Groove Korea September 2011 by dan thwaits

American mom fights for her son’s life in Korea

Sept. 2011 | Issue 59

What good is your embassy?

U.K. ambassador tells us what he can/can’t do

Korean cooking class in English Ahn Sek-yung earned her chops at CIA in New York

A Thousand Seconds of Solitude

rolled into one fleeting instanT

BEHIND HBC FEST Lance Reegan-Diehl, Haebangcheon venues race to prepare Korea’s biggest festival for expatriates

PLUS!

a guide to partying on the Korean PENINSULA AND! The best Parties Of the Month

Contents Groove Korea | September 2011

Lance Reegan-Diehl Readies a Musical Free-For-All P. 24

Grand Hilton Seoul

Enjoy It! 2011 Oktoberfest!

JARASUM INTL. JAZZ FESTIVAL FROM THE BACK

Seoul, Korea — september 23rd & 24th The Grand Hilton Seoul proudly invites you to the 2011 Oktoberfest. The traditional German beer festival returns to the Grand Hilton Seoul this September, and it’s going to be better than ever. With “The Paulaner Oktoberfest Band” flown in directly by Lufthansa from Munich, You will experience an authentic atmosphere just like the original beer festival. Held over two days at the Grand Hilton Seoul’s Convention Center, the 2011 Oktoberfest is sure to live up to its reputation as one of the best beer festivals outside of Germany. With unlimited Paulaner beer, the Grand Hilton Seoul will serve up a selection of fabulous German food. The traditional spread includes cold

dishes such as frikadellen, Waldorf salad and a smoked fish platter, as well as hearty soups. You’ll dig into a crispy pork leg with apple bacon sauce, roasted duck with red cabbage or of course, a selection of German sausages. Guests with a sweet tooth won’t miss out either, with desserts including Black Forest Cake, homemade apple strudel and Linzer torte. As well as the music, guests will be kept entertained throughout the evening with participation party games and fun competitions. Last but not least, everyone can purchase raffle tickets which will go into a lucky draw to win Lufthansa air tickets, hotel vouchers and 2011 F1 Korea Grand Prix Tickes. Authentically German and wildly fun, the 2011 Oktoberfest is not to be missed!

The Grand Hilton Seoul 2011 Oktoberfest will kick off at 6 p.m. on September 23rd and 24th. Tickets cost 120,000 won per person (Inclusive of tax and service charge). Special discounts can be arranged for parties, but tables are limited so please book early. For more information or reservations, please call 02-2287-7456 or email: oktoberfest@mail.grandhiltonseoul.com

Duncan Galloway.......................................P. 10 Eli Degibri..................................................P. 12 Na-Hyun Kim.............................................P. 13 Eric Vloeimans...........................................P. 14 Freddy Cole................................................P. 16 Jangeun Bae..............................................P. 17

Contents Groove Korea | September 2011

front Cover photo by:

P. 16

P. 40

P. 42

10 Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s On Korea Beat 12 Dokdo in the Classroom 13 Bundang Bus Beat Down 14 Hahoe Folk Village Assault 15 Expats Fill SNU Dorm Analysis 16 Mom Fights for Son's Life What Good is Your Embassy? 18 British Ambassador Community 20 The School of Hope Arts & Culture 30 A 'Cosi' Night of Theatre 32 Korean DVD Corner 33 At the Box Office 34 Book Review 35 Gold Panda/Perfume Genius 36 Multi Seoul 39 Behind Seoul's Party Scene Groove with Seoulvibes 40 Partying on the Peninsula Destinations 42 Thousand Seconds of Solitude 48 Finding a Gem in India 50 Spectacular Beauty in Kashmir Food & Drink 52 BJ's Steaks 54 Superlative Thai in Indonesia 56 Former N.Y. Chef 58 Spanish Toast 61 Restaurant/Bar Directory 62 Listings 63 Horoscope 64 Medical/Health Info 65 Dear Michelle 66 Konglish of the Month 68 Pic of the Month 70 Itaewon Map 71 HBC/Hongdae Map

mike hurt

back Cover courtesy of:

duncan galloway

Publishers: Sean Choi and MJ Kim Editor-in-Chief: Matthew Lamers Creative Director: Dan Thwaits Senior Advisor: Chae-moon Lim

Music Editors: Summer Walker Kathy Kearns Travel & Food Editor: Josh Foreman Community Editor: Rob McGovern

Chief Consultant: Michelle Farnsworth Sales & Marketing: Jason Song Intern: Charles Joonwoo Park

To contact GROOVE Korea for advertising, submissions or general comments, please email info@groovekorea.com or call 010-7560-5552 Disclaimer: The articles are the sole property of Groove Korea. No reproduction is permitted without the express written consent of Groove Korea. The opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher. Issue Date: Vol. 7, Issue 9 - September 1, 2011 Registration Date: January 25, 2008 Registration No.: Seoul Ra 11806

TO ADVERTISE: email: ads@groovekorea.com call: 010-5348-0212 P. 56 Website: www.groovekorea.com Twitter: twitter.com/groovekorea Facebook: Groove Korea (Magazine/Group)

info@groovekorea.com submissions@groovekorea.com opinion@groovekorea.com

What’s On Monday

Sunday

September 2011 Tuesday

with

Pasta Day — Every Tues @ The Alley Italian Restaurant & Cafe in Itaewon

Stay Tuned for Dorothy’s new EBS TV show! 9:20pm on EBS. Mon & Thur. The BEST ENGLISH TV show in Korea.

Mahatma, Ishtar & More @ Sapiens 7 in Hongdae Best Sunday Brunch in Town @ Big Rock in Gangnam. 10,000W

Sliders Night @ Yalewon in Shinchon — Every Tues. 3+1 burger.

Huckleberry Finn @ DGBD in Hongdae

Seoul Dream Festival from Sept. 3-24. Fest brings together percussionist from Korea and around the world

Massage Mondays @ SKY Wellness Center in Itaewon. 1-hr full body massage and get FREE 20-minute FOOT massage.

FREE Seasoned Chips with Order of San Miguel Pitcher - Tues-Sun @ NOXA lounge 5pm-1am.

Chuseok is Hangawi @ ECHO MANSION

Bloody Sunday Quiz - 1st Sunday @ Craftworks in Noksapyeong. 6,000 won Bloody Marys! Brunch starts at 11, Quiz at 1.

Psytonic @ Double EIGHT

Pitcher Night @ Yalewon in Shinchon — Every Sun 3,000cc Cass pitcher for 15,000 won

All Day Breakfast @ Wolfhound in Itaewon. All day, every weekday.

Wing Night @ Yaletown in Shinchon. 4000w for 10wings. Every Mon.

All-you-can-eat Pasta Nite @ Craftworks in Noksapyeong every Tues. Mix and match four different noodles and sauces! 2 for 1 Fish & Chips Every Tues @ Wolfhound Pub in Itaewon

Open Mic Every Tues @ Olde Stompers in Itaewon

History of Rock Acoustic Show — Every Sun @ The Bungalow in Itaewon. 7 pm

Itaewon Global Village Center’s Korean language class registration

Sunday Brunch @ Siberia restaurant in Kyungridan. Starting at 15,000 won

Volunteer at Yongsan Senior Welfare Center with Itaewon Global Village Center - 1:30-3pm

Wing Night Every Tues @ Nashville in Itaewon. 250won/wing. 5-8pm Steak Dinner Every Tues @ Hollywood Grill in Itaewon. Only 13,500 won

19 All-you-can-eat rib eye @ Gogitjip in HBC. 15,000w. Best bbq in town.

Drunken Chicken Night @ Gecko’s in Itaewon

Volunteer at Haeshimwon Orphanage with Itaewon Global Village Center - 5-6:30pm

Participate in the Seocho Maratho with Itaewon Global Village Center. Starts at 9 am. There are 3, 5, and 10km courses.

Learn how to make kimchi at Folk Museum with Itaewon Global Village Center 1 pm

25 10 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| september 2011

1st Anniv. SKY Events @ Answer

2PM @ Jamsil Indoor Gymnasium — Sept 2-3

Dynamic @ Eden

W&Whale @ V-Hall in Hongdae — Sept 2-3

Sick of It All, The Geeks & More @ Sangsang Madang in Hongdae

DJ@War @ Answer

Shin Hye-Sung @ Kyung Hee Univ. — Sept 3-4

Jan Woo Hyuk with DJ Ditto @ mASS

Ultimate Stage by DJ Hoon @ Volume

Jimmy van M @ ELLUI

The Godfather @ mansion

Gold Panda @ Nevermind in Gwangju

Linkin Park @ Olympic Park Gymnasium

Drunken Tiger, RRM @ PLATOON KUNSTHALL

Quiz Night — Every Wed @ Craftworks in Noksapyeong. Fun for smart people! Free coloring books for dummies

Gold Panda @ Urban in Daegu

Daybreak @ Sangsang Madang in Hongdae

Men’s Nite @ Craftworks in Noksapyeong every Thurs. 1000w of our Geumgang Mtn. Dark Ale and each one of our 24 single malts. Dames welcome.

Gold Panda @ Interplay in Busan

Register for Commonwealth Chambers Networking Evening at Grand Hyatt Hotel by emailing exec@austchamkorea. com by Sept. 18. Event is Sept. 23

7 Spoken Word/Stand Up Comedy, Poetry Every Wed @ Tony’s Aussie Bar & Bistro in Itaewon 8-11pm 2 for 1 Happy Hour @ NOXA lounge in Kyeongnidan. 7pm-9pm Tues-Thurs.

2 for 1 Special @ Bar Bliss in Itaewon. Everyday 7-10pm

Movie Night - Every Sun @ NOXA lounge. 10pm-midnight

Gold Panda SEPT 7 — GWANGJU, NEVERMIND SEPT 8 — DAEGU, URBAN SEPT 9 — BUSAN, INTERPLAY SEPT 10 — SEOUL, ROLLING HALL Perfume Genius SEPT 15 — BUSAN, INTERPLAY SEPT 16 — SEOUL, PLATOON KUNSTHALLE

BBQ Night Every Tues @ Roofers in Itaewon BBQ Steak + beer = 12,000 won Guinness Day Every Tues @ Gecko’s in Itaewon

Vodka Night — Every Sat @ Yaletown in Shinchon. 45,000 won for a Vodka bottle. CD Release party for Patients @ Club FF in Hongdae Oh! My Master! @ mansion Gold Panda @ Rolling Hall in Hongdae DJ Jamie @ F"oxy in Busan

Starwarz @ eden

Noise of Life @ mansion

GAP Born to Rock — , Crying Nut, Chang Kiha & the Faces, Kingston Rudieska, YB Band, Galaxy Express, Mongoose @ AX-Korea

Perfume Genius @ Interplay in Busan

Perfume Genius @ Platoon Kunsthalle in Sinsa-dong

CD release party for GoGo Star @ V-Hall in Hongdae

Probationary Theatre presents: Cosi At White Box Theatre at Hyochang Park. Sept 16-18

23rd Kimchibilly Night — The RockTigers & More @ DGBD in Hongdae

The Bellwether Series: Register by e-mailing conferencesasia@economist.com or phone (852) 2585 3312.

Pre-Itaewon Party Every Fri@ Siberia in Kyeongnidan. Real Russian vodka shots 3,000won

Walking tour of Namsan area with Itaewon Global Village Center 10 am

Seoul Night @ Club FF, GOGOs 2, Freebird, MWG, and Spot in Hongdae. All Night Live Party 11pm-4am.

Happy Hour Every Wed @ Bar Bliss in Itaewon

Itaewon Global Village Center’s movie of the month: “Radio Star” at 6:30 p.m.

Itaewon Global Village Center’s Korean language class registration

Itaewon Global Village Center’s Korean cooking class at 11 a.m.

CNBlue @ Olympic Hall — Sept 17-18

RNB Thursday! @ Club Volume — Every Thur

Probationary Theatre presents: Cosi At White Box Theatre at Hyochang Park. Sept 23-25, 30

Entrap & Eye Candy @ mansion Ladies’ night @ Big Rock in Gangnam. FREE cocktails for the ladies

FC Seoul holds Expat's Festival at Seoul World Cup Stadium. Fee: 10,000 won; 2 p.m.

Jarasum Jazz Festival

Andong Mask Dance Festival. http://maskdance.com

Wings and Strings open stage and wing night — Every Thur @ Orange Tree in Haebangchon.

Remnants of the Fallen, Noeazy & More @ Sangsang Madang in Hongdae

Drag Bingo Night Every Fri @ Bar Bliss in Itaewon. 9pm

National Gugak Center’s first class to learn Korean traditional instruments

Lets Rock Festival — The Moonshiners, Guckkasten, YB, Dear Cloud, No Brain & More @ Hangang Park

Bucket Night Every Fri @ Beer O’clock in Sinchon. 5 shots with mix in a bucket 12,000 won

October 1-3

Mogwai @ AX-KOREA Akram Khan Company – Vertical Road @ LG Arts Center, Sept 30-Oct 1

Shooters Night Every Thur @ Gecko’s in Itaewon. Every shot 4,500 won

Visit Groove Korea on Facebook or at www.groovekorea.com for a chance to WIN FREE TICKETS!

Student Night @ Yaletown in Shinchon — Every Fri FREE BEER with your burger. Bring your Student ID

Learn now to use a smartphone at the Itaewon Global Village Center September 29th 10am to 11:30am

Good Aftermoon Launching Party @ ELLUI

Moguai @ Volume

Ladies’ Night @ Yaletown in Shinchon — Every Thur 1,000 won for selected shots for ladies.

Cookin’ Nanta Open run. www.nanta.co.kr

Stay Tuned for Dorothy’s new EBS TV show! 9:20pm on EBS. Mon & Thur. The BEST ENGLISH TV show in Korea.

College Night — Every Wed @ Club mass in Gangnam. No cover & 1 FREE drink with student ID til midnight

Poker Tournament Every Wed @ Fence in Nonhyun

Guckkasten, Beady Eye @ AX-Korea

Volunteer at Yongsan Center for the Disabled with Itaewon Global Village Center - 2-4:30pm

Oktoberfest @ Grand Hilton Seoul — Sept 23-24.

Suji’s Sky High Pastrami Sandwiches — Every Wed @ Suji’s in Itaewon/COEX/Bundang after 5pm get an extra 3.5oz. of pastrami free for a 10.6oz sandwich

10cm @ Olympic Hall — Sept 3-4

Student Night @ Yaletown in Shinchon. FREE BEER with your burger. Every Friday. Bring your Student ID

Eric Benet @ AX-Korea

Sick of it All — Presented by Open Your Eyes @ Sangsang Madang in Hongdae

Sexy Sport Jersey Party @ Volume

European Jazz Trio @ LG Arts Center

20 Wing Night Every Tues @ Beer O’clock in Sinchon. HALF price with NEW flavors.

Itaewon Global Village Center’s Korean language class pre-testing

No Cover & 1 FREE Drink Every Sun @ Club mass in Gangnam til midnight

Gwangju Design Biennale — Sept 2-Oct 23

BottomLESS Fries day — Every Wed @ Yaletown in Shinchon.

CHUSEOK HOLIDAY

Saturday

Jill Stuart New York Launch Party @ ELLUI

Friday

Thursday

Wednesday

FREE Cheese Plate with Order of Bottle of Wine - Every Fri, Sat @ NOXA lounge. 5pm-1am

30 September 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 11

Korea Beat

All stories translated by Nathan Schwartzman at www.koreabeat.com — Ed.

Man’s Bundang Bus Beat Down Sparks Outrage Following are translated comments originally written in Korean by readers at the Chosun Ilbo’s website over the assault of a 61-year-old Korean man by a 24-year-old American. On Aug. 27 at 11:10 p.m., the subjects had been travelling on a bus from Moran Station to Bundang when an altercation broke out. In a cell-phone video recording of the incident that went viral within hours of being posted on YouTube, the American is shown physically assaulting the elderly Korean man and a younger Korean woman. It has been widely reported that the American mistook the Korean word “니가” as the N-word, causing him to blow a gasket. During police questioning, the man said: “I felt offended when the man in the seat said ‘Shut up,’ and while I couldn’t understand the Korean that followed, I felt he was disparaging black people.” Police recommend to prosecutors he be indicted without detention. The incident hit a nerve with most people – Korean and expat – and reactions run the full spectrum.

Korea Takes Dokdo Battle to Classrooms Sixth grade students at Seojeong Elementary School in Goyang took a three-day trip to Dokdo and Ulleung Island in the East Sea at the end of August. Last year, 40-year-old teacher Lee Gyeong-won took the school’s Dokdo Expedition Club to the Dokdo Islets and Ulleung Island as part of a campaign to increase the students' knowledge of the Korean islets that Japan claims as its own. In early August, Japan made provocations over Dokdo, which they claim as their territory. Members of the right-wing Liberal Democratic Party tried to visit Ulleung Island, but were turned back at Gimpo Airport in Seoul. Japan’s Ministry of Education, Culture, Sports, Science and Technology infuriated Koreans by inserting claims into elementary, middle and high school curricula that Dokdo is Japanese territory. Korea has fought back with a broad educational campaign in its schools. The Ministry of Science, Education, and

The Korean education ministry has developed a textbook called “Getting to Know Dokdo” (독도바 로알기) for all sixth grade students nationwide. Technology (교육과학기술부) is supporting 62 elementary, middle, and high schools nationwide as so-called "Dokdo Base Schools". “Starting in the sixth grade, students begin learning about our land, sea, and air sovereignty, so Dokdo is a place where they cannot not learn about.” The Korean education ministry has developed a textbook called “Getting to Know Dokdo” (독도바로알기) for all sixth grade students nationwide. It will be in classrooms across Korea in September. The textbook has over 60 pages of information about Dokdo’s natural environment and geography. The Ministry plans to expand the number of Dokdo Base Schools. Another five over-

seas Korean schools will be added this month. These schools will have clubs called Protecting Dokdo Group and Loving Dokdo Group. The online educational program Dokdo Cyberclassroom is also available for teachers. The program provides teachers with resources to inform their students on the history of Dokdo and Japanese incursions into Korean territory. Over 2,100 teachers have utilized the website. The Ministry also has the nationwide touring program “Dokdo Exhibition” which has been attended by 95,000 ordinary citizens. The education ministry has been working to rid Korean textbooks of errors on the subject. In May, it announced it would correct inaccuracies regarding Dokdo in middle and high school textbooks. Four tests were found to contain erroneous facts regarding Dokdo’s longitude, latitude, surface area and its unofficial designation.

Illegal Gangnam Casino, Brothel Busted by Police The Seoul Metropolitan Police Agency arrested a 40-year-old Korean woman on charges of operating a brothel out of an illegal casino. Arrested without detention were 15 other people including a 40-year-old man. From December 2009 through April last year, the group ran the casino out of an expensive apartment in Gangnam. Police estimate the casino took bets worth 10 billion won ($9.4 million) and about 1 billion won in profit. Investigators determined that eight of the 15 had been members of two gangs with connections to Macao. Their role was to bring in high-rollers, lend them money and earn commissions.

12 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| september 2011

Police described one incident involving the 40-year-old man: He and another man assaulted one of the debtors at a golf course and set fire to his car over an unpaid debt worth 150 million won. The group had other tactics to collect unpaid loans. In some cases, they would hire a notary public and use the courts to place liens on property as if they were normal debts, and the creditors would receive a cut, police said. Police further said: “When they received the gambling money in Macao, they apparently used a secret bank account. We’re looking into it.”

Chosun Ilbo reader reactions: Jong-hwan (15 likes, 2 dislikes)

Seriously. Don’t try to justify yourself. Don’t try to guess. You call yourself an English teacher but you can’t tell the difference between “니가” and the N-word? Do you really think an old man would know English so well and speak in English? Korean police laugh at your statement, and protect the rights of the criminal. We have to take firm action to prevent something like this from happening again. Dae-jae

Comment deleted for using vulgar or abusive language. Gyeong-geun

If you watch the video, he is clearly guilty of assault and can be arrested right away, but because of this unexplainable misunderstanding, he wasn’t. That’s funny. In America, this is a case where, based on this circumstances, you might wind up being shot. Cheol-hyeon

We have to look at the circumstance on both sides. It could have been that the victim or another passenger said the N-word accidentally and made him feel racially humiliated. Isn’t this a country where you can commit a crime over a slight and still be treated well? Dong-yeol

Comment deleted for using vulgar or abusive language. Chang-hyeon

Even if you are angry, you have to keep yourself under control. Otherwise you can ruin your life with violence.

Indonesian Tourist Dies at Public Bath A 68-year-old Indonesian man was found dead at a Daegu public bath house on Aug. 29. He was found in the Naengcheon-ri facility by a 30-year-old employee surnamed Yun, who then notified police. “The man had been in the water for a long time and another customer thought it was strange, so I went in and found that he had died,” Yun said. Police said they conducted their investigation under the assumption that the elderly man, a tourist who had arrived on Aug. 27, died of a heart attack.

September 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 13

Korea Beat

www.koreabeat.com

Mongolian Tries to Kill Colleague over Banmal

Tourist Assaulted at Hahoe Folk Village A foreign woman in her 30s was allegedly sexually assaulted at Andong’s Hahoe Folk Village, and the tourist site’s administrators are being criticized for keeping quiet about similar incidents, reported Korean media. Hahoe Folk Village is a United Nations World Heritage Site. According to police, prosecutors, and the Folk Village itself, the 65-yearold owner of a small inn within the Folk Village is believed to have sexually assaulted a

Taiwanese woman in her 30s. Prosecutors have applied for an arrest warrant. The elderly man is accused of pushing down the young Taiwanese woman and groping her chest inside his inn, before she escaped. The woman wrote about the incident in detail on her blog and Taiwanese netizens came to her support, leading the Taiwanese mission in Korea to request a harsh punishment from Korean authorities.

The Dangjin Police Station in Chungcheongnam-do announced on Aug. 22 that it had arrested a 34-year-old Mongolian man on suspicion that he attempted to murder his Chinese co-worker. Police said they are conducting an investigation to determine if the case will be referred to a prosecutor. The Mongolian man is accused of injuring his 19-year-old Chinese co-worker with a weapon at approximately 4:30 p.m. on Aug. 21 in Sunseong-dong. Investigators found that the alleged attacker arrived in Korea in 2005 and is an illegal alien. He committed the crime one week after taking the job. “I became really angry after the Chinese man, who is extremely young, sometimes spoke to me in banmal,” said the Mongolian man. Banmal is informal Korean often used amongst friends. An official with the company said that, “The Chinese man could not speak Korean well.”

Expats Fill SNU Dorm, Displacing Koreans With large numbers of foreign study-abroad students entering Seoul National University dormitories this summer, students from Korea’s provinces have been complaining of a lack of on-campus accommodation. The Seoul National University dormitory Gwanaksa had a waiting list of 26 undergraduate and 36 graduate students when the second semester began. Early this summer, over 1,500 Korean students applied to enter the dormitory for the second semester, and some were rejected due to lack of space. All 357 foreign students were able to secure rooms. Gwanaksa announced: “The university administration has ordered that foreign students be given preference in access to dormitories … the 357 foreigners who received preference include students with government scholarships and transfer students.” One senior majoring in economics who asked to only go by Kim, said she was number 70 on the waiting list. “In the past you were safe if you had a number no higher than 80… I waited two months to get into the dorms, so why should foreign students get such preference?” asked the 24-year-old. Kang, a senior from Jeju Island majoring in psychology, also questioned the dormitory’s policies. The 23-year-old asked, “Students from the provinces have family circumstances that are not as good as those of foreign students, so shouldn’t we get preferences?” An official at Gwanaksa said its hands were tied. “The number of foreign study-abroad students needing dormitory housing has increased since last year, so there is nothing that can be done.”

Drunk English Hagwon Owner Assaults Waitress A hagwon owner in Incheon, 70 km west of Seoul, has been arrested after sexually assaulting a waitress during a dispute about the bill. The Gyeyang Police Station in Incheon is investigating after arresting and questioning the 55-year-old hagwon owner in August. The waitress accuses the man of groping her as she was calculating the bill. According to the police, the man committed the crime against the 55-year-old waitress at a restaurant in Gyesang-dong at approximately 10:40 p.m. After groping her, she also accuses him of striking out at her, but only making contact with her wrists. Police investigators determined the English hagwon owner was severely intoxicated. 14 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| september 2011

September 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 15

Analysis Time passes slowly when you’re taking care of your comatose son in a strange country. So it was a long 3 months until June 6 when Putman was sitting on Wes’s hospital bed reading aloud to him some letters from his friends and family back in Lawrenceburg.

A Mom Fights for her Son’s Life By Michelle Farnsworth / Illustration by Matt Ferguson (inkonpaper.org.uk)

How many come to Korea to teach English for a fun-filled, carefree year of adventure? For a way to make some extra cash and see the world before we are expected to settle down and focus on building a career back in the real world? How many of us can remember our mom waving and sniffling in the doorway as we set off to the airport? We laughed at her overdramatic tears, “I’ll be back in a year mom. Don’t cry. What’s the worst that could happen?” 16 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| august september 20112011

Well, Monitta Putman might be able to shed some light on the answer to that question. Putman is a southern belle who had never strayed very far from her hometown of Lawrenceburg, Tennessee where she raised her two sons: Wes and Casey. But one Friday afternoon in March, Putman’s world was flipped upside-down. Her 27-year-old son Wes was hit by a speeding taxi as he crossed the street outside his apartment in Seocho, Seoul. A friend called a friend who called a friend who contacted Wes’s brother Casey. Casey called Putman. Wes had an emergency brain surgery and was in a coma. Just like that, life was never going to be the same. Putman packed her bags, but it’s a long way from Lawrenceburg, Tennessee to Seoul. Especially when you’ve never been on a plane and you don’t have a passport. But Putman was determined to get to her child. She was in Chicago at an emergency passport center by 4 p.m. She had her passport two hours later, but there were no flights to Seoul until Sunday. Putman remembers praying, but not much else from that very long weekend. Yes, the Wes she saw when she walked into Seoul Saint Mary’s Catholic Hospital was the same Wes she’d waved farewell to when he had left for his adventure in Korea 7 months before. Only his right eye was swollen shut, and part of his skull had been removed, and he couldn’t wake up, so he couldn’t know that his mom had finally come to see him in Korea like he’d been wanting. Time passes slowly when you’re taking care of your comatose son in a strange country. So it was a long 3 months until June 6 when Putman was sitting on Wes’s hospital bed reading aloud to him some letters from his friends and family back in Lawrenceburg. Suddenly she looked at Wes and he was looking back at her, “Wes, are you in there?” she asked, daring to hope. Searching, begging, she asked again, “Wes, honey, are you in there?”

Slowly, Wes gave her the thumbs up. Putman screamed. “I ran all over that hospital telling every Korean in sight and just trying to find a doctor to confirm what I had just seen,” she remembers with giddy gratitude. “I don’t know what to call that,” Putman said tearing up, “Since I gave birth to him, that was the best thing. I don’t know what to call that.” Words certainly do seem to come up short. Wes now goes to rehab twice a day for an hour and a half each time. He has lost his right eye. He has a bad case of spasticity causing his muscles to seize up. His right side is limp, but he can count with the fingers on his left hand and can almost snap now too. He can move his toes and his left leg. He can still read, but he can’t feed himself or talk and there is a delay between when his brain tells his left hand to do something and when it actually does it. “But he has made all these little steps,” Putman boasts, “He’s working so hard.” The doctors are torn. One says Wes could have a slow but full recovery. Another says he’ll never walk again. Putman doesn’t have any question in her mind that Wes is going to make it through this. “Wesley,” she tells him, “I’m the one who taught you to walk. I’ll do it again.” Putman isn’t the only one showering Wes with hope and positivity. One look at the “Wes Putman Support Group” Facebook page tells you what kind of person Wes is. The love, the emotion, the optimism, the hope, the tenderness on that page is palpable. To say the least it is extremely touching; it’s the kind of outpouring of support we could only dream would envelope us if we were in Wes’s shoes. Putman believes that he needs to be around these people who love him so passionately. She wants to take him home. But just the cost of transporting him home in his current condition could be up to $130,000.

“The doctors and physical therapists here have been fantastic, but I just want to take my child and jump on the fastest plane to America” Putman said. Wes has Korean National Health Insurance, but surprisingly Putman found that that it doesn’t cover accidents. So, while the taxi company will cover the majority of the hospital bills in Korea, it’s still a struggle financially on top of everything else. A few months ago, they had a fundraiser back in Lawrenceburg and raised $50,000, but Putman isn’t working and the bills are piling up. And they’re not even home yet. While some family has come to visit, Putman has been here since the beginning, visiting Wes every day. Of course, she never wanted to leave her comfortable home and her dog Bo back in Lawrenceburg. She never wanted to give up her nursing career. She never even wanted to get on a plane. But she has accepted the change. “It’s your child lying in that bed. You find a way to survive. This is my life now.” While she desperately wants to get Wes home, it is not because she wants to leave Korea. She surprised herself when she realized how much she actually likes it here. “Everyone in Korea has been so great. My lawyer took me around in her car apartment hunting – who does that? The International Lutheran Church helped me pay my rent. And some of Wes’s friends had a rock concert and raised 900,000 won for him.” But there are some places Putnam won’t explore. “Lord, no I ain’t going up no place called Hooker’s Hill!” she laughs. Still, she and Wes appreciate the help, the prayers, and the kindness of strangers. You can help Wes go home by making a donation to Woori Bank account number 1002-644312203 (Monitta Putman). For more information, go to the “Wes Putman Support Group” Facebook page.

September august 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 17

What Good is Your Embassy? The U.K.

By British Ambassador Martin Uden

I’d like to think that everything the British Embassy does in some way assists British citizens – they’re the ones who pay our wages after all. But for our fellow Brits who live here, our assistance is often more direct. Sometimes they have simple queries about assistance in Korea – we regularly provide details of local English-speaking lawyers, doctors and interpreters. Other times, such as for victims of crime or assault, supporting people in hospital, helping families cope with bereavement, visiting Britons in prison, or helping locate missing persons, the level of support we provide is more involved. All cases are dealt with confidentially – our consular officers are here to support not to judge. Britons also come to see us when they want to get married in Korea, need to convert their U.K. driver’s licences or to carry out certain notarial acts. We administer Citizenship Ceremonies for people becoming British citizens. Because our consular operations aren’t tax subsidised by the government, we charge for the services we provide. These charges reflect the cost of providing the service overseas and are charged at the same Pounds Sterling rate globally. We do not make a profit. Details of our consular services can be found at www.UKinRoK.fco.gov.uk – follow the link to “Help for British nationals.” You can also join us on Facebook at www.facebook.com/ukinrok and on Twitter with @ UKinKorea.

What can’t the Embassy do for British nationals? Perhaps the biggest misconception is that the Embassy can get you out of prison – we can’t. Nor can we secure you better treatment than that afforded to Korean nationals

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in prison or hospital. Similarly, we can’t pay for anything on your behalf – like your hospital bills or flights home. We’re not qualified to provide legal advice; become involved in legal, contractual or property disputes; to provide advice on getting a Korean or a British visa (nor answer questions concerning either of these) or to facilitate your entry into Korea. As with all other British Embassies in this part of the world, the British Embassy in Seoul no longer issues full 10-year British passports. Britons wishing to renew or apply for a new passport should check our website to find out how. Since it can take up to six weeks for straightforward applications to be processed, please make sure you leave plenty of time to receive your new passport before travelling. We can issue Emergency Travel Documents to those who need to travel urgently.

Recommendations for all new arrivals I recommend all new British arrivals to Korea do their homework on the country – preferably before or soon after arriving. Korea is a fantastic place to live, study or work, but like anywhere it’s not without its hazards. Read our travel advice at www.fco. gov.uk/travel and register with the Embassy at www.fco.gov.uk/locate. Make sure you are adequately insured for your travel both in and out of Korea. Get to

Photo Courtesy of the U.K. Embassy

know the local laws and customs. Make copies of important travel documents and/or store them online using a secure data storage site. Leave emergency contact details with family in the U.K. The Embassy responds to any crisis affecting the British community, but we expect you to take sensible precautions, to familiarize yourself with your local area and take time to think about what you would do if things went wrong. Contingency guidance is available on our website. Having said that, most visits to Korea are pleasant and trouble free. For the many English teachers, Korea is among the best destinations in the world to be a TEFL teacher. Make sure you understand what you’re getting into though. Always read contracts carefully. Pay particular attention to break clauses, health and acci-

dent insurance arrangements (including any exclusions) as well as flight/accommodation provisions. Don’t be afraid to seek feedback or references from previous teachers at your school. Leave ample time to get your documents in order for your visa and check the requirements rigorously. (Don’t risk another part-time job if your visa doesn’t permit it.) Whatever you do, don’t be tempted to become involved with taking or trafficking drugs, or to get into fights – the penalties are severe and prison conditions unpleasant. You will also more than likely lose your job and be deported from the country at the end of your sentence. Always remember that you are under Korean law and may face stricter treatment under the law for transgressions, which might have gone unpunished in the U.K.

For the many English teachers, Korea is among the best destinations in the world to be a TEFL teacher. Make sure you understand what you’re getting into though. Always read contracts carefully. Pay particular attention to break clauses, health and accident insurance arrangements (including any exclusions) as well as flight/accommodation provisions. September august 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 19

Community Sept. 2011

The School of Hope (Part I)

By Norman van der Poll | photos by ernst van der poll

ABUL ISLAND, Malaysia - On Mabul Island, Malaysia, the word â&#x20AC;&#x153;hopeâ&#x20AC;? is more than it implies; it is a state of mind where a battle against poverty and illiteracy is being challenged by a group of intrepid visionaries from all over the world. And Stanley Sie, founder of the School of Hope, leads by example. 20 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| september 2011

September 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 21

vising simple lesson plans for English, mathematics, sports and games, Korean traditional games, activities and environmental education. Sophomores from the Department of Social Sciences taking an elective English class presented by myself were introduced to the island community and once a sense of awareness was created, there was no hesitation from the students: “We want to help. Children are children, no matter where they are and they deserve the right to be educated,” said Jun Mun-hyeong. It’s a sentiment echoed by classmate Lee Bo-ram, both students in the elective English class. This became the motivation to submit work of the highest standard. Lesson plans were prepared, revised and finally submitted as presentations by the class. Students involved in the project use English extensively, including using technology, particularly the Internet and even Facebook, where they have set up their own group, Electrifying English. Connections between the group and the School of Hope have been made through this group and this seems to highlight that there are plenty of ways English learning can not only encourage Korean students to communicate with English speakers from all walks of life and from all over the world, exchanging culture and ideas; but at the same time helping people who need it. On the other side of Jeonju, Tori Elliott led students from Geun Young Girls’ High School in a drive to donate English books, art materials, pens, pencils and clothing to the School of Hope. The successful drive resulted in eight crates of practical items being donated by the girls and their English teachers, which are now in the hands of Mabul’s students. Parties of teachers and students interested in visiting the island to do much needed volunteer work can contact Ernst van der Poll at the Pavilion Dive Centre for more information regarding Edutourism on Mabul. Outside of teachers and students, scuba divers are flocking to this scuba divers’ paradise. Companies like www.soscuba.com are also supporting the project with their Mabul Children Welfare Initiative, whereby all profits from Nov. 26 to Dec. 1 will be donated to Borneo Child Aid. Just remember to bring a pencil or paintbrush.

Community Sept. 2011

For more information on Borneo Child Aid, visit their website www.borneochildaid.org.

The Jeonju National University of Education has invested time and effort, too, devising simple lesson plans for English, mathematics, sports and games, Korean traditional games, activities and environmental education. Mabul is a small island off the southeastern coast of Sabah, Malaysia. Located 15 km from Sipadan, this 20-hectare island surfaces 5-10 meters above sea level and consists mostly of flat ground. Surrounding it are sandy beaches and it is perched on the northwest corner of a larger 2 square kilometer reef. Thousands of children live in plantations and other remote areas often far from schools. These children, in the state of Sabah on the Island of Borneo, including Mabul, are without education because of how far they are from established educational centers. They often live in poverty and lack any legal status. Borneo Child Aid, a Malaysian nonprofit social NGO, is providing education for more than 9,000 underprivi-

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leged children in the state of Sabah. Without education, many of these children would be exposed to sweat shops as child laborers or confined to life as street children. “Edutourism” was introduced to Mabul by Ernst van der Poll, a PADI course director at the Pavilion Dive Centre in Dubai. Van der Poll is also involved in similar projects in his native South Africa. To help the children of this island, he asked groups of divers from all over the globe to donate their time and some materials to these children. They obliged. Now, they spend time teaching Mabul’s children as part of their dive tour. In this way, Mabul is visited annually by scores of volunteers who make a difference. The Jeonju National University of Education has invested time and effort, too, de-

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Arts & Culture Sept. 2011

t was in early 2006, about March or so, when Jim Gaynor of the band Grooble and Lance Reegan-Diehl noticed a precipitous increase in the number of people playing music, forming bands and performing at open mics. There were dozens, at least, of expat musicians playing anywhere they could and in front of just about anyone. But it was a fragmented, unorganized scene.

What was needed was a â&#x20AC;&#x153;day of music.â&#x20AC;?

Lance Reegan-Diehl Readies a Musical Free-For-All By Summer Walker

lrd photo by mike hurt hbc photos by ronny kick

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Arts & Culture Sept. 2011

The first Haebangcheon Festival was Gaynor and Reegan-Diehl’s solution. Though groundbreaking at the time, that first festival in Haebangcheon – officially called HBC Fest – pales in comparison to HBC Fests of today. In July 2006 there were 23 acts at three venues, Phillies, Orange Tree, and Ssen bar; last March there were 63 acts at 13 venues; and this October, you can expect even more. Providing a large audience and bigger platform to local expat talent, it was the beginning of big things to come. “Now HBC is what I consider to be the largest free music fest in Korea,” said dreamer-of-the-dream Reegan-Diehl. Oct. 8 will witness the return of the biannual celebration of all things indie. Dozens of performers will pick up their guitars and bellow their hearts out while thousands of music fans will descend on this not-so-quiet community for entertainment and carousing (and to inadvertently frighten some locals). Noise, drunkenness and debauchery. HBC Fest has come a long way since 2006. For a while, standing outside Phillies put one in danger of a water balloon attack from an angry rooftop ajumma. The May 2010 HBC Fest saw 1,400 noise complaints made to authorities. But times have changed and local business owners and residents have not only come to live with HBC Fest – they’ve embraced it. It’s a boon for the local economy. Businesses that used to yell the crowds off their doorstep now invite them in. And entrepreneurs have set up shop selling food, drink and party gear. They now enjoy the extra income the crowds provide.

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It has the frenzied atmosphere of a World Cup, but with foreigners."

With reputation comes people — lots of people. Every fest has seen an increase in attendance, and this October is certain to be the biggest. It’s a good idea for audience members to get to a venue early if there is a specific act to catch. Phillies’ basement and VFW can be a claustrophobe's nightmare. Meeting up with a friend across the street at Le Vert might take some creative maneuvering. But that doesn’t get everybody down. “The crowd is the best part — and the hardest part to deal with,” said Chris Backe, a festival enthusiast. “The crowd is amazing,” said A.J. Guillette, a performer. “It has the frenzied atmosphere of a World Cup, but with foreigners. HBC Fest strengthens the foreign-Korean live music community, and has the power to attract and make fans out of people that wouldn't normally go out to see these bands perform. Some of my best memories of Seoul were from playing and just hanging out at HBC Fest.” The festival became more popular than anyone could possibly have guessed. People wanted more. Musicians were excited to play. Venues looked forward to padding their coffers. And music fans wanted another reason to drink. For a while, in 2006 and 2007, organizers tried planning it four times a year to mark all four seasons. However, arranging something of this magnitude was taxing. Acts were harder to come by and the crowds weren’t coming out in force. In the end, Reegan-Diehl and the venues decided it seemed more natural to stick to spring and autumn-themed events. “A lot of people come, making HBC Fest

much better to play at than just attend — you'll play to an enthusiastic full house and you’ll usually have room to stand on stage without being jostled,” said Zach Bardon, a performer. “If you’re the drummer, you even get a reserved seat. Otherwise, get ready for a day of excellent local music accompanied by a chorus of ‘excuse mes’ as people swim through the bodies.” Most people are respectful, but there are trouble makers. And it certainly doesn’t help the Korean perception of expats that every year yields a fresh crop of idiots. Although the vast majority of attendees are there for music and fun, every now and then someone will fall over blind drunk, or someone will start a fight after pissing on someone else’s shoe. Last year, a well-known local asshole thought it would be fun to jump onto delivery trucks and go “surfing.” He might have deserved that bump on his head, but it’s a shame he wasn’t arrested. Those taking bets on which venue will be shut down first on account of noise complaints will be disappointed. “The meetings with police have been to talk about what is going on with this fest. The main concern is traffic and crowd control. They can do it. They just need notice, and I have been sending out e-mails about the dates and stages. I really urge people to try and get inside a venue for the music or the food. Try not to hang out on the street ... That is what this is, a music festival,” said Reegan-Diehl. Over the years, HBC Fest has featured an array of performances. “Watermelon Man. He actually got on national television in his native Australia doing this performance,” said Reegan-Diehl. “Saint John The Gambler used to keep the crowd dancing. The tribute acts have always gotten a great re-

“Watermelon Man. He actually got on national television in his native Australia doing this performance.” sponse. The few times we have run theater the turnout has been awesome. Quite a few solo artists have put on quite a rocking evening show. Mia Zepeda, Richard Babin, John Valentine, John Redmond. Band venues always have a great turnout, they all put on great shows.” Don’t expect run-of-the-mill mainstream crap. That doesn’t fly at HBC Fest, where oddities have long been a staple. “The Kimchi Cowboys used to howl at the moon, scream, make noise and dress in drag,” said Reegan-Diehl. “What a scene, everyone could not believe this. They have tamed down over the years. Last May in Phillies another band performed to a crowd of five. This one person took off a piece of clothing during every song. He then stood there in undies and socks gyrating like Elvis and the owners begged for a short set.” A key word is free. It’s true that musicians

volunteer their time — as do venue hosts and collaborators such as Conor O’Rielly — but there is never a problem filling performance slots. HBC veteran John Redmond compared the experience to a combination of busking on subways in Europe and playing an outdoor festival on an island beach. An odd description, but he’s not far off. Expat residents in these parts have long considered themselves a bit bohemian, and particularly artistic. Add those vibes to the deeply urban scene, and you have HBC Fest. It’s not hard to get on the roster. ReeganDiehl has long had a first-come, first-serve policy when it comes to bookings. Musicians can sign up through the Facebook or Yahoo groups, or pop into DEELEEBOB music studio and ask in person. “Any act is welcome, space willing. All gear is provided; you just need your personal instrument. DJs need

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Arts & Culture Sept. 2011

Performers (as of Aug. 27)

“Even though the bands and drinking make it sound like any other weekend, there's something about it that's just different.” your own connector cables, just like a guitar player would. Solo venues have sound systems, mixers and mics. Band venues have a drumset, two guitar amps, a bass amp, monitor, and sound system,” he said. October sets are filling up, and some Korean bands are on board. Harry Big Button and Minha have promised to come. Grooble, which includes HBC Fest co-founder Jim Gaynor, is returning from Japan for a last show before Gaynor moves to Australia. Crowds can always count on seeing John Sant’ Agnella, Yvon Malenfant and The Kimchi Cowboys – who have made it to every fest. Anyone walking into the ‘hood will know immediately where they can catch some music: Orange Tree, Pita Time, V.F.W., Phillies, Le Vert, Casablanca and The Local. Most HBC businesses now support the fest in some way, including t-shirt purchases and direct advertising support. Some include Ko Ba Woo, Pinoy Mart, Jacoby’s and Indigo. “The support of this event has always been excellent,” said Reegan-Diehl. “I am happy to see so many performers of different walks of life coming together to play music, listen to each other, and generally help keep the local scene going. The local scene might not be as vibrant without something like the HBC festivals providing a larger audience and stage to players that may not get such a chance to play at any other festival in Korea.” The Fest is an opportunity to have fun and discover talent. Singer/songwriters, covers, rock bands, folk acts, a performance artist or two — it really pays to mix up the experience and try to see as much as you can. “I know we have few pro bands or artists play this fest, but it is this unique mix that makes it interesting. I try to see everyone perform at least one or two songs. I urge all performers to go around and see what

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everyone else is up to. This fest is so much about this local community and the people living here,” said Reegan-Diehl. Justin Graff is one of the performers who said he appreciates what the festival provides. "As if rocking a great set to an appreciative audience isn’t already amazing, I absolutely loved that after I played I could walk around to numerous venues participating in the festival and see tons of other great artists perform their music." It is doubtful that either Reagan-Diehl or Gaynor were aware of the impact that the HBC festivals would have on the community. Before that first festival in July 2006, Haebangcheon wasn’t well-known– even to cabbies. Dozens of bars, restaurants and cafes have opened up over the last few years. Indeed, Haebangcheon is the new Itaewon. That was unthinkable six years ago. Craigslist is full of requests for apartments in the area. Perhaps these changes would have happened organically, but there is no doubt that the festival helped put Haebangcheon on the map for a lot of people. “Even though the bands and drinking make it sound like any other weekend, there's something about it that's just different,” said Jeff Moses of the popular band Whatever That Means. The 2011 fall Haebangcheon Festival will be held on Oct. 8. BBQs and venues open at noon. Music will be pumping from 2 p.m. to 2 a.m. Samick guitars will be raffled away throughout the festival. Raffle tickets can be purchased for 2,000 won and you must be present/conscious to win. To get to Haebangcheon, leave Exit 2 from Noksapyeong station. Walk straight and turn left at the kimchi pots. Walk straight and follow the noise. For more information, go to www.hbcfest.com

• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

GROOBLE Harry Big Button Lance Reegan-Diehl Band The 2 Guitars John Valentine w/Guests Johnny “Red” Yvon Malenfant The International Goat Breeders Kimchi Cowboys Seoul Rhythm Pigs Backus Chris Wright Kachisan Sejong Boys Angry Bear Hard Tack and Gruel Minha EARL Blue Biscuit Blues Band Seth Martin CRUX CJ Infinite Jennifer Waescher Mia Zepeda Tom Gregory Little Johnny B Richard Babin Super Sinister Slaughterhouse-Jive Vanessa Barbee D.A. Green Burl Sackman & The Strategic Sideburns Sticky Fingers Sammy Clay Ben Akers Steve David Chanters Alley Simon and Company. Jusitn Patrick SOLO. The Fastwalkers Cael Anton Giliflower The Total Assholes Magna Fall Daniel Vailllancourt

Arts & Culture Sept. 2011

A 'Cosi' Night of Theatre

By Wendy Taylor & Kevin Lambert Photos by Michele Farley

yromania, free love, war—and if that’s not enough, there’s an Italian opera by Mozart at an insane asylum. This is "Cosi": the newest production at the White Box Theatre.

rest are American, English, and Scottish. What to do?Ignore the fact, considering the difficulties of imitating the Australian accent? This might be the easiest, most logical route, but it is not one taken by the dynamic duo of Liam Mitchinson and Desiree Munro: native Australians, creators of Probationary Theatre and owners of the White Box Theatre. Liam directs and Desiree pulls double duty as an actor and dialog coach. “Without a doubt the nuances of the Australian accent make it one of the hardest ones to master. As an Australian, I have been exposed to American and British accents my entire life, so it's much easier for me to affect these accents than it is for my poor American actors to affect mine. For some, their only exposure to an Aussie voice has been "Crocodile Dundee,” (1986) says Liam. There was some trepidation in using the accent, but Liam had confidence in his actors. He made the decision to have an international cast and a mix of accents. Of the decision Liam states, “Australia, even in the 1970s, was an extremely multicultural society and I don't think it's out of place to have so many different accents on stage.” Studying the accents has affected actors in different ways. It’s been beneficial for Quinn Olbrich (personally), who plays Lewis, the male lead. “I've been practicing my Aussie accents when I go out to clubs in Hongdae. I know I must be doing something right because I overheard an American complain, 'Why is it the Aussie guys get all the girls? It must be the accent.'" As for Miles Meili, a professional voice actor playing Henry, "It's an accent with a lot of subtlety and I'm enjoying the challenge. My task is further complicated because my character stutters." Finding costumes, circa the 1970s, was another challenge. The cast had to find vintage clothes, mostly from second hand stores, which was not that easy considering this is Seoul. They might need to leave room in the budget for extra deodorant according to Desiree. “I've never seen so much polyester in my life. We're going to need a lot of deodorant backstage ‘cause those stage lights are hot!” Some cast members might get new wardrobe additions. “I don't know what everyone is complaining about. I want to keep my paisley costume once the show's over and wear it out!” says Achilles Lakes who plays Roy. Others don’t have it so easy, like Daniel White who plays Doug. “I definitely drew the short straw when it comes to costumes. I am wearing a lemon-yellow polyester knit with a giant collar. The cast all refer to it as the lemon-yellow nipple shirt.” Although it is a comedy the themes in "Cosi" deal with addiction and the importance of creativity in a time of war and mental illness. The play was also a made into a film with Toni Colette, but why see a movie when you can see the play? If you don't read the program first you can try and figure out which of the actors are actually from Australia. "Cosi" will be playing at the White Box Theatre at Hyochang Park (Line 6, Exit 2) on Sept. 16th - 18th, 23rd - 25th and the 30th. Tickets are 15,000 won ($13.90) at the door, but reservations are encouraged. Directions and show times can be found at: www.probationarytheatre.com

Consider it a break from the now, Australia, 1971, to be exact. A time before iPhones, iPads, LOL and instant everything. Being on line means waiting at the bank. The Vietnam War is raging. "Cosi," as in "Cosi Fan Tutte,” the opera written by Mozart, is a story about love and fidelity and a group of mental patients trying to put on an opera. Some challenges ensue, as one might expect. One of the biggest challenges in the real production of the play is having a large international cast, who are supposed to be Australian. Only two members of the cast are actually Australian, while the

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Arts & Culture Sept. 2011

at the box office By Dean Crawford

korean DVD corner

By Daniel Joseph Vorderstrasse

Hangover Part II and Bridesmaids

Public Enemy (공공의 적)

Another Public Enemy (공공의 적 2)

Good squares off against evil in this classic action film, which garnered the Best Actor award (Sol Gyung-gu) and was well-received by critics and audiences. In the film, a policeman's struggles are documented and the psychological effects the job exerts are evident during the beginning stages. Kang Chul-jung's (Sol Gyung-gu) partner was as corrupt as they came, eventually killing himself when Internal Affairs' investigation centered on his activities. Labeled a corrupt accomplice, Kang now works under a demanding police captain determined to reestablish respect in the ranks. Businessman Jo Gyu-hwan (Lee Sung-jae) is the epitome of ambition and will stop at nothing to obtain his goals. The struggling detective and lucrative businessman cross paths when Gyu-hwan brutally murders his parents over monetary disputes and a disagreement over a will's apportioning of its funds. While the detective is answering the call of nature on an unrelated stakeout, he is attacked while confronting Gyu-hwan. The following day, when the bodies are found, Chul-jung pieces the timeline together and searches for clues leading to the assailant. Finding key pieces of evidence, the captain declares him lead detective, so Chul-jung seeks revenge upon the attacker who mangled him in the street one fateful night before. The buildup to the action takes some time to develop, unlike other Korean action films that begin with pyrotechnic special effects before the beginning credits finish. Some plotlines detract from the main rivalry and extend the narratives. It lightly degrades the movie from an epic work of action entertainment to a complicated narrative resulting in a slightly better-than-average episode. The film could have thrived, but disappointed compared to today's generation of action spectacles full of computer effects. That said, the decade-old creation still possesses entertainment value and offers an alternative to big budget blockbuster action screenings, so a nice change of pace is in store in this classic Korean action spectacular.

The second installment of the action trilogy comes to the screen when actor Sol Gyung-gu returns as the “hero” portraying the incorruptible prosecutor Kang Chul-jung (same name as the detective he portrayed in the original). Making meager wages is not a conflicting consideration for this lowly bureaucrat; quenching evil and placing society’s vermin behind bars is his only ambition. His greatest challenge approaches in the form of ex-schoolmate Han Sang-woo (Jeong Jun-ho), who inherited his family’s money after his elder brother’s suspicious death. To begin the proceedings, Prosecutor Kang launches a full-scale war on three gangs operating in the area, seeking to terminate gang rule. After a reckless, albeit successful raid, Prosecutor Kang revisits a case involving Sang-woo, currently serving as chairman of a prestigious golf academy, due to suspicious circumstances. The director of the academy approaches the prosecution seeking to stop Sang-woo’s deeds, but abruptly relinquishes his request after Sang-woo’s influences are exerted. After discussing the predicament with the director, Kang Chul-jung is determined to put an end to Sang-woo’s reign and put a stop to his authoritative rule. Although the sequel is unrelated in terms of a timeline with the first installment, the movie follows a similar plotline, with names and faces changed along the way, but the gist remains. An unorthodox protagonist with honest values and a deep drive to punish those exploiting others is pitted against an arrogant antagonist seeking more power than is possibly obtainable. The tension is higher and adrenaline flows more freely in the sequel. The stakes continually rise until a boiling point is reached. While going a little overboard on the theatrics at the conclusion and overdramatizing certain situations, this simple action-drama of good vs. evil exhibits a solid sequel to an entertaining beginning of the action trilogy.

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Sept 1 Colombiana Zoe Saldana, Callum Blue

Sept 7 Mr. Popper's Penguins Jim Carrey, Carla Gugino

Sept 8 Final Destination 5 Nicholas D'Agosto, Emma Bell

As the summer months draw to a close, so do releases of big budget blockbusters. The robots have powered down and the superheroes have packed away their tights in preparation for next summer and, in my opinion, this couldn't have happened sooner. I can’t

Is Drive Angry 3D Worth it? September sees the latest in an extremely long line of 3D releases, in the shape of "Drive Angry 3D" starring the enigmatic Nicholas Cage. It’s not that I totally dislike the whole 3D phenomenon - as I thought "Avatar" (2009) looked great - yet I found the film was lacking something. In particular, a decent story. I really enjoyed "Beowulf" (2007) and "Final Destination 3D" (2009) was cheesy fun. Sept 15 Shark Night 3D Sara Paxton, Alyssa Diaz

explain how disappointed I was with "Captain America" (2011) and don’t get me started on "Transformers: Dark of the Moon" (2011). So if you are like me and simply want to enjoy yourself again, you could well be in for a treat as the end of August sees the release of "The Hangover Part II." Having already been released in most territories, "The Hangover Part II" has been a phenomenal success, amassing a gargantuan $500,000,000 worldwide. While I wasn’t the biggest fan of the original film, I was pleased with its success due to director Todd Phillips’ gamble in waiving his usual salary and insisting on making the film without any "stars." So what can we expect from the sequel, which is now the biggest R-Rated comedy of all time? By all accounts "The Hangover Part II" is very similar to the first film except for the new

setting of Thailand. This time round it is Stu who’s getting married, but after a quiet, prewedding meal goes awry the guys wake up facing mayhem with no recollection of what took place the night before. Sorry, did I say it sounds very similar? What I meant to say was, "this sounds like a carbon copy of the first film." Surely director Todd Phillips’ main task was to keep the original elements that made the first film such a hit, while at the same time giving audiences something new so they don’t feel like they are watching the exact same movie. But it appears as if he has gone for the "if it isn’t broken, don’t fix it" approach. "The Hangover Part II" follows the same formula, which will take away a lot of the surprise and enjoyment you had in watching the original film. So if you didn’t particularly enjoy "The Hangover" the first time around, I fear Part II will offer you nothing more in terms of laughs. "Bridesmaids," which has been dubbed "The Hangover with women" is out in Korea on the same weekend and my advice would be to choose the bridal party over the groomsmen as you would have no doubt seen "The Hangover Part II" in some shape or form already.

But the final straw in my 3D viewing was Tim Burton's "Alice in Wonderland" (2010). Was it even shot in 3D? Because I couldn't tell. Another final straw was "Clash of the Titans" (2010). I actually watched half of that film with the glasses off. But then the final, FINAL, straw was "Green Lantern" (2011). I wanted to like that film so much, but instead it made me wonder if 3D was nothing more than a con to swindle more won from my wallet. Could Drive Angry 3D change my mind? Nicholas Cage plays Milton, a vengeful father who escapes from hell and chases the men who killed his daughter and kidnapped

his granddaughter. So, Nicholas Cage leaves hell and drives around killing people. Sound familiar? But I can assure you this is no "Ghost Rider" (2007), as when it comes to Nicholas Cage, never has that iconic line from "Forest Gump" (1994) been more relevant. He is indeed like that proverbial box of chocolates and you really never know what you’re going to get. There’s no doubt the guy is a talented actor, "Leaving Las Vegas" (1995), "Adaptation" (2002) and "Wild at Heart" (1990) are clear examples of that, but whenever you feel like you’re starting to warm to him he goes and makes "The Wicker Man" (2006), "Season of the Witch" (2011) or even worse, the aforementioned "Ghost Rider." But after what I thought was an excellent return to form in "The Bad Lieutenant: Port of Call - New Orleans" (2009) and "The Sorcerer’s Apprentice" (2010), his run continues in "Drive Angry 3D." Drive Angry is poorly acted, over the top and gory, but at times it’s a lot of fun. It takes itself too seriously on occasion to be a really good "bad" film like Neveldine/Taylors "Crank" (2006) but it is a fun film to see at the cinema and I never thought I would say this, but I definitely recommend seeing it in 3D as the sight of limbs and bullets hurtling towards the screen is surely what the medium was really made for.

Sept 22 Contagion Matt Damon, Gwyneth Paltrow

Sept 22 The Killer Elite Jason Statham, clive owen

Sept 29 Abduction Taylor Lautner, Sigourney Weaver

September 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 33

Arts & Culture Sept. 2011

book review

By Daniel Joseph Vorderstrasse

Shanghai Girls By Lisa See In 1937, a picturesque Shanghai hustles and bustles, becoming known as “the Paris of Asia.” Two sisters are at the heart of Western colure in the city; Pearl and her younger sister May fraternize with Western friends by night and serve as calendar pin-up girls for artists by day. Their lives turn into a living when their broke father sells then and bombs later rain down on the illustrious city. Facing mountain gambling debts, their father decides to sell his two treasures as brides to a Chinese-American entrepreneur. The grooms are “Gold Mountain Men” who expect their newly purchased brides to meet them for the voyage back to America. Facing crushed dreams and empty futures, the two sisters deceive their father’s promise to the gangsters and remain in Shanghai. After a temporary solution to their problems, Japanese aggression reduces Shanghai to ruins and the girls’ lives are destroyed. Following a state of panic, Pearl and May join forces with their mother fleeing the city in terror, searching for relief from Japan’s imperial expansion. Presented with a hazardous journey complicated by savage Japanese soldiers and countryside swindlers, the family must band together to escape to America.

While China is invaded by the Japanese, America is overcome by waves of immigrants seeking relief from war’s hardships. Pearl and May spend their first days in America on secluded Angel Island in a detention center, joined by other “paper-wives” and miscreants seeking entry. Countless interrogations

leave the girls distraught and flustered, compounded by Pearl’s post-traumatic stress from rape via Japanese soldiers and May’s introduction of a new member of the family. Seeking to begin new lives in Los Angeles’ Chinatown, they must exist within the preceding tragic events fresh in their heads. Lisa See brings her expansive knowledge of Chinese culture and familial experience to the table by exemplifying the situation faced by countless Chinese seeking escape during Japan’s invasion, then during the country’s brutal war. A distant descendent of Chinese immigrants, she uses learned knowledge of Chinatown and the old country to give a glimpse into troubles faced by those seeking a fresh start in a new country. The bonds of sisterhood stand front and center as she weaves an engaging story between two girls who grow and drift toward each other while acquiring a greater understanding of self. Emotional tension is carried out poetically and, combined with vivid descriptions of scenery, action, and characters, an entertaining piece of literature is transposed. The novel follows the sisters’ lives over a number of years as they mature from adventurous teenagers into loving and caring providers for “their” daughter Joy. The historical novel provides brief history lessons to China’s 20th century progression.

SUPER COLOR SUPER Two Rising Indie Acts in September By Lynn Hong

Perfume Genius Gold Panda UK electronic musician Gold Panda assembles a raga of skillfully jolted and tripped out beats glazed with the zest of a musical vagabond. Drawing from his collection of lesser-known gems that range from dubstep, trance, glitch, techno, and hip-hop, Gold Panda splices and fuses these colorful splinters into an ebb of ingenuity. His mosaic-like style is best represented by the Pitchfork-favored track, “You,” in which gritty undertones are hidden under the glint of its melodic loops. His songs seem to harness a double-entendre of homeliness shrouding a seedy underground reminiscent of his time spent working odd jobs at adult stores and record stores. After remixing various artists including Little Boots, Telepathe, Bloc Party, Simian Mobile Disco, Health and The Field, Gold Panda released three EPs of his own material. His signature sound displays a fluidity and harmony that distinguishes him from dub-step-influenced musicians flooding the scene at the moment. Perhaps this flexibility stems from his experience of studying Japanese at the School of Oriental and African Studies and his subsequent decision to live in Japan for a while. In fact, he himself acknowledges that his early EPs “Miyamae” and “Quitters Raga” incorporate elements of Japanese culture in their production. The certain worldliness present in his music has intrigued the likes of Dazed and Confused, The Guardian, NME and Pitchfork. Following the release of two critically acclaimed albums “Lucky Shiner” (2010) and “Companion” (2011), Gold Panda makes four stops in Korea with SUPER COLOR SUPER from 9/7 to 9/10. Four different gigs in four major cultural hubs of Korea--Gwangju, Daegu, Busan, and Seoul—offer the perfect chance to experience his divine combination of musical grit and gold. Schedule • Sep. 7 GWANGJU, NEVERMIND • Sep. 8 DAEGU, URBAN • Sep. 9 BUSAN, INTERPLAY • Sep. 10 SEOUL, ROLLING HALL Advance tickets: 25,000 won / Door: 30,000 - SEOUL Advance tickets: 15,000 / Door: 20,000 - ALL OTHER CITIES

At the spine of Perfume Genius’ bare-bones album “Learning” (2011), there lies a scent that seeps through the heart. It is a scent so penetratingly truthful, one that harbors the dark and the light. Behind the stage name Perfume Genius is Mike Hadreas, a young man who has weathered the torrents of sexual abuse, questionable relationships, substance addiction and loss. These are experiences both deeply personal and universal, and the realization of this fact was what guided Hadreas towards songwriting and performing. Cloaked under the quietude of his mother’s house, Hadreas found self-remedy in taking apart and piecing together events of his life into song-form. Among these are “Write to Your Brother,” which speaks of Oedipal desires with lyrics referencing a mother treating a son “like a lover”; “Mr. Peterson,” a tale about blurring the line in a relationship with a teacher. When he croons that “no one will answer your prayers ‘til you take off that dress,” a quiet despondency seems to dampen the air. Thus, it seems easy to typecast these piano ballads as those of tragedy and melancholy, but the truth is quite the contrary. Throughout the record, Hadreas maintains a poise that floats above the grime of the dark subject matter of these songs. His ballads possess the power of confession, one that allows an individual to confront the shadows of human nature and acknowledge that good and evil coexist. Perhaps the reason his songs resonate is his courage to let go. Instead of struggling against imperfection, Hadreas embraces it and unveils the very beauty of it. This theme is echoed in his music, as “Learning” is not crafted as a clean-cut, polished record. Inside the string-strung lyrics, there nests the warmth of the lo-fi buzz akin to the intimacy of his room. There is a grace in the way he does not resist the tides of ordeals, but instead rides on them. Lauded in the US for his gift of honesty, Perfume Genius plays at Busan Interplay and Seoul Platoon Kunsthalle on 9/15 and 9/16, making his first debut in Korea in collaboration with SUPER COLOR SUPER. His performance here is bound to be a naked lesson of integrity and hope. Schedule • Sep. 15 BUSAN, INTERPLAY • Sep. 16 SEOUL, PLATOON KUNSTHALLE Advance tickets: 25,000 won / Door: 30,000 - SEOUL Advance tickets: 15,000 / Door: 20,000 - BUSAN

www.supercolorsuper.com 34 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| september 2011

September 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 35

Arts & Culture Sept. 2011

Barletta

DJ Craze

Multi Seoul Dosing the Club Scene with Music By Kathy Kearns

photos by the raccoon and max eow

f you’re a fan of the nightlife scene in Korea, chances are that you’ve been to a Multi party. From places like Mansion, Answer, Volume and the new 112 Lounge in Seoul to Elune in Busan, Multi parties are known for bringing top international DJs and the latest electronic music to Korea. Innovators like Klever and Tittsworth, up-and-coming artists like AC Slater and Far Too Loud and talented local DJs like Kingmck and Eugene Blake, have graced the decks at their events. Last month, Multi hit the road on a mini-tour with the five-time DMC World Champion, DJ Craze, who packed the house in Manila and Busan, ending with a euphoric crowd at Club Volume in Seoul.

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Kingmck

But this is no ordinary bunch of promoters. Multi is a group with music, not money, on its mind. With Korea’s current club scene mainly centered around bottle service and a luxury lifestyle, Multi’s goal is to put the focus back on the music and to introduce the Korean audience to new artists and cuttingedge sounds. “We want to bring in DJs that are not so well known, but that are huge in NY or London or Tokyo, and then bring in crowds who are coming just for the music,“ explains Samuel Swanson, Multi’s founder. “Every DJ we’ve brought, it’s been their first time in Seoul and it’s been their first time in Korea,” adds Ryan Wykes (a.k.a. Ryan Wade), Multi’s director of Marketing & Promotions. Even more than that, Multi is trying to freshen up a scene that is saturated with DJs who have already hit the decks in Korea numerous times. “Asia has been like a retirement home for all these old DJs. Respect to the old school, but if you’ve been out here five times before and you’re like 45 years old, there’s no point for me to bring you out here, is there?” Swanson’s words paint a clear picture of the need for diversity and in-

novation. With all of Multi’s core members having worked in the club scene outside of Korea, they each bring a unique global perspective and are not afraid to give the status quo a swift kick in the ass in order to bring Korea up to the next level. As they continue to carve out their own path and shape the nightlife scene as they go, they do have a bit of an uphill battle to fight, but they’ve been progressing swiftly and with much success. And it’s not just expats who are picking up what Multi is putting down. Multi has been making a concentrated effort to get its name out among quality Korean DJs and their circles of followers, and has thus seen its Korean audience grow quite a bit. “If you came to one of our events over a year and a half ago, you’d see the majority of the crowd was foreign, whereas now you’ll see a lot more Koreans who are into the music that we’re bringing. And we’re one of the only outlets for them who are bringing that type of music,” Wykes explains. Multi’s crew has also recently expanded from just Swanson and Wykes to include about five or six additional promoters, adding those networks into the mix as well.

So where did these guys come from and how did they go about making it in the Korean nightlife industry? Multi was started about two years ago by Swanson, who quickly joined forces with Wykes. The two moved here from Toronto separately and met for the first time in Seoul back in 2007. Both had a passion for and a deep knowledge of club music and both had the business and street smarts needed to identify an opportunity in the market and make a dent in the club scene. Swanson originally had a t-shirt shop in Toronto that hosted underground and after parties in its basement, which attracted a strong Japanese following. So when he came to Korea with the online version of the shop, he began throwing events with Japanese DJs and things blossomed from there. Soon he and Wykes started booking some of the local DJs, as well as DJs from the American east coast and Toronto, which had not been typical in Korea. “We saw a market for stuff that we like, especially from NY. We were into the street wear and Brooklyn DJ scene and we didn’t have that here, so we needed to build it up. And a lot of the local DJs didn’t have a place to play that style of

September 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 37

Arts & Culture

COLUMN

MANA

Sept. 2011

Behind Seoul’s Party Scene by Karen Tam There are many people working tirelessly behind the scenes to make Seoul’s nightlife what it is. Let me give you a run down of some of the best party promotion companies in the city.

Krome Entertainment Krome Entertainment, a marketing, planning and execution company, hosts mainlySeoul events. The three partners in Krome are Joe Kim, Jason Suh and Donna Ma. They work only with the finest vendors and venues, and through these events, they also provide marketing opportunities and visibility for their vendors and sponsors. Krome has been around for a little over a year and executed numerous successful events such as Pussy Cat Dolls Live in Seoul and the Calvin Klein Lingerie Fashion Show. The fashion-wise and free-spirited young individuals come to Krome events to be noticed. Be part of Krome's Facebook group or add

Clowns

music,” explains Swanson. Wykes used to MC hip-hop nights as far back as high school and quickly got into the electronic music scene. After moving to Seoul and teaming up with Swanson, he immediately “caught the bug,” which Swanson already had, and was hooked on throwing parties. The two started out throwing hiphop parties under the brand “Pottymouth,” but discovered that the genre was a tough sell in Korea. They eventually went back to throwing mostly electronic parties under the Multi name, although they have made progress with hip-hop parties. Today, one of Multi’s regular parties is called No Gimmicks, which currently takes place at 112 in Itaewon. The party features a lineup of local DJs, half Korean and half foreign, including resident DJs Kingmck, Eugene Blake, Clowns, Andow, and Eric EQ. No Gimmicks was born out of a frustration with repeatedly seeing the same types of parties being thrown all the time in Seoul, typically ones built up around some sort of sexy dress-up theme. “The parties are a big middle finger to the plague of gimmick parties circulating the Seoul scene right now where the emphasis is who's wearing the skankiest nurses costume as opposed to the music,” says Multi’s Events Manager and resident DJ, Sebastien Rousset (Clowns). Come to a No Gimmicks party and not only will you get your music fix, but you can expect to get hit with anything from Moombahton to Dubstep to Druggie Electro or Hard Bass and Ragga.

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them on Twitter "kromekorea" to get all their event notices.

Multi has a stacked lineup scheduled including highly in-demand artist, DJEDJOTRONIC, and the originator of mash-ups, Cosmo Baker. Here are a few dates to note:

• • • • • • •

Sept. 3 DJ ATWAR at Answer, Seoul Sept. 3 DJ ATWAR at Elune, Busan Sept. 3 COSMO BAKER at 112, Seoul Sept. 23 DJEDJOTRONIC, Seoul Sept. 24 DJEDJOTRONIC at Elune, Busan Oct. 8 GIRL UNIT, Seoul Oct. 14 LE CASTLE VANIA at Answer, Seoul

To find out more information about Multi’s upcoming events, go to multiseoul.com

No Gimmicks parties are also a chance for skilled expat DJs to shine. Rousset, who grew up in the U.K. and most recently lived in Australia, can be seen doing his thing into the wee hours of the morning. And don’t expect to sit on the sidelines when he steps into the

What is MANA and what does it mean? In games and fiction, manas are considered "energy" and "power" balls used to charge the gamer. Also a pun on the Korean words 만나 meaning "to meet" and 많아 meeting "a lot." Therefore, when people attend MANA events, they connect and meet a lot of great people and feel the good "energy" and "power." MANA has only been around since March this year and has already become one of the top promoting companies in Seoul. They host club parties, but the also reach out to the community. They held a fundraiser for earthquake and tsunami victims in Japan. You can follow MANA on Facebook to keep up with their next events.

NEXCITE Founded over two years ago by CEO Heath Bennett, Nexcite is remarkably one of the oldest promotion companies around. With the help of partners Eric McLee, Jeff Cho, Sky Muhammad, and Jade Kim, they specialize in events, promotions, public relations, marketing and branding. Nexcite has thrown over 200 events in over 100 venues. One big reason Nexcite is still successful is the fact that they do not throw parties or events at the same place back to back. They’re always looking for new venues and new themes. Nexcite has thrown parties at Club Ellui, Club Heaven, Club Volume, Club Answer, Club Roccoco and many more. Join the Nexcite group on Facebook to look for future events.

Party Like A Rockstar Party like a Rockstar was founded by Sangrim Jade Kim. People who attend their parties are people who enjoy good music with good vibes, basically more music - less talk. “Seeing my friends happy at the end of my event is what keeps me going," is what Jade always says. SKY Events SKY Events - short for "Social Korea Youth" - was formed to provide students and young energetic individuals an opportunity to meet and bond at a variety of different activities, such as cultural events and pool parties. It celebrated its one-year anniversary at at Club Answer on Sept. 1. Irene Park, a.k.a. DJ Shotgun, and Carlos Olivo are ready to take the nightlife in Seoul to a whole new level. The duo started Sky Events along with students of Seoul’s top universities to help bring the student bodies together. They collaborated with HUSKEY - which is an acronym for the top 12 universities in Korea - and hosted the White Party at Club Volume. They also had a Masquerade Ball at Club Ellui, where everyone had to come dressed with a mask. For weekly parties and event information, follow Young At Heart (the-young-at-heart.tumblr.com).

September parties to mark on the calendar •

Grand Opening of Money Lounge – Sept. 9 at Money Lounge in Apgujeong

•

Moguai Lyve Asian Tour – Sept. 16 at Club Volume in Itaewon

•

Sky Events: Light Party – Sept. 22 at Club Volume in Itaewon DJ EDJOTRONIC – Sept. 23

DJ booth. “When I play, I want people to get excited and jump up and down. That means lots of bass, solid buildups and tasty drops,” Rousset explains. “When I club, I want the music to be irresistible, to the point where I can't not dance. This is my objective when I DJ.” It’s no wonder that Multi parties have been known to go until the break of dawn and beyond. This is a crew that definitely knows how to throw down and let loose. As most expats well know, it can be challenging to try and grow a business in Korea, but Multi has been building up relationships and trust, strengthening its ties to the Korean nightlife community. “A lot of the time Korean people say, ‘you can’t do this’ or ‘that’s not the way it works.’ But people are people, so if it’s a good product and if it’s fun, it’s pretty universal that it will work after time,” notes Swanson. If you ask Swanson what his dream party would be, you can get a little taste of his creativity at work. “I would like it dark, no air conditioner, no cameras and somewhere unique.” Dark and sweaty? Check. Alcohol? Check. No photographic evidence? Check. Sounds like things could get interesting. “I want to do something where no one is doing a party, somewhere where no one has been. I don’t care where it is, just something different and not a club. That’s my dream.” With the progress Multi has made so far, chances are that we’ll be attending that party soon enough. And hopefully we won’t regret anything in the morning.

September 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 39

GROOVe with seoulvibes

Partying on the

This is a column dedicated to electronic music in Korea. Our aim is to give Groove Korea readers: interviews and updates on what is happening on the peninsula. Feel free to contact the links below for information on clubs, DJs, or events! www.samurai.fm/seoulvibes | seoulvibes@gmail.com | www.myspace.com/seoulvibes

ASIA

Peninsula

One really needs a personal assistant to coordinate their weekends when it comes to partying on the peninsula. The scene like the country itself has risen from obscurity to become one of the most pulsating and tantalizing destinations in the world. Electronic dance music (EDM) is played everywhere, but there are only a few clubs and promoters that spend their cover charges and sponsorship to finance international talent.

In Daegu, you need to grab yourself a copy of Compass to see what events are on the go. Our top pick is Pasha which is upscale and hosts electronic beats. G2 is a trendier club with a mandatory cover of 15000 which caters to a younger crowd. Be warned they do not allow military unless they are friends with someone affiliated with the club. The longest running venue Club Frog started out as a modest basement bar before upgrading to a multilevel complex that is also equipped with a rooftop bar. This club rarely brings big names, but big crowds pack it in every weekend. The music is mainly hip hop with some electro thrown in at times. Daegu’s scene is still in its infancy, but outside promoters are putting in a strong effort to change the electronic landscape. With almost three million people residing in this area it is just a matter of time before things explode.

hongdae itaewon

Gangnam

Seoul

daegu Busan

Down in Busan, it is hit-and-miss with everyone vying for a share of the tourist dollars. The most consistent clubs are Elune and Maktum, and both posh venues are located at Haeundae Beach. Foxy located in Seomyeon is an excellent choice off the beach and has been importing a lot of talent from the capital. Another place to check-out is Vinyl Underground in the Kyungsundae area. Heading to Busan for the film festival there will be an ample amount of open-air blowouts featuring

world-class talent. It appears as though the summer capital is now staking its claim to being one of the marquis destinations for artists on tour in Asia. Perhaps it is the sea air or the transient crowds that pack the clubs, but there is no question that this metropolis has a vibe unique unto itself. Up in the capital Seoul, the selection is quite vast with the city’s clubs divided by the Han River. The capital has the added advantage of employing some talented production and booking agencies. This forward thinking has benefited both club and clubber. The companies to follow are: Foundation Records, Good Ass Music, HSK Management, Multi, Nexcite, 02 Productions, Riskei, Seoulcialite Agency, VU Entertainment, and of course Supermodified, which books talent throughout Asia. The promotion and talent that these companies have brought has made the city one of the most sought after destinations the world over. Their risk and toil have elevated the scene to what it is. In affluent Gangnam, events used to shutdown before dawn, but that is no longer the case as the poseur crowd has been elevated to balconies and the pit is packed and thrives with stylish partygoers. If you are looking to be seen in the scene then we recommend Answer and/or Heaven, both of which have a decent party vibe and at times book some exceptional DJs. The

most vivacious club is maSS which seems to be the playground for the capitals’ youth. One of the most consistent venues is Eden located in the basement of the Ritz Carlton. The club that is the flavor at the moment is Ellui, which leans towards a techno-based music policy. The club itself is massive and boasts two zones of music and only opens on the weekend. North of the Han, Volume once rated in DJ MAG’s top 100 has fell from grace but HSK is doing its best to uplift its rank while Club Rococo is still searching for its identity, but rumors have it that 02 embed themselves at this local. In Hongdae, M2 and Vera have been dueling for supremacy, but both seem to concentrate on quantity of guests as opposed to quality of music. Mansion has had some massive blowouts thanks to some outside promoters that have reinvigorated the varsity ghetto with fresh sounds and artistry. And in Itaewon, there seems to be a battle for dance floor real-estate at the moment with the club map forever changing. There is no question that this area of Seoul has become the epicenter of dance culture. The venues in this area are centralized and if you enjoy variety and club hopping then this area is a must. Best to peep the neighborhood map section of Groove Korea to see who is in and out.

The scene is heavily subsidized by sponsors and that attributes to the amount of talent that graces the decks every weekend from Seoul to Busan. When sponsorship pulls out then cancellations are inevitable, so it is best to confirm artists via MYSPACE or FACEBOOK also check PARTYLUV.COM for their listings. Print out the club map or get the directions put on your phone in Hangul. With GPS tracking most taxi drivers will have you at the club while others aimlessly search for sunrise. Pack your shades because you are going to need them in the morning — since that is the only “calm” you will get clubbing on the peninsula. 40 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| september 2011

September 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 41

Destinations Sept. 2011

Meet the Swindlers

would wipe the sweat from my eyes if I thought it would make any difference at all. This room, if you can call it that, has been designed to sweat a sale out of us. We’ve been trapped in this art gallery for more than 30 minutes now, listening to Firman, owner and artist, extoll the virtues of authentic Javanese art.

A Thous Secondsand of Solitu de Rolled into

One Fleetin Instant g

articl

e & photos

42 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| september 2011

By Flash

“Javanese art,” Firman says, rather proudly, “is the art of an oasis. It is the art of one of the last great civilizations; tropical in origin, colonial in heritage. Java was the center of the Dutch East Indies, the world’s greatest Hindu-Buddhist Empire and ascendant Islamic Kingdoms. These forces conspired to influence Indonesia’s art culture, and you are in the center of it here in Jogjakarta.” I can’t help but wonder if it was the heat that forced the Dutch, the Buddhists and the Hindus to leave. I ask Firman. “This is a simple, dry heat,” he says. “This is good weather for Jogja.” I shudder at the thought of what a complex, wet heat would feel like.

Parker

September 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 43

Destinations Sept. 2011

“I forgot my wallet back at the hotel,” I say. “We’ll be right back.” “You’re not really going to buy that painting, are you?” Megan asks as we explore the alleyways off Malioboro for a place to eat. A few short hours ago we were lounging by the pool at our quaint Jalan Malioboro hotel when Jentik, the guy who waits by the front door but doesn’t actually do anything, asked us if we wanted to have a look at some authentic Indonesian art. I said no. Megan, my traveling companion and the more astutely artistic of us, agrees that we’ll go along with Jentik to his brother’s gallery. Besides, Megan says, “we need an important piece of art from every place we visit.” The only thing I’ve managed to collect in this gallery is heatstroke. I’m wise to the game, of course. Neither Jentik nor Firman are artists. Nor are they brothers. But they’re going to work us over like they work over every other unsuspecting tourist that just so happens to stumble curiously into their gallery to peruse the factory-fabricated one-of-a-kind one-of44 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| september 2011

a-millions. These guys are going to wear us down, degree by sweltering degree. I can almost picture Jentik now, laughing like a lunatic as he shovels coal into the gaping maw of the woodstove on the other side of the wall. I can feel my resolve slipping away and I tell Megan we need to leave. “But we haven’t seen even half of the pieces yet,” she cries. I realize drastic measures are in order. I tell Firman that I’ll take the painting on the wall in front of me. “The big one?” he asks, surprised. “It’s nine feet wide.” “Yes,” I say. “I love it.” “The one of President Obama playing cards with Elvis and Jesus?” Megan asks. “That’s the one I like,” I say. “It speaks to me.” I reach out to touch the painting as if

this is really the case. Some of the black paint or charcoal or cobra venom or whatever it was that went into creating this cultural monstrosity comes off on my fingers. I grab Megan by the arm and we make for the door. “I forgot my wallet back at the hotel,” I say. “We’ll be right back.” “You’re not really going to buy that painting, are you?” Megan asks as we explore the alleyways off Malioboro for a place to eat. “I collect three things,” I say, somewhat defiantly. “Photographs, sand and passport stamps. Whatever that thing was, it doesn’t qualify.” It’s about this time that we spy Jentik entering the alley from the other end. We’re trapped. I look around for a way out, but we’re hemmed in on every side by dry cleaners, hookah bars and expat restaurants. Then I see an out. I grab Megan by the arm once more and dive into a narrow doorway, slamming the door closed behind us. Jentik walks past and we are off the hook. We’re distracted by the sound of two chairs being dragged across the floor behind us. A tall, slender Indonesian man with a generous, gapped-tooth smile waves us towards the seats. Megan sits before I can protest and before I realize what’s going on I’m staring at a travel brochure listing tours of Borobodur, the famous Mahayana monument in nearby Magelang. The travel agent – his nametag says Boaz while his posture screams charlatan – tells us which tour

he thinks is perfectly suited to our Western needs and proclivities (the most expensive one) when the door behind us opens. In walks our old friend. “Ah, I see you know my brother Jentik!” Boaz exclaims.

For Concentration and Meditation Understanding Indonesia means not losing your mind when you’re hit over the head with a big fat scam. This is one of the great realities of travel in this part of the world; enterprising men and women are going to work you over based on your perceived station on this big blue marble of ours. It has less to do with racism or nationalism than it does with social perceptions and the Western media; if your country walks, talks and acts like the streets are paved with gold, people in foreign countries are going to check your luggage for ruby slippers. You have to learn to shrug it off and turn the other cheek. Sometimes I’m good at letting these things slide and sometimes I’m not. I’m more upset with getting caught up in brother Jentik’s game than I am with having paid $20 per person to visit Borobodur. We were planning on visiting on our own time, renting a pair of scooters and exploring the complex without a tour guide shoving overpriced postcards down our throats. We thought it might be fun to rent a tri-shaw for the day and tour the country in a decadently leisurely manner, stopping here and there to take photographs of the side of Java less seen September 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 45

Highlights of the 10-hour minibus ride from Jogjakarta to Mount Bromo include Mitch, the Midwestern American, asking if we can stop at the next McDonald’s for lunch (this is true); Andersen, the Dutchman who insisted he ride shotgun and control the radio, telling us how 200 years of colonial rule was a good thing (not joking)...

Destinations Sept. 2011

while feeding each other grapes. Alas, this is life on the road. We take the massive stupa steps one at a time, our cadre of sad-sack Western co-suckers in front and behind. They were outwitted by Jentik, too. There’s so much complaining going on it takes some time for the reality of where we are to dawn on us. Borobodur, abandoned in the 15th century when the Javanese converted to Islam (and the Hindu and Buddhists fled the heat), is one of the most singularly impressive feats of human construction still standing – even if no one has any idea when it was built or what it was built for. The wily English despot Thomas Stamford Raffles uncovered Borobodur in 1814 and named it after the nearby village of Bore; Raffles was unable to discover any written record referencing the monument while researching his book, The History of Java. Borobodur has remained a mystery to the Javanese and the world at large ever since, similar to the way a treadmill perplexes some of our American travel companions and the way a toothbrush flummoxes our South London cohorts. If you climb to the peak of nearby Mount Merapi – as long as it isn’t erupting violently and showering cinders and ash down upon the island – Borobodur resembles a Buddhist mandala, a representation of the nature of mind, time and space as well as a whole host of Buddhist cosmological beliefs. From ground level it reminds me of an ornate fortress, something culled from the pages of Tolkien fantasy. I’ve left our group to climb the nine platforms on my own; as I flit among the 2,672 relief panels, the 504 Buddha statues and hundreds of fierce gargoyles I spy a young monk likewise ascending to the main dome. I watch him stop at one of the western balustrades near a large stone statue of the Buddha, legs crossed and hands folded neatly in his lap. This “mudra,” or position of the hands, symbolizes concentration and meditation. I wonder for a moment what this means to the young monk and why he stopped here; why did he not stop at the “abhaya mudra,” the Buddha with one hand raised to fend off attackers and the other resting solemnly in the lap. The abhaya mudra, according to Jentik, represents fearlessness and courage – it 46 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| september 2011

embodies the Javanese spirit. Yet here stands this monk, solemnly contemplating concentration and meditation in the face of a centuries-old statue. I wonder if the young monk is discovering Borobodur for the first time, like me and like Raffles did nearly 200 years ago. That we have come from such different places, only to arrive at the very same destination at the same time, is so quizzically coincidental that I wonder what the Buddhist cosmonauts would have to say about it. It makes me feel as though there is some latent connection between this magnificent place and the rest of us, between the here and now and whatever will come tomorrow. I would prefer not to give Jentik credit for any of this.

Sulfur is Chemical Element 16 A long journey with Western folk is different from a long journey with Asian folk. Sure, many South East Asians choose to smoke on the bus, drink on the bus and carve slabs of stinky durian for their neighbors to share. What they don’t do while traveling cross-country is complain (noisily), ask inane questions - how hot is it today? – nor do they play their iPods so loud everyone on the bus can hum the chorus (I well and truly hate Abba and I am quickly fostering a distaste for Swedish tourists in general).

Highlights of the 10-hour mini-bus ride from Jogjakarta to Mount Bromo include Mitch, the Midwestern American, asking if we can stop at the next McDonald’s for lunch (this is true); Andersen, the Dutchman who insisted he ride shotgun and control the radio, telling us how 200 years of colonial rule was a good thing (not joking); and Timothy, the Englishman with a strange northeastern accent, causing an international incident when he tells a highway patrolman he is claiming East Java for Queen and Country (I made this one up). This is all Jentik’s fault, of course. Jentik talked us into taking a mini-bus across the island to visit the indomitable Mount Bromo shortly after we returned from Borobodur. I wanted to rent a car; Jentik lambasted us with statistical evidence regarding Java’s road fatalities (the daily death toll, sadly, rises quicker than the mercury in August). So here I sit, all of my 200 pounds squashed into the backseat of a Japanese mini-bus, poor Megan to my right and a German woman with a vast intolerance for touching to my left. Each time I adjust my legs to keep the blood from pooling – I have a severe fear of deep-vein thrombosis since I last drove halfway across one of Indonesia’s massive islands - she clicks her teeth disapprovingly and swats at me with her magazine. I try to break the ice by telling her that I wrote the article she’s reading and I took the pho-

tos on the cover of the magazine, but she just looks at me with a raised eyebrow and frowns. “You Americans think you’re so good at everything,” she says. I’m actually Canadian, but I don’t think this makes any difference. The pain and aggravation involved in getting to Mount Bromo, a ferociously active volcano on the Tengger massif and the main attraction of the Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park is nothing compared to the splendor of experiencing the volcano firsthand. At four in the morning, crawling up a steep, active volcano in a jeep that continuously slips in and out of third gear like a cobra slips into your sleeping bag, battling the nefarious mud butt goblins of Javanese lore and sharing the bench seat in the back of the jeep still makes me wish I were someplace else. Still a few minutes before 5 a.m. and already I’m shoulder to shoulder with 2,500 people on the Mount Penanjakan viewing platform adjacent to the sulfur-spewing giant, Bromo. Point-and-shoot cameras flash all around us in an effort to bridge the distance between our station and the volcano. I quietly remove myself from the crowd and find a secluded spot further down the hill. Megan swings her camera wildly above her head in an effort to keep the horde from rallying to our position; moments before we’re overrun and my tripod is appropriated by a zealous Canadian photography enthusiast, the sun breaches the Sea of Sand’s meager defenses, shines through the sulfur clouds and bathes the peaks of the ancient triumvirate in soft morning light. The jostling ends for a time. Some people shake hands with each another; this sort of thing seems quite natural at a few minutes past 5 while standing on a mountain in Indonesia. Some people hug. I search out Jentik and tell him that I’m glad we’ve come. Jentik may not have had a hand in forging the river stone gargoyles at Borobodur and he certainly had nothing to do with carving out Bromo’s caldera, yet he remains my strongest point of contact to the foundation of Java. Jentik shakes my hand and tells me that this is how the sun rises over Mount Bromo.

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Borobodur, Mount Bromo One is a millennia-old, ill-tempered volcano. The other is an ancient 8th century Mahayana monument, a towering shrine to the Lord Buddha that had long been lost to the ages. Together they are a part of the very foundation of Java, the most populous of Indonesia’s islands. They are as easily accessible as they are difficult to comprehend, yet standing in their presence affords an opportunity to connect, if only for a moment, with something fleeting, something ethereally inspiring. Bromo and Borobodur are linked by more than geographic location; they share a special position in the stratosphere of minds as places of wonder and magic mankind may never fully understand. Standing atop their mighty peaks and gazing out over the world below is nothing short of a euphoric experience, a thousand seconds of solitude rolled into one fleeting instant, a time to reflect and connect with some of the 135 million souls dotting the Javanese countryside that may likewise be gazing skyward.

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Destinations Sept. 2011

Expecting the Muddle, and Finding a Gem article & photos by Colin Roohan

hile traveling through India you can’t help but think to yourself, “Why did I want to come here, again?”

Providing a host of unique travel obstacles, Incredible India has brought even the most experienced nomad angst (if not an inch off of their hairline). My time in India flashed before my eyes, faster than hips in a Bollywood flick. Having conquered four out of five cities on my India journey (Delhi, Agra, Varanasi, Bodhgaya), I felt slightly relieved that I would soon be on home soil. There was, however, one stop left – Kolkata. After my visit to the perplexing muddle that is Delhi, the thought of braving another enormous Indian city worried me. My train, the Doon Express, pulled into Howrah station and I heard the regular donnybrook accompanying any Indian train station: packages being tossed, car hoppers comically jumping about and chai wallahs frantically sloshing around their steaming pitchers of tea. When I hopped off the Doon I immediately noticed that something was conspicuously absent. No one was bothering me – no one! I wondered if the floating dollar sign above my head had miraculously disappeared. Or 48 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| september 2011

could it be my travel ‘stache was living up to its level of excellence? More realistically, I thought, the void of touts may have been due to the location of the platform on which I was dropped, but as I soon approached the central vein of the train station I was still able to cruise along at a leisurely stroll. In an attempt to get some directions, I approached an armed policeman who politely told me where the taxi queue was located. After waiting in line (a line in India?!) I hopped into a taxi. After driving for only 5 minutes, my impression was that Kolkata seemed to be organized. It didn’t have the threatening feel of some of the other bigger Indian cities I had traveled in. I had always read that, despite extreme poverty, Kolkata had an eclectic sophistication, which was becoming quite obvious. If you are in limbo about visiting Kolkata due to its geographical location I strongly urge you to make the trip. When planning your Indian adventure, add Kolkata and you will be delightfully pleased.

Kolkata Must Sees: •

Kalighat Kalika Temple For an experience to remember go to the Kalika Temple and witness Hindu pilgrims sacrificing live goats. (No flipflops, things get messy.)

•

Victoria Memorial While visiting Kolkata, the original capital of the British Raj, immerse in the architectural fusion as the Memorial incorporates British and Mughal design.

•

New Market/Hogg Market Entertaining bargaining and sensory overload overlap in this maze of a complex. The Barista Coffee, housed in the New Market, is an affordable café that has western style coffee drinks so delicious you might order a second latte.

For more of Colin's photos, check out his flickr site.

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Destinations Sept. 2011

The Jewel in the Crown of Kashmir Photos by Melissa Hubley

The name Kashmir is synonymous with conflict, but it boasts places of spectacular beauty. Dal Lake glimmers in the middle of Srinagar, the regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most populous city. People live on the water, sell on the water, travel the water. In the morning, the lakes are glassy and mist-covered. In the afternoon, they are mirrors that reflect the sky and Himalayas. Every now and then a kingfisherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dive will pierce the surface. The lake is a sanctuary for myriad birds, and a peaceful spot in a region plagued with conflict.

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Food & Drink Sept. 2011

Since neither can be found in Korea, I was curious to try the cheesesteak here. I walked in with my companion and we were blown away by the authentic American taste that we encountered at BJ’s. As it turns out, the specialty “Cheez Whiz” is made from scratch by the sandwich chef (who speaks excellent English) with ingredients sent to him by his mother from the U.S. It tastes great melted into the steak, served on a toasted bun. The optional veggies that came with the sandwich were fresh and enhanced the flavor of the cheesesteak experience. My companion ordered a pepper steak with provolone cheese, which ~ was served with a homemade Korean-style pepper sauce and jalapeno peppers – just right for the Korean palate – spicy, robust and bursting with flavor. Ask for your sandwich unwrapped if you want to behold its glory, or wrapped to avoid the glorious mess. Either way, BJ’s Steaks is a true homage to Geno’s Steaks of Southside Philadelphia. To get to BJ’s, exit Seoul National University of Education subway stop at Exit 1. Walk straight for two blocks and turn right at Family Mart. After another block, turn left. BJ’s is on the left just past the cafe.

Rating: HH out of 4 Stars Price: W

Restaurant Review:

BJ’s Steaks

By Laine Ritter

n the way to my Korean language class in Gangnam, I encountered a restaurant serving a classic in American sandwiches – the Philly cheesesteak. For the uninitiated, a Philadelphia (a.k.a. Philly) cheesesteak consists of thinly sliced beef with melted cheese served on a baguette-style bread roll. An authentic Philly cheesesteak will use a special version of Cheez Whiz (a processed cheese made by Kraft Foods) and an Amoroso bread roll. (Amoroso is a baking company in Philly.) 52 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| september 2011

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Food & Drink Sept. 2011

Urbs & Spices by read urban

Superlative Thai on an Indonesian Island

nstead of braving the downpour in Seoul, I decided to spend most of the summer in Indonesia. I usually try to keep my vacation plans loose, with only two main objectives: eat as much good food as possible and drink the local beer.

Most of my typical day was spent trying to find the best restaurants with the most authentic food, with the rest spent next to the beach with a Bintang, the popular pilsner. I ate my way through fried noodles, tempeh, egg curries and fresh fruits. I implore you to travel in Indonesia, eat their food and enjoy its culture. But this month, I am not going to write about Indonesian cuisine. On the eastern shore of Gili Air, an island off the coast of Lombok, is an unassuming restaurant sitting on the beach across from a heaping pile of coconuts. Gili Air Santay meets the necessities for an island restaurant with its thatched roof, bamboo furnishing and raised flatbed seating. The menu has the usual Indonesian fare found at most restaurants on the island, but what sets Gili Air Santay apart is the authentic Thai food served every day. It is a short list of dishes, but each individual plate composes the best of what Thailand has to offer. The owner, Rosi Dobler, brought her Thai food to the island six years ago, after spending a year and a half traveling in Thailand and learning their cuisine. “Thai food is popular, fresh, and healthy,” said Dobler. “Those were my main reasons for bringing Thai food to the Gili Islands.” 54 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| september 2011

Gili Air Santay stays true to Thai flavors by utilizing fresh ingredients. They grow lemongrass, galangal, and keffir lime on the island and make fresh coconut milk every day. Many Thai restaurants have stopped making their own coconut milk, a small difference that explains the quality of Santay's food. Although most of the ingredients are grown on the island, there are two important products that Dobler has to source outside of Gili Air. Finding the right kind of rice noodles can be difficult in Indonesia, and she is adamant that Thai fish sauce is a necessary ingredient in her food. “Fish sauce is the salt of Thailand,” She said, and Indonesian brands just aren’t right. The first dishes I explored on the menu were the curries. With most of the menu, you can choose whatever protein you like, ranging from tofu to fish. Being on an island, I chose fish in most of mine. The fresh coconut milk plays an important role in each of their curries, providing a rich broth without the heavy oiliness often found in canned coconut milk. It allows the flavors of the curry paste to come out and meld with the rest of the dish. In the green curry with pineapple, the acidity of the pineapple cuts through any richness the coconut milk has and provides a counterpoint to the fish. The Masaman curry is a rich broth of potatoes and peanuts, studded with whole star anise and a large cinnamon stick. The curry immediately encompassed every aspect of comfort food. I could eat the Santay Masaman curry on a cold winter day, but I found myself savoring the dish on a warm summer night next to the beach. The Pad Thai is their most popular dish, and it is no surprise why. It’s a heaping mound of noodles and vegetables with the bright flavors straight from their garden. It is served with a plate of condiments including fish sauce, fresh chili, palm sugar and sweet Lombok chili in rice vinegar. This is an important aspect of the dish. The condiments allow customers to season the food to their taste. A simple splash of fish sauce and a squeeze of lime can transform the dish completely. This was by far the best Pad Thai I have ever had. Before I left the island, Dobler shared with me her recipe for Pad Thai. It is a light dish, one that makes you forget about greasy, heavily sauced Thai recipes that are unbalanced and clunky. This recipe celebrates fresh ingredients, simple cooking techniques and faithful adherence to Thai flavors.

Gili Air Santay Pad Thai (Serves Two) • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

5 ounces Thai rice noodles (prepared according to package's directions) 1 boneless skinless chicken breast, sliced thin ½ carrot (Cut into matchsticks) ½ cup julianned cabbage Handful of bean sprouts 2 clove of garlic (minced) Handful roasted peanuts (crushed) 2 eggs, beaten 2 Tbsp palm sugar (you can substitute light brown sugar) 5-6 Tbsp Thai fish sauce 2 Tsp rice vinegar (substitute lime juice if you don't have vinegar) 1 lime 2 Tbsp of oil Chopped green onion (garnish)

Heat the oil in a wok or large sauté pan over medium heat. Add the carrots and cook for two to three minutes. Add the garlic, making sure it doesn't burn. Place the chicken in the wok, stirring often, and cook for an additional two to three minutes. When the chicken is partially cooked, add the cabbage and sauté for one minute. According to Dobler, the next step is crucial to her Pad Thai. Pour the egg into the pan, making sure to stir constantly, coating the vegetables and chicken. When the mixture is coated, add the rice noodles, making sure to separate them in the pan. Toss the rice noodles through the vegetables and chicken, stirring only to incorporate them into the dish. Heat the noodles through for another one to two minutes, then add the fish sauce, vinegar, palm sugar, and crushed peanuts. Toss the noodles, adding the bean sprouts right at the end. Transfer to a bowl and garnish with the green onions. Make sure to serve the Pad Thai with extra fish sauce, vinegar, sugar, lime juice and fresh chili. This is another crucial part to the Gili Air Santay Pad Thai. The condiments allow people to tailor the dish to their taste. A tip to avoid greasy Pad Thai: If it seems like the ingredients are sticking and you need to add more oil, introduce a small amount of water into the pan with a spray bottle. This will loosen the mixture and keep the dish light.

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Food & Drink Sept. 2011

Former N.Y. Chef Teaches Korean Cuisine in Seoul By Laine Ritter | photos by ryan noel

alking into a Korean supermarket can be daunting. New sights, sounds and smells bombard you as you try and make sense of unfamiliar ingredients. But there is a way to navigate the Korean culinary landscape.

Ahn Sek-yung, a chef who earned her chops at the Culinary Institute of America in New York, leads Korean cooking classes here in English. Her studio, Plaisir Gourmand (Guilty Pleasure of Good Food), is in Gangnam. “The taste of Korean food is so different from any food we have back home. We have many friends asking us, what does Korean food taste like? Or look like?” said Holger Lehert, a German who recently attended Ahn’s classes. “Perhaps now that we know some Korean cooking, we can make them for our friends who cannot travel here.” Ahn’s classes include instruction on making Korean dishes, but she also teaches classes on making Western foods. She worked at the Magnolia Bakery in New York City, made famous by the TV show “Sex and the City,” and she teaches the art of baking the Magnolia cupcake. Her classes are never larger than six students and cost 50,000 won. “(Ahn) made the class personal to me,” said Vivien Fischinger, another of the chef’s students. “I liked the hands-on approach and the small class size made me more involved in the cooking class.” Ahn has always wanted to share her joy of cooking. “You have to go to a place to taste the food,” she said. “Not many people can travel because of their budget. If I know how to make it, why not teach it. By sharing my recipes, people eating it can feel like they have traveled there also.” To get cooking, contact Ahn at plaisir_g@naver.com or check her out at: http:// blog.naver.com/plaisir_g. 56 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| september 2011

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Food & Drink Sept. 2011

Squid Ink by Paloma Julian

French...er, Spanish Toast on the Mediterranean

he end of summer is near, and 2012 is looming. Before the apocalypse arrives, let’s enjoy a decadent treat. The time of the “torrijas” has come. My holidays, like many expats’, are not very exotic. They consist of going back home and enjoying (or suffering) familiar flavors, family, friends, sights, sunlight. I’ve always thought the sunlight in my home country, Spain, was something special. At home this summer, I experienced an unusual convergence of friend and light. My friend Mariluz (“light” in Spanish) called me and told me that she was going to take me to a new and special restaurant. Was it ever special. The restaurant was Lumine (“light” in Latin), in Tarragona on the Mediterranean. The chef there, Eduardo Cuesta, prepared an awesome menu. My only complaint was that I couldn’t stop eating. Foie gras with fig marmalade and walnuts, scallops cooked in champagne with vegetables, cod with cauliflower cream, steak with Yzaguirre cheese -- the meal was a celebration of the flavors of Southern Spain. But the dessert is what I want to talk about — chocolate-coconut torrijas, with rice-pudding ice cream. It was a long, long time ago when I last had torrijas. I fell in love with the dish all over again at Lumine. Torrijas is peasant food, but is eaten by kings as well. It’s essentially French toast, but we prefer to think of it as a Spanish dish (they were first written about in the 15th century by the Spanish poet Juan del Encina, who said that it was an excellent food for new mamas). Torrijas lends itself to experimentation. Add ingredients to suit your taste, such as cocoa (as Cuesta did), strawberries, or rum. The dish is sweet enough to make a rich dessert. Just be sure to make it before it’s too late.

Torrijas Ingredients: • 12 slices of bread (use a baguette or another thick bread — sandwich bread is too thin) • 1 liter of milk • 3 eggs • 125 grams white sugar • 1 cinnamon stick • 1 vanilla bean or 1 tsp. of vanilla extract • 2 cloves • 1 bay leaf • The Peel of one lemon and one orange • Olive oil • Honey • (Add liquor or liqueur if you like — rum or cointreau are nice) Slowly heat the milk with the cloves, cinnamon, vanilla, the bay leaf and half of the peels. After heating for about ten minutes, let the milk cool. Prepare a syrup by diluting the honey with hot water, and adding the remaining orange and lemon peel and the liquor or liqueur. Soak the bread in the strained milk. Whisk the eggs and then soak the bread in them. Fry the bread on medium heat in abundant olive oil (make sure your oil is hot before you add the bread). When the bread has plenty of color, remove it from the skillet. Place it on paper to absorb extra oil. Serve it with the syrup mixture.

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Restaurant & Bar Directory Bar Bliss Itaewon Exit 1 (Line 6) make the first right. It’s on the corner. www.picturetrail.com/barbliss. Price: 12,000-35,000 won. Contemporary cuisine and highend bar. Great cocktails and patio. Beer O’Clock Head to Exit 1 of Sinchon Station (Line 2) Go behind the Hyundai Department store towards the 7-11. Turn left on the third street up. 2nd floor. English Menu and staff. #:02-333-9733 www. beeroclock.ca. Prices: 8,00024,000 won. Canadian Sports Bar with great wings, burgers, donairs, and pizza. Big Rock Brewery Head out Gangnam Station Exit 7 and make the first right and head up the hill past the GS25. www.bigrockbeer.co.kr. Prices: 5,000-15,000 won. Canadian Brewery with a great Sunday Brunch and good pub fare. Craftworks The nation’s only foreign-owned brewpub specializing in great steaks, inventive vegetarian dishes and, of course, amazing handcrafted beers brewed right here in Korea. Open every day but Mondays from 11 a.m. ‘til 2 a.m. 02-794-2537 HBC Gogi-Jib Out Noksapyeong Exit 2 (Line 6) and walk straight along the street with the kimchi pots. English menu and staff. #:02-796-5528. Nightly bbq specials, generous servings, and open late. Le Quartier Latin Go out Sinchon Station Exit 3 (Line 2) and walk straight until you get to the big church. Make a right and walk about 500 meters. Look for the large French Flag. English Menu and Staff. #:02333-9874. Prices: 4,000-26,000 won. Authentic French Bistro with reasonable prices. Naked Bar and Grill Line 6 Itaewon Station Exit 1 walk straight and make a right at KFC. Naked Bar and Grill is next to B1 on the left. English menu and staff. #:02-794-4225. Prices: 5,000 to 40,000 won. The perfect after party place with great food and drinks. Naked Grill Naked Grill is located at Yongsangu, Hannam Dong 29-21 towards the U.N. Village. English menu and staff. #:02-749-4225. Prices: 4,000-12,000 won. Tacos and homestyle American favorites for eat-in or take-out. Petra Restaurant Kebab House Exit 3 of Noksapyeong Station 60 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| september 2011

(Line 6) and up the overpass. It’s located to the right. English Menu and staff. #:02-790-4433. Prices: 5,000-18,000 won. Authentic Arab food made by a certified chef. Excellent Falafel, hummus, and Sultana style lamb and chicken. Pizza Peel Go out Exit 4 of Itaewon Station and walk past the Rotiboy and make a left into Market Alley. English Menu available — davelauckner@hotmail.com. Itaewon’s Newest Pizza Shop serving fresh pies daily. Roofers Go out Itaewon Station Exit 3 and make a right at the Fire Station. It’s on floor of the building across from the Foreign Food Mart. #02749-2970. An artsy, spacious bar with good food. They have an outside roof that is used for brunch and performances. Rookies Ichon (Line 4) Exit 5 and walk in the direction of Yongsan Station. Pass train tracks to your left. It’ll be on your left. English menu and staff. #:02-792-3383. Price: 4500-22,000 won. A sports bar with creative bar food and burgers. Sanchae House (산채집) Go up around Namsan Mountain from Myeong-dong Road. It is near the Namsan Cable Cars and the restaurant N’Cucina. English menu. #:02-755-8775. Price: 8,000-25,000 won. Savory bossam and fresh leaf bibimbap. Spice Table Go straight out of Exit 2 from Itaewon Station, turn left onto the first street (corner of Helios), Spice Table is on the left (2nd Floor) and across from Los Amigos. English spoken and English Menu Available. #:02796-0509. Price: 7,000-25,000 won (Cuisine), 8,000 won Lunch Special Menu, 40,000-90,000 won (Wine) Stylish Asian food to Itaewon using a fresh and flavorful approach. Wolfhound Go out Itaewon Station Exit 4 and turn left to go down the hill and make the first right. English Spoken and English Menu Available: 02-749-7941. Price 10,000-20,000 won for food. The best Fish-N-Chips and comfort food in an Irish Pub atmosphere. Yaletown 400 meters from Sinchon Subway Exit number 2. Make a left at Beans and Berries. English Menu. #:02-333-1604. Price: 5,000-18,0000 won. Great Pub fare such as poutine, burgers, and nachos. September 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 61

Teams Seoul Saturday Soccer League - Please apply to soccersaturday@hotmail.com and leave your phone contacts to call you for more information. Ice Hockey - Interested in playing with experienced and competitive ice hockey players? Join Korea’s original ex-pat hockey team, the Geckos Glaciers Sunday nights at 8pmin Anyang. Contact Charles at charfull@yahoo.com Ha n db a ll - Tea m Ha n db a ll - O lymp ic Handball - We often organize friendly games against Korean teams during evenings or weekends. Male or female players, beginners, intermediate or advanced players... everybody is welcome! Just email SEB at handballinkorea@ gmail.com or visit www.handballinkorea.org St Pats FC - seoulstpats@gmail.com Gaelic Club - If you are looking for a physical and competitive sport, while also wanting some craic while you are at it, then check out Irish football, aka Gaelic. It is a mixture of soccer, basketball and rugby. Male and female teams meet frequently for training, games and social events. www.seoulgaels.com Touch Rugby - contact seoultouch@gmail.com and more information can be found at touchtagrugby.blogspot.com International Taekwondo club - looking for new members interested in taekwondo and cultural exchange on Sat& Sun 4:30PM ~ 8:30 PM near Konkuk Univ. Email to tm3ym@hotmail.com or visit to http://cafe.daum.net/ arirangtaekwon Korea Ultimate Players Association – If you have been searching for some hot disc action in Korea, come out to play ultimate every Sun with the Korea Ultimate Players Association. Please visit www. koreaultimate.net Disc-Golf in Seoul - Looking for something different to do and want to be more active in Korea? We are always looking for new people to play disc-golf every Saturday. contact discgolf@naver.com The Korea Lacrosse Association would like to involve more non-Koreans, with or without lacrosse experience, to participate in the growing tournaments and leagues. Please contact by emaiil parkpc@lacrosse.or.kr or 02-743-5291 Football Club - Gecko's FC is looking for players, preferably with experience, for the start of the new season. We practice regularly, play games on Sundays and take road trips once or twice a season. Please contact geckosfc@ yahoo.com Crystal Palace Football/Soccer Team – We are recruiting players of all abilities to join our games played in central Seoul. Please contact Alex at harryhowlett@ hotmail.com or 010 3040 6114 Seoul Survivors RFC - Seoul Survivors has been around for over 20 years. We practice regularly and play a variety of different teams in friendlies, competitions and on tours. For more information, please contact Ian at koreanianr@yahoo.co.uk or 016-897-6282 The Seoul Sunday Football League, a competitive amateur expat league, is looking for referees to officiate matches in Seoul and surrounding areas on Sundays. No official qualifications are necessary, but you should have a good knowledge of the game. Pay is 70,000 won per game. Also, if you are interested in playing, then we can also find you a team. Please contact: seoulfootball@ hotmail.com Seoul Sisters Women’s Rugby Club: Looking for new members, both Korean and foreign, to grow the in-house league. No experience is necessary and there are great coaches to get you up to speed quickly. contact seoulsistersrugby@yahoo.com or check out www.ssrfccom Lokomotiv Goyang Football Club: Playing games in both Seoul and Goyang, we are a football team always looking for new members. Please contact lokogoyang@yahoo.co.uk or check www.lokomotiv-goyang. com

Clubs NEW — One Circle Community Meditation: Stressful week? Attend an OCC meditation session to reduce stress, release muscle tension, and ask questions to one of our instructors. Your body and mind deserve NE W — Tarot Card Reading: We have a Tarot Day 4pm~9pm every Thursday at Life cafe near Kyungridan(Itaewon 2dong). Please contact Ciel at luzysal76@hotmail.com / 010-3299-6147 NEW — LSBER Club: Let's Share Bad Experiences in Relationships. We will meet every Tuesday evening at Life cafe. Let's share experiences, learn lessons together and enjoy next relationship! Please contact life_cafe@naver.com / 070-8161-7638 Free Bellydance Classes in English in Itaewon nights and weekends. Over 20 classes a week. Learn an art, awaken your body, make friends, eliminate stress, pamper yourself! http://eshebellydancer.com Bellydance Classes in Seoul Tues nights & Thurs mornings. Belly dance is an energizing, low-impact exercise 62 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| september 2011

Listings

where members can also have fun interacting together. Please contact Dong Wan at: intervie@naver.com Suwon Scuba Club: A dive club close to Osan Air Base and Camp Humphreys, we teach all Padi courses and run regular tours for fun dives to the East Sea. Along with dives, the club has a major social element with outstanding BBQ's and parties on each tour. Please contact Nic at: nichofberg@ yahoo.com, 010 3123 2061 or www.suwonscuba.com I

Kimchi Confessions suitable for men & women of all ages. Reduce stress, improve balance & posture, strengthen & tone muscles, develop grace, reduce weight, and increase self-confidence! bellydancekorea@hotmail.com Korea Latin & Salsa Korea Latin and Salsa welcomes new members of all ages and experience levels for parties, salsa lessons in English and Spanish, trips, friends, and fun. Please visit our website KoreaLatinAndSalsa.com Seoul Artists Network (SAN) have a bi-monthly open mic that takes place at Woodstock in Itaewon on the first and third sundays of each month. www.purevolume.com/ jeremytoombs | www.myspace.com/jeremytoombs Writing Club - Looking to form/join a writing group. Meetings would likely be on the weekends, twice a month. My focus is on short fiction/prose at the moment, but I would be open to non-fiction/longer works as well. email Bryan at scriptingends@gmail.com Lodge Han Yang #1048 the oldest Masonic lodge in Korea welcomes all visiting and returning brethren to attend our regularly scheduled meeting every second and fourth Wednesday. Contact lodgehanyang@hotmail.com for additional information Seoul Fencing Club — Seoul Grand Park in Ichondong. Please go to www.seoulfencing.com or email seoul. fencing.club@gmail.com. The Seoul Book Club, a new book club. We plan to meet once a month read and various works in English and then share and discuss our impressions, all are welcome. Please contact Sean at 010-3648-2861 or stm@iis.or.kr KH Toastmasters is a fun, supportive environment to learn public speaking and leadership skills in English. Our group is a dynamic mix of foreigners and Koreans, and we meet 8pm every Tuesday in Hyehwa. Guests always welcome. A map of our meeting location can be found at: khtoastmasters. com Southside Hash House Harriers: Do you like to walk, run and drink beer? Well then, come and join the Seoul branch of this world-wide club that meets in a different location south of the Han River each Sunday at 11:00am. All levels of fitness are welcome, just bring along your sneakers and a sense of humor! Please contact Countess at smcrae77@yahoo.com Section 8 Gaming: we meet Sundays in the Seoul area to play a variety of pen and paper role playing games, including Dungeons and Dragons. Contact section8gaming@ gmail.com. Toastmasters International, every Thursday Night, near GyeongBuk Palace Subway station, for more information visit the following websites: www.toastmasters. org www.seoultmclub.net or Contact us at: profirving2001@ yahoo.com Texas Hold Em in Ilsan - Weekly Hold Em throw down at cool bar in La Festa, Ilsan Tues & Thurs around 10pm & Sundays 7pm. Contact mrleon29@gmail.com I'm all-in. May the flop be with you! Interested in Theatre? Seoul Players is an all-volunteer community theatre group which does two English language shows a year. For more info, please email seoulplayers@gmail.com Interested in Surfing? There are trips throughout the winter to discover Korea’s secret spots and great waves. Please contact Nathan or Jack at Seoulboardriders@ hotmail.com Bazzer’s Buddies Dog Walking Club Namsan, Han River and other outdoor areas around Seoul. A fun way to get out on a Sunday afternoon and meet new friends. Send an email to www.bazzerdog.com to find out when and where we will meet.

The Original Seoul Toastmasters Club - Are you interested in joining a club of professionals working to develop communication and leadership skills? Meet new friends, both Korean and foreign, at the original Seoul Toastmasters Club. Please contact Joohun Park at jhpamc@hanmail.net and 011 9279 8299 or visit www.seoultmclub.net Seoul PMS H3 – This is a running club for women that is also part of the Hash House Harriers. We meet one Saturday afternoon a month and are looking for other women who like to run, walk, drink and/or socialize. Contact msthanx4nothin@gmail.com or visit w w w. myspace.com/seoul_pms_h3 Karaoke Club - Join a karaoke club in Seoul with people who love to sing, whether you sound like Frank Sinatra or Frankenstein! We meet once a month. Please contact seoulsing@gmail.com Are you a vegetarian or vegan in Korea? The Seoul Veggie Club meets twice a month to check out veggiefriendly restaurants and enjoy picnics. Koreans, foreigners, vegetarians and non-vegetarians are all welcome. "Facebook group Seoul veggie club" MEETinSEOUL – Come hang out with a large free, all-volunteer social group. There are no membership fees, just pay for your own cost of the events (movies, dinners etc). www.meetin.org/city/MEETinSEOUL/ Yongsan Kimchi Hash House Harriers - If you enjoy running, walking and trekking throughout Seoul as well as drinking beer, then come join us every Saturday at 10 a.m. For more information, please visit www.freewebs.com/ ykhhh (then go to "hareline") or malgosia02@yahoo.com Hiking Club – The International Hikers Club meets every Sat. For more information, please contact sihclub@ gmail.com Mostly Over 40 – This club meets for lunch on Sunday a month and, as the name depicts, consists of people who are mostly over 40. For more information, contact mostlyover40@yahoogroups.com CWG, ‘Conversations with God,’ discussion and study group is open for anyone who is interested in talking about the themes and implications of this book. Contact markyansen@yahoo.com or 011 9990 4291 Artists – We are interested in starting an artists’ collective in Seoul. Are you a visual artist interested in taking part in a group exhibition? Contact seoulcreative@yahoo. comForeigner/Korean Friendship Club: Our purpose is to meet at a bar on Saturdays to meet new people, introduce new cultures, share thoughts and have fun. Contact yupggiklub@hotmail.com or check out seoulcircle.com Fusion Art: Seeking members involved in various arts (painting, drawing, illustration, sculpture, photos and more) for regular meetings and exhibitions to share information about colors and opinions. Please contact bakerycorner@ yahoo.co.kr, chubbyhubby@hanmail.net or 010-6423-6037 Korean Movie Club: With English subtitles, people are now able to enjoy and understand recent Korean (and some non-Korean) movies and dramas in front of a 120-inch screen. The club is located just a minute from Sinchon Station. Please contact koreanmovieclub@yahoo.com or www.geocities.com/koreanmovieclub Seoul Stitch ‘n Bitch: This club has a crafting get-together the 1st and 3rd Sunday of every month in Haebangchon, Seoul, Please contact seoulsnb@gmail.com or check www.seoulsnb.blogspot.com Sinchon Toastmasters Club: Looking for new members, both Korean & foreign, wanting to improve their public speaking and leadership skills in an atmosphere

Horoscope

email:

info@groovekorea.com

International Clubs

Investor & Real Estate Club Meetings - Every Monday @ Watts On Tap. Discussions on international dating, relationships, investments. Discuss investments with ROI higher than KOSPI average. Anyone with valuable or critical comments wins cash & prizes! Contact 010-5552-5568 Royal Asiatic Society (RAS) – This non-profit organization offers lectures about Korea’s history and culture, while also offering tours to various locations around the country. Please contact raskb@kornet.net or visit www. raskb.com The American Women's Club (AWC) now meets at the Sofitel Ambassador Hotel at 9:30 AM on the first Tuesday of each month. www.awckorea.org. The Australia & New Zealand Assocation (ANZA) meets at the Grand Hyatt Hotel at 9:30AM on the third Tues of the month. For more information, please visit www.anzakorea.com or events@anzakorea.com The British Association of Seoul (BASS) meets at the Seoul Club from 10 AM to Noon on the fourth Tues of the month. For more information, please contact basseoul@ yahoo.co.uk The Canadian Women’s Club (CWC) meets the second Tues of the month & also participate in a group activity the fourth Wed of the month. For more information, contact sujaybee@yahoo.com Club Italia hosts a lunch every Sun at 1 PM at the Franciscan School in Hannam-dong. The lunch costs KRW 15,000 and everyone is welcome. For more information, please visit www.clubitalia.or.kr Career Women in Korea (CWIK) at the New Seoul Hotel on the third Wed evening of the month. For more information, please visit www.cwik21.com or contact career_women_in_korea@yahoo.com. The Seoul Intl. Women’s Association (SIWA) meets at the Sofitel Ambassador Hotel at 9:30 AM on the third Wed of the month. For more information, please visit www.siwapage.com Overseas Chinese Women’s Club (OCWC) meets monthly and is open to all women who would like to make new friends, enjoy good food and learn about Chinese culture. Chinese is spoken, but interpretation is available. For more information, please visit our website at ocwckr. spaces.live.com or contact ocwckr@hotmail.com

Announcements NEW — One Circle Community Events (Saturday, Sept. 24): We're excited to announce September's guest speaker, Daniel Gray. Daniel has taken the success of his blog (www.seouleats.com) and turned it into a successful business. These days his company, O'ngo Food Communications, is offering Korean cooking classes and restaurant tours to travelers to Seoul. For more information visit www. onecirclecommunity.org or call 010-7400-4038 ARNIS/KALI: Q: What should a Korean fan of Filipino martial arts who can’t find many like-minded Koreans do? A: Take up English and work with expats. Free 90-minute session weekly between Seoul Station & Sookmyung Station. E-mail ranger1231@gmail.com Navah Bellydance Company - Looking for performers with dance experience or who are willing to train with Eshe for events in and out of Seoul. eshebellydancer@ hotmail.com The Ang Dating Daan Korea Chapter conducts free Bible Study and distributes DVDs of Bible Expositions of the only sensible preacher in our time — Brother Eli Soriano. If you want free copies of Bible Expositions and hear free Bible Study, please call 010-5737-2561 / 010-3004-0817 Amnesty G48 is an of ficial group of Amnest y International Korea. This group is made up of both Korean and foreign volunteers who actively take part in the movement to promote and protect human rights for all people around the world. E-mail Tom for further details @ amnestyseoul@gmail.com. All Native English Speakers, Kyopos, and Koreans. Proficient in English are welcome to join our weekly bible study/fellowship meetup held every saturday at 3 pm. We seek to delve deeply into scripture. Contact Info. 011-359-1317 Bible Study Enthusiasts - Weekly Bible study for Native English Speakers. We are having a weekly Bible Study every Saturday, at 7:30 PM. Everyone is welcome! Call me at 011-359-1317 or email homechurch-314@meetup.com or homechurch.meetup.com/314/ for further information. Seoul Global Center - Seoul Help Center for foreigners has been renamed and relocated to the Korea Press Foundation Building floor.

September 2011

Aries Work projects move forward and gain momentum in September, dear Aries. You're especially, busy and finding ways to eliminate waste so that you're more productive. Being busy actually feels good, and this is a strong month for getting a whole lot accomplished. While you may have been "living in the past" on a romantic level in August, this month you're looking forward. Personal appeal skyrockets the 23-24. Answers to relationship questions can come on the 27-30th, when you're getting serious about your future. Some of you could also begin a new partnership at this time.

Taurus The New Moon at the end of August set the tone for the first four weeks of September, dear Taurus, and it's a highly creative, romantic, and fun theme! Others are finding you especially appealing, and you are making time for recreation. You could be feeling especially amorous. Creative Bulls will find plenty of inspiration. Recently, there has been much focus on the past in your love life, but September brings forward-looking energy to your relationships. Home life is improving this month. In the last few days of September, there comes a need to get serious about your work and health.

Gemini September is likely to be a more straightforward month for you, dear Gemini. Financial matters clear up, and work matters move forward. An important culmination of a professional matter can occur around the 12th, when recognition may be forthcoming. Family and domestic life assume more importance than usual. By mid-month, spending habits become more moderate, and security is more important to you. You come out of your shell on the 23rd, although the last week of September brings serious energy to a romance or creative project. Answers can come now.

Cancer September is likely to be an especially busy month for you, dear Cancer, and while you can feel pulled in a number of directions, you manage to stay on top of things. There are fewer problems with transportation and communication than there were in August, and this helps you to get through your days much easier. The 23-24th is strong for money earned from your profession, as well as for recognition for your talents. The last three days of the month bring the need to get serious about your family and domestic life.

Leo Emotions settle and September begins with a sense of calm, dear Leo. If you have been waiting for a loan, financial aid, mortgage, or other settlement, this is the month when you're likely to get the good news. Money is a big focus this month, and you are in a good position to improve your lot in life. Love becomes more about communication and sharing the little things with a special someone after the 14th. After the 18th, the pace of your life picks up, and you have the energy to move mountains. The 23-24th can bring a partnership to life and possibly news of a trip.

Virgo More clarity and a stronger sense of purpose are with you this month, dear Virgo. Money matters tend to be strong, although there can be a need to get serious about your finances towards the end of September. It's important that you get all of your paperwork into order. Around the time of the Full Moon on the 12th, a relationship matter can come to light. Your powers of attraction are especially strong until the 14th with loving Venus in your sign, and your persuasive abilities powerful from the 9-25th.

Libra Work done in relative solitude is your best bet this month, dear Libra, although the last week of September brings more outgoing energy and a stronger desire to mingle. Friendships become especially lively. Some of you will be making a new, very positive connection with a helpful person. Strains in your close relationships can be part of the picture towards month's end. Someone could be questioning your character. Challenges can be overcome, however, and bonds can be strengthened, especially with charming Venus in your sign from the 14th forward. Personal charisma can win the day.

Scorpio Your social life animates this month, dear Scorpio, and your ability to persuade others is stronger than ever. The Full Moon on the 12th can raise the temperature in a romance. Your career once again heats up from the 18th forward - you are large and in charge. Recognition for your least acknowledged talents is forthcoming around the 23-24th. Those Scorpios looking for work can have attractive job offers then. While your working life continues to keep you on your toes through to the end of the month and into October, you begin to require quality personal down time and solitude in the last week of September.

Sagitarius This is one of the more public and accountable periods of the year for you, dear Sagittarius. Fortunately, you are coming across in an especially charming light. New directions in your career are in store for you, although they have been in the works for the last six months. While career matters take center stage, there is plenty of room in your life for recreation, enjoyment of friends, and even a spot of adventure. A family member demands special attention around the 12th. Don't pass up on any invites you might receive around the 23-24th, when opportunities to expand your horizons can arise.

Capricorn You are expressing the more adventurous, fun-loving side of your personality in September, dear Capricorn, although in the last week of the month, you are ready to prove your worth. Professional and public matters demand your attention, and it would be wise to come across as responsible and competent as you can. Work pressures and reputation matters can be challenging at that time, and it's your job to rise above them. Family really comes through for you around the 2324th. Students are likely to enjoy much success and popularity this month.

Aquarius Good energy for work is with you all month, dear Aquarius. Your hard work pays off, but be sure to pace yourself so that you don't tire yourself out (and others too!). You're in a better position to attract money to you, and good news about your finances can arrive around the 12th. Relationships heat up in September, especially after the 18th. Single Aquarians might meet someone special around the 2324th, and those of you who are already partnered can open up the lines of communication and feel that they're really moving forward.

Pisces Relationships are revived in September, dear Pisces. While a significant other can seem to have the upper hand this month, you're not inclined to keep score. Instead, you are enjoying the improvements. The Full Moon in your sign on the 12th heightens emotions and increases your need for self-expression. You might make an emotional declaration around this time. The 23-24th can bring good news along practical lines, particularly regarding money and work, but it might also have to do with health. You're making the right connections at this time. You'll need to get serious about a financial or emotional commitment in the last week of September. September 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 63

Medical & Health Info Pediatrics Serim Pediatrics 02-544-0234 Apgujung, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Subway line #3. Apgujung stn. Exit 4 Seran Family Medicine Clinic 02-2642-5975 Mok-dong, Yangcheon-gu, Seoul Subway line #5. Omokgyo stn. Exit 2.

Cardiology / Heart Specialist Dr.Simon Lee Heart Clinic 02-543-0072 Chungdam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Ophthalmologist BS Eye Center 02-519-8013 Gangnam Station, Seoul Gangnam stn. Exit 5 Seer & Partner Eye Institute 02-511-0567 Apgujung, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Dream Eye Center Myeong-dong Center 02-779-7888 Gangnam stn. Center 02-554-8400 Obstetrics Cheil Women’s Healthcare Center 02-2000-7119 (Emergency Room) 02-2000-7062 Mukjeong-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul CHA hospital 02-3468-3000 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Miz Medi Hospital 02-3467-3741 Daechi-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Dermatologists TengTeng Skin Clinic 02-337-4066 Sinsa-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Subway line #3, Sinsa stn. Exit 2 Hushu Skin Clinic 02-519-8013 Apgujung, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Subway line #3, Apgujung stn. Exit 3 Nova Skin Clinic 02-563-7977 64 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| september 2011

Gangnam Stn. Subway line #2, Gangnam stn. Exit 8 Dentists Yonsei Miplus Dental Clinic Hongdae Clinic 02-3141-0028 Sinsa-dong Clinic 02-3141-0028 SMart Dental Clinic 02-517-6278 Apgujung, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Subway line#3, Apgujung stn. Exit 4 UpennIvy Dental Clinic 02-797-7784 Ichon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul Hushu Dental Clinic 02-519-8013 Chiropractors Create Wellness Center 02-798-1446 Itaewon, Seoul SKY Wellness Center 02-749-4849 Itaewon, Seoul

Oriental Medicine Jaseng Hospital of Oriental Medicine 02-3218-2167 Apgujung, Gangnam-gu, Seoul INI Oriental Medicine 02-824-0075 Sangdo-dong, Dongjak-gu, Seoul Subway line #7, Soongsil Univ. stn. Exit 3 massage Healing Hands 010-3158-5572 / 02-20718090 Itaewon, Seoul Ophthalmologist Samsung Medical Center 02-3410-0200 / 02-34100226 Emergency 02-3410-2060 Ilwon-dong, Gangnam-gu, Seoul Yonsei University Severance Hospital 02-2228-5800 / 010-99480983 Yonsei Univ., Seoul Asan Medical Center 02-3010-5001 Poongnap-dong, Songpa-gu

Dear Michelle: Banking Advice for

Foreigners in Korea

Submit your banking questions to: farnsworth@shinhan.com

Dear Michelle, Can my spouse and I open a joint account? — For Love and Money Dear For Love and Money, Not really. In Korea, we have the "Korean Real Name Law" which mandates that many bank transactions be done in person that can normally be done on the phone, by fax, or online in other countries. This is a federal regulation that must be followed by every Korean bank. This same Korean Real Name Law requires that every account be opened in only one person’s name. Therefore, joint accounts do not exist in Korea – at least not in the way we might be used to back home. There is actually only one kind of joint account that is possible to open in Korea. If you open this account though, both parties must visit the bank in person to do every single type of transaction including just basic cash withdrawal and deposits. It is not even possible to get an ATM card for this account because every transaction requires that both account holders be present to sign the forms in person at the bank. So, “why would anyone ever open this type of account?” you might ask. Well, it is not the usual way for a couple to manage their funds, but it may be used by some informal associations in order to maintain accountability. With two people responsible for every single account transaction, fraud may be less likely. But, back to your question. Most couples choose to have just one person in the couple be the primary account holder who opens an account. Then, the spouse (and / or other family members) of the primary account holder can be issued an extra family check card that allows limited access to the account. The family check card holder can make only basic transactions though, including ATM withdrawals and purchases at retailers. In this case though, only the primary account holder will be able to make other types of transactions such as remitting money overseas or closing the account. If the primary account holder is eligible for a credit card, additional family credit cards can be issued to the family members as well. Although it is a touchy subject, it is worth mentioning that a joint account can create difficulties for the non-primary account holder in the event that the couple breaks up. In this situation, the primary account holder has the power to cancel the family check cards and credit cards leaving the spouse with absolutely no recourse to access the account. Please keep this in mind. Best wishes,

Michelle “Dear Michelle: Banking Advice for Foreigners in Korea” is a monthly column written by Michelle Farnsworth. Michelle is a nine-year resident of Korea and is currently the Foreign Client Relationship Manager in the Shinhan Bank Foreign Customer Department. Please visit “Shinhan Bank Seoul Global Center” on Facebook for more information. Please note that the banking information provided in this column is based on Shinhan Bank policies and may not be applicable to all banks in Korea. Michelle Farnsworth Foreign Client Relationship Manager Shinhan Bank Foreign Customer Department 19F, 120 Taepyung-ro 2-Ga Jung-gu Seoul 100-102 Korea

Tel: 02-2151-2874 Fax: 02-2151-2878 Mob: 010-4788-1991 Email: farnsworth@shinhan.com Web: www.shinhan.com/en Facebook: www.facebook.com/ShinhanBank LinkedIn: http://kr.linkedin.com/in/ShinhanBank Twitter: www.twitter.com/ShinhanBankENG September 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 65

Konglish of the Month The winner receives a food or entertainment voucher worth 50,000 won Please email your entries to: submissions@groovekorea.com

WINNER â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Mark Von Hofe

Crossword

61 Inventory unit 62 Snakelike fish 63 Cubicle furnishing 64 Crazy

Across

1 Aid a felon 5 1806 victory for Napoleon 9 Gets on 13 Completely demolish 14 More or less 16 Hudson Bay tribe 17 Shabby 19 Limerick's location 20 Posture 21 Dairy cattle breed 23 Verdi work 25 Doff 26 Pennants 29 Endurance 31 Traditional knowledge 32 Sudden start 33 Fight sites

Down

36 Computer key 37 Frolic 39 Dernier __ 40 Chinese exercises 42 Lodge member 43 Get better 44 Italian car 46 Women's magazine, briefly 47 Ancient galley 48 Autocrat of old 50 Going back 52 Lightweight hat 56 Inter __ 57 Leviathan 59 Small bottle 60 Thick-skinned mammal

66 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| september 2011

1 Liberal pursuits 2 Thai tender 3 Old Testament book 4 In the minority? 5 World-weary 6 A drop in the ocean? 7 Shipbuilder of note 8 Dawn goddess 9 Polish remover 10 Grounds for complaint 11 Frightfully strange 12 Spotted 15 Skier's turn 18 ___ and Galatea (Handel work) 22 Smile smugly 24 Wan 26 Lacking fizz 27 "Copacabana" showgirl 28 Synthetic 30 President before Polk 32 Brief encounter 34 Composer Khachaturian 35 Farm structure 37 Fragment 38 Got off 41 Breakfast foods 43 Interposes 45 Epic of a wanderer 46 "The Godfather" co-star 47 Prove false 49 Ghost 50 Glowing review 51 Yawn 53 Aleutian island 54 Rendezvous 55 Treaty subject 58 UK legislators

sudoku

The aim of the puzzle is to insert numbers in the boxes to satisfy only one condition: each row, column and 3x3 box must contain one of each digit from 1-9. Theres is a unique solution, which can be found by logical thinking.

September 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 67

Pic of the Month 1st Place

John MacLeod "Summer Trails" For me, summer is all about enjoying the outdoors. Even in dense urban areas like Seoul, there's always another bike trail to explore on an early morning ride.

Theme: Summer

The Groove spc Challenge The SPC is an online community of expats in Korea who are interested in learning about and discussing the art of photography. But ‘Seoul Photo Club’ is a bit of a misnomer — membership is free to anyone, anywhere in Korea. Together with Groove Korea we run the photo competition. Each month, a themed challenge is announced in Groove Korea and at the SPC. Past themes include such topics as Repetition, The Sun and Spring Portrait. Just submit your interpretation at the SPC or via email to have a shot at having your pic published here in Groove Korea and winning the monthly prize. You must provide your name and contact details plus a 50-150 word description telling us the what/ where/when of the photo. Entries must be at least 2,000 pixels on the longest side and 300dpi to meet printing requirements, and be taken no more than two weeks prior to the announcement of the challenge.

2nd Place

Carly Cline "Rain Check" When summer comes around, many people think of water parks. Korea is no different, but there’s no denying that in Korea, summer also comes with a friend: monsoon. The water park in this picture is usually bustling with life and full of colorful umbrellas, even on slightly rainy days, but on this particular day it was closed down, due to its location right next to the Han River, which was flooding due to extremely heavy rains. The rain that day flooded subway stations, caused landslides, and closed this park, along with many other places. I snapped this shot quickly as the subway train I was riding crossed the Han and passed the park, during a lull in the storm

For further info, visit the Seoul Photo Club on Flickr www.flickr.com/groups/seoulphotoclub

The winner will receive a food or entertainment voucher worth 50,000 won.

October's Challenge: 'Motion Blur" 68 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| september 2011

3rd Place

Paul Morris "Summer Hat" Summer is a good season for kids. While all the adults are complaining about how hot it is, kids reap the benefits of the summer vacation. This shot was taken on a picnic in between showers of rain and I think captures perfectly the childish joy we all used to feel when going on a summer outing.

September 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 69

ITAEWON

Bungalow Lounge — 02-793-2344 This bar and restaurant sets the standards of unique excellence to higher levels - decked out with bamboo, sand, pools, swings, a fireplace and more. Chiropractic Clinic — 02-798-1446 American and Australian trained, doctors are fluent in English, Spanish & Korean. copacabana — 02-796-1660 Come to COPACABANA where a mere 29,000 won gets you all-you-can-eat of the best Brazilian barbeque and buffet in Korea. Craftworks — 02-794-2537 The nation’s only foreign-owned brewpub specializing in great steaks, inventive vegetarian dishes and, of course, amazing handcrafted beers brewed right here in Korea. Open every day but Mondays from 11 a.m. ‘til 2 a.m.

HBC/KYUNGRIDAN

Don Valley — 02-796-2384 Conveniently located in the heart of Itaewon, this spacious restaurant accommodates 120 guests for delicious dinners and large parties. Open 24 hours everyday, it specializes in “Korean BBQ Done Right” - grilled beef ribs, bulgogi and bibimbap as well as many others. JONNY DUMPLING — 02-790-8830 Enjoy different styles of healthy, handmade dumplings made fresh everyday. Meat as well as vegetarian dumplings are available. LA CIGALE MONTMARTRE — 02-796-1244 Contemporary French cuisine in cozy and intimate surroundings.with a classy yet casual feel, it has a variety of food which includes a range of mussels. Its terrace brings an outdoor feel yet warm & dry comfort to accommodate the weather. LA PLANCHA — 02-790-0063 Spanish grill restaurant includes combination platters along with al la carte side dishes. Feast inside in the warm and cozy atmosphere or sit out on the plant covered terrace. LOCO LOCA — 02-796-1606 Enjoy Salsa music and dancing in the vibrant atmosphere. Freshly baked pizzas with Latino flavors and the very best South American wines will be served. MARAKECH NIGHT — 02-795-9441 Moroccan & Arabic restaurant offering authentic dishes, atmosphere and music. Wine, beer, juices and yogurt drinks are also available. Enjoy flavored tobacco from traditional shisha pipe. McDonald’s — 02-790-6413 Open 24 hours with breakfast served from 5 – 11 a.m. Panchos — 02-792-4746 A Mexican bar with darts, pool, television and a wide selection of music. A spacious setting with big windows overlooking Itaewon’s main street. Queen Queen welcomes ALL people for who they are and creates an open environment where different people from various backgrounds can cross barriers and unite as one community while having the time of their lives in the ultimate party kingdom!

HONGDAE

SKY Chiropractic & Massage — 02-749-4849 US trained and certified chiropractors and massage therapists. SKY Wellness Center integrates chiropractic and massage to correct your body’s imbalances and achieve optimum health and wellness.

TMAS — 02-796-7976 Total Martial Arts System. Designed for FOREIGNERS and lessons in English. learn true martial arts, training and spending time together like a family. Unique Travel — 02-792-0606 A travel agency in the heart of Itaewon where English, Japanese and Korean are spoken. Wolfhound Irish Pub — 02-749-7971 This two storey Irish pub has a wide variety of imported beers, exceptional food and a great atmosphere. Guinness and Kilkenny on tap. 70 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| september 2011

September 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 69

JARASUM INTL. JAZZ FESTIVAL

INTERVIEW

Freddy Cole Quartet

INTERVIEW

Looks Forward to Korea

A Peak into the World of

Jangeun Bae By Matthew Lamers

By Maxwell Coll Grammy-nominee Freddy Cole’s soothing baritone and exceptional feel for the swing of American standards has led the Chicago-born musician to the most well-known venues throughout the world. The New York Times went so far as to call Cole the “most maturely expressive male jazz singer of his generation, if not the best alive.” The 80-year-old musician will be attending the Jarasum International Jazz Festival this fall, marking Cole’s first visit to the Korean Peninsula. “I haven’t been to Korea, so I’m hoping the jazz scene is a good one,” Cole said in an interview with Groove Korea. “Things go very well for us in Japan, and the Great American Songbook is generally accepted everywhere.” The pianist and singer is the younger brother of Nat “King” Cole, one of the most beloved musicians in the genre’s history who

16 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| september 2011

passed away in 1965. The family grew up in Chicago, where artists like Duke Ellington, Count Basie and Lionel Hampton would visit the Cole’s house and would leave a lasting impression on Cole and his four siblings. Billy Eckstine has also been cited as a major influence on the musician’s career. Cole’s latest Grammy-nominated album, “Freddy Cole Sings Mr. B,” is a celebration of the two jazz artists’ friendship and includes some of Eckstine’s signature songs like “Tender is the Night” and “Jelly, Jelly.” Cole talked about how his band has been able to stick together for so many years. “We have been traveling internationally for many, many years. Each of us brings something unique to the musical mix,” said Cole. “My drummer Curtis Boyd has been with me for over a decade and the ‘young cats.’ Elias Bailey on bass and Randy Napoleon on guitar - who was with Michael Bublé before he joined my group - have been with me for quite some years now. We enjoy each other’s company musically and personally. “We are having a lot of fun on the road and respect each other as musicians and hu-

man beings, no matter of generation. That is (how) we continue to do what we do and enjoy it so much.” After attending the Roosevelt Institute during his late teenage years, Cole moved with his family to New York in 1951, where he enrolled in the Juilliard School of Music. Jazz legends like John Lewis, Oscar Peterson and Teddy Wilson contributed to this vibrant artistic environment. “My academic background has had a great deal of influence on my career,” Cole said. “But neither Chicago nor New York has had a greater influence on my sound. I always have just made sure that I am myself – no matter what.” For the past few decades, Cole has toured from South America to Europe to the Far East with a range of accompanying musicians. He will perform in Seoul with guitarist Randy Napoleon, drummer Curtis Boyd and bassist Elias Bailey. I have shared the stage with many artists, and it has been a delight to play with all of them

Jangeun Bae’s long been a mainstay in Korean jazz circles. She is also among an exclusive group of Korean jazz musicians who can claim to have performed with some of the best performers in the world. For her most recent album, “Is this all the love you have,” she collaborated with Korean jazz guitarist Jean Oh (Oh Jung-su; Sony Music Korea, July 2011). She has also worked with Greg Osby, Adam Teixeira, and Justin Gray in the studio. Bae is a veteran on the international stage, having toured the U.S., Canada, Europe and East Asia extensively. She said playing with Greg Osby at the Toronto Jazz Festival “was an amazing experience.” She even counts Norah Jones as a close friend. The 36-year-old Seoulite is scheduled to hit the stage at the Jarasum International Jazz Festival on Oct. 2 at 3 p.m.

When is the earliest in your life that you wanted to be a musician? Who inspired you? I always wanted to be a pianist. I loved playing piano when I was little. I don’t even remember when I started. My mother was a classical piano major at Yonsei University, and also earned a masters. She loved to

play and listen to jazz. She used to play Errol Garner’s “Misty,” Michel LeGran’s “Brian’s Song,” the Beatles’ “Yesterday,” and so on. I thought that was real cool. Yes, she is my inspiration.

What kind of music touches you? Korean folk songs or traditional Korean children’s music. When my college friend, the great and famous Norah Jones first moved to New York, she had a jazz/country band. I was very surprised and when I visited her there, I asked her about it. “Do you like country music?” I asked. She told me that being from Texas, she grew up with it and loves it. Yeah. That taught me a lot. I’m from Korea. That’s why I love Korean songs. Thanks, Norah.

Where do you find inspiration? My son. I have a 16-month-old boy. He is the biggest inspiration for my music and life. My newest album, “Is this all the love you have,” is a collaboration with Korean jazz guitarist Jean Oh (Oh Jung-su; Sony Music Korea, July 2011). He is a father of two. Our album is full of musical ideas that we got from babies. I haven’t really been inspired by other musicians recently. Of course, I do like listening and getting musical ideas from other musicians.

How did you go about making the album? I had two albums out this year. I recorded sessions with Greg Osby, Adam Teixeira, and Justin Gray at that time. We were conducting a Korean tour and I was studying at a master’s class. Good times. We did everything in one day, including rehearsal, camera tests, camera shooting and recording. Very intense, but so much fun.

What are some similarities between your music and you as a person?

Optimism, passion, honesty.

What was your big break? It hasn’t happened, yet. It will happen!

Have you ever performed overseas? Surprises, disappointments, etc. I have had so many concerts outside Korea. Well, I lived in the United States from 1997 to 2005. During that time, I had started to play in Europe and Canada. Since I moved back to Korea in 2006, I have traveled to perform in the U.S. and Canada once or twice a year. I feel very lucky. I had always dreamt of performing outside of Korea. Since 2009, I have belonged to the great jazz legend Greg Osby’s label Inner Circle Music. I recently performed at the Toronto Jazz Festival with Greg Osby. It was amazing. And from 2007 I have been touring East Asia, in Taiwan and Japan.

Can you tell us about someone you’ve enjoyed playing with? Cutis Fuller, a legendary trombone player. I met him when I won Betty Carter's Jazz Ahead 2004 in The Kennedy Center, Washington D.C. An amazing player. Really humble and modest. The most beautiful person I’ve ever met.

What was the last concert you went to? Keith Jarrett’s solo concert in Seoul. He came to Korea this June.

Can you give our readers a preview of what you’re planning for the jazz festival? This show will be the best of the JB Trio’s show. We will play some rock, too. That’s all I can say. Please, come and see us at Jarasum. To find out more about Jangeun Bae, go to www. jbfunkyjazz.com. Follow her on Twitter @jbfunkyjazz. Inner Circle Music can be reached through their website, www.innercirclemusic.com.

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Who made you what you are today?

JARASUM INTL. JAZZ FESTIVAL

Who I am is in fact a sum of all the experiences I’ve had in my personal and my musical life – there are so many events and people that have made a difference to me. I very much enjoyed my time studying in Rotterdam as well as in New York though – but I feel as though I’m always learning, no matter where I am.

More recently, who would you say is the biggest influence on your music? And how? Oh my – there are so many, of course Miles Davis and Keith Jarrett, but also Igor Stravinsky and Jon Hassell. It’s hard to pinpoint just one. What you listen to on a regular basis and what you are exposed to can make a deep impact on your own musical awareness. My music has a broad horizon.

Can you identify similarities between you as a person and your music? Oh boy! I’ve learned a lot about myself as a person during the course of my musical career. When I play music, I am living in the moment, there is just now, and that feeling of now also flows over and helps me in my personal life.

What’s the hardest thing you’ve had to overcome in your career? How did you do it? Well, I try to deal with difficult and unpleasant things and then forget about them as soon as possible. One time, I recall I was on stage with someone who was playing against me and not with me – that is really difficult, when you can’t connect with a fellow performer, then you can’t play, it doesn’t flow. I’m happy to say that rarely happens in my life.

INTERVIEW

Eric Vloeimans

On the ‘Make-Believe Ladder of Success’ 14 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| september 2011

You’re known as one of Europe's best trumpet players. After all the success you have achieved, what’s left to accomplish? For me, it’s not about success, or what others consider to be success – it’s development. I am always trying to develop myself, to learn more, contribute more – I think it’s a mistake to try to climb up a make-believe ladder of ‘success’. It might be leaning against the wrong fence.

Can you tell me about the process of making your most recent album? Oh that was fun – I’d invited the Gatecrash musicians to my little farm in France for several days, and asked them also to write for the band. The atmosphere and the inspiration was wonderful, the food and wine was good and then the music was really happening.

You’ve performed with international stars like Lars Danielsson, Mercer Ellington and Philippe Catherine to name just a few. Who do you have the most fun playing with? Joey Baron, my big hero on drums, was one of the musicians on my “Bitches and Fairy Tales” album we recorded in New York. I was really nervous and had butterflies in my stomach when I got there – imagine people like Marc Johnson, John Taylor, Joey Baron – and we only had six hours to make the entire record. But when I got there, Joey said to me – he was so friendly and welcoming, “Hey! you must be Eric!” and suddenly all my nervosity melted away. At one point, I’d done a solo on “Midnight Child” and then John Taylor played a solo – and I realised that these great musicians, whom I had only just met and up to

then had only heard on records, these artists were playing my music. I just had to cry right then and there.

Have you been to Korea before? What are you looking forward to? No, not me – but our drummer Jasper van Hulten has been to Korea before with the Wouter Hamel Band, and he tells us marvellous stories about how warm the Korean audience is and what a great reception musicians receive. I am also very much looking forward to dinner. I love Korean food!

What were the last 5 songs you listened to on your MP3 player? • • • • •

“Blurring the Lines” by Minsarah “The Zoo is Far” by the Christian Wallumbrod “Weihnachtsoratorium” by J.S. Bach, performed by the Combattimento Consort “Marifaa Street” by Jon Hassell “Clifford Brown with Strings”

What was the last concert you went to? I heard Rudesh Mahanthappa at the North Sea Jazz Festival, where I was also playing. Wow!

Can you give our readers a sneak preview of what you’re planning for the Jarasum Jazz Festival? (Laughs) I’m definitely going to take them on a great musical ride. We’ll be doing some pieces from our last albums, but also have some new material. A good time will be had by all, and that isn’t giving away any secrets. We are really excited about playing at Jarasum.

By Matthew Lamers Winner of the prestigious Dutch jazz prize, the VPRO/Boy Edgar Award, in 2003, Eric Vloeimans will appear at this year’s Jarasum International Jazz Festival in early October with his quartet Gatecrash. They have long been known not only for their talent, but also for breaking boundaries. In an interview with Groove Korea, Vloeimans spoke candidly on a life in the jazz industry, his love of Korean food and his plans to take concert goers “on a great musical ride” when he hits the Jarasum stage.

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JARASUM INTL. JAZZ FESTIVAL

INTERVIEW

Eli Degibri:

A Legend in the Making INTERVIEW

By Summer Walker Jarasum Jazz Festival will host a slew of acclaimed Korean and International jazz musicians. There is one artist in particular that concertgoers should be sure to catch Israeli-born and New York-raised saxophonist and composer Eli Degibri hits the stage on Oct. 3. At age 18, Degibri packed his bags and moved from Israel to New York. Soon after, he was chosen to attend the the Thelonious Monk Institute of Jazz, where six people are chosen as an ensemble to take part in a two-year program with noteworthy teachers. “Every musician that was still alive came to teach us ... for a jazz musician, it was a dream come true.” He literally learned from legends. “The two years opened my mind and prepared my soul.” That’s how he met Herbie Hancock. “I grew up listening to Miles Davis, so I wanted to play with Herbie Hancock,” he said. Hancock had been part of Davis’ legendary Second Great Quintet. After graduation, Hancock — pianist and bandleader — took Degibri on tour. He was with Hancock for two-and-a-half years. It was hard for the saxophone player to express what it was like being on stage with the legend. Although he described it as “thrilling,” Degibri said it was also an overwhelming, intense experience. Degibri was in his early 20s, living a “bubbly dream,” as he put it, yet he felt unworthy.

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Degibri’s most recent album, Israeli Song, features a dream team of internationally-respected artists, including mentors Ron Carter and Al Foster and the piano genius Brad Mehldau. He was playing with his teachers as equals. “(I was) preparing myself physiologically for this experience. They are all in their own ways big stars — and even divas — so I was prepared for this session.” Of course, the album came out beautifully. “I was very polite, but I did ask for things ... with great respect to them as masters.” When asked which of his songs on his last album meant to most to him, he said, “All of my songs are special to me. The title song, ‘Israeli Song’ is a little more special. It inspired me to make the whole record.” The duet with Brad Mehldau is a highlight of this stunning CD. It certainly hints at his native background, but there is a bit more to it. As Degibri was composing, he found that it had something in common with Westerninfluenced Israeli music. “It reminds me (of) a Saturday afternoon in Israel.” Degibri usually names songs after he writes them, but this one came to him before he was finished. “It reminded me of a song, but I didn’t know which one, so I decided to call it Israeli Song.” Degibri accomplished much at an early age. He moved to New York, had a coveted place in the most exclusive music school in the world, and worked with the biggest names in jazz. But his big break was yet to come. “After Herbie, I came back to New York and was sure it would be a big jump in my career.” But that didn’t exactly happen.

Depression followed, and that lead him to compose. “This is how I overcame it.” When Degibri felt emptiness, “I sat on the piano and beautiful music came to me … The depression is how I found that talent in me.” Now 33, he calls two countries home. He’s been rotating between New York and Tel Aviv since 1997. “I can’t see myself in just one place ... New York has so much to offer. It is a place to meet amazing, genius musicians. Musically, it is home to me.” He doesn’t prefer one over the other, but surprisingly he talked about the privacy he gets in one of the biggest cities in North America. “In Tel Aviv everyone knows you. It’s like a big family ... New York has a privacy that is unique.” Degibri has traveled the world with his music. He’s played all over North America, Africa and Europe. He’s been to Japan, but this will be his first time in Korea. He said this visit will be “the first of hopefully many.” Degibri said that Korean cuisine is one of his favorites and that he was looking forward to trying some authentic kimchi. He gave Groove Korea readers a hint of what’s to come when he hits the stage at the Jarasum Jazz Festival. “We are going to play mostly original compositions ... we are going to introduce some new stuff, but most will be from the CDs.” He will likely call a few standards, too. He’s a big fan of Body and Seoul and Cherokee, so there’s a chance you will hear one of those. The Eli Degibri Quartet is scheduled to perform at the Jarasum Jazz Festival on Oct. 3 at 5:30 p.m. on the main stage. Israeli Song is available on iTunes or at www.elidegibri.com.

Na-hyun Kim

Hopes to Break Out By Matthew Lamers Na-hyun Kim is a relative newcomer to Korea’s jazz scene. And when the gorgeous 23-year-old Busan native strolls onto the Jarasum International Jazz Festival stage for the first time in her career, she hopes it will become her big break. Kim has lived a life of music. Ever since she first sat behind a piano at age 5, she dreamed of becoming a classical pianist. After entering high school, she started to take it more seriously. “I love music because it is so pure and beautiful,” she said. Her inspirations are wide ranging. They include progressive rockers King Crimson, Pink Floyd, ELP and Alan Parsons. “For the last couple years, I have been influenced by a lot of rockers who are progressive music artists. Their beautiful and amazing music influences me. Among jazz musicians, Terje Rypdal’s music touches my heart. Just listening to my favorite music influences me naturally.” For Kim, all of her songs are special in some way. “All the songs I have written are special, but I guess ‘Impression’ is one that stands out,” she said. “It was made with the Kim Na Hyun band. I think that was my first big step in the industry. It came about after I went to an art exhibition; and I wanted to express my feelings about the art by abstract inspiration - not by analysis.” Kim has yet to release her own album, but she told Groove Korea that something is in the works. “I can only say that I have a plan, so please keep an eye out,” she said. Kim is planning to surprise Jarasum International Jazz Festival concert goers when she hits the stage in October. “You will enjoy a very progressive, rough, and avant-garde performance,” she said.

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Your career began at Webber Douglas Academy in London, however you've mastered the sounds of classic American artists like Frank Sinatra, Cole Porter and Irving Berlin. How many times have people mistakenly assumed you are from the United States, and what got you hooked on early20th-century American jazz?

JARASUM INTL. JAZZ FESTIVAL

INTERVIEW

Duncan Galloway On Noraebang and the Future of Jazz

I get mistaken for an American quite a lot, but a good deal of that was because of the Pasadena Roof orchestra’s name! I toured the U.S. with this wonderful band in 1992, about 47 concerts in just over 10 weeks, which was hard work but great fun. The very “English” dance orchestra took its name from Harry Warrens’ 1920s hit “Home in Pasadena,” and some of the Americans were very confused when I spoke to them in Oxford English! It actually disturbed one early reviewer when I sang “When we’re Da(h)ncing Cheek to Cheek,” and I thought if you’re singing Kurt Weil you wouldn’t sing German with an English accent, so I often flatten some of the vowels so it sounds maybe American, or hopefully similar in style to when Fred Astaire’s singing glides through the melody. You basically learn from what you hear. My first memory of listening to early American jazz was seeing a film of Gene Krupa playing “Sing Sing Sing” with Benny Goodman. As a young boy I thought it looked so cool, and Gene Krupa was a master at making great music look like good fun. I also enjoyed a TV play in the ’80s, by an Englishman named Dennis Potter, which was a story about a record peddler. At regular intervals in the plot, everything would stop, and you’d get a wonderful track from a ’20 s or ’30s dance band with a bit of choreography relevant to the storyline. It was a wonderful piece, and immediately got me wanting to hear more of that kind of music.

You've been touring internationally throughout your career, playing shows in Germany, Turkey and Malaysia, to name a few places. How has the reception to your style of jazz evolved? Have you noticed any particular trends while performing in Asia?

By Maxwell Coll Duncan Galloway’s smooth voice and classy style has led the British performer to international stardom. The singer and saxophonist produces a sound similar to early-20th-century American greats like Frank Sinatra, Bing Crosby and Dean Martin, but off the stage, Galloway confounds fans with his thick Oxford English accent. The Brit became hooked on American-style jazz early in his career, and his extraordinary talents have sent the musician to the world’s 10 | www.GROOVEKOREA.com| september 2011

greatest venues. Galloway, who will be performing at this year’s Oct. 1-3 Jarasum Jazz Festival, spoke with Groove Korea about his career and coming to Korea. Galloway’s Jarasum performance will be particularly special. Having married Busan native Bon Hi Kim in 2005, it will be the first time that he’ll perform for her in front of a Korean audience. Galloway and Kim met in Colombo, Sri Lanka, in 1998. Kim is an opera singer and has worked at opera houses and concert halls in Europe.

The biggest thing for my type of jazz, or let’s say the era of music that I sing, is one of age groups. When I started singing songs from the 1920s and 30s back in 1990, I had the privilege of meeting some fascinating people, many of whom had actually heard Ray Noble and his Orchestra, or danced to the music at the Monsigneur restaurant in Oxford Street before the Second World War. Sadly, in 2011 most of that prewar generation is no longer with us. I suppose I could have tried to change my repertoire, but I think it is much more rewarding to introduce this music to a new younger generation. I am very positive when modern artists such as Robbie Williams or Rod Stewart try the American Songbook because it does just

that. All of a sudden, someone in their 20s is familiar with Cole Porter’s “I’ve got you under my skin” (written in 1936) because Robbie Williams has covered the 60s Frank Sinatra/ Nelson Riddle version. I’m really pleased when young fans come to me and say that they were unfamiliar with music from this era, and they enjoyed listening to it. From Asia’s perspective, I guess the general exposure to jazz has increased. I was there before, the biggest Jazz record collection I ever saw was in Japan many years ago; but with China’s emergence and the global Internet, I think the exposure for Western music and culture has generally increased.

How does Korea's jazz scene compare to other places you've traveled to? I have visited Korea before, in 2003, but must confess to not really thoroughly knowing the music scene there. From the Internet, and acts I see at jazz festivals, it looks to be

It will undoubtedly augment its own style, and hopefully increase the amount of musicians that play jazz. To do this, it has to engage young people, and from the popularity of Asian jazz festivals I think the future for the genre looks good. I am going to be doing a project before Jarasum Island in Seoul, before my boys come out, with a Korean quartet, so that will be a really interesting challenge.

One of the most popular night activities in Korea is singing at noraebang, or karaoke rooms. When singing in noraebang, would you choose songs like “Come Fly With Me,” or is there another genre that you secretly enjoy singing? I think for noraebang you should take a few risks and do something different! In the past, I have been persuaded by my operasinging wife to brush upon some long-forgotten classical singing that I did a while ago. I also have been known to enjoy the odd Elvis, or Tom Jones number.

If you could share the stage with one jazz artist, living or dead, who would it be? Another tricky question, there are so many! If I had to choose one, I guess it would be Teddy Wilson, because I think he was one of the most tasteful accompanists that was ever on this planet. The chords are always so “right” and the phrasing just fits so perfectly with all the great names he ever played with. Swings like crazy, too, when he needs to. I would have loved to have sung with him.

You'll be playing in Korea with your quintet. How did this group form and could you describe your experiences traveling internationally with this group?

quite lively. The bill at Jarasum, for example, would be similar to the North Sea Jazz festival in Holland, or Ascona in Switzerland. I enjoyed meeting the other artists when I guested at those festivals, the big ones are a real melting pot of jazz and a real opportunity to hear other artists which you otherwise don’t get when you are touring individual theatres on the road.

How do you think jazz will evolve in the region in the coming decades? I hope jazz evolves in Asia in the widest sense of the word. It really is a unique art, and over the years has developed many categories from the many different regions where it is played. South America, Cuba, New Orleans, Chicago, London, Scandinavia. Asia can have a great perspective on the whole jazz scene, and can enjoy the best that everyone has to offer.

I enjoy singing with the Pasadena Roof orchestra very much, but the emergence of my quintet has enabled me to perform different material and indulge myself in playing saxophone. I was first offered a job just as a corporate engagement in London, but we all enjoyed it so much that I decided to make the CD “Timeout” and make it into a fullyfledged music project.

Do you have any pre-performance rituals? Ha! I’m actually very maintenance-free as a singer! Some artists are very superstitious, will only go on the left-hand side of the stage, gargle with honey and lemon, take throat sweets with them everywhere. I think I’m lucky because I don’t really have any rituals.

You’re an international star. If you could spend one night in any city in the world, which city would it be? I think I would like to sail into the beautiful Sydney Harbour on Christmas Day and eat at one of the fabulous seafood restaurants there. I would then go down to Melbourne the next day with my wife to watch the Boxing Day test match cricket. My wife is South Korea’s biggest cricket fan.

September 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 11

JARASUM INTL. JAZZ FESTIVAL

A Quick Guide to the Jarasum International Jazz Festival Prices

1-Day

2-Day

3-Day

Online

35,000 won

55,000 won

70,000 won

Onsite - Adults

40,000 won

Onsite - Youth

30,000 won

Dates: Oct 1-3 (1:00 PM – 10:30 P.M. daily) Location: Jara Island (Daljeon-ri, Gapyeong) *All Tickets include a 5,000 won Gift Certificate. *20% discount for purchasing at least 30 1-day tickets (Deadline 9/23). *Free Admission for senior citizens (age 65 and up), people with disabilities and preschool children. Phone Numbers: Ticketing Call Center: 1577-2365/lotte.com Homepage: www.jarasumjazz.com (Korean, English)

Returning for its 8th year, it has become one of the premier jazz festivals in Asia attended by over 100,000 people. Over 90 percent of attendees are repeat visitors. What is it about this jazz festival that has captivated so many, for so long? That question intrigued this veteran of several New Orleans jazz festivals, jazz concerts and University of New Orleans Jazz Nights at the Sand Bar (where I regularly witnessed Ellis Marsalis playing with his visiting children - the famous Marsalis Brothers -Wynton, Ellis, Jason and Delfeayo). Jazz is very difficult to define. It covers many genres, evolving sounds and multiple viewpoints. Jazz is very individual. Each performance is marked by spontaneity and vitality where improvisation plays a prominent role. I recall a night many moons ago, when Wynton Marsalis did an impromptu performance at the Jackson Brewery in New Orleans. I was blown away by the pure joy this man showed toward his craft. But that was New Orleans, the birthplace of jazz. This is Korea. How has jazz caught on so fast here? There’s something unique about the Jarasum International Jazz Festival. The festival is held on an island just 4 km long. It floats above the Bukhan River in Gapyeong and is normally uninhabited due to flooding part of

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the year. This gives Jara Island a vibrancy of new life, with luscious greens, wild flowers and rolling hills. A stunning setting for a music festival, for sure, this is one of the reasons why so many visitors return. The festival grounds provide a comfortable and relaxing place to spend a care-free afternoon or evening listening to some fine music with family and friends while laying on the grass or picnicking with some sandwiches, gimbap and a bottle of your favorite beverage, beer or wine. This year they have a World Percussion Instrument Exhibition. Following in that theme, the performance lineup is peppered with percussive spice including two famous Latin jazz musicians, the conguero (congo player), Poncho Sanchez, known for afro-Cuban rhythm music, and the treasured Brazilian export, drummer, Alexandre Cunha. The flare continues with Mdungu, an international group with musicians from Holland, Luxembourg, Spain and Gambia - known for their impressive percussion and Afro-funk rhythms. That’s not all. There is a variety of other jazz and music flavors showcased at the festival that is sure to fill the needs of any jazz fan or any music fan for that matter. From Europe, they have the avant-garde French guitarist Marc Ducret and the Italian pianist Danilo Rea. The American contingent includes

the likes of pianist and vocalist Freddy Cole and the legendary R&B/Soul group Tower of Power (TOP). The musical buffet will have something to satisfy every ear from hip hop (Ladi6), Arab inspired jazz (Dhafer Youssef) and maybe even some gospel from Geri Allen. Even jazz traditionalists, can find refuge in the music of saxophonist Eli Degibri, who attended the uber-prestigious Thelonious Monk Institute of Jazz Performance, where only the best and the brightest young jazz musicians in the world are selected (six per year) to attend its two-year program. One of the festival’s many highlights is the Jazz Concours, where up and coming individual artists from around the world compete for 10 million won in prize money and the chance to perform at the opening of the 2012 Jarasum International Jazz Festival. What a jazz cultural feast the Jarasum venue offers – over 50 acts from around the world performing at multiple stages, a stunning setting, shops selling every sort of jazz paraphernalia and art pieces. Little doubt can remain why the Jarasum International Jazz Festival, billed as the biggest in Asia, has so many loyal fans and has grown so quickly into such a marvelous, world class experience.

Programs: International Jazz Fest, International Jazz Concours, World Percussion Instrument Exhibition, Trackless Train Experience Zone, Jazz Book Fest.

Highlights of the International Lineup: From

Main Acts

Genre

U.S.

Freddy Cole Quartet

American Song Book – Jazz Standards

Mexican-American

Poncho Sanchez

Latin Jazz/ Bepop Jazz

Korea

Choi Sun Bae

Classic Jazz/ Free Jazz

France

Marc Ducret

Jazz Fusion/ Avant Garde

Italy

Danilo Rea

European Jazz/ Improv

U.K.

Duncan Galloway

Swing/Free Jazz

International

Mdungu

Rock/Funk/Latin/ Afro Jazz

U.S.

Tower of Power (TOP)

Rhythm and Blues/ Soul

Norway

Ketil Bjornstad

European Jazz/ Free Jazz

New Zealand

LADI6

Hip Hop

Israel

Eli Degibri

Traditional Jazz

U.S.

Geri Allen

Post bop/Blues/ Funk Jazz

Netherlands

Eric Vloeiman

Jazz Fusion

Tunisia

Dhafer Youssef

Jazz Fusion/ Sufi Inspired

Brazil

Alexandre Cunha

Latin Jazz

September 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 9

JARASUM INTERNATIONAL JAZZ FESTIVAL Welcome to the Best Jazz Festival in Asia By Laine Ritter

DUNCAN GALLOWAY page 10

Eli Degibri page 12

Na-hyun Kim page 13

Eric Vloeimans page 14

Freddy Cole page 16

Jangeun Bae page 17

With the tranquil backdrop of Jara Island (Turtle Island), the Jarasum International Jazz Festival kicks off on Oct. 1 for a three-day musical delight. It will encompass the vibrant sounds of Latin, soul, afro-funk, hip hop, rhythm and blues (R&B), post bop, European jazz, as well as American jazz standards.

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September 2011| www.GROOVEKOREA.com| 7

jarasum — the best jazz festival in asia

Sept. 2011 | Issue 59

Eli Degibri

This legend in the making can’t wait to gorge on hansik

plans to take Jarasum on a great musical ride, and talks about what made him who he is

Na-hyun Kim Hoping for a big break,

she prepares a progressive, rough and avant-garde performance Laine Ritter writes about the Jarasum International Jazz Festival’s tranquil backdrop of Jara Island and what to expect when it kicks off on Oct. 1 for a three-day musical delight.

Duncan GallowaY shares his noraebang experience, talks about the future of jazz and tells Groove Korea how excited he is to perform in his wife’s homeland

Eric Vloeimans Freddy Cole Quartet

lookING forward to Korea

A peak into the world of

Jangeun Bae