patience, determination, and learning a skill that is multifaceted: you must learn not only how to stand up and ride a wave, but more importantly, you must learn how waves work and how to be safe and comfortable in the ocean. And this is why surf camps up and down the Central Coast are thriving. Longing to break free, people give themselves the opportunity to surf. Students range in age from 6 to 60, boys and girls, men and women. No matter whose surf school one attends, there is one common denominator among every beginner that I’ve ever met—emphatic stoke and the understanding that their lives will never be the same. Like Nirvana, the minute an individual becomes one with the ocean, even for a split second of perfection, they are transported in a way into some sublime realm of mystic thought. In laymen’s terms, we just call this “stoke.” Surf camps are a powerful way to bring happiness to each and every person who is willing to let go and become part of Mother Nature. Each beginner is going to take their spills and face plant at least once, but I’ve never taught a lesson where those people didn’t come up smiling. At a surf camp, instructors provide in-depth knowledge of how waves break, how to begin to understand ocean currents and rip-tide safety skills, and more than anything, how to “catch a wave and be sittin’ on top of the world.” The only thing a surf lesson can’t do is give you a bushy bushy blond hairdo, but besides the hair, your heart and mind will be exhilarated, and speaking from 17 years of experience, it will make your life good and clear everything from your mind. Go surf! Check out these surf camps in your area. More photos of each camp available at www.deepzine.com.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE May/June 2012

OCEAN ADVENTURES by A-Frame Surf Shop

Santa Claus Beach, Carpinteria www.summerbeachcamp.com (805) 684-8803, Sam or Rob Holcombe

2012 DEEP SURF CAMP LISTINGS SANTA BARBARA SURF ADVENTURES by Beach House Leadbetter Beach, Santa Barbara www.santabarbarasurfadventures.com (805) 963-1281, Roger Nance Santa Barbara Surf Adventures is a week long camp for kids 8 years and older with basic swim skills and a desire to ride waves. The camp takes place at Leadbetter Beach, a long rolling wave great for the beginner or intermediate surfer. Surfboard, wetsuit and lunch at the Shoreline Cafe are all included. Fore more information visit www.santabarbarasurfadventures.com.

SURF HAPPENS SURF CAMPS Santa Claus Beach, Carpinteria www.surfhappens.com (805) 451-7568, Chris Keet The original surf camp at Santa Claus Lane, where kids head to the beach, step into a smile, and return home sandy, salty, tired and stoked. Brought to you by the organizers of the Rincon Classic, our goal is to build self-esteem while teaching the fundamentals of surfing, surfs history, and helping kids learn the rewards of self-discipline, commitment and teamwork. Elite travel camps available.

VENTURA MAKOS SURF CAMP South Jetty Ventura Harbor www.venturasurfcamp.com (805) 312-0713, Jeff Belzer We are the leaders in ocean safety, with beach lifeguards monitoring all ocean activity in addition to instructors. Camp runs five days a week from June 18 through August 17, from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Camp includes boards, wetsuits, lifeguards, beach games, and instruction. Sessions are one week long from beginners to advanced at $300 a week.

Ocean Adventures is all about fun and not just a surf camp. Stand-up paddling, kayaking, boogie boarding, skim boarding, beach volleyball, and dodgeball are the norm. Counselors are lifeguard / CPR certified and some are local pros. Snacks and hot lunch from the Padaro Beach Grill is included. Campers get a T-shirt and hat as well as other free goodies! We guarantee the most activities for the best price!

SANTA BARBARA SURF SCHOOL Local Carpinteria Area Beaches www.santabarbarasurfschool.com (805) 745-8877, Greg Lewis The camp runs Monday through Friday from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m., and includes all gear, lunch and camp T-shirt. The camp is held July 9 to 13 and, August 6 to 10. Three-hour day camps are available all year long. Enjoy a 90-minute lesson any day of the week. For reservations, call 805-745-8877.

VAN CURAZA SURF Avila, Shell, and Pismo Beachs, Morro Bay, Cayucos www.vancurazasurfschool.com (805) 543-SURF, Van Curaza Van Curaza Surf School is the premier surf school serving the Central Coast of California. Founded and run by legendary waterman Van Curaza. We teach safety in surfing, along with ocean, community and environmental awareness. From first-timers and beginners to expert surfers, physically to cognitively disabled people, we invite anyone to enjoy a surfing experience of a lifetime! Your dream to surf will be fulfilled!

WATERMAN SURF ACADEMY Good Clean Fun Cayucos Beach www.goodcleanfunusa.com (805) 995-1993, Steve Hennigh Our instructors will share their many years of experience with you in the most comprehensive school of surfing on the Central Coast. We are all about the enjoyment and pure fun of surfing. We specialize in water safety, surf etiquette, and wave riding techniques. We ensure you are a safe and capable surfer when you complete our course.

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• June 11 - August 17 • Each Session 1 Week • Located at Ledbetter Beach Santa Barbara Surf Adventures Ledbetter camp is a one week surf camp geared towards first time and beginner surfers. Soft surf boards will be provided. All instructors have CPR and First Aid Certification

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Trippin’ On Ice

STORY AND PHOTOS BY JIM BREWER

A SUP ADVENTURE IN EUROPE’S FAR NORTH

I SPEND

HOURS late at night when everyone in the house is asleep searching Google Earth for countries to surf that are a little different. Iceland has been on my radar for many years. As a rule I dislike the cold, but the allure of Iceland was too much to pass up. The crew for this trip included pro-kiteboarder and big wave-surfer Peter Trow, Silver Strand local Joe Rowan, pro-SUP racer and surfer Matt Becker, writer and former editor of Surfer Magazine Sam George and myself.

Opposite from top: Sam George cruising down the line. George has surfed all over the world and admitted that this was the most exotic place he has ever surfed. / Another surreal moment in our travels. The boys taking it all in and trying to process all the beauty of this northern fjord. Clockwise from top left: Rugged and majestic, the Icelandic horse can stand in gale force winds getting pelted by snow all day. These horses were bred in Iceland to handle the weather. / Fun little waves like this can be found all over Iceland. There are still hundreds of spots to be discovered. Peter Trow in the water getting it all on film. / The air temp was in the low teens and the water was almost freezing but no one seemed to notice. After every wave Joe Rowan would ask me to pinch him so he knew he wasn’t dreaming. / One thing we didn’t expect to find in Iceland was graffiti art. Downtown Reykjavik. / At first we thought it was a giant cumulus cloud but we quickly realized it was an erupting Volcano only miles away from us. We stood there and stared at it for hours. It wasn’t long until the international airport closed as well as all roads going east. / This beach isn’t easy to get to and requires four-wheel drive to even have a chance to find it. Sam George trying to stay warm.

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE May/June 2012

On May 18, we board Icelandair in Seattle for the flight to the nation’s capitol, Reykjavik. It’s around midnight during the flight, somewhere over Greenland, when I look out the window and watch the sun just on the horizon turning the frozen landscape below a beautiful orange. That’s as dark as it gets the rest of the trip. As we near Iceland, I see angry wind-whipped seas and pelting, freezing rain on the wing of the plane. I think we all have that “oh crap” feeling when we peer out the window knowing at some point we’re going to suit up and get in 38-degree water. Once we gather all our gear and load up two 4x4 rigs we are now on our own. We have no guides and very little knowledge of where the surf is other than some maps. It’s discovering it yourself is that makes the first time the best. As we drive away from the airport, which is located on an old NATO air base in the middle of nowhere, it’s clear this island was formed by giant volcanos and spewing lava flows. It’s like driving on the moon; snowcovered mountains spill down to sweeping ice fields. After getting a little lost, we spot a dirt road heading to the coast. We finally come out of the sand dunes and see the surf for the first time, a black sand beach and icy blue water. Perfect head-high waves and the winds are howling offshore. We surf late into the night, but it’s still light outside! We snatch a few hours of sleep, and after a quick breakfast, we’re back in the cars exploring Iceland. Over the course of the next few days we find several surf spots in the south. We also mixed in a few frigid inland rivers and glacier-fed lakes. Iceland, known as “the land of fire and ice,” didn’t disappoint. We witnessed a huge volcanic eruption only miles away from us. It closed the airport for about four days as well as the road heading east. The ash was thick, making it difficult to breath. It was our cue to head up to the fjords of northern Iceland. There’s a surf spot in northern Iceland deep in a snowy fjord that I wasn’t sure how to get to. It wasn’t on any surf map, and nobody who’s been there has given up its location. I saw footage of it on a Taylor Steele film, so I did some homework and marked it on my map. On the way there we stop in Raykjavik to talk to one of the few surfers in Iceland. We point to where we’re going on the map and he gives us a surprised look saying, “That’s a great spot that we don’t tell anybody about.” He says with a smile that we should get there fast because a swell is on the way. Icelanders are very friendly people. Even with a group of Americans heading to a sacred spot, this Icelander knew that the country’s remote and harsh conditions would keep its best breaks uncrowded. We leave Reykjavik and start the 12-hour drive cross-country through the interior of Iceland. It’s one of the most beautiful drives any of us has ever experienced—massive volcanos covered in snow, deep green valleys with waterfalls and rivers. As we approach the northern fjords and see the ocean, the first thing we all notice is the clean swell line coming in out of the cold Arctic Ocean. We have to get to the next fjord and past a long tunnel, and then we should see the spot we’re looking for. As we approach the light at the end of the tunnel we get amped knowing no matter what we’re going to look down into the deep fjord and see waves. And it’s Nirvana. Glassy, corduroy lines peeling off a cobblestone point break with light offshores and, of course, nobody in the water. The backdrop is a massive snow-covered peak. It’s going to be a once in a lifetime experience. We rush down to the bottom of the fjord where Rowan, Becker and George suit up and break the ice. I start taking photos, thinking to myself, “I’m in heaven.” Trow starts filming, and after a few hours we join the fray. For two perfect days we have the most exotic surf experience of our lives. This trip is officially deemed a success.

Opposite clockwise from top left: Hot tub and beer with friends after surfing all day in icy cold water. Doesn’t get any better than this. / Matt Becker testing the frigid waters of Northern Iceland. Becker was always the first one in the water and the last one out. / George getting the hot tip on another possible surf location from the one and only local surfer in Northern Iceland. / There are thousands of rivers in Iceland but what made this one unique was the tall trees near the shore. Trees are a rare site in Iceland. / Looking like some kind of arctic ninjas the boys explore the strange surroundings of this southern Iceland lagoon. Above: If there is a heaven on Earth we found it this day. Solid lines coming in straight out of the Arctic Sea.

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DEEP Surf Magazine Appreciation Celebration Photos by Fran Collin

EEP Surf Magazine hosted an “Appreciation Celebration” on Saturday, March 3 at the Santa Barbara Maritime Museum. Over 300 guests were treated to amazing food, good beer and insanely good music by The Kicks. Nothing but good vibes from Central Coast surfers, business owners, writers and photographers filled the inside of the Maritime Museum. DEEP Surf Magazine was honored that so many people showed up to show their support of the magazine and have a good time. The Kicks got everyone moving on the dance floor and beer was provided by Island Brewing Company, Anacapa Brewing Company, Ventura Surf Brewery, Central Coast Brewing Company and Firestone. Plenty of raffle prizes from Arbor, Beach Break Surf Shop, Betty B., Blueline Paddle Surf, Homegrown Surf Shop, Pablo’s Surf, J7 Surfboards, Oakley, Quiksilver, Revolution, Rincon Designs, Sex Wax, Sundance Beach, Surf Connection, Surf Country, Trek, Wavetribe, Wetsand Surf Shop, Island Brewing Company, Sporting Sails, Walden Surfboards and Komunity Project were given away all night. Also, Santa Barbara Surfrider Foundation and Save Naples, were on hand spreading the word and the food was provided by Wahoo’s Fish Taco, Olas Mex Grill in Camarillo and Endless Summer. The teens from Project Save our Surf were on hand to cater to everyone’s hunger needs. Special thanks to Mike Lazaro of Carpinteria Events for helping with the show! “We want to thank everyone that has supported the magazine over the past five years and to everyone who attended and had an amazing time. DEEP Surf Mag is truly ‘YOUR Central Coast Surf Magazine!,’” said director Andres Nuño.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE May/June 2012

THIS IS GOING TO TAKE FOREVER I WILL DO IT LATER... (No caption) / The Homegrown Surf Shop crew hanging out. / Peter and Christina Dugré. / Barney Berglund and Tania Wagner.

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Music & Entertainment From left: Shaun Tomson with “Splinters” director Adam Pesce. The Bones Brigade team. Stacey Peralta.

World Class Documentaries Showcase at SBIFF Story and Photos by L. Paul Mann THE 27TH ANNUAL Santa Barbara International Film Festival featured a fabulous lineup of adventure sports documentaries. As in years passed, there was an emphasis in surfing and skateboard films with local ties. Two films in particular stood out, both of which are receiving worldwide accolades. SPLINTERS

Directed by Santa Barbara filmmaker, Adam Pesce, “Splinters” is a documentary with a storyline that revolves around a small community of surfers in Papua New Guinea. The film is built around the daily lives of young surfers in the village of Vanimo who have dreams of competing in the country’s first national

surfing championship. Although the film is centered around surfing at the excellent year-round surf break that graces the shores of the remote village, “Splinters” is not really a surfing film at all, but more of a brilliant cultural documentary. The film explores the cultural clash between traditional village society in the remote countryside of

Photo: Jon Shafer

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DEEP SURF MAGAZINE May/June 2012

Papua New Guinea, and the Western wave of modern society leeching into the villagers’ daily lives. In the nine months that Pesce lived in the village and filmed his story, he was able to document the local society in a way that a team of cultural anthropologists with a university grant could not duplicate with years of research. In a Q&A after the screening at the Arlington Theatre, hosted by former world champion surfer Shaun Tomson, Pesce talked about the difficult process of making the film. He first visited the area as a United Nations intern. His passion for surfing brought him to the tiny village to enjoy the impressive surf break. But he became so fascinated by the local culture, he returned for an extended nine-month stay to film “Splinters.” The film deals with difficult local issues like domestic and clan violence, and at times filming became a dangerous and delicate challenge. But somehow the filmmaker was able to blend into the local culture and produce an honest and intriguing documentary. The film has racked up an impressive portfolio of International awards already. Visit www.splintersmovie.com for more information. BONES BRIGADE

The documentary, directed by Santa Barbara’s most famous skateboard industry entrepreneur, Stacey Peralta, takes us through the evolution of skateboarding as a professional sport.

The film focuses on the “Bones Brigade,” a team of six young teen skating sensations managed by Peralta in the 1980s. The film also tells the bigger story about the evolution of the sport. Key figures from idols to outcasts were represented. Coming from a sold premiere at the Sundance Film Festival, the skaters, who were just teenagers when they began their mercurial rise to stardom, reminisce about the emotional and physical pressures that came to bear on such young athletes. The documentary brilliantly intersperses contemporary interviews with key players in the early days of professional skateboard competition, and classic footage of the stunts and tricks that made them famous. The Bones Brigade featured Tony Hawk, Rodney Mullen, Steve Caballero, Lance Mountain, Tommy Guerrero, and Mike McGill, a pack of goofy, nerdy kids who went on to invent some of the most innovative and dramatic skating techniques. The film also interviews the more hipster rival skaters of the time and illustrates the intensity of the competition among the brash young athletes. The film eloquently illustrates the rise of the skateboard industry as a viable business and all that went into creating a technical and artistic company that became the Powell-Peralta brand name. Visit www.bonesbrigade.com for more information.

Music & Entertainment

Above: Jake Shimabukuro. Right: Shimabukuro with local students.

Jake Shimabukuro Plays at Carpinteria Plaza Theater Story and Photos by L. Paul Mann

HE non-profit Carpinteria Plaza Playhouse Theater has become the Santa Barbara areas’ newest live music venue. The small 83year-old movie house has recently been remodeled as a community playhouse and concert hall. The theater sits in the center of downtown, in the little beach town of Carpinteria. Originally named The Alcazar, the theater was built in 1928 by Henry J. Muller and run by Hollywood movie star Oliver Prickett, famous for his movie roles in the “Ma and Pa Kettle” series. Jake Shimabukuro, master of the ukelele, played the first big show of 2012 in the 200-seat theater on February 13. The maniacal ukelele master has become a well known name in the Indy pop music world over the last few years, playing relentlessly at big festivals, like Bonnaroo, to smaller venues like the Plaza Playhouse. Shimabukuro is also well known for working with nonprofit music associations and is the spokesman for the Music Is Good Medicine Organization, which led him to his gig at The Playhouse. The masterful musician embraced the sold out crowd and praised the superb acoustics of the structure. The sound at the venue benefits from a near-perfect acoustic geometry with low ceilings and solid square walls. Local rock veteran Brian Auger, master of the Hammond B3 organ, was so taken with the quality of sound in the theater that he has become the de facto volunteer sound engineer. Shimbakuro gave Auger frequent kudos during his extended concert, featuring two sets of some of his well known classic covers like, Queens “Bohemian Rhapsody,” and newer material reflecting his Hawaiian roots. Shimabukuro is most famous for his explosive renditions of rock classics, where he can be heard playing lead and rhythm sections at the same time by strumming with one hand while picking strings with the other. But his musical career began in a much more traditional mode, playing the ukelele in the traditional style of his native Hawaii with the group Pure Heart. The ukelele master had an appreciative crowd enthralled with renditions of classics like George Harrison’s “While My Guitar Gently Weeps,” creating a huge crescendo of sound with his tiny instrument. Many in the crowd drove hours to join lucky Carpinterians for the very special show. In fact Shimabukuro gave a shout out to one Japanese couple who had apparently flown in from Japan to attend the show. In keeping with the community spirit of the venue, local brewery Island Brewing Company and a local winery donated drinks to be sold during the fundraiser. After the nearly three-hour concert, a gleeful Shimabukuro

hung out in the lobby for another hour to greet fans, sign autographs and patiently pose for pictures. I had a chance to chat with him about the first time I experienced one of his concerts. It was at the 2008 Bonnaroo Music Festival in Tennessee. I was hanging out in the beer tent far in front of the massive main stage while Metallica played their ear shattering three-hour marathon set. As the veteran metal band ended their show, I noticed a little guy with a ukelele setting up his equipment on the tiny stage of the beer tent. Suddenly, Shimabukuro erupted in a frenzied flaying wall of sound and Metallica fans began flocking to the little stage to hear the Jimmy Hendrix of the ukelele play a set. Shimabukuro smiled at the memory and noted that he played louder at that show than any he could remember. He also indicated that he was ready to return to Bonnaroo anytime that they want him back. The concert at the Plaza Playhouse was a huge success and several big name acts are in the works for upcoming shows. Even buying tickets at the venue can be an unexpected pleasure, with no fees of any kind. You can purchase tickets directly at the box office or online using Paypal, The only downside to the remarkable venue is that tickets sell out fast as local residents know a good thing when they see it. For more information about the venue visit plazatheatercarpinteria.com.

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Green Room

Will The Real ECO Board Please Stand Up? By Derek Dodds

HE conventional surfboard is made from resin, foam, fiberglass, and paint. You won’t find these products in the organic section of the surfboard builder’s shop—all four elements are derived from petroleum and manufactured by the chemical industry. Thus, the main instrument of surfing, the surfboard, is an ecological travesty. In it lies the dilemma of a surfer that strives to be environmentally responsible. There is one surfboard out there, however, that rises to the top of the eco list. In fact, it is the most ecological alternative available to surfers: the Alaia. An Alaia is made from wood and requires none of the above petroleum-based materials. Even though working with wood is much different than working with foam, while shaping this eco sled the basic concepts remain the same. You need to draw the outline, cut out the basic shape, put in the rails, scoop the nose for rocker, and finish the board with multiple grades of sandpaper. Slap on some linseed oil and you’re ready to ride. Brad Tucker from Wood Surfboard Supply says people can make them easily with hardly any tools and recently proclaimed, “the quick build makes them really fun to shape.” Working with wood really changes the shaper’s perspective. Mowing through Polystyrene (the most common foam surfboard blank) is like taking a chemical bath, but shaping an Alaia is like raking the leaves in your yard. Which do you prefer? Jon Wegener, one of the modern day Alaia legends, wrote that he finds it joyful to shape wood and not use any resin or fiberglass to make

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE May/June 2012

a great-riding surfboard, and that this has made an imprint on his board making. Most Alaias are made from Paulowina wood blanks, but other lighter wood can also be used. The Paulowina wood shapes easily, as its softness allows the planer to move through it gracefully. Indigenous to China, Paulowina has been cultivated for 2,000 years. Most Paulowina species grow very fast and can reach heights of 30 to 60 feet in 15 years, growing up to 10 to 20 feet per year under ideal conditions—it’s the bamboo of trees. Once the trees are harvested they regenerate from their existing root system, earning them the name Phoenix tree. That’s cool, no? Paulowina has the ability to reclaim ecologically stressed and degenerate patches of land. The root system can penetrate complex soil environments, turning wasteland into regenerative forest, kind of like an eco angel. Paulowina is great for surfboards because it has a good weight-tostrength ratio, being lighter than hardwood but more durable than balsa. It also absorbs less water than many other types of wood and therefore does not need a resin or glass finish, which makes it super ecological—though you could glass it if you wanted. The Alaia, like anything made of wood, is 100 percent biodegradable. Originally from Hawaii, the Alaia is part of the Hawaiian surfing heritage. The original boards were between 7 andto 12 feet long, weighed up to 100 -pounds and were made from the wood Acacia Koa. Surfing was a recreational

An unknown surfer cutting on an Alaia at Rincon.

pastime in early Hawaiian culture. Everyone took part in it, chiefs and villagers alike. It developed over generations, and board builders held a special place in the hierarchy of the village. The early Hawaiian shapers used sharpened stone to carve the boards and sharkskin to sand them smooth. They oiled their boards with natural plant oils to keep them in good condition. It took those early shapers months to build a board, and that board would last its owner a lifetime. Quite frequently, the boards would be handed down to the next generation in the family or sometimes buried with the owner, thus allowing surfers to continue their passion in the afterlife. If you could take one board with you to that great swell in the sky, which would you take? It’s a complex activity to ride an Alaia. It is hard to get them on a plane and even more difficult to actually stand up on them. It takes, well, persistence. Alaia shaper Mike Yannelli put it nicely, “one foam shaper I know calls them non-functional, but if you don’t give up the reward of riding one is incredible, the glide is unreal.” Dave O’Reilly from Surfing Green in Australia wrote in to say that there is a lot of satisfaction in riding something that you have built, be it foam or wood, but he has found Alaias particularly rewarding because they are quite difficult to ride: “The greatest satis-

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faction in things comes from them being harder to do and learning how to do it—patience, and you will become a great Alaia rider.” Alaia is a Basque girl’s name, meaning joy and happiness. This is exactly how you’ll feel when you finish shaping one and then get to ride your very own eco creation. I’ d love to hear your comments and feedback. For more information on ecology, surfing and stoke please write to derek@wavetribe.com or look for me on an Alaia around Ventura County beaches.

Below: Jon Wegener, a modern-day Alaia legend.

DODDS

Green Room

God Save the Queen By Kara Petersen

hough I am an avid beachgoer and ocean lover, I am admittedly not a surfer. I can count the number of times I’ve paddled out at Rincon on one hand, and none of them were pretty. However, having grown up in Carpinteria, the legends of El Rinconada del Mar loomed large in my mind. With its mythical Chumash history and modern surfing lore, it has always been a special place to me and many, many others. Now, the Save the Waves Coalition and Carpinteria City Council woman Kathleen Reddington are working together to ensure that Rincon will continue to be a special place for many generations to come. “I’m saving the wave not only for my daughter and her grandchildren but for all generations to follow. What we can give to the future is a treasure,” Reddington said. Founded in 2001 by local Will Henry, the Save the Wave Coalition (STW) is a global non-profit working to protect coastlines around the world. The concept was born on a return trip to the island of Madeira just south of Portugal, where Henry heard about plans to build a marina directly on top of a perfect point break. Henry and the locals were dismayed as they helplessly watched bulldozers create a seawall, the backwash of which destroyed the wave. “The program was born from a desire to show the world that surf spots have an inherent value,” said Henry. “They have such enormous social and economic values.” Surfers are intuitively drawn to the precious peaks rising out of the ocean. They understand the perfect storm of conditions, from the ancient geological formations beneath the ocean to the weather patterns above it that line up in perfect harmony to form these natural treasures. In 2009, STW joined forces with National Surfing Reserves Australia and the International Surfing Association to launch World Surfing Reserves (WSR). In the past three years they have worked with local grassroots organizations and government leaders to create two Designated World Surfing Reserves: Malibu, Calif. andwEriceira, Portugal. The designation process is not quick or easy. A nomination/application gets things started then is followed by the selection process, which culminates in a formal, public dedication ceremony and is followed by ongoing monitoring and management. Enter Councilwoman Reddington, a self-proclaimed clumsy surfer, paddler and swimmer who has spent years researching the history of Rincon while enjoying the ocean playground with her 17-year-old daughter, an avid surfer. After reading about WSR in an article in The Santa Barbara Independent, she picked up the phone and called Henry. Two more approved reserves have been dedicated this year. On March 10, Kelly Slater helped Australia NSW Governor Marie Bashir dedicate Manly Beach, Australia. At the time this story goes to press another dedication is scheduled for WSR Santa Cruz on April 28. With four breaks already dedicated, WSR is setting its sights on our backyard. Both Reddington and Henry are hoping that Rincon will be dedicated in 2013, but there is much work to do to make that happen. After applying and being selected, each WSR location creates a Local Stewardship Council to implement and manage that reserve. While Rincon is in the application process, Reddington is working steadily to gain support from local surfers and

Rincon gets international notoriety as a World Surfing Reserve.

NICK PRESNIAKOV

politicians alike. Growing up a few minutes north of “The Con,” I’ve always treated the spot with a reverence reserved for special places. What I didn’t realize until speaking with Reddington was just how many threats there still are to our queen. According to a press release from the Environmental Defense Center, Carone Oil, in its proposed Carpinteria Oil and Gas project, has instigated the permitting process to drill from the existing platform Hogan. The slant drilling operation would add 25 new wells off the coast of Carpinteria. The EDC has filed concerns on the behalf of local organizations such as Carpinteria Valley Association, Get Oil Out! and the Los Padres Sierra Club. One of the primary concerns is the use of aging facilities; the safety of the 45-year-old oil platform has been called into question. The Carone proposal would increase oil production from 219 barrels a day to 3,500 barrels a day,

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King of the Beach Volleyball Exhibition

Team rider: Haley Fiske photo: Philip Gibbs

Santa Barbara, CA 24 East Mason Street • Santa Barbara, CA 93101 805.845.5606

www.bluelinepaddlesurf.com

Jupiter, FL 997 North A1A • Jupiter, FL 33477 561.744.7474