eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI: February/March 2022 Issue

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MISSISSIPPI Woodson Ridge Farmstead | Thorny Oyster | Ice & Vice

VOLUME 11, NUMBER 1 eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

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Healthy and Fresh for 2022

From Mediterranean-inspired dishes to making lighter versions of your favorite foods, get inspired for a better diet in the New Year eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

Date Night in JXN REBECCA FENDING

I

f you’re looking for a new date night spot this Valentine’s Day, the City with Soul has you covered. The options are nearly endless, but here are just a few to consider.

Estelle Wine Bar and Bistro Estelle’s menu has a little something for every palate. With everything from light bites to hearty dinners, this restaurant is a local favorite for a reason. From Southern classics like pimento cheese and shrimp and grits, to exotic flavors like sweet chili shrimp, the dinner menu does not disappoint.

Not only does Estelle have a sensational dinner menu, but they also serve brunch on Saturdays and Sundays from 7 am to 2 pm. From sweet and sticky cinnamon rolls to savory and classic eggs benedict, who says your valentine can’t also be your brunch date?

Open for dinner each night from 4 to 10 pm, reservations are recommended. To learn more, visit their website at www. estellejackson.com.

Walker’s Drive-In Self-described as “upscale dining in a laidback atmosphere,” Walker’s is a great place to find yourself for date night. Focused on featuring what the state has to offer, this restaurant sources fresh, seasonal ingredients, including sustainably sourced seafood and beef.

Chef Derek Emerson has created a menu that tickles any taste bud.

From BBQ Fried Oysters as a starter to Wood Grilled Wagyu Hanger Steak as a main course, Walker’s menu is diverse and deliciously unique to the Fondren district.

Although walk-ins are welcomed at Walker’s, reservations are suggested for dinner.

Find more information at their website, www.walkersdrivein.com.

BRAVO! From gourmet pasta to woodfired pizzas, BRAVO! is your stop for any taste you may have. Fresh ingredients and experienced chefs are the reason BRAVO! has so many returning customers.

Image by Ben Hon From salads overflowing with freshly prepared vegetables, fruit and meat, to satisfying and soulwarming entrees like veal parmigiana, BRAVO! is just what you need to enjoy a romantic evening.

BRAVO! also has daily lunch specials from 11 am to 5 pm, so be sure to ask your server what the kitchen has special that day.

Learn more at the BRAVO! website, bravobuzz.com.

Mayflower Café Awarded with the title of “The Best Comeback Salad Dressing,” the Mayflower Café is a Jackson classic since 1935. Their Greekinspired seafood and steak menu items are the reason they’ve been feeding Jackson locals and visitors for 85 years.

Their fantastic menu offers options for every eater, from steak lovers to salad fanatics, and even their extensive seafood list. There’s no way to go hungry at Mayflower Café!

To learn more about the restaurant’s history, menu and specials, visit them at www.mayflowercafems.com.

Library Lounge Located in the historic Fairview Inn, Library Lounge was established in 1908 and has been a Jackson hotspot ever since.

Originally the library for the inn, it was converted to a lounge dedicated to local Mississippi writers such as John Grisham, William Faulkner and Tennessee Williams, to name a few.

History aside, the Library Lounge offers a fantastic array of dishes and cocktails to guests. Pan-seared rainbow trout paired with seasonal autumn vegetables, cavatappi pasta with roasted eggplant and spinach and Simon’s Burger topped with gouda and horseradish aioli are just a few options on the dinner menu.

To read more about the history or menus, visit their website at fairviewinn.com/library-lounge.

Johnny T’s Bistro & Blues Founded in the name of the legend of Johnny T., a blues player in the 1900s, Johnny T’s marries the classic Southern flare of the blues with quintessentially Mississippi fare. Their signature items include their Salmon Balls (salmon croquettes deep fried and served with honey butter sauce), Shrimp Toast and Johnny T’s burger (eight-ounce handmade patty with lettuce and tomato on a brioche bun).

Be sure to check out the upstairs of the restaurant, known as the 540 Ultra Lounge. This upscale and sexy lounge is open until the wee hours of the morning, allowing for your party to carry throughout the night.

Read more about Johnny T’s at johnnytsbistroandblues.com. t the full catering menu, call Glenda Barner at 601-750-6562.

2 • February/March 2022

DISCOVER OUR

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eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 3

CONTENTS February/March 2022 Volume 11 Number 1

30 22 41 in this issue in every issue 6 From the Editor 7

What’s Happening

10 Fabulous Foodie Finds 12 A Taste of Magnolia 44 Recipe Index 47 Till We Eat Again

4 • February/March 2022

14 FRESH FROM THE FARM: Cedar Hill Farm 18 SUPER DELICIOUS DIPS: 3 CrowdPleasing Dips for the Big Game 24 THE CROSSTIE FESTIVAL: An Annual Tradition in the Mississippi Delta

34 MISSISSIPPI MADE: Yolande van Heerden 36 RESTAURANT SPOTLIGHT: Thorny Oyster 38 FROM THE BOOKSHELF: “The Skinnytaste Cookbook”

26 THE FARMSTEAD ON WOODSON RIDGE

41 RAISE YOUR GLASS: Springtime Sangria Verde

29 THE HISTORY BEHIND CREOLE

42 FRESH, HEALTHY FAMILY MEALS

30 ICE AND VICE: Changing the Lives of Foster Children in Mississippi 32 FROM MISSISSIPPI TO BEYOND: Pat Martin

ON THE COVER: Baked Artichoke Dip with Broccoli by Lisa LaFontaine Bynum, page 22.

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MISSISSIPPI eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 5

{ from the editor }

New Year, Same Resolutions

BY REBECCA FENDING

Although the calendar year may have changed, many of our resolutions have not. We’re all friends here; we can be honest with each other: are your resolutions a carbon copy of those from 2021? If so, you are not alone.

There’s always a common theme for each new year: get healthy. Whether that means eating more veggies, moving more or making small movements towards bettering your mental health, we all end up in the same boat when it comes to our outlook for the year. But why is it that we tend to falter on our plans yet think they’ll work the next year?

I think many abandoned resolutions are abandoned due to ambition outweighing ability.

There’s no shame in that—expecting more of yourself than what you can actually do is admirable and all too common. The best way to stick to any plans you may have made back in January is to start small, as small as possible. This could be going for a quick five-minute walk after dinner once a week, which could easily morph into multiple times a week or even every evening.

That could also mean integrating one healthy (“healthy-ish” or “healthier,” whichever) meal into your weekly dinner plans. Don’t overload yourself with a total upheaval of your current diet; that is a sure-fire way to force yourself into folding before your resolutions have even had a chance. One healthier dinner to make if you have this goal is spaghetti squash with meat sauce.

Although spaghetti squash is best in the fall or winter, it’s typically pretty easy to find year-round in your grocery store’s produce section. This recipe makes for a great mix of light and hearty, which are typically two very different categories for meals.

However, by substituting pasta for spaghetti squash, you not only cut out the carbs for a lighter meal, but you also add a ton of fiber, vitamins C, D and B6 to your diet. The meat sauce helps make it just a bit more satisfying with added protein.

The best part? You don’t even need to dirty bowls or plates with this recipe; just add the meat sauce to your squash half and mix it all together!

SPAGHETTI SQUASH WITH MEAT SAUCE Ingredients: • 4 tablespoons olive oil • 2 medium-sized spaghetti squashes • 1 pound ground turkey • 1 medium yellow onion, diced • 2 medium carrots, peeled and grated • 3 cloves of garlic (or more, measure with your heart) • 28 oz. crushed tomatoes • ½ cup water • ½ cup parmesan cheese, freshly grated • Salt and pepper • Fresh basil, for garnish To Prepare: 1. Preheat your oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit.

Carefully cut your squashes in half, lengthwise.

Scoop and discard the seeds. Drizzle the inside with 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Lay halves face down on a lined baking sheet. Bake for 40 minutes.

2. While your squashes are baking, brown the ground turkey with 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a pan on medium heat, about 5 minutes.

3. When meat is browned, add the onion, garlic and carrot. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Cook until vegetables are soft.

4. Add the crushed tomatoes and water to the pan and heat through until gently simmering. Add more salt and pepper as needed.

5. Once squashes are done, carefully flip the halves over and rake a fork through the flesh. If you’re planning to build your meal in the squash halves, leave the overall shape and skin intact.

6. Add your meat sauce to the halves and top with parmesan and basil. Serve immediately and enjoy! edm

EAT DRINK MISSISSIPPI (USPS 17200) is published bi-monthly by Connected Community Media Group, 10971 Four Seasons Pl. Ste. 211, Crown Point, IN 46307. Periodicals postage paid at Madison, MS, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Please mail changes of address to P.O. Box 1663, Madison, MS 39130.

6 • February/March 2022

{ what’s happening }

MOD Burger Opening Location in Tupelo

T

he Silo Square development in Southaven continues to grow as Belly Acres announced the opening of a location in the Newtown Square area.

Belly Acres, known for their farm-to-table burgers, will feature a unique design between an old barn and an airplane hangar, paying tribute to Silo’s history. The restaurant will feature bike racks, golf cart parking for

residents, a fire pit, cornhole yard and outdoor seating.

Belly Acres currently has two locations in Memphis and their signature burgers are made from 100 percent grass-fed beef. They also serve “beef-less” burger options, free-range chicken, sandwiches and milkshakes.

The Southaven location is set to open later in 2022. edm

Annie M’s Cafe Opens in Flora

L

ocated in the Cotton Exchange building in Flora, Annie M’s opened in November and offers breakfast, lunch and supper menus with Southern and Cajun-inspired dishes to choose from. Breakfast is served from 6 to 10 am, with Blue Plate lunches starting at 10:30 and served until 2 pm.

Menu options include hamburgers, catfish, shrimp, along with several side items to choose from. Dinner is served from 6 to 8 pm every day except for Sundays. On Friday and Saturday nights, Annie M’s offers chef specials, filets, seafood and things of the like.

Annie M’s is located at 740 Highway 49 in Flora. edm

Sipp & Savor Set for April 23

T

he second annual Sipp & Savor event is set for April 23 in Meridian at The MAX. Top chefs from all over the United States will bring their culinary skills to the table and infuse them with Southern-inspired flavors. This event benefits The MAX’s educational programming and efforts around the state. Tickets are $75 for non-members, $65 for members. For more details and to purchase tickets, visit sippandsavor.com. edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 7

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eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI Debbie Hansen Publisher/Editor

Debbie.Hansen@eatdrinkmississippi.com

Rebecca Fending Editor

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Julian Brunt Lisa LaFontaine Bynum Divian Conner Melissa Cookston Susan Marquez Brandi Perry Jay Reed Contributors

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eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 9

{ fabulous foodie finds }

Kitchen Necessities Perfect for Eating Fresh and Meal Prep As with every year, there seems to be an uptick in the number of people jumping in the kitchen to use more fresh ingredients, meal prep or just looking to learn more about cooking. Whether

you plan on changing up your weekly menu, these items may be exactly what you’re looking for to make mealtime inspired.

Meal Prepping “Prepdeck,” $99 To make meal prepping a breeze for the coming year, this “Prepdeck” keeps your work area tidy and organized. Say goodbye to a disorganized, messy, stressful cooking process. Prepdeck brings chefapproved mise en place techniques to the home cook so you can prep ahead, stay organized and enjoy a stress-free cooking environment.

This set is dishwasher and microwave-safe, antibacterial, as well as stain, odor and shatter-resistant.

Vacuum Sealer, $59.95 Great for meal prepping, marinating or even just storing fresh ingredients for longer, a vacuum sealer is a must for any make-ahead chef. Vacuum sealers are also wonderful for any kitchen that tends to deal with cooking in bulk. Meats, vegetables, fruits, bread and even cheese can store for up to four to six times longer with vacuum sealing. Not only does it allow food to last longer, but it also helps create more room in your refrigerator or freezer as it eliminates excess packaging.

This vacuum sealer is from Williams-Sonoma retails for $59.95 and uses BPA-free plastic. Learn more at williams-sonoma.com.

Airtight Food Storage, $37.99 On the topic of meal prepping and food preservation, airtight food containers are a great way to stretch the life of even the freshest of ingredients. Whether you’re storing leftover soup (because it’s still soup season) or fresh veggies, these containers are your best friend.

This 18-piece set from Amazon is priced at $37.99. Each glass piece is microwave, dishwasher, freezer and oven-safe, making reheating and cleaning super easy. Find this set and many similar at amazon.com.

10 • February/March 2022

Mediterranean Diet Cookbook, $19.97 In the interest of fresh, healthy cooking for the New Year, integrating more Mediterranean-style dishes is a great place to start. The Mediterranean Diet has been a hot topic for the last several years as it focuses on fresh, whole foods and lean proteins. This aims to help improve heart health, increase longevity and support healthy brain aging.

“Mediterranean Diet Cookbook for Beginners: Over 1000 Quick & Healthy Recipes That Anyone Can Cook at Home” is $19.97 on Amazon. The book also includes a 30-day meal plan, making it a great place to start with a Mediterranean diet. Find this book and others like it at amazon.com.

Air Fryer, $54 We’ve featured air fryers before, and will again simply because they’re the best. An air fryer is a great alternative to traditional oil-fried foods, and it makes cooking a breeze. If you’re cooking a protein, you can set it and forget it, keeping the meat juicy on the inside and crisp on the outside.

Air fryers use, well, air to cook. This oilless cooking method makes preparing healthy cooked meats and veggies an easy cleanup and eliminates the added calories from frying oil.

This Gourmia 6 Quart Air Fryer from Walmart is priced at $54 and makes for a great, inexpensive option. Shop more air fryers at walmart.com.

Avocado Saver, $11.99 Food waste is more than just wasted potential, it’s wasted money! Keep your avocadoes and other produce from spoiling by storing it in a fitted, reusable container. Whether you’re making a small batch of guacamole or just need half of an avocado for your toast, avocado savers make it easy to keep the browning of oxidation at bay.

This food grade silicone Avocado Food Hugger from Earth Hero comes in two different sizes, depending on whether or not the pit is included. For $11.99, you can’t go wrong. Find these avocado savers at earthhero.com.

Self-Sharpening Knife Set, $229.95 As we learned from Brandt Cox in the October/November issue of last year, it’s imperative that prep work is done with a sharp knife. Cutting with dull knives forces you to exert more pressure, increasing the likelihood that the knife will slip and cause injury.

With self-sharpening knives, you never have to worry about sharpening them prior to preparing your ingredients.

This 20-piece knife set from Cutlery and More is $229.95 and includes all prepping knives you may need, as well as eight serrated steak knives. To learn more, search for the set at cutleryandmore.com. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 11

Taste of Magnolia a

DIVIAN CONNER is a Mississippi mama of four ‘not so little’ little ones. Coming up with recipes, trying new ones, and feeding her crew of tweens and teens is her passion. Southern recipes, easy recipes, sorta hard recipes, but always delicious recipes is what you will find on her food blog, www.divianlconner.com.

Now venturing into outdoor cooking over an open fire, Divian is fascinated with camp cooking and entertaining.

12 • February/March 2022 12 • February/March 2022

Lebanese Inspired Pita

BY DIVIAN CONNER

I

am one of those people who gets excited to go to the grocery store. I have been known to turn on Tiny Tim’s “Tiptoe Through the Tulips” and have it play in my ears as my soundtrack while I venture down each aisle taking in everything the shelves have to offer. I especially love it when the grocer stocks something new, and from a different country, I cannot contain myself, and I buy it because, hey, it’s new, it’s different and why not? Trying different things from different countries is my literal jam. I even subscribe to an international snack subscription box, and my kids and I love trying and rating the different snacks each month. We have found so many new favorites by stepping outside our comfort zone.

The expansion of the international aisle in the grocery store has been blowing my mind recently with so many options for us to take home and try. You cannot even begin to imagine the level of excitement I have when something new pops up—ohhhh shiny! Not only does my happiness come from finding new things, but it also comes from being able to take my time in the produce section, making sure I pick the best fruits and veggies to bring home to my family. I can seriously spend 30 minutes alone in the produce section looking at everything and thinking of the amazing food I can make using the different fruits and vegetables. The upcoming week’s dinners can literally change in 1.4 seconds, depending on what I see in the store. To my shopping list, I am far from loyal.

I am always watching videos of foods from different parts of the world, and it is so amazing how each region, country or city can take certain fruits and vegetables and use them in a way I would have never imagined on my own. I will see something and head to the store to gather everything I need to make it just so I can try it at home. One of my favorite people to watch goes to different places, and he tries food that, when really good, makes his head lean to the side and kind of swivel while he says, “mmmmmmmm”. When he does that head lean, I know it is some really great eats, and I have to make it happen in my kitchen.

While visiting Lebanon, his head leaned while trying an eggplant and tomato dish. I knew I had to try it. I made a few adjustments, and even though it was a completely meatless dish, my family went gaga over it… did I mention it has eggplant in it–something my crew of bandits absolutely never liked! Imagine my surprise when not one but all of them asked for more. This dish is so hearty and so filling and just oh so worth it! It has been added to the family recipe book; that is one thing for certain. edm

LEBANESE-INSPIRED PITA Ingredients: • Pita Bread • 1 eggplant (cut into cubes) • 1 cup cherry tomatoes • 1 zucchini (sliced) • 1/4 cup olive oil • 3 cloves garlic (chopped) • ½ red onion (diced) • ½ chicken bouillon cube • ½ cup water • Black pepper to taste • ½ tsp dried mint • Salt to taste (the chicken bouillon has sodium, so taste before adding salt into the mix!)

LABNEH (YOGURT SAUCE) Ingredients: • 2 cups Greek yogurt • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint • Juice of 1 lemon • ½ tsp salt (or to taste) 1. Mix all ingredients in a bowl and refrigerate until ready to use.

1. On medium heat, cook onions and garlic in the olive oil until the onions are translucent. Add in remaining ingredients and cook on lower heat until eggplant, zucchini and tomatoes are soft in texture. Make sure they do not get mushy but soft.

2. Remove from heat and scoop into pita bread. Serve hot and with yogurt sauce and fresh lemon wedges.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 13

{ fresh from the farm }

Cedar Hill Farm:

A Family Outing for All the Seasons

BY BRANDI PERRY

L

ocated just a few miles south of Memphis, Tennesse, in Hernando, Cedar Hill Farm is a family-run farm that is easily one of the best agritourism businesses in the entire South. If you have never visited the Foster Family at their awardwinning farmstead, you need to.

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Mike and Martha Foster opened the farm to the public in 1996, and their oldest son Robert and his wife Heather took over in 2006. They are consistently making improvements and additions to the already impressive farm, but visitors are sure to find something even more spectacular each time they drive over

those rolling hills. Surrounded by cedar trees lined with fences, the 120-acre farm offers some of the most fun families can have in one place. Even though it is a working farm, there remains a quiet stillness to the property that is hard to explain. Every season brings a different reason to take your family to Cedar Hill for a day, and it will be one they will never forget.

One of the first things people think about when you hear about a farm is their delicious homecooked meals. Cedar Hill Farm did not miss the mark with The Barn, The Country Kitchen or The Country Store. The Country Kitchen is a snack bar of sorts that is open every time the farm is open for seasonal public events, like Easter egg hunts, Fireworks on the Farm, the pumpkin patch and Christmas season festivities. Their food includes everything from hamburgers and chicken strips to barbecue nachos and a double cheeseburger. In addition

to waters and sodas for drinks, the snack bar also offers hot chocolate, fresh-squeezed lemonade and even a cider slush. Still a little hungry or need a side item for your meal? No worries!

Ice cream, donuts, caramel apples and funnel cakes will fill you up!

The Barn at Cedar Hill Farm is by far one of the best restaurants in the state when it comes to home cooking. Their menu is expansive and includes plates like Mississippi Fried Catfish, Hand-Breaded Tenders, burgers, steak and more.

Additionally, they are open a few weekends out of the month for brunch! The plates you can choose from at brunch are pancakes, biscuits and gravy, waffles, chicken and waffles, and steak and eggs or you can choose from a variety of eggs plates.

Farm fresh homemade donuts are served complimentary with any plate order, and they are out of this world delicious. A eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 15

perfect day at the Farm would be to enjoy brunch, explore the farm for the rest of the day, then make your way back for dinner. Their food will take you back to grandmother’s house when times were simpler and there were no worries in the world.

The Country Store will have your stepping back when general stores dotted the backroads of the state. From the store, you can take home homemade fudge, donuts and many other sweet treats. Just like any country store, Cedar Hill Farm’s store has jellies and jams, local honey from the farm, free-range chicken eggs, and fresh produce when it is in season. If you visit the farm, the country store is a must-see. The honey is extracted from hives on the farm used to pollinate the fruits, berries and vegetables that grow so abundantly on the farm. The honey is not heated or cooked, just placed straight into jars. People are starting to realize that unadulterated honey is great for allergy relief and is a healthy option for sweetening foods and drinks.

Due to the demand, the Fosters are planning to continue to grow their hive and bee population.

In addition to that delicious honey, Cedar Hill Farm also 16 • February/March 2022

sells free-range chicken eggs. Even though the USDA does not specify how long chickens must be allowed outside to be labeled free-range, Cedar Hill Farm allows their hens to roam a two-acre fenced area from sunup to sundown. Some studies say open-range eggs are better for consumers because they pack a better nutritional punch than any other egg. By providing more vitamin D and less cholesterol, they are a sure bet to improve your overall health. The farm sells their free-range eggs for $3.50 a dozen or $7.50 for a two and a half dozen flat. You can save fifty cents if you bring your own container. Even though they usually have plenty of eggs on hand, call ahead to make sure they have what you need!

There is nothing like an Easter egg hunt. Some of the favorite memories of kids are searching for eggs over a big yard and seeing who can find the most. Cedar Hill Farm takes Easter egg hunts to an entirely different level. The egg hunts occur throughout the day, and when the kids get bored of searching for eggs, they can ride ponies, pet the farm animals and get their faces painted. After a long day of fun and eating homemade fudge and donuts, a picture with the Easter Bunny

is sure to bring an end to one of the most perfect days ever.

Cedar Hill Farm also offers children an opportunity to get a behind-the-scenes look at the farm during summer camp. These camps are a week at a time and cost $195 a week. Some of the activities the kids are involved in during this time are seeds and planting, berry picking and jelly making, Dairy 101, honey extraction and fire safety. It is a time your children will never forget. These camps are only available a few weeks a summer, so make sure you check their website regularly to find the dates and to get them registered.

Cedar Hill Farm is also a perfect location for family or company picnics and family and school reunions. With two large pavilions, barn loft, barn hall and produce stand all offering more than 10,000 square feet of space, the far can easily accommodate up to 2,000 people comfortably.

Private events also get to choose from several dining options and entertainment choices. When people are planning such activities, it is hard to work with a limited budget, but the folks at the Farm can work with the biggest or smallest budget and will make sure it is one you will not forget. Other private events are possible at the farm. Give them a call today about your event.

With Easter egg hunting in the spring, berry picking in the summer, a pumpkin patch and corn maze in the fall and choosing and cutting your own Christmas tree in the winter, Cedar Hill Farm offers some of the most fun you can have with your family. Great food and activities ensure you will be back for every season.

Even though hours are seasonal and depend on events happening on the Farm, Cedar Hill Farm is closed on Thanksgiving, Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. The Christmas tree farm is open from late November to the weekend before Christmas. Usually, the farm is open Monday through Friday from 9 am to 5 pm. On Saturday, the hours are 10 am to 5 pm, and Sunday from 11 am to 5 pm. Make sure you follow them on social media on Twitter, Facebook, YouTube and Instagram. If you need to get in touch with the farm, give them a call at (662) 429-2540 or email them at cedarhfarm@yahoo.com.

This Mississippi Agritourism farm is by far one of the best activities in the Southeast, and it is so easy to see why. edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 17

Super Delicious Dips 18 • February/March 2022

BY LISA LAFONTAINE BYNUM

T

here are three types of people who watch the Super Bowl: the ones who are invested in the game, the ones who are only in it for the commercials and the ones who come for the food. Regardless of which camp you fall in, be sure to leave some room on your plate for these three hearty and delicious dip recipes. Pass the chips, please! edm

For the Big Game eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 19

Mississippi Sin Dip

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C

Cowboy Caviar

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 21

MISSISSIPPI SIN DIP SERVES 6 Ingredients: • 1 ½ cups sour cream • 2 ½ cups shredded cheddar cheese, divided • 1/3 cup chopped green onions • 1 (8 oz.) package cream cheese, softened • 1/2 cup chopped ham • 1/3 cup chopped green chiles • 2-3 dashes Worcestershire sauce • 1 loaf crusty bread 1. Mix the sour cream, two cups of shredded cheese, green onions, cream cheese, chopped ham, green chiles and Worcestershire sauce in a large mixing bowl. Beat until everything is evenly combined.

2. Slice the top third off of the bread loaf. Set aside. Using a spoon or clean hands, carve out the interior of the loaf of bread, leaving a one-inch border. Reserve the bread you spooned out for dipping.

3. Spread the dip into the hollowed-out bread. Top the dip with the remaining shredded cheddar cheese. Wrap the bread bowl completely in foil.

3. Transfer mixture to a large bowl. Stir in beans, black-eyed peas, corn, green onions, olive oil and red wine vinegar.

4. Cover and refrigerate for six hours, stirring occasionally.

5. Season with salt and pepper to taste just before serving.

BAKED ARTICHOKE DIP WITH BROCCOLI SERVES 6 Ingredients: • 1/2 cup Parmesan cheese • 1 clove garlic minced • 1 (10 ounce) package frozen chopped broccoli, thawed and drained • 1 (14 ounce) can artichoke hearts, drained • 1 (8 ounce) container soft garlic-chive cream cheese • 2 large eggs • 1-1/2 cups shredded mozzarella cheese divided • 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes to taste To make:

4. Bake for one hour.

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

5. Serve as a dip with the hollowed-out bread, crackers or chips.

2. Mix the first five ingredients in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse until broccoli and artichoke hearts are coarsely chopped and evenly mixed with the cheese.

3. Add eggs and continue to mix until eggs are wellincorporated.

COWBOY CAVIAR SERVES 6 Ingredients: • 1 bunch fresh cilantro • 5 Roma tomatoes • 1 medium yellow onion, peeled and roughly chopped • 1/2 red onion, peeled and roughly chopped • 2 cloves garlic minced • 1 whole medium jalapeno pepper, seeded • 1 (15-oz.) can black beans, drained • 1 (15-oz.) can black-eyed peas, drained • 1 (15-oz.) can whole kernel corn, drained • 1/2 cup chopped green onions • 4 tablespoons olive oil • 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar • Salt and pepper to taste 1. Wash cilantro and remove stems.

2. Roughly chop tomatoes, onions, garlic and jalapeno.

Place it in the bowl of a food processor with the cilantro and process until slightly chunky and ingredients are well incorporated. If you don’t have a food processor, chop everything by hand.

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4. Transfer mixture to a medium mixing bowl. Mix in 1 cup of the mozzarella and red pepper flakes, if desired.

5. Transfer mixture to an 8 x 8 x 2-inch baking dish or a nine-inch round pie plate. Sprinkle remaining mozzarella cheese over the top.

6. Bake for 20-25 minutes until the dip is hot and bubbly and the top starts to turn golden brown.

Baked Artichoke

Dip with Broccoli eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 23

The Crosstie Festival: An Annual Tradition in the Mississippi Delta

BY BRANDI PERRY

C

leveland, Mississippi, uses the slogan “Small Town, Big Vibe” to describe their Delta town. Accolades from Southern Living and Smithsonian Magazine prove this as well as many other mentions from various magazines nationwide. There is no doubt that Cleveland is one of the hippest towns in the state, but much of that acclaim is thanks to a 50-year-old spring tradition.

Named for the infamous rail lines that have run through small Mississippi towns throughout the state for more than 100 years, the rails can also symbolize the blues musicians who crisscrossed the state, laying the roots for the blues, country, gospel and jazz music around the world. With Delta State University having one of the best music programs in the country and surrounded by legendary locations like Dockery Farms and Po Monkeys, it is easy to see why the Crosstie Festival Arts and Jazz Festival is not only one of the longest-lived festivals in the state, but one of the most famous in the nation.

A creative and motivated group of individuals came together more than 50 years ago and decided their vibrant and growing community needed a festival to celebrate its rich history in arts and culture. Keep in mind there were no marketing firms, internet or billboards to post all over the state to draw a crowd. Instead, the hardworking volunteers hit the ground running and focused on word of mouth and building

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a reputation for their festival. Now, every year more volunteers follow the footprints of those from the past with the spirit to make each year’s event better than the year before. This fun and determined spirit are the essence of the Crosstie Festival and are also a product of the volunteer spirit found in so many small towns around the state that work hard for the betterment of their entire community. This is Cleveland.

Another fun fact about the festival concerns the nationally recognized Crosstie Festival logo. The golden yellow that adorns the center of the logo was not done on purpose to draw eyes to the logo. In the 1970s, this yellow just happened to be the cheapest and brightest material at the fabric store. As years have passed and the notoriety of the festival has spread, someone could have easily changed the color to something fresher than the lightning bolt of gold, but again, the work done to start this festival deserves to be remembered, and the logo remains a testament to the hard work and dedication that got the festival off the ground and still running today.

Starting in 1970, the Crosstie Festival has been held under the oak trees of the Bolivar County Courthouse in downtown Cleveland, not too far from the railroad track that winds its way through Bolivar County and into the city center and where the first festival was held. The 2021 festival was abbreviated due to the spread of the coronavirus statewide, but planners

and participants did everything they could to make it the most normal and enjoyable event ever. Now, the 2022 festival will be an all-day event again, and they are ready to make up for everything they missed out on last year.

This year’s event will occur on April 23, 2022, in downtown Cleveland. The festival will host a juried fine art show that features hundreds of exhibitors from around the country. These exhibitors will display everything from paintings, sculptures, pottery, fabric and paper designs, hand-made furniture and jewelry. Additionally, handcrafts will be sold in a marketplace area, and food vendors and trucks will offer a variety of regional meals, desserts and drinks that make certain no one leaves hungry. All the fun for the day kicks off with a 5k road race that is safe and fun for all ages with both serious and fun competitors.

If you are interested in displaying your work as an artist, please go to the Crosstie Festival website, fill out the artist application and email three photos or slides of your work. There is a $35 fee that reserves a 10x12 space and allows competition

pieces in any combination of the categories listed on the site. Keep in mind reservations are on a first-come, first-serve basis, so sign up today.

Being a member or sponsor of the Crosstie Festival has its benefits but none better than ensuring that this festival’s longevity continues.

Becoming a member allows you to get an in-depth look at all the workings and contests that go on before and during the festival. Being involved financially ensures that scholarships can be given to deserving students, assist with the Junior Auxiliary’s Children’s Art and Writing Contest and supports art education in local schools. Corporate sponsors and membership levels range from $2,500 to $50, and each donation is equally important to make sure the mission of the Crosstie Festival remains intact for many more years to come.

Attending the Crosstie Festival may be a highlight of your spring. From arts and crafts to music and great food, there is no better way to spend time in the Delta. Visit the Crosstie Festival website at crosstiefestival. com and sign up with your email address to receive exclusive information on the festival news and updates.

The committee in charge of the festival makes it very easy for you to get in touch with them. You can email them at crosstiefestival@gmail.com or follow them on Facebook or Instagram. Their social media pages may update more often with information about the festival than the website so make sure you subscribe and follow!

The Crosstie Festival is ready to show visitors they are ready to bounce back from the near shutdown created by the coronavirus and are back and better than ever. If you are looking for a good time, you need to be in Cleveland on April 23, 2022. edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 25

The Farmstead on Woodson Ridge

BY SUSAN MARQUEZ

I

nside a rustic barn, nestled in a field of flowers and overlooking a beautiful lake, the bustle of women chopping, mixing and setting oven timers is accented with laughter and a few squeals of delight. The instructor gets everyone’s attention as she explains the next step in the recipe.

Tracy Morgan is the instructor of the dinner experience at The Farmstead on Woodson Ridge, located a short ten-minute drive from The Square in Oxford.

The elegant-yet-rustic charm of the original working barn is the perfect location for a group to gather and cook. The barn has been completely renovated and features a state-of-the-art catering kitchen.

Sandy and Anne Sharpe own the 128-acre property. Their daughter, Kathryn, farms the flowers on the property that are sold in various locations around Oxford, as well as used for floral arrangements and bouquets for the many weddings held on the property. The Sharpes acquired the property in 2005, and in 2011 they opened The Farmstead. There are 15 cottages on the property with the potential for 30 to 35. The innovative cottages offer lockout floorplans to accommodate almost any type of overnight stay. It is ideal for groups, families and

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corporate retreats.

Susan Tullos is the hospitality director at The Farmstead. “I customize retreats for families, girls’ retreats or corporations. I can organize cooking classes, art retreats or anything your heart desires (within reason) for those gatherings,” Tullos says.

Cooking experiences are the most popular events at The Farmstead, and Tracy enjoys working with groups to find the perfect dishes to teach. She recently had a group of women from Texas, and Tracy provided an Italian cooking experience for them. “It was a girl’s trip,” she says. “They go somewhere different every year. One of the women had a daughter at Ole Miss, so they came to Oxford.” The women made their own pasta by hand and learned how to make different sauces. “We made fettuccine, two different sauces, meatballs, salad and individual tiramisus for dessert.”

Tracy has been teaching cooking classes to friends in her home “forever.” Her dad owned a restaurant in Laurel when she was growing up, and she learned her way around a kitchen by watching him. “I grew up chopping, stirring and cooking,” she says. She cooked professionally for many years for a friend who owned a local catering service.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 27

Cooking and teaching in the Farmstead kitchen is a dream for Tracy. “It is a true gourmet kitchen, with three cooking stations and a huge island. It is ideal for teaching. I try to do very interactive and fun classes. Making a meal together is a great bonding experience and so much fun. Folks come in all dressed up and not sure what they’re going to be doing. I put one of my grandmother’s vintage aprons on each person and let them know they are in for an enjoyable time!”

The options for the cooking experiences Tracy can provide at the Farmstead are endless. “I do a grilling class, and there is a pizza oven, so I can teach people how to make their own wood-fired pizzas. I am Lebanese and grew up making Lebanese food. In May, I’ll be teaching a Lebanese cooking class for a wedding party. I’m really looking forward to that.” Tracy says she also loves teaching Spanish cooking, including paella and tapas, as well as baking classes.

For more information on The Farmstead at Woodson Ridge and Tracy Morgan’s cooking classes, visit the Farmstead website at www.thefarmsteadwr.com. edm

28 • February/March 2022

The History Behind Creole

BY JULIAN BRUNT

I

t’s curious that if you make gumbo and add tomatoes in southern Louisiana and New Orleans, it becomes a Creole gumbo. The Creole tomato is a specialty of the region, and I don’t think it is found anywhere else. When in season, a pickup truck with the tailgate down and a friendly farmer sitting there on the side of the road is happy to sell you his prized tomatoes for gumbo or anything else you might like to make.

However, I find it odd that just the addition of tomato would change the nature of a dish enough to give it another name. When I think of Creole, I do not think of tomatoes, but of New Orleans, in a very sort of uptown way, if you know what I mean. Interestingly, some people associate Cajun with New Orleans, but they are mistaken. They are two cultures that are completely different, my friend, much more different than gumbo with or without tomato.

The Cajuns were the French Catholics expelled from Canada after the Great Expulsion during the French and British hostilities in the mid-1700s. Historically speaking, Cajuns had nothing at all to do with the big city Creoles of New Orleans.

The Cajuns were proud fishermen and farmers that lived in that neither world of coastal marsh, bayou and low fields perfect for sugar cane. The Creoles walked St. Charles Avenue, Esplanade and Canal Street with no fear of a muddy shoe.

Originally the Creoles were people born in Louisiana, typically wealthy, whose parents were born in Spain or France, but that definition has changed over the years. But there were other peoples that called themselves Creoles, too. Haitians, Brazilians and people from other Caribbean islands and South America, who were of mixed heritage: Africans, Spanish, French and others, all called themselves Creole. Today, being a Creole more often than not means belonging to an ethnic group that originated during the colonial period and involved West African and other peoples born in the colonies. Isn’t it curious how definitions change?

One of the byproducts of this ethnic mixing is one of the most glorious food cultures in the world. Who would have thought to combine French and other European traditions with African, West Indies, Native American and traditional Deep South food?

It is a glorious gumbo of culinary ideas like no other and, like the

Creole tomato, can be found nowhere else.

I would describe a restaurant like Herbsaint on St. Charles in New Orleans as Creole, although they describe themselves as seasonal French and Southern cuisine. To me, classic Creole is French food using local ingredients and French techniques.

Gumbo is another example, probably derived from French bouillabaisse.

Shrimp Creole made with tomatoes and etouffee are good Creole dishes, although both are now popular with both Cajuns and Creoles.

But in truth, just like the definition of Creole, today Cajun and Creole foods do not have any clear lines of distinction and share much in common. A good Creole chef would tell you his food is a bit more sophisticated, but a Cajun cook would insist that his food may not be fancy but is just better. So, it goes.

The food of the Deep South, which contributed to both Cajun and Creole food, came from people from northern Europe, England and Scotland, and who were primarily Protestant and Baptist. The food is not as spicy and depends largely on veggies from the garden, animals from the farm, fishing and hunting. The food of the South included greens, cornbread, peas, beans, lots of pork and, of course, fried chicken. The classic Southern restaurant is a small-town diner and has nothing fancy about it at all.

Cajun food has been incorrectly thought of today as spicy, but it was not originally so. Thank Chef Paul Prudhomme for that misconception.

Cajun had fewer French influences and was focused on local ingredients harvested by poor farmers and fishermen on the Louisiana coast. Cayenne was not a big part of their pantry. Today, the most important seasoning is Tony Chachere’s Creole Seasoning and Tabasco.

The differences in Cajun and Creole have mellowed over the years, as has the definition of what being a Creole is. Not so with our Cajun friends, it is a very distinct culture, and until just a few years ago, if you did not speak their dialect of French, you just might have a hard time talking to the older folks. But, putting those differences aside, these two closely related cultures produce some of the most wonderful food in the country. How dull would life be without gumbo, a crab or shrimp boil, a fully dressed oyster po’boy or red beans and rice with lots of spicy sausages? edm eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 29

I c e and V ic e : Cha n gi n g the L i ve s o f F oster Chi l dren i n M i ssi ssip p i

BY BRANDI PERRY, PHOTOS BY DORI LOWE

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id you know that Madison is home to one of the most unique ice cream and coffee shops in the entire state? They offer more than 16 varieties of gelato, frozen yogurt and soft-serve ice cream, caffeinated options, as well as low-glycemic index, dairy-free and veganfree options! But still, their story is so much deeper and sweeter.

Sarah Dale Harmon and her husband Justin always wished there was somewhere to go late, other than bars.

When an Orange Leaf franchise went out, they decided to buy their equipment and take a chance on making their dream come true. Before they opened, they wanted to be different than any other froyo place, and they have accomplished just that. Their unique selection of flavors and products has people driving from all over the state to experience what they are serving.

The ice cream (Ice) is their own soft-serve house recipe.

The flavors may range from Blue Moon to egg nog and even lavender and Texas Peanut Butter. One of their most popular items is the Dole Whip sorbet that comes in cherry, lemon, lime, mango, orange, pineapple, strawberry and watermelon. Most businesses use one vendor to supply all their ice cream needs, but the Harmons decided on many different sources to meet their needs, and you can taste the difference. They wanted to meet the needs of diabetic people

30 • February/March 2022

or those watching their caloric intake, and they have done that by offering keto and low sugar options.

Do not worry; it does not taste like a diet product. Kids are always happy when they visit Ice and Vice for their unique toppings. At any given time, you may find rose petals, pumpkin seeds, bacon bits, full-sized pop-tarts and even crushed wavy chips! The unique flavors are not by accident, and the Harmons pride themselves on creating the flavors.

“My husband and I are huge foodies, and anytime we travel, we spend weeks researching the food scene and finding out where and what we should eat,” explains Sarah Dale. “Our favorite places are always the ones with the most adventurous menus, and we try to mimic those risk-taking flavors and tastes when it comes to our ice cream, cotton candy and energy drinks,” she remarked. “I love researching flavor combinations and recipes. We create a lot of our flavors and recipes in-house. For example, our buttered popcorn gelato and our cookie butter gelato are recipes we created. Other custom-created fan-favorite flavors are our honey gelato and lavender gelato. The lavender gelato has a huge fan following, which surprised me! But people ask for it all the time,” Harmon continued.

But this is so much more than your typical ice cream shop. The energy drinks contain something most Mississippians are not aware of yet: allnatural Lotus energy. This ingredient provides plenty of energy minus the sugar.

It is like the loaded teas that are so popular now, with far fewer ingredients. If coffee is your Vice, they can help you start your day with that or lattes. You can decide on many flavors for the energy drink. There are several predetermined recipes, or you can make your own by choosing a base, club soda or Red Bull, then the Lotus flavor, and what two other flavors you want. There is no bad combination of flavors.

There is a lot more to this incredible business. They offer more than 50 snow cone flavors year-round. They also offer gourmet cones from New York that includes the flavors Pink Vanilla, Orange Cream and Black Charcoal. There are not many places you can find home-spun cotton candy. A

special part of their cotton candy is something called a Cloud Cone, and some of the more unique flavors are kiwi, root beer, coffee, champagne and pina colada.

Even still, the mission of Ice and Vice shocks some visitors that do not know the story. Foster children play a huge role in the success of the shop, and that was not by accident. The mission of Ice and Vice is built around supporting children in foster care and the young adults who have aged out of foster care. Their employment program gives children in care and those who have aged out an opportunity to gain work experience in a trauma-informed atmosphere. Ice and Vice employs 15 teenagers—60% are great teens from the community while the rest are in foster care, have aged out or were adopted from care. A few live in a group home at Methodist Children’s Home, and the house moms drive them to and from work. The house moms really make huge sacrifices for the children to experience a little bit of normalcy. They offer continuing education opportunities and workshops for employees, along with a transportation program for those that need it.

Throughout the year, they raise funds for their biannual transportation scholarship to help the youth in care buy their first vehicle. The reason the Harmons decided to focus their mission on foster children is that they have a great deal of experience with the foster system. It is close to their hearts because all four of their children were adopted out of foster care, and they were therapeutic foster parents for five years with Methodist Children’s Home. “It was one of the most beautiful and brutal experiences of our lives. You know things you wish you did not, and you know things you wish everyone knew. But at the end of the day, we need more foster parents in Mississippi,” Sarah Dale recalled.

Madison and the surrounding community have been so wonderful to Sarah Dale, Justin and their business, and

they know that Ice and Vice is there to stay. But that does not mean that you won’t see a mobile Ice and Vice in the future that they can take to festivals and other events. Not only would they be able to distribute their incredible product to more people, but also share their special mission across the state.

When asked where they hope Ice and Vice will be in five years, Sarah Dale answered, “In five years, I hope I have helped five more foster kids get their first vehicle and continue to be a place for families to create lifelong memories and traditions.”

Patrons need to be on the lookout for more crazy, delicious treats that will be coming from the Harmons soon, and keep your eyes out for their new adventure coming soon!

If you are planning a visit, they are located at 1022 US-51 in Madison, Mississippi. Monday through Thursday, they are open from 12 pm to 9:30 pm, Fridays they are open from 12 pm to 12 am, Saturday from 1 pm to 12 am, and Sunday from 1 pm to 9:30 pm. If you need any more information, please reach out to them at (769) 257-9952 or info@iceandvicems.com. edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 31

From Mississippi to Beyond Pat Martin: A Legacy of Whole Hog BBQ

BY KATHY K. MARTIN

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ost of the classic Southern dishes on Pat Martin’s restaurant menus come from his family’s recipes.

“The hushpuppies are my grandma’s recipe, and the Mississippi fried catfish fillets are breaded with my paw paw’s recipe,” he says of the menu items at Martin’s Bar-B-Que Joint.

Although Pat Martin was born in Memphis, he spent his summers in Corinth with both sets of grandparents, who he says were all legendary cooks.

He recalls Saturday nights spent with his Paw Paw, who fried catfish outside in their carport while his grandma made hushpuppies, French fries and all the fixings in the kitchen. He learned from them and later found his niche in West Tennessee-style whole hog barbecue while he was in college.

That niche grew into 10 Martin’s Bar-B-Que Joint restaurants

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and three Hugh Baby’s BBQ & Burger Shops since the first Martin’s opened in October of 2006 in Nolensville, Tennessee.

Most of his restaurants are located in the Nashville area (also Birmingham, Alabama; Louisville, Kentucky; and Charleston, South Carolina), where he lives with his wife, Martha Ann, and his three children.

When his family moved back to Corinth while he was in high school, Martin’s passion for cooking grew. By the time he was attending Freed-Hardeman University, he had already bought a cookbook that focused on grilling. He discovered the nuances of whole hog cooking from Harold Thomas, who owned Thomas & Webb Barbecue in Henderson, Tennessee, where he spent time in the pit room learning as he watched. “I wasn’t on the payroll, but I tried to help and just be around all the action as I learned.”

He describes the West Tennessee whole hog as a larger hog cooked at a slower temperature, which makes the meat pull right off the bone. “My roots are all in this type of cooking,” he says of the process. His most popular menu items are his ribs, which come flavored with a Memphis-style dry rub and a sweet vinegar sauce, as well as a dish that’s called the Notorious Redneck Taco: a cornbread hoecake with a choice of pulled pork, beef brisket, smoked chicken, smoked turkey or catfish topped with slaw and his own Jack’s Creek Bar-B-Que Sauce.

With his Corinth roots, every Friday night at his Hugh Baby’s restaurants, diners can feast on a slug burger. This Depression-era favorite, made with ground meat, flour, soy grits or another extender, was created and made popular in Corinth. And as everyone across Mississippi knows, the slug burger contains no slugs and got its name from originally selling for a nickel or a “slug.”

While you won’t find Martin cooking barbecue at home, he does braise root vegetables in the winter and grills okra in the summer. “I prefer simple and straightforward cooking with just salt and chili flakes with some acid from lemon or lime instead of a marinade.”

His advice for getting started with barbecue is to begin small in both the meat size and the time required to cook.

“Learn the touch and feel of it. Don’t rush it and stop overthinking it.” He suggests starting with spatchcocking a whole chicken or barbecuing spare ribs and using just salt, chili flakes and some sugar without worrying about complicated ingredients and special wood chips for cooking.

Martin plans to continue to build his restaurant business and include a few of his passion projects with elevated dining concepts. And the best news for Mississippi is that he also plans to build a home in Corinth and transition back to his Mississippi roots.

Martin’s new cookbook, “Life of Fire,” is currently available for pre-sale and will be in stores by mid-March. edm

ahead, and might actually be a little better after it’s had time to sit. We use our famous Alabama White Sauce to dress the salad, and that’s all you need. A little mayo will tighten it up, but our signature sauce flavor is all the seasoning required. If you want to add some nuts into the salad, sunflower kernels make a great addition and add a nice extra crunch.

MARTIN’S BAR-B-QUE BROCCOLI SALAD FROM PITMASTER PAT MARTIN • 4-6 cups broccoli florets • ¾ cup diced red onion • ¾ cup shredded sharp cheddar cheese • ¾ cup crumbled bacon • ¾ cup raisins • 1 cup Martin’s Bar-B-Que Alabama White Sauce or other white barbecue sauce • 1 tablespoon Mayonnaise Directions In a large bowl, combine broccoli, onion, cheese, bacon and raisins. In a separate bowl, whisk together Alabama White Sauce and mayonnaise. Pour dressing over salad and toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate before serving.

About One of the Bar-B-Que Joint’s most famous and popular side items is the Broccoli Salad. It’s cool and crunchy and it’s got bacon and cheese in it. After coleslaw, it’s just about the perfect thing to eat with some pulled pork or smoked brisket. Now the salad we serve at our Joints is a secret “Church of Christ Salad” recipe from Pat Martin’s grandmother, and of course he can’t divulge it, but we wanted to give you something that will be easy to recreate at home and satisfy that craving when you can’t make it to our place for the real thing.

Like many of our other recipes, this salad can be made

MARTIN’S BAR-B-QUE TENNESSEE ‘QUE POTATO SALAD FROM PITMASTER PAT MARTIN SERVES 3-4 • • • • • • • • •

3 lbs golden potatoes, cut into 1-inch pieces 6 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and chopped 1 ½ cups diced celery 1 cup diced red onion 1 cup sliced green onion 1 cup chopped sweet pickles 2 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon pepper 1/2 cup mustard BBQ sauce (like Martin’s Bar-B-Que Palmetto Gold Sauce) • 1 cup mayonnaise Directions 1. In a large pot, cover potatoes with cool water. Add a pinch of salt and place on high heat to bring to a boil. Boil potatoes until tender, about 10-12 minutes. Drain potatoes and transfer to a large mixing bowl.

2. Once the potatoes have cooled, add the remaining ingredients and stir to combine. Cover potato salad with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to serve.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 33

{ mississippi made }

Yolande van Heerden: A Place for Everyone

F

BY SUSAN MARQUEZ

ork on the left. Knife and spoon on the right. It is the classic art of setting a proper table, and it is a skill that must be learned. Yolande van Heerden of Greenwood says she has vivid memories of family meals in her native South Africa. “I had to set the table every night as a child,” she recalls. “I remember my mother had black and red disks made of sisal, and she never upgraded from that. We used cloth napkins at each meal because we were too poor to buy paper napkins. Each meal used a knife, spoon, fork, butter knife and sometimes a fish fork or dessert spoon.”

As an adult, Yolande has spent many years teaching art to pre-school children. “I’m very well versed with the Montessori style of teaching.” In August 2021, Yolande had just finished her summer art camps for children, and with no classes planned for the next month, she took a personal holiday. “I had a trip planned to Los Angeles but decided I didn’t want to fly due to Covid concerns. I canceled the trip and instead hunkered down and worked on art for me.”

She began thinking about workshops she might be able to do in the future for both children and adults. Thinking about

34 • February/March 2022

how the pandemic changed the way people socialized with each other, Yolande realized that what we do now is gather around the table and eat. “I started playing with the idea of placemats,” she says. As a fabric artist, Yolande has a plethora of fabrics from all over the world.

“I always take an empty suitcase with me when I visit South Africa.” She started playing with design and shapes and made ten placemats. “I put them up on Facebook at 1:30 in the morning. I was really excited about them. I was filled with the

joy of a newfound idea.” Within ten minutes, a friend bought all ten of the placemats. “That was very exciting for me. My friend told me she thought they were amazing, which was a great affirmation for me.”

Each placemat is like a little painting. “I have a story about each one in my head,” says Yolande. The response she received about the placemats was very positive. “Everybody is excited about them. I had many people place orders for Christmas.”

Many of those orders are for custom designs. “I have a friend in California who wanted four placemats in the shape of dinosaurs. I’ve had requests for unicorns, horseshoes, dogs and cats.” She has also had requests for placemats with plates that feature giant initials. “No two placemats are alike, although there may be some similarities. It’s more interesting for me to design.”

Yolande recently toyed with the idea of using old t-shirts. “I have a stack of personal t-shirts I had as a kid and from when I lived in Hollywood that I no longer wear. I used the logo from my Yo MTV Raps t-shirt and realized that instead of being stuck in drawers, the old t-shirts could be turned into lovely mementos.” Yolande says some may call her a fabric hoarder, but she views herself as a fabric curator. “I never throw away even the smallest piece of fabric.” On her MTV t-shirt, she crafted a cassette tape from a piece of Japanese fabric she held

on to. “It’s positioned to show where the water glass goes.”

When she started making the placemats, Yolande discovered that there is a big web of connection between us all. “Someone I know would tell someone else about the placemats, and the demand for them has grown. I may combine a musty old fabric I bought at an estate sale along with a piece of fabric I purchased from a favorite bazaar in South Africa. I like that something can become something else. We don’t have to live in a disposable world.”

Now, toddlers and children have a fun and straightforward way to learn the proper way to set a table. “The rules we use to set a table come from very practical places,” Yolande explains.

“For example, the blade of a knife should always be facing the plate. If it faces the person sitting next to you, that is a sign of aggression. Also, the knife is placed on the right because most people are right-handed.” Yolande says her placemats have been an enjoyable adventure so far. “The response has been strong, and I see it as a tiny way we can all be more connected.”

For more information on Yolande van Heerden’s placemats, visit her Etsy store at “tomboyART.” edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 35

{ restaurant spotlight }

Thorny Oyster: Elegance and Authenticity

BY JULIAN BRUNT

T

he Pearl Hotel in Bay St. Louis is known for its elegant aesthetics and charm, with lovely rooms and suites looking out on the quaint city and its bay. But what people are really talking about is its restaurant, Thorny Oyster. It’s not a combination you will find in many small Southern towns: a truly classy restaurant in a grand hotel, very European, and I must tell you upfront, Thorny Oyster is one of the best restaurants I have visited in a very long time.

It is beautifully appointed, with blond wooden floors, customdesigned green wallpaper, high ceilings with white glob ceiling lights that look like clusters of grapes. The bar is topped in white marble with black chairs, very classy, but the feature I like the most is the open kitchen, where you can sit at the bar and watch your meal being made.

What is even more impressive is that the restaurant was designed

by Executive Chef Jeffrey Hansell. He started his culinary career as a dishwasher, then moved to a po’boy shop, not exactly an exalted start, but if you can make it 36 • February/March 2022

through the trenches of any busy restaurant, you are on your way to proving your chops. Hansell moved on to culinary school, then Commanders Palace in New Orleans, and finally Birmingham. He recently teamed up with Chef Lauren Joffrion, the sous chef (recently of Fields Steaks and Oysters, also in Bay St. Louis), and the two of them have made a rocket ship start for Thorny Oyster.

I have been following Chef Joffrion for several years and think of her as one of the young rising culinary stars in the South. Everything I have ever had that she prepared was sensational, beautifully plated and creatively conceived. She is also a pastry chef, and it is not often your find a chef that does well on both sides of the kitchen.

I have eaten three times at Thorny Oyster and have been increasingly impressed each time. The grilled oysters were amazing: not overcooked and not over sauced, served with smoky grilled housemade focaccia, perfect for dipping the buttery sauce the oysters were cooked in.

The Florida clams, with house-made chorizo and smoked tomato broth, were “wow” good, as were the mussels and fries, a famous Belgium combination.

All of the desserts that Chef Lauren has made for me were just perfect, as was the spiced pumpkin panna cotta with salted pecan brittle and torched meringue I had during my last visit.

But the one dish I have to rave about is the bouillabaisse. As I am sure

you know, bouillabaisse is a famous French seafood stew, which originated in Marseille.

It is not an easy recipe, and you seldom find it on a menu, but when you do, it is going to be a classy place like Galatoire’s in New Orleans. It is a brave act to include this dish on a menu, and to find it in Bay St. Louis is surprising.

The bouillabaisse at Thorny Oyster is made with fresh seafood, locally caught grouper, Gulf shrimp, mussels and crab claws. The seafood was perfectly cooked, a tough feat with the diversity of seafood in this dish, but what really distinguishes this dish is the sauce. It is light, with hints of saffron, but bursting with flavor, add to that the smoky grilled bread for dipping, and you have a dish that is almost beyond description. Honestly one of the best things I have eaten in years.

It is hard to come up with the right superlative to describe Thorny Oyster. Two of the most talented chefs in the state, a beautifully designed restaurant and food that is beyond compare.

If you are a foodie of any caliber, no matter how far away you live, you have to check this place out. A night at The Pearl and a meal or two at Thorny Oyster would make for a very fond memory indeed.

Thorny Oyster 104 North Beach Boulevard, Bay St. Louis 228-688-0401 edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 37

{ from the bookshelf }

“The Skinnytaste Cookbook” by Gina Homolka Article by Paige McKay-White

A

t the beginning of every year, everyone makes the promise to themselves to be healthy and eat better.

Eating healthier and lighter doesn’t have to be boring, and with the help of The Skinnytaste Cookbook, eating healthy can be fun and delicious. Skinnytaste author Gina Homolka prides herself in her slimmed-down, lower-calorie recipes that are perfect for any lifestyle and have all the flavor of heavier dishes. Several of the recipes are even gluten-free, fat-free, and/ or vegetarian, which makes them great for any dietary lifestyle.

Skinnytaste opens up with “The Skinny Basics,” which is essentially a guide on how to tackle eating healthier. It offers tips on meal prepping, grocery shopping, kitchen basics to keep on hand and how to portion your meals.

After a quick lesson on where to begin with this cookbook, the recipes start with the “Sunny Mornings” section with lots of tasty breakfast options. Find recipes like PB&J Overnight Oats, a Winter Potato, Kale and Sausage Frittata, Chocolate Chip Pancakes, and Cali Avocado Sandwich.

After breakfast, dive into “Skinny-licious Soups and Chilis” with options like Cinnamon-Roasted Butternut Squash Soup, Edamame Soup, Unstuffed Cabbage Soup, Chicken Pot Pie Soup, and Slow Cooker Santa Fe Chicken. Following a bowl of soup, there should always be a sandwich involved. Recipes for “Sandwiches on the Lighter Side” include Buffalo Chicken Melts, Greek Salad Pita Pizzas, Grilled Steak Sandwiches, Pear and Brie Grilled Cheese, French Bread Pizza Supreme and Summer Lobster Rolls. These sandwiches and melts have all the savory without the guilt of heavy deli sandwiches.

If you’re looking for light appetizers, look for “Skinny Bites” like Caliente Bean and Queso Dip, Loaded “Nacho’’ Potato Skins, Baked Zucchini Sticks, Lemony Herb Hummus, Petite Baked Crab Cakes, Skinny Green Goddess Dip, and Garden Pico De Gallo. Any of these would be perfect for any party or gathering.

When it comes to salads, they don’t have to be boring plates full of just lettuce and tomatoes. Skinnytaste “Fabulous Main-Dish Salads” include salads like Buffalo Chicken Salad, 38 • February/March 2022

Curried Chicken Salad, Wild Salmon Salad, Baja Grilled Flank Steak Salad, Roast Beef and Watercress Pasta Salad, and Greek Chickpea Salad.

If chicken dishes are more your speed when it comes to a main course, check out the “Perfect Poultry” recipes. Options range from Buttermilk Oven “Fried” Chicken to Cajun Chicken Pasta on the Lighter Side, Skinny Chicken Parmesan, Chicken Pasta Caprese, and Asian Peanut Noodles with Chicken. Or, if you prefer heartier meats, Lean Meat Dishes include Mongolian Beef and Broccoli, Colombian Carne Asada, Teriyaki Grilled Pork Chops, Grilled Lamb Skewers, and Sunday Night Roast Beef and Gravy.

Seafood lovers, you have not been overlooked. Choose from “Fabulous Fish” dishes like Sweet ‘n’ Spicy Sriracha Glazed Salmon, Shrimp and Grits, Cilantro Lime Shrimp, Thai Coconut Mussels, Spanish Seafood Stew, and Skinny Shrimp, Chicken, and Sausage Gumbo.

Whether you eat fully vegetarian/meatless or you’re just looking to lessen your meat intake, Skinnytaste also includes a “Meatless Mains” section chock full of veggie-filled recipes.

Included are dishes like Quinoa Stuffed Peppers, Creamy Carrot Farrotto, Black Bean Burrito Bowls, Skinny Broccoli Mac and Cheese, Chickpea and Potato Curry, and Spicy Black Bean Burgers, Butternut Squash Lasagna Rolls.

Along with meatless sides, you can also find “Veggie-licious Sides” like Cheese Cauliflower Mash, Roasted Sesame Green Beans, Lemon-Roasted Asparagus, Maple Roasted Acorn Squash, Quinoa Tabbouleh, Grilled Mexican Corn Salad, and Vegetable Fried Brown Rice.

When it comes to dessert, it seems nearly impossible to remain mindful or healthy, but these “Skinny Sweet Tooth” dishes defy the odds. Curve any sweets craving with recipes like Double Chocolate Chunk Walnut Cookies, Silky Chocolate Cream Pie, Warm Apple Pear Crumble, Almost Sinful MapleRaisin Bread Pudding, Watermelon Lime Granita, and Matcha Milkshake.

These Skinnytaste recipes are all so delicious that you won’t

even realize that they are lightened up versions of your favorite dishes. Whether you’re looking to eat healthier or are just looking to widen your repertoire of vegetarian, gluten

free, or healthier dishes, Skinnytaste is the perfect place to start. You can find the cookbook online at Amazon or any local book retailer. edm

Buttermilk Oven Fried Chicken Chicken: • 8 chicken drumsticks • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt • 1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika • 1/2 teaspoon poultry seasoning • 1/4 teaspoon garlic powder • 1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper • 1 cup buttermilk • Juice of half a lemon • Cooking spray or oil mister Coating: • 2/3 cup panko bread crumbs • 1/2 cup crushed cornflake crumbs • 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese • 1-1/2 teaspoons kosher salt • 1 teaspoon dried parsley • 1-1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika • 1/2 teaspoon onion powder

• 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder • 1/4 teaspoon chili powder 1. In a medium bowl, season the chicken with salt, paprika, poultry seasoning, garlic powder and black pepper. Pour the buttermilk and lemon juice over the chicken and refrigerate for 6 to 8 hours, preferably overnight.

2. Preheat the oven to 40 degrees F. Place a rack on a baking sheet and lightly spray with oil.

3. In a shallow bowl, combine all coating ingredients.

4. Remove the chicken from the buttermilk, dredge each piece in the crumb mixture, and put pieces onto the prepared baking sheet. Spray the tops of the chicken with oil.

5. Bake until golden brown, about 40 to 45 minutes.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 39

may 6-8, 2022

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Eat. Drink.

Experience.

Award-winning chefs.

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Experience the culinary tradition of the South like never before.

April 23, 2022 In Downtown Meridian Made possible by grants from

40 • February/March 2022

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{ raise your glass }

Springtime Sangria Verde

BY REBECCA FENDING

A

lthough it may seem far away, the first day of spring is actually March 20. What better way to help usher in the season than with a refreshing spring sangria made with locally crafted mead fermented from Mississippi honey?

Sangria originated in Spain, following the Roman path through the Iberian Peninsula, where they planted grapevines.

Since the water was generally unsafe for human consumption during that time, it was common to fortify the water with alcohol and medicinal herbs to kill off any bacteria. This, of course, led to the invention of what we know as sangria—rich wine (originally mixed conservatively with water), herbs and fruit.

The cocktail’s name is a derivative of the Spanish word “sangre” (sanguis, in Latin), which means blood. The nomenclature stuck due to the drink’s color: a deep, vibrant red from the inexpensive table wine, from which it was crafted.

It is widely thought that sangria was introduced to America in the late 1800s. However, the first recorded appearance of sangria by name was at the 1964 World’s Fair in New York, when the Pavilion of Spain served it to visitors from the Taberna Madrid kiosk. Since then, it has become an American favorite.

This lighter, green version of the classic beverage is

everything you need to prepare yourself with spring. With the herbal flavors of fresh mint and basil mixed with the sweet and tart lemony goodness of Pucker Up from Queen’s Reward Meadery, you may need to make two batches! edm

SANGRIA VERDE • 1 bottle of “Pucker Up” from Queen’s Reward Meadery • 1 lime, thinly sliced • ½ English cucumber, sliced • 1 cup honeydew melon, chopped • 1 green apple, seeded and chopped • 2 or 3 sprigs of fresh basil • 2 or 3 sprigs of fresh mint • 3/4 cup St. Germain liqueur • 2 cups sparkling water, chilled • Mint sprigs for garnish

1. In a large pitcher, combine the fresh ingredients.

Lightly muddle until some juice has been extracted.

2. Pour in the wine and St. Germain over the muddled ingredients. Stir and chill for at least one hour. Just before serving, top with sparkling water and stir.

3. Serve in a chilled glass and garnish with a sprig of fresh mint, if desired.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 41

Fresh, Healthy Family Meals Recipes to help boost iron levels, aid plasma donation recovery

C

FAMILY FEATURES

hef Nate Appleman knows how important it is to serve healthy meals to your family – ones they actually want to eat. Before having his first child, he transformed his eating and exercise habits and lost 85 pounds to get on a healthier path.

Now, he’s cooking meals for his family, including 14-year-old Oliver who was diagnosed with Kawasaki Disease as a toddler – an inflammation of the blood vessels that can cause damage to coronary arteries – as a healthy lifestyle is important to help manage the disease. Since Oliver’s diagnosis, Appleman made it his personal mission to create awareness of Kawasaki Disease and for the critical need for plasma donations that many people with the disease rely on for treatment, which is why he partnered with Abbott to bring attention to the need for plasma donations.

Plasma is a powerful part of your blood that supports essential bodily functions. It’s a lifeline for thousands of people who are immune-compromised and live with a variety of chronic and complex diseases. In fact, more than 125,000 Americans rely on medication made from plasma every day, according to the Plasma Protein Therapeutics Association (PPTA).

The COVID-19 pandemic led to a serious shortage of plasma donors – average donations per center in the United States were down approximately 11% during the first few months of 2021 compared to the previous year, further deepening the nearly 20% decline in donations in 2020 compared to 2019, according to the PPTA. Donating plasma is a safe and relatively easy process. Since plasma is replaced in the body within about 24 hours, it can be donated up to twice per week.

With a donation that typically takes between 1-3 hours, you can make a lasting impact by providing lifesaving medicine for patients like Oliver.

It’s a good idea to fuel up with iron-rich foods before and after donating, so Appleman created these fresh, nutritious recipes he loves to serve his family: Marinated Skirt Steak, Lemon Chicken with Roasted Red Onions and Potatoes, and Cheesy Frittata with Veggies.

Learn where you can donate at bethe1donor.abbott.

42 • February/March 2022

Marinated Skirt Steak

Marinated Skirt Steak

Recipe courtesy of chef Nate Appleman on behalf of Abbott Vinaigrette: 1/4 cup oil 1/4 cup fish sauce 1/4 cup rice wine vinegar 1/4 cup water 2 tablespoons raw sugar 1 cup chopped fresh cilantro 1 lime, juice only 1 clove garlic, minced 1 small Thai bird chile or serrano chile, chopped 1/4 head finely shaved green cabbage 1/4 head finely shaved purple cabbage 2 carrots, thinly julienned Skirt steak: 1 1/2 pounds trimmed skirt steak 1/2 cup coconut milk

3 2 1/4 2

cloves garlic, minced tablespoons lime juice cup chopped fresh cilantro tablespoons sriracha salt, to taste 3 cups cooked brown rice 1/2 cup crushed peanuts 1 lime, quartered, for garnish To make vinaigrette: In large bowl, mix oil, fish sauce, rice wine vinegar, water, sugar, cilantro, lime juice, garlic and chile.

Toss cabbage and carrots in vinaigrette; refrigerate until ready to serve.

To make skirt steak: Marinate steak in coconut milk, garlic, lime juice, cilantro, sriracha and salt, to taste, at least 1 hour, or up to 24 hours.

Heat grill to high.

Grill 3-4 minutes each side until medium rare.

Let rest 3 minutes.

Thinly slice steaks against grain and serve with vinaigrette, rice and crushed peanuts; garnish with lime wedges.

Lemon Chicken with Roasted Red Onions and Potatoes

Recipe courtesy of chef Nate Appleman on behalf of Abbott Lemon chicken: 1 whole chicken, cut into eight pieces 1 ounce minced garlic 1/4 teaspoon granulated garlic 1/4 teaspoon paprika 1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika 1/4 teaspoon ground fennel seed 1/4 teaspoon dried oregano 1/4 teaspoon ground coriander 1 tablespoon kosher salt Potatoes: 2 1/2 pounds Yukon gold potatoes salted water oil Cauliflower: 1 head cauliflower salted water ice 2 tablespoons mayonnaise 1 teaspoon tamari or soy sauce 1 tablespoon chopped parsley Lemon Chicken with Roasted Red Onions and Potatoes

Cheesy Frittata with Veggies

Recipe courtesy of chef Nate Appleman on behalf of Abbott Roasted garlic: 2 heads garlic olive oil salt Frittata: oil 2 medium leeks, sliced 8 ounces blanched, chopped broccoli salt, to taste 9 eggs 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley 2 ounces grated Parmigiano Reggiano 2 tablespoons heavy cream

Cheesy Frittata with Veggies

To make roasted garlic: Preheat oven to 400 F. Slice 1/4 inch off entire heads of garlic and place cut sides down in 1-liter casserole dish.

Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with salt; cover with lid.

Bake 35-45 minutes until heads of garlic are soft and light brown. Let cool then use back of knife to squeeze garlic from pods.

To make frittata: Lower oven to 375 F. In saute pan, heat oil over medium-high heat.

Cook leeks until soft; add broccoli then season with salt, to taste, and remove from heat.

In mixing bowl, mix roasted garlic, sauteed leeks and broccoli, eggs, parsley, Parmigiano Reggiano and cream; place in 9-inch pie dish and bake approximately 20 minutes until top of frittata is brown. Remove from oven and let cool slightly before cutting and serving.

Roasted onions: 1 red onion salt oil For serving: 3 ounces pitted Castelvetrano or green olives, cut into quarters 5 ounces wild arugula 1 lemon, quartered To make lemon chicken: Marinate chicken in mixture of minced garlic, granulated garlic, paprika, smoked paprika, fennel pollen, dried oregano, coriander and salt; let sit overnight.

To make potatoes: Boil potatoes in heavily salted water until tender. Cool, peel and cut into 1 1/2-inch chunks. Toss with oil to coat; reserve.

To make cauliflower: Cut cauliflower into florets and blanch in salted water 1 minute; shock in ice bath. Remove from ice and dry. Toss with mayonnaise, tamari and parsley; reserve.

To make roasted onions: Preheat oven to 450 F. Peel onion and slice into 1-inch rings. Toss with salt and oil; roast until slightly caramelized with texture. Chill and reserve.

Preheat oven to 450 F. Bake chicken on sheet pan approximately 15 minutes. Add potatoes and cauliflower.

Bake approximately 15 minutes then switch oven to broil approximately 10 minutes.

Squeeze lemon over reserved onion.

When chicken is crispy and reaches internal temperature of 165 F, remove from oven and add onions and olives.

Plate chicken, potatoes, onions, olives and cauliflower on top of arugula and garnish with lemon.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 43

Recipe Index Spaghetti Squash with Meat Sauce, 6

Martin’s Bar-B-Que Broccoli Salad, 33

Lebanese-Inspired Pita, 13

Martin’s Bar-B-Que Tennessee’Que Potato Salad, 33

Labneh (Yogurt Sauce), 13

Buttermilk Oven Fried Chicken, 39

Mississippi Sin Dip, 22

Sangria Verde, 41

Cowboy Caviar, 22

Fresh, Healthy Family Meals, 42

Baked Artichoke Dip with Broccoli, 22

Mediterranean Chopped Salad, 44

eat. drink drink. eat. drink. eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI SSISSIPPI MISSISSIPPI MISSISSIPPI

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Extra Table | Charcuterie Chick | Bilal’s EasyKale

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Tired of squash as a side dish? See 3 sides that use fresh, seasonal produce to accompany any main dish.

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Seasonal Side Dishes

Queen’s Reward Meadery | Fat Mama's Tamales | Walnut Hills Restaurant

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eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 45

Mediterranean Chopped Salad There’s no time like the new year to work more fresh vegetables into your diet. This Mediterraneaninspired veggie salad is a great place to start. The hardest part is prepping the vegetables, but after that, you just throw it all in a bowl and call it done.

This salad would be especially delicious in the spring or summertime when the produce is in-season. Pair it with grilled chicken or shrimp, crab cakes or steak. Or, if you’re looking for a lighter lunch, make some orzo and mix it with the veggies.

Ingredients: • 2 English cucumbers, diced • 1 orange bell pepper, diced • ½ medium red onion, finely diced • 7 ounces artichoke hearts, chopped

• ½ teaspoon each of oregano, basil, rosemary and thyme • ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil • 1 cup feta crumbles

1. Combine all ingredients in a mixing bowl. Once well combined, refrigerate for at least two hours or overnight.

The longer it sits, the better it gets! Add salt to taste just before serving.

Do you have a familyfavorite dinner recipe? Or a favorite dish that never lasts long at get-togethers?

Eat Drink Mississippi wants to feature your recipes in future issues. Please send recipes to info@ eatdrinkmississippi.com, or mail them to PO Box 1663 Madison 39130.

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Till We Eat Again

Bill Dabney Photography

Jay Reed, a graduate of Ole Miss, lives in Starkville where he is a pharmacist by day and a freelance food writer by day off.

He is a member of the Southern Foodways Alliance, co-hosts two podcasts and blogs at www.eatsoneate.com.

A Look at the Seasons Ahead

I

BY JAY REED

have two favorite seasons: summer and football. Other parts of the country have four fairly distinct periods they call “seasons.” In Mississippi, we laugh, as they are fickle at best. I remember snow in April as vividly as I do Christmas Days in shorts. But football season is measurable. From the first college kick-off game to the last NFL contest, the boundaries are clear. At our house, weekend life is planned around what time the TV gurus have declared our alma maters will play, and on Fridays, we still attend the local high school games. Summer, also, is at least consistent: it’s gonna be hot, but we have air conditioning.

Everything else is a gamble.

And that’s where we are now. Football carries us from late August to early February.

Summer may come as early as May and merges into football season. February and March are a bit of a conundrum.

By that second month of the year, there’s a good chance one of two things has happened.

Perhaps a few New Year’s resolutions are still intact: we’ve been eating healthier, running enough to finish the Frostbite 5K without embarrassing ourselves, and may actually be looking forward to beach season. An equally plausible scenario may be unfolding with those resolutions already a distant memory, where we’re spending more time eating crispy fries under golden arches than plain Greek yogurt topped with golden flax. Just keeping it real.

Truth be told, I don’t usually get too serious about New Year’s resolutions until sometime in February, anyway. I’m barely finished with my Christmas stocking candy by that time, so there’s no point in bothering on January 1. If I get anything orange in my stocking, it’s not a fruit—it’s a flavor or Reese’s wrapper. I don’t get a Kit-Kat bar; I get a bag of them in whatever interesting iteration has come out most recently. Other family members get cute little trinkets or useful items like socks - I get calories. By this time of year, though, I’ve usually finished them up or given them away. (Whoops, these were gifts. Allow me to rephrase: I “shared” them.) Now, though, it’s as good a time as any to get busy.

Thankfully, there aren’t too many roadblocks to healthier eating in these in-between months. There is Valentine’s Day, which can be a challenge as I like to find all the heartshaped foods being offered in town. And there’s our wedding anniversary, which wasn’t on Valentine’s Day but was dangerously close. You could call it a Valen-versary. At minimum, I have to allow for a nice dinner or a weekend away. As for sports, March Madness doesn’t seem to affect my eating habits, like tailgating in my living room on a football Saturday.

Overall, it’s a good time to make better choices.

There are also a few things to look forward to in these limbo months.

Easter could mean a few Cadbury eggs find their way into my grocery basket. Okay, maybe some Reese’s eggs, too. But I try to balance that out with a little spring asparagus.

By April, we begin to see shoots of green in the yard, and they are welcomed, despite the reality that those shoots will multiply and need to be mowed in a few weeks. That’s also when we start seeing notices that the farmer’s market will soon kick back into action.

And I love a farmer’s market. It’s my happy place. Fresh, healthy food and that good early morning vitamin D from the sunlight. I’m a regular at my local markets, but I look for others wherever I go. There are dilemmas, however.

A few years ago, my wife bought me a little refrigerator magnet that says, “Spent the morning at the farmers market carefully selecting fruits and vegetables that I will throw away next Saturday.” Ouch. I hate it when she’s right like that. That doesn’t happen to me often, but sometimes life gets in the way of vegetables. But it doesn’t stop me from buying them again the next week—New Week’s resolution.

Ironically, the opposite is true with the other “fresh produce” that finds its way into just about every farmer’s market I’ve ever seen: baked goods. Those will be lucky to survive 24 hours if they even make it home. And that certainly doesn’t help with those beach body goals.

Maybe we should just consider February and March to be prep for the months to follow.

Repeat after me: Eat the fresh fruits and vegetables. Limit the scones. Remember that Cadbury eggs don’t come from local bunnies. edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 47

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