|
|
DORADO FRIDA K AHLO IN ARIZONA
SUNDANCE 101
A S T E A M B O AT S P R I N G S C H A L E T
d e r e v o c s i Und SOUT H W E ST THE
21
U N E X PL O R E D T R E
Y OU MUST E X PE R
JAN/FEB 2016
A SU R E S IE NC E
Treasures found here.
Adventure that Feeds the Soul. newmexico.org JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
1
2
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
3
TABLE of CONTEN TS 64
42 48
54
FEATURES The Undiscovered Southwest
48
Dorado uncovers some of the region’s best off-the-radar destinations, artisans and products.
54
Wild & Free The classic cool of motorcycle chic stirs the spirit of adventure. Take to the scenic open roads of southern Utah. photography by Sinuhe Xavier
4
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
A Moveable Feast Snowshoe the rolling hills of Crested Butte, Colorado, where a cozy yurt with a five-course dinner awaits. by Jen Murphy
64
The New Ski Barons Two men are injecting millions into well-established ski resorts, transforming winter sports in the Southwest. by Peter Vigneron
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: SINUHE X AVIER; COURTESY SIPAPU SKI RESORT; FAWN DEVINEY. COVER: SINUHE X AVIER
38
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
RANCH
AT THE RIM COWBOY DUDS
18007 IH-10 W•San Antonio, TX • (210)-319-3001 • RanchAtTheRim.com JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
5
20
22
24
30
71
DEPARTMENTS OUTDOORS
24 Home on the Range
The Nob Hill Historic District has been reborn as Albuquerque’s hippest neighborhood.
IN TOWN
ON THE ROAD
34 Hill Town
One writer rediscovers her love for golf and the Arizona desert.
DORADOMAGAZINE.COM
AT HOME
A Chalet for 30 A Culinary Oasis 71 Meet the chef who has Many Seasons turned tiny Silver City, New Mexico, into a destination worthy of a foodie pilgrimage.
A Steamboat Springs home with a rooftop garden and modern style. Plus: Winter whites.
PA N O R A M A A SNA P SHOT OF T HE SOU T HWEST ’ S EV ENTS, C U LT U R E & P E O P L E FILM
13 Our local expert shares
the best ways to enjoy the film world’s premier indie festival.
GEAR
16 Saddle up with these
Western goods that will have you feeling a bit of horse power.
ART
80 M Y
18 Get a peek into the DORADO
It’s the rare ice climbing destination where you can actually end your day in civilization, sipping on a warm beverage.
intimate world of Frida Kahlo through her personal collection of photographs.
8 Letter from the Editor • 10 Masthead • 11 Contributors
6
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
PROFILE
20 Juicy peaches. Garden
dinner parties. Weekend festivals. One familyowned farm is staying current by being true to its Arizona roots.
CRAFT
22 Designer Emily
Henry is working to reintroduce the world to Southwestern style, one hand-carved piece of furniture at a time.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: FRIDA K AHLO MUSEUM; JULIE FOSKETT; PETER VITALE; CHARLIE DRESEN; DOUGL AS MERRIAM; COURTESY THE GOLF CLUB AT DOVE MOUNTAIN
18
INARY AF CUL ICI ON
LOCAL EATS •
FA R
M
E• DI
O• AD
S • FRES LTIE HF CIA OO E P
#freshfoodiemesa
K • GOURM FOR ET TO S
Today’s special
Freshly prepared deliciousness served on a bed of breaThTaking. The bounty of culinary delights you can savor in Mesa, Arizona have to be tasted to be believed. Locally-sourced ingredients from urban farms and agri-hoods combine with recipes from renowned chefs to create epicurean experiences unlike anywhere else. Come fnd your favor on our Fresh Foodie Trail™. Your table is waiting.
visitmesa.com/DTX
MESA \ GILBERT \ QUEEN CREEK \ APACHE TRAIL NATIONAL FOREST J A N U A R\YTONTO /FEBRUAR Y 2016 • DOR ADO 7
L ET T ER FROM THE E DITOR
Sight Unseen A few years ago, I took a road trip with a good pal along the old Route 66. The iconic highway once served as the Southwest’s Main Street, linking Texas, New Mexico, Arizona and California, and offering travelers roadside fun and classic Americana. On our way back to Phoenix, we drove through the Havasu National Wildlife Refuge and stopped at Topock Marsh, a peaceful riparian area in the Arizona desert, where migratory birds flying along the Colorado River rest and find plenty to eat in the tall grasses. (And, like any good watering hole, the stopover is also an ideal place to hunt for a mate.) Despite living in Arizona most of my life, I had never heard of this little oasis on the California border, but it turned out to be the perfect bit of serendipity to close out the last leg of our trip. We’ve all had this experience. You’re on vacation — or even exploring your hometown — and you stumble across that special something that wasn’t in a guidebook or on a well-trod tourist list. In this issue of Dorado, we share our favorite “undiscovered” treasures from across the region. Some are from our readers, some are from our staff, some are from our correspondents — but they’re all unique and quietly embody the diverse spirit of the Southwest. In addition to our cover story, we’ve filled the magazine with the people, places
and things that celebrate the region’s landscapes, small towns, and creative individuals and thrill-seekers who come in search of adventure — from family farms (Greener Pastures, page 20) and furniture makers (Well Furnished, page 22) to a stylish motorcycle trip across the southern Utah desert (Wild & Free, page 54). We don’t pretend these off-the-nationalradar spots are completely unknown, but we think they deserve a spotlight.
A SPLASH OF COLOR Sunrise at Topock Marsh on the Colorado River, a tranquil nature sanctuary in western Arizona.
Jeff Ficker DAVE ARNOLD/GETT Y IMAGES
e d itor in ch ie f Dorado magazine
8
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
The easiest way tO
Woohoo!
Spend your time on an adventure.
FLY
Spend it on a train, trail, horseback or in the powder. Easy direct flights to Durango from Denver, Phoenix and
COLOR AD O
Dallas/Fort Worth with hundreds of connections to the world. WWW.FLYDURANGO.COM NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2015 • DORADO
9
ONLINE
EXPLORE How to spend a winter weekend in New Mexico
E D I TO R I A L
Editor in Chief
Jeff Ficker Creative Director
Caroline Jackson Crafton Design Director
Marc Oxborrow
MAKE A gussied-up grilled cheese and tomato soup.
Associate Editor/Digital Editor
Ellen Ranta Olson Online Design
Chuck Rose, Aaron Heirtzler editorial inquiries: editor@doradomagazine.com PRODUCTION
Creative Shared Services Director
SHOP 8 things to add to your ski stash.
Christy Pollard Senior Design Manager
Todd Bartz Production/Pagination
Suzanne Duke Vice President of Enterprise Marketing
Kricket Lewis Subscription Services
Aani Parrish production inquiries: customerservice@doradomagazine.com ADVERTISING
Publisher
Chad Rose chadr@bcimedia.com Account Executives
#MyDorado Show us everything you love about the Southwest. Tag your photos with #MyDorado and we’ll share our favorites.
Theresa Monaco
Lauren Reidy-Phelan
tmonaco@bcimedia.com
laurenrp@bcimedia.com
Marketing Coordinator
Brittany Cupp Chief Executive Officer
Douglas Bennett Vice President of Finance and Operations
Bob Ganley To subscribe to Dorado magazine, visit doradomagazine.com.
DORADOMAGAZINE.COM
@dorado_mag @doradomag
Dorado magazine is published by Ballantine Communications. Creative services provided by Casual Astronaut (casualastronaut.com). Dorado magazine will not assume any responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts or materials. © 2016 Ballantine Communications, Inc. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or distributed in any form or by any means without prior written permission.
/doradomagazine /doradomagazine
editor@doradomagazine.com
10
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
1275 Main Ave., Suite 737 • Durango, CO 81301 ballantinecommunicationsinc.com
CONTRIBUTORS
Peter Vigneron (The New Ski Barons, page 64) moved to Santa Fe in 2011, where he works as a freelance writer and spends as much time running, skiing and mountain biking as he can. He has written for Outside, Runner’s World, and Popular Science, among other magazines.
Fawn DeViney (A Moveable Feast, page 48) recently moved back to her home state of Arizona after living in Boston as a food and lifestyle photographer. She is equally inspired by the neutral palette of the Atlantic Ocean and the bold sunsets of the Southwest. FAVO R I T E PL AC E I N T H E S O U T H W E ST
FAVORITE PLACE IN THE SOUTH W EST
Monument Valley, Arizona
Dale Ball Trails, Santa Fe, New Mexico
“There is nothing more calming than that view at sunrise or sunset.”
“Right out of town, there are 30 miles of fun, technical singletrack.”
As the former travel editor at Food & Wine magazine, Jen Murphy (A Moveable Feast, page 48) has tasted her way around the globe and still thinks the U.S. holds its own when it comes to craft beer. Murphy currently lives in Boulder, Colorado, and is an editor at AFAR magazine. Her work has appeared in Outside, Departures and The Wall Street Journal. FAVORITE PLACE IN THE SOUTH W EST
Outdoor photographer Kennan Harvey (The Undiscovered Southwest, page 38) lives off the grid with his wife and daughter in a self-built, solarpowered home below Colorado’s La Plata Mountains. “Dramatic wildness is a primary theme in my favorite pictures,” Kennan says. “I want people to stop, to take a second look, and a third, just like I do while witnessing such beauty firsthand.”
Dunton Hot Springs, Dolores, Colorado
FAVO R I T E PL AC E I N T H E S O U T H W E ST
“As soon as you arrive and see the log cabins and teepees, you feel transported to simpler times. There’s no better luxury than soaking in a natural hot spring under the starry Colorado sky.”
Goblin Valley State Park, near Hanksville, Utah “The highlight to this park is a flat basin filled with wild looking sandstone rock formations called hoodoos, which are great for playing hide and seek with the family.”
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
11
12
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
PANORAMA A S N A P S H O T O F T H E S O U T H W E S T ’ S E V E N T S , C U LT U R E & P E O P L E
EVENT
ILLUSTR ATION BY SEAN MCCABE. PHOTOGR APHY BY JONATHAN HICKERSON (MARQUEE); SCOTT MARKEWITZ (SKIERS, SNOWBOARDER); THINKSTOCK (PROJECTOR, FILM).
A First-Timer’s Guide to Sundance From scoring tickets to celeb spotting, our local expert shares the best ways to enjoy the film world’s premier indie festival B Y D AV I D P R O F F I T T
PLUS:
16 | Gear
18 | Art
20 | Profile
22 | Craft
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
13
PANORAMA
I hear about film festivals all the time. How is Sundance different? Sundance, which runs Jan. 21–31, is the standard-bearer of American independent cinema. It’s fresher and more surprising than Cannes, more laidback than Toronto and more focused on films than SXSW. You see movies here months — or even years — ahead of their national release dates.
What kind of movies can I expect to see?
Where is it? Most of the action is in the mountain ski town of Park City, Utah, but you can also catch films and events in Salt Lake City, Ogden and Robert Redford’s very own Sundance Mountain Resort near Provo.
Where are the best places to see a celebrity? High West Distillery & Saloon, Flanagan’s on Main and O.P. Rockwell are popular party spots, but the hottest Hollywood watering holes are the private houses that dot the mountainsides around Park City. Unfortunately for the average fan, it’s impossible to get into these parties without an invitation or a very big producer credit. Instead, scope out Park City’s Egyptian Theatre or Eccles Center before and after the premieres. Or just occupy a spot on one of the balconies
14
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
overlooking Main Street. (Utah’s low-alcohol draft beer laws mean you can keep ordering for hours without falling off your stool.)
When should I go? The festival’s first weekend is prime time for industry deals, premieres and celebrities. But after Tuesday, restaurants, bars and even screenings are easier to get into. You can also get tickets to see the festival prizewinners during the final weekend.
What’s the biggest rookie mistake? Doing too much. Getting around Park City means shuttle buses, which can be slow. Stick with theaters that are near each other. Prospector and Eccles make a good pair, or go for a troika with the Library, Egyptian and Yarrow theaters.
I can only watch so many movies. What else is there to do? Hit the slopes! The Wasatch Mountains are home to more than a half-dozen world-class resorts, including Park City, now the largest ski resort in the country. As a bonus, lift lines are a breeze during the festival.
How and where do I get tickets? The big premieres fill up fast, so buy passes or tickets as early as possible. To get on the shortlist, buy a ticket for the next day’s first screening at the Eccles Center. It’s the biggest venue in Park City and usually shows the biggest movies. You can also buy waitlist tickets to sold-out screenings. Reserve a spot using the Sundance app or website, then show up at the theater 30 minutes beforehand.
ILLUSTR ATION BY SEAN MCCABE. PHOTOGR APHY BY THINKSTOCK (PROJECTOR, AUDIENCE, FILM); EVERETT COLLECTION (FILM STILL)
In previous years, Napoleon Dynamite, Hoop Dreams, Precious, Donnie Darko, Memento, The Blair Witch Project and Little Miss Sunshine all became breakout hits. The festival also launched the careers of directors Steven Soderbergh (Sex, Lies and Videotape), the Coen brothers (Blood Simple), Ed Burns (The Brothers McMullen) and Quentin Tarantino (Reservoir Dogs).
photo: toddpowell.com
Mountain Magic > Few things are more magical than a mountain town. With a charming Main Street. Sandwiched between 6 world-class ski resorts. Copper | Breckenridge | Keystone | Arapahoe Basin | Loveland | Vail And with its own tubing hill. 45k of cross country and snowshoe trails. Dinner and hot cocoa sleigh rides. Beginner ski and ride hill. Check us out. TownofFrisco.com
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
15
PANORAMA Morning rush hour at Sorrel River Ranch near Moab, Utah.
GEAR
Cowboy Chic
Saddle up with these Western goods that will have any city slicker feeling a bit of horse power BY DINA MISHEV
Easy Rider
B EST B O OT FO R WA R D
When handmade cowboy boots aren’t enough, enter a Pinto Ranch saddle, imagined and made by master leather craftsman Julio Peña. From $3,300, pintoranch.com
A little bit cowgirl, and a little bit cosmopolitan, Lucchese’s new goat leather Jenna bootie is fully cute. $595, lucchese.com
Used as a clutch or paired with a purse, this Juan Antonio-designed, inlaid leather wallet makes a statement. $160, acowgirlspromise.com
16
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
SORREL RIVER R ANCH (TOP)
Flower Power
PANORAMA Head’s Up
With a 4-inch brim and cattleman crease crown, Resistol’s 20X Tarrant felt hat — made from a blend of rabbit, wild hare and beaver — looks as good as it works. $524, resistol.com
Discover world class outdoor recreation
Fine and Dandy
A Rockmount shirt is in the permanent collection of the Smithsonian — it was the first cowboy shirt to feature snaps. But the 100 percent cotton shirts, made since 1946, are made for everyday wear. $110, rockmount.com
PAGE TUR NE R
There’s no better photographic tribute to the West’s most iconic animal then the late David R. Stoecklein’s lavish 300-page The Western Horse. $60, thestoeckleincollection.com
Old Is New Again
The stitch pattern on Olathe Boots’ Latigo Cowboy Boot is from a design in the company’s 1938 catalog. Its American spring steel shanks will keep them comfy until 2038. $425, olatheboots.com
Buckle It
Andy Stevens’ hand-tooled floral belts are almost too beautiful to wear. But the leather artist would be sad if you didn’t; each is as rugged as it is refined. $350, maidasbelts.com
Greenlee County, AZ www.growinggreenlee.org
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
17
ART
Portraits from an Artist Get a peek into the intimate world of Frida Kahlo, whose personal collection of photographs reveals a woman at the center of the 20th century’s avant-garde
“I
BY DANIELLE STEIN CHIZZIK
leave you my portrait,” Frida Kahlo famously wrote, “so that you will have my presence all the days and nights that I am away from you.” In fact, she left not one painting of herself, but 55. And yet the world’s thirst for insight into the iconoclastic Mexican artist remains unquenched, as evidenced by the traveling
18
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
exhibition, Frida Kahlo—Her Photos, at Phoenix’s Heard Museum through Feb. 8. The show, curated by the Mexican photographer and historian Pablo Ortiz Monasterio and brought to the American Southwest by Heard curator Janet Cantley, contains more than 240 photos owned by Kahlo, many adorned with the artist’s revealing commentary. “It’s almost like sitting and looking at her photo album with her,” Cantley says of viewing the show, which is organized into themes like Politics, Her Broken Body and Diego (in reference to her husband, Diego Rivera). The photos features images of Kahlo, of her family, and of her personal heroes — Stalin, Lenin and Gen. Zapata included. “She made notes on some, left lipstick kisses on others. She’d cut out a face she no longer liked,” Cantley says. “There’s a photo of Diego with his ex-wife Lupe, and she folded it back so she wouldn’t have to look at Lupe.” Only seven of the photos were actually taken by Kahlo herself; many of the others are of unknown origin, although a smattering are attributed to her father, the professional photographer Guillermo Kahlo, or to notable names like Man Ray, Tina Modotti, and Brassai. The images spent 50 years locked
FRIDA K AHLO MUSEUM
PANORAMA
MARKETPLACE
Clockwise from far left: Frida stomach down, by Nickolas Muray, 1946; Frida and Diego with friends, anonymous, ca. 1945; Frida painting in her bed, anonymous, 1940.
up in Kahlo’s famous home, La Casa Azul, in Mexico City, before being unearthed by Ortiz Monasterio. Though best known for its exhibitions of Native American and Southwestern folk art, the Heard has expanded its mission in recent years to reflect the art and heritage of other indigenous American cultures, and the Kahlo exhibit might be the highest-profile example of this. But the museum’s roots are also in evidence: It commissioned a local group of female artists and Kahlo uber-enthusiasts, the Phoenix Fridas, to curate a companion exhibit composed of pieces of Mexican folk art and clothing that the Heard already had in its permanent collection. Each “Frida” chose a piece and explained why the object would have resonated with Kahlo herself. “This will be a lighthearted, interactive area — good for kids,” Cantley says. “Whereas the photography show,” she adds with a laugh, “might not be quite as family friendly!”
VISIT ONLINE Shop for the products, places and experiences featured in our magazine. Products chosen by our staff and select advertisers. WWW.DORADOMAGAZINE.COM/MARKETPLACE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
19
For seven decades and three generations, Schnepf Farms has been a family affair.
PROFILE
Greener Pastures Juicy peaches. Garden dinner parties. Weekend festivals. One family-owned farm is staying current by being true to its Arizona roots BY CELESTE SEPESSY
I
n 1941, Ray and Thora Schnepf spent their honeymoon night in a one-room shack. With their farmhand. They’d spend the next three years clearing the desert brush from their plot of land just 20 miles southeast of Mesa, Arizona. And during the next seven decades, it would transform into the state’s most well-loved family farm. Schnepf Farms, and the Schnepf family, are Queen Creek institutions. In fact, the 300-acre farm may be the biggest attraction in the small town (population
20
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
32,000). Hundreds of thousands of visitors — both from Phoenix and across the country — make the trek to Schnepf Farms every year for the chance to pick their own organic fruits and vegetables. It’s an experience most have never had, and demand is growing as local produce is top of mind for many consumers. “We’ve been the only stewards of this land. We know what goes into it, and we know what comes out,” says Carrie Schnepf, whose husband, Mark, is Ray and Thora’s son. The Schnepfs are continuing a farming
tradition 100 years in the making. Originally from Mesa, the Schnepf family expanded to Queen Creek where the acreage was plenty and the soil was fertile. At its peak in the 1970s, the farm stretched for 5,000 acres of commercial crops like cotton, potatoes and corn. And it wasn’t alone; similar farms covered much of the greater Phoenix area. Now, as Carrie describes, every other local farm is gone to make way for shopping centers or housing developments. Some are even named after the farms of generations past, like what Carrie jokingly calls “Hastings Farm … full of houses.” But the Schnepfs, and their farm, changed with the times. Instead of commercial crops, the agritourism farm focuses solely on the public, Mark explains. Think huge weekend festivals, garden dinners, rides and countless animals. But the main draw, of course, is its organic “U-pick” produce like kale, artichokes, apricots and peaches. “People who come to the farm get to taste things they’ve never tasted before,” says Mark, who served as Queen Creek’s first mayor. “To bite into a peach off the tree and have it explode, with the juices running down your arm — that’s an experience. You can’t get that at a grocery store.” Peaches are undeniably the farm’s pride and joy. And they’re an Arizona favorite, too; nearly 50,000 people visit Schnepf Farms for its annual peach festival (to be held on May 14-15 and 21-22 this year). There, you’ll find six different peach varieties, spanning 40 acres — plus peach- and pie-eating competitions, daily pancake breakfasts, peach pit spits and countless peachy foods, like Carrie’s grandmother’s peach cinnamon rolls. While Schnepf Farms has certainly evolved, it seems staying true to its roots has been just what Arizona has needed. “I don’t think we’ll ever really change,” Carrie says. “You need that foundation, those roots. You need to be able to fill that soil. You can only take so many cement walls.”
JULIE FOSKETT
PANORAMA
Give the GIFT of BIG ADVENTURES.
INTRODUCTORY OFFER
$17.99 50% OFF THE COVER PRICE 6 ISSUES PER YEAR WWW.DORADOMAGAZINE.COM/SUBSCRIBE
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
21
PANORAMA
Well Furnished Emily Henry is working to reintroduce the world to Southwestern style, one hand-carved piece of furniture at a time BY E L L E N R A N TA O L S O N
W
hen Emily Henry finished high school, she fled her hometown of Taos, New Mexico, as quickly as she could, intending to never look back. After growing up the daughter of an architect and an artist on Dennis Hopper’s Rainbow Commune near Taos, Henry set out in search of a more “ordinary” life. “Taos in the 1970s was certainly a moment in time that a lot of people
fantasize about, and I was lucky enough to experience it, but being a kid during that time wasn’t always ideal,” she says. After leaving Taos for college in the Midwest, Henry spent time in both Los Angeles and Pittsburgh, but eventually settled in Santa Fe with her husband and two children, and tried to resist the fact that Southwestern art runs in her blood. “I had very little interest in exposing clients to my upbringing,” says Henry, who also works as an interior designer. “The Taos aesthetic — elegant,
simple and rustic all at once — can be difficult to explain and translate, so I left it alone.” But the gravitational pull of her hometown was strong. About five years ago, on a bit of a whim, Henry designed a series of sleek cabinets in a light, textured poplar wood for a client’s estate, and when the client “flipped out in a good way, I knew I was on to something,” she says. The Pueblo Plum Blossom design, which features branch-like sketches carved onto otherwise clean lines, has become a mainstay in Henry’s collection. After four years of creating custom pieces, in 2015 Henry officially launched Millicent, a small collection of wooden furniture made in Taos and Santa Fe. It wasn’t an easy undertaking — each piece is made from heirloom-quality poplar, pine or walnut, and includes a hand-carved relief pattern on the
Emily Henry’s Pueblo Plum Blossom design — a hand-carved spray of delicate branches — has become a mainstay of the designer’s modern Millicent furniture line.
22
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
THIS PAGE, PETER VITALE; OPPOSITE, JEN JUDGE
CRAFT
exterior. The doors are fitted with leather pulls or brass accents that open to a sky-blue interior, a subtle nod to the clear skies of Taos. Production takes up to 200 hours per piece, and trying to determine how to make the designs consistent but not mass-produced was a challenge, Henry says. “There were so many failures in the beginning — trying to figure out what sketches would work as a carving, and
Henry inspecting the raw materials.
then understanding how to carve it, and from there, how to make it locally,” she says. “It was a huge learning curve.” But like the line’s namesake — a 1920s East Coast socialite named Millicent Rogers who gave up her opulent life to move to Taos — Henry is determined to introduce the world to Southwestern style, albeit in a slightly more modern way. “She became a champion of Hispanic and Native American arts and really brought the Southwest to the rest of the world. I always aim to capture that free-spirited elegance that Millicent Rogers and Taos in general represent. I want my pieces to evoke the Southwest without screaming Southwestern.”
DAYDREAMS, delivered. Get your dose of big adventures sent straight to your inbox every other week with the Dorado e-newsletter. VISIT DORADOMAGAZINE.COM TO SIGN UP NOW.
DESIGN FOR LIFE
Get to know New Mexico through a native’s eyes. See Emily Henry’s favorite haunts, shops and eats at doradomagazine.com/10-spots-santa-fe
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
23
OUTDOORS
HOME ON THE R A NGE Sometimes father really does know best. Ellen Ranta Olson hits the links in Tucson with her dad and rediscovers her love of the game and the Arizona desert
24
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
HIGH AND DRY
At the Jack Nicklausdesigned Golf Club at Dove Mountain in Tucson, players perfect their swing against a backdrop of mountains, cactus and sky.
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
25
y dad, Eric, often likes to remind me that he was into golf before it was cool. He’ll recount stories of his childhood in Seattle — a damp, mossy place that is a destination for just about every outdoor sport other than golf — when he would sling his bag of clubs over his shoulder and take a bus down south to one of the few public courses in the area. “Walking 18 holes in the pouring rain is about the farthest thing from fun,” he says. But he stuck with it and eventually was able to travel a bit farther south to play — to the Sonoran Desert, where there are courses aplenty and rainy days are few and far between. While Phoenix/Scottsdale has always been the major hub for golf in Arizona, Tucson had my dad’s heart from the get-go and he looked for any excuse to take a trip to the Old Pueblo. “Tucson has those incredible courses — but with a bit less DRIVE TIME
Under a bright blue Arizona sky, the author aligns her stance before teeing off.
pretentiousness and even fewer crowds than up in Phoenix,” he says. “It’s got that unique-to-Tucson vibe down there.” So it worked out well for him when, at 18, I decided to leave Seattle and venture off to college at the University of Arizona in Tucson. I hated the desert. It was barren, dry, brown, flat — and mostly, it wasn’t Seattle. Every year I swore I was leaving, and every year I continued to stay and my dad would come down for a visit. We’d go out to one of Tucson’s many golf courses, where I would relish being surrounded by damp green grass, for at least a few hours. My dad would remark on how great the sun felt or how stunning the views were, and I eventually began to see the beauty of the desert, too. And I ended up staying. I married a Tucsonan, and we built a little life in the desert, first in Tucson, now in Phoenix. Now, when my dad comes to visit, I’m eager to show him everything I love about the area — golf included. On his last trip to Phoenix, we hopped in the car one morning and drove the hour-and-a-half south to Tucson for a round at The Golf Club at Dove Mountain. This 27-hole course designed by Jack Nicklaus was home to the WGC Accenture Match Play Championship for years, and I have fond memories of following the likes of Tiger and Phil there. We teed it up at the first hole on the Saguaro nine, and, even at 31 years old, I could feel my body tense up in anticipation of really impressing my dad with a great first shot. I whiffed the ball. Unlike my dad, who goes to the driving range every day, my golf game has been on hold for most of my adult life. When I was young, the range was a bit of a begrudged destination for me. It was a weekly father-daughter destination in the years after my parents divorced, and I found it to be mind-numbingly boring — until I picked up a club. I was a kid who had no athletic ability, but for some reason, I could swing a golf club. Just like that, the trips to the driving range became fun. I started taking lessons from an older gent whose claim to fame was having coached Fred Couples, and I learned how to hit a great drive. I looked forward to those weekly dates with my dad where we would hit buckets of balls in the rain and he’d compliment my drives. “Nice swing, Elle,” he’d
MATTER OF COURSE
Ventana Canyon Golf and Racquet Club
Sewailo Golf Club
La Paloma Country Club
The Golf Club at Vistoso
Tucson’s courses are often overshadowed by those of Phoenix and Scottsdale, but the Old Pueblo is a golf destination in its own right.
Tucked away into the foothills of the Santa Catalina Mountains, these two Tom Fazio-designed courses are regularly included on national “best of ” lists.
The newest course in the Tucson area, Sewailo opened in December 2013 and is the home course for the University of Arizona golf team.
All 27 Jack Nicklausdesigned holes recently underwent a renovation, and are now home to the same lush grass found at TPC Sawgrass.
It’s a little off the beaten path, but this 72-hole course in Tucson’s north suburbs is typically a bit less crowded than others.
26
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
W W W . W I L L I A M H E N R Y. C O M
WI LLIAM H EN RY.CO M JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
27
ROUGH AND TUMBLE WEEDS
From left: One bad swing, and you’ll find your ball in the desert rough, a sea of cactus and scrub; the author and her dad.
Unlike my dad,
say, and I’d feel like the best golfer in the world. And then, in typical teenager who goes to the fashion, I was over it, golf was boring again and I didn’t want to driving range be caught dead spending free time every day, my golf with my parents. I’ve halfheartedly avoided it ever since, knowing how much commitgame has been on ment it takes to actually be a decent golfer, and knowing how much I hold for most of hate doing things I’m not good at. But getting older leaves me wanting my adult life. more time with my parents, and so I’ve come to appreciate the game of golf again. I’m just not as good as I once was. And on this trip to Tucson, we were playing a hard course. A course that was designed for professionals. The fairways at Dove Mountain are tight and winding, and the rough is full of cactus. The majority of my drives go sailing into a sea of saguaros, never to be found again. But it’s that same inhospitable terrain that takes your breath away at each tee box. Dove Mountain is truly a desert course in every sense of the word, and there are few other places where you can play against a backdrop of mountains, cactus and sky. I redeem myself with a few decent shots and my dad gets a par. We get a little cocky and decide to actually keep score — until the frustration sets back in on a fairway studded with five bunkers. “That didn’t last long,” my dad laughs as I toss the scorecard into the back of the cart after hole four. “You can’t even see the greens!” I exclaim, channeling my 14-year-old self.
28
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
“That’s the fun of it,” he tells me. And he’s right. Golf offers you the satisfaction of a tangible reward. Because while my drives may be going every which way but straight, my dad’s are right on. The time he’s spent practicing, playing and schlepping to the driving range in the Seattle rain pays off. It’s the type of sport that proves dads everywhere right — if you work hard at something, it’ll pay off. We continue along the front nine, reminiscing about our first golf trip to Arizona. I was 13 and it was 118 degrees outside when we teed off. “I thought the breeze from driving the golf cart would cool us off a bit, but it actually felt like someone was constantly opening an oven door on your face,” he says. “It’s a wonder we ever came back,” I reply. But we both know just by looking around that that isn’t true. The mountains, the bright green grass, the two of us chatting it up like a couple of old chums — it’s a wonder it took me so long to appreciate it. We call it quits after nine holes and head to the driving range, where we can ignore the frustration of the short game, and just hit drive after drive into the endless desert sky. Here, I hit the ball a little bit straighter, a little bit longer. “Nice swing, Elle,” he says, and I feel like the greatest golfer in the world.
GO LOCAL: TUCSON’S BEST
To eat, drink and play like a Tucsonan, visit doradomagazine.com/10-spots-tucson for 10 must-visit destinations.
IT
only
TAKES A SPARK.
Please ONLY YOU CAN PREVENT WILDFIRES . smokeybear.com
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
29
IN TOWN
A CULINARY OASIS In tiny Silver City, New Mexico, the Curious Kumquat is elevating foraged ingredients with molecular gastronomy techniques. Jen Murphy makes the foodie pilgrimage
30
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
DOUGL AS MERRIAM (2)
D
eep in the New Mexican desert, a dusty four-hour drive from Albuquerque, Rob Connoley riffs on global dishes like Doro Wat, an Ethiopian chicken stew, and the Vietnamese noodle soup, pho. He forages for acorns that he turns into financiers and uses hydrocolloids to create caviar-sized balloons of flavors like elderflower and pomegranate. His restaurant, the Curious Kumquat, has put the tiny town of Silver City, New Mexico, on foodie bucket lists alongside destinations like San Sebastián, Copenhagen and Chicago. On a recent evening, a couple waved Connoley over after their meal to tell him they’d just returned from a culinary trip to Spain and every one of his dishes would have fit right in at the legendary restaurant Arzak. “When I hear that, it blows me away,” says Connoley. “I don’t know what I’m doing. I just love good food.” Connoley, a lanky blue-eyed man of 47, never set out to be a famous chef or even to own a restaurant. But when he moved to Silver City 12 years ago to take a job in nonprofit management, he refused to live in a food wasteland. “My partner, Tyler, and I started to ask locals what they thought the town needed,” recalls Connoley. The resounding consensus was good food. In 2004 Connoley opened a small grocery store stocking the flavors he’d come to love from Peru, Korea, Mexico and other far-flung places he’d traveled. “It was the pantry I needed to cook the food I wanted to eat at home,” he says. There was a section just for fish sauces and Indian spices, 100 varieties of chocolate bars, 75 types of cheeses and $200 balsamic vinegars. Suddenly, the 10,000 residents of this former mining town went from shopping at the Trader Joe’s (a threehour drive away) to buying ingredients they’d never heard of at a gourmet food store that wouldn’t be out of place in Manhattan. The first day the store opened there was a line out the door. “People were truly starving for these flavors,” he says. Connoley started hosting 24-course experimental dinners at a friend’s
COOK GLOBALLY, GROW LOCALLY
For his internationally inspired menu, Chef Rob Connoley sources his meat from the local 4-H and forages 40 percent of his ingredients in the summer.
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
31
house, for $35 a head. The dinners were a hit and inspired him to start serving lunch at the store and eventually dinner a few nights a week so he could play with modernist techniques. In 2012 he closed the grocery store so he could focus all of his energy on cooking. Connoley never worked a day in his life in a restaurant before opening the Curious Kumquat. The key to his success — including a James Beard Award nomination in 2014 as best chef in the Southwest — is simply his curiosity. “I was initially interested in food as a consumer,” he says. Connoley was a fanatical reader of and participant on eGullet.com, a food forum whose initial members included Anthony Bourdain and Grant Achatz. “I’d read restaurant reviews of El Bulli and Alinea, and see photos of dishes I’d then try to re-create. We think food is magic, but I quickly learned it’s just food. The technology and science behind it are learnable.” He forced himself to cook his way through Desserts by Pierre Hermé and learned, from a local mountain man, to forage acorns, cattails and other wild edibles. He built a greenhouse where he could grow fresh vegetables and forged relationships with local producers such as Frisco Farm and kids in the local 4-H Club who now sell him meat. The Quat, as locals warmly refer to it, is located in a quirky 1870s house. The front patio is set amid the restaurant’s garden beds and looks down Bullard Street,
32
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
Chef Rob Connoley’s Cauliflower Black Mole “Black mole, or mole negro, is something I always wanted to like as a kid, but I could never get past the bitter taste and pasty consistency of the store-bought sauces. But, besides having to gather a lot of ingredients, mole is not that difficult to make, and now I have a mole that I love.” Get this and more recipes from the Curious Kumquat at doradomagazine.com/curious
FROM TOP: DOUGL AS MERRIAM; JAY HEMPHILL.
POP ART
“The Quat” manages to avoid being pretentious, with original takes on comfort-food classics, like these homemade Pop-Tarts, created using dried cherries and almond flour.
Silver City’s main drag. Inside, wild sunflowers, cattails and other foraged finds dangle from the ceilings of the various dining rooms. A small kitchen serves as the stage for Connoley’s one-man act. “My team is my left and right hand,” he jokes. “I prep. I cook and plate the food. I wash the dishes.” Lunch is meant to be fast, fresh and affordable, featuring familiar flavors. “I wanted this to be a place locals could eat at a few times a week,” he says. Connoley grinds local lamb for his hit gyro sandwich, and his green-chile corn chowder and cayenne-spiked peanut butter cookies have become lunch staples. Dinner is more of a special occasion affair for locals and a bragging rights experience for out-of-town foodies. Connoley lets his imagination run wild, fusing modernist cooking techniques with foraged ingredients and global flavors for his five-plus-course menus. Crawfish-filled samosas topped with pistachio foam take inspiration from the flavors of India as well as the nearby Gila River, where he gets his crawfish. Today he’s foraged bags of acorns on his morning hike in the Gila Mountains and has crushed them into flour to make acorn croquettes topped with Thai curry. The most groundbreaking restaurants are often short-lived. They open, shift our perception of what food can be and though they close their doors, their flavors and techniques are never forgotten. Late last year, Connoley announced his plans to close the Curious Kumquat in September because his partner needs to relocate for work. Urgency to experience his cooking — for both regulars and food pilgrims — has never been higher, but luckily his recipes will live on in his forthcoming cookbook, Acorn & Cattail: A Modern Cookbook of Forest, Farm & Field.
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
33
ON THE ROAD
HILL TOWN Thanks to its retro Route 66 character, the Nob Hill Historic District has been reborn as Albuquerque’s hippest ’hood. Jayme Moye takes a stroll
34
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
ehind the bar at Zacatecas Tacos + Tequila, a bartender with tattoo sleeves mixes Olmeca Altos Tequila, fresh-squeezed lime juice, Thatcher’s Organic Blood Orange Liqueur and agave. A well-dressed woman with a cascade of dark brown curls created the drink, with a little help from the restaurant’s build-your-ownmargarita menu. She sits across the room with a small group of girlfriends, enjoying happy hour at the high-top table beside the window. Outside, a couple strolls by — he in high-top sneakers, she in trendy black ankle boots. Snippets of their playful debate carry in the late afternoon breeze, drawing smiles from passers-by. The topic? Whether they should dine at Kellys Brew Pub, a landmark hot spot with a patio serving up some of the best people-watching in Albuquerque, or Matanza, the upstart brewery located directly across the street, boasting farm-fresh ingredients and a whopping 100 New Mexican beers on tap. Farther down the main drag, the last fitness class of the day has just finished at Ryde Shack, an indoor cycling studio with high-tech stationary bikes that lean, turn, steer
BACK ON TRACK
L-R: BILL TONDREAU, MARBLE STREET STUDIO
Albuquerque’s stretch of historical Route 66 is enjoying a mod renaissance.
and balance. Endorphin-energized participants spill out onto the street clad in spandex shorts and then fold into the lively parade of neighbors out walking their dogs or grabbing last-minute dinner ingredients at the La Montañita Co-op, a natural grocer. Welcome to Friday night in Nob Hill, Albuquerque’s hippest neighborhood. When a friend recommended a weekend in Nob Hill, I was skeptical. I live in Boulder, Colorado, a bastion of farm-to-table food, craft beer and artisan cocktails. What does Nob Hill have that I can’t find in Boulder’s Pearl Street Mall area? “Some serious history,” Paul said. Nob Hill, located about two miles east of present-day downtown, was Albuquerque’s first suburb. In 1916, the former mayor, a civic-minded entrepreneur named D.K.B. Sellers (who called himself “Colonel” although he was no such thing), envisioned Nob Hill as “the coming aristocratic section of Albuquerque.” He planned it in a rural area far enough away from town that it required an automobile, restricting its residents to the upper class. The name Nob Hill comes from Sellers’ former residence
in San Francisco, as he saw a likeness in the incline on Carlisle Boulevard. His sales pitch to prospectors: “Move out of the low zone up to the ozone.” Initial demand for homes was high, and the majority of builders employed Southwest design styles, infusing Nob Hill with a distinct sense of place. In 1937, Route 66 was relocated along Central Avenue, the main road through Nob Hill, bringing with it a surge of commercial development. World War II halted further construction, and then in the 1960s, the neighborhood’s retail businesses fell on hard times after Interstate 40 was built through Albuquerque, draining motorists from Route 66 and siphoning shoppers to the new malls flanking the highway. The neighborhood It wasn’t until 1984, after the Nob Hill Shopping Center is a showcase was sensitively remodeled to maintain its historical charfor the dynamic acter, that residents began to rally for a renaissance. evolution of Nob Hill’s revitalization was slow — but steady. Today, the architectural neighborhood, which spans the seven blocks between styles in the Girard Boulevard and Carlisle Boulevard, is a showcase for the dynamic evolution of archimid-20th century. tectural styles in the mid-20th century. And the commercial district lining Central Avenue rivals Old Town for eating, drinking and boutique-ing, all with a decidedly hipper vibe. Case in point, after combing through handmade turquoise jewelry displayed beneath three dozen or so antique chandeliers at Gertrude Zachary, I cross Central Avenue for a snack. It’s a tough decision between Olo Yogurt Studio, Squeezed Juice Bar and ChocolateDude Coffee & Candy. I settle on the juice bar and sit outside at the bistro table enjoying a Brazilian Fusion — organic granola with Brazilian açai berries, raspberries and banana slices, topped with almond milk and honey. That’s not to say that Nob Hill is without quirk. Kellys Brew Pub occupies a historical building from 1939 that housed the Jones Motor Company and retains the original gas pumps and neon signage for “Service” and “Lubrication” on the building’s exterior. Behind it, also in an old auto service building, visitors will find The Flower Shop at Nob Hill, conveniently located across the street from A Celebration of Love, a Vegas-style wedding chapel complete with a JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
35
MUST EATS New restaurants are popping up in Nob Hill faster than man buns and beards. These favorites are sure shots.
BRU NCH
Limonata Crepes all day, plus worldclass espresso, macchiato, cappuccino, latte, mocha, and more. freshcitrus.us
VINTAGE FLAVOR
Clockwise from top: The HiwayHouse Motel, founded in 1956; retro VW style at ChocolateDude Coffee & Candy; happy hour at Zinc Wine Bar & Bistro.
LU NCH
Scalo Northern Italian Grill Wood-fired pizza served on white linen tablecloths. scalonobhill.com
DINNER
Zinc Wine Bar & Bistro French-influenced cuisine, handcrafted cocktails, cozy bar downstairs. zincabq.com
CO FFEE
House-roasted coffee and accompaniments with charming outdoor seating. michaelthomascoffee.com
36
drive-thru window that’s coincidentally (or not) located next door to a law firm. Central Avenue is dotted with neon signs that pay homage to its Route 66 history, including the kitschy HiwayHouse Motel, the lone survivor of a defunct 1950s motorhotel chain. My buddy Paul, an Albuquerque native and happily married father of three, points out Sachs Body Modification, nestled between Off Broadway Vintage Clothing and Costumes (a longtime Nob Hill staple) and B2B: Burgers to Beer Bistonomy (a brandnew burger joint with 34 local beers on tap). “I got this 20 years ago at Sachs,” he says, sticking out his tongue to display a piercing I never knew existed. Later in the afternoon, I walked over to Nob Hill’s most recent mural-in-progress, located on the outside wall of Satellite Coffee.
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
There, 28-year-old Albuquerque native (and 10-year Nob Hill resident) Aaron Stromberg is hard at work. He tells me the mural was commissioned in honor of Nob Hill’s 100th birthday in 2016. In the center stands D.K.B. Sellers, a fedora shading his eyes and one of his beloved springer spaniels at his feet. At the far right end of the mural, Stromberg is putting the finishing touches on a woman, his wife, Jasmine, he tells me, walking their dog. He says he chose to depict Jaz and Thor in celebration of Nob Hill’s dog-friendly, pedestrian lifestyle. “We take Thor with us to Tractor Brewing Company all the time,” he says. “It’s just a couple blocks from our house.” I can’t help but think that Nob Hill today is not as D.K.B. Sellers envisioned — it’s better.
IVANASTAR /ISTOCK (HIWAY ); SERGIO SALVADOR (ZINC).
Michael Thomas Coffee Roaster
ou’ll never, ever forget the magical moments of winter in Pagosa Springs. The feeling of exuberance as you ski through the deep, untouched snow at Wolf Creek Ski Resort. The quiet solitude of the perfect cross country trail. The giggles from the kids sledding. And the bliss of a rejuvenating soak in one of our famous hot springs. Slow down and enjoy living life to its fullest.
Y
Discover Colorado’s Secret at VisitPagosaSprings.com JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
37
Dorado uncovers some of the region’s best off-the-radar destinations, artisans and products.
21
underappreciated treasures you must experience
the undiscovered
38
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: PRATT REDD; WENDY McEAHERN; AJ HUBBARD; AZUTOPIA.COM
southwest GET BUSY
Clockwise from top left: Utah’s Brian Head Resort; Native American goods at Shiprock Santa Fe; Chef James Bradford’s steak au poivre; the Crack swimming hole in Sedona, Arizona.
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
39
DILLON RESERVOIR Frisco, Colorado
As a landlocked state, Colorado isn’t exactly known for its remote islands, but that’s what you’ll find at Dillon Reservoir, near Frisco, Colorado. This large mountain lake is home to more than a dozen islands, many accessible only by canoe, kayak or stand-up paddleboard. A Sunday morning brunch picnic on an island surrounded by mountains is totally unique, and you’d be hard-pressed to run into anyone other than an osprey or a bald eagle, as few people ever explore the reservoir’s islands. The Frisco Bay Marina, on the reservoir’s shores, allows visitors to enjoy flat-water activities such as guided boat tours, canoeing, kayaking, fishing, sailing and stand-up paddleboarding, from early June through mid-September. Fly-fishing is available year-round at the marina, and Dillon Reservoir is one of only two locations in the lower 48 states where arctic char can be caught; peak arctic char season in Frisco is September through November.
❝In Sedona, venture out to the Crack — an amazing swimming hole where you can jump off the red rocks into Beaver Creek. Because it’s 4 miles out, it’s a lot less crowded than our other swimming holes.❞ —Darlene Wilcox, concierge at Hilton Sedona Resort at Bell Rock
BRIAN HEAD RESORT
BRIAN HEAD, UTAH With more than 360 inches of snow annually, Brian Head Resort is Utah’s secret haven for skiers and snowboarders. Its 71 laid-back runs start at 9,600 feet — the highest base elevation in the state. Want to stay on the mountain? Score a room at the Grand Lodge for under $200 (even on the weekend!).
40
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
In the late 1800s, wood-framed cabins in Kansas were dismantled and shipped to a narrow valley in New Mexico dubbed “Coal Gulch” to house coal miners and their families. This narrow valley would later become the town site of Madrid. After demand for coal dropped, the almost-ghost town came close to death. But luckily, there were people who loved it enough to make sure it regained its health. It’s now a quaint little town of roughly 400 full-time residents. About an hour’s drive from Albuquerque, a creative community awaits you with more than 40 shops and galleries, several restaurants, a spa and a museum.
THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: JOHN CHORLTON; RYAN HEFFERNAN; BEN BLANKENBURG. OPPOSITE PAGE: KELLY CAPPELLI
Madrid, New Mexico
FASHION BY ROBERT BLACK Scottsdale, Arizona
Shoppers can get a peek into the past as they browse co-owners Robert Black and Doreen Picerne’s selection of elegant designer vintage finds. Located in Old Town Scottsdale, the boutique is filled with hand-picked items from around the world. In it, you’ll find items including summer dresses, red carpet couture, special occasion pieces and just the right accessory.
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
41
❝I love the hike to Vestal Basin, near Silverton. The raging rivers, babbling brooks, and views of the Grenadier sub-range (with Vestal Peak thrusting into the skyline), make it a must-do for any lover of Colorado’s stunning panoramas. After a couple thousand feet of vertical gain and a few miles of trekking, I love to take a solid break at the Beaver Ponds before the final push for Vestal Basin. I encourage you to press on for three more miles, so Vestal Basin can reward you with its pristine meadow and breathtaking views. If you like to linger, consider bringing an overnight pack, and enjoy a few more moments in this untouched solitary wilderness.❞ —Jordan Martindell, adventure writer
42
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
SALT RIVER
THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: COURTESY THE HERMOSA INN; JOHN GARY BROWN; COURTESY OF ARIZONA OUTBACK ADVENTURES/SCOTTSDALE CVB. OPPOSITE: KENNAN HARVEY.
CENTRAL ARIZONA
Travis Nass
Paradise Valley, Arizona Looking for a taste of Arizona? Self-styled spirit guide Travis Nass has just the cocktail: El Ultimo at the Hermosa Inn’s Last Drop Bar. “It feels like drinking the desert after a monsoon,” Nass says about the heady concoction of sotol por siempre, chareau aloe vera liqueur, green chartreuse and lime juice, served with a cucumber slice. Nass’ menu at the Last Drop Bar features Arizona beers and cocktails that mix the traditional with the imaginative. “It can be a dining and drinking adventure to come and see us — but if you just want a gin and tonic, we’ll make you a great gin and tonic. I’d say it’s a fair balance between the comfortable and the exotic.”
Winding 200 miles across central Arizona, the Salt River provides a lush reprieve from the Sonoran Desert, complete with cottonwoods, wild horses, bald eagles and trout aplenty. Its mild climate and gentle waters also make it a great spot for boating, kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding nearly year-round. And at just 40 miles northwest of Phoenix, the scenic recreation area is a quick road trip from Arizona’s big city.
SIDESHOW EMPORIUM & GALLERY DURANGO, COLORADO
CREEDE REPERTORY THEATRE Creede, Colorado
In 1966, the mining industry in tiny Creede, Colorado, was in steep decline, and city leaders needed a new source of income. So what else to do but start a professional theater company? Today, the Creede Repertory Theatre boasts award-winning plays, musical events and concerts to several thousand visitors every year. This year, expect rotating plays ranging from the techno-drama The (curious case of the) Watson Intelligence to CRT’s improv-comedy show Boomtown. CRT’s season runs from May to September and produces seven to 10 plays in rotating repertory.
Sideshow Emporium used to be the go-to destination for vintage duds and quirky accessories in Dolores, Colorado, but customer demand relocated this quirky shop to Durango. Owner Heather Narwid carefully curates the selection of doodads, making your hunt less like finding a needle in a haystack and more like a debate on how many treasures you can fit in your bag. JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
43
SHIPROCK SANTA FE
Santa Fe, New Mexico Jed Foutz draws on five generations of art dealing for his Shiprock Santa Fe, located in the city’s historic Silver building. There, you’ll find Santa Fe’s largest selection of Navajo weavings (including Ed Foutz’s personal textile collection), mixed-media art from nascent Native American artists and legendary pieces from icons like Charles and Ray Eames.
44
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
JEMEZ FALLS CAMPGROUND JEMEZ, NEW MEXICO For a solitary experience, plan a spring or fall trip to Jemez Falls. Breathe in the pine-scented air while hiking down the namesake waterfall. In addition, just a short trek from your temporary home, McCauley Hot Springs’ warm pools are the perfect (and somewhat romantic) way to top off a solid day of exploring in the Santa Fe National Forest.
13 14
15
SNOWMASS LAKE Aspen, Colorado
“Snowmass Lake is one of the many glacier lakes in the Aspen area. An 8-mile hike in through beautiful aspen trees and a roaring Snowmass Creek will make you wish the trail never ended. The lake will take your breath away with its beauty! Set up camp right beside the lake, make some food and prepare to watch the most beautiful sunset you have ever seen.” —Lane Johnson, founder of Atlas Hands Travel
OUTLOOK LODGE GREEN MOUNTAIN FALLS, COLORADO
Chef James Bradford
THIS PAGE, TOP: CAM McLEOD; RIGHT: CHASE CROWSON. OPPOSITE: WENDY McEAHERN.
Ogden, Utah
Local, fresh and homemade are words popping up a lot these days. And at Hearth on 25th, all those descriptions apply. Chef James Bradford and his team make nearly all of the components of their menu in-house, including sourdough bread, jalapeno aioli and squid ink fettucine. What they can’t make, such as produce, they get from area farmers. “We change our menu seasonally to select what we’re able to get locally and try to keep the dish seasonally appropriate,” Bradford says. While Salt Lake City may be first in tourists’ minds, Bradford says downtown Ogden has a lot to offer. “Ogden is like that hidden gem that they’ve been working on brushing the dust off and really making it shine.”
4UR RANCH CREEDE, COLORADO
For those looking for charm without the kitsch, the Outlook Lodge provides contemporary amenities within a mod-Victorian package. Located just outside of Colorado Springs, the Outlook Lodge provides a custom and more silent service experience. Guests are invited to explore the many surrounding hiking trails, shop and dine in town, or just relax in the rustic simplicity of the hotel’s atmosphere.
The all-inclusive packages at 4UR luxury guest ranch provide horseback riding, fishing, rafting, golfing and relaxing — all in the beautiful surroundings of Colorado’s Mineral County. Think rural and rustic means rough? The grilled Colorado rack of lamb, hot springs and massages will change your mind. And children’s programming means you get to enjoy this Rocky Mountain playground without having to keep track of your little ones.
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
45
DISCOVER MORE
For more up-and-coming artists, destinations and products, visit doradomagazine.com/undiscovered.
46
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
17
❝Little Toro Designs is about to launch their first line of modern Southwest enamel, brass and copper jewelry, and it couldn’t be more characteristic of the style of the Old Pueblo right now. I own a pair of the arrowhead earrings which never fail to bring me compliments.❞ —Alexandra Gjurasic, artist
Opus Hut Ophir, Colorado
Crossing avalanche fields and breaking trail in 4 feet of freshly fallen snow is the price we pay for access to some of the best backcountry skiing in the Southwest. Lucky for us, this fluffy backcountry powder comes with a warm hut, a personal chef and, for a little extra, a professional guide. The Opus Hut, nestled on the top of Ophir Pass between Silverton and Telluride, combines fresh powder with cushy accommodations. Not needing to haul multiple days worth of food and supplies means a little more energy spent daydreaming about skiing the gentle pristine slopes and narrow chutes.
THE BLUE ACES Provo, Utah
Austin. Seattle. Los Angeles. Provo? This otherwise sleepy Utah college town has recently become home to a burgeoning music scene, and four teenage girls might just be the town’s next big thing. Cristal Ramirez, Katie Henderson, McKenna Petty and Alisa Ramirez, otherwise known as The Blue Aces, are following in the footsteps of other Provo-based bands like Imagine Dragons and Neon Trees, playing sold-out shows at downtown’s hippest music venue, Velour. Listen now and brag later: You liked them before they were cool.
THIS PAGE: ALEX FENLON (OPUS). OPPOSITE: ANDREW MAGUIRE
“In tiny Mexican Hat, Utah, there’s a restaurant where they cook their steaks in a swing over the grill. It’s appropriately named Swing Steak. I don’t know what the magic of the swing is, but the steaks are great.” —JAKE LINZINMEIR, CHEF AND RESTAURATEUR
21
NATHANIEL’S MANCOS, COLORADO
Southwestern Colorado is home to the country’s only Native American master hatter: Nate Funmaker. Stop by his shop on Grand Avenue, which showcases his transitional, traditional and Old West hats in both rabbit and beaver fur felt. But perhaps the real treat involves Funmaker’s tools of the trade — 100-year-old hat-making equipment that truly characterizes the historical trade.
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
47
A MOVEABLE FEAST It’s not every meal that begins with a cross-country ski. JEN MURPHY snowshoes the rolling hills of Crested Butte, Colorado, where a cozy yurt with a five-course dinner awaits
48
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
THIS PAGE: FAWN DEVINEY, FOOD ST YLING BY CONSTANCE HIGLEY. OPPOSITE, X AVIER FANE.
DINNER AND A SKI
A magical treat awaits skiers and snowshoers in the Colorado woods: a candle-lit yurt with delicious food, local spirits and live music.
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
49
dapper-looking man in a bow tie and a stylish woman with fur earmuffs crowning her long blond braid and a string of pearls dangling from her neck have just skate-skied past me at an alarming pace. “Date night, Colorado style,” says my guide. The couple have a coveted reservation for dinner at Magic Meadows Yurt, a backcountry dining experience that has long been a hit with Crested Butte locals and is now drawing out-of-towners looking to experience great food and drink in the middle of the snowy wilderness. Crested Butte, an 1880s mining town and designated National Register Historic District, has always had a strong sense of community, where fun trumps fancy and even something as mundane as dinner turns into an adventure. In 2007, the team at Crested Butte Nordic built a giant yurt in the backcountry of Slate River Valley. Nordic skiers and snowshoers could stop in to warm up from the winter chill, and a few informal dinners were hosted for friends willing to don headlamps and snowshoe or cross-country ski the mile-long trail to and from dinner. Word spread of dinner parties, and in 2010 Crested Butte Nordic refined the logistics of the dinners, posting dates and menus on its website and attracting crowds of up to 40 guests. Cross-country skis and snowshoes are the preferred mode of winter transportation for locals, but then not-so-snow-savvy foodies from cities like L.A. and New York started booking reservations at Magic Meadows Yurt. “We realized the dinners were becoming a tourist attraction,” says Drew Holbrook, director of marketing and development for Crested Butte Nordic. “People were coming to town just to experience a yurt dinner, and many of these people had never been on cross-country skis or snowshoes before.” My friends and I fall into this group. We all snowboard or downhill ski, so we could surely survive a mile-long trek through the woods along gently rolling hills, especially if we’d be rewarded with a fivecourse feast, live music and a wood-burning fire. To accommodate newbies like us, Crested Butte Nordic recently changed the dinners to an all-inclusive experience. For $125, not only do you get dinner and drinks, but also equipment rentals and a guide to lead you to and from the yurt. Our group of six friends meets at the Crested Butte Nordic Center, where we are sized for equipment. I’d imagined wearing old-school, tennis racket-shaped wooden snowshoes like I’d seen in old L.L.Bean catalogs, but instead I am given a pair of plastic Atlas snowshoes, which slip right over my boots.
THE MAN NEXT TO ME REVEALS A SMALL FLASK IN HIS POCKET AND WINKS. “ONCE WE START MOVING ON THE TRAIL YOU’LL BE PLENTY WARM.”
50
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
SNOW GLOW
Clockwise from top: Cross-country skis or snowshoes are the preferred mode of transportation to the Magic Meadows Yurt; ski boots warm up by the fire; dinner is served.
TOP AND RIGHT: X AVIER FANE. BOTTOM LEFT: FAWN DEVINEY. FOOD ST YLING BY CONSTANCE HIGLEY.
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
51
JOSEPHINE KELLETT’S MAGIC MEADOWS MENU
LEMON CAULIFLOWER AND CARROT SOUP
HERB-ENCRUSTED SALMON LEMON AIOLI
JOSEPHINE’S TIRAMISU
2 tablespoons coriander seeds 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, more for serving 4 cups onion, peeled and diced ¼ cup minced garlic cloves 4 cups carrots (2 pounds), peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces 1 tablespoon kosher salt 10 cups vegetable stock or water 1 head cauliflower, chopped 2 ounces white miso 1 teaspoon lemon zest 2 ounces lemon juice, more to taste Smoky paprika, for serving Coarse sea salt, for serving Cilantro leaves, for serving
4 fillets of salmon, pin bones removed and skin off, about 6 ounces each Salt and pepper ½ teaspoon Dijon mustard 1 tablespoon good mayonnaise
Custard ½ bottle of Marsala reduces to 4 ounces 1 pound of Mascarpone cheese 6 eggs separated 2 ⁄3 cup sugar divided
Add carrots, crushed coriander, salt and 10 cups stock (or water) to the pot. Bring mixture to a simmer and cook, uncovered, 5 minutes. Stir in cauliflower and cook, covered, over medium-low heat until the vegetables are very tender, about 10 minutes. Add miso and stir to incorporate. Remove the soup from the heat. Using an immersion blender, purée the soup until smooth. (Alternatively, you can let soup cool slightly then purée it in batches in a food processor or blender.) If necessary, return the puréed soup to the heat to warm through. Stir in the lemon zest and juice just before serving. Drizzle with oil and sprinkle with paprika, sea salt and cilantro leaves.
52
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
Aioli 2 egg yolks ¼ teaspoon fresh garlic ½ cup olive oil 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice Salt and white pepper to taste In a food processor, blend the egg yolks and garlic until light and frothy. Drop by drop add the olive oil until the emulsification begins, alternating olive oil and lemon juice. Add salt and pepper. Heat a heavy fry pan till almost smoking, season salmon with salt and pepper and sear the fillets for 30 seconds a side. Put in a baking dish. Mix the mustard and mayonnaise together and spread a thin layer on top of each of the salmon fillets. Mix the ingredients for the herb crust and pack it over the spread. Finish the encrusted salmon fillets in a 450 degree oven for 10-15 minutes depending on your oven and salmon internal temperature desired. Put the aioli in a squeeze bottle or sandwich bag with the corner snipped and drizzle on the fish, and serve.
Ladyfingers 1 cup espresso coffee 1 cup simple syrup 2 tablespoon brandy 25-30 ladyfingers Shaved chocolate Cocoa powder In a heavy-bottom saucepan, reduce the Marsala wine to 4 ounces, allow to cool. Mix with Mascarpone cheese. Whip egg yolks till light and fluffy, add to cheese mixture. Whip egg whites with 1 ⁄3 cup sugar till soft peaks form, then add to cheese mixture. In a shallow mixing bowl combine coffee, simple syrup and brandy. Dip ladyfingers into the mixture, and line an 8-x-10-inch pan with the soaked ladyfingers. Spoon half of the cheese mixture over the ladyfingers and smooth flat with a spatula, then sprinkle shaved chocolate over the cheese mixture. Repeat this process to make 2 layers and refrigerate for 2 hours before cutting. Serve on a plate with more shaved chocolate and sprinkle with cocoa powder.
ON THE MENU, ONLINE
For more elevated recipes from Chef Josephine Kellett, visit doradomagazine.com/magicmeadows.
THIS PAGE: FAWN DEVINEY. FOOD ST YLING BY CONSTANCE HIGLEY. OPPOSITE: X AVIER FANE.
In a large, dry pot over medium heat, toast coriander seeds until fragrant and dark golden-brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to a mortar and pestle and coarsely crush. Return the pot to medium heat. Add the oil and heat until warm. Stir in onion; cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and lightly colored, 7 to 10 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook 1 minute.
Herb crust Fresh herbs totaling ¼ cup packed herbs — parsley, chives, basil, dill — depending what is on hand ½ teaspoon fresh pepper ¼ cup Japanese breadcrumbs (panko) 2 tablespoons shredded Parmesan cheese
APRÈS SKI
A post-dinner trek under rural Colorado’s starry firmament.
Outside, flurries sprinkle to the ground. We’re bundled up to the point where our arms can barely come down to our sides, while other guests are dressed down in North Face shells and Patagonia puffies — and some simply wear sweaters and jeans. The man next to me reveals a small flask in his pocket and winks. “Once we start moving on the trail you’ll be plenty warm,” he says in earnest. The Gronk Trailhead, marked by a large concrete structure left over from historical mining operations, is just a five-minute drive from the Nordic Center. My five friends and I — three on cross-country skis, two on snowshoes — pile out of the car, strap on our gear and follow our guide along the trail. The sun is just starting to set over Paradise Divide, and the sky takes on a golden glow. I feel like I’m learning to walk for the first time but once I find my rhythm, picking my feet up high through the snow, I gain confidence and finally begin to admire the backcountry beauty — babbling creeks, snow-covered beaver dams and the way the snowflakes glisten in the twilight. Other diners breeze by us like Olympic pros, but we take our time and double over laughing when a cross-country ski race between our friends Henry and Michael ends with both of them face-planting in the snow. After 40 minutes on the trail, we spot the yurt glowing like a winter wonderland mirage in the middle of the woods. I barely have my mittens off when a server hands me a minty welcome mojito made with local Montanya rum. It’s just around 6 p.m., and a crowd of about 35 fills the room snacking on salmon mousse toast points and other appetizers. People have stripped off their layers to reveal button-down shirts and mohair sweaters. My friends and I look like we’ve just come out of a hot yoga class — rosy-cheeked from our exertion on the trail.
I spy the stylish couple in the bow tie and pearls clinking glasses of wine at a corner table for two. We join four other outof-town friends at a large communal table by the fire. Earlier in the day Josephine Kellett, the chef and owner of Creative Catering in Crested Butte, took all the makings for our feast up to the yurt by snowmobile. Despite being a one-woman show, she sends out dish after dish like clockwork from the yurt’s tiny kitchen, outfit with nothing more than a small oven and propane stove. Her cauliflower and carrot soup is garnished with lemon zest and paprika, and my friends have no shame picking up the bowl with both hands to ensure they finish every last sip. I’ve ordered the duck breast and wheat berry pilaf. A dried-cherry sauce delivers a tart punch that complements the subtle gaminess of the duck. My friend Beth and I swap halfway through our meals so I can taste the herb-encrusted salmon that’s been finished with a zingy lemon aioli. We’re out of cell range, which means the tables are full of conversation rather than iPhone zombies posting food pics on Instagram. Local musician Bill Dowell jams on his acoustic guitar, and by the time a silky, brandy-spiked tiramisu is brought to the table for the finale people are singing and dancing. The warmth from the fire, the pints of Elevation craft brews and the rich meal have left me in a lovely food daze, but my friends remind me we’ve still got to make it home. I struggle to zip my ski pants as I bundle back up and strap on my headlamp. The cold air reinvigorates me as we start our slow adventure home. The trail is lined with torches to ensure we don’t lose our way but it’s easy to follow the echoes of laughter leading back to town. Beth and I pause to stare up at the clear sky, flecked with stars, and wonder how we’ll ever go back to restaurants that require high heels and Uber now that we’ve experienced the thrill of dining by snowshoe.
ONCE I FIND MY RHYTHM, PICKING MY FEET UP HIGH THROUGH THE SNOW, I FINALLY BEGIN TO ADMIRE THE BACKCOUNTRY BEAUTY.
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
53
The classic cool of motorcycle chic stirs the spirit of adventure. Take to the scenic open roads of southern Utah
WILD FREE
&
photography by
Sinuhe Xavier
On her: Shoes by Joe’s, available at Nordstrom. Shirtdress by Rag & Bone, available at Cake Boutique, Park City, Utah. Sweater by Elizabeth and James, available at Cake Boutique. Sunglasses by Tom Ford, available at Neiman Marcus. Necklace and ring by Loree Rodkin, available at Stanley Korshak. On him: Pants by Dickies Construct, available at The Stockist, Salt Lake City. Jacket by Nudie Jeans, available at Bastille, Salt Lake City. Watch by Filson, available at Neiman Marcus. Sunglasses by Ray-Ban. Blanket by Woolrich, available at The Stockist. Bag by Filson, available at Pinto Ranch.
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
55
On him: Riding jacket, jeans and boots by Rev’it. On her: Riding jacket and boots by Alpinestars. Riding jeans by Rev’it. Helmets by Arai. OPPOSITE Jacket by Vince, available at Nordstrom. Fringe shirt by Line & Dot, available at Mary Jane’s, Park City, Utah. Jeans by Citizens of Humanity, available at Neiman Marcus. Shoes by Badgley Mischka, available at Nordstrom. Sunglasses by Oliver Peoples West, available at Cake Boutique, Park City, Utah. Turquoise cuffs, available at Shiprock Santa Fe.
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
57
TOP On her: Jacket by T by Alexander Wang, available at Cake Boutique, Park City, Utah. Shirt by Burberry available at Nordstrom. Denim by 7 For All Mankind, available at Mary Jane’s, Park City, Utah. Turquoise cuff, available at Shiprock Santa Fe. ABOVE On him: Watch by Tudor. RIGHT On him: T-shirt by John Elliott + Co., available at The Stockist, Salt Lake City. Sunglasses by Native Eyewear, available at REI. Jacket by Rivay. Watch by Filson, available at Neiman Marcus. FAR RIGHT Sunglasses by Tom Ford, available at Neiman Marcus. Gloves by Oscar for Alpinestars.
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
59
60
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
THIS PAGE On her: Hat by Iron and Resin, dress by Bishop + Young, and cape by Woolrich, all available at The Stockist, Salt Lake City. Boots, vintage. OPPOSITE On him: Riding jacket, jeans and boots by Rev’it. Helmet by Arai. On her: Riding jacket by Alpinestars. Riding jeans by Rev’it. Helmet by Arai.
On her: Poncho by Pendleton x Lindsey Thornburg, available at Farasha Boutique, Park City, Utah. On him: Shirt by Woolrich, available at Neiman Marcus. Bandana by Levi’s Vintage Collection. Jeans by G-Star, available at Bastille, Salt Lake City. Models: Lindsay and Jai. Wardrobe styling by Laura Kiechle. Hair and makeup by Amy Kiechle.
62
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
THE NEW
SCOTT DW SMITH
SKI BARONS
64
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
Two men are injecting millions of dollars into well-established ski resorts near TAOS, DURANGO and FLAGSTAFF, transforming these small, much-loved getaways — and winter sports in the Southwest BY PET ER VI GNERON
NAME DROPPING
Among James Coleman’s first acts after buying the Durango Mountain Resort: changing the heavenly ski destination’s name back to Purgatory.
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
65
A
FEW YEARS AGO, Taos Ski Valley in New Mexico was looking a little ragged. Skier visits had fallen to 215,000 from a high of 350,000 in the mid-1990s. The base area hadn’t been updated much since it was built in the 1970s. There wasn’t a single high-speed quad lift. A collection of modern, high-end, slopeside condos, developed in 2008, struggled to attract buyers. In December 2013, that all changed. The Blake family — owners of Taos Ski Valley since Ernie Blake founded the resort in 1954 — sold it to Louis Bacon, founder and CEO of Moore Capital Management, a New Yorkbased hedge fund. A few months later, news broke that Durango, Colorado-real estate developer James Coleman had purchased beloved local ski hill Purgatory. This summer, Coleman, who also owns New Mexico mountains Pajarito and Sipapu, bought Arizona’s Snowbowl, just outside of Flagstaff. Within months, the normally staid Southwest ski market had received a bigger injection of energy — and more important, money — than it had seen in more than two decades. In Taos, Bacon has committed to $300 million “ THERE’S A SCALE in upgrades over 10 years, AND AN INTIMACY most of which will follow a master plan developed in THAT YOU GET 2010 and approved by the AT TAOS THAT U.S. Forest Service. “A lot of what we’re doing right YOU DON’T GET now, we’ve planned on for ANYWHERE ELSE.” 10 or 15 years,” says Gordon Briner, CEO of Taos Ski Valley. “With the new ownership we’ve gotten the support to go ahead.” At Purgatory, Coleman has pledged more than $10 million, which will go to three new chairlifts and an update to the mountain’s aging snowmaking capacity. All that follows a new lift at Snowbowl. And skiers who buy seasons passes to any one of Coleman’s mountains will be able to use them at the three others.
66
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
LOUIS BACON, who declined an interview request for this story, founded MCM in 1989. He lives primarily in New York but has been skiing at Taos for more than 20 years. A strong skier, he’s been spotted on the mountain during some of the past winters’ biggest storms. He also owns several ranches in southern Colorado, including 174,000 acres in the San Luis Valley. That parcel and a smaller ranch near Trinidad are subject to development restrictions, making them among the largest swatches of privately conserved land in the West. Bacon’s grandfather, Louis T. Moore, fought to conserve North Carolina forests in the early 20th century. Accordingly, says Briner, the redevelopment plan has made environmental sustainability a priority in a number of key upgrades. A new 65-bed hotel, which will anchor a rebuilt base area, will be
ILLUSTR ATIONS BY JOHN S. DYKES; RYAN HEFFERNAN ( ABOVE); COURTESY TAOS SKI VALLEY (RIGHT).
LEED certified. This summer, the mountain also invested more than $800,000 in energy-efficient snowmaking compressors. Other improvements include developments that will make the mountain accessible to yearround visitors, something Briner says Taos fell behind on. “The Colorado areas did a very good job of both updating their mountains, and updating their base areas,” he says. Plans include a ropes course, a zip-line and more mountain bike trails in addition to the summer activities Taos already offers: Frisbee golf and cultural schools where students can learn ballet, German and opera. The major project this year is the hotel, which will address the shortage of lodging at the mountain itself. Taos’ location — tucked into a canyon below 13,159-foot Wheeler Peak and surrounded by national forest land — has forced many skiers to stay in town, 15 miles away, and left plenty (me included) wishing for a more lively après scene. But the resort’s geography also ensures Taos won’t
ever become Vail — there just isn’t enough space for mega-development. Rather, says Briner, the goal is to enhance what’s notable about Taos — steep, demanding skiing — and keep some of its legendary quirkiness. “There’s a scale and an intimacy that you get at Taos that you don’t get anywhere else,” he says. But as with any strong local ski culture, change isn’t always welcome. Low skier visits have meant that I’ve often been able to find late-afternoon powder stashes, even during weekend storms. And some longtime Taos skiers have groused about the Kachina Peak chairlift, which brings quick access to the famed, above-treeline bowl that used to require a 45-minute boot pack. Midwinter last year, some sections of Kachina were covered in moguls. And a proposed expansion to Taos Municipal Airport, which would better accommodate skiers traveling on private
SNOW JOBS
Louis Bacon has committed to $300 million in upgrades to Taos Ski Valley resort. Locals love the jobs and rising property values — but skiers worry that the slopes will lose a bit of their rugged charm.
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
67
68
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
JAMES COLEMAN,
a native Texan, moved to Durango 10 years ago. He first skied at Purgatory as a teenager. “It changed my life plan,” he says. “It switched from a beach focus to the mountains.” Shortly after that trip, Coleman decided he wanted to buy his own resort. He purchased Sipapu, south of Taos, 15 years ago. Coleman began talking with the Cobb family, who has owned Purgatory since the late 1990s, when he and his family moved to Durango. The first change he made was the mountain’s name; the Cobbs had rebranded it as Durango Mountain Resort in 2000. Locals had generally ignored the change. “When I made the announcement, the employees all asked about the name,” Coleman says. “I said, ‘Well, I thought it was always called Purgatory.’” Coleman spent 10 days skiing in South America this summer with his son and says he plans to ski
ILLUSTR ATIONS BY JOHN S. DYKES
jets, has been heavily criticized by local groups. Briner says the mountain supports revamping the airport but isn’t involved in planning or funding the expansion. One aspect of Bacon’s purchase and the subsequent development is resoundingly popular: Contractors overseeing work on the project have made a careful effort to hire local tradespeople, particularly for plumbing, electrical and finish work. In a region of New Mexico that has struggled to recover from the 2008 real estate crisis and was just hit with the closure of the nearby Questa Mine, the additional jobs are a relief.
PHOTOGR APHY COURTESY ARIZONA SNOWBOWL (LEFT); COURTESY PURGATORY RESORT (RIGHT).
GREAT ESCAPES
“ [PURGATORY] CHANGED MY LIFE PLAN. IT SWITCHED FROM A BEACH FOCUS TO THE MOUNTAINS.” about 60 days this winter. He hopes to attract skiers from the region, especially families who could choose to road trip and ski in Colorado, New Mexico or Arizona, depending on weather. Skier visits have increased steadily since Coleman took over at Sipapu, and he expects similar growth at the other mountains. “We’re making it better and more convenient” to ski in the Southwest, he says. Of course, luring more skiers to the Southwest isn’t just a matter of updating aging infrastructure. Skier visits across the Rocky Mountains often reflect snowfall totals, and the Southwest
This summer, James Coleman bought Snowbowl (far left) in northern Arizona, adding the resort to his portfolio, which includes Pajarito and Sipapu In New Mexico and Purgatory (above) in Colorado.
has been in a drought for most of the past five years. But as northern New Mexico prepares for a big El Niño winter, the updates and renovations couldn’t be coming at a better time. At Taos, Briner says fall season-pass sales were the best he’s ever seen. “That’s a good sign,” he says. “We’re seeing a lot of interest because of the improvements we made last year and the forecasted snow this year. We’re quite optimistic.”
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
69
BEAUTY in many forms.
Subscribe to have the landscapes, people and culture of THE SOUTHWEST delivered to your door. Or visit online for exclusive stories, content and inspiration for your NEXT GREAT ADVENTURE. WWW.DORADOMAGAZINE.COM
70
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
AT HOME 1
REFINED SOUTHWESTERN LIVING AND STYLE
Chair Apparent
A comfy wingback chair is a living room essential for winter weather. This one is Belgianinspired, handcrafted in the U.S. and can be upholstered in any fabric or leather. Throw a sheepskin or cashmere blanket over the back, pull it up to a fireplace and curl up with a good book. Celine Wing Chair by Verellen, $3,950 as shown, Found, Houston foundforthehome.com
Winter Whites
5 cozy, must-have objects to warm up your home when it’s chilly outside
KAREN SACHAR
BY JA I M E G I L L I N
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
71
AT H OME
2
White Hot
No kiva? No problem. Spark Modern Fires’ new Slim Fire Ribbon line is its most innovative and adaptable fireplace yet. It’s less than 8 inches deep, doesn’t require any venting, and hangs on the wall — meaning it can be easily installed almost anywhere. Bring the heat. Spark Fire Ribbon Vent Free Slim, price on request, sparkfires.com
Q&A
David Naylor
Founder, David Naylor Interiors, Santa Fe
3
Red, White and Blue
A Native-inspired wool blanket is a Southwest standard — both timeless and aesthetically on trend — and instantly imparts winter warmth. Just throw it over your sofa or fold a few into a basket for easy access in case of chilly shoulders. Pendleton’s are heirloom quality and come in a head-spinning array of patterns; we’re partial to the bold graphics and all-American colorways of the Brave Star blanket. Pendleton blanket, $228, Anteks Home Furnishings, Dallas, antekshome.com
5
Back Woods
The photorealistic images splashed across French designer Alexandre MS’s accent pillows are cheeky and charming — and the closest thing most urbanites may get to having a woodpile or a wood-burning fireplace in their abode. Until you get the real thing, toss these pillows on your sofa for an instant coziness boost when the weather turns. Cheminee and Rodins de Bois pillows, $95, The Bazaar Project, thebazaarproject.com
4
The Right Rug
With abstract brown-andwhite patterning that resembles cowhide, the Fostat rug is a chic way to bring cabin style into even the most contemporary home. The natural wool pile layered over an earthy brown flatweave background creates rich texture and depth, and the rug comes in custom sizes to fit any space. Fostat rug, custom sizes available, price on request, Carol Piper Rugs, Houston and Dallas, carolpiperrugs.com
72
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
An expert in crafting warm, distinctively Southwestern interiors, David Naylor offers decorating tips to get your home ready for the many joys of winter — from fireside reading to holiday entertaining. When it’s cold outside, what can you layer into your home to give it a cozy feel? Adding more rugs or cowhides in a layered, casual look can warm a place up. I also tend to incorporate textures and brocaded fabrics rather than solid bright colors. What are some design elements that help make a home more conducive to entertaining friends and family? Seating, plain and simple — adding comfortable seating options to a room invites you in. I don’t like to over-furnish, but I do like to offer different options for seating. If you don’t have a ski cabin to escape to, what are some design elements that can bring that rustic feel into your own home? I’m a fan of Pendleton and Navajo blankets and sheepskins. Tossing them over sofa backs and seats can immediately warm up a cold room. What’s the best advice you like to give related to making a home welcoming and cozy in the winter? How you dress is how you should choose home fabrics. If you wouldn’t wear it, your home shouldn’t wear it, either. What’s your favorite Southwest source for winter-weather décor? I love Shiprock on Santa Fe Plaza for historic Native rugs and weavings. Every interior, whether contemporary or traditional, can be enhanced by an authentic Navajo rug.
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
73
AT H OME
A Chalet for Many Seasons 74
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
Inside out, top to bottom, this creekside Steamboat Springs home turns the traditional chalet on its head with a rooftop garden and modern style. Erinn Morgan investigates PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHARLIE DRESEN
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
75
AT H OME
S HIT THE ROOF
When the snow melts, the home’s rooftop garden becomes a warmweather gathering spot, whether for a morning cup or evening stargazing. Opposite: The open floor plan features five different sitting areas and lots of windows.
76
teamboat Springs’ famous champagne powder floats down gently, covering the rooftop garden of Steve Herron’s home. Nestled in a supremely private, wooded 2-acre lot, this modern, expansive chalet is located, surprisingly, right next to Steamboat’s bustling Old Town — but still just a mere 10-minute drive to the ski resort. And, a creek also runs through the property. That’s two braids of Butcher Creek, to be exact. “It’s my favorite feature,” says Herron, a single father of three young children who owns a Denver-based business. “I grew up in the Midwest on a large farm where there was a lot of live water, so I love this property with the two creek braids running through it. It’s a very private, lovely place where we have picnics at least once a week.” But this 3,500-square-foot, four-bedroom home’s conveniently located privacy is just one of its standout attributes. There’s the spectacular architecture and open design with huge windows that bring the outside in. There’s the specially designed joinery
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
that becomes an aesthetic element. Then there’s the 2,000-square-foot roof garden. The home’s expansive rooftop green space is a botanical and architectural success story. The garden space is also a favorite spot where Herron and his children gather. “We use it all the time — it’s wonderful,” he says. “There’s a fire pit, and we often go up there and look at the stars at night. When the kids aren’t here, it’s a good place for dad to go and have a cup of coffee.” A thriving rooftop garden is no easy feat, according to the home’s builder and original owner, Daniel Jessen. “The surprise was no one had effectively built a green roof that actually worked,” he says, noting that they found success by using subsurface irrigation — a drip system inside the soil — and the right plant mix, including seedums, succulents and yarrow. Another bonus: Jessen says that the roof garden is a sustainable building feature because it blocks ultraviolet light from the rubber roofing membrane, thus protecting it and prolonging its life. In addition, the green roof provides some insulation, keeping the home warmer or cooler depending on the season.
The rooftop garden also was a key architectural consideration. “We chose a timber frame because it can hold the soil and moisture,” Jessen says. “The biggest year we had snow-wise was 54” inches of standing snow on the roof, and it was just fine. According to Jeff Gerber, the home’s lead designer, creating a timber frame that could hold that much weight on the roof was a complicated process. “The biggest challenge was that the vegetative roof put about a 200-pounds-per-square-foot load on the roof, including snow load,” Gerber says. The test was in mixing that requirement with the more free-flowing open space design of a home constructed with timber, columns and main beam lies. Special custom joinery was engineered to solve the problem. “In the end it looks like traditional timber joinery, but it has a very complicated construction,” Gerber says. Gerber notes that one of the design goals for the home was to put it together almost as a village. The master and secondary bedrooms, along with the entryway and office, are traditionally designed, but everything in between — the main public spaces
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 • DORADO
77
AT H OME
CREEKSIDE PLEASURES Two braids of Butcher Creek run through the property, providing the Herron family with a spot for weekly picnics in the summer.
78
— is more free-flowing. “They connect the private spaces together,” says Gerber. “It’s one of the more successful aspects of the whole concept.” Living in the home, Herron says this is one of his favorite features. “There are five completely different sitting areas,” he says. “It’s almost like you can find a different space — and they also change with the light, depending on your mood. It’s also great to be able to have a separate space for the kids and their toys.” This tucked-away, modern home also boasts a truly open design that is punctuated — and facilitated — by scores of soaring glass windows that bring in the beauty of the natural landscape and changing light outside. “The inside is basically the outside,” Jessen says. Inside, special details deliver luxury and utility at the same time. Acid-etched concrete floors lend a modern, sustainable feel. A sleek, open commercial kitchen creates a gathering point and a covetable space for culinary endeavors. Outside, the home’s exterior boasts reclaimed mixed hardwood siding. In addition, a detached garage with an additional office sits on the property.
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
The interior design, curated by Kim Romig, owner of the Steamboat Springs-based Into the West, is at once formal (Herron entertains regularly) and functional (his three children range from 5 to 9 years old). In the end, Herron says that it is truly the sense of community that this close-to-town house provides that makes it a home. In addition, the property is flanked on three sides by a Steamboat Springs city park. Thus, its value is extended with additional green space in the form of public lands that provide access to a walking path. “Most of Steamboat in the Old Town area was planned on a grid,” Gerber says. “But, at the very end of this street it just falls apart and ends up feeling very rural where this home is located. It’s a neat experience to leave that gridded Old Town behind and enter this property that is very private.” And, for Herron, that privacy with a connection to community is key. “We can walk to school, we can walk to church. With three young kids, this gives us time for the family. And, we end up watching the blue herons in the yard — it’s just a wonderful place for my children to explore and experience.”
M Y DOR A DO GRANDMA’S GLASS PONY SHOP, OURAY ICE PARK, OURAY, COLORADO
Ice climbing is ephemeral — the landscapes of what you’re climbing are constantly changing, so you rarely do the same climb twice. Ouray, with its ice park, has really become a mecca of sorts for climbers, and the access to climbing there is so great. It’s the rare ice climbing destination where you can actually end your day in civilization, sipping on a warm beverage.
/DORADOMAGAZINE
@DORADOMAG
/DORADOMAGAZINE
@DORADO_MAG
Tag your photos on social media with #MyDorado to show us what you love about the Southwest. We’ll share our favorites at doradomagazine.com.
80
DORADO • JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
KEITH L ADZINSKI / CORBIS
CHRIS ALSTRIN, ICE CLIMBER AND CINEMATOGRAPHER
© C.C. FILSON 2016
FILSON MANUFACTURING SEAT TLE, WA
HIGHL A ND PA R K V ILL AGE, DA LL AS F I LSON.COM