Dossier cuir septembre

S E P T E MBE R 2 0 15

PA R IS M ON T H LY C I T YGU I DE

Issue N o 260

速

A NEW

Season Paris Takes a Peek

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WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

PRECIOUS LEATHERS From Africa to Paris

By Estelle Arielle Bouchet

T

his year Klein Karoo International launches eight emblematic and

idiomatic and round elegance evokes both voluptuousness and arrogance at once. Trunks

International Company, come the finest ostrich leather and feathers. These products are then

gorgeous collections that pay

of cognac-coloured pearled leather delicately

supplied to top level luxury brands that use

homage to the African landscapes

placed in a sleek sedan by a meticulous

them to create high quality bags, exceptional

and they can be discovered and admired at the HCP (Hermès Cuirs Précieux)

butler, accessories for a glass dressing table, a clutch bag decorated with a bejewelled clasp,

clothes, unusual and very stylish accessories such as the emblematic Birkin tote in ostrich

stand during the fairs of Lineapelle in Milan and

polished nails.

An entire Art Deco universe unfolds before

leather from Hermès, a must-have accessory

our eyes, mesmerised by this confined and

with a vintage version driving prices to as

with perhaps the association with this bird bringing us back to the dawn of time. In

powdery space, which is so modern and stylish.

Ostrich leather in itself is already a pointillist

much as $100,000 dollars.

Other luxurious items made from the

ancient Egypt the ostrich was greatly valued

painting, at times with nubuck nuances, at

exceptional leather include Louis Vuitton’s The

for its feathers, which were used as a unit

times a matt effect, at other times shining on

Majestueux PM, which marries exceptional

of measurement. When a person died, their

its raised edges. It is a small symbolic relief

ostrich skin with the emblematic LV

heart was weighed against an ostrich feather to determine the soul’s passage to the

equivalent to the placement of a fluffy feather that came to warm the cold winters of Moulin

monogram, resulting in a masterpiece of refinement with ostrich, lizard and grosgrain

underworld. This bird, often represented in

Rouge dancers or to enliven the adventures of

tangerine leather. Tom Ford also offers an

Pharaonic frescoes, embodies the concepts of

a Rio Carnival in an explosion of colours. The

extremely feminine nude leather pump in

justice and truth.

Many centuries later, in the 1930s, ostrich leather became testimony of the sophistication

ostrich, its skin, feathers, eggs, represent an

ostrich, creating a Great Gatsby-inspired shoe.

entire universe, a state of mind.

From the breeding farms of Klein Karoo a

Luxury timepieces also work with the leather with Baume & Mercier vintage watches putting

of Parisian women. Blonde, sensual figures

lush green region far to the northeast of Cape

in a Tamara Lempicka painting, whose

Town, that gave its name to the Klein Karoo

forward a refined ostrich leather bracelet. www.kleinkaroo.com

Première Vision Leather in Paris.

Ostrich leather has always made us dream

24 W HE RE PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 20 15

for the most refined and sophisticated women

WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

CONCERIA DELUXE PREMIERE VISION LEATHER

ITALTESSIL PREMIERE VISION LEATHER

HARMANLI DERI PREMIERE VISION LEATHER

F.LLI MORELLI PREMIERE VISION LEATHER

ERDOGAN DERI PREMIERE VISION LEATHER

CUIR DE LAGNY PREMIERE VISION LEATHER

MYMANTRA PREMIERE VISION LEATHER

EXPOPEL PREMIERE VISION LEATHER

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WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

Interview with Marc Brunel THE DIRECTOR OF PREMIERE VISION LEATHER, THE GLOBAL LEATHER TRADESHOW

By Estelle Arielle Bouchet

Could you define the DNA of the French

dividends. The show has been particularly

I’m thinking of one of your ‘Leathers of

show and give us recent figures for Première Vision Leather, to help us distinguish it

dynamic in recent years. Exhibitors and visitors appreciate it for the clarity and positioning of

the Future’ exhibitors who illustrate the technical aspects of leather as a material.

from the Italian show and have a clearer

its product range, which has proven to be a

Could you tell us more about the Creation

understanding of the interactions?

very efficient tool for discovering collections.

Première Vision Leather, like all the Première

The show’s development within the

Vision Paris shows, is at the service of an international manufacturing industry that

Première Vision group mirrors the increased importance of leather in the

produces quality, specialist high-added-value

strategy of fashion labels over the last

Vision Leather has worked hard

products. In this context, joining forces with

fifteen years.

to renew and enrich its fashion

actions implemented in these areas?

For a number of seasons, Première

sector shows, and maintaining a timetable and product focus that is completely in line

You pay great attention to creation with the emblematic Trends Gallery

information, both in terms of form and substance. On our website, social networks and the mobile application,

with the players of an industry positioned

and the forum Incube, as well as

useful information is available to help

on the luxury and premium sectors, has paid

highlighting innovation in leather.

with the preparation of collections. There

Première Vision’s other upstream fashion

26 W HE RE PA R I S I S E P T E M B E R 2 01 5

Main photo © Première Vision SA / Taneka

and Innovation aspects of this international show and describe the

WHERE PARIS PROMOTION

is also news about the sector beyond the show,

show, has proven to be particularly dynamic

with trend-setting subjects or in-depth articles

in recent years and all indicators suggest that

on materials. This allows visitors and exhibitors to get the information they need “just in time”,

Europe has a key role to play with the arrival of new emerging countries and potential

according to their requirements, their sector of

consumers of high added value goods in Asia

activity and the products they make. A taster

and Latin America, in countries such as Mexico,

of the season’s high points is now available on

Indonesia, Thailand and Korea. Consumption

our website, www.premierevision.com For the fashion information and material

would appear to be growing in countries that were traditionally large consumers of

forums, the show offers more experimental

luxury goods, notably in the United States, a

areas centred around the sensory experience

little less so in Japan. The big luxury groups

and with a renewed approach to visitors. In

have correctly read these trends, taking new

September, more than 770m² will be dedicated to material trends with the two forums, the Trends Gallery and Incube.

market shares to counterbalance the lower performances in countries experiencing a recession; their success is based on finding the

What are your objectives for the future, in a

right balance between these various zones. The

challenging European context and in light of the growing demand for quality leathers in

future looks bright for the European tannery industry as long as it continues to stand out for

the home furnishings sector?

its high quality and very creative products.

The European tannery industry is closely linked to the luxury sector and a manufacturing

Première Vision Leather

tradition that produces quality items. The leather goods sector, the biggest sector at the

15-17 September www.premierevision.com

G. Lancelot - Bespoke leather goods THE VERY FIRST STEP OF A G. LANCELOT BESPOKE ORDER IS A DISCUSSION BETWEEN YOU AND GUILLAUME, CREATOR AND DESIGNER OF THE BRAND “What exactly do you need? How would you use it? What is your private/professional

By appointment only www.g-lancelot.com / enquiries@g-lancelot.com

environment like? Do you want something eye-catching or more discreet?”

As you discuss, the paper becomes filled with sketches and annotations. You may not have noticed, but you (and him) have just started creating your much-desired handbag, briefcase or 48h travel bag. You will then experience the dance of colours, textures and patterns of leather in your hands. From elegant calfskin to exclusive Porosus Crocodile and ostrich, or extremely rare Carpincho, the choice will be yours. You can also personalise your design with your own bespoke key-lock, bamboo handle, or 22 carat gold hot stamping. Just ask and Guillaume and his Paris-based experienced craftsmen will create it. Believe it or not, all this just happened in your living room or hotel suite. Indeed, Guillaume travels to his clients rather than asking them to come to him. That is another level of customer service. And it is good to know that G. Lancelot also offers a small made to order collection that fulfils the same quality requirements as bespoke orders.

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