Eat Drink Mississippi April/May 2019

Oyster Farming | Bread & Butter Bistro | Mississippi Food & Wine Festival

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI Crawfish Cravings

15

crawfish dishes you will love

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

s ’ i p p i s s Congratulations! i s s i M Best

B & b Meat Market Marshall Steak House

Burger

&

Steak 2019 Over 3,000 voted to nominate restaurants from all across the state.

The top 5 were chosen from the most votes.

Judges went to each top 5 restaurants and ate, then they picked the best of the best.

B&b Meat Market & Deli along with Marshall Steak House accepted their award during the Dixie National Rodeo.

www.msbeef.org Mississippi Beef Council

680 Monroe St. Suite A • Jackson, MS 39202 • (601) 353-4520

Sponsored by Mississippi’s 16,000 Beef Producers through the Beef Checkoff Program 2 • APRIL/MAY 2019

Explore the delights. Experience a homestyle Southern diner at breakfast, sample a James Beard Award nominee’s innovative modern fare for lunch, and wrap up the night with the best steak, seafood, and libations this side of, well, just about anywhere around. We invite you visit Giardina’s and enjoy Chef Cameron Shaw’s take on his Mississippi Delta Favorites including Fresh Shucked Hot Tamales, Baked Oysters Giardina, Filet Mignon, and Mississippi Delta Catfish Cakes.

225 Howard Street | Greenwood, MS 38930 | 662.453.9197 | www.visitgreenwood.com eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 3

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Nothing Beats a Jackson Blue Plate When you’re in the mood for a true Southern comfort meal, nothing beats a blue plate. Usually consisting of a meat and two or three sides with a drink, blue plates are filling, tasty, fresh, and always a go-to when it comes to getting a quick lunch. Check out some of our favorite places for blue plate lunches in the Jackson area.

Lou’s Full Serv A Jackson staple, Lou’s serves up Cajun-Southern plate lunches every weekday.

For just $12, choose from Red Beans and Rice on Mondays, Crispy Chicken with Whipped Potatoes and Black Eyes Peas on Tuesdays, Meatloaf with potatoes and butterbeans on Wednesdays, Pork Chop with Andouille Dirty Rice on Thursdays, and Shrimp and Crawfish Étouffée with Stone Ground Cheese Grits on Fridays. Each blue plate price includes a salad, bread, and tea, too, so you’re sure to get a well-rounded meal at Lou’s Full Serv.

Walker’s Drive In Located in the heart of Fondren, Walker’s Drive In is known for their steaks and Redfish Anna, but during lunchtime, you can also enjoy a delicious plate lunch. Plate lunches range from Smoked Brisket or Red Beans and Rice on Mondays; Baked or Fried Chicken or Hamburger Steak on Tuesdays; Smothered Pork Chop or BBQ Baked Chicken on Wednesday; Meatloaf or Smoked Brisket on Thursdays, and Fried Catfish or Chicken Tetrazzini on Fridays. Each blue plate comes with your choice of two veggies and a salad all for just $11. You can also choose four sides and enjoy a Veggie Plate.

Barrelhouse Right across the street from Walker’s is another Fondren hotspot known for their small plates and fun cocktails. Barrelhouse also serves Southern blue plates, and each one is available every day of the week. Each comes with a meat and two sides and a slice of cornbread for just $11. Meats include Fried Catfish, Fried Chicken Breast, Hamburger Steak, Chicken and Dumplings, and Braised Pork Shoulder. Choices of sides are green beans, collard greens, mac and cheese, homestyle mashed potatoes, house cut fries, black eyed peas, roasted sweet potatoes, pimento cheese grits, butter beans, fried okra, or a house salad.

4 • APRIL/MAY 2019

Logan Farms Known for their holiday hams and catering orders, Logan Farms is also serves delicious sandwiches and plate lunches.

Small blue plates include one meat and two sides for $8.50, and the large blue plate includes one meat and three sides for just $10. The daily offerings and list of meats available are so extensive that there’s sure to be something for everyone no matter which day you go.

Everyday offerings include Smoked Chicken, Fried Chicken Tenders, Chicken and Dumplings, BBQ, and Sliced Ham or Turkey. Other main dishes, available on different days of the week, include Fried Chicken Parmesan and Fried Chicken Tender Caesar Wrap on Mondays; Smoked Pork Loin, Fried Pork Chop or Philly Cheesesteak Poboy on Tuesdays; Mississippi Pot Roast or Squash Casserole on Wednesdays; Homemade Meatloaf or Hamburger Steak on Thursdays; Fried Catfish or Baked Parmesan Catfish on Fridays. The list of sides is just as long, with options ranging from corn nuggets to sweet potato fires to just a bag of Zapp’s potato chips.

Parlor Market If you find yourself downtown for lunch, stop by Parlor Market for a home cooked blue plate. Each blue plate comes with two veggies, a sweet potato muffin, and tea.

Enjoy Southern Pork Chop on Mondays, Meatloaf on Tuesdays, Buttermilk Fried Chicken on Wednesdays, Pot Roast on Thursdays, and Slow Smoked BBQ Ribs or Fried Catfish on Fridays. Or of course, opt for a veggie-only plate any day of the week.

Veggies include lima beans, green beans, potatoes and gravy, braised greens, ginger beer glazed carrots, grits, or smoked cheddar mac & cheese.

Iron Horse Grill While everyone loves the fajitas and signature dishes at Iron Horse Grill, sometimes you’ve got to get in and out of a restaurant quickly at lunch. Check out their daily specials on their Iron Horse Grill Express Plate Lunch menu. Served from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., you’re sure to get a delicious meal and back to work on time. For only $10.95, choose from Hamburger Steak with Mashed Potatoes and Vegetables on Mondays, Chef Selection of Tacos with Rice and Beans on Tuesdays, Baby Back Ribs with Mac and Cheese and Cole Slaw on Wednesdays, two pieces of mixed fried chicken and mashed potatoes on Thursdays, and Fried Delta Catfish with Mac and Cheese, Turnip Greens and Cornbread on Fridays. View their menus at www.ironhorsegrill.com/menus.

Eat, drink and be soulful at the MS Craft Beer Festival and MS Food & Wine Festival June 14th and 15th.

visitjackson.com

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 5

CONTENTS April/May 2019 Volume 8 Number 3

17

38 in this issue 14 CHEF’S CORNER Chef Cameron Shaw Inspired

by Family to Create Unique Dishes in the Delta

54 in every issue 8 From the Publisher 10 From Our Readers 11 What’s Happening 12 Fabulous Foodie Finds 16 A Taste of Magnolia 55 Dining Guide 62 Events 64 Recipe/Ad Index 66 Till We Eat Again 6 • APRIL/MAY 2019

24 MISSISSIPPI MADE Jubilations Cheesecake

28 EPIC EATS No Challenge Is Too Big for Big Eater Mike

32 FRESH FROM THE FARM PJ Farm Is One of Few USDA Certified Organic Farms in State

36 MUDBUG MADNESS 15 Crawfish Dishes You’ll Love

42 REEF RESURRECTION Off-Bottom Oyster Farming Introduced to Mississippi Waters

46 FROM MISSISSIPPI TO BEYOND Chef Andre Rush: Military Muscle with Mississippi Heart

53 FROM THE BOOKSHELF American Pop: A Novel Snowden Wright

54 RAISE YOUR GLASS Salted Cream Iced Coffee

56 WHERE TO EAT Bread & Butter Bistro in Batesville

60 FEATURED FESTIVAL Mississippi Food and Wine Festival

ON THE COVER: Crawfish Bisque by Lisa LaFontaine Bynum, page 18

Creamy, dreamy fudge in a jar!

Perfect for special events, fundraisers, wedding favors, or treat yourself by ordering online.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 7

{ from the publisher }

Welcome Spring...and Crawfish

W

hen Spring arrives, most people get excited about longer days, warmer weather, and trading their boots in for flip flops.

For me, one of the exciting things about a season change is the shift in our palates. Hearty, comfort foods give way to lighter dishes like salads and fresh vegetables this time of year.

I get most excited about the arrival of crawfish. I wish the season lasted longer because I just can’t seem to get enough of them. I especially love them fresh from the boiling pot with potatoes and sausage. And I simply can’t eat them without dipping sauce. I’m sharing my recipe for it, along with a few of my favorite spring recipes, at right.

Take advantage of their bounty right now by making one of Lisa Bynum’s delicious recipes from our “Crawfish Cravings” feature (page 18). If you’re not much of a cook, that’s ok.

Many chefs around the state have gotten creative with their use of crawfish, and we’ve compiled a list of unique restaurant dishes featuring the tasty crustaceans (page 36). You’ll definitely want to sink your teeth into many, if not all, of these.

Beginning with this issue, I’d like to welcome a new columnist to the Eat Drink Mississippi family. Divian Conner will share one of her delicious recipes and stories in “A Taste of Magnolia.” In addition to her culinary talent, she’s an incredible photographer. Her first submission looks amazing (page 16), and I can’t wait to see what she creates for us in the future.

This time of year could also be called festival season.

There’s an abundance of fun events taking place throughout Mississippi during the next few months. Take note of Taste of Flowood in April and the Hattiesburg Craft Beer Festival in June. And, mark your calendar for the inaugural Mississippi Food and Wine Festival, also in June. Turn to page 61 for more info and the date. You don’t want to miss these tasty affairs!

J.J. Carney Publisher

q

Crawfish dipping sauce 1 cup mayonnaise (I prefer Duke’s brand) 1/4 cup Dijon mustard 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 1 tablespoon ketchup (I prefer Heinz brand) 1/2 teaspoon Creole seasoning (I prefer Slap Ya Mama brand) Stir all ingredients together until well combined.

Refrigerate.

fluffy fruit Salad 1 (16-ounce) whipped topping, thawed (I prefer Cool Whip) 1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk 3 tablespoons lemon juice 1 (20-ounce) can crushed pineapple, drained 1 (15-ounce) can mandarin oranges, drained and cut into small pieces 2 cups miniature marshmallows 1 cup chopped pecans In large mixing bowl, mix together whipped topping, condensed milk, and lemon juice. Stir in pineapple, mandarin oranges, marshmallows, and pecans. Chill.

PiÑa Colada Cake 1 yellow cake mix 1 cup water 1/3 cup oil 3 eggs 1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk 1 (15-ounce) can cream of coconut 1 (8-ounce) whipped topping, thawed (I prefer Cool Whip) 1 (6-ounce) package frozen coconut, thawed Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

In large bowl, blend cake mix, water, oil, and eggs with electric mixer until moistened. Beat at medium speed for 2 minutes. Pour into greased and floured 9x13-inch pan.

Bake for 23-28 minutes. Remove from oven and, while hot, punch holes into cake. Mix condensed milk and cream of coconut; pour over cake. Cool. Top with whipped topping and sprinkle with coconut. Keep refrigerated.

“So I recommend having fun, because there is nothing better for people in this world than to eat, drink, and enjoy life. That way they will experience some happiness along with all the hard work God gives them under the sun.”

Ecclesiastes 8:15

r

EAT DRINK MISSISSIPPI (USPS 17200) is published bi-monthly by Carney Publications LLC, 296 F.E. Sellers Hwy., Monticello, MS 39654-9555. Periodicals postage paid at Monticello, MS, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to EAT DRINK MISSISSIPPI, P.O. Box 1663, Madison, MS 39130.

8 • APRIL/MAY 2019

Eat

CLASSIC AMERICAN QUALITY.

IN THE DELTA

Fried Simmons Catfish Fillets, Okra-Ham Purloo, Marinated Cucumbers, & Fish Sauce Aioli.

-SNACKBAR, Oxford, MS

Fresh From The Pond To Your Plate.

Mon-Sa t: 5 -10 pm 314 Howa rd St reet G reenwood, M ississi ppi 662 .4 55.42 27 t hea l luvian.com/g ia rd i nas

SINCE 1982

SIMMON SC ATF ISH.C OM

3720 Hardy Street, Suite 3 | Hattiesburg, MS | 601-261-2224 www.KitchenTableNow.com

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 9

{ from our readers } We love your magazine and look forward to every issue!

Bethany Ashley Magee

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MISSISSIPPI J.J. Carney Publisher/Editor John Carney Executive Editor

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10 • APRIL/MAY 2019

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI is published six times a year by Carney Publications LLC

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{ what’s happening }

Iconic Gulf Coast Restaurant Re-opens

E

arly last year, Jocelyn’s restaurant in Ocean Springs closed its doors for the last time. But now, Jocelyn’s grandson, Patrick Bosqueto, has taken control and re-opened the restaurant with a new name, Patrick’s. Patrick worked alongside his grandmother in his junior high days, so he took matters into his own hands and gave it a shot at calling it his own. Several dishes from Jocelyn’s are still on the menu

including crabmeat au gratin, trout amandine, baked stuffed shrimp, and trout with lump crabmeat, and Patrick has also added his own touch the menu with difference sauces and soups. Be sure to check them out next time you’re in Ocean Springs. Patrick’s is open Thursday through Sunday from 5:30 to 10 p.m. edm

Familiar Names Land on James Beard Award Nominee List

T

Vishwesh Bhatt

Alex Eaton

he James Beard Foundation recently announced the list of Restaurant and Chef Award semifinalists in advance of the 29th annual James Beard Awards.

The prestigious group of semifinalists across all categories represents a wide collection of culinary talent from exceptional chefs and dining destinations under categories ranging from best new restaurants, outstanding bar, outstanding baker,

Alex Perry and his team at Vestige

and a rising star chef under 30 years of age. Mississippi has semifinalists in the Outstanding Bar Program and Best Chef: South categories. Saint Leo in Oxford is a semifinalist under the Outstanding Bar Program, and three chefs from our state are up for Best Chef: South, including Vishwesh Bhatt of Snackbar in Oxford, Alex Eaton of The Manship in Jackson, and Alex Perry of Vestige in Ocean Springs. edm eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 11

{ fabulous foodie finds }

Crazy for Crawfish O

ne of the best things about springtime is that it’s crawfish season. Here in Mississippi, we’ve gone a little crazy for these tasty crustaceans.

We’ve dug up some adorable products to feed the craze and add a touch of whimsy to your home for your next crawfish boil or just for fun. edm

Crawfish lunch plates, 8-count, $3.99 Party City Crawfish lunch napkins, 16-count, $3.99 Party City Crawfish Boil styrofoam cups, 10-count, $10.99 Amazon Lil’Bit Boiling Co. Kids Crawfish Boil Set, $34.95.

Extra bag of fixins, $10.

Southerndipity booths in The Honey Pot and Vendor’s Emporium, Brookhaven

see page 64 for store information 12 • APRIL/MAY 2019

“First You Make a Roux” serving platter, $37.95 Mardi Gras Outlet Boil Dat Crawfish Flag Set, $12.99 Kirkland’s Crawfish Pie and Crawfish 4x4-inch Wall Art by Jax Frey, $41.95 each Roux Royale eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 13

{ chef's corner }

Chef Cameron Shaw Inspired by Family to Create Unique Dishes in the Delta story by paige mckay | photos by Helen Gwin

G

iardina’s in Greenwood was founded in 1936 by Joseph Giardina and is one of the Delta’s most historic restaurants. Located in The Alluvian Hotel in downtown Greenwood, Giardina’s features steaks, seafood, and Italian cuisine with Southern fusion.

Behind the cuisine at Giardina’s is Executive Chef Cameron Shaw. He started out as a dishwasher at Giardina’s nearly 10 years ago and worked his way up to the executive chef position as his passion and culinary skills grew. Inspired by his family, including his grandmother who worked at the original Giardina’s on W. Park Avenue, Shaw enjoys experimenting with traditional Southern, Creole, Cajun, and Italian cuisines to create unique specials for his customers to enjoy.

“My grandmother was my biggest influence,” Shaw said.

“I remember my family always gathering on Sundays after church, and her cooking brought us all together.”

Along with gathering on Sundays after church, Shaw also has fond memories from Thanksgiving when he was just 10 years old that have stuck with him to this day.

“My mother taught me how to make dressing for the first time,” he said. “I was amazed at how mixing all the ingredients and seasonings together created something that was so much more than just the sum of its parts. The smell of sage always reminds of that time and is my favorite herb to cook with to this day.”

Shaw added that, along with sage, another favorite ingredient to cook with is bacon.

“The smell and taste are both heavenly,” he said.

Being that Giardina’s focuses on Southern and Creole flavors, some of Shaw’s signature dishes include Duck Confit, Cajun Shrimp and Grits, and Seared Coast Grouper.

On his days off, he enjoys working out, going to the local farmer’s market to find fresh ingredients for new recipes, and traveling. Shaw noted that he enjoys the simple things in life, and he keeps that in mind when cooking for himself.

“A porch catfish with an herb and cheddar risotto is probably my go-to,” Shaw said. “But I also wouldn’t say no to a basic sandwich.”

Though Shaw has been a part of the Giardina’s family for 10 years now, he says that if he weren’t in the restaurant business, he would be in law enforcement.

“Growing up, I always wanted to give back and protect my community,” he said. “Even as a chef, I believe in always standing

14 • APRIL/MAY 2019

Chef Cameron Shaw up for what’s right.”

For now, though, Shaw will remain doing what he loves and creating new and fresh specialty dishes for the customers at Giardina’s.

“My favorite thing about the restaurant is seeing the smiles on guests’ faces after enjoying their dinner,” Shaw said.

Giardina’s is a favorite of locals and tourists alike and will satisfy both traditional and contemporary tastes. When Giardina’s made the move from the original location to The Alluvian, considerable effort was made to retain the character and charm of the original restaurant, but the white tablecloth and fine crystal add the feeling of elegance one would expect from a fine dining restaurant in a large city. The atmosphere at Giardina’s is old world elegant, but dress is laid-back “Delta casual.” Whether you choose Shaw’s Shrimp and Grits or another unique weekly specialty dish, it’s sure to be made fresh and with care by Shaw the same way he’s done it since day one. edm

Duck Confit 1 large head of garlic, unpeeled, plus 4 large cloves, divided 1/4 cup kosher salt 1 tablespoon thyme, finely chopped 1 tablespoon basil 1 large shallot, finely chopped (about 1/4 cup) 2 bay leaves 2 fresh duck leg quarters 3 cups duck fat Mince 4 cloves of garlic, then mash them to a paste with a pinch of kosher salt.

Combine garlic paste, kosher salt, thyme, chopped shallot, and bay leaves in a single large bowl. Add duck legs and allow them to marinate in the refrigerator for 1-2 days.

Remove duck legs from marinade and wipe clean.

Melt duck fat in a large, heavy-duty pot over low heat. Add garlic head and duck legs and cook, uncovered, over low heat (approximately 190 degrees F) until fat renders for about 1 hour.

Continue to cook duck, maintaining a temperature of 190 degrees F to 210 degrees F until a toothpick slides easily into the duck, approximately 2-3 more hours.

Remove duck from pan. Allow to cool before slicing. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 15

Taste of Magnolia a

Breakfast Is Served by divian conner

O

DIVIAN CONNER is a Mississippi mama of four ‘not so little’ little ones. Coming up with recipes, trying new ones, and feeding her crew of tweens and teens is her passion. Southern recipes, easy recipes, sorta hard recipes, but always delicious recipes is what you will find on her food blog, www.divianlconner.com.

Now venturing into outdoor cooking over an open fire, Divian is fascinated with camp cooking and entertaining.

16 • APRIL/MAY 2019

nce upon a time, many moons ago, when my now angsty teens were still in the wee children category, my oldest decided to make everyone breakfast for dinner. Of course, not feeling well, I was more than happy to oblige her. So she, at 13, headed to the kitchen with confidence and determination, beaming with pride at what she was about to do.

While she exuded the utmost confidence, her siblings looked a little frightened, standing off in the corner of the kitchen, worried about what culinary Frankenstein she was about to come up with. I wasn’t worried, though, after all she had witnessed my mom in the kitchen, who was an amazing home cook...I had no reason to think that this could potentially lead to impending doom...at least I had hoped.

There she was fumbling through cabinets and pulling things out of the fridge in an ecstatic frenzy. Placing things on the table with a loud thud, while laughing (in a somewhat maniacal kind of way now that I think about it) and doing a quick spin to return to the fridge. Now, if you knew her personally, you would know that this certain daughter of mine has a bit of an attachment to dramatics. So everything she did that evening in the kitchen was like watching a movie on fast forward. With my other kids still standing in the corner, cowering in fear, my oldest continued to bop around the kitchen, mixing and stirring and cooking and flipping and whistling.

And then she was done.

She took a step back from the stove, chest puffed up with pride and a wide grin plastered on her face. She threw her head back and let out a cackle and ordered everyone to have a seat. Turning to grab the platter, we all waited with anticipation at what was about to be presented to us. With a twirl, she did a little dance and the platter was placed in the middle of the table.

We all looked with wonder...and curiosity at what was before us.

Taking an actual bow, like she had just received an encore for an amazing performance of her solo rendition of “Bye, Bye, Birdie,” she said with a strong and proud voice, “I present to you, Chandler’s Egg, Catfish, and Black Eyed Pea TACOOOOOOS!” While this recipe of Bourbon Peach French Toast with Praline Pecans is no egg, catfish, and black eyed pea taco, it is sure to leave your family and friends not just staring in wonder and practically licking their plates clean, but thanking you for such a rich and filling southern take on a traditional classic.

And yes, we did eat every bite, and we told her it was the best ever. edm

Bourbon Peach Sauce 4 fresh peaches 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon lemon juice 1/2 cup of sugar 1/4 cup brown sugar 2-3 tablespoons cornstarch (for thickening) 1/2 cup water 3 tablespoons bourbon Rinse and then slice peaches into slightly thin wedges.

In pan on medium heat, melt butter. Add in remaining ingredients and stir. Increase heat to high until boiling. Let boil while constantly stirring for 2 minutes and reduce heat to medium-low, stirring occasionally. Cook on low for five minutes and remove pan from heat.

French Toast 1-1/2 cups milk 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 3-4 eggs (3 for less eggy French toast) 1 teaspoon vanilla 10 slices French bread, about 1-inch thickness 1 tablespoon butter Mix all ingredients except for the bread and butter in medium bowl. Mix well. Melt butter in pan on medium

heat. Take slices of French bread and submerge into egg and milk mixture. Remove and let excess drip back into the bowl. Once pan is hot, place bread in pan and cook on medium until browned on one side, then flip over to the other side. Place on baking sheet and into oven on 200 degrees F to stay warm until finished with all slices.

Vanilla Bourbon Praline Pecans 1 tablespoon bourbon 1/2 teaspoon water 1 egg white 1/2 cup pecan halves 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg 1/2 cup brown sugar 1/2 cup granulated sugar Preheat oven to 250 degrees F. In medium mixing bowl, whisk bourbon, water, and egg white until frothy. Stir in pecans. In separate bowl, mix all dry ingredients and then pour over the pecans, mixing well for an even coat.

Pour pecans on baking sheet and bake for one hour.

Allow to cool and then chop the pecans.

Top French toast with peach sauce and chopped praline pecans. Serve with a dollop of whipped cream and fresh mint leaves.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 17

Crawfish Bisque

18 • APRIL/MAY 2019

Crawfish Cravings

By Lisa LaFontaine Bynum

A

h, spring … the days are longer, the grass is greener, and the crawfish are hot! Take advantage of the abundance of mudbugs this season any way you can, because as every crawfish lover knows – the season doesn’t last long.

Satisfy your cravings between crawfish boils by trying one of these tasty recipes. edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 19

Hot Crawfish Dip

20 • APRIL/MAY 2019

Crawfish Pies

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 21

Crawfish Bisque Serves 4-6 3 tablespoons olive oil 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 leeks white and light green parts, washed and chopped 3 cloves garlic coarsely chopped 1/4 cup all-purpose flour 1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste 1/4 cup Cognac or brandy 1/4 cup dry sherry 4 cups seafood or chicken stock 2 cups heavy cream 1 teaspoon shrimp boil 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 pound cooked crawfish tail meat 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Heat olive oil and butter in a large stock pot over medium heat. Add the leeks and sauté until the leeks are tender, about 10 minutes.

Add the chopped garlic and sauté for an additional three minutes.

Gradually add the flour, whisking to prevent lumps.

Cook for two minutes.

Whisk in the tomato paste.

Whisk in the cognac and sherry. Cook for three minutes.

Add the seafood or chicken stock, heavy cream, and shrimp boil. Bring to a boil, then simmer until the liquid has thickened, about 3-5 minutes. Stir frequently to prevent the cream from scorching.

Remove the pot from the heat. Add the crawfish meat and stir to combine.

Working in batches, transfer the soup to a blender and purée until smooth. Alternately, purée soup using an immersion blender.

Return the puréed soup to the pot. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

22 • APRIL/MAY 2019

Hot Baked Crawfish Dip Serves 4 8 ounces cream cheese, softened 1 cup Parmesan cheese, divided 1/4 cup mayonnaise 1 teaspoon dried mustard 2 green onions, white and green parts chopped 1 clove garlic, pressed 1/2 teaspoon shrimp boil 1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 8 ounces cooked crawfish tail meat Crackers or crostini Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Combine the cream cheese, 3/4 cup Parmesan cheese, mayonnaise, dried mustard, green onions, garlic, shrimp boil, and Worcestershire sauce in a medium mixing bowl.

Whisk ingredients together until combined.

Gently fold in the crawfish tail meat.

Season with salt and pepper.

Spread the crawfish mixture into a small baking dish or pie plate. Bake for 20 minutes. Top dip with remaining 1/4 cup of Parmesan cheese and bake until cheese is melted and bubbly, about 10 minutes more.

Serve hot spread on crackers or crostini.

Crawfish Pies Serves 4-6 1/2 stick unsalted butter 1 medium bell pepper, diced 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 cup chopped onion 1/2 cup chopped green onion 1/4 cup all-purpose flour 3 cups seafood or chicken stock 2 teaspoons dried oregano 1/2 teaspoon hot sauce, plus more to taste 1 pound cooked crawfish tail meat 2 pie crusts 1 large egg, beaten 2 tablespoons water Salt and pepper Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Melt butter in a large pot over medium heat.

Add bell pepper, garlic, onion, and green onion. Sauté until vegetables are tender, about five minutes.

Gradually add the flour, whisking to prevent lumps.

Cook for an additional two minutes to remove the raw flour

taste.

Add the seafood or chicken stock. Continue to whisk to prevent lumps. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes.

Add oregano, hot sauce, and crawfish meat. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Fit one pie crust into the bottom of a 9-inch pie plate.

Trim the edges.

Spoon the crawfish mixture into the pie shell. Fit a second pie crust over the top. Trim and crimp the edges.

Cut slits into the top of the pie to allow steam to vent.

Alternatively, spoon the crawfish mixture into individual ramekins. Cut the pie crusts to fit over the top of each ramekin with 1/4 – inch overhang. Seal and crimp the edges to the ramekin. Cut slits in the top to allow steam to escape.

Combine the egg and the water. Gently brush the egg wash over the top of the crust.

Place pies on a foil lined baking sheet to catch any drips. Bake for 35 – 40 minutes until the crust is flaky and golden brown. Allow the pie to stand for 10 minutes before serving.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 23

24 • APRIL/MAY 2019

{ mississippi made }

Jubilations Cheesecake Strives to Produce Best on the Market

I

by susan marquez

n 1985, Tammy Craddock perfected a cheesecake recipe in her Lowndes County kitchen. She made cheesecakes for friends and family and eventually developed her kitchen creations into a business. Jubilations Cheesecakes became known nationwide for their quality and unique flavors.

“I met Tammy about 17 or 18 years ago and got involved with the company,” says George Purnell, who now owns and runs the company with his wife, Luann.

“When Tammy retired, we bought her stock and we moved the company from Columbus to West Point.”

The Purnells built a new manufacturing facility along with a coffee shop complete with a picture window that allows customers to look inside the bakery and watch the cheesecakes being made. Purnell describes the coffee shop as a “true barista joint. It’s unique, because our coffee is roasted in New Albany

by High Point Roasters. Dan Skinner, the owner, sources only the highest quality beans, and we buy the coffee from him within a day of roasting. Our coffee is far fresher than typical coffee houses in the country.”

The cheesecake bakery features over 20 different flavors at any given time.

“We have over 100 recipes,” says George. When asked about his personal favorite, he instantly answered “strawberry shortcake.” The decadent dessert is half white cake, half cheesecake with a layer of strawberry pie filling in the middle, topped with whipped cream. Ideas for

the different flavors of cheesecake come from various sources. “We have our own chef who lives in West Point,” says Purnell. “She comes in and works on recipes when we need her expertise.

Between her and our bakery team, including our bakery manager and her daughter, we have the resources to come up with plenty of new ideas.”

Jubilations also does custom manufacturing for restaurant groups. “That’s usually where our flavors come from. We listen to what the chefs want and develop new recipes to meet their needs.”

Some of the unique flavors in the Jubilations line include Southern Caramel Praline Pecan, Strawberry Wave, Red Velvet, Mississippi Mud, and Chocolate Marble Fantasy. The company has also developed recipes for those who have dietary restrictions, including sugar-free and gluten-free selections in lemon, chocolate, strawberry, and supreme.

Many organizations sell Jubilations Cheesecakes as fundraisers. “We custom print the order forms at no charge to the organizations,” explains Purnell. “The organization sets the sales price and they usually net $8 to $10 per cake sold. Once the orders are taken, we agree upon a delivery date, and the cakes are delivered in bulk to a set address so they can be delivered to customers. It’s been

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 25

a successful way for bands, schools, churches, sports teams, and others to raise money for their organization. The thing people really like about it is that they are getting a best-in-class in its product category. When people order a Jubilations Cheesecake, they know they cannot find a better cheesecake anywhere.”

The cakes are also shipped to customers nationwide. “We pack them in dry ice. It’s first-quality packaging, and all cakes arrive frozen,” although Purnell explains that the cakes can be refrozen without harm. The cakes have become popular business and client gifts, as well as gifts for any occasion.

Many people order a Jubilations Cheesecake to serve for special occasions such as birthdays and holidays. The cakes can be found in supermarkets in over half the state, and that’s expanding as the company grows.

The company is moving beyond cheesecakes with their product offerings. “We have added monkey bread and brownies to our product line,” says Purnell, “as well as a few things that can only be purchased in the coffee shop, like scones, muffins, cookies, homemade granola, and sausage balls that are ridiculously good!”

While the company produces over 50,000 cheesecakes each year, Purnell still refers to Jubilations as a small company.

“That’s a lot of cream cheese. But when you compare us to the big national companies, we are small, but we are big on quality. We’ll always strive to be the very best cheesecake on the market.” edm 26 • APRIL/MAY 2019

Jubilations Cheesecakes 6070 Highway 45 Alt. S., West Point 662.328.9210 www.jubilations.com

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Epic Eats

Mike Whities AKA Big Eater Mike 28 • APRIL/MAY 2019

No Challenge Is Too Big for

Big Eater Mike story by paige mckay | photos submitted

I

f you’ve ever signed up for a chicken wing challenge or a giant burger challenge at a restaurant, then you know how difficult, but fun, it can be to try to win. For Mike Whities, his first ever chicken wing challenge was so fun that he’s since made a hobby out of participating in challenges at different restaurants across the country and in his own home.

Whities, also known as Big Eater Mike, started participating in food challenges and competitions about three years ago when he signed up for a wing eating contest in Metairie,

Louisiana. But the day before the contest was set to take place, it was canceled. Being that he’d already committed to eating a large number of chicken wings, Whities found another wing challenge at a nearby restaurant and completed it instead.

“I didn’t place, but it lit a fire under me,” Whities said. “It made me want to do more of them.”

It started off with doing home challenges just to see what he could do and what he liked, and he was excited about potentially doing more contests. Now, at least once or twice a

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 29

Mike Whities completed “The Not So Simple Burger Challenge” at Simple Burger in Flowood.

Big Eater Mike competed in a Nathan’s Hot Dog Eating Contest qualifier at Six Flags Over Texas.

month, Big Eater Mike finds a challenge at a local restaurant or makes up his own at home and films them for his YouTube channel. He’s even gone around to restaurants in the metro area and helped create challenges including Pig and Pint, Rooster’s, Basil’s, Green Ghost Tacos, Fernando’s, and Salsa’s Mexican Grill.

Once the challenge is created, Whities goes and tries it out for himself so the restaurant can get an idea of what the time limit should be and how they could improve.

“People ask why I do it, and it’s just to help the restaurants,” Whities said. “I want to get an influx of more customers for our local places.”

Not only does Big Eater Mike go around to restaurants in Jackson, but he’s been to places in Louisiana, Tennessee, Texas, West Virginia, and Missouri. From an 11-pound pizza in St. Louis to a 12-pound burger in Memphis, Big Eater Mike has eaten it all. So far, he’s completed around 26 challenges, and he doesn’t plan on stopping anytime soon. Mike is signed on with Major League Eating, the same company that puts on the Nathan’s Hot Dog Eating Contest each year, which makes him a professional eater – number 33 in the world. Most of the challenges he does are just to see if he can complete them – and he usually does – and he also competes in certain contests that are sanctioned under Major League Eating.

When it comes to eating 23 hotdogs in one sitting or a 6.5-pound burger in under 30 minutes, it can be intimidating to those who aren’t in the world of professional eating, and Whities actually has to train for his challenges and contests.

“When I know I have a challenge coming up, I have to stretch my stomach,” Whities said. “If you train by eating a lot,

that’s a lot of calories and weight gain, but liquids don’t have the calories and it passes faster.”

So, Whities has to chug gallons at a time of either water or Gatorade so that his stomach is prepped for upcoming contests and challenges. It’s a common misconception that he eats tons of food all the time to stay prepared, but that’s not quite the case.

“I only do about two challenges a month, so I’m only eating that much a couple times each month,” he said. “I liquid train almost every day, but I don’t eat like that every day.”

Being number 33 in the world didn’t come easy for Big Eater Mike, and several different competitions have helped him gain his title as a professional eater. He’s competed in qualifiers for the Nathan’s Hot Dog Eating Contest where he ate 23 hotdogs in 10 minutes; he came in 4th place at a Moon Pie eating contest and ate 32 and a half Moon Pies in eight minutes; he and a friend broke the record time for eating a 12-pound burger at Kooky Canuck in Memphis; ate 10 hot wings in five minutes at Bayou Hot Wings in New Orleans; and he ate six pounds of gumbo and placed 7th. Whities’ goal now is to finally qualify for the annual Nathan’s Hot Dog Eating Contest.

“I’ve tried to qualify twice and got beaten both times,” he said. “But I’m going to keep trying.”

If Big Eater Mike were to make it to the main event of the Nathan’s Hot Dog Eating Contest, he would be the first upper extremity amputee to be on stage competing.

“That would be awesome,” Whities said. “I want to show others that I may have one arm, but I’m still up here competing with the best in the world. If I can do it, anyone can.”

30 • APRIL/MAY 2019

For now, Big Eater Mike plans to keep training for his upcoming challenges and contests and help restaurants create their own challenges, and he’s even prepping for a couple redemption challenges, one being at Burgers and Blues in Ridgeland. His favorite challenge that he’s creating is with Salsa’s Mexican Grill in Flowood: a five-pound burrito challenge.

“Burritos are life,” Whities laughed.

Burritos have been some of Whities’ favorite challenges, so it’s only fitting that he’s helping create a burrito challenge. He’s also assisted with a taco challenge at Green Ghost Tacos, a

five-pound burger at Rooster’s, and he’s working with Basil’s on creating a giant pizza.

Keep up with Mike and all his contests and challenges on YouTube under the username BigEaterMike, and follow along on Facebook at www.facebook.com/bigeatermike. edm

Mike Whities and a friend ate their way through a 28-inch pizza at Rizzi Cafe in Arlington, Tenn.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 31

Jeff and Pat Scrimsher

32 • APRIL/MAY 2019

{ fresh from the farm }

PJ Farm Is One of Few USDA Certified Organic Farms in State story and photography by julian brunt

T

here are only a handful of USDA certified organic farms in Mississippi. It seems like a certification farmers would be standing in line to get, but it’s simply not the case. It isn’t an easy certification to achieve, and the complicated and demanding process prevents most growers from making the attempt. Certified organic means the food must be at least 95% organic, is free of synthetics, no pesticides, chemical fertilizers, or dyes, and no industrial solvents, irradiation, or genetic engineering was used to produce it. The land has to have been chemical-free for years, and meticulous records must be kept for the USDA to review.

It’s a tough row to hoe.

Few farmers have been willing to go to so much trouble, but times are changing, and people are becoming increasingly concerned with the quality of the food they feed their family.

One of the oldest farms taking advantage of the new interest in organics is PJ Farm in Saucier. Pat and Jeff Scrimsher started the farm in 2010 growing vegetables, raising chickens, and selling eggs – all 100% organic. But, over the years, the public’s interest has grown and changed substantially. The chickens are gone, the vegetables still flourish, but the interest in medicinals has increased dramatically.

Their business model is a simple and admirable one.

Pat describes it this way, “We offer certified organic foods at reasonable prices to help make a healthy lifestyle within everyone’s reach.” And, to back up their claims of the importance of living healthy, Pat and Jeff live a purely organic lifestyle, which means that at least 98% of everything they consume is certified organic.

So, what’s the big deal about organics? Most obviously, vegetables raised with the level of care to be certified organic and fresh picked to sell at the market just taste better. The Soil Association says that including organics in your diet will increase the intake of vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, and essential fatty acids. No pesticides are used in organic farming (remember, they are poisons!), so you are helping to protect the environment as well.

In response to the growing interest in medicinal herbs, Pat is now a certified herbalist. She took the year-long course given by renowned herbalist Rosemary Gladstar, who owns and operates the California School of Herbal Studies in Forestville, California. As a result of that training, you might find fresh turmeric, ginger, wild lettuce (an all-natural and nonaddictive pain killer), turmeric tincture (an anti-inflammatory), homemade soaps, and an interesting array of teas, including

passion flower, lemon balm, yaupon, nettle, and catnip at the market. The Scrimshers will be happy to tell you the benefit of each herb or tincture.

PJ Farm still offers vegetables and their springtime assortment includes bedding plants, freshly harvested kale, Swiss chard, fennel, and sage, but remember, the selection changes with the season. The closer we get to summer, the more tomatoes, peppers, beans, and peas will show up. If you doubt that being organic makes a difference, take the taste test.

Compare a hot house tomato from a big box grocery store to a just picked organic tomato from a farmers market. The same taste test works for most vegetables and fruits. Give it a try, you will be made a true believer.

Being certified organic by the USDA is a complicated process and still requires the manual labor traditional farming demands. The Scrimshers are so passionate about the organic lifestyle that they gladly take on the burden the USDA

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 33

34 • APRIL/MAY 2019

certification requires and the boots in the field that a small farm requires. It is a testament to their dedication.

The Scrimshers will be glad to share their experiences with you and answer any questions you might have. edm

WHERE TO FIND PJ FARM

PJ Farm 19102 W. Honey Branch Rd., Saucier 228.424.2613 www.pjfarm.com

Gulfport Harbor Market In Jones Park, Gulfport Harbor Every Wednesday 9 a.m. - 1 p.m.

Florence Gardens Farmers Market 12321 Preservation Dr., Gulfport First Sunday of each month 1 p.m. - 4 p.m.

Long Beach Farmers Market On the corner of W. 1st St. and Church Ave., Long Beach Every Saturday 9 a.m. - noon Lyman Community Farmers Market 13472 Highway 49, Lyman Third Sunday of each month 1 p.m. - 4 p.m.

Ocean Springs Fresh Market 1000 Washington Ave, Ocean Springs Every Saturday 9 a.m. - 1 p.m. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 35

Mudbug Madness 15 Crawfish Dishes You’ll Love T

here’s something about this time of year that puts everyone in the mood to be outside whenever they can.

Whether it’s enjoying a nice day on the front porch, going for a walk, or hosting a cookout, Spring is the perfect time to enjoy the outdoors. It seems that one of the most popular things to do this time of year is to host a crawfish boil.

Several pounds of crawfish, potatoes, corn, and sausage will be enjoyed this crawfish season, and some of the best crawfish is when it’s incorporated into other dishes.

Several restaurants across our state use crawfish in some of the most savory, delicious dishes, and each one is unique

to the restaurant in which it’s created. From dips to pastas to classic crawfish ètouffée, crawfish season is in full swing, and these restaurants are taking advantage. Check out some of our favorite crawfish dishes at restaurants all throughout Mississippi. edm

Crawfish Poutine Fete au Fete StrEATery - Jackson Opened recently in Cultivation Food Hall, Fete au Fete StrEATery focuses on upscale Southern comfort food with a Louisiana twist. Home to the original Crawfish Poutine, Fete au Fete’s dish is a Cajun twist on poutine that includes spicy fried new potatoes smothered with pepper jack cheese and their butter crawfish ètouffée.

36 • APRIL/MAY 2019

Catfish Parmesan Crawdad’s - Merigold Open since 1984, Crawdad’s originally served crawfish and could only seat six people. Today, the restaurant has a full menu that also includes steaks, fish, and seafood.

An original creation, their Catfish Parmesan is baked in seasoned breadcrumbs and served over a Mississippi Blue Rice cake, then topped with crawfish sauce. It’s the perfect combination for catfish and crawfish lovers to devour.

Crawfish Pimento Dip Harvey’s - Columbus, Starkville, and Tupelo Pimento cheese is a Southern staple, and adding crawfish just makes it even better. Baked pimento cheese topped with crawfish tails and served with crostini is the best way to kick off your meal at Harvey’s.

Swamp Po Boy Chesterfield’s - Hattiesburg The menu at Chesterfield’s is extensive, but a crowd favorite has to be the Swamp Po Boy. This original po boy starts with fresh toasted New Orleans French bread and is loaded with roast beef, fried crawfish tails, fried jalapeños, Rotel cheese, brown gravy, and comes served with a side of Chesterfield’s seashore fries.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 37

Crawfish Pot Pie King’s Tavern - Natchez You can’t get more Southern than a classic pot pie. Add a heaping serving of crawfish tails and you’ve got the best of both Southern and Cajun worlds. Natchez is also the biscuit capital of the world, so the Crawfish Pot Pie at King’s Tavern is topped with a homemade bacon-thyme crusted biscuit that makes for a pot pie experience like no other.

Crawfish Enchiladas The Mallard - Summit The Mallard, located on Lake Dixie Springs, is serving up Crawfish Enchiladas filled with crawfish tails, pepper jack cheese, onions, and cayenne pepper all stuffed and baked into a flour tortilla, served over rice pilaf. These enchiladas have been made the same way since 1984 from the original recipe of Ann Carruth, the owner of the original restaurant that was located in Jackson.

38 • APRIL/MAY 2019

Crawfish Au Gratin Harvest Grill - Meridian If you love anything served au gratin, head to Meridian to try out Harvest Grill’s Crawfish Au Gratin. Crawfish tails are tossed in a light au gratin sauce then baked and served with homemade crostini for dipping.

Crawfish Ètouffée Darwell’s Café - Long Beach Darwell’s Café Too - Pearl Darwell’s Café in Long Beach and Darwell’s Café Too in Pearl offer Southern and Cajun classics, and that, of course, includes crawfish étouffèe.

Their decadent, homemade étouffèe comes served with rice and shrimp and will fulfill any Cajun cravings.

Crawfish Nachos The Ole Biloxi Fillin’ Station - Biloxi Grab a basket of nachos from The Ole Biloxi Fillin’ Station that includes cheddar cheese, pico de gallo, sweet-n-spicy sauce, cilantro, and crawfish all piled high on top of fresh fried corn tortilla chips. For an extra kick, add a handful of jalapeños on top for a savory snack or side dish.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 39

Crawfish Tacos Blue Crab Grill - Laurel and Waynesboro With locations in Laurel and Waynesboro, Blue Crab Grill’s Crawfish Tacos are full of sautéed Louisiana crawfish tails on buttered, toasted tortillas topped with Mexican cheese, house-made pico de gallo, buttered onions, jalapeños, and their secret Mexican ranch.

Cajun Bread Soulshine Pizza Factory Flowood, Oxford, Ridgeland Perfect for an appetizer before your pizza or even as a meal, Soulshine’s Cajun Bread is French bread covered with alfredo sauce topped with crawfish tails and mozzarella cheese. The bread is baked to goldenbrown perfection and served with marinara dipping sauce.

Crawditty Omelet Restaurant Tyler - Starkville Restaurant Tyler is known in Starkville for their delicious dinners and blue plate specials, and they’re also big in the Starkville brunch scene. Next time you find yourself at Restaurant Tyler during brunch, opt for their Crawditty Omelet: a cheddar cheese omelet drowned in crawfish sauce.

There’s nothing better than brunch and crawfish!

40 • APRIL/MAY 2019

Fried Crawfish Tails J. Broussard’s - Columbus Known for their Cajun and creole-inspired dishes, J. Broussard’s is serving up fried Louisiana crawfish tails this crawfish season. Enjoy them on their own as an appetizer or side with creole honey mustard vinaigrette to dip or add them to a house salad with the same honey mustard dressing.

Fried Green Tomatoes with Crawfish Sauce The Anthony - Vicksburg Dine, drink, and celebrate at The Anthony in Vicksburg with their Cajun-inspired Fried Green Tomatoes.

One of their most popular appetizers, The Anthony’s Fried Green Tomatoes are perfectly fried and topped with a spicy crawfish cream sauce, making for a delicious appetizer or shareable side dish.

Crawfish Bread Nola Restaurant - Indianola Nola focuses on simple and unique Southern cuisine. With a name like Nola, you can expect seafood-centered dishes, oysters, steaks, and, of course, crawfish dishes. Their Crawfish Bread is a hoagie roll stuffed with a buttery crawfish mixture, cheese, and sautéed vegetables. For now, Crawfish Bread is just a specialty item, but customers love it so much that it might soon appear full-time on the menu. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 41

REEF RESURRECTION

42 • APRIL/MAY 2019

Oysters just taken from a Deer Island farm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 43

Off-bottom oysters in floating cages Longline oyster farming

44 • APRIL/MAY 2019

Off-Bottom Oyster Farming Introduced to Mississippi Waters story and photography by julian brunt

M

ississippi has twelve thousand acres of oyster reefs located just off Pass Christian. In years past, the harvest was substantial; in fact, pre-Hurricane Katrina, the oyster harvest had been as high as almost 500,000 sacks. Last year, 10,000 sacks were harvested.

Hurricane Katrina devastated the reefs, followed by the BP oil spill, and flooding on the Mississippi river necessitated the opening of the Bonnet Carré Spillway in 2008, 2011, 2016, and 2018. The spillway is opened when flooding threatens Baton Rouge and New Orleans, but the fresh water that is released ends up flooding the Mississippi oyster reefs and killing the salt water loving mollusks. The combined effect on oyster reefs has been devastating.

The Department of Marine Resources (DMR) is working to rebuild the reefs, but a new technique of oyster farming, offbottom, has been introduced by DMR to Mississippi waters.

The farms are located just south of Deer Island, and many experts think it is the future of the industry. The approved area is 77 acres in size and is broken up into two-acre leases. Not just anyone can acquire a lease. Applicants must attend a DMR sponsored training program and receive all the required documents and permits. It is not a simple nor inexpensive process.

Off-bottom oyster farming involves suspending the oysters in cages in the middle of the water column. They are off the muddy bottom, where many predators live, and the cages protect them from sheep head and other fish that can crack open an oyster shell. In fact, the conditions are so ideal they mature at almost twice the rate of on-bottom oysters and can be of commercial size in as little as a year. Living in a clean, healthy environment has also had the effect of making offbottom oysters grown in warm Mississippi waters absolutely delicious.

Off-bottom oyster farming has been very successful in Alabama, Louisiana, and Texas, and many experts think that Murder Point in Bayou la Batre is the gold standard. Murder Point oysters are in high demand at fine dining restaurants due to their quality and a very aggressive marketing program. The technique is labor intensive, though, so the oysters can sell for as much as $3.50 each.

These are not the oysters that you will find on a po-boy or a seafood platter, but connoisseur are raving about them.

The good news is that chefs that have sampled

Deer Island oysters say they are just as good as Murder Point.

Executive Chef Kristin Wade from the Beau Rivage described them as “Biloxi Butter,” and the name seems to be catching on.

Chef Austin Sumrall of White Pillars in Biloxi was delighted with the oysters he sampled from Anita and Mike Arguelles oyster farm, French Hermit Oysters, and described them as salty, buttery, with hints of cucumber.

Off-bottom oysters may very well be the future of the oyster industry. Consumers are beginning to realize that if you want best quality ingredients, whether it is prime beef, free range, heritage breed pork, organic vegetables, or oysters, you are going to have to pay the price. I have tried Deer Island oyster several times and can assure you they were some of the best I have ever had.

Deer Island oysters should be available in Mississippi restaurants this year. edm

Freshly shucked oyster eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 45

Chef Andre Rush

46 • APRIL/MAY 2019

{ from mississippi to beyond }

Chef Andre Rush:

Military Muscle with Mississippi Heart story By Kathy K. Martin | photos submitted

W

hether he’s cooking for the President at the White House, talking to school children in Mississippi, or teaching soldiers how to cook, Chef Andre Rush doesn’t waver on Southern values and above-and-beyond customer service. “My audience may have good food all the time or never have it at all. I was raised to treat everyone well,” says the Washington, D.C.-based chef and speaker.

These core values and a passion for food were instilled in Rush as a boy growing up in Columbus, Mississippi, the youngest of eight children. An athletic guy who played football and ran track at Lee High School and also loved to eat, he recalls neighbors that were more like family and an atmosphere of hospitality in his small town that usually revolved around food. His father taught him his work ethic, he says, and his mother taught him about compassion and service as she fed

people in need in their home throughout his growing-up years.

“My mother was my first connection to food,” says Rush.

He remembers their extensive garden with peas, corn, and okra. He grew up tasting that food right out of the ground and appreciating the bright and refreshing flavors of homegrown vegetables. His mother also introduced him to the tradition of breaking bread with friends and family every Sunday after church. “We came together, and it was so pleasing to eat surrounded by family. It’s embedded in my memory forever.”

Rush joined the military in 1993, where he further developed his work ethic and prepared meals for the soldiers at military bases and, eventually, the Pentagon. He was working there on 9/11 when the hijacked airplane hit the building, and many of his co-workers died. The tragedy motivated him to sign up for combat duty until he was wounded while on

Alongside two Marines, Chef Rush serves as a guest chef and represents the USO as he participates in a barbecue challenge. The Washington, DC-event involves the military branches and serves about 10,000 people. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 47

patrol in Iraq and retired as a master sergeant in 2017. He continues to serve on the United States Culinary Arts Team and has earned over 150 medals and trophies, while also training over 10,000 troops in the culinary arts.

“I’m still like an over-sized sponge soaking up anything related to food,” says Rush about also developing his skills as an ice carver, pastry chef, chocolatier, and speaker. He especially enjoys speaking to groups of children and the military where he likes to entertain the young ones by doing 2,222 pushups and sharing his thoughts on nutrition, health, and fitness. He does the pushups every day except on Saturdays and Sundays in honor of Mission 22, a program to fight the war against veteran suicide. For military veterans suffering from Post Traumatic Stress Disorder (PTSD) just like himself, he shows them how cooking can be therapeutic, too.

While Rush still maintains a healthy diet and fitness regime today, he can’t help but remember his mother’s homemade caramel cakes. He also recalls the platters of food on his family’s dining table that featured everything from fried green tomatoes, fried catfish, and trout to collard greens, meatloaf, cornbread, and apple pie.

With this collage of food memories, Rush says he likes to give people a taste of his Southern heritage not only as a chef and speaker, but also now through an autobiography and several T.V. shows coming out later this year. He recently appeared on the Rachael Ray show and just returned from a speaking engagement as part of Arnold’s All-Stars, Arnold Schwarzenegger’s foundation that provides academic and athletic programs for children in more than 400 schools.

He also serves as a volunteer for the Military Ambassador Program.

While food is his foundation, Rush believes that with his service attitude and Mississippi work ethic he can wear many hats in his career, not just the toque. “I hope to redefine the definition of chef.” edm www.chefrush.com 48 • APRIL/MAY 2019

Chef Rush’s Famous Sweet Potato Hushpuppies 1/2 cup cooked sweet potato purée or cooked winter squash purée 2 large eggs 1/4 cup cornmeal 1/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/4 cup sour cream 1/4 cup diced onions 1/4 cup diced red peppers 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon Cayenne pepper and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 2 tablespoons finely chopped onion Shortening - enough for frying (deep frying is best) Preheat shortening to 385 degrees F in a deep skillet, Dutch oven, or fryer.

Thoroughly blend the other ingredients in a mixing bowl.

Drop by the tablespoon into the hot fat. If you’re deepfrying, the pups should take only 2 minutes. In a shallow pan, you may have to cook them a little longer and turn them so that each side is browned evenly. The exterior should be crisp, the inside moist and mousse-like.

Beef Tenderloin with chimichurri sauce 1 tablespoon oil 1/3 beef filet tenderloin (whole) 2 tablespoons sea salt 2 tablespoons fresh cracked pepper 2 sprigs rosemary, remove leaves and chop Chimichurri Sauce (recipe below) Rub oil over tenderloin and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and rosemary.

Put tenderloin on the grill at medium heat, and turn every 4-6 minutes until internal temperature reaches 135 degrees F. Remove tenderloin from grill and let rest 5-10 minutes before slicing.

Top each slice with Chimichurri Sauce to serve.

Chimichurri Sauce 4 cloves garlic 1-1/4 cups flat-leaf parsley with steams 3 tablespoons fresh oregano leaves 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar 1/2 teaspoon salt 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Umami-Style Salmon Grill 1 teaspoon garlic powder 1 teaspoon lemon pepper 1 cup brown sugar 1 teaspoon kosher salt Juice of 1/2 lemon 1-1/2 cups soy sauce 1 cup water 1/2 cup vegetable oil 1 tablespoon sesame oil 2-1/2 pounds salmon filets/steaks In a small bowl, whisk together all ingredients except salmon until sugar is dissolved.

Place the salmon in a plastic storage bag or container and refrigerate 1 hour or overnight. Make sure salmon is submerged.

Preheat grill for medium heat. Cook to desired temperature (internal temperature of 120 degrees F for medium rare, 145 degrees F for fully cooked).

Mississippi Baked Chicken When we weren’t frying our chicken, here’s the way we did it up for Sunday family dinners at the Rush home—using chickens my dad raised and dressed. (By the way, for me this is a single-serving size; for everyone else it’s four servings!) - Chef Andre Rush 1 quart of water for brine 4 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon salt, divided 4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts 2 tablespoons olive oil or melted butter 1 teaspoon fresh black pepper 1 teaspoon paprika 1 teaspoon garlic powder Preheat oven to 450 degrees F. Fill a large bowl or baking dish with warm water and add the 4 tablespoons of salt. Stir until salt dissolves.

Soak chicken breasts in salt water (brine) for at least 25 minutes.

Remove chicken from water and pat dry with a paper towel.

Place chicken in a large glass baking pan, coating both sides with the butter or olive oil.

Mix together 1 teaspoon salt, pepper, paprika, and garlic powder. Rub seasoning mix into chicken.

Bake for 15-18 minutes. (Can also sear chicken before placing in oven for 3 minutes on each side and place in oven for 10 minutes.)

Let rest on plate for at least 5 minutes before serving.

Finely dice garlic, parsley, and oregano. Put in a bowl and add vinegar, salt, and olive oil. Mix together and set aside for use or refrigerate eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 49

Smoked Pork Loin with Blackberry Chutney

by Melissa Cookston

Serves 3-4 portions 1 (3- to 4-pound) boneless pork loin 3 tablespoons grill seasoning 2 tablespoons wholegrain mustard Blackberry Chutney (recipe follows)

Easter Sunday Sensation M elissa Cookston’s Smoked Pork Loin with Blackberry Chutney is the perfect Easter Sunday dish for an Easter potluck lunch, formal dinner, or a simply satisfying springtime meal. The chutney uses blackberries to bring a rich sweetness and beautiful contrast to the pork. edm

Born and raised in the Mississippi Delta, Melissa Cookston is a 7-time world barbecue champion and owner of Steak by Melissa in Southaven and Memphis BBQ Company in Horn Lake, Fayetteville, N.C., and Dunwoody, Ga. Cookston is author of two cookbooks, Smokin in the Boy’s Room and Smokin’ Hot in the South.

50 • APRIL/MAY 2019

Prepare a smoker to cook at 250 degrees F with cherry wood. Rinse the pork loin and trim off the silverskin and excess fat. Sprinkle with the grill seasoning, slather with the mustard, and massage it into the loin.

Place the loin in the smoker and cook for 2 hours or until the internal temperature registers 150 degrees F on a meat thermometer.

Remove from the smoker, cover with aluminum foil, and allow to rest for 10 to 15 minutes. To serve, slice into 1-inch chops and top each with a tablespoon of hot chutney.

Blackberry Chutney 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 medium red onion, finely chopped 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh ginger 1 teaspoon minced garlic 2 jalapeños, finely diced (seeds removed for a milder chutney) 1-pound fresh blackberries 1/3 cup sugar 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar To make the blackberry chutney, heat olive oil in a small saucepan. Add the onion, ginger, and garlic and cook for 4 to 5 minutes until the onion is translucent.

Add the jalapeño and blackberries and cook for 4 minutes. Add the sugar and vinegar and bring to a boil, then decrease the heat and simmer for 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

You’ll serve it hot here, but it can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 1 week and reheated for serving.

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eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 51

Share your recipes!

Do you have a family-favorite dinner recipe? Or a favorite dish that never lasts long at gettogethers? Eat Drink Mississippi wants to feature your recipes in future issues. Please send recipes to info@eatdrinkmississippi.com, or mail them to PO Box 1663, Madison, MS 39130.

DID YOU

KNOW?

• Almost 1 in 4 Mississippians — about 690,000 people — don’t have enough to eat.

• More than 1 in 4 children (28.7%) go to bed hungry most every night.

Stomachs are growling all over the state. Hunger is a problem all across America, but in Mississippi, it’s practically an epidemic.

DONATE NOW! Every $1.00 donated provides seven meals to hungry Mississippians.

www.msfoodnet.org 52 • APRIL/MAY 2019

{ from the bookshelf }

American Pop: A Novel

By Snowden Wright Published by William Morrow

by PAIGE MCKAY

I

f you’re in the market for a new fiction book to dive into this Spring, look no further than Mississippi-native Snowden Wright’s new novel, American Pop. Wright, born and raised in Mississippi, has his B.A. from Dartmouth College and an M.F.A. form Columbia University, and his latest journalistic piece, American Pop, is described as “the story of a family, the story of an empire, the story of a nation.”

Wright, now a resident of Atlanta, has written for The Atlantic, Salon, Esquire, and the New York Daily News, among other publications, and he previously worked as a fiction reader for The New Yorker, Esquire, and The Paris Review. Wright’s smallpress debut, Play Pretty Blues, was the recipient of the 2012 Summer Literary Seminar’s Graywolf Prize.

Wright’s novel introduces an ambitious family building their lives and creating a dynasty over the course of a century.

Moving from Mississippi to Paris to New York and back again, a saga of a family, ambition, passion, and tragedy brings to life an unforgettable Southern dynasty – the Foresters, founders of the world’s first major-soft drink company.

In the novel, you’ll meet Houghton Forester, a man who has always wanted more – “from his time as a young boy in Mississippi, working twelve-hour days at his father’s drugstore; to the moments he first laid eyes on his future wife, Annabelle Teague, a truth Southern belle of aristocrat lineage; to his invention of the delicious fizzy drink that would transform him from tiller boy to the founder of an empire, the Panola Cola Company, and entice a youthful, enterprising nation entering a hopeful new age.” Forester launches a commercial empire in early 20th-century Mississippi with his soft drink, PanCola, and its success puts an extreme amount of pressure on the family to live up to its expectations.

Throughout American Pop, readers learn about Forester’s

family, riddled with secrets, and how his empire came to be.

Readers learn that the Foresters love each other so much that they end up tearing each other apart and what it means to belong to a family. Though the novel is fiction, references to real people, events, establishments, organizations, and locales are used to provide a sense of authenticity.

For more information about Snowden Wright or American Pop, visit www.snowdenwright.com. edm

Snowden Wright Photo by Lorikay Stone Photography

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 53

{ raise your glass }

Simple & Satisfying A

s the temperature outside warms up, our preferred temp for drinks tends to cool down. Nikki Gladd of the blog, Seeded at the Table, created this decadent and unique iced coffee beverage that is perfect for a pick-me-up during warmer weather. edm

Salted Cream Iced Coffee

by Nikki Gladd

Makes 1 serving 1 cup cold brew coffee (recipe on page 65) 2 tablespoons coffee syrup, more or less, to taste (recipe on page 65) 1/4 cup whipped cream 1/8 teaspoon sea salt Pour coffee into cup filled with ice. Stir in the simple syrup. In a small bowl, mix together the whipped cream and salt. Top over the coffee and enjoy.

54 • APRIL/MAY 2019

•

612 UNIVERSITY DR. • STARKVILLE 662.324.6126 WWW.EATLOCALSTARKVILLE.COM MONDAY-THURSDAY 11AM-12AM FRIDAY-SATURDAY 11AM-1AM SUNDAY 11AM-10PM

Southern-Inspired. Seasonally-Crafted. Devilishly Good.

Serving Jackson for Over 10 Years

• •

Lunch served Monday to Saturday from 11:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m.

Dinner served Thursday to Saturday from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m.

1491 Canton Mart Rd. Ste. 12, Jackson 601.957.1441

618 22nd Ave., Meridian | www.harvestgrillms.com | 601-282-5069

DINING GUIDE - DINING GUIDE - DINING GUIDE • DINING GUIDE - DINING GUIDE

Bin 612 boasts a cafe-like atmosphere popular with college students and locals alike. The Bin’s menu offers an eclectic blend of pizzas, panini, burgers and more made with fresh local ingredients.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 55

{ where to eat }

Bread & Butter Bistro 129 Public Square, Batesville • 662.267.1497

story and photography by paige mckay

L

ocated at the corner of Panola Avenue and Public Square at the Batesville town square is a little spot that’s like nothing else in town. Bread and Butter Bistro, open since August 2018, is serving up breakfast and lunch seven days a week in the most unique and homey restaurant in Batesville.

Owner Lisa Taylor moved to Batesville from Memphis 17 years ago, but a restaurant wasn’t necessarily on her radar at the time. She did small catering orders with a friend in Memphis, always made homemade rolls, and catered for small dinner parties, so cooking was always in her DNA even though she was in the dentistry field at the time.

“I’ve always loved food and cooking for my family,” Taylor said. “Feeding people brings me joy, so it was kind of like my ministry.”

56 • APRIL/MAY 2019

Fast forward to today, Taylor is now a full-time restaurant owner and on site at Bread and Butter every day. Taylor originally wanted to open Bread and Butter as a coffeehouse type of place because there isn’t one in town, but it quickly turned into a full-service breakfast and lunch spot instead.

From homemade cinnamon rolls and pop tarts in the morning to sandwiches and giant slices of pizza for lunch, Bread and Butter is the perfect spot for a coffee and pastry before work or a simple and delicious lunch.

Everything is homemade and made fresh daily by Taylor and her staff. In the mornings, customers can find baked goods and pastries like cinnamon rolls, pop tarts, yeast rolls, assorted muffins, avocado toast, and beignets. Sausage, bacon, ham, and egg can even be added to the rolls to make a breakfast

Chocolate Chess Pie

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 57

Tomato Basil Soup and Grilled Cheese Sandwich sandwich. And, of course, each breakfast bite can be made complete with a cup of coffee.

For lunch, customers can expect classic Southern favorites like Homemade Chicken Salad, Pimento Cheese, Egg and Olive Salad, BLT Sandwich, Club Sandwich, and the Must Have Burger, a burger served with hot bacon jam on an English muffin – a crowd favorite. A soup of the day is also available daily and comes with a grilled cheese. Complete any meal with a side of Homemade Chips, Sweet Potato Fries, Bogies Famous Potato Salad, or Sea Salt Fries. For something lighter, opt for a Chef Salad, Greens & Veggies, or a Spinach Salad. If you have the kids in tow, there’s something for them, too. Choose from a Grilled Cheese, Peanut Butter and Jelly Sandwich, or Chicken Tenders.

Along with everyday menu items, Taylor and her staff post daily specials on Facebook, so there’s always something different available at Bread and Butter, such as pizza, quiche, and even chicken and waffles. Taylor also encourages people to order things that might not be on the menu.

“If someone walks in and they think of something they want, we try to do it,” she said. “We keep a roll of bologna if someone wants a fried bologna sandwich, sometimes people ask for pimento cheese on their burger. If we have it, we can do it.”

Sunday lunches have also become popular at Bread and Butter. Along with the standard menu items, a Sunday lunch special is also available, and it’s usually “whatever we can come up with,” says Taylor. Lunches have been anywhere from chicken pasta to meatloaf and potatoes. Regular menu items are available on Sundays, too.

58 • APRIL/MAY 2019

Not only can you stop in Bread and Butter for breakfast and lunch, but you can even host a private event or party in the restaurant or have them cater your next event. Customers have rented out the space for anniversary parties, birthday parties, and other group events where guests can opt for full dinner service or heavy appetizers – whatever they want, Taylor will make it happen.

“We don’t really have any rules,” Taylor joked. “That’s what’s fun about being a smaller establishment in a small town, you just make it up as you go.”

Taylor has been “making it up” as she goes for nearly a year now and has no plans of slowing down. She plans to have a deck built in front of the restaurant during the springtime and is constantly trying new things to see what works best. But her main focus is still keeping people fed and happy, and that’s exactly what she’s been doing.

Next time you’re traveling I55 in North Mississippi, make a point to stop through downtown Batesville for a quick bite in the cute, mismatched interior restaurant that’s brought charm to the little town square. Bread and Butter is also dog-friendly, so you can bring your pup for a treat, too, because every dog gets a piece of bacon on the house when they visit the bistro. Taylor’s goal is to make sure everyone feels warm and welcomed upon arrival and full and satisfied when they leave, and she accomplishes that goal daily.

Bread and Butter Bistro is open seven days a week from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. Be sure to check out their Facebook page each day for daily specials and Sunday lunch specials. edm

Homemade Pop Tarts

Bread & Butter’s mascot, Butter

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 59

60 • APRIL/MAY 2019

{ featured festival}

Inaugural Mississippi Food and Wine Festival to Highlight History and Cuisine of Magnolia State story By paige mckay | photos submitted by fondren renaissance foundation

G

oing on its fifth year, the 2019 Mississippi Craft Beer Festival will be held Friday, June 14th. This year, the Craft Beer Festival is a part of the inaugural Mississippi Food and Wine Festival, a three-day event presented by Fondren Renaissance Foundation.

The Mississippi Food and Wine Festival is set for the weekend of June 14th-16th and will be a major fundraiser for the Fondren Renaissance Foundation benefiting its programming and efforts in and around the Fondren area. A portion of the funds raised will be given to food-centered charities of interested nominated by those participating in the event.

Several culinary preview events were held throughout 2018 leading up to the inaugural weekend, including two private dinners and two large-scale culinary events centered around a barbecue and a gospel brunch at The Cedars.

The private chef dinners featured Alex Harrell of Franklin Marigny in New Orleans and Austin Sumrall of White Pillars in Biloxi.

The Mississippi Food and Wine Festival has been two years in the making, and its purpose is to promote the city of Jackson as a culinary destination and to highlight the talent of the renowned chefs in the area.

Friday night kicks off with the Craft Beer Festival where over 110 craft beers will be available from over three dozen breweries from our state and across the South. The Craft Beer Festival will be held on Duling Avenue under a tent and will be a rain or shine event. Tickets are $35 in advance. In conjunction with Friday night’s festivities, private dinners will be held at Brent’s, Albert’s, and the Capital Club downtown. Individual tickets for these private dinners are $125 per person.

The grand tasting for the Food and Wine Festival is set for Saturday night and will be the highlight of the weekend. The grand tasting will highlight the history and cuisine of the city of Jackson and will also feature chefs throughout Mississippi and the Southern community. Themes for the event revolve

around Mississippi’s regions including Coastal, Delta, Farmer’s Market, and the Blues, and each tented area will be decorated to incorporate these fun themes. The Food and Wine Festival will also be held on Duling Avenue. Tickets are $80 in advance and will be increased at the door.

Founded to promote Fondren’s eclectic and award-

winning community, the Mississippi Food and Wine Festival will incorporate chefs and establishments from not only the Fondren and Jackson community, but all areas across Mississippi and the South.

Tickets for the Mississippi Food and Wine Festival go on sale May 1st and can be purchased at www.msfoodandwine. com. edm eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 61

Food Festivals & Events April 11th

Taste of Flowood Join the Flowood Chamber of Commerce for an evening of mouth-watering tastings from area restaurants and specialty stores, live music, activities for children, and much more! The annual Taste of Flowood is set for Thursday, April 11th, from 5:30 p.m. to 8 p.m. at Mirror Lake Plaza. Tickets are $25 each, and children under age 10 get in free. To purchase tickets and for more information, visit www.flowoodchamber.com.

•••

April 19th

Tupelo - Wine Downtown Visit Downtown Tupelo on April 19th for Wine Downtown.

Participating businesses will have wine and food pairings during this progressive wine tasting event. For more information, visit www.tupelomainstreet.com or call 662-841-6598.

•••

April 13th

Taste of Starkville On April 13th, the Starkville Area Arts Council will present the Cotton District Arts Festival and Taste of Starkville in Starkville’s historic Cotton District.

The Cotton District Arts Festival blends incredible art, mood, and music into one of Mississippi’s most entertaining events. The annual Taste of Starkville restaurant competition brings together Starkville’s top local restaurants to showcase their elite dishes. Previous competitions have included everything from Amish Peanut Butter Spread to Philly Cheese Steak Egg Rolls. The festival is host to over 125 artists, as well as a juried arts competition and show, Writer’s Village, International Village, Children’s Village, Celtic Village, Taste of Starkville restaurant competition, 5K and 1 mile runs, Pet Parade, student art competition, and much more. For more information, visit www.cdafestival.com.

62 • APRIL/MAY 2019

May 3rd-4th

Greenwood - Que on the Yazoo Que on the Yazoo is a barbecue competition on the banks of the Yazoo River in historic downtown Greenwood. The event is sanctioned through the Memphis Barbecue Network and is a Patio & PRO Competition. Que on the Yazoo also features a steak cook-off, sponsored by the Steak Cook-Off Association (SCA). The barbecue competition is open to teams and judges from throughout the Southeast to cook and sample the barbecue offerings. The festival also features live music and other activities for BBQ enthusiasts of all ages throughout the weekend. There is no admission fee. For more information, call 662-453-7625 or visit www.queontheyazoo.com.

May 9th

May 3rd-5th

Jackson - Greek Fest Greek Fest offers the opportunity to learn and experience Greek culture right here in Mississippi. The event will be held on May 3rd-5th at Holy Trinity - St. John the Theologian Greek Orthodox Church in Jackson and will feature authentic Greek food, dancing, homemade goods, and games for children. For more information, call 601-355-6325 or visit www.facebook. com/jacksongreekfest.

Taste of Ocean Springs Food & Wine Festival The Annual Taste of Ocean Springs Food & Wine Festival features “tastes” from more than 20 area restaurants and bars.

Come gather underneath the live oaks, enjoy light music and exceptional “tastes.” The festival will be held from 6:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m. in Downtown Ocean Springs. Tickets go on sale April 1st. For more information, call 228-875-4424 or visit www.oceanspringschamber.com.

•••

•••

June 1st

May 5th

Belhaven Grilled Cheese Festival The 2019 Belhaven Grilled Cheese Festival, or Cinco de Grilled Cheese, will be held on Sunday, May 5th, from 2 to 6 p.m. at Laurel Street Park in Jackson. Now in its second year, the Belhaven Grilled Cheese Festival will include an afternoon of fun for the whole family including live music and, of course, plenty of grilled cheese sandwiches. Blankets, chairs, and refreshments are encouraged! If you would like to compete in the grilled cheese competition, or if you would like to volunteer, contact makebelhavencheesy@gmail.com. For more information, visit www.facebook.com/Belhaven-GrilledCheese-Festival.

Tylertown Walthall County Dairy Festival The annual Walthall County Dairy Festival is set for June 1st and is sure to be a day of fun for the whole family. Be sure to arrive early to get your free ice cream and milk, and stick around for a day of entertainment, pageants, sack races, an ice cream eating contest, butter churning, an antique car show, and much more. Entry to the event is free, and food and refreshments will be available for purchase from local nonprofits. Stick around for the firework show to end the night at 9 p.m. For more information, visit www.co.walthall.ms.us.

To have your food festival or culinary event included in future issues, please contact us at info@eatdrinkmississippi.com. All submissions are subject to editor’s approval. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 63

Recipe Index

Advertisers Index

Beef Tenderloin with Chimichurri Sauce, 49 Blackberry Chutney, 50 Bourbon Peach Sauce, 17 Chimichurri Sauce, 49 Cold Brew Iced Coffee, 65 Coffee Syrup, 65 Crawfish Bisque, 22 Crawfish Dipping Sauce, 8 Crawfish Pies, 23 Duck Confit, 15 Fluffy Fruit Salad, 8 French Toast, 17 Hot Baked Crawfish Dip, 22 Mississippi Baked Chicken, 49 Piña Colada Cake, 8 Salted Cream Iced Coffee, 54 Smoked Pork Loin with Blackberry Chutney, 50 Sweet Potato Hushpuppies, 49 Umami-Style Salmon Grill, 49 Vanilla Bourbon Praline Pecans, 17

Bin 612, 55 Crazy Cat Eat Up, 55 Giardina’s, 9 Harvest Grill, 55 Hattiesburg Craft Beer Festival, 7 McEwen’s, 55 Mississippi Beef Council, 2 Mississippi Food Network, 52 Mississippi Children’s Museum, Back Cover Simmons Catfish, 9 Spoonfudge, 7 Taste of Flowood, 9 The Kitchen Table, 9 Visit Greenwood, 3 Visit Jackson, 4 & 5

STORE INFORMATION from pages 12-13 Amazon www.amazon.com

Roux Royale 600 Royal St. - New Orleans, LA 70130 855.344.7700 www.shoprouxroyale.com

Kirkland’s www.kirklands.com

Southerndipity booth in The Honey Pot 410 Brookway Blvd. - Brookhaven, MS 39601 601.835.8600

Mardi Gras Outlet 866.895.3818 www.mardisgrasoutlet.com Party City Locations in Flowood, Gulfport, and Ridgeland www.partycity.com

Southerndipity booth in Vendor’s Emporium 210 Highway 51 N - Brookhaven, MS 39601 601.833.0031

Follow us on Instagram to see some of the tasty, local bites we’ve discovered!

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MISSISSIPPI

www.instagram.com/eatdrinkmississippi 64 • APRIL/MAY 2019

Cold Brew Iced Coffee

by Nikki Gladd

Servings: 3-1/2 cups coffee concentrate (6-8 servings) 8 ounces (half of a 1-pound bag) coarsely ground coffee beans (I prefer Pike Place Medium Roast from Starbucks) 6 cups filtered water , at room temperature Supplies: 1 gallon container or pitcher Wooden spoon Fine mesh strainer Cheesecloth or paper towels Large bowl Place coffee beans in at least a 1-gallon sized container or pitcher. Slowly pour the 6 cups of water into the container, over the beans. Gently stir with a wooden spoon, just to saturate all beans. Cover tightly and let sit at room temperature for at least 12 hours and no more than 24 hours.

Line a mesh strainer with cheesecloth or a paper towel.

Set over a large bowl. Slowly pour some of the coffee through the strainer and allow to drip through. Change out the paper towel as needed. Continue to pour the liquid through until only beans and just a little liquid is left in the pitcher/container. (Stop before the bottom beans start dropping into the strainer.)

Store in a covered pitcher or carafe in the fridge. To use: Mix desired amount of coffee concentrate with desired

amount of water or milk. Sweeten to taste with choice of sweetener. I mix about 1/2 cup of coffee with 1/4 cup water and 1/4 cup milk, then sweeten to taste.

Notes: To double the recipe, use a much larger container and use 11-1/2 cups water for a 1-pound bag of coffee. Make within one week of grinding coffee for best flavor. Let coffee shop grind the beans for you for free.

Coffee Syrup

by Nikki Gladd

This simple syrup will store on your shelf for months. Use it to sweeten your iced coffee beverage - or any cold drink - instead of table sugar so it blends nicely without needing to dissolve.

3-1/2 cups water 3 cups granulated sugar 1/2 cup light brown sugar 1 tablespoon lemon juice In a medium saucepan, cook and stir the water and sugars over medium-high heat until thickened, about 1015 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the lemon juice. Cool completely.

Using a funnel, pour into a bottle with an air-tight lid or pump dispenser. Store on your counter-top up to two months.

Recipe notes: The lemon juice is to keep the liquid sugar from crystallizing and does not add lemon flavor. Add 3 tablespoons of vanilla extract to make this a vanilla syrup, or try any other favorite flavored extract.

Digital Subscriptions Available! eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI Crawfish Cravings

15

crawfish dishes you will love

April/May 2019

On desktop computer, visit www.magzter.com and search for Eat Drink Mississippi or visit www.eatdrinkmississippi.com for a direct link.

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Download the free Eat Drink Mississippi app to purchase and view in app.

Oyster Farming | Bread & Butter Bistro | Mississippi Food & Wine Festival

VOLUME 8, NUMBER 3

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Getting a taste of Mississippi has never been easier! eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 65

Till We Eat Again

BILL DABNEY PHOTOGRAPHY

Jay Reed, a graduate of Ole Miss, lives in Starkville where he is a pharmacist by day and a freelance food writer by day off. He is a member of the Southern Foodways Alliance and writes "Eats One Ate," a weekly column in the Starkville Daily News.

APRIL/MAY 2019 2019 66 • APRIL/MAY

Frying Chicken at Home Is a Daunting Task

I

BY JAY REED

’ve been thinking a lot lately about chicken. It shouldn’t be a surprise, really, given the current chicken takeover.

We’ve reached a point in our society where chicken is almost everywhere.

Chicken sandwiches, chicken burritos, chicken pizza, chicken calzones, et cetera, et cetera, ad nauseam. But did you ever see a chicken omelet? Is that just too much poultry to handle in one bite? Is it too weird for chicken to be wrapped in …chicken?

Consider the restaurant situation. Chicken-centric venues are legion: Popeye’s, Church’s, KFC, Zaxby’s, Bojangles, Slim Chickens, Abner’s, Raising Cane’s, Wing Stop, Chick-fil-A – and in other parts of the country, even more. Most of these restaurants do not offer hamburgers, but almost all fast food joints that started off with burgers now sell some form of chicken.

Come to think of it, you can make a “Chicken Burger,” but do you ever see “Beef Drumsticks?” Is there such a thing as “Cow-Fried Chicken Breast?” Of course not.

The chicken force is strong. And I reckon we’re okay with that, or some of these places would be out of business.

Fried chicken is a particular interest of mine. I’ve written in these pages before about our family Christmas Day tradition of having fried chicken. That’s serious fried chicken love to give it that kind of attention. Back in the day, it was also my favorite birthday dinner.

At the beginning of 2018, I made it one of my New Year’s resolutions to learn how to fry the bird myself. A full quarter into 2019, I am still an utter failure – that is, if one fails by not trying at all. I can’t explain. I just never got around to it, but I’m still determined.

It may be that I don’t have the right tools. My mother, who has been the most commonly conscripted fry cook in my lifetime, uses an electric skillet that possibly predates me. Using that, she can keep the temperature steady, and that sounds like something that would be important. Of course, lots of folks insist on using a cast iron skillet, and I do have a few of those. Unfortunately, my repertoire in cast iron cooking doesn’t go much past cornbread. I’m not even sure the ones I have are deep enough for proper chicken frying, but you have not because you fry not.

I hear tell that some folks swear by the marinade. I’ve seen recipes that talk about soaking it in buttermilk overnight, and I’ve seen menus that boast of marinating cagefree happy chicken parts in sweet tea. Rumor has it that a certain chicken sandwich restaurant marinates the meat in pickle juice. I haven’t tried any of these methods personally (I guess that’s a given, considering my previous confession), but I am intrigued by all the options.

And what about the batter? My mother’s coating method is simple: remove the skin, salt the chicken, shake it in a bag with flour. Done. It’s not one of those super crispy shells, but there are still crispy bits about, and it remains the standard by which I measure all others. I do enjoy an extra crunchy coating from time to time, though. I recently had the pleasure of going to Willie Mae’s Scotch House in New Orleans, and … wow. The batter was a curtain of crispiness wrapped around the chicken, resulting in a beautiful shattering in every bite. I know we have places in Mississippi that are equally renowned, I just haven’t yet had the pleasure. Perhaps a fried chicken tour is in order.

Allow me to insert a brief opinion here. The best piece of chicken is the thigh. If there was a restaurant named “Thigh Stop” or “Buffalo Wild Thighs,” I’d probably eat out more often.

Now, for a short chicken rant. What in the world is a boneless wing, and how did we get to that place in our culinary culture? Have you had a wing? Sure you have. You know how much meat is on an average wing. You know what it looks like when it comes off the bone. You know that true wing meat doesn’t at all resemble the thick chunk of chicken breast that most certainly composes the allegedly boneless wing.

You can go ahead and order this imaginary chicken limb if you like, but you’ll have to live with the truth. And chicken “fingers?” Don’t even get me started. edm

Gourmet Grilling | My Delicious Mississippi Life | Watermelon Carnival

Natchez Food Tour | Clean Kitchen | Chefs of the Coast

Deep South Dining | Turnip Greens & Tortillas | Philadelphia Ham Jam

Mediterranean Diet | Mississippi Vegan | SFA’s Guide to Cocktails

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Bursting with Blueberries

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Strawberries and Champagne Cheesecake Sweet Tea Brined Pork Chops Brunswick Stew

Cheddar Green Onion Biscuits Mississippi Cathead Vodka Shrimp

15

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Shrimp and Grits

and where to find them

Places to chill with a sweet treat

Baked Brie en Croute

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April/May 2018

August/September 2018

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Romantic Dinner

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Mississippi’s Bicentennial | Backroads and Burgers | A Taste of Home Town

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Crunchy Grilled Snapper Burritos Classic Southern Tomato Pie Quickie Pie

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Gourmet Ice Pop Shops June/July 2017

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Christmas Breakfast Casserole

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Orange Slice Candy Cake

Mississippi Seafood Trail | Berry Picking | The Great Ruleville Roast

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Short Rib Crostini

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mschildrensmuseum.org • 601.981.5469 • Jackson, MS 68 • APRIL/MAY 2019

This project is partially funded through a grant by Visit Jackson.