Weekend in Durango

The Art of Slowing Down

by Joy Martin

The magic of winter in the San Juan Mountains is like a good cup of tea, warming your soul from the inside out. If you only have a couple of days to enjoy southwest Colorado during this bewitching time of year, wrap your hands around a cuppa and give this dream itinerary a quick read. Then bundle up and head out into the wonderland.

Your weekend in Durango kicks off with a day of skiing or snowboarding at Purgatory Resort. If you didn’t bring your own, rent skis at one of Durango’s convenient ski shops located along Highway 550. Or you can reserve rentals for pickup at Purgatory upon arrival.

On your way out of Durango, swing by Jean Pierre Bakery, Café and Wine Bar for hot coffee and a croissant to add flavor to the journey. As you climb in elevation, don’t be shy about stopping the car to absorb the million-dollar views of snowcapped Engineer Mountain and frosted evergreens feathering the San Juans’ dramatic ridgelines.

As long as nature’s pulling at your heartstrings, stay the course and arrive at Purgatory ready to be invigorated by the fresh air. Refresh your skills with a one-on-one lesson or head straight up the lift for instant exhilaration. With more than 1,100 acres of skiable terrain, there’s a little something for everyone to enjoy before you carry on to Durango Hot Springs Resort & Spa for an afternoon soak or spa treatment.

After a full day of fresh air, nothing hits the spot like delicious, traditional Mexican food at Nayarit, in Durango. Snuggle up in a booth, order a house margarita, and salivate over classic Nayarit fare, like Molcajete de Mariscos, Fajitas Camaron, or Mahi Tacos. Satiated by all the good things, you’ll be ready to fall asleep as quickly as flurries melt on the windshield.

Wake up to your quads reminding you of yesterday’s adventures and treat yourself to a cozy breakfast at Oscar’s Café in Town Plaza. Today’s itinerary is much more relaxed, so there’s no need to rush. Warmed by bottomless coffee and giant pancakes, a brisk walk on the Animas River Trail is the perfect antidote to bring some life back into your weary legs. The paved trail stretches nearly 10 miles along the Animas and can be accessed from a number of points. Whether the river is laced with ice or the path is packed with snow, you’ll see that the trail is the heartbeat of Durango, pulsing with the hum of bikes, strollers, and conversations.

If the weather is a bit too cold for a walkabout or you’d prefer some inside downtime, cruise over to the Sky Ute Casino Resort for an afternoon of bowling at Rolling Thunder Lanes. Whatever way you wander, circle back to Durango’s Main Avenue for some local shopping. Duck into Maria’s Bookshop

Kennan Harvey

to find your next literary escape. Revamp your outdoor gear at Pine Needle Mountaineering or Crow’s Closet. Spice up your wardrobe at the Sparrow Mercantile or Lively boutiques. Procure the perfect gift at Urban Market or Animas Trading Company.

Between shops, pop into Durango’s flourishing art galleries to peruse paintings, photography, jewelry, paper products, and more – all locally inspired and locally made. From Sorrel Sky to Toh-Atin, and from Studio & to Diane West, these galleries boast the spectrum of southwest Colorado creativity. The newish kid on the block, Create Art and Tea, recently moved to the historic enclave at 1015 Main Avenue and is proud to not only offer the return of First Friday Art Walks but also serves as your go-to spot for all things tea.

If you’ve timed your amble perfectly, you should be primed for your 4 p.m. reservation for high tea at Create. Owner Caprice Fox will be waiting with a smile. She’ll also regale you with stories from her former life as a famous vocal jazz musician, not to mention with her extravagant selection of teas – from green hibiscus to white tea with rose petals. If you need a zap of energy, Fox will recommend a strong black tea. If you can’t handle the caffeine, she’ll steer you toward herbal peppermint with cream (“like a crème de menthe,” she says) or rooibos with cinnamon chips, both delights spiked with honey.

Your table awaits, ornamented with antique dishes, her aunt’s silver spoons, and three tiers of goodies featuring petite sandwiches and desserts baked especially for you. If the snugness of a plush couch is calling your name, settle in with that cup of tea you’ve been seeking all weekend and toast to the art of slowing down.

“Tea is such a healing thing, and high tea brings manners and dignity and history to the table, too,” says Fox. “This is the greatest time of day to slow down, and Create is the place to come and feel right at home.”

Create Art and Tea