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WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR? ISSUE 03 SUMMER 2017 8 OPENING SHOT 10 LETTER FROM THE EDITOR 12 CONTRIBUTORS 14 MOUNTAIN VITALS 16 GEAR BIN 18 GEAR: ALPACKA RAFTS 20 SERENDIPITY 22 HIT LIST 26 ALTITUDE ADJUSTMENT 32 DOWN BY THE RIVER 36 CURRENT CONDITIONS: BIKE PACKING 40 KILLER WEEKEND: TAOS 44 EXPLORE: GETTING HANDY 46 EXPLORE: CRESTED BUTTE 48 GRITTY GOURMET: ROSEMARY STEAK 50 KILLER WEEKEND: ARIZONA 51 TRAILBREAKER 52 WILD VOICES: MARY MONROE 56 HOW TO TIE YOUR SHOES 58 EXPLORE: HARDROCK 100 62 FIELD NOTES 64 VISTAS Photo by Brandon Mathis
FESTIVAL FEVER DOWN BY THE 22 RIVER 32 HIT LIST Summer is all about music, good food, camping and having fun. Check out our full guide for festivals in the West: From lavender to raspberries, huge music festivals to dance spectaculars, we’ve got you covered.
TREASURE MAP Whether boating, kayaking, tubing, rafting or SUPing is your specialty, there are numerous towns in the West ideal for river rats. These are a few of our favorites.
GETTING HANDY HOW TO TIE 44 YOUR SHOES 56 HANDIES PEAK One must-do thing in Colorado: Climb a 14-er. Handies Peak tops out at 14,058 feet and is one of the easiest paths to the roof of the Rockies. We summit this peak and give you the tips and tricks to plan your mountain hike.
ON THE COVER Enjoying views on Engineer Mountain in Colorado (at 12,968 feet) is a reward of summer. (Photo by Brandon Mathis)
6 ADVENTUREPRO.us
LACE UP RIGHT Ever wondered what those extra holes on the top of your shoe were all about? We’ll tell you. Now you know.
EDITORIAL
Brandon Mathis, Editor Claudia Laws, Sr. Manager, Online News Content & Video Production
Terrance Siemon, Photographer and Videographer
Laurie Kain, Photographer and Videographer Sara Knight, Illustrator and Writer Ben Gavelda, Freelance Photographer and Videographer
ADVERTISING & DESIGN
Todd Bartz, Director of Creative Services Justin Meek, Art Director Christian Ridings, Art Director
PRODUCTION Ryan Brown, Production Manager
MARKETING Brittany Cupp, Digital Marketing & Audience Development Manager Jamie Opalenik, Marketing Communications Manager
INTERACTIVE
PROJECT MANAGEMENT
ADVERTISING
Aaron Heirtzler, Director of Web Design and Development
Kricket Lewis, Vice President of Digital Product & Product Management
David Habrat, Vice President of Advertising
Colleen Donley, Advertising Director
Tracy Griffin, Account Executive
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER
Douglas Bennett
© 2017 All Rights Reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. Published in the United States by Ballantine Communications, Inc. – 1275 Main Ave., Durango, CO 81301. Ballantine Communications uses reasonable effort to include accurate and up-to-date information for its special publications. Details are subject to change, so please check ahead. The publisher accepts no responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this guide. We welcome suggestions from readers. Please write to the editor at the address above.
SUMMER2017 7
OPENING SHOT
8  ADVENTUREPRO.us
Point Lookout Trail Mesa Verde National Park
A hike up to Point Lookout Trail at Mesa Verde, Colorado, boasts a grand view as well as a look into the lives of the ancestral Puebloan people who made it their home for centuries. The vast size and rich history of the park is humbling, creating respect for past cultures and the significance of archeology. Nearly 5,000 archeological sites have been recorded here, the only national park dedicated to the works of mankind.
Photo by Terrance Siemon
SUMMER2017 9
FIRST LIGHT
Do Yourself a Favor D
Photo by Bryan Bagdoll
on’t just take a drive. Stop. Get out of the car and head into the hills. The sounds alone are enough to engulf you in another time. Another place. Another you. While tended Main Street gardens flourish across the mountain West, up high in the wild and remote alpine world every flower is a miracle, every waterfall a phenomenon. The days are to be cherished. That feeling you get, the carnival of spirit and senses, the wind on your face, even the thin air is precious. Revel. Take it in. Monday comes fast. In this issue of Adventure Pro we celebrate the most dazzling season of the year: hummingbirds and rushing rivers, festivals and daylight at night, watching as Columbines, Avalanche lilies and countless blossoms explode into a kaleidoscope of color. Every weekend is a chance to do something new. Find your way to the mountains, and stay all summer long. We hike 14,000-foot Handies Peak and prepare you to get up there. We get gritty with the Hardrock Hundred Endurance Run and we hit festivals in every direction. We trace mountain biking’s roots to Crested Butte and we’re all aboard a historic train to bike pack through the backcountry. We go pack rafting and meet folks who are redefining adventure. We take you to the Collegiate Peaks for an illustrated 14-er weekend. We hike a national recreation trail, and we meet two women clearing a path at one of America’s greatest trail destinations. This issue is blooming with adventure. We hope we inspire you to celebrate the splendor of the summer, to get you out there in it. Just do yourself a favor and go. What are you waiting for? BRANDON MATHIS, Editor
10 ADVENTUREPRO.us
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SUMMER2017 11
CONTRIBUTORS
Ben Gavelda
Todd Bartz
“The places you go, the environment, the freedom. You can go anywhere, any mountain range. It opens the door.” When Gavelda’s not out mountain biking or snowboarding, he can be found exploring new locations, documenting outdoor activities, nature and the way the light highlights the best of everything. “(Photography) is a beautiful way to capture some places, to take a slice of the moment. These places, they should be documented so people can see what we have and what’s out there.” Winter is his favorite season. “Whether it’s a storm or not, the snow is so reflective and the mountains look so beautiful covered in snow. The way that the blanket of snow can alter the light is really amazing.” It may not be winter, but in this issue, Gavelda writes about the joy of bike packing (see page 36.) “There is so much out there in the natural world to go see and we do very little of it. Seeing these places in a different light, it’s an endless amount of things out there to do and see.”
“I was a little nerd kid. The Macintosh came along and you could make these things; You could sit at the computer and put things on a page and make a poster or a print or a magazine.” Instead of falling in love with programming like many kids his age, Bartz was enamored with the craft of design and creating new things. When not in front of a computer creating amazing graphics and designs, Bartz is found on his board in the mountains, riding a mountain bike or swinging a hockey stick on the ice, a hobby he picked up while living the Minnesota life and continues to this day. “When you’re out in the outdoors you look at a mountain, vista, river or valley and it’s huge and beautiful, but with a camera phone it never looks the same as when you were there.” But making you feel like you’re there is Bartz’s mission. “In Adventure Pro, with the imagery, we’re trying to be more visual and capture that visceral experience of being in the outdoors. There’ s a whole craft to trying to capture and nurture that imagery through the process.”
Brittany Cupp
Colleen Donley
Moving from Fort Wayne, Indiana, to the mountains for college, Cupp soon became a shop kid, falling in love with all outdoor activities. Cupp feels at peace in the mountains whether she’s rafting, mountain biking, SUPing, camping, hiking, running, doing yoga or one of a million other activities that she dubs her off-season activities training for boarding season. “It’s the reason why I live here,” she said, talking about snowboarding. “It’s my favorite way of expressing myself athletically. It’s almost like a spiritual outlet when I’m splitboarding. It’s slowing down and the quietness of connecting with nature. It’s meditative and helps challenge internal issues.” And she harnesses that experience to help Adventure Pro grow. “I have an advantage in my profession as a digital marketer, having one foot in that expertise and one foot in knowing and living the culture of outdoors. “ Cupp lives in Durango, Colorado, with her boyfriend, Logan Austin, and their adventure Chihuahua, Jerry. Follow her adventures on Instagram @bacupp
“Being outside. It resets everything. It’s a wonderful place to just let go.” Moving back to Dolores, Colorado, two years ago, Donley knew she was right where she needed to be. “I lived in Philly the last five years. I moved back to this area because it’s a gem and it’s where I wanted to be.” Hiking to high alpine lakes is her zen activity of choice. “You’re removed from the farthest place, from anywhere and it’s incredibly beautiful and it’s always a surprise. It’s about solitude, nature’s sounds and the challenge.” As advertising director for Adventure Pro, translating that energy, passion and joy of the wilderness to campaigns is her mission. “We get to connect with outdoor businesses, or even people who have a passion for the outdoors, and they’re a part of a community. I love being able to connect with a business owner and what their passion is. They can be part of this magazine that shows what the wilderness means.” Donley lives in Dolores, Colorado, with her cat, Yung Nico.
Photographer, Videographer and Writer
Digital Marketing and Audience Development
12 ADVENTUREPRO.us
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MOUNTAIN VITALS
LIGHTNING STRIKES IN COLORADO:
Mountain Monsoons
500,000
Cloud-To-Ground Discharges Per Year WATCH OUT FOR LIGHTNING IN THE COWBOY STATE: According to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, from 1959 to 2012, Wyoming had the highest lightning-caused death rate per capita in the nation.
SPRING The sun evaporates waters from the Gulf of Mexico and the Pacific and creates humid conditions over land. SUMMER Winds carry moist air over the southwest region, which has baked in the sun for months. Air rises like a helium balloon, creating a low-pressure trough in the lower atmosphere.
Hardrock 100
LATE SUMMER Moist air hits the mountains, rises, expands and cools. The air temperature decreases and the air cannot hold all the moisture so it condenses to form rain. Thunderstorms begin. Fast, everyday. That’s monsoon season. And monsoon season means lightning.
This issue, we take a look at one of the most revered mountain runs in the world, the Hardrock 100, a brutal hundred-mile trail run through the rugged San Juan Mountains. (Read more on page 58.)
Average elevation: 11,000 feet Highest point: 14,005 feet Lowest point: 7,792 feet Think it’s a bunch of youngsters out there? Guess again. Average age of Hardrock runner: 45
Summers mean bagging summits in the high country, waterfalls and wild flowers. And once you get up high, it’s mountaintops for miles. HIGHEST POINT IN THE UNITED STATES:
California’s Mount Whitney 14,498 feet 14 ADVENTUREPRO.us
How High are all These Mountains? COLORADO
Mount Elbert: 14,440 feet WYOMING
Gannett Peak: 13,804 feet
MONTANA
Granite Peak: 12,807 feet UTAH
Kings Peak: 13,584 feet
NEW MEXICO
Wheeler Peak: 13,167 feet ARIZONA
Humphreys Peak: 12,633 feet
G N I N N U R ROUND
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The fourth year they run 18 miles for 200 days. The fifth year, they run the 18 miles for 200 days, then finish that off with a weeklong fast with no sleep. The sixth year it’s 36 miles a day for 100 days, and on year seven, 52 miles a day for 100 days,
BE INSPIRED
then 18 miles a day for another 100 days. They’re not exactly in a modern runner’s kit and they’re making stops at numerous temples to worship. They also carry maps and texts to read from and chant along the way. Then there’s a cord and knife in case things get really bad; A thousand years of unmarked graves line the journey. The monks have reported heightened sensitivity like the ability to hear inaudible sounds and smell food for miles.
Lizard Head Cycling leads spectacular bicycle tours across the American West!
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LOWEST POINT IN THE UNITED STATES:
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Death Valley, 1913: 134 degrees COLDEST RECORDED TEMPERATURE IN THE UNITED STATES:
Roger’s Pass, Montana, 1954 70 degrees below zero
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SUMMER2017 15
GEAR BIN
OSPREY TEMPEST 20 The quiver killer of backpacks
Photos by Terrance Siemon
Meet Sara Knight, your typical mountain town woman with a good job, a nice smile and a hankering for trail running, mountain biking world class trails, kayaking wild rivers, high country hiking, traveling, backpacking, peak bagging and gallivanting across the West in her spare time. She wears cut-off shorts over her Lycra, loves a good scarf and needs a performance backpack – or seven - for her lifestyle. Enter the Tempest 20 by Osprey: a backpack that can do it all. Designed with a woman-specific fit, the Tempest has an adjustable harness and shoulder strap and sternum strap position system, quickly and easily customizable. A mesh back panel that Osprey calls AirScape means airflow and comfort - not sweaty and gross - and the BioStretch harness across the lumbar with its full wrap hip belt is designed for a stable riding pack under load. A hydration bladder (not included) goes in its own sleeve pocket.
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“It’s a great what-if pack,” Knight said after getting to know it. “At 20 liters there’s room for everything I need. The two hip pockets are probably my favorites. Whether I’m out on the trail and need a snack or downtown and need to grab my phone, the small things are always within reach.” When she did hit the trails, she didn’t always need the full capacity for runs and rides after work, but she did need a carry on for a cross-country trip to a wedding. It also started showing up in her office space, loaded with pens and folders, books, a water bottle and snacks. “There is plenty of room for an extra layer or when I ride my bike to work and carry a change of clothes,” she said. The LidLock feature is a cyclist’s favorite, perfect for shuttle runs in the desert or commuting on the trolley. “I can just clip my helmet right to my pack so everything stays in one place,” Knight said.
If it can handle that stuff: dirt and grit, trails and mud, it can take a 9 to 5. Trekking pole stash loops mean you can stow poles on more aggressive hikes and other features keep you going hands-free. There’s even an ice axe loop. Get rad, ladies! Osprey designed the Tempest with multi-use in mind: a quiver killer for backpacks. And that’s what is, an urbanfriendly pack with mountain savvy features. It might not be a special tool for a special job, but for active women like Knight, it’s one pack that can happily do the job of many. From the office to the trails, peaks to the airport, this thing can go anywhere. Tempest 6 - $75 Tempest 9 - $100 Tempest 20 - $110 Tempest 30 - $140 Tempest 40 - $160
JETBOIL The days of pumping, priming and praying are finally gone. We got our hands on a Jetboil Flash Cooking System intended for backpacking trips, but found it perfect for sharing soup on a hike or coffee at the crags. • Contained and snug in its own cup, the entire cooking system weighs less than a pound and is not much bigger than a fat water bottle. • Screw on an isobutane propane gas canister to the stove and mount the cup on the burner. Done. There’s even a quick stand to prevent accidents. • Just turn on the gas, push the igniter seated in the stove body, and you’re on. • The insulated temperature gauge on the outside of the cup turns bright yellow when water is boiling two cups are ready in about 2 minutes. • The FluxRing cooking cup that comes with the system is an aluminum cup with a ring that creates a highly efficient heat transfer property. The stainless steel burner heats it up lightning fast. • The sipper lid works as a strainer with an aftermarket coffee press. You’d think it would melt, but it doesn’t. An additional cup fits over the bottom of system and doubles as a measuring cup. We’ve used this thing everywhere. While the igniter can be fussy, it always ends up working. It lives in our camp kit and makes camp life easier. $99.95
PETZL e+LITE
When a world-renowned ultra runner tells you he likes to travel light and still carries a Petzl e+LITE everywhere he goes, take heed. The e+LITE is billed as an emergency headlamp. It won’t turn night into day, but it will make things substantially better if your plans go south. If things go well, you’ll never know it was there. Via a simple adjustment dial/lever the headlamp toggles through settings like a surprising 50-lumen brightness – think household flashlight – to a dim setting, plus the highly-recognizable red LED. Both have a strobe option and there’s even a whistle on the minimal elastic headband. Still don’t want to carry a headlamp? This thing only weights 26 grams. It’s worth the hump. The e+LITE runs on two common lithium watch batteries that can be stored and forgotten in your pack for up to 10 years, and we’ve heard reports of good power for hours during multiple unplanned epics. Good for a half hour, one meter under water, it can withstand temps from 22 degrees below to 140 degrees. And it’s small. While you can get a brighter light for a similar price, it will be three times the size. The nifty little storage capsule that it comes with is nice, but could begin to work against the unnoticeable presence that makes the e+LITE so crafty. $29.95
Check out our gear closet. It’s getting full. ADVENTUREPRO.us/gear
TAILWIND NUTRITION A few years ago, an endearing volunteer at a trail running race handed us a cup of a clear, mild flavored drink at the mile nine aid station. By mile 11, we noticed a little pep in our step. The drink, Tailwind Nutrition, and their story is a kick in the pants. Colorado endurance athlete Jeff Vierling was tired of upset stomachs, over hydrating on syrupy sugar mixes and running around with a belly full of protein paste. He started experimenting in the kitchen. A scoop of electrolytes, maybe a little magnesium and potassium. A dash of carbs here, a pinch of sea salt there. With his mixer spewing out clouds of powder, it turns out he was on to something. “He finally came up with his formula, started riding with it, and then his friends started asking for bags,” said Tailwind co-founder and Jeff’s wife, Jenny Vierling. “That’s probably when he started thinking about it as a business.” Then it was off to the Leadville 100, a grueling hundred mile bike race in the Colorado Rockies, to see what some guinea pigs had to say. “The feedback was really positive so we did an initial run of 500 units through a co-packer and started selling it on a website,” Vierling said. To this day, every direct order gets a handwritten note and the customer’s name on the bag. And that’s how you get Tailwind Nutrition, produced and packaged where the Vierlings live, Durango, Colorado. 30 Servings for $25.95 2 Servings for $2.25 SUMMER2017 17
GEAR
Alpacka Rafts W
hat if the trail didn’t stop at the water’s edge? What if those little blue lines on the map were a passage? When Thor Tingey was a student at Colorado Mountain College in 1996, he began applying for adventure grants to fund precarious treks across Alaskan backcountry. His adventures, like a three-month traverse of the Brooks Mountain Range, were inspired by worldrenowned modern explorer and family friend Roman Dial. They were ambitious, physical, they demanded water crossings, climbing mountains, and, certainly, a sense of humor. “I met with Roman and he was like, ‘You gotta try packrafting, it’s great,’” Thor said from the Alpacka headquarters in Mancos, Colorado. Dial was talking about a travel method on the fringe of even the wildest adventures, a practice developed by a group in Alaska known as the Alaska Crazies involving a portable inflatable boat that came out only when needed to let nothing interfere with exploration. “You can cross mountain ranges, go up and over things and float down the other side,” Dial told Thor. But Dial included a splash of cold water. “You’ll need a good pack raft, but those don’t really exist.” Thor went on his adventures, learning the hard way what Dial meant. The $80 flimsy boats he got from box stores were no match for the terrain. Even custom boats he found disintegrated. Enter Sheri Tingey, an Alaskan-hardened Jackson Hole transplant who ran her own ski clothing company for years in Wyoming - and Thor’s mom. She had been sidetracked with health issues for years, and just about the time she was regaining her health, Thor returned home with a shredded boat. When he left for the mountains (two days after returning from summiting 18 ADVENTUREPRO.us
Denali) his boat was three pounds. When he returned, the boat was an unrecognizable pile of patches and duct tape tipping 15 pounds. “He dumps this thing on my table and says, ‘Mom, can you build me a boat?’” Across time, young boys have asked their moms to fix their toys, but this wasn’t such a stretch. In fact, it was perfect. A former ski bum who founded an outdoor clothing company, she knew how to sew. She knew how to glue. She knew fabrics and materials, how to design and she knew something else: water. Next to winter skiing, kayaking was her love. “It was everything I ever cared about,” she said. “It was water, it was land, it was hiking, it was climbing.” And she also knew how to run a business. “Nobody was making packrafts,” she said. “It wasn’t really an idea. It was a concept. What happened with these boats is you’d get about a mile before your boat blew, so you’d take 12 yards of duct tape and put it back together,” she said. “It wasn’t a matter if you were going to sink, it was how far could you get before you would sink. That was packrafting. We didn’t invent packrafting, we invented the modern packraft.” She’s good at thinking out-of-the-box. “She’ll just wake up in the middle of the night and say, ‘why don’t we try this?’” Thor said. “It walks an absolute divide between land and water,” she said. “A packraft has to be built like your lightest, ultra mountaineering gear, but be as durable as what you put on the water. Those early boats, those were made of tissue paper.” Seventeen years later and Alpacka Rafts is making waves in the outdoor industry, blending two worlds together. With a virtually indestructible sub 5-pound
inflatable boat that handles more like a kayak and stuffs in your pack, they’ve redefined adventure. Even the inflation system is beautifully simple, a 2-ounce bag that captures air like a child catching butterflies with a pillowcase, then squeezing the air out by bending forward. Through a nozzle, the bag inflates the boat, and the boat gets finished off with lungpower. “It just completely changes the way you look at wilderness travel,” Sheri said. “People do everything under the sun with them. It takes all those little blue lines you see on a topo map and turns them into trails.” ADVENTURES HAVE TAKEN ON NEW MEANING One couple left Seattle, trekking and packrafting to the Aleutian Islands, using their boats as sledges to pull their gear behind skis during winter. Others used the boats to navigate the inhospitable Lost Coast of Alaska. People have followed the Amazon in South America, explored forgotten creeks in Utah canyon country and found their way into places in New Zealand where as few as two people have ever even been, all with an Alpacka Raft. Packrafting isn’t a boating thing; It’s an adventure thing, a new kind of adventure. Backpack 10 miles to the put in and float back to your car. “And you don’t need much water for these things to float,” Thor said. “People realize, ‘oh, I can do such a cool trip.’” For Sheri, nourishing an outdoor culture all its own is a windfall. Establishing a company, creating a niche and sharing that with her son was all entirely unexpected. She knew her story wasn’t finished, and when her son asked her for help, that became a new chapter. “Thor walks through the door with this boat,” she said. “And it was a door that opened my life again.”
Photo courtesy Alpacka Rafts
“People do everything under the sun with them. It takes all those little blue lines you see on a topo map and turns them into trails.” Photo courtesy Alpacka Rafts
- Sheri Tingey
Photo by Terrance Siemon
Your Summer is Full of Exploring.
We’re here when you need us.
Call 911 or go to
Call (970) 564-1037 or visit
For: chest pain · major head injury · severe fracture · uncontrolled bleeding · seizure · shock · sudden paralysis · loss of vision · loss of consciousness · fever in an infant less than six months old · high fever · asthma attack · severe burns · snake bite or poisoning
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SUMMER2017 19
SERENDIPITY Sunrise at Mesa Arch, Canyonlands National Park A short hike leads to this natural arch in the Island in the Sky District at Canyonlands National Park located in southeast Utah. Spanning nearly 50 feet across the edge of a mesa, the arch provides a window view into truly wild and vacant desert solitude. It’s heavily visited, but getting there at dawn or dusk rewards visitors with surreal and magical shades of light.
Photo by Terrance Siemon
20  ADVENTUREPRO.us
SUMMER2017 21
Photo by Michelle McCarron,
Photo courtesy Savor Summit
HIT LIST U T A H
Photo courtesy Craft Lake City
Austen Diamond Photography, courtesy Ogden Music Festival
Photo by Ryan Carter, courtesy World Folkfest
Your guide to events in the Southwest and beyond Have something going on? Share it here. Don’t miss out. ADVENTUREPRO.us/events
OGDEN MUSIC FESTIVAL OGDEN, JUNE 2-4 www.ofoam.org Featuring some of the top acoustic artists from around the country, this festival is a great time to camp out, enjoy the area’s bike trails and chill out to the sounds of fiddles, banjos and the moaning of an upright bass. Ogden is an epicenter of the outdoors, and a great place for a fest.
SAVOR THE SUMMIT PARK CITY, JUNE 17 www.parkcityrestaurants.com/savor-the-summit Dubbed the area’s largest outdoor dinner party, this the perfect way to learn that Park City is far more than just a world class ski town. Reserve your spot and saddle up to a table right on Main Street and enjoy great food and ideal Wasatch weather.
UTAH ARTS FESTIVAL SALT LAKE CITY, JUNE 22-25 www.uaf.org Don’t be fooled. This city knows how to party, arty. Beer, art and music collide for a creative collaboration in downtown Salt Lake. Performers on six stages join literary, visual and film artists in this incredible festival that draws in more than 80,000 people each year.
SPRINGVILLE WORLD FOLKFEST SPRINGVILLE, JULY 31-AUG. 5 www.worldfolkfest.dreamhosters.com Folk music and dance take over this small town during its annual festival that celebrates the craft of artists from nearly 50 countries. Dance, sing and cheer on visiting performers.
BEAR LAKE RASPBERRY DAYS BEAR LAKE, AUG. 3-5 www.bearlake.org/events/raspberry-days Tourists travel to this small lake in early August to gather raspberries and to sample the many treats (don’t miss the famous raspberry shake.) This is the best of small-town extravaganzas featuring a rodeo, parade, fireworks and craft booths.
CRAFT LAKE CITY DIY FESTIVAL SALT LAKE CITY, AUG. 11-14 www.craftlakecity.com/diy-festival This DIY (Do-It-Yourself) Fest brings the best of the Etsy world to one place. Grab your wallet and find some of the most creative works in art, vintage, food and even engineering (as in hackers) at this unique event.
WESTERN LEGENDS ROUNDUP KANAB, AUG. 24-26
Photo courtesy Utah Arts Festival
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www.westernlegendsroundup.com Film, music, poetry and all things Western collide during this throwback roundup. Book tickets for a wagon train that moseys past some of Utah’s signature views: Bryce Canyon National Park to Tropic, past the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument and into Kanab. Not up for a trail ride? Just pick up with the team in Kanab and enjoy two days of throwback festivities.
Photo courtesy Grand Targhee Resort
HIT LIST
W Y O M I N G Photo courtesy Noah Wetzel Photos courtesy Cheyenne Frontier Days
JACKSON HOLE RODEO JACKSON HOLE, EVERY WEDNESDAY AND SATURDAY UNTIL MEMORIAL DAY
MANITOU SPRINGS WINE FESTIVAL MANITOU SPRINGS, JUNE 4
www.manitousprings.org www.jhrodeo.com More than 30 Colorado-based wineries participate in this fest held at Memorial Park. This is the West. When visiting Wyoming, seeing an authentic rodeo is simply a must-do Enjoy the views as you chill with your half-full Colorado Wine Festival glass that comes and this one is perfect. This rodeo has been a staple in Jackson Hole for more than 100 with your ticket purchase. years. Check out these crazy cowboys, moody bucking horses and more! TELLURIDE BLUEGRASS FESTIVAL TELLURIDE, JUNE 15-18
GRAND TETON MUSIC FESTIVAL JACKSON HOLE, JULY 3-AUG. 20
www.gtmf.org For six weeks, the Grand Teton Music Festival highlights visiting artists. This year, the classical music celebration features Yo-Yo Ma, Yefim Bronfman, Garrick Ohlsson and Jeannette Sorrell. These featured artists play alone or with the Festival Orchestra, showcasing the world of classical music.
www.bluegrass.com/telluride Telluride hosts a different festival nearly every weekend during summer, from hot air balloons to wine, but the Bluegrass Festival is one of their best-known. This year’s fourday fest features Norah Jones, Jason Mraz & His Superband, Dierks Bentley and more. The atmosphere is chill, the music is inspiring and the weekend will go down in the books as a top day-in-a-mountain-town experience.
TARGHEE FEST MUSIC FESTIVAL ALTA, JULY 14-16
BRECK BIKE WEEK BRECKENRIDGE, JUNE 21-25
www.grandtarghee.com/summer-music-festivals/targhee-summer-music-fest Grab a drink and a piece of dirt, settle in and let the sounds of Michael Franti & Spearhead, Leftover Salmon or Galactic waft your way as you frolic under the Teton Mountains. Enjoy the best life has to offer at 7,800 feet.
CHEYENNE FRONTIER DAYS CHEYENNE, JULY 21-30
www.gobreck.com/events/breck-bike-week Enjoy mountain and road bike demos, clinics and guided tours all while surrounded by the beautiful scenery of Breckenridge. Check out the best of the week with a guided campfire ride, a women’s mountain bike clinic, or just sip a beer while hitting up the happy hour maintenance clinics.
www.cfdrodeo.com Get a taste of the West at Cheyenne’s Frontier Days. Off the beaten path, this celebration of all things cowboy includes everything from pancake breakfasts to PRCA rodeos, parades through town and an amazing carnival. Grab a cowboy, or cowgirl, kick your boots up and revel in the party.
GREELEY STAMPEDE GREELEY, JUNE 23–JULY 4 www.greeleystampede.org Even if you’re not a little bit country, you can pretend to be this week! Attend a real rodeo, see top country acts including Toby Keith and Clay Walker, or watch youngsters try for their 8 seconds - on a sheep - during the Sheep Stampede competition.
GRAND TARGHEE BLUEGRASS FESTIVAL ALTA, AUG. 11-13
COLORADO BREWERS’ FESTIVAL FORT COLLINS - JUNE 24-25
www.grandtarghee.com/event/grand-targhee-bluegrass-festival Featuring The Infamous Stringdusters, Sam Bush Band, Tim O’Brien Band and more than 10 other bluegrass musicians, this festival is a do-not-miss. Camp out and celebrate the festival’s 30th year in style.
www.downtownfortcollins.com/events/colorado-brewers-festival Home to nearly 150 craft breweries, Colorado is known for its tasty beers. And this is the best fest to check out a large swath of them. More than 50 breweries are featured, and this year’s festival has a new “glass.” Get there and get your drink on. continued>> SUMMER2017 23
Photo courtesy Hopi Festival of Arts & Culture
Photo courtesy Austyn Dineen/Breckenridge Tourism Office Photo courtesy Red Rock Farms Lavendar Festival
HIT LIST
C O L O R A D O
HIT LIST A R I Z O N A
Photo courtesy Telluride Bluegrass Festival
Photo by Erin Baiano
CRESTED BUTTE WILDFLOWER FESTIVAL CRESTED BUTTE, JULY 7–16 www.crestedbuttewildflowerfestival.com Dubbed the Wildflower Capital of Colorado, Crested Butte is one of our favorite places. (It’s also one of the places where mountain biking got its start. Read more on page 50.) This festival features 200 events over 10 days, ranging from hikes to art and photography workshops, edible workshops and information on conservation. Take a day or even the full two weeks and explore this gorgeous gem.
HOT AIR BALLOON RODEO & ART IN THE PARK STEAMBOAT SPRINGS, JULY 8-9
Photo courtesy Flagstaff Brews & Blues
MADE IN THE SHADE BEER TASTING FESTIVAL FLAGSTAFF, JUNE 10 www.azbeer.com Sample up to 24 Arizona microbrews as you relax in the Pepsi Amphitheater, a natural forest bowl in Fort Tuthill County Park that boasts being the largest outdoor venue in Arizona. Can’t fit this event into your schedule? Don’t worry, this fest hits Tucson in October.
FLAGSTAFF BLUES & BREWS FESTIVAL FLAGSTAFF, JUNE 10
www.flagstaffblues.com www.steamboatchamber.com/info/events/sbcccalendarevent.hot.air.balloon.rodeo.item.asp Beer and music collide. Join the North Mississippi Allstars, Chubby Carrier and the Bayou Think they’re joking when they call this a rodeo? Nope. Hot air balloon pilots go through a Swamp Band, Victor Wainwright and the Wildroots and more for an amazing day of series of challenges and pilots are awarded prizes for their talents. After the rodeo, check libations and music. out the balloon glow or the art displayed at Art in the Park. LAVENDER FESTIVAL CONCHO, JUNE 22-25; JUNE 29-JULY 2
VAIL INTERNATIONAL DANCE FESTIVAL VAIL, JULY 29-AUG. 12
www.redrockfarms.com/lavender-festival www.vvf.org/arts/vail-international-dance-festival Learn how to grow and cook with lavender or just enjoy a wine tasting and cut your own This two-week celebration of all things dance focuses on a different dance event each lavender. Live music from The Lakesiders Band and the wafting smell of fresh-cut herbs night. See the finest ballet has to offer and be inspired. make for a relaxing and invigorating weekend.
COLORADO STATE FAIR PUEBLO, AUG. 25-SEPT. 4
FLAGSTAFF FOLK FESTIVAL FLAGSTAFF, JUNE 24-25
www.coloradostatefair.com This isn’t your normal state fair, this is a state fair Colorado-style. Green chiles, pet rock Olympics, homebrew and hobby wine competitions join the traditional livestock and baking competitions, carnival rides and a cornucopia of fried foods.
www.flagfolkfest.org Get your acoustic vibe on with this folk festival in northern Arizona. More than 100 acts will be showcased on five stages – and that’s not including the jam sessions and workshops peppered across the area. At $5 a person, this event is not only one of the least expensive, it also offers the most bang for your buck.
TASTE OF COLORADO DENVER, SEPT. 1-4
www.atasteofcolorado.com HOPI FESTIVAL OF ARTS & CULTURE FLAGSTAFF, JULY 1-2 Fifty restaurants, six stages and more that 275 arts and crafts booths make for a great www.musnaz.org/heritage/hopi-festival event in downtown Denver. Grab a plate and saddle up to taste food from some of the top Celebrate traditional Hopi art, music, dancing and food. Learn the history of katsina dolls, restaurants in the Mile High City. how Hopi jewelry is made and purchase some handmade, authentic art to take home. 24 ADVENTUREPRO.us
Photo courtesy Silver City Arts & Cultural District
It’s riding season!
come test ride the bike of your dreams spring demo fest June 10th Pivot, Kona, Santa Cruz, Scott, and Yeti
Photo courtesy Burning of Zozobra
2ndavesports.com
HIT LIST N E W
M E X I C O Photo courtesy Juliana Halvorson 253621
SUMMERFEST PAJARITO, JUNE 10 www.skipajarito.com Local microbreweries and live music create a cool vibe for this festival in the mountains of Northern New Mexico. Grab the commemorative pint glass that comes with your ticket and enjoy this taste of the Land of Enchantment.
ROSWELL UFO FESTIVAL ROSWELL, JUNE 29-JULY 2 www.ufofestivalroswell.com Seventy years after an unidentified flying object crashed northwest of Roswell, this small rural New Mexican town continues to celebrate the legacy of what many swear truly happened. This festival clearly promises the best time in the galaxy. And it delivers with a UFO Festival Light Parade, a series of speakers about aliens and UFOs and an alien pet costume contest.
ADVENTURE INSPIRED NUTRITION
TAOS PUEBLO POWWOW TAOS, JULY 7-9 www.taospueblopowwow.com Singing and dancing competitions, arts, crafts, food and fun comprise this annual powwow. It’s a social event featuring some of the top dancers from across the nation right next to the Taos Plaza.
MARIACHI SPECTACULAR ALBUQUERQUE, JULY 12-15 www.mariachispectacular.com Somberos, great music and matching outfits: Welcome to the Mariachi Spectacular. Concerts, competitions, music workshops and a salute to mariachi history make you feel like you’re living in a whole new culture. Immerse yourself in this magical musical display. Es myi divertido!
DELICIOUS AL L NATU RAL
CLAY FESTIVAL SILVER CITY, JULY 22-30 www.clayfestival.com Get dirty! This party celebrates all things clay. Join local artists as they exhibit and sell some of their most creative works of art in distinctive Silver City. Attend workshops, lectures or the CLAYfest Market and learn all about clay creations.
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BURNING OF ZOZOBRA/FIESTAS DE SANTA FE SANTA FE, SEPT. 1/SEPT. 1-10 www.burnzozobra.com The Burning of Zozobra kicks off the Fiestas de Santa Fe. The night begins with live music and shortly thereafter, the burning of Zozobra, also called Old Man Gloom, begins. Be forewarned, this one’s odd. Zozobra is a 50-foot puppet made of muslin, symbolizing the enemy of all that is good. The crowd dances as he is burned and gloom is gone for yet another year.
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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Photos by Leah VanCulin, Bronson Torres, Colton Andersen, Jesse Kleinschmidt and Bee Mathis.
ALTITUDE ADJUSTMENT
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Out in it. Getting out. Out there. The real deal.
Adventure Pro wants to showcase people getting after it all over the incredible landscape in which we live. Here are a few of our favorite shots sent in from our friends and fans. If you have a great photo, we’d love to see it. If we like it, we’ll run it in our summer edition and give you cred.
Send pics to info@adventurepro.us
SUMMER2017 27
ALTITUDE ADJUSTMENT For the adventurer in all of us.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT TO RIGHT: Photos by Craig Lloyd, Patrick Wright, TJ “Trail Boss” Rifkin, Bronson Torres and Craig Lloyd.
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SPONSORED CONTENT
Be Prepared with Layers A
nyone who’s spent a summer in the Rockies knows a beautiful sunny day can morph into anything from a thunderstorm to a powder day – and back again – in a matter of hours. How do you dress and what do you pack when the forecast calls for four seasons in a day? We spoke to a technical apparel expert to get the low down on the fine art of layering. “Layering is the process of wearing and/or packing multiple pieces of clothing to stay comfortable, warm, and dry,” says Michelle Brittain, the Clothing Buyer at Backcountry Experience in Durango, CO. When Brittain moved to Colorado several years ago, she quickly discovered the unique climate and weather patterns called for an equally unique approach to getting dressed in the morning. “Due to the variable weather of Colorado, especially in the high country, layering is vital!”, she says. Brittain has studied the ins and outs of technical apparel and layering systems, from the difference in GORE-TEX membranes to the microns of merino wool. She works to provide a diverse range of technical apparel that functions in unison as a layering system for all weather conditions. When you break it down, a complete and efficient layering system is quite simple. Brittain says it’s as easy as mixing a base layer, mid-layer, and shell.
For those among us who aren’t total gear wonks, here’s a quick look at the outdoorist dictionary: Base layer | noun | \`b as lay·er \ A moisture-wicking shirt designed to be worn next to skin. Synthetic or merino wool fabrics help manage sweat and heat. Mid-layer | noun | \`mid lay·er \ The insulating component of your layering system. Typically either a synthetic or down jacket or vest.
Base Layer
Synthetic Mid Layer
Shell layer | noun | \`shel lay·er \ This is your waterproof rain jacket which will not only protect you from an unexpected downpour, but also wind chill. This, according to Brittain, is your basic layering system. You can easily add or remove components depending on the anticipated weather conditions. The end goal is that you’re cool enough on the climb up, warm enough on the hike down, and prepared for inclement weather. A lot of beginning hikers and backpackers end up carrying too many clothes because they’re concerned about getting cold. Brittain reminds us that if you’ve built a good layering system, you shouldn’t need to pack your entire closet. When you’ve got the right gear, each layer works in tandem with the other to keep you warm and dry, or cool and breezy depending on the weather. Brittain teaches her staff to help customers identify the best layering components for their needs and outdoor ambitions. She says that once you’ve put together the right kit, you’ll be prepared for any adventure Colorado throws your way.
Synthetic Mid Layer
Shell Layer
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Start Your JOURNEY With Us . . . New Mexico’s Largest Independent Outdoor Shop Fin
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Trusted Source of Gear for over 40 years 113 N Plaza Taos, NM • 575-758-9292 www.taosmountainoutfitters.com • Open 7 days a week Sun: 10am - 6pm • Mon – Wed: 9am – 6pm • Thu – Sat: 9am – 8pm
TAOS MOUNTAIN OUTFITTERS Doing what feels right for the community and business
D
o you want to support companies that are giving back? Today, consumers and businesses have the power of choice; they can make their money work for them and the things they believe in. It’s called Corporate Social Responsibility. Corporate Citizenship. Green Business. An upward movement where companies are infusing their values into their business models. A bike shop supports trail work. A coffee shop supports fair trade. It’s a way to give back: to the environment, to their community and their employees. Companies like Patagonia and others have shown they can flourish without sacrifice. In fact, social and environmental stewardship have become drivers of their business model, and people are showing their support. Speaking with their dollars. It’s more than just mindful business. It’s a mindset. On a recent visit to Taos, we found ourselves in a gear shop that has it. Taos Mountain Outfitters has been a staple retail location in the Taos plaza for over 40 years. Last July, Bill Gaydosh, a former nuclear waste engineer from Washington, purchased the shop with a simple mission: Provide gear to outdoor enthusiasts while operating as environmentally and socially sound as possible. We spoke with Gaydosh about his philosophy and philanthropy.
A little over a year ago I was working on a nuclear weapon cleanup project and I realized that I just didn’t want to do this anymore. I called my wife and told her that I wanted to do something that made a positive impact on people and the environment. It was no surprise that she fully supported my decision. My wife and I met in New Mexico and lived in Santa Fe for a period of time. When we visited Taos, we spent a week not only learning about the store, but discovering the area and visiting with locals. We thought this could be perfect. By the end of the week, it felt RIGHT. We went to work to make it happen.
What were the main considerations that shaped the venture to re-launch TMO? We have always been aware that nature is not a right it is a privilege. Our motto is to “love the land” and we wanted to make sure what we do follows these principles. An important part of what we do every day is to educate people about the surrounding environment. Our goal is to make a connection with our customers on a personal level so we can provide them with our best advice to make their journey a memorable one. One of the other things we realized initially is that most people have multiple jobs to make ends meet. We decided that our employees would make a livable wage by working only at TMO. With that being said, we wanted to hire the right people— Individuals who share our passion and live the lifestyle. Tell us about your journey to own Taos Mountain Outfitters. The first 10 percent of our net profits support local My wife and I always had a passion for the outdoors and charities and the second 10 perecent goes to our employees loved being near the mountains. We always knew that in the form of bonuses. Additionally, we established a 401K someday we would return to our roots. plan for all employees regardless of employment status. 30 ADVENTUREPRO.us
SPONSORED CONTENT How do you decide on what product lines to bring in? We work with companies that are good stewards in business; brands that support efforts preserving the environment and giving back to communities. For example, Patagonia is offering grants to their retailers for local conservation programs. We also look at how a company is reducing their carbon footprint. Excessive product packaging is wasteful. Lastly, we look for cool products with cool stories. New startups that have the same core values as we do. As a local Taos business, we want to promote other local and regional businesses so we all can succeed. What advice do you have for other retailers looking to adopt a corporate responsible business model? In short, trust your gut and surround yourself with the right people. Make sure to make a comprehensive list of questions on your business objectives, operating principles, and societal goals. If it is a viable opportunity and it feels right, you are going to thrive.
Under Bill’s ownership, Taos Mountain Outfitter will be celebrating their first anniversary on July 15th with an event and raffle. Raffle entries can be obtained by dropping off non-perishable food items starting in May. All proceeds of the event will be donated to the local food shelf. SUMMER2017
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TREASURE MAP
Photos courtesy Destination Missoula
Down by the River These Western water towns should be on every river runner’s list Jackson, Wyoming
Jackson isn’t just for ski bums. The Snake River curls through the landscape, Yellowstone and Grand Teton country, two staggering national parks that define wild and scenic western America. “I think that Jackson Hole and that whole area is the most beautiful place on earth,” says veteran guide Cliff Hance with OARS Whitewater and Travel. “It’s just spectacular.” The Snake River is wide and deep with a variety of opportunities and endless miles of fishing, rafting and kayaking. It has it all, from Class II and III whitewater to wildlife viewing float trips, crashing waves to swimming holes, plus Yellowstone and Jackson lakes make for incredible flat-water outings.
Missoula, Montana
This place might be the best kept whitewater secret around. With three rivers converging right in town - The Bitter Root, The Black Foot and Clark Fork - there’s something for everyone, from quality fly fishing and wildlife to flat-water paddling to Class III and IV whitewater and a killer surf spot: Brennan’s Wave. “We’re lucky here,” says Mike Johnston, owner of Montana River Guides. “People haven’t realized what a river mecca Missoula is.” And the city is catching on. Parks and trails have sprouted along the banks and businesses are building toward the waves instead of against them. “We’re not nearly as crowded as other parts of the country,” Johnston said. “(But) in 20 years, this will be everybody’s whitewater destination.” 32 ADVENTUREPRO.us
Boise, Idaho
The Greenbelt is a 26-mile park/paved path lining the beloved Boise River. This favorite for relaxing floating and boating slices its way through the city of 215,000, with access to 20 parks, terrific trail hiking, biking and running opportunities, aesthetic foot bridges and even an outdoor amphitheater. The Boise River Whitewater Park draws local paddlers, but for bigger water, head an hour out of town to the north and south forks of the Payette River. “It’s a big river system,” says Georgia Lawler of Idaho Whitewater Unlimited. “The rivers are fed out of two reservoirs, so we’re pretty much guaranteed water. We don’t run out.”
Buena Vista, Colorado
The Arkansas River and all its glory feature perhaps the most popular stretch of whitewater in the United States: Browns Canyon, a few miles south of Buena Vista, a growing outdoor community emerging as one of the coolest adventure towns in the Rocky Mountain West. North of town are the famous Numbers Rapids, and the whitewater park, practically downtown, has seven manmade features that draw in paddlers. “The unique thing about it is the access,” says Travis Hochard of River Runners in Buena Vista. “Day use, put ins, take outs and evening runs are no problem.” Hochard said the thriving local commercial rafting industry saw more some 220,000 guests in 2016, bringing a flood of river-minded people, aspiring guides, river-enthusiast families and seasoned river runners. “It’s a great place, and a great place to get people into paddling.”
From whitewater river trips to stand up paddle boarding to scenic cruises, we make a splash. ADVENTUREPRO.us/river Photo courtesy Cliff Ghiglieri
Photo courtesy The Durango Herald
Photo by Brandon Mathis
Photo courtesy Destination Missoula
Photo courtesy Cliff Ghiglieri
Durango, Colorado
Flagstaff, Arizona
This Northern Arizona mountain town doesn’t exactly scream river running when you roll through. Really, only one river to comes to mind when boaters are anywhere near, and it’s a good two hours away. But, that’s OK, because when you’re talking about the Grand Canyon, everything takes a little more planning. “There’s really no other trip you can do in the West, in America or even in the world that’s quite like going down the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon,” says Cliff Hance, a 12-year guide with OARS Whitewater and Adventure Travel. “They’re two-week-long river trips. You have to go 277 miles. If you’re rowing down, that’s the minimum length. It’s a full on expedition.”
The Animas River runs right through the heart of this Southwestern adventure city. Calm waters make for meandering paddles up stream, with Class II to IV whitewater sections cresting in throughout city limits, but that’s not all. “You’ve got a number of classic river runs in the area,” says 4 Corners River Sports manager Matt Gerhardt. “The Upper Animas, Vallecito Creek, the San Juan, the Colorado, the Chama and some years the Dolores, all those being close and accessible.” Summers see carloads of tubers, stacks of boats pulled behind full buses of rafters while kayaks towed on bicycle trailers stream up and down the paved Animas River Trail. SUPs top roof racks and flat water everywhere and surfers break waves in the Santa Taos, New Mexico Rita Whitewater Park. And 4 Corners River Sports, perched on the banks of the Animas, Northern New Mexico is full of mountains and Taos sits at the epicenter of them. It’s a in business for nearly 35 years, is a hub for river rats. Gerhardt said the scene explodes ski town, a mountain town, an artistic community, a pueblo and a booming river town. every season. “It’s the Animas being here in town, and the people it attracts.” The Rio Grande Gorge is 1,000 feet deep with an expedition feel that takes boaters into another world. Known for The Taos Box, The Race Course, the Gorge, there is Moab, Utah far more than meets the eye, according to Matt Guntram, who owns New Mexico This is no secret stash. The mighty Colorado River runs right through the canyon Whitewater Adventures with his wife, Wendy. country surrounding Moab. “There are so many great sections,” Guntram said. “The Ute Mountain stretch, The The river offers up a variety of adventures: easy-to-get-to put ins and take outs for Razor Blade, the La Junta. I’ve never been in a canyon that is inaccessible, deep and cruiser day floats, the Class IV and V whitewater of Westwater Canyon, tubing, SUP big feeling that you can get in and out of in one day.” tours, lunch spots on sandy beaches and multi-day excursions deep into the desert From a mellow float trip to the raging Class V spring runoffs closed to commercial backcountry. boating, and other nearby waters like the Rio Chama, Rio Pueblo and others, this is Wildlife on sandbars is fun to watch, camping opportunities line the banks and day the best of New Mexico for a river lover. Plus, the Rio Grande season lasts from March play spots like Gold Bar Rim make for nice lazy afternoons. through October, a longer season than other mountain waters.
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CURRENT CONDITIONS
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Photos and story by BEN GAVELDA
Singletrack Sleepover Bike packing delivers the freedom of the hills
A
ny mountain bike is capable of bike packing. You don’t need to shell out thousands of dollars on a special bike for a few nights of trailside slumber. Nor do you need to set out on a weeklong expedition to get a taste of bike packing. You, your bike, a light camp kit and a bit of humility and determination can shed light on new landscapes and trails. LOAD UP A decent daypack and your regular rig loaded with handlebar and seat bags from Revelate Designs is the preferred setup for hauling gear. Adding a bit more pressure in your tires and suspension will accommodate the weight and still offer a supple ride. If you really want a svelte setup check out Durango’s Bedrock Bags or Flagstaff’s Rogue Panda Designs for a custom-made satchel to fit your frame. ALL ABOARD A logistical hurdle is shuttling bikes and people before and after the ride. For our trip, we found a perfect route and a simple solution on the Colorado Trail: taking the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad into the mountains from Durango, then riding 80 miles of Colorado Trail back to town. The train is bike-friendly, but has limited space. Be sure to call ahead of time and arrange bike transport in one of the cargo cars. DINING OUT The possibilities open up when you can break up a daunting A to B with a night or two of rest. Longer endeavors might require a stop in civilization for supplies or a food cache dropped ahead of time unless you truly crave freeze-dried meals. GOLDEN HOUR So often we only see the trail and mountains in the middle of day, yet early mornings and evenings are when these landscapes come alive. So rarely do we get to see such wild places in different light. The ability to pull off the trail, indulge in the environment and sleep wherever is quite possibly the most beautiful part of bike packing. WILD AND FREE The mountains are lined with opportunities: a web of singletrack, jeep road and occasional pavement where one can easily string along a series of paths. The elevation and distances present formidable challenges especially when your bike nearly doubles in weight. Straightforward rides like a section of the Colorado Trail are easy to access, but knowing you have a camp on wheels will soon change the way you look at a map. With the right gear, a good travel plan and a dose of grit you can ride into the sunset. SUMMER2017 37
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Get Your Bock at The Block The Golden Block Brewery: a taste of the Old West
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estled in a Rocky Mountain Valley at 9,000 feet above sea level, you’ll find Silverton, Colorado, a San Juan Mountain mining boom town that’s turned over its hard rock roots to become a bustling summer destination. Crowned with soaring alpine peaks, the scenery alone draws visitors from all over the world.
A TASTE OF HISTORY Lifelong Silverton locals Molly Barela and her husband Floyd decided they wanted to share their love for their town and the mountains around it. So, The Golden Block Brewery opened its doors in a mason brick building completed in 1903 on historic Green Street, Silverton’s main avenue and the only paved street in town. “Back in the late 1800s, this was known as the Golden Block,” says Molly Barela. “Wealthy merchants, stakeholders in the town, people who were making money were coming in and buying up this block.” The entire 1200 block of Green Street was prime real estate. Mining was booming, investors were hungry for their next jackpot and everyone was hoping to strike it rich. Today Silverton is a living museum. Victorian architecture has been magnificently kept. Here, the old west is alive. A steam engine train rolls in every summer day from Durango loaded with visitors who come to see an entire town that’s a National Historic Landmark District. Even Wyatt Earp dealt cards here, at the Arlington Saloon. Stories of bar bets gone bad, wild saloon shoot outs and rough and rugged miners galore.
GOLDEN OPPORTUNITIES Today adventure seekers descend from the mountains and into this rural hamlet. Jeepers tour the mining roads. Climbers are lured to the sea of summits; ultra distance runners romanticize the mountain trails. Skiers and mountaineers flock here during winter. Geologists read the open book of natural history among the raw exposed rocks, and history buffs find magic in halls of archives and relics that remain. Just getting to Silverton is an adventure. The U.S. Highway 550 in and out of town, the Million Dollar Highway, is known as one of the most spectacular, and intrepid roads in the country.
MEET YOU AT THE BLOCK
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All that adventure is reason to head for the Block. Their selection of pizzas, fired over peach, apple and cherry woods from a Colorado fruit orchard, are cooked flawlessly in a handmade Italian oven the Barelas assembled themselves. “We had to figure out how to speak Italian to translate what we were doing,” Molly said. The hot menu is all inspired by the mountains. “We just tried to think of what we liked, what’s different,” Molly said. It’s mountain gourmet. Different, and delicious. The Mountain Climber, buffalo chicken, bacon and onion on a homemade white sauce, is one of the Block’s best sellers. So is the Day Hiker, with olive oil, pesto, roma tomatoes artichoke, chicken and Ricotta salata and Mozzarella cheese. Then there’s the Rock Crawler with meatballs and green chile, and The Fishing Hole with lobster and fresh dill. And that’s just getting started. The salads, all named after local waters, range from light to hearty, and include enticing blends like the Island Lake, with cold lobster with romaine, spinach, basil, carrots, onion, green pepper, siracha sunflower seeds. Appetizers and Panini’s are also a favorite. We like the Maggie: mozzarella, prosciutto, spinach and pesto. Gluten-free diets and most food allergies can be accommodated. Floyd, an avid home brewer who went on to earn his wings from the University of Wisconsin’s brew science program, had the task of relating his home batch recipes to a new scale. Grab a draught and you’ll see he nailed it. But there were a few adjustments. “That’s the Whoop Arse, our Scottish ale,” Molly said. “My husband’s original recipe was 11 percent, but up at elevation we had to back it down to 7.4.” The Hazlenut Brown is a summer cameo, and their Cathouse Kolsh, a wink to the town’s red light district of the past, is a local delight.
ALL THE RIGHT INGREDIENTS Along with the food and craft beer hand made by Molly and Floyd, they say there’s no place quite like Silverton. “I would call us strangely and diversely quirky,” Molly said. “That’s Silverton. It’s snowing right now in the hills but it’s warm enough to keep the door open. It’s all the people that make up the characters here. It’s the scenery. This is spectacular.”
MEET ME AT THE BLOCK
Silverton, Colorado’s newest brewery on the historic “GOLDEN BLOCK”. Serving wholesome wood-fired pizza, paninis & salads. 970.387.5962 | goldenblockbrewery.com | 1227 Greene St. Silverton, CO 81433 SUMMER2017 39
ELEVATION COFFEE: Does your latte look like this? When we stopped in to get a cup of Joe at Elevation Coffee in El Prado just outside Taos, we knew we were hitting a place the locals loved, what we didn’t know is we were about to get schooled on the mesmerizing wonders of latte art. We had the chance to see owner Janet Boccelli at her craft, turning the steamed milk of our lattes into a mountain flower, an autumn leaf and even a scene from Taos Ski Valley. It was so good, it was hard to drink. That is until we tasted it.
KILLER WEEKEND
Take Me Back to Taos By BRANDON MATHIS
Photo by Terrance Siemon
TAOS VALLEY SINGLETRACK Spend any time in the Taos Valley in New Mexico and you might begin thinking “there’s got to be some sweet riding out here.” You’re right. “There’s alpine riding and there’s sage brush, desert mesa. It’s all singletrack,” said Shari Heier of Gearing Up Bicycle Shop in Taos, as customers were streaming in and out on a Monday morning. Then grab a pint of beer or a cup of coffee at The Coffee Apothecary out front. Heier said looking a little deeper into the local riding will only reward singletrack minds. “There’s the South Boundary, which everybody knows,” she said, and for good reason. The South Boundary and North Boundary Trails are what Taos Mesa Brewing co-owner Max Davis calls some of the best singletrack he’s ever ridden in his life. “It’s what kept me here for 25 years.” But there’s also the Taos Valley Overlook, the Rift Valley. “For more advanced riding we send people out to Horsethief Mesa,” Heier said. “On the other side of Wheeler Peak (the highest peak in New Mexico), the Lost Lake Loop in Red River is beautiful. But first, swing by the shop and grab a map. One thing about the trails is signage. We’re working on that.” Near legendary Taos Ski Valley, The North Side at Taos Ski Valley is a private mountain paradise, with miles of pristine singletrack. Photo by Terrance Siemon
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We fell in love with this gem of a mountain town in northern New Mexico, and we think you will too. ADVENTUREPRO.us/taos
BREWING IN ANOTHER DIMENSION On your way out of town, just shy of the Rio Grand Gorge, Taos Mesa Brewing is crafting 10 to 12 handcrafted beers at what they call the Mother Ship, the flagship of their three locations. “We’re really meticulous about putting out the best quality beer that we can possibly brew,” said co-owner Max Davis. “I think we’re doing a great job with beer, true to style, and good, drinkable beer.” It’s a popular spot with a huge venue for live music drawing national acts, plus there’s a terrific food menu. On “the mesa” things have a different feel: panoramic views of the Sangra de Cristos and room to stretch your legs a little. You’ll notice the radio station broadcasting from the property and new in 2017: an Airstream trailer campground. And don’t forget the two other TMB locations: a taproom in town and at Taos Ski Valley.
Photo by Terrance Siemon
Photo by Terrance Siemon
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KILLER WEEKEND
THE RIO GRANDE GORGE This 50-mile gorge slices right though the high desert just outside Taos. At 800 feet deep, the famed National Wild Scenic Rio Grande River Gorge is quick access to another world, a canyon country home to bighorn sheep, climbers, rafters, songbirds, ancient forests with 500-year-old ancient pinion and juniper trees. Fly fishing is spectacular on the river, and trails, and even some roads lead all the way down.
Photos by Terrance Siemon
THE GORGE GRILL “Go ahead, gorge yourself.” At The Gorge Bar and Grill in the plaza the menu runs deep with New Mexican ingredients. We like the Chicken Chicharones with Chipotle Honey Tomatillo Salsa for starters. The Tequila Lime Chicken Tacos came highly recommended and the Carne Adovada was fantastic. Next time, we’re going for the Green Chile Chicken Alfredo. We also enjoyed the wide variety of New Mexico craft beer on tap and in the bottle.
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WE FUEL YOUR PASSION Whatever path you choose in Taos, we provide:
Taos Truths
• Taos is an art colony, dating back to 1915. • The Lady Of Guadalupe Church was constructed in 1802, and still stands today. • Taos Ski Valley is world-renowned, receiving 321 inches of snow each winter. • The Kachina lift is the highest triple chair in North America: 12,481 feet. • Wheeler Peak is the highest point in New Mexico: 13,161 feet. • The first Earthship was built here in 1972. • T he 1,000 year-old Taos Pueblo is one of the oldest continually inhabited communities in the United States.
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EXPLORE
Hiking Handies
For a beautiful video on hiking Handies Peak visit: www.adventureporo.us/handies
This summit is within reach by BRANDON MATHIS andies Peak, at 14,048 feet, is perhaps one of the most alluring mountaintops in the Rockies. Surrounded by wilderness, its vistas are uninterrupted. Our journey begins in Silverton, Colorado: elevation 9,300 feet, population 700. This historically infamous mining camp was more densely populated in 1874 than it is today. It’s the only municipality in all of 388-squaremile San Juan County, the highest county in the United States. Unimaginable efforts were made to cut hundreds of miles of roads leading from downtown Green Street in the name of silver and gold. These roads are gateways to the backcountry. Nine miles up a valley leading north of Silverton, almost
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to the headwaters of the Animas River, a path leads up into Grouse Gulch and falls directly into American Basin, to the base of Handies Peak. Handies, named for either a resilient pioneer in the area or by the Tabasco Meat Sauce Company which ran a nearby silver mine, towers over the basin. Comprising the Handies Wilderness Study Area, a 16,000-acre parcel of land overseen by the Bureau of Land Management, the area is the highest of its kind outside of Alaska. The mountain is cloaked in grassy slopes, with rocky shoulders and a soft ridge that favors hiking. In summer, the 2.5-mile approach through Grouse Gulch carries hikers through fields of flowers, bordered by the creeks and streams falling down the valley.
Upon gaining Grouse-American Pass, another 2.5 miles crosses the more rugged American Basin, where hikers encounter even rockier terrain before the ascent up the peak. After the remaining smooth, steep ridgeline hike that borders the abyss, there is little exposure and the summit is astounding. There is plenty of room at the top to walk around, so take your time and enjoy it. The 10-mile-plus round-trip hike makes for a good day on the mountains, anywhere from three to six hours. The rugged terrain can slow progress, and even in July snowfields can be knee-deep in places. Summer and autumn are the best seasons to make the summit bid on foot.
Photo by Debra Van Winegarden
Photos by Brandon Mathis
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How to Plan a Mountain Hike Any trip into the backcountry starts with a plan, whether it’s where to park, how to get there or what the weather will be like. TRIP REPORTS People love to post their adventures on blogs, websites and social media. These spots offer great information and are good spots to get a feel for what you’re getting into. WEATHER PLANNER In the Rocky Mountains it can snow in July and hit 60 in January, so it’s a good idea to check the weather every chance you get. Many prominent summits, like Handies Peak, will have detailed forecasts and even entire website pages specific to them. THE MAP QUEST Smartphones are great until they don’t work. Before you head out, search for topographical maps to get an idea of the terrain you’ll be traveling though. A good, old fashioned map and compass, and knowing how to effectively use them, are also must-haves when traveling in the backcountry. PACK ACCORDINGLY Make sure you are carrying more water than you’ll need, and pack a few extra layers like an extra rain shell or windbreaker, down or insulated jacket, hat and a pair of gloves. Even on the warmest days of summer, storms can move in and drop temperatures drastically, and often do. The Rockies have a monsoon season during late summer, when it rains almost every day. And don’t forget to throw in some quick calories. Energy bars and fruit are easy to digest and good for a boost. HOT FLASH Watch out for lightning. At 53,000 degrees, lightning is five times hotter than the surface of the sun. Here are a few tips for a successful summit attempt. • Timing is everything. Storms move in early in the mountains. The rule of thumb is to be off peaks by noon. • Lightning typically hits higher points and surrounding terrain, so try to descend the mountain on the side that has no clouds over it. • Avoid trees – long conductors – once lightning gets close. Look for an obvious ravine or depression before the storm hits. Then spread out your group at 20-foot intervals to reduce the risk of multiple injuries. And get off that bike! GET IN POSITION Use the lightning position if lightning is striking nearby: Putting your feet together and crouching or sitting may help reduce the lightning’s effects on the body.
Something a little handier than Handies Peak ENGINEER MOUNTAIN, COLORADO This is an accessible 6-mile round trip trail hike that leads you from the west side of Coal Bank Pass to an alpine landscape at the base of Engineer Mountain with an option to reach its 12,970-foot summit.
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EXPLORE
For a beautiful video on hiking Handies Peak visit: www.adventureporo.us/Hiking Handies
Photos by Ben Gavelda
In One Word: EPIC Crested Butte, Colorado By BRANDON MATHIS
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his colorful high country town in the heart of the Rockies is laced with miles and miles of mind-blowing singletrack. According to legend, a group of ambitious Crested Butte bicyclers wanted to one-up a group of Aspen motorcyclists who were keen on riding over the demanding Independence Pass separating the then-humble villas in the Elk Mountains. The Crested Butte gang decided they’d pedal over to Aspen, and so they did, on the best banana-seated, balloon-tired bikes the 1970s had to offer. The following year, 1976 or so, a like-minded group of cyclists from California came to participate, and just like that a tradition was born. The Independence Pass ride continues today. And so does the trail development.
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With 700 miles of trails winding out from this historic mining mountain community in the heart of the Elk Mountains, it’s no surprise that Crested Butte is a world-class mountain biking destination. We stopped by Big Al’s Bicycle Haven in downtown Crested Butte to get the local beta. “We have a huge cycling culture here that visitors are fascinated by,” said Big Al, fresh off the trail. Petite, pig-tailed and wearing a flat-rimmed hat and cycling gear, she sums up her take and fervor for the ride: “Epic.” That’s all we needed to hear before sampling some of the goods for ourselves, and facing off with a little mountain weather to do it. What’s a little snow in August?
LUPINE LOOP
TEOCALLI MOUNTAIN TRAIL
Who: Locals before or after work, visitors on a time crunch. What: Quick-access hit with a dose of sweetness that lasts all day. When: April through October Where: Take Gothic Road 2.4 miles north from downtown Crested Butte toward the ski area, turning left (west) at Saddle Ridge Ranch. Find the trailhead in the cul-de-sac and drop in to dirt. Pick up the Upper Lower Loop trail and make your way back to town. Why: In town, these super fun few miles of trail offer rolling singletrack in and out of aspen patches and eventually over the Slate River where a few options emerge to bring you back to downtown Crested Butte. These are super fun, fast, frolicking frills.
Who: Sadomasochists, enduro riders, cross country grinders and intermediate to expert riders looking for a solid outing. What: 12 mile, big mountain riding. Six miles up, 6 miles down. Amazing views, newer trail, berms, switchbacks and drops. When: June through October Where: From town, take U.S. 135 south for 2 miles, turning left on 738, or Brush Creek Road. Stay on 738 as it becomes a dirt road and passes Strand Hill through Brush Creek to Pearl Pass Road, park in pull outs along the road. Why: This daunting ride has all the makings of a classic: demanding climbs, creek crossings, old growth forests, Rocky Mountain views, cliffhangers and long stretches of hilarious downhills.
<< STRAND HILL
MORE RADNESS IN CRESTED BUTTE
Who: Singletrack aficionados. THE 401 • THE 409 • THE DYKE TRAIL • DOCTOR’S PARK What: A rewarding 5-mile singletrack with a mix of climbing and descending. When: May through October Where: From town, head south on U.S. 135 then left on 738/Brush Creek road. About 3.5 miles out, Farris Creek Road climbs up a hill to the right over a gate. Less than a mile up the climb is a marked trail intersection to Strand. Follow the trail markers over ripping singletrack through dense aspen forest trails. Why: Riding from town, this is a full value cross-country ride into the legendary aspen forests of Crested Butte. From the trailhead, it’s a stellar singletrack ride with a rooty deep woods feel that gives mad bang for the buck.
Is This Heaven? Big Al’s Bicycle Heaven is a core shop for any trailhead. You can wash your bike off around back, get professional and quick service up front and all the beta you need for the rides. Who’s Big Al? A big personality. After moving
to Crested Butte to become a pro snowboarder, a broken ankle set her on a different course. “When spring came around, I said, ‘What do we do now’ and they said, ‘now, we go mountain biking.’” That was more than 10 years ago, and since then, not only has she fallen for bikes, she fell for bike shops. So much so that she opened her own.
We love to ride, Crested Butte. www.adventureporo.us/crestedbutte
Go. See. Do. FIRST ASCENT - 21 ELK AVENUE Wake up with a bang. At the east end of Elk Avenue in downtown Crested Butte you might be drawn to the aroma of coffee roasting on Wednesdays and Sundays. Go for a cup of the Hero Day blend, or just get a pound and be a happier person. THE SECRET STASH - 303 ELK AVENUE This place is the bomb no matter what season, right downtown in the middle of everything. Start out with the Meat Candy: Grilled pork shanks on a stick with a crazy dry spice rub, and Carolina-style sauce for dipping. Every bit of the pineapple slaw will disappear. The Stuffed Mushies are another winner: Garlic, red peppers and goat cheese. For pizza, we’d say the Notorious F.I.G.: Mozzarella, bleu and Asiago cheeses, prosciutto, dried black mission figs with a nice hint of truffle oil. Bam.
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HOW TO
Just Add Water? Yuck! Who says camp food can’t be gourmet? We’ve come across a few simple recipes during our time on trails and this is a new favorite. This quick and easy recipe is fun to cook and tastes like you’re eating at a five star restaurant – but with better ambiance.
Photos by Terrance Siemon
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Photos by Terrance Siemon
Rosemary Rib Eye & Asparagus INGREDIENTS 1/2 Cup Butter for 3-4 steaks 3-4 Steaks A Bunch of Asparagus Rosemary (fresh if you have it) Salt & Pepper to Taste Aluminum Foil
MCPHEE OVERLOOK TRAILHEAD
®
DIRECTIONS 1 On a sheet of foil, cut and lay out several cubed pieces of butter. 2 Place the steak over the butter cubes. 3 Place the asparagus over the steak. 4 Finish with sprigs of rosemary and a pinch of salt and pepper. 5 With another sheet of foil, make a packet by folding up the edges several times each. 6 Cook on hot coals for about 10 to 12 minutes, piercing the foil if necessary to release steam. Bon Appetit!
Open Daily 8 To 8
970-882-7353 doloresfoodmarket.com
Gateway to Boggy Draw • Ask About Our Favorite Spots
Fueling SW Adventures for 21 years! SUMMER2017 49
KILLER WEEKEND
ZONA F
lagstaff, a city of 70,000 located just below the San Francisco Peaks of Northern Arizona, is at a bustling crossroads. It’s where the mountains meet the desert with a blend of eclectic culture all its own. Neighboring Sedona is a new age red rock rendezvous and both are stops – and homes – for climbers, hikers, bikers, and runners. Whatever the case may be, Northern Arizona is pretty sweet.
These Northern Arizona adventure towns are where it’s at in the Grand Canyon State
ON THE RIGHT PATH - Singletrack Sedona The eightfold path isn’t the only trail in this desert mecca. Sedona may be full of aura photographers, yogis, psychics and palm readers who make up a metaphysical market that rivals any niche you’ve ever seen, but here’s one fortune you need to hear: The riding is outstanding. “It’s huge,” said Will Geurts of Sedona Adventure Destinations. “This is just a place where everyone is coming right now and I see it continuing to happen like that.” “We’ve got trails that are ranked the best in the world, but the ability to get to them and connect them is probably the most unique feature,” says Jim Monahan of Sedona Bike & Bean. Trails lead into the rocks that surround this town. We like riding Oak Creek Canyon, a few miles south in the Village of Oak Creek. Go Slim Shady to Highline. Pedally singletrack with some chunky segments and a thrilling long downhill that rolls out smooth and ends with a nice ride back to The Bean, where the brew - be SLICE OF LIFE - Pizzicletta When local trail runner and cyclist Caleb Schiff left it coffee or craft beer - is waiting. And don’t miss their a career to open a pizzeria inspired by his travels, he Friday night shop rides. started from scratch. Each component is the perfect fit, from the 900-degree Italian family oven to naturally leavened yeast and locally sourced foods. Perhaps his biggest dish is the community he serves. “We get to create experiences for people,” Schiff said, who was running just as much as working in 2014 building the establishment. “The community feel that this town has, the restaurant has it too.” Try the Burrata smoked apple salad with fresh rosemary and espresso walnuts. Pizza: the Bianca, charred kale, gorgonzola, almonds, olive oil and lemon juice. Thirsty? Head next door to the Mother Road Brewing Company. THE LUMBERYARD - From tall timber to a tall beer Drink up a little history at The Lumberyard. Located in Flagstaff’s Historic Railroad District, the last remnants from the original Southwest Forest Industries building from 1890 and the cornerstone of Flagstaff’s once booming lumber industry, today, something else comes from the mountains of Northern Arizona: beer. Their Humphrey’s Hefe German Wheat is a Gold Medal winner at the Great American Beer Festival. 50 ADVENTUREPRO.us
ARIZONA ON HIGH You guessed it, this place, essentially the rim of the Colorado Plateau, is lined with trails that dart off into the distance. No matter what time of year, there’s somewhere to go. Professional La Sportiva mountain runner Nico Barraza has traveled the world. He says Flag is a trail mecca. “There’s a huge group of runners that live here because of the altitude and the accessibility to sweet trails in such a close proximity.” With mountains reaching 12,000 feet there are plenty of steep techy trails, but also ample miles of rolling terrain. Plus Sedona, laced with trails just to the south, is dry and warm when the snow starts falling. “You can get to Sedona in an hour and it’s 60 degrees when it’s 30 in Flagstaff,” he said. “It’s pretty insane. The other option is you can drive out and run in the Grand Canyon.” BARRAZA’S PICKS Aspen Corner, Flagstaff: “Start up by Snowbowl, the ski resort, and you can do a shorter loop or an out and back. It goes into this huge Aspen Grove. Absolutely gorgeous.” For something a little steeper, head out for Mt. Elden Lookout Trail: “It’s only 2.1 miles (one way), but it gains 2,600 feet, so it’s a steep, nasty trail.” That’s why some of the runners are so strong here. SEDONA One of the famous ones is the Jim Thompson Trail,” Barraza said. “That’s a really weird, funky trail. Then there’s the Hangover Trail, which is a really technical mountain bike ride bit it happens to be a really mellow run, about 7.7 mile loop. It’s a good hike too.
Photos by Brandon Mathis
STANDING ON A CORNER IN WINSLOW, ARIZONA There’s no shortage of climbing in Flagstaff or Sedona, but Winslow’s Jack’s Canyon is worth a trip. Scores of fun sport routes line the walls of this lush canyon with terrific camping on top and quick and easy access to the crags.
TRAIL BREAKER
Running, riding, hiking, touring? Here are our editor’s picks.
Bear Creek National Recreation Trail WHO: Ambitious hikers, history buffs, trail runners, backpackers and bighorn sheep. WHAT: A stunning, rigorous historic trail that climbs a mountain drainage area through mining history and opens into an alpine paradise. WHEN: Summer and autumn. The snow lingers late, the wildflowers are astounding, Bear Creek rages and winter comes early. WHERE: Two miles south of Ouray, Colorado, on U.S. Highway 550. The trail wraps over a tunnel. WHY: Within the first mile, Bear Creek gains almost 1,000 feet, up a series of switchbacks carved out of the slate and quartzite mountainside that rings like glass underfoot. While the grade relaxes, the trail takes on a character like few others in the nation.
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Photos by Brandon Mathis
he trail was constructed by resolute gold and silver miners in 1870 who refused to pay the tolls for the road to access the canyon. A rugged path was chiseled and blasted from volcanic rock, creating a baffling and unlikely way along cliffs and ledges well above the creek that lends the trail its name. Remnants of several attempts to keep the trail in place under the constant strain of erosion can be observed – iron rods, railroad ties and old fencing meant to bend the laws of geology. The trail, cut from a 30 million-year-old layer of volcanic tuff, also travels over recognizable veins of intrusive rock – dykes from ancient volcanoes. Yellow Jacket and Grizzly Bear mine camps lay in ruin along the trail. An eerie old miner’s cabin still stands with three bedsprings and a stove inside. Deer, elk, black bears and mountain lions frequent the area. Bear Creek trail meanders uphill toward Engineer Pass, crossing naturally chalky blue-white creeks, surreal against the alpine backdrop. Open tundra falls under 13,260-foot Darley Mountain immediately overhead, and the view west over the Sneffels Range becomes hypnotic above a kaleidoscope of wildflowers. With nearly 4,500 feet of overall elevation gain, Engineer Pass, 12,800 feet, can be reached in just over seven miles from the trailhead.
It’s Phil’s World! We’re just riding in it. WHO: Anyone who loves uber fun, jolly, hand-cut singletrack, made by mountain bikers for mountain bikers. WHAT: 30 miles of some of the best hero-dirty, meandering trail riding this side of the Continental Divide. WHEN: April to December WHERE: 7 miles east of Cortez, Colorado, on U.S. Highway 160 WHY: There is something for every rider here: buff singletrack, stirring jagged edges, canyon cliff exposure and a world-famous section of larger-than-life whoopde-dos that will leave your stomach racing to catch up with you and your bike.
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Photos by Terrance Siemon
hil’s World is masterpiece of the local trail group and a favorite of the region. Check in with Scott Darling at Kokopelli Bike & Board in Cortez who calls the area’s trails “handmade gems.” “You build it and people start coming,” he said. Loosen the legs on the Hippie House Loop then head out flying on CoCo Race toward Abajo. Dive into the eerie cool vibe of Ledges with its widow maker forest - standing trees burned into twists by brush fires. Max out on more whoops and the technical excitement of Stinky Springs. And whatever you do, do not miss the Rib Cage. Somebody called this the center of the mountain biking universe. “I’d put it up against any trails in the world,” Darling said. Keep your eyes peeled. You’re a stone’s throw in the line of sight of Mesa Verde National Park. Artifacts line the trailside. SUMMER2017 51
WILD VOICES
The Path Finders How two ladies and an army of volunteers break trail for the rest of us By BRANDON MATHIS
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onprofit organizations are typically designed to unite a group of people working together for a common goal or interest. But in the case of the Durango, Colorado-based trail advocacy group Trails 2000, it’s not only a community that benefits, but visitors as well. And it’s all led by Mary Monroe.
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Photo by Terrance Siemon
Photo courtesy The Durango Herald
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rails 2000 has set a bar that is followed on a national and international scale. The nonprofit has created a culture, a common path for all kinds of recreators to enjoy. People certainly move here for the experiences afforded by access to wild places. Armed with pickaxes, shovels and McLeods, the real work begins with pens and ink, forms and meetings: a delicate paper route that leads to miles of fun, and Monroe is there from the idea to the ribbon cutting. “The benefit of Trails 2000 is that we work with all land managers,” Monroe said. “That’s helped us create this holistic trail network. That network includes 80 miles of singletrack within city limits and more than 300 miles of trail within a 30 mile radius of downtown. Monroe began her career in cycling. She married a professional mountain biker, Travis Brown, and cut her teeth in marketing for a cycling megabrand. She held a vice president role at the International Mountain Bike Association for 10 years where she nurtured the power of trails, their development and sustainable design. After an outdoor recreational planning summit in Durango in 1990, she got a call to lead Trails 2000.
“I’ve been a trail designer for 12 years. I’ve managed somehow to turn this into a career, which I didn’t totally know was possible.” - Emma Millar “It just fit in very well with my family, wanting to raise my daughter here, and our love for Durango and the outdoors.”
If you build it they will come: The life of a trail It all starts with a plan. “Most of that planning process probably takes about three years,” Monroe said. “There’s a whole series of planning, strategic planning: what are the ideas that we’re hearing from the community, Forest Service plans, city plans. What are Trails 2000 ideas and what are we going to propose, get approvals for and get funding for to move forward?” Photo by Terrance Siemon
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WILD VOICES
“My whole family is involved in my job, because it’s just what we do. It’s who we are –
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Photos courtesy The Durango Herald
Hard hats “The job of an executive director of any nonprofit is to be the jack of all trades and wear many hats. Stay with your mission and fund your organization, work with your board to make this all happen pretty seamlessly.” Turns out that Durango, and plenty of other communities, love their trails. “We do know that we have seven bike shops in a town of 15,000,” she said. “We do know that we have five outdoor shops. We do know that we’re selling bikes and we do know that we’re employing people. When you have a town that values recreation, they value stewardship. They have outdoor ethics.”
Digging in the dirt
we use the trails, we love the trails.” - Mary Monroe
Meet Emma Millar, Trails 2000’s secret weapon. This woman knows how to make trails. She thinks about the things you don’t think about: soil composition, erosion, the type of rock underneath, the vegetation on top, the aspect of the slope, the way it rains. “I’ve been a trail designer for 12 years,” Millar said. “I’ve managed somehow to turn this into a career, which I didn’t totally know was possible.” Millar’s role is on the ground, after the paperwork and the meetings. She leads the planning, building and maintenance of the trials.
Trails for the soul After attending a summit with the Professional Trail Builders Association in Bend, Oregon, Millar got deep. “Building trails for the soul is this idea that trails nourish the things that we need,” she said. “Being outside really enriches our lives in way that is not measured by the grade of a trail or how many rocks are in it. It’s the experience that we get.”
Dirty job With a few staffers and artillery of trail tools, 6,000 volunteers working about 4,000 hours every year, this is a trail army. And this army has some big projects on the horizon. For Monroe and Millar, it’s a job they love. “I get to work outside.” Millar said. “I get to work with cool people, and with cool tools.” “I’ve always tried to do work that I’m passionate about,” Monroe said. “My whole family is involved in my job, because it’s just what we do. It’s who we are – we use the trails, we love the trails.” SUMMER2017 55
HOW TO
Lace Up Tight And you thought you were tying your shoes correctly all these years
Ever wondered what those extra holes on the upper part of your shoe were all about?
T
ry this cool lace up to avoid blisters and heel lift. Tightening the shoe independently around the ankle provides a secure fit that allows the rest of the lacing to remain more comfortable. Many runners and hikers have issues with heel lifting causing friction and blisters somewhere on their feet, or pressure on their toes. This lacing method can significantly alleviate that. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s how >>
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1
ollowing a traditional lace up, pull the lace up F and push it through the seemingly extra eyelet on the same side, leaving a bit of the lace that forms a loop between the two eyelets.
2
Repeat the same procedure on the other side of the shoe. Make sure there is enough loop to slide a lace through.
Think you can’t remember this? Bookmark the video on your phone for quick review. ADVENTUREPRO.us/tieyourshoes
Photos by Terrance Siemon
3
Cross the first lace over the tongue and thread it through the opposite loop.
4
Cross the other lace over and thread it through the first loop.
5
Pull the laces back taut and tie. You’ll notice a secure heel, snug ankle and comfortable upper as you carry off.
SUMMER2017 57
HARD CORE EXPLORE
Photos courtesy The Durango Herald
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Hardrock 100, see it with your own eyes. ADVENTUREPRO.us/hardrock100
100
A by-the-numbers look at the legendary Hardrock Hundred Endurance Run By BRANDON MATHIS
T
here are 100-mile races, and then there is the Hardrock. Want to know what it’s like to run these 100 miles? From top elite competitors to the runner next door, these athletes step up and give their all, many running two days straight over some of the most challenging terrain imaginable.
ONE
The Hardrock was founded in 1991 by Gordon Hardman to honor the early miners who
TWO Length: 100.5 miles of rugged mountain trails and roads with less than .2 miles on pavement. THREE Connecting four lived with the many challenges of Colorado’s San Juan Mountains.
historic mining towns, Silverton, Lake City, Ouray and Telluride, runners crest 12,000 feet 13 times, 13,000 feet seven times and summit Handies Peak at 14,048 feet.
FOUR Average elevation:
11,016 feet. Runners climb and descend 33,992 feet – for a total of 67,984 feet – the equivalent to running from sea level to the top of Mount Everest and back.
FIVE This year, 2,000 applicants
from 43 countries and 47 states applied to enter the race. The average age is 45 years old, but runners compete well into their 70s.
SIX
About 61 percent of participants finish the race. SUMMER2017 59
EXPLORE
100 SEVEN
Kirk Apt of Colorado has raced and finished the
Hardrock 22 times.
EIGHT
The course alternates direction
every year. European endurance legend Kilian Jornet holds the record for both. Clockwise in 2014, his time was 22:24:33, weeks after setting a record speed ascent of Denali. In 2015, one week after winning Alaska’s infamous Mount Marathon, he set a new counterclockwise record of 23:28:10.
NINE
Celebrated Colorado ultra
runner Diana Finkel holds the women’s record at 27:18.
TEN
Weather and hypothermia are a constant concern. In 2014, Canadian ultra runner Adam Campbell’s headlamp exploded after a lightning strike on Handies Peak. In 2015, several runners reported sinking to their waists in deep snow.
ELEVEN
Mandatory cutoff: 48
hours. Average time to complete: 40 hours. In 2015, Bogie Dumitrescu of Boulder, Colorado, finished the race in 47:59:59, with just one second to spare.
TWELVE At the finish, runners must kiss a
two-ton sandstone boulder that sits in downtown Silverton, Colorado. 60 ADVENTUREPRO.us
ADVENTURE PRONE?
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Story and Illustrations by Sara Knight
We go on adventures
to see new places and to find new perspectives. We go on adventures to push our limits and to find ourselves. We go on adventures to be inspired and to remember what a grand and awesome place Earth is. And sometimes we go on adventures because that’s just what we decided to do over breakfast one morning.
SUMMER2017 63
VISTAS
“You throw open the door and it’s always something different. We always try to camp by water, you always wake up to the sound of that and that’s my favorite part.” — Mariah Ganey When Mariah Ganey and Pavel Kostadinov rolled through the Elk Mountains, they stepped out for different perspective of their 1984 Westfalia Wolfsburg Edition, what they call the Swiss Army tool of vehicles. “Most of our trip had been through different mountain ranges and driving up to Gothic, Colorado, was such a stark difference,” Ganey said. The two are part of what’s known as the van life. Traveling by van and setting it up as basecamp wherever they see fit. They document how they make travel and adventure work with two dogs, Peaches and Riley. “A tent is awesome, but having access to a kitchen right there, and where we can just set up and tear down is really beneficial.” It’s a home away from home. @shaianneganeyphotography For the adventurer in all of us
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Start a fire with just a gum wrapper and an AA battery, create a candle out of a can of tuna or create a camp stove (and dinner) with four cans. /CAMPHACKS
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