PLACES Down to the Bones

DOWN TO THE BARE BONES

Located in Faro, we explore the church of the Venerável Ordem Terceira de Nossa Senhora do Carmo, or the Venerable Third Order of Our Lady of Carmo. The facade dates back to 1747 and is the work of master stonemason, Diogo Tavares e Ataíde. The inside of the church is adorned with exceptional wood carvings and sculptures. The eight handcrafted figures depicting the Passion of Christ are perfect. The panelled wooden ceilings are also a unique feature. While all of this is certainly impressive, the real curiosity, what drew us here and why thousands of people from around the world come to this particular church, can be found as you enter the courtyard… the Bone Chapel. The Chapel is the final resting place of over 1250 skeletons. Skulls and bones fill and line the entire inside of the Chapel. Chestnut and maple wood from Monchique were used to define and highlight the geometry. The bodies belonged to Carmelite monks and were taken from overfilled cemeteries in Faro. The bodies were exhumed in 1816

after a lifelong service to the Carmo Church. They form an integral and oddly decorative part of the Capela dos Ossos (The Chapel of Bones). The purpose of such Chapels of Bones is said to 'emphasise the brevity of human existence and the need to live a good life to avoid the eternity of hell'. A more practical purpose may have been to free up space in the cemeteries! The sounds of children in a nearby elementary school reiterates the cycle of the human condition. An inscription over the entrance reads: "Stop here and consider the fate that will befall you." The entrance to the chapel is to the right of the main altar and a small admission charge of 2 Euro is levied. The Capela dos Ossos in Faro is open on weekdays from 10 am-12.30 pm and 2-5 pm.