eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017
Yuletide Yummies page 22
UP IN FARMS FOOD HUB
GINGERBREAD VILLAGE
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2 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017
2017
T hird Annual
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March 23, 2017 For more information, visit www.msfoodnet.org. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 3
Today’s hottest trends in sizes up to 3X!
733 Lake Harbour Dr. (beside Newk’s Eatery) Ridgeland, MS 39157 601.397.6525 • www.sscboutique.com
Transforming the essence of Mediterranean food and Southern classics
1200 N. STATE ST., JACKSON, MS | 601.398.4562 | THEMANSHIPJACKSON.COM 4 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017
CONTENTS December/January 2017 • Volume 6 Number 1
36
in this issue 14 WHAT’S HOT Cauliflower Steak
18 CHEF’S CORNER Chef Mary Helen Hawkins Shares the Passion of Cooking and Making Memories
28 MISSISSIPPI MADE MeMaw’s Cheese Straws
32 MEMORY LANE Collard Greens Bring Favorite Taste and Traditional Color to Southern Christmas Table
36 COMMUNITY Up in Farms Food Hub
38 TIS THE SEASON FOR GIVING Tips for Donating to Food Charities
14 eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 5
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MISSISSIPPI Bringing Mississippi Roots to the Table EATS
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Mother’s Day Brunch page 25
VOLUME 5, NUMBER 4
April/May 2016
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+ Ciao Chow + Crawdad’s + Restaurant 1818 + Thai by Thai + The Greenhouse on Porter
JUNE/JULY 2016
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THE ART OF FOOD
RANDOM RESTAURANT ROAD TRIPS BOUNTIFUL BERRIES eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI
Delight in the
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+ Oxford Canteen + Levon’s Bar and Grill + Culinary Cowboy + Longhorn’s Steakhouse + Ed’s Burger Joint
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MISSISSIPPI Summer Salads Sweet Treats page 34
AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016
page 68
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FOOD FLIGHT
TUPELO CELEBRATES 100 YEARS OF COCA-COLA
LOCAL RICE GROWERS
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for the Season page 22
FOOD REVOLUTION
HOMEMADE CHICKEN PIE
LOCAL CHEF CROWNED KING OF SEAFOOD
+ Southern Eatery + CRAVE Bistro + Livingston + Skidmore’s Grill
+ Tasty Tails eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI •1
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI www.eatdrinkmississippi.com
CONTENTS December/January 2017
47
56 46 IN THE BLOGLIGHT Mississippi Made
48 FROM MISSISSIPPI TO BEYOND Farmer’s Daughter Preserves Southern Flavor
52 FROM THE BOOKSHELF On the Coast - Troy Gilbert and Matthew Mayfield
54 RAISE YOUR GLASS Winter White Cosmo
56 THE HILLS GRIT in Taylor
60 THE DELTA The Crystal Grill in Greenwood
54
64 THE PINES Nightingale’s Pantry in West Point
68 CAPITAL/RIVER Moo’s Barn and Grill in Natchez
72 COASTAL Hook Gulf Coast Cuisine in Pass Christian
76 FEATURED EVENT Gingerbread Village in Oxford
in every issue 8 From the Publisher 10 From Our Readers 16 Fabulous Foodie Finds 20 Deep South Dish 78 Events 80 Recipe/Ad Index 82 Till We Eat Again
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 7
{ from the publisher }
T
he Christmas season truly is the most wonderful time of the year. The sights and smells and sounds are what make the holiday magical. The memories that are made linger in our hearts and minds for a lifetime. Of all the activities surrounding Christmas, surely preparing cookies for Santa is a favorite for many. It’s one of the final festivities My children, John Taylor and Anne Morgan, decorate before the jolly old man arrives that makes cookies for Santa on Christmas Eve 2004. kids giddy with excitement. After all, it’s the moment they’ve been anticipating all year My teenage son is, of course, "too old" to participate in the long. Lucky for Santa, he’s rewarded for his long journey in a Christmas cookie tradition. My daughter, however, will probably delicious way. never outgrow it. She inherited my love of all things sweet and has recently mastered the art of cookie decorating. She's putting I’ve made my own cookie memories with my kids through the her cookie passion to good use by working at a bakery while years. Some years we have taken the time to bake homemade pursuing a degree in Hospitality Management at Ole Miss. She cookies and decorate them with frosting and sprinkles galore. and her grandmother have made some sweet memories through Other times, the exhaustion from getting prepared for the this passion. holiday has gotten the best of us and slice-and-bake Christmas cookies have had to suffice. Santa never seems to care, as he We’ve gathered some great ideas to help make your Christmas always leaves an empty plate. Eve easier when the time arrives for paying Santa back for his hard work. If baking isn’t your thing, don’t worry because we found some delicious ready-made treats that are sure to delight. If you’d like to try your hand at baking homemade cookies, Chef Mary Helen Hawkins has shared her recipe along with a recipe for delicious Belgium Hot Chocolate with Chantilly cream. You’ll find them on page 19. We are embarking on our sixth year of publishing this magazine. It has been a joy getting to know the people behind our local food scene and sharing their stories with you. We appreciate your support by reading the magazine and sharing it with your family and friends. I wish you a Merry Christmas and hope for a prosperous new year. Put the cookies in the oven (or stop by your local bakery) and let's eat!
My daughter, Anne Morgan, enjoys making Christmas cookies with my mother, Joy.
hospitality.” q "When God's people are in need, be ready to help them. Always be eager to practiceRomans 12:13 r EAT DRINK MISSISSIPPI (USPS 17200) is published bi-monthly by Carney Publications LLC, 296 F.E. Sellers Hwy., Monticello, MS 39654-9555. Periodicals postage paid at Monticello, MS, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to EAT DRINK MISSISSIPPI, P.O. Box 1663, Madison, MS 39130.
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{ from our readers } Love my Eat Drink Mississippi magazine!
The whole magazine has pages folded down so that I can go back and reference the names of all of the delicious restaurants, farmer’s markets, chefs, and recipes. Thank you!
Margy Lee Thaxton Facebook Fan
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I really enjoy your magazine. It gets better with every issue. I wish you’d include all the recipes in each issue.
Thank you for the great article about the Karovan (in the August/September 2016 issue).
Harry Baldwin Thank you for you your loyal readership. We try to include as many recipes as possible, but many of the people and restaurants we feature are reluctant to share their recipes. -EDM Libations
Karey Evans Jackson on
Location
ate penter Cre nt Leslie Car Eve y Evans and s Charm to Any Cousins Kare Bar That Add bile Unique Mo
The Karovan Bar www.thekarovanbar.com Karey Evans 601.209.6754 Leslie Carpenter 601.624.8850
story by susan Marquez | photos by pound photogra hen Karey Evans’ youngest son was phy the couple wanted getting married, a food truck at in the little karovan their wedding reception. and begin a mobile come from a crazy bar business. “We Evans had the idea When thinking about what to place. We love to do for a bar, both of a “bar truck” around people and entertain and we She began doing to love being meeting new people,” some research and go along with the theme. we both like business she wanted. Then couldn’t find exactly said Carpenter. “And one day she found what things. The Karovan endeavors that allow us to do that piqued her something on Pinterest all those interest. “Some Bar seemed like all those bases!” folks in Australia the ideal business a mobile bar from had made to cover a small vintage camper and I thought It’s not unusual, would be perfect!” Carpenter explained, that cousins to do a for either of the Evans began researching pop-up party on the campers and learned hospitality.’ It’s vintage ones often not the fancy dress fly. “We call it ‘scruffy that the don’t hold up to or the perfectly that people remember. being transformed a bar. “The shell cleaned home might into she likes to remember It’s the feet under the table.” inside,” she explained. collapse if there isn’t proper Evans said support each event where So she found someone writing the date friends are gathered camper shell for to fabricate a on the cork of her that would by the wine they drank, the people who be ideally suited interior she envisioned. were along with for the type of values when it comes present. “We both have the same Sharing the idea set of to family and friends with her cousin Evans said. her good friend), (who also happens and entertaining,” Leslie Carpenter, to be the two decided With a background to invest in catering and Carpenter has a good understandin writing a cookbook, g of the business • 33 34 • AUGUST/SEPTEMBER end of SSIPPI 2016
W
nter Leslie CarpeEvans and Karey from to serve drinks an Bar The Karov oers. partyg happy
eat. drink.
MISSI
The Karovan Bar. Evans brings a strong marketing through her business background “When I’m in here different strengths with corporate gift baskets. “We each when it comes to Evans. “I love being during a party, I’m in the zone,” said Evans. running and promotinghave laughed in here, because it,” party and I can I’m in the middle Carpenter credits see everyone. I’m in a place surrounded of the people who are Karovan Bar. “She Evans with being the brainchild having fun, which by of The did makes this a very for me.” “It’s all custom-made all the research and had it manufactured happy place ,” said Evans. “Frank . Christened at Evans’ maker and wood Wells, a furniture worker from Crystal son’s reception in Jackson, The interior.” behind The Cedars Springs, built out Karovan Bar was the very well received. been a hit at local The shape of The It has weddings, sorority Karovan Bar is and corporate events. parties, birthday “We could have parties, gone with the canned the classic toaster shape. It’s not limited sold herbs and to serving drinks. Evans, “but there ham shape,” laughed topiaries out of “We’ve wouldn’t have been it,” Carpenter said. Thursday evening inside.” With its At a recent farmers market sophisticated vintage enough room for us at Livingston, the candy and specialty turns heads, but look, The Karovan duo sold sodas. “We served it’s what’s inside Bar soccer team party, that ensures it is pizza and cokes Solid oak countertops functional. too.” for a provide plenty of “It’s definitely catching serving cocktails. room for mixing There’s a small and on,” Evans said. options. We can sink and a space designed for a large “There are so many decorate specially ice have a coffee machine it with banners and party sides through windows chest. Drinks can be served lights. We from three and juicer for breakfast, that pop open sorts of of The Karovan and we have all Bar, and windows to the outside on one side includingprops that can be rented along with The Karovan that fold open on “We kept it plain several sets of vintage on purpose,” said the Bar, glasses and barware. Carpenter have Evans of the classic other. a list Evans and style. The Karovan Bar of bartenders available, or those renting can use their own. edm eat. drink. MISSISSIP
PI • 35
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI J.J. Carney Publisher/Editor John Carney Executive Editor Anne Morgan Carney Executive Assistant Lisa Carmichael Wendi O'Neill Advertising Executives Joe Luca Newsstand Sales Consultant
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{contributors}
JULIAN BRUNT is a food and culture writer from the Gulf Coast whose roots run more than three hundred years deep in Southern soil. He is deeply concerned with culinary and cultural traditions and thinks no man worth his salt that cannot hold forth in tall tale and willingly endure the heat of the kitchen. LISA LAFONTAINE BYNUM is a freelance writer from Grenada. Her work has appeared in several publications in Mississippi. She is a graduate of Delta State University where she received a BA in Marketing and her MBA. In her free time, she enjoys food writing and photography. She currently resides in Brandon. Photo by Alisa Chapman Photography JO ALICE DARDEN is a book editor and freelance writer. A former lifestyles editor for the Greenwood Commonwealth, she is a regular contributor to its quarterly publication, Leflore Illustrated. She grew up in Greenwood, graduated from Delta State University with a major in English, and now lives in Cruger with her husband Bob, also a writer, on his family’s farm. SUSAN MARQUEZ lives and writes in Madison. She has a degree in Radio-TV-Film from the University of Southern Mississippi and had a long career in advertising and marketing before stumbling into a freelance writing career in 2001. Hundreds of published articles later, Marquez still loves to tell the stories of the interesting people, places, and events throughout the South.
12 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017
KATHY K. MARTIN is an Ole Miss journalism graduate who currently lives in Collierville, Tennessee with her husband and two children. She works as a freelance writer and chairs her church’s Christian writers group. ELODIE PRITCHARTT is a freelance writer and photographer in Natchez.
GENNIE TAYLOR, a native of Forest, is a technical writer for CACI, Inc. in Fayetteville, N.C. and a freelance writer, graphic designer, and photographer. She previously served as the publications coordinator at East Central Community College in Decatur. She is the former editor of The Demopolis Times in Demopolis, Ala. and former managing editor of The Scott County Times in Forest. A graduate of the University of Southern Mississippi with a Bachelor’s Degree in Journalism, she has received numerous awards from the Associated Press and the Mississippi and Alabama Press Associations. She and her husband, Steven, have one daughter, Mallory. In her free time, she enjoys traveling, reading and cooking. JANETTE TIBBETTS is a ninth generation Mississippian. She grew up on a Jones County dairy farm, attended Millsaps, taught school, and was a merchant. She is the founder and curator of “The Sandbank,” a Beatrix Potter Collection, at USM. She is a freelance writer and photographer. Janette writes weekly garden and food columns for magazines and newspapers. She was awarded a writer’s grant from the Mississippi Art’s Commission and the National Endowment of the Arts. She lives with her husband, Jon, and writes in their home near Hattiesburg. A published author of short stories, she is presently completing a novel.
KELSEY WELLS LAMBERT is a news writer at Lawrence County Press in Monticello. She is a graduate of Southwest Mississippi Community College where she served as editor of The Pine Burr. She earned her Bachelor’s degree in Communications at William Carey University and served as a staff writer and life editor of The Cobbler student newspaper until she became managing editor her senior year. She and her husband currently reside in the Divide community where she is active in her church and community. KATIE HUTSON WEST is a freelance writer from Tupelo. She is a graduate of Mississippi State University where she earned a B.S. degree in Marketing, Communications, and Business Psychology. An avid traveler, when home she resides in Leland. MEGAN WOLFE is a freelance writer and photojournalist from San Francisco. Her work can regularly be found in the Collierville Herald, The South Reporter, and other mid-South publications. She is currently based in Holly Springs, where she spends her free time creating multimedia projects to promote community events and the local arts.
w o N e t o V
The Mississippi’s Best Burger contest aims to find the single best BEEF hamburger served in a Mississippi restaurant. Help us out by eating and voting for a great tasting burger from your favorite restaurant in the state. Go online by January 9, 2017 to nominate the best beef burger. One $50 gift certificate will be awarded to a voter at each of the top 10 restaurants. Vote for your favorite burger online at:
www.msbeef.org Scan the QR Code to Vote with Your Smartphone
Sponsored by Mississippi’s Beef Producers through the Beef Checkoff Program
To learn more about BEEF and the Best Burger Contest contact: Mississippi Beef Council • 680 Monroe St. Suite A • Jackson, MS 39202 (601) 353-4520 • www.msbeef.org
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 13
{ what's hot }
Simple & Satisfying
Cauliflower doesn’t have to be bland and boring. Elevate it to new heights by roasting in the oven to bring out its sweet side. Roasted cauliflower pairs well with naturally sweet seafood such as lobster and scallops. We’re sure this will become your go-to winter side dish.
Roasted Cauliflower Steaks By Lisa LaFontaine Bynum
, One cauliflower head 1/2 cup olive oil 3 cloves garlic, minced 1/2 teaspoon Italian seasoning 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme Salt and fresh cracked pepper Red pepper flakes Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Remove leaves from the cauliflower. Leave the core 14 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017
intact. Place the cauliflower, core side down, on a cutting board. Using a large sharp knife, slice cauliflower into four steaks about 1/2-inch thick. Arrange the cauliflower steaks on an oiled baking sheet. Combine the olive oil, garlic, Italian seasoning, and dried thyme. Liberally spread the oil mixture over both sides of the steaks. Season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with red pepper flakes. Bake for 15-20 minutes until the cauliflower steaks are tender and starting to brown in places.
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{ fabulous foodie finds }
Cookies for Santa Make Santa’s night extra special with these great ideas. We’ve found the perfect tools for baking your own cookies; or, if you’d rather take it easy on Christmas Eve, we’ve found some delicious ready-made cookies Santa will love.
Sugar Cookies with Buttercream Icing, $1.75 & up The Cakery, Oxford
Personalized Milk for Santa Bottle, $15.43 Etsy
Cookies for Santa Plate, $64.00 Etta B Pottery 16 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017
Tovolo Ginger Girls and Boys Cookie Cutter Sets, $15.00 each The Everyday Gourmet, Ridgeland
OXO Good Grips Large Cookie Scoop, $14.99 Bed Bath and Beyond
Silpat Perfect Cookie Baking Mat, $24.99 The Kitchen Table, Hattiesburg
Nam’s Bits Chocolate Chip Cookies, $11.00 Brock’s, Jackson Christmas Rainbow Cookies, 80¢ each Anderson’s Bakery, Pascagoula see page 80 for store information eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 17
{ chef's corner }
Share the Passion of Cooking and Making Memories
I
story and food styling by chef mary helen hawkins | photography by chris jenkins
have had a passion for food and cooking since I was a child. I grew up watching my mother prepare wonderful holiday meals filled with incredible desserts and festive cakes. As a child, it almost seemed magical to see the ingredients transformed into works of art that could be eaten. I would watch every movement my mom’s hands made for hours and then beg my mother to let me give it a try. When I think of Christmas, it brings such joy to my heart and my stomach. It’s the one time a year that we all come together and make every cake, candy, and cookie imaginable. My daughter, Mallory, started a family tradition when she was very young of baking sugar cookies and making hot chocolate topped with Chantilly cream and her favorite topping – sprinkles, of course! Chantilly cream is simply a sweetened whipped cream with vanilla added to it. If you have never made fresh whipped cream, I encourage you to try it and let me know what you think. It is so good you will never reach for a spray can again. Since 2008, I have had the honor of combining my two great loves of food and teaching. It all began in the Mississippi Delta as an instructor at The Viking Cooking School in Greenwood, which led to instructing classes at Thyme in Starkville. From there I assisted with the Lion Hills Culinary Arts program at East Mississippi Community College and then returned to my alma mater at The Culinary Arts Institute located on the Mississippi University for Women Campus, The W, in Columbus. I have had the pleasure of teaching thousands of students of all ages and from all walks of life. Some were focused on higher education in the culinary field and some were there just for the pure joy of gaining more knowledge for cooking at home. Through my journey, I’ve been extremely blessed to meet and get to know some of the most talented people within the culinary world. The most impressionable memories for me were, surprisingly, working right here from the Golden Triangle area all the way to the Mississippi Delta. I have been provided the opportunity to work with MasterChef winner Whitney Miller, Gordon Ramsey from Hotel Hell 2, and Linkie Marais from The Next Food Network Star. I’ve also instructed numerous classes with the cast and crew of the movie The Help. Who knew my childhood fascination would reveal itself to me later in life as a passion for food and teaching? I am so happy that I not only have the opportunity to share and teach everything from planning, techniques, and preparation to serving and entertaining for future chefs, but also offer classes to the public for what may become a lasting family tradition. As my daughter so often says during our times 18 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017
Chef Mary Helen Hawkins together, “Mom, we are making a memory.” So, spoil Santa and your family this holiday season with Santa’s sugar cookies and Belgium hot chocolate with Chantilly cream on Christmas Eve to make your forever memories. edm Born in Columbus, Chef Mary Helen Hawkins was inspired by her mother, an at-home cook, and her Italian uncle who was a chef. Hawkins was fascinated by Italian cuisine and baking. She is classically trained in French techniques and holds a Bachelor of Science from Mississippi University for Women and a Master of Science from Mississippi State University. Hawkins began working in the food industry while still in high school and is currently a chef instructor and certificate program coordinator for the Culinary Arts Institute located on the Mississippi University for Women Campus. For more information about cooking classes, email Chef Mary Helen Hawkins at mhhawkins@muw.edu.
Santa’s Sugar Cookies 1 cup butter, room temperature (do not use margarine) 1 cup granulated sugar 1 large egg, room temperature 1 teaspoon vanilla bean paste or vanilla extract 3 cups all-purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon fine salt Powdered sugar Icing, optional Fondant, optional Sprinkles, optional Cream butter and sugar in a mixer until light and fluffy. Add egg and vanilla bean paste. Mix flour, baking powder, and salt in a bowl and add to the butter mixture. Mix well. Cover and chill dough for 1 to 2 hours. Preheat oven to 350 degrees before baking cookies. Cover baking sheet with parchment paper or Silpat mat to prevent cookies from spreading. On a clean surface dusted with powdered sugar, roll dough to approximately 1/8” thick. Dust cookie cutters with powdered sugar and use to cut dough into shapes. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes or until just until the cookies begin to turn brown around the edges. Place cookies on a cooling rack to cool. Decorate cooled cookies with icing and fondant, if desired. Yield: 2 dozen cookies (depending on size of cookie cutter)
Belgium Hot Chocolate with Chantilly Cream For the Hot Chocolate: 2 cups half-and-half 8.8 ounces Belgium milk chocolate, broken into small pieces 1/4 teaspoon vanilla bean paste or vanilla extract, or to taste Chantilly Cream, to taste Sprinkles Heat half-and-half in a sauce pan. Add chocolate pieces ,stirring with a whisk until melted and smooth. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla bean paste. Thin with milk, if necessary. Serve hot chocolate in mugs with freshly whipped Chantilly cream and sprinkles. Serves 4 For the Chantilly Cream: 1 cup heavy cream, cold 1/4 cup powdered sugar, sifted or to taste 2 teaspoons vanilla bean paste or vanilla extract, or to taste In a mixer with a wire whisk attachment, beat heavy cream, powdered sugar, and vanilla bean paste until soft peaks form for dollops. Beat mixture longer if you are planning to pipe the mixture. Dollop or pipe on top of the hot chocolate immediately or store in the refrigerator. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 19
DEEP SOUTH DISH Food. Family. Memories.
Eggplant Is Surprisingly Delicious When Paired with Seafood BY MARY FOREMAN
M Mary Foreman, a native of Biloxi, is the author of the popular website deepsouthdish.com, where she shares her favorite, homespun, mostly from scratch and, very often, heirloom and heritage, Southern recipes. She is also author of her first cookbook, Deep South Dish: Homestyle Southern Recipes.
20 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017
y mama did not cook eggplant in any form, that I can recall, so this seafood and eggplant dressing wasn’t a dish that ever made it to the table at our house. It was, however, a very common dish at my former mother-in-law’s house and, in fact, is where I tasted eggplant for the first time. I will always remember my first experience having dinner at Mr. Tommy and Mrs. Ursula’s house because, you see, they had seven boys and not a single daughter. All the way up to grace, things were calm and quiet, and all the boys were well-mannered and polite, but at amen all bets were off. There was such activity with arms slinging, dishes passing, hands flying, and people talking and laughing all at once. Little ol’ me, coming from a small family of three very quiet children(two girls and only one boy who was seven years younger than me), well, I had never experienced such a thing. I got used to it very quickly, though, which led to many memorable meals around that very large family table. That group was truly the embodiment of old Biloxi, and a family deeply rooted in faith and in love, not only for each other, but for everyone. I am still close with them all. I was both intrigued and surprised to learn that one of the dishes I had enjoyed that first meal, and many more times after, was a dressing made with an eggplant base. I had no idea what I was eating, but knew that it was different and delicious. When I later asked and learned it was eggplant, I was stunned. Having never consumed eggplant before, I guess I didn’t know what to expect. Because eggplant is fairly neutral, it mostly takes on the flavor of whatever it is paired with – in this case, seafood. This dish is sometimes referred to as a casserole because it regularly shows up as a menu side dish here in the Deep South, usually on Sunday, and likely along with a nice roast. With shrimp, crab, and eggplant, it seems pretty fitting as a casserole to me, too. You can also make it with just shrimp, though I personally love the combination of the crab and shrimp. Unlike me, my husband is not a big fan of vegetables and would never knowingly touch an eggplant, but this he gobbles up. I just tell him it’s a seafood casserole and leave it at that. “This is delicious,” he proclaims! He thinks it tastes like stuffed crab. Don’t be afraid of the list of ingredients, as it’s mostly typical dressing ingredients and seasonings and comes together easily. edm
Seafood and Eggplant Dressing From the Kitchen of Deep South Dish
1 large eggplant, peeled and chopped (about 5 cups) 2 slices bacon, cooked crisp 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1/2 cup chopped onion 1/4 cup each chopped green bell pepper and celery 1 tablespoon minced garlic 1 green onion, sliced 1/2pound medium shrimp, cleaned and deveined Kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste 1/2 teaspoon each dried basil, sage, and crushed rosemary 1 teaspoon of Creole/Cajun seasoning, or to taste, optional 5 slices of white or wheat bread 1 large egg, beaten 1/2 pound of crabmeat 1/4 cup of Parmesan cheese, divided For the Topping: 1 cup panko bread crumbs 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 1/2 tablespoon dried parsley Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 2-quart baking dish; set aside. Cook bacon in a skillet until crisp, reserving the bacon drippings. Drain bacon on paper towel and set aside to crumble and use as garnish. Meanwhile, add chopped eggplant to large pot with enough fresh water to cover; bring to a boil. Reduce heat
and simmer on low for about 15 minutes, or until tender. Use a slotted spoon to remove eggplant to a colander to drain, but reserve the cooking water, setting it aside to cool. To the bacon drippings, add butter and sauté onion, bell pepper, and celery until softened. Add the garlic and green onion and cook another minute. Dip bread into the cooled eggplant water until thoroughly wet; place it into a colander to drain and let rest. Chop the shrimp; add to the vegetables and cook for about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and add the salt, pepper, basil, sage, rosemary, and Cajun seasoning. Squeeze excess water from bread, mash and add to the skillet along with the eggplant, stirring it in well. Taste and adjust seasonings. Add beaten egg and half of the Parmesan cheese. Stir well. Add the crabmeat and gently toss; transferring to prepared baking dish. Mix topping ingredients with remaining Parmesan cheese and sprinkle evenly over the top of the casserole. Bake uncovered at 350 degrees for 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until thoroughly heated through. Remove and garnish with bacon before serving. Cook’s Notes: Double for a 9 x 13-inch casserole dish. Tip: To easily pick out any shells from the crabmeat, use a handheld blacklight device or spread crab on a baking sheet in a single layer and place in a 200 degree oven for 3 minutes. The shell will become visible and easier to pick out. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 21
Yuletide Yummies by lisa lafontaine bynum
Edible holiday gifts are the perfect option for teachers, coworkers, that person on your list who has everything, or just to let someone know you are thinking of them. These treats not only satisfy a sweet tooth, but they are fun to make. Get the kids involved and create a few memories while you’re making gifts. 22 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017
Hot Cocoa Ornaments eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 23
Edible Reindeer Food
24 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 25
Rolo Reindeer
26 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017
Holiday Chow
Edible Reindeer Food Makes about 9 cups
Rolo Reindeer The kids will have a blast making these! Makes 20 reindeer 40 small pretzel twists, divided 20 Rolo candies 40 candy eyes* 20 small round chocolate shell candies Preheat the oven to 250 degrees. Place 20 of the pretzels on a baking sheet lined with parchment or foil. Top each pretzel with a Rolo candy. Carefully cut the remaining pretzels in half to form antlers. Some will break, just make sure you have extras. Place the baking sheet with the pretzels and Rolos in the oven and bake 3 minutes, or until the candies are softened. Remove the baking sheet from the oven. Gently add two candy eyes and a red candy for the nose. Insert a halved pretzel piece into each side of the Rolo to form antlers. Be sure to work quickly before the chocolate cools and hardens. Allow the reindeer to cool completely before serving. *Candy eyes can usually be found near the baking supplies.
Holiday Chow Makes about 9 cups 9 cups Corn Chex cereal, divided 1 (12 ounce) bag red candy melts 1 (12 ounce) bag green candy melts 2 cups powdered sugar, divided Melt candy melts in two separate saucepans over medium heat, stirring often. Once melted, pour the red melted candy on half of the cereal. Stir to combine. Repeat with the melted green candy and the other half of the cereal. Divide the powdered sugar between two resealable plastic bags. Pour the red cereal into one bag, seal, and shake to coat. Repeat with the green half. Spread the chow onto foil or waxed paper to cool. Store in an airtight container.
1 (16 ounce) box Golden Grahams Cereal 1 (11.5 ounce) bag semi-sweet chocolate chips 1 (10 ounce) bag mini marshmallows 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 3/4 cup light corn syrup 1/2 cup red chocolate shell candies (like M&M’s) Empty the cereal in a large mixing bowl and set aside. In a medium sauce pan, combine the corn syrup, butter, and chocolate chips. Bring to a boil on medium heat, stirring often. Remove from the heat and pour the chocolate mixture over the cereal. Add the marshmallows. Stir until the cereal is mostly coated with the chocolate and the marshmallows begin to melt. Allow mixture to cool. Break into bite-sized pieces. Add M&M’s. For the reindeer, you will need: Brown construction paper Red construction paper Jumbo google eyes Brown pipe cleaners Jar lids and bands Cut strips of brown construction paper into 3” x 12” strips. Wrap and secure each strip around a pint mason jar. Affix with tape or glue stick. For the nose, cut out red circles measuring about 1-1/4 inches from a sheet of red construction paper. Affix two google eyes and one red nose to the front of each mason jar. Crimp both ends of a pipe cleaner to look like deer antlers. Leave about a 2 -1/2-inch gap between the crimped parts. Place the gap over the jar opening. Carefully top with a lid and a band.
Hot Cocoa Ornaments 1 clear clean plastic fillable food safe ornament 1 single serving package instant hot chocolate mix Red and green sprinkles Mini marshmallow bits Tag or note on how to make the hot chocolate Remove the top from the plastic ornament. Gently layer the hot cocoa mix, sprinkles, and marshmallow bits (this is easier and less mess with a funnel). Replace the top on the ornament. Store the ornament in an upright position to prevent the layers from mixing. Tie a note to the ornament with instructions on how to prepare the contents inside (mix with 8 ounces hot water). eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 27
{ mississippi made }
Memorializing MeMaw
One Cheese Straw at a Time
28 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017
M
By Gennie Taylor
eMaw’s Cheese Straws began in 2008 when family City that sold gourmet foods, and they encouraged her to start and friends who had tasted the crispy, crunchy simple and market some in their shops during the Christmas delicacy that MeMaw had prepared for many holidays the next year. showers, wedding receptions, and parties and knew that hers “I went to work and had to really burn the midnight oil were the best, encouraged Angie Edgar to begin selling her to keep just two gift shops supplied,” Edgar said. “When the specialty. “The business began sales during the Christmas holidays ended, customers were still asking for them so I was holidays that year, and we haven’t looked back since that time,” inspired to keep cooking. This was my first sign that God was Edgar, a retired Business Education and Computer teacher opening a new door in my life. from Manchester Academy in Yazoo City, said. “One of my customers from my first Christmas sales was The company was named for Edgar’s mother, Velma Mrs. Betty Kilgore from Bolton. She sold beautiful jewelry and H. Hearst, from Benton. She was called “MeMaw” by her asked me to share a booth with her at the Mississippi Market grandchildren. wholesale show in June of 2008. Nervously I accepted, but I “The name ‘MeMaw’s Cheese Straws’ was an answer to prayed day and night about this decision and remember feeling prayer, and God immediately put us to work and opened doors so ill the first morning of the market. I finally just said, “OK, and windows to introducing everyone to what MeMaw had God, I’m going to do this, but if I don’t write any orders it will always prepared be ok.” I wrote as an act of 23 orders in love,” Edgar that two-day said. “We lost show and cried our mother, all the way grandmother, home knowing and friend in that God was 2010; however, with me as He she lives on had opened the every day in this door.” business. They Edgar are prepared in said her first small batches year was a with that zesty really busy little kick at the year-cooking, end—just the packaging, way MeMaw filling orders, made them.” shipping and Edgar said delivering—all her mother by herself was the best while teaching cook she’s ever school full Angie Edgar, far left, recently met First Lady Deborah Bryant at a local known. time, taking craft show. Edgar was accompanied by her daughter, Emily Edgar “For as care of her Vick, and granddaughter, Mollie Vick. long as I can family, and remember, my spending mama made time with her cheese straws at Christmas, for church socials, baby and mother. wedding showers, parties, and receptions, Edgar said. “I began Edgar said the year 2010 was especially hard with her to prepare her cheese straws when the process of squeezing mother being in and out of the hospital. She said she knew them out by hand became hard for her to do. I prepared them that the end was near. for lots of occasions, as well as gifts to teachers, friends, and “On October 19th of that year I said goodbye to her, but I family. The response to my Mama’s recipe kept coming back knew she was telling me to get busy cooking MeMaw’s Cheese the same: ‘Angie, you need to market her cheese straws.’” Straws because the holidays were coming,” Edgar said. In December of 2006, “MeMaw” suffered a major stroke. MeMaw’s Cheese Straw products are unique because her “The neurologists said she only had a few days to live, but mother’s original recipes are used and just multiplied many I knew deep down that she was going to prove them wrong,” times, Edgar said. Edgar said. “She lived four more years in the Martha Coker “They are special because we don’t mass produce but Nursing Home in Yazoo City that just happened to be located instead produce in small batches so that they taste like they next to my work. I spent the majority of my free time with were just baked,” she explained. Mama at the nursing home and continued to make her recipe.” MeMaw’s Cheese Straws currently produce three products: Edgar said two of her friends owned gift shops in Yazoo MeMaw’s Cheese Straws, MeMaw’s But’r Sug’rs (a small butter eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 29
Mollie Vick sugar cookie), and Traditional Trash mix. MeMaw’s Cheese Straws are sold in approximately 60 stores throughout Mississippi and around the South. “We also can be found at many of the markets in Mississippi especially during the holiday season,” Edgar said. “At markets we sample our products, and we have heard people say they love to dip them in some of the flavored jellies,” Edgar said about paring her product. “They say they’re perfect with a glass of wine, sweet tea, Diet Coke, Coke, beer, etc. They’re a hot item for tailgating, Christmas parties, receptions, and just about any time. My favorite customers are my grandchildren (even the 2 year olds) who walk in my house asking for cheese straws (free, of course)” Edgar said her business has grown tremendously in eight years. “It started with two local gift shops at Christmas time and now supplies approximately 60 retail stores, attends many markets throughout the year, and is located in several vendor markets in Mississippi,” she said. “It went from a part-time hobby away from a full-time teaching position to a full-time business after retirement from teaching.” Edgar said the designing part of her business comes with the packaging of MeMaw’s Cheese Straw products. 30 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017
“I think it’s very important for a great product to be packaged attractively, so I change it seasonally which requires time and thought,” Edgar said. “We continually hear that people love our packaging, and that makes it all worthwhile.” In addition, all MeMaw’s Cheese Straws labels have the company’s theme Bible verse on them: “Every good and perfect gift is from above. . . ” James 1:17, Edgar said. “I had always felt that my mom was such a special gift to me from God, and I just wanted everything about this business to be my gift back to her and to God,” Edgar said. “As I said before, while she was living I never really knew if she understood what I was doing to honor her, but now I know that she does.” Edgar said she loves her time spent in MeMaw’s Cheese Straws’ kitchen where she is her “own boss.” “When I’m cooking alone, I talk to myself and my mother a lot, but I really feel her presence with me all the time,” Edgar said. edm MeMaw’s Cheese Straws 900 Edgar Rd., Yazoo City 662.571.6805 www.memawscheesestraws.com
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{ memory lane }
Collard Greens Bring Favorite Taste and Traditional Color to Southern Christmas Table by janette tibbetts
I
A PERFECT STAND ’ve known George and Jeanette Collins and their sons for over fifty years. George was employed in industrial wood manufacturing and Jeanette was a social worker; however,they returned each evening to their beautiful home in rural Jasper County. Because we were long-time family friends, I was aware of the depth of George’s farming knowledge and the reverence with which he treasured the fruits of their labor. I admired Jeanette’s ability to cook any plant George could grow and the animals he raised or successfully hunted as well as the fish he caught from Tallahala Creek. It was Jeanette who taught me that, because collards did not sweeten until after the first freeze, placing leaves in the freezer until ice crystals began to form would sweeten them. We have sons the same age who started school together and we were members of the same church, Heidelberg Presbyterian, where George Sr. is still a deacon. One Christmas he was our willing prop assistant during the church’s presentation of the street-side live nativity scene. The props he housed and cared for were sheep loaned to us by a Jackson physician. They were from a special exhibit flock that had been trained to follow shepherds. The Collins’ farm appeared the perfect place for the adorable ewes and lambs with fleece and, it seemed, hearts as white as snow. For over a week all went well on the Collins’ farm as George shepherded and patiently loaded the sheep onto his trailer and delivered them to the church. Each night, on cue, the sheep humbly followed the young boys dressed as shepherds and carrying crooks to center stage and gathered around the manger where they appeared angelic while the choir sang all stanzas of “O Holy Night.” After the final presentation, we entertained the choir and the young people and children playing shepherds, kings, angels, Mary and Joseph as well as their parents and the supporting crew with a cast party. Although a sprinkling rain had turned into fine sleet as the season’s first cold spell was arriving, we banked the fireplaces with hickory logs which added warmth to our home while the aroma increased our Yuletide Spirit. We celebrated the successful run with freshly baked ham and smoked turkey sandwiches, salads, cakes, and cookies while George, our real shepherd, returned the sheep to the warmth of his cozy barn before joining the party. The sheep celebrated by breaking out and entering George’s garden and consuming his perfect stand of collards.
32 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017
George felt robbed and I felt betrayed by the darker side of our woolly cast members. COLLARD GREENS Collards bring the taste of a long-time Southern favorite as well as the traditional rich-green hue to Christmas tables. Served on fine china with baked ham, mashed potatoes, candied potatoes, and crackling cornbread, these depressionera staples are as impressive and festive today as they have always been delicious. Through the 1960s, many Mississippi farmers pulled corn from their fields, shelled it, and had the grain ground into meal. They lifted onions and garlic buds and hung them by their tops to dry in open-air sheds. When cooler rains arrived, bringing a break in the heat, they “set out” collard plants and multiplying onions. They fattened and butchered hogs, cooked out the cracklings, and smoked the sides and hams. They banked enough sweet potatoes in mounds composed of alternating layers of red clay and pine straw to last until spring. Irish potatoes had already been dug, cured beneath the shades of large oak trees, and stored in cellars where apples, pears, and pumpkins were later placed. While some folks outside the South may have perceived our parents and grandparents as being among the poor, we, the well-nourished recipients of their hard work and adequate planning, witnessed our mothers confidently relying on the same larders, pantries, smoke-houses, keeping-rooms, and winter gardens to prepare elaborate Christmas dinners as they did to cook our daily meals. edm
Collard greens 2 smoked ham-hocks 2 quarts hot water 4 bunches of fresh collards 1 tablespoon baking soda 1 tablespoon red cider vinegar 1 pinch of baking soda 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes Wash ham-hocks, place in stock pot, add 2 quarts hot water and boil on medium for 1 hour. (Cook’s note-The smoke and ham flavor is extracted from the ham-hocks.) Wash both sides of collards, one leaf at a time under running water. Dissolve tablespoon of baking soda in large pan of water and soak collards 10 minutes. Rinse well, spread in thin layer on large tray and place in freezer until ice crystals begin to form (approximately 30 minutes). Remove mature stems from large collard leaves. (I recall watching my grandmother sway in rhythm while holding a leaf in her left hand and striping it with her right. She methodically discarded the stems and stacked the leaves in a 1-inch pile which she rolled and cut in 1/4-inch strips. Although I may not have Grandmother’s rhythm,I have never been able to improve on her
method.) Add collards,vinegar, pinch of soda, and red pepper flakes to ham-hocks. Cook on low 1-1/2 to 2 hours. If pot-liquor becomes low, 1/2 cup of hot water may be added. Remove ham-hocks and bone. Discard bones, gristle, and skin. Strip, chop, and return meat to collards. Adjust seasoning and serve hot with crackling cornbread.
CANDIED SWEET POTATOES 6 sweet potatoes (select 6 to 8-inch long potatoes with similar circumference) 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 stick butter 1 cup light brown sugar 1/2 cup lite Karo corn syrup 1/4 cup honey 1/4 cup thin orange-skin rings 2 sticks cinnamon 3 whole cloves Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Wash potatoes and pat dry with paper towels. Rub with olive oil and blot excess. Spread on lined baking sheet. Bake 30 minutes. Cool and remove peeling. Slice potatoes 1 inch thick. Potatoes may be sliced
diagonally or circularly. (I slice these circularly to serve on a round platter.) In heavy cooker, heat Karo and honey on low. Add sugar, butter, cinnamon, and whole cloves. Constantly tend syrup. Gently move syrup in bottom of cooker with wide bottom-wooden spoon. Add orange strips to syrup. Place a single layer of sliced potatoes in syrup. Don’t crowd cooker. Leave room to turn and remove potatoes without damaging slices. Cook on low until syrup thickens and potatoes harden around the edges (approximately 20 minutes). Remove and proceed with second batch. Remove and discard cinnamon sticks and whole cloves. Place potatoes on platter. Garnish with candied orange peelings. Serve hot.
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 33
MASHED POTATOES 4 chicken breasts 1 small onion, sliced 1 tablespoon garlic salt Place chicken, onion, and salt in 2-quart cooking pot, cover with water, and cook on medium 1 hour. Remove and save chicken. Retain broth. 5 pounds of Irish (red) potatoes 2 tablespoons sea salt 2 sticks butter 1 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon black pepper 1 teaspoon parsley flakes Scrub and peel potatoes. Cut potatoes into 1-inch chunks. Place in cooking pot and cover with boiling 34 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017
chicken broth. Cook on medium heat until tender (approximate 30 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to rest in broth 10 minutes. Drain potatoes. Save broth, which makes a delicious potato and chicken soup. Add butter, pepper and salt to potatoes. Mash to desired texture. Adjust seasoning. Place in bowl and garnish with parsley flakes. Serve warm. Cook’s notes: Do not confuse mashed potatoes with creamed potatoes. A few pea-sized pieces of potatoes flavored with chicken broth is the enduring secret of this old remarkable dish.) Irish potatoes are sweeter and starchier than Russets. Starch, the white substance that collects on one’s hands and knife while peeling,is sugar. Some starch may be eliminated from potatoes by dissolving 2 tablespoons of sea salt in warm water and soaking the potatoes for 30 minutes. If potatoes are larger than a tennis ball, cut in half. Drain and rinse.
Spiral-Cut Ham Although I’ve been removed from the nearness of a backyard smokehouse for nearly 65 years, I conservatively estimate that I promoted, ordered, and sold over twothousand bone-in fully cooked Christmas hams produced by Bryan in West Point during our almost 20-year ownership of The Grocery Store in Heidelberg. However, during the last two decades, with a smaller family and less energy to burn off calories as well as to lift the heavier whole hams, I serve the 15-17 pound leaner buttportion of a fully-cooked and spiral-cut ham. 15-17 pound spiral-cut butt-portion ham 1/4 cup whole cloves Pre heat oven 250 degrees. Place ham, cut side down, in warming pan and heat for 10 minutes per pound (approximately 1-1/2 hours). Glazing ingredients are often attached to ham; however,I prefer my mother’s recipe. After slightly indenting and inserting whole cloves at the point where the lines cross on the uncut portion,I glaze the studded area.
Glazing Uncut Portion 1/2 cup brown sugar 1 teaspoon of ground cinnamon 1/4 cup honey 1/4 cup Karo corn syrup Place brown sugar, cinnamon, honey, and Karo in thick sauce pan and cook on low until syrup thickens. Apply glaze by starting at the most elevated point of the ham (glaze will drain down) and apply 1/3 of syrup. While warming ham, repeat application every 30 minutes.
SEASONING THE SLICED PORTION 2 tablespoons orange juice 1/2 cup orange marmalade Warm juice and marmalade in microwave. After ham is warmed and glazed, move to serving platter, place on side, and spread orange mixture between spiral-cut slices. Cover with aluminum foil and keep warm until time to serve. If slices become dry, moisten with drops of warm orange juice. Garnish with orange halves and candied fruit.
Cracklin’ Cornbread 1/3 cup canola oil 1-1/2 cups Sunflower self-rising corn meal 1/2 cup plain yellow corn meal 1/2 cup Sunflower self-rising flour 1 teaspoon garlic salt 2 cups buttermilk 1/2 teaspoon baking soda 1 egg 3/4 cup cracklings (broken into small pieces) Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Pour canola oil into 10-inch steel baker and place in oven. Sift meals, flour, and garlic salt together twice. Dissolve baking soda in buttermilk.
Slightly whip egg, add to buttermilk mixture and mix well. Pour mixture over dry ingredients and stir.(This will form a stiff batter.) Add cracklings to mixture and gently blend. Pour mixture in hot pan and bake 25-30 minutes or until brown. Spread butter across top and serve hot. Cook’s note: Shop for sealed and refrigerated cracklings. I select Hormel’s from Ramey’s in Collins. (Cracklings are cooked-out from the layer of fat stripped from pork bellies. At hog-killings during the last two century the fat which pops furiously was commonly cooked outside in a wash pot. After the lard is rendered, cracklings are the small remaining pieces.)
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 35
{community}
Fresh
from the
Farm
Local Food Hub Puts Premium Produce on Mississippians’ Plates story by Susan Marquez | photos courtesy of up in farms food hub
A
major initiative to change the economic reality of Mississippi, one tomato or cucumber at a time, is happening in the Capital City while removing barriers in order to create access to locally-grown food. That initiative began with Soul City Hospitality, formed in 2014 by a small group of entrepreneurs, restaurateurs, and chefs with a social mission to support farmers statewide, while creating jobs in both rural areas and in Jackson. The first business to emerge from the Soul City partnership is the Up in Farms Food Hub. One of the owners of Soul 36 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017
City is David Watkins, Jr., who is also the point person for Up in Farms. He has been working on the concept of providing farmers with the support and training necessary to deliver highquality product on time and at a sustainable price. In addition, the hub gathers produce from farmers within a 40-county area of central Mississippi at its warehouse in Jackson. “Two years ago we got a USDA grant, a local food programming promotional grant, and that gave us a little seed money to figure out what we were doing as a food hub. As we’ve gone along, we’ve slowly been figuring this business out.”
The food hub moved into its current facility, the Adams now grow crops with more certainty, knowing they will be able Brothers produce building on the grounds of the old Farmers to sell what they grow. That’s especially important for small Market on Woodrow Wilson Drive in Jackson. “It was built in and medium-sized specialty crop farmers.” The food hub has the 1940s” said Terry Sullivan, who serves as general manager been working with the USDA, helping farmers get access to the of the food hub. The building is owned by the State of funding they need. There is a great supply potential. Oomeone Mississippi and leased to the food hub. The building had been to buy products. deeded over to the University of Mississippi Medical Center One of the distribution areas that Up in Farms has and they had plans to tear it down. “Luckily for the food hub, developed is the small retail component. “It operates similar to the Mississippi State Department of Archives and History a Community Sustainable Agriculture (CSA) model in that fresh deemed it a historic building, so UMMC was thrilled when we produce is sold to members through a subscription process,” stepped in wanting to rent it. What we’re doing perfectly aligns said Sullivan. “We maxed out at 100 members in less than one with the mission of the medical center, which is to promote the week for our fall produce.” For six weeks, members can pick health of the community.” up a box of freshly-harvested produce. “What’s encouraging Sullivan said that is that several of the food hub has those customers 16,000 square feet of are sponsoring a leased space. “We are family in need. We operating out of a are working through portion of that while the Mississippi Food doing construction Network. They pick on the produce up the produce and processing area and deliver it to a local packaging house.” church for pick-up Sullivan explained by 35 local families.” that different crops “I’d rather see a require different few hundred 25-acre temperatures and farms than have a humidity levels, so handful of major separate areas must farms,” said Watkins. be constructed to “The job creation accommodate that. that can come out “We make sure all of this food hub incoming produce is will be a boon cleaned and sanitized across the state. and that it has the We are working on maximum shelf life developing a system Calvin Head of the Mileston Cooperative Association surveys a to meet food safety that will help the promising broccoli crop planted at Mileston through a Mississippi needs.” small farms. There is State University commercial trial with Dr. John Stanley, Sourcing One 1,200 so much work still to Manager at Up in Farms, and Dr. Bill Evans from MSU’s Truck square foot cooler do, many hours of Crops Branch Experiment Station. has already been research are needed restored. “It’s been to understand the fantastic,” said challenges the Sullivan. “It has allowed us to do a lot of things. The process farmers have, then finding the right ways to train them to of storing produce is much more complex than you might implement new procedures. These are the kinds of things we think. Some produce produces ethylene gas, which makes other are working to solve.” produce ripen faster. If someone places an order, we can speed Sullivan said that since its start in September of last year, the up the ripening process by putting the right produce together.” food hub has been in the pilot stage. “We have been operating The next step is to create additional spaces with different on a small scale, selling produce to 20 local grocery stores, temperature and humidity levels, as well as spaces for packing. restaurants and produce stands. We have learned what works Another area of construction in the facility will be a freshwell and what doesn’t, and we have made adjustments as we cut facility. “More and more restaurants and schools are taking go. This food hub is a great thing for Jackson. We work with knives out of their kitchens due to liability issues,” said Watkins. farmers, the USDA, and Mississippi State University, all to help “We can provide them with fresh-cut produce that they can farmers grow and sell more produce.” edm immediately incorporate into the dishes they are preparing.” Up in Farms Food Hub So far the food hub is operating smoothly. “We don’t 2245 N West St., Jackson currently have the infrastructure needed for farmers to move 601.502.5571 product,” explained Watkins. “We don’t have a coordinated www.upinfarms.com. marketplace in the state. But with the food hub, farmers can eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 37
Tis the Season for...
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GIVING T
he holiday season is upon us. For most, that means a shift in schedules and priorities during the weeks leading up to Christmas. For many people, one of those shifts is being more in tune with the needs of others, whether it is trying to find the perfect gift for that special person on your list or taking note of those who are less fortunate by giving a little extra. One way to help others is by getting involved in stocking local food banks. These organizations and their volunteers work hard all year to meet the needs of those who are not fortunate enough to have adequate food on a regular basis. The supplies required to provide these services seem to compound during the holidays and many people with generous hearts step up to the plate and make donations of food, money, or time to help with this very serious problem. There are some things that can make that investment in the lives of others more beneficial for all involved, from the types of donations that are made to the way in which they are handled. Our friends at Mississippi Food Network, the state’s top agency for food distribution to hungry Mississippians, has shared a few tips so your donation can have the most impact. edm
TIPS FOR DONATING TO FOOD CHARITIES
1
CONSIDER “NON-TRADITIONAL” ITEMS. Canned vegetables, fruits, and meats are staples of food donations, but it’s time to think outside the can. Peanut butter, boxed rice and potato products, and boxed macaroni and cheese are all shelf stable and easy to cook. Mississippi Food Network even recommends cake mixes and cans of icing to allow families to bake a holiday treat.
2
DONATE TIME, NOT GOODS. While food drives bring in much needed items, volunteers are always need to organize and package food for distribution. Consider taking a Saturday trip to a local food pantry or outreach center with your family, friends, or organization to help during the busy holiday season.
3
CONSIDER MONETARY DONATIONS. Instead of taking a trip to the store to tote heavy cartons to the car and then to the donation center, write a check or give a cash donation. Those who work with the center on a regular basis will be able to identify areas of critical need that your donation can assist with, and they can use the money economically to help as many people as possible.
4
IF YOU HOST A FOOD DRIVE, THINK SMART! Everyone wants to help others during the holiday season, but a few simple guidelines can enhance the return of your efforts. Announce and publicize the drive through available media outlets well in advance so that those who donate can be prepared financially and stock up on items as they go on sale. Make a goal and a time frame and stay dedicated to both. Inspire competition and offer incentives to encourage more donations.
5
ORGANIZE BEFORE YOU DROP OFF! Volunteers are in short supply and stay busy, especially during the holidays. Separate canned goods from boxes or packages before dropping of your donation. This makes volunteers’ jobs easier and allows them to more efficiently serve those in need. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 39
Chili Is Perfect Cold Weather Dish
F
or many people, winter is a time to huddle up indoors, where the harsh weather synonymous with the season can do us no harm. Food is often a friend during such times, as certain foods act like a warm blanket on an otherwise bone chilling day or night. Perhaps no food is more effective at warding off winter weather than chili. A bowl of chili can be the perfect remedy on a cold day, and the following recipe for Chicken and Black Bean Chili from Leslie Jonath and Frankie Frankeny’s Soup’s On! (Chronicle Books) is sure to please. edm
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Chicken and Black Bean Chili Serves 6 to 8 1/2 cup olive oil or vegetable oil, divided 11/2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut in 1-inch cubes 2 to 3 tablespoons chile powder 1 tablespoon cumin seeds 2 cups diced yellow onions 1 cup seeded, diced yellow onions 1 red bell pepper, diced 3 canned chipotle chiles in adobo sauce, minced 1/4 cup minced garlic (4 to 6 cloves) 1 can (14.5 ounces) black beans 1 can (15 ounces) diced tomatoes 2 ears corn, kernels cut from the cobs Salt Freshly ground black pepper 1 ripe avocado, halved, pitted and diced 1 cup cherry tomatoes, quartered 1/2 red onion, diced (about 1/2 cup) 1/2 bunch fresh cilantro, minced 1/2 cup freshly squeezed lime juice (about 4 limes)
2 jalapeño chiles, seeded and minced 1-1/2 teaspoons kosher salt 1/2 cup crumbled Mexican cotija cheese 1/2 cup grated mixed cheddar and monterey jack cheeses Heat 1/4 cup of the oil in a heavy-bottomed, 8-quart pot over medium heat. Add the chicken, chili powder and cumin seeds and saute until the chicken is cooked through, 4 to 6 minutes. Transfer the meat to a bowl and set aside. Return the pot to the heat, add the remaining 1/4 cup of oil, and cook the onions, poblanos, bell pepper, chipotles, and garlic, stirring frequently, until the onions start to brown. Stir in the beans with their liquid, tomatoes and corn and return the cooked chicken with all its juices. Turn the heat down to low and simmer, stirring every 5 minutes, until the chicken is cooked through and tender, about 25 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. In a large bowl, combine the avocado, tomatoes, onion, cilantro, lime juice, jalapeños, and salt. Set aside. To sever, ladle the chili into bowls and top with the salsa and cheeses. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 41
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c Baked Treats Worth the Effort
B
aked goods can take some time to prepare. But as many baking enthusiasts know, the results are well worth the effort. Such is the case with the following recipe for Pistachio Honey Rolls from Marguerite Marceau Henderson's Small Sweet Treats (Gibbs Smith). edm
Pistachio Honey Rolls
Makes 32 rolls
2 cups shelled pistachio nuts 1/2 cup sugar 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest 16 sheets phyllo dough, rolled out and kept covered with a damp towel 4 tablespoons butter, melted 1/2 cup honey, warmed
Place the nuts, sugar, cinnamon, and orange zest in a food processor and grind until nuts are finely chopped. Transfer to a bowl. Place a sheet of phyllo dough on a work surface. Keep the remaining sheets covered with a damp towel after each sheet is used. Brush the sheet of phyllo with butter, top with another sheet of phyllo and brush with more butter. Lightly spread the sheet of phyllo into four strips lengthwise. Roll up each strip, starting at the bottom, and place on a Silpat or parchment-lined baking sheet, seam-side down. Continue with remaining 14 sheets of phyllo and nut filling. Bake on the middle rack of a preheated 375 degree oven for 15 minutes. While still warm, drizzle with honey. Allow to cool completely before serving.
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 43
Simple Solutions for the Season
T
he air is getting cooler, leaves are changing colors and days are getting shorter. All of these seasonal changes signal that the holidays are fast approaching. While many people love gathering with family and friends at this time of the year, entertaining can take the jolly out of the holiday. This year, take the stress out of hosting with these simple holiday hacks. Buy in Bulk. Several weeks before your holiday gathering, buy nuts - almonds, pistachios, walnuts - in bulk. Pour the nuts into screw-top mason jars, label with brightly colored tape and store in your pantry. When guests stop by, bring out a few jars, unscrew and serve with seasonal cider. Candy Cane Lane. Candy cane flakes work wonders - from
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holiday drinks to topping off cakes and ice cream. Crush candy canes in a blender or smash between paper towels and store in an airtight container. Simply sprinkle for seasonal ease and festive yum. Double Duty. Buy flavorful refrigerated salad dressings think sriracha or ranch - and use to top salads or potatoes, or as a quick, delicious dip. One jar offers many solutions. Bee Smart. Be prepared for unexpected gift-giving moments and keep several simple and affordable gifts on hand. Pour local honey into mini mason jars, wrap the neck with holiday twine and include a message that works for all, “Have a BEEautiful Holiday.” edm
Rustic Pear Galette Serves: 4-6 Pie crust 3-4 medium pears, peeled, cored and cut into 1/4-inch slices 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 tablespoon cornstarch 1/4 cup brown sugar, packed 1/8 teaspoon cinnamon (optional) Glaze: 2 teaspoons honey 1/2 teaspoon boiled water Topping: Simply Artisan Reserve Feta Cheese Simple Seasons Heat oven to 425 degrees. Line 15-by-10-inch baking sheet with parchment paper; spray paper with cooking spray. On lightly floured surface, roll crust into 11-inch round. Drape crust over rolling pin, transfer to baking sheet. In large bowl, toss pear slices with lemon juice. Sprinkle in cornstarch, brown sugar and cinnamon. Toss until pears are evenly coated. Arrange pears in mound in center of dough, leaving 2-inch border. Fold border over filling to cover pears partially. It does not need to be even. Bake 15 minutes then reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees and bake additional 40 minutes until pears are tender and crust is golden brown. In small bowl, stir together honey and boiled water to make glaze. When galette is done, remove from oven and brush honey glaze over top of fruit and crust, and sprinkle liberally with feta cheese.
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 45
{ in the bloglight }
by kelsey wells lambert
L
ike many girls, Maggie Weir grew up helping her mother in the kitchen of their Mississippi home. In many ways, the kitchen was the main room of their Jackson home, sparking a passion for the creative and culinary in Weir. Her mother had formal culinary training, and she passed down to Weir classic recipes that were tried and true products of many generations of Mississippi cooks. While earning her marketing degree from Ole Miss, Weir created a magazine called Spice and designed a blog under the same name as a fun hobby and a way to add to her magazine. Following her mother’s footsteps, she went to culinary school after graduation from Ole Miss and continued to pour her time and passion into cooking. She now owns a decorated cookie business called Weir Delicious in Fairhope, Alabama, where she and her husband, Bowen, live. Blogging continues to be a major part of Weir’s life. Spice now operates under the name Mississippi Made and features weeknight meal recipes that may surprise some readers. At the first thought of the name Mississippi Made, visions of deep-fried, sugar-laden, highcalorie creations may fill your mind. While Weir admits that she loves these kinds of Southern recipes and includes some of them in her posts, she is also an avid runner and an advocate for healthy eating. “I feel my best cooking and eating ‘whole foods,’” she explained. Weir and her husband are expecting their first child in December, and her lifestyle and healthy eating have helped her stay active even with Bowen V’s appearance drawing closer. Many of her recipes are for dishes that are based around vegetables, and some are completely vegan. In addition to these weeknight meal recipes, she also includes excerpts from her everyday life, including adventures that she and her 46 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017
Maggie Weir family have shared and, more recently, exciting preparations she is making to be a mother. Readers of the blog will feel as if they have stepped into Weir’s kitchen to taste one of her healthy but delicious creations and catch up with an afternoon conversation. Weir loves the response she has experienced as more people discover Mississippi Made. “My favorite response is when people tell me their family’s new favorite recipe is something they tried from my blog,” she
gulf Shrimp & Blue Crab Linguine 1/4 cup sliced shallots 4 cloves garlic, minced 2 tablespoons olive oil 1-1/2 cups fresh chopped tomatoes 1-2 tablespoons fresh basil, chopped or torn 1/3 cup heavy cream 1/2 pound Gulf shrimp, peeled and deveined (and butterflied) Pinch of red pepper flakes 1/2 pound lump blue crabmeat, picked for shells 1 pound cooked linguine pasta 1/3 cup basil, chiffonade
1/3 cup fresh Parmesan (to top) Cracked pepper, to taste
said. As motherhood becomes a major part of her life, Weir sees her blog changing in some ways, but she remains dedicated to sharing her love for good food with others. She wants to begin incorporating mom-friendly recipes and even ideas for homemade baby food into her posts. Above all, Weir wants to serve the One Who created her
and gave her a passion for food, fitness and family. “I love the Lord and want my blog to glorify His name,” she said. To visit Weir’s blog, visit www.mississippi-made.com. Just like the author, these Magnolia State-inspired recipes with a healthy twist will bring a burst of fresh energy and enthusiasm to any Southern table. edm
In a large skillet, sauté shallots and garlic in olive oil until soft and fragrant. Add tomatoes and 1-2 tablespoons fresh chopped basil and simmer for a few minutes. Add cream and bring to boil until slightly thickened. Add shrimp and red pepper, simmer until shrimp turn pink. Turn off heat and add in blue crab, linguine, and chiffonade of basil. Serve with fresh Parmesan and cracked pepper. Serves 4
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 47
{ from mississippi to beyond }
Farmer’s Daughter Preserves Southern Flavors story By Kathy K. Martin | photography by Lissa Gotwals
A
pril McGreger may have moved to North Carolina, but she never forgot her years as a farmer’s daughter in Mississippi. Today she preserves those rural memories in her Farmer’s Daughter line of artisan jams, relishes, and fresh sauerkraut. From Strawberry Honeysuckle Jam and Bourbon ‘d Figs to Jalapeño Ginger Jam and Collard Kraut, her products are packed full of fresh, Southern flavors true to her farm-girl upbringing. Her brand stands out because of her old-fashioned approach to canning in small batches, while using no pectin, less sugar, and the freshest ingredients she can find. “My strawberries are picked, delivered, and made into jam on the same day; all from a farm just a mile or so down the road from my house.” McGreger learned how to can by working elbow-to-elbow
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alongside her mother and grandmother on their farm in Vardaman. Restaurants weren’t located in her hometown, not even fast food, says McGreger, so cooking at home was a way of life. “We cooked for fun, to celebrate, and to mourn.” She describes cooking as a family activity and since she was raised in the heart of sweet potato, cotton, and bean fields, her first job was working in the sweet potato fields and helping plant and tend her family’s big summer garden of peas, butterbeans, squash, cucumbers, okra, and corn. Her parents had a big pear tree and her grandparents had a fig tree, so summers were spent putting up food. They always grew and preserved enough to eat all year long, as well as enough to share with friends and neighbors, she says. McGreger moved to Chapel Hill, North Carolina in 2000 to earn her master’s degree in geology at the University of
April McGreger
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 49
North Carolina. She also met her husband there and stayed to work at restaurants there, including the James Beard awardwinning Lantern Restaurant for four years. As the pastry chef, she sourced all of her own fruit for the dessert menu and developed many friendships with local farmers. She also made connections through the Carrboro Farmer’s Market, which is near Chapel Hill, and discovered that the market had some of the best produce in the country. “The farmer’s market was one of the few places where I got a chance to interact with older people and people from a rural, agricultural background like my own. It became my community.” While she was impressed by the produce, she didn’t feel that the jams and pickles at the market were as well-prepared as those made by her family. “I couldn’t find anything that was as good as my grandmother’s green tomato pickles or my mother’s pear preserves.” As the long nights of restaurant work began to wear on her, she decided that she could honor her family and their work and skill by launching her Farmer’s Daughter business nine years ago. She creates both classic preserves and those with a modern twist. She cooks her preserves in small batches of only eight to 10 jars per pot and without the addition of pectin. “I thicken my preserves the old-fashioned way, through evaporation. The result is a vibrant, concentrated and fresh taste with twice the fruit and nearly half the sugar of supermarket brands.” She also sources over 90% of her produce from small farmers in North Carolina and she works hard to find sources that are not only high quality, but also free of pesticides. “My krauts and pickles are barrel-fermented like many of our grandmothers and great-grandmothers used to make.” For anyone who wants to start canning at home, McGreger suggests beginning with refrigerator pickles. “You can get into making pickles without having to tackle canning right away.” She also says that the canning process is much easier to learn from someone than from reading a book. When she thinks about her home state and its finest food, she instantly craves peas and cornbread with her greatgrandmother’s homemade tomato jam, as well as skillet-fried okra like her grandfather used to make. She also thinks of 50 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017
homemade peach ice cream, biscuits with pear preserves, and many sweet potato dishes such as sweet potato biscuits with country ham, sweet potato pie, and sweet potato casserole with a crunchy pecan topping. As McGreger builds her business, she is also writing a book about pickling and preserving and developing a new website to tell the stories of her products, which she sells via her web store and through farmer’s markets. “I hope to continue to use my position to encourage more people to grow and to seek out old varieties of heirloom fruits and vegetables,” she says. “Collect seeds and stories from your grandparents, take cuttings from that old apple or pear tree on your great aunt’s property. Recognize the beauty in your unique taste heritage and, in the words of Poppy Tooker, ‘Eat it to save it!’” edm www.farmersdaughterbrand.com
Sweet Potato Biscuits 5 cups sifted unbleached pastry flour or all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon baking powder 1⁄8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg 1 tablespoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest, packed 2 sticks very cold unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch pieces 1 cup cold buttermilk 1-1⁄2 cups cold mashed sweet potatoes 1 tablespoon sorghum molasses or brown sugar 2 tablespoons melted salted butter Preheat the oven to 500 degrees. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, nutmeg, salt, and lemon zest. Cut the butter into the flour mixture in a food processor, with a pastry blender, or with cold fingers until it is the size of corn kernels.
In a medium bowl, mix together the buttermilk, mashed sweet potatoes, and sorghum molasses or brown sugar. Stir the buttermilk mixture into the flour mixture to make a soft, slightly sticky dough. Be careful not to overwork the dough. Gather the dough on a floured surface and with floured hands press it out into a rectangle about 1-inch thick. Fold the dough in half, make a quarter turn, then press it out again. Repeat this process one more time, ending up with a rectangle a generous 3⁄4-inch thick. (This process of folding the dough creates beautiful flaky layers.) Flour a 3-inch biscuit cutter and cut out the biscuits, taking care not to twist as you cut. Use a bench scraper or spatula to transfer the biscuits to a baking sheet lined with parchment paper, leaving about 1 fingertip of space between them. Brush the tops with melted butter. Bake for 12–15 minutes or until deep golden brown. Check after 10 minutes and rotate the pan for even baking. Yield: About two dozen VARIATION: Sweet Potato– Cheddar Biscuits: Omit the nutmeg, lemon zest, and sorghum molasses. Reduce the unsalted butter to 1 stick. Add 1⁄2 teaspoon cayenne to the dry ingredients. Stir in 1 cup grated sharp cheddar after you cut the butter into the flour.
From SWEET POTATOES: a SAVOR THE SOUTH® cookbook by April McGreger. Copyright © 2014 by April McGreger. Used by permission of the publisher. www.uncpress.unc.edu eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 51
{ from the bookshelf }
On the Coast Mississippi Tales and Recipes
Authored by Troy Gilbert and Matthew Mayfield Illustrated by Billy Solitario | Published by Pelican Publishing by kelsey wells lambert
T
he history and stories of the Mississippi Gulf Coast create a colorful picture of this small but important piece of the United States. Its history is one of celebration. The people of the Gulf Coast are known for pulling out the “boiling pot” to cook up a feast to celebrate birthdays, weddings, graduations, or just any given Saturday. Their history is also one of resilience. Beaten and battered but not destroyed by hurricanes such as Camille and Katrina, Coastal residents understand the value of cherishing family, friends, and every moment. Three acquaintances with different talents – chef Matthew Mayfield, artist Billy Solitario, and writer Troy Gilbert – already had fond memories and deep connections to this sliver of Mississippi. Through their collaboration on the new cookbook On the Coast: Mississippi Tales and Recipes, they grew not only in friendship but also in a deep appreciation for the cuisine and culture of the Mississippi Gulf Coast. Stories and pictures of the coast intermingle with mouthwatering recipes and beautiful artwork to make this new volume a feast for the eyes. Explore the Gulf Islands, experience the excitement of sailing, learn the history of the Gulf Islands restoration, meet Biloxi’s Hurricane Hunters and a Chandeleur boat operator, and much more through the carefully crafted stories in the book. Flip through the pages of On the Coast and you won’t even have to read the recipes to be inspired by the realistic artwork that embodies so many aspects of this unique culture. Set sail on your culinary adventure and prepare tasty “Boat Snacks” such as Hurricane Hole Pimento Cheese or Atomic Pelican Beaks (a twist on traditional stuffed jalapeños). Preparing a full meal? Try Shrimp Bread or Grand Batture Hot Blue Crab Dip to start the meal with a Coastal flair. Oysters, referred to in this volume as “Rocks,” are a staple of Mississippi Gulf Coast Cuisine. Charbroil oysters by three different recipes included here, or make a Mignonette Dipping Sauce if you prefer your “Rocks” raw. The “Salads” chapter features both healthy and hearty options that incorporate seafood and spices with traditional 52 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017
salad ingredients. Taste the Cajun influences of Davis Bayou Shrimp and Okra Gumbo and experience a true Southern flavor with Turnip Green Soup from the “Soups, Bisques, and Gumbos” chapter. No meal is complete without the sides, and in On the Coast you can learn to create Pecan-Crusted Sweet Potato Pone, Vidalia Onion Pie, casseroles, and more to complement your main dishes. You can also find recipes for sauces to help enhance flavor. The star of this volume is the “Seafood” chapter, which overflows with tantalizing recipes from Smoked Mullet Po’Boys to Shrimp au Gratin Over Grits and John Roy’s Shrimp Creole. You can also glean ideas for dishes made with other meats, including those for venison, beef, and chicken. Top your choice of main dishes off with Cornmeal Pie with Amaretto Crème Fraiche, Meyer Lemon Icebox Pie, or another option from the “Desserts” chapter for a Southern evening sure to please. On the Coast also features a helpful measuring chart, a list of resources from art to live bait to make your visit to the Mississippi Gulf Coast easy and memorable, and a complete recipe index. The beautiful scenery will drawn you in and you’ll be inspired by the culinary creations that make the Coast a unique and exciting part of the United States. edm
garlic shrimp spaghetti Courtesy of Ms. Mendy Mayfield
1 pound spaghetti, uncooked 4 tablespoons butter 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 bunch green onions, white parts only, chopped 1 tablespoon garlic powder 2 teaspoons oregano 2 teaspoons red pepper flakes 2 teaspoons paprika 1 teaspoon thyme Salt and black pepper, to taste 1 head garlic, minced 1 tablespoon parsley, chopped 2 pounds jumbo (U16/20) fresh Mississippi shrimp, peeled and deveined 1/4 cup white wine 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Boil the spaghetti according to the package directions. Strain in a colander and set aside in a large bowl under aluminum foil or a kitchen towel to keep warm. In a large skillet over medium heat, add the butter and olive oil. When the butter is melted, add the green onions and stir. When the green onions become translucent, about 3 minutes, reduce the heat to medium low and add the garlic powder, oregano, red pepper, paprika, thyme, salt, pepper, and half of the minced garlic and stir. When the garlic becomes fragrant, about 30 seconds, increase the heat to medium and add the parsley, shrimp, white wine, and remaining minced garlic. Stir. Allow the shrimp to cook for no more than 3 minutes while periodically stirring. When the sauce is done, remove it from the heat and carefully pour over the spaghetti. Using tongs, mix the shrimp and garlic liquor thoroughly with the spaghetti. Serve immediately, dusted with the Parmesan, along with a green salad and crusty French bread.
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 53
{ raise your glass }
Winter White Cosmo Courtesy of Bonefish Grill
2 ounces of your favorite vodka 1/4 ounce Cointreau 1/2 ounce fresh lime juice/simple syrup mixture 1-1/2 ounces white cranberry juice 3 to 4 cranberries (floating as garnish) Combine ingredients over ice in shaker tin. Shake and strain into chilled martini glass. For a festive touch garnish with 3-4 floating cranberries.
Secrets to Shake it up
Toast the Season 54 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017
Make your own cranberry vodka infusion by placing cranberries in your favorite vodka and allow it to infuse for 48- 72 hours. For a stronger cosmo flavor, substitute your favorite citron flavored vodka. For a fun twist and a little bit sweeter flavor, use St. Germain Elderflower Liqueur in place of the Cointreau. Increase the volume of all ingredients by 10 and serve punch style. Freeze cranberries in a block of ice. Not only does it keep the punch chilled, but also looks fun and festive for your holiday party.
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The Crystal Grill Greenwood
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GRIT -
Taylor
The Hills The Delta -
NightingalWest e’s Point Pantry The Pines
- Moo’sNatchez Barn & Grill -
Capital/River
Our wonderful state is divided into five travel regions - The Hills, The Delta, The Pines, Capital/River, and Coastal. It is our goal to give equal coverage to all regions of the state in every issue. The following sections are color coded by region for your convenience. We hope you will take the time and travel to all regions to take advantage of the diverse culinary styles present throughout our state. We do suggest that you call to verify operating hours before visiting any of these wonderful establishments.
Hook Gulf Coast Cuisine Pass Christian
Coastal
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 55
The Hills
Bourbon Molasses Grilled Quail
56 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017
The Hills
GRIT 2 Town Square Ln., Taylor • 662.638.3922 • www.grittaylor.com story and photography by megan wolfe
T
o talk about GRIT, we start with the word “grit.” GRIT, the restaurant, gives patrons this definition: “Grit: in psychology is a positive, non-cognitive trait based on an individual’s passion for a particular long-term goal or end state, coupled with a powerful motivation to achieve their respective objective. This perseverance of effort promotes the overcoming of obstacles or challenges that lie within a gritty individual’s path to accomplishment, and serves as a driving force in achievement realization.” To this writer, “grit” evokes the image of hands-on, hard work; the fruits of which can be seen in GRIT, the restaurant. GRIT digs deep into culinary cues, uncovering new ways of transcending the Southern food experience. And they do so, artfully. Take, for example, the quail. Chargrilled with a molasses bourbon glaze, the quail is presented on a bed of stir-fried collard greens, and a swath of smoked turnip purée. The role of each of these familiar foods is carefully cast, both for its appearance, and its flavor. Each flavor shines with intent, and
richness. There’s a salute to traditional steakhouse entrées with the New York Strip. Rare and juicy, the meat is tenderly stacked atop red wine smashed potatoes and spinach horseradish cream. Pair this, or any dish, with one of GRIT’s many exclusive wines, for a unique experience. The dessert is equally complex. Described by both Chef Nick Reppond and Restaurant Co-Owner, Angie Sicurezza (a husband-and-wife team), as a “deconstructed carrot cake,” the Spice Cake is layered with a light mascarpone pastry cream, and topped with crunchy pecan brittle. A scoop of carrot sorbet balances the cake’s spice with a bit of sweetness. When asked what inspires them, the couple acknowledges a strong Italian influence, but they don’t like to limit GRIT’s menu to any one genre. Some dishes, such as the Sweet Chili Lime Quinoa Bowl, aren’t Italian at all. “I work closely with Heath Johnson (GRIT’s Sous Chef) on our menu,” says Reppond. “We’ve both worked closely in Italian restaurants, so there’s a lot of Italian influence. And eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 57
The Hills
Angie is Italian.” “Just bringing a lot of those flavors in brings us comfort,” he continues. “We’ll start with a couple of ingredients, and daydream about it. Then we try to put it together, write it out, cook it, and try it. We do that over and over again until we get it where we want it.” Creatively, GRIT is in good company with Taylor’s “Plein Air” community, which boasts an eclectic mix of artists and crafters. In fact, GRIT occupies the building of a former art gallery, and GRIT’s owners actively pay homage to that history through interior design. The GRIT team showcases art by local artists on a bimonthly basis and skillfully incorporates art wherever they can. The dining room tables were made by Mississippi craftsman, Obie Clark, and GRIT’s first art show featured painter Alice Hammill, both of which had owned the art gallery. Select entrées are plated on pottery by local artist, Keith Stewart. It’s this level of fine detail that makes GRIT feel very sophisticated, while it actually remains very accessible. Anyone can stop by for lunch or dinner, and relax for any length of time. When asked about future plans, Reppond and Sicurezza say they plan to, someday soon, host special events where patrons can participate in wine pairings, or have bourbon-and-cigars on GRIT’s outdoor patio. Meanwhile, their kitchen is hopping with large orders for catering, and the daily grind of hard work and fine cuisine is the very definition of GRIT. edm 58 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017
The Hills
GRIT Grog Pan Seared Diver Scallops New York Strip with Smashed Potatoes Spice Cake with Carrot Sorbet
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 59
The Delta
The sign outside The Crystal Grill is new, but its design replicates one of the restaurant’s earliest.
Doorman Kendrick Sanders greets The Crystal Grill’s customers. 60 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017
The Delta
The Crystal Grill 423 Carrollton Ave., Greenwood • 662.453.6530 • www.crystalgrillms.com story and photography by jo alice darden
Crystal Crab - Soft-shell crab with seafood sauce and lump crabmeat
J
ohnny Ballas, owner of The Crystal Grill in Greenwood, can remember when engineers on the old C&G Railway left the train rumbling on its tracks in front of the restaurant as early as 4 a.m. daily to enjoy a down-home breakfast to start their day. “The whole building shook while the train waited,” Ballas said. “There was always somebody here back then. We opened at 4 a.m. and closed for cleaning at midnight. That made for some long days.” But the Ballas family of restaurateurs has always been ready
and willing to do what their customers want, and Johnny makes sure that tradition remains unbroken. He started training in his family’s restaurant when he was about six years old. “My daddy stacked a couple of wooden Coca-Cola crates on the floor for me to stand on so I could reach the counter, and I’d chop ground beef with my little butcher knife,” he said. “I’ve been in the business ever since.” It’s hardly surprising. Running restaurants is in Ballas’ blood on both sides of his family. Known locally as “The Crystal,” the restaurant opened in eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 61
The Delta
Johnny Ballas Owner of The Crystal Grill in Greenwood
“The Crystal” offers fine dining in a casual atmosphere.
62 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017
1926 by the Carnaggio brothers, who sold it to the Liollios – Ballas’ uncles on his mother’s side – in 1952. In the 1940s, his father, Mike Ballas, reared in Greece, came to Greenwood and joined the family business, buying the restaurant from his brothersin-law in 1977. Ballas, now 64, has been there full-time since 1974. He credits his dad with injecting a solidly service-oriented work ethic into his psyche. Mike Ballas was 94 when he died in 2015, having worked daily until his early 90s. Through the years, Ballas said, the principal direction of The Crystal has been expansion – of both menu and space. When the restaurant first opened, its seating capacity was 50. Through several expansions over the years, it now serves 250. A staff of “40-ish” keeps things humming from lunch through dinner. “The toughest decisions we make involve deleting menu items,” he said. “For example, our seafood selection goes way beyond anything you’ll find on the (Gulf) Coast.” Customer favorites include the grilled salmon and the soft-shell crab with seafood sauce and lump crabmeat in a presentation that’s a feast for the eyes as well as the palate. And anyone who has contemplated ordering dessert at The Crystal Grill rhapsodizes about its pies. The mile-high meringue on the iconic chocolate and coconut cream pies seems to defy gravity. Salads, soups, extraordinary steaks, chops, seafood, poultry, organ meats, pasta, Southern-style vegetables, sandwiches and burgers, alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, and pies and cheesecakes beyond comparison are all on the menu at a variety of price points. Generous portion sizes often mean take-home boxes. Diversity of food choice has always been important at The Crystal. “Daddy used to say, ‘I never want to have an unsatisfied customer,’” Ballas recalled – a philosophy he maintains. “From appetizers through desserts,” he said, “there is no freezer-to-plate presentation. Everything is fresh. Our steaks are cut fresh daily. We make our own seasonings and sauces. We offer 17 or 18 kinds of salad dressings and make about half of them. This takes a lot of prep work and making sure everything is fresh. We even pick our own turnip greens.” The result is lifelong relationships with folks who feel as comfortable at T)he Crystal as in their own dining rooms – people Johnny grew up with who now have children and grandchildren of their own who have become loyal customers. “That’s what keeps it real for us,” he said. “They know they will not leave here hungry.” edm
The Delta
Chicken Parmesan on Angel Hair Pasta
Hand-cut Ribeye Steak with Baby Baker Potatoes
Coconut Cream Pie
Pralines Ice Cream Pie
Chocolate Pie eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 63
The Pines
64 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017
The Pines
Nightingale’s Pantry 6162 Highway 45 N, West Point • 662.494.0150 story by katie hutson west | photography by henry hutson
J
ust a couple miles north on Highway 45 Alt. outside West Point, Nightingale’s Pantry is a beacon to hungry travelers, hunters of homemade goods, and folks in need of a sweet-tooth fix. “When I describe us, I tell people that we’re like a mini Cracker Barrel,” says owner Judy Nightingale. She opened the Pantry in the spring of 2011, having no idea it would become what it is today. She and her husband, Richard, moved from the Delta to West Point back in the 70s. “Richard always wanted a little food shop he could just run as a hobby,” Nightingale says. The pair started out with a tiny store that sold mostly sliced meats and cheeses. “But people would always ask for sandwiches,” Nightingale says of the regulars that frequented their place. Less than a decade later they decided it was time to expand and the couple began erecting the new Nightingale’s Pantry - right in front of the old one. Sadly, Richard passed before seeing this dream realized, but Judy soldiered on, making their vision a reality. The Pantry is a welcomed sight – boasting a big front porch that invites you to sit a while and enjoy the breeze while relaxing on one of the rocking chairs or porch swings that was hand crafted in Starkville (all of which are available for purchase). Once you step inside, you’re greeted by a
friendly staff, the smell of freshly baked bread, and a couple of clipboards holding menus. With one marked ‘Salad’ and the other labeled ‘Sandwich’, grab the one you want and start circling your choice of meat, cheese, and toppings. “Our biggest seller is definitely the chicken salad,” says Nightingale. It’s her daughter Jody’s concoction; made of tender chicken, mayo, mustard, a splash of lemon juice, and the perfect blend of spices. “Jody is our kitchen manager and she’ll take a recipe, then change it up to really make something special,” proud mom Judy says. Along with salads and sandwiches, the Pantry also offers a feel-good bowl of soup during the cold winter months. Warm up with homemade options like chili, Texas tortilla, Mexican chicken corn chowder, and many others. A trip to the Pantry wouldn’t be complete without topping it off with a freshly baked piece of cake. German chocolate, caramel, carrot, Mississippi mud, and Amish cake are just a few of the favorites fans keep coming back for. After lunch, work off a handful of those calories by browsing the isles of the Pantry’s well-stocked market. It’s packed with goods and goodies. Shelves are lined with candies, flours, grains, and nuts and displays are filled with jellies, jams, and syrups. The back wall houses a freezer that’s chock full of eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 65
The Pines
Southwestern Salad
ready to bake rolls, breads, sides, and casseroles. After a little time in the oven, classic lasagna, poppy seed chicken, and corn casserole are set to serve. Nightingale’s gourmet potatoes dish (declared “comfort food at its best”) is perfect for the whole family. There’s also chicken spaghetti, BBQ meatballs, several varieties of enchiladas, and so much more. The Pantry isn’t just a place for food stuffs. It also stocks plenty of gift, décor, and home items. A place to find the one of a kind, Nightingale’s has hand sewn, richly detailed and high quality quilts that were made special by the ladies of the Oakwood Manor Assisted Living Home in Brooksville. Or if you would like to make your own, there’s a plethora of fabrics, sewing materials, and patterns.
66 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017
When the holidays roll around, not only does Nightingale’s have everything you need for that special Christmas party or dinner, but it’s also time for them to sell their locally famous Christmas boxes. These gems come in different sizes and are stuffed with Christmastime favorites like summer sausage, sliced Amish hoop cheese, jams, candies, popcorn, and more. Although it was meant to be just a little sandwich shop, Nightingale is thrilled with what Nightingale’s Pantry has become. “It got bigger than we ever thought it would be,” she says. Recently retired, Nightingale has left the day to day in the capable hands of her daughter and new manager, LeAnn Koehn. “But I really miss visiting with the people that came in there,” she says. “I just loved talking to everybody.” edm
The Pines
Manager LeAnn Koehn
Cajun Club Sandwich
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 67
Capital/River
Matthew Vines and Berta
Moo’s Barn & Grill 3 Government Fleet Rd., Natchez • 601.653.0907 • www.moosbarnandgrill.com
68 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017
Capital/River story and photography by elodie pritchartt
W
hen restaurateur Matthew Vines decided to open a restaurant in Natchez, he had no idea that his dream wouldn’t come to fruition for over two years. The folks in Natchez watched as the rundown Tobacco shop he’d bought slowly took shape. A porch was added, a trellis, the signature cow standing atop the entrance. But still it didn’t open. Everyone began to wonder if they’d decided not to open at all. As it turns out, it took so long because Vines, a graduate of the Louisiana Culinary Institute in Baton Rouge, Louisiana, was doing all the work, himself, with the help of longtime family friend, Tony Rachal. It was a big job. “The only thing we left that’s original to the building is the floors and the beams. We were thinking in a few months we’d have it ready, but then ideas started popping out.” What emerged is a cozy, comfortable, rustic restaurant with handpainted murals serving burgers, sandwich creations, appetizers, salads, etc. made with ingredients that will please every palate from the most simple to the most sophisticated. And you can wash it down with a fine selection of locally brewed craft beers. Vines uses grass-fed beef from a local farm, Oak Ridge Plantation, with a 75-to-15 fat-to-lean meat ratio patty. Moo’s uses only brioche buns that give them a rich and tender crumb. Burgers are created and
Maui Wowie Burger
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 69
Capital/River
Crawfish Balls 70 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017
Capital/River
The Biscuit Butt Burger
crafted by Vines, himself, with flourishes like fried eggs & avocado or bleu-cheese crumbles or goat cheese & sliced pear or even Mac and cheese. Appetizers like fried crawfish balls, loaded pulled pork fries, loaded buffalo chicken fries, or Rotel and chips will whet your appetite. In addition there are sandwiches, quesadillas, and wraps featuring corned beef on rye, pulled pork, chicken and, of course, the best BLT in town. The honey bourbon pineapple pulled-pork quesadilla is the perfect combination of sweet and piquant and tastes even better with a crisp beer. There are 12 different kinds of chicken wings, three kinds of hot dogs, and salads that feature Chicken Caesar or grilled or blackened fresh tuna. Kids can order chicken tenders or a grilled-cheese sandwich. In the evenings, Moo’s offers two outside patios draped in lights that set the mood for dancing near the band stage. If sodas and beer aren’t your style, you’re welcome to bring a wine or liquor of your choice. edm eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 71
Coastal
Hook Gulf Coast Cuisine 133 Davis Ave. Ste. M, Pass Christian • 228.222.4391 • www.hookgcc.net
by julian brunt
Y
ou are going to like the feel of this place just as soon as you walk in the door. It has that beach side vibe, with old wooden floors, and a washed out beaded board ceiling. There’s a small bar on your left as you enter, just the sort of cozy place you might find a local sipping a beer with a friend or two. There is also a great covered patio that looks like it would be cool even on a hot summer day, but this time of the year it would be nothing short of perfect. Chef and co-owner Corry Hudson has been cooking for a long time, and he has kept Hook Gulf Coast Cuisine humming for five years now. The menu is a comfortable size. There are twelve dinner entrées, nine sandwiches on the lunch menu, and a tight little Sunday brunch menu that is a perfect fit. Let’s get into the specifics of the menu a little later, but first I want to tell you a bit more about Chef Hudson. This guy has the moves, as they say in kitchen-pidgin. He not only understands how to put out a perfectly balanced menu, he understands the magic of food that will make you shake your head and say, “How in the heck does he do it?” The flavors are sublime, nothing overstated, but every once in a while something will jump out and take a swing at your palate. Bam, something goes off, a flavor or seasoning will stand up and you realize he did that on purpose. This guy definitely has the moves. If you think I am being hyperbolical, show up on Tuesday, 72 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017
Coastal
Goat Cheese Croquette Summer Salad Poblano Buffalo Wings Fried Green Tomatoes with Remoulade and Jumbo Crab
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 73
Coastal
Owner Corry Hudson Fish Tacos Seafood Pasta Seafood Platter Taco Tuesday that is, and watch this place get slammed. You will see beautifully seasoned Mahi Mahi tacos, topped with a spicy, crunch coleslaw, and doused with a killer secret sauce (actually it is a house-made Southwestern style remoulade sauce) come out of the kitchen by the score. In fact, a good Tuesday will see close to three hundred fish tacos hit the tables. But this is not a restaurant that rests its laurels on a single dish. Try the roasted poblano Buffalo shrimp that’s served with a killer blue cheese sauce, the ground chuck burger that blows people away, crabmeat-stuffed shrimp with a lemon butter sauce and a great risotto, tripletail, seafood pasta, or shrimp and grits. This menu is loaded with stunningly good food. Service is sharp thanks to co-owner and front of the house manager Tanya McClellan. Prices are fair and ambiance is solid. So, make your way to Pass Christian and prepare to eat a meal that you will not only long to remember, but, my money says, before you leave you’ll be planning your next visit. One last bit of advice... if all else fails, show up on Tuesday. Taco Tuesday is an event every foodie worth his salt should experience. edm
74 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017
Coastal
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 75
{ featured event }
76 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017
Gingerbread Village at Ole Miss Delights All Who Visit
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story by Susan Marquez | photography by j.j. carney
ingerbread and graham crackers, gumdrops and lollypops, chocolate kisses and candy canes. That’s what the innovative creations on display at the Ford Center for the Performing Arts are made of. This year’s annual and much beloved Gingerbread Village will be unveiled in a special opening reception on December 1st from 1 p.m. to 5 p.m., and the public is invited to come meet the creators. Located on the campus of the University of Mississippi, the Ford Center has organized the event every year since 2010, according to the Center’s marketing director, Kate Meacham. “Our director at the time, Norman Easterbrook, came in one day and said he thought it would be a good idea for us to have a gingerbread village,” recalls Meacham. “He said that anyone could make and display a gingerbread house and people could then come see them. It was October, and there wasn’t much time to get the word out.” There were four gingerbread houses the first year, yet the event was wildly popular, and inspired others to create something the next year. “We were thinking that pastry chefs and the like would submit houses, but we didn’t take into account that this is their busiest time of year.” Some pastry chefs do find the time, as well as families, organizations, campus groups, church groups, etc. “The number of submissions has grown each year,” said Meacham. “Last year we had 28 houses submitted, and as early as late October this year we already had 28 submissions.” The number of houses is limited by the amount of space in the Ford Center. “We are excited about having so many houses this year.” There aren’t many restrictions on the houses displayed, other than size. “We ask that people limit the size to 2-1/2’ by 2-1/2’, unless they check with us first. This year, Meacham says that they have entries from school groups, Girl Scout troops, businesses, families, and independent living facilities for senior adults. “We have a handful of people who have entered something every year.” The gingerbread houses are as varied as the people who make them. Some may be elaborate and intricate, and others, like the ones made by the moms and tots group are less sophisticated, but just as sweet. Some of the creations from past years have really stood out, especially those made by Mathew Zerangue’s family. “Matt is the technical director at the Ford Center, and his wife is very creative,” said Meacham. “Every year they construct a gingerbread house with their five children, and the results are always spectacular.” The Zerangue family has created a medieval castle, Willie Wonka’s chocolate factory, and, because they’re from south Louisiana, they created “Christmas in the Bayou.” Meacham said another memorable entry was one the Religious Studies department at Ole Miss
created. “It was very intricate, with a church, mosque, and synagogue. It was really remarkable.” The Gingerbread Village will be open to the public December 1st through 16th. The hours of operation are listed on the Ford Center’s website at www.fordcenter.org/ gingerbread/. There is no admission fee, however, people are encouraged to bring food or donations for local food banks. “We support the Oxford Pantry and the Ole Miss Food Bank, which helps out students in need,” said Meacham. Tour groups are asked to schedule ahead of time by emailing her at kmeacham@olemiss.edu or by calling 662-915-2787. “It’s just a happy, fun event,” said Meacham. “We invite all to come enjoy our Gingerbread Village this year.” edm
eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 77
december/january 2017
Food Festivals & Events December 1-16
Gingerbread Village - Oxford -
Take a break from your busy day, and relax in the quiet and calm of a magical village made of gingerbread. Located at the Ford Center on the campus of the University of Mississippi, the Village is free and open to the public December 1-16. The Gingerbread Village supports local food banks and visitors are encouraged to bring non-perishable food items to donate. For more information, see the article on page 77.
December 3
Mississippi Children’s Museum 6th Birthday Bake-Off - Jackson -
Get a slice of the celebration for Mississippi Children’s Museum’s sixth birthday. The second annual Birthday Cake Bake-Off will be held on Saturday, December 3rd from 10 a.m. - 2 p.m. Vote for your favorite flavors from across the city as they compete for the Golden Whisk and the Golden Knife. Cake tastings will last for a limited time while supplies last, so visit early to taste them all. Included with general admission or MCM membership. Participating bakeries include Lulu’s Sweet Shoppe, Just Kaking, Campbell’s Bakery, Sticky Sweet Cakes and Treats, Three Peacocks Cakery, That Special Touch Bakery, and Prickly Hippie.
December 2
Wassail Fest - Columbus -
Sample wassail, register for door prizes, and enjoy caroling throughout the streets of Downtown Columbus on December 2nd, 5-8 p.m. Wassail is served at many local businesses. Vote for your favorite Wassail-Meister at this Columbus tradition. For more information, visit www.columbusmainstreet. com/event/wassail-fest-6 or call 662-328-6305.
December 3
Breakfast with Santa - Horn Lake -
Bring the children to sit on Santa’s lap to get in their final Christmas requests and enjoy free juice and milk and crafts. Your child will receive a letter and a keepsake picture from Santa to take home that day. This event will be held on December 3rd, 8-11 a.m., at the R. Dye Public Library in Horn Lake. For more information, contact the Horn Lake Parks & Recreation, 662-342-3469 or visit www.hornlakeparks.com.
To have your food festival or culinary event included in future issues, please contact us at info@eatdrinkmississippi.com. All submissions are subject to editor's approval.
78 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017
December 3
December 9
Breakfast with Santa
Victorian Luncheon
Mayor Darren Musselwhite and the City of Southaven will host Breakfast with Santa at the Southaven Multi-purpose Arena on December 3rd, 8-10 a.m.. There is no admission cost. To make your reservation, please call 662-393-6939 or 662-280-2489. Pictures with Santa will also be available at no charge. For more information, visit www.southaven.org.
Join the Natchez Garden Club by bringing in the holiday season with this year’s Victorian Luncheon and Soup & Casserole Sale. The event will be held at Magnolia Hall on Friday, December 9th, 11:30 a.m. - 1 p.m. Tickets are $15 and on sale through the NGC office. Call 601-443-9065 or visit www. natchezgardenclub.org to learn more.
- Southaven -
- Natchez -
December 10
December 4
Cookies with Santa - Hernando -
Bring your children or grandchildren to Gale Community Center in Hernando on Sunday, December 6th, 2-5 p.m. to have their picture made with Santa and enjoy cookies, crafts and more. Cost is $1 per child and $3 per adult. For more information, call Hernando Parks and Recreation 662-4292688 or visit www.hernandorec.com.
December 8
A Gingerbread Christmas - Pearlington -
Join the residents of Pearlington for “A Gingerbread Christmas” at the Pearlington Public Library on December 8th at 6 p.m. Families will display their best Christmas gingerbread house creations. Santa will also be there to hear children’s wishes. Light holiday refreshments will be served. For more information, visit www.hancocklibraries.info or call 228-4675282.
Christmas Pastry Sale - Biloxi -
Holy Trinity Greek Orthodox Church in Biloxi will hold their annual Christmas Pastry Sale on December 10th, 9 a.m. - 2 p.m. Every holiday season for over 30 years, Greek pastries, Greek bread, and Spanakopita (spinach rolls), along with delicacies from additional countries, have been sold at Holy Trinity to the people along the Coast of Mississippi. Different pastries may be ordered by the box (6 or 12 pieces), along with special assortment boxes. In addition to the pastries and breads, there are canned and dry goods available from the “Greek Store.” Orders are taken in advance, so order soon for Christmas. For more information, visit www.holytrinitybiloxi.org/bakesale.php or contact George Yurchak at 228-831-5820.
January 28
7th Annual Top of the Hops Beer Fest - Biloxi -
Mississippi craft beer lovers can sample dozens of new high-gravity beers in one location on the Mississippi Gulf Coast at the 7th Annual Top of the Hops Beer Fest on January 28th. Two ounce unlimited sampling of craft beers from around the world will be combined with great food, music, and games at the Mississippi Coast Convention Center. For more information, visit www.topofthehopsbeerfest.com/biloxi. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 79
Recipe Index
Advertisers Index
Belgium Hot Chocolate, 19 Candied Sweet Potatoes, 33 Chantilly Cream, 19 Chicken and Black Bean Chili, 41 Collard Greens, 33 Cracklin’ Cornbread, 35 Edible Reindeer Food, 27 Garlic Shrimp Spaghetti, 53 Gulf Shrimp & Blue Crab Linguine, 47 Holiday Chow, 27 Hot Cocoa Ornaments, 27 Mashed Potatoes, 34 Pistachio Honey Rolls, 43 Roasted Cauliflower Steaks, 14 Rolo Reindeer, 27 Rustic Pear Galette, 45 Santa’s Sugar Cookies, 19 Seafood and Eggplant Dressing, 21 Spiral-cut Ham, 35 Sweet Potato Biscuits, 51 Winter White Cosmo, 54
Etta B Pottery, 6 Hale Groves, 31 Hello Fresh, 81 Mangia Bene, 11 Mississippi Beef Council, 13 Mississippi Children’s Museum, 9 Mississippi Food Network, 3 Restaurant Tyler, 31 Sanderson Farms, Back Cover Sante South Wine Festival, 2 Sew Smocking Cute, 4 Simmons Catfish, 9 The Kitchen Table, 6 The Manship, 4 The Manship, 11 The Original Mississippi Pickle Fork, 11 Thurman’s Landscaping, 81
STORE INFORMATION from pages 16-17
Anderson’s Bakery 2033 Market St. Pascagoula, MS 39567 228.762.3622 www.andersonsbakery.com Bed Bath and Beyond www.bedbathandbeyond.com Mississippi locations - Flowood, Gulfport, Hattiesburg, Jackson, Meridian, Southaven, Tupelo Brock’s Salon & Gift Center 1220 E. Northside Dr. Ste. 300 Jackson, MS 39211 601.366.9344 Etsy www.etsy.com/listing/480384813
Follow us on Instagram to see some of the tasty, local bites we’ve discovered! 80 • DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017
Etta B Pottery www.ettabpottery.com The Cakery 1944 University Ave. Oxford, MS 38655 662.202.6466 www.thecakeryoxford.com The Everyday Gourmet 1270 E. County Line Rd. Ridgeland, MS 39157 601.977.9258 www.theeverydaygourmet.com The Kitchen Table 3720 Hardy St. Ste. 3 Hattiesburg, MS 39402 601.261.2224 www.kitchentablenow.com
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Thurman’s Landscaping Landscaping • Irrigation • Waterfalls • Lighting Outdoor Kitchens & Patios • Iron & Brick Work
601.270.8512 eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 81
Till We Eat Again
BILL DABNEY PHOTOGRAPHY
Jay Reed, a graduate of Ole Miss, lives in Starkville where he is a pharmacist by day and a freelance food writer by day off. He is a member of the Southern Foodways Alliance and writes "Eats One Ate," a weekly column in the Starkville Daily News.
82 82• •DECEMBER/JANUARY DECEMBER/JANUARY2017 2017
What’s the “Dill” with Pickles?
P
BY JAY REED
ickles are trending...and the tipping point in drawing this conclusion wasn’t a pickle at all. It was a pack of peanuts. I was somewhere in North Mississippi on a road trip, roaming around a service station looking for something to nibble on. I probably wasn’t even hungry – it’s more likely I was looking to absolve some minor guilt because I had stopped to use their plumbing and thought I should buy something. And buy something I did: a pack of dill pickle-flavored peanuts. These peanuts were also “limited edition” – beguiling words that feed my fear of missing out. I thought about that a little while. It couldn’t be a seasonal thing – pickles don’t really have a season since they are…you know…pickled, and essentially last forever, like fruitcake. Maybe they were limited edition because the snack company wasn’t sure they would sell as well as dill pickle potato chips. Or perhaps the limiting factor was a tub of powder leftover from a batch of dill pickle-flavored sunflower seeds. In other words, “We’ve got this powder, and we’ve got these peanuts – what could go wrong?” As a fan of said chips and seeds, I did enjoy the peanuts. I wouldn’t necessarily recommend them poured in a bottle of carbonated cola-flavored beverage (I’ll let y’all fight amongst yourselves as to whether that should be Pepsi or Coke). But as an offbeat snack, I give them a thumbs up. Another conversation in a sister snack company: “Why don’t we just sell the extra powder as Pickle Salt? We’ll put it at the cash register with the Lemon Salt, Lime Salt, Orange Salt, and Beer Salt. People will buy it.” And we do. I have so many, I could open my own service station. Pickles are still big sellers at farmers markets. My personal pickle maker is Mrs. Orene, who makes a Cinnamon Candy Pickle. For historical context (because it’s the holidays, and that means the relish tray will come out of storage at our house), my Granny made a sweet and sour pickle from peeled cucumbers cut into random geometric shapes. They were my favorite. Beside them on the antique tray were spiced apple rings, which also came out once a year. Mrs. Orene combines Granny’s geometry and the spicy redness of the apples into one pickle that makes a heckuva good bite. I’ve been known to eat a few for dessert. Speaking of red pickles, though the Delta-born Koolickle has been around a while, I do still find an occasional outlier who is surprised by the idea of a KoolAid soaked spear. Cherry red may be the most common ready-made Koolickle in stores, but homemade versions are limited only by the variety of drink packets your local grocer carries. Have you ever considered what makes a Chick-fil-A sandwich so special? (It’s the only fast food restaurant I will allow my family to enter on a road trip - unless we are just using the plumbing, of course.) It could be the pickle. That juicy, fried chicken breast looks at those two slices of pickle and says, “You complete me.” Also, if you get a hankering for a #1 value meal and there is no Chick-fil-A in sight - or maybe it’s Sunday - pickles can help. Search the worldwide interweb for copycat Chick-fil-A recipes, and you will find that soaking the chicken in a dill pickle brine is mentioned more than once. Just sayin’. But it’s not just cukes that folks are picklin’ these days. Chef Ty Thames of Starkville pickled a green strawberry for the Atlanta Food and Wine Festival last year. Two Brothers Smoked Meats (also of Starkville) tops several of their signature dishes with pickled cabbage. Chef Mitch McCamey and his crew at Neon Pig in Tupelo/Oxford are basically pickling everything that is locally grown. Even pickle juice is trending. People who exercise say a shot of the briny liquid is good for athletically-induced muscle cramps. Actually, that explains a lot. As a kid, I went to legions of birthday parties at the Golden Triangle Skating Rink, and the bravest among us would order a cup of pickle juice over ice at the snack bar. No wonder we could skate so long. Pickles are in. Dill with it. edm
Missing an issue? JUNE/JULY 2016
Sweet Treats
for the Season
APRIL/MAY 2016
EATS
HOMEMADE CHICKEN PIE
FRENCH BISTRO IN OXFORD HOME
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+ Bishop’s BBQ + Yazoo Pass + J. Broussard's + Miss D’s Diner + Deli Diner
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page 34
COUNTRY
TURKEY
Transformation
Farm-to-Table
DINNER
+ Vicari Italian Grill + Rose’s Downtown Bakery & Tearoom + Sway’s Bistro + Stromboli’s Italian Eatery + Cast Iron Cafe
Mississippi COMMUNITY COOKBOOK PROJECT
page 44
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page 74
page 22
3
Gathering at the
page 36
GREAT RECIPES FOR ADDING CHIA SEEDS TO YOUR DIET
FIGHTING FOR THE FAMILY FARM Ben Burkett Receives James Beard Foundation Award for Contributions to Agriculture
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5 UNIQUE HOLIDAY COCKTAILS
REAL COOKING WITH CHEF DAVID CREWS
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FEBRUARY/MARCH 2014
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Spring Luncheon
West Coast Meets
Gulf Coast
G overnor's Mansion
December/January 2015
ANGEL FOOD CAKE WAFFLES
DRINKING YOUR FRUITS AND VEGETABLES
CHICKEN & WAFFLES
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eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI WING DANG DOODLE FESTIVAL
page 20
FESTIVAL
- The Not So Odd Couple -
February/March 2015
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2014
Give Me
Watermelon
page 41
AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2014
S'more(s)
Culinary
BUCKET LIST
Summer Treats
Fire & Feast
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VOLUME 3, NUMBER 5
VOLUME 3, NUMBER 6
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Shrimping Trip
BBQ COMPETITION
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CHIA-licious!
BILOXI
SODA-LIGHTFUL
April/May 2015
page 31
August/September 2015
October/November 2015
Roasted Brussels Sprouts
TAILGATING
Recipes
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NYC • DC • ATL
Peachy
FARM TABLES
DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015
MEET THE MACARON MAVEN
FESTIVALS
PICNICS
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Crawfish
Mississippi
Mississippi eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1
VOLUME 4, NUMBER 1
VOLUME 4, NUMBER 2
VOLUME 4, NUMBER 3
PERFECTLY
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Kitchen Tools
PORK
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APRIL/MAY 2015
JUNE/JULY 2015
+ Ravine + 1933 + Henri's + Coffee Pot Cafe + The Sicilian II
page 68
Heritage Breed
PROGRESSIVE
Dinner
December/January 2016
page 34
Eudora Welty's White Fruitcake page 30
Bringing Mississippi Roots to the Table
February/March 2016
+ Ciao Chow + Crawdad’s + Restaurant 1818 + Thai by Thai + The Greenhouse on Porter eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1
April/May 2016
Summer Salads
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AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015
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Day in the
+ Orleans Bistro + Rust + The Palette Café + DeRego’s Bread + Corks & Cleaver Wine Bistro
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FLAVORS of Fall + AC’s Steakhouse • Pub + Five O’clock on Deer Creek + Lou’s Full Serv + The Twisted Burger Company + The Blind Tiger
June/July 2016
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015
Sensible Switches FOR HEALTHY
EATING
page 25
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VOLUME 4, NUMBER 5
VOLUME 4, NUMBER 6
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August/September 2016
+ Southern Eatery + CRAVE Bistro + Livingston + Skidmore’s Grill + Tasty Tails eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI •1
LOCAL CHEF CROWNED KING OF SEAFOOD
+ Blue Canoe + Cicero’s + Brummi’s Yummies + Chunky Shoals Fish Camp + 200 North Beach
Supper Club
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+ Oxford Canteen + Levon’s Bar and Grill + Culinary Cowboy + Longhorn’s Steakhouse + Ed’s Burger Joint
+ The Auction Block Steakhouse + The Blue Biscuit + 10 South Rooftop Grill & Bar + Taste & See + Keg & Barrel
DELTA
Mother’s Day Brunch
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FOOD REVOLUTION
LOCAL RICE GROWERS
DECEMBER/JANUARY 2016
HONEY
& FRIENDS
DREAM KITCHEN
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TUPELO CELEBRATES 100 YEARS OF COCA-COLA
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Cooking With
Martha Foose’s
BOUNTIFUL BERRIES
FOOD FLIGHT
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Best Gas Station
RANDOM RESTAURANT ROAD TRIPS
page 68
page 22
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THE ART OF FOOD
VOLUME 5, NUMBER 1
Soups
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VOLUME 5, NUMBER 2
AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2016
VOLUME 5, NUMBER 3
VOLUME 5, NUMBER 4
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VOLUME 5, NUMBER 5
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SWEET & SAVORY JAMS CHOCOLATE CHIP BREAD PUDDING
DECEMBER/JANUARY 2014
Easy Holiday Appetizers
DUTCH OVEN COOKING
page 44
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Lovefor theof Chocolate
page 26
page 34
the delicious legacy of
Heirloom Tomatoes page 32
August/September 2014
October/November 2014
FARM TO SCHOOL MONTH GREENVILLE'S DELTA HOT TAMALE FESTIVAL HUNGER GAINS: THE REVOLUTIONARY ACT OF EATING LOCAL
PIG PICKIN' CAKE FOODIE FORAY ON 49
Small Touches, Big Flavor
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AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013
S hrimp & Grits
Fall Fare
Linkie Marais
Collins Tuohy
JUNE/JULY 2013
Picnic Prime Time for a
Comeback Sauce
The Crawfish Boil
James Beard Dinner
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75 Years of Edam Cheese
Caf CLIMB
Canada's Mississippi Queen
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Cooking with Venison
CLINTON LUNCHROOM LADIES GO HEAD TO HEAD IN RACHAEL RAY'S CAFETERIA COOK-OFF GRANDMA’S POUND CAKE eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1
Peanuts
Southern Foodways Alliance
Lauren Farms
Mrs. Annie's Famous Strawberry Cake page 22
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DECEMBER/JANUARY 2013
APRIL/MAY 2013
Slugburger 101
Katelyn's Lemonade
Fit to Eat
Hunter's Harvest
page 62
FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013
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Josh Marks
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Giardina's Keeping Tradition Fresh & Elegant
page 28
June/July 2013
Olympian Chefs
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Award-Winning Barbecue
WORLD’S ONLY APRON MUSEUM IN IUKA August/September 2013
DELTA HOT TAMALES
Dairy Farms
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page 18
BAKED AND FRIED PUMPKIN CAKE ROBERT ST. JOHN AND WYATT WATERS TEAM TO CREATE AN ITALIAN PALATE
PASS CHRISTIAN OYSTER FESTIVAL MORE THAN 30 GREAT RECIPES FOR THE HOLIDAYS SUPER GAME DAY GRUB
A Southern Favorite
page 46
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VOLUME 2, NUMBER 4
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2013
CHICKEN AND ANDOUILLE SAUSAGE GUMBO PIZZA FARM OFFERS UNIQUE LEARNING EXPERIENCE
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VOLUME 2, NUMBER 5
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DELICIOUSLY SEXY EGGPLANTS
SOUTHERN-STYLE CRAWFISH BOIL
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Extra Table
Patrick House
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Swapping Memories & Cookies page 28
Bread Pudding Throwdown
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•
Minny's Chocolate Pie from the movie The Help PAGE 12
• PAGE 18
AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2012
$4.95
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Eat fresh at your local farmers market
Tailgating tidbits
Mississippi Mud page 26
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2012
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Santa can’t live on cookies alone. How about some uy! chicken for the big g
SCAN AND PLACE YOUR PHONE HERE SO BOB AND DALE CAN SING YOU A CAROL.
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No artificial ingredients and minimally processed.