Eat Drink Mississippi August/September 2019

10 Incredible Places to Wine & Dine | Mississippi Mead | Gluckstadt’s GermanFest

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MISSISSIPPI Grilled Kebabs

Local chefs win cooking competitions eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

SAVE THE DATE! PRESENTED BY THE JUNIOR LEAGUE OF JACKSON

NOVEMBER 6-9, 2019 For more information, please visit MISTLETOEMARKETPLACE.COM or call 601.948.2357

2 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

TICKETS ON SALE

SEPTEMBER 1,

2019

FOOD

MUSIC

DRINKS

Don’t Miss This Great Event

TUESDAY OCTOBER 1, 2019 6:00 pm - 9:00 pm Town of Livingston at the corner of Highway 463 and Highway 22 Tickets: $60.00 per person and may be purchased online at www.madcaap.org Musical Entertainment by Double Barrel. Food and beverages provided by over 25 local favorites and Our “Incredible” Silent Auction held in Livingston Chapel.

Grand Sponsors Diamond Sponsors Dianne Anderson

Gary Anderson Mike and Janie Jarvis Jim and Amy Streetman

Restaurants

Adults Only

21 Years and Over

No Pets, Please

Casual Attire

drink. MISSISSIPPI • 3 To learn more about how MadCAAP’s programs assist the poor visiteat. www.madcaap.org

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Satisfy Your Barbecue Cravings in The City With Soul Sometimes, there’s nothing better than a heaping plate of ribs covered in barbecue sauce or a pulled pork sandwich that’s so big you need three hands. If you’re in the mood for any kind of barbecue, there are several places in the Jackson area that will satisfy any pulled pork or barbecue chicken craving. Here are some of our favorite barbecue spots in the capital city.

HICKORY PIT A Jackson landmark, Hickory Pit is one of Jackson’s original barbecue joints in the area, located in Canton Mart Square. Hickory Pit looks like one of your typical barbecue places, with tables covered in red checkered tablecloths, tiled floors, touches of wood and tin, and a patio covered by a tin roof. Hickory Pit has been serving up the same food since before the 70s, and there’s a reason they’ve stuck around for so long. Start off with a slab of their perfectly-crispy ribs (half or full rack) with a side of coleslaw, baked beans, and Texas toast, all doused with their homemade barbecue sauce. Other plates include chopped barbecue pork or beef, barbecue chicken, and several sandwich options. Sandwiches include a sandwich platter where you can build your own with choices of smoked meat, hamburger, or turkey with a choice of two dies, barbecue chicken sandwich, chopped pork with slaw relish, smoked ham or turkey, a hamburger, or a poboy. If you’re ever in the mood for barbecue and want to try a Jackson classic, head to Canton Mart Square for what’s sure to become a new favorite spot.

PIG AND PINT A Fondren staple, Pig and Pint is serving up classics like pulled pork and ribs, along with other fun dishes like Disco Fries and Pork Rind Nachos. No matter what kind of barbecue you’re in the mood for, Pig and Pint has it. Their classic barbecue dishes include BBQ Pork, Chicken, and Brisket Sandwiches and ‘Que Plates where you can choose baby back ribs, brisket, pulled pork, or smoked half chicken and a choice of two sides. For something larger, opt for the Que Sampler 4 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

(three meats), the Pitmaster Sampler, or the Grand Champion Sampler for Two. Other dishes at Pig and Pint range anywhere from the Fried Green Tomato BLT to Pulled Pork Tacos and the BBQ Taco Sampler. There’s a reason Pig and Pint has been voted Best BBQ in Mississippi over the years, so head to the Fondren hotspot next time you’re in town.

E&L BARBEQUE For nearly 30 years, E&L has been serving up delicious ribs, tips, hot links, smoked chicken, and fried chicken wings.

If you’re looking for ribs, choose from a full slab that comes with two sides, a smaller rib plate, rib sandwich, rib tips, hot links, or a hot links sandwich. Each comes served with white bread to soak up all the delicious juices. Combination plates at E&L include the Combo Plate, your choice of two meats and two sides, the Rib Combo Plate, ribs and one other meat, or the Sampler Plate, your choice of three meats and two sides.

If sandwiches are more your style, choose from a Pulled Pork Sandwich, Pig Ear Sandwich, or Steak Sandwich, each served with your choice of toppings and fries.

Eat, drink and be soulful in Jackson. The City With Soul.

visitjackson.com

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CONTENTS August/September 2019 Volume 8 Number 5

38

47

53 in this issue 18 SKEWERED Three Kebab Recipes to Complete Your Summer Grilling Season

24 MISSISSIPPI MADE Stuart’s Dill Pickle Product

26 CHEF’S CORNER

in every issue 8 From the Publisher 10 From Our Readers 11 What’s Happening 12 Fabulous Foodie Finds 16 A Taste of Magnolia 55 Dining Guide 62 Events 64 Recipe/Ad Index 66 Till We Eat Again

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Chef John Stokes Is at Home in the Kitchen and Oxford

28 COMMUNITY From London to Ocean Springs, Chef Diane Cloughton Shares Her Love of Local Food with the Community

32 FRESH FROM THE FARM Organic Means Delicious, Affordable Produce at The Garden Farmacy

36 WINE & DINE

44 THE BEE’S KNEES Tupelo Is Abuzz Over Queen’s Reward Meadery

48 FROM MISSISSIPPI TO BEYOND Wally Joe Finds Contentment at ACRE

52 FROM THE BOOKSHELF Just Peachy Belinda Smith-Sullivan

54 REMEMBERING HOME Native Mississippians Celebrate Their Roots in Albany, N.Y.

56 WHERE TO EAT Hine’s Grocery & Steakhouse in Yazoo City

60 FEATURED FESTIVAL GermanFest in Gluckstadt

10 Incredible Places to Enjoy Fine Wine and a Great Meal ON THE COVER: Bourbon-Glazed Pork Skewers by Lisa LaFontaine Bynum, page 22

Save the Date

Missing an issue?

Back issues are available for order on our website!

Grilled Cheese Champions | The Magnolia Dietitian | Cleveland's Octoberfest

all about

Cooking under pressure

apples

Holiday Recipes | See & Eat Mississippi | St. Jude Taste of Oxford

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MISSISSIPPI

Crawfish Cravings

KING CAKE CREATIONS

June/July 2019

11

Cherry Bread

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October/November 2018

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9

Bacon and

Black Eyed STATE FAIR Pea Hummus inspired TREATSChristmas

Perfectly Patriotic Treats

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MISSISSIPPI eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

CRANBERRY

CRAZE

Oyster Shell Recycling

Back-to-School

weeknight dinners

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MISSISSIPPI

Oyster Farming | Bread & Butter Bistro | Mississippi Food & Wine Festival

VOLUME 8, NUMBER 3

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VOLUME 7, NUMBER 5

VOLUME 8, NUMBER 1

Natchez Food Tour | Clean Kitchen | Chefs of the Coast

VOLUME 8, NUMBER 4

VOLUME 7, NUMBER 6

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MISSISSIPPI

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MISSISSIPPI

7 Extreme Milkshakes | Community Farmers Market | Corinth’s Slugburger Festival

World's Best Hushpuppies | Instant Pot Recipes | Brandon Tablescapes

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MISSISSIPPI

Zwillingfest Celebration Returns October 10th & 11th with Special Events

and where to find them

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biedenharn coca-cola museum to commemorate 125th anniversary of first bottled coke

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Easy Pecan Sticky Buns

15

appetizers we love! and where to find them

Shrimp and Grits

4

15

PLACES TO RING IN THE NEW YEAR

crawfish dishes you will love

April/May 2019

August/September 2018

Smoked Sausage Hash

December/January 2019

Baked Brie en Croute

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MISSISSIPPI www.eatdrinkmississippi.com

From Our Farm to Your Table • 100% grass-fed beef and lamb • No added hormones • 100% all-natural, humane handling

VISIT OUR WEBSITE TO SHOP OUR SELECTION OF PASTURE-RAISED PRODUCTS

Take your lunch to work or school in a cool new way.

662-889-6628 2817 Douglass Rd. Macon, MS 39341 www.newgrassfarms.com

3720 Hardy Street, Suite 3 | Hattiesburg, MS | 601-261-2224 www.KitchenTableNow.com

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{ from the publisher }

Saying Goodbye to Grilling Season

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blast trying the different flavors and learning about how it’s made and came to be in Tupelo. Turn to page 45 to read more about it.

Don’t let the last days of summer fade without trying our unique variations on kebabs. These aren’t your typical meat and veggies on a stick. Think shrimp, cake, and...just turn to page 18 to see for yourself. I can’t think of a more fun and delicious way to complete the grilling season.

Finally, I’m sharing a couple of my favorite recipes for this time of year with you. The last tomatoes of summer are delicious in tomato pie and the turkey and rice recipe in the instant pot will give you more time to spend outdoors before the days begin to get shorter. Enjoy!

ith this issue, we’re on the downhill slide of summer. School is back in session for most students, the days of home-grown summer vegetables are nearly over, and it’ll soon be time to stow away the grill.

My family and I visited Oxford recently, so we day-tripped over to Tupelo to visit the somewhat new Queen’s Reward Meadery. I had never heard of mead until I was told of the meadery. As it turns out, it’s one of the oldest drinks in the world and is simply wine fermented from honey. We had a

J.J. Carney Publisher

Instant Pot Mediterranean Turkey and Rice 1 teaspoon olive oil 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 pound ground turkey 1 teaspoon steak seasoning 1 cup rice (I use Two Brooks Farm) 1-1/2 cups chicken broth 1/3 cup sun-dried tomatoes 1 cup frozen corn Salt and pepper, to taste Zest and juice of 1/2 lemon

Set Instant Pot to sauté setting. When hot, add olive oil and garlic. Sauté for 2 minutes. Add ground turkey and steak seasoning. Cook until turkey is nearly done, crumbling turkey as it cooks. Press cancel on Instant Pot. Add rice, broth, tomatoes, corn, salt, and pepper. Stir until well combined. Place lid on Instant Pot. Set on manual high pressure for 6 minutes. When done, perform a quick release of pressure. Remove lid and stir in lemon zest and juice.

Tomato Pie 1 (9-inch) pie crust, homemade or store-bought 3 medium tomatoes 1 cup mayonnaise (I only use Duke’s) 1/2 cup real bacon bits 1 cup shredded cheese of choice, divided 3 green onions, chopped 6-7 fresh, large basil leaves Salt and pepper, to taste Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Place the uncooked pie crust in glass pie pan, turn edges under, and crimp. Line the crust with aluminum foil and pie weights. Bake for 10

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minutes. Remove from oven and cool slightly. While crust is baking, slice tomatoes and removed excess liquid with paper towels. In a medium bowl, mix the mayonnaise, bacon bits, 1/2 cup cheese, and green onions. Stack basil leaves and roll up like a cigar. Slice crosswise to make thin strips. Cover bottom of crust with sliced tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle 1/2 of basil over top of tomatoes. Spread mayonnaise and cheese mixture over the tomatoes. Add remaining tomato slices. Season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with remaining basil. Top with remaining 1/2 cup cheese. Bake in oven until brown and bubbly, about 25-30 minutes.

“So I recommend having fun, because there is nothing better for people in this world than to eat, drink, and enjoy life. That way they will experience some happiness along with all the hard work God gives them under the sun.”

Ecclesiastes 8:15

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EAT DRINK MISSISSIPPI (USPS 17200) is published bi-monthly by Carney Publications LLC, 296 F.E. Sellers Hwy., Monticello, MS 39654-9555. Periodicals postage paid at Monticello, MS, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: For address changes, Electronic Service Requested.

8 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

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CLASSIC AMERICAN QUALITY.

Fried Simmons Catfish Fillets, Okra-Ham Purloo, Marinated Cucumbers, & Fish Sauce Aioli.

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Love this magazine. It has ideas and recipes that I grew up on.

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Subscribe online or make checks payable to: eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI P.O. Box 1663 Madison, MS 39130

{ what’s happening }

Genuine MS Launches Summer Series Podcast

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ast year, Commissioner of Agriculture Andy Gipson announced the launch of Genuine MS, the Mississippi Department of Agriculture and Commerce’s state branding program. Genuine MS was created to promote and bring attention to the incredible range of agricultural products that are grown, raised, crafted, and made in our state. This summer, Genuine MS launched a summer series podcast with episodes that highlight each of these products. Gipson hosts the podcast and speaks with business owners, farmers, producers, and other people whose products are Genuine MS. The podcast can be accessed on the Genuine MS website, Soundcloud, Stitcher, and iTunes. Episodes will be updated weekly throughout the summer.

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Chef Hunter Evans Advances to Great American Seafood Cook-off

he Mississippi Seafood Cook-off was recently held in Pass Christian, and six chefs from across the state went head to head to find out who is the king of seafood. This year, Hunter Evans from Lou’s Full Serv took home the crown and will advance to the Great American Seafood Cook-off in New Orleans to face chefs from all over the country for the title of Best Seafood Chef in America. Chef Evans’ winning dish consisted of baby squash crusted redfish stuffed with crab meat. The Great American Seafood Cookoff is set for Saturday, August 3rd, in New Orleans. Tickets can be purchased at the door.

Chef Hunter Evans

Chef Kristian Wade Wins at Atlanta F&W Fest

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Mississippi chef was recently crowned the winner of this year’s PNC “Best of the Fest” competition at the ninth annual Atlanta Food & Wine Festival. Chef Kristian Wade of Beau Rivage Resort and Casino stunned the crowd with his Landmass Burger complete with a smoky, grilled double-patty, American cheese, Mississippi tomato fondue, caramelized onions, bread and butter pickles, a blend of New Orleans barbecue sauce and Alabama white sauce, and topped with a fried oyster.

“The response to Beau Rivage and the Landmass Burger was overwhelming, and we look forward to featuring this awardwinning burger in our new TAP Sports Book, Bar & Bistreux when it opens in July,” Chef Kristian said.

In addition to winning the 2019 Best of the Fest title, Chef Kristian will also receive a Big Green Egg & Smoker. Beau Rivage Resort & Casino follows 2018 winner Poke Burri of Atlanta as Best of the Fest. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 11

{ fabulous foodie finds }

Publisher’s Picks A

s much as I love to eat out, I equally enjoy cooking at home. When I’m in the kitchen, there are certain items I can’t live without. I’m sharing them with you with the hope that your time in the kitchen will be a little more enjoyable and that cooking is much easier for you.

J.J. Carney

During the week, my family and I eat breakfast on the run. On weekends, I enjoy cooking a full breakfast. One of our favorites is from-scratch pancakes. A stainless steel pancake batter dispenser helps make them the exact size I want without making a mess. I purchased mine from Amazon, but most any kitchen store should have them.

I only use freshlyground pepper when cooking.

Trudeau’s Graviti Electric Pepper Mill makes grinding nearly effortless. You can find one at WilliamsSonoma.

Parchment paper is a must-have in any kitchen.

I grew tired of fighting with it on a roll and switched to these 12x16-inch sheets. My favorite way to cook bacon is in the oven. Baking it on these sheets makes cleanup a breeze. Amazon offers many options.

With the busyness of life these days, my Instant Pot has been a lifesaver for getting dinner on the table quickly. I use the 6-quart version for full-recipe main dishes and soups. I use the smaller 3-quart pot for rice, peas, beans, and smaller dishes. It’s the perfect size when you’re cooking for just two people.

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With Orrington Farms’ Chicken Broth Base & Seasoning, I always have broth on hand. It’s a powder that dissolves quickly and adds great flavor to recipes. Plus, it’s much more economical than the canned or boxed varieties.

If you think every rice is the same, you’re wrong. Open a bag of Two Brooks Farm’s rice and you will immediately smell a difference. Once you taste it, you’ll likely be like me and never use another brand. Visit www.twobrooksfarm.com to see where you can purchase a bag.

Many recipes call for a tablespoon or two of tomato paste, but I hate to open a can for such a small amount. With Amore’s tomato paste in a tube, I can dispense just the amount I need and easily store the rest for a later use.

McCormick’s Grill Mates Montreal Steak Seasoning isn’t just for steaks. I use it on a variety of meats. I purchase the big container at Sam’s Club so I always have plenty on hand.

If you want to start a heated debate in the South, just bring up the subject of mayonnaise. It’s one food item that most people have a loyalty to a specific brand. For me, it’s Duke’s. I simply can’t, or shall I say won’t, use another brand.

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www.bcbsms.com Blue Cross & Blue Shield of Mississippi, A Mutual Insurance Company, is an independent licensee of the Blue Cross and Blue Shield Association. ® Registered Marks of the Blue Cross and Blue Shield Association, an Association of Independent Blue Cross and Blue Shield Plans.

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Taco Tuesday Served Up Blues-Style uMaMI PLant Based tacos Flour tortillas smokey corn Purée (recipe follows) umami Mushrooms (recipe follows) Pickled red onions (recipe follows) Fried onions Pickled jalapeño Micro cilantro

“I am always challenging myself to stay apprised of food industry trends and use them to push the envelope of my creativity when planning our offerings,” says Labron Alexander, Executive Chef at Blue Cross & Blue Shield of Mississippi.

“One of the trends routinely highlighted is a plant-powered menu.”

Whole-foods, clean eating, and plant-based or plant-powered diets promote the eating of mostly vegetables, fruits, whole grains, legumes, seeds, nuts, and nut butters. Little to no refined grains, fast food, processed meat, desserts, or packaged foods are eaten with this approach.

“On any given day, we serve 3-4 vegetable options with our entrées and, on certain weeks, we feature our popular plant-powered selections,” says Alexander. “We have a diverse population and so many people are interested in incorporating a plant-based diet into their lifestyle due to intolerance, allergies, or preferences.”

To remain competitive, menus have to be unique, convenient, affordable, customizable, and offer lots of veggies to entice and hold the attention of all patrons, especially millennials.

Consumers are demanding organic foods and are interested in knowing where food is grown and sourced.

“Everyone loves tacos, but I wanted to take the ‘Taco Tuesday’ phenomenon to the next level,” says Alexander. “I aspired to create the healthiest possible version of a taco that would appeal to the most discerning palates.”

Chef Labron grilled portabella mushrooms, because it has the “mouth-feel” of meat, and increased the umami, or savory taste, of the mushrooms by using balsamic liquid aminos, olive oil, and Montreal steak seasoning as a marinade. A plethora of toppings such as pickled red onions, corn, smoked paprika, tabasco onions, jalapeños, and micro cilantro were used to heighten the experience.

“It worked. We sold out of our plant-powered tacos,” says Alexander. “Customization has been the key to our success.

Everyone wants to put their own spin on their meals at breakfast, lunch, and dinner. I am so pleased we’ve been able to meet the needs of our employees, and I look forward to introducing more trends like ‘root-to-stem’ in the coming months.”

Let Chef Labron’s portabella tacos recipe be the star of your next Taco Tuesday. For more recipes, visit www.bcbsms.com/ be-healthy.

heat flour tortillas and smear a thin layer of corn puree on the tortilla. top with grilled umami mushrooms, pickled red onions, fried onions, and pickled jalapeño. garnish with micro cilantro.

sMokey corn PurÉe 2 cups corn kernels 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt 1/4 teaspoon cracked black pepper 1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika 10 tablespoons water

Purée all ingredients and serve hot.

uMaMI MushrooMs 4 portabella mushroom caps, cleaned 4 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 2 tablespoons liquid aminos 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon Montreal steak seasoning

Whisk all ingredients together except mushrooms. Place mushrooms in a bowl and toss with sauce and allow to stand in room temperature for about 1 hour. grill mushrooms and reserve marinade for basting. slice into strips.

PIckLed red onIons

1/2 cup apple cider vinegar 1 cup water 1 tablespoon sugar 1-1/2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 red onion, thinly sliced

dissolve sugar and salt in the vinegar and water. Pour over onions.

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Taste of Magnolia a

Spring Into the School Year with a Simple App by divian conner

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DIVIAN CONNER is a Mississippi mama of four ‘not so little’ little ones. Coming up with recipes, trying new ones, and feeding her crew of tweens and teens is her passion. Southern recipes, easy recipes, sorta hard recipes, but always delicious recipes is what you will find on her food blog, www.divianlconner.com.

Now venturing into outdoor cooking over an open fire, Divian is fascinated with camp cooking and entertaining.

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nyone who knows me knows that I love fresh produce and ingredients.

Instead of your typical snacks, I keep of ton of fresh fruit and veggies available for my kids to encourage good, clean eating. Now, mind you, the little sweet cakes are always on deck, but the fruit and veggies will always be on display, whispering to the teens as they walk into the kitchen. I mean, how can you resist the temptation of a tray of apricots, peaches, and bananas beckoning to be eaten?

With the end of summer upon us, we parents are now thinking about after-school snack options. I know my teens burst through the door and head straight for the kitchen, leaving a trail of hoodies, backpacks, and books behind them. At first, I left them to their own vices—choose whatever you want, have at it, just clean up your mess.

But then I had an epiphany. I had a moment.

I thought...why not just have their snacks already ready? That would cut down the chaos that a kitchen can become when you have three teens rummaging through cabinets in a hunger frenzy. So, now I have a tray with a snack ready for them when they walk (stampede) through the door after a long, hard day at school, because school is equal to putting in a hard day’s work on a construction site in 100-degree weather if you let the kids describe it.

I use snack time as a way to get creative. Sometimes it’s mini strawberry shortcakes, sometimes it’s small sandwiches or calzones to hold them over until dinner is ready, and sometimes it’s spring rolls. My crew loves the spring rolls, and I love them because I can pull from items already sitting on the counter.

If I have a ton of fruit around, we go the sweet route with usually a chocolate dipping sauce to make it extra. If I have a ton of veggies, then we go the savory route.

I mean, there is literally no way you can mess up a spring roll ― says the woman who challenged her kids to try one stuffed with anchovies and kimchi, and they actually liked it. See...no way to mess it up. Unless kimchi and anchovies are not really your thing, then there may be a way to mess them up.

Can we talk about the diversity of these bad boys for a sec? Not only do they make delicious and healthy snacks for your kids (or yourself because, hey, grown-ups need snacks, too), but they make great appetizers for parties and can easily be turned into a main course at dinner. Serve with garlic noodles or rice, and there you go!

So as the school days end or the party planning season begins, remember three words: spring rolls, y’all. edm

Pineapple Teriyaki Chicken Spring Rolls with Dipping Sauce Makes 6-8 spring rolls 2 large boneless/skinless chicken breasts 1 teaspoon butter Creole seasoning, to taste 1/2 teaspoon sesame oil 1/4 cup soy sauce 2 tablespoons crushed pineapple 1/2-1 teaspoon chili flakes/red pepper flakes 1/2 teaspoon chopped garlic 1/4 tablespoon grated ginger Spring roll wrappers Sliced sweet peppers Enoki mushrooms Romaine lettuce Pineapple slices Pineapple Teriyaki Dipping Sauce (recipe follows) Slice clean chicken breasts into 1/2- to 1-inch wide strips. In skillet over medium-high heat, melt butter and add in sliced chicken breasts. Season to taste with Creole seasoning and drizzle with sesame oil and soy sauce. Add in pineapple, chili/red pepper flakes, garlic, and ginger.

Cook until chicken is done. Remove from heat.

On clean surface, lay a spring roll wrapper flat. Lightly sprinkle water on wrapper and smooth out so that

the wrapper becomes pliable. Place chicken, peppers, mushrooms, lettuce, and pineapple towards the bottom of the circle wrapper, leaving about an inch of wrapper. Take bottom uncovered wrapper and bring over the ingredients, tucking to create a tight roll. Begin rolling, tucking the corners in as you roll.

Serve with Pineapple Teriyaki Dipping Sauce.

Note: To get design to show at the top, layer slices at the top of the wrapper, above the chicken, about an inch from top, that way the last roll will be the slices on top.

Pineapple Teriyaki Dipping Sauce 2 tablespoons cornstarch 1 cup water, divided 1/2 cup pineapple juice 1 tablespoon honey 1/2 teaspoon grated ginger 1/4 cup soy sauce 2 tablespoons brown sugar Mix cornstarch with 1/2 cup of water and place aside.

Mix remaining water with all other ingredients in pan over medium-low heat and stir until sugar is dissolved. Add in cornstarch mixture to make sauce thicker. Remove from heat and allow to cool before serving. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 17

Three Kebab Recipes to Complete Your Summer Grilling Season

18 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

By Lisa LaFontaine Bynum

S

ummer isn’t complete until you’ve fired up the grill to cook dinner over an open flame. Hot dogs and hamburgers are so predictable. So, add some flair to your backyard bash with these unique, mouth-watering kebabs.

Bourbon-Glazed Pork Skewers eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 19

Shrimp Boil Kebabs

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Grilled Peach Dessert Skewers

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Bourbon-Glazed Pork Skewers Serves 4 1 cup orange juice 1-1/2 cups packed brown sugar 2 teaspoons mustard 1/2 cup bourbon 2 teaspoons salt, divided 2 tablespoons cornstarch 1 pound pork loin, trimmed of fat 2 green bell peppers 2 red bell peppers 1 purple onion 8 ounces sliced white mushrooms 1 tablespoon olive oil Combine orange juice, brown sugar, mustard, bourbon, and one teaspoon of salt in a medium saucepan. Whisk in

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cornstarch until smooth. Bring to a boil and cook until glaze has thickened, about 1-2 minutes. Set glaze aside to cool slightly.

Cut the pork loin into 1-inch pieces. Toss the pork loin in half the glaze until coated. Set the other half of the glaze aside for basting.

Slice the peppers into sections large enough to skewer.

Quarter, then half the purple onion.

Toss the peppers, onion, and mushrooms with the olive oil and the remaining teaspoon of salt.

Thread the meat and vegetables onto the skewers – alternating the meat with the vegetables.

Preheat a grill to medium-high heat or preheat the broiler. Grill or broil for seven minutes. Turn the kebabs over and baste with the reserved marinade. Grill or broil for an additional seven minutes.

Shrimp Boil Kebabs Serves 4 2 tablespoons, plus 1 teaspoon liquid shrimp boil, divided 5 tablespoons, plus 1 teaspoon salt 6 small red potatoes, cut into quarters 4 ears sweet corn, cut into 1-1/2-inch sections 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 teaspoon salt 1 pound medium shrimp, heads off 1 pound smoked sausage 8 metal skewers Fill a large stock pot with 2 1/2 quarts (10 cups) of water. Add two tablespoons of the shrimp boil and 5 tablespoons of salt. Bring the water to a boil.

Add the red potatoes and cook for five minutes.

Add the corn to the pot and cook for an additional five minutes. For more spice, let the potatoes and corn soak in the water. The longer they soak, the spicier they will be. For less spicy kabobs, drain the potatoes and corn immediately.

In a small saucepan over low heat, melt the butter with the remaining teaspoon of salt and remaining teaspoon of shrimp boil. Toss the shrimp in the butter mixture to coat.

Alternate the corn, shrimp, sausage and potatoes onto metal skewers.

Preheat a grill to medium high heat. Grill the kabobs for 2-3 minutes on each side until the vegetables are heated through and the shrimp is opaque.

Alternately, kabobs can be baked in the oven at 350 degrees F for 10 minutes.

Grilled Peach Dessert Skewers Serves 4 1 stick unsalted butter 1/4 cup brown sugar 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 angel food cake, cut in half 4 large ripe peaches, cut into quarters Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the brown sugar and cinnamon until the sugar is dissolved.

Slice one half of the angel food cake into 1-inch pieces. Save the remaining half of the cake for another use.

Alternate the peaches and the cake on two parallel skewers. Leave a little space between the skewers as this will make the kebabs easier to flip. Brush the brown sugar mixture over the tops and sides of the cake and fruit.

Preheat a grill to medium heat. Grill the kebabs for 2-3 minutes on each side, until the peaches are tender and the cake is toasted.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 23

{ mississippi made }

Stuart's Cajun Pickled Products Are the Real 'Dill" by susan marquez

J

ames Stuart only thought he was in a pickle when his wife brought home the wrong pickling spices. Since that’s what he had on hand, Stuart used the spices and was surprised to find that the “mistake spices” made a better, more crispy pickle. Knowing he was on to something, he tried the same spices with okra and green beans. And that’s how Stuart’s Cajun Dill Pickles, Stuart’s Cajun Dilled Okra, and Stuart’s Cajun Dill Green Beans came to be in 2005. Now, the delicious pickled products are sold across the South from Baton Rouge to Destin.

Stuart comes to the pickle game honestly. “I’ve always grown a garden. I just have a green thumb. When I was a kid, my grandmother grew more than she needed in her garden, so much so she either let it rot in the fridge or she gave it away. I was in the same boat with too many cucumbers when my ex-

wife’s friend taught me how to make pickles.”

Stuart took his pickled okra to his deer camp where they were voted “best pickled okra” by his buddies. A bartender at the Isle of Capri at the time, Stuart took his okra to work.

“I was making seven pints of pickled okra at the time, and I sold them from the break room at work. I made a deal with management that I’d donate 50 cents for each jar sold to the Sunshine Fund. People at work liked them but said to make them hotter.” He started putting a slice of habanero pepper in each jar, but the longer they sat on the shelf, the hotter they got. “It was too hot, so I stopped putting in the habanero.”

Stuart says his co-workers nicknamed him “Pickles.” He even has PICKLES on his license plate.

Stuart started selling his pickled products at the farmers market in Ocean Springs. From there, he began driving,

James Stuart 24 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

stopping at roadside stands, markets, gift shops, or anywhere else he thought people might want to buy his pickles. His children, who are now grown, would help with the process. He started out with six cases in his car and stopped at fruit stands north of Hattiesburg on Highway 49. “I sold one case at my first stop, another case at my second stop, and so on.” It wasn’t long before the Mississippi State Department of Health came calling, telling Stuart he had to have the correct labeling. “I decided if I was going to do this, I was going to do it right.”

He built a pickle kitchen in his backyard in Gautier, and he had his pickles pH tested by the lab at Mississippi State University’s food science department. His daughter, who is now 15, is an artist and designed the label. “It’s the Stuart family crest, and she added a Mardi Gras mask and an alligator.” The pickles used to be called Stuart’s Hot Pickles, but folks at farmers markets would say they couldn’t eat hot stuff. So he changed it to Stuart’s Cajun Pickles. It’s the same recipe he uses to makes pickles three days a week. “My wife is Norwegian and she loves them, so they’re not too hot.”

Stuart is on the road two days a week selling pickles. “I don’t take phone orders. It’s too easy for people to say no on the phone. I don’t do online orders either. I go see my customers in person, and I have pickles with me when I go. They almost always buy more.” He takes the weekends off to spend time with his family, although the family is very much involved in the pickle operation. Stuart figures they makes 3,000 to 5,000 jars of pickles a year.

The pickles have been picked up by several restaurants, including Hemingway’s Island Grill in Pensacola and The Shed in Ocean Springs. “They were my first customer.” They are also sold in Rouse’s and Winn-Dixie supermarkets. He’s also in places such as Central Grocery in New Orleans and Flora Butcher in Flora. “In New Orleans, they buy a lot of the beans for Bloody Marys, I suppose. In the Jackson area, we don’t sell as many beans. I guess they don’t drink as many Bloody Marys up there.” In addition to pickles, okra, and beans, Stuart also has a mix of all three that he says is very popular.

There’s no website for Stuart’s Pickles. They can be purchased on Amazon, however. “Funny story. Someone told me they saw my pickles on Amazon,” laughs Stuart. “Sure enough, someone is selling them there, but they’re not buying them from me. That means they are buying them retail and re-selling them on Amazon.” That’s free enterprise at its best. edm Stuart’s Cajun Dill Product www.facebook.com/stuartspickles eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 25

{ chef's corner }

Chef John Stokes Is at Home in the Kitchen and Oxford story by paige mckay

26 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

Sarah Odom Photography

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orn and raised in Oxford, Chef John Stokes of Tarasque Cucina started washing dishes when he was 16 years old to help fund his fishing and biking hobbies. Hooked on kitchen work from day one, Chef Stokes continued to work in the industry and worked in several different styles of restaurants while he was in the engineering program at Ole Miss.

“Ultimately, I left the pursuit of a professional degree to train in the craft of cooking,” Chef Stokes said. “My grandfather advised me that if I were to leave engineering school, then I had better take the study of the trade and business of cooking just as seriously as a collegiate education.”

That was 22 years ago, and Chef Stokes says he is still devoted to practicing cooking and the restaurant business with a focused intent. Over the course of his career, Chef Stokes has been able to work with “a handful of very passionate folks” who helped mold him into the chef he is today.

“Through them, I learned that the trade was equal parts unbound creativity, rote product, and manual labor,” he said. “I was hooked from my first day scrubbing dishes at a makeshift sink.”

Now, Chef Stokes, along with his wife, Lauren, has his own restaurant, Tarasque Cucina, in his hometown of Oxford. “‘Tarasque Cucina’ is what is commonly referred to as ‘red sauce’ in New England,” Chef Stokes explained.

Tarasque Cucina is a mom-and-pop takeout and delivery place that specializes in Italian pastas, breads, and salads with simple and local-based small plates available, too. Tarasque Cucina also offers 12 to 16-course chef tastings by reservation only, and the restaurant gets to showcase its talents along the hill country’s abundant produce and other natural offerings.

Signature dishes at Tarasque Cucina include things like Boiled Peanuts tossed in olive oil and Pecorino Romano, Turnips in Buttermilk, Honeysuckle Frybread, Linguine with Shrimp in Cream, Pappardelle Bolognese, and Sourdough Ciabatta bread.

Though Chef Stokes enjoys the cooking aspect of having his own restaurant, he recognizes that every other aspect of owning a restaurant is just as important as the food, and he enjoys all of it.

“I truly love having all my faculties tested,” he said. “On any given day, I might process payroll, do sales forecast for inventory management, teach a 17-year-old how to chop parsley and how important it is to do it quickly and properly, or just make a really good meatball.”

Along with having his restaurant, Chef Stokes also enjoys taking his kayak out to the national forest and poking around the lakes with his flyrod. When he and Lauren are cooking at home, he says they enjoy cooking simple meals and entertaining their neighbors.

Lauren and John Stokes Being that Chef Stokes works in a restaurant for a living, he has a long list of places he’d like to visit to eat one day. Places like Katz’s Deli, Handy Andy, Meers Burgers, Taylor Catfish, Casa Botin, and Pizza Den are all on his list, and he notes that there’s a singular thread through all of them: “simple, perfect food in a nononsense setting with a staff dedicated to making sure the food is what makes you happy.”

That’s the goal of Chef John at Tarasque Cucina, and he and Lauren are dedicated to making sure of that and catering to the needs of each of their customers.

“Mississippi is the hospitality state, and I am absolutely blessed to be doing what I love and spreading that word in my hometown,” Chef Stokes said. edm

Fig Salad A simple tossed salad of soft herbs, sorghum, gorgonzola, and fig is the best way to highlight the earthy, funky, sweetness of a freshly-picked fig.

1 tablespoon flat leaf parsley, chopped 2 teaspoons fresh tarragon, chopped 12 figs, cut in half 1/2 cup crumbled gorgonzola cheese 1 teaspoon sorghum Toss all ingredients together in a bowl. Serve immediately.

Fig Salad photo by John and Lauren Stokes

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 27

28 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

{ community }

From London to Ocean Springs,

Chef Diane Cloughton Shares Her Love of Local Food with the Community story and photography by julian brunt

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hef Diane Claughton started her professional life as a librarian in Yorkshire, England. The quiet life in an English library wasn’t the way she wanted to spend her life, so she transitioned to washing dishes in a French restaurant in London. It doesn’t seem like an important step up the ladder, but this restaurant was doing things differently. It had a pre fixe menu, a set menu at a set price, but the menu changed daily according to the availability of local ingredients. It was a pivotal event in her life, not only learning about local produce and ingredients, but she also moved up in the restaurant to Chef de Partie, appetizers, and then to sous chef, working directly under the owner. Under any circumstances, it was an admirable progression, but when the restaurant was awarded a Michelin star, it became a remarkable accomplishment indeed.

Fresh baked cookies and pastries

Chef Diane Claughton walks the Ocean Springs Farmers Market. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 29

Made-to-order egg rolls Cloughton married a brash American and continued working in the restaurant industry. She moved to New Orleans and, after various positions, became the executive chef at the Holiday Inn in Covington. The many years in the industry began to wear on her, and she finally moved to Ocean Springs.

One morning she woke up and thought “What this town needs is a farmers market.” That was the beginning of an endeavor that has lasted 15 years and enriched not only the community of Ocean Springs, but Gulfport, Lyman, Long Beach, and Florence Gardens as well.

Cloughton insists that the success of the markets is based on the individual success of the vendors she works with. It has become a weekly community event where friends gather and people meet to exchange ideas and recipes. The Ocean Springs Fresh Market, held on Saturday morning and the second Sunday of each month, is the largest market of the six that Cloughton oversees and has 20-30 vendors. The number of vendors depends on the season and availability of produce, but there is a lot more to the markets than seasonal vegetables.

You’ll find USDA certified grass feed beef from Stonington Farms, USDA certified vegetables and herbs from P&J Farm (one of only two USDA certified farms in the state), locallyraised mushrooms, jams and jellies, farm-fresh eggs, locallymade beef jerky, freshly-baked bread, flowers, bird houses, fresh seafood, blueberries, milk, cream, and butter from Country Girls Creamery, and lots more.

Cloughton said people are beginning to realize that if they want freshly-picked, locally-grown and super-healthy produce, 30 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

Local seafood and seafood dishes for sale

Locally-made jams and jellies a local farmers market is the place to go. Store-bought produce is picked green to extend shelf life and misses those important last days in the sunlight to ripen naturally. The produce you buy at the market was most likely picked the night before or early that morning.

Besides being a source of local and healthy food, the markets provide a venue where you can talk to the person who raised or made the produce they are selling, support the local economy and small family businesses, and keep your dollars circulating in the community where you live.

In the 15 years the Fresh Market has been around, it has closed only twice.

On a good day, 500 people walk through, buying healthy food and talking to farmers and growers, learning the secrets of a good, vine-ripe tomato, or how to make delicious grits made from Mississippi corn and ground just a few days before. It’s a great way to spend a Saturday morning to meet your neighbors and find nutritious and delicious foods for your family. edm

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32 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

{ fresh from the farm }

Organic Means Delicious, Affordable Produce at

The Garden Farmacy story and photography by paige mckay

T

he term “organic” sometimes has a negative connotation attached to it, especially when it comes to fruits, vegetables, and produce. Hinds County organic farmers Taylor Yowell and Marbury Jacobs are seeking to change that way of thinking by providing the surrounding areas with delicious, affordable produce from their farm, The Garden Farmacy.

The Garden Farmacy got its start in 2015 when Yowell rented a couple acres of land at the Town of Livingston to start his farming endeavors. In 2016, he purchased the six acres of land in Bolton that now houses rows and rows of tomatoes, peppers, squash, apple trees, herbs, flowers, and many other vegetables and fruits. A farmer of nearly 10 years, Yowell and his girlfriend, Marbury, took the initiative to learn more about organic farming and how they could bring it back to their Hinds County farm.

“We have a passion for eating healthy and trying to maintain healthy lifestyles,” Yowell said. “Being organic farmers complements that lifestyle, so we decided to figure out how to pursue it as a career.”

Yowell and Jacobs both gained experience by participating in year-long apprenticeships on organic farms all across the country in states like California, Massachusetts, New York, and Virginia before ultimately bringing their knowledge and skills back to Mississippi, where Yowell is originally from.

“Being from Mississippi, I wanted to bring my experiences back to Hinds County,” Yowell said.

That’s exactly what Yowell did, and he has hit the ground running ever since.

The six acres of land that The Garden Farmacy sits on is abundant with any vegetable imaginable. Being that it is eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 33

Marbury Jacobs and Taylor Yowell an organic farm, the practices that Yowell and Jacobs use are slightly different than modern-day practices.

“We use mostly hand tools, we don’t have a tractor, and it’s pretty low input,” Yowell said. “The only thing that burns gas is the tiller we use.”

Yowell and Jacobs also only use natural irrigation, so they have to dig the soil deeper so that when it rains, it’s sinking more into the ground to create a natural irrigation effect.

“It’s the practice and the style that makes it organic,” Yowell said. “It’s basic, simple stuff. It’s retro, but also modern and progressive being that we can accomplish this without all the extra equipment.”

“We want to work with the environment, not against it,” Jacobs added.

Most of the produces from The Garden Farmacy goes into their 90 CSA (community-supported agriculture) subscription boxes each week, which is their main focus. Though it’s demanding trying to accommodate 90 people each week, Yowell and Jacobs get it done with ease.

34 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

“We’ve got our timing down,” Yowell said.

“And we know how to be diligent and careful with out time,” Jacobs said.

Each week, CSA box recipients can expect anywhere from six to eight different items from the farm, and pick-up locations can be found in Yazoo City, Madison, Ridgeland, and Jackson.

One recent box included things like tomatoes, peppers, garlic, cucumbers, squash, an herbal tea, a bouquet of cut flowers, and garlic, all straight from the ground at The Garden Farmacy.

“We’re focusing on diversity with the CSA boxes by giving different things like vegetables, flowers, teas,” Yowell said. “Our one little farm can provide so many items, and I think that kind of gives us a cutting edge in agriculture.”

Yowell and Jacobs recently planted several fruit trees like apple, fig, mulberry, persimmon, and jujube trees and hope to have a variety of fruits in each CSA box by 2020, along with more herbs.

Another thing that Yowell and Jacobs are working on is their idea of “farm-to-healthcare.” The two are aiming to get their veggies into places that need them most, like a doctor’s office and other different clinics.

“We’ve all heard of farm-to-table, and we want to start pushing farm-to-healthcare,” Yowell said. “We want to put more of an emphasis on healthy vegetables and drop them off to a clinic where the people need them, rather than a restaurant.”

The farm-to-healthcare initiative is still in the developing stages, but Yowell and Jacobs are aiming to have a firm grip on it by 2020.

For now, Yowell and Jacobs are placing most of their focus on their 90-member CSA, but the goal is to make The Garden Farmacy a “full-fledged forest,” Yowell said.

“It takes patience,” Yowell said. “But that’s the goal.” edm The Garden Farmacy www.thegardenfarmacy.online eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 35

Wine&Dine

W

hether it’s with lunch or dinner, nothing beats a glass of wine with a delicious meal at your favorite restaurant. Several restaurants throughout our state boast robust wine lists, some even earned a spot on Wine Spectator’s 2019 Restaurant Awards list. If you’re looking for great wine lists and even better food, check out these fine restaurants around the state. edm

by paige mckay

Purple Parrot - Hattiesburg Since 1987, Purple Parrot has been serving fresh gulf seafood and certified angus beef steaks alongside their award-winning wine list, handcrafted cocktails, and the largest selections of bourbons, ryes, and whiskeys in the state. The Hattiesburg restaurant takes pride in their wine list and delicious seafood dishes. During lunch time, opt for a Seared Tuna Salad for a light, delicious meal to go with a glass of wine. If you’re visiting during dinner, a bottle of red wine would pair perfectly with a Waygu Flat Iron Steak. No matter what you choose to devour, there’s sure to be a wine to go with it at the Purple Parrot.

Purple Parrot’s Waygu Flat Iron Steak

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eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 37

CAET’s Cauliflower Saganaki

CAET - Ridgeland After a recent move from downtown Jackson to Renaissance in Ridgeland, CAET Seafood Oysterette features a menu ideal for an upscale yet casual seafood and oyster bar dining experience, along with a full bar and a robust wine list for guests to choose from. Wine Spectator recently recognized CAET in their 2019 Restaurant Awards, so diners are sure to find a wine they love, whether it’s by the glass, half bottle, or bottle. If you stop in CAET during lunchtime, sip on a glass of wine alongside a meal of Cauliflower Saganaki that’s made completed with seared feta cheese, olive oil, confit cherry tomatoes, and a medley of delicious herbs.

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Bravo Italian Restaurant - Jackson Along with CAET, Bravo Italian Restaurant also appeared on this year’s Wine Spectator 2019 Restaurant Awards, so if you’re looking for a glass

or two of wine to enjoy with dinner or just want to sip on wine during their Social Hour, look no further than Bravo in Highland Village in Jackson. Wines at Bravo are available by the glass, bottle, and half bottle and range from red, white, sparkling/ champagne, and rosé, so every palate will find something they enjoy. Under each wine by the glass option is a description of each wine’s flavor profile so you know exactly what you’re ordering and what to expect. Along with your wine, enjoy a heaping serving of Bravo’s Linguine and Meatballs, a best-seller for 25 years now.

Bravo founders Dan Blumenthal and Jeff Good (far left) stand outside the restaurant with their team.

Bravo’s Linguine and Meatballs

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 39

The Wilbur -Ocean Springs Located in The Roost Boutique Hotel in Ocean Springs, The Wilbur Craft Bar offers delicious bites, craft cocktails, and, of course, a great selection of wine. Sip on wines from Oregon and Napa Valley, as well as France, Australia, South Africa, and Argentina. The vast selection of reds and whites from all over the world is sure to please every person and every palate. Guests can also munch on small plates and dishes like Baked Brie, Pimento Cheese Burger, Salmon BLT, and Spicy Crab Bites – hand-picked local crab with red peppers, jalapenos, and Monterey jack cheese. The Wilbur offers delicious drinks and food daily, and you can even enjoy half prices glasses of wine every weekday till 6 p.m. as a part of their happy hour.

The Wilbur’s Spicy Crab Bites

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Restaurant Tyler - Starkville On the corner of Main Street and North Washington Street in Starkville sits Restaurant Tyler, a favorite amongst locals, visitors, and college students alike. Chef Ty Thames is a supporter of the “eat local” movement and uses only the freshest and most local ingredients for his dishes. Though Thames’ dishes are what bring in the crowds for brunch, lunch, and dinner, Restaurant Tyler also boasts a wine list so outstanding that Wine Spectator awarded Restaurant Tyler with an Award of Excellence in this year’s 2019

Restaurant Awards. Whether it’s a glass of wine at lunch or a bottle to share at dinner in the intimate restaurant, wine lovers are sure to find a favorite wine at Restaurant Tyler.

Estelle Wine Bar and Bistro - Jackson Estelle Wine Bar and Bistro, located in the Westin Hotel in downtown Jackson, offers a modern wine bar experience where guests can sip on

a creative craft cocktail or choose a wine from the curated wine list, carefully designed to be accessible with every palate in mind. Estelle also serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, with lunch and dinner including small plates, wood-fired artisanal pizzas, and large plates. Inspired by the summer season, Estelle’s pan-seared snapper is featured with a veggie cous cous to make a delicious and satisfying dinner dish. The housemade Green Tomato Salsa is paired with Estelle’s heavily seasoned Ravigote Vinaigrette and freshly garnished with Gremolata. To make this dinner perfect, Estelle’s recommends a bottle of Sonoma Cutrer Chardonnay.

Photo by Ashleigh Coleman

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 41

Regina’s Kitchen - Natchez Known for its cooking classes, rind and wine bar, and épicerie, Regina’s Kitchen in Natchez offers a robust wine list in the cozy cheese and wine bar that’s located in the back of Regina’s Kitchen. This hidden treasure offers a full bar and wine list along with a menu of delicious bites that are perfect for sharing or a full meal. Regina’s Kitchen is also known for daily Southern cooking classes, biscuit making classes, and weekend brunch classes.

The wine bar at Regina’s is open Tuesday through Saturday from 4 to 10 p.m. and is a must-visit during a trip to Natchez whether it’s for a biscuit class or a glass or two of wine.

Bar Fontaine - Cleveland Located in the new Cotton House Hotel in Southern dish with rice middlins, stewed field downtown Cleveland, James Beard Awardpeas, preserved lemon, and Aleppo pepper. Of nominated chef Cole Ellis brings his nationally course, Bar Fontaine also offers a robust list of wine acclaimed culinary prowess to Bar Fontaine, choices that are available by the glass or bottle an upscale European restaurant and bar. Bar that guests can enjoy in the new and unique Fontaine offers modern, European-inspired establishment. small plates using locally sourced ingredients. One of Chef Ellis’ dishes Bar Fontaine’s Rise e Bisi includes Rise e Bisi, an upscale

42 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

Sea Grapes Wine Café - Gulfport Gulfport’s Sea Grapes Wine Café offers over 40 unique estate wines by the demi glass, glass, and bottle, and each wine is ready to be paired with their selection of small plates from the kitchen.

Each wine on their menu includes tasting notes, so when trying a new wine, guests know exactly what flavors to expect. Pair your wine with plates like

Tomato Bruschetta, Smoked Salmon Spread, Fruit and Cheese Board, or Antipasto Skewers. Pizzas are also available to pair and share. Sea Grapes also offers craft beers and specialty cocktails, making it the perfect spot for friends to gather to enjoy drinks and a bite to eat after a long day at work or for a fun weekend evening.

Giardina’s - Greenwood A Greenwood staple, Giardina’s, located in The Alluvian Hotel, is one of the Delta’s most historic restaurants and has been serving the community since 1936. A blend of sophistication and warmth, Giardina’s is the perfect setting for any meal or event. Along with steaks, Italian cuisine, and seafood, Giardina’s also offers premium wines, liquors, and liqueurs. With plenty of wines to choose from, everyone is sure to find their perfect glass to go with their tasty dinner at Giardina’s.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 43

Jeri Carter

44 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

The Bee's Knees   Tupelo Is Abuzz Over Queen's Reward Meadery story and photography by paige mckay

T

hough it is the oldest alcoholic beverage in the world, mead seems to just now be making its way into more mainstream markets and is garnering more and more attention. With celebrities like Dylan Sprouse dabbling into the world of mead, the honey-based drink is finally getting the recognition that some believe it deserves.

For Tupelo native Jeri Carter, creating the perfect mead started about six years ago when she and her husband, Geoff, bought an at-home wine making kit for fun. It came with all the needed equipment, juices, yeast, and instructions.

“We made a batch, and it was pretty good,” Carter said.

“We made about three or four batches, and we thought we were getting good at this, so we decided we’d try to make a batch without the kit to see if we could do it.”

The problem with that was that Mississippi isn’t known for having great wine grapes. So, Carter started researching other ways to make wine.

“I’m looking online and see a recipe to make wine with honey, and I’m like ‘okay, I can do that,’” Carter said. “I didn’t even realize we were making mead until I researched more and

figured out that’s what it was.”

Carter’s first batch of mead took about six weeks to ferment and get to the final product.

“We thought it was good, but we didn’t know what it was really supposed to taste like,” Carter said.

So, she and her husband set off to the local liquor store to buy a bottle of commercial mead to compare their homemade product, but they soon learned that mead was not sold in Mississippi at the time. It was at that moment that Carter thought, “we should make our own mead.”

“We kept playing with recipes and would give it to friends and family,” Carter said.

After that, Carter decided it was time to put her mead to the test and let the public taste it, so she and Geoff packed their homemade mead and attended the first ever American Mead Makers Association Conference.

“We tried several meads from all across the country,” Carter said. “I told my husband that I thought we were on the right track, but it’s hard to be objective, so after that, we decided to send some of our meads to a national competition in New

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 45

Hampshire.”

Carter intended on sending the meads to New Hampshire just to get feedback and tips on how to improve her product, but two of her mead flavors ended up winning two awards – second place for her Traditional Dry mead and third place for the Scarlet Noir.

“That’s when we decided that we should really do this,” Carter said.

Fast forward to May 25, 2018, Carter opened the doors to Queen’s Reward Meadery, Mississippi’s first and only meadery.

Each flavor of mead is made with honey that comes from within the state of Mississippi, which was a huge, conscious decision on Carter’s part.

“We decided to use only Mississippi-grown honey because we want to show off what the South has to offer in our corner of the world,” she said. “We have so much beauty that we want to showcase.”

Each batch of Queen’s Reward mead is made with honey that comes directly from a honey house in Yazoo City in a 55-gallon drum, so it is true Mississippi honey.

“We got in a barrel one time that had ‘Ag Museum’ written on it, so that honey came from the wildflower field behind the museum,” Carter said. “So, it’s like you’re getting a sip of your own backyard when you take a sip of our mead.”

Once the honey arrives to the Tupelo meadery, the fermentation process begins. Mead is made of honey and water that has been fermented, and the mead maker chooses how dry or sweet it can be. The sugar is fermented out, and the yeast turns the sugar to alcohol with hints of honey throughout. Once it’s turned into mead, it’s then filtered and bottled right in the

46 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

same building as the tasting room. The finished product can be a traditional mead, which is just honey and water, or other flavors can be added to create all kinds of variations, just like wine.

Queen’s Reward has two traditional flavors made with only honey and water, Traditional Dry and Traditional Sweet. The sweet variation is sweeter than traditional wines with distinct honey flavors and aromas, and it makes for a great dessert wine.

The dry variation is less sweet for those who tend to stray away from sweet drinks. Other flavors include Delta Gold and Delta Dry, which are Riesling, Scarlett Noir, a red, and several seasonal flavors like Blackberry and Pucker Up for the spring and summer months and Rubee and Winter Spice for the winter.

To make the other flavors of meads, Carter has different fruit juices shipped in, and those juices go in the tank with the honey so that they can ferment together to make one harmonious flavor. Pucker Up is made with natural lemon flavors, the Rubee mead combines cranberry and orange flavors, and, of course, the Blackberry mead balances the tartness of blackberries with Mississippi honey for a fruity mead. The Winter Spice mead, though it has winter in the name, has become one of the most poplar flavors throughout the entire year. The semi-sweet mead is enhanced with cinnamon, clove, and a nutmeg, and Carter’s intentions were to serve it warm during the winter months.

“I thought when it warmed up, we’d put it away,” she said.

“But we are selling the heck out of it chilled, and that really shows its versatility.”

Queen’s Reward has been open just over a year now, and Carter said that though it was intimidating opening a new business, the response has been amazing. The honeycombthemed meadery is the perfect spot for date night, an afternoon

drink, or just an evening with friends. The first Thursday of every month is game night, and trivia night is held on the third Thursday each month, giving the community a fun, week-night event to attend each month.

Being that Queen’s Reward is a tasting room, not a bar, guests do not have to be 21 to come in and hang out. Non-alcoholic beverages are available for them, including Tupelo-made 3 Sip Soda. Guests that wish to sip on mead can opt for it by the glass, or they can do a tasting or four or five different flavors, including a mead slushy. Carter also tries to keep locally made popsicles, Popsy, on hand, and guests can dunk their popsicle in their glass of mead for a cool and delicious concoction.

Carter also encourages guests to bring in their own food, or they can even order take out from the local delivery service.

On Fridays and Saturdays, local food trucks set up shop outside Queen’s Reward to feed any hungry patrons.

Thought the mead world is small, it is mighty. It’s the fastest growing craft beverage industry in the country right now, and more meaderies are opening. Carter keeps herself on track by constantly sending her meads off to contests and competitions to ensure that what she’s making is a quality product. So far, that’s been the case.

“Our goal is to make a product that’s comparable to anything you’d buy commercially,” she said. “We want to set the standard, and we want people to keep up with us.”

To get your hands on a bottle of Queen’s Reward mead, head to north Mississippi and visit the meadery or visit Harvey’s in Tupelo for lunch or dinner and order a glass. Several liquor stores throughout the state carry Queen’s Reward mead, too, but if your local store doesn’t, they can order it for you. Bottles are available for purchase online, but only 40 states allow alcohol to be sent via mail.

Next time a road trip includes heading north, make a detour to Tupelo to check out everything the city has to offer, especially Queen’s Reward. You quite literally can’t find anything else like it in Mississippi. edm Queen’s Reward Meadery 1719 McCullough Blvd., Tupelo 662.823.6323 www.queensreward.com

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 47

{ from mississippi to beyond }

Wally Joe Finds Contentment at ACRE

By Kathy K. Martin

W

ith his long history of culinary accomplishments, Wally Joe now says that he is content right where he is. The chef and sole owner of ACRE restaurant in Memphis isn’t looking for another cooking TV show to host (he was named one of four host chefs of Turner South’s Off The Menu in 2003) or even a chance to open more restaurants.

“I’m content with where I am. When I was younger, I made a name for myself,” the Cleveland native says. “I just want to keep ACRE successful and leave the rest to the younger guys now.”

Joe has lived up to his reputation with many awards and accolades for his cuisine.

He’s been featured in many national food magazines and was invited to cook at the James Beard House in 1994, followed by many TV appearances (CBS Sunday Morning and NBC’s The Today Show) and long waiting lists to get a seat in his restaurants.

Most recently, Urbanspoon ranked his eight-year old ACRE restaurant one of the 250 most popular high-end restaurants in America.

The chef cut his culinary chops while just a young boy. He grew up watching his mother and grandmother prepare classic Chinese dishes, as well as helping his family grow vegetables in their garden and raise a variety of chickens, guinea hens, and quail in their backyard. “Food was a big part of my family and our Chinese American culture.”

Born in Hong Kong, he ended up in Cleveland at the age of four when his parents and younger brother moved to America. By the time he was eight, he was working at his family’s restaurant, KC’s, which offered Mississippi Delta-inspired food and Chinese dishes. “Living in a small town, we had to be all things to all people, but over time, we made changes to the menu and received more notoriety and press.”

One of the earliest

lessons Joe says he learned about food was to treat it with respect. He took this respect and combined it with deeply-rooted influences from his family and the Italian, Lebanese, Latino, and African-American heritages of the Delta community to create his cuisine. “Above all, my menu is very seasonal and about what is fresh now.”

After high school, he went on to college at Ole Miss and graduated with a degree in banking and finance in 1987.

His interest in wine also grew during this time, and he

Chef Wally Joe 48 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

One of Chef Wally Joe’s beautiful culinary creations - Foie Gras Torchon with Pickled Blueberries, Pecan Granola, Berry Gastrique, & Toasted Brioche eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 49

Chef Wally Joe’s Smoked Bulgogi Beef Belly with Avocado-Tomato Salad, Kimchee Rice Fritter, and a Gochujang Sauce

started a collection long before he had an established career.

He returned home to his family’s restaurant and it soon became the only Mississippi restaurant to be inducted into the Nation’s Restaurant News Fine Dining Hall of Fame. It was also the only restaurant in Mississippi to be awarded AAA 4-Diamond status.

He launched his namesake restaurant in Memphis in 2002 to more rave reviews.

About four years later, Joe closed the restaurant and began the long planning process for ACRE, which is named for the residential acre in East Memphis that it encompasses, with his fellow chef and partner, Andrew Adams, and Memphis residents

50 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

Mary and Frank Stanley. The restaurant’s neighborhood setting with communal tables and modern cuisine, which even includes a whole young pig (must be pre-ordered 10 days in advance), make it yet another acclaimed and in-demand restaurant.

And that’s why Joe is content right where he is. edm ACRE 690 South Perkins Memphis, TN 38117 901.818.2273 www.acrememphis.com

Grilled Hoisin-Glazed Quail with Fried Green Tomatoes and Charred Onion-BBQ Balsamic Sauce

by Chef Wally Joe

Sauce: 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 small onion, sliced and charred over open flame 1 large stalk celery, diced small 1 small carrot, diced small 3 cup dry red wine 1 cup balsamic vinegar 3/4 teaspoon ground cumin 1-1/4 teaspoon mild chili powder 3/4 teaspoon smoked paprika 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper 4 tablespoon granulated sugar 1 cup veal glace

Serves 4 Quail: 4 semi-boneless quail 1 tablespoon hoisin sauce 1-1/2 teaspoons Sambaal Oelek 1 teaspoon sesame oil Mix all ingredients together and marinate at least 2 hours Fried Green Tomatoes: 2 cups yellow cornmeal Salt and pepper 1 egg 2 cups buttermilk 2 medium green tomatoes, sliced 4 cups vegetable oil, for frying

Heat olive oil in a medium size sauce pan. Sauté the vegetables until caramelized.

Add all remaining ingredients except veal glace. Reduce by half.

Add veal glace and simmer until reduced by one-third.

Check seasoning and adjust if needed.

Put cornmeal in a shallow pan and season with salt and pepper.

In a medium mixing bowl, beat the egg into the buttermilk.

Dip the green tomato slices in the buttermilk first, then dredge them in the cornmeal. Set aside and reserve.

Heat the oil to 350 F. Carefully fry the tomato slices until golden brown.

Assembly: Grill quail on both sides to about medium. The marinade on the quail will caramelize, but you will need to watch carefully so it doesn’t burn.

Place 2 slices of fried green tomatoes on center of the plate.

Slice quail in half and arrange on top of the tomatoes. Spoon sauce onto quail and around the plate. Serve and enjoy.

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eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 51

{ from the bookshelf }

Just Peachy

By Belinda Smith-Sullivan Photographs by Mark Boughton Published by Gibbs Smith

by PAIGE MCKAY

S

everal fruits and vegetables are associated with summertime, and one of those is the sweet, fuzzy peach. Peaches are delicious to snack on, but they are also great for adding into different recipes that might seem strange, but they add the perfect flavor profile. In Belinda Smith-Sullivan’s Just Peachy cookbook, she highlights the fruit with 70 different peachy recipes. From breads and breakfast to appetizers, entrées, desserts, sauces and preserves, condiments, and drinks, the recipes are, in fact, just peachy.

Not only is Just Peachy full of sweet and savory recipes, but Smith-Sullivan also includes facts about peaches, information on growing them, festivals, a list of all peach varietals and how to use them, and the history of peaches.

Along with a new recipe, readers can also learn new things about the fuzzy fruit.

After the informative sections of Just Peachy, the cookbook starts out with Breads and Breakfasts that center around the peach. Recipes include treats like Blueberry Peach Pecan Scones with Lemon Glaze, Cast Iron Peach Cornbread, Buttermilk Peach Waffles, and Spinach-Peach Omelet. Some of the recipes may seem out of the ordinary, but the reality is that peaches are versatile enough that they pair with many different foods and bring out different flavors.

After breakfast, peachy appetizers are highlighted in the Appetizer chapter. Start off any summer meal with bites like Peach Guacamole, Crab Cakes with Peach Jalapeño Salsa, or a Mascarpone Prosciutto Peach Crostini. Grilled peaches on the crostini make for the perfect touch on the classic appetizer.

After appetizers, flip through the Just Peachy pages that include Soups, Salads, and Sides. Peachy soup may sound strange, but a cold, refreshing Peach and Tomato Gazpacho is the perfect chilled summer soup that incorporates the delicious fruit. Other recipes include Peach-Pistachio Chicken Salad, Peach-Sweet Potato Casserole, Chilled Peach Mint

52 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

Soup, and Tropical Peach-Berry Salad.

For the Main Course section, recipes include hearty and savory meals that pair perfectly with peaches. Try something new for dinner with a dish like Blackened Cod Tacos with Peach Salsa, Thyme-Peach Chicken Breasts, Greek-Style Beef Stew with Peaches, Herb-Crusted Peach Mustard Pork Tenderloin, or Spicy Oven Ribs with Peach Barbecue Sauce. Whether you’re grilling out or preparing dinner in the kitchen, Just Peachy has your new favorite peachy dinner recipe.

After dinner comes dessert, of course, and no Southern meal is complete without a peach pie or a peach-flavored dessert. In the Pies chapter, learn how to make pie crust dough from scratch to go with the Old-Fashioned Peach Pie. Or, opt for the Blueberry-Peach Slump, BlackberryPeach Buckle, or a classic “Easy as Pie” Peach Cobbler. If pies aren’t your cup of tea, flip to the next chapter for other peachy desserts. Find sweet treats like Peach Bread Pudding, Peach-Amaretto Ice Cream, Oreo-Peach Cheesecake, and Chocolate-Peach Souffle to satisfy any sweet tooth.

The last two chapters of Just Peachy include sauces, condiments, and beverages that center around the fruit with recipes like Peach-Mango Sauce for fish and pork, Spicy Peach-Jalapeno salsa to spice up any taco, and Rum Peach Coulis to drizzle over any dessert of choice. If you’re looking to sip on something peachy, try out beverages like Sparkling Peach-Blueberry Lemonade, Peach Strawberry-Kiwi Sangria, or a Peach Margarita.

Before peaches go out of season, pick up a few from your local farmers market or grocery store to try your hand at a peachy recipe whether it’s a main course or a classic, peachflavored dessert. Just Peachy will guide you through which kind of peaches work well with different recipes, and the colorful pages provide specific detail so that you can create the perfect peachy recipe. edm

Mascarpone Prosciutto Peach Crostini What I like about this appetizer is its versatility: make it with grilled peaches or plain, crostini or just sliced baguette, prosciutto or not, or drizzled with reduced balsamic or honey.

This is the peach appetizer of endless possibilities.

Makes 12 1 large firm peach, cut into 12 thick slices Olive oil spray 1⁄2 cup balsamic vinegar 12 crostini (recipe follows) 4 ounces mascarpone Arugula 6 slices prosciutto, halved Spray peaches with olive oil. On a grill pan or outdoor grill at medium heat, place peach slices crosswise so they don’t fall through the grates. Grill for 2–3 minutes on each side until you see grill marks. Do not allow to get too soft.

Remove from grill.

In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, bring the vinegar to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and let cook until

reduced by half. Remove from heat and let cool.

Place crostini on a large serving platter. Spread each slice with mascarpone. Top each with arugula, a piece of prosciutto, and a peach slice. When ready to serve, drizzle with the balsamic reduction. Transfer any leftover reduction to a small jar and refrigerate.

CROSTINI 1 baguette, diagonally sliced Olive oil spray Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Spray each slice with olive oil on both sides. Place on a sheet pan and bake for 15–20 minutes until slightly golden. Cool on pan. Store in a ziplock bag if not using immediately.

Recipe and photo from Just Peachy

by Belinda Smith-Sullivan Photography by Mark Boughton Gibbs-Smith/May 2019 eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 53

Remembering Home

Native Mississippians Celebrate Their Roots in Albany, N.Y.

L

by Paige McKay

ocated in Albany, N.Y., A Village, Inc., is seeking to improve the quality of life for residents of Albany’s South end and reclaim their neighborhoods by encouraging and empowering their community. Though the organization is located 1,400 miles away from the state of Mississippi, the Southern ties are strong, especially when it comes to our state.

In the late 1950s and early 60s, Mississippi native Reverend John “Jack” Johnson played an integral role in the Great Migration from Shubuta to Albany. He would go back and forth from New York to Mississippi and bring people to Albany in his station wagon, and many of the Mississippians settled there. To

White agreed and said he wanted to get everyone together for a “reunion” of sorts, and the rest is history.

In 2012, the inaugural Mississippi Day took place all the way in Lincoln Park in Albany, N.Y., and it’s been an annual event ever since. The first Mississippi Day drew about 800 people to the Albany party, and the next brought nearly 1,500. Going on its eighth year, this year’s Mississippi Day is set for September 7th.

“Mississippi Day is our pride and joy,” White said. “It’s our biggest event every year because of all the migrants in Albany.”

Mississippi Day is put on with the help of several A Village fundraisers throughout the year and is free to the public.

Whether you have Mississippi roots or not, the entire Albany community is encouraged to come celebrate Mississippi and enjoy the company of friends and strangers alike.

To learn more about “Even people A Village, Inc., and from Mississippi Day, or to find out how you can help their cause, visit www.avillageworks.org.

this day, there are still several Mississippi natives who reside in the Albany area.

Former executive director of A Village, Willie White, moved to Albany from Mississippi many years ago and planted his roots there. He started his organization, A Village, in 2009 to help improve his community.

“I went out and made some flyers and just handed them out,” White said. “It took off from there.”

White prides A Village in its involvement in the community when it comes to education, transportation, and medical needs.

“We are all-encompassing in lifting the community,” he said.

Another Mississippian who has lived in the Albany area since 1964, Clara Phillips, came across White passing out his flyers when he was starting the organization, and she then became a member of A Village and is still on the board to this day.

One day, Phillips told White, “We should have a Mississippi party because there are so many of us here.”

54 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

Mississippi

Albany, N.Y.

out-ofstate come to Mississippi Day,” Phillips said. “All colors from all over, they all come.”

The shining star of Mississippi Day is, to no surprise, the food. Guests are treated to a Mississippi-style made complete with baked chicken, mac and greens, mixed vegetables, and banana pudding. highlight of the fun-filled

meal barbecue ribs, fried and cheese, green beans, collard cornbread, sweet potato pie, Live entertainment is also a day.

“People love the mac and cheese,” Phillips laughed.

Mississippi Day gives A Village the chance to fill the community with a day of fun and positivity while creating a sense of togetherness, which is what much of A Village is centered around. If you live in Albany area or want to take a road trip, Mississippi Day is set for September 7th in Lincoln Park, and the congregation will meet at St. John Church and march to the park like they’ve done for the last seven years.

“It’s tradition,” Phillips said. edm

Serving Jackson for Over 10 Years

• •

Lunch served Monday to Saturday from 11:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m.

Dinner served Thursday to Saturday from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m.

618 22nd Ave., Meridian | www.harvestgrillms.com | 601-282-5069

Bin 612 boasts a cafe-like atmosphere popular with college students and locals alike. The Bin’s menu offers an eclectic blend of pizzas, panini, burgers and more made with fresh local ingredients.

•

612 UNIVERSITY DR. • STARKVILLE 662.324.6126 WWW.EATLOCALSTARKVILLE.COM MONDAY-THURSDAY 11AM-12AM FRIDAY-SATURDAY 11AM-1AM SUNDAY 11AM-10PM

1491 Canton Mart Rd. Ste. 12, Jackson 601.957.1441

DINING GUIDE - DINING GUIDE - DINING GUIDE • DINING GUIDE - DINING GUIDE

Southern-Inspired. Seasonally-Crafted. Devilishly Good.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 55

{ where to eat }

Hine's Grocery & Steakhouse 45 Schaeffer Rd., Yazoo City • 662.746.5566 • www.facebook.com/hines.grocery story and photography by paige mckay

L

ocated just outside of downtown Yazoo City, Hines Grocery has been serving Yazoo and surrounding communities since 1985. Over 30 years ago, John and Eva Hines opened Hines Grocery as a small convenience store and a place to sell their own pork sausage – a staple to the store. When the floods of 2011 devastated the area and the store, John and Eva put the store up for sale, but their daughter and son-in-law, Tracy and John Fouche, purchased the store and eventually added on the restaurant side of Hines Grocery and Steakhouse.

Today, Hines Grocery and Steakhouse is still serving up their iconic sausage and other delicious weekday lunches and weekend dinners.

Before the restaurant at Hines Grocery came to be, the grocery side of the establishment was used as place for the original owners, John and Eva, to sell their pork sausage. Back in the 80s, John owned a hog parlor, located across the street from the grocery, and he would process and sell his sausage in the store. Eventually, the rules and regulations with the USDA changed, so they switched to buying USDA-inspected meat, and they further processed it. To this day, sausage is still processed in the back of the grocery and sold in the coolers to locals and out-oftowners. The sausage is the “backbone” of the operation, said Elizabeth Ables, manager at Hines Grocery and Steakhouse.

“The sausage is what keeps us here, that’s what we are known for,” Ables said. “The restaurant is just a little extra something.”

On any given day, customers can walk through the doors of Hines Grocery and Steakhouse, and the smell of smoked meat fills the air whether it’s their smoked sausage or plate lunches on the restaurant side, and fresh pork skins cover the countertop for customers to purchase and take

56 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

Salmon Salad

Will’s Blackened Red Fish

16-ounce Ribeye eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 57

home with them. The vintage convenience store shelves are filled with typical candies and snacks with drinks and beer in the coolers, but the main purpose of the convenience store is to sell the iconic Hines sausage. Flavors of sausage include hot, mild, pineapple, pineapple and pepperjack, and jalapeño cheese, and sausage is available in patties and links. Along with sausage, the coolers are also filled with cheeses, bacon, and other meats available for purchase.

To the left of the convenience store is the lunch dining room and an added-on dining room that is usually reserved for Friday and Saturday night dinners. The restaurant at Hines Grocery opened several years ago as a place where Yazoo locals and farmers in the area could grab breakfast and lunch.

Breakfast starts at 6 a.m. with sausage, of course, and biscuits, as well as breakfast platters. Lunch is available Monday through Friday with daily choices ranging from hamburger steak to poboys, burgers, chicken tenders, pork tenderloin, catfish, porkchops, and, the fan-favorite, barbecue ribs.

“Friday is rib day, and everyone loves rib day,” Ables explained.

Hines Grocery also has several different deli and lunch meat options that customers can purchase and take home, too.

Lunch only is served Monday through Friday, but on Friday and Saturday nights, the dining room add-on opens for the highly anticipated steak nights at Hines Grocery.

“We have the best steaks in Yazoo,” Ables said. “We only buy the best USDA choice meat, and it is truly the best.”

Fresh Pork Skins

58 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

Along with steaks, other dinner items include catfish, porkchop, redfish, shrimp, and other specialty dishes that change as the weeks go by.

Breakfast, lunch, and dinner is all fresh and home-cooked at Hines Grocery, and people continue to come back for more – whether it’s for a meal or a package or two of Hines smoked sausage.

“The restaurant is good, and the sausage is what has kept us here for so long,” Ables said.

Next time you find yourself traveling around or through Yazoo City, make a point to travel a couple extra minutes to “the middle of nowhere,” as Ables called it, to grab lunch, dinner, or a couple pounds of Hines sausage to take home.

There’s a reason the sausage has been a top seller for over three decades.

“It’s just that good,” Ables said. edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 59

60 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

{ featured festival}

Get a Taste of Germany at Gluckstadt's Annual GermanFest

N

story by paige mckay | photography by j.j. carney

ow on its 33rd year, the annual Gluckstadt GermanFest is set for Sunday, September 29th, on the grounds of St. Joseph’s Catholic Church in Gluckstadt from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Enjoy an afternoon full of authentic German food, music, wine, games, and fun for the entire family.

The Gluckstadt community, just a few miles north of Madison, was founded in 1905 by families of German descent, and many of the descendants of the original families still live in the area and attend St. Joseph’s. Each year, the church hosts GermanFest on the last Sunday in September as their annual fundraising event for the church.

This family-oriented festival is best known for its food and music. Attendees can snack on sizzling shish kebabs, bratwurst covered in sauerkraut, oven-baked pretzels, hot dogs, rippchenkraut (porkchop with sauerkraut), and homemade desserts including pies, cookies, cakes, and, of course, authentic German strudel. Meal tickets are $6 in advance and $7 the day of GermanFest.

For those who want to take home food to enjoy, the Country Store will be open on site with an assortment of

If you can’t make it to this year’s GermanFest but still want to feel like you’re there, try out this Apple Strudel recipe from St. Joseph’s cookbook.

homemade breads, desserts, jellies, canned goods, and, the star of the show, homemade sauerkraut. Church members make hundreds of quarts of the salty cabbage delicacy using a recipe handed down through generations of Germans that reside in Gluckstadt, so it’s truly authentic and delicious. Other things available for purchase at the Country Store are commemorative items, t-shirts, craft items, jewelry, and much more, all made by church members. Those who are 21 and older can enjoy beer on tap and the German wine tasting booth.

While you munch on pretzels and brats, enjoy the sounds of The Polka Meisters, an authentic, German folk band based out of Tulsa, Okla. Along with live music, other entertainment includes face painting for the kids, as well as go-fish and other fun games that kids of all ages will enjoy.

Gather the entire family and head out to St. Joseph’s for a fun-filled Sunday afternoon. Admission and parking are free, and festival-goers are encouraged to bring lawn chairs. Meal tickets can be purchased by calling the parish office at 601-8562054. For more information, call Pam Minninger at the church at the same phone number. edm

Apple Strudel Pastry 2 sticks oleo 1 (8-ounce) block cream cheese 2 cups unsifted flour Mix softened oleo and cream cheese. Add flour, half a cup at a time, and mix together well. Form into a ball or log. Wrap in plastic wrap, then wrap in foil. Refrigerate overnight.

The next day, divide dough into thirds. Roll each third between two floured sheets of plastic wrap into a 9-by-11-inch rectangle. Spread onethird of the filling over the dough leaving one inch on the 9-inch side and of the 11-inch sides. On the side that has the filling to the edge, start rolling in a jelly-roll fashion. Tuck the ends and place seam-side down on a baking sheet. Prick top with a fork about every inch. Bake at 325 degrees F for 40 minutes or until brown.

Filling: 1/2 cup applesauce 2 apples, peeled, cored, and sliced 1 cup sugar 1 teaspoon apple pie spice 3 tablespoons flour 1/4 teaspoon salt 4 ounces cream cheese 1 cup chopped pecans Mix together in a sauce pan, stirring constantly. Cook until thick, about 5 to 6 minutes. Cool before using.

Alternate filling: 1 cup applesauce 3 apples, peeled, cored, and sliced 1/2 cup dark brown sugar 1/2 cup white sugar 1 teaspoon apple pie spice 4 tablespoons flour 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/2 cup chopped pecans Mix together in a sauce pan, stirring constantly. Cook until thick, about 5 minutes. Cool before using. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 61

Food Festivals & Events

September 9th

August 24th

Starkville - Forks and Corks A dozen of the Golden Triangle’s top chefs compete for prizes and bragging rights during this year’s Forks and Corks Chef ’s Competition. Each chef prepares their best dish for competition while attendees have the opportunity to try each one and vote for their favorite. The winning chef will take home the Best of Forks & Corks award as well as bragging rights for the next year. A panel of judges will be judging the dishes on taste, originality, and presentation. Each ticket includes wine and tastings from Mississippi’s craft breweries.

The event will be held at the The Mill Conference Center on Saturday, August 24th. For more information, visit www. starkvillearts.net/forks--corks.html.

Ridgeland Sweetest Chefs of the South The most indulgent party of the year, Sweetest Chefs of the South will feature dessert tastings from 15 of the South’s A-list pastry chefs, along with live music, coffee cupping, a savory food bar, cocktails, wine and spirits, a cigar bar, and a live demo stage. Sweetest Chefs will be held on September 9th at The Lake House in Ridgeland from 7 to 9 p.m. with VIP entry starting at 6:30. For tickets or more information, visit www. sweetestchefs.com •••

•••

September 14th & 15th

September 9th

Pelahatchie - Muscadine Jubilee Pay homage to the muscadine grape by joining the city of Pelahatchie for the 39th annual Muscadine Jubilee.

Activities include food, fun, arts and crafts, live music, and a grape stomp. Gates will open at 10 a.m. For more information, call 601-854-5224 or visit www.facebook.com/ pelahatchiemuscadinejubilee/.

62 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

Biloxi Seafood Festival The Biloxi Seafood Festival will take place at the Biloxi Town Green on September 14th and 15th. This event offers seafood and food vendors, arts and craft vendors, live entertainment, children’s activities, gumbo contest, and much more. Crowds at the Biloxi Seafood Festival feast on a vast spectrum of seafood ranging from the common to the exotic, along with many other types of food. Visit www.biloxi.org or call 228-604-0014 for more information.

September 20th

Cleveland 28th Annual Rice Tasting Luncheon The Mississippi Delta Rice Industry celebrates National Rice Month with its 29th Annual Rice Tasting Luncheon on September 20th from 11 a.m. until 1 p.m. at the Wyatt Gynmasium on Delta State’s campus in Cleveland. The event features over 300 rice dishes prepared by local rice growing families and Delta restaurants. Delta Rice Promotions, Inc. is the host. For additional information, call 662-843-8362.

•••

October 4th & 5th

Columbus - Roast & Boast Head to the Columbus-Lowndes Fairgrounds on October 4th and 5th for the annual Roast and Boast BBQ Competition.

This annual barbecue cook-off is a Kansas City Barbecue Society sanctioned event and is a Columbus favorite every year. Enjoy barbecue chicken, ribs, brisket, and pork, and stick around to see who will take home the grand prize. The tea is sweet, and the fun, food, and prizes are even sweeter. For more information, visit www.roastandboast.com.

•••

October 5th

Madison - Day in the Country

October 1st

Madison - Food for Thought Join MadCAAP at the Town of Livingston for a night of food, drinks, and live music. Food and wine will be provided by several fine restaurants from the metro area and will also feature our “Not To Be Missed” silent auction held in Livingston Chapel. For more information and to purchase tickets, visit www.madcaap.org

Day in the Country is a community festival held on the grounds of Chapel of the Cross each first Saturday in October. It draws more than 10,000 visitors annually with families enjoying food, music, artisans, crafts, tours of the Chapel, Barbecue Cook-Off, the famous 63-Egg Cake, and children’s games and rides. This year’s Day in the Country will be held on October 5th. For more information, visit www. chapelofthecrossms.org or call 601-856-2593.

To have your food festival or culinary event included in future issues, please contact us at info@eatdrinkmississippi.com. All submissions are subject to editor’s approval. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 63

Recipe Index Apple Strudel Pastry, 61

Advertisers Index Bin 612, 55 BlueCross BlueShield of Mississippi, 14

Bourbon-Glazed Pork Skewers, 22

Crazy Cat Eat Up, 55

Fig Salad, 27

Harvest Grill, 55

Grilled Hoisin-Glazed Quail with Fried Green Tomatoes and Charred Onion-BBQ Balsamic Sauce, 51

MadCAAP’s Food for Thought, 3

Grilled Peach Dessert Skewers, 23

Mississippi Children’s Museum, Back Cover

Instant Pot Mediterranean Turkey and Rice, 8 Marscapone Prosciutto Peach Crostini, 53 Shrimp Boil Kebabs, 23 Tomato Pie, 8

McEwen’s, 55 Mississippi Food Network, 65 Mistletoe Marketplace, 2 New Grass Farms, 7 Simmons Catfish, 9 Spoonfudge, 9 The Kitchen Table, 7 Visit Jackson, 4 & 5

Follow us on Instagram to see some of the tasty, local bites we’ve discovered!

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MISSISSIPPI www.instagram.com/eatdrinkmississippi 64 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019

DID YOU KNOW? • Almost 1 in 4 Mississippians — about 690,000 people — don’t have enough to eat.

• More than 1 in 4 children (28.7%) go to bed hungry most every night.

Stomachs are growling all over the state. Hunger is a problem all across America, but in Mississippi, it’s practically an epidemic.

DONATE NOW! Every $1.00 donated provides seven meals to hungry Mississippians.

www.msfoodnet.org

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10 Incredible Places to Wine & Dine | Mississippi Mead | Gluckstadt’s GermanFest

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Local chefs win cooking competitions eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

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Till We Eat Again

BILL DABNEY PHOTOGRAPHY

Jay Reed, a graduate of Ole Miss, lives in Starkville where he is a pharmacist by day and a freelance food writer by day off. He is a member of the Southern Foodways Alliance and writes "Eats One Ate," a weekly column in the Starkville Daily News.

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER2019 2019 66 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER

Plan For Experience and Hunger When Dining Out

H

BY JAY REED

ave you ever made an online reservation at a restaurant? Apparently I have, because I get an email about once a week telling me all about dining options in a neighboring state that “people like me” are trying. (Whatever that means…I don’t even have my own Wikipedia page.)

That’s the new way of doing things - using an online service like OpenTable or Resy - but whether or not you’ve embraced that technology, most of us have planned ahead for a meal out for a birthday, anniversary, special date, etc. We’ve picked the perfect restaurant, we’ve picked the perfect day, and we’ve picked the perfect time. My question is this: How did you know you’d be hungry at that moment?

Notice I asked the question in the second person. I didn’t need to ask if I’d be hungry. Tomorrow or the day after Thanksgiving, there’s a 98% chance I will be perusing a menu or scanning the pantry. But not everybody is “people like me.”

Back to the question. The juxtaposition of setting a reservation time and the probability of hunger at that moment is something I’ve been thinking about ever since I heard Joann Clevenger, long-time proprietor of Upperline Restaurant in New Orleans, discuss the idea in an interview on the Southern Foodways Alliance podcast, “Gravy.” To paraphrase what she said: we don’t, in fact, make a reservation for a future meal because of hunger - that would be practically impossible, and impossibly impractical. We make a reservation with the expectation of an experience.

Think about it. If you call Upperline or that favorite neighborhood spot where everybody knows your name and book a large table for 10 so the family can celebrate Junior’s first job, the food they serve is almost certainly going to be a factor in your decision making. Nobody wants to celebrate with lousy eats. But, it’s not the only consideration. You might remember what you ate at a particular party (I would be that guy), but when you tell stories of the event, it’ll be about who was there, the atmosphere of the room, and maybe even a retelling of the jokes that were told - the good, the bad, and the “dad.” (I would also be that guy.)

Ms. Clevenger is right, and it didn’t take much of my declining memory to come up with some examples. About 15 years ago, my wife and I went to Hawaii, and a local friend recommended a restaurant that was right on the beach. We could have had a great meal at any time (and I do remember the crusted fish and the dessert shaped like Diamond Head), but my friend told us you could watch the sunset from the outdoor seating, and we set the reservation for that time. Thankfully, when it began to rain, the nice people were able to move us under a covered area so we could still see the sunset, and fifteen years later, I vividly remember the experience.

A few years back, we decided to celebrate our anniversary weekend in the Delta and did the full circuit: Alluvian Hotel and a spa afternoon, Viking Cooking School, Tallahatchie Flats, and the B.B. King Museum. I wasn’t sure when we’d get back to that part of the state, so we ate in as many classic restaurants (and one convenience store) as possible. I lost count of all the meals. I wasn’t hungry for a solid 48 hours.

But we still made a reservation at Lusco’s because we wanted that experience of eating in our own private booth.

A year or two later, we went the other direction and celebrated in Birmingham.

We had some fun meals at places where we just showed up and waited in line. But for our “nice” dinner, I did not just make sure - well in advance of the trip - that we had a table at Highlands Bar and Grill for dinner. I also requested that we be seated in a particular waiter’s section. We had seen an SFA documentary film about this gentleman and wanted a tale of our own to tell. It was a great night and yes, of course, we ate the baked grits.

The flip side of this idea is that you actually want to be hungry if you’re going to all the trouble of making a reservation weeks in advance. You know where you’re going, you know when you’re going, and you’ve got plenty of time to study the menu before you get there. As long as you’re planning, plan to be hungry. Be that guy. edm

Gourmet Grilling | My Delicious Mississippi Life | Watermelon Carnival

Natchez Food Tour | Clean Kitchen | Chefs of the Coast

Deep South Dining | Turnip Greens & Tortillas | Philadelphia Ham Jam

Mediterranean Diet | Mississippi Vegan | SFA’s Guide to Cocktails

VOLUME 7, NUMBER 3

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MISSISSIPPI weeknight dinners

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farm FRESH

Back-to-School

Bursting with Blueberries

Strawberries and Champagne Cheesecake Sweet Tea Brined Pork Chops Brunswick Stew

Cheddar Green Onion Biscuits Mississippi Cathead Vodka Shrimp

15

11

appetizers we love!

Shrimp and Grits

and where to find them

Places to chill with a sweet treat

Baked Brie en Croute

FOURTH OF JULY FAMILY PICNIC

at Home

+ The Trusty Diner + Airport Grocery + Monte’s Steak and Seafood + Skylight Grill + Morgan’s on Main

April/May 2018

August/September 2018

Smoked Sausage Hash eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

Romantic Dinner

Strawberry Iced Tea

GREENVILLE RESTAURANT GETS CELEBRITY CHEF MAKEOVER

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+ V. Taco + Bentonia Bugs Crawfish + Crazy Cat Eat Up + Gitano Grill + White Pillars

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7 Extreme Milkshakes | Community Farmers Market | Corinth’s Slugburger Festival

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Mississippi’s Bicentennial | Backroads and Burgers | A Taste of Home Town

VOLUME 8, NUMBER 1

HOLIDAYAPPETIZERS

Holiday Recipes | See & Eat Mississippi | St. Jude Taste of Oxford

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MISSISSIPPI MISSISSIPPI MISSISSIPPI Pumpkin Palooza

Make-Ahead

Elvis-Inspired Recipes

CRANBERRY

CRAZE eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

Old Biloxi French Gumbo

Feast Like The King in Tupelo eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

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Christmas Breakfast Casserole

Mississippi Seafood Trail | Berry Picking | The Great Ruleville Roast

VOLUME 6, NUMBER 5

Short Rib Crostini Orange Slice Candy Cake

Palate to Palette | Gucci to Goats | The Great Mississippi River Balloon Race

VOLUME 6, NUMBER 6

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PICK 5 BACK ISSUES FOR $2499* & SAVE 37%!

Christmas Cherry Bread

Baked Ricotta

Easy Pecan Sticky Buns

Pasta Jambalaya

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+ Forklift + Downtown Grille + 303 Jefferson + 1884 Cafe + Sully’s

Crunchy Grilled Snapper Burritos Classic Southern Tomato Pie Quickie Pie

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December/January 2019

+ On a Roll Gourmet Egg Rolls + Dino’s Grocery + Saltine Restaurant + Commodore Bob’s Yacht Club + Charred

August/September 2017

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October/November 2017

+ The Rainey + Mai Little Chinese + The Anthony + Sonny’s Smokehouse + Dempsey’s Seafood & Steak

Bacon and Black Eyed Pea Hummus

4

PLACES TO RING IN THE NEW YEAR

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mschildrensmuseum.org • 601.981.5469 • Jackson, MS This project is partially funded through a grant by Visit Jackson.

68 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2019