FORM
SPRING / SUMMER 16
THE INDEPENDENT ISSUE
EDITORS IN CHIEF
Kojo Abudu Tory Macdonald
EDITOR AT LARGE
Emily Dunkel
CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Gabi Weiss
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
Allie Kenny Allie Tallering
DESIGN DIRECTOR
Elizabeth Lim
FASHION DIRECTOR
Hallie Aston
PRODUCTION DIRECTOR
Dejana Saric Kara Penn Cassidy Seggern
DIRECTORS OF PUBLIC RELATIONS
Reena Sudan
ADMINISTRATIVE DIRECTOR
Kendall Barrett Max Bernell Serene Cheng Travis Long Sophia Schaedle Jean Yenbamroong
FASHION TEAM
FEATURES WRITERS
Katherine Ahn Micah English Emily Goldman Allie Kenny Brian Lin Emily Peseck Maddy Shaw Kat Zhao
PRODUCTION TEAM
Jacqueline Thomas Jillian Lowey Natalie Mauney Audrey Wang
ART & ILLUSTRATION
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Letter from the Editors The Headlines Alumni Spotlight Walk The Line It Boys Defeated No More Modern Women 20/20 Magnificent Muses Political Fashion The Wanderer’s Lens Read My Mind Filters Give Me Momofukin More Conscious Couture Dustland Fairytale Looking Forward
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LETTER FROM THE EDITORS Welcome to FORM Magazine S/S 16 – The Independent Issue. As promised we have created an innovative publication with beautiful content representative of the latest happenings within the fashion world. This year, the fashion industry has begun to cater to a wider variety of individual styles. In just one season we have seen the revitalization of 70’s silhouettes, the glamorization of street wear and the rebirth of the ultra feminine aesthetic. While these varied styles give rise to divergent social commentary, they also open doors that give greater respect to personal style creators over insistent trend chasers. In this issue, we wanted to bring our readers fashion in its current form – raw and independent. We approached this issue in a manner that allowed for the individual trends, ideas and inspirations of this season to flourish on our pages. Whether you are a streetwear modern rebel in Defeated No More or a wistful dreamer belonging in the Dustland Fairytale, we embrace the unconstrained and capture a small fraction of what we see in the world around us. We hope to continue inspiring readers to embrace their personal style and revel in the light of individual, free expression. Enjoy!
TORY & KOJO
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THE HEADLINES 1 / COMPETING VIRTUAL REALITY PLATFORMS
Google Cardboard and Oculus Rift Dominate VR Market It’s been two years since the release of Google Cardboard, but only now has virtual reality received more media play. Google Cardboard is a cheap headset made of folded cardboard with a lens holding a smartphone to connect viewers to virtual worlds. This April, users will be able to transport themselves to Coachella, watching a live performance on the compatible app. Facebook’s invention: Oculus Rift Goggles offer an unprecedented alternative reality experience. The headset allows users to interact with physical space through real-world position tracking, opening endless gaming possibilities. Visual reality seems to be the next big thing in tech, and with Google and Facebook on the case we’re just excited to see what comes next.
2 / MANUS X MACHINA
Metropolitan Museum of Art, NYC, May 5 - August 15 A transcendent display of the evolution of fashion and technology is coming to the Met this summer in the Costume Institute’s latest exhibition. The title literally translates to “Hand x Machine” and will focus on a physical comparison of handmade versus machine-made fashion. The exhibit will show how growth of technology affects fashion and how easily tech blurs the line between what is considered high fashion. Manus x Machina will dissect the relationship between fashion and technology through time and leave spectators with a new anticipation for what to expect for the future.
3 / NIKELAB X RICARDO TISCI, KIM JONES & JUN TAKAHASHI
Summer of Sport, April 2016 Nike, following in the footsteps of Adidas and Puma, has decided to step into the world of ready-to-wear. Athleisure represents both a shift in fashion and society’s priorities. Thus, Nike has created NikeLab, where its designers tap
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into the fashion world. On March 17th, Riccardo Tisci launched his collaboration with NikeLab, one of three upcoming designer collaborations by Nike labeled “Summer of Sport”. In addition to Tisci, NikeLab is launching collections with Kim Jones of Louis Vuitton and Jun Takahashi to celebrate the Rio Olympics. The difference between sportswear and ready-to-wear is blurring. Expertly curated designs that fit performance are in high demand and we look forward to what Nike has in store next.
4 / HEDI SLIMANE SAYS AU REVOIR A SAINT LAURENT
On April 1st, 2016 Hedi Slimane confirmed rumors of his departure as the creative director of Saint Laurent. In four unique years, Slimane transformed Saint Laurent into one of the most commercially successful labels of the new decade with edgy tweaks to the modern classic styles. Slimane emphasized a youthful interpretation of street style that critics often grumbled were too far of a stretch from the sophisticated glamour that had been the core of Yves Saint Laurent. However, as a celebrity favorite, Slimane brought the brand into the modern era and we are thrilled to see where he lands next.
5 / CAFE SOCIETY
Opening at 2016 Cannes Film Festival, May 11 - 12 On May 11th 2016, Woody Allen’s latest work will open at the internationally celebrated film festival for the third time. His film stars Jesse Eisenberg and Kristen Stewart, as well as many other acclaimed actors. Allen tells the story of a young man that arrives in Hollywood in the 1930s aspiring to work in the film industry only to find himself swept up in the spirited café society that defined the era. Cannes once again invites an unconventional, nostalgic piece into their prized body of works. It is a must-see. KOJO ABUDU, TORY MACDONALD + EMILY PESEK
ALUMNI SPOTLIGHT
Chelsea Lavarack Duke alumnus, Chelsea Lavarack, excels in #herCalvins. Justin Bieber might be flexing and Kendall might be flaunting, but behind it all is Senior Coordinator of Special Events Global Communications. Although she was unable to give us any dirt from the Green Room with these two celebs, she gives intriguing insight into how she was able to conquer the fashion world after graduation.
lowing her to get her well-outfitted foot in the door. Landing her ideal job took a lot of work after graduation and she encourages other fashion industry dreamers to “stick with it!” Yielding to her own advice, she stuck with it and is now immersed in arranging events all over the world. From managing designers’ creative direction for runway shows in Milan and New York to working with Public Relations teams in Hong Kong, Chelsea is constantly globetrotting. Just recently, she was in Basel, Switzerland for Baselworld, the world’s largest watch and jewelry fair that is currently showcasing Calvin Klein. She managed an intimate press dinner that featured a musical performance by the indie pop band WET. Chelsea’s versatile event list keeps her day-to-day schedule fresh. One day she is administering sounds checks for Kendall Jenner and the next day she is choosing the guest list for a Model Presentation.
Lavarack graduated Duke in 2011. A year after she stormed the quad when Duke won the NCAA basketball championship, she had to figure out how to take the working world by storm- all with her trademark enthusiasm and passion. Blue Devil blood runs deep, as she was referred to Calvin Klein by an older alumnus on the VIP team. Chelsea liked the company’s ability to balance its iconic status within American culture while remaining “provocative and forward-thinking.” The company has the added benefit of being based in midtown Manhattan, allowing Chelsea to remain close to her fellow Duke grads who made the jump to professional city life. She says, “the friendships that I made while studying at Duke are without a doubt some of the most important relationships and have shaped my postgraduate life.”
“All experience is good experience,” Chelsea repeats. The key to breaking through in a crowded industry is networking, as Lavarack shows. Utilizing the huge breadth of alumni experience is a way forward for post-grads. Who knows? With little time, a lot of dedication, and the right skills, you could be dressing Justin Bieber, planning A-list events, and even snagging some new threads from the Calvin Klein closets too.
While at Duke, Chelsea majored in Theater Studies and English and pursued internships that would strategically position her for a career in PR. She did the Duke in New York Arts and Media program and interned at Richard Frankel Productions, known for managing Hairspray and Gypsy. And junior year, she interned in the Public Relations department at Calvin Klein, al-
ALLIE KENNY
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top Maje White vest Iro pants Marjorie shoes Adidas watch Apple
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WALK THE LINE photography Tory Macdonald models Markus Fjørtoft + Caroline Vaters fashion Kojo Abudu, Hallie Aston, Serene Cheng + Jean Yenbamroong production Jacqueline Thomas post production Elizabeth Lim
top Eleven Paris cardigan Abercrombie & Fitch pants Zara shoes Adidas sunglasses Ray Bans
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top David Beckham pants Abercrombie & Fitch shoes Adidas
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top River Island shorts Zara shoes Zara
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dress Sam & Lavi Los Angeles sunglasses Lunettes Kollektion shoes Adidas
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top Zara pants Zara shoes Zara
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top Opening Ceremony shorts Vince sunglasses Lunettes Kollektion shoes Adidas
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top Elizabeth James jeans J Brand sunglasses Lunettes Kollektion shoes Adidas
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IT BOYS G DRAGON Just like music, fashion has the power to transcend beyond geographic and linguistic borders. In recent years, the fashion world has seen the rise in prominence of different Asian cultures that influence Western designers and their work. One of the rising stars in the fashion scene is none other than South Korea’s fashion icon and star celebrity G-Dragon.
where G-Dragon really caught international attention with his bright pink hair. He captured the eye of many street-style photographers and was praised by everyone from Karl Lagerfeld and Olivier Rousteing to close friend Jeremy Scott. Many magazines such as Grazia, i-D, and WWD have pointed him as an important global influence on both men’s and women’s fashion.
Although his real name is Kwon Ji-yong, he’s known worldwide as G-Dragon. He debuted in 2006 as the leader of the boy group Big Bang, setting trends with both their music and their fashion sense. His group, Big Bang, is the most popular boy group in South Korea. Concerts sell out in a matter of minutes and their songs easily rank first on multiple music sites. After becoming an international celebrity in East Asia, G-Dragon’s reputation as an artist has been rising in the Western music industry. Because he composes and produces all of his songs, many musicians- Pharrell Williams, Diplo, Skrillex, Will.i.am, and Justin Bieber, to name a few- have collaborated with him on various projects. With a mix of Justin Timberlake for his boy band to solo artist transformation and Kanye West for his artistry, G-Dragon is definitely a celebrity that you’ll be seeing more of for years to come.
His worldwide popularity and 8.4 million Instagram followers add to his branding and marketing power. Street wear brands such as KTZ and Chrome Hearts have seen their sales increase exponentially when G-Dragon posts photos of himself wearing their brands, or when the paparazzi catch him shopping at specific stores. His interest in art has also increased, shown by his personally curated art exhibition at the Seoul Museum of Art last summer. Titled PEACE MINUS ONE, the exhibition was a collaboration between G-Dragon and contemporary artists to help express himself and the world he lives in. The exhibition, consisting of over 200 pieces, caught national attention as this was the first time a K-pop star tried to cross over into the art world. G-Dragon is currently taking a break, having just released Big Bang’s third full album. While he’s lying low, his fans and the rest of the world eagerly anticipate what new songs and styles he’s going to cook up in the future.
As his popularity in the music world spilled over into fashion, G-Dragon has become the center of attention for his daring, androgynous outfit choices. Not just famous for being a musician, he is known for being a fashionista and pursuing his own unique sense of style. It wasn’t until Paris Fashion Week 2012
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TI SYOB JUSTIN BIEBER The scene is familiar – a packed Staples Center on a cool Los Angeles night, thousands of adoring fans screaming lyrics quasi-religiously, and a single spotlight on a teen idol. As Justin Bieber belts out a series of hopelessly catchy hits, something seems striking about he enthralls his pre-pubescent fan base. The outfits he rotates throughout the night are markedly different from what you might expect from a pop superstar – no obnoxiously reflective Lycra leggings, no sequined tunics, etc. Instead, Bieber is draped in dark color palettes of burgundy, black, and grey, sophisticated layering and silhouettes, and vintage punk rock t-shirts and distressed flannels. One shirt is proudly emblazoned with “Bigger Than Satan” on its back, yet another obvious (and somewhat pretentious) call to the more adult and moody tonality of his recent outfit selections.
wearing one of their minimally branded ballcaps. The subsequent online release sold out in a manner of minutes. This model of celebrity infatuation and impersonation has become a demonstrative trend over the last couple of years – Tyler the Creator and Supreme’s dominance in streetwear and resale markets, ASAP Rocky and his fallout with label Hood By Air. As fans are inundated with Twitter and Instagram captures of their favorite artists and celebrities, these famous individuals generate powerful and lucrative interest in their respective clothing selections and style. While streetwear labels seem to dominate the growing affiliation, high fashion design houses have noticed this powerfully influential and profitable partnership. Alexander Wang’s Spring 2016 campaign prominently featured rappers Travis Scott and Vic Mensa; Balmain depended on celebrity models Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid in its Paris fashion week runway show. As the profit margins for labels grow exponentially almost overnight, a more calculated movement towards capitalizing on celebrity inspiration has made waves in the fashion world. Labels are even creating celebrity-branded lines, with ASAP Rocky debuting a denim capsule with Guess in the spring and the infamously overpriced APC collaboration with Kanye West. As social media continues to empower and scrutinize individual stardom, the fashion and clothing market evolves, carving out enticing revenue streams from stylistic blocs of devoted fans and fashion enthusiasts alike.
This calculated venture into a grungy, dark aesthetic is the product of none other than Jerry Lorenzo, head designer of streetwear label Fear of God and prominent collaborator/member of Kanye West’s mysterious brain trust DONDA. Lorenzo styled Bieber on his latest Purpose tour. The partnership may seem strange at first glance – an international pop sensation paired with an underground streetwear stylist – but it has become indicative of a burgeoning affiliation between streetwear labels and celebrities. As musicians and models begin to cultivate dedicated fan bases, reciprocally, a steady surge in collaborations between fashion houses and celebrity endorsements has emerged. Underground streetwear label ANTI SOCIAL SOCIAL CLUB reached peak levels of streetwear fame after a single instance of Kanye
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top H&M pants I Love Ugly sneakers Common Projects
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DEFEATED
NO MORE photography Tory Macdonald models Anika Richter + Isti Urban fashion Kojo Abudu + Tory Macdonald post production Elizabeth Lim
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jacket Levi’s top COS pants 3x1
left/ jacket vintage vest Topshop top Forever 21 pants AG; right/ top Classic skirt Vince
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jacket Schott top thrift jeans Represent boots Premiata
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MODERN WOMEN
21 Century Feminism meets Porn st
When one thinks of porn, a few dominant images come to mind. Sweaty, well-endowed men and the oh-so willing bodies of large-breasted, makeup laden fantasy women who seem to love everything the men do to them- no matter how humiliating, degrading, or downright disgusting. As a society, we are absolutely obsessed with pornography. A number of surveys reveal that the majority of men, and a significant number of women (especially young women), watch porn frequently. Recent data has shown that as much as 30% of internet traffic is dedicated to porn, and a 2015 survey by Marie Claire revealed that women are not only watching porn, but that they do it in a multitude of ways and possess conflicting attitudes. 56% of women in the survey said that porn turned them on, but that they were concerned about the treatment of the actresses and the negative stereotypes that porn perpetuates. At the same time, 41% of them said that it was something they wanted to be a secret and
20% said that they were straight up ashamed. Evidently, even in its ubiquity, porn is still a taboo topic for far too many women. Jessie Andrews is young, blonde, baby-faced and beautiful. Her style is ineffably cool, trending towards an American Apparel aesthetic cultivated from her time working there as a model. She runs her own jewelry label called Bagatiba, DJ’s house music across the world in the hottest clubs, and spends her time flying back and forth from global hotspots like London and Los Angeles. Oh yeah- and she’s also a porn star. She frequently stars in adult videos. She has been doing it since she was 18, when she was approached by elite porn agent Mark Spiegler, who manages high-profile adult stars including Sasha Grey, a former client. She is one of many of a new “brand” of porn stars- porn actresses who use porn as one of many avenues to achieve fame, garner success, and even promote feminist values. On social media, she
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has gained hundreds of thousands of followers who like, retweet, and favorite her every word and pixelated image. Her twitter bio reads “Modern Woman” and that’s just what she is. By refusing to limit herself to one industry, she sets herself up for many different paths to stardom. But can getting into porn, an industry that often relies on misogynistic tropes and the subjugation of women, really be that liberating? In a recent interview with Dazed, she asserted that, “Porn is liberating if you’re involved with it as you learn so much about your body and what you like.”
New porn stars like Andrews and Knox are challenging these ideas and breaking down boundaries, one sweaty, well-lit scene at a time. Take former ECU student Carter Cruise. She dropped out of college just shy of graduating and is one of several part-time porn stars. Not content to just write her own sex blog, record music, and DJ, she also takes strong positions on her own body and working conditions. She has led the charge to bring back “the bush” to the porn world. Though she came into the industry fearing she had a “weird vagina,” getting into porn has helped her love and accept her body. These women can do it all, and they know it. They refuse to stick to the traditional definitions of what it means to be a porn actress. They’re taking their cues from a generation of older porn stars who managed to break into other industries, from celebrities like Kim Kardashian who turned sex tapes into multi-million dollar empires, and from other women who refuse to accept the constraints that a patriarchal society places on everything from their career choices to the ways that they get busy.
No one can forget when Belle Knox, “the Duke porn star,” dominated headlines and laptop screens alike when she exploded onto the porn scene in 2014, after being ousted by a fellow classmate. Her foray into the adult film industry was met with a myriad of reactions- ranging from shock to excitement to anger. Why would a Duke student need to do porn? Does this mean she will just have sex with anyone? How could she possibly justify her actions as feminist when they so clearly aren’t? Although the hype surrounding Knox has died down, her career raised questions that are still up for debate, particularly ones concerning feminism and porn. Whether the two concepts can coexist is a particularly contentious debate that riles many generations of feminist thinkers. Gloria Steinem has continually been outspoken against porn, though she sees potential value in erotica. Feminist scholar Catherine MacKinnon takes it a step further, asserting that porn is a form of violence and subjugation. Although some current third-wave feminists celebrate porn in certain forms and see it as a tool for women to reclaim their sexual agency, it’s still a minority position. Mainstream culture puts forth the image of the tragic porn star, perpetuating the idea that women only end up in sex work due to some awful combination of circumstance- that they must be broken.
In their own right, these women are some of the most innovative entrepreneurs out there. For them, pornography is not an end goal or a last, desperate resort, but rather one part of a larger, more complex picture. Yes, they occasionally get paid to have sex on camera, but they believe that the act itself is not inherently degrading. Their porn is the not the sum of their personhood and does not define them- they define themselves. They decide what to do, who to do it with, when to do it, and how often. And at the end of the day, isn’t that the definition of feminism that a forward-thinking society wants to see women embrace? Ultimately, no matter your opinion, these women are going to keep doing them (and anyone else they want, in front of a camera or not). MICAH ENGLISH
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20/20 photography Gabi Weiss models Vivian Luo fashion Max Bernell + Jean Yenbamroong post production Elizabeth Lim
dress Theory
top Max Mara dress Escada
dress Elizabeth & James
top Zara pants Rag & Bone
MAGNIFICENT
MUSES
The model, the celebrity, the muse. Throughout history, visual artists have credited various female characters for their creative inspiration and ultimate vision. Fashion is no different. Just as many famous artists have muses, so do famous designers. Almost every big name in the fashion world comes along with a fabulous pair - a stunning muse. Magnificent Muses explores the relationship between fashion designers and the women at the forefront of style and femininity. The women featured - models,
actresses, fashionistas, are some of the most accomplished, influential and beautiful of their time. The designers are sickeningly talented, innovative and smart. It is evident through these pairings that beauty inspires genius. Powerful and bright, these muses and designers feed off of each others’ style, brains, and personality, keeping them at the forefront of the fashion industry. SASHA BRONFMAN art by AUDREY WANG
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AUDREY HEPBURN & Hubert de Givenchy This iconic partnership is where the principal of the designer’s muse began. While Hepburn was filming Sabrina, the movie which made her the highest paid actress in the world, she flew to the Parisian Atelier of the legendary master couturier Hubert de Givenchy for hand crafted designs for the movie. Their first meeting sparked a
lifelong relationship of friendship and admiration. Givenchy and Audrey sparked the post World War II elegance within the fashion world. Together they curated a timeless perfection that was emulated all over the world then and today. Their “fashion marriage” remains one of the first and still one of the most iconic within fashion history.
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MADONNA & Jean Paul Gaultier The pair shares a 25+ year love affair in the fashion world, something that is rarely upheld by most designers and muses. Both Gaultier and Madonna exhibit lifelong liaisons between pop culture and fashion. Gaultier has been known to ‘destroy’ elegance, triumphing pieces that play up the classic grunge of street fashion - a form of style that Madonna often chooses. The duo’s
legendary partnership was born when she wore his design to the premier of Desperately Seeking Susan. Gaultier is responsible for Madonna’s infamous conical bras and corsets, outfitting her for her 1990 Blond Ambition Tour. The duo has gone onto collaborate on many sets, costumes, and tour designs, challenging each other with an avante garde attitudes and deep respect.
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INES DE LA FRESSANGE & Karl Lagerfeld Ines de la Fressange, a French supermodel in the 1980s has had a particularly long and complicated relationship with designer Karl Lagerfield. Exclusively signed to the French couture house, Ines represented the quintessential Parisian girl. The face of Chanel, Ines became an icon. However, she briefly lost her coveted
position as Lagerfield’s muse when she accepted a contract as the face of France, an attempt to forge ahead on her own. However, Lagerfield and Ines have since reunited. Ines walked the Chanel spring 2011 show and has reclaimed her spot as both his supermodel muse and consultant.
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JULIANNE MOORE & Tom Ford Tom Ford has a special place in his heart for Julianne’s classic American beauty. Ford experiments with textured fabrics and bold colors using Moore as a canvas to accentuate his styles. The relationship is mutual as Ford challenges Moore to make bold red carpet statements and remain at the forefront of fashion. Ford, who also direct-
ed a movie that Julianne starred in called A Single Man has described the actress as elegant, smart, and loyal, but first and foremost: fearless. He finds that not only her aesthetic, but her personality, parallels his hunger for risk-taking and considers the actress not only a muse, but a friend
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MARION COTILLARD & Dior Haute Couture Marion Cotillard is one of the many faces of Dior as well as a coveted brand ambassador. Raf Simons champions her French elegance and lauds her for the simple sophistication that she exudes. Marion has been featured as Lady Dior for the 2015 cam-
paign, has been in countless Dior runway shows and regularly walks the red carpet almost strictly in the designer. A tribute to Christian’s Parisian roots, Cotillard serves as Dior’s omnipresent source of inspiration.
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THE EVOLUTION OF
Political Fashion For the last 100 years, men in politics have woken up in the morning, decided which tie matches their neutral suit, and stepped out onto Capitol Hill for a day of chaos and policymaking. Women, on the other hand, have been subject to an array of social and political factors that place their wardrobe choices under much scrutiny. Over time, women in politics have begun to challenge the traditional and conservative nature of clothing by asserting their sexuality in a way that embodies their power in the workplace.
en politicians to devalue their contributions as serious people. The standard of what is deemed “acceptable” by the public constantly shifts and has changed dramatically over time. Norms have changed along with the perception of women in the public sphere. From First Lady Martha Washington through Frances Cleveland, long evening gowns accompanied by corsets often made from silk were sported in social outings. Soon after, corsets became a fad of the past, and women like Amelia Earhart began a revolution of masculine-influenced, comfortable clothing. Despite radical social transformation through fashion, political trends for women remained separate from the 1920s flapper look. Eleanor Roosevelt, active in the political scene in the 1930s, was one of the first political women to stray away from corsets and floor length skirts. Roosevelt broke the mold off traditionally accepted feminine fashion, embodying practicality in a way that matched her approach to public life. She preferred mid-calf dresses that were liberating, especially when compared to Victorian garments. Suiting up for the 1940s, women began to further embrace masculine tailoring. And so began the era of the “power suit.” Madeleine Pelleti-
Women in government today must balance their public presence with appearances that are heavily scrutinized in the media. The New York Times has announced that after 23 years in the spotlight, Hillary Clinton has finally “triumphed” by stopping conversation about her clothes during debates and political events. But at what cost? Hillary has traded her large strands of pearls, tangerines and fuchsia for hues of black, navy, white, and gray. In today’s political climate, it appears that toning it down, in both color and individual style, is the only way that people will focus on what really matters: policies and politics. Political fashion has always been a bludgeon used against wom-
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er, a French physician and social activist, captured the political nature of the suit perfectly- “My suit says to men: I am your equal.” Made credible by Jackie Kennedy, women in the public eye popularized creative takes on the pantsuit. They projected a decidedly female take on corporate power. Doing away with gender stereotypes in fashion was facilitated by the sexual revolution of the 1970s, in addition to progress by feminists everywhere. Despite years of dissection, women in politics stood in sensible heels, straddling a thin line between their femininity and sexuality in the harsh light of the media.
chunky pink necklace, Hillary was harshly criticized by the media for being “too sexy” and showing cleavage while advocating for a bill on the Senate floor. Stepping onto the stage of the first debate of this election cycle, Hillary wore a simple white tunic and navy suit. Here lies the stereotype: women in power, particularly those holding political office, are scrutinized for going too far to embody their sexuality. Political women must conform in order to be taken seriously, or are criticized for pushing the “conservative and appropriate” envelope. Despite the obvious double standard, I have come to appreciate the sleek, individual style adopted by today’s women in politics. First-ever woman Speaker of the House, Nancy Pelosi, nods to both her authority and her womanhood by never sacrificing her sense of style despite the serious nature of her job. Her bold color choices contribute to her efforts as a minority leader, speaking out against ageism and sexism in politics. In the end, female leaders can’t win. Their choices are scrutinized beyond belief, no matter if they choose to play the fashion game or not. As a woman in the public eye, almost everything is political and people strive to make meaning out of these choices. We can herald how far women have come from the corset days, but they are still bound by the expectations of men. Maybe one day the Senate majority leader’s tie color will signify as much as the cut of Hillary’s suit jackets. All I know is that a lot would have to change to get us there.
Michelle Obama has transformed fashion for women in the political realm, emanating elegance while spinning classic looks into her own unique statement as First Lady. Her fashion sense has drawn significant attention due to its flexibility- ranging from elegant, sleeveless dresses to common designers such as J. Crew and Asos. However, emerging from strings of pearls and broaches pinned on blazers is a double standard. Why can Michelle Obama rock athleisure and beautiful gowns, while politicians like Hillary Clinton and Carly Fiorina almost exclusively wear blazers and pants on stage? While many of the women I have mentioned stand beside their prominent political husbands, women running for public office often stand alone. The New York Times has claimed that Hillary has mastered avoiding controversy over her outfits. Is this evasion because her ideas for a successful presidency are shining through or because she chooses to wear tone-on-tone suits that don’t attract much attention? In 2007, wearing a pink blazer and
EMILY GOLDMAN
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THE
WANDERER’S LENS With a phone in every palm, what distinguishes an average snap shot from genuine photography is beginning to blur. However, the accessibility of digital cameras cannot compensate for a true photographic eye and there still remains a difference between a colorful memory and a beautiful photograph. KEVIN BROOKE stuns viewers with a photographic storyboard of his personal travels. With expert instinct rivaling photojournalists of National Geographic, Kevin reminds us of the beauty we often take for granted. Highly contrasted, rich in color and distinct in symmetric frame, this collection inspires us to enhance our own memories.
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READ MY MIND photography Emily Dunkel models Puj Adusumilli + Travis Long fashion Kojo Abudu, Hallie Aston, Max Bernell + Sophia Schaedle post production Elizabeth Lim
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shirt Sugar Cane Light pants Full Count + Co watch Rolex sandals Teva
shirt COS sunglasses Moscot
jacket Helmut Lang shirt Banana Republic
tank On the Byas
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shirt COS pants Unis watch Rolex
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F I LT E R S photography Elizabeth Lim models Connor Guest, Anita Kundu, Cameron Moseley, Sydnei Murphy + Hawa Tucker makeup Kojo Abudu, Elizabeth Lim, Allie Tallering, Audrey Wang + Gabi Weiss post production Elizabeth Lim
GIVE ME MOMOFUKIN MORE
“No flashing allowed. Nor editing. Natural lighting only. Perspective is everything.” @san_food_cisco on the art of taking a food Instagram.
The Instagram of 2010 is not the same series of photos I scroll through on my screen every morning when I’ve just opened my eyes lying in bed. The carefree, unedited photos – often without even a filter – that I discover in the depths of friends’ unkempt profiles teleport me back to simpler days. Remember when you’d take an actual picture with the Instagram camera? Post whatever incidental snapshot made you laugh or smile? Before “toss up a gram” was something people said, before overwrought captions, before likes defined the quality of your posts. There was indeed a time when a night’s success, or even the motivation to attend an event, revolved around something other than getting a “gram.”
to social media. Yet, in the beginning, social media was meant to be about life, not life about it. I used to defend our generation’s obsession with phones against my parents’ constant nagging. Now, when practically everyone I know has an Insta, a fInsta, and/or a food account, I’ve begun to understand, even agree with, their claims. Not that I’m complaining or denying my own participation – merely noting that culture has evolved to integrate social media, which has given rise to a social media culture in and of itself. From my own feed, picture by picture, let’s dissect the latest happenings of this virtual world and how they reflect on us: the viewers, the users, the content producers.
It’s no secret that society steers us toward progress, and progress to technology, technology to Internet, and finally Internet
“Give me momofukin moreee,” reads the caption. Above, the insides of a Momofuku confetti cake tantalize me to the point of 74
salivation. Three luscious layers, with vanilla icing between and atop, don a crown of mini cake balls. My friend’s food account, @dough_licious, concludes the caption with a shameless shoutout to another food account with more followers, @foodagramerz, which has its own shout-out to @imshtuffed amidst a plethora of food-related hashtags. Each occupies a higher and higher rung on this invented food chain with one goal in mind – popularity. The more likes, followers, and attention, the better. But what’s the point? Unless publicizing photos of last night’s dinner, or, in this case, dessert, brings you inherent satisfaction, there has got to be a catch. And that there is. It’s money.
agonizing over the number of likes? Maybe what we’re really obsessed with is our self-conception. We are constantly validated by this image that we, post by post, create for ourselves and the image of others that we, picture by picture, compare ourselves to. Take Essena O’Neil, the Australian model and former Instagram star who but a few months ago made her notorious departure from social media. “I’m the girl who had it all and I want to tell you that having it all on social media means nothing to your real life.” Her “organic” post-transformation captions now read like, “Like my photo for my efforts to convince you that I’m really really hot,” or “I was paid for this photo. If you find yourself looking at ‘Instagram girls’ and wishing your life was theirs, you need to realize you only see what they want.” Maybe posting pictures of food for fun isn’t the only up and coming trend. And maybe bringing in the dough doesn’t take the cake, either. Perhaps the most recent move in the world of social media is leaving it for reality. The idyllic lives that form your feed – the cultured travels, the delectable cuisine, the laughing faces –might, in actuality, be someone whose greatest memory is that photo they took.
Did you know that if you have 100,000 followers, you could be making between $5,000-$10,000 a month? Especially well-known accounts, like @NewYorkCity, can ring in $1 per like plus a preliminary fee. To estimate, that’s usually over $20,000 a post. Another way to bring in some cash: sell your account. Accounts with 500K to a couple million have brought in six figures before. Yet, for those of us average grammers with barely 1,000 followers, this may seem a far-fetched prospect. Not to mention I thought popularity contests ended in high school. Not to fret! If you’ve ever been to Bull Street Gourmet & Market nearby Chapel Hill, you’ve walked into the very birthplace of @foodintheair. Ever heard of it? (Worth the look up.) The owner’s four daughters, Carolyn, Meg, Patty, and Charlotte began the famous food blog in 2013. FITA, as they’ve dubbed it for short, now works with companies on promotional posts and is making strides toward the creation of a recognizable brand. Restaurant reviews and product lines are in their sights, and a comfortable living doing what they love is in their midst. And it all began with an Instagram...
“Whenever people post food on Insta, it’s clear that they don’t actually eat it based on their other posts. So we were like, wouldn’t it be funny if there were an account of real chicks housing food.” @latenighteats_ on the origin of the account Just to clarify and conclude, I most definitely do NOT despise looking at delicious #eeeats all day, but I will ask you this. Next time you find yourself at a spectacular restaurant somewhere in the world, are you going to take a photo, or take a bite?
Although revenue may be a reality for some, what about the majority of the 300 million other active monthly users? What’s our incentive for obsessing over the perfect picture, inspecting each filter and every little edit, crafting the cleverest caption, and then
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THE NEW WAVE OF
Conscious Couture Concern over the future of our planet is growing, and the fashion industry has taken note. Increasingly, brands are taking steps to be more eco-friendly, while campaigns such as Livia Firth’s Green Carpet Challenge utilize the glamour and high media coverage of red carpet events to promote sustainable fashion. Collaborating with over fifty designers, these events communicate a widespread commitment by celebrities to oppose retail policies that harm the environment. On one hand, growing consumer desire to purchase from ethical companies, which is largely fed by this glamorization of eco-friendliness, bodes well for the green fashion movement. On the flip side, cheaper, unsustainable products remain attractive to shoppers on a budget. The future of the fashion industry, and the planet, rests on their ability to make both sustainable and affordable clothes available to willing consumers.
percent of the well-known fashion house’s jeans are now produced with organic cotton, and each article of clothing comes with a label reminding shoppers to be mindful of the environment when washing their laundry. These are just some of the steps McCartney has taken to rebrand high fashion as respectful of the earth’s resources. “It’s really the job of fashion designers now to turn things on their head in a different way,” said the designer about the future of sustainable fashion. She presents environmental consciousness as luxurious and desirable to her customers and hopes other brands will follow suit. It takes more than just a good cause for a company to take off. Companies see the branding opportunities in emphasizing the humanitarian aspect of green fashion. Today, customers aren’t just drawn to low prices - they also want to be ethical when making purchases. The rise of this “conscious consumerism” has seen companies adjust their marketing strategies to
Among the designers embracing the slogan “green is the new black,” Stella McCartney may be the most notable. Seventy-two 76
convince shoppers that their money is contributing to a moral cause. This is evident with the success of brands like TOMS, which matches each purchase by donating a pair of shoes to a child in need. Conversely, companies receive backlash for failing to meet moral standards, as Nike did in 1991 when it was exposed for the inhumane conditions and low wages at one of its Indonesian factories. PR scandals jeopardize sales, and fashion labels have adopted sustainable practices to avoid a potential public outcry. Companies profit from the development of eco-friendly practices in terms of their public image, so sustainable fashion may be a lasting development rather than a mere fad.
of waste because their products are not built to last. After one or two wears, it is not uncommon for these garments to simply fall apart, forcing consumers to discard them and contribute to ever-expanding landfills. These stores, which often imitate designer styles for dirt-cheap prices, are hard to resist and make eco-friendly purchases less affordable and more difficult to justify. Initiatives to encourage eco-friendly practices and reduce waste are taking root, despite the competitive pressures to produce faster and cheaper. The future of sustainable fashion hinges on consumer choice. Every customer must choose between low prices and sustainability, and companies will only continue to pursue greener policies if such practices are well received. For now, this tension between cost-efficiency and eco-friendliness is unresolved, so the future of sustainable fashion remains to be determined.
Despite shifting attitudes, cost efficiency persists as the biggest obstacle to the development of sustainable fashion. Companies like Forever 21 and H&M value reducing costs over producing durable goods, which allows them to sell at dramatically cheaper rates. These “fast fashion� brands create massive amounts
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adair / top Hoppens skirt Zara sandals thrift; phoebe / top Promod pants E Marcellin sandals Topshop; veohnti / top Gap overalls Country Pickins shoes Timberland; claire / top Zara pants J. Crew sandals Alegria
photography Gabi Weiss + Elizabeth Lim models Veohnti Afokpa, Claire Alexandre, Lauren Adair Jones + Phoebe O’Hara fashion Kojo Abudu, Serene Cheng, Sophia Schaedle production Jillian Lowey + Dejana Saric post production Elizabeth Lim
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DUSTLAND
FAIRYTALE photography Gabi Weiss + Elizabeth Lim models Veohnti Afokpa, Claire Alexandre, Lauren Adair Jones + Phoebe O’Hara fashion Kojo Abudu, Serene Cheng + Sophia Schaedle production Jillian Lowey + Dejana Saric post production Elizabeth Lim 79
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veohnti / top Gap pants Alfred Dunner jacket Elie Tahari; claire / top Danji skirt Zara boots Laberta; phoebe / top Topshop dress vintage shoes Topshop
phoebe / top Topshop pants Topshop; veohnti / jacket Club Monaco shorts thrift
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top Forever 21 skirt Atmosphere jacket Nature Rose sandals thrift
LOOKING FORWARD FALL WINTER 2016
NEW YORK
LONDON
MILAN
PARIS
New York Fashion week kick-started the F/W 16 shows with several highlights amongst a rather tired variety of collections. Kate and Laura Mulleavy created a dramatic vision for Rodarte filled with emotion and imagination. Their collection was filled with dreamy lacy ruffled dresses, long shaggy furs and patchwork leather coats. Marc Jacobs wowed us again with a heavy, edgy streetinspired show. Hood by Air took a deconstructive approach to chic and Alexander Wang followed suit, pushing conventional buttons with pole dancers and cannabis plants in his show. However, Proenza Schouler brought us back to fashion’s roots with a fine collection of expert craftsmanship and careful detail.
Milan fashion designers took this season to underline their strength in individualism. Alessandro Michele of Gucci created a 70’s and 80’s inspired collection full of vintage sillouettes and eclecticism. As expected, Muccia Prada created her own world, sending out a collection of densely layered outfits paired with structured business bags. Bottega Veneta took an opposite approach – stripping back to clean, simple lines with subtle accents such as a narrow belt here and a silver shoe there. Laslty, Missoni capped it off, capitalizing on the 70’s revival with expert knitware, exaggerated fabric and bold colors. Not one show was like the other and designers reveled in their individual strengths this season.
London designers focused their collections on strong emotional connections, fantasies and sensibilities. Sarah Burton introduced femininity to McQueen’s new collection with references to boudoir dressing and fairytale allusions in the appliqué. Christopher Kane’s collection featured large amounts of jewelry, feathers and lace. Additionally fanatastical, Erdum’s designs demonstrated wearable elegance with large amounts of silk, lace and sequins. Lastly, renowned house Burberry Prosum pulled from musical influences. Burberry wowed spectators with a variety of fabrics – including silk, flannels and leather, creating a colorful yet cozy collection.
This season, the Paris runway shows were dominated by hard-edged streetwear and intense drama. Demna Vsalia made a successful debut at Balenciaga with a combination of couture-worthy suits, turtleneck knits and modern, off-theshoulder parkas. The cold season is bringing volume – Vetements and Comme de Garcons both emphasizing exaggerated proportions with oversized shoulders and cinched waists. However, this season showed great breadth in style. Hard military lines and androgynous elegance dominated the Givenchy collection. In contrast, Valentino’s delicate, ballet-inspired collection exuded pale colors and ethereal femininity.
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TORY MACDONALD