Eight Magazine 03/15 - Balance by Dusit Hotels & Resorts

Issue 3

balance

IN MANY CULTURES THE NUMBER 8

has very special significance as a strong symbol of equilibrium or balance. Nowhere is this idea of balance more apparent than in the Chinese philosophy of yin and yang: the notion that apparently opposite or contrary forces are actually complementary, interconnected and interdependent, and directly relate to one another. So, we thought, what better way to expand your horizons while getting a little more balance in your life than by examining how these contrasting elements can influence everything from people’s tastebuds to their travel plans? Selecting four such dualities – Fire and Water, Light and Dark, Earth and Sky, Sweet and Spicy, we’ve created four sections, with all of the stories and interviews relating to these components, either in isolation or as they exist in harmony with their opposing elements. It’s been fascinating and fun to realise how important many of these phenomena are in people’s lives. We’ve spoken to pâtissiers and dancers, fire jugglers and ice carvers, potters and kiteboarders, film directors and the owner of a night market, examining what draws them to their chosen careers and how particular elements play a crucial role in their work. We’ve also used the concept of balance to travel the globe too, whether that’s discovering the hidden secrets of Guam’s underground attractions or admiring the dramatic views from the top of Dubai’s gleaming skyscrapers, enjoying the sweet delights of Thailand’s burgeoning wine industry or experiencing the joys of free-diving in the magical waters of the Maldives. Of course, the Dusit is all about offering its guests a perfectly balanced experience during their stay, allowing them to enjoy both luxury and adventure, relaxation and excitement. You can find out where to have your latest adventure as we also showcase the Dusit portfolio of hotels. It’s my pleasure to introduce this issue of

Nowhere is the idea more apparent than in the philosophy of yin and yang

Eight, and I hope you enjoy reading it as much as we enjoyed creating it. If you have any feedback, write to us at customerservice@dusit.com. customers We’d love to hear from rom you.

Erena Chan V i c e P r e s i d e n t, S a l e s & M a r k e t i n g

issue 3

BALANCE Rupi Mangat

Thitipol Panyalimpanun

Sebastian Opitz

Brent Lewin

Born and raised in Kenya, Rupi’s main passions can be summed up as landscapes, wildlife, people, art and architecture, cultures and good food. Always a traveller, life on the road has allowed her imagination to run free, giving her the chance to discover things she would never have considered, whether that’s searching for weaver bird nests in Malindi or indulging in a Five-Star Feast with the best nyama choma spots in Nairobi.

A Bangkok native, Thitipol now works as a freelance writer in New York City while studying a Master’s degree in Publishing at NYU. Despite his adolescent ambition to become a songwriter never materialising, he still regularly contributes to the Siam Voices blog on AsianCorrespondent.com, covering art, culture and politics. In Beam Me Up he examines the inﬂuence light has had on the work of three creative Bangkokians.

Originally from Hamburg, Sebastian moved to Dubai seven years ago. He instantly fell in love with its imposing new rash of towering skyscrapers, and the dramatic way that they thrust up towards the heavens, transforming the city skyline. So inspired was he that he became a photographer to capture the emirate’s soaring sentinels. He shares some of his most striking images with us in The Sky’s the Limit.

Brent is a Canadian photographer and writer based in Bangkok whose work has been featured in National Geographic, The New York Times and Newsweek. His ongoing work on the vanishing culture of elephant keeping has won accolades from the International Photography Awards and American Photo magazine. In Sweet Valley High he headed to the hills of Khao Yai to discover how Thailand’s wine industry is on the road to success.

David Terrazas

Paul Chai

N i c h o l a s W a lt o n

Chawadee Nualkhair

David Terrazas originally hails from Spain, but has spent the last four years working all over Asia as a portrait, fashion and travel photographer. David shot all of the profile interviews in this issue of Eight, and captured their emotional and physical relationship with their particular element. Whether it was the flaming passion of the fire juggler or the cool, clinical approach of the ice carver, his photos help tell the story of the people behind the faces. www. davidterrazasphotography.com

Paul recently realised he’s been a journalist for longer than he hasn’t. He has written for publications such as The Sydney Morning Herald and the UK’s The Guardian and Financial Times newspapers. He spent the past 12 years as correspondent for ﬁlm bible Variety, reporting on the Australian ﬁlm industry, as well as being a freelance journalist which sees him cover everything from restaurant reviews to parenting – and, in this case, going underground in Guam to discover What Lies Beneath.

A journalist, writer and communications specialist, Nicholas recently published his ﬁrst book on the remarkable story of Genoa, the Italian city that birthed Columbus, entitled ‘La Superba’: The Rise and Fall of a Merchant Pirate Superpower. He spent 14 years at the BBC as a foreign correspondent and reported across the world, from Georgia to Sierra Leone. In between looking after his young son, he spent time Experiencing the High Growth taking place on the rooftops of Singapore.

Originally from Pittsburgh, ThaiAmerican Chow used to work for Reuters and is now a Bangkok-based freelance writer specialising in food. She is especially interested in South-East Asian food history and drinking culture, making her the perfect choice to explore the spicier side of traditional Thai desserts in Sugar and Spice. Chawadee’s blog, Bangkok Glutton (bangkokglutton. com), focuses almost exclusively on street food, and her latest guide, Thailand’s Best Street Food, is available in stores.

Ink ~ Nick Measures Editor / Alexandra Karplus Contributing Editor / Neil Smith Art Director / Jonathan Evans Chief Sub-Editor Jeanina Peñas Photo Editor / Sally Shee Production Manager / Hamish McDougall Managing Director / Simon Leslie & Michael Keating CEOs Jim Campbell Chief Operating Ofﬁcer / Andrew Humphreys Group Editorial Director. Cover image Getty Images Dusit International ~ Gerrit Klaus-Gunther Kruger Director of Branding & Loyalty Marketing Advertising Enquiries ~ Mohan Gopal Group Publisher / Nayarorn Konrajpobmonkol Media Specialist - +65 6302 2389; nayarorn.k@ink-global.com Eight is published on behalf of Dusit International by Ink Publishing Pte Ltd. All articles and photographs published herein are created by the authors and photographers at their own discretion and do not necessarily represent the views of Dusit. Dusit International holds no responsibility or liability arising out of the publication of such articles and photographs. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Ink Publishing Pte Ltd 51 Changi Business Park Central 2, The Signature, #04-11A/12, Singapore 486066. Tel +65 6324 2386, fax +65 6491 5261, www.ink-global.com. Printed by Comform Co, Ltd. MCI (P) 117/02/2014

FIRE

Photo ONE OCEAN ONE BREATH & getty images

WATER

THIS GIRL IS ON FIRE Zazi Ruengchinda has spent more than a dozen years dancing among the ďŹ&#x201A;ames, but she shows no sign of burning out anytime soon

B O R N A N D R A I S E D in Bangkok, Zazi Ruengchinda’s 13-year career as a fire dancer has taken her all over the world, from Singapore to Sweden. Her audiences have included such notables as Princess Norodom Buppha Devi of Cambodia and Britain’s Prince Andrew, the Duke of York. She explains why her passion continues to burn so brightly. What first attracted you to fire? I’ve always wanted to surprise and entertain. I fell in love with fire dancing after getting to know my seniors at university, who were teaching it. I like the unpredictability and I feel like I’m learning more every day. There are always new techniques to master and you have to train constantly. I never get tired though, because I just love performing. It’s a little like finding that special person – you just want to stay with them forever. What is the most rewarding aspect? I love the feeling after the show is over. I love the feedback and energy from the audience! Tell us about the most memorable moment? That would be when I was on a charity mission with a circus team from Canada and we went to Mae Sot on the Thai-Burmese

"I like the u n p r e d i c t a b i l i t y… I feel like I am learning every day" border to perform for the many refugees there. There were so many people – it felt like the whole province had come to see us. They were so happy and thankful. They gave us so much love. What is the most challenging aspect of fire dancing? It’s a little boring but actually, it’s the time management! In this line of work sometimes you don’t have a gig for long stretches – but then they always seem to come along at the same time! There’s a lot of travelling as well. Have you ever had any accidents? There was one show where I was asked to dance above a pool. The act required a lot of fire twirling and I actually fell into the water! I quickly climbed out, started another set of fire poles and just kept dancing. Obviously, I try not to make mistakes, but a lot depends on the conditions in which I have to perform; for example, it is much harder to juggle with fire on the beach, as it’s harder to keep your balance on the sand.

photo DAVID TERRAZAS

Any advice for aspiring fire dancers? Get out there and play – it will light a spark in your heart.

A ★★★★★

FEAST Nyama choma, or roasted meat, is a dish traditionally enjoyed at celebratory occasions such as village festivals, weddings and special ceremonies. Now, though, it’s starting to appear on menus at upscale Nairobi restaurants, with new cooking methods and ingredients helping elevate the dish to ﬁne-dining fare

photo getty images

WORDS RUPI MANGAT

I t ’ s e a r l y e v e n i n g and rows of cars are parked on the side of the road outside a popular eatery, Njuguna’s. Named after the man who started the pavement-diner in the 1970s, it’s an unpretentious place where the focus is solely on the food, nyama choma. Translated from the national Kenyan language Kiswahili, nyama means “meat”, while choma means “roast”. Njuguna’s is well established, but deﬁnitely a no-frills experience – it amounts to just a few rooms extending from a main building, painted in yellow and green. A sink is ﬁtted by a wall, and there’s a TV for the football fans. Its clientele is varied: just about everybody drops in, like at any other nyama choma spot.

Ordering is an equally simple aﬀair. Customers buy the meat at the in-house butchery, then bring it for roasting over the charcoal ﬂames. Two awards hang on the wall, testifying to the acclaim Njuguna’s has garnered for its highquality roast meat. “Mbuzi (goat) is always good for nyama choma,” advises diner Joseph Mutua, who’s sipping a glass of red wine to complement his platter of roasted meat. In contrast to the humble surroundings, he’s smartly dressed, with shoes polished to perfection, and has just come from a workout at the exclusive gym across the road. A half-kilo platter of nyama choma at Njuguna’s is his once-a-week treat.

photos CHRISTENA DOWSETT

from shack to chic Nyama choma has been elevated to ﬁne-dining status by chef Nicholas Matu of Soko at the dusitD2 Nairobi

Once your meat is selected, the waiter delivers it to a pit ﬁlled with charcoal. The meat is roasted and 30 minutes later, it’s brought out on a wooden platter accompanied by ugali and kachumbari.

Ugali is maize ﬂour boiled in water – it’s the equivalent of bread for most Kenyans – while kachumbari is a salad of onions and tomatoes diced with coriander. The waiter proceeds to chop the meat into small chunks with a huge knife, and then everyone digs in with their hands. The origins of nyama choma Seen by most Kenyans as the unoﬃcial national dish, nyama choma has its roots in the country’s traditional pastoral society. In bygone days, most families lived on farms and would keep a few goats for milk and, occasionally, for their meat. “Once in a while my father would slaughter a goat for us,” remembers Grace Njeri Mwaura, a beautician who now works in Nairobi but fondly recalls looking after her family’s herd of 18 goats. “We’d only slaughter an animal for a special occasion, like a wedding or an important guest,” she says. “And, of course, during Christmas.” In the village the tradition for preparing nyama choma was simple – much like Western barbecues, it was considered the man’s responsibility to slaughter and cook the goats. The key is to roast the carcass over a low heat, so that it’s thoroughly cooked both inside and out – “rare” or “mediumrare” are not adjectives used in this process. “Nothing should be thrown away,” continues Grace, whose favourite parts are the soft, sweet ribs. “The meat is roasted and the bones boiled for soup. The skin is sold.” An economic powerhouse in East Africa, Kenya has seen rapid urbanisation over the last halfcentury, with millions leaving their farms behind in favour of city living. Despite relocating, many haven’t lost their taste for nyama choma, leading to a proliferation of simple dens where friends could gather to enjoy this traditional dish.

Moving up in the world The enduring appeal of nyama choma means it is no longer restricted to roadside joints but is also making it on to the menus of more upscale restaurants in the city, such as SOKO at dusitD2 Nairobi. Soko (the Kiswahili word for “market”) is looking to elevate this humble dish to the level of fine dining. On the breezy patio, corporate types and business travellers, as well as a smattering of visiting dignitaries, have dropped by for lunch. The nyama choma platter – consisting of cuts of lamb, chicken, beef and, of course, goat – arrives in style. It’s presented on a granite slate covered with a glass top to keep in the herbal aroma. “It was our guests asking for a traditional Kenyan recipe that led to our serving nyama choma,” says executive chef Anton Gasnier of the restaurant’s decision to include the dish on the menu. It was the job of Nicholas Matu, who was then the chef de cuisine, to turn this ordinary meat into an extraordinary dish. As well as incorporating a wider range of meats to the platter, he added a few subtle additional elements to the cooking process. “We marinate the meat with beer for two to three hours,” chef Matu reveals. “The yeast in the beer gives the meat a much more subtle flavor and tenderises it. Goat and lamb are strongly flavoured, with equally strong smells – the beer cuts that down, too.” As well as being marinated, the meat is also further enhanced by herbs such as fennel, rosemary and coriander to give it an extra edge. Matu admits, though, that he hasn’t played around too much with the accompanying ugali and kachumbari. In another departure from the norm, each platter comes with suitably shiny cutlery. But if you really can’t resist getting your hands dirty, there’s nothing to stop you grabbing a piece of the sweet, succulent rib.

Opened last year, dusitD2 Nairobi features a vibrant design that is both colourful and contemporary. Located along the leafy and secure Riverside Drive, it's close to the thriving city centre. www.dusit.com

"The yeast in the beer gives the meat a much more subtle flavour"

top spots in Nairobi to sample nyama choma SOKO @ dusitD2 Nairobi 14 Riverside, Riverside Woods (off Riverside Dr), Groganville, www.dusit.com Njuguna’s Opposite Oil Libya & ABC Pl, Waiyaki Way, +254 722 738 364 Max Land Waiyaki Way (off Mahiga Mairu Ave) Tamasha Argwings Kodhek Rd, Hurlingham, facebook.com/tamasha.hurlingham

photo DAVID TERRAZAS

For more than four years, Chinnathat Ruenthong has worked as a

professional ice carver at the Dusit Thani Bangkok, transforming formless blocks of frozen water into dramatic, translucent sculptures. After winning gold in the Ice Carving Competition at Thailand’s International Culinary Cup, he’s now aiming for the global stage

ICE GUY How did you first get into ice carving? I was into art from a very young age, then one time I saw someone carving ice on TV. I didn’t know what it was, but I was drawn to it nonetheless. Later I studied ceramic arts at university, then I got a job as an artist at Dusit Thani Bangkok – painting, graphic design, those kinds of things – and ice carving became part of that role. What’s the most challenging part of the job? The ice itself: it’s cold, hard, easy to break, heavy and slippery. Giving it the form you want is a lot of work. The other challenge is transforming what I see in my imagination into reality. It’s not like working with wood; you can’t drop everything and walk away. With ice, you must be fast and precise. That’s also why I’m so passionate about it.

Race against time Chinnathat has to work quickly to create his sculpture before the ice melts back into water

How would you describe your style? It’s a mixture of traditional Thai and modern art. I browse the internet, read books, look at art pieces – all the while thinking about how I can translate these inspirations into ice. My work involves a lot of weddings and corporate functions, so I carve everything from company logos and swans to

dragons and castles. I truly love everything about my job, big and small; from the initial design process down to the ﬁnal, detailed touches. What’s your most memorable work? I carved an ice sculpture of Ganesha for a wedding. The work was so large and intricate it took me two days to complete. Usually, I spend around two hours on a carving, but this one had to be assembled from various pieces. The fact I did it all by myself made it all the more satisfying. What are your plans for the future? I just hope to keep doing what I do. My dream is to take part in the world’s two largest ice-carving competitions, in Alaska and China.

The iconic Dusit Thani Bangkok has been the chain’s ﬂagship hotel since it ﬁrst opened in 1970. It remains the epitome of gracious Thai hospitality and style right in the heart of downtown Bangkok. www.dusit.com

DEEPER

Ocean Giants The chance to swim with the huge manta rays is a highlight of diving in Hanifaru Bay

In the ecological wonderland of the Baa Atoll, a new school is helping more people experience the joys of free-diving. Eight caught up with its head instructor to hear more about the beneďŹ ts of this eco-friendly form of ocean exploration

(MAL)DIVES Photo SARAH LEE

WORDS NICK MEASURES

U n d e r w a t e r s a f a r i The Maldives is home to a huge abundance of marine species, from whales sharks to green turtles

What is the particular appeal of free-diving? Simply put, free-diving is when an individual relies on holding their breath during a dive instead of using breathing apparatus. It’s a unique sport, and a great way to deal with the stresses

and tensions of daily life. The special techniques you need to employ teach you to be more relaxed and calm. Another important aspect is that it is the most natural and eco-friendly way to explore the underwater world – fish will let you come so much closer because you’re not blowing bubbles, and your movements are more relaxed and natural, like a fish. Free-diving is a peaceful sport – it teaches us to respect the ocean and its habitats. For the more adventurous it also offers a lot of challenges – it’s a very “mind-over-matter” sport. For me it is simply a pure joy. Can anyone become a free-diver? It is an active sport, so you need to be generally healthy and free of serious medical issues. Students at our school do need to complete a medical form, and in the more extreme cases might need the agreement of a doctor before we train them. You don’t have to be a great swimmer

but you must be able to swim at least 1,000m. A good age to start taking free-diving seriously is 16, but even kids, with their parents, can give it a try. What are some of the benefits of free-diving? Free-diving is a very environmentally friendly way to explore reefs. [There are] no bubbles, no tanks and no chances of suffering from decompression sickness, so you can fly straight after a dive. When practised correctly, free-diving also provides many health benefits for your heart and lungs: it helps asthma, for example, and it makes a very good motivation to quit smoking. On a less physical level, free-dive training can help you become a more relaxed and focused person, someone who can utilise his or her energy most efficiently, even under stressful circumstances. What does the training involve? There are some academic lessons, sessions in the

Photos ONE OCEAN ONE BREATH & Dusit thani Maldives

T h e w a t e r s s u r r o u n d i n g the atolls of the Maldives have long been a paradise for divers thanks to the combination of high visibility, warm waters and the remarkable wealth of sea creatures that call its numerous coral reefs home. And now, thanks to the opening of the first free-diving school in the Maldives, there’s a different way of exploring the treasures of this amazing undersea environment, unencumbered by air tanks and breathing apparatus. Located on the island of Mudhdhoo in the Baa Atoll, we caught up with the school’s chief instructor Andrey Golubev to find out about the unique appeal of the relatively modern sport of free-diving.

into the void Advanced courses at the school can allow divers to go as deep as 38m

"Fish will let you come much closer because your movements are more natural, more relaxed"

One of the few resorts offering access to Hanifaru Bay, and encircled by its own rich house reef, the Dusit Thani Maldives is located on Mudhdhoo Island, part of the Baa Atoll chain around 30 minutes from MalĂŠ. www.dusit.com

pool and then open-water training. On the basic courses the main targets are to achieve correct breathing, finning, posture and equalisation techniques, as well as understanding general free-diving physiology, equipment and safety and rescue techniques. After this foundation is established, we can continue working on more advanced and more specific techniques, depending on how far and how deep the individual student wants to go. What specific courses do you offer? Our free-diving school offers AIDA and Apnea Total courses, both are really good and both provide internationally recognised certifications. Depending on each student we can recommend the right course for the best experience. The courses start from general introductions, which allow the students to dive to a maximum depth of 10m, through to more advanced levels which

"Free-diving is a peaceful sport – it teaches us to respect the ocean and its habitats" can take people down as deep as 38m. After those advanced levels, we are also oﬀering our own internship program (four to six weeks), which includes all aspects of advanced free-diving training and knowledge in various disciplines. What’s so special about diving in the Maldives? The untouched coral reefs, and abundance of ﬁsh and marine animals, have made the Maldives one of the world’s most famous diving destinations. Warm, crystal-clear waters make scuba diving and free-diving very comfortable. Basically, the islands of the Maldives are a paradise.

What are some of the unique species that can be spotted when diving in the Baa Atoll? The highlight has to be the huge reef and oceanic manta rays that you can swim with at the Hanifaru Bay protected area within the atoll. From June to the end of October they come here to feed on the plankton, and on certain days you can see up to 100 or more of these gentle giants. At the same time there’s also quite a good chance of spotting that diver’s dream, the whale shark. But even aside from the manta rays, the Baa Atoll is home to all kinds of ﬁsh – from huge tuna to small coral species, dolphins, green and hawksbill turtles, eagle rays and diﬀerent kinds of sharks.

The Free-Diving Centre is based at the Dusit Thani Maldives Water Sports and Marine Centre on Mudhdhoo Island, Baa Atoll.

Photo Dusit thani Maldives

r e e f e n c o u n t e r Free-diving is a very environmentally friendly way to explore the coral

In partnership with Dusit International

STEAM Around the world geothermal sites have long drawn interest for their healing properties, as places of worship, and of course as tourist attractions. Eight brings you a global guide to some of the planetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most spectacular hot springs

TRAVEL WOR D S PAU L C H A I

photo getty images

Out of this world Swirling steam and milky blue waters give Icelandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Blue Lagoon an alien quality

photos getty images

Natural Appeal Humans in Turkey and monkeys in Japan can’t resist the appeal of a hot spring

T h e r e i s s o m e t h i n g wonderfully primal about sitting in an outdoor hot spring, preferably one where the water temperature is greater than its chilly surrounds. For centuries we have been drawn to this meeting place of ﬁre and water, where seas or rivers make contact with geothermal heat from deep within the Earth’s mantle. The resulting mineral-rich waters have been considered to have healing qualities and many have become major tourist attractions, with towns built around them. We look at some of the most famous places to take a natural hot bath.

Banff Upper Hot Springs, Canada Ideal for: rugged natural beauty This naturally occurring spring just outside of Alberta in Banﬀ National Park was used by Canada’s First Nations people for centuries before being (re-)discovered by Canadian Paciﬁc Railway workers in 1882. In 1932, the Upper Hot Springs bathhouse opened to the public, signalling its ambitions to rival the famous European spas that were popular at the time with its soaring roofs and half-timbered façade. This beautiful building was later modernised, but was restored back to its early 20th-century splendour in 1995 and is now a heritage-listed building. Rest in the hot pool that stretches in front of the preserved façade, with unrivalled views across the Rockies to the peak of Mount Rundle. Hit the big tub after a calfpummelling hike through the neighbouring forest and let the water – heated by the supercharged thermals of the Sulphur Mountain Thrust Fault – soothe your weary muscles.

Pamukkale, Turkey Ideal for: a slice of history The cascading, bright-white natural travertine (limestone) terraces give this area its name: it

at pamukkale, You can wallow while gazing out at the former Byzantine cit y of Hierapolis means “cotton castle” in Turkish. The terraces form a series of pools that are covered in calcium deposits and allow you to wallow while gazing out at the former Byzantine city of Hierapolis. You can visit the ruins of this ancient metropolis, which grew up around the baths, where many Romans came to cure their ills. Walk down the colonnaded streets, visit the once-grand theatre or check out the old Roman tombs. If you want even more history, Pamukkale has an Archaeology Museum, housed in a second-century bathhouse. The sheer beauty of the area’s petriﬁed waterfalls and mineral forests has earned it UNESCO World Heritage status.

Guangzhou Hot Springs, China Ideal for: peace and quiet These thermal waters located in the north-west of Conghua County consist of a dozen springs within a tranquil mountain setting. Famous for its annual crops of Chinese lychee, Guangzhou or the “City of Flowers” is also home to the Dusit Devarana Hot Springs & Spa, the ﬁrst international brand to build a luxury resort in the region. Of course, the 133-room property has a range of aromatic pools within the resort for guests to sample. If you are keen to explore the local natural sights, then three nearby waterfalls – Xiangfenpu, Feihongpu and Baizhanggeitao – are particularly worth a hike. The waters in this area are some of the most mineral-rich in China, making it a very popular destination for those seeking peace and wellness.

Blue Lagoon, Iceland Ideal for: out-of-this-world experiences Ethereal, milky blue waters, brilliant-white silica mud and baths carved from lava caves: this Icelandic attraction is like visiting another

planet. Piping hot seawater is forced up to the surface from 2km below, eventually reaching a comfortable 37°C with eddies of swirling steam, cementing this spring’s place as one of National Geographic’s 25 Wonders of the World. There are contemporary sauna and steam rooms in the resort, as well as a man-made waterfall designed to massage sore shoulders or pummel stiﬀ backs.

Jigokudani Monkey Park, Japan Ideal for: animal encounters This is the area famous for the Japanese macaques who like to show the humans how to indulge in a spa treatment. A brief walk through a picturesque valley takes you to the large man-made pool where you can snap the pampered primates as they bathe, their fur dusted with the morning snow. Springs, or onsen, are also a popular pastime for the human inhabitants of the area, with the nearby Yudanaka Onsen oﬀering a 400-year-old ryokan (inn) and the chance to take a dip in the historic baths. The onsen here date back more than 1,350 years, and are surrounded by temples and authentic buildings sporting traditional Japanese architectural styles. The waters of these onsen are considered to have healing properties, and most establishments will have a choice of indoor and outdoor pools to enjoy.

With a wide array of therapeutic and aromatic pools, the Dusit Devarana Hot Springs & Spa Conghua, Guangzhou offers the ultimate hot-spring experience. www.dusit.com

FIRE 1/ lighting the way

2/ Seeking enlightenment

3/ Fire Walking

4/ burning belief

A group of Hindu priests perform the Ganga Aarti at Assi Ghat on the banks of the River Ganges in Varanasi, North India. A ghat is a series of holy stone steps leading down to the river. This daily puja,

In an unnamed temple in Thailand, a group of Buddhist monks sit illuminated by candles in front of a reclining Buddha statue. It’s estimated that 90% of Thais follow the Theravāda school of Buddhism, and even today many boys and young men will spend periods of time as a monk.

A man braves temperatures exceeding 1,0000C as he walks across burning coals in a ceremony that’s designed to ward oﬀ bad luck and potential disaster. This traditional ritual was taking place in Pan’an County in Zhejiang Province, located on the eastern coast of China.

Crowds gather to release ﬁre lanterns (khoms) into the night sky in Chiang Mai, northern Thailand, as part of the annual Yee Peng or Loy Krathong ceremony. The festival is held in the 12th month of the Thai Lunar calendar (normally in November). It’s believed that a person’s misfortunes ﬂoat away with the lantern.

or prayer ritual, sees the priests set ﬁre to lamps and oﬀer the light as a dedication to Lord Shiva, the River Ganges, the sun and the universe.

Photos getty images

WATER 5/ making the moist of it

6/ bay watch

7/ water trade

8/ frozen assets

Arguably Thailand’s most famous religious festival, Songkran ( 13-15 April ) marks the start of the Thai New Year. Originally the new year was welcomed by the ritual of washing statues of Lord Buddha in the temples, and while this tradition persists, modern-day celebrations revolve around huge water ﬁghts during a three-day countrywide party.

The Andaman Sea, off the west coast of Thailand, is blessed with stunning archipelagos. Nowhere is that more true than in Phang Nga Bay, just north of Phuket, whose distinctive limestone cliffs jut vertically out of the azure waters, creating dramatic seascapes. The many islands offer up hidden caves, secluded beaches, beautiful lagoons and great snorkelling.

Thailand is home to numerous ﬂoating markets, reﬂecting how important the Kingdom’s rivers were as a means of transport and trade. These days the more famous markets, such as Damnoen Saduak and Amphawa – both around an hour from Bangkok – have become popular tourist attractions, but still retain much of their charming original character.

The annual Harbin International Ice and Snow Sculpture Festival is held every January in northeastern China. The event features the world’s biggest ice sculptures, like this giant castle made entirely of frozen water drawn from the nearby Songhua River, along with skiing, swimming and winter ﬁshing competitions.

LIGHT

Photo ANTHONY TAMAYO JR

DARK

Thai ďŹ lmmaker

director of the Rice Trilogy, explains how the use of light is an important tool in his storytelling

photo DAVID TERRAZAS

SHINING

Uruphong Raksasad,

luminary of thai cinema Uruphong believes that achieving optimal lighting in a ﬁlm is essential to establishing its mood and tone

VISION U R U P H O N G R A K S A S A D W A S born in 1977 to a farming family in Chiang Rai. After graduating with a degree in film and photography from Thammasat University in 2000, he worked in post-production on several Thai feature films before releasing his debut full-length, Stories from the North ( 2006), the first instalment in his self-styled Rice Trilogy. Follow-ups Agrarian Utopia ( 2009 ) and The Songs of Rice ( 2014 ) have drawn international acclaim for their depiction of Chiang Rai’s dramatic landscapes, as well as their exploration of how urban capitalism threatens traditional ways of country living. How did you first get into filmmaking? Ever since I was a kid in high school, I was fascinated by cinema and wanted to become a filmmaker. Back then, though, I didn’t think about it as a career. As I grew up and went to college, and then worked for other filmmakers, I realised this career path was actually possible. What do you love most about the profession? To me, filmmaking is about shining a light on my perspective for the rest of the world; telling my unique stories. Moreover, I love the independent filmmaking community. Some of the people I met when I was just starting out are still my colleagues today; we’re like brothers. I love the support we give each other in this creative environment. What is the most difficult part of your career? Making and developing a new film is always challenging, because you are directly responsible for its success or failure.

What’s been your most memorable moment? I think one was when I started making Agrarian Utopia (Sawan Baan Na, 2009). Even though I hadn’t finished the script, we received the Hubert Bals Fund from the International Film Festival Rotterdam. I was grateful how much trust they put in me. What importance does light play in telling your stories? As you develop a new film, you have to challenge yourself to create a new world. Lighting is an important element in filmmaking, since it can convey mood and tone. For me, trying to balance a personal story with the correct lighting is one of the biggest challenges. What are your future plans? I am currently coming up with a proposal for a new film and looking to teach film seminars at various local universities. Any advice for aspiring filmmakers? Always be open-minded and kind to other people. Making a film is not about finding a linear solution to your storytelling – [it’s about] finding a road that fits with your vision and taking it. Always have an opinion, because viewers can’t relate to a film that has no personality.

As a tool, medium or stimulus, light has always been an essential inďŹ&#x201A;uence within the ďŹ elds of art and design. We explore how it both contributes to and inspires the work of three leading creatives working in Thailand

Light dresser

Pongsak Kobrattanasuk

BEAM

Now in its seventh year, homegrown Thai fashion brand Rotsaniyom has come a long way from its original stall at Bangkok’s Chatuchak Market. The brainchild of former furniture designer Pongsak “Of” Kobrattanasuk and his co-designer, wife and muse, Thita “Gift” Kamonnetsawat, the label originally garnered attention for its vintageinspired T-shirt designs before expanding its line to cover dresses and men’s shirts. Last year saw the duo take a further stride into the world of high fashion with the launch of their flagship store at the Siam Center, specifically opened to showcase their new conceptual line Rotsaniyom White Label. Featuring a signature white-on-white design that blends elements of traditional Thai style with modern forms, the line has already received plenty of positive feedback from within the fashion world and was recently featured in the “Next in Line” International Fashion Showcase at London Fashion Week 2015. “It’s more like making a work of art than design,” says Pongsak of the new label. “[We] channel inspiration and stories into our pieces. It’s harder to access than our ready-to-wear, but people often appreciate it more because they know and understand its narrative.” Replete with an abundance of soft, ethereal laces, White Label draws particular inspiration from the colour and quality of natural light. It’s a key element that appears right at the start of Pongsak’s creative process, working as he does in a studio that’s flooded with natural daylight. From his observations of nature, people and social events, Pongsak also uses light to allegorise his personal view on life in the latest spring/ summer collection, entitled “The First Light Shows When the World Runs Slow”. This new collection was the designer’s personal take on the frenetic nature of modern society: a pace of life that can sometimes mean moments are missed, or just taken for granted. “It’s about how we’re living so fast, and only when it slows down can we see the real beauty of the world – the first light,” says the designer. “Without these slower moments, we just can’t see the beauty clearly.” facebook.com/therotsaniyom

UP WORDS THITIPOL PA N YA L I M PA N U N

P u m p e d f u l l o f e m o t i o n Filtered through Miti’s camera lens, even the most everyday objects exude resonance and power

Light snapper

Miti Ruangkritya Winner of this year’s Portfolio Reviewers Choice Award at the UK’s Format Photography Festival, self-styled “image creator” Miti Ruangkritya has long understood the power and symbolic eﬀect of light in his work. After studying photojournalism at London’s University of Westminster, he returned to Thailand and made a name for himself with two atmospheric, documentary-based series of photographs. What is most striking is how both series are imbued with a surreal, almost mystical quality, a direct result of the artist’s use of light. Taken at the height of the ﬂooding that inundated parts of Bangkok back in 2011, Imagining the Flood has a particularly dark, brooding quality, thanks to the artists’ decision to shoot in the early hours of the morning.

"The hard, cool fluorescent light gives the structures a sense of stillness"

ruins of Angkor. As the conurbation undergoes rapid, often unchecked development, the artist looked to document the vanishing rural life still found on Siam Reap’s outskirts. This series, On the Edge (2014), betrays a

“It was the sense of waiting and fear that drew me to the project,” says the 34-year-old. “I deliberately shot at night, when the city was empty of people, to create a surreal atmosphere.” The uncanny, if spooky, tranquility evoked in Imagining the Flood is further heightened by the way the photographs capture the city’s artificial light. “The hard, cool fluorescent light bathing the concrete structures in the images gives them a sense of stillness, imitating the sense of longing and dread the flood created,” says Miti. In his next major project, Miti travelled to Siem Reap in Cambodia, the city closest to the ancient

forlorn, nostalgic quality, thanks to the time of day he chose to shoot. “It was intentionally shot in the early morning and evening, when the glowing, warm natural light was at its softest, filling the scenes with a very romantic and sentimental weight,” recalls Miti. Not only does the choice of light affect the mood of the photographs, but its fleeting nature helps to reinforce the equally ephemeral nature of the rural scenes being captured. “Just like the transience of the light, which lasted less than half an hour, the way of life in these unseen areas of Siem Reap was temporary, soon to be swept away by the looming threat of urbanisation,” he says. mi-ti.com

a n y c o l o u r y o u l i k e Abstract shapes take on new guises through the use of multi-hued lighting in Eiji Sumi’s Sinusoid

Light constructor

Eiji Sumi, 45 Originally from Tokyo, Japan, Eiji Sumi is yet another Bangkok-based artist who has fully embraced the potential of light in many of his multimedia works. The full-time lecturer in Communication Design at Chulalongkorn University has used a mix of environmental lighting and interactive design throughout his artistic career. Previous exhibitions include Sinusoid ( 2013 ), which incorporated coloured lighting projected onto abstract shapes, and Transverse ( 2014 ), which utilised transparent duct tubing to represent the organic nature of light. “Light is a central human desire, a dream,” explains Eiji of his continuing artistic obsession. “It’s almost instinctive. I’ve always loved playing with light, ever since I was a child.”

"it sparkles, resonates… the world around you c h a n g e s e m o t i o n a l ly a n d p o e t i c a l ly " By combining industrial, ready-made, natural and scientific elements, Sumi looks to create objects and pieces of art that have bizarre, unnatural properties, forcing us to reconsider our relationship with the world around us and the essential role that light plays within that world. “Light is a phenomenon. It can move, fly, stretch, ponder and scream,” says the 45-year-old artist, who has previously experimented with the oscillation, repetition and diffusion of light in his exhibitions. “I am always searching to find the right material that can best present each of these different phenomena.”

In his best-known site-specific installation, QUARK ( 2014 ), Eiji went so far as to break down light into its atomic particles. At a darkened H Gallery in Sathorn, Bangkok audiences were presented with a glass container housing a twisting, swirling spectrum of tiny specks of glittering dust – a bewildering yet beautiful sight that mimicked the movement of subatomic light while also forcing viewers to confront the infinite nature of the cosmos and the sheer complexity of the universe. This mad professor of the art world admits he finds working with light strangely addictive: the more he experiments, the harder it is to stop. “There is the moment of thrill, when you turn it on after everything has been connected,” he says of his installations. “It sparkles, resonates, and the whole world around you changes emotionally and poetically.” eijisumi.com

photo DAVID TERRAZAS

tracks across town Pairoth Roikaew’s ﬁrst market was such a big hit he opened a second branch in downtown Bangkok

THE

NIGHT

TRADER

The founder of Bangkok’s perennially hip Talad Rodfai “Railway” Night Market explains why he prefers to work after dark

A f o r m e r v i n t a g e car dealer and collector of antiques for over 20 years, Pairoth “Rod” Roikaew is the man behind Talad Rodfai, one of Thailand’s most vibrant night markets, which draws in a young, cool crowd for its rare retro wares. It’s been almost two years since the market had to vacate its original Chatuchak location and move to a new site on Srinakarin Road, yet Pairoth’s stock has now risen so high that he recently opened a second branch downtown. How did Rodfai Market start? At ﬁrst I wasn’t interested in the idea of creating a market at all. I was just looking to open up a shop to house my own antiques. When we ﬁrst rented out a warehouse near Chatuchak Market, the response wasn’t very positive. But then we started to attract people like us: antique lovers, vintage seekers and, generally, just people who love to dig for unique things. So I thought: Why not start to rent out the space and create a community of like-minded people? Why launch a night market instead of a daytime one? I think night markets are more suited to Thailand, because the weather is so hot and humid all year round; people don’t really want to go to an openair market in the middle of the day.

What else attracts you to working at night? I’m very attracted to nighttime, because you don’t have to be in such a rush. Time seems to slow down once it gets dark. During the day you are restricted to meeting up with friends in airconditioned malls. The concept of Rodfai Market is that you can take your time to discover new things and hang out with your friends. What do you most love about your work? Every day is memorable because all the vendors at the market love each other. We are just one big, happy community. What’s been the most challenging moment in your career? When we had to move to the new location. It was on the other side of town and not as easy to access as the original site. It was deﬁnitely a challenging transitional period. But all the vendors stuck together, and we’re so lucky that our fans followed us to the new location. What’s next for you? We are actually hoping to expand with a daytime thing; maybe a pop-up market or a roadshow that’s not focused on just one location. We’re also hoping to curate more unique items and oﬀer a more exclusive range of quality products.

M e d i e v a l m a r k e t Around since the 14th Century, Khan El-Khalili in Cairo is one of the world's oldest known bazaars

World’s best night markets There’s something particularly appealing about shopping after dark. Here are some of the best places to do it around the globe.

K h a n e l- K h a l i l i , C a i r o Though it’s not solely a night market, it’s still best to visit the bustling alleys of this ancient souk during the cooler evening hours. Around since the 14th century, the market is broken down into different sections selling perfumes, spices or gold, though many stalls now focus more on touristfocused gifts and souvenirs. Have fun haggling with the hardcore shopkeepers, or seek solace by heading to the 24-hour Fishawi’s Coffeehouse for a coffee and shisha – they claim not to have closed for more than 200 years. Off Hussein Sq (across from El Azhar Mosque). Open Mon-Sat, 6pm-midnight

Railway Mark e t, Bangkok

Summer Nigh t Mark e t, Mel bourne

Originally located on land belonging to the State Railway, this relaxed market now sprawls across 25 acres behind a mall on the outskirts of Bangkok. Push past the first wave of stalls, covering everything from designer boutiques to pet stores, to reach the heart of the market – warehouses piled high with amazing retro finds, where you’ll find anything from a life-sized Batman to a French confessional box. Bars, food and live bands make it a popular weekend draw. Srinakarin Soi 51, behind Paradise Park; facebook. com/taradrodfi. Open Thu-Sun, 6pm-midnight

The city’s ﬁrst night market also serves as a platform to celebrate all that makes this Australian city such a desirable place to live and visit. Sitting within historic warehouses that date back to the 1880s, emerging designers, artists, musicians and foodies serve up their wares every Wednesday through the balmy summer nights – there’s also a more relaxed Winter Market that runs from June through to August. Cnr Elizabeth & Victoria Sts; www.qvm.com.au Wed nights from November to February

T empl e S t ree t Mark e t, Hong Kong

The Dusit Thani LakeView Cairo is a lush oasis of greenery, making it the perfect base to relax after a day at the souks and bazaars of the old city. www.dusit.com

Stretching over ﬁve blocks in the heart of Kowloon, there’s almost nothing you can’t ﬁnd at this chaotic market. Prostitutes, fortune tellers and Chinese opera singers all add to the intoxicating atmosphere as crowds browse fresh seafood, knock-off watches and antiques under the dim glow of bare lightbulbs. Temple St, Yau Ma Tei. Open daily 4pm-late

WHAT WOR D S PAU L C H A I

A s t h e w o r l d spins, turning night to day, Guam is the first United States territory to greet the new morning, and its tropical location means that sun, sea and sand are a big part of the island’s appeal. But if you look a little more closely, some of the most interesting features of the island are its darker places, underground markers of the island’s history. Cave paintings by the Chamorro – Guam’s indigenous population – or secret networks of tunnels from the time of the Japanese occupation tell a very different story to the one most tourists get to see. I stumble upon the tunnels quite by accident on a wander around the capital, Hagatna. It’s a small place of just 1,000 people and you can tour it quickly, but if you visit on a Wednesday or Friday, the Chamorro Village throws a fiesta

of food and traditional dance. I have come early in the afternoon to see the famous latte stones in Senator Angel Leon Guerrero Santos Memorial Park. Santos was a champion of the Chamorro, ﬁghting for their rights in the late 20th century. The stones themselves are pale pillars believed to be the foundations of ancient Chamorro homes. But my eye is drawn to a dark door that appears to run straight into the side of a big hill at the centre of the park. A few metres further along I spy another. A faded and twisted sign identiﬁes them as entrances to Japanese war tunnels that were hewn into the island during World War II using forced Chamorro labour. There is even a barely distinguishable map of the network of tunnels, showing how they intersect deep in the earth. I venture as far as my smartphone

Guam is best known to tourists as a place of sunny repose and quirky entertainment, but the islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s troubled history has also bestowed on it an intriguing, rarely explored netherworld. Eight explores the dark corners of this PaciďŹ c island

Photos ANTHONY TAMAYO JR

LIES

BENEATH

torch will allow along the dark passage before thinking better of it and return to the sunny park. The following morning I head to Talofofo Falls, and perhaps the most famous dark corner of the island. The falls are in the south of the island, surrounded by the surreal Talofofo Falls Resort Park, which features a “train” that transports you to Yokoi’s Cave. Shoichi Yokoi was a sergeant in the Japanese force that invaded Guam in 1941. When the Allied assault recaptured the island three years later, Yokoi and two fellow officers retreated to Guam’s thick jungles and dug a cramped hole in which to live. Yokoi eluded capture for 28 years, only being discovered by local farmers in 1972. Sadly, Yokoi’s comrades died of food poisoning. A replica of the claustrophobic home, surrounded by black-and-white photos of Yokoi and the original tunnel, sits close to where the first hole was located on the bank of the Ugum River. I confess I find the idea of spending almost three decades in here very dark indeed.

The sprawl of paintings consists of geometric designs and crude pictures For a more positive caving experience, groups like Tropical Tours Guam (tropicaltoursguam. com) will take you to view some of the ancient Chamorro cave paintings that form an important link with Guam’s origins. South of Talofofo is Inarajan, best known to locals as the birthplace of legendary Chamorro chief Gadao. Gadao lends his name to a nearby limestone cave containing some of the best examples of Chamorro cave paintings that date back between 2,000 and 3,000 years. Two metres high and six metres deep, the sprawl of paintings consists of geometric designs, and crude pictures of humans and animals drawn in white lime. On the east wall, two ﬁgures stand out – it is said that they represent Gadao and a

northern chief called Malaguana. Gadao beat his rival to the top job in ancient Chamorro society after triumphing in several trials of strength. Those up for a hike – or a “boonie stomp”, as the locals call it – can also explore Pagat Cave in the centre of Guam. It is a short, steep trek, as the limestone bluffs plunge towards the ocean before the cliffs turn inwards to create the multichambered cave. The caverns offer impressive ocean views and a crystal-clear cave pool, which is a great spot for a dip after your walk. Check out the Guam Boonie Stompers (facebook.com/ GuamBoonieStompersInc), who organise walks to Pagat and other parts of the island. Guam is a small place, and I make it to Tumon Bay in time for another darkness-related ritual – sunset at The Beach, the island’s only bar where you can sink your toes in the sand. As I look around at the sun worshippers, I can’t help thinking they missed out by not exploring Guam’s shadowy corners.

Photos ANTHONY TAMAYO JR

g u a m b e f o r e t h e s t o r m Pagat Cave highlights this island’s beauty, while Gadao Cave is a reminder of its ancient past

NEW CHARM IN

GUAM

Dusit International’s latest luxury resort on the Micronesian island is redeﬁning the hospitality scene in the region

D e s i g n d e t a i l s : Lobby Lounge area (left) and Soi Restaurant (right)

T h i s J u n e s a w the exciting launch of Guam’s first newly built resort since 1999, the Dusit Thani Guam Resort. A place where Thai hospitality blends with a warm Pacific welcome to give you the very best of both worlds. A resort that merges elements of Thai grandeur and style with distinctly contemporary touches that reference its unique Pacific island setting. It’s a resort of many firsts: sat on the pristine Tumon Bay, this new resort will be the tallest building on Guam, offering guests sweeping views across the tropical interior and out over the Pacific from its 419 deluxe rooms and suites. The resort also happens to be the first on Guam classified in the luxury category, as underlined by its six Villa Suites, each with their own plunge pools, exclusive gym and concierge services.

And for those who want to indulge in the very best in pampering it incorporates the distinctive delights of its very own Devarana Spa, Dusit’s signature spa concept. Set to fully launch later this year as part of the grand opening, residents and resort guests will be able to indulge in the island’s ﬁrst hydrothermal therapy treatment area or choose from the spa’s extensive range of Thaiinspired massage and wellness programs. Surrounded by its own lush tropical gardens, complete with swaying palm trees, the hotel will

To ﬁnd out more or to book your stay, visit www.dusit.com

be hard to leave, boasting as it does no fewer than four distinct dining venues. From the delicious grilled seafood on offer at Tasi Grill and the Italian classics served up at Alfredo’s Tuscan Steakhouse, through to the authentic Thai flavours at SOI and the international dining options at Aqua, there’s something to suit every palate. And to truly enhance the sensory delights of your meal, each of the restaurants is specifically designed to offer up beautiful, panoramic views of the bay. While Guam might not be an obvious holiday choice, its location a few hours’ from Asia’s main cities – combined with its great attractions, crystal-clear waters and captivating landscapes – make it a tropical paradise. So why not be one of the first to discover all that Guam, and the new Dusit Thani Guam Resort, have to offer?

One of Thailand’s leading architects, Lek Bunnag, champions traditional forms while embracing the present. He tells us about the inﬂuences and inspirations behind the creations that earned him the status of National Artist

BUILDING WITH LIGHT

AND

SHADOW WOR D S PAT TA M A P OR N K I T T I PA NAC HOL

F r o m t h e e x t e r i o r , Bunnag Architects International Consultants’ office resembles a windowless, if colourful fortress. Yet on stepping through the two-panel wooden doors, painted with Lanna-style figures, one finds a soaring space bathed in a soft natural light that blends modern elements with the more traditional scent of the jasmine garlands adorning the Buddha and Ganesha images. It’s a space imbued with futuristic coolness, yet invoking the atmosphere of a sacred hall: a space in perfect balance with itself, and a perfect representation of the ambitions and vision of the consultancy’s founder, Mathar “Lek” Bunnag. The 65-year-old has been dubbed “the father of modern Thai architecture”, and his contribution

to his industry and country saw him named a National Artist in Architecture in 2011. He is particularly well known for the magical resort designs that have emerged from his practice since 1990, designs that can conjure up feelings of serenity while also taking one’s breath away through their beauty and invention. Landmark projects such as the Four Seasons Resort Chiang Mai, the Ritz-Carlton Reserve at Phulay Bay Krabi, The Oberoi in Mauritius, Cape Weligama in Sri Lanka and the award-winning Dusit Devarana in New Delhi. “I like creating beautiful spaces that make people feel joyful and serene,” says Lek of his buildings. “Design is about surpassing functionality. Function does not guarantee

Cosmic Forces Top row: Dusit Devarana New Delhi. Bottom left: The Barai, Hua Hin. Bottom right: Thai Pavilion, 2014 Venice Biennale

beauty. Architectural forms that please our eye and move us are far more inspiring than functional forms of lesser beauty.” Thirsty for knowledge, Lek further enriched his Bachelor in Architecture from Silpakorn University by pursuing courses in Architectural Ideology from Canada’s University of Manitoba and Urban Conservation at Harvard University, while working in Thailand, India, Mauritius and the Seychelles. This understanding of diﬀerent cultures gives his work a very strong sense of place, while his appreciation of nature ensures a diversity of design. Lek is also renowned for his extensive knowledge of, and passion for, Thai history and antiquities. “The beginning of architecture comes from understanding how the intangible informs the tangible,” he says, “such as how Buddhism, which emphasises detachment and enlightenment, gives form to temples.” For Lek this aﬃnity for the ethereal informs the designs and lifestyles of Thai people at every level and in every facet of life, from dance movements to the graceful golden chofa on temple roofs. Yet despite being inspired by this creative and cultural legacy, he also argues that it should not be slavishly imitated. “The past is for us to learn, respect, admire, feel a sense of gratitude, pride and belonging, and stimulate us,” Lek explains. “But it’s not for us to copy.” This is something that Lek feels deeply, having undergone a creative epiphany around seven years ago. “An architect’s style is the embodiment of himself. Everyone is born free and innately creative,” says Lek of his newfound vision, which he feels has added depth and a sense of the unknown to his work. “When we leave all memory and knowledge behind, the door is open for work of great individuality.”

And while he agrees that architecture is clearly a marriage of art and science, he firmly believes that the world’s greatest architects are actually great artists who can push beyond reason. “Freedom, love and creativity are the beginning of all art. My work combines my intellect and feelings. But for me, feelings are the ‘mother’ of reasoning.” To do this, Lek draws upon his cache of “authentic inspiration”. That can be anything from witnessing at first hand a breathtaking sunset in the Malaysian resort of Langkawi to Afghanistan’s geometric rusted-steel colored Hindu Kush mountain range or the tranquil ruins of the city of Palmyra in Syria. As he points out, those who have experienced such “authentic inspiration” remain profoundly affected. “The cosmic forces which are natural phenomena – light, shadow, the sun, the moon, the stars, the horizon and reflections – are not only my inspiration, they are integral to my

"The past is for us t o l e a r n , r e s p e c t, admire, but it's not for us to copy" designs,” he continues. These “cosmic forces” were speciﬁcally used in the sanctum sanctorum of the sun-dappled treatment rooms in The Barai in Hua Hin, and the ever-changing light and shadow of the lobby of the unmistakably Indian Dusit Devarana New Delhi, to instil existential experiences of serenity and joy. At the centre of the latter resort's lobby Lek installed an 8m-diameter woven-copper disc sculpture by artist John Bowman which constantly rotates leading guests to the inviting lobby below. Deep, dark shadows are cast by the strong sunlight as it shifts throughout the day to create a mesmerising, mysterious dance of dark and light over the curved surfaces. He hopes this contemporary spiritual interpretation of Indian cultural heritage invites guests to be aware of the present. “Cosmic beauty, like a rainbow, is always moving, unrehearsed and impermanent,” says Lek. “It expresses the here and now of life from moment to moment.”

Lek has also demonstrated that darkness can also be used to powerful eﬀect, as evidenced from his installation at the 2014 Venice Architecture Biennale. Created to represent the state of Thai spirituality, something close to the architect’s heart, the subtly lit, monochromatic installation featured awe-inspiring 8m-high elements within an almost pitch-dark space. With the silhouettes of lines, surfaces and forms lined by faint light, the aim was to re-create the enigma cast by Wat Mahathat in Sukhothai Historical Park on a moonlit night while asking an important question about “Thainess”. “Whether our intangible cultural heritage can survive the waning of Buddhism depends on our collective responsibility to safeguard her wellbeing,” expounds Lek. “Our artists and architects can uphold Thainess by developing and reﬁning work inspired by spirituality.” In the same way that practitioners must strike the right combination of light and darkness, they also need to balance the modern while retaining strong links with a spiritual identity that Lek traces back to the Dvaravati Period. It is an issue throughout the world, but one that Lek feels is particularly important to Thailand – and one that he champions through his designs. “Yielding to globalisation like other countries would mean the extinction in perpetuity of our unique spirituality – the most profound quality of being Thai,” Lek concludes.

Experience the work of the architect in person with a stay at the stunning Dusit Devarana New Delhi, set amid eight acres of stunning green landscaping. www.dusit.com

LIGHT 1/ suspending spree

2/ New Dawn

3/ Light Fantastic

4/ go the extra nile

Strings of red paper lanterns with gold tassels hang from the roof of a building to celebrate the annual Chinese Lantern Festival. The red and gold colours symbolise wealth, fame and prosperity, while the round shape signiﬁes reunion. The Lantern Festival marks the end of the Chinese New Year celebrations, a time when families traditionally get together to give thanks.

Daylight breaks over Wat Rong Khun, better known as the White Temple in Chiang Rai. The surreal temple, which is still under construction, is the creation of leading Thai artist Chalermchai Kositpipat and oﬀers his vision of heaven and hell, including walls painted with famous characters from popular culture such as Harry Potter, Spider-Man and Hello Kitty.

Celebrated every autumn, Diwali or the Hindu Festival of Lights traditionally signifies the victory of the forces of light over darkness and good over evil. Running over five days, the third day sees the main celebration, where devotees dress in their finest clothes, light

Every night on the outskirts of the bustling city of Cairo, tourists ﬂock to catch this famous son et lumière which looks to bring the history of Ancient Egypt to life. It also attempts to shed some light onto the many mysteries that surround the construction and religious signiﬁcance of the Pyramids of Giza and the Sphinx.

diyas (candles) to welcome the goddess Lakshmi, and let oﬀ ﬁreworks and sparklers.

Photos getty images

DARK 5/ twilight Flight

6/ night riders

7/ nocturnal Adventures

8/ burning faith

The dying of the light is a signal for some of nature’s best hunters to come out to play. Bats are commonly spotted in the night skies of Thailand, but for a truly spectacular sighting, head to the Khao Lak Chang Bat Cave on the edge of Khao Yai National Park, and be treated to the spectacular sight of millions of bats streaming out at dusk to hunt for insects.

Relaunched in 2008, the new-look Singapore Grand Prix became the ﬁrst night-time event in Formula 1 history. Taking place on the challenging and highly demanding Marina Bay Street Circuit, it is also Asia’s ﬁrst street race, taking the competitors past a host of the citystate’s most prominent landmarks and through the heart of the central business district.

The Thai capital might have an infamous nightlife scene, but recent years have seen a growing number of eclectic, cutting-edge after-dark options appearing. So whether you want to listen to avant-garde jazz on a rooftop, drink Japanese whisky in an authentic izakaya or catch a visiting DJ spinning Afrobeat, you’re sure to ﬁnd a spot catering to your whims.

In Pathum Thani Province north of Bangkok, thousands of devotees light candles at Wat Phra Dhammakaya. The ceremony, known as wian thian, is part of the annual celebrations to mark Makha Bucha Day, one of the three holiest days in the Thai Buddhist calendar.

EARTH

Photos SEBAsTIAN OPITZ & getty images

SKY

EARTHLY

breaking the mould According to Maii Yothawong, clay’s widely varying nature means that no two pieces of pottery can ever be the same

PLEASURES Thanita “Maii” Yothawong, co-founder of Charm-Learn ceramics studio, explains the

photo DAVID TERRAZAS

unique appeal of working with clay

T h e e n d r e s u lt A selection of diﬀerent ceramic pieces created by students at the Charm-Learn Studios

Old Town, Charm-Learn is an exhibition space and studio oﬀering a variety of arts and craft workshops. Its main focus is ceramics, with all the materials sourced locally. It’s the project of three ceramic arts graduates – Thanita “Maii” Yothawong, Chanchai “Bub” Boriboon and Natthapol “Mick” Wannaporn – who gave up media jobs to follow their dream of opening a pottery studio. How did Charm-Learn come into being? We all graduated from Silpakorn University with a major in ceramics. However, we all found other jobs. Eventually we asked ourselves: Why aren’t we doing what we do best? There wasn’t anyone opening up studios, so ceramics students didn’t have a place to start their careers. We thought it’s up to people like us to teach the craft to others. What do you like about working with clay? Clay is a really interesting material. Diﬀerent

soils from different provinces have their own properties – almost like personalities in people. In fact, the process of making ceramics requires a combination of all the elements: you need to add water to the earth to create your forms, wind to dry the pottery and fire to retain its final shape. But it all begins with the lump of clay harvested from the earth, which ensures no two pieces of pottery will ever be the same. What kind of reaction does Thai pottery receive overseas? We have all kinds of people from all over the world coming in to take our workshops: Japanese, German, French, even people from neighbouring countries like Malaysia. Our clay is especially unique for them, because it has more texture. Foreigners are always surprised by the properties of our local clay, which is originally black in colour, but then turns white after it’s been fired and cooled.

What is the most challenging aspect of what you do? [It’s] deﬁnitely trying to change the stereotype of the artist, especially with regard to pottery and ceramic arts. People still think we’re making traditional pots and pans, but in reality it is about so much more than that. We want to make ceramic art and crafts more approachable. Also, dealing with the start-up costs of creating a studio was tough, because we started out by sourcing only the very best materials and equipment we could ﬁnd. What’s next for Charm-Learn? We’re hoping to add more variety to our classes, and we want to hold a lot more exhibitions and collaborations with other studios, as well as continuing to support a new generation of ceramics students. facebook.com/charmlearnstudio95

photo CHARM-LEARN STUDIO

O c c u p y i n g a r e n o v a t e d shophouse in Bangkok’s

For over 40 years, we have offered guests of the Dusit Thani Bangkok and local residents alike rare and meticulously set gemstones, designed to last from generation to generation.

PLOT B a c k i n 1 9 6 9 His Majesty, King Bhumibol Adulyadej, along with members of his family, decided to embark on a Royal visit to the isolated hill-tribe communities living on the border with Myanmar in the remote and mountainous northern region of Thailand. At the time the area was struggling with major issues of deforestation and poverty â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and, as part of the Golden Triangle, was infamous as a hotbed of opium production. During a visit to the hill-tribe village Doi Pui, nestled in the Doi Suthep National Park, HM the King learnt about a particular type of pear tree that was cultivated in the area, whose fruit actually earned local farmers a better price at market than the opium poppies so many were slashing down the forests to grow.

From a small seed a mighty trunk may grow, and from this initial discovery the idea for the Royal Projects was formed. At its heart, its aim was simple â&#x20AC;&#x201C; to eliminate opium production and instead promote high-value crops that would economically beneďŹ t local hill-tribe communities while better protecting the local environment. Forty years later the organic produce cultivated by the Royal Projects supplies many of the leading restaurants and hotels in Thailand. There are now four agricultural research stations and 34 development centres spread across northern Thailand, involving almost 300 villages and over 70,000 members of the local population. Opium production has fallen dramatically in the region, while locals now have a legal,

research plant The terraced slopes of the Ang Khang Royal Agricultural Station, which was ﬁrst set up in 1969

DEVELOPMENT

One of the Thai Royal Family’s most fruitful ventures has been the Royal Projects, an agricultural initiative in the North, which has reaped considerable environmental and economic success

Photo Suphakorn Lohasammakul

WORDS NICK MEASURES

a Rich crop The Agricultural Station grows over 60 diﬀerent varieties of temperate fruit and vegetables

The Royal projects' development centres employ more than 70,000 people in northern thailand sustainable means of making a living. The success of the project is further underlined when you consider there are now more than 300 products sold under the Royal Projects Doi Kham (doikham.co.th) brand, ranging from luxury sturgeon caviar to organic strawberries. Ang Khang Royal Agricultural Station Founded in the same year as the King’s visit to Doi Pui village, Ang Khang Royal Agricultural Station was set up to identify exactly what types of temperate fruits, flowers and vegetables would survive and thrive in the cooler climates and high altitudes of northern Thailand. As well as discovering which plants could flourish on these hillsides, the station also served as a centre to educate local farmers in the methods and techniques needed to grow these new, more environmentally friendly cash crops. This remains the ambition of Ang Khang, which is located around three hours north of Chiang Mai, and whose steep valleys straddle the Thai-Burmese border. Perched at an average height of 1,400m above sea level, the station covers an area of 1,989 rai ( 318.24 hectares), and now cultivates over 60 varieties of cool-weather vegetables, more than 50 species of flowers, and a host of different fruits from raspberries and kiwis to peaches, apples and plums. As well as offering up some verdant vistas, a trip here also allows visitors the opportunity to wander among orchards of blooming Japanese apricot trees, stroll through serpentine rows of strawberry bushes or drink in the heady scents of the colourful rose gardens. The months from December to May are particularly recommended, as the hillsides turn into a riot of floral colours and delicate blossoms. And should you really

want to get close to nature, you can view it all from the back of your own hired mule. Alternatively, if you simply want to sample the results of all this work, head to the Ang Khang Clubhouse (open daily 7.30am–10pm), which serves dishes using the station’s produce alongside local hill-tribe specialities such as kha moo with man tou (braised pork with fried Chinese bun). There’s plenty else to keep people entertained, aside from the agricultural elements – whether that’s indulging in a spot of birdwatching, trekking along one of the station’s nature trails or watching the sun breaking through the earlymorning mists from one of the many viewpoints, such as Ang Khang Military Base. Of course, supporting local communities is at the heart of what the Royal Projects are about. Ang Khang station contains nine villages that are home to four ethnic groups: the Tai Yai (Shan), Black Lahu, Palong and Chinese Yunnanese. Visitors are welcome, with Nor Lae Khob, Dong and the Ban Luang villages being most popular. As well as oﬀering a glimpse into the distinctive culture and practices of these people, there are also opportunities to buy traditional handicrafts – just another example of how the Royal Projects have helped give the local communities the means to support themselves.

Located in the heart of the charming city, the dusitD2 Chiang Mai is the perfect launchpad for exploring northern Thailand’s beautiful natural scenery. www.dusit.com

GOURMET TOURS One of the most exciting ways of visiting the Royal Project Station at Ang Khang is through the Thai Gourmet Tours (thairoyalprojecttour.com), which take place three times a year and are so popular they can sell out six months in advance. The three-day culinary adventures combine the beautiful natural setting and rich local culture, with top-class meals created by some of Bangkok’s leading chefs utilising the best local produce. The tour this February was no exception, and featured guest chefs Morten Bojstrup Nielsen and Philippe Keller from the Dusit Thani Bangkok, who served up a range of meals from a gourmet breakfast overlooking the tea plantation to a BBQ jazz dinner in the Bonsai Garden.

Contact details Ang Khang Royal Agricultural Station, 1 M.5, Maengon Subdistrict, Fang District, Chiang Mai Province; www.angkhangstation.com

Photos Suphakorn Lohasammakul & Monruedee Jansuttipan

photo DAVID TERRAZAS

SURFING

THE

SKY

A Kiwi kiteboarding instructor based in Pattaya explains the addictive appeal of using the combined forces of the wind and waves to take to the air

W h i l e l i v i n g i n Australia back in 2005, New Zealander Mike Allen came across the extreme sport of kiteboarding as he was idly channelhopping. Instantly hooked, he headed to Koh Samui to take lessons. Then, after completing his instructor qualifications, he founded the Pattaya branch of Kiteboarding Asia, a growing network of schools with 12 centres spread across Asia. What is kiteboarding? Kiteboarding involves using a special type of kite to pull you through the water – and occasionally up into the air – on a small surfboard. There’s a lot going on all at once: flying a kite, orienting a board and maintaining correct body position. You need a lot of situational awareness. The main thing is being able to multi-task. How would you describe the feeling of “riding the sky”? Jumping [getting airborne over the waves] is the greatest sensation. At first it can be very unnerving, and I used to get pretty freaked out. borne on the breeZE Mike Allen warns that kiteboarding is a hugely addictive sport to take up

Who would you recommend it to? Kiteboarding appeals to people who like a challenge. Standing on the board for the ﬁrst time

is a memory I will have for life. Anyone who’s an okay swimmer, and not afraid of heights, should try it. But anyone starting out should be prepared to get addicted. Once I took up kiting I had to work part-time to give me more time on the water. What do you love most about your career? My hours are quite ﬂexible depending on the wind or weather. No two days are ever the same. What is Pattaya like for kiteboarding? Pattaya was the last place I thought I’d end up, but when the Blue Lagoon kite school came up for rent [in 2007 ], I thought: Why not, I’ll give it a try. Now, I wouldn’t live anywhere else in Thailand. The town has [all the] entertainment you’d hope for. It’s also a great place to begin kiteboarding because of the warm, shallow water, open space, and lack of jellyﬁsh, sea urchins or sharks.

The Dusit Thani Pattaya has an enviable location on the northern end of the majestically curving Pattaya Bay, giving it direct access to two beachfronts. www.dusit.com

When German photographer Sebastian Opitz moved to Dubai seven years ago he was immediately drawn to the construction projects transforming the skyline. His dreamlike freeze-frames capture the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s quest to reinvent itself as a futuristic metropolis â&#x20AC;&#x201C; as well as the ethereal beauty of its glittering new monoliths

l i g h t a n d s h a d e The bright lights of the city at night contrast starkly with the mist-shrouded skyscrapers in the early morning

What makes Dubai such a unique place to photograph? When I moved here in 2008, I was instantly fascinated by the vibrant, 24/7 atmosphere on the construction sites of all the mega-projects, especially at night. I felt I had to capture that, and I went and bought my first DSLR camera. Why the fascination with cityscapes? It’s mainly the underlying structural beauty of a city like Dubai that catches my eye. I’m generally not a fan of big cities, but to me Dubai has a very special, futuristic vibe. It really feels like you’re living inside a sci-fi movie, with all these people of different cultures from all over the world, all looking different, yet living together peacefully in a modern metropolis. You get the feeling that an alien walking around the corner with a Prada shopping bag wouldn’t look out of place! How do these new skyscrapers define the city? The skyscrapers of Dubai have put the city on the global map and inserted them into people’s consciousness. Unique buildings such as the Burj al Arab or the world’s tallest tower, Burj Khalifa, act as distinct brand marketing for the city. But they are also landmarks that can be seen from pretty much anywhere. How do they interact with the sky and their surroundings? One thing I always notice is the big difference in the weather and temperature up on the rooftops of these skyscrapers. It’s almost like a different world. I also find it really awe-inspiring, almost magical, the way that clouds sometimes wrap around these tall towers at mid-height as if they are embracing the buildings, refusing to let them go. Do you ever suffer from vertigo? No, I don’t – but sometimes it might be better if I did, I’m told. Seriously, to take pictures from Dubai’s rooftops you need to have some guts when it comes to heights. Many rooftops have weird ornaments or high walls obstructing the view – and then you need to get a little creative, need to be a little brave.

Enjoy jaw-dropping views of Dubai’s futuristic skyline from the Dusit Thani Dubai, which is strategically located just a short walk from the world’s tallest building, the Burj Khalifa. www.dusit.com

Photos FRANZ NAVARETTE

plotting a revolution Groups like Edible Gardens are hoping to change urbanitesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; eating habits

EXPERIENCING

HIGH WOR D S N I C H O L A S WA LT O N

GROWTH Singapore’s not a city known for its agricultural industry, and as space becomes ever tighter, producers must resort to unusual gardening methods. Eight meets the “farmpreneurs” turning rooftops into cropland

S i n g a p o r e i s a global foodie haven with one small but significant weakness. It can do fusion and fine dining, street food and sushi. What it struggles to offer is that cornerstone of good, honest cooking: local produce. It’s not surprising, given that five and a half million people have been shoehorned on to an equatorial island with barely enough room to swing an orang-utan. But if you peer hard enough between the tower blocks and concrete condos, a new breed of social entrepreneur is determined to change this. Singapore is becoming an unlikely leader in the innovative world of urban farming. One such project is found on an unassuming rooftop, perched above the neon lights and consumer clamour of Orchard Road’s shopping malls. Up a lift to the fifth floor, through an anonymous door and a half-forgotten set of back stairs, Comcrop’s project is typically lowkey. Its farm is a flat rooftop that jostles for sky space between a ladder of long plastic pipes, each dotted with foam-filled holes out of which sprout seedlings. Networks of tubes pump water through the roots of the mint and basil plants, then back again into blue plastic tubs, where tilapia swim and provide the nutrients that fuel the cycle. Yan Kuang, a fresh-faced and enthusiastic graduate, is one of Comcrop’s three full-time staff. In Singapore, he says, it’s vital to make the most of the city’s unused spaces, grow crops high up among its air-conditioning units and remind its people that food is not something they should take for granted. Fifty years ago, when Singapore gained its independence, the island was home to a healthy scattering of small farms and kampongs (villages),

the vision is to s h o w t here is room f or l oc a l produce, e ven in a highly p o p u l a t e d cit y-state where pigs rooted and chickens pecked between the vegetable patches and fish ponds. Now that Singapore is crammed with people, agriculture has been crowded out. Crabs are flown in from India, fish shipped from the Arctic, beef from the Argentinian pampas. Most of the basics come down from Malaysia or up from Indonesia. Food’s security is as big an issue in Singapore as its environmental impact, and urban farms help to raise awareness of both. The real challenge, says Yan, is eventually to scale up from projects like the Comcrop rooftop. As well as the basil, mint and tomatoes, they have an experimental plot where they are trying to grow everything from kaffir limes and eggplant to okra and lemongrass. They are hoping to build demand, showing chefs around and trying to impress them with the freshness of their produce. If they can demonstrate that these market gardens in the sky have a future, the rooftops of Singapore’s forest of skyscrapers could become green, crunchy and delicious. Edible Gardens’ Bjorn Low shares that vision. His consultancy has built miniature farms in any location that has a patch of concrete and enough daylight to bring life, from school roofs and restaurant courtyards to hotel terraces and private balconies. I meet Bjorn at a new project, a “popup” farm in one of the traditional shophouses lining Little India’s bustling, aromatic streets. The building was formerly a nightclub that nurtured up-and-coming DJs. Now the Edible Gardens team is using it to experiment with growing food far from the equatorial sunshine that sustains the plants on their rooftop farms. It feels closer to a laboratory, with shelving units bathed in the eerie glow of neon striplights and the ever-present whirring of fans. “Eating salads is an expensive hobby in Singapore,” says Bjorn.

The project is aimed at showing how the most basic of equipment and a spare corner in a highrise flat can actually create a low-cost alternative source of greens to the high-priced imports for those whose families left their kampongs a couple of generations ago. There are red-stemmed beetroot shoots, fiery mustards and UFO-shaped nasturtium leaves that could adorn the finest of fine-dining plates. In a back room, in a polythene tent that looks like it was stolen from a murder scene, one of Bjorn’s colleagues, Ng Sze Kiat, is attempting to cultivate mushrooms on common waste such as cardboard and coffee grounds. What Edible Gardens and Comcrop share with the rest of Singapore’s urban farming movement is a strong belief that the global gastronome’s city of Singapore needs to rediscover its relationship with growing food as well as eating it. Just because the island is heaving with concrete, it does not mean there is no place for soil and for sunlight, for green shoots and crispy vegetables. Beyond environmental concerns and food security, their vision is for tiny Singapore to show there is room for local produce, even in a highly populated 21st-century city-state. Comorop by T he Living! P roject: fa c eb o ok .c om /c om C r op Edible Gardens: ediblegardencity.com

Scheduled to open in 2017, the Dusit Thani Laguna Singapore has 208 rooms and villas, and will be located within the Laguna National Golf and Country Club. www.dusit.com

EARTH 1/ Reaping the benefits

2/ there's the rub

3/ parks and recreation

4 / t o t a l ly P e t r i f i e d

A farmer harvests his rice paddy. Thailand is one of the world’s leading rice producers, with vast swathes of the central and northeastern regions of the country given over to the cultivation of this important crop. Not suprisingly, rice plays an important role in many religious and cultural rites in the kingdom.

One attraction that any visitor to Abu Dhabi shouldn’t miss is the mystical charm of the Rub’Al Khali or Empty Quarter, the world’s largest sand desert. Head into this bleak but beautiful environment of undulating sand dunes, and experience a range of activities from desert sailing to dune bashing and camel rides.

Kenya is a country blessed with an abundance of natural wonders, and nowhere is that more evident than on a safari around one of its many national parks. The opportunity to get up close to such majestic beasts as lions, leopards and, of course, the mighty African elephant in their natural habitat is a magical and awe-inspiring experience.

China’s Stone Forest, or Shilin Karst, is actually a set of dramatic limestone formations whose name derives from the fact that many of them resemble petriﬁed trees. Located 90km from the provincial capital Kunming, two parts of the site – the Naigu Stone Forest and Suogeyi Village – have been UNESCO World Heritage Sites since 2007.

Photos getty images

SKY 5/ rising inflation

6/ Feeding Frenzy

7/ Starry Night

8/ Bird's-eye view

A scene of utter serenity as daybreak illuminates the architectural wonders of Egypt’s Valley of the Kings, watched over by visitors silently gliding above them in a hot-air balloon. It’s a crowning pleasure of any visit to this UNESCO World Heritage Site, one of the world’s most famous archaeological destinations.

A ﬂock of hundreds of seagulls ﬁlls Delhi’s morning sky as a man feeds the birds from his small boat on the Yamuna River. The river is the largest tributary of the Ganges, and originates in the uppermost region of the Lower Himalayas. A vital artery for millions, Delhiites depend on the Yamuna for 70% of their water, and Hindus worship the river as a deity.

The clear night sky is ﬁlled with twinkling stars above Doi Inthanon, the highest mountain in Thailand at 2,565m above sea level. Two hours from Chiang Mai, it’s a popular tourist destination for day-trippers from the country’s second city, with two chedis – built in honour of the Thai King and Queen’s 60th birthdays – a particular highlight.

A hang-glider soars eﬀortlessly over the dramatic landscapes of Southern California. The areas around Los Angeles and Pasadena are home to a number of impressively wild national parks and forests, which make this region a paradise for nature lovers – especially given the stunning backdrop of the Paciﬁc Sea coastline.

SWEET

Photos getty images & GREGOIRE GLACHANT

SPICY

J A K T H O N G “ M U M U ” U B O L S O O T V A N I C H fell in love with artful French pastries and desserts when she was living and studying in Paris, but her sweet tooth had been established way before then thanks to her family’s Thai dessert shop, Wanlamun, in Chiang Mai. In 2012, the largely self-taught pastry chef decided to combine her passion for fashion and sweets at the stylish Let Them Eat Cake pâtisserie, which specialises in seasonal French-Thai treats. She has since opened a second branch at Bangkok’s Siam Center in 2013. How did you become a pastry chef? As a child growing up in Chiang Mai, my family had a Thai-style dessert shop, which was run by my mother and my grandmother. You could say “sweets” have always been a part of my life. I’ve always been drawn to the “it” factor of desserts. I also wanted to help my family with their business, so I studied up and started to create Thai-French fusion desserts. How did you become interested in Parisian-style pâtisserie? When I was studying fashion in Paris there were all these fancy Michelin-starred restaurants [where] I couldn’t aﬀord to eat, but good desserts were always available and aﬀordable. I had a lot

of female friends who just loved to go to bistros and try out the diﬀerent pâtisseries. Before I knew it, sweets had become a part of my everyday routine. What do you love most about your job? The taste and complexity of Parisian-style pâtisseries: they’re always evolving, unlike Thai desserts. I love discovering new recipes and adapting them to make them my own. Making these sweets also brings back memories of my years in Paris, so it helps when I am missing that way of life. Another rewarding thing is getting recognition from other chefs. This feels like a seal of approval, because I never had formal training. What’s the most challenging element of your career? Finding the right balance between a customer’s tastes and making what I want to make. Everyone has diﬀerent tastes in everything, especially food. [Thais are] still under-educated about cooking and ingredients, so they only judge what’s good according to size. How would you describe Let Them Eat Cake’s dessert style in two words? Delicately sweet. facebook.com/letthemeatcakebkk

LIFE IS SWEET A fashion student-turned-pâtissier from Chiang Mai tells us how, for her, decadent desserts became not just a special treat but a livelihood

photo DAVID TERRAZAS

"i love discovering new recipes and adapting them to make them my own"

photo BRENT LEWIN

Lock, stock and barrel Prayuth Piangbunta from PB Valley learnt the art of winemaking in Germany

SWEET

The beautiful hills of Khao Yai are not just home to Thailand’s most visited national park, but also the vineyards that are leading the way for the country’s burgeoning wine industry

VALLEY HIGH WORDS BRENT LEWIN

p i c k o f t h e b u n c h Classic grape varieties like Shiraz and Chenin Blanc have done particularly well in Khao Yai

I f t h e s h o p p i n g , sightseeing and chaotic abundance of sights, sounds and smells in Bangkok have you feeling a little frazzled, you need look no further than nearby Khao Yai National Park to restore some balance. Khao Yai, translating to “big mountain”, lies just 150km north-east of the capital, and has long been a popular weekend getaway for Bangkokians seeking to recharge and reconnect with nature. Khao Yai has gained momentum as a tourist destination while retaining much of its original secluded charm. Just outside the national park, visitors can ﬁnd a wide range of accommodation and activities such as rafting, shopping or a trip to a nearby dairy farm. One of the region’s newest claims to fame, however, is the four wineries that are rapidly bringing Thai wine to global attention. Historically, Thai wine was brewed from tropical fruits such as pineapple, and was poorly executed. As a result, a long-standing perception among Thais was that if you wanted good wine, you had to get it from overseas. Nowadays,

se t t ing up a w inery in volv ed y ears o f e x p e r i m e n t i n g w i t h grape varie t ies t o see w h i c h w e r e s u i t a b l e the Asoke Valley, nestled at the foothills of Khao Yai National Park, is home to GranMonte Asoke Valley Winery and PB Valley Khao Yai Winery, two world-class vineyards that have been showered with awards since ﬁrst arriving on Thailand’s wine scene. A new industry bears fruit “Setting up a winery in Khao Yai was very challenging,” recalls Prayuth Piangbunta, chief winemaker at PB Valley. “It involved years of experimenting with over 50 varieties of grapes to see which were suited to Khao Yai’s environment.” Grapes for winemaking have traditionally been grown between the 30th and 50th parallels in both hemispheres. After years

of testing and research, PB Valley – the first and largest winery in Khao Yai – did what many thought impossible and released their first Shiraz and Chenin Blanc in 2000, grown at the tropical latitude of 14.3 degrees north. Ironically, Prayuth realised his passion for wine while working as a brewmaster with Singha, Thailand’s largest beer manufacturer. He was sent to Germany to study winemaking and returned after three years as Thailand’s first native-born oenologist. “Although Thai wine had come a long way, the perception still lingered that imported wines were better,” Prayuth explains. “I thought: Why not have people come visit, show them the vineyard, walk them through the grape-growing process and winery, and let them

o n v i n t a g e f o r m Khao Yai’s abundant harvest means that one vineyard alone can produce 100,000-plus bottles a year

photos BRENT LEWIN

see for themselves that Thai wine can actually be world class?” he says. The good and the grape While PB Valley takes credit as the pioneer of wine in Khao Yai, GranMonte has the most ambition, and is certainly doing its part to raise awareness and win respect for Thai wine. Set on the grounds of a former cashew nut plantation, the vineyard is headed by the founder’s daughter and in-house winemaker Visootha (Nikki) Lohitnavy. After studying viticulture and winemaking in Australia, Nikki returned as Thailand’s youngest and ﬁrst female oenologist. Crafting over a dozen varieties of wine, Nikki has been behind the 100plus awards won by GranMonte since its inception – accolades which have played a major role in putting Thailand on the map for wine enthusiasts. Classic grape varieties like Shiraz and Chenin Blanc, which can produce lusciously sweet dessert wines, light sparkling wines and full-bodied whites have done particularly well. Yet, Prayuth

believes grapes grown in Khao Yai possess unique characteristics that offer drinkers a distinctive flavour and pair particularly well with Thai food. “Our special climate and latitude give our grapes a lot of sun exposure, so the skin of the grapes tends to be thicker,” he explains. PB Valley creates wines from six grape varieties and produces over 100,000 bottles a year. Although Prayuth gravitates towards Rieslings, which remind him of his years abroad, picking a favourite homegrown wine is a challenge. “Oh, that’s difficult,” he chuckles. “That’s like asking me which of my children I like best!”

Set amid the verdant landscapes of Khao Yai, just a few hours from Bangkok, the winery-inspired dusitD2 Khao Yai will make the perfect country getaway when it opens in late 2015. www.dusit.com

Khao Yai’s natural riches A refuge for fugitives at the beginning of the 20th century, the 2,168 sq km of forest around Khao Yai was established as Thailand’s ﬁrst national park in 1962. Hosting the largest intact monsoon forest in Asia – home to hundreds of species like hornbills, elephants, gibbons, even a few shy tigers – it’s no surprise that Khao Yai is the most visited of Thailand’s national parks. Most visitors combine a hike on one of the many trails, followed by a dip in one of its pristine waterfalls – the most popular being Nam Tok Heaw Suwat, a gorgeous 20m cascade that was featured in the ﬁlm The Beach.

photo DAVID TERRAZAS

Risque Business? Many people have racy preconceptions about belly dancing, but Hadassa explains that its original purpose was not to titillate

WAIST

M A N A G E M E NT Eight hears from Hadassa, a Finnish-born professional belly dancer who’s lived in Thailand for eight years, as she debunks some of the spicier myths surrounding this hip-gyrating artform

H a d a s s a s t a r t e d h e r belly-dancing career in her native Finland before moving to Thailand in 2007. Here, she performs solo shows, and also gives weekly classes at Rising Star Studio and Center Stage Academy in Bangkok. Aside from travelling to Egypt twice a year to train with local masters, Hadassa’s career has taken her throughout the Middle East, and as far as East Africa.

people come to tell me after the show that they were so touched by my performance that they cried – or laughed. If I can touch somebody’s heart, I feel I have succeeded.

How did you choose such an exotic career? I’ve had a great passion for classical Arabic music and Middle Eastern culture since a really young age. For me, dance was one way of trying to understand that culture. So I started studying Egyptian dance, which people more commonly call “belly dancing”.

How do you respond to people who claim belly dancing is too spicy? Instead of “risqué”, I would call it feminine and sensual. Belly dancing requires a lot of training, and belly dancers are not strippers or seductresses, even though they are often portrayed as such. There’s a long history behind this dance, and originally it was not danced in public, or in front of men. It was Hollywood ﬁlms that ﬁrst featured belly dancers with bare stomachs, and since then semi-nakedness has become the fashion.

What do you love most about your work? I love my audiences. I love that my dancing can bring joy to people, especially when I get to dance at weddings and other celebrations. Sometimes

Would you say belly dancing empowers female sensuality? I would say it empowers femininity. It makes a woman conﬁdent with her body

– whether she’s big or small – and lets her become aware of her uniqueness, with all her physical imperfections. It helps a woman accept who she is. The beauty is within the dance itself, and when women of diﬀerent ages, body types, races, religions and cultural backgrounds get together to dance – that’s power! What was your most memorable moment? Last year I was invited to perform at the private birthday party of a Thai princess, and I had the honour of dancing in front of the beloved HRH Princess Sirindhorn. I also had the honour of dancing at HRH Crown Prince Vajiralongkorn’s Christmas charity event. These experiences make me very humble and grateful. Where do you see your career heading? Who knows! But I hope that I will continue to dance until I drop. hadassadance.com

THYME FOR A

RETHINK Commonly found spices and herbs have been used in traditional Thai

medicine for thousands of years. We examine the ingredients most likely to spice up your wellbeing – and whom they will beneﬁt the most WORDS NAN TOHCHOODEE

illustrations Elena Pimonova

A s m u c h a s we would all like to live a wellbalanced and healthy lifestyle, the reality of modern society can throw people off track. The pressures of work mean less time to worry about our health, leading many to opt for quick cosmetic fixes such as botox and chemical peeling. But there are ancient, natural options that can better help us regain a proper balance. For more than 5,000 years, herbs and spices have been used in traditional Thai medicine to enlighten the mind and energise the body by awakening the balance of the Tad Si, or four elements: fire, water, wind and earth. Traditional Thai medicine is based on the belief that each individual possesses Tad Jao Roan, or a “main birth element”, based on the month they were born. When the birth element is in harmony with other elements in the body, an individual will be healthy and free from disease. By adding select spices to your life, whether in culinary form or through spa treatments, you can add balance to your daily life. Most spices, especially those native to South-East Asia, contain high levels of trace minerals, vitamins and antioxidants, and have anti-inflammatory properties. So the secret to feeling better and looking younger may actually be found at your local market, or even in your kitchen's spice rack. Chilli No Thai kitchen is complete without chilli, and usually lots of it. The bird’s eye chilli, also known as the Thai chilli, is just one of over 200 varieties found globally, but it’s certainly among the spiciest. This humble, if fiery, spice contains up to seven times the vitamin C level of an orange, as well as vitamins A and E and beta-carotene. While most people think that the seeds are the hottest part of the chilli, the white membranes actually contain the most capsaicin, which is the chemical compound responsible for the spicy taste. Those born in April, May and June with the “Wind” Tad Jao Roan will enjoy the benefits of chilli as well as herbs and spices such as basil, ginger, fennel and garlic. Not only does chilli give food a lift, but it can also aid weight management by boosting metabolism and curbing appetite. Kaffir lime Native to Thailand, Laos, Indonesia and Malaysia, kaffir lime is not only used to enliven your favourite curry and tom yum recipes; it has a multitude of health benefits, especially for those seeking

lemongrass can soothe an irritable mood and restore emotional balance

Turmeric Native to India, this spice has been used for thousands of years – ﬁrst as a dye for garments, then as a condiment in curries – but it is also conducive to healthy skin. Turmeric plants are rich in antioxidant vitamins such as A, B1, B2,

C and E, which help reduce damage from the sun, pollution and everyday aggressors in the environment. Its anti-ageing properties make it a popular component in spa and facial treatments. Along with helping to reduce signs of ageing, turmeric’s anti-inflammatory properties are also highly effective in treating acne and sensitive skin conditions such as rosacea. Try it yourself by creating a simple face mask from finely grated turmeric combined with honey. Those born in October, November or December with the “Earth” Tad Jao Roan should reap the most benefit from turmeric, as well as tropical fruits such as mangosteen, rambutan and guava. Lemongrass As its benefits are so numerous, it’s not surprising that lemongrass is so widely used in Asia. It features extensively in Thai cooking, adding a citrusy taste that brightens up many popular

dishes. Part of the grass family, it contains antioxidants and minerals such as vitamin A, calcium and phosphorus, while just one tablespoon contains 4mg of iron. People born in January, February and March with the “Fire” Tad Jao Roan can get the most beneﬁt from lemongrass due to its cooling and detoxifying properties. To add lemongrass to your daily life, try this refreshing tea recipe: three stalks of lemongrass, hot water, three thin slices of ginger and some honey to taste.

To explore the properties of herbs and spices, and the beneﬁts of traditional Thai medicine, try the Tad Si Signature Treatment offered by Devarana Spas, found at Dusit Hotels & Resorts worldwide. www.devaranaspa.com

illustrations Elena Pimonova

long, luscious hair and a flake-free scalp. With its rough exterior, this citrus fruit might not look appealing, but when cut open it closely resembles a sweet lime. It’s rich in vitamins A and C, as well as other minerals beneficial to good health. For your daily hair treatment, try massaging the juice of half a kaffir lime into your scalp after washing your hair, leaving it for 10 minutes then rinsing. This simple regimen can fend off both dandruff and hair loss. People born in July, August and September, with the “Water” Tad Jao Roan, will get most benefit from eating sour fruits such as kaffir lime, tamarind and Chinese cucumber.

SUGAR

While the combination of contrasting tastes in desserts is a

relatively new departure on Western menus, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been a ďŹ xture of

SPICE WO R D S C H AWA D E E N UA L K H A I R

Photos GREGOIRE GLACHANT

traditional Thai sweets for many centuries

s u g a r r u s h Dishes like pagrim khai tao (ﬂour, duck egg and coconut milk) blend sweet and salty ﬂavours in one dessert

P e p p e r c o r n s , c h i l l i p o w d e r , curry: common enough staples on menus at any eclectic Western restaurant. However, trend-savvy chefs are now reserving some of their spices and savoury ingredients for the dessert menu, blurring the line between main courses and the usual sweeter ﬂourishes that signify the end of a meal. Western chefs have become enamoured with melding the savoury with their sweets, mixing chilli with chocolate, adding pepper to their panna cotta, and making sorbets out of anything they can get their hands on. It has even hit the mainstream, in mass-market products such as Häagen-Dazs’s new Salted Caramel ice cream, and through the dessert recipes of gourmet publications like Food & Wine calling for red miso in cookies and bacon for brownies. While Western dessert menus are just starting to shift from purely sweet ﬂavours, Thai chefs have been exploring the boundary between

"Thais want their desserts to b e s w e e t, b u t n o t too sweet"

coconut it becomes too greasy, so we have to balance it with salt too.” This predilection for combining all types of ﬂavours into one dish is perhaps most striking in

savoury and sweet dishes for centuries. Wellknown favourites from central Thailand such as gaeng kiew wan (sweet green curry) offer the perfect introduction for foreign diners to the delicate balance of sweet, salt, sour, bitter and spicy flavours that form the guiding principle behind central Thai cuisine. It’s an ethos that extends to the less-explored Thai desserts, traditionally made of rice or rice flour, coconut and palm sugar. “Thais want desserts to be sweet, but not too sweet,” explains chef Supapit Opatvisan, an instructor in Thai cuisine at Le Cordon Bleu Dusit Culinary School. “When we make a dessert out of sugar and

mamuang nam pla wan (fresh green mango with a “sweet” fish sauce), a sweet-spicy-tart-salty dessert that blurs the line between the sweet and savoury. Green slivers of sour mango are dipped into a sauce of shrimp paste, fish sauce, dried shrimp, shallots, dried chillis and a heaping of palm sugar for a sweet but spicy snack. More often, though, Thai desserts tend to skirt the line between sweet and salty. Old-fashioned Thai puddings – mostly conceived before the late 1500s – are typically two-tiered affairs, utilising either boiled dumplings served in a savoury coconut milk or layering a “sweet” body of sugar and rice with a “salty” topping of coconut and/or coconut cream, accentuated with salt. This latter method is most obvious in sweet-savoury desserts

Photos GREGOIRE GLACHANT

s w e e t a n d s o u r Snacks like fresh green mango with a sweet ﬁsh sauce also incorporate ﬁery dried chillis

such as the popular street-food staple kanom toie (“bowl” dessert, so named because of the small ceramic bowls in which these delicacies are steamed). “You get the sweetness from the bottom and the saltiness from the top,” said chef Supapit. The arrival of the Portuguese ushered in new ingredients and cooking methods, but the savoury approach remained. No history of Thai desserts is complete without mention of Maria Guyomar de Pinha (known among Thais as “Tao Tong Geeb Ma”), the Portuguese-Japanese wife of a French courtier who became a cook at the Royal Palace in the late 1600s. Thai food celebrity Chef McDang calls de Pinha “the Escoffier of Thai cuisine” and credits her with innovations such as adding eggs to Thai desserts. “Kanom mor gaeng (Thai dessert custard) is basically a flan,” says McDang – much like an actual egg flan, but featuring ingredients like palm sugar, coconut milk, pumpkin, yellow bean

or taro and a topping of crispy fried shallots. The famous Thai dessert sankaya fuk tong (palm-sugar custard steamed in a pumpkin) – also said to originate from de Pinha’s kitchen – contains palm sugar, coconut cream and pandanus leaves instead of sugar, milk and vanilla. The savoury addition of pumpkin originally arose out of practical culinary concerns: its purpose was to give the custard a receptacle in which to steam. Today, the inclusion of savoury elements remains a staple in Thai dessert cooking. It has extended beyond salt, coconut milk, shallots and the chillis in sweet fish sauce; it now embraces the dried fish mixed with sugar that tops the sticky rice in khao niew pla hang (dried fish-topped sticky rice), and even the shrimp filling the riceflour dumplings known as tua plap na goong. “If you don’t use salt, or the ‘bad’, in your dessert, then you can’t completely appreciate the ‘good’, or the sweet,” says chef Supapit.

SWEET 1/ crimson tide

2/ the sweet hereafter

3/ the bee's knees

4/ raising cane

Every year, between October and March, thousands of blooming water lilies turn the surface of Nong Han Lake, Udon Thani Province, into a vivid carpet of red. Now a major atttraction dubbed the Red Lotus Sea, the best time to visit is early morning, when a light mist skims the water and the sweet scent of this ﬂoral wonder ﬁlls the air.

Popular in a number of South Asian countries, but originating in India, gulab jamun is a dessert made from milk solids that are then served in a light, sugary syrup that can be flavoured with rose water, saffron or green cardamom. It’s often served on festival days, or at significant events such as weddings or birthdays.

Made from layers of filo pastry filled with nuts and stuck together with honey, baklava makes the perfect sweet accompaniment to a strong Arabic coffee at the end of a meal. Its exact origins remain uncertain, but it is now widely served across the Middle East and beyond, and comes in a wide array of varieties.

There can be few drinks as refreshing as a freshly squeezed glass of sugar cane, and it’s no surprise that the confection is such a popular sight at stalls in tropical countries like Malaysia, Thailand and Singapore. Of course, it has an even greater value when reﬁned into sugar to feed the world’s collective sweet tooth.

Photos getty images

SPICY 5/ hot stuff

6/ Bold spice

7/ Shaking it up

8/ SOUK IT AND SEE

Chillis left to dry in the hot tropical sun are a common sight in many Asian countries, but they are actually native to the Americas. Historians believe chillis were brought to Asia by Portuguese navigators during the 16th century, and they have gone on to have a massive impact both on the cuisine and the cultures of the region.

A chef cooks uses an iron hot plate to prepare a Szechuan dish of squid, peppercorn and chili, a classic example of this distinctive cuisine whose strong, spicy ﬂavours derive from the generous use of garlic and chilli oil. Chengdu in south-western China, one of the main centres for this distincrive regional cuisine, was named a City of Gastronomy by UNESCO in 2011.

The last 10 years have seen cocktails elevated to a new level of appreciation thanks to the use of new techniques and the addition of blends of herbs and spices. That’s given birth to drinks like this Fiery Passion Thunderball, which utilises gold tequila, passionfruit and chilli, and is available at the new 22 Kitchen & Bar at the Dusit Thani Bangkok.

Spices have a long and signiﬁcant role in world history, and the markets that grew up to trade these essential commodities assumed their own power and importance. Many, like the Khan El-Khalili in Cairo or Asia’s largest spice market, the Khari Baoli in Delhi, have remained signiﬁcant markets in modern times.

FIVE-STAR MEMORIES Repeat guests tell us why a stay at a Dusit hotel is so memorable

Igor Thiago Almeida and Karsten Stanelle Dusit Thani Bangkok

Irving Becker Dusit Thani Laguna Phuket

Why do you keep coming back to the hotel? Put simply, the overall standard is just way above other hotels we’ve stayed at in Thailand. But that’s just one reason; the service is also consistently excellent. The staﬀ are very sincere and attentive. They always return customers’ smiles and are genuinely warm. The rooms are equally special: the decor and ambience are just so relaxing. There are these unique Thai touches all over the hotel, which help you really feel like you’re in Thailand, a country that’s so rich in culture.

Why do you keep coming back to the hotel? It’s simple – the reason we return every year, and why we recommend the resort to our friends, is because of the wonderful staff. They are all my family now. Can you share a memorable experience? Sadly, it was during the 2004 tsunami, when the hotel was badly damaged. Even though staff had families who were affected by the disaster, their main concern was for the guests of the hotel. They looked after us and made us as comfortable as possible.

"We i m m e d i a t e ly felt a special attraction to the island and the wonderful staff"

Cheng-Sen “Mario” Chen Dusit Princess Srinakarin, Bangkok Why do you keep coming back to the hotel? It’s because of the staff! They are just the friendliest people that I’ve ever met in any hotel, always welcoming me with a smile. I just feel so at home here. That’s why I’ve stayed here over 100 nights. Can you share a memorable experience from your stay? Every day is memorable here, especially at Square One restaurant, thanks to the friendliness and the high levels of service.

Coeme Arnout Dusit Thani Maldives Why do you keep coming back to the hotel? My wife and I both run demanding businesses, which means long working hours and lots of stress. As such, family holidays are precious. We used to have an unwritten rule to only visit a resort once – a rule we followed until two years ago, when we arrived at the Dusit Thani Maldives.We immediately felt a special attraction to the island and the wonderful staﬀ. It has a one-of-a-kind atmosphere. Having visited dozens of other luxury resorts, we can honestly say Dusit Thani is one of the very best in the world.

MAKING LIGHT OF SAVINGS The Dusit Group of hotels has looked to improve its environmental credentials while still providing an exceptional customer experience W O R D S PA T T A M A P O R N K I T T I PA N A C H O L

M A N Y S C E P T I C S D I S M I S S corporations deciding to go green as simply an exercise in good public relations. But when seriously pursued, efforts to conserve energy and reduce waste can make a real difference to the environment. This was something the Dusit Group, which oversees nearly 20 locations around the world, discovered for themselves when they first enrolled in the EarthCheck Certification Program to promote sustainable tourism in 2009. This scientific benchmarking, certification and advisory group identifies industry best practices in travel and tourism, and annually audits members’ efforts to match up to those ideals. After a thorough inspection, the Group upgraded its infrastructure and equipment to comply with this global program’s required targets, and address all the major problems within the initial two-year deadline. “We now have Silver Certificates for eight hotels in Thailand and four overseas which are awarded for

complete compliance,” says Sathid Na Nongkhai, Corporate Director of Engineering, who directly oversees all eight of the Dusit Group properties in Thailand, the Philippines and the Maldives, and advises the in-house environmental teams for the properties the brand manages. “We’ll receive the Gold Certificate for eight hotels next year after maintaining and improving our performance over the past five years.” As well as receiving certification, the Group’s adoption of specific green initiatives has led to significant environmental and financial benefits without compromising the guest’s experience. Change is in the air For example, up to 60% of a hotel’s electricity consumption is used in regulating temperatures and, particularly in the tropics, air conditioning. As such, investing in high-efficiency chillers and variable speed devices that reduce energy expended, yet match cooling needs, meant that investments in new chiller plants immediately reduced monthly bills by at least 5%, and paid for themselves within five years as a result of making those savings. Lighting is another major expense for hotels, so the Group began converting from conventional lighting to LED systems. This helped electricity consumption plummet 60%, as the brightness of a 5 watt LED bulb is comparable to 50 watt halogen and incandescent bulbs. Lighting systems, lights and guest rooms were redesigned and installed with automated lighting and dimmers that improved energy efficiency to average 20 watts per square metre. “We never compromise on ambient temperature and lighting, even as we save on cost,” explains Khun Sathid. Currently, 80% of all lights in the hotels use LED bulbs, and 95% of the guestrooms use LED lighting. Future plans are scheduled to make all Dusit hotels 100% lit by these long-life bulbs, which also reduces maintenance efforts as fewer technicians are required to change them. Spent LED bulbs, along with other toxic waste, are sent to special agencies as a part of the group-wide Reduce, Reuse and Recycle program. Other environmental savings implemented by the Group relate to water, another big area of potential wastage in the hotel business. A specific example would be how the Dusit Thani Hua Hin uses reverse osmosis filtration to make its own drinking water and eliminates the use of 400 to 500 plastic bottles daily by serving that drinking water in reusable glass bottles. They also treat raw water from municipal sources to make fresh

water for general purposes around the hotel. Some of Dusit’s eco-policies actually end up costing more, but more importantly, they minimise the hotel’s overall environmental impact – practices such as using certified ecofriendly cleaning liquids that are more easily broken down by a waste-water treatment system. Preach what you practise Just as important as new hardware and techniques is the effective training of staff to adhere to rules about cooling and lighting different locations. This covers everything from turning electrical devices off during lunch and after work in administrative offices, and in dining outlets and kitchens during off-hours, to setting systems to automatically switch off specific lights and turn up thermostats during low-traffic hours in public areas. “If people only knew how much water, gas, coal and oil is used to produce one kilowatt of electricity, they would value it more,” says Khun Sathid. “That’s why we encourage our staff to practise cost-cutting in their own homes. It’s about changing people’s mindsets,” he continues. “Every effort makes a difference.” By working with EarthCheck, the Dusit Group has been able to reduce its carbon footprint and looked to ensure the environmental sustainability of its growth and development, while building on its strong foundation and reputation as one of the leading hotel brands in Asia.

Dusit Thani Dubai was the First Hotel in the Gulf States to Earn EarthCheck Gold Certification in 2015

DUSIT INTERNATIONAL Dusit Thani Bangkok Thailand

Dusit Thani Pattaya thailand

Dusit Thani Hua Hin Thailand

Dusit Thani Phuket Thailand

Dusit Thani Baa Atoll Maldives

Dusit Thani Manila Philippines

Dusit Thani Dubai UAE

Dusit Thani Cairo Egypt

Dusit Thani Abu Dhabi UAE

Dusit Thani Guam USA

Dusit Thani Devarana Conghua, Guangzhou c h i n a

Dusit Devarana New Delhi India

dusitD2 Chiang Mai Thailand

dusitD2 Phuket thailand

dusitD2 Changzhou china

dusitD2 Pasadena Usa

dusitD2 Nairobi Kenya

Dusit Princess Srinakarin, Bangkok T h a i l a n d

Dusit Princess Korat Thailand

Dusit Princess Chiang Mai China

Dusit Thani Brisbane Australia

Dusit Thani Cam Ranh Vietnam

Dusit Thani Liaoning China

Dusit Thani Dongtai, Jiangsu C h i n a

Dusit Thani Fuxian Lake, Kunming C h i n a

HOTELS & RESORTS Dusit Thani Huangdao, Qingdao C H I N A

Dusit Thani Krabi Thailand

Dusit Thani Laguna Singapore S I n g a p o r e

Dusit Thani Panzhihua, Sichuan C h i n a

Dusit Thani Qinfeng, Changzhou C h i n a

Dusit Thani Qinyuan, Guangzhou C h i n a

Dusit Thani Sousse Tunisia

Dusit Thani Shaoxing, Zhejiang C h i n a

Dusit Thani Suining, Sichuan C h i n a

Dusit Devarana Baoting, Hainan C H I N A

Dusit Devarana Dianchi Lake, Kunming C H I N A

Dusit Devarana Maldives

dusitD2 Davao Philippines

dusitD2 Hongmei, Changzhou C h i n a

dusitD2 Khao Yai Thailand

affiliate hotels

dusitD2 New Delhi India

dusitD2 Society Hill, Tianjin C h i n a

dusitD2 Suining, Sichuan c h i n a

dusitD2 Thimpu Bhutan

• Dusit Island Resort, Chiang Rai T h a i l a n d • Royal Princess Larn Luang, Bangkok T h a i l a n d • Pathumwan Princess, MBK Center, Bangkok T h a i l a n d • Dusit Residence Dubai Marina, Dubai U A E

w w w. d u s i t. c o m

dusitD2 Residence, Yangon myanmar

Dusit Princess Cebu Philippines

Dusit Princess NAIA Gardens, Manila P h i l i p p i n e s

Dusit Residence & Suites, Doha q a t a r

WITH OVER 65 YEARS OF EXPERIENCE, Dusit International is a leader in hotels and hospitality. The group was founded in 1948 when Honorary Chairperson Thanpuying Chanut Piyaoui opened her ﬁrst hotel, the Princess, on Bangkok’s New Road. The successful venture represented a major breakthrough for Thailand’s hospitality industry and eventually led to the creation of one of today’s leading Asian hospitality brands. Continuing in this pioneering spirit, Thanpuying Chanut embarked upon developing a luxurious city-centre property, Dusit Thani Bangkok. Opening in February 1970, the Dusit Thani Bangkok immediately set new standards of hospitality and became the city’s pre-eminent social hub, even holding the distinction of being Thailand’s tallest building for nearly a decade. The essence of the Dusit Thani brand is best symbolised by the statue of King Rama VI, which stands across the street from the hotel. Reigning from 1910 to 1925, King Rama VI’s philosophy on the ideal modern state blended Western and Thai inﬂuences. He also conceived the utopian ideal of Dusit Thani, which means “town in heaven” – an important belief for all Thai people. During the late 1980s and early 1990s, Dusit responded to Thailand’s growing popularity as a tourist destination by opening lavish, resort style properties under the Dusit Thani brand in Pattaya, Phuket, Hua Hin, Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai. The company also acquired the Hotel Nikko Manila in 1995, later renaming it

Dusit Thani Manila. In early 2001, Dusit Thani Dubai also opened, adding the Middle Eastern market to the group’s portfolio. In 2006, dusitD2 hotels and resorts was created as an expansion of the main Dusit Thani brand. The dusitD2 concept is the company’s contemporary, second-generation offshoot, which balances tradition and trendiness with chic comfort and convenience. The first dusitD2 opened in 2006 in the historical city of Chiang Mai, followed by a second location in Pattaya. In 2013, the brand became the first of the Dusit

being named a “High Design Haven” by Travel + Leisure magazine and appearing on Condé Nast Traveler’s “50 Coolest New Hotels” hot list. Additional hotel and resort projects in Gurgaon, New Delhi and Aerocity will open in 2015. The second joint-venture agreement established Dusit Fudu Hotels & Resorts, the operational name of Dusit Fudu Hotel Management (Shanghai) Company Limited, which expands the hotel chain to China. Hotel management agreements confirmed include three hotels in Changzhou, one each in Conghua, Dianchi, Dongtai, Fushun, Panzhihua, Qingdao, Qingyuan and Shaoxing, and two hotels and a residence in Yunnan Province’s Fuxian Lake, all anticipated to open by 2017. Dusit Fudu Hotels & Resorts is targeting a portfolio of 100 hotels within the next 15 years, all offering high-quality facilities and services inspired by the unique artistry and culture of Thailand. Dusit’s accomplishments are not limited to developing and managing hotels. In August 2007, Le Cordon Bleu Dusit Culinary School opened, a culinary education partnership that was another first-of-its-kind initiative in South-East Asia. Additionally, in 2009, Dusit Thani College launched an innovative hospitality programme in conjunction with Lyceum of the Philippines University in Manila. Dusit International has built upon its Thai heritage to create a one-of-a-kind, first-class experience for all. It is an experience unique to Dusit: one that endeavours to enliven the individual spirit, no matter what the journey.

In 1993, pioneering Thanyunping Chanut founded the first hospitalit y college in Thailand, Dusit Thani College – now the region’s leading centre for hospitality training family to launch in China with the dusitD2 Fudu Binhu Changzhou Hotel, by way of the company’s joint-venture initiative established earlier that year. New dusitD2 properties in Phuket, Nairobi and Pasadena, California followed in 2014. Expanding farther afield, Dusit International has entered into two joint-venture hotel management agreements in India and China. The first of these is with hospitality technology company Bird Hospitality Services. This pairing’s first hotel, Dusit Devarana New Delhi, opened in late 2013 to international acclaim, including