Eat Drink Mississippi April May 2014

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI APRIL/MAY 2014

Spring Luncheon

DUTCH OVEN COOKING

SWEET & SAVORY JAMS CHOCOLATE CHIP BREAD PUDDING

page 44

$

4.95

www.eatdrinkmississippi.com

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 1

presents

WHEN & WHERE

April 5, 2014, Renaissance at Colony Park, Ridgeland, MS VIP TASTING 6:30 PM – 7:30 PM, $125 in advance (includes Grand Tasting) GRAND TASTING 7:30 PM – 10:00 PM, $80 in advance, $90 at the door

TICKETS AVAILABLE AT SANTESOUTH.COM BENEFITTING THE

MISSISSIPPI CHAPTER

2 APRIL/MAY 2014

2014 OFFICIAL EVENT OF

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

•

VOLUME 3 • NUMBER 3

2014

APRIL/MAY

36

78 “A balanced diet is a cookie in each hand.”

• Author Unknown •

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 3

Express

Yourself

Collect. Create. Celebrate. In Ridgeland, the masterpieces are yours in an array of galleries, the Mississippi Craft Center, the state’s premier shopping centers and the great outdoors.

With an abundance of attractions and events, more than 1,600 quality hotel rooms and over 140 great restaurants, Ridgeland is the perfect stop for travelers seeking the arts – whether it be culinary, craft, fine art or just nature’s creations.

Enjoy the Art of It All...in Ridgeland.

Natchez Trace Century Ride • May 3, 2014 Dragon Boat Regatta • May 17, 2014 Heatwave Classic Triathlon • June 7, 2014

800-468-6078 www.visitridgeland.com

4 APRIL/MAY 2014

CONTENTS 17

14 RAISE YOUR GLASS Smoking Hot Cocktails

16 SWEET TRADITION Greenwood Sugar Egg Artist Passes Sweet Tradition Along

24 FEATURED FESTIVAL Santé South Wine Festival

28 MEET BISCUIT THE HAPPY DUTCH OVEN COOK Clinton Resident Receives Great Joy From Campfire Black Pot Cooking

34 MISSISSIPPI MADE Flathau's Fine Foods

36 LET'S JAM Jam Are More Than Just for Morning Toast

40 COMMUNITY Foot Print Farms

54 DREAM KITCHEN A Comfortable Kitchen in Columbus

32

58 IN THE BLOGLIGHT Kasia's Kitchen

63

82

60 FROM MISSISSIPPI TO BEYOND Brett Gauthier Designs Dessert Delicacies New Orleans Style

63 FROM THE BOOKSHELF Cooking From the Heart

64 WHAT'S HOT Kale

66 THE HILLS Harmon's in Paris

70 THE DELTA The Warehouse, Hey Joe's, Mosquito Burrito in Cleveland

74 THE PINES Restaurant Tyler in Starkville

IN EVERY ISSUE 6 From the Editor 8 From Our Readers 12 Fabulous Foodie Finds 22 Deep South Dish 86 Events 88 Coming to Terms Recipe/Ad Index 90 Till We Eat Again

78 CAPITAL/RIVER Chucklet & Honey in Flowood

82 COASTAL Vestige in Ocean Springs

ON THE COVER: Hand-rolled biscuits are a perfect addition to a spring luncheon. See page 44. Recipe by Janette Tibbetts.

Photo by Suzanne Carey Photography. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 5

{ from the editor }

T

here has been a lot of excitement on the Mississippi culinary scene recently.

The recently opened Whole Foods Market in Jackson has many touches of Mississippi throughout. Be sure to look for our magazine when you visit the store.

Many new restaurants have opened across the state, with more openings on the horizon. Local chefs have been named semifinalists for James Beard Foundation awards. The event creating the biggest buzz has been the opening of Mississippi's first Whole Foods Market in Jackson. Around 2,000 eager customers signed up to get a sneak preview tour of the store on the weekend before its grand opening. Their donations comprised a $10,000 gift for the Mississippi Children's Museum. Whole Foods is committed to supporting the community and has gotten off to a great start doing just that. If you visit the store, be sure to look for the tags denoting local products, buy one, and help support our local economy even more.

We have exciting news ourselves. In addition to our Monticello office, we recently established an office in Highland Village in Jackson. We would love to meet you, so if you're in the area, feel free to drop by to see if we're in.

The arrival of spring means fresh produce will soon be in abundance at local markets. On page 36, Contributor Lisa Bynum shares delicious recipes for sweet and savory jams that will put that fresh produce to good use.

I love Easter and have sweet memories of family Easter Sunday lunches throughout the years. Sometimes it's just my immediate family, but many times it's the entire Thurman clan, which can add up to as many as 50 in number.

There's always an overabundance of food, plus lots of fellowship and laughter. Contributor Janette Tibbetts shares her memories of Easters gone by beginning on page 44.

Memories of her mother's meals inspired her heirloom menu that's perfect for a spring luncheon. The Sandbank, a Beatrix Collection, in Hattiesburg provided the perfect setting for the photo shoot. The meal was then served to the deserving docents at the museum.

We'd love to hear from you. If you have a special food memory or family recipe, let us know about it. If you have a great story idea, we want to hear about that, too.

Until next time, let's eat! edm

J.J. Carney Janette Tibbetts, center, prepared her spring luncheon menu for the docents at The Sandbank.

the glory of God.” q “So whether you eat or drink or whatever you do, do it all for 1 Corinthians 10:31 r 6 APRIL/MAY 2014

Ocean Spr f o e in t s a 6th ANNUAL

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The event will include tastings from area restaurants in an outdoor setting with white lights and light music.

reek Fish House

Thursday, May 15, 2014 6:30-8:30 p.m.

L&N Depot Plaza 1000 Washington Ave. Downtown Ocean Springs, MS

$40 per person Limited tickets available

Food & Wine Festival

Tickets on sale April 1st Call 228.875.4424 For more information, contact the Ocean Springs Chamber of Commerce Main Street - Tourism Bureau at 228.875.4424

The vision of Shivers Creek is simply to serve the best Catfish, Angus Steaks, Seafood and Homemade Desserts possible.

Open 4:30 ‐ 9:00 p.m.

Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights Highway 43 S • Shivers, MS 601‐847‐1700

We do not take any shortcuts in product preparation, providing our guests outstanding service, quality food and great value.

Join Shivers Creek Fish House group on

Shivers Creek Fish House

Open 4:30 - 9:00 p.m. Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights

618 Highway 43 S • Shivers, MS • 601-847-1700 eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 7

{ from our readers }

Thanks so much for the gluten-free features (February/March 2014)! I've been gluten-free for almost 20 years, and can now buy gluten-free foods in my local grocery store, a BIG improvement over having to order them through the mail. I usually am able to convert recipes to being gluten-free, and made two batches of gluten-free fruitcakes this past Christmas using my mom's recipe.

Brian Askew Tylertown

sales soar. My husband and I did not realize it existed, but we liked it so much that we have subscribed to begin receiving it.

God bless you in your upcoming issues!

Thank you so much for the article. I am well pleased and to show my gratitude I am featuring it in my blog. I hope your

Jacque Rogers Collins

Grace Good Greenwood gracefullyglutenfree.blogspot.com Thank you for being so prompt in sending my first issue. I can't wait to devour it.

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI J.J. Carney Publisher/Editor John Carney Executive Editor Anne Morgan Carney Executive Assistant Ann Nichols Amelia Perdomo Advertising Executives Joe Luca Newsstand Sales Consultant

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{contributors} LIZ BARRETT is an Oxford-based journalist who has been working with trade magazines and online publications for close to 10 years. She runs the award-winning website and blog EatingOxford.com, which provides Oxonians with local restaurant news and information, and is the editor-at-large for the nation’s No. 1 pizza trade publication, PMQ Pizza Magazine. In her spare time, she likes to plan getaways to far-off places, conjure up wild business ideas, and is currently writing her first book, due out in late 2014.

JULIAN BRUNT is a food and culture writer from the Gulf Coast whose roots run more than three hundred years deep in Southern soil. He is deeply concerned with culinary and cultural traditions and thinks no man worth his salt that cannot hold forth in tall tale and willingly endure the heat of the kitchen.

LISA LAFONTAINE BYNUM is a freelance writer from Grenada. Her work has appeared in several publications in Mississippi. She is a graduate of Delta State University where she received a BA in Marketing and her MBA. In her free time, she enjoys food writing and photography. She currently resides in Brandon. Photo by Alisa Chapman Photography JO ALICE DARDEN is a book editor and freelance writer. A former lifestyles editor for the Greenwood Commonwealth, she is a regular contributor to its quarterly publication, Leflore Illustrated. She grew up in Greenwood, graduated from Delta State University with a major in English, and now lives in Cruger with her husband Bob, also a writer, on his family’s farm.

SUSAN MARQUEZ lives and writes in Madison.

She has a degree in Radio-TV-Film from the University of Southern Mississippi and had a long career in advertising and marketing before stumbling into a freelance writing career in 2001. Hundreds of published articles later, Marquez still loves to tell the stories of the interesting people, places, and events throughout the South.

ANNE MARTIN is a freelance writer, columnist and journalist. She has spent the better part of the past 28 years covering the Mississippi Delta as a broadcast journalist. Her passion is writing about anything related to Mississippi and the South. Her work has appeared in several local and regional magazines. She is a graduate of Mississippi Delta Junior College and attended the University of Southern Mississippi. She lives on a farm in Rosedale.

KATHY K. MARTIN is an Ole Miss journalism graduate who currently lives in Collierville, Tennessee with her husband and two children. She works as a freelance writer and chairs her church’s Christian writers group.

LINDSAY MOTT is a writer from Pascagoula and a graduate of Spring Hill College in Mobile. She scours the South for new (and old) restaurants, coffee shops, music joints, local bands, festivals, and anything else that makes the area unique.

GENNIE PHILLIPS, a Forest native, is the publications coordinator at East Central Community College in Decatur and a freelance writer, photographer, and graphic designer.

She is the former editor of The Demopolis Times, a five-day daily newspaper in Demopolis, Ala., and managing editor of The Scott County Times, a weekly newspaper in her hometown. A graduate of the University of Southern Mississippi with a Bachelor’s Degree in Journalism, she has received numerous awards from the Associated Press and the Mississippi and Alabama Press Associations. She is the proud mom to an infant daughter, Mallory Grace. In her free time, she enjoys traveling, reading, and cooking.

LORIE ROACH lives in Buckatunna with her husband. She is a food blogger and owns her own photography business. She is also an avid cooking contest participant and has traveled the country to compete. In 2008, she competed on Food Network’s Ultimate Recipes Showdown: Cakes, where she won first place in the cupcake segment of the show.

JANETTE TIBBETTS is a ninth generation Mississippian. She grew up on a Jones County dairy farm, attended Millsaps, taught school, and was a merchant. She is the founder and curator of “The Sandbank,” a Beatrix Potter Collection, at USM. She is a freelance writer and photographer. Janette writes weekly garden and food columns for magazines and newspapers. She was awarded a writer’s grant from the Mississippi Art’s Commission and the National Endowment of the Arts. She lives with her husband, Jon, and writes in their home near Hattiesburg. A published author of short stories, she is presently completing a novel.

KELSEY WELLS is a news writer at Lawrence County Press in Monticello. She is a graduate of Southwest Mississippi Community College where she served as editor of The Pine Burr.

She earned her Bachelor’s degree in Communications at William Carey University and served as a staff writer and life editor of The Cobbler student newspaper until she became managing editor her senior year. She currently resides in the Divide community where she is active in her church and community.

KATIE HUTSON WEST is a freelance writer from Tupelo. She is a graduate of Mississippi State University where she earned a B.S. degree in Marketing, Communications, and Business Psychology. An avid traveler, when home she resides in Starkville.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 9

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Mississippi’s only magazine dedicated to the food and hospitality it’s famous for.

3720 Hardy Street, Suite 3 | Hattiesburg, MS | 601-261-2224 www.KitchenTableNow.com

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BAKED AND FRIED PUMP KIN CAKE ROBERT ST. JOHN AND WYATT WATE TO CREATE RS TEAM AN ITALIAN PALATE DELTA HOT TAMALES

page 34

DELIC IOUSLY SEXY EG PASS CHRISTIAN OYSTERCH FESTIVAL ICKEN GPLAN AND AN TS PIZZA MORE THAN 30 GREAT RECIPES FOR HOLIDAYSDOUILLE FARTHE SAUSAG M OFFER E GUMB S UNIQU SUPER GAME DAY GRUB O E LEARN ING EXP ERIEN CE

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 11

{ fabulous foodie finds }

Show Your

Mississippi Pride

Small cookie cutter, $3.50

The Mississippi Gift Company Greenwood

Iced sugar cookie, $1.50 each Campbell's Bakery Jackson

Butcher block bamboo cutting board, $48.00 AHeirloom online

see page 88 for store information

12 APRIL/MAY 2014

Mississippi glass, $14.75 Catstudio online

Mississippi platter by Etta B Pottery, $54.00 DeShea's Oxford

Mississippi Morning shaped basket, $40.00 The Mississippi Gift Company Greenwood

Home Sweet Home Mississippi melamine dinner plate, $27.95 Zazzle online

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 13

{ raise your glass }

The Sub-Zero Nitro Rhu Rita cocktail gets started.

Smoking Hot Cocktails 14 • APRIL/MAY 2014

ABOVE - Ronnie Carpenter and Tim Parker watch in the background as one of their drinks puts on its show. RIGHT - A finished drink, the Pear Martini, with a frozen alcohol popsicle in place. story and photography by julian brunt

R

onnie Carpenter and Tim Parker may have the coolest jobs on the Mississippi Gulf Coast. They are the bartenders at Beau Rivage Resort & Casino's stunning restaurant, BR Prime The Steakhouse, and the specialty drinks they're pouring won't be seen anywhere else on the Coast. You might find the basic idea at very high end bars in Miami or Chicago, but the staff at the Beau has added a new dimension that’s absolutely unique.

Stephane Hainaut, the Beau's Director of Food & Beverage, says that his inspiration came from famed molecular gastronome Chef Richard Blais, and he thought that he could turn the "Classics to Cool" in this new era of mixology. What Carpenter and Parker do combines the drama of a smoking, bubbling stage show, and an improved drink. The cocktail is fortified with a frozen, decorative alcohol popsicle. This addition is made from the drink itself, but frozen super cold by a liquid nitrogen bath. The drink is presented in a martini glass atop a unique tray. When all are combined, the lollipop slowly melts, but doesn't water down the drink. It continues to add flavor for a longer, smoother cocktail.

But these are not to be thought of as standalone drinks, at least that's what Stephane Hainaut hopes for. They are meant to be a distinctive first course that will begin your dining experience at BR Prime in an exceptional way.

The best seller is the Rhu Rita Martini. It's made with Herradura Silver Tequila, famed as an aged, smooth and clean tequila, that’s just a bit woody and has a tad of citrus.

The tequila is combined with Cynar Liqueur, an Italian bitter liqueur made with artichoke; then fresh lime, liquid sugar, rhubarb bitters and orange flower water is added. It may

sound a bit complicated, but the resulting drink is smooth and delicious.

The drink arrives on a beautiful glass tray and equally attractive martini glass, with each drink having its own distinctive glassware and presentation. There's a small decorative holder that carries the alcohol popsicle. The show begins when the liquid nitrogen starts its performance. As it subsides, the popsicle is placed in the glass, and it's time to taste and enjoy.

There are five Sub-Zero Nitro Bar drinks, as the good folks as the Beau call them. Each is as delicious a concoction as you will find anywhere, and they're fun!

Another of Carpenter and Parker's creations, the Pear Martini, is made with Grey Goose La Poire vodka, Cointreau, Amaretto Disaronno, and fresh sour mix. It is just as delicious as the Rhu Rita Martini and just as much fun to watch being created.

BR Prime is one of the top dining destinations in the Deep South as Chef James Balster will wow you with his creations, and Director of Fine Dining Murat Akan will be sure to cater to your every need. But the guys at the bar are concocting a fun and creative way to start your meal that is delicious and impressive. Only at BR Prime. edm BR Prime Sub-Zero Nitro Bar Beau Rivage Casino and Resort 875 Beach Blvd., Biloxi 1.888.952.2582 for dining reservations beaurivage.com eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 15

Sweet Tradition

16 APRIL/MAY 2014

A close-up view of one of the Lambs' sugar egg creations reveals the intricate detail of the colorcoordinated design of the exterior.

Gladys Lamb, left, is passing along the sweet tradition of making sugar eggs to her granddaughterin-law, Shelbi Lamb. Gladys has made the eggs every year for more than 35 years.

Greenwood Sugar Egg Artist Passes Sweet Tradition Along

W

STORY BY JO ALICE DARDEN PHOTOS BY LAMB’S PHOTOGRAPHY

hen Les Lamb brought his bride, Gladys, to Greenwood after World War II, the couple had $1,500 they’d planned to use to set up housekeeping in their new home.

“He took it to Memphis and spent it on photographic equipment,” Gladys said, laughing.

Gladys helped Les build Lamb’s Photography, which quickly became a landmark institution in Greenwood and the Delta. After Les died in 1984, his son Hank Lamb and Hank’s wife, Rebecca, and their son, Andrew, carried on the family business.

After helping start and grow the business, Gladys started looking for another challenge. She was among the first group in Greenwood to take licensed practical nurse (LPN) training, which led her to positions at Greenwood Leflore Hospital and then in private doctors’ practices, all while she was rearing the couple’s three sons. She became a certified clinical medical assistant and by the mid-1970s was serving on national committees and being elected president of Mississippi’s

Medical Assistants Group.

Still searching for something to fill her spare time, Gladys took a cake-decorating class and began making birthday and wedding cakes for family and friends.

“I came to sugar eggs by accident,” she said. “I saw an Easter sugar egg in a magazine and made one for the kids, and everybody who saw it wanted one.”

The sugar egg process combines her cake-decorating artistry with something that looks fresh and different, and the art lasts for years instead of disappearing in a few bites.

Customers usually start placing orders in January, and hundreds of the delicate sculptures are made each year in time for Easter. Through social media, especially Facebook, where Eggs by Gladys has a presence, its loyal customer base has expanded beyond borders.

“Last year, we shipped all over – Italy, France, London –,” Gladys said, “and we lost only one egg.”

After more than 35 years, though, she’s preparing to pass her business to a new generation. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 17

ABOVE LEFT - Gladys Lamb works on the assembly line in her kitchen. The sugar mixture is poured into top-half and bottom-half molds, allowed to dry, and removed from the molds. The interior is scooped out (later recycled) and decorated. ABOVE CENTER - When the halves are joined, icing is piped along the seam to seal it and around the opening. The egg is finished with piped flowers, ribbons and trinkets.

OPPOSITE TOP - A sugar egg with a history: In the 1980s, Gladys believes, she made this large sugar egg for a loyal customer who kept it in pristine condition. When the customer died in 2012, Gladys purchased it at the estate sale. OPPOSITE - These sugar eggs are boxed and ready to go to their forever homes.

“I am so thankful that one of my grandchildren found a young lady who can do this,” Gladys said.

Andrew’s wife, Shelbi Lamb, 36, and a busy mom of three herself, also came to the sugar eggs by accident.

“I had wanted to learn how to do the eggs, but I just hadn’t had the time,” Shelbi said.

When another magazine featured an article on Eggs by Gladys, Shelbi knew there would be an uptick in orders and told Gladys she would help.

“We had gone over part of the process and started on some eggs,” Shelbi said. But Gladys got the flu the week the magazine was published and was in the hospital for two weeks.

“I had to sink or swim,” Shelbi said.

Andrew and Shelbi moved the process to their house and set up an assembly line operation that got them through the Easter season.

18 • APRIL/MAY 2014

“Making the eggs was not a problem,” Shelbi said. “Finding all the little pieces that go inside and on top of the eggs was going to be hard. Everybody in the family picked up whatever trinkets they could find at dollar stores and Michael’s.”

With proper care and keeping the eggs out of humidity for instance, in a tightly closed china cabinet - the eggs last for decades, often becoming family heirlooms.

Gladys, now 89, still contributes to the sugar egg process.

“She makes such beautiful roses, very complicated ones,” Shelbi said.

Shelbi appreciates the rich sugar egg tradition she has inherited. “It’s been really neat to hear people talk about how they grew up with these eggs, and now they want their kids to have them, too,” she said.

To order Eggs by Gladys, email eggsbygladys@gmail.com or look them up on Facebook. edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 19

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eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 21

{ deep south dish }

Food. Family. Memories.

Family Punch Bowl Evokes Fond Memories

BY MARY FOREMAN

P

unch bowls have a long history in the South. Back in the day before hiring a caterer was the norm, families provided all of the food and labor for big parties and family events. Every family had a treasured punch bowl, almost always one that had been passed down a few times.

They’ve mostly fallen out of grace these days, even for Southerners, being relegated to places like eBay, Etsy online shops and local thrift stores, where you can often find them for a song. Younger folks just aren’t all that interested in punch bowls anymore and while punch is certainly served today, it’s likely found in the a new-fangled, spouted beverage dispenser. For those of us who still possess a heritage punch bowl, they mostly only make an appearance during the Christmas season now.

Although a lot of folks think of punch in the traditional way, that is, with some kind of liquor, in our family the traditional punch bowl was always intended for the younger generation and those adult teetotalers who did not imbibe in alcohol. I do seem to recall there might have been a time or two at a family wedding that somebody managed to spike the punch, throwing everybody in a quick panic. I can say that I was not involved in any way whatsoever… well, that’s my story and I’m sticking to it! Whenever there was a family event of any kind, you could count on finding one of my Mama’s decorated layer cakes and her punch bowl in attendance, filled with the classic sherbet topped fruit punch she always made, nestled in with all the finger sandwiches, cocktail meatballs, sausage balls, and hot crab dip.

Mama’s punch bowl was a heavy and oversized, thickly etched crystal heritage piece, and one that she had inherited after the passing of her own mother. It made an appearance at every single family event of my life, even my own wedding

Mary Foreman, a native of Biloxi, is the author of the popular website deepsouthdish.com, where she shares her favorite, homespun, mostly from scratch and, very often, heirloom and heritage, Southern recipes.

22 • APRIL/MAY 2014

and later, my baby shower. On my Mama’s passing, I asked my cousin - who dearly loved my Mama and who Mama loved back equally, as if she were her own - if there was anything of Mama’s that she might want. She didn’t hesitate a moment to share how much she would love to have the punch bowl, so of course she got it.

That punch bowl represented much more than just a beverage vessel for our family. It held tight to so many memories and events in all of our lives because where those events occurred, that punch bowl was always present. For my cousin, that represented memories and the love of sisters, our mothers, as they lovingly prepared meals for so many of our gatherings. It represented times when the young women in our family came of age and passed into being new brides, and those times when those same brides passed into being new mothers.

Punch bowls may not be as revered as they once were, but one thing that rose out of them sure has held on and survived the passing of time, and that would be the punch bowl cake.

Most often simply called a trifle today – even by our Southern gals - and rarely served in an actual punch bowl anymore, there are many of us who have fond memories of a punch bowl cake that was served at a special time in our life. With layers of cake and sometimes brownies, a creamy filling of some kind, often pudding, some kind of fruit – either fresh, frozen or in the form of a pie filling – and whipped cream, really how can you go wrong with that? Pretty to look at, and simply delicious, they are always well received and make a great dessert for church suppers, potlucks, birthdays, holidays, and gatherings of all types.

The beauty of this icebox dessert is that it is prepared ahead, allowing all of the flavors to meld and marry together, freeing you up for other party preparations, but also that there is such versatility in the different ways that you can prepare one. A yellow cake or pineapple cake, layered in with vanilla pudding, fresh strawberries, and pineapple can stand in for many occasions through the spring and summer. For patriotic holidays, a pound cake or angel food cake, layered with white chocolate or vanilla pudding, strawberries, and blueberries is striking. For the Christmas holidays or a special birthday, you can’t beat chocolate cake or brownies, layered in with one layer of vanilla pudding, strawberries or raspberries, another layer of chocolate pudding and whipped cream.

Garnish the top with more of the fresh fruit and some maraschino cherries and chocolate curls, and you’ve got a dessert

Strawberry Punch Bowl Angel Cake From the Kitchen of Deep South Dish

that will be lick the bowl good.

This cake uses an angel food cake, which you may either trim up or leave with the crust on. Any cake that goes with the fruit and pudding you use will work, and in fact, if you’ve ever had a cake that fell or didn’t quite turn out, a punch bowl cake is a great way to repurpose it. I have a feeling that a punch bowl cake might have been born from just such an experience.

This combination of both fresh and frozen strawberries, layered with angel food cake is one of my favorites. The cream cheese and sweetened condensed milk filling I use is just a little different from the usual pudding layer and is truly decadent. To that, I add thawed frozen sliced strawberries, or another pint of fresh strawberries, macerated in a bit of granulated sugar. This really takes the filling over the top. Garnish with a bit of shredded sweet coconut and finely chopped pecans, and you have one impressive dessert for any table. edm

1 (8 ounce) cream cheese, softened to room temperature 1/2 cup of granulated sugar Juice of 2 lemons 1 (14 ounce) can of sweetened condensed milk 1 (8 ounce) container of Cool Whip 2 (10 ounce) packages of frozen sliced strawberries, thawed 1 (15 ounce) angel food cake or pound cake 1 pound of fresh strawberries, sliced (reserve some for garnish) 1/4 cup of shredded coconut, optional 1/4 cup of finely chopped pecans, optional Beat the cream cheese and sugar together until well combined. Add the lemon juice and condensed milk; blend. Add the thawed strawberries with their juices and combine well. Carefully fold in the Cool Whip; set aside. Cut or tear the cake into small bite size pieces. Arrange ingredients in a 14-cup capacity trifle bowl or punch bowl, in three layers, beginning with 1/3 of the cake pieces, placing cake on the bottom, topping with 1/3 of the Cool Whip blend, 1/3 of the fresh sliced strawberries and a light sprinkle of the coconut and pecans. Repeat layers until all ingredients are used and garnish the top with the remaining shredded coconut and chopped pecans. Cover and refrigerate overnight before serving and store any leftovers in the fridge.

Increase ingredients as needed for a larger trifle bowl.

Cook’s Notes: May substitute a second pound of fresh strawberries for the frozen. Slice and mix with 1/4 cup of granulated sugar. Toss and refrigerate for 1 hour, stirring occasionally, before using.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 23

{ featured festival }

A Toast ToYour Health

24 APRIL/MAY 2014

Wine and Food Extravaganza Benefits Alzheimer's Association - Mississippi Chapter

T

STORY BY LINDSAY MOTT | PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRICE MEDIA

he Santé South Wine Festival is planning to bring more wine than ever to Mississippi and also show off its artsy side this April. New venue, more wines, and an accompanying art festival are taking the event to a whole new level.

This year’s festival has also been included in the “Year of the Creative Economy: Mississippi Homecoming” set in place by Governor Phil Bryant. “The Year of the Creative Economy” is a statewide celebration featuring events and highlighting creative talent and the impact they have on the local economy.

Also new this year, the festival is partnering with the Ridgeland Fine Arts Festival, a juried fine art show, bringing together fine art and fine wine.

The festival will showcase 35 different wine companies from all over the world, including Argentina, Australia, Austria, France, Germany, Spain, New Zealand, Asia, South Africa, and even California and Oregon. Each company brings around four vintages, giving the possibility of sampling more than 120 different wines, including new release vintages.

But, what makes the Mississippi festival extra special, ac-

cording to Patty Dunn, executive director of the Alzheimer’s Association - Mississippi Chapter, is that for almost all the companies attending, the actual winemaker or owner attends.

“What sets this event apart from other wine festivals is the opportunity to speak directly with the winemaker,” Dunn said.

The wines average $40 a bottle, and the festival is an opportunity to taste wines that you might not want to spend a lot on just to try, Dunn said. They feature all types of wine, including bubbly. There are some new wines coming to the festival this year including the popular Paul Hobbs, Alexander Valley, and Plump Jack vineyards.

Dunn said that the winemakers love coming to Mississippi each year and they like that the event is outdoors. Many have commented that they love the Southern hospitality and that the people here are so interested in the vintages they bring.

The event has been in Jackson in past years at various venues, but will move to Ridgeland this year. It will be held alongside the Ridgeland Fine Arts Festival, which brings in artists from all over the country, giving the wine festival a eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 25

26 • APRIL/MAY 2014

whole new level of exposure.

With a larger venue, they’re planning for and limiting attendance to 1,000 people, so guests have a chance to sample the wines they want and get the information they’re looking for.

“You don’t want to diminish the opportunity your attendees have to talk with the winemakers,” Dunn said. “The experience is really important to the people that come.”

Besides the wine, festival goers will get to taste food from 25 different restaurants across the state including Table 100, Mint the Restaurant, Amerigo, and many more. Restaurants mostly come from Vicksburg and the Delta, but they are hoping to stretch the reach this year.

“It’s an opportunity to taste local cuisine from local chefs, Mississippi chefs,” Dunn said.

The festival was founded by Norm Rush of BeauMad & Associates, a wine broker already bringing high-caliber wines to the state with a personal connection to Alzheimer’s. He contacted the association about using the event as a fundraiser for them in 2005 when Hurricane Katrina had cancelled most of their fundraising walks. They welcomed the new event in 2006.

“It gave us an opportunity to kind of build some awareness around the association and provided him an opportunity to market and promote some of the winemakers and the wines that he promotes in the state of Mississippi,” Dunn said. “He wanted to provide a marketing opportunity for these different wine makers while at the same time making a social impact on the community he lives in.”

The event is planned and managed by the two groups.

Dunn’s team handless logistics and Rush handles the wine.

The event is unique with its focus on health while also encouraging its participants to have fun and enjoy, which makes the name all the more appropriate. Santé means a “toast to your health” and that’s what organizers are hoping you’ll do. edm

April 5th 7:30 to 10 p.m.

Renaissance at Colony Park near Ruth’s Chris Steak House

Grand Tasting tickets are $80. VIP tickets are $125, offering a chance to get in an hour early. Guests receive a souvenir wineglass and a wine guide listing all essential details. Tickets get you unlimited samples. A rain option is also planned.

For more info and to purchase tickets, visit www.santesouth.com.

Special hotel and accommodation packages are also available. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 27

Meet

Biscuit The Happy Dutch Oven Cook

28 APRIL/MAY 2014

Biscuit T. Sims and his wife, Anne (a.k.a. Sugar Booger), love cooking outdoors with cast iron Dutch ovens.

Clinton Resident Receives Great Joy From Campfire Black Pot Cooking story by Susan Marquez | photography by J.J. Carney

W

hen you think about Dutch oven cooking, you probably think of a thick, hearty stew cooked over a roaring campfire; but for Biscuit T. Sims of Clinton, just about anything you can imagine cooking or baking in a kitchen can be accomplished in a cast iron Dutch oven. “If there’s an ice storm or the electricity goes out for any reason, I’m still in business,” laughs Sims. “I cook everything from pot roasts and chickens to cobblers and yes, even biscuits!”

Sims got his nickname, “Biscuit,” from his ham radio buddies. “My handle is N5HBB. We use phonetics to remember the handles. Mine is “need five hot buttered biscuits.” Of course, ‘Biscuit’ stuck. Now I’m known as ‘Biscuit, the happy Dutch oven cook.’”

His love of camp black pot cooking developed at an early age in his hometown of Montgomery, Alabama. “My

dad was a butcher, and he taught me how to cut up a chicken and steaks. He also taught me how to grill.” As a Boy Scout, Sims had a mess kit. “We went on a winter camp out, and my mom sent me out with a couple of hot dogs and some buns. One of the other campers had a little oil and a pork chop, and boy did that chop smell good. It made my hot dogs look kind of sad. I decided then and there, I needed to learn how to cook!” Years later, Sims and his wife, Anne (a.k.a. Sugar Booger), developed a love for camping. “Our first camper didn’t have an oven, and I like biscuits. I went to the old Surplus City and bought my first Dutch oven. Shortly after that, I burnt my first batch of biscuits.”

While camping, they met others who cooked in Dutch ovens and they shared tips and techniques and learned from each other. “When the internet came along, I started doing some

research and learned even more. About 14 years ago I started a Yahoo group called Dutch Oven Cooking and today we have nearly 3,000 members from all over the country and abroad.” Ten years ago, Sims and others had an idea to have a national Dutch oven gathering. “It’s like a giant pot-luck dinner,” he said. “This year, we had our tenth annual gathering at the DeGray Lake Resort in Arkansas. We had over 400 attendees and more than 350 people from the general public came.”

Sims has had a varied career. He recently retired from the Jackson Public School system where he worked in electronics for the maintenance department. He has also been an on-air radio comedian on MISS103. “I was ‘Biscuit’ on the Rick and Kim show from 2000 to 2005. I got to meet several country music stars, and I became friends with a few.” eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 29

Pretty much any dish that is baked in a traditional oven can be baked in a Dutch oven, including biscuits and cobblers.

By varying the number of hot charcoal briquettes placed underneath and on top of a Dutch oven, the temperature inside the oven can be accurately controlled.

30 • APRIL/MAY 2014

Creole Chicken and Rice

Blueberry Cobbler

Cooking in a Dutch oven is a bit different from cooking in a regular oven. “At one time, we dug holes in the ground and built a fire, or we’d have a campfire above the ground. But now my center of gravity is shifting, and I need something that won’t require me to bend over.” Sims now uses a cooking table that he can cook on while standing up. “There are all kinds of accessories to help you, but there are a few basic things you need if you want to do some serious camp Dutch oven cooking.” Sims suggests having a chimney starter for charcoal, a lid lifter, an oil pan, a cooking table, leather welding gloves, a whisk broom, and a coal shovel. “I also use a 10-gallon trash can for an ash can.”

Sims explained that a Dutch oven is really three cooking vessels in one. “You can use the lid as a frying pan, The pot, used over a fire, becomes a stock pot and when you put the lid on it and put coals on top and around the bottom, it becomes an oven.” Regulating the heat in a Dutch oven is an art unto itself. “If a recipe calls for a 350 degree oven, you achieve that by the number of coals you put on and around the pot.” Sims uses charcoal briquettes as his heat source.

“You can cook anything in a Dutch oven that you can cook on your stove or in the oven. Most people are surprised to learn that you can make yeast and sour dough bread in a Dutch oven–and biscuits! You can cook a pineapple upside down cake in a Dutch oven. One of my favorite things to eat is cobbler, and there are plenty of recipes out there. Most involve using a box of yellow or white cake mix, a 12-ounce Sprite, canned fruit, and butter. I developed a variation of that recipe for my favorite dessert that I call ‘Mississippi Swamp Cake.’ That uses canned cherry pie filling and chocolate cake mix. It’s delicious!”

Sims is constantly adapting or developing recipes that he shares with others. “We had a fellow who was originally from Lebanon to fly in from California for one of our national gatherings. He cooked a traditional Lebanese chicken and rice dish that was pretty good, but I’m tweaking it a bit to make it more to my liking.”

Sharing his love of campfire black pot cooking is a joy for Sims. “I teach workshops all over, to folks of all ages.” Sims has done programs for children at the Clinton and Ridgeland libraries. “Kids are always amazed to learn that they can cook a pizza on a campfire. I take the lid off and put it on a lid

stand over the coals to bake the pizza.” He’s also done cooking demonstrations at Bass Pro Shop and at several festivals. “I have worked with state and national parks and taught the 'Becoming an Outdoor Woman' workshops at the University of Alabama in addition to Scout troops and other groups. Now that I’m retired, I’d love to do more workshops and cooking demonstrations and classes.”

Sims has plenty of pots to use in his classes. “I have collected close to 50 pots over the years. I have over 100 pieces of cast iron.” In addition to teaching people how to cook in a Dutch oven, Sims can school his pupils on how to properly season the pot, and how to care for it so that it will last for generations. “The easiest thing for people to start with is usually a roast or soup, but there’s much more beyond that to learn.”

As Chapter Advisor for the Magnolia Black Pots Chapter of the Lone Star Dutch Oven Society, Sims has worked tirelessly to promote the craft of black pot cooking. “Sadly, our chapter is shrinking. We’re hoping to build more interest so that we can build our membership.” That shouldn’t be too hard. When folks gather to eat and share ideas about cooking, good things are bound to happen.

For more information about campfire black pot cooking, contact Biscuit T. Sims at n5hbb@yahoo.com. “I’d love to hear from anyone who is interested, whether they’re a seasoned cook or someone who has never cooked in a Dutch oven before.” edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 31

1 (10-3/4 ounces) can cream of chicken soup 1 (10-3/4 ounces) can cream of mushroom soup 1 cup sour cream 3 tablespoons garlic, minced, about a small jar 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 2 cans water 8 to 10 chicken thighs or your favorite parts Coarse pepper Sauté celery and onion with oil in Dutch oven, until tender. Add rice with seasoning packets that came in box. Add soups, sour cream, garlic, Worcestershire sauce, and water.

Stir to mix all ingredients in Dutch oven. Wash chicken and season with pepper. Place on top of rice mixture. Cover Dutch oven with lid. Place 9 coals on bottom and 15 coals on top. This will be at 325 degrees. Cook for 90 minutes.

Replenish coals after the first one hour. If rice looks like it is getting too dry; add a little more water.

NOTE : Add one jar of mushrooms, if desired.

PHOTO SUBMITTED

MISSISSIPPI SWAMP CAKE BREAKFAST PIE 1st Place Breakfast Casserole 2009 National Dutch Oven Gathering

10 inch Dutch oven 1 pound of sausage Onion powder, to taste 1-1/2 cups grated cheddar cheese 1 Pillsbury rolled pie crust 4 eggs 1 cup half and half Creole seasoning, to taste Brown sausage with onion powder and drain. Mix sausage and cheese together and put in pie crust. Mix remaining ingredients and pour over sausage/cheese mixture.

Bake at 350 degrees for about 45 minutes or until golden brown on top.

NOTE: 350 degrees is about 14 coals on the top and seven on the bottom (or one ring of coals around the bottom and one ring on top with a couple of extra in the middle).

Before placing pie crust in Dutch oven, fold two strips of parchment paper and put in the bottom of the oven. Cut a round piece to put on top of the two strips. This will allow you to remove the pie after it's done.

BAKED CHICKEN AND WILD RICE 12 inch Dutch oven 3 to 4 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 cups celery, diced 1 small onion, diced 2 cups wild rice, or 3 (6.6 ounce) boxes of Riceland Long Grain & Wild Rice 32 APRIL/MAY 2014

12 inch Dutch oven Aluminum foil Cooking spray 1 (21 ounce) can cherry pie filling 1 box chocolate cake mix 1 (12 ounce) can Dr. Pepper 2 cups coconut 1 cup chopped pecans 1 stick margarine or butter Line Dutch oven with aluminum foil. Spray foil with a light coat of cooking spray. Put in cherry pie filling and spread over bottom. Pour dry cake mix on top of pie filling and spread. Pour Dr. Pepper over top of cake mix and use a spoon to mix soda into cake mix (not in filling). Stir enough to moisten cake mix. Cover top with coconut and then pecans. Arrange over cake five small slices of butter or margarine. Cover and cook for about one hour. Put 17 coals on top and eight on bottom. This will make oven 350 degrees.

QUICK COBBLER 2 cans pie filling (your choice) 1 package cake mix (white or yellow) 1 (12 ounce) can Sprite or 7-Up 1 (32 ounce) whipped topping Spread pie filling evenly over bottom of 12 inch Dutch oven. Sprinkle cake mix evenly over filling (do not mix with filling). Pour soda over the cake mix and lightly mix into cake mix (not in the filling). Place 15 charcoals on top and six on bottom. Bake for 40 minutes. Remove bottom heat after 30 minutes cooking time. When done, cool and serve with whipped topping.

Dutch Oven Cooking Helpful Hints

OLD-TIME SERVICE COMPETITIVE PRICES

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• Strong wind or breeze will raise the temperature, but lower the burn time of your briquettes.

• Shade will lower the temperature.

• Direct sunlight will raise the temperature.

• High humidity in the air will lower temperature.

• High altitude will lower the temperature.

• Higher air temperature will also increase the temperature.

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Thurman’s Landscaping eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 33

{ mississippi made }

Flathau’s Fine Foods F

By Gennie Phillips

lathau’s Fine Foods, owned and operated by Heather and Jeff Flathau, was established in 2002, following the opening of the couple's catering business, Flathau's Fine Catering, which they founded in 1992.

The couple originally made unique cheese straws from an old family recipe for weddings and someone suggested they take them to market in Atlanta.

“We bit and did it as a sideline business for several years, doing just enough business to keep it going,” Jeff Flathau said. “I wanted to try to make a shortbread crescent cookie that my grandmother in Chicago used to make. My mother and I tried, but could not get the shelf life to work.”

That’s when Heather started experimenting, Jeff said.

“Heather did some searching and developed a recipe that was fantastic,” he added. “I came home one day and found her crushing peppermint candies (in a Ziploc bag) on the carport floor with a hammer. She tested it on our kids, then friends, and added raspberry and the rest is history.”

The name, Snaps, was developed from the cookie having a snap (crunch),

34 • APRIL/MAY 2014

Jeff said. In addition to the original flavors peppermint and raspberry, they have introduced key lime, butterscotch, lemon, cinnamon, plain, and strawberry flavors.

Jeff said his company’s products differ from other shortbread items on the market because most of their cookies have crushed candy inside the dough.

“We still do a lot by hand and use real butter, all natural candy, and sharp Cheddar cheese for our straws,” he said.

“We do not skimp on our ingredients.

Our profit is lower, but it is all top shelf.”

During the product development process, the Flathaus had a close friend who worked at Anderson Paint in nearby Hattiesburg and wanted corporate gifts using their products. She wanted to use paint cans and put the Anderson Paint label on it. Heather liked the can, so the Flathaus used cans and cartons in their packaging concepts and the cans were quickly a hit.

The company, located in Petal, manufactures several cookies and snack products and has been doing so since 1996. The Flathaus’ company offers the cookies in two brand names - “Flathau's Fine Foods,” which is found in gift shops,

Produces Goodness in a Snap gourmet stores, catalogs, department stores, and Web stores; and “Maddy’s Sweet Shop” line, which is sold to grocery and mass merchandisers across the U.S. The company also exports to several countries across the globe including Chile, China, Costa Rica, Japan, Philippines, Canada, Mexico, and Europe.

The Snaps come packaged in 4, 7, 8 and 16 oz. cartons, 6 and 16 oz. cans, and gift sets. They also provide specialty packing and private labeling for other companies.

Through the years, the company has won nine national awards and was one of seven companies named to the inaugural class of Mississippi Companies to Watch in 2009. In addition, Flathau’s was featured on the Food Network's “Unwrapped” and has been “Snack of the Day” three times on the Rachael Ray Show. Flathau’s Fine Foods is family owned and operated and is still considered an artisanal bakery.

Both Jeff and Heather have extensive experience in the food industry. Jeff owned several restaurants and catering companies, opening his first restaurant at age 24 in Slidell, La. Heather was a vice president for Simple Service Foods/

The Mississippi Gourmet for nine years where she was responsible for product development, account management, and sales. In 1998, she was chosen one of the top up-and-coming businesswomen of the year in Hattiesburg.

In the future, the company plans to keep fine-tuning my products and packaging, adding new items as they see fit, Jeff said.

“It is challenging to keep up with all the new initiatives and requirements, especially for exportation and for grocery,” he said. However, he said he has high hopes that both brands continue to thrive.

All products can be purchased online at www.flathausfinefoods.com. edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 35

, Let s Jam Spring is near, which means an abundance of fresh produce will soon be available at your local farmers market. This is the perfect time to make homemade jam.

However, jam doesn’t always have to be used as a spread for your morning toast.

Here are a few savory sauces that will make a welcome addition to your dinner table.

RECIPES AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY LISA LAFONTAINE BYNUM

For more of Lisa's delicious recipes, visit cookingbride.com.

36 APRIL/MAY 2014

DARK CHERRY AND BACON CHUTNEY Try this smoky sweet chutney on hamburgers or as a glaze for meatloaf.

3 slices of uncooked bacon, coarsely chopped 1 small yellow onion, diced 2 cloves garlic, minced 1/4 cup cider vinegar 2 Tablespoons bourbon Juice of 1 orange 1 teaspoon Worcestershire 1/4 cup brown sugar 1 (12 oz) bag of frozen cherries, thawed (or 1 ½ cups fresh cherries, pitted) 1 cup water Salt and pepper to taste Cook the bacon in a medium sauce pan over medium heat until mostly crisp. Remove bacon with a slotted spoon to a paper towel lined saucer. Reserve the remaining bacon grease.

Add the onion to the pan and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for an additional minute.

Return the bacon to the pan along with the remaining ingredients.

Bring mixture to a slow boil over medium heat. Cover the pot, then cook for 10 minutes or until the cherries have softened.

Remove the lid and let the sauce simmer until much of the liquid has cooked off, approximately 10-15 minutes more.

Add an additional sugar, salt, or pepper as needed to taste. Remove pan from burner and allow to cool for about 15 mintues.

Transfer chutney to a blender or food processor. Pulse mixture a few times until it is chunky.

Store any remaining chutney in the refrigerator for up to two weeks.

Makes 2 cups. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 37

Peach Jalapeño Jam Sweet and tangy with a warm kick at the end, this jam works well as a glaze over pork chops or pork tenderloin.

4 cups peeled, sliced peaches 3-6 jalapeño peppers, seeded 1/4 cup bottled lemon juice 2/3 cup water 4 tablespoons powdered low or no-sugar needed pectin 4 cups granulated sugar Place peach slices and peppers in the bowl of a food processor and pulse until peaches reach your desired consistency (depends on if you like big chunks or little chunks 38 • APRIL/MAY 2014

of peaches in your jam).

Combine mixture with lemon juice, water, and pectin in a large saucepan. Bring mixture to a hard rolling boil.

Stir in sugar. Return to a boil and continue to boil for 1-2 minutes, stirring frequently, until jam reaches desired consistency. Jam will continue to thicken as it cools.

Remove pan from heat. Skim off any foam that has formed on the surface.

Allow jam to cool completely. Store any remaining preserves in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.

Makes 8 cups.

STRAWBERRY PRESERVES WITH BLACK PEPPER AND BALSAMIC VINEGAR Cracked black pepper lends a little kick to this sweet sauce. Pairs well with a soft, mild cheese or poultry.

2 cups fresh or frozen strawberries (about 1 pint), trimmed and quartered (if using frozen, make sure they are thawed) 1-1/2 cups sugar 3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 3 tablespoons water 1 teaspoon cracked black pepper 1-2 tablespoons pectin, optional, for thickness Combine all ingredients except the pectin in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat then reduce the heat to medium low. Simmer, stirring frequently,

skimming any foam that develops on the surface, for 15 minutes, or until mixture has thickened and is translucent.

For a more jam-like consistency, add pectin one tablespoon at a time, stirring thoroughly before adding additional pectin. Mixture will continue to thicken as it cools.

Remove pan from heat and cool preserves completely.

Store any remaining preserves in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.

NOTE: Ground black pepper can be substituted for cracked black pepper, but you may want to reduce the amount to ¼ - ½ teaspoon. The pepper could be too overpowering otherwise.

Makes 2 cups.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 39

{ community }

Dr. Cindy Ayers-Elliott 40 APRIL/MAY 2014

Foot Print Farms

Making an Impression on Young Athletes' Lives STORY BY SUSAN MARQUEZ | PHOTOS SUBMITTED

W

hen she gave up her high heels and fur coats for work boots, Dr. Cindy Ayers-Elliott also made a conscious decision to help improve the lives of those in her community.

Ayers-Elliott is from Ashland and was raised by her grandparents. She went to college in Boston at the University of Massachusetts Amherst then spent much of her career as an investment banker in New York, also doing business in San Francisco, Baltimore as well as in Africa and Europe. After 9/11, she came “home,” longing for a simpler life. “There was much I still wanted to achieve,” she explained. “One of the things on my bucket list was to get my PhD.” She did exactly that, earning her Doctorate at Jackson State University.

“Jake Ayers was my great uncle, and he put me in the frame of understanding the importance of a good education. He helped me get a perspective of life I had never dreamed of.”

On her last trip to Africa, Ayers-Elliott spent a month in the Sahara, participating in farming there. “Looking back on what I wanted to do, I never considered farming. But I heard Michelle Obama talk about how our children needed better nutrition and it moved me. I began to take a look at the food available in my community–everyone has to eat! The researching part of me saw that there were several programs available in the state to aid new farmers. There are all kinds of things available that anyone can go for, including costsharing programs.”

There were plenty of nay-sayers along the way. “I talked to plenty of farmers, and I saw some of the incredible things they were doing. The more we talked, the more opportunities I could see. But so many of the farmers had no interest in taking advantage of the programs available to them, because they were afraid of the government.” Ayers-Elliott decided the only way she could make it real was to do it.

She started Foot Print Farms with goats in inner city Jackson. “I used program funds to go toward fencing and ground work.” Cows, chickens, and produce were also added to the farm. Now she’s a full time farmer and proud of it. “I’m a new kind of farmer, and I’m showing that anyone can do this.

Whether you have a backyard plot or 100 acres, you can still get into the programs available to farmers.”

Ayers-Elliott decided that with her business background, she could really do something with her farm. “I learned that you have to take a look at what you have, not at what you don’t have. I wanted to help fellow farmers and also help create new farmers.”

She’s practicing what she preaches by working with a group of young men at Wingfield High School. The football team needed to raise money for new equipment, so AyersElliott hatched a plan for them to plant, raise and sell watermelons. The school formed a 4-H Club, and the athletes all joined. “They come out regularly, and not only do they tend their garden, but we use it as a teaching opportunity. We discuss the financial side, including how much each seed costs and what the net gain is. They have set up their own account.”

The 4-H Club, called the George Washington Carver Future Scientists, not only uses the profits for buying fitness equipment, they are also learning more about the food they eat, and they’re now talking to their parents and caregivers about nutrition. Ayers-Elliott gives much credit to Wingfield's football coach, Jeffrey Gibson. The two were featured recently on Katie Couric’s show. Couric has become a major booster, purchasing 25 letter jackets for the athlete/farmers.

“I utilize my network to bring in plant scientists, as well as ministers, judges, and people in the military. These young men attend church, and they are good citizens and good students. They will also one day be good husbands and fathers, eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 41

and good providers, making a positive difference in their own households.” Ayers-Elliott brings parents and care givers to the farm to have farm-to-table meals with the students. “The light is on now, and it’s having a snowball effect with their families being positively impacted,” said Ayers-Elliott. “This concept is sustainable and can work any place.”

All of the produce on Foot Print Farms is naturally grown using organic principals. “We are not certified organic yet, but we are working towards that.” She now raises goats and sheep, and they are 90% grass fed. The 68-acre farm sits inside the Jackson city limits, and much of it is still very green with lots of trees. She sells to farmers markets and individuals, and the farm is set up to take EBT cards, which helps get her healthy food to the communities that need it the most.

“Also, the SNAP program allows customers to purchase plants as well, so they can start their own gardens. That’s a

designation certain farms receive from the USDA.” Local chefs are getting to know more about Foot Print Farms and are requesting her produce. Chef Nick Wallace used her produce for the dinner he prepared at the James Beard house. The Mississippi Museum of Art featured her produce in their farm-to-table dinner served to the Board of Trustees at Christmas.

Ayers-Elliott still has more on her bucket list. “I want to write a children’s book that’s tied to the Earth and nature!” As she looked back to the glamorous lifestyle she once led, she said, “The life I had before makes this life so much sweeter.

It’s so heartwarming to see young folks realize they can do so much more.”

For more information on Foot Print Farms, visit their Facebook page at www.facebook.com/footprintfarmsms. edm

TOP LEFT - Wingfield High School Football Coach Jeffery Gibson, partner with the 4-H group, far left, and Dr. Cindy Ayers-Elliott, far right, were guests of Katie Couric on her talk show. TOP RIGHT - Athlete/farmers enjoy a meal together after a day of harvesting. BOTTOM LEFT - Dr. Cindy Ayers-Elliott works on a fence at Foot Print Farms. BOTTOM RIGHT - Foot Print Farms was begun with goats in inner city Jackson.

42 • APRIL/MAY 2014

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Spring Luncheon Sweet Memories of Easters Gone By Inspire Heirloom Menu

44 APRIL/MAY 2014

STORY AND RECIPES BY JANETTE TIBBETTS

b PHOTOS BY SUZANNE CAREY PHOTOGRAPHY

b SHOT ON LOCATION AT THE SANDBANK IN HATTIESBURG

Menu

Roast Leg of Lamb with Balsamic Cranberry Sauce New Potatoes and English Peas with Cream Sauce Glazed Carrots Hand-Rolled Biscuits Herb Butter Mint Jelly Mother's Strawberry Cake Cabernet Sauvignon

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 45

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T

he winter after our parents assumed my sister and I had provoked Old Bill was what caused him to run away with us and a wagon full of pumpkins, our father purchased us a miniature donkey and built us a cart. He told us to never take him outside of the fenced area on our farm. He remarked that we needed to learn to care for and appreciate farm animals.

We quickly bonded with our little donkey, Sunflower. He must learn to share." returned our affection and proved his loyalty by not moving a On Palm Sunday, my sister and I left home early leadstep if anyone other than my sister and I were in the cart. ing Sunflower to church. When we arrived, Brother Ed led For several years, the children in our church helped stage Sunflower around the church yard in an attempt for them to the Triumphant Entrance on Palm Sunday. We were allowed become acquainted. Eventually the children formed a tunnel out of Sunday School early and placed in rows on either side on either side of the entrance. We waved the boughs, chanted of the church entrance where we waved willow limbs and "Hosanna," and waited for Brother Ed to lead Sunflower cane tops which the older boys had cut out of the swamps between the rows. and off the banks of Little Creek.

I had decided that maybe it As we waved the branches was all going to work out well, and shouted “Hosanna," the choir until I looked down the tunnel entered the church singing and and saw the director sitting on were closely followed by the minSunflower's back. I could hardly ister and some members of the breathe! No one had ever sat on congregation.

Sunflower, but on that Sunday We were happy with being morning our donkey was slowly dismissed from Sunday school bringing Brother Ed toward the early for a fun activity until a new church. To everyone else it may children's director came to our have appeared as if Sunflower was church. Of course our mother a willing participant. However, invited Brother Ed to have lunch when Sunflower was half-way with us, and my sister and I down the tunnel and stepping showed him Sunflower, and the exactly in front of my sister and wooden cart our father built for me with Brother Ed smiling and us. proudly sitting astraddle him Brother Ed asked if he was pretending to be Jesus, Sundangerous, and I laughed as I told flower quickly raised his head and him Sunflower was very gentle. started a whimpering sound loud Sister pointed out Sunflower's enough to vibrate his chest before cross (the black streak down his it quickly rose to his throat. He back and shoulders). Sister said opened his mouth and showed the cross meant that Sunflower his yellow teeth as he spread his was a Christian donkey and that, nostrils, snorted and brayed out although our mother said it was the loudest ugly sound I had only a myth, many people believe ever heard him make. Finally, he Sunflower it was a miniature donkey like jerked his head back down and Sunflower that Jesus rode into Jerusalem on Palm Sunday. pulled the reins from the director's hands as he kicked up Brother Ed smiled and asked to ride in the cart. After we both heels and bucked. Brother Ed landed up near the church explained that Sunflower would not pull anyone other than steps and my sister and I led Sunflower back home. us, he didn't say anything else about Sunflower until a few On the Jones County dairy farm where we grew up, the weeks before Easter. One Sunday evening at youth meeting livestock and chickens were allowed to roam freely before Brother Ed asked us to bring Sunflower to church on Palm their succulent protein graced our table. Trout, bream, and Sunday. He said he was casting our donkey in the pageant. catfish thrived in the large spring-fed lake in front of our We attempted to explain that Sunflower was not allowed house and in the small ponds dammed along the hollows outside his fence and even if our parents gave us permission in the pastures. Fishing provided our parents, brothers, and to take Sunflower to church, he would not want to be a part neighbors many hours of escape from the drudgery of farm of the pageant. Brother Ed said, "Now, don't be selfish. You life and their 'catch of the day' added variety to our meals and eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 47

were celebrated at community fish fries.

My parents never considered their agricultural endeavors a program similar to the presently popular "farm-to-table" movement. Without time for movements, their efforts, similar to their neighbors, successfully sustained us and helped provide for the less fortunate during the South's slow recovery from the Great Depression. Their efforts not only provided the protein in our diet, they also grew all the vegetables and fruits consumed.

We never raised sheep on our farm. If Mother had not insisted on serving leg of lamb at Easter, we probably would not have ever experienced its savory taste. Our father said sheep had to be watched too closely to be pastured with cattle.

Located off the Gitano-Hebron Road several miles below our farm and down a winding rarely traveled trail near the Leaf River, an elderly couple tended a few sheep. Each spring just a few days before Easter, our father would acquire a lamb through one of the oldest legal methods of transferring property. He swapped (or bartered) a veal calf for a lamb. Mother wrapped most of the meat and stored it in the freezer except for the legs of lamb she prepared for our Easter Brunch.

Father removed the bone and Mother rubbed the inside with fresh rosemary and tarragon. She peeled and sliced 48 • APRIL/MAY 2014

several garlic buds. She cut small slits, being careful not to puncture the outside skin, and poked the garlic deep into the meat. I watched as they rolled the leg back together and Mother held it tight while Father tied it with string. She placed each roast in a glass casserole dish, covered it with heavy sweet cream, replaced the lid and allowed it to marinate in the refrigerator overnight.

During the week prior to Easter, Mother continued to go to the garden every morning. She pulled weeds with her hands and gently loosened the soil around the potatoes and carrots with the hoe. She said the soft soil would encourage the root crops to grow.

That spring we were experiencing what our grandmother referred to as a 'blackberry winter' (temperatures in the 30s after the blackberries bloomed). The cool nights were causing the spring vegetables to mature slowly. I could tell Mother was also keeping an eye on the English peas and tenderly feeling them to see if they were filling out. By the middle of the week, I watched as she dug beneath the Irish potatoes to check their size and heard her say, "They will do." Mother even pulled up a few carrots to see how much they had grown.

However, she appeared most concerned over the straw-

berries being ripe in time for her to bake our strawberry cake.

Each morning she pulled the straw away from the plants and carefully lifted up the stems with small half-ripe berries where they could catch the morning sun. Until I noticed her bent over in the garden one evening while my sister and I were gathering the eggs from the near-by hen house, I did not realize she was pulling the straw back up around the berries at night. It reminded me of the way she pulled our covers up at night when she was tucking us in bed.

It was obvious Easter was an important occasion which required much preparation. During that busy week, Mother also found time to finish hemming and sewing the lace on our new dresses.

When she overheard us continuing to laugh about Sunflower bucking off Brother Ed, she stopped and reminded us that this was the week to be thinking of what Jesus had done for us. I just never could bring myself to tell my mother how difficult it was for me to keep from thinking about what Sunflower had done to Brother Ed. Although Mother was already extremely busy, Good Friday was the day she always planted the speckled-butter beans, Dixie Lee peas, and crooked-neck squash.

On Saturday morning, Grandmother walked up the hill and sat beside the sunny kitchen window as she churned until sweet butter formed on the handle of the dasher. Mother gathered and seasoned the soft butter with herbs. When the favorable butter cooled, she molded it and set it aside to serve the next day with the biscuits and mint jelly.

By Saturday afternoon, Mother had dug and washed the potatoes and pulled up the carrots. Late in the evening as my sister and I were gathering the eggs, I noticed Mother was picking a few of her precious strawberries as she was also settling the straw back around the plants.

Before we went to bed on Saturday night, I counted seven ripe strawberries in a small crystal dish on the kitchen counter and reported the number to Mother. She hugged me and said, "Now, don't you worry. I will check for more ripe berries in the morning."

Mother's cake recipe called for a cup of minced berries.

However, early on Easter morning my sister went to the kitchen and came back to our room. She loudly announced that Mother said we had to wear our heavy winter coats over our new dresses to the sunrise service. Then, she bent over and whispered in my ear that she saw Mother adding a pack of Jell-O to the cake batter. Because the oven would melt the Jell-O, we just knew that she had made a mistake!

During Brother Moat’s sermon that morning, it was actually easy for me to keep my mind off of Sunflower bucking Brother Ed. My thoughts kept turning to the sad cake. My sister and I were not looking forward to tasting melted Jell-O and we were anxious over seeing our friends’ disappointment.

We had always been proud of Mother's cakes because they had never failed to taste great, but we had heard of women whose cakes fell and nobody wanted their recipe.

After the sunrise service, our grandmother, Uncle Ike and Aunt Minnie Lee, and their two young sons came home with us. Several other cousins and friends also came to spend the day and help look for eggs. Everyone joined together for brunch.

Evidently Mother found no more strawberries ripe on Easter morning and resorted to flavoring our cake with a pack of Jell-O. She iced it with the seven-minute icing as she had always done and garnished it with the seven ripe berries.

She placed a spoon of sweetened whipped cream on each piece of cake as she served it and topped the cream with a thin slice of strawberry. Our cousins and friends’ eyes brightened with their first bites. Mother's strawberry cake was lighter and more delicious than it had ever been when she baked the berries in the batter. Our father said it was the best cake he had ever eaten and Aunt Minnie Lee said, "Bernice, I've got to have this recipe!"

Grandmother said Mother was not only an excellent cook, but she was also resourceful. I didn't fully understand what resourceful meant then; however, nearly seven decades later the meaning is clear.

In the following years, no matter how many strawberries were available, Mother never added them to the cake batter and I never observed her being overly concerned about when the berries would be ripe.

Although, I still use Mother's strawberry cake recipe with Jell-O, I always garnish it with only seven berries. edm

The Sandbank, a Beatrix Potter Collection is housed at the Osher Lifelong Learning Institute (OLLI) on the University of Southern Mississippi campus in Hattiesburg. OLLI is an organization for continued learning in retirement.

The Potter collection consists of a thousand pieces of art, first and early editions, literature, bone china Peter Rabbit Wedgwood, Schmid music boxes, antique Beswick porcelain and is the only entirely Beatrix Potter permanent museum in the U.S. The collection, owned by de Grummond, is offered by OLLI to Hattiesburg and the surrounding communities. It is located in the Peck House, 3601 Pearl St., Hattiesburg, Miss. The exhibit is free and available by appointments for individual showings with or without lecture or for private, club, school, and church group viewings.

For reservations and additional information, call 601-296-1149.

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minutes. Carve in 1/2-inch slices, place on warm plates, and salt.

Top each slice with 1 tablespoon Balsamic Cranberry Sauce or place sauce in gravy boat and set on table.

Serve with Cabernet Sauvignon.

Serves family or 4 couples.

COOK'S NOTE: Over-cooking or seasoning lamb with too much salt affects its taste and moisture content. Although there are many recipes and procedures for preparing and roasting lamb, the one I'm sharing is my family and friends’ favorite.

Balsamic Cranberry Sauce 1/3 cup balsamic vinegar 1/2 cup dried cranberries 1/3 cup honey 3 tablespoons butter 1/4 cup chopped fresh basil 1/2 cup toasted and chopped pecans

Roasted Leg of Lamb 1 (4-pound) boneless leg of lamb 1/2 cup dates 1/2 cup dried cranberries 1/2 cup fresh rosemary (leaves only) 2 tablespoons dried tarragon 2 tablespoons dried thyme 1/2 cup raspberry cream de liquor 1/2 cup torn mint leaves 2 garlic bulbs 1/2 teaspoon black pepper 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt Preheat oven to 400°.

For culinary herb seasoning, place dates, cranberries and fresh torn rosemary leaves in food processor. Pulse until chopped, but not mushed. Add dried tarragon, black pepper, raspberry cream de liquor, and lightly pulse.

Remove leg from netting. Cut away fat. Slice thick meat to open leg flat. Place skin side down on work surface and spread. Make slits in open meat with sharp point of knife, being careful to not puncture outside skin; insert slivers of garlic in slits. Rub with 1/2 of culinary herb seasoning. Do not salt.

Roll lamb (from the smallest edge) and tie at 2-inch intervals with kitchen string. Rub lamb with 2 tablespoons olive oil and remaining culinary herb seasoning. Because salt dehydrates the meat while cooking, sprinkle with kosher salt after roast is carved.

Place on roasting rack with seam side up. Set rack in 4-inch deep roasting pan that is two-inches longer and deeper than rack. Bake 20 minutes; then, lower heat to 325°. Bake, depending on the desired rareness of meat, 6 to 10 minutes per pound. Remove from heat and wrap with foil. The temperature will continue to increase after roast is removed from oven and wrapped in foil to rest. Rest for 15 50 • APRIL/MAY 2014

Over medium heat reduce vinegar to 1/2 volume. Add dried cranberries and remove from heat. Stir in honey and butter. Add basil and pecans. Cover and set aside.

New Potatoes and English Peas in Cream Sauce 5 pounds of new red Irish potatoes 1 tablespoon Kosher salt 1 teaspoon fresh ground white pepper Water Wash and scrub potatoes with brush. Halve or quarter large potatoes. Place in pot large enough to cover with water. Parboil for 10 minutes. Drain and rinse. Replace potatoes in pot, cover with water and simmer for 20 minutes or until only the outside 1/4 inch is tender. Remove from heat and drain. Return potatoes to pot. Salt and pepper, and set aside.

Serves 20 COOK'S NOTE: If overcooked or too salty, much of the fresh taste of new potatoes, English peas and carrots may deteriorate.

Cream Sauce 8 ounces butter 1 cup self-rising flour 2 cups heavy whipping cream 2 cups green peas Melt butter over low heat. Work flour into butter and mix well. Add cream and cook while continuing to stir. Do not brown. Cook approximately 10 minutes, until flour taste is gone. Add green peas and gently turn. Remove from heat. Pour over potatoes and allow to stand 20 minutes before serving.

glazed Carrots 2 pounds baby carrots Water 1/2 stick sweet butter Salt Pepper

ingredients to each bowl and mix. Place on serving dish or mold. Serve at room temperature.

COOK'S NOTE: Although the flavors selected to season butter may vary, the methods are similar. The herbs I chose to season the butters for the spring brunch served in the museum were the ones I had observed growing in Beatrix Potter's Lake District garden-- dill, garlic, parsley and thyme.

Parboil carrots 10 minutes. Drain and rinse. Return to pot, cover with water and simmer over medium heat 15 minutes or until slightly tender. Remove from heat and drain. Return to hot pot. Add butter, salt, and pepper. Cover and allow to stand for 10 minutes before serving warm.

Hand-Rolled Biscuits 6 cups of Sunflower self-rising Flour 2 sticks cold butter 2 cups cold heavy whipping cream Preheat oven to 475-500°. Butter a 12 x 18-inch heavy baking pan and set aside. Sift flour into 10-12 inch bowl.

Shave butter on top of flour in the center of the bowl. By pinching with the fingertips of one hand, work the butter into the top half (3 cups) of the flour. Hollow a 2-cup well in the center of the flour and butter mixture. Pour cream into well. Starting at the outer edge of the circle of cream, continue to use the pinching motion with fingertips to work the cream into the flour and butter mixture. Only incorporate enough of the extra flour in the bowl to make the dough hold together. (Excess flour, handling, and rolling toughens the dough). Remove dough from hands and flour hands afresh before rolling biscuits. Pinch off a golfball sized piece of dough, place lump of dough in palm of opposite hand and roll into a smooth round ball. Place on buttered cookie sheet. Space 1-inch apart. After all dough is rolled into balls, using the back of fingers gently press round dough down 1/2-inch. Bake in center of oven for 20 to 25 minutes or until golden brown. Butter and serve while hot.

Makes 2 dozen.

COOK'S NOTE: Because I appreciate the feel and memory of Mother's wooden bowl, when making biscuits I usually use her old hollowed out piece of wood. However, the 2 or 2-1/2 cups of flour remaining in the bowl should be sifted and stored in an air-tight container.

I only use the cookie sheet when baking two dozen biscuits. I prefer my smaller flat-bottomed cast-iron skillet.

Herb Butter 1 teaspoon dried dill 1 teaspoon garlic salt 1 teaspoon chopped parsley, fresh or dried 1 teaspoon minced thyme, fresh or dried 1 pound unsalted butter With butter at room temperature, place quarters in small separate mixing bowls. Add only one of the above

Mother's Strawberry Cake 2 cups sugar 1 cup unsalted butter 4 large red eggs 2-3/4 cups plain flour 2-1/2 teaspoons baking powder 1 (3 ounce) package strawberry Jell-O 1 cup heavy whipping cream 1 tablespoon vanilla flavoring 24 ounces whipped cream cheese 1-1/2 cups powdered sugar Whipped topping Strawberries Bring butter, eggs, and whipping cream to room temperature. Butter and flour two 9-inch cake pans and set aside. Preheat oven to 350°. Cream butter and sugar in large mixing bowl. Add eggs one at a time and beat well.

In a separate bowl, sift flour and baking powder together; then add Jell- O. Gradually add dry ingredients to creamed mixture alternately with cream. Mix well and add vanilla.

Divide batter between prepared cake pans. Place on top oven rack. Bake 30-35 minutes or until a tooth pick inserted in the middle comes out clean. Invert pans on metal rack and allow to cool 12 minutes before removing the pans.

Cool completely.

For frosting, mix cream cheese and powdered sugar well. Spread a thin layer between layers and use remaining on outside of cake. To serve, top with whipped topping and sliced strawberries.

COOK'S NOTE: Mix two batters for a 4-layer cake. I use this cream cheese frosting instead of the seven-minute icing my mother used. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 51

Coming Soon!

Your restaurant can be showcased by region in our new restaurant guide!

52 APRIL/MAY 2014

The Hills

The Delta The Pines

Capital/River

Coastal

, MS

Make sure you're included!

Contact your advertising executive today!

SHIVERS

Shivers Creek Fish House 618 Highway 43 S., Shivers 601.847.1700 For great food and great service, pay a visit to Shivers Creek Fish House. You can enjoy delicious appetizers, po boys, sandwiches, salads, fish, seafood, steaks, and chicken. While you're there, don't forget to try one of their homemade desserts like White Chocolate Bread Pudding, Red Velvet Cake, or Coconut Cake. Take a road trip to Shivers and see why everyone raves about their turnip greens and hush puppies. You'll be glad you did.

For more information or to reserve your space, contact one of our advertising executives today!

Ann Nichols - North, Central, South Mississippi 601.906.0187 • ann@eatdrinkmississippi.com

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI

Amelia Perdomo - Gulf Coast 228.223.4258 • amelia@eatdrinkmississippi.com

www.eatdrinkmississippi.com eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 53

54 • APRIL/MAY 2014

A Comfortable Kitchen eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 55

56 • APRIL/MAY 2014

story By Lisa LaFontaine Bynum | photography by divian conner

W

hen empty nesters Doug and Sheila Estes of Columbus embarked on building a new house, they knew they wanted to design a kitchen that would truly be the heart of their home. The couple loves to spend time with family and friends and wanted to create a warm and inviting space where the kids could come home to and where they could invite their friends.

Penny Bowen, of Penny Bowen Design, Inc., was asked to create a space that was functional, comfortable, and reminiscent of an upscale European lodge. The homeowners also wanted the kitchen and living areas to be open to one another.

“That means we had to really dress up the kitchen,” Bowen explains. “With an open plan, you can’t have a lot of clutter. Everything has to have a place.”

You also need a focal point, which is achieved through the gleaming, handcrafted copper vent-a-hood positioned over a stainless steel 36-inch gas range and warming drawer directly underneath. Yellow river granite was chosen for the threads of brown and copper that run throughout. Elegant tile in a complimentary color pattern was used for the backsplash.

Beautiful dark espresso cabinets compliment the décor in the rest of the home. Under cabinet lighting adds an additional touch of ambience. Because Sheila enjoys cooking, two stainless steel ovens were installed along with coordinating stainless refrigerator, dishwasher, and microwave. Finally, cream colored porcelain tiles in a random pattern were chosen for the floor.

Even though The Esteses wanted the rooms to be open, Bowen still wanted to create a separation between the kitchen and the living area. Since the Esteses' living room featured 12-foot vaulted ceilings, Bowen created a low bulkhead over the kitchen. The threshold from the kitchen gently curves into the living room, allowing the kitchen to flow. Finally, the entire room is rounded out with a bar area accented with six Jan Barbogolio swivel metal barstools with dark leather seats.

“The bar area gets a lot of use,” Bowen adds. “Guests enjoy sitting and talking to Sheila while she cooks. The homeowners really wanted a look that was comfortable where their guests would feel at home. I think we definitely achieved this.” edm

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{ in the bloglight }

Crider Combines Passions into Tasty Blog

K

STORY BY KELSEY WELLS | PHOTOS SUBMITTED

asia Crider, a Monticello native who now lives in Clinton and works at Mississippi College, is using her talents in writing and cooking to create a fantastic new food blog called “Kasia’s Kitchen.” Crider grew up in a single parent home and began cooking at an early age, sharing responsibilities with her brother. Though the meals she prepared were simple, they sparked her interest in cooking, and even as a young girl she always wanted to provide her share at the church potluck dinners and other events. When a young mother exclaimed over her oatmeal cookie recipe at one such event, Crider knew that she had found her passion.

Though she received her Bachelor’s degree in Social Work from Mississippi College and attended seminary at New Orleans Baptist Theological Seminary, Crider continued her cooking 58 APRIL/MAY 2014

experiments throughout college. One of the most trying times in her life was when she lived in a dorm with only a microwave and limited access to a community kitchen. After college, she continued to experiment with new dishes and her love for cooking quickly escalated even more.

“Baking so quickly became an obsession, a form of stress relief, and my love for cooking and baking was at a complete head over heels status,” she said.

While she was in college, Crider discovered another passion - writing. She used a then-popular form of blogging known as Xanga to post for stress relief. When she saw how relaxing both writing and cooking could be for her, she combined the two into a food blog that now has an average of 7,000 views per month and over 130,000 total views. Since she lives in her kitchen, Crider's blog

Kasia Crider is filled with recipes, weekly meal plans, do-it-yourself ideas and crafts, and an occasional personal reflection.

Though she is thrilled with the blog’s success, Crider stresses that she gets just as much out of the blog as her readers.

“I love it. It relieves stress; I like to share my life; and I love cooking,” she said.

Crider plans to continue

blogging until she runs out of words (and as a naturally garrulous person, that isn’t likely to happen soon.) She even sells her baked goods through her blog. She hopes that through her blog, she can continue to share her passions for writing and cooking with others and even work in a career involving writing or cooking. edm

CHOCOLATE CHIP BREAD PUDDING 7-8 cups of cubed bread 4 tablespoons of light butter, melted 2 tablespoons brown sugar 2 tablespoons vanilla 1 1/4 cup semi-sweet chocolate chips 1 can (1 1/2 cups) fat free evaporated milk 1 1/2 cups skim milk 4 large eggs 1 cup sugar Preheat oven to 350°.

If your bread feels too soft and not quite stale enough, pop in the oven for a few minutes until it feels like stale bread. Spray a 9 x 13 casserole dish with cooking spray and fill it with the bread cubes and chocolate chips, shaking to disperse chocolate chips and bread evenly.

Whisk together melted butter, brown sugar, vanilla, fat free evaporated milk, skim milk, vanilla, and eggs.

Stir in sugar until dissolved.

Pour liquid mixture over bread cubes.

Use both hands to mix the bread, liquid, and chocolate chips together. It helps disperse the chocolate chips and keeps them from settling in the bottom and helps the bread start to meld together. It should feel squishy and wet to the touch.

Bake in oven for about an hour until golden brown and the center is set. Check at 45 minutes. When you shake it, if it still jiggles it's not ready. Poke holes in bread pudding with a drinking straw when it comes out and pour a few tablespoons of the coffee cinnamon sauce over it. Slice into squares and serve with extra sauce. Whipped cream is also a good addition.

COFFEE CINNAMON SAUCE 1 cup brown sugar 1/2 cup coffee 1/2 cup evaporated milk 4 tablespoons light butter 1 tablespoon vanilla 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon instant coffee powder 1 teaspoon cornstarch

Melt butter and brown sugar together in a saucepan over medium heat until bubbly. Add in coffee, instant coffee powder, cinnamon, and cornstarch.

Whisk together until com-

bined. Stir in evaporated milk. Continue to whisk, letting it very softly bubble, until it begins to thicken some. Set aside while bread pudding cooks.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 59

{ from mississippi to beyond }

Designing Dessert Delicacies: Chef Brett Gauthier

60 APRIL/MAY 2014

New Orleans Style

story By Kathy K. Martin | photos submitted

S

pending his high school years in Long Beach and working in area restaurants set Brett Gauthier on a culinary course to New Orleans and his job today as the first executive pastry chef of the Ralph Brennan Restaurant Group.

“From my first job in the kitchen, cooking has seemed very natural to me,” he says, “and I’ve been able to be successful and enjoy myself, too.”

His first job was as a dishwasher at Chappy’s Seafood Restaurant, which was unfortunately devastated in Hurricane Katrina. Gauthier recalled that the owner, John Chapman, often came through the restaurant’s back door with large containers overflowing with fresh fruit and vegetables from his farm. Gauthier says that he didn’t realize then how special it is to use such fresh, seasonal ingredients, but he sees this in today’s finest restaurants that make a point to have their own gardens. He worked for some time in Mississippi restaurant kitchens and was trained in Creole and Southern cuisine.

Later, he attended culinary school at Johnson & Wales University in Miami and realized that pastry was his favorite means of expressing his creativity. “There was something about the chemistry of baking a crème anglaise and how the

simple ingredients of egg yolks, sugar, and cream create this wonderful custard. It was magical to me.”

After that, he followed his mentor and acclaimed Filipino chef Rommel Pacheco to San Francisco and worked as an apprentice. He also worked for a catering company and then moved to the Four Seasons and Fairmont Hotel. After many hours of work and fewer hours of sleep, Gauthier and his wife, Thendai, decided that with a new baby in their busy life, they wanted to move closer to their family in Mississippi. They settled in South Carolina, where he found a chef job at Bateaux. After that, he worked at The Inn at Little Washington in Virginia as a pastry chef to Patrick O’Connell, who is one of Gauthier's role models, before moving to New Orleans.

In his role as executive pastry chef for the past two years, Gauthier creates unconventional desserts for the group’s five restaurants in New Orleans: Café b, Café NOMA, Heritage Grill, Ralph’s on the Park, and Red Fish Grill. “I’m very fortunate that much of my time is spent creating desserts and my craft has greatly developed in my time here,” he says, adding, “Each restaurant’s dessert menu changes often and our goal is to make each better than the last.” eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 61

Right now he’s inspired by the satsuma, a fruit similar to the mandarin that’s unique to the area. He uses the fruit to create an intense Satsuma Granite that he serves with a lemon posset and fresh Louisiana citrus. Using ingredients that grow in their season is important to Gauthier, such as strawberry season, which will be incorporated into his dessert menus until around Mother’s Day. However, he says, “You never really know what Mother Nature has in mind.” With that plan in place, he is looking forward to offering guests his Strawberry Lemon Icebox Pie with a graham cracker crust and

topped with strawberry Bavarian cream and fresh Louisiana strawberries.

Now that Gauthier has two daughters, Lindiwe and Thandeka, ages two and six, he also finds time to cook at home. “We enjoy our time spent together cooking, but I also use it as an opportunity to teach them about the science and math aspects and critical-thinking skills.” With a small vegetable garden at their home, Gauthier says, “Nurturing the garden together makes the experience even more meaningful.” edm

Strawberry Lemon Ice Box Pie

To hydrate gelatin powder: in a small bowl with 2 tablespoons of water sprinkle powdered gelatin. Let mixture sit for 5 minutes before using. When strawberry mixture reaches 1650 F remove from heat and add hydrated gelatin. Mix and set aside to cool to about 1000 F. Whip cream to soft peaks. Fold into cooled strawberry mixture. Pour Strawberry Bavarian cream on top of cooled lemon pie.

Allow 8 hours in the refrigerator for the gelatin to set up before unmolding.

Brett Gauthier Executive Pasty Chef, Ralph Brennan Restaurant Group

Serves 10-12 people. Garnish pie with sliced fresh strawberries and whip cream.

Graham Cracker Crust 2-1/2 cups graham cracker crumbs 2 tablespoons sugar 1/4 teaspoon salt Mix graham crumbs, sugar and salt. Melt butter and add to crumb mixture. Coat 9" spring form pan with nonstick spray. Working around the sides first, tightly pack crumb mixture 3/4 up the side of the pan. When sides are done sprinkle even layer of crumb on the bottom of pan.

Tightly pack.

Lemon Ice Box Pie Filling 2 cups sweetened condensed milk 7 egg yolks 3/4 cup lemon juice Combine all the ingredients in a mixing bowl. Mix until smooth. Pour filling into prepared pie crust. Bake at 3250 F for 30 minutes.

Strawberry Bavarian Cream 1 cup strawberry puree 2 egg yolks 3/4 cup sugar 2 drops red food coloring 1-1/4 teaspoon gelatin powder plus 2 tablespoons cold water to hydrate 1 cup cream Purée strawberries in a blender until completely smooth. Combine strawberry puree with sugar, yolks and salt, place bowl over a pot of hot simmering water and cook to 1650 F. Stir mixture occasional while cooking.

62 • APRIL/MAY 2014

Soft Baked Double Chocolate Pecan Cookies Brett Gauthier Executive Pastry Chef, Ralph Brennan Restaurant Group

2-1/2 cups butter, room temperature 1-1/3 cup sugar 2 cups brown sugar 2 eggs 2 egg yolks 6 tablespoons milk 3-1/2 cups bread flour 1-1/3 cup cocoa powder 4 teaspoons baking soda 2 cups pecan pieces 2 cups chocolate chunk pieces 1 teaspoon salt Combine flour, cocoa powder and baking soda. Set aside. Combine butter and sugars in mixing bowl and cream with paddle until light and fluffy. Add eggs and milk and continue to beat until they are well combined, about 1 minute. Add flour mixture to the butter mixture in 3 stages. Incorporate flour completely before adding more flour. When all flour is incorporated mix on medium high speed for 30 seconds. Add nuts and chocolate chunks and mix briefly, only until incorporated. Scoop 1-ounce portions on parchment lined sheet pan. Press down with hands rounded cookie dough scoops to flatten slightly. Bake cookies at 3250 for 5 minutes then spin sheet pan and bake for 2 more minutes.

Makes 3 dozen cookies

Cooking from the Heart

{ from the bookshelf }

MY FAVORITE LESSONS LEARNED ALONG THE WAY Author: John Besh

Publisher: Andrews McMeel Publishing

J

ohn Besh may be a common name in New Orleans and all over the culinary world, but this once Mississippian has his roots firmly planted in the tastes of southern Louisiana.

Besh works as not only a chef, operating nine acclaimed restaurants, but also as a philanthropist and author. His newest volume Cooking from the Heart: My Favorite Lessons Learned Along the Way documents what Besh considers to be the greatest lessons he has learned during his years in the culinary world. He dedicates the book to those who taught him not only to cook, but how to live life.

This is no ordinary cookbook. The hardback volume contains nearly three hundred pages of personal stories, stunning photography from the past and present, and step by step instructions with pictures to illustrate any unfamiliar cooking techniques. It has been called “the next best thing to an apprenticeship with Chef John Besh.”

What would any Southern cookbook be without wild game recipes? The first chapter of the book, "Lessons of the Hunt," takes the cook to the forests of Germany, where he learns to make delectable dishes such as Country Paté and Duck Confit. Besh continues his journey through life and cooking lessons with fish recipes from basic fish and shrimp stocks to beautifully illustrated cooking lessons featuring Squid with Spaghetti and Bottarga and Roasted Sea Bass ProvenÇal.

Also featured are mouth-watering vegetable recipes that make ordinary greens culinary experiences. Just a few include Fried Kale Salad, Roasted Brussels Sprout Salad, and Dandelion Greens and Arugula with Walnut Oil Vinaigrette. Though some of the ingredients may seem a bit unusual, photography through all the chapters makes the reader eager to try new cooking techniques and foods.

"Not Just a Potato" and "Vegetable Love" chapters take these simple, relatively inexpensive foods and create potato salad, Potato Gnocchi, and grilled vegetable dishes that are sure to please yet can be prepared rather easily.

"Curiosity and the Cook" offers recipes that Besh and his wife experienced while traveling in Europe. "Anchovies and Orange Peels" and "Mussel Madness in Marseilles" document the recipes and lessons Besh learned as he studied under Chef Chris Kerigeorgiou, along with Slow-Cooked Tender Tripe to Mussel and Swiss Chard Soup.

"The Art of the Table" focuses on using small touches to make everyday meals memorable experiences. From sauces to add a gourmet touch to ordinary food to fried squash blossoms, Besh makes exciting meals from easily accessible ingredients.

The final two chapters, "A Proper Bouillabaisse and More Soup Lessons" and "Fruits, Nuts, and Cheese" end the volume by demonstrating basic stocks to start a meal and tasty desserts to end one.

Cooking from the Heart illustrates not only cooking techniques that will make you feel like a pro, but also the effect that cooking, teaching, and learning can have on a person's life. edm

PHOTO BY MAURAMCEVOY

jennifer's cucumber & tomato salad 1 clove garlic, finely chopped 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar 2 tablespoons olive oil Salt Freshly ground black pepper 4 Persian cucumbers, peeled and cubed 1 pint cherry tomatoes of different colors, halved 1/2 small red onion, diced Leaves from 2 sprigs fresh basil Leaves from 2 sprigs fresh parsley Leaves from 2 sprigs fresh thyme Pinch red pepper flakes For the vinaigrette, whisk together the garlic, vinegar, and oil; season with salt and black pepper. Combine the cucumbers, tomatoes, onion, basil, parsley, and thyme in a large bowl.

Season with salt, black pepper, and a pinch of red pepper. Stir in the vinaigrette and let the flavors marinate for 30 minutes before serving.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 63

{ what's hot }

What the Kale?

In a recent issue, we told you about the rising popularity of the superfood quinoa. Another superfood, kale, has been getting a lot of buzz lately. Kale is packed with nutrients, including Vitamin C and calcium.

It has been popping up on menus and grocery shelves across the land in the form of kale chips, kale pasta, kale

juice, fried kale, kale ice cream, and more. Some even call it the new bacon.

This recipe from Lorie Roach combines these two popular superfoods in a way you're sure to love. The addition of balsamic bacon butter puts it over the top.

KALE WITH BALSAMIC BACON BUTTER AND QUINOA 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon butter 1 medium to large onion, chopped 2-3 teaspoons minced garlic 1 (10-ounce) bag shredded kale with balsamic bacon butter (found by the salad mixes) 1/4 cup water 3-5 cups cooked quinoa (1 cup quinoa yields 3 cups cooked) Kosher salt and coarsely ground black pepper

Place the extra virgin olive oil and 1 tablespoon butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add onion when butter is melted. Cook until golden brown, about 10 minutes, stirring often. Add the garlic, then add the bag of kale with balsamic butter. Add a 1/4 cup of water to the skillet and place a lid on top. Cook for about 10-12 minutes until kale is tender, stirring several times. Remove from heat and stir in the cooked quinoa. Add salt and pepper to taste.

For more of Lorie's delicious recipes, visit loriesmississippikitchen.com.

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Lorie Roach Buckatunna

The Warehouse, Hey Joe'Cleveland s, Mosquito Burrito -

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Harmon's Paris

The Hills The Delta -

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Restaurant Tyler Starkville

Chucklet & Honey -

The Pines

Flowood

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Capital/River

Our wonderful state is divided into five travel regions - The Hills, The Delta, The Pines, Capital/River, and Coastal. It is our goal to give equal coverage to all regions of the state in every issue. The following sections are color coded by region for your convenience. We hope you will take the time and travel to all regions to take advantage of the diverse culinary styles present throughout our state.

We do suggest that you call to verify operating hours before visiting any of these wonderful establishments.

Vestige -

Ocean Springs

Coastal

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 65

The Hills • The Hills • The Hills • The Hills • The Hills • The Hills • The Hills • The Hills

Sit Down to a Family Supper in Paris

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S

Story by Liz Barrett Photography by Liz Barrett and Harmon’s Restaurant

tepping into Harmon’s, a cozy restaurant just off Highway 9 in Paris, Mississippi, with handmade tables and chairs, evokes feelings of Sunday supper at grandma’s house. The aroma of catfish and steak drifts from the kitchen as an array of delectable cakes and cookies in the entryway begs for you to save room.

While it may not be your own mother who steps out of the kitchen, you’ll certainly be greeted by someone from the long line of Harmons who have run this family restaurant for more than 30 years. Recently

revived by granddaughter Lisa Morris Coleman and her husband Robert Coleman, Harmon’s was originally a produce stand, built next door to the home of Lisa’s grandparents, Lottie Fay Harmon and Marton Harmon, a WWII and Korean War veteran, back in the 1960s. “I still remember, as a kid, helping to polish every apple that went into the fruit baskets,” says Lisa. “My grandfather always wanted everything to be perfect. To this day, I still ask myself, ‘What would my grandfather do?’ I just want to make him and my grandmother proud.”

In the late 1970s, Marton decided to expand his business and start selling catfish, beef stew and chili from a kitchen window in the grocery store.

In 1981, against wife Lottie Fay’s advice, Marton opened Harmon’s Restaurant, kicking things off with a huge fish fry. The restaurant was an instant success, and became known as the go-to spot for a plate of catfish, hush puppies and coleslaw. Despite her initial veto of the restaurant, Lottie Fay ran the place right alongside Marton, taking over the reins in 1991 when Marton passed away. At 79, she eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 67

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BELOW - Robert and Lisa Morris Coleman

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thick Texas toast; Philly cheese steaks smothered with sautéed onions, mushrooms and provolone cheese; teriyaki chicken with grilled pineapple; and a 10-ounce hamburger steak topped with gravy, mushrooms and onions. All are accompanied by a choice of baked potato, fries or salad bar. In addition, appetizer and entrée specials ranging from barbecue nachos to pork tenderloin rotate out each week.

Desserts are made by Lisa’s mom, Maxine Morris, who can be found greeting and chatting with Harmon’s guests on Friday and Saturday nights.

Favorite desserts include the Reece’s cake, strawberry cake and sugar cookies, along with many others which change out weekly.

Regardless of what you order at Harmon’s, it always arrives at the table with a helping of warmth and hospitality. After all, when you’re dining in a restaurant that’s been passed down through the generations, and still receives daily visits from grandma, you can’t help but feel the love. edm Harmon’s Restaurant 773 Highway 9 W, Paris 662.473.4083

Reece’s Cake Chocolate Cake 2 cups flour 2 cups sugar 1/2 cup Hershey’s cocoa 1/2 cup melted milk chocolate chips 2 teaspoons baking soda 1 teaspoon baking powder 2 large eggs 1 teaspoon salt 1 cup buttermilk 1 cup Crisco oil 1-1/2 teaspoons vanilla 1 cup hot water Preheat oven to 300° F (this is a slow-bake cake). Combine all ingredients, except hot water, into mixer.

Mix at medium speed until blended smooth. Pour in hot water and mix until smooth. Pour into two 8-inch round, greased, cake pans. Bake for 45 minutes. Allow to cool before frosting.

Peanut Butter Frosting 1 cup creamy peanut butter (Jif suggested) 1/2 cup softened butter 2 cups confectioner’s sugar 3 tablespoons milk (more if needed) Elizabeth Byars and Lottie Fay Harmon

Marton Harmon

photos on this page submitted by harmon's restaurant

Mix peanut butter and butter in mixer on medium. Gradually add in sugar. When mixture begins to thicken, add a tablespoon of milk at a time until all of the sugar is mixed in and the frosting is thick and spreadable. Beat for at least three minutes to make fluffy. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 69

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still checks in on the restaurant every day from her home next door, which she shares with her mother, Elizabeth Byars.

When Lisa and Robert took over Harmon’s in December of 2013, the restaurant menu was revamped, but some very important family—and community—favorites remained. “We kept the original catfish, hush puppies and coleslaw on the menu,” says Lisa.

“It was important for us to keep those items. Everything else is new, including the steaks that we cook on a new charcoal grill; hand-battered onion rings and pickles; hand-cut fries and more. We try our best to serve everything fresh and homemade.”

Adding to the fresh offerings is a salad bar filled with an array of vegetables and homemade dressings.

“We weren’t sure about bringing the salad bar back when we reopened the restaurant,” says Lisa. “But so many people wanted it, that we had to have it; we’ve even received requests for new items that we’ve added since we opened in December.”

Along with the always-popular catfish (whole or filet) and the charcoal-grilled steaks, Harmon’s serves up ribeye steak sandwiches on

The Delta • The Delta • The Delta • The Delta • The Delta • The Delta • The Delta • The Delta

Everything Old Is New Again story By Anne Martin

T

he town of Cleveland is nestled at the crossroads of U.S. Highway 82 and Mississippi Highway 8 in Bolivar County. During the past several years, like many Delta communities, it has seen a decline in population, but unlike a lot of neighboring towns, its downtown has remained vibrant and active. Raymond Huerta, who owns a construction company, is credited with helping the economic boom

70 • APRIL/MAY 2014

in the community. He has restored a number of buildings, including transforming an old hotel into condos and turning decaying buildings into popular restaurants.

The Warehouse, Hey Joe’s and Mosquito Burrito are all part of the Huerta family, offering customers a different taste and atmosphere at each location while saving a bit of Cleveland history in the process.

Shrimp and Grits

Catfish topped with crawfish sauce and served over Delta Grind grits - photo by anne martin

Homemade Chocolate Mousse Cake

The Warehouse It’s been 12 years since Raymond Huerta and his brotherin-law Scott Speakes thought it would be a good idea to open a restaurant in an old warehouse in Cleveland. They wanted to serve good food at a good price in a friendly atmosphere.

Now, all these years later, the idea is still a good one.

“We started small, about 30 seats. Now we can accommodate 140 customers at one time sitting down for a meal,” Speakes said.

The menu has changed slightly over the years adding new items and expanding from just serving lunch to offering dinner a few years ago. “Our lunch crowd has always been good, so we eventually decided to open at night,” Speakes added.

“The night crowd has been just as great.”

The restaurant is located in the old Goyer Wholesale Grocery warehouse which later was home to Sanders Seed.

After standing vacant for years, Huerta and Speakes thought it would be the perfect home for their new venture.

“We had this idea to renovate this old building that was falling apart; to start revitalization in Cleveland,” Speakes said. “There aren’t too many old buildings around downtown, so it was important to save this one.”

Speakes says a lot of customers will come into the building and reminisce about one of the former businesses and love to see what it has become. “We’ve taken a bit of the past, added a big dose of the present and hope to take it well into the future,” Speakes added. “When folks walk in here, they feel like they have taken a mental trip for an hour; taken a

trip to the city without leaving town.”

The lunch menu offers a wide variety of salads, soups, and sandwiches served on gourmet breads along with great desserts. The Chicken Caesar Salad is a favorite, as is The Warehouse Burger, made of lean ground beef topped with smoked apple wood bacon, onion, cheddar cheese, lettuce, tomato, and barbecue sauce.

For dinner, Shrimp and Grits has long been a favorite along with Parmesan Encrusted Catfish over Grits. Speakes says it is all in the grist, using only Delta Grind Grits. Fresh salmon and grilled-to-order steaks are also popular. One of the most requested appetizers is Fried Eggplant sprinkled with confectioners’ sugar and served with barbecue sauce.

Warehouse Fries are also popular, served smothered in cheese and gravy.

A full bar offers any libation customers may desire, including seasonal cocktails.

Speakes says he works to keep the menu fresh, fun and exciting for customers. “Creating new dishes is the fun part.

We just want the folks who visit us to have a great time and a great meal.”

The Warehouse 229 N. Sharpe Ave., Cleveland 662.846.7223 www.eatwarehouse.com eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 71

The Delta • The Delta • The Delta • The Delta • The Delta • The Delta • The Delta • The Delta

Choice Aged Beef Cut by Buckhead

The Delta • The Delta • The Delta • The Delta • The Delta • The Delta • The Delta • The Delta

photo by anne martin

A recent "Burger of the Month" - a half pound Joe Burger with fried oysters, melted mozzarella and fontina cheese, applewood smoked bacon, spinach, lemon pepper mayo, and tomatoes. photo by rory doyle

Hey Joe’s

Across the parking lot from The Warehouse is another Huerta restaurant offering a different atmosphere and owned by a different Huerta. Justin Huerta, Raymond’s son, offers a fun, funky place for gourmet burgers, live music and craft beer.

The building was once home to John Deere and later a pawn shop. Now students, families and area residents can enjoy lunch or a night out.

“I wanted to open a place that was small, family oriented, and made good burgers,” Huerta said. “I wanted to be good at one thing - burgers.

The burger is so important that every month a different specialty burger is offered. During the month of February, the Lamb Burger was featured. Fresh ground lamb was topped with onions, ginger, scallions, zucchini, house seasoning, mint, lime, and a Greek yogurt sauce. “Every month is different. We will sit around and bounce ideas off one another until we come up with something we like,” Huerta said of coming up with the different burgers each month.

The special burgers aren’t the only burgers offered. The Kevin Bacon is one of their top sellers. It’s a burger topped with two slices of smoked apple wood bacon, fully dressed with choice of American, pepper jack, cheddar, Swiss, or provolone cheese.

The Terminator is another crowd pleaser. It’s the basic Joe Burger garnished with lettuce, tomato, onion, pickle, mayo and mustard with the addition of diced jalapeños, onions, shredded cheddar cheese, and topped with bacon.

While most burgers are listed at 8.5 ounces of fresh, never frozen beef (that’s 8 ounces of meat and a half ounce 72 • APRIL/MAY 2014

of Hey Joe’s top secret seasoning), the Khan Burger is Frank’s Xtra Red Hot infused one half pound Joe Burger with grilled sliced jalapeños, melted provolone cheese, and topped with barbecue sauce.

There is also a variety of sandwiches from the Ethelmarinated or grilled chicken with grilled onions, bacon, provolone cheese, lettuce, and wine and cheese sauce wrapped in a roasted garlic tortilla to the Club or Gyro to the Sasquatch - grilled chicken breast, basil pesto, grilled onion, melted Provolone cheese, Feta cheese, mixed greens, and tomato wrapped in a roasted garlic tortilla.

A variety of hot dogs, salads, sliders, and appetizers are also on the menu.

The fun doesn’t end with the food. Hey Joe’s is dedicated to serving Mississippi craft beers. “We like to support the craft beers brewed here in our state,” Huerta said. “We serve as many as possible and rotate what is being offered.”

The 30-year-old Huerta said he wanted to offer a place where the family could enjoy a night out, but local college students from Delta State University are equally at home.

That includes the outdoors where patrons can watch movies or sporting events. During the summer months on nights when live music is offered, a hot dog stand is set up after the kitchen closes.

“This is my baby. I just want to see her continue to grow and thrive.”

Hey Joe’s 118 E. Sunflower Road, Cleveland 662.843.5425

Mosquito Burrito In addition to traditional salsa, roasted red pepper salsa and jalapeño salsa are customer favorites.

“You can come in here, get your food quick at an affordable price,” said manager Marisol Doyle. “We get the business folks during the day and the students and family at night.”

A selection of Mexican beers complements the Tex-Mex flavors as does the Mexican Coke.

Once again, Huerta decided to use an existing building for his newest restaurant. Mosquito Burrito is located in the old Delta Hardware Store. All of the columns and tables in the business are made from reclaimed wood torn out during the renovation of the building.

Mosquito Burrito 301 Cotton Row, Cleveland 662.843.4822 www.mosquitoburritoms.com

photo by rory doyle

Build your own nachos from a variety of fresh ingredients.

Mexican Corn

photo by rory doyle

You can also build your own tacos at Mosquito Burrito.

photo by rory doyle

photo by rory doyle

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 73

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If you look out the front window of Hey Joe’s you will see Justin Huerta’s other restaurant, Mosquito Burrito. Open since December 2011, the newest of the family eateries offers fresh Tex-Mex fare.

Huerta said he wanted to expand downtown, but he wanted to do something different. At Mosquito Burrito, you can build your own tacos, burrito, salad, bowl, or nachos. Tortilla choices include flour, wheat, corn, spinach, or chipotle chile.

Customers then pick a meat: ground beef, steak, pork, grilled chicken, fish, shrimp, or barbacoa - a house marinated, shredded steak slow-roasted with ancho chile, garlic, and house herbs and spices.

More than 20 toppings are available including Spanish rice, refried beans, queso cheese, caramelized onions, roasted red peppers, tomatoes, lettuce, corn salsa, olives, jalapeños, sour cream avocado, and chipotle barbecue sauce.

Then, to top it all off, your choice of a homemade salsa.

The Pines • The Pines • The Pines • The Pines • The Pines • The Pines • The Pines • The Pines

Chicken & Waffle

Chef Ty Thames

74 • APRIL/MAY 2014

Charm c

Rich

Flavor by katie west

R

estaurant Tyler, located in Starkville’s beautiful downtown, is home to high quality food, southern charm, and rich flavor. With a helping hand in the community, if there is something going on in Starkville, you can bet the folks at Restaurant Tyler are participating. Chef Ty and his staff take pride in being a part this tight-knit town and using its resources and harvests in all their delicacies.

Housed in one of the oldest buildings downtown, one can feel a rich history upon entering the restaurant. After a fire ravaged Starkville in 1875 and destroyed the original structure, the building was resurrected in the 1880s, where it became home to Bloomingfield’s General Store. Over 100 years later, Restaurant Tyler opened its doors in May 2008. Inside, its walls are lined with age and local art.

A comfortable, inviting atmosphere to enjoy fine food and drinks, Restaurant Tyler is owned and operated by Mississippi natives Chef Ty Thames and his longtime friend and business partner Brian Kelley. Thames, who was born and raised in Clinton, grew up eating good and loving food. Francis, the live in house mother who helped take care of Thames and his brother, was a huge influence on Thames. “She helped mold who I am today,” Chef Ty says of his fond memories of the woman who taught him the rights and wrongs of southern cooking. “When I did something wrong, she eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 75

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Southern

The Pines • The Pines • The Pines • The Pines • The Pines • The Pines • The Pines • The Pines

Crawdiddy Omelet

Duck Sausage Meatballs

Bacon Wrapped Smoked Catfish Cake with Quail Egg 76 • APRIL/MAY 2014

would tell me she was going to screw me up by my ears!” Cooking helped create a special bond between the two as Thames was growing up. “Cooking was always special in my house,” he says. “It brought everyone together.” Thames went on to graduate with distinction from the prestigious New England Culinary Institute; after which he moved to Italy to study their cuisine. Thames then moved back to the states, where he landed a position at the Ritz Carlton in Washington D.C., but it wasn’t too long before Mississippi started calling him home.

Thames has used his many experiences in different styles of cooking to create the eclectic, unique menu that can always be found at Restaurant Tyler. As the seasons change, so do the offerings. “We do this so we can offer the freshest, local grown ingredients possible,” says Chef Hunter Smith. Open weekdays for lunch, Tuesday-Saturday for dinner, and Sundays for their locally famous brunch, Tyler’s is a place one can visit over and over and not have the same thing twice.

Brunch is definitely the most popular of Tyler’s offerings.

Waffles, omelets, and Eggs Benedict galore make it a difficult choice, but no matter what you decide; you’ll be pleased, especially if you get it with a side of their famous cheese grits. Be sure to pair your brunch with a sweet Mimosa served in a mason jar. Lunch is a flavorful break in the day with po boys, shrimp and grits, and duck (yes, duck) pizza. Also offered for lunch is their daily blue plate.

Delicious pickings such as hamburger steak, delta catfish, and fried pork chops come with homemade sides of vegetables and casseroles. Dinner is where the selections get really interesting. Start things off with the Rabbit Duo; grit grillades alongside a confit of rabbit leg served with a Southern pecan mustard sauce and turnip green pesto. Some more popular appetizers include the housemade bacon wrapped duck sausage meatballs, BBQ fried okra, and Crawfish Dip. For the main course, choose among Pasta and Gnocchi, Lake and Sea, and Land fairings. Bone-in cold-smoked pork chops and seared duck breast are fan favorites as well as the genetically pure Hereford beef in the form of a heart of ribeye or center-cut filet mignon.

Along with their regular menu, Restaurant Tyler offers the “Chef Tasting Menu.” Chef de Cuisine John Fitzgerald takes part in creating this unique menu of specials which changes weekly and with the seasons. The chefs at Tyler also match these dishes with Mississippi-brewed artisan beers that add an extra layer of flavor to any meal. An example from the Chef Tasting Menu is the Sea Trout Omelet; blackened sunburst trout in a farm-fresh egg frittata, topped with green onion and caper pesto and herb tomato salsa paired with the Southern Prohibition Suzy B Dirty Blonde Ale (brewed in Hattiesburg).

After a grand meal, you’ll definitely want to sample a grand dessert. The incredibly talented pastry chef Melissa Gallagher offers a constant variety of deliciousness from stuffed pancakes and fried French toast sandwiches to sweet potato crème brûlée and bacon ice cream.

Be on the lookout for more great things to come out of Restaurant Tyler. “We are really excited about opening a hand-crafted cocktail lounge in the basement of Tyler’s,” says co-owner Brian Kelley. “Think of it as 1930s style; when making a cocktail was an art.” Opening in summer 2014, Restaurant Tyler’s cocktail lounge will concoct unique drinks made out of only the freshest local ingredients.

Thames and Kelley are the proud owners of not only Restaurant Tyler, but three others in Starkville. Zorba's Greek Tavern is located directly above Restaurant Tyler and offers a lunch and dinner menu with Greek flair that can be enjoyed from their balcony, which presents guests with a view of Starkville’s beautiful Main Street. Bin 612 and Rock Bottom Bar & Grill are both located in the historic Cotton District and offer a great place to sit outside and watch Starkville drift by. edm Restaurant Tyler 100 E. Main St., Starkville 662.324.1014 www.eatlocalstarkville.com

Hereford Beef Heart of Ribeye with West Point Duke Pecan Butter

Tiramisu Cake eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 77

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BLT Benedict

Capital/River • Capital/River • Capital/River • Capital/River • Capital/River • Capital/River

The Way the Cookie Crumbles

Sweet Tea Buttercream Cookies

78 APRIL/MAY 2014

Flowood’s Newest Bakery Is Whipping Up Sweet Memories With Sweet Treats STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY LISA LAFONTAINE BYNUM

I

magine coming home from work every night smelling like success.

Sweet success, that is. The moment you step through the glass door of Chucklet & Honey Southern Bakery, your nostrils are filled with the smell of vanilla and fresh baked cookies.

It’s a smell that owner Karen Hargett says follows her home at night.

There are worse things in life than smelling like fresh baked cookies.

Hargett and her two siblings have fond childhood memories of spending time in the kitchen with their mother while growing up in Vicksburg. As a child, Hargett’s brother Chuck went by several nicknames, but Chucklet was his favorite.

Honey was a nickname affectionately bestowed on their mother, Janice.

Those memories would later inspire Chuck to open Chucklet & Honey,

an online, mail order cookie delivery company in Nashville in 2010. The recipes were developed from recipes handed down by Hargett’s mother, grandmother, and great-grandmother. Today, the mail order business ships cookies all over the continental United States.

In 2013, Chuck decided he wanted to pursue other ventures. Hargett and her sister purchased the busieat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 79

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Karen Hargett fulfills an order at her cookie bakery in Flowood.

Capital/River • Capital/River • Capital/River • Capital/River • Capital/River • Capital/River

ness and moved the entire operation to Flowood. Initially, the sisters fully intended to keep the business as a mail order enterprise only and purchased a space to house their bakery.

“While we were working on getting the bakery ready, people would come in and ask if we were planning on opening a store,” says Hargett. “We had no intention of opening a store, but the more people asked, the more we thought maybe we should.”

Chucklet & Honey’s flagship store opened in August 2013. The storefront offers approximately 20 different varieties of cookies including some seasonal items. Some of their best sellers include the tried and true Chucklet & Honey Signature Chocolate Chip, the Mistical Peanut Butter, and the Sweet Tea Buttercream, a recipe developed by Chuck himself. Hargett says her younger customers really enjoy the 80 • APRIL/MAY 2014

Cookie Monster, made by sandwiching homemade buttercream frosting between either two chocolate chip or two M&Ms cookies.

In the six months since the storefront has opened, Hargett says the response has been positive.

“We are still just a cookie company and the majority of our business still comes from mail orders, “ she says, “but we are spreading our wings and looking for new ideas to explore.”

Recognizing a need for healthier options, Chucklet & Honey recently launched Chucklet & Healthy, an extension of their current cookie line that offers lower sugar, gluten-free, and vegan options.

“We have tested all the recipes in this line to make sure they are not only healthier, but they taste good,” Hargett explains. “The taste is really important.” Chucklet & Healthy cookies are

available online at chuckletandhealthy. com and will be available in the storefront in the coming months.

In addition to individual cookies, the Flowood store also provides customized cookie cakes and other options for special events such as baby showers, gender reveal parties, or weddings.

“We really want to become a part of people's lives,” Hargett adds. “We pride ourselves on the fact that our cookies have just the right mix of crispy on the outside, but soft and chewy on the inside. We think once a customer tries one of our cookies for the first time, they will be a customer for life.” edm Chucklet & Honey Southern Bakery 320 Belle Meade Pointe, Flowood 601.398.9827 www.chuckletandhoney.com

Capital/River Coastal • Coastal • Capital/River • Coastal • Coastal • Capital/River • Coastal • Capital/River Coastal • Coastal • Capital/River • Coastal • Coastal • Capital/River • Coastal

ABOVE - Chucklet & Honey's younger customers love their Cookie Monsters - homemade buttercream frosting sandwiched between two chocolate chip or M&Ms cookies.

RIGHT - Chucklet & Honey’s lead baker, Kim, preps ingredients for a new batch of cookies.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 81

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Steak Ribcap aise nn and Lyo s t Pota oe

Duck C

onfit

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Farm-to-Table Fare at Vestige in Ocean Springs

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BY JULIAN BRUNT

arely does a new restaurant hit on all cylinders when the doors first open, but Vestige has nailed it coming right out of the gate. It is a harmonious combination of subtle atmosphere, solid service, and spectacular food.

Chef Alex Perry is a Le Cordon Bleu College graduate, and his classic culinary education shows through in a menu that is as close to perfection as one can get. Expect beautiful plating, colorful garnishes, and a menu that is eclectic, and at the same time steeped in basics.

Vestige is also a farm-to-table restaurant, so look for local micro greens, milk, cream, butter and cheese, as well as the best grits and polenta in the South (which come

from the Original Grit Girl in Oxford, of course). When Chef Alex can't find a local provider, he goes for the best he can find. The pork, beef, and seafood he offers just can't be topped.

Chef Alex's lovely wife, Kumi Perry, runs the front of the house, and does so with a serious attention to detail.

Wrinkle an eyebrow and the chances are that Kumi will be there in a flash to address your concerns.

The menu is seasonal and changes often based on availability. Chef Alex describes it as a modern American and market driven menu. Take special care to look for menu items that are cooked in the Sous-Vide style. Without going into culinary technicalities, this technique produces eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 83

Coastal • Coastal • Coastal • Coastal • Coastal • Coastal • Coastal • Coastal • Coastal • Coastal

From left, Richard Vojtech, Christian Midkiff, Alex Perry, and Zach Midkiff show off the Restaurant of the Year Award Vestige recently received from Ocean Springs Chamber of Commerce.

Capital/River Coastal • Coastal • Capital/River • Coastal • Coastal • Capital/River • Coastal • Capital/River Coastal • Coastal • Capital/River • Coastal • Coastal • Capital/River • Coastal

the most tender and moist results you can imagine. The short ribs are simply the best I have ever encountered, but much of the menu can be described in the same terms.

The Berkshire Pork Chop is a show stopper. It is cooked Sous-Vide and, even though it is close to three inches thick, is fork tender. It is brilliantly paired with sweet potato purée, house made whole grain mustard, and pickled summer vegetables.

The u-10 scallops, that means they are so large there are less than ten per pound, are offered as a small plate. There are just two per serving, but this dish is so good it should not be missed. They are served with roasted eggplant ravioli and lemon beurre monte, an emulsified butter sauce that is the perfect match for the just as perfectly seared scallops.

There's always a beef something on the menu and you will be well served to pay special attention to it. The Rib84 APRIL/MAY 2014

cap Steak is not a cut you will often find, but it is one of the most flavorful and delicious streaks you will ever eat. It is often served with French Lyonnaise potatoes, veal jus, and costata squash.

The 48 hour Sous-Vide cooked short ribs rank in the top two or three things I have ever eaten. No kidding.

Vestige is a culinary adventure that you will long remember and often return to. It is difficult not to use superlatives when describing this Ocean Springs jewel, but I just have to rank it as perhaps the best restaurant in the state. The Ocean Springs Chamber of Commerce agrees and recently awarded Vestige Restaurant of the Year. edm Vestige 715 Washington Avenue, Ocean Springs 228.818.9699 www.vestigerestaurant.com

Coastal • Coastal • Coastal • Coastal • Coastal • Coastal • Coastal • Coastal • Coastal • Coastal

ABOVE - Berkshire Pork Chop ABOVE RIGHT - Buttermilk Chess Pie in a Jar RIGHT - Chocolate Pie in a Jar

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{ calendar }

Fill Your Plate

April/May 2014

Food Festivals & Events

April 5 Jackson Santé South Wine Festival

See our feature on page 24 for more information on this event.

April 7 Jackson - Taste of Mississippi The 27th annual Taste of Mississippi will be held Monday, April 7th from 7 to 10 p.m., at Highland Village. The event will feature culinary delights from 40 fine restaurants, a silent auction and live music by Hunter and The Gators and Pryor Graeber and the Tombstones. All of the proceeds benefit Stewpot Community Services, whose mission is to provide for the needs of the homeless, elderly and disabled in the Jackson metro area. For more information, call 601-3532759 or visit www.tasteofms.org.

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April 12 Starkville - Taste of Starkville The number one thing to do in Starkville is about to happen, and the 2014 Cotton District Arts Festival has not only the best in art but also the best culinary treats for festival-goers to enjoy.

This year’s festival, taking place on Saturday, April 12th, will once again host the highly popular Taste of Starkville competition, which is sure to thrill food lovers galore with the best that local restaurants have to offer. The

Taste of Starkville is focused primarily on locally owned restaurants and chefs providing their own version of street food, with an emphasis on quality and portability. The competition allows local restaurants to showcase their best burgers, pizza, ribs, ice cream, or whatever they feel will catch the judges’ eye. For more information, call 662-324-3080 or visit www.cdafestival.com.

April 12-13

The Pass Christian PoBoy Festival will be held on Saturday, April 12th. The festival features an Easter Egg Hunt, live bands, local art, and poboys of every kind.

The historical Pass Christian’s Annual Blessing of the Fleet will be on Sunday, April 13th at noon in the Harbor with decorated vessels and a classic car cruise.

The Pass Christian PoBoy Festival is a hometown celebration honoring the local favorite food staple - the poboy. Enjoy the great food, local artisans, live entertainment and “pressed and dressed poboys Pass style” all weekend. For more information, call 228-222-2921 or visit www. passchristianpoboyfestival.com.

April 17 Southaven - Taste of DeSoto The Taste of Desoto will be held on April 17th at 5:30 p.m. at the Landers Center. This is a unique food tasting event highlighting the cuisine of approximately 40 restaurants in DeSoto and surrounding counties. This event also features an Iron Chef com-

petition. Tickets are $40 in advance and $45 at the door. The After Party is $20 in advance and $25 at the door. To purchase tickets, visit www.ticketmaster. com. For more information, call 662-634-8332 or visit www. tasteofdesoto.com.

May 1 Vicksburg - A Chocolate Affair This elegant evening will include a plethora of chocolate desserts, drinks, and live entertainment.

The event is at the Southern Cultural Heritage Center. Tickets are available in advance only and are $25 per person for SCHF members and $30 for nonmembers. Tickets are available at the SCHF business office and Paper Plus. For more information, call 601-631-2997 or visit www.southernculture.org.

May 3 Tupelo - Dudie Burger Festival The Annual Dudie Burger Festival is a day of fun, food, music, living history, demonstrations, arts & crafts, and games for kids.

Join in the tribute to the Dudie "Dough" Burger, which was the staple meal for many Tupelonians. Using Dudie Christian's original recipe, cooked in the

May 15 Ocean Springs - Annual Taste of Ocean Springs Food & Wine Festival The Annual Taste of Ocean Springs Food & Wine Festival features “tastes” from more than 20 area restaurants and bars. Come gather underneath the live oaks; enjoy light music

and exceptional “tastes.” The festival will be held from 6:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. Tickets are now on sale. For more information, call 228-875-4424 or visit www. oceanspringschamber.org.

Memphis streetcar converted to iconic diner, step into yesteryear when Americans vividly remember times of rationing and the Cold War. Enjoy entertainment Fifties style, and southern style hospitality. For more information, call 662-841-6438 or visit www. orendunnmuseum.org.

To have your food festival or culinary event included in future issues, please contact us at info@ eatdrinkmississippi. com. All submissions are subject to editor's approval. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 87

Recipe Index Baked Chicken and Wild Rice, 32 Balsamic Cranberry Sauce, 50 Breakfast Pie, 32 Chocolate Chip Bread Pudding, 59 Coffee Cinnamon Sauce, 59 Dark Cherry and Bacon Chutney, 37 Glazed Carrots, 51 Hand-rolled Biscuits, 51 Herb Butter, 51 Jennifer's Cucumber & Tomato Salad, 63 Kale with Balsamic Bacon Butter and Quinoa, 64 Mississippi Swamp Cake, 32 Mother's Strawberry Cake, 51 New Potatoes and English Peas in Cream Sauce, 50 Peach Jalapeño Jam, 38 Quick Cobbler, 32 Reece's Cake, 69 Roasted Leg of Lamb, 50 Soft Baked Double Chocolate Pecan Cookies, 62 Strawberry Preserves with Black Pepper and Balsamic Vinegar, 39 Strawberry Lemon Ice Box Pie, 62 Strawberry Punch Bowl Angel Cake, 23

Advertisers Index Divian Conner Photography, 43 Etta B Pottery, 11 Fat Cake Guy, 20 Lamb's Photography, 27 McComb Electric, 20 Metal Builders Supply, 33 Mississippi Organ Recovery Association, 10 Primos Cafe, 43 Ridgeland Tourism, 4 Sanderson Farms, back Santé South Wine Festival, 2 Shivers Creek Fish House, 7 Sunbelt Lighting, 20 Suzanne Carey Photography, 20 Taste of Mississippi, Inside Back Taste of Ocean Springs, 7 The Kitchen Table, 11 Thurman’s Landscaping, 33 Tupelo, 21 88 APRIL/MAY 2014

coming IN E to terms TH

Kitchen

WITH JULIAN BRUNT

Amuse-bouche Amuse-bouche, pronounced uh-MYUZ-boosh, is a small, one bite appetizer that has been selected by the chef, never ordered by the patron, and not found on the menu. It can be in recognition of a VIP, or as an introduction to the chef's style of cooking, imagination or interpretation. They are also offered free of cost.

In the modern American culinary scene, where home cooks are becoming more sophisticated, Amuse-bouche has taken on a different meaning. It is served at home, and has morphed into a one bite tapas of sorts. Perhaps a hint of what is to come later in the meal, but it takes the place of a heaver appetizer as a first plate or course. To the ambitious, several of these small bites may be served as separate courses. It extends the meal and allows the cook to display their talent.

STORE INFORMATION from pages 12-13

AHeirloom www.aheirloom.myshopify.com Campbell's Bakery 3013 N. State St. • Jackson, MS 39216 • 601.362.4628 Catstudio 1.800.819.3367 • www.catstudio.com DeShea's 2301 S. Lamar Blvd. • Oxford, MS 38655 • 662.232.8176 2nd Location inside Sugar Magnolia Antique Mall 1919 University Ave. • Oxford, MS 38655 • 662.234.6330 The Mississippi Gift Company 300 Howard St. • Greenwood, MS 38930 • 1.800.467.7763 www.themississippigiftcompany.com Zazzle www.zazzle.com/home_sweet_home_mississippi_dinner_ plates-115824191298475421

Vendors

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Find your own copy of eat.drink.MISSISSIPPI at any of the vendors listed below.

MISSISSIPPI

Wal-mart Stores Walgreens Stores Aberdeen – Cottage Tea Room Amory – The Precious Possum Bay Springs – Piggly Wiggly Beaumont - Sissy's Biloxi – Beau Rivage Biloxi – Books-A-Million Biloxi – Food Giant Biloxi – Keesler Commissary Biloxi – Keesler Air Force Base Mini Mall Brandon - Mockingbird Marketplace Brookhaven - Piggly Wiggly Brookhaven - The Finishing Touch Bude - Peoples Drug Store Choctaw – Silver Star Hotel Clarksdale - Mag-Pie Gift & Art Shop Cleveland - Cotton Row Bookstore Clinton – Grocery Depot Columbus – Air Force Base Main Columbus – Air Force Base Shop Columbus – Books-A-Million Columbus – Piggly Wiggly Columbia – Piggly Wiggly Columbia - Second Street Bean Como – Main Street Antiques Corinth - Bookland Corinth - Ginger’s Crystal Springs - Clear Creek Flowers Crystal Springs – The Meteor Ellisville – Corner Market Forest - OAK: A Southern Experience Gautier – Jerry Lee’s Greenwood - Mississippi Gift Co. Greenwood – Turn Row Book Co. Grenada - Sugarplums Bakery & Coffee Shop Gulfport – Barnes & Noble Gulfport – Food Giant Hattiesburg - Accents Fine Home Interior & Gifts Hattiesburg – Books-A-Million Hattiesburg - Campus Book Mart Hattiesburg – Corner Markets Hattiesburg - Gourmet & More Hattiesburg – Forrest General Gift Shop Hattiesburg - Main Street Books Hattiesburg - Sunflower Hattiesburg – The Kitchen Table

Hazlehurst – Copiah County Courier Holly Springs - Jennie's Florist & Gifts Indianola - The Crown Restaurant Jackson – Books-A-Million Jackson - Brent's Drugs Jackson – Keesler Thompson Field Jackson – Lemuria Bookstore Jackson - Lovelle's CMMC Gift Shop Jackson - Mississippi Baptist Medical Center Jackson - The Everyday Gourmet Jackson – Two Sisters Kitchen Jackson - Whole Foods Kosciusko - Sullivan’s Drugs & Gifts Laurel – Corner Market Laurel – Grocery Depot Laurel - Lauren Rogers Museum of Art Laurel – Piggly Wiggly Laurel - Sunflower Leakesville – Piggly Wiggly Long Beach - Long Beach Drugs Magee – Piggly Wiggly McComb - Bookland McComb - McComb Electric McComb – McComb Market McComb - Sunflower McComb - Topisaw General Store Mendenhall - Mendenhall G & G Meridian – Anderson Pharmacy Meridian – Books-A-Million Meridian - Keesler Meridian - Mathis Peaches & Produce Meridian – Mr. Discount Drugs Meridian – Piggly Wiggly Monticello - Hudson Pharmacy Monticello - Lawrence County Press Monticello - Ole River Gypsies' Market Monticello - Ramey's Marketplace Moss Point – Piggly Wiggly Natchez – Bookland Natchez – Natchez Markets Natchez – South Side Market Natchez – Turning Pages Newton – Garvin’s Piggly Wiggly Oxford - DeShea's Oxford - Square Books Pascagoula – Antique Treasures & Treats Petal – Corner Market Picayune - MeLinda’s Fine Gifts Prentiss – Cowboy Jim’s Quitman - Hometown Quitman Treasures Richton – Fulmer’s General Store

Ridgeland – Barnes & Noble Ridgeland - Fresh Market Ridgeland - The Everyday Gourmet Rolling Fork - The Onward Store Rolling Fork - The Shoppe Sebastopol - Spoonfudge!

Shivers - Shivers Creek Fish House Southaven – Books-A-Million Starkville - Book Mart & Café Starkville - Giggleswick Starkville – Piggly Wiggly Taylorsville – Piggly Wiggly Tupelo – Barnes & Noble Tunica - Tunica Pharmacy Tylertown - Southern Charm Tylertown - Sunflower Utica - Sunflower Vicksburg - Bookland Vicksburg – Corner Markets Vicksburg - Lorelei Books Vicksburg - Levee Street Marketplace Wesson - Porches West Point - Culin-Arts Wiggins – Piggly Wiggly Yazoo City - Downtown Marketplace Yazoo City – Kaye's Food Market ALABAMA Mobile - Books-A-Million Spanish Fort - Barnes & Noble Tuscaloosa - Barnes & Noble Tuscaloosa - Books-A-Million ARKANSAS Jonesboro - Barnes & Noble LOUISIANA Baton Rouge - Barnes & Noble (Perkins Rowe) Baton Rouge - Books-A-Million Covington - Books-A-Million Ferriday – Kaye’s Food Market #4 Hammond - Books-A-Million Mandeville - Barnes & Noble Metairie - Barnes & Noble Monroe - Books-A-Million Slidell - Books-A-Million Vidalia – Vidalia Market TENNESSEE Colliverville - Barnes & Noble Memphis - Barnes & Noble

If you would like to sell eat.drink.MISSISSIPPI at your business, call 601-756-1584 or email info@eatdrinkmississippi.com. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 89

RED VELVET

Is Here To Stay

BY JAY REED

A

couple of years ago I had a revelation: this red velvet thing is not going away. Red velvet is the new black forest. But there was a day when I would have been happy to see it disappear forever.

The scene: an eighth grade era church youth banquet. The height of semi-formal fashion for young men of that day was a blue blazer and khakis, undergirded by an oxford-cloth buttondown shirt and burgundy tie. I was usually closer to the depths of fashion, but on this night my outfit was “spot on.” Fashionable fare for church youth banquets was roast beef, green beans, mashed potatoes, and a roll, but I don’t really remember what we had that night - except for the red velvet cake.

The banquet was in celebration of Saint Valentine’s holiday, and I suppose red cake with white frosting seemed appropriate, as it still does today.

Sometime previous to this banquet, I must have had a bad experience with red velvet. I cannot recall the incident, but I clearly remembering associating the taste with what I now know to be “soured cake.” For that reason, I opted out of dessert that night. As the adults came around to pick up our dishes, I thought I would be helpful and hand them the cake. I am sure this was a great surprise to whosever's mother from the youth group was collecting the remains. I was not a kid who was known to give up dessert.

The cake was on a flimsy paper plate, and had been sitting on that plate the entire meal. By then it had apparently gotten soggy, because as I eagerly 90 APRIL/MAY 2014

handed it up to the nice lady, the plate buckled and the cake - the very red cake with the very white frosting came tumbling back frosting-first onto the blue polyester landing strip that was my lapel. I must have looked very patriotic. My date for the evening was completely nice about it - we were “just friends” so it wasn’t as if my embarrassment was going to cause a romantic downturn - but still, that’s not the kind of moment one envisions for a first date. My outfit was still spot on - for the remainder of the evening I had a giant white “spot on” my coat.

Between the memory of the soured flavor and the soiled blazer, it was many years before I attempted to like red velvet cake again. With the benefit of hindsight, I now realize I was basically afraid of tinted chocolate cake.

There is indeed a unique flavor to red velvet done right; according to Nancie McDermott in The Southern Foodways Alliance Community Cookbook, it is a result of “the unusual combination of vinegar, buttermilk, and cocoa.” And if you study the classic recipes, those three ingredients are always there, along with the required heapin’ helpin’ of red food coloring. In my copy of Bell’s Best, there is a recipe for red cake and another for red velvet - aside from the vinegar in the red velvet, the two recipes are practically identical. So there you go.

In Laurie Triplette’s cookbook, “Gimme Some Sugar, Darlin’” she also has two recipes, one with the red velvet “trinity” and another with beets. I am not a beet-loving guy, and I have made

BILL DABNEY PHOTOGRAPHY

{ till we eat again }

Jay Reed, a graduate of Ole Miss, lives in Starkville where he is a pharmacist by day and a freelance food writer by day off. He is a member of the Southern Foodways Alliance and writes “Eats One Ate,” a weekly column in the Starkville Daily News.

that point clear to my mother-in-law (who eats them out of the can), my former CSA farmer (who since moved, thus reducing the number of beets I am subjected to), and a prominent Atlanta chef (who months later remembered the tirade I made against them at an SFA lunch we otherwise enjoyed together.) They do bring moisture, sugar, and redness to a recipe in a single bound, so I get the thought process.

I just don’t get the taste. Perhaps the piece of red velvet that first set me against it was made with beets. That would explain a lot.

These days I am a changed man.

And thankfully, because I have many red velvet-less years to make up for, the innovations keep coming. This year I made a special trip to Wal-Mart just to find the limited edition red velvet M&M’s that came out only for Valentine’s Day. This was my kind of red velvet: they melt in your mouth, not on your lapel.

Red velvet whoopie pies fascinate me. My local coffee shop tempts me with red velvet brownies and a cream cheese swirl. I am always on the lookout for another spin on red velvet ice cream. And one day - I just know it - my friend is going to make me a red velvet cheesecake. Yes, I mean you. edm

Art by Pryor Graeber to be awarded in a drawdown — $25 per ticket.

Blue Cross Blue Shield of MS presents

Highland Village Monday, April 7, 2014 • 7-10 p.m. $80 per person • $65 in advance 40 Restaurants, 10 Beverage vendors, 2 Live bands, 1 silent auction, & YOU! —

TICKETS: www.tasteofms.org or 601-353-2759 HisWay

Molpus Foundation

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 91

Since we started in 1947, our chicken has been free of extra salt, water and other additives. It’s not just 100% natural. It’s 100% chicken.

For recipes visit us at SandersonFarms.com or find us on Facebook.

92 APRIL/MAY 2014