Field Guide 2018

the novice landscape architect’s field guide to eastern

North America from the Coastal Plain to the Ridge and Valley Belt

D. Castro

table of contents portrait | coastal plain | geologies of sand extraction

02

trip | coastal plain | the strains of hurricane sandy

05

trip | coastal plain | the tale of two watersheds

11

trip | coastal plain | the canopies of campus

17

portrait | coastal plain-piedmont | fossils of the fall line

22

trip | piedmont | birds at the basin

25

trip | piedmont | forests at the fault

31

trip | piedmont + new england | sensing the stones

37

trip| valley and ridge | raptors of the ridge

43

index

48

bibliography

52

Coastal Plain

ite Map: Layer Index geologies of sand extraction ite Map: Layer Index ite Map:Representing Layer Index the Outer Coastal Plain with a different lens: from the ground down, this exercise maps surface and subsurface ite Map:relationships Layer Index between the two sites we visited in this physiographic province, specific to the region’s sand extraction practices.

0

2mi

4mi

0 0 0 0

2mi 4mi 4mi2mi

4mi 10mi 4mi 10mi

0 0

2mi 4mi

0

4mi

10mi

20mi 20mi

10mi

N N

N 20mi Carolina Schultz, Collaboration with: Rebecca Sibinga, Aaron Stone 4mi 10mi

10mi

10mi

er time er time sey Geological his shows er time seymap Geological ategorized by his map shows er time sey Geological 0 year period.

10mi

20mi

N

historic + current sand mines

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With data from the New Jersey Geological Survey’s Report GSR25, this map shows terrestrial sand mines categorized by opening dates over a 100 year period. Smaller, blurred crosses indicate older, mostly abandoned sand mines; larger and sharper crosses indicate active mines. These mines develop around the same areas; newer mines remain in areas that had been previously populated with similar activity, creating a temporal gradient. In comparison to the surficial geology, these temporal gradients follow consistent surficial conditions, suggesting a sustained need for certain sand types.

d lines d lines d lines d lines

dredged sites and lines

d cover d cover d cover d cover

developed land cover

Two forms of dredging occur along the coastlines: channel dredging and beach fill dredging. These processes came together to reshape landscapes such as the Barnegat Harbour Inlet waterways. The sand dredged to form these channels is transported to confined disposal facilities (CDFs) along the channel’s route. There are 57 CDFs that help maintain and manage the depth of the channels. An additional, unexpected purpose for the dredging process was beach re-creation. Long Beach Island, the barrier island that forms the Barnegat Inlet and bay, receives regular maintenance to its oceanfacing beach.

This map takes data from the 2012 Land Use/Land Cover map of the Mullica-Toms region in New Jersey, borrowed from the state’s Department of Environmental Protection Bureau of GIS. Sifting through more than 50 different categories of land use, this study reduces them to 4 umbrella sections: nature-dominated, mixed, mostly developed land, and water cover. This map shows only the land cover dominated by human development in the region. There are some adjacencies between the locations of the sand mines, dredging and developed settlements.

surficial geology

eology eology eology eology

Visual investigation of the placement of the mines across the Ocean and Birmingham counties of New Jersey, and the nature of mines as extractions of resources from the earth suggested that the surficial geology was integral to the existence of mining operations in certain areas. Mines, both extinct and extant, can be found overwhelmingly along the Qca2, Qca3, and Tch sand deposits; which is very much in keeping with the area’s long history of glass production and high quality sand.

N 0

4mi

10mi

20mi

Dyan Castro / Carolina Schultz / Rebecca Sibinga / Aaron Stone Dyan Castro / Carolina Schultz / Rebecca Sibinga / Aaron Stone

2

Dyan Castro / Carolina Schultz / Rebecca Sibinga / Aaron Stone Dyan Castro / Carolina Schultz / Rebecca Sibinga / Aaron Stone

Island Beach State Park + Pine Barrens

0

2mi

4mi

10mi

Geologies of Sand Extraction 3

Coastal Plain

Cattus Island County Park Island Beach State Park

4

Island Beach State Park + Cattus Island

outer coastal plain |

the strains of hurricane sandy

location(s): Island Beach State Park + Cattus Island, New Jersey date: Tuesday , 4 September 2018 , 10:00-16:00 weather: sunny, 72-91°F, 78% humidity

5

Coastal Plain

impacts of sandy.

During the late autumn season of 2012, Hurricane Sandy devastated a number of cities in the East Coast, including the sites visited this week: Island Beach State Park and Cattus Island, New Jersey. Not only did the historic storm system significantly affect human communities, but it also greatly shaped the plant and animal communities we see in the region today. The trip consisted of traversing the island from one end to the other, to experience a gradient shift in sequence: beginning from primary and secondary dunes, continuing into the thicket, then maritime forest, tidal marshes, freshwater wetlands, and finally to the bayshore. Walking through the barrier island and witnessing the patterns of communities there reveals a picture of aftershock and growth, six years after the events of the hurricane.

summary of trip.

upside-down drawing of shadbush at the thicket

6

11:00-12:30 We explored the primary dune and secondary dune at the Johnny Allen’s Cove trail in moderate weather. For a few minutes we combed the beach. With guides from the Island Beach State Park’s office in hand, we discovered that on that clear Tuesday morning, there were a lot of scallops, Atlantic surf clams, blue mussels, jingle shells, lady crabs and human-made debris. After that, we observed some of the plants that grew along the primary dune: American beachgrass10 mostly dominating the ocean side of the dune, but with Japanese sedge3 competing with it along the edges; some scattered seaside spurge2, seaside goldenrods4 and sea rockets1 located more in the lower parts of the dune, starting to aggregate towards the secondary dune.

Stopping at the secondary dune, we observed less prominently than in the primary dune, American beach grass beginning to give way to other species and plant communities. Seaside goldenrod, button weed (Diodia teres), Virginia creeper8 and beach plum5 are more prominent in the secondary dune.

12:30-13:00 We stopped inside the thicket to do some drawing exercises with some of the plants found within it. Persisting from the secondary dune, poison ivy (Toxicodendron radicans) and beach plum continue into the thicket. The taller canopy-type plants in the thicket consist of black cherry (Prunus serotina), American holly7, shadbush (Amelanchier canadensis) and (dying) sassafras. However these trees don’t grow past about 15-20 feet due to the pruning salt spray. Below the canopy we saw bayberry (Myrica pensylvanica), winged sumac (Rhus copallina), highbush blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum), greenbrier (Smilax rotundifolia), and prickly pear cactus6.

13:30-14:15 After a quick lunch break, we traveled inland towards Barnegat Bay and briefly hiked to the salt marsh, in where the Spizzle Creek Bird Blind can be found. At that point the sun was bright, and the humidity had risen considerably. On the 1,700-foot trail to the bird blind, the group had to tough it out to get through a thicket with what felt like an army of mosquitos, even though the surrounding area was treated with mosquito ditches.

Once past the thicket, the average height of the plant communities lowered and the visually dominant plant type switched from shrubs to herbaceous plants. The common reed (Phragmites australis) almost monopolizes the ground cover of the area, with splashes of glasswort9, salt marsh aster (Symphyotrichum tenuifolium), salt hay (Spartina patens), spike grass (Distichlis spicata), sea lavender (Limonium carolinianum), black grass (Jncus gerardii) and marsh elder11 scattered about. The height of this plant community mostly does not exceed two feet, with the exception of some taller shrubs and 1-3 trees. As for wildlife, we spotted some egret and remnants of crab in the field. It’s also worth noting that right next to the bird blind stood a dying eastern red cedar (Juniperus virginiana).

14:35-15:00 Before leaving Island Beach State Park, we stopped to walk down Reeds Road, which showcases a maritime forest on the barrier island.

A big thing to notice here is the transition of the plant community’s average canopy height (from the short thicket) to about 15-25 feet. Some of the plants seen in the canopy include: pitch pines (Pinus rigida), southern red oaks (Quercus falcata), and American holly.

Below can be found: more dying sassafras, willow oaks (Quercus phellos), black cherry, bittersweet vine (Celastrus orbiculatus) and greenbrier.

15:30-16:00 Leaving the barrier island, we quickly visited Cattus Island County Park in Toms River.

The park is on the edge of mainland New Jersey with the city of Toms River to the southwest, and Barnegat Bay surrounding it north and east. We walked along a 0.2 mile boardwalk trail, a relatively new addition to the park, passing through hardwood swamp, a “ghost forest”, and a freshwater marsh. Like the previous stop, this visit showcased examples of maritime forest which included species such as pitch pines, red maples (Acer rubrum), sour gum (Nyssa sylvatica), and dead Atlantic white cedars (Chamaecyparis thyoides) in the canopy, and species such as sweetbay magnolia (Magnolia virginiana), highbush blueberry, American holly, and sedges below. For the marshland, it was dominated by the common reed, with splatters of cat tail (Carex typhina), marsh elder and shadbush in the herbaceous layer.

remnants of the past.

It is known that it was Hurricane Sandy that caused such dramatic changes in some of the plant communities we observed today, on this trip--most notably the Atlantic White Cedar Swamp in Cattus Island. The types of trees we saw during the trip that were noticeably more lifeless than its neighbors were typically sassafras, Atlantic white cedar, some sour gum and eastern red cedar. These dying yet still standing trees are a remnant of the past before Hurricane Sandy swept the region. However, most of the island seemed to stay intact.

Despite being hit hard by the superstorm, the barrier island was able to absorb the damage caused by inundation and stays as is (except for select tree species and with the help of park officials and volunteers). Eight years after the hurricane, the plant communities in the sites have recovered considerably-just like its human counterparts.

Island Beach State Park + Cattus Island

secondary dune

A.

primary dune

B.

C.

D.

A. seaside goldenrod4, virginia creeper8 B. american beach grass10 C. japanese sedge3 D. sea rocket1, seaside spurge

thicket

H.

G.

secondary dune

F.

E.

primary dune

A.

B.

C.

D.

E. juniper, poison ivy, beach plum5 F. virginia creeper8, bayberry G. american holly7, black cherry, winged sumac H. prickly pear6

maritime forest

J. red maple, pitch pine, sour gum, sweetbay magnolia K. american holly7, highbush blueberry L. dying atlatic white cedar, cat tail, common reed M. common reed, shadbush, marsh elder11

J.

K.

L.

freshwater marsh

M.

7

Coastal Plain (1)

(6)

sea rocket

prickly pear cactus

scientific name: Cakile edentula. growth habit: forb/herb native status: native annual

(2)

scientific name: Opuntia humifusa. growth habit: shrub native status: native perennial

(7)

seaside spurge

american holly

scientific name: Chamaesyce polygonifolia. growth habit: forb/herb native status: native annual

(3)

scientific name: Ilex opaca. growth habit: shrub/tree native status: native perennial

(8)

japanese sedge

virginia creeper

scientific name: Carex kobomugi. growth habit: graminoid native status: non-native perennial

(4)

scientific name: Parthenocissus quinquefolia. growth habit: vine native status: native perennial

(9)

seaside goldenrod

glasswort

scientific name: Solidago sempervirens. growth habit: forb/herb native status: native perennial

(5)

(10)

beach plum

scientific name: Prunus maritima. growth habit: shrub native status: native perennial

8

scientific name: Salicornia sp. growth habit: forb/herb; subshrub native status: native perennial

american beachgrass

scientific name: Ammophila breviligulata. growth habit: graminoid native status: native perennial

Island Beach State Park + Cattus Island (11)

marsh elder

scientific name: Iva frutescens. growth habit: forb/herb; subshrub average height: 3-8 feet native status: native annual invasive? no wetland indicator category: faculative wetland observed growing with: common reed, sea lavender,

smooth cordgrass, shadbush, groundsel-bush/tree observed growing conditions: wet conditions, in upper edges of salt marsh areas noted at these sties: Island Beach State Park (Spizzle Creek Bird Blind), Cattus Island, Cheesequake State Park other notes: leaf characteristics-opposite fleshy leaves

9

Coastal Plain

Whitesbog Preserve

Batsto Historic Village

10

Pine Barrens

outer coastal plain |

the tale of two watersheds

location(s): Pine

Barrens, Batsto Historic Village + Whitesbog Preservation date: Tuesday , 11 September 2018 , 9:30-15:00

11

Coastal Plain

two watesheds.

The Pine Barrens (officially known as the Pinelands National Reserve) originally got its name from the earliest European settlers who called it as such due to the sandy, nutrient-poor soil found there, unable to support traditional crops even though it’s home to many bodies of water. It spans over 7 counties in New Jersey, covering almost a quarter of the state.

On this trip we stopped in two sites located within it, first at the Batsto Historic Village—where we hiked along the Batsto Lake Trail—and second at the Whitesbog Historic Village—where we hiked down the Blueberry Trail. Even though both sites are within the boundaries of the Pinelands, they belong to different watersheds: the Mullica River watershed and the North Branch Rancocas Creek watershed, respectively. The first of the two eventually drains into the ocean, and the other drains to the Delaware River.

summary of trip.

9:30-11:00 For about thirty minutes, we walked into the 0.5 mile-long Batsto Lake Trail and observed the upland forest dominated by oak and pine trees as the main canopy. One of the first things that struck us was what seemed like a monotony of the forest: it looked like there were only about four species of plants in the community which were post(Quercus stellata) and black11 oaks and shortleaf pine2 in the canopy, and lowbush blueberry3, black huckleberry4 and young shortleaf pine in the shrub layer. Upon closer observation, we see that this is not the case and that the forest is a bit more diverse, and becomes even more so as we approached the lake.

11:00-11:15 We continued down the trail and noticed a change in the plant community: we had transitioned into a pitch pine1-dominated lowland forest. There was beginning to be a visible diversity of species within the plant communities, and we see more species popping up such as pitch pines in the canopy; sourgum (Nyssa sylvatica) in the subcanopy; highbush blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum), sheep laurel (Kalmia angustifolia), sweet pepperbush5 in the higher, denser shrub layer; greenbrier (Smilax rotundifolia) wrapping around some shrubs.

11:15-12:00 Another change in plant communities as well as elevation occurs when we come across an elevated boardwalk over the hardwood swamp which leads the trail to Batsto Lake. The difference between the lowland forest and hardwood swamp was dramatic, with the tall dense shrub layer getting replaced with a much less dense, shorter shrub layer of sparse highbush blueberry, fetterbush6, red chokeberry (Aronia arbutifolia), winterberry holly10, photo from the blueberry trail

12

swamp azalea(Rhododendron viscosum), maleberry (Lyonia ligustrina). In the canopy we saw the emergence of the trident red maple (Acer rubrum var. trilobum) and pitch pine; sweetbay magnolia (Magnolia virginiana) in the sub canopy; virginia chain fern7—some looking diseased— in the herbaceous layer. We exited the swamp and ended the trail at a scenic view of Batsto Lake and the historic sawmill associated with the site. At the bridge that dams up the Mullica River for the mill, we observed a low-tech fish ladder.

14:30-15:00 After having lunch at Batsto, we drove about 35 miles north to Whitesbog. Once there, we walked down the 500-foot Blueberry Trail (entrance to the trail pictured on the left) to the Triangle Field, which Elizabeth Coleman White used as a demonstration field to test out blueberry varieties— the areas surrounding it used to be human-dominated spaces such as former blueberry fields, cranberry bogs and a baseball field in the 1950s, but it is now overgrown by an Atlantic White Cedar forest. The forest was picturesque, colored a soft green throughout due to the plant community: Atlantic white cedar8 covered with santee lichen (Ladonia santensis), pitch pine, sourgum, pin oak (Quercus palustris), gray birch (Betula populifolia) in the canopy; highbush blueberry, maleberry, sweet pepperbush, sheep laurel, winged sumac (Rhus copallina), staggerbush9 in the shrub layer; cinnamon fern (Osmunda cinnamomea) and royal fern (Osmunda regalis) in the herbaceous layer. When we got to the end of the trail at Triangle Field, we took a detour towards an active American cranberry (Vaccinium macrocarpon) bog.

recent histories.

After visiting the two sites, it’s apparent that they share pretty identical plant communities in terms of species make-up, despite being located in two different watersheds. It might be worth noting, however, that the younger forest (Whitesbog)--whose watershed outlets into the Delaware—mainly consisted of Atlantic White Cedar canopies in its swamp, while Batsto—which hugs the Mullica River—has trident red maple and sourgum mostly dominating the canopy of its swamp.

Otherwise, the remaining layers have similarities between the two sites. My initial guess was that because they belong in significantly different watersheds, their plant communities must differ despite the fact that they both lie in the Pine Barrens of sandy soils. But upon reflection of the trip and brushing up on the sites histories, it seems that the forests’ history with human intervention is more to blame for their differences.

Pine Barrens

upland forest oak-pine community

A.

lowland forest pitch pine community

A. B.

C.

D.

A. mountain laurel, black huckleberry4, lowbush blueberry3 B. post oak, black oak11, shortleaf pine2 C. pitch pine1, highbush blueberry, sheep laurel D. sourgum, sweet pepperbush5, staggerbush9, greenbrier

hardwood swamp elevated boardwalk

E.

F.

G.

H.

E. trident red maple F. pitch pines1, highbush blueberry, sweetbay magnolia G. winterberry holly10, swamp azalea, maleberry H. blackjack oak, tea berry

atlantic white cedar swamp

J.

K.

road

triangle field

L.

M.

J. pitch pine , cinnamon fern, royal fern K. atlantic white cedar8, grey birch, sweet pepperbush5, maleberry L. winged sumac, staggerbush9 M. american cranberries 1

13

Coastal Plain (1)

(6)

pitch pine

fetterbush

scientific name: Pinus rigida growth habit: tree native status: native perennial

(2)

scientific name: Leucothoe racemosa growth habit: shrub native status: native perennial

(7)

shortleaf pine

virginia chain fern

scientific name: Pinus echinata growth habit: tree native status: native perennial

(3)

scientific name: Woodwardia virginica growth habit: forb/herb native status: native perennial

(8)

lowbush blueberry

atlantic white cedar

scientific name: Vaccinium pallidum growth habit: shrub/subshrub native status: native perennial

(4)

scientific name: Chamaecyparis thyoides growth habit: tree native status: native perennial

(9)

black huckleberry

staggerbush

scientific name: Gaylussacia baccata growth habit: shrub native status: native perennial

(10)

(5)

sweet pepperbush scientific name: Clethra alnifolia growth habit: shrub native status: native perennial

14

scientific name: Lyonia mariana growth habit: shtub native status: native perennial

winterberry holly scientific name: Ilex verticillata growth habit: tree/shrub native status: native perennial

Pine Barrens (11)

eastern black oak (acorn)

scientific name: Quercus velutina growth habit: tree average height: 25 ft (20 years); 80 ft (mature) native status: native perennial invasive? no wetland indicator category: obligate upland observed growing with: shortleaf pine, pitch

pine, post oaks, sassafras, eastern red cedar, lowbush blueberry, black huckleberry, mountain laurel, sweet fern, teaberry observed growing conditions: upland forests, woodlands, dryer habitats noted at these sties: Batsto Historic Village other notes: leaf shape variable, glossy above and slightly orange-tinged below, blocky bark, large pale buds, acorns with a relatively deep cut and slight fringe

15

Coastal Plain

University of Pennsylvania

16

Biopond + Shoemaker Green

inner coastal plain (fall line) |

canopies on campus

locations: James

G Kaskey “Biopond” Park + Shoemaker Green, Philadelphia, PA date: Tuesday, 2 Oct 2018, 18:00-18:30 | Sunday, 7 Oct 2018, 15:30-16:00

17

Coastal Plain

urban green spaces.

The Knoll

Hamilton Walk Entrance

le

Levin Patio Bioswa

new garden Fe

rn

er

y

modified map of Biopond

Aside from the dominating character of brick façades, one major factor that makes up the identity of the Penn campus is the green spaces/walks which are specifically designed with planting in mind. Throughout the university are these outdoor or semi-outdoor corridors which connect the different parts of the university, be they buildings or gardens. Two of the major gardens that stand out are: James G. Kaskey Memorial Park (Biopond), initiated by Professor of Botany, Dr. John M. MacFarlane in 1897 and restored and protected by Jeanne and Richard Kaskey in 2000; Shoemaker Green, designed

by Andropogon Associates Ltd, completed in 2012. The Biopond started off as a research garden which covered what used to be waste ground underneath it, consisting of many different smaller gardens as well as some small greenhouses; however as the university developed, the area of the garden shrunk from five to less than three acres, and it became increasingly degraded until the Kaskeys donated the funds to renovate the remaining pond. Now it is a popular spot for people of the university to unwind, hidden behind the tall medical campus buildings.

Shoemaker Green is a completely different space compared to the Biopond, in terms of its short history and functionality. It is 3.75 acres of corridor between Penn Park and the main part of campus, well-known for its adaptive and sustainable design. It is a flexible space that is able to be transformed for various programs since it’s situated adjacent to the Palestra, Franklin Field, Penn Park and the rest of campus. Mainly a passive recreational space, it’s designed such that it can quickly accommodate events such as graduation. Beyond the programmatic layer of the space, there’s another utilitarian quirk about it which lies in how the ground was constructed: it’s a major stormwater organ, “capturing ninety-five percent of the site’s rainwater through an integrated landscape system that includes the conveyance, filtering, and storage of stormwater for reuse as irrigation.

Additional water is provided from roof runoff and air conditioning condensate from the adjacent buildings.”

summary of trip.

18:00-19:00 When I visited Kaskey Park, it was around when students were getting out of class and going out to dinner. A lot of the occupation of the Biopond were groups of students at the picnic tables scattered around the garden, having dinner, or just hanging around. There were a few people seated at the benches with their noses in books. At first glance, it would seem that the garden wasn’t intended to be of botanical use. The more I walked around the place, the more it became easier for me to find plant labels to identify the types of plants in the gardens. I was very impressed by the diversity of the planting there; most of the species I was able to identify on site were ones we hadn’t come across in our previous field trips in class, including the Summer Institute trips! It was also pretty easy to tell when I’ve entered a new garden, by looking at the material of the walkways. After my walk around the garden, I looked into the garden website and browsed through the different resources they have, and it immediately clicked to me when I saw the map and how online it’s described

18

as a series of gardens relative to what I saw when I was there. It seems that they are trying to encourage a culture of self-guided learning in the Biopond, based on the content of the website, and how they’ve divided the park into easy-to-digest sections, complete with their labels and plant lists. Some plants that stood out to me when I visited include a number of introduced species: Japanese maple1, crapemyrtle2, English yew (Taxus baccata), horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum), deodar cedar (Cedrus deodara) in the canopy; cherry laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) and Baror’s ash (Fraxinus varoniana) in the subcanopy; creeping sedge (Carex laxiculmis) and winter jasmine3 below.

15:15-16:15 It was the Sunday after Biopond visit when I went to explore Shoemaker Green, the weather was cloudy and the place was quite empty. Even though both green spaces have passive recreational functions, the overall atmosphere differ greatly as their driving utility is completely different from one another. Biopond serves as a botanical garden, so the plants are densely packed and it’s definitely more diverse. Meanwhile, Shoemaker Green is very open, and much less diverse. It was bright, and immediately I could tell this is used for many events that host a large amount of people—football games, graduation, student fairs were the first things that popped into my mind when I went, particularly about the huge lawn in the middle. The lawn is about one acre, with only a few trees planted near the perimeter: swamp white oaks8, bitternut hickory (Carya cordiforris), red oaks(Quercus rubra) and willow oaks11.

Upon closer observation, I noticed that the place was deliberately divided in small patches surrounding the lawn. After some light research, I discovered that each of these patches had names and functions, some being for stormwater management, and some for more specific more cultural or recreational purposes. The rain garden stood out to me the most, because at first glace I thought the diverse patch was planted just for appearance (it was the face of Shoemaker, coming from 33rd Street).

But as it stands—in the lowest elevation relative to the rest of the space—it functions as stormwater management, in two layers. The first layer is the vegetation, and the second layer is the underground infrastructure that directs the rainwater runoff from the surrounding area. Some of the species included in the first layer are bald cypress (Taxodium distichum) and sweetbay magnolia5.

conclusion.

I find it interesting to approach these spaces on campus with a Workshop lens, because I never would have thought about their histories or functions otherwise, despite walking by these places quite often (Shoemaker more than Biopond, but I digress). In an urban setting, the ecosystem functions of such “natural” spaces is highlighted since they are so sparse and the need for these services is multiplied due to the amount of people in a limited amount of space.

The canopies on our campus tries to set an example for the future of urban green spaces, showing that their growing conditions and the services they provide their communities (flora and fauna) differ from their original counterparts by virtue of being urban.

Biopond + Shoemaker Green

biopond

A. B.

D.

A. english yew B. horse chestnut, creeping sedge C. cherry laurel, baror’s ash D. deodar cedar

C.

war memorial

shoemaker green

E.

G.

F.

H.

E. allegheny serviceberry7 F. willow oak11 G. red oak H. london plane tree

sidewalk

rain garden

hutchinson terrace

L. K.

J. J. willow oak , swamp white oak K. bald cypress, sweetbay magnolia5, hydrangea9 L. willow oaks11 11

8

19

Coastal Plain (1)

(6)

japanese maple

mountain laurel

scientific name: Acer palmatum. growth habit: shrub/tree native status: non-native perennial

(2)

scientific name: Kalmia latifolia. growth habit: shrub/tree native status: native perennial

(7)

crapemyrtle

allegheny serviceberry

scientific name: Lagerstroemia indica l. growth habit: shrub/tree native status: non-native perennial

(3)

scientific name: Amelanchier laevis. growth habit: shrub/tree native status: native perennial

(8)

winter jasmine

swamp white oak

scientific name: Jasminum nudiflorum. growth habit: vine native status: non-native perennial

(4)

scientific name: Quercus bicolor. growth habit: tree native status: native perennial

(9)

marginal wood fern

wild hydrangea

scientific name: Dryopteris marginalis. growth habit: forb/herb native status: native perennial

(5)

(10)

sweetbay magnolia

scientific name: Magnolia virginiana. growth habit: shrub/tree native status: native perennial

20

scientific name: Hydrangea arborescens. growth habit: shrub native status: native perennial

black eyed susan

scientific name: Rudbeckia hirta. growth habit: forb/herb native status: native annual/bi/perennial

Biopond + Shoemaker Green

willow oak

scientific name: Quercus phellos growth habit: tree average height: 60 ft (20 years); 100 ft (mature) native status: native perennial invasive? no wetland indicator category: facultative observed growing with: pitch pine, black cherry, american holly, sassafras, winged sumac, greenbrier observed growing conditions: anthropogenic, forest

edges, forests

noted at these sties: Island Beach State Park,

Shoemaker Green other notes: named for its long, narrow, willow-like unlobed leaves; grows rapidly in wetter soils

21

Coastal Plain | Piedmont

fossils of the fall line

Representing the shift which happens between the Inner Coastal Plain and the Piedmont province with a different lens: from the ground down, this exercise maps mainly the bedrock conditions between the two sites we visited in these physiographic provinces, specifically with the region’s recorded fossil discoveries.

Collaboration with: Rebecca Sibinga Upper Roxborough Reservoir

hadrosaurus

surficial geology

Merchantville Formation late cretaceous early campanian

fgp Felsic Gneiss PyroxeneBearing

trochocyathus woolmani Woodbury Formation late cretaceous early campanian

XW

Wissahickon Formation, Oligoclase-Mica Schist

Tpb Pensauken & Bridgeton Formation, Miocene

astrangia cretacea Woodbury Formation late cretaceous early campanian

ammonites

Woodbury Formation late cretaceous early campanian

hadrosaurus

Woodbury Formation late cretaceous early campanian

Qt Trenton Gravel Kp3 Potomac Formation Kmg Magothy Formation KmvMerchantville Formation Kwb Woodbury Formation Ket Englishtown Formation KmtMarshalltown Formation

t woolmani steinkern Wenonah Formation late cretaceous late campanian

pleurotomaria

Mount Laurel Formation late cretaceous late campanian

22

KW Wenonah Formation

Mt Holly + Upper Roxborough Reservoir

Mt. Holly

metamorphosis smears fossils

t woolmani steinkern hadrosaurus hadrosaurus

ammonites astrangia cretacea trochocyathus woolmani 23

Piedmont

Upper Roxborough Reservoir Preserve

24

Upper Roxborough Reservoir

piedmont uplands (fall line) |

the birds at the basin

location: Upper Roxborough Reservoir Preserve, Philadelphia, PA date: Tuesday , 2 October 2018 , 10:00-12:00 weather: partly cloudy, 64-81°F, 79% humidity

25

Piedmont

historic infrastructure.

This week the trip was at the Upper Roxborough Reservoir Preserve, the site in which the 501 studio main project is, located in the northwest edge of Philadelphia. Today it is a park which is part of the Fairmount Park Conservancy, thanks to the efforts of the Friends of the Upper Roxborough Reservoir Preserve group. Before these efforts, the reservoir used to be operational from 1909 up until 1962, after which it was abandoned and left to succumb to spontaneous vegetation over the years.

In the years following its closure, the property went between the Philadelphia Water Department and to Public Properties, and now to Philadelphia Parks & Recreation. In the beginning of the semester we had the Friends of the URR group give us a guided tour through the preserve, and they had revealed their goals for the park: to preserve the existing ecosystem by low-impact maintenance and enhancing the wildlife habitat for the bird populations that migrate through the area. During this trip the ornithologist Alison Fetterman walked through the site with us to identify birds which visit or which might have utilized the site for migration. The reservoir is sited at one of the highest points in the city, therefore it has become a hotspot for migrating birds, despite it being within the limits of a pretty dense city.

summary of trip.

10:00-12:00 Our visit was quite brief, because it’s not too large a site being only 2 acres, and we have already been coming back and forth to it since it’s the basis of our studio project. That day we looked at a site from an Ecology & Materials perspective, rather than from a surveying one we’ve done for Design Studio.

Starting from the entrance at the north corner of the reservoir, we immediately identified certain plant species that provide food for migratory birds such as the non-native amur honeysuckle (Lonicera maackii), non-native sweet cherries (Prunus avium), and the native black cherries3 (Prunus serotina). The types of birds that might eat the berries of these plants include waxwings, starlings, robins, and sparrows. As we walk down the path, we came across more and more of the mentioned cherry trees as well as some invasive rosa multiflora and native pokeweed6 (Phytolacca americana), the fruits of which birds also eat.

abstract drawing of water paths at the wet basin

26

When we reached the end point of the berm, we talked about the wet basin that has been overtaken by a monoculture of common reed (Phragmites australis) and the types of birds that would be typical to that environment: marsh wren, green heron, duck and Virginia rails.

When we got around to the dry basin, frequently dubbed the reservoir meadow, we saw plants like wineberry9 (Rubus phoenicolasius) and white ash10 (Fraxinus americana) along the path as potential food sources for meadow birds such as sparrows, Baltimore orioles, goldfinch—which tend to nest at the edges of the meadow. For the remainder of the trip, the group scattered to find artifacts around the reservoir to use for the stop-animation exercise we were to do with UNpop(https://unpop.co/) later.

conclusion.

I tend to recall the meeting we had for studio with the Friends of Upper Reservoir group when I think about the conversations we had with Alison and Sally about the bird migration and the role of the reservoir as a food source in that ecosystem flow. It’s interesting to pair the narrative of the Friends (their goals for the site as a wildlife preserve) with their strategy of management (the sort of low-impact maintenance scheme), next to the reality of the place as seen through our workshop trip (high elevation food source for migrating birds) and studio mapping lens (post-industrial urban forest with pockets of different plant communities).

The thing that stands out the most for me is the particular vision that the stewards of the Friends of Upper Roxborough Reservoir had about the meadow and marsh which grow within the basins.

They emphasize the site as an ecosystem which caters to migratory birds, and it seems that they shape and prune the park to reach that goal—by maintaining desirable and native plant species and attempting to rid of unwanted species with the most minimal-impact methods possible. A discrepancy, or perhaps a backand-forth scenario, I imagine as a consequence of this is that the people who are tasked with the lowimpact upkeep of the reservoir will never get rid of unwanted invasive species if they want to maintain its status as a wildlife preserve for migratory birds.

Precisely because the park is supposed to be a sort of habitat for those birds, the invasive plant species will prevail. The reservoir being such a built-up space (to the point that it’s almost fortified) and it being at the highest point in the city, I would conjecture that the main source of seeding (besides humans coming in and planting occasionally) is the migratory birds. It makes me wonder how other places, such as the John Heinz Wildlife Refuge we visited during Summer Institute earlier this year, maintain wildlife refuges/preserves in an urban setting; and to what degree do they shape (how often do they disturb) these places for them to be suitable as refuge for migratory birds—compared to (the seemingly unsustainable) maintenance practice at the Upper Roxborough Reservoir.

Upper Roxborough Reservoir wet basin

dry oak-heath forest

meadow

C. B. A. sweet cherry, black cherry3 B. american elm2 C. amur honeysuckle, bayberry

wet basin common reed marsh

A.

dry oak-heath forest

F. G.

E.

D. D. common reed E. american beech4, rosa multiflora, black cherry3 F. pokeweed6, catalpa5 G. angelica tree7, boxelder8

dry-oak heath forest

J.

street H.

dry basin meadow

K. L.

H. norway maple1, white ash10 J. burning bush, wineberry9, privet11 K. crab apple, white mulberry, american holly L. big bluestem, indian grass

27

Piedmont (1)

(6)

norway maple

pokeweed

scientific name: Acer platanoides growth habit: tree native status: non-native perennial

(2)

scientific name: Phytolacca americana. growth habit: forb/herb native status: native perennial

(7)

american elm

japanese angelica tree

scientific name: Ulmus americana growth habit: tree native status: native perennial

(3)

scientific name: Aralia elata. growth habit: tree native status: non-native perennial (invasive)

(8)

black cherry

boxelder

scientific name: Prunus serotina growth habit: tree native status: native perennial

(4)

scientific name: Acer negundo. growth habit: tree native status: native perennial

(9)

american beech

wineberry

scientific name: Fagus grandifolia. growth habit: tree native status: native perennial

(5)

(10)

catalpa

scientific name: Catalpa speciosa growth habit: tree native status: native

28

scientific name: Rubus phoenicolasius. growth habit: subshrub native status: non-native perennial

white ash

scientific name: Fraxinus americana. growth habit: tree native status: native perennial

Upper Roxborough Reservoir

european privet

scientific name: Ligustrum vulgare growth habit: shrub average height: 12 ft (20 years); 12 ft (mature) native status: non-native perennial invasive? yes wetland indicator category: faculative wetland observed growing with: burning bush, wineberry, crabapple, white mulberry,

american holly

observed growing conditions: anthropogenic, forest edges, shrublands noted at these sties: Upper Roxborough Reservoir other notes: strongly-scented flowers with anthers, glossy appositely

arranged, birds widely disperse its seeds

29

Piedmont

Nottingham County Park

30

Nottingham County Park

piedmont uplands (thrust fault) |

forests at the fault

location: Nottingham County Park, Pennsylvania date: Tuesday , 9 October 2018 , 10:00-14:00 weather: mostly cloudy, 70-81°F, 92%>76% humidity

31

Piedmont

thrust fault.

The geological makeup of Nottingham County Park is affected by the thrust fault between the Doe Schist of the Glenarm Wissahickon Formation and Ultramafic Rock; effectively, about a quarter of the park belongs to the schist, while the rest of the park to the serpentine and magnetite. Our threemile trek through the park included hikes through both geological regions, characterized by their respective soil profiles and plant communities. In 1999, Jean Fike recorded the distinct plant communities specific to areas atop the serpentine, named the Serpentine Barrens Complex which includes forests, shrubland, grassland, gravel-forb community and wetland.

Recently, there had been an infestation of Southern Pine Beetle which devastated the Pine forests of the park. When we visited the site, management was in the process of dealing with the infestation, by harvest and removal of the 400-acres of affected pines. modified trail map

soil sample at schist near the creek

soil sample at Firebreak #13

32

summary of trip.

10:30-11:00 We set off not too far from the park entrance, heading towards the beginning of the Buck Trail. Along the way, we passed through meadow, open woods, McPherson Lake, and finally the Placer Chromite Mill ruins. Most of the way there, the walkway was either a minimally-sloped gravel road or mowed lawn cover. McPherson Lake lies adjacent to Black Run, where chromite used to mined at the Placer Mill. The earliest record of chromite mining in the area is traced back to the 1830s; the deposits occurred in the beds and flood plains of streams. The mining of chromite at this location continued up until World War I. It was in this area where we dug into the soil in the floodplain and examined the profile: the soils were disturbed with a lot of A-horizon types, with traces of shiny mica schist. The types of plants in the immediate vicinity resembled flood plain communities, which included species such as red maple (Acer rubrum) in the canopy and in the shrub layer, Japanese stiltgrass (Microstegium vimineum), low smartweed1, and Japanese hops (Humulus japonicus).

11:00-12:00 After the ruins, we crossed Black Run creek onto the Buck Trail, where we hiked up a steep Red-Oak-Mixed Hardwood Forest on schist, mapped as Manor loam. The plant community is structured as such: red oak (Quercus rubra), black birch2 and red maple among others in the canopy; musclewood3 in the subcanopy; rosa multiflora4, autumn olive (Elaegnus umbellata), spicebush (Lindera benzoin) in the shrub layer; a gradient of ferns from low to high elevations including hay-scented (Dennstaedtia punctilobula), New York (Thelypteris noveboracensis), and Christmas (Polystichum acrostichoides) ferns in the herbaceous layer. As we approached the top of the hill, we came across what looked like a monoculture of black birch. This is where we spent some time with drawing and lunch break—on the park’s trail map, it’s where Firebreak #13 is located. .

12:15-12:45 Besides black birch, the dominant species in Firebreak #13 were red oak, red maple, American beech (Fagus grandifolia), sour gum11, and hay-scented fern. We examined the soil conditions on which this community was growing and dug up to identify the soil profile of the area. The spot in which we dug up soil sampling was at 450’ elevation, approximately a few feet away from where the schist borders the serpentine.

The coloration of the B-horizon was descriptive of the shifting bedrock; the first inch comprised of an OI layer of dead leaves, the next inch being OE, then a 2” smooth dark brown A-horizon, and finally about 5” of a smooth yellowish-red B-horizon. We then pressed on towards the serpentine.

12:45-14:30 The divide between the geology was quite apparent, as the transition between plant communities was abrupt. We went from a well-shaded canopy of the hardwood forest, to the open canopy of the Serpentine Pitch Pine-Oak forest. The structure of the community was starkly different; the schist plant community had very tall, moderately dense canopies, sparse shrubs and somewhat loose herbaceous layers of fern, whereas the serpentine forest had a looser, shorter canopy, very dense shrub and herbaceous layer composed of very different species. Some of the plants seen here include blackjack oak (Quercus marilandica), post oak (Quercus stellata), dead pitch pine (Pinus rigida) in the canopy/subcanopy; winged sumac (Rhus copallina), greenbrier6 in the shrub layer; a scattered yet diverse herb layer carrying onto the serpentine grassland portions of the trail including gray goldenrod7, serpentine aster8, common yarrow9, round-leaved fameflower10. Past patches that switch between Serpentine Pitch Pine-Oak Forest, Red Cedar-Pine Serpentine Shrubland, Serpentine Grassland and Serpentine Gravel-Forb Communities, we reached one the highest points of the trail, at about 480’ above sea level. It was covered by the Serpentine Gravel-Forb community, and the spot overlooked some of the agricultural properties next to the park, behind the other portions of the park. Here we saw a good number of the remains from the pitch-pine removal operation. From this point, we headed back towards the park entrance via the Doe and Fawn trails.

conclusion.

Despite being aware of the thrust fault and the contrast it produces between what exists between it, walking through the two conditions and witnessing the change was still striking. From the different quality of light penetration and the definitiveness of the edges, the contrast was stark. Another thing I found striking was how abruptly and how frequently the patches switch between plant communities in the Serpentine Barrens.

I wonder if these edges are heavily maintained, or how these patches were created in the first place--is the complexity of the geology to blame for the patchy diversity occurring across the park?

Nottingham County Park floodplain

floodplain forest red oak-mixed hardwood

ruins

D.

C. Black Run B.

A. Black Run A. red maple, japanese stiltgrass, low smartweed1 B. spicebush, autumn olive C. rosa multiflora4, red oak, black birch2 D. hay-scented fern, new york fern, christmas fern

G.

H.

F.

E. sensitive fern, umbrella magnolia F. black birch2 monoculture G. red oak, american beech H. sour gum11, hay-scented fern

E.

schist forest

serpentine forest

serpentine grassland

M. J. J. eastern red cedar, tree of heaven K. serpentine aster8, gray goldenrod7 L. dead pitch pine, common yarrow9, greenbriar6 M. little bluestem, purple girardia

K.

L.

33

Piedmont (1)

(6)

low smartweed

greenbrier

scientific name: Polygonum caespitosum. growth habit: forb/herb native status: non-native annual

(2)

scientific name: Smilax rotundifolia. growth habit: shrub/vine native status: native perennial

(7)

black birch

gray goldenrod

scientific name: Betila lenta. growth habit: tree native status: native perennial

(3)

scientific name: Solidago nemoralis. growth habit: forb/herb native status: native perennial

(8)

musclewood

serpentine aster

scientific name: Caprinus caroliniana. growth habit: shrub/tree native status: native perennial

(4)

scientific name:

(9)

multiflower rose

common yarrow

scientific name: Rosa multiflora. growth habit: subshrub/vine native status: non-native perennial

(5)

scientific name: Achillea millefolium. growth habit: forb/herb native status: (non)native perennial

(10)

southern arrowwood scientific name: Viburnum dentatum. growth habit: shrub/tree native status: native perennial

34

Symphyotrichum depauperatum.

growth habit: forb/herb native status: native perennial

round-leaved fameflower scientific name: Phemeranthus teretifolius. growth habit: forb/herb, subshrub native status: non-native perennial

Nottingham County Park (11)

sour gum

scientific name: Nyssa sylvatica growth habit: tree average height: 30 ft (20 years); 95 ft (mature) native status: native perennial invasive? no wetland indicator category: faculative wetland observed growing with: red oaks, red maple,

american beech, hay-scented fern observed growing conditions: fens, forest edges, forests, meadows, shores of rivers, swamps noted at these sties: IBSP, Cattus Island, Pine Barrens, Penn Campus, URR, Nottingham other notes: trunks often die from the top, 90-degree branch growth, scraggly crown

35

Piedmont | New England

Mariton Wildlife Sanctuary

Ringing Rocks County Park

36

Ringing Rocks + Mariton Wildlife Sanctuary

piedmont lowlands - gettysburg newark section + new england province - reading prong section|

sensing the stones

location(s): Ringing Rocks County Park + Mariton Wildlife Sanctuary, PA date: Tuesday , 16 October 2018 , 11:30-15:30 weather: mostly cloudy, 44°-62° F, 82%>59%

37

Piedmont | New England

senses stimulated.

On this trip we explored two sites with very rich geological past which deeply affects what the places are like today. First, in the Gettysburg-Newark Section of the Piedmont Lowlands, we visited Ringing Rocks County Park, where “the main attraction is a 4-acre expanse of jumbled boulders so thick that no plants grow among them.” These boulders are made up of diabase rock, which were apparently “formed in place through the break-up of a sheet of cooled magma dating from the early Jurassic.” The boulders are presumed to be the result of the diabase breakage from glacial activity.

Within the park is High Falls, where one can clearly see the layering of the diabase magma rock atop the Brunswick Formation.

On the second part of the day, we visited the Mariton Wildlife Sanctuary, a 200-acre preserve first established in the late 1960s. A good portion of the site is abandoned farmlands, and different types of plant communities are maintained there for wildlife in the foremost, as well as for educational functions. It is mainly supported by the Natural Lands Trust today.

The sanctuary is located in a completely different physiographic region from Ringing Rocks, despite being within 5 miles from each other: in the New England Province, Reading-Prong Section, the site is underlain by metamorphic rocks that “are resistant to erosion and form a highland characterized by rounded hills.”

The entire trip was stimulating to the senses, especially because of the contrasting qualities between the two sites. Not to mention that within each site are additional stark differences in composition and atmospheres throughout our hikes.

summary of trip.

modified map of mariton

38

11:00-12:30 After the plant quiz, we came upon the boulder field the park is known for, with a few families tapping on the rocks with hammers. Our first drawing session was to take place in the boulder field and everyone scattered across the rocks to find a drawing spot. As I traversed to find a good viewpoint, I whipped out a fork from my backpack and tapped the boulders, hearing slightly different tones of ringing from different rocks. We spent about an hour both drawing and having lunch at the spot, listening to the ringing rocks throughout.

12:30-13:00 We then crossed the boulder field onto the forest trail. On the footpath as well as throughout the forest grounds, diabase rocks were scattered. The soles of my feet struggled as the ground I stepped on varied wildly in texture due to the rock, which gradually became more wet as we continued east. Going higher up in elevation, we hiked through a mostly deciduous forest with white6 and red oaks (Quercus alba, rubra), red and sugar maples7 (Acer rubrum, saccharum), black birch (Betula lenta), American beech (Fagus grandifolia),

tuliptree10, and dying Eastern hemlock (Tsuga canadensis) in the canopy and subcanopy; spicebush4, Japanese barberry (Berberis thunbergii), witch hazel3 in the shrub layer; Christmas fern1 and poison ivy2 in layers below.

The climax of the hike occurs in the midpoint between the boulder field and the eastern edge of the park—at High Falls.

13:00-14:00 Deciding to do our next drawing exercise at the falls, a few of us decided to climb down to the foot of the waterfall for a frontal view of the cascade and the exposed layering geology. I decided to use watercolor as my medium for this drawing exercise to capture the wet feel of the place. When I took out my bottle to use for painting, and then for drinking, I think my water tasted a bit fresher by virtue of being so close to this feature. When we finished the exercise, we briefly took note of some of the species growing near the waterfall: bluestem goldenrod (Solidago caesia), wild hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens) and young sugar maple. At around 2 pm, we scurried to the other end of the trail onto the bus to drive to the Mariton Wildlife Sanctuary.

14:30-16:00 Before hitting the trails, we stopped at the Nature Center to talk to a couple of staff members responsible for the maintenance of the preserve. They mentioned the effects Hurricane Sandy had on the site, that there were more than 500 trees knocked down by the storm (most of them tuliptrees) and that they decided that the best course of action was the removal of the downed trees and selling them as lumber, some used as construction materials for the Nature Center cabin. In 30 minutes, we set off onto the Woods and Spruce Trails, which consisted of climbing a steep 150’ elevation difference to get to the conifer plantations in the middle of the site. Something that stood out to me was the sheer amount of shrub cover which was dominated by spicebush for much of the incline—it gave the trail a generally sweet smell.

The conifer plantations are mowed annually every March (because it’s the best time of the year in which disturbance to wildlife would be the least impactful) to preserve its status as a meadow. Some of the vegetation we found there are young tuliptree, sassafras and black cherry (Prunus serotina), common milkweed9, indian grass(Sorghastrum nutans), big and little5 bluestems (Andropogon gerardii, and Schizachyrium scoparium), and some meadow goldenrod (Solidago sp.).

conclusion.

Unlike other sites we’ve visited before, this trip’s sites had a broad range of different plant communities and growing conditions over a small span of space—not to mention the rich variety of geological makeup right on and below the surface. This lends to a pretty biodiverse landscape and dramatic edge conditions, which in turn provided us diverse and stimulating sensory experiences for every quarter mile we hiked.

Ringing Rocks + Mariton Wildlife Sanctuary

forest

boulder field

D. C. A.

B.

A. hawthorn, american beech B. red oak, red maple C. black birch D. diabase boulders

H.

E.

F.

G.

E. young sugar maple7 F. bluestem goldenrod G. tulip tree10 H. dying/downed eastern hemlock

forest

meadow

M. L. K.

J.

J. tuliptree10, red oak, sassafras, spicebush4 K. purple love grass, meadow goldenrod, indiangrass, milkweed9 L. tuliptree shrubs, sassafras shrubs M. persimmon

39

Piedmont | New England (1)

(6)

christmas ferm

white oak

scientific name: Polystichum acrostichoides. growth habit: forb/herb native status: native perennial

(2)

scientific name: Quercus alba. growth habit: tree native status: native perennial

(7)

poison ivy

sugar maple

scientific name: Toxicodendron radicans. growth habit: forb/herb; shrub; vine native status: native perennial

(3)

scientific name: Acer saccharum. growth habit: tree native status: native perennial

(8)

witch hazel

blue aster

scientific name: Hamamelis virginiana. growth habit: shrub; tree native status: native perennial

(4)

scientific name: Symphyotrichum cordifolium. growth habit: forb/herb native status: native perennial

(9)

spicebush

common milkweed

scientific name: Lindera benzoin. growth habit: shrub; tree native status: native perennial

(5)

(10)

little bluestem

scientific name: Schizachyrium scoparium. growth habit: graminoid native status: native perennial

40

scientific name: Asclepias syriaca. growth habit: forb/herb native status: native perennial

tuliptree

scientific name: Liriodendron tulipifera. growth habit: tree native status: native perennial

Ringing Rocks + Mariton Wildlife Sanctuary

41

Valley & Ridge

Hawk Mountain Sanctuary

42

Hawk Mountain Sanctuary

raptors of the ridge

valley & ridge province, great valley section | location: Hawk Mountain Sanctuary, Kempton, Pennsylvania date: Tuesday, 23 October 2018, 11:00-16:00 weather: sunny, 59-64°F, 39% humidity

43

Valley & Ridge

valley and ridge.

modified photo of raptor infrographic on site

As “the world’s largest member-supported raptor conservation organization,” Hawk Mountain Sanctuary is visited by scientific researchers, schools, conservation trainees, ecotourism, and most importantly, birds of prey. The place was founded as a sanctuary in 1934, and has been observed as a major breeding and wintering habitat for these birds, what with more than 200 species documented since its founding, more than 60 species nesting regularly, and about 150 different species pass through the site during migration. In the human side of things, Hawk Mountain is home to the Acopian Center for Conservational Learning, attracting trainees and graduate students from around the world to study here.

It’s also extensively a tourist destination, complete with a visitor center, a native plant garden, scenic overlooks of the Appalachian, and miles of trail within the 2,600 acres of the site. The site lies within the Valley and Ridge Province, and the plant communities seen there are various terrestrial forests and shrublands both on the ridge and in the valley. For our trip, I took note of the different benches I’d come across throughout our hike down and up the ridge, finding some unconventional benches dedicated to watching the birds, some conventional benches scattered on the ridge trails, and some makeshift benches for resting while watching the birds.

summary of trip.

2. single bench with name inscription

4. bench at the trail fork

44

11:30-12:20 The first spot we stopped at was the South Lookout (bench #1) where we talked to an intern from Georgia about the processes of raptor census, as well as his own research and how this region compares to what he’s used to. After the chat, we set up to draw, our subject being the rolling mountain range beyond the ridge.

12:20-12:40 When we finished the drawing exercise, we set off onto the Lookout Trail and stopped at each overlook, trying to figure out what we ought to map on our trail guides; I decided to map seating, as I observed the different types of objects subjected to people’s bottoms. The first overlook we stopped at was the Appalachian Overlook, a designated scramble of rocks where people could have a good vantage point over the mountain range. Shortly after the overlook, I came across a few different type of benches: #2, small, 2-person wood benches with names engraved on them, and #3, wood benches without names, but more seating capacity. The trail on which these benches are is surrounded by a dry oak-heath forests with species such as: red10 and chestnut4 oaks, sourgum (Nyssa sylvatica), black birch (Betula lenta) and white pine (Pinus strobus) in the higher layers; mountain laurel (Kalmia latifolia), raspberry (Rubus sp), largeleaf holly1 and moosewood (Acer pensylvanicum) in the shrub layer; teaberry8, wild sarsaparilla2 and hay-scented fern9 below.

12:40-13:40 At this point we’ve passed the two trails the Sunset Overlook intersects and we hit a suddenly steep incline. Before that I spotted one of the wood benches (#5). The ascent was so steep, that management decided to build a stair up to the point where the entry to the Slide and Sunset Overlook crossed. On the landing of these steps was another wood bench (#6). Our group checked out the Sunset Overlook first, which consisted of a tall scramble of boulders. Then we went to the Slide, which was flatter, and had plaques about the history of the place. In the middle of the flattened floor, there was a tree trunk with its top sanded so smooth, I assumed it’s meant for sitting (#7). There were a few plant species that gathered here which we didn’t notice in the trail before this point, including: healthy Eastern hemlock3 and yellow birch (Betula alleghaniesis) in the canopy; great rosebay6 and witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) in the layers below.

13:20-13:40 After the Slide, we set off to the North Lookout. On the path there, I first ran into a couple of benches(#8)--the last we saw of that type on our trek.

A few feet after these benches was a visually striking set of stairs that zig-zagged up a 20’ incline. Then we were greeted by a timid crowd of people with telescopes, scattered across the boulders, hollering when they spot birds at the North Lookout. This was where we had lunch, noting some of the plant species that grew on this rocky peak: mountain ash (Sorbus americana), mountain holly5, and rosebay.

13:40-15:40 We then continued to an intense descent to the River of Rocks. We’ve switched to the Skyline Trail at this point. As we waited to regroup, a few of us sat on some of the flat-topped boulders scattered throughout the trail (#10). Then we made it to the River of Rocks, which I classified as bench #11, since it’s essentially a scramble of unconventional benches.

From the North Lookout at the highest elevation, to the River of Rocks to the lowest, and back up to the South Lookout, the hike took us about two hours to complete.

conclusion.

Upon having trekked some of the highest points and lowest points of Hawk Mountain Sanctuary, checking each of the overlooks, talking to one of the trainees, and visiting each spot on their trail guide, the sanctuary is exactly what it advertises to be: a multi-layered region for different creatures and various activities. We were able to observe birds of prey on their migration, we got to experience the different atmospheres of the mountain range, and we learned about the academics side of the site. Its rich social, ecological and geological history makes the site today such a colorful place that we saw on our trip. Whenever I stopped and sat on one of these benches to think about it, the place became more fascinating and deep.

Hawk Mountain Sanctuary

5. Zig-zag stair landing bench.

7. Stump at the Slide.

8. A few benches along trail.

10. Boulders for benches.

45

Valley & Ridge (1)

(6)

largeleaf holly

great laurel/rosebay

scientific name: Ilex montana. growth habit: shrub/tree native status: native perennial

(2)

scientific name: Rhododendron maximum. growth habit: shrub; tree native status: natuve perennial

(7)

wild sarsaparilla

red maple

scientific name: Aralia nudicaulis. growth habit: forb/herb; subshrub native status: native perennial

(3)

scientific name: Acer rubrum. growth habit: tree native status: native perennial

(8)

eastern hemlock

eastern teaberry

scientific name: Tsuga canadensis. growth habit: tree native status: native perennial

(4)

scientific name: Gaultheria procumbens. growth habit: shrub/subshrub native status: native perennial

(9)

chestnut oak

hay-scented fern

scientific name: Quercus montana. growth habit: tree native status: native perennial

(5)

(10)

mountain holly

scientific name: Ilex mucronata. growth habit: shrub;tree native status: native perennial

46

scientific name: Dennstaedtia punctilobula. growth habit: forb/herb native status: native perennial

red oak

scientific name: Quercus rubra. growth habit: tree native status: native perennial

Hawk Mountain Sanctuary

47

index

Acer negundo, 28 report, 26 section, 27 palmatum, 20 report, 18 pensylvanicum report, 44 platanoides, 28 report, 26 section, 27 rubrum var. trilobum report, 12 section, 13 rubrum, 46 report, 6, 32, 38 section, 7, 33, 39 saccharum, 40 report, 38 section, 39 Achillea millesfolium, 34 report, 32 section, 33 Aesculus hippocastanum report, 18 section, 19 allegheny serviceberry, 20 section, 19 Amelanchier canadensis report, 6 section, 7 laevis, 20 section, 19 american beachgrass, 8 report, 6 section, 7 american beech, 28 report, 32, 38 section, 33, 39 American cranberry report, 12 section, 13 american elm, 28 report, 26 section, 27 Ammophila breviligulata, 8 report, 6 section, 7 amur honeysuckle report, 26 section, 27 Andropogon gerardii report, 38 section, 27 Aralia elata, 28 report, 26 section, 27 nudicaulis, 46 report, 44 Aronia arbutifolia report, 12 Asclepias syriaca, 40 report, 38 section, 39 ash Baror’s report, 18 section, 19 48

mountain report, 44 white, 28 report, 26 section, 27 aster blue, 40 salt marsh report, 6 serpentine, 34 report, 32 section, 33 autumn olive report, 32 section, 33 bald cypress section, 19 bayberry report, 6, 26 section, 7, 27 beach plum, 8 report, 6 section, 7 Berberis thunbergii report, 38 Betula alleghaniesis report, 44 lenta, 34 report, 32, 38, 44 section, 33, 39 populifolia report, 12 section, 13 big bluestem report, 38 section, 27 birch black, 34 report, 32, 38, 44 section, 33, 39 grey birch report, 12 section, 13 yellow report, 44 bitternut hickory report, 18 bittersweet vine report, 6 black eyed susan, 20 black grass report, 6 black huckleberry, 14 report, 12 section, 13 blueberry highbush report, 6, 12 section, 7, 13 lowbush, 14 report, 12 section, 13 bog cranberry report, 12 boxelder, 28 report, 26 section, 27 burning bush

report, 26 section, 27 button weed report, 6 Cakile edentula, 8 report, 6 section, 7 Caprinus caroliniana, 34 report, 32 section, 33 Carex kobomugi, 8 report, 6 section, 7 laxiculmis report, 18 section, 19 typhina report, 6 section, 7 Carya cordiforris report, 18 Catalpa sp, 28 report, 26 section, 27 cedar atlantic white, 14 report, 6, 12 section, 7, 13 deodar report, 18 section, 19 eastern red report, 6 Cedarus deodar report, 18 section, 19 Celastrus orbiculatus report, 6 Chamaecyparis thyoides, 14 report, 6, 12 section, 7, 13 Chamaesyce polygonifolia, 8 report, 6 section, 7 cherry black cherry, 28 report, 6, 26, 38 section, 7, 27 cherry laurel report, 18 section, 19 sweet report, 26 section, 27 Clethra alnifolia, 14 report, 12 section, 13 cockspur hawthorn section, 39 common reed report, 6, 26 section, 7, 27 crabapple report, 26 section, 27 crapemyrtle, 20 report, 18 Crataegus crus-galli section, 39

Dennstaedtia punctilobula, 46 report, 32, 44 section, 33 Diodia teres report, 6 Diospyros virginiana section, 39 Distichlis spicata report, 6 Dryopteris marginalis, 20 dune primary report, 6 section, 7 secondary report, 6 section, 7 eastern hemlock, 46 report, 38, 44 section, 39 eastern teaberry, 46 report, 13, 44 Elaegnus umbellata report, 32 section, 33 English yew report, 18 section, 19 Eragrostis spectabilis section, 39 Euonymus alatus report, 26 section, 27 Fagus grandifolia, 28 report, 32, 38 section, 33, 39 fameflower, 34 report, 32 section, 33 fern Christmas, 40 report, 32, 38 section, 33 cinnamon report, 12 section, 13 hay-scented, 46 report, 32, 44 section, 33 marginal wood, 20 New York report, 32 section, 33 royal report, 12 section, 13 virginia chain, 14 report, 12 section, 13 fetterbush, 14 report, 12 section, 13 forest maritime report, 6 section, 7 upland, oak-pine report, 12 section, 13 lowland, pitch pine

index

forest, cont’d lowland, pitch pine report, 12 section, 13 successional report, 12 floodplain report, 32, 38 section, 33, 39 hardwood, red oak-mixed report, 32, 38 section, 33, 39 serpentine, pitch pine-oak report, 32 section, 33 dry oak-heath report, 26, 44 section, 27 Fraxinus americana, 28 report, 26 section, 27 varoniana report, 18 section, 19 Gaultheria procumbens, 46 report, 13, 44 Gaylussacia baccata, 14 report, 12 section, 13 glasswort, 8 report, 6 goldenrod bluestem report, 38 section, 39 gray, 34 report, 32 section, 33 meadow report, 38 section, 39 seaside, 8 report, 6 section, 7 grassland serpentine report, 32 section, 33 meadow report, 26, 32, 38 section, 27, 33 gravel-forb serpentine report, 32 section, 33 great rosebay, 46 report, 44 greenbrier, 34 report, 6, 12, 32 section, 13 Hamamelis virginiana, 40 report, 38, 44 holly american, 8 report, 6 section, 7, 27 largeleaf, 46 report, 44 mountain, 46

report, 44 winterberry, 14 report, 12 section, 7, 13 horse chestnut report, 18 section, 19 Humulus japonicus report, 32 section, 33 Hydrangea arborescens, 20 report, 18, 38 section, 19 Ilex montana, 46 report, 44 mucronata, 46 report, 44 opaca, 8 report, 6 section, 7, 27 verticillata, 14 report, 12 section, 7, 13 indiangrass report, 38 section, 27, 39 Iva frutescens, 9 report, 6 section, 7 Japanese angelica tree, 28 report, 26 section, 27 Japanese barberry report, 38 Japanese hops report, 32 section, 33 Japanese stiltgrass report, 32 section, 33 Jasminum nudiflorum, 20 report, 18 Juncus gerardii report, 6 Juniperus virginiana report, 6 Kalmia angustifolia report, 12 section, 13 latifolia, 20 report, 44 section, 13 Ladonia santensis report, 12 Lagerstroemia indica, 20 report, 18 laurel cherry report, 18 section, 19 sheep report, 12 section, 13 mountain, 20 report, 44 section, 13 Leucothoe racemosa, 14 report, 12

section, 13 Ligustrum, 29 Limonium carolinianum report, 6 Lindera benzoin, 40 report, 32, 38 section, 33, 39 Liriodendron tulipifera, 40 report, 38 section, 39 little bluestem, 40 report, 38 london plane tree section, 19 Lonicera maackii report, 26 section, 27 low smartweed, 34 report, 32 section, 33 Lyonia ligustrina report, 12 section, 13 mariana, 14 report, 12 section, 7, 13 Magnolia virginiana, 20 report, 6, 12, 20 section, 7, 13, 19 maleberry report, 12 section, 13 Malus sp report, 26 section, 27 maple Japanese, 20 report, 18 Norway, 28 report, 26 section, 27 red, 46 report, 6, 32, 38 section, 7, 33, 39 sugar, 40 report, 38 section, 39 trident red maple report, 12 section, 13 marsh common reed report, 26 section, 27 freshwater report, 6 section, 7 salt report, 6 tidal report, 6 marsh elder, 9 report, 6 section, 7 Microstegium vimineum report, 32 section, 33 milkweed, 40 report, 38

section, 39 moosewood report, 44 Morus alba section, 27 multiflower rose, 34 report, 26, 32 section, 27, 33 musclewood, 34 report, 32 section, 33 Myrica pensylvanica report, 6, 26 section, 7, 27 Nyssa sylvatica, 35 report, 6, 12, 32, 44 section, 7, 13, 33 oak blackjack report, 32 section, 13, 33 chestnut, 46 report, 44 eastern black, 15 report, 12 section, 13 pin report, 12 post report, 12, 32 section, 13, 33 red, 46 report, 18, 32, 38, 44 section, 19, 33, 39 southern red report, 6 swamp white, 20 report, 18 section, 19 white, 40 report, 38 willow, 21 report, 6, 20 section, 19 Opuntia humifusa, 8 report, 6 section, 7 Osmunda cinnamomea report, 12 section, 13 regalis report, 12 section, 13 Parthenocissus quinquefolia, 8 report, 6 section, 7 persimmon section, 39 Phemeranthus teretifolius, 34 report, 32 section, 33 Phragmites australis report, 6, 26 section, 7, 27 Phytolacca americana, 28 report, 26 section, 27 pine pitch, 14 49

index

pine pitch, 14 report, 6, 12, 32 section, 7, 13, 33 shortleaf, 14 report, 12 section, 13 white report, 44 Pinus echinata, 14 report, 12 section, 13 rigida, 14 report, 6, 12, 32 section, 7, 13, 33 strobus report, 44 Platanus xhispanica section, 19 poison ivy, 40 report, 6, 38 section, 7 pokeweed, 28 report, 26 section, 27 Polygonum caespitosum, 34 report, 32 section, 33 Polystichum acrostichoides, 40 report, 32, 38 section, 33 prickly pear cactus, 8 report, 6 section, 7 privet, 29 Prunus avium report, 26 section, 27 laurocerasus report, 18 section, 19 maritimia, 8 report, 6 section, 7 serotina, 28 report, 6, 26, 38 section, 7, 27 purple lovegrass section, 39 Quercus alba, 40 report, 38 bicolor, 20 report, 18 section, 19 falcata report, 6 marilandica report, 32 section, 13, 33 montana, 46 report, 44

50

palustris report, 12 phellos, 21 report, 6, 20 section, 19 rubra, 46 report, 18, 32, 38, 44 section, 19, 33, 39 stellata report, 12, 32 section, 13, 33 velutina, 15 report, 12 section, 13 raspberry report, 44 red chokeberry report, 12 Rhododendron maximum, 46 report, 44 viscosum report, 12 section, 13 Rhus copallina report, 6, 12, 32 section, 7, 13, 33 Rosa multiflora, 34 report, 26, 32 section, 27, 33 Rubus phoenicolasius, 28 report, 26 section, 27 sp. report, 44 Rudbeckia hirta, 20 Salicornia sp, 8 report, 6 salt hay report, 6 saltgrass report, 6 santee lichen report, 12 Sassafras albidum report, 6, 38 section, 39 Schizachyrium scoparium, 40 report, 38 sea lavender report, 6 sea rocket, 8 report, 6 section, 7 seaside spurge, 8 report, 6 section, 7 sedge cattail sedge report, 6 section, 7 creeping sedge report, 18

section, 19 Japanese, 8 report, 6 section, 7 shadbush report, 6 section, 7 shrubland report, 32, 44 Smilax rotundifolia, 34 report, 6, 12, 32 section, 13 Solidago caesia report, 38 section, 39 nemoralis, 34 report, 32 section, 33 sempervirens, 8 report, 6 section, 7 sp report, 38 section, 39 Sorbus americana report, 44 Sorghastrum nutans report, 38 section, 27, 39 sourgum, 35 report, 6, 12, 32, 44 section, 7, 13, 33 southern arrowwood, 34 Spartina patens report, 6 spicebush, 40 report, 32, 38 section, 33, 39 spikegrass report, 6 staggerbush, 14 report, 12 section, 7, 13 swamp hardwood report, 6, 12 section, 13 atlantic white cedar report, 6, 12 section, 13 swamp azalea report, 12 section, 13 sweet pepperbush, 14 report, 12 section, 13 sweetbay magnolia, 20 report, 6, 12, 20 section, 7, 13, 19 Symphyotrichum cordifolium, 40 depauperatum, 34 report, 32

section, 33 tenuifolium report, 6 Taxodium distichum section, 19 Taxus baccata report, 18 section, 19 Thelypteris noveboracensis report, 32 section, 33 thicket report, 6 section, 7 Toxicodendron radicans, 40 report, 6, 38 section, 7 Tsuga canadensis, 46 report, 38, 44 section, 39 tuliptree, 40 report, 38 section, 39 Ulmus americana, 28 report, 26 section, 27 Vaccinium corymbosum report, 6, 12 section, 7, 13 macrocarpon report, 12 section, 13 pallidum, 14 report, 12 section, 13 Viburnum dentatum, 34 virginia creeper, 8 report, 6 section, 7 white mulberry section, 27 wild hydrangea, 20 report, 18, 38 section, 19 wild sarsaparilla, 46 report, 44 wineberry, 28 report, 26 section, 27 winged sumac report, 6, 12, 32 section, 7, 13, 33 winter jasmine, 20 report, 18 witch hazel, 40 report, 38, 44 Woodwardia virginica, 14 report, 12 section, 13 yarrow, 34 report, 32 section, 33

index

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