Eat Drink Mississippi February March 2015

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

MEET THE MACARON MAVEN FRENCH BISTRO IN OXFORD HOME

CHIA-licious! page 22

3 GREAT RECIPES FOR ADDING CHIA SEEDS TO YOUR DIET

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

March 13-14 Don’t Be Cruel Barbeque Duel Drinks, Food & Fun March 19-21 Art Rocks Tupelo Concerts, Dance, Film & More March 21 Tupelo Crafts Beer Festival Drinks, Food & Fun May 1-3 Tupelo Blue Suede Cruise Classic Cars May 9-10 GumTree Festival Arts, Music & Food June 4-7 Elvis Presley® Festival It’s ALL about Elvis®

Visit Tupelo, Mississippi – an upbeat, happy city where the power of possibility turns our culture into celebrations!

Imagine what you can do here! #MyTupelo

tupelo.net For a full schedule of events, visit us online or call 800-533-0611!

2 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

June 4-5, 2015 Mississippi Trade Mart 1200 Mississippi Street • Jackson, MS

mississippimarket.org • 1.888.886.3323

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 3

1200 N. STATE STATE STREET, JACKSON, MS M O N D A Y – S A T U R D A Y 1 1 AM t o 1 0 PM

4 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

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themanshipjackson.com

•

VOLUME 4 • NUMBER 2

2015

FEBRUARY/MARCH

34 72

“The macarons, though only a few grams, agitate our senses. The eyes have already devoured them.

Fingers skim their surface, the flavors are gently smelled. When their fine crunchy shell is crushed, the ears are excited by the sound. Then the mouth experiences a delicate grace...”

• Pierre Hermé • eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 5

Express

Yourself

Collect. Create. Celebrate. In Ridgeland, the masterpieces are yours in an array of galleries, the Mississippi Craft Center, the state’s premier shopping centers and the great outdoors.

With an abundance of attractions and events, more than 1,600 quality hotel rooms and over 140 great restaurants, Ridgeland is the perfect stop for travelers seeking the arts – whether it be culinary, craft, fine art or just nature’s creations.

Enjoy the Art of It All...in Ridgeland.

Ridgeland Fine Arts Festival • April 18-19, 2015 F E AT U R I N G

Santé South Wine Festival and Ridgeland OBO Tandem Rally

800-468-6078 www.visitridgeland.com

6 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

CONTENTS

19 17 RAISE YOUR GLASS

Berry Delicious Dairy

18 CHEF'S CORNER

Healthy & Happy with Chef Marshall Gilmore

26 MISSISSIPPI MADE

Robicheaux"s Specialty Candies

30 TIME FOR TEA

Ceramics Artist Adds Mississippi Flavor to Traditional English Tea

34 MACARON MAVEN

Madison Mom Finds Sweet Success in French Confection

40 IN THE BLOGLIGHT

Made in Mississippi - Jesse Yancy

42 A TASTE OF FRANCE

Jay Hughes Creates French Bistro in Basement of His Oxford Home

48 FROM MISSISSIPPI TO BEYOND Joanna Gaston Spreads Kindness in Nashville with Cupcakes

32

47

51 FROM THE BOOKSHELF

Field Peas to Foie Gras: Southern Recipes with a French Accent

52 KITCHEN TO KITCHEN

Jackson Home Cook Not Afraid to try New Recipes on Dinner Guests

49

56 THE HILLS

Frog's Pearl Station in Sardis

60 THE DELTA

Serio's in Greenwood

64 THE PINES

Harvest Grill in Meridian

68 CAPITAL/RIVER

La Brioche Patisserie in Jackson

72 COASTAL

IN EVERY ISSUE 8 From the Editor 10 From Our Readers 14 Fabulous Foodie Finds 20 Deep South Dish 78 Events 80 Recipe/Ad Index 81 Coming to Terms 82 Till We Eat Again

Magnolia House in Biloxi

76 FEATURED EVENT

Lebanese Dinner in Vicksburg

ON THE COVER: Chia seeds can easily be incorporated into recipes for added nutritional value. See page 22.

Photography by Lorie Roach. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 7

{ from the editor }

T

here are many reasons to love Paris - the Eiffel Tower, the museums, Notre Dame Cathedral, the gardens, and a million more.

If you're a little obsessed with food like I am (ok, a lot obsessed), your reasons probably include the macarons, the bistros, and the patisseries. In this issue, we've got all three.

It was an honor to meet Chef John Folse, right, at Restaurant R'evolution in New Orleans. He demonstrated how to make gumbo.

Chef Folse showed us how to make a proper roux, which is the base for gumbo, and had us taste it for reference.

I visited Paris for the first time a couple of years ago and immediately fell in love with the city. The food I looked most forward to trying was the macaron. The macaron is an iconic French confection and are in great abundance in the "City of Light." Here in the U.S., not so much. They're very delicate and making them is an art form. Lauren Bowie of Madison has mastered the macaron and is finding sweet success with them. Look on page 34 for her story.

There's nothing quite like the atmosphere of a French bistro. It's coziness, delicious food, and slow pace make for a perfect dining experience. Jay Hughes of Oxford fell in love with the bistros on his many trips to Paris. So much so that he created one in the basement of his home. He spared no detail in bringing a taste of France home with him. You can begin reading about his passion for French cooking on page 44.

The Fondren area of Jackson is constantly evolving. It has a vibrant culinary scene that recently welcomed the addition of La Brioche Patisserie. Sisters Cristina Lazzari and Alejandra Sprouts are transporting patrons around the world with delicious baked goods and confections. To find out how the Argentine duo settled in Jackson, turn to page 68.

The closest connection we Mississippians have with France is with our Acadian neighbors in Louisiana. Their Cajun and Creole cuisines are heavily influenced by the French.

Chef John Folse is considered the authority on Cajun and Creole cuisine and culture. I've had the privilege of meeting him on several occasions recently. He and Chef Rick Tramonto of Chicago have teamed to bring Seafood R'evolution to Ridgeland. Prior to the restaurant opening, a small group of food journalists were invited to meet the chefs, dine at their first restaurant endeavor (R'evolution in New Orleans), and tour their new restaurant. Upon meeting Chef Folse, I quickly saw why he has been given this title; he is literally a walking encyclopedia. His knowledge of the subject is vast and his delivery of information is intriguing; I could listen to him talk for hours.

So, whenever you're hungry for a taste of France, there's no need to hop on a flight and trek around the world. Delicious French cuisines can be found right here at home.

Go grab a croissant or macaron and let's eat!

photos courtesy of restaurant r'evolution

things." q "For he satisfies the thirsty and fills the hungry with good Psalm 107:9 r 8 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

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Why advertise with us?

Reach over 35,000 readers with each issue.

The Emile Henry Chicken Roaster is designed to hold up to an 8-lb. chicken with room to put potatoes and vegetables around the chicken at the base to soak up the delicious juices. Perfect for all roasted chicken, turkey, Cornish hen, duck, and boneless roast dishes. Made of ceramic, the chicken roaster will cook your chicken more efficiently as the ceramic will maintain heat and cook from the inside as well.

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Contribu ndation HUNGER GAINS: THE REVOLUTIONARY ACT OF EATING Awa tion LOCAL eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

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632 N. Bierdeman Rd., Pearl, MS 39208

Metal Builders Supply A Relationship That Will Last A Lifetime

601.932.0202 • 800.257.7178 • www.metalbuilderssupply.com eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 9

{ from our readers } I love this magazine. I have purchased every issue and enjoy reading them again and again. Also love all the recipes and articles about what is going on in the great state of Mississippi.

Lynda Charlton Facebook Fan

Thank you for the great review in the December/January issue! It's very much appreciated.

Liz Barrett Oxford Author, Pizza: A Slice of American History

Trying to remember which issue that recipe you've wanted to try is in?

Been flipping through pages to find the article on that restaurant you've been wanting to visit?

We've made it simple to find what you're looking for. Visit our website at www.eatdrinkmississippi for a complete index of all of our features and recipes.

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI J.J. Carney Publisher/Editor John Carney Executive Editor Anne Morgan Carney Executive Assistant Wendi O'Neill Advertising Executives Joe Luca Newsstand Sales Consultant

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75 Years of Exemplary Historic Home Tours and Unparalleled Hospitality COLUMBUS, MISSISSIPPI 2015 EVENTS

YEAR-ROUND Daily Historic Home Tours MARCH 28 John Purifoy’s, “Chronicles of the Blue & the Gray”, Rent Auditorium, The W APRIL 6-18 75th Annual Spring Pilgrimage | APRIL 11 Pilgrimage Half Marathon & 5K • Artisans’ Alley • Catfish® in the Alley | MAY Market Street Festival | JUNE Juneteenth JULY Fireworks on the Water • Southside/ Townsend Park Blues Festival • Crawford Cotton Boll Festival AUGUST Artesia Days • Possum Town Triathlon • Roast N’ Boast | SEPTEMBER Tennessee Williams Tribute OCTOBER Eudora Welty Writers’ Symposium • Caledonia Days • Roast & Boast • 7th Avenue Heritage Festival NOVEMBER Decorative Arts & Preservation Forum / Antiques Show & Sale • Ghosts & Legends go to www.visitcolumbusms.org for complete listing of events

Tennessee Williams Home & Welcome Center 300 Main Street • 800-920-3533 • www.visitcolumbusms.org

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 11

{contributors}

LIZ BARRETT is an Oxford-based journalist who has been working with trade magazines and online publications for 10 years.

She runs the award-winning website EatingOxford.com, which provides Oxonians with local restaurant news and information, and is the editor-at-large for the nation’s No. 1 pizza trade publication, PMQ Pizza Magazine. Her first book, Pizza: A Slice of American History, just hit bookstores.

JULIAN BRUNT is a food and culture writer from the Gulf Coast whose roots run more than three hundred years deep in Southern soil. He is deeply concerned with culinary and cultural traditions and thinks no man worth his salt that cannot hold forth in tall tale and willingly endure the heat of the kitchen.

LISA LAFONTAINE BYNUM is a freelance writer from Grenada. Her work has appeared in several publications in Mississippi. She is a graduate of Delta State University where she received a BA in Marketing and her MBA. In her free time, she enjoys food writing and photography. She currently resides in Brandon. Photo by Alisa Chapman Photography

JO ALICE DARDEN is a book editor and freelance writer. A former lifestyles editor for the Greenwood Commonwealth, she is a regular contributor to its quarterly publication, Leflore Illustrated. She grew up in Greenwood, graduated from Delta State University with a major in English, and now lives in Cruger with her husband Bob, also a writer, on his family’s farm.

KIM HENDERSON is a freelance writer living in Copiah County. While at Mississippi College, she was named their most outstanding journalism student and has since been published by sources ranging from the Associated Press to LifeWay Christian Resources. She currently writes a weekly slice-of-life column for Brookhaven’s Daily Leader.

SUSAN MARQUEZ lives and writes in Madison.

She has a degree in Radio-TV-Film from the University of Southern Mississippi and had a long career in advertising and marketing before stumbling into a freelance writing career in 2001. Hundreds of published articles later, Marquez still loves to tell the stories of the interesting people, places, and events throughout the South.

12 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

KATHY K. MARTIN is an Ole Miss journalism graduate who currently lives in Collierville, Tennessee with her husband and two children. She works as a freelance writer and chairs her church’s Christian writers group.

LORIE ROACH lives in Buckatunna with her husband. She is a food blogger and owns her own photography business. She is also an avid cooking contest participant and has traveled the country to compete. In 2008, she competed on Food Network’s Ultimate Recipes Showdown: Cakes, where she won first place in the cupcake segment of the show.

JULIE SKIPPER, an attorney and freelance writer, is a graduate of Millsaps College and Vanderbilt University Law School. She spends her spare time soaking up as much of Jackson's vibrant arts and food scene as possible. Julie is a parishioner at St. Andrew's Cathedral and serves on the Greater Jackson Metro Chamber's Vision 2022 committee. Among her extracurricular activities, she enjoys travel and wine, and hopes to one day combine the two in a trip to Napa Valley.

GENNIE TAYLOR, a Forest native, is the publications coordinator at East Central Community College in Decatur and a freelance writer, photographer, and graphic designer.

She is the former editor of The Demopolis Times, a five-day daily newspaper in Demopolis, Ala., and managing editor of The Scott County Times, a weekly newspaper in her hometown. A graduate of the University of Southern Mississippi with a Bachelor’s Degree in Journalism, she has received numerous awards from the Associated Press and the Mississippi and Alabama Press Associations. She is married to Steven Taylor and they have a daughter, Mallory Grace. In her free time, she enjoys traveling, reading, and cooking.

KELSEY WELLS is a news writer at Lawrence County Press in Monticello. She is a graduate of Southwest Mississippi Community College where she served as editor of The Pine Burr.

She earned her Bachelor’s degree in Communications at William Carey University and served as a staff writer and life editor of The Cobbler student newspaper until she became managing editor her senior year. She currently resides in the Divide community where she is active in her church and community.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 13

{ fabulous foodie finds }

2015 Color of the Year

Emile Henry Pizza Stone, $49.95 The Kitchen Table, Hattiesburg

Black and Decker CM5000B 12-Cup Mill and Brew Coffeemaker, $89.99 Target 14 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

Pantone, the global color authority, recently announced PANTONE® 18-1438 Marsala, a naturally robust and earthy wine red, as the Color of the Year for 2015.

"While PANTONE 18-3224 Radiant Orchid, the captivating 2014 color of the year, encouraged creativity and innovation, Marsala enriches our mind, body and soul, exuding confidence and stability," said Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute®.

"Much like the fortified wine that gives Marsala its name, this tasteful hue embodies the satisfying richness of a fulfilling meal, while its grounding redbrown roots emanate a sophisticated, natural earthiness. This hearty, yet stylish tone is universally appealing and translates easily to fashion, beauty, industrial design, home furnishings, and interiors."

Zoku Slush and Shake Maker, $19.95 Williams-Sonoma, Ridgeland

Color of the Year Mug, $25.00 Pantone

Rachael Ray 3-piece Stoneware Round Baker and Lid Set, $39,99 Belk

Maribeth Dinnerware - Dinner plate, $7.00 each; salad plate, $6.00 each; cereal bowl, $6.00 each; mug, $6.00 each Pier 1 Imports

see page 80 for store information

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 15

Missing an issue?

Back issues are available at www.eatdrinkmississippi.com

drink. eat. drink. eat.

MISSISSIPPI MISSISSIPPI eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI FEBRUARY/MARCH 2014

JUNE/JULY 2014

APRIL/MAY 2014

Spring Lovefor theof Luncheon Chocolate

DUTCH OVEN COOKING

SWEET & SAVORY JAMS CHOCOLATE CHIP BREAD PUDDING

page 44

Heirloom Tomatoes eat. drink. eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI MISSISSIPPI eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI page 34

VOLUME 4, NUMBER 1

VOLUME 3, NUMBER 5

the delicious legacy of

page 32

DELICIOUSLY SEXY EGGPLANTS VOLUME 3, NUMBER 6

CHICKEN AND ANDOUILLE SAUSAGE GUMBO

SOUTHERN-STYLE CRAWFISH BOIL PIG PICKIN' CAKE

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2014

PIZZA FARM OFFERS UNIQUE LEARNING EXPERIENCE

ANGEL FOOD CAKE WAFFLES

WING DANG DOODLE FESTIVAL

DRINKING YOUR FRUITS AND VEGETABLES

West Coast Meets

Gulf Coast

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2014

page 74

S'more(s) Give Me

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eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

G overnor's Mansion

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015

FOODIE FORAY ON 49

OVER 25 DELICIOUS RECIPES

page 20

Gathering at the

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page 36

August/September 2014

December/January 2015

FIGHTING FOR THE FAMILY FARM Ben Burkett Receives James Beard Foundation Award for Contributions to Agriculture

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

5 UNIQUE HOLIDAY COCKTAILS

REAL COOKING WITH CHEF DAVID CREWS

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

October/November 2014

FARM TO SCHOOL MONTH GREENVILLE'S DELTA HOT TAMALE FESTIVAL HUNGER GAINS: THE REVOLUTIONARY ACT OF EATING LOCAL eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI 16 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

{ raise your glass }

Berry Delicious Dairy

I

f you or a loved one is lactose intolerant, you might find yourself confused about the condition and what it means for your eating habits. One common misperception is that you must eliminate dairy from your diet. Actually, by following simple tips for management, you can return to confidently eating the dairy foods you love.

Try some of these ideas for comfortably incorporating dairy: • Sip it: Start with a small amount of milk and slowly work your way up to an amount that doesn’t upset your stomach.

• Try it: Treat yourself to the many great-tasting lactose-free dairy foods available in the dairy case. These are real dairy foods made from cow’s milk, just without the lactose.

• Stir it: Try eating dairy foods with other solid foods or meals; this helps give your body more time to digest the lactose. Mix milk into soup, have it with cereal, or blend it with fruit.

• Slice it: Top sandwiches or crackers with natural cheeses such as cheddar, colby, Monterey Jack, mozzarella, and Swiss. These cheeses are low in lactose.

• Spoon it: Enjoy yogurt. The friendly bacteria help your body break down lactose.

With just a little planning, individuals with lactose intolerance can eat their favorite dairy foods confidently, such as this fruity yogurt smoothie. edm

Raspberry Strawberry Yogurt Smoothie 1 cup low-fat vanilla yogurt 1 cup frozen raspberries, unsweetened 1 cup frozen strawberries, unsweetened 3/4 cup low-fat milk or lactose-free milk 1 cup ice (about 12 cubes) Blend all ingredients in blender until smooth. Serve immediately.

Servings: 4

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 17

{ chef's corner }

Healthy

W

By chef Marshall Gilmore photos provided

&

ould you believe that two of the topselling appetizers at our Mississippi restaurant are the Quinoa Cups and the Crispy Asparagus Spears? Or that when we offer a Teriyaki Lettuce Wrap as a special? It sells out every time.

When I came back home to open Harvest Grill in downtown Meridian, I wanted healthy cooking to be a cornerstone of the menu. I was pretty sure that people would like it. After all, when you start with wonderful fresh produce, you’re already halfway to delicious.

We describe what we do as Cross-Country Cuisine. That’s because I really have cooked and eaten my way across a big part of the country, learning as I went. After I got my Bachelor’s degree in Business Administration at The University of Mississippi, I started my culinary career in Hawaii. Later, I worked in a bunch of kitchens in Colorado, getting an impromptu education in multicultural dishes. I also trained in classical French techniques at the Denver Campus of Johnson & Wales University.

But I’m still a son of the South. I know that lots of folks here won’t “waste” perfectly good food by leaving it on their plate. That’s just the way they were brought up. So one important aspect of healthy preparation is keeping our portions reasonable. We actually get a lot of comments about that. Our customers say the servings are just the right size.

The other thing we hear over and over is, “Everything tastes so fresh!” We’re blessed with from-the-farm produce and seafood right out of the Gulf of Mexico. That makes it fun for us in the kitchen. Working with great ingredients gives us a head start on creating something amazing.

Whenever I could made it back home from my travels, I’d hang out with my buddies. We’d cook. And eat. And laugh.

Food brought us together. And that’s really what it’s all about.

I want my food to make everybody happy. I also care about the well-being of each person who accepts our hospitality by coming through our door. So I give them choices that make 18 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

Happy

Chef Marshall Gilmore them smile from the first bite and, oh, yeah, are good for them, too. In turn, they trust me enough to give it a try when I present them with something new.

In Mississippi, cooking comes from the heart. We want to help all those hearts stay healthy without sacrificing one little bit of taste. That’s why we’ve got Southerners excited about quinoa, lettuce wraps, and asparagus spears. Believe it. edm

Basil aioli can be used to dip fresh veggies in, on salads, and is most commonly used as a condiment on sandwiches and sliders. At Harvest Grill in Meridian, it's a delicious dip for crispy asparagus spears (pictured above).

Basil Aioli 4 roasted garlic cloves 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 shallot, chopped 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 tablespoon white balsamic vinegar 1 cup of fresh basil leaves 1 egg yolk 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil Combine first seven ingredients into a food processor and slowly drizzle in the olive oil. Strain through a mesh strainer. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 19

{ deep south dish }

Food. Family. Memories.

Monday = Red Beans and Rice Day

BY MARY FOREMAN

M

onday. Wash Day. Red Beans and Rice. Back in the day at least, that was the way that it was, and the tradition of eating red beans and rice on Mondays, either for lunch or dinner, carries on down here in the Deep South, even today, and even if nobody’s doin’ laundry.

For the homemaker who did not know the modern conveniences we have today, every day had its own task.

Thursday was the day for grocery shopping, Saturdays were often spent doing the baking, and laundry was almost universally done on Mondays back then. As a physically grueling job, with hand wringing, basket hauling and everything hung outside to dry, with no man around to borrow muscle from, this duty most suited Mondays.

After a day of rest on Sunday, the physical strength would definitely be needed. I clearly remember my grandmother’s ringer washer in the corner of her kitchen and I am certainly familiar with the task of hanging clothes on a line in the backyard. As much as we might complain about laundry duty today, we sure have it made in comparison.

Sunday supper was generally one that could be placed in the oven to slow cook while the family was at church, and very often down South, that would be a large ham, one that could also be used for multiple meals. The ham bone would likely become the central seasoning ingredient for a pot of red beans and rice, a dish that could slow sim-

Mary Foreman, a native of Biloxi, is the author of the popular website deepsouthdish.com, where she shares her favorite, homespun, mostly from scratch and, very often, heirloom and heritage, Southern recipes.

20 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

mer on the stovetop for hours with very little monitoring, other than an occasional stir - perfect for wash day.

These days home cooks are more likely to prepare a pot of homemade red beans and rice on Sunday, when time is more at leisure, and have the leftovers on Monday. Truth is, that's even better, because a pot of cooked red beans, like a good gumbo or chili, will only improve over time, so leftovers are actually even better. Before I refrigerate them, I like to stir in a little extra water because they will thicken substantially overnight. Adding extra liquid when heating them up will work, but it will also dilute the flavor, so add it in before you refrigerate them. The heat level will intensify as well as they sit, so do keep that in mind when seasoning, especially if you are cooking these a day ahead.

Although I’ve written recipes for a slow cooker version using dried beans, as well as a shortcut and quick skillet version using canned beans - all of which are excellent - my favorite way to prepare them, and the one I think tastes the most authentic, remains this method of low and slow on the stovetop. You need to allow them to transform from thin soup to a creamy pot of beans that are tender and slightly thickened, so it takes time, but it’s time that is mostly unattended.

Be sure to use red kidney beans, and not the smaller red beans. The taste and texture are miles apart from one another. Down here in the Deep South, the premium dried bean for red beans and rice are, in my opinion, Camellia brand red kidneys. Camellia beans are always consistently creamy and they just cook up better. I can tell the difference, but if you don't have access to them and don’t want to order them online, don't fret over it either. Just use your favorite brand and next time you make your way down here along the Coast, pick up a few bags of Camellia to try.

The preferred way to eat red beans and rice is to spoon the beans over hot, steamed rice. We serve them with a garden salad and hot, buttered French bread, or pistolette rolls, though a slice of skillet cornbread is delicious too.

Garnish with sliced green onion, if desired, and pass hot sauce at the table. edm

Homemade Southern Red Beans and Rice ©From the Kitchen of Deep South Dish

and let soak for one hour. Drain and set aside.

1 pound dried, red kidney beans (Camellia brand preferred) 1/2 tablespoon cooking oil 1 package (12/14 oz.) andouille or regular smoked sausage 3 slices bacon, chopped 2 cups chopped sweet or yellow onion 1 cup chopped green bell pepper 1/2 cup chopped celery 1/2 tablespoon minced garlic Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste 1/4 teaspoon red cayenne pepper, or to taste, optional 1 teaspoon dried basil 2 bay leaves 1 large meaty ham bone or two meaty ham hocks 2 quarts water 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, optional Kosher salt to taste, only if needed Hot, steamed rice Sliced green onion, for garnish, optional Hot sauce, for the table

Heat cooking oil in the pot. Cut sausage into 1-inch chunks and add to oil, cooking until browned; remove and set aside. Add bacon and cook until fat is rendered. Add the onion, bell pepper, and celery and sauté the veggies until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, black and red pepper, basil and bay leaf to the vegetable mixture and continue cooking for about 3 minutes, stirring. Add the ham bone or hocks, beans and the 2 quarts of fresh water. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook, uncovered, for about 2 hours, stirring occasionally, or until beans are tender and slightly thickened. For extra richness, stir in the butter when beans are finished. Remove bay leaves and discard. Remove bone or hocks and pick off any meat, returning to the pot. Taste and adjust for seasonings, adding salt only if needed. Serve over hot, cooked rice and garnish with sliced green onion, if desired. Pass hot sauce at the table.

Cook's Notes: If you need to thicken beans further, remove about a cup of the beans and mash them with a fork, returning them to the pot. For added richness and color, add a splash of Kitchen Bouquet at the end of cooking time. If your ham bone or hocks are not very meaty, you may add some chopped smoked ham.

Rinse and sort beans and place into a deep pot, adding water to cover beans plus an inch. Soak overnight or bring to a boil; boil for 5 minutes uncovered, turn off heat, cover

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 21

{ what's hot }

CHIA-licious!

3 Great Recipes for Adding Chia Seeds to Your Diet

recipes, styling, and photography by lorie roach

Chia seeds are all the rage right now and for good reason. They come from the desert plant Salvia hispanica and they are full of omega 3 fatty acids, protein, and antioxidants among many other things. These tiny seeds dissolve in water and form a gelatinous substance which makes them great for thickening foods such as jams and jellies, sauces, and puddings. They can also be added to things like granola and smoothies to up the nutritional value. Here are three easy and healthy recipes that use chia seeds.

Amalgation Cake 22 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

Oat and Chia Crusted French Toast Sticks 1 cup quick cooking oats 2 tablespoons chia seeds 1 tablespoon light brown sugar 1 teaspoon cinnamon 2 large eggs 1 cup unsweetened almond or whole milk 1 teaspoon vanilla 5 slices whole grain bread Coconut oil, for frying Place the oats into a mini or regular food processor and pulse a few times to break them up into small bits. Transfer to a pie plate or other shallow

dish and add the chia seeds, brown sugar, and cinnamon. Stir well. Whisk together the eggs, the milk, and the vanilla in another pie plate or shallow dish.

Slice bread into 3 strips each. Heat 1 teaspoon coconut oil in a medium nonstick skillet over medium heat. Dip the bread strips into the egg mixture, coating all sides and letting excess drip off, then into the oatchia mixture, coating both sides. Place into the pan three or four at a time, and fry until golden brown, turning once. Add more coconut oil with each batch. Serve warm with syrup or jam. 4 servings.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 23

Chia Energy Balls 1 cup quick cooking oats 1/2 cup shredded coconut 1/4 cup chia seeds 1/2 cup flax meal or freshly ground flax seed 1/4 cup mini semisweet chocolate chips 1/2 cup almond butter 1/3 cup raw or regular honey 1 teaspoon vanilla extract Stir the oats, coconut, chia seeds, flax meal, and

24 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

chocolate chips together in a large mixing bowl.

Microwave the almond butter and honey in the microwave for 30-6o seconds, stirring well until mixture is smooth. Pour over the dry ingredients and stir until everything is coated and combined.

Refrigerate for about 20 minutes, then roll into small balls about 1 inch in diameter. About 22-24 balls.

Store in an airtight container and keep refrigerated for up to 1 week.

Blackberry-Chia Refrigerator Jam 1 pound frozen or fresh blackberries 2 tablespoons sugar 2 tablespoons chia seeds Place the blackberries and sugar in a small, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Cook until mixture boils, while mashing with a potato masher to break into small bits. Let boil for 5 minutes, re-

ducing heat if necessary and stirring occasionally.

Remove from heat and stir in the chia seeds. Let sit until mixture comes to room temperature. Spoon into a small mason jar or jelly jar and keep refrigerated. Mixture will thicken as it cools. * The amount of sugar can be adjusted. Other sweeteners such as honey may also be used.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 25

Sweeter { mississippi made }

Making

26 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

Life

Robicheaux’s Specialty Candies Offers Handmade Custom Treats story By Gennie Taylor | photos provided

A

fter retiring from 30 years as an educator, Laura Robicheaux and her husband, Francis, left the suburbs of Louisiana and retired to 70 acres in the country in Poplarville.

“We are both busy people, so he (Francis, also a retired educator) went back to teaching his math at Pearl River Community College.” Francis suggested Laura return to the classroom as well, but she said she wanted to try something different.

“Someone had said to start a small business…you can make a lot of money,” Laura said. “I was not worried about making money, but wanted to do something that would keep me busy without leaving the property. I wanted my mind and body to stay active.”

Laura said she had no idea what she wanted to do but de-

cided, “Why not candy making? I could make a lot of people happy with hand-made candy.”

In April 1992, the Robicheauxes incorporated a “tiny” beginner business named Robicheaux’s Specialty Candy, Inc. “I had no clue what I was doing,” Laura said. Therefore, she sought help from the small business department at Mississippi State University.

“They helped me a lot,” she said. “I learned about health regulations, what had to be on a label, etc."

“I learned that you have to have a product that people want and that it had to be of good quality,” Laura said.

After developing a product line, then you need customers, she said.

Laura joined the Mississippi Specialty Foods Association.

“We went as a group with our products to the Atlanta eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 27

Market,” she said. “This started my customer base.”

Laura said she still participates in the Atlanta Market twice a year and also is a vendor at the Dallas Market three times a year.

“I did many different wholesale markets during the years, but have now just settled on four different markets,” she said.

“You get to meet your customers and get new customers at these show…you must do wholesale shows to stay in business.”

Laura said Robicheaux’s Specialty Candy, Inc.’s business is about 95 percent wholesale and five percent retail.

The company’s bestseller, by far, is the Pecan Turtle, she said.

“We will have Pecan Turtles in almost every order that comes in.”

In addition to the Pecan Turtle, Robicheaux’s Candy has several different candies in two different sizes. They also produce glazed, seasoned, and roasted nuts; regular nut snack mix; and chocolate covered nut snack mix. Laura said chocolate covered and decorated Oreos and pretzels were added the company’s product line several years ago.

“We have gift bags, gift boxes and gift tins (also, seasonal packaging),” she said. “We make New Orleans style pralines and lots of seasonal items, such as Christmas trees and Valentine’s Day hearts made out of pecan turtles then decorated.”

The company’s products are unique because each item is hand-made.

“We do a lot of custom items, simply because we are a small business and we can do that,” she said. “When someone gets our product, it has just been made for him or her.”

Laura said the candy-making “girls” who work for her have been with the company for years.

“They know every part of the business. They only need to know their schedule of how many and which candies to make each day,” Laura said. This allows the custom orders and the fresh quality.

“We have an unbelievable operation,” she said. “It works for us.”

The candy-makers ship within the continental U.S. every workday.

“We have an extremely busy Christmas and Valentine's 28 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

Day, but very slow summers, because chocolate and the heat are not a good mix,” Laura said.

However, they do ship in the summer with cool packs for an extra charge.

Laura said she loves her business.

“I can’t believe that I have been doing this for over 22 years,” she said. “I have a master’s degree in education and taught for 30 years, but I am known as the ‘Candy Lady.’ I love it.”

Laura said the company was something she started, nursed, helped grow and kept alive all these years.

She credits her husband for his support throughout the years.

“I love my husband,” she said. “He has been very supportive and understanding, because I am gone quite a bit to the shows and sometimes we work many long hard hours getting everything made. Our business is located on our 70 acres just behind our house, so I just walk to work.”

Laura and Francis have two grown children who have their own careers and families, so she said she is unsure of what the future holds for her candy company. However, she said, “One thing for sure, I will keep it alive as long as I am able.” edm Robicheaux’s Specialty Candy, Inc. 2103 Ford’s Creek Road, Poplarville 601.795.6833 www.robicheauxcandy.com

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Time for

Tea

30 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

Ceramics Artist Adds Mississippi Flavor to Traditional English Tea Story by Kim Henderson Photography by Paige Anderson Food styling by Paige Anderson and Holly Slay

A

round the Brookhaven home of Tim and Holly shipped more than 500 orders throughout the United Slay, tea parties have been a big theme since the States, and to England, Australia, South Korea, and first time the couple’s two daughters, Ellie and Canada as well.

Abby, donned boas and a pink fur cape for one. Holly Holly’s interest in ceramics grew as a result of workrecalls that afternoon with a smile. “I actually surprised ing at a pottery studio during her years as a student at them with a royal the University of wedding tea party Southern Mississipwhen Prince Wilpi in Hattiesburg. liam married Kate Years later when Middleton. I served she and Tim were them English tea house hunting, it and petit fours in was a walkout baseour living room ment (just perfect while they wore for a kiln) that white gloves and tipped the scales watched a videoin favor of their tape of the wedcurrent residence. ding. They loved it,” It’s there where she remembers. she now stays busy And it was just putting the finishsuch a gathering ing touches on tiny that turned Holly’s cups and saucers, to “playing around the delight of young with ceramics” hobparty-goers. by into a “ceramics Determined to that you play with” stay true to a combusiness - one that pletely Mississippicelebrated record made mantra, Holly sales last year on works closely with crafty online marSouthern Delights, ketplace Etsy. a ceramics supplier “I decided to in Crystal Springs Holly Slay of Brookhaven has turned her interest in give Ellie a teathat not only proceramics into a thriving business with custom dethemed birthday vides the first firing signed tea sets. party when she for her products, turned six, so I but something else designed tea cups to give away as favors,” Holly shares, that sets her work apart – vintage tea cup molds. Store adding that the gifts turned out to be a big hit. From owner Gwen Berch just happened to have a set that had that point on, Holly’s artistic focus changed from platbeen handed down to her from another ceramics artist ters and plates to tea sets, and her business took on when Holly inquired. Although the originals have since a life of its own. Last year alone, Holly’s Hand Made been retired, replicas have taken their place. “They were

OPPOSITE PAGE - Ellie Slay, 9, and her sister, Abby, 5, serve up tea party fun on a sunny afternoon under a willow tree in Lincoln County. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 31

ABOVE - When Mississippi is in bloom, finding floral accents for decorating couldn’t be easier.

RIGHT - A carefully-orchestrated tea party is worth remembering. Holly Slay (left) employed the help of her friend, Paige Anderson, to document the whimsical willow tree affair shown on the previous page. The two also combined forces to produce the photos accompanying this article. For more information about their businesses, look for Holly’s custom pottery at Hollyslay.etsy.com or search for Holly’s Handmade on Facebook. BlackBird Photography, Paige’s creative outlet, can be found on Facebook and on the web at www.blackbirdphoto.net.

32 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

perfect for what I wanted to do,” Holly explains.

Tetsifying to the popularity of Holly’s designs, Berch says she and husband have never been busier. “We pour six days a week just trying to stay ahead of her,” she laughs.

Not surprisingly, the business’s most requested item is a birthday bundle which includes a tea set for the honoree and tea cups for rest of the guests, just like the one that started the ball rolling four years ago. Holly believes that her ability to personalize those pieces adds to their appeal. “I hand paint each order per the customer’s requests, so no two sets are exactly alike,” she explains. “It’s a 100 percent custom order business. That way buyers can pick their own colors and designs. Sometimes they send me inspiration photos, and I match my painting to party themes, baby bedding, even wedding colors,” she adds, noting that she also does bridal sets.

That’s right. Adults like her tea sets, too.

“These are larger pieces, the size of a latte cup, but they have the same look,” Holly explains. “I paint them with the names of the bride and groom and their wedding date. Usually each of the bridesmaids will get a teacup of their own to keep as well.”

Holly remains committed to using only food-safe and nontoxic glazes on her wares. “That way these pieces can actually be used instead of left on a shelf,” she notes. And when they are used, Holly offers this advice to those planning tea parties for young guests: “Not everyone likes tea. Have some lemonade or hot chocolate to offer in case they don’t, and be sure to include proven favorites on the food table like cutout sandwiches, homemade sugar cubes, and anything dipped in almond bark and covered with sprinkles.” edm

ABOVE LEFT - An array of sweet treats, including pink cupcakes, cookies with sprinkles, and rosetopped petit fours from Janie’s Pastry Shop and Bakery in Brookhaven is sure to delight young party-goers.

www.hollyslay.etsy.com eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 33

Macaron Maven 34 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

Madison Mom Finds Sweet Success in French Confection story by susan marquez | photography by christina foto

F

rench macarons are arguably one of the most decadent and delightful of treats. A creamy filling sandwiched between two delicate almond cookies is the perfect ending to any meal, or a delicious accompaniment to an afternoon cup of tea or coffee.

Lauren Bowie has been a fan of the fancy French treats for some time. As a matter of fact, she likes all things French–she even has a degree in French from Mississippi College.“When our daughter turned one, I planned a French-themed birthday party,” says Bowie. “I wanted to serve the colorful macarons, but couldn’t find any locally, so I had to order them from out of state.”

After the party, Bowie thought she’d try her hand at making macarons. “I really thought I could do it, because I had always been a baker.” She found a recipe and had beginner’s luck right out of the gate. “They turned out great!” But the next day, she tried again and it was a big failure. “About 15 batches later–all bad–I began to learn a few tricks and started making pretty decent macarons.”

When a friend wanted to order three dozen for his wife’s birthday party, Bowie realized that she could probably make macarons for profit. “I had never even considered selling them, so this business has grown organically.” She began making the macarons seriously in 2012, selling them weekly from May to October at the Livingston Farmer’s Market. But then Bowie, pregnant with her second child, developed a real aversion to macarons. “It was a pregnancy thing, I guess,” she laughs. “I just couldn’t stand to be around them.”

Sadly, her little boy was born with serious health issues and only lived for 15 days. “We were devastated, of course,” says Bowie. Wanting to do something to fill the hole in her heart, Bowie began baking again. “The baby died on November 1, and in January, I began baking. I made baby

Lauren Bowie blue macarons with hearts on them, and sold a box of ten for $20. The profits went to Compassion Kids, an organization that helps kids in India. We bought items for the children eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 35

36 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

Lauren Bowie of Madison has perfected the art of making macarons.

with the proceeds of the macarons.” The couple launched a crowd-sourcing campaign and raised enough for Bowie’s husband and a friend to travel to India to deliver the items they’d purchased. “We raised enough for their trips within 37 hours. It was meant to be.”

That project got Bowie back in the kitchen and making her delicious macarons. “I still make the baby blue ones, and that money all goes to good causes.” She makes several flavors of macarons, some seasonal, others year-round staples.

From her Madison kitchen, Bowie bakes a couple of days a week, usually making three batches (three dozen per batch) each time, although she has been known to make eight or nine batches in a day.

The process is very exact. She begins by measuring out almond flour, confectioners sugar, superfine white sugar, and egg whites. “It’s important to have all ingredients mise en place (French for “put in place”) before beginning the mixing process,” she explains. The technique for making macarons can be a little tricky, as there are so many factors in play. The quality of the ingredients is critical. Bowie orders her almond flour online, and often it is so fresh that it has a dampness to it. She sifts the flour and will let it sit out for a day or two to eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 37

38 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

O

dry before mixing the macarons. The measuring of ingredients (she uses a scale, not a measuring cup), mixing of the batter, the pans she uses, oven temperature, baking time and more all have to be carefully considered. When making macarons, avoiding problems like having too many cracks, cookies being too dome shaped or uneven or lopsided is important. A perfect macaron is neither too chewy or too dry.

Bowie sells her macarons by order locally. “I don’t ship them because I just haven’t found the right container yet. Besides, I’m busy enough just filling orders right here at home.”

Orders can be placed by email (meringuemacarons@gmail. com) or by phone, 601-405-7096. edm

Macaron vs. Macaroon

In case you've ever wondered, there is a difference in a macaron and a macaroon. They are not just alternate spellings for the same confection. With a little help from Wikipedia, we want to clear the confusion.

A macaron is a French sweet meringue-based confection made with egg white, icing sugar, granulated sugar, almond powder or ground almond, and food coloring. The macaron is commonly filled with ganache, buttercream or jam filling sandwiched between two biscuits (cookies).

A macaroon is a type of small circular cake, typically made from ground almonds (the original main ingredient) or coconut (and/or other nuts or even potato), with sugar and egg white. Macaroons are often baked on edible rice paper placed on a baking tray.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 39

{ in the bloglight }

Made in Mississippi Author Jesse Yancy Seeks to Expand Mississippi Cooking Influence story by kelsey wells photos provided

W

ith eight generations of family rooted in Mississippi, Jesse Yancy has heard more than a few soul food recipes and homespun stories. Now, he wants to bring Mississippi cooking and culture to the world through his blog, Made in Mississippi.

Growing up in Calhoun County, Yancy learned the farmto-table processes of harvesting, canning and cooking that are prevalent in most rural areas. But along with cooking lessons came stories, folklore of folks, that his relatives passed on to him over a piece of cake or pie. Heirloom recipes came with stories of aunts and second cousins, and Yancy “ate it up” literally and figuratively.

Yancy now makes his home in Jackson, where he is a editor, writer and photographer. His stories have won awards and been featured in publications such as The Clarion-Ledger, The Daily Mississippian, and Delta Magazine.

A couple of years ago, Jotham McCauley recognized Yancy's talent for food writing and storytelling and encouraged him to start a food blog. Without strict deadlines or the rigorous editing process, Made in Mississippi became a thriving reality.

Recipes for delicious Southern fare aren't all you'll find on this blog.

“While eating and cooking [have] always been [pivotal subjects] for Made in Mississippi, you'll also find articles about history and literature, music and art, people and politics,” he said. Yancy also publishes guest columnists in addition to his personal articles.

Made in Mississippi has become popular around the world, and Yancy is encouraged by the response. However, he wants to help bring the blogging world into more popularity in his home state.

“Most of the blogs in Mississippi that have a very large following are of a political or commercial nature. For the most 40 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

part Mississippians are unfamiliar and unaccustomed to the 'blogosphere.'

Above all, Yancy desires “to take Mississippi cooking to the world.” With his down-home stories such as the following, “A Southern Fish Cake,” and easy yet tasty Southern dishes, Yancy is well on his way to bringing Mississippi cooking to global fame. www.jesseyancy.com

A Southern Fish Cake

by Jesse Yancy

In the culinary sphere, it’s not unusual for chefs of one ilk or another to turn a hayseed staple into a Broadway entrée.

Examples abound. Swear to God, we’ve seen black-eyed peas made into everything short of cupcakes with sweet potato icing (don’t you dare!), and if I run up on one more gourmet recipe for fried green tomatoes I’m going to take a skillet to somebody.

Well, so be it. Most basic recipes are open to elaboration, and every cook has a twist; a pinch here, a dash there, a pot for this, a pan for that. The possibilities are endless. If the cook’s intentions are honorable, meaning that his or her primary concern is with how a dish tastes, all the better. But if you’re putting a heap of crab ceviche over a batch of cold butter bean fritters just for the novelty or so you can charge six bucks more, that’s just wrong. Capote once said of writing that you must learn the rules before you can break them, and this is true of cookery as well. Be “original, not outrageous,” Alice B. Toklas cautions. Her advice is especially valuable for those of us who cook at home, because most people prefer the familiar to the exotic, and even slight variations in a favorite dish might give pause to your most appreciative audience. (If you really mess up, you might find yourself on a bus to Batesville.)

Back-to-basics movements happen from time to time because they cleanse the palate of all accumulated froth or frippery and help us remember why we liked something in the first place. The Outlaw country music of the 70s made

“Sleeping Single in a Double Bed” sound operatic. Now y’all know I love that single, and I love Barbara; she was just overproduced for profit at the time, which is the point I’m trying to make. Southern food staples are falling victim to the same marketing mojo as that banjo-pickin’ little girl from Houston, and it’s just sad. M.F. K. Fisher has a recipe for salmon pancakes (i.e. patties) in How to Cook a Wolf, which is very much a solid recommendation for their goodness, but you’ll rarely if ever see them on a restaurant menu for the simple reason that with the exception of tuna salad, dishes made with canned fish are not considered marketable commodities.

My father liked to cook a big breakfast on Sunday mornings, and he always made salmon patties. He said that his mother used to make them with jack mackerel, always adding that we should be grateful he went to law school so that he could afford to feed us salmon; as a child of the Depression, for him that was a step up in the world. Mackerel patties are almost every bit as filling and nutritious as salmon, but take it from me; they’ll make your house smell like a hot wharf all day long.

I’ll not lie to you; these salmon cakes taste best when fried in lard, or, even better, bacon grease. If that makes you clutch your chest, use Crisco. Trust me, though, olive oil just isn’t right, and butter won’t take the heat. Most people I know make salmon patties with flour, but cornmeal gives a crispier crust and a better inside texture (flour tends to make it a bit gummy). For breakfast, sawmill gravy is traditional, but for a nosh or an evening entrée, try a sauce made with two parts sour cream to one part mayonnaise seasoned with either horseradish and cayenne or dill with lemon juice. edm

Salmon Patties 16 ounce can of pink salmon 1 egg, beaten 1/2 of small white onion, grated or finely chopped White cornmeal Salt Pepper One 16 oz. can of pink salmon makes 8 to 12 cakes. Drain fish, reserving two tablespoons of the liquid. If you’re squeamish, remove the skin and bones, but I leave them because of the added nutritional value. Mix well with one beaten egg and half of a small white onion grated or very finely chopped. Add enough white corn meal to make a thick batter. You should need very little salt; I like plenty of black pepper in mine. Form into patties and fry in at least a quarter inch of oil. Brown on both sides, then place in a very warm oven (about 275) for about ten minutes to crisp the crust and ensure a cooked inside. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 41

Taste France A

of

42 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

Jay Hughes Creates French Bistro in Basement of His Oxford Home story by susan marquez | photos by bill dabney photography

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 43

Jay Hughes carves from a Jamon Iberico de Bellota, which is aged pork from a free-roaming pig raised exclusively on a diet of white acorns. Hughes said, "The result is a phenomenal buttery tasting and tender slice of ham. I keep it in the wine cellar so it can stay at 54 degrees."

W

hen Jay Hughes wants to go to Paris, he simply goes downstairs to the basement of his home off the Square in Oxford. “There’s no TSA or late flights to deal with,” he laughs. “I simply pour a glass of wine, put some Edith Piaf on the stereo and escape the cares of the day!”

Hughes and his wife, Cris, love all things French. “Early in our marriage, we could get flights to France from Memphis for $299,” says Hughes. “It was an affordable vacation option for us, and we quickly grew to love traveling to France.”

Jay Hughes grew up in South Louisiana, around Houma.

“My Uncle Leroy Laparous was a phenomenal Cajun cook.

He worked on a shrimp boat as a cook for many years, and throughout my childhood, I experienced men doing ‘big pot’ cooking – things like gumbo and jambalaya. I learned to cook from my ‘Uncle Lap.’” While in high school, Hughes worked in restaurants in his home town before going to college at LSU, where he worked at the Magnolia Café in Baton Rouge. After attending law school at Ole Miss, Hughes opened The Steamroom Grill in Jackson with a few other business partners. All the while, he and Cris still traveled to France, often taking classes at Le Cordon Bleu. “Having grown up in South Louisiana, being 44 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

in France and hearing the French language spoken all around me was like being wrapped in a comfortable blanket.”

Hughes’ father died in 2006, and Hughes decided to take some time off to regroup. “I went to Paris and took an intensive course at Le Cordon Bleu. I really thought I wanted to open a French bistro in Oxford.” Cris helped change his mind. “She reminded me that I was good at lawyering, and while I loved to cook French food, the best part of the meal was when it was over and everyone was beaming. She was right in that owning a restaurant means having to deal with food and liquor costs, employees, etc.”

So Hughes did the next best thing. He built a French bistro in his basement. “We have a large basement with ten foot ceilings,” he explains. “We found all the components of an old French bistro in Northern France, including the bar, back bar, tables, chairs, and glasses. So we designed and replicated a French bistro in our home!”

One of Jay and Cris’ favorite bistros is a little place near the flea market in Paris that is known for gypsy music. “The late Django Reinhardt played there, and many musicians play there now just to say they played where he played.” One of the things they love about the bistro is the floor. “It’s a tiled floor

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 45

46 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

that gives the illusion of being multi-dimensional. We asked about it, and it had been made at the turn of the century in Morocco.” So Hughes went to work and found a tile-broker and had the exact floor recreated for his personal bistro in Oxford. “It’s amazing. We never get tired of looking at it!”

Another interesting element in the bistro are clocks that once told time at the Gare de Lyon, a train station in Paris named after the city of Lyon, known as the culinary capital of the world. “The clocks no longer work, but we have them set at 8:25, as no self-respecting Parisian leaves for dinner before 8:30!”

The Hugheses entertain friends and family in their bistro.

“We’ve had several of our daughter’s birthday parties here,” Hughes says. “So much of life revolves around food. It’s the glue that holds together the great conversations and memo-

rable moments in our lives.”

The Hugheses call their bistro “La Brasserie du Square,” and even have dinnerware with the bistro name printed on it. “One night while the bistro was under construction, we found the dinnerware with that name printed on it online.

We decided it was perfect, so of course we ordered plenty!”

One of the things the Hugheses love to do in their bistro is host charity dinners. “We’ve hosted several, some with celebrity chefs who come and cook six-course meals. Our favorite is ‘An Evening in Paris’ where we serve six to eight people.”

On January 9, a fund raising dinner for Doors of Hope was held in the bistro. “We’ll donate the food and wine, and set it up in all its grandeur,” Hughes says, “complete with red roses and champagne on each table.” edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 47

{ from mississippi to beyond }

Culinary Crusade Spre|ding Kindness with Cupc|kes

By Kathy Kavelman Martin

J

oanna Gaston calls herself a confection communicator as she takes her kindness concept to new levels with The Kind Cake. She says that the inspiration for her Nashville-based business came from her mother and her Mississippi roots. “Love, people, faith and food are the words that immediately come to mind when I think about growing up in Mendenhall, Mississippi.” She feels grateful to have grown up surrounded by a loving family and a community that values its people, their faith and of course, home-cooked food.

If her mother, Robin, was in the kitchen, so was Gaston.

She was awed by her mom’s ability to cook or bake anything.

Even as a young girl, Gaston helped with food preparation, taste testing and delivery. “Any food that left our home did so with a purpose and I was hooked.” Her mother cooked for friends and family during sicknesses, funerals and special occasions. When Gaston moved to Los Angeles, she often baked her mother’s Mississippi spice muffins to take to friends or to have handy for visitors. Quickly, this Southern treat became highly requested for dinner parties and gettogethers.

In December of 2011, Gaston settled in Nashville and continued a songwriting venture that began in Los Angeles. While in Nashville, her love for baking and testing new recipes grew. Due to her severe nut allergy, she decided to experiment with an allergy-friendly carrot cupcake recipe that everyone could enjoy. As her cupcake creations, which were free of gluten, dairy, eggs, soy, tree nuts and peanuts, became more popular; she quickly formulated a plan to take the concept further by turning a love for baking into a business with a kindness mission. “The decision to pursue this professionally, the concept of the company and its branding happened so fast - about 45 minutes to be exact. It felt completely ordained and deliberate,” she says of her year-old company.

Gaston and her roommates were eating the leftovers of her first batch of carrot cupcakes one morning and as she sat on 48 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

Joanna Gaston

the couch in their tiny Nashville apartment, she had an “a-ha moment.” She came up with the vision, the name, the concept and finally the logistics of how the business would work and says, “It was one of those moments that was so unreal and I’m happy two of my best friends were there to experience it with me.” She still blends song writing with her business and even developed a theme song for The Kind Cake.

She sells her products at local farmers markets, which has led to a future venture with Whole Foods in Nashville. While she has support from her family and friends, her business is still primarily a one-woman operation and she delivers the cupcakes to restaurants and coffee shops three days a week from her little Honda Accord. She also handles the placement of all of the stickers under each cupcake, which feature a written act of kindness such as “Tell someone they’re beautiful” or “Visit a nursing home.” She says that people are embracing the concept and becoming champions of kindness.

With applesauce and non-dairy milk as two of the key ingredients of her recipes, she enjoys watching people try the cupcakes for the first time, seeing their transition from hesieat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 49

tant to instantly enthusiastic. “It makes you feel like you’ve cracked the code – allergy-friendly, healthier and it tastes great.” She recently converted her great grandmother Gladys’ M&M cookie recipe to fit The Kind Cake profile. She hopes to bring people these kinder and healthier creations to not only Nashville residents, but regional and national customers too.

Gaston recalls when a mother of a four-year-old son with severe food allergies contacted her. Excited to have discovered the treats and after reviewing the ingredients, the mother realized her son could have cupcakes from The Kind Cake. “He hadn’t tried a cupcake before; mine was the first he was able to eat and he loved it. I’m so thankful to provide a quality product that nearly everyone can enjoy whether you have food allergies or simply love a great cupcake.”

Gaston reiterates the love for baking that is behind The Kind Cake and that it was cultivated in that humble kitchen in Mendenhall. She misses the classic dishes made famous by her home state like catfish and turnip greens, but her favorite dish and “must-have” when she returns home is her mom’s homemade vegetable casserole. “Nearly everywhere food is love, but in Mississippi, food is love with a capital “L.” edm The Kind Cake Nashville, Tenn.

615.988.0599 www.thekindcake.com 50 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

{ from the bookshelf }

Field Peas to Foie Gras Southern Recipes with a French Accent Author: Jennifer Hill Booker | Publisher: Pelican Publishing Company by kelsey wells

C

hef Jennifer Hill Booker knows that you can come home again, and food is the perfect vehicle to get you there.

Growing up on her family's farm in Charleston, she learned basic cooking skills early. The ingredients were fresh, often homegrown, and good Southern cooking was a three-generation tradition. By the time she was a young teenager, Booker was preparing huge, tasty meals for her family because of her passion for working in the kitchen.

“My sister Naomi still complains about the amount of dishes she had to wash after one of my meals!” jokes Booker.

When she graduated from high school, Booker got the opportunity to travel to Paris, which opened up an entirely new world for her in cooking. She saw the similar techniques between French and Southern cooking and also saw preparation methods that brought out even better flavors in traditional, simple foods. She studied culinary arts at Oklahoma State University, then took her skills to Germany after marriage as a personal chef. Booker now lives in Lilburn, Georgia, where she is the executive chef and owner of Your Resident Gourmet, LLC, a personal chef and catering company. She was chosen as one of four Georgia Grown Executive Chefs, and now brings her culinary techniques together in her new cookbook, Field Peas to Foie Gras: Southern Recipes with a French Accent.

After an introduction to the volume, Booker begins with a helpful list of French cooking terms that may be unfamiliar to many traditional Southern cooks. Following are tantalizing offerings such as Peppermint Hot Chocolate, Cranberry Orange Relish, Southern Green Tomato Cha Cha, Tomato and Okra Gravy, Wild Mushroom Ragout, Cinnamon and Spice Rolls, Spring Omelet Rolls, Barbecue Spareribs and Roasted Chicken and Dumplings, along with the title recipe for Foie Gras.

Every Southern lady knows the most important section of your cookbook is the desserts, and Field Peas delivers with Meringue Cookies, Caramel Cake and Deep Dish Pecan Pie, among others.

Field Peas to Foie Gras, Booker's first cookbook, is a tasty journey from the Deep South to Paris and back home. It com-

bines the best tastes from both cultures and blends them into an eye-catching volume sure to delight foodies and become a “go-to” recipe book for those looking for a twist on traditional Southern dishes. edm

fresh field peas & snap beans 2 pounds fresh Crowder peas 2 cups fresh snap beans, trimmed and cut in half 8 ounces salt pork 1 large onion, coarsely chopped 1 dried red chili pepper Salt, to taste Freshly ground black pepper In a colander, pick over the peas and discard any misshapen or discolored peas. Rinse well and transfer to a large saucepan.

Add the salt pork, chopped onion, dried chili pepper, and 6 cups cold water. Add more water as needed to cover the peas. Cover tightly, bring to a boil over medium-high heat, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 40 minutes. Add the snap beans and cook for another 15 to 20 minutes, or until the peas and snap beans are tender.

Do not skim off the fat. Season with salt and pepper to taste. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 51

{ kitchen to kitchen }

Fearless & Fabulous Jackson Home Cook Not Afraid to Try New Recipes on Dinner Guests

by Susan Marquez

W

hile most people would cringe at the thought of serving a dish they’ve never made before at a dinner party, Dawn Macke is energized by the possibilities.

“I’ve been known to have a party just because there’s a recipe I’ve been dying to try. I guess you’d say I’m an adventurous cook who isn’t afraid to serve a new, untested recipe at home, or take it to a gathering. I just warn the guests ahead of time that they are being ‘guinea-pigged.’ I look at it as a chance to get others’ opinions.”

Macke lives in the Fondren area of Jackson with her eightyear-old son, who has a pretty adventurous palate for a boy his age. “Of course, he loves chicken nuggets as much as the next kid, but he’s never afraid to try new things.”

That adventurous nature may have come from his early years of living in Las Vegas. “He had Hispanic sitters who were always feeding him different foods.”

Just recently, Macke’s son told her he was “feeling like something from the ocean, and I don’t really want fish sticks. Let’s get a good piece of fish!” Luckily, Macke says he enjoys her cooking.

Learning at the feet of her mother and grandmother in Cleveland, Macke learned several lessons about cooking from the women in her life. “My grandfather was a Delta farmer, and much of what we ate was raised close to home. I learned to use what’s available, and I learned solid cooking techniques from both my mother and grandmother.” Macke’s mother had a baking business on the side, so she followed in her mother’s footsteps. “I did the same thing when I first got married, baking bread and other things for extra pocket money.”

Macke put her public relations degree from Mississippi College to good use when she worked at Quail Ridge Press in Bran52 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

don. After a few years, she moved to Las Vegas. She worked with a number of clients, from architects to real estate accounts, as well as handling food and beverage accounts, including her largest account, Hosbrauhaus, part of the Hosbrauhaus German beer dynasty. “It was the first and only German micro brewery, beer hall, restaurant, and beer garden in Las Vegas and an exact replica of the headquarters in Germany. Being a Southern girl who loved beer, it was an ideal account for me!”

Macke and her son moved back to Mississippi nearly five years ago. Excited about the plethora of craft beers now on the market, Macke has been doing some recipe development using beer.

“I am excited about the craft beer movement, and I’m always looking for ways to highlight beer in the state.

I’ve learned that after a party, any leftover beer takes on a different perspective if you cook with it.”

When it comes to dining photo by christina foto experiences, Macke says she’s into the food much more so than she is fancy tablescapes and matching dishes. “I’ve always been pressed for space, so the food I prepare is usually served buffet-style. I usually just holler out that it’s ready, then people can serve themselves at their leisure.”

While her entertaining style is pretty laid back, she does occasionally come up with themes for her meals, most of which are centered on the ethnicity of the food she’s serving. When asked if she prefers to eat out or at home, Macke says it’s a tough choice. “I love cooking and entertaining, so there’s that.

But the Jackson area has such great chefs and restaurants. We really have world-class chefs here. Money aside, I’d probably choose going out to eat. There’s always something new going on somewhere, all the time.” edm

Bacon Bourbon Peanut Butter Chocolate Chip Cookies

By Dawn Macke

1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour 1/4 teaspoon baking soda 1/4 teaspoon baking powder 1/4 teaspoon salt 6-8 strips bacon* 3 tablespoons softened butter 2 tablespoons reserved bacon fat 1/2 cup natural peanut butter 1/2 cup granulated sugar 1/2 cup packed brown sugar 1 large egg 3 tablespoons maple bourbon (1 small bottle or 1 tablespoon vanilla) 1 teaspoon vanilla 1/3cup semisweet chocolate chips 1/3cup English toffee bits *6 slices if good bacon, 8 slices if it’s the cheap stuff. This is also enough for any chewy ends you might want to snitch, just don’t get carried away.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Cook the bacon in a large skillet over medium heat until crisp, about four to six minutes per side. Transfer to a plate.

Reserve two tablespoons of the drippings and set aside to cool. Crumble bacon.

Combine the flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt in a large bowl. Mix well.

Beat the butter and reserved bacon drippings in a large bowl with a mixer until smooth, about one minute. Beat in the peanut butter until combined, about one minute. Beat in the granulated and brown sugar until creamy, about four minutes, then add the egg and bourbon and beat until light and fluffy, about two more minutes.

Add the flour mixture in two additions, scraping down the bowl as needed, until just combined.

Stir in bacon, chocolate chips and toffee bits.

Drop by one-inch balls two inches apart on an ungreased cookie sheet.

Bake for about 10 minutes for chewy cookies, 15 for crispier cookies.

Let cookies cool two minutes on the baking sheets, then transfer to a rack to cool completely.

Store in an airtight container for up to 3 days. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 53

from

Dawn's Kitchen Cantaloupe Bread This recipe for Cantaloupe Bread is a perfect and unexpected use of everyone’s favorite melon, but has an understated taste more reminiscent of apple. Much like ripe bananas, cantaloupe adds flavor and moisture while replacing fat in this sweet, spicy, fruity bread, but no one will believe it’s cantaloupe. Buy your melons while on sale and in season, then puree and freeze in pre-portioned bags to make Cantaloupe Bread year-round. Additionally, the bread itself freezes well. It’s one of my eight-yearold’s favorite sweets, so I cut it into thick slices and freeze individually in snack bags. This makes for a quick snack or dessert to toss into his lunch bag straight from the freezer: it’s thawed by snack or lunchtime, and helps keep his lunch cool too!

3 eggs 1/4 cup vegetable oil 2 cups white sugar 1 tablespoon vanilla extract 2 3/4 cups cantaloupe - peeled, seeded and pureed* 3 cups all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon baking soda 3/4 teaspoon baking powder 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Lightly grease and flour two 9x5 bread pans.

Beat together eggs, oil, sugar, vanilla and cantaloupe in a large bowl. In a separate bowl, combine flour, salt, baking soda, baking powder, cinnamon and ginger. Gradually stir flour mixture into cantaloupe mixture. Pour batter into prepared pans. Bake for 1 hour, or until toothpick inserted into the center of a loaf comes out clean. Cool on wire racks. *Extra cantaloupe puree replaces more fattening oil in this recipe, but you can also substitute applesauce for up to ¾ cup of the cantaloupe puree.

Spicy Balsamic Beer Marinade for Beef This is a bold, zesty marinade that makes all taste buds snap to attention. Balsamic vinegar and soy sauce pack extra punch for tenderizing cheaper cuts of meat. You can also use light beer or lager.

1/4 cup balsamic vinegar 1/4 cup soy sauce 1 (12-ounce) bottle Lazy Magnolia Deep South Pale Ale 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 1 tablespoon Worcestershire 1 teaspoon hot sauce 4 garlic cloves, minced 1 tablespoon grated onion 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon pepper Combine ingredients and mix well. Pour over meat and marinate overnight. This marinade works well with chuck steak, flank steak, flatiron steak, top round steak and sirloin steak. Makes 2 ½ to 3 cups.

Beer Brined Pork Chops With brining, salt water enters the meat’s cells while water flows out. As the salt flows in, it begins to break down some of the cell proteins, making it possible for more water to flow into the meat. This process results in more flavor and less moisture loss during cooking, yielding meat that is deeply seasoned and extra juicy.

5 cups hot water 1/3 cup kosher salt 1/2 cup packed brown sugar 2 tablespoons raw honey 1 tablespoons cracked pepper 3 garlic cloves, minced 3 bottles Lazy Magnolia Southern Pecan Nut Brown Ale 4-6 pork chops, at least 1 ¼ to 1 ½ inches thick Mix all ingredients except beer and pork chops. Stir until salt, sugar and honey dissolve. Add beer and cool to room temp. Chill brine to 40-45 degrees F; add pork chops.

Refrigerate. Soak in brine 4-6 hours, but no longer, or you run the risk of salty chops. In this case, more isn’t better!

Remove from brine, rinse, and allow to dry. Grill over hot coals 15-20 minutes, or until done (145 to 150 degrees F for medium)

continued on page 81 54 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

Serio' s Greenwood

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Frog's Pearl Station Sardis

The Hills The Delta -

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La Brioche Patisserie -

Harvest Grill Meridian The Pines

Jackson

Capital/River

Our wonderful state is divided into five travel regions - The Hills, The Delta, The Pines, Capital/River, and Coastal. It is our goal to give equal coverage to all regions of the state in every issue. The following sections are color coded by region for your convenience. We hope you will take the time and travel to all regions to take advantage of the diverse culinary styles present throughout our state.

We do suggest that you call to verify operating hours before visiting any of these wonderful establishments.

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MagnolBiloxi ia House -

Coastal

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 55

The Hills

Becca and Dutch Van Oostendorp 56 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

The Hills

Life Is Sweet in Sardis Story and Photography by Liz Barrett

I

f you’ve ever been to Sardis, you know that it’s famous for two things: Sardis Lake and the award-winning pizzeria TriBecca Allie Cafe. This past December, TriBecca’s owners, Dutch and Becca Van Oostendorp, opened a coffee and sweets cafe next door to their famous pizzeria and named it Frog’s Pearl Station. “Waiting room is limited at TriBecca Allie Cafe, so we wanted to open a space where our customers could go and have a cup of coffee, browse the gift shop, or have an appetizer while waiting for their table,” says Becca.

“After a meal, it’s a great place to go and hang out for dessert and coffee.”

Why the name Frog’s Pearl Station? The origin of the

name is a romantic one that’s best explained in person by Becca and Dutch. Let’s just say it involves a love of swimming, a love of golf, and, ultimately, a love for each other.

Long before becoming Frog’s Pearl Station, the historic red-and-white gingerbread-style house at 218 South Main Street was once home to the law offices of Senator and Judge John W. Kyle. Renovated about 20 years ago to its original glory with custom millwork, reclaimed heart pine floors from Alabama, charming Scottish wallpaper and breezy window dressings from England, the spot is a cozy getaway for lazy afternoons spent sipping coffee and eating cake.

And speaking of food, mouths water when faced with

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 57

The Hills

58 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

appetizer selections ranging from shrimp dip to oak-roasted mushrooms to homemade bread and olive oil. Specialty cakes, including Limoncello mascarpone and chocolate mousse are shipped in from an Italian baker in New Jersey; homemade ice cream flavors such as rum raisin, Nutella, butter pecan, and pistachio are custom created for the restaurant

by Memphis’ popular La Michoacana; and gelato is imported from Italy in flavors ranging from hazelnut to vanilla bean to salted caramel.

Steamy cappuccinos, espressos, lattes and mochas are enjoyed alongside muffins, cookies, cannolis, biscotti, puff pastries, and Becca’s special Sunday cinnamon rolls, while children of all ages fight over who will get the last sip of oldtime soda floats.

Neighbors volunteer their time at the Frog’s Pearl Station gift shop, where unique wares from local artisans are nestled amongst jars of honey and fragrant soaps, while outside, preparations are underway for springtime entertaining on the side patio and backyard porch.

Hours at Frog’s Pearl Station currently coincide with those at TriBecca Allie Cafe, making it easy for Becca and Dutch to move easily between the two. edm Frog’s Pearl Station 218 S. Main Street, Sardis 662.487.1812 www.frogspearl.com

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 59

The Delta

Family Affair From Recipes to Traditions, Serio’s Keeps It All in the Family Story by Jo Alice Darden Photography courtesy of Serio’s by Green Olive Media

C

hef Lee Leflore has quite a heritage to live up to. In the To that education Chef Lee added a degree in hospitalrestaurant business for generations, his family has set ity management from Ole Miss, followed by an accelera high culinary standard for him to follow, especially ated course of study at the Culinary Institute of America at in Italian cuisine. And he appears more than equal to the Greystone in California and eight months of intense training challenge as the head chef of the recently re-opened Serio’s in under Chef Emeril Lagasse at his flagship restaurant, NOLA, Greenwood. in New Orleans. On his return to Greenwood, Chef Lee The original Serio’s, established in 1943 by Chef Lee’s became the chef at Giardina’s, the restaurant of The Alluvian, great-grandmother’s brother, the downtown boutique hotel Salvo Serio, offered homemade opened by another uncle, Fred Italian fare, the recipes for Carl, who founded Viking which had been in the family Range Corp. for years, and diners could even “We are constantly evolvhave their meals delivered to ing,” said Chef Lee. He listens to their cars by carhops in white Serio’s customers, adjusting the uniforms. The restaurant closed menu based on their feedback when Salvo retired in the 1970s, and presenting new items to but the succeeding generations keep the selections fresh and of the close-knit family kept the appealing. He enjoys offering recipes alive for their frequent a white-linen, casual-dining gatherings, where food continexperience where adults with ues to be the centerpiece. sophisticated tastes and families In December 2013, Chef with young children feel equally Lee’s uncle, Frank Leflore, comfortable. opened the new Serio’s. The The restaurant offers restaurant draws its clientele outdoor dining on its patio, from all ages – from diners who weather permitting, and even remember the original place to features a regulation-sized young families who are excited bocce court. about having a new Italian Customer favorites include restaurant in town. the open-faced meatball sandThe “pasta gravy” is one wich, the open-faced Italian major attraction. Chef Lee said sausage sandwich, and the angel the term is Sicilian family slang hair pasta, which are all served Chef Lee Leflore for the rich tomato sauce that with the family’s traditional forms the basis for many of the menu selections, such as the pasta gravy. Mama Serio’s lasagna, made with “lots of cheese,” spaghetti and the open-faced sausage and meatball sandaccording to Chef Lee – including whole-milk mozzarella – is wiches. a perennial favorite, too.

Chef Lee learned how to make the pasta gravy by watchThe broiled shrimp dish reflects Cajun influences, Chef ing his grandmother make it in her kitchen.

Lee said, and the shrimp and grits contains fresh parmesan “We have the recipes written down, of course,” Chef Lee cheese in a Worcestershire vin blanc. The tamales are made said, “but I’ve never seen them. I just watched and learned in-house from a recipe Salvo Serio used. Steaks are cooked to that way.” order, and customers rave about the toppings, which include 60 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

The Delta

Broiled Shrimp

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 61

The Delta

Shrimp and Grits

Open Face Italian Sausage Sandwich

photo by jo alice darden

bleu cheese butter and roasted garlic butter (recipe below).

Meals are prepared from the freshest ingredients available, many of which are locally sourced. Seafood comes from the Gulf, and the chef buys many of the vegetables locally.

Desserts include tiramisu, rich cheesecakes and ice cream, all expected in an Italian restaurant, all homemade. But one of the most popular desserts is the Italian cream cake, made

by Chef Lee himself with coconut and cream cheese. It’s moist and dense – the perfect ending to a lovely evening out.

“We serve the food our family eats,” Chef Lee said. That’s an offer Serio’s customers can’t refuse. edm Serio’s Restaurant 506 Yalobusha St., Greenwood 662.453.4826 www.seriosrestaurant.com 62 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

Grilled Salmon with Dill Butter and Sautéed Vegetables

The Delta

Roasted Garlic Butter Steak Topping 1/4 pound (1 stick) unsalted butter 1/4 cup roasted garlic 1-1/2 teaspoons salt 2 tablespoons chopped parsley Mix together until thoroughly blended. Spread over warm steak.

Steak and Asparagus

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 63

The Pines

Feel at Home at

Harvest Grill story by julie skipper photos provided

64 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

The Pines

Tartare Nachos

Quinoa Cups

T

hey say home is where the heart is. For Mary and Marshall Gilmore, the desire to raise a family in a place that felt like home brought them back to Meridian, and to pour their hearts into building not only a home, but a restaurant. That restaurant is Harvest Grill, and they hope it becomes a place that comes to feel as welcoming as home for Meridianites.

Marshall, 33, grew up in Meridian, then studied business at the University of Mississippi. After graduation in 2004, he moved to Hawaii and got a job cooking on Waikiki Beach. In time, he found himself in Vail, Colorado, working at the Park Hyatt Resort in Beaver Creek and Terra Bistro, a fine dining establishment. After completing formal studies at Johnston & Wales in Denver, Marshall became sous chef at the Gashouse, a wild game restaurant in the Vail Valley.

There, he met Mary, who owned a flower and gift shop.

The two married in 2009, and in 2012, celebrated the birth of their son William. With their family expanded, the couple found themselves talking about moving back closer to home

(Mary is originally from Arkansas). They wanted to “raise William like we grew up,” says Mary.

With that in mind, Marshall called a buddy in Meridian who knew about commercial real estate, and he happened to have recently bought a building in downtown. The chef flew to Mississippi to look at the property, liked it, and the rest, as they say, is history. Mary sold her flower shop, and in July 2014, the family packed up, moved, and started renovations.

Opening the restaurant became a labor of love for the couple, who worked as a team on the effort. While Marshall took charge of the menu and back of the house, Mary created a story board of the environment the two envisioned—someeat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 65

The Pines

Chocolate Molten 66 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

where “warm, traditional, and comfortable.”

Design-wise, the restaurant feels welcoming and homey, and includes a patio that seats 25 covered by an awning and ceiling fans. While upon entry, there’s a small bar and cocktail area, the focus is on food and fellowship. “We wanted to be a restaurant with a bar, not a bar with food,” explains Mary.

Along those lines, she continues, “We don’t want a lot of color in the building; we want the food to be the color. The food pops, and everything else is monochromatic.”

That monochromatic color palette consists of blues and greys, with wood and accents of copper to keep a “warm, masculine, clean look.” Artwork is large-scale black and white landscapes of Mississippi, some by Reggie Thomas, a local photographer, along with two images of Marshall’s from his time in Colorado. The décor is sprinkled with nods to Colorado lodges, including bread baskets made from Aspen bark and a lodge-style gate out front.

The restaurant’s name is intended to feel warm and welcoming, too. Despite his travels out West, Marshall remained in touch throughout the years with a group of friends from high school who reunited annually to throw a party called the Harvest. The Harvest was all about good food and fellowship, and Mary laughs as she recalls, “It always ended up with Marshall cooking the whole time.” For him, “If you have a good group of people and good food, you can’t beat that.” It seemed a natural name for a place they wanted to welcome guests.

The couple discovered that the restaurant building used to house a restaurant called the Davis Grill, so they included “Grill” in the name in tribute to its history.

As for the couple’s history, the food reflects their time in Colorado, as well as the chef ’s time in Hawaii. Harvest Grill serves what the chef calls “cross-country” cuisine that incorporates bits of pieces from his “adventures in the culinary world.” Those influences include citrus and fish from Hawaii and grilled meats from Colorado, but prepared with a Mississippi twist.

Mary relates that crawfish mashed potatoes are a big hit, but people also love the fresh ahi tuna, salmon, and cobia, a favorite of Marshall’s. The menu also includes vegetarian dishes like quinoa cups in a lettuce wrap with avocado balsamic tomatoes. The “Colorado Campfire” dessert, with house-made graham crackers and marshmallows, lets folks make their own s’mores and is a big hit among families with children and the young at heart.

From the bar, the Mississippi Mule provides a local take on the Moscow Mule cocktail. Harvest Grill’s version uses Mississippi distilled Cathead vodka and a house-made ginger beer.

Blending where they’ve come from with where they’re from, the Gilmores have created a place special to them that they hope becomes special for others as well. The venue recently booked its first wedding rehearsal dinner, so it will soon be an important part of another couple’s story—the first of many, they predict. edm Harvest Grill 618 22nd Ave., Meridian 601.282.5069 www.harvestgrillms.com

The Pines

Jerk-Crusted Cobia

Yellowfin Tuna

Filet

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 67

Capital/River

A French Patisserie in Fondren

story by julie skipper photography this page by j.j. carney remaining photography

by Timothy Ledger

J

ackson’s funky Fondren neighborhood might not be where two young sisters in Argentina imagined themselves building a business one day, but for Cristina Lazzari and Alejandra Sprouts, it’s the perfect place to be. The two opened a patisserie, La Brioche, in the Fondren Corner building in September 2014. The pastry shop represents the culmination of years of effort and a story that’s both international and local.

The sisters were born in Argentina to a family of farmers who moved to Miami, Florida, when Lazarri was eleven and Sprouts was nine. Since Miami’s climate isn’t the easiest in which to farm, the family migrated to Mississippi.

In the Jackson area, they started a greenhousebased business called Deva’s Harvest; Lazzari explains with pride that it was the first certified organic farm in Mississippi, growing lettuces, and edible flowers and selling produce to farmers markets as well as local restaurants like Mint and Local 463. In addition to the Mississippi Farmers Market, the farm participated in the Belhaven Market, where the sisters built relationships with other farmers and producers and started to feel part of a community.

Lazzarri was more of the farmer between the two sisters; she studied horticulture in Sweden before having embarked upon the family farming business. Sprouts, by contrast, “always loved sugar and art,” and decided to follow those 68 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

Capital/River

interests into baking, completing the L’Art de la Patisserie program at the French Pastry School in Chicago, Illinois. While Sprouts honed her experience working and staging at hotels and restaurants in Chicago after graduation, Lazzarri continued to farm, but in the back of her mind, an idea began to percolate: “I always loved coffee…” she begins. Growing up in Argentina, she loved the culture of cafes, and she missed having a place where people could go for coffee and high-end pastries.

Ultimately, the idea became “kind of like if Mohammad won’t come to the mountain, you bring the mountain to Mohammad,” she says with a smile. And so, the pair combined their skills and set out to bring a European café to Jackson. They started out using the farmers market as a test kitchen of sorts during 2013, with limited offerings.

“We had an overwhelming response from our custom-

ers there, and also realized Jackson is more international than you’d think,” Lazzari recalls. That positive reaction and support gave them confidence to proceed.

Next, they had to find a location for a brick-andmortar shop. Says Lazzari, “We always liked Fondren. It’s one of the few places where you can walk around, and it’s very friendly. It can be bohemian, but also high-end, and it gives you great freedom because we are also a blend of things…I don’t want to put ourselves in one category; we’re for everybody, and I think Fondren has something for everybody.”

And it’s true; sitting in the patisserie chatting with her over coffee one weekday morning, folks from all walks of life come to the counter: architects from the CDFL firm nearby on a mid-morning break, neighborhood moms with babies, ladies who lunch in yoga pants stopping

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 69

Capital/River

70 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

by after class, students from Millsaps College.

The sisters’ initial idea was to have a breakfast place, so they offer traditional croissants and morning pastries, but they also have high-end desserts for an afternoon treat or parties and house-made ice cream. So, while small in size, the shop offers a full experience--“The coffee, the ice cream, the pastries, for us, that makes it complete,” explains Lazzarri. Soon, they hope to add chocolates; from her French training, Sprouts loves to make chocolate artwork. Indeed, each pastry in the case is a work of art, and that’s intentional. That way, Lazzarri explains, “even if something’s small, it can become a gift.”

That attention to detail and care runs through every aspect of the experience. The baking staff of four works out of a kitchen in the basement of the building making everything the bakery sells except for the bread, which comes from Gil’s Bread in Ridgeland, so it’s also locally made. Continuing their commitment to local product, La Brioche’s coffee comes from Northshore Specialty Coffee, whose purveyor was

Capital/River

their neighbor at the farmers market, and most of the eggs the bakery uses are from Brown Egg Company in Bentonia. “I know what it is to be a farmer,” says Lazzarri, so supporting local farms is an important part of her philosophy.

The philosophy results in high-quality products. As Lazzarri puts it, “We were always looking for quality (with farming)--we did microgreens, which is very tedious, and certified organic, because we felt that’s the highest you can get.” That experience helped lead the sisters to the bakery, not only in providing a testing ground, but also by helping them to become part of a community.

“The farmer’s market helped us to learn a different side of Jackson…you have all these stereotypes in your head, but we’ve had a great experience. We really can call Jackson home.” edm La Brioche 2906 N. State St., Jackson 601.988.2299 www.labriochems.com

Sisters Alejandra Sprouts and Cristina Lazzari recently opened La Brioche Patisserie in the Fondren area of Jackson.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 71

Coastal

mouthwatering magnolia house story and photography by julian brunt

O

ne of the South’s rising culinary stars is Chef Kelly English.

He was Food and Wine Magazine’s Best New Chef in 2009, and is the executive chef and owner of two of Memphis’ favorite restaurants, Iris and The Second Line. In May he opened Magnolia House in Harrah’s Gulf Coast Casino, Biloxi and the food world is all a-buzz about what he is doing there.

Chef English is a Louisiana native, a University of Mississippi grad, and graduated at the top of his class at the prestigious Culinary Institute of America. He worked for

72 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

Chef John Besh in New Orleans before deciding on a move to Memphis, where recognition for his talented approach to Southern food continues to receive accolades.

All the awards in the world mean nothing at all if the restaurant you are sitting in doesn’t perform as advertised, but Magnolia House is on solid ground. The menu is seasonal, so expect big changes, but that should be a matter of great anticipation, not despair. The current menu is a one pager, but again, that should be a point of confidence. A tight menu brims with confidence.

Coastal

Mahi Mahi with Pontchartrain Sauce

Roasted Butternut Squash with Brown Sugar and Butter

Chef Kelly English

Herbed Butter and Dauphinoise Potatoes

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 73

Coastal

Ms. Stella’s Roast Beef Po-boy with Béarnaise Sauce

The small plate list is only eight strong, but a grand meal could easily be made from this seafood-heavy opportunity. The one exception, and it is one of the best items on the list, is Miss Stella’s open face roast beef po-boy. Don’t you dare leave this house without trying it.

Another outstanding and delightful choice is the pimento and cheese stuffed Gulf shrimp with comeback sauce.

To elevate this plebeian Southern favorite to such august heights is a very cool touch.

The seafood selection is a slim list of six choices, but what a great list it is. Mississippi Delta catfish never had it so good! Chef English uses a traditional corn base to fry these filets, and follows on with brown butter pecans and brabant potatoes (a recipe that calls for the potatoes to be simmered in water, drained and fried quickly in hot oil).

Other choices that are enticing are the Gulf crab carbonara, another grand idea, and classic shrimp and grits.

The land-food offering is surprisingly diverse and isn’t

74 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

overly concerned with beef, although the Restaurant Iris short rib ravioli served with a demi-glace seems almost too good to be true! The chicken with red beans and rice cassoulet is also a nice touch, and if you are serious about your beef, the wagyu burger should top your list.

This is a comfortable place to dine, sophisticated, but welcoming. Chef English goes out of his way to be farm to table, as well as Gulf to table. The menu is solid, the wine list does its job, and you will leave this place as content as you can. A special note should be made about service at Magnolia House; it just could not get higher marks.

Put Magnolia House on your short list! edm Magnolia House by Kelly English Harrah’s Gulf Coast 280 Beach Boulevard, Biloxi 228.436.2946 www.caesars.com/harrahsgulfcoast/restaurants/magnolia-house.html

Coastal

Grilled Pork Tenderloin with Gnocchi, Wild Mushrooms, Spinach and Sauce Dainne

White Chocolate Blondie eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 75

{ featured event }

For the Love of Lebanese Cooking story By Lisa LaFontaine Bynum photos provided

R

olled cabbage, tabbouleh, kibbeh. It’s not your typical Southern cuisine. However, for a group of churchgoers at St. George’s Orthodox Church in Vicksburg, it’s traditional according to their Lebanese heritage. It’s a tradition the church likes to share with the citizens of Vicksburg at their Annual Lebanese dinner and one the community whole-heartedly embraces.

Church member and Vicksburg-native Mary Louise Nosser considers herself the most “senior, senior” member of the group that comes together to prepare the enormous amount of food served at the dinner every year. She has been involved with the preparations since moving back to Vicksburg from Atlanta in the late sixties.

“St. George’s was the church I was raised in. When I came back, they asked if I would help,” Nosser says. “It’s just something everyone does, like lighting a candle on Sunday morning.”

The annual dinner is St. George’s biggest fundraiser of the year. Nosser estimates when she began helping out with the dinner, then in its eighth year, the church sold approximately 300400 meals. This year marks the 55th annual dinner and Nosser predicts they could stand to feed 3,000 or more people.

While the quantity of food has grown considerably, Nosser says the menu always stays the same, though they have added desserts and pastries over the years. Every volunteer has an assignment and each person has their recipe down to an exact science.

“Over time, we had to adopt one recipe for each dish,” she explains. “You get all these people preparing food and every one of them is using a different recipe, the consistency was never the same. So we agreed on a recipe and now the ladies all have it down to an exact science.”

She adds, “One thing about Lebanese cooking, there are no shortcuts. We use fresh butter, the best pecans, and the best ground beef.”

It should come as no surprise that preparing the food starts days in advance. The 12,000 cabbage rolls, which contain ground beef, rice, and spices tightly rolled in a boiled cabbage leaf, require two days of preparation. The 157 pans of kibbeh, the main meat dish of the Lebanese, calls for seven, 50 pound bags of onions. Luckily, the ladies have food processors to help

76 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

Mary Louise Nosser, far right, works with ladies at St. George's Orthodox Church in Vicksburg to put on their annual Lebanese Dinner.

them chop all those onions, but Nosser does recall the days when onions had to be chopped by hand.

“Your eyes would burn at first, but eventually they got used to it [the onions] and they wouldn’t burn anymore.”

Diners can get their meals to go, although many enjoy eating at the church and catching up with people in the community.

Nosser recommends arriving early and purchasing a second meal to enjoy the next day.

“I hate myself when I don’t get a dinner for the next day,” she says.

She agrees preparing for the annual dinner is a lot of hard work, claiming that after getting a few under her belt she feels like she can handle just about anything. But she has no plans of retiring from the dinner or hanging up the red and white polka dotted apron she wears every year anytime soon.

“It’s been said the only way you can get out of helping with the dinner is to die,” she laughs. “I’m really proud of the work we do and I get more pleasure out of it every year. People ask us how the food keeps getting better and better. I just say it must be God’s hands. He blesses it for us every year.” edm

A lot of work goes into preparing the from-scratch pastries, like Sambooski, that are served.

See calendar listing on next page for event details. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 77

{ calendar }

Fill Your Plate

February/March 2015

Food Festivals & Events

February 9 Vicksburg - Lebanese Dinner

February 21 D'Iberville - BBQ Throwdown & Festival

The 54th Annual Lebanese Dinner will be held on February 9 from 11:00 a.m. until 2:00 p.m. and from 5:00 p.m. until 7:00 p.m. at St. George Antiochian Orthodox Christian Church, 2709 South Washington Street, Vicksburg. The meal consists of cabbage rolls, kibbee, Lebanese green beans and tabooli. A selection of Lebanese pastries will also be for sale and take-outs will be available. Tickets are $11 and may be purchased from church members or by calling 601-636-2483.

•••

February 11 Taste of Oxford

The 8th annual Taste of Oxford presented by Regions Bank benefitting St. Jude Children's Research Hospital is set for February 11. Enjoy fabulous food by local restaurants: Ember's, Funky's, Gus's Fried Chicken, Lenora's, My Michelle's, Old Venice Pizza Co., Proud Larry's, Rib Cage, Round Table on the Square, South Depot Taco Shop, St. Jude Chef Miles McMath, and Woodson Ridge Farms. There will also be a silent and live auction along with live music. To purchase tickets or to sponsor the event, please call Lisa Heros Ellis at 901.373.5051 or email to lisa.ellis@ stjude.org.

78 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

In D'Iberville's annual BBQ chicken, ribs and brisket cook-off, teams compete for over $5,000 in cash and prizes. Held at the D'Iberville Civic Center, the event continues to grow yearly with the addition of a youth BBQ cook-off. Bring the kids as they can win cash and prizes as well. Live entertainment is provided all day along with arts and crafts, face painting, children's activities and games, clowns, Pulled Pork Taste Tent, and, of course, barbeque.

This event is sanctioned by the International BBQ Cookers Association and has been named a Southeast Tourism Society Top 20 Winter Event. For more information, call 228-392-9734 or 228-257-9734.

•••

March 1 Southaven - Mumbo Gumbo Cook-off The 5th Annual Mumbo Gumbo Cook-Off will be held March 1 at 10:00 a.m. at Fillin' Station Grille West, 4840 Venture Dr. in Southaven. Enjoy the cook-off with live music and all of the gumbo you can eat! For more information, visit www.fillinstationgrille.com or call 662-510-5423. This event benefits DeSoto Art Council's Art for Autism.

March 13-14 Tupelo - Don't Be Cruel BBQ Duel

The Don't Be Cruel BBQ Duel benefitting the Link Centre will be held on March 13-14 at Fairpark in Downtown Tupelo. This is a Kansas City Barbecue Society Sanctioned Competition offering $17,500 in cash prizes. For more information, visit www.tupelobbqduel.com or email tupelobbq@gmail.com.

To have your food festival or culinary event included in future issues, please contact us at

March 17-23 Starkville Restaurant Week

The Starkville Convention & Visitors Bureau will host the 2nd annual Starkville Restaurant Week on March 17-23. This event aims to showcase the very best culinary specialties Starkville has to offer. Plus, every time you eat, you’ll have the opportunity to help a local charity win $5,000 from Cadence Bank, the charity sponsor. For more information, visit www. starkvillerestaurantweek.com.

info@eatdrinkmississippi.com. All submissions are subject to editor's approval.

Thurman’s Landscaping Landscaping • Irrigation Waterfalls • Lighting Outdoor Kitchens & Patios Iron & Brick Work

601.270.8512 eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 79

Recipe Index

Advertisers Index

Bacon Avocado Dip, 80 Basil Aioli, 19 Beer Brined Pork Chops, 54 Beer Candied Bacon, 81 Blackberry-Chia Refrigerator Jam, 25 Bacon Bourbon Peanut Butter Chocolate Chip Cookies, 53 Cantaloupe Bread, 54 Chia Energy Balls, 24 Fresh Field Peas & Snap Beans, 51 Homemade Southern Red Beans and Rice, 21 M&M Cookies, 50 Oat and Chia Crusted French Toast Sticks, 23 Raspberry Strawberry Yogurt Smoothie, 17 Roasted Garlic Butter Steak Topping, 63 Salmon Patties, 41 Smoky Ballistic Blonde Salmon, 81 Spicy Balsamic Beer Marinade for Beef, 54

Bill Dabney Photography, 16 Christina Foto, 4 Don't Be Cruel BBQ Duel, 13 Etta B Pottery, 16 Metal Builders Supply, 9 Mississippi Market, 3 MS Delta Ducks, 28 Ridgeland Tourism, 6 Sante South Wine Festival, Back Cover The Kitchen Table, 9 The Manship, 4 The Strawberry Cafe, 16 Thurman's Landscaping, 79 Tupelo, 2 Visit Columbus, 11

STORE INFORMATION from pages 14-15

Belk 1.866.235.5443 • www.belk.com Mississippi locations - Biloxi, Columbus, Corinth, Flowood, Gautier, Greenville, Gulfport, Hattiesburg, Laurel, McComb, Meridian, Natchez, Oxford, Ridgeland, Tupelo, Vicksburg Pantone 1.866.726.8663 www.pantone.com Pier 1 Imports Mississippi locations - Flowood, Gulfport, Hattiesburg, Ridgeland, Southaven, Tupelo 1.800.245.4595 www.pier1.com

Target www.target.com Mississippi locations - D'Iberville, Flowood, Hattiesburg, Horn Lake, Jackson, Olive Branch The Kitchen Table 3720 Hardy St., Suite 3 Hattiesburg, MS 39402 601.261.2224 www.kitchentablenow.com Williams-Sonoma 1000 Highland Colony Pkwy.

Ridgeland, MS 39157 601.898.8882 www.williams-sonoma.com

Bacon Avocado Dip 1 large avocado, peeled and mashed 1/2 tomato, seeded and chopped 1/3 cup Blue Diamond Jalapeño Smokehouse Almonds, chopped 1/4 cup diced red onion 3 strips cooked bacon, roughly chopped 2 tablespoons sour cream 1 teaspoon minced garlic Juice of 1/2 lime Salt and pepper, to taste In small bowl, mix all ingredients. Serve with tortilla chips or your favorite flavor of Nut Thins. Servings: 1 cup.

80 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

continued from page 52

will the salmon be too salty, but it also will lose texture as the citrus breaks it down further. Remove from brine 12-24 hours before smoking, reserving brine. This allows time for the fish to dry and flavors to distribute through the fillet.

Rub fillet with olive oil. Prepare smoker, using reserved brine in the drip pan. Smoke fillet at 230-250 degrees F for 40 to 60 minutes or until fish flakes easily with a fork.

Smoky Ballistic Blonde Salmon Whereas some fancy recipes might suggest poaching your fish in wine with vegetables, we suggest letting it swim in a nice, cold citrus bath with some beer, and then bask over a low fire infused with apple wood. You can buy Lucky Town Ballistic Blonde, available primarily on tap, in a growler from Hops and Habanas in Madison.

Beer Candied Bacon Need a snack to tide you over while you grill? You may have heard about the decadence known as “pig candy,” which is bacon baked with a coating of brown sugar. It only gets better in this addictive variation, glazed with hints of orange peel and coriander from Lazy Magnolia Indian Summer and a bite of spice. Final texture will also depend on the quality and fat content of your bacon, but it will continue to crisp as it cools. And if not—no worries.

Spiced bacon taffy is pretty good too.

Brine: 5 cups water 1/2 cup salt 1/4 cup brown sugar 1/4 cup raw local honey 1 tablespoons whole peppercorns, crushed 4 garlic cloves, minced 4 large bay leaves 1 orange, halved 1/2 lemon 1/2 lime 1 tablespoon chopped ginger 2 tablespoons soy sauce 32 ounces Lucky Town Ballistic Blonde

2 ounces Lazy Magnolia Indian Summer Wheat Ale 1/2 cup light brown sugar 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper 1/4 teaspoon ginger 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon 1 pound bacon

1-1/2 – 2 pound salmon fillet, approximately 1-inch thick Combine all ingredients except beer and fish in a large non-reactive stockpot. Bring to a boil, stirring until salt and sugars dissolve. Remove from heat; cool to room temperature. Add beer and chill brine to 40-45 degrees. Submerge fish in brine, adding water if needed to cover. Chill and soak for 10-12 hours. Again, do not over-soak. Not only

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Combine everything but the bacon in a small bowl, mixing well. The glaze will be a thin syrup. Cook bacon on a rack for 10 minutes, then flip. Cook another 10 minutes, and flip once more. Brush with glaze.

Cook an additional 20-30 minutes, brushing frequently, until bacon is deep red and crisp.

coming to terms

Of THEKitchen IN

E

TH

with julian brunt

Sweetbreads Veal sweetbreads may be one of the most underappreciated cuts of meat in the USA. It is the thymus of the calf and is a delicacy around the world. To the French it is the ris de veau. They can be cooked in many ways, but are almost always blanched first, then fried, roasted or broiled. Larousse Gastronomique, the encyclopedia of French cooking, list a dozen recipes, including braised in stock, sautéed in bread crumbs, au gratin, and as fritters.

Sweetbreads differ from most other organ meat in that they are not overpowering. They must be cleaned properly, but that means only removing the membrane that holds them together. When properly cooked, they are very juicy, mild in flavor, and have a velvety texture. Once you try them you will be hooked! edm eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 81

Falling in Love with Food

BILL DABNEY PHOTOGRAPHY

{ till we eat again }

BY JAY REED

E

very now and then I look at how much my life has been affected verily, changed - by food, and I just shake my head. Of course there is the obvious - just about everybody eats.

And we could talk about how important food is to Southern culture, and why we take casseroles to funerals, and why dates almost always involve a meal, an ice cream cone, or a coffee. But not now - I think I’ll save those ideas for later.

This is about how the last five of my forty-something annums have absolutely turned my tummy around.

I’ve always loved to eat. As a kid, most of my buddies were scrawny and of normal height - I was neither. In fact, I embraced the motto of Garfield the cat: “I’m not overweight, I’m undertall.”

I have one picture, however, as a senior in high school sitting at a graduation dinner, when I was absolutely chiseled.

Chiseled, I say. I lifted weights that year, and I love that picture - because there is only one. The '80s outfit is not inspiring, but the BMI is. It’s been downhill ever since.

Falling in love with food as a subject, though, is a more recent development. It was only about seven years ago that I first put together a self-published (literally, with a printer and a paper cutter) cookbook with family recipes and stories sprinkled among them. Those stories later morphed into my first newspaper columns, an endeavor that has led to all sorts of food-centric fun I

82 • FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

could have never imagined. And I eat it up. Pun entirely intended.

That makes it all the more puzzling, however, when I am asked, “When you were traveling in such and such a place, I bet you had all kinds of great food there, huh?” Usually, if I was in the country of Such-and-Such anytime prior to the last decade, the answer is, “Well, not really.” Truth be told, I just wasn’t aware of food then. I ate a lot, and I ate well, but I wasn’t paying attention. And I didn’t carry a camera to take pictures of everything I ate, either - shocker, I know. But despite my pre-foodie ignorance and lack of photographic documentation, there were definitely signs of what was to come.

My entre’ into the possibilities of a culinary life was a Calvin Trillin book on tape. It wasn’t even about food, but I enjoyed it, and later found other Trillin books that were very much about food and travel. As a direct result, it didn’t take long for my travel journals to evolve into “This is what I ate in France, and oh yeah, we saw a tall tower, a church, and a painting or two.”

Before that I went on two cruises.

One was with a bunch of guys while I was still single. On that one I learned that cruise food is never-ending. So when I went back with The Wife on our honeymoon. I knew the drill and showed up every time a meal was served. I don’t know if that qualifies as “culinarily aware.” That might be more

Jay Reed, a graduate of Ole Miss, lives in Starkville where he is a pharmacist by day and a freelance food writer by day off. He is a member of the Southern Foodways Alliance and writes "Eats One Ate," a weekly column in the Starkville Daily News.

like gluttony.

One of my buddies from the first cruise, as it happens, also played a key role in my developing edible awareness, at least in hindsight. Our apartments were back to back, and we went out to eat together a good bit. One of our favorite places was a Mexican restaurant just down the street. I have no idea what I ordered regularly, aside from the fact that it was undoubtedly something Mexican. Harry always got a cheeseburger. Surely the fact that I thought he was a nut brain for ordering a cheeseburger in a Mexican restaurant was an early sign of my growing sensibilities.

By the time I saw camel in a butcher shop for the first time and got excited, I think I was a goner. (It wasn’t in Mississippi, by the way. It wasn’t even in America, but it still counts.) Around that same time I found myself reading cookbooks for children in the back seat of my brother’s van - and taking notes.

An avalanche ensued.

Thanks to Calvin for the inspiration, to Harry for the consternation, and Carnival Cruises for the Celebration. It’s a pretty great life. edm

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