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23 October 2019
Coffee: an art and a science Writer Taylum Meyer
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he earliest evidence of coffee-drinking was discovered in what is now Yemen in the middle of the 15th century in Sufi shrines. It was here in the Arab world that coffee beans appear to have been first roasted and brewed in a similar way to modern-day coffee, which is one of the most popular drinks in the world. Coffee is a major export commodity for numerous countries, with Brazil being the leading grower of coffee beans (one-third of the world total). It is also one of the most valuable export products for developing countries. But how does the whole process work? I went to the Brew School on Friday 4 October to find out more. The Brew School was begun two months ago by coffee enthusiast Johann van der Merwe, who works for Michael and Elaine Bayer, owners of The Beanery at Gateway Centre (which has just celebrated its 11th birthday) and MondayMonday Roasting Worx in Hemel-enAarde Village. Johann and his wife, Belinda, have been coffee lovers since they lived in Pretoria eight years ago. They moved to Gansbaai in 2017 and by the end of 2018, Johann was working with Michael and Elaine, and immersing himself in the world of coffee. Johann decided to start the Brew School, which is held at The Beanery each month, to share what he has learned about the coffee industry and to teach people how they can make a delicious cup at home without the use of fancy equipment. The Beanery roasts a total of 11 different types of coffees, which are all available for purchase. For the Brew School, Johann makes use of two of these blends: a Central African and a South American one. These two coffees are very distinct from one another, making it easier for newbies to differentiate between them. Johan started by explaining the journey from bean to coffee: Coffee beans come from the berries that grow on coffee trees and are actually seeds – if planted, another coffee tree will grow from them. The beans have to be handpicked, cleaned and sorted before being exported or sold. The reason they have to be handpicked is because the age and size of the
bean will affect the taste of the coffee. The bean is green in colour when raw and sold that way so that buyers are able to roast it themselves, as roasting methods can also affect the taste. Coffee can be roasted in a drum roaster or a fluid-bed roaster. “With fluid-bed roasted coffee you taste the coffee – it’s the air that roasts the coffee, not the surface of the roaster, so the coffee has a very clean taste that is intensely aromatic, minus the acids and bitter tar that are produced by conventional roasters,” said Michael Bayer. It is important to control the heating and cooling of the beans as it is during this process that the coffee oil (caffeol) is released and gives the coffee you enjoy in your cup its taste and flavour. The bean cracks open at 160 degrees Celsius. The shape of the crack in the bean will tell you whether it is an arabica (curved gap, sweeter and softer taste) or a robusta (straight gap, stronger and harsher taste). After Johann finished explaining the process there was time for questions. Afterwards he showed us how to create a great cup of coffee at home using a pour filter, and demonstrating the difference in taste between the Central African and the South American blends. There are so many aspects that can affect the taste of the coffee (the size of the bean, whether it was picked at the right time, where in the world it came from, the roast, the barista and even the water and milk used), that making a good cup of coffee is not only a science, but also an art. The Brew School’s entertaining and informal classes, and Johann’s eagerness to share his passion for coffee, present a great opportunity for anyone to learn more about this popular drink with its many fascinating aspects and interesting history. The next Brew School will take place on 25 October and R100 gets you a seat (there are only 12 spots available). You will also receive a 250g bag of Central African or South American ground coffee (your choice), some paper filters and a pour filter to get you started at home. For more information contact Johann on 061 530 6573 or visit MondayMonday Roasting Worx on Facebook.
Local coffee lover, Jandré Kempen with Johann van der Merwe (right) and his wife, Belinda. PHOTO: Taylum Meyer