burnT Ends smoky crunchy bits of Kansas City barbecue
Gadzooks!
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no.
But that is a fine looking sandwich! I present thee with the Z-Man.
George Washington Hail to the Chief Barbecue Fanboy Chef Michael Beard, Lawrence’s Duroc Star page 4 All good things come to those who wait page 8 The latest in barbecue tech and toys page 12 An occasional publication of recipes, music, lore, useless information, shameless self promotion and questionable advice, from the good folks at Oklahoma Joe’s BBQ of Kansas City and Olathe, Kansas.
WE CANNOT TELL A LIE. . THIS SAUCE IS THE BOMB
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First POTUS liked his Q I T ’ S H AR D TO IMAGIN E George Washington ever having
any fun at all. ‘Dude always looks so serious—like he’s shouldering the hopes and fears of an entire nation. Even if he is the Father of Our Country and all, Dad needs to chill. Ah, but appearances can be misleading. Seems Ol’ George was a lot more fun than all the straight-laced, grim-faced, portraits of him would imply. A reading of his personal diaries reveals a real person, a whole man, a fellow who liked having a good time as much as the next guy. On May 27, 1769, Washington notes in his journal that he traveled to Alexandria, Virginia, to attend a “barbicue.” It must have been quite the party, because he stayed all night. In fact, while he was chowing down on barbecue he was also cleaning up in a card game. His diary says that he won a game of “eights.” Then in May 1774, Washington went to another “barbicue” with some friends. And here we see a pattern emerge. Each time the future first president attends a barbecue, his journal indicates that for a day or two afterward he lays low and doesn’t do anything worth recording in his diary. Nothing. Then, according to the journal, he goes to church. Clearly, he needs a day or so to recover from his hearty partying, after which he feels the need for repentance. There’s a phrase that’s long been used to describe George Washington and his role in the history of our nation; “First in war. First in peace. First in the hearts of his countrymen.” Seems he was also first in line for barbecue.
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choppi ng do wn sto ry of young George Washi ngton l) pha cry apo bly oba (pr ecially the of r no In ho rry-based barbecue sauce that’s esp che a for ipe rec ty tas a s ’ e her e, tre , we call it his father’s che rry not too much) chipotle in this recipe t (bu e som s ’ re the se cau Be k. por tas ty on vor. Cherry Bo mb. It explodes with fla 1 yellow onion, chopped fine 2 tablespoo ns vegetable oil 32 ounces tart che rry juice 32 ounces sweet (black) che rry juice 1 cup red wi ne vinegar 2 chipotle peppers, ste m removed 1 package dried sour che rries (size?) 4 clo ves garlic, chopped fine ntón) 1 tablespoo n smoked pap rika (pi me oved rem 2-3 pickled che rry peppers, ste ms re to tas te) 2 tablespoo ns tom ato pas te (or mo 1 cup sour che rry preserves h liquid 1 (12 oz.) jar roasted red peppers, wit ey 4 tablespoo ns rye or bourbo n whisk te) tas to re 2 tablespoo ns sugar (or mo Salt to tas te
D irections
d che rry juice, vinegar, chipotle Ad ed. eliz am car il unt oil in ion on duce In a heavy saucepan, sau té d che rry peppers. Bring to a boil. Re kle pic and a rik pap lic, gar es, rri peppers, dried che reduced by half. heat and let sim me r until liquid is ture . In a food processor, puree the mix per pep le pot chi ve mo Re l. coo let ooth. Re mo ve fro m heat and pers and che rry preserves until sm pep red d ste roa te, pas ato tom the together with to tas te. o a saucepan. Add sugar and salt int er ain str sh me e fin a h oug thr Push puree Reduce heat and let sim me r for l. boi a to k bac ng bri and ve sto to Add whisky. Retur n salt and sugar. anothe r 20 mi nu tes or so. Adjus t NOTE: This sauce probably won't
ecue sauces.
be as thick as mos t com mercial barb
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FROM BEARD TO TAIL Chef Michael Beard goes whole hog For Chef Michael Beard of Restaurant 715 in Lawrence, it’s not all about the food. It’s about history and heritage. It’s about identity and integrity. It’s about farming and family. And then it’s about the food. And though Michael is not a particularly talkative guy, on this topic he has lots to say. “You see these young chefs, fresh out of culinary school, who are so enamored of cutting-edge techniques and the latest flavors that they lose sight of the fact that food is best when it’s the product of a relationship between the cook and the farmer, and it respects culinary traditions, and reflects the culture of a community or a region,” he says. “Those things are critically important to the quality and integrity of what goes on the plate.” Michael Beard has no room for food fads on his menu at 715. His fare is honest and straightforward, and yet in no way conservative or stodgy. The emphasis is on ingredients of the highest quality, prepared such that the ingredients themselves are the focus. Nothing distracts from the essential nature of the food. The result is elegant, timeless, and delicious. As a restaurant, 715 is nothing if not contemporary. But as Michael explains, “Our approach is very Old World. Our ingredients are local. We know where they come from. We have real relationships with the farmers who grow them. When they know what we need and what our customers enjoy, they can do a better job of raising crops and animals that meet those needs. Which is really satisfying to them. And when we know what’s going on down on the farm, we have a deeper appreciation of the product and a clearer understanding of what farmers can do for us and we can do for them.” This philosophy is most evident on Thursdays. That’s the day that Michael butchers whole hogs for the various cuts of pork he uses in the restaurant. 4 4
Interestingly, some culinary historians say that the word “barbecue” comes from the French phrase barbe à queue, which translates to “from beard to tail” and was used by early French explorers in describing the native Caribbean peoples’ practice of cooking whole hogs over hardwood coals. We think the use of the word “beard” in this phrase is especially fitting, given Chef Beard’s propensity to use the entire pig, from end-to-end, beard-to-tail.
“The best pigs in the country are raised right here, locally,” he says. “We like the Duroc breed. It’s an older American breed with good fat, and rich flavorful red meat. Definitely not ‘the other white meat.’ “We use the whole animal,” he explains. “Nothing goes to waste. That’s also very Old World. What we don’t use for chops or roasts, we use in sausage, salami, soppressata, and stock. We also make our own bacon and ham. “My passion for these Old World techniques is deep,” Michael says. “That’s why I love barbecue so much. When you cook using these old, even ancient, methods — like slow smoking, you make a connection to people who came before us. When you think about it, you can trace the genealogy of the human family by studying and practicing these time-honored culinary traditions.”
Glaze 715 Pork Ribs ael Beard By Chef Mich
ed on ribs at sometimes serv be for a glaze is ke, but don’t pe ma ci re to This ce. It’s easy en ’s wr at La th in or x flav Restaurant 715 ch and comple result is a ri deceived, the rk. perfect on po
MICHAEL
BEARD 34 years old
Grew up in Ardmore, Oklahoma
Studied business at Oklahoma State University
Graduated from the Apicius Culinary Institute, Florence Italy
oil 2 tbsp olive 2 tbsp butter , diced 1 cup shallots , diced 1/2 cup garlic paste 1 cup tomato ken) ock (or chic 2 cup pork st r ic vinega 1/2 cup balsam a 1 tbsp paprik pepper e nn ye ca 2 tsp semary 1 sprig of ro er Salt and pepp
l butter is d butter unti t, heat oil an po e on low heat uc ok sa co a d In too and garlic an ts lo al sh d t them brown melted. Ad ful not to le re ca e Be st . pa ft e so d cook until until both ar d cook on me an e x st mi pa d to an vinegar much. Add toma d stock and boil sty color. Ad e. Bring to a nn ye has a nice ru ca d an ry ma se ro on a, as ik quarter. Se 5 well. Add papr reduces by a until sauce ribs. ed sh ni then simmer fi on h us Br . er d pepp with salt an
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DUROC: The following is from the National Swine Registry (www.nationalswine.com):
In 1823, a red boar from a litter of ten, whose parents were probably imported from England, was obtained by Isaac Frink of Milton in Saratoga County, New York, from Harry Kelsey. Kelsey owned a famous trotting stallion, named Duroc, and Frink named his red boar in honor of the horse. This boar was known for his smoothness and carcass quality. His progeny continued the Duroc name and many of them inherited his color, quick growth and maturity, deep body, broad ham and shoulder, and quiet disposition. The Duroc was smaller than the Jersey Red, with finer bones and better carcass quality. Beginning in the early 1860’s, Durocs were made from a systematic blending of the two very different strains. This produced a moderate hog that was well suited for the finishing abilities of the Cornbelt farmer.
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On August 12, 1929, the Colorado Agricultural College was recognized for having raised the world’s largest Duroc sow. Her name was “Titan Queen” and at 5 years of age she weighed in at 1,237 pounds. She was 46 inches tall, 112 inches from nose-to-tail and was 88 inches around.
When the U.S. population moved westward, the Duroc and many noted breeders moved west as well. Most of the breed improvement after the formation took place in Ohio, Kentucky, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa and Nebraska. Durocs have become a sire of choice to the American farmer. The climb of the breed has been accelerated by many distinguished accomplishments in prolificacy and longevity in the female line, lean gain efficiency, carcass yield, and product quality as a terminal sire. The purebred Duroc is distinguished for breed potency in today’s picture of swine improvement and holds forth inviting promise of future usefulness and value.
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finallY! SAME SAUCE. DIFFERENT NAME. It happens every day here at Oklahoma Joe’s. It’s probably happened to you. A customer finishes his Z-man and in a state of barbecue bliss thinks to himself ‘Somehow I must make this last. I must extend this ecstasy.’ And so, on his way out, he stops at the carry out counter and asks if he may buy a bottle of Oklahoma Joe’s barbecue sauce. And the answer is no. You cannot buy a bottle of Oklahoma Joe’s barbecue sauce. Sigh. It’s a long story. And a complicated one. Some of you have heard it. Some haven’t, but have maybe wondered about it. It’s the story of our name—Oklahoma Joe’s—and we’ll be telling it a lot more—in a lot more detail—in the months ahead. Suffice it to say, there are reasons why we haven’t been able to sell our own sauce to our own customers as long as that sauce bears the name Oklahoma Joe’s. But, we’re delighted to announce that your patience has been rewarded. Our original sauce, the sauce on the tables at our restaurants, the sauce on our sandwiches, including the Z-Man, the sauce you’ve come to know and love, is now available in retail bottles. With a slightly different name—Joe’s Kansas City. We love this name. We love it as much as you love our sauce. You’ll be seeing this name again. 8 4
BARBECUE BEANS WITH JOE’S KANSAS CITY BAR-B-QUE SAUCE
This home recipe comes is from Doug Worgul, our marketing guy (and author of the novel Thin Blue Smoke). These aren’t the beans we serve in the restaurants, but they are rich and yummy and great for family gatherings. The key to this recipe is soaking the beans in water spiked with barbecue sauce. The beans absorb the flavors of the sauce, giving the dish a nice complexity. 1 pound dry navy or Great Northern beans 2 yellow onions, finely chopped 2 pounds thick-sliced bacon 4 cloves fresh garlic, finely chopped 1 sweet red bell pepper, seeded and diced 1 cup Grade B maple syrup (or more to taste) 1 teaspoon smoked paprika (pimenton) 1 teaspoon ground chipotle pepper Salt and freshly-ground black pepper to taste 3 bottles of Joe’s Kansas City Bar-B-Que Sauce Rinse the dry beans and put them in a stockpot. Add a bottle of Joe’s Kansas City Bar-B-Que Sauce and then add about two quarts of cold water. Stir thoroughly. Let the beans soak overnight. The next day, cook the beans in the soaking liquid until tender. Add water if needed. Drain and set aside. Remove the bacon from its package and while it’s still cold, and the slices unseparated, cut the bacon into small pieces, about ½-inch wide. In a heavy skillet, over medium-high heat, cook the bacon together with the chopped onion until the bacon is crisp. Place the beans, the bacon and onion mixture (include the bacon fat), fresh garlic, red bell pepper, paprika, chipotle, and maple syrup in a large oven-proof baking dish or bowl. Add one bottle of Joe’s Kansas City Bar-B-Que Sauce. Stir thoroughly. Add more maple syrup, Joe’s Kansas City Bar-B-Que Sauce, and salt and pepper if desired. Bake in a 350 degree oven for 90 minutes.
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The American Way H QUALITY COOKERS MADE IN KC H
K
ansas City’s contribution to America’s long and deep barbecue tradition extends well beyond sweet sauce and burnt ends. We have, of course, pretty much contributed the entire sport of competition barbecue cooking. And Kansas City is also home to some excellent barbecue equipment manufacturers. An example of the latter is American Barbecue Systems, of Olathe, which has been making quality smokers grills for the last six years.
All ABS models are fabricated with new heavy gauge steel and have stainless steel cooking grates. And the ABS internal ash removal system makes removing ash from the firebox easy with little mess. Some ABS models are equipped with rotisseries. “Our customers appreciate the high quality, superior craftsmanship, unique design and features they find in our products,” says Hillman “Our goal is always to meet or exceed their expectations. We appreciate being a part of Kansas City's rich barbecue heritage. We like to think we’re helping to carry on that tradition.”
“We’ve been in the steel fabrication business for thirty-five years,” says company president, Mark Hillman. “We have the latest technology, machinery and experienced personnel to offer the public a excellent cookers built with professional craftsmanship.” Dan Hathaway, manager of the Kansas City BBQ Store, agrees that American Barbecue Systems (ABS) smokers are top notch. “ABS cookers are first class all the way. The All-Star, in particular, is a great high capacity backyard cooker that will hold several slabs of ribs, a couple briskets or butts, or even large turkeys. And ABS smoker require very little fire maintenance, which is a real benefit.”
THE KANSAS CITY BBQ STORE 11946 Strang line Road Olathe, Kansas 66062 Ph. 913.782.5171 www.thekansascitybbqstore.com
ABS smoker/grills feature a full length firebox across the back of the smoking/cooking chamber, which make for more consistent temperatures and smoke circulation throughout. The firebox has grill grates above the charcoal and wood grates giving cooks the flexibility to grill or smoke. 10 4
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Barbecue
is the product of a decidedly low-tech process — a process that has evolved little over hundreds of years — involving three of the most rudimentary of all elements; fire, wood, and meat. Barbecue is stubbornly analog in a digital world. That said, for backyard cooks who lean more toward the science of barbecue and less toward the art, here are some high-tech tools we feature at the Kansas City BBQ Store that you’ll find helpful and handy.
Pigs Pigs inin Pop PopCulture Culture Though we like them best tucked into a toasted bun, covered in spicy slaw, pigs are pretty popular in all kinds of other contexts.
a
B BB BQ Q TT EE C CH H The Thermapen is the fastest, most accurate cooking thermometer on the market. We swear by them here at Oklahoma Joe’s, as do championship competition barbecue cooks on the contest circuit. There are cheaper instant-read thermometers, but none better.
Many cooks like to monitor the internal temperature of their meat throughout the cooking process. The Maverick RediChek Remote Wireless Smoker Thermometer provides continuous real-time digital readings from as far as 100 feet away. Its wireless receiver beeps and flashes when meat temperatures exceed your pre-programmed temperature. The RediChek can also monitor smoking chamber temperatures.
d
b
e
a
CHARLOTTE’S WEB & WINNIE THE POOH Wilbur, from Charlotte’s Web, and Winnie the Pooh’s pal, Piglet, are two of the most cherished characters in all of literature. These two pig are so beloved, in fact, it’s a wonder that we’re not all vegetarians.
b
PENELOPE In the 2006 movie “Penelope”, Christina Ricci starred as a young woman cursed with a porcine snout.
c
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Finally, there’s the DigiQ DX, made by BBQ Guru, a thermostatically controlled blower fan that is mounted inside your smoker and linked to your laptop or home PC. When the cooking temperature in your smoker dips below the pre-programmed level that you’ve chosen, the fan kicks on to stoke your wood or charcoal fire, bringing it back up to temp.
THE KANSAS CITY BBQ STORE 11946 Strang line Road Olathe, Kansas 66062 Ph. 913.782.5171 www.thekansascitybbqstore.com
SPIDER PIG/SIMPSONS First appearing in “The Simpsons Movie”, Plopper the pig, later known as the superhero Spider Pig, has became a pop culture phenomenon. Spider Pig’s theme song made it all the way to #23 on the UK’s pop music charts.
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PINK FLOYD FLYING PIG Pink Floyd’s flying pig on the cover of their 1977 classic “Animals” is probably our favorite of this particular collection. “You know that I care what happens to you, And I know that you care for me. So I don't feel alone, Or the weight of the stone, Now that I've found somewhere safe To bury my bone. And any fool knows a dog needs a home, A shelter from pigs on the wing.”
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ARNOLD ZIFFEL Only Baby Boomers will remember Arnold Ziffel, the pampered pig on TV’s “Green Acres”. The best bit of Arnold Ziffel trivia, however, comes from the 1994 film “Pulp Fiction,” in which the character Jules—played by Samuel L. Jackson—refers to Arnold, saying a pig would have to be “ten times more charming” than Arnold for him to eat it.
f
PORKY PIG Th-that, th-that, th-that’s all, folks!
Someone's in the Kitchen
Meet Jacque and Dan Hathaway
NAMES: Jacque and Dan Hathaway POSITIONS: Jacque is Executive Assistant to Oklahoma Joe’s owner Jeff Stehney. Dan is Manager of The Kansas City BBQ Store Family comes first here at Joe’s. And not just because we’re a family owned and operated business, but also because within our company we employ lots of folks who happen to be related to one another; siblings, cousins, in-laws, and spouses.
Queen with a Capital Q Carolyn Wells has done as much as any other person alive to advance the growing sport— and, yes, it is a sport—of competition barbecue. She is one of the founding members of the Kansas City Barbeque Society, and is its executive director. We caught up with her to ask her about the state of the Barbecue Nation. Burnt Ends: You know as much about barbecue as anyone, Carolyn. How important is America’s barbecue tradition?
Take the Hathaways for example. Jacque has been a part of the Oklahoma Joe’s family for almost as long as she’s been married to Dan. “We’ve been married for six years and I’ve been working here for five and a half,” she says.
CAROLYN WELLS: Barbecue is America’s cuisine. Its roots are deep and as old as the country itself. Barbecue is a common thread in the patchwork quilt of American life. It crosses all socio-economic sections of American culture. Barbecue is all about food, family, friends a fun, and an all American activity.
Dan has worked for the company for nine years, having been the manager of the old company-owned liquor store (at 47th & Mission) before it was closed. He’s been manager of the Kansas City BBQ Store since it opened in 2006.
BE: What accounts for the dramatic explosion in popularity of competitive barbecue over the last few years?
“The thing I like best about working for Oklahoma Joe's is that it is constantly getting better,” Dan says. “We take something as simple as a slab of ribs and make it the best. No gimmicks, just the best damn barbecue in the world. That’s what makes this such a special place and I am proud to be a small part of that.” Jacque has her own perspective on the satisfactions of working here. “I love to watch the growth of the business and the individuals that work hard to grow with the company,” she says. “There are many people who have been with the company for years and are very passionate about their jobs.” As important as barbecue and Oklahoma Joe’s are in Dan’s and Jacque’s lives, even more important are their daughters Grace and Annabelle. After all, family comes first. Interested in working at Oklahoma Joe’s? Drop us a line at jobs@oklahomajoesbbq.com and tell us a bit about yourself. We’ll get back to you. 14 4
BBQ & A
CW: Competitive barbecue has done much to advance the popularity of barbecue and those who cook it. The logical outgrowth of competitive barbecue to the media was inevitable. National print media, radio interviews, and now cable TV series have catapulted competition barbecue to a whole new level. BE: The flavor profile in competition barbecue seems to be getting a lot sweeter. Thoughts? CW: Competition barbecue is definitely in a “sweet cycle.” Sweet, stick-to-yourfingers glazes are the order of the day. The flavor profile is much more complex and sophisticated than the old salt, pepper, vinegar, spices profile. The layers of flavor from the first bite to the back of the mouth are pretty incredible. BE: You probably don’t have time to make much barbecue yourself anymore, but when you do make barbecue, what’s your specialty? CW: In the very rare instances that I cook barbecue, my specialty is ribs. I haven’t competed in about fifteen years, so the edge has definitely worn off. My real specialty these days is eating barbecue.
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— OKLAHOMA JOE'S BBQ 2 LOCATIONS — Original “Gas Station” Location 3002 West 47th Ave. Kansas City, Kansas 66103 913-722-3366
Olathe 11950 S.Strang Line Road Olathe, Kansas 66062 913-782-6858
WWW.OKLAHOMAJOESBBQ.COM Be our Facebook friend and fan Follow us on Twitter @OklahomaJoesBBQ
Jeff and Joy Stehney, Owners & Proprietors Steve Querrey, Ryan Barrows Directors of Operations
BURNT ENDS was written and edited by Doug Worgul, Oklahoma Joe’s Writer-in-Residence,www.dougworgul.com and designed by Craig Bissell, who happens to be the last human being on the face of the earth without a website.