Eat Drink Mississippi June July 2014

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI JUNE/JULY 2014

the delicious legacy of

Heirloom Tomatoes page 32

$

4.95

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SOUTHERN-STYLE CRAWFISH BOIL PIG PICKIN' CAKE FOODIE FORAY ON 49 eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 1

2 JUNE/JULY 2014

VOLUME 3 • NUMBER 4

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2014

JUNE/JULY

24 "Food is our common ground, a universal experience."

James Beard

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 3

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4 JUNE/JULY 2014

CONTENTS 15

11 WHAT'S HOT Remake of an American Classic

14 FRESH PICKED YEAR 'ROUND St. Bethany Fresh Growing Tomatoes Hydroponically

20 FEATURED FESTIVAL Crystal Springs Tomato Festival

24 ANNUAL JACKSON RITUAL The Anatomy of a SouthernStyle Crawfish Boil

30 MISSISSIPPI MADE Sarabella's Southern Sauces

36 COMMUNITY Society of St. Andrew

39 IN THE PODLIGHT Garden Brew

40 SWEET SUMMER TREAT Celebrating the 4th with Watermelons

44 FOODIE FORAY Mississippi Highway 49 Offers Many Culinary Stops Worth Slowing Down For

44

50 KITCHEN TO KITCHEN Home Cook David Bowman Never Fails to Impress

55

72

54 FROM MISSISSIPPI TO BEYOND William Stitt Building Burgers in Alabama

57 FROM THE BOOKSHELF The B.T.C. Old Fashioned Grocery Cookbook

58 RAISE YOUR GLASS Cold Cuppa Joe

60 THE HILLS Piggin' Out at Pickwick

64 THE DELTA Veronica's Bakery in Greenwood

68 THE PINES Proffitt's Porch in Columbus

IN EVERY ISSUE 6 From the Editor 8 From Our Readers 12 Fabulous Foodie Finds 18 Deep South Dish 53 Coming to Terms 80 Recipe/Ad Index 81 Events 82 Till We Eat Again

72 CAPITAL/RIVER Anjou Restaurant in Ridgeland

76 COASTAL Scooters in Poplarville

ON THE COVER: Take full advantage of tomato season with heirloom tomatoes. See page 32. Recipe, food styling, and photography by Lisa Bynum. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 5

{ from the editor }

W

hat's on your agenda for the summer? My family's is stacked pretty full with camps, a convention, college orientation, and more. I'm sure I'll be able to squeeze in a few culinary excursions, though.

I married into the community newspaper business, which is where I gained my love of desktop publishing that led to the creation of this magazine. The Carney-owned newspapers are proud members of the Mississippi Press Association and we regularly attend the annual summer convention usually held on the Mississippi Gulf Coast. This year will be no exception.

If you head to the Coast from most any point in Mississippi, chances are you will drive along Highway 49 at some point. The drive often seems more like being on a speedway rather than a highway, but if you slow down just a bit you will find there are many culinary treasures along the way.

I remember riding to the Coast as a child with my family and always wanting to stop at The Pecan House in McHenry. When traveling, my daddy was always in a hurry to get to our final destination and didn't like to stop much. Maybe it was because of the loud and unruly kids in the back seat. Who knows?

And if we passed it by too quickly, you could forget turning around and going back. Now that I have kids of my own, I completely understand why it was full speed ahead. Looking back, it's a wonder he took us anywhere. Luckily, The Pecan House is still there and it's definitely worth stopping for. I can't wait for my next trip down 49 so I can reload my snack stash with their Cajun Spiced Pecans.

We took a foodie foray down 49 and have shared our favorite stops with you beginning on page 44.

When you head south this summer, leave extra early so you can slow down and enjoy the great food along the way. And if you find something delicious that we missed, be sure to let us know.

Ask any Mississippian what their favorite food of summer is and most likely the answer will be fresh tomatoes or Smith County watermelons. On page 15, read about how a family in Pontotoc grows vine ripe tomatoes year 'round in an unconventional way. Then, contributor Lisa Bynum shares several delicious recipes using heirloom tomatoes beginning on page 33.

Nobody in Mississippi can celebrate the 4th of July without watermelons. You will find unusual recipes using watermelon from contributor Janette Tibbetts beginning on page 42. I can't wait to try the Bacon-Wrapped Pickled Watermelon Rind myself.

I'm excited about our new "Kitchen to Kitchen" feature, which spotlights an amazing home cook. If you know someone who dishes out incredible fare for family and friends, email us at info@eatdrinkmississippi.com to nominate them.

Until next time, let's eat! edm

J.J. Carney

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"So whether you eat or drink or whatever you do, do it all for the glory of God." 1 Corinthians 10:31

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eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 7

{ from our readers }

This was the best Christmas gift that I received last year. I have really enjoyed the magazine. I recognized a few from my hometown of Starkville.

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d From the publisher: The Mena Family produced an awesome video celebrating the arrival of the magazine. We'd love for you to see it. Visit www.dadsdisappearingsalsa.com, click on blog, and view their post from February 12, 2014.

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MISSISSIPPI J.J. Carney Publisher/Editor John Carney Executive Editor Anne Morgan Carney Executive Assistant Ann Nichols Amelia Perdomo Advertising Executives Joe Luca Newsstand Sales Consultant

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{contributors} LIZ BARRETT is an Oxford-based journalist who has been working with trade magazines and online publications for close to 10 years. She runs the award-winning website and blog EatingOxford.com, which provides Oxonians with local restaurant news and information, and is the editor-at-large for the nation’s No. 1 pizza trade publication, PMQ Pizza Magazine. In her spare time, she likes to plan getaways to far-off places, conjure up wild business ideas, and is currently writing her first book, due out in late 2014.

MARK BOEHLER is editor of the Daily Corinthian, Crossroads Magazine and Pickwick Profiles weekly newspaper, which covers the Pickwick, Counce and Shiloh, Tenn. areas.

JULIAN BRUNT is a food and culture writer from the Gulf Coast whose roots run more than three hundred years deep in Southern soil. He is deeply concerned with culinary and cultural traditions and thinks no man worth his salt that cannot hold forth in tall tale and willingly endure the heat of the kitchen.

LISA LAFONTAINE BYNUM is a freelance writer from Grenada. Her work has appeared in several publications in Mississippi. She is a graduate of Delta State University where she received a BA in Marketing and her MBA. In her free time, she enjoys food writing and photography. She currently resides in Brandon. Photo by Alisa Chapman Photography JO ALICE DARDEN is a book editor and freelance writer. A former lifestyles editor for the Greenwood Commonwealth, she is a regular contributor to its quarterly publication, Leflore Illustrated. She grew up in Greenwood, graduated from Delta State University with a major in English, and now lives in Cruger with her husband Bob, also a writer, on his family’s farm.

COURTNEY LANGE is a Jackson based writer and photographer, whose work has appeared in local and regional publications.

Courtney is a 2001 graduate of the Western Academy of Photography, located in Victoria, BC, and a 2011 graduate of Mississippi College, where she earned a B.A. in Public Relations. She is currently enrolled in graduate school at Mississippi College. When she is not working, Courtney enjoys traveling, daydreaming, and daydreaming about traveling.

SUSAN MARQUEZ lives and writes in Madison.

She has a degree in Radio-TV-Film from the University of Southern Mississippi and had a long career in advertising and marketing before stumbling into a freelance writing career in 2001. Hundreds of published articles later, Marquez still loves to tell the stories of the interesting people, places, and events throughout the South.

KATHY K. MARTIN is an Ole Miss journalism graduate who currently lives in Collierville, Tennessee with her husband and two children. She works as a freelance writer and chairs her church’s Christian writers group.

GENNIE PHILLIPS, a Forest native, is the publications coordinator at East Central Community College in Decatur and a freelance writer, photographer, and graphic designer.

She is the former editor of The Demopolis Times, a five-day daily newspaper in Demopolis, Ala., and managing editor of The Scott County Times, a weekly newspaper in her hometown. A graduate of the University of Southern Mississippi with a Bachelor’s Degree in Journalism, she has received numerous awards from the Associated Press and the Mississippi and Alabama Press Associations. She is the proud mom to an infant daughter, Mallory Grace. In her free time, she enjoys traveling, reading, and cooking.

LORIE ROACH lives in Buckatunna with her husband. She is a food blogger and owns her own photography business. She is also an avid cooking contest participant and has traveled the country to compete. In 2008, she competed on Food Network’s Ultimate Recipes Showdown: Cakes, where she won first place in the cupcake segment of the show.

JANETTE TIBBETTS is a ninth generation Mississippian. She grew up on a Jones County dairy farm, attended Millsaps, taught school, and was a merchant. She is the founder and curator of "The Sandbank," a Beatrix Potter Collection, at USM. She is a freelance writer and photographer. Janette writes weekly garden and food columns for magazines and newspapers. She was awarded a writer’s grant from the Mississippi Art’s Commission and the National Endowment of the Arts. She lives with her husband, Jon, and writes in their home near Hattiesburg. A published author of short stories, she is presently completing a novel.

KELSEY WELLS is a news writer at Lawrence County Press in Monticello. She is a graduate of Southwest Mississippi Community College where she served as editor of The Pine Burr.

She earned her Bachelor’s degree in Communications at William Carey University and served as a staff writer and life editor of The Cobbler student newspaper until she became managing editor her senior year. She currently resides in the Divide community where she is active in her church and community.

KATIE HUTSON WEST is a freelance writer from Tupelo. She is a graduate of Mississippi State University where she earned a B.S. degree in Marketing, Communications, and Business Psychology. An avid traveler, when home she resides in Starkville.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 9

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Classic Remake

{ what's hot }

The classic grilled cheese sandwich has been an American favorite for generations. It’s hard to resist toasted, buttery bread and melted cheese.

This classic is reimagined with this delicious recipe for Turkey & Brie Grilled Cheese. This recipe is perfect for an al fresco lunch or a light and healthy dinner. Serve with locally-sourced vegetables, hummus, and a glass of freshly squeezed lemonade.

TURKEY & BRIE GRILLED CHEESE 4 slices Roman Meal bread Nonstick cooking spray 2 ounces Brie cheese, thinly sliced 1 small green pear, cored, halved and thinly sliced 4 ounces roasted turkey breast, thinly sliced

Spray medium pan with nonstick spray. Preheat over medium heat.

Layer cheese, pear and turkey between slices of bread, creating 2 sandwiches.

Servings: 2 For more great-tasting recipe ideas, visit www.romanmeal.com.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 11

{ fabulous foodie finds }

Crab salad hands, $28.50 Large crab wood serving bowl, $67.50.

Mud Pie

Beachy Ocean quotes wine glasses, $56.95 set of four Ocean Styles

Yamazaki Tableware Gone Fishin 5-Piece Place Setting, $69.99 Belk Rope drink dispenser, $69.95 Pier 1 12 JUNE/JULY 2014

see page 80 for store information

Keen ] If you can't get to the beach, bring the beach to your table with these nautical finds that we love. |

Fish-Fish Assorted Fish-Shaped Plate by Vietri, $42.00 each.

The Kitchen Table Hattiesburg

Crab/shrimp/oyster handpainted oval platter

by Mississippi Artist Dana Wittmann, $69.95 Dana Wittman Designs

Linen cocktail napkins, $22.00 set of four Lemondaisy Design

Sea Star dinnerware, $13.00 - $42.00 Seaside Inspired

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 13

Fresh Picked Year 'Round

14 JUNE/JULY 2014

The tomato vines at St. Bethany Fresh are shifted once per week to allow for maximum growth.

T

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY

BY LIZ BARRETT

hink it’s impossible to have a fresh-picked Mississippi-grown tomato in the middle of winter?

Think again. For Stephen Hale, owner of St. Bethany Fresh in Pontotoc, the technology to grow fresh produce year 'round is already here, and he’s hoping that supply can keep up with demand as more consumers realize the ready availability of fresh produce any time of year. "The demand will grow as years pass," says Hale. "Organic and hydroponic farmers won’t be the novelty they are now in a few years."

For now, mention the word "hydroponic" and you’re likely to see a few confused eyebrow raises. For the majority of the population who grew eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 15

up growing vegetables in dirt, the concept of growing produce any other way can seem foreign.

Hydroponics is the act of growing plants without the use of soil, instead planting in mineral nutrient solutions and, in the case of St. Bethany Fresh, perlite (a porous volcanic rock). "I’d never say that my tomatoes taste better than my daddy’s did," says Hale, "but what I do know is that the plant doesn’t care how it’s grown. All a tomato wants is food, water, and sunlight, and it doesn’t care how it gets it."

And, according to Hale, when using a hydroponic method to grow produce, traditional growing seasons go out the window. "You can have fresh-picked Mississippi produce on the Christmas dinner table," says Hale.

At St. Bethany Fresh, huge greenhouses hold rows and rows of Geronimo tomato plants as a sophisticated irrigation system waters the plants 16 JUNE/JULY 2014

for two minutes every 20 minutes.

The vines grow up tall cables and can produce 3,000 pounds of tomatoes per week during the summer. The greenhouse even boasts its own bees that work around the clock pollinating the plants, creating a perfect ecosystem.

While Hale has been in agriculture for 30 years, he began St. Bethany Fresh only a couple of years ago after realizing that the organic and local movement was set to grow exponentially. "Moms today are more health conscious than they were 20 years ago and are demanding healthier produce," says Hale. "This attitude is being passed down to children and grandchildren, further helping the movement’s growth."

Hale’s own children are a big part of the business, with daughter Leah Beth Murphy and son Stephen heavily involved in daily operations. In fact, Leah Beth was instrumental in landing St. Bethany Fresh its first deal with Whole Foods; the farm now supplies mini English seedless cucumbers (Kid’s cukes) and Geronimo tomatoes to 28 Whole Foods locations throughout the southeast, according to Hale.

In addition to Whole Foods, St. Bethany Fresh produce is also available at Sprint Mart convenience stores in Tupelo, Corinth and Starkville; Todd’s Big Star; and Westend Grocery.

The farm also actively participates in local farmers markets in Tupelo and Oxford, and Memphis and Germantown, Tennessee. Popular restaurants in Tupelo and Memphis integrate St. Bethany Fresh tomatoes into their dishes, and the farm is open during the week to those who want to drop by and pick up tomatoes and cucumbers on their own schedule.

Thanks to farmers like Hale, we can now look back fondly on the days when we’d have to wait until April to bite into a fresh tomato. As demand increases, St. Bethany Fresh hopes to supply locals year round through a produce membership program. How’s that for making the impossible possible? edm St. Bethany Fresh 899 Kings Hwy., Pontotoc 662.213.2028 www.StBethanyFresh.com

Buy tickets online!

JULYY

25,26 & 27

2014

FRIDAY

Tastings Along the River - 6:30 p.m. - 9:30 p.m.

Natchez Convention Center

SATURDAY

Brunch and Blues - 11:00 a.m. - 1:00 p.m.

Rolling River Roasters Wine & Cheese Tasting - 1:30 p.m. - 3:00 p.m.

The Castle Restaurant Craft Beer Lecture & Tasting - 1:30 p.m. - 3:00 p.m.

Rolling River Roasters Brews, Blues, Bocce & Burgers at Bowie’s - 4:00 p.m. - 7:00 p.m.

An Invitation to the Natchez Table - 7:00 p.m.

The Carriage House at Stanton Hall, Dunleith, Monmouth, Briarvue

SUNDAY

Champagne Jazz Brunch - 11:00 a.m. and 12:30 p.m.

The Carriage House Restaurant at Stanton Hall

Tickets available online! natchezfoodandwinefest.com

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 17

{ deep south dish }

Food. Family. Memories.

Perfect Cake for a Pig Pickin'

BY MARY FOREMAN

I

love this time of year. Well, except for the pesky Deep South heat and humidity, that is! But seriously, spring is a quick event here and we move right into summer in no time flat, but that also means loads of outdoor events.

Concerts, fairs, and festivals from one end of the Coast to the next, picnics and family reunions, regattas and speed boat races, fishing tournaments and deep sea fishing trips, "drivein" movies at Biloxi Town Green, block parties and other outdoor events remind me why I love living on the Mississippi Gulf Coast so much.

Even better than all that, summer also means loads of vine-ripe, hand-picked local vegetables are to be had. While my husband is more of a meat and potatoes kind of fella, and as much as I love the aroma of searing beef, when summer rolls around, I could most often skip the meat and three and happily settle for a vegetable plate.

Grilling season never really retires here, but summer in the South definitely means BBQ gatherings, and pork rules in the South, no matter where you are. I don’t know many Southerners who would turn down a plate filled with pulled pork and fixin’s, whether that came from a pork butt slow cooked in a smoker, or even simmered all day in a slow cooker – the most common ways we cook it. If you’ve never been to a pig pickin’ though, and eaten pork pulled fresh like that, you really don’t know what you’re missing.

A good sized pig for pickin’ can weigh in at upwards of 60 to 120 pounds at butchered weight and an 80 to 100 pounder is a great size and will easily feed from 50 to 75 folks. The pig is usually cooked on an open pit, or in an enclosed grill and

Mary Foreman, a native of Biloxi, is the author of the popular website deepsouthdish.com, where she shares her favorite, homespun, mostly from scratch and, very often, heirloom and heritage, Southern recipes.

18 • JUNE/JULY 2014

sometimes even an old barrel converted to a grill, where the succulent meat, once done, is then pulled, or "picked" off.

Now that's your original pulled pork y'all.

It’s quite a do-it-yourself process though, so you’ll have to order at least a week out and get an early start on cooking, because a whole hog will take generally at least 10 to 12 hours to cook. Luckily, these days you may also choose to cater your pit-roasted pig for delivery to your BBQ, and it’ll likely be marched in and presented like royalty to the oohs and aahs of your guests.

Besides the guest of honor, you’ll find all the usual fare served at a pig pickin' just as at any other Southern barbecue or picnic. Baked beans, macaroni salad, potato salads, coleslaw, hush puppies, watermelon, and all the usual BBQ sides will all be there, and often this cake is front and center as one of the traditional desserts to finish off the feast.

Mandarin Orange Cake is what we typically call this dessert in this part of The Deep South, and in many other parts of the country, but in much of the Southeast, and more particularly the Carolinas, this cake is more commonly known as Pig Pickin' Cake.

The name pig pickin' apparently dates back many years, and comes from the regular appearance of this dessert at good ole Southern barbecues. It’s a cake that I have adored since the 70s and because of its longevity, it’s picked up a few more names along the way. You may have heard it called Pineapple Cake, Pineapple Orange Cake, Summer Cake, Sunshine Cake, or Pea Pickin’ Cake, to name a few.

By virtue of the name, you might expect this to be heavy in orange flavor, but it's not and really was never intended to be.

While it's a cake that has mandarin oranges in the batter, they are there mostly to add tenderness and moisture, and it doesn't have a distinct orange flavor, though you may certainly enhance it.

You’ll need some kind of a cake taker for this cake because it needs to be covered and refrigerated overnight, to allow the flavors to meld. Mine is a vintage, Harvest Gold Tupperware piece I’ve had since I was a young bride back in the 70s, so it always seems fitting to store this cake in it. This cake is moist, tender, and simply melt in your mouth good. I haven’t met a Southerner yet, who doesn’t love it as much as I do. edm

Mandarin Orange "Pig Pickin'" Cake ŠFrom the Kitchen of Deep South Dish

For the Cake: 1 box of butter style yellow cake mix 1/3 cup of vegetable or canola oil 3 large eggs 1 (11 ounce) can of mandarin oranges, undrained For the Frosting: 1 (4-1/2 serving size) package of instant vanilla pudding 1 (20 ounce) can of crushed pineapple, undrained 1 (16 ounce) carton of whipped topping (like Cool Whip) Preheat oven to 350° F. Butter or spray two 9-inch cake pans and flour or line with parchment paper; set aside.

Add the cake mix, oil and eggs to the bowl of a mixer and mix on low until blended. Reserve a couple of the oranges for garnish if desired. Add the remaining oranges with their juice, blend in on low then mix on medium speed for about 2 minutes. Divide evenly into the prepared

cake pans and bake at 350 degrees F for about 20 to 25 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the middle comes back clean. Let cool in the pan for 15 minutes, then turn out onto a cake rack to cool completely.

Blend together the instant pudding and crushed pineapple; set aside for 5 minutes. Gently fold in the whipped topping. Spread in between the layers, frosting the sides and top of the cake. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

Garnish before serving, if desired. Store any leftovers in the fridge.

Cook's Notes: While any butter style yellow cake mix will work, Duncan Hines butter recipe was the traditional cake mix used back in the 70s, and will give you the best result.

Make sure you are using instant pudding and not the cook and serve variety. Add 1/2 teaspoon of orange extract to the batter for more orange flavor.

For Garnish: To garnish, use 2 cans of oranges, but set aside about 20 orange segments from one can to decorate the top of the cake. Use all of the remaining oranges and the juice from only one can in the batter. A light garnish on the top with toasted coconut and maraschino cherries is also very pretty.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 19

{ featured festival }

You Say Tomato, Crystal Springs Says Celebrate

The Crystal Springs Tomato Festival kicks off annually on the last Saturday in June with a kiddie parade that includes bicycles, tricycles, scooters, and wagons decorated in red to honor the tomato.

ABOVE RIGHT - Concrete tomatoes in the varying stages of ripeness adorn the street corners in Crystal Springs, which was once known as the "Tomatopolis of the World."

20 JUNE/JULY 2014

L

STORY BY SUSAN MARQUEZ PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF THE METEOR

et’s talk tomatoes. First off, despite the botanical fact that tomatoes are fruits, the case of Nix v. Hedden, the U.S. Supreme Court ruled that tomatoes are vegetables. (The Tariff Act of March 3, 1883 required a tax to be paid on imported vegetables, but not fruit, therefore a case was filed as an action by John Nix and his brothers against Edward Hedden, collector of the Port of New York, to recover back duties paid under protest.)

History aside, tomatoes are chocked full of nutrients, including being a great source of lycopene. They are known for their outstanding antioxidant content, which is linked to heart health. Tomatoes are known to strengthen the bones and lower cholesterol.

There are literally hundreds of different tomato varieties. But perhaps the best thing about tomatoes is the fact that they are the object of adoration at one of Mississippi’s most delicious food festivals.

The Tomato Festival is held the last Saturday of June each year in the town of Crystal Springs, about 20 minutes southwest of Jackson.

Once known as the "Tomatopolis of the World," the entire town was once involved in tomato planting, harvesting as well as packing and canning. Tomatoes were shipped by rail across the nation.

The activities at harvest time created a festive atmosphere, causing residents to hold "Tomato Days." The succulent red tomatoes were celebrated with parades, pageants, and picnics.

Mayor Sally Garland explained that from the early 1900s up to the 1940s, more produce was shipped from Crystal Springs than anywhere else in the country. "But when World War II broke out, everything stopped." The festival has been resurrected in more modern times. Garland was working for the city’s parks and recreation department in 1996 when the first Tomato Festival was held. "I was there at the beginning and I’ve watched it grow over the years."

Donna Wells, executive director of the Crystal Springs Chamber of Commerce, explained that when the interstate highways were built, many small towns suffered. Crystal Springs was no exception.

"Resurrecting the Tomato Festival was a way for us to pull people off the highway and get them into our downtown area," she explained.

"Once people visit our town, they want to come back!"

You don’t have to be a fan of tomatoes to enjoy the excitement that surrounds the Tomato Festival weekend. Festivities begin on Friday morning with the Tomato Queen contest. Local clubs and organizations sponsor rising high school juniors and seniors. Each candidate must write an essay and present it to the judges. The winner is crowned Friday evening and presides over the festival on Saturday. Also on Friday, the Junior Auxiliary features a BBQ & Blue Jeans dinner and dance.

The actual festival kicks off early Saturday morning with a kiddie parade with bicycles, tricycles, scooters, and wagons decorated in red to honor the tomato. One of the most popular attractions is the farmers market. "It’s the only farmers market held in Crystal Springs all year," said Dr. Rick Snyder, who heads not only the market, but the Mississippi State Experiment Station in Gallman. "We usually have about 15 to 20 vendors, most of which are very local. We will have some vendors who come from about an hour to an hour and a half away." In addition to plenty of red and green tomatoes, seasonal produce will be available, including sweet corn, peppers, summer squash, butter beans, snap beans, cucumbers, okra, blueberries, eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 21

Crystal Springs Tomato Fest June 28th

in Downtown Crystal Springs For more information, call 601.892.2526.

22 • JUNE/JULY 2014

peaches, blackberries, plums, and more. "We will also have food products including local honey, jams and preserves as well as potted plants and cut flowers." A tip to those who may come for the produce: come early, as they sell out fast.

The 5K run is always popular. It’s sponsored by the Mississippi Track Club and draws runners from all over the state. There is also a bike rally, plus 0games, rides, and live music. Centered around the railroad tracks, the event features plenty of arts and crafts and "typical festival food," according to Wells. "Of course, there will be plenty of tomato-related food to sink your teeth into, including fried green tomatoes and BLT sandwiches!" The Cattlemen’s Association comes each year and sells ribeye steak sandwiches. "They make about 1,500 of them, and they’re always sold out by 1 p.m."

The centerpiece of the festival is the giant fiberglass tomato where countless festival-goers have posed for photos. "The big tomato only appears for the festival," said Wells, "but we now have 500-pound concrete tomatoes around town yearround in various degrees of ripeness.

They help us remember and celebrate our heritage."

The festival stretches beyond the downtown area with owners of many of the historic homes hosting "porch parties" serving tomato sandwiches and other delicacies.

At the Chautauqua Park Visitor’s Center, the Tomato Museum and Art Gallery offers a trip back in time.

The museum houses historic photos, original canning labels, and antique tomato harvesting tools and machinery as well as memorabilia from past Tomato Festivals. It’s also where the festival’s art contest takes place.

"The Tomato Festival is a wonderful time for us to promote our city and enjoy what we know and love," said Mayor Garland. "People come back each year to celebrate our heritage. Those who have moved away love to come back to visit family and friends. We even see lots of class reunions during the festival. We are looking forward to seeing everyone the last Saturday in June!" edm eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 23

Sout hern-St yle

The Anatomy of a Crawfish Boil

Corn and potatoes are pretty standard accompaniments, while some people like to mix in sausage, vegetables, and in this case, pineapple wedges.

24 JUNE/JULY 2014

LEFT - Hayes McMillan and Patrick White stir one of several batches of crawfish served. BELOW - When the exoskeleton of the crawfish turn bright red, that lets you know it’s time to remove them from the heat. BOTTOM - Coming through! Once the crawfish are done, it’s a good idea to let them sit for awhile in a large cooler to keep them warm. The longer they sit, the more yummy juices they absorb.

F

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY LISA LAFONTAINE BYNUM

or many Southerners, the arrival of Spring is not signified by warmer temperatures or buds on the trees. It’s a heaping, steaming pile of crawfish spread out across a newspaper, the shells that tell-tale fire engine red hue and still dripping with crab boil.

After the long, dreary months of winter finally come to an end, what better way to celebrate Spring than with a crawfish boil surrounded by 100 or so of your closest friends? It’s a time-honored tradition that Mississippians have enjoyed for generations. The table manners your mother spent so much time coaching you on as a child don’t apply here. Seating is optional, but several rolls of paper towels nearby are required.

Most people belly up to the table and begin pinching tails. If you’re a tried and true boiled crawfish aficionado, you’ll likely suck the head before casting the empty carcass aside and reaching for another.

For almost 15 years, the home of Edward and Cleta Ellington of Jackson has been the setting of such an event. It began in 1998 as a way for the Ellington children, who all attended college out-of-state, to get together with friends during Easter break. Fifteen years later, it would grow into a neighborhood block party attended by nearly 200 people. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 25

Seating is optional at these events. Most people just belly up to the table and dig in.

26 • JUNE/JULY 2014

Mary Margaret and Barry White have hosted the Holy Saturday crawfish boil for friends and neighbors for two years. However, the tradition has been going on for nearly 15 years.

The Whites cooked up about 100 pounds of crawfish to serve their guests.

Two traditions have always remained the same: crawfish are always served and it’s always held on the Saturday before Easter.

"Holy Saturday," Cleta Ellington calls it.

"All of us who raised children in our neighborhood were very close," she goes on to explain. "The kids always considered everybody’s house their own. It became a wonderful opportunity for all the kids to come with their parents and visit."

Ellington describes the boil as multi-generational. Her children, who are now in their 30s, have children of their own. A crowd that was once predominantly college kids and young professionals has morphed to encompass young families. Two years ago, the Ellingtons passed the torch on to the next generation, handing the responsibility over to Barry and Mary Margaret White.

As with most crawfish boils, there is no set agenda. Word of mouth dictates that the food is usually ready by three o’clock and if you want crawfish, you’d better get there early.

Turn onto the White’s street located in Jackson’s Fondren neighborhood, and it’s apparent there is a shindig going on.

Cars begin to line the street on either side and people are seen carrying everything from coolers full of beer to babies and strollers.

Friendly conversation mixes with the sound of a propane flame as a huge stainless steel pot full of water and spices comes to a boil for the next batch. The ratio of water and spices is important. You want them spicy and if they’re not, someone will let you know. There's the clinking of a lid as the

designated "cook" checks the pot and stirs its contents with a large paddle to see if the crawfish are "done." Periodically, two men will hoist a cooler towards the large folding table set up in the middle of the White’s driveway and dump a load of cooked crawfish, corn on the cob, and red potatoes in the middle of the table. Hungry party-goers step up to eat and if you want a spot at the table, be prepared to push a few folks out of the way.

If for some reason crawfish just aren’t your thing, there are chicken wings, grilled boudin sausage, and an entire spread of chips, dips, appetizers, and snacks. One thing is for sure, you won’t go hungry at a crawfish boil.

As the crawfish begins to wind down, there’s talk of oysters being driven in from New Orleans. Red potatoes and corn give way to saltines and hot sauce as a few lucky volunteers are tasked with donning gloves, wielding knives, and shucking the oysters, which are snapped up just as quickly as they can lay one down.

If it rains on crawfish boil day, most people will find a way for the party to go on. "Last year on Easter, the weather was terrible," says Mary Margaret White, as she recalls their first year hosting the Holy Saturday boil. "It rained, but people still came. Everyone just huddled under the carport."

Even though Ellington and her husband aren’t hosting Holy Saturday anymore, she looks back on those years fondly.

"I feel so lucky that we’ve gotten to do it and were able to keep it up. I’ll never forget looking out across my yard one year and seeing mamas sitting on quilts with their babies and bigger kids chasing each other across the yard." edm eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 27

In addition to crawfish, guests of the Holy Saturday boil also enjoy fresh oysters driven in from New Orleans.

A Spoken Dish is a storytelling project dedicated to celebrating and documenting food memories and rituals from people across the South. Visit www.aspokendish.com to view Cleta Ellington's story of the annual crawfish ritual.

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{ mississippi made }

Sarabella’s Southern Sauces are "Sinfully Delicious, Sassy and Divinely Southern" story By Gennie Phillips | photos submitted

Self-proclaimed "Southern Belle," Sara Hays, from Jackson developed Sarabella’s Southern Sauces described as "sinfully delicious, sassy and divinely Southern."

"I have always loved to cook, and learned this fine art from watching my mother and grandmother wave their magic cooking wands," Hays said. "My first gourmet sauce, the delicious recipe for Wicked Sweet Chutney is an adapta-

30 • JUNE/JULY 2014

tion of one of my mother’s recipes. She only made and served this special sauce at Thanksgiving, Christmas and Easter. As I got older, I loved it so much that I wanted it year-round, so I started making it to keep in my refrigerator at all times."

Before Sara developed the Sarabella’s brand in 2009, she would use her chutney to serve at parties and to give as gifts.

"Along with my love for the taste and versatility, friends and family also loved it, and encouraged me to market it," Sara said.

From this beginning, Sarabella’s, named after Sara’s first name and her Boston Terrier’s name, "Bella," has grown into a product with national distribution in specialty stores.

To-date, Sarabella’s produces three chutneys, Wicked Sweet Chutney, Sassy Raspberry Chutney and Magnolia Basil-Mint.

Sarabella’s Wicked Sweet Chutney is a pineapple-based with a touch of mustard and horseradish flavor. Sarabella’s Sassy Raspberry Chutney is all-natural and described as full of premium raspberries with a touch of garlic, pineapple and horseradish. Sarabella’s Magnolia Basil-Mint is made with premium mint with a touch of basil, horseradish and pineapple.

Sarabella’s Southern Sauces can be purchased in local markets, gift shops, online and in various locations throughout the Southeast and Northeastern United States.

The chutneys and sauces have been sold and served at many events including the Natchez Food and Wine Festival; A Taste of Mississippi; Various Junior League Holiday Markets throughout the South; The Charleston Food and Wine Festival in South Carolina; the Miami International Food Show; the 2013 Winter and Summer Fancy Food Shows; and many more. Sarabella's Southern Sauces is a proud member of the National Association of Specialty Foods.

"One of the most wonderful things that has enriched me and this business is meeting so many wonderful people from all over this great country," Sara said. "The response from them towards these three Gourmet products has been overwhelming and delightful. It truly warms my heart!"

Sara said her sauces are excellent gifts, whether alone or paired with other products in a gift basket.

"They taste delicious simply served over cream cheese with crackers," Sara said. "They also compliment any wild game, as well as domestic meats, seafood or cheeses. These sauces pair delectably with our holiday meats, appetizers and desserts during these wonderful seasons. The colors and textures are divine… the tastes, simply tantalizing!"

Sara said the sauces can be shipped anywhere in the U.S. and can be purchased in stores in Jackson, Mississippi locations: Whole Foods Market, Everyday Gourmet, McDade's Market, Olivia's Food Emporium, Fresh Magnolia Market, Early Settler, Mockingbird Marketplace, and Baptist Hospital Gift Shop. The sauces can also be purchased in specialty stores throughout the State of Mississippi. edm Sarabella’s Southern Sauces 64 St. Andrews Place, Jackson 601.954.5036 www.sarabellas.com

Sarabella’s Easy "5-Minute Appetizer" Take a block of Cream Cheese or Brie & drizzle with Sarabella’s Wicked Sweet, Sassy Raspberry or Magnolia Basil-Mint. Add your favorite cracker. Top cheeses with a few butter-toasted pecans, almonds, or pine nuts for a tasty treat.

Sarabella’s Tantalizing Tomato Tarts 1 jar rotel tomatoes, drained 1 cup mayonnaise 1 cup sharp cheddar cheese, finely shredded 1 (3 ounce) package of real bacon bits, optional 3 tablespoons dehydrated chives 2 tablespoons dehydrated basil 3 boxes miniature filo shells (15 to a box) Mix all ingredients, and fill Filo shells.

Bake at 350° for 20 minutes. Let cool. Dollop 1/3 shells with Sarabella’s Wicked Sweet, 1/3 with Sassy Raspberry, and 1/3 with Magnolia Basil-Mint.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 31

the delicious legacy of

Heirloom Tomatoes RECIPES, FOODY STYLING, AND PHOTOGRAPHY

BY LISA LAFONTAINE BYNUM

A

n heirloom tomato is any tomato variety that has been passed down from generation to generation. The flavor of an heirloom tomato is thought to be far superior than that of its hybrid cousins. Slice into one and you’ll soon see why. Heirloom tomatoes come in a variety of colors, patterns, shades and flavors. If you are looking to take full advantage of the summer tomato season, heirloom varieties are the way to go. edm

32 JUNE/JULY 2014

Heirloom Tomato Pie 1/4 cup yellow cornmeal 1 recipe buttermilk biscuit dough (see below) 2-3 ripe heirloom tomatoes, sliced ¼-inch thick 2 ounces (2/3 cup) shredded Swiss cheese 1/3 cup mayonnaise 1/3 cup finely chopped herbs such as basil, parsley, and oregano Preheat oven to 425°. Position rack in the middle of the oven. If using a pizza stone, place stone in the oven to begin preheating.

Sprinkle cornmeal over a clean work surface that can be used later to transfer the crust to the oven, such a pizza peel or parchment paper. Pat the dough into a 5-inch round. Then roll dough out into a 13-inch round using a floured rolling pin.

Arrange the tomato slices over the crust, leaving a 1-1/2 inch border.

Combine the cheese, mayonnaise, herbs, and 1/8 teaspoon pepper in a small bowl. Place dollops of the cheese mixture over the tomatoes.

Fold the border over the tomatoes to form a crust.

Transfer the pie to your preheated pizza stone or a baking sheet. Bake pie for 20-25 minutes until the crust is golden

and the cheese is melted and bubbling.

Remove pie from the oven and allow to cool for 15 minutes before cutting.

Serves: 4

BUTTERMILK BISCUIT DOUGH 2 cups all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon sugar 1/4 teaspoon baking soda 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon salt 1/4 cup chilled unsalted butter or shortening 3/4 to 1 cup cold buttermilk Preheat oven to 450°.

In a large bowl, combine flour, sugar, baking soda, baking powder and salt. Cut butter into mixture until it resembles course crumbs. Add three-quarters cup of buttermilk, and stir until dough comes together and begins to leave the side of the bowl, adding additional milk if necessary.

Turn dough out onto a floured surface. Lightly knead 10 times. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 33

Roasted Chicken Thighs With Fennel and Heirloom Tomatoes

8 skinless chicken thighs 2 tablespoons Olive oil 4 medium heirloom tomatoes, chopped 1 fennel bulb, cut into wedges 4 garlic cloves, diced 1 tablespoon tomato paste 1 cup low sodium chicken stock 1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil (1 ½ teaspoons dried) 2 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano (1 teaspoon dried) Salt and pepper to taste Preheat oven to 350°.

Season chicken thighs with salt and pepper.

Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium high heat. Working in batches if needed, add the chicken skin side down to the pan. Sauté until the skin is 34 JUNE/JULY 2014

browned, about 5-7 minutes. Remove chicken from pan and set aside.

Add the fennel to the pan and sauté until browned on all sides, about five minutes. Add garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 30 seconds to one minute.

Add the chicken broth and the tomato paste to the pan. Stir until tomato paste is completely dissolved.

Add the tomatoes and herbs and cook for 2-3 minutes.

Season sauce with salt and pepper.

Spread tomato sauce into the bottom of a 9 x 13 x 2-inch baking dish. Nestle the chicken thighs in the sauce. Bake for 40-45 minutes or until the meat’s internal temperature reaches 170°. Allow chicken to rest for 10-15 minutes before serving.

Serve with tomato sauce drizzled over the top.

Serves 6-8

Heirloom Tomato Salsa 1/2 cup finely diced red onion 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt 1/4 teaspoon ground cumin 1-1/2 pounds mixed heirloom tomatoes, seeded and coarsely chopped

1 Serrano chili, seeded and minced Combine first 8 ingredients in a large airtight container. If not serving immediately, store leftover in the refrigerator.

Makes about 2 cups salsa.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 35

{ community }

Reducing Food Waste One Potato at a Time

36 • JUNE/JULY 2014

story by Courtney Lange | photos submitted

G Volunteers from Crossgates United Methodist Church in Brandon helped pick more than 300 lbs of peas at a farm in Rankin County.

etting food to our tables eats up 10 percent of the total U.S. energy budget, uses 50 percent of U.S. land, and drains 80 percent of the freshwater consumed in the U.S. Yet, more than 30 percent of food in the United States ends up in landfills.

In the United States alone, 31 percent, or 133 billion pounds, of the 430 billion pounds of the available food supply is discarded. The estimated value of this food loss is more than $161.6 billion retail and the estimated calories associated with the loss are 141 trillion or 1,249 calories per person per day.

Not only could this food, much of which is of consumable quality, be used to feed America’s hungry; even a partially corrected, a correction to the rate of food loss in this country could save American consumers and manufacturers billions of dollars a year.

The environmental impact of food waste is also significant.

The United States spends $1 billion annually, just to dispose of food leftovers - the single largest component of waste by volume in the United States.

This includes uneaten food and preparation scraps from residences, restaurants, and school cafeterias as well as discarded produce and other food items from farms and factories. The decomposition of this food produces methane, a greenhouse gas 21 times more damaging to the environment than carbon dioxide.

One potato at a time, the Society of Saint Andrew is reducing food waste; which, in turn, saves consumers money, reduces the environmental impact, and, most importantly, puts food in the mouths of the people who need it most.

Since 1983, the Society of Saint Andrew has salvaged fresh, nutritious produce left behind on America’s farms and then delivered its harvest to food pantries, soup kitchens, and other agencies that serve the poor and hungry.

"Each day, we throw away 263 million pounds of food in the U.S. and much of what is wasted is nothing more than surplus. It is perfectly edible," says Mississippi Society of Saint Andrew Program Coordinator Jackie Usey.

And while all of that surplus food is piling up in landfills, there are 40 million Americans who struggle daily with hunger - more than half of which are children and elderly adults.

"No matter who they are or where they live, there is no excuse for hunger in this country," Usey says. "The fact is that, right now, there is enough food being produced in this country to feed everyone and feed them well. Additionally, we have the transportation and other resources in place to get it to them."

In Mississippi alone, the Society of Saint Andrew has delivered almost 10 million pounds, or 30 million servings, of salvaged produce to Mississippi’s hungry through its volunteerdriven network of gleaners.

Through Mississippi’s Gleaning Network, the Society of Saint Andrew coordinates volunteers throughout the state, who enter the fields after farmers have finished their own harvest and then pick the remaining good produce that has been left behind, Usey explains. Just last year, the group salvaged 2.3 million pounds of fresh produce in Mississippi.

Most gleaning events take place on weekends and involve volunteers from schools, churches, or civic organizations, Usey says.

Often, volunteers are encouraged to take food back to the agencies that they support in their local areas. Otherwise, the food is distributed to the large food banks, who provide food to one of 350 agencies across the state.

"Our volunteers represent people from various local church denominations and civic groups, who are harvesting local food for local people," Usey says. "That means that the fresh strawberries and peaches in a local soup

"It is hard for people to understand that Mississippi is number one in food insecurity and in obesity."

- Jackie Usey

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 37

ABOVE - Gleaned peas were taken to the Salvation Army in Jackson, where they were used to provide hot meals to Jackson's under served.

kitchen come from local farms."

Last year alone, Usey was given 500,000 pounds of Vardaman sweet potatoes because they were thought to be too big to sell and thousands of pounds of cabbage because it was 1/2 inch smaller than the grocer wanted.

The Society of Saint Andrew also harvests okra, peas, tomatoes, zucchini, watermelon, and anything else that is grown locally.

"It is hard for people to understand that Mississippi is number one in food insecurity and in obesity. That is a hard thing for people to wrap their minds around," Usey explains.

"Often, people can afford food, but they are not able to afford nutritious food."

For example, $20 will buy either a pack of chicken breasts, a few heads of lettuce, fruit, milk and yogurt, or an endless supply of fatty foods like snack cakes, instant potatoes, and sugary cereals, Usey explains.

38 • JUNE/JULY 2014

"It is important, not just that we provide people with food to eat, but that we provide them with nutritious local produce that would otherwise go to waste," she says.

In addition to gleaning, the Society of Saint Andrew accepts donations from restaurant suppliers who often donate surplus items or expired packaged food that is still suitable for consumption.

"The real blessing is that all of the food is provided to us for free by farmers, but there are still costs associated to distribution," Usey explains. "As a non-profit, we receive most of our funding through grants, individual gifts, and church donations, but are still in constant need of financial support."

For more information about the Society of Saint Andrew or to donate, please contact Jackie Usey at GleanMS@EndHunger.org. edm

LEFT - Volunteers gleaned 20,000 pounds of local watermelons that were distributed to food banks across the state.

{ in the podlight }

Garden Brew

F

by kelsey wells

or Christina York and Sara Balch, gardening and cooking were natural topics of conversation. Now, they share their tips, recipes, and more through their podcast, Garden Brew. Both ladies call Mississippi home and feature the state often in their podcast through episodes such as "All Will Be Welty." They can be seen at local farmers markets and discuss and use foods available in the state in their podcasts.

Fresh, homegrown foods are featured in Garden Brew.

Both ladies are avid gardeners and love sharing new ways to incorporate fresh foods into meals the entire family will love.

"We should probably start recording as soon as we walk in the door for each episode. That's when we blurt out recipe ideas or what was just for dinner!" said Balch.

Because of their garden-to-table philosophies, some of the greatest influences for these two cooks have been Felder Rushing, Deb Perelman, Joy Wilson, and Heidi Swanson.

All of these chefs focus on using readily available, in season foods to produce fantastic dishes. Now that they are doing the podcasts, York and Balch hope to influence others in the same way.

The ladies' conversations had always revolved around gardening, physical wellness, cooking, and improving their lifestyles. When the former hosts of Garden Brew decided to pursue other projects, they asked York and Balch if they would like to take over the weekly podcast. Of course, they jumped at the chance.

"Christina and I started hosting Garden Brew as an outlet for our energy," said Balch. "That's what Garden Brew is all about: sharing life with each other and learning from the everyday excitements in our lives."

In their next season, the ladies hope to reach out to local businesses, farmers, chefs, and gardeners and include them in the show. Their hope is to encourage their community and engage others in a fun, healthy lifestyle full of fresh produce and tasty recipes.

The podcast is available on iTunes, Stitcher, or directly from the home site at www.GardenBrewShow.com. You can also connect with York and Balch on Facebook at www. facebook.com/GardenBrewShow or on twitter at www.twitter. com/GardenBrewShow. edm

Christina York

Sara Balch eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 39

Celebrating the 4th with Watermelons O

BY JANETTE TIBBETTS

ur father planted the watermelons in the rich bottom-land below the lake dam. The melons grown in that patch were always enormous, and their sweet taste was outstandingly delicious.

After all these years, I still smile knowingly when I see watermelon recipes calling for mint, lemon juice, bourbon, poppy seed, sugar, or salt. While mint leaves and a few twists of lemon slices make a nice garnish, in some chefs' opinions, half a cup of bourbon and a few poppy seeds sprinkled over a bowl of melon balls seemingly add class to what they may consider a common fruit that has fallen out of fashion.

Also, I realize some of these ingredients are used because the melons had too much chemical fertilizer applied and their natural sweet taste was altered.

However, Father's melons were planted in the rich soil which formed organically along the sides of the branch that had been running through that hollow for eons before he had the dam built. Therefore, sodium nitrate or other chemicals which affects a melon’s taste were never applied to our watermelons. Neither did they suffer from drought because the plants could be easily irrigated from the lake with just a suction hose.

Because the melons grew beside the road and down the hill on which we lived, they were constantly observed by all who walked or drove by our house. It seemed that everyone on the west side of Jones County, and even beyond, knew about our big beautiful melons’ wonderful flavor.

The watermelons were planted as a cash crop and for our oldest brother, Don's, F.H.A. project. Every year except one he received the Most Profitable Crop award in his club.

Too, without realizing it then, the patch became a classroom for my sister and me. Don knew all about melons and taught us what to expect.

Because watermelons are a warm weather crop, they could not be planted until all danger of frost was gone.

If the ground was too cold after the seed sprouted, the tiny plants would fail to raise their heads (referred to as come out of the crook) and survive. Around our supper table, we often discussed the growth of the watermelons from the time the seeds sprouted, unfurled their heads, and pushed through the soil. We anxiously watched for

40 JUNE/JULY 2014

leaves to appear on the young plants, which indicated they would be forming runners (known as vines) and begin blooming. After the bees visited and the yellow petals dropped to the ground, we could see tiny melons (smaller than a huckleberry) forming in the exact spot where the flowers had first appeared.

As the melons grew, much attention was given to their care as we all anticipated their projected date of maturity (referred to as "being in" or "ripe") before the Fourth of July.

The melons that were not sold locally were hauled to the French Market in New Orleans. If ripe before July 4th, when their demand was the greatest, a truckload of watermelons brought a top price.

Our brothers always looked forward to the New Orleans trip. The year the largest crop they ever had came in early, our Uncle Jack volunteered to go along and help his nephews. Our brothers accepted his offer.

When it was Uncle Jack's turn to mind the openstand market after their third day of big sales, he sent the boys down to the Quarter to enjoy a nice meal.

While they were gone, he took the money from the box, purchased a bottle of wine, a woman, and a wonderful evening in the Crescent City.

For his behavior, Uncle Jack received our brothers' wrath and a permanent place in our family lore. Needless to say, that was the year Don did not receive the Most Profitable Crop award. After our older brothers grew up and went away to college, our father continued to grow melons.

The demand for the melons was great enough for Father to allow folks to choose one and pay for it in advance. He lightly carved the first letter of their names on a melon with his pocket knife and allowed the fruit to remain on the vine until it was ripe.

As we rode our bikes down our driveway, my sister and I could see the initials on the melons (which continued to grow as the watermelons grew) and know to whom they belonged. S was Dick Smith's, G was the melon Leg Grayson had chosen, and IKE belonged to our uncle Ike Valentine who didn't have to pay. Father just thought enough of Mother's baby brother to always save him one of the finest melons in the patch.

Our father was proud of the great tasting melons.

During the winter, organic matter from the barnyard and the holding lots was often dumped down the lake dam toward the patch where the rain washed it into the soil and kept the patch fertile. We were also reminded of the wonderful melons when on freezing mornings, Mother served us watermelonrind preserves with her hand-rolled biscuits or on cold winter nights when she served potato salad with pickled watermelon rind, field peas, and hot cornbread.

But most of all, ice cold watermelons were an important part of our traditional Fourth of July celebration, which also included building a large fire on the lake dam and shooting firecrackers with our friends after dark.

Growing melons was a small part of the work on our dairy farm. The cows were milked twice every day. Producing, baling, and storing hay was a constant summer and fall endeavor. Everyone was tired at the end of the day and slept soundly.

However, late one night our mother was awakened by

the barking of Happy, our dog. She woke up our father. He quickly pulled on his overalls and slipped out the back door.

He always turned his old International pickup truck with the front heading down the hill where he could coast to a start in case the battery was not strong enough to turn the ancient motor.

On that night he just quietly opened the truck door, reached into the truck, knocked it out of gear, gave it a little push, slipped inside, put his foot on the clutch, and coasted down the hill. He could see the boys in the watermelon patch before they could hear him and know to look up. He coasted right down to the patch, blocked the truck they were loading, and without ever cranking his truck, turned on the lights.

They were caught red-handed!

It was my boyfriend and the truck they had already loaded two melons into belonged to my sister's boyfriend. Needless to say, our friends were very embarrassed. They came right up to our father apologizing and said, "Mr. Doc, we were goeat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 41

ing to come by in the morning and pay you for these melons."

Father said he told them, "Don't worry about it son, just be careful with my vines." However, the boys insisted on paying for the melons, saying if their father found out they would be severely punished. Father said he would not tell their parents, but if they wanted to make amends he had two large fields of hay on the ground with rain in the forecast and they could come by in the morning when the dew had dried off and help him get it in. The next morning they were in the field shortly after sun up and worked hard until all the hay was in the barn.

A couple of days later on the night of the Fourth of July, our boyfriends came as usual to shoot firecrackers (the term fireworks came later) with us. After the firecrackers and bottle-rockets had been set off, we sat on the dam near the smoldering coals and visited. They told us their buddies had dared them to try to slip in and take a couple of our watermelons, and they were not afraid of being discovered because when they came to see us Happy always wagged his tail and acted like he was glad to see them. My sister and I could not

WATERMELON RIND PRESERVES 6 cups cubed watermelon rind 1/3 cup Kosher salt 1/2 teaspoon alum 1/2 tablespoon powdered ginger 2-1/2 cups sugar 1 cup water Remove green peel from rind. (My mother also removed all of the pink meat from the melon rind. Because 42 • JUNE/JULY 2014

help but laugh.

The guys didn't think it was funny even when Sister told them Mother excused their behavior by saying, "Lifting a few melons from a local patch without permission had always been a rite of passage for some boys." When I finally told them about our Uncle Jack's episode in New Orleans, we all giggled until we were breathless.

Thirsty and hungry, we walked around to our back porch.

Happy was asleep on the bottom step and never woke up.

As we were stepping over him, Jim whispered, "Way to go, Happy!"

We sat on the back porch swings and giggled again until our parents joined us. Mother was carrying a tray with a pitcher of ice water, some glasses, and forks. Father was lugging the ice cold melon he had carefully selected months earlier and carved GIRLS on it. He sliced and passed it. Mother served the water. As we all sat around the back porch work table covered with a new oil-cloth and ate the sweet melon together, we could see lightning flashing in the West and Father said, "Boys, I'm sure glad we got that hay in." edm

hybridizers have developed many melons on the market today with a very narrow white layer of rind, I leave a 1/4 margin of the pink and we enjoy its natural color and added sweetness.) Cut white and pink rind into 1/2 inch cubes.

In glass container, add 1/3 cup salt to 1/2 gallon of tap water and mix well. Add rind and soak overnight at room temperature. Drain and rinse well under running water.

Return rind to glass container, cover with tap water and soak 30 minutes and drain for a hour.

While rind is resting in water and draining, prepare both the alum solution and the ginger water.

Alum solution--Add alum to 1/2 gallon pot of water and bring to a boil.

Ginger mixture--In a separate pot add ginger to 1/2 gallon water and bring to a boil.

Drain watermelon rind, add to boiling alum pot and cook for 6 minutes. Drain and rinse rind. Add to boiling ginger pot and cook on medium for 15 minutes. Mix sugar and 1-1/2 cups water in boiler. Bring to a boil and continue to cook on low.

Gently remove rind from the ginger water and drain well. Add rind to syrup and boil. Stir occasionally and continue to cook 25 to 30 minutes until rind is translucent.

Remove rind from syrup with a slotted spoon and place in sterilized jars.

Continue to cook syrup on low for 12 minutes or until it slightly thickens. Pour the syrup over the rind filling the jars to less than 1/3 inch and seal.

(Note: This recipe is identical to my mother and grandmother's pear preserves recipe; however, the sand pears in our orchard had to be cooked longer than watermelon rinds to become translucent.)

To serve, spread on toast and serve with coffee for breakfast; or fill small hand-rolled biscuits and serve hot.

Makes excellent hors d'oeuvres for Fourth of July watermelon party.

PICKLED WATERMELON RIND My mother served pickled watermelon rind as a relish with peas, baked pork loin and corn bread, chopped in potato salad and minced in deviled eggs.

Yields 5 pints 4 pounds or quarts watermelon rind 2 cups white or red vinegar 2 cups water 5 cups sugar (may be reduced to 4 cups) 1 teaspoon whole cloves 1 teaspoon whole allspice 1 lemon 5 (2-inch long) cinnamon sticks

bacon-wrapped pickled watermelon rind

Brine 1/2 cup kosher salt 1/2 gallon water Note: Never brine (soak produce) in stainless steel. Before today's availability of glassware, my grandmother and mother brined in pottery churns and bowls.

Wash and sterilize 5 standard pint jars fitted with rings and new lids. Remove green peel from melon. Rind may include 1/4 inch of pink melon. Cut rind in 3/4 inch by 1 inch pieces. Measure or weigh melon pieces.

In a glass container, add salt to water, stir until dissolved. Add melon and soak overnight. Drain brine, rinse under cold running water and drain in colander.

Make bouquet by tying cloves, allspice and thinly sliced lemon in cheesecloth. In boiler, combine water, vinegar, sugar and bouquet. Boil 6 minutes. Carefully add melon to boiler and simmer 30 minutes.

Using slotted spoon, remove and discard bouquet and pack rind in pint jars. Add cinnamon stick to each jar. Cover rind with boiling syrup and seal.

I wrap the pieces in bacon and bake them before presenting the dish as hors d'Oeuvres. This recipe is from Julia Reed's latest book, But Mama Always Put Vodka in Her Sangria! Reed's book was published last year by St. Martin's Press.

1 (10 ounce) jar Haddon House Sweet Pickled Watermelon Rind* 10 pieces of bacon, cut in half** Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Drain pickled watermelon rind. Roll bacon around each piece and secure with toothpick. Place on ungreased cookie sheet and bake until bacon is well browned, about 20 minutes. *Note: Because the Haddon House brand is not usually available in my area, I add an extra cup of sugar when pickling the melon rind and it caramelizes deliciously. **Julia Reed recommends thin cut bacon. I use Bryan and line baking sheet with tinfoil. If sheet is flat, turn edges to hold fat.

Watermelon Gin Fizzes 2 quarts chopped watermelon 1 cup gin 8 tablespoons fresh lime juice 12 ounces ginger ale Ice bucket of crushed ice Sliced lime for garnish PurĂŠe watermelon (I just smash melon in bottom of pitcher.) Add gin and lime juice. (Drink may be mixed to this stage hours earlier and chilled.) Add ginger ale immediately before serving and swirl to mix. Add 2 tablespoons crushed ice to punch cups. Fill with Watermelon Gin Fizz.

Garnish with lime slice.

May be mixed individually in high-ball glasses and served from the bar or made in a pitcher and served in punch cups.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 43

Foodie Foray on STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY J.J. AND JOHN CARNEY

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Tom's Fried Pies Richland 44 JUNE/JULY 2014

Fried Pie

ith the arrival of summer, there's no better time to pack up and head to the Gulf Coast. The southern leg of Highway 49 is Mississippi's gateway to the Gulf. A drive along this highway can make you feel like you're in the Indy 500, but if you slow down a bit you will find many culinary attractions worth stopping for. Many fruit stands dot the highway from Richland to Gulfport where, in addition to mostly Mississippi-grown fruits and vegetables, an abundance of boiled peanuts, jellies and jams, and crawfish in season can be found. In between, local vendors set up camp on the roadsides to offer sweet potatoes, vine ripe tomatoes, and sweet, juicy watermelons.

We've found some tasty treats that are not to be missed on your foray to or from the beach this summer. You will probably want to pack an extra cooler so you can stock up for home or vacation meals. From fried pies, flavorful sausages, and pastries to tuna steaks, burgers, and beignets, there's plenty to feast on just outside the fast lane. edm

TOM'S FRIED PIES Tom Cook has worked for years to perfect his recipes for homemade fried pies just like his mama used to make. His Richland pie shop is the only one of its kind in the region and his pies can satisfy a craving for a tasty snack or a full meal.

Don't be in a rush as each one is made to order and served hot. If you are in a hurry, give him a call and fresh, hot pies will be waiting when you arrive.

The flaky and tender crusted pies are filled with savory or sweet fillings. For lunch or dinner, choose from fillings such as broccoli and chicken, Tex-Mex, or pizza style.

For a sweet treat, fillings such as apple, peach, chocolate, and sweet potato are tops. There are many others to choose from, including "no sugar added" choices. Add a scoop of Tom's homemade ice cream for an extra layer of sweetness.

Tom's Fried Pies is 3 miles south of I-20 on the west side of Highway 49, just north of Wright's Fruit Stand.

If you miss it, turn around and go back. You may have to fight the traffic to get there, but you'll be glad you did.

827 U.S. 49, Richland 769.257.7351 www.tomsfriedpies.com

COOPER'S COUNTRY MEAT PACKERS BUTCHER MARKET

JERRY'S FISH HOUSE If you drive along Highway 49 near Florence and see the igloo, you may think you've somehow driven to Alaska. It's not an illusion, it's just Jerry's Fish House.

Stop by this unique place for some of the best fried catfish around. It's served with all the trimmings, including fries, hushpuppies, and cole slaw.

Locals from near and far are drawn to Jerry's, so include plenty of time and be prepared to wait. It's well worth it.

Only in Mississippi can you eat fried catfish in an igloo.

3326 Highway 49 S., Florence 601.845.8860

You may have seen Country Pleasin' Brand Smoked Sausage in your local supermarket. Or you may have tasted it in restaurant dishes across the state. What you may not know is that owner Henry Cooper operates a butcher market in the same building as the meat packing company.

In addition to their award-winning sausage, the market offers quality steaks, stuffed pork chops and chicken breasts, hamburgers, and more.

If you haven't tried the link sausage, pick up a package while you're there. They take the best pork to be found, add a secret combo of herbs and spices, and slow smoke it. If you want to try something different, go for the garlic, green onion, or pepper jack varieties. Of course, you can't go wrong with their original smoked sausage.

Cooper's Country Meat Packers is on the east side of 49 next door to Jerry's Fish House.

3330 Highway 49 S., Florence 601.845.0869 www.countrypleasin.com eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 45

49 BISTRO Don't settle for fast food when passing through Magee. 49 Bistro serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, so unless you're traveling during sleeping hours, chances are they'll be open.

Using only the freshest, top quality ingredients, owner Vic Ward has created a following with his specialty salads, hot pressed panini, and made-to-order pizzas. To ensure each dish has the best flavor possible, Ward makes his own bread and sauces, and creates his own spice blends.

For breakfast, grab a cup of coffee from the espresso bar to go with one of his tasty scones. Ward's signature breakfast item is his Grit Sticks, which are baked, homemade cheese grits that can The Elvis Milkshake be eaten with your fingers. Now you can eat your grits conveniently on the road.

For a light lunch, try one of his delicious specialty salads like LEFT - Greek Style Jamaican Jerk or Citrus Grill Salad.

Artisan Pizza The Island Wrap is a favorite among patrons. Jerked chicken BELOW - Island is wrapped in a tortilla with provolone cheese, lemon basil sauce, Chicken Wrap romaine lettuce, and pineapple salsa.

For a sweet ending to a tasty meal, enjoy homemade cakes, hand-dipped ice cream, sundaes, or milkshakes. One of the tastiest shakes on the menu is The Elvis, a delectable blend of peanut butter and banana.

We've only given you a taste of 49 Bistro, so stop by soon for a bigger bite. Visit their website for the full menu or check out their Facebook page for daily specials.

49 Bistro is on the west side of the highway just north of Walmart.

1667 Simpson Highway 49, Magee 601.849.9515 www.49bistro.com Steak

Gyro

GLORY BOUND GYRO CO. If you're tempted to veer off Highway 49 onto I-59 to bypass Hattiesburg, don't do it or you will miss Glory Bound Gyro Co. This funky restaurant offers Greek cuisine with a Southern twist.

While most Greek restaurants offer only one flavor of hummus, Glory Bound offers 10. Yes, you read that right, 10 glorious flavors including roasted red pepper, spinach pesto, and garlic basil.

There is an even larger number of gyro options. Choose from breakfast, steak, shrimp, or hamburger varieties. There are just too many choices to list here, so go taste for yourself. Their hand-cut fries are equally delicious.

Glory Bound Gyro Co. is located on the east side of 49 across from USM. 6174 Highway 49, Hattiesburg 601.582.8252 www.gloryboundgyroco.com 46 JUNE/JULY 2014

k erjac , pepp wrapped , a t e F d n y ha jell olls eese pper ese R Che ream ch with pe d c and nd serve a d frie FOOD PHOTOS BY GLORY BOUND GYRO CO.

JODY'S BAKERY When your sweet tooth starts aching, Jody's Bakery is the cure. From cookies, cupcakes, and pies to brownies, baklava, and tarts, any sugar addict will find something that satisfies.

Ever gone into a bakery and smelled birthday cake that left you craving for a bite? At Jody's, a square of their delicious white cake will appease. The icing to cake ratio is spot on. If you suddenly need a birthday cake for someone special, ready-made cakes are waiting to be personalized. Themed cakes are available by special order.

Jody's bakery cases are filled to the brim with a huge variety of fresh-baked treats in individual portions, as well as whole cakes and pies. Loaves of homemade bread are a great choice, too.

Need to feed a crowd? Order one of their breakfast, vegetable, fruit, or cookie trays. EntrĂŠes like Crawfish Linguine, Shrimp Creole, Rotel Chicken, and Chicken Pot Pie are available by special order as well. Frozen casseroles may be picked up at any time for a quick meal.

Jody's Bakery is located on the east side of Highway 49 across from Forrest General Hospital.

60584 Highway 49, Hattiesburg 601.545.7593 www.jodysbakery.com

Key Lime Pie

DONANELLE'S BAR & GRILL

Ribeye Steak

STEAK PHOTO BY ANDREW K. VIA YELP

Looks can be deceiving. Such is true at Donanelle's Bar & Grill. You may take one look at the restaurant and say, "I'm not eating there!" If you pass it up, you're missing out on the best steak in the area.

The menu is limited, but everything on it is good. In addition to a few choices of steak, other options are grilled yellow fin tuna, pork ribs, catfish sandwich, and seafood in season.

Bring an extra dollar with you to add to the unique dĂŠcor. The walls are covered with signed bills from past patrons.

Donanelle's is located on the west side of Highway 49 across from the Camp Shelby North gate. If you're traveling north, it's impossible to see due to trees in the median, so pay careful attention.

4321 Highway 49, Hattiesburg 601.545.3860 www.donanelles.com eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 47

THE PECAN HOUSE For more than 30 years, The Pecan House has been providing delicious pecans and pecan delicacies to travelers and locals alike.

Roasted pecans are offered in flavors such as Cajun Spiced, Keylime, or Honey Glazed. For hand-dipped pecans, choose from milk, dark, or white chocolate. Also available is a variety of homemade candy and cakes, plus whole pecan pies. A customer favorite is their pecan chocolate chip cookie drizzled with white and milk chocolate.

A large array of their personal brand of sauces, salad dressings, jams and jellies, and pickled items offers a unique accompaniment to your favorite dish. Choices include Pickled Quail Eggs, Peach Pecan Salad Dressing, Tomato Jam, and Sweet Potato Butter.

The gift shop has a nice selection of kitchen accessories, candles, and pottery. We loved the food-scented candles in scents such as Sweet Tea, Cornbread, and Vine Ripe Tomato.

The Pecan House is located on the west side of Highway 49 at McHenry.

Pecan Pie 441 Highway 49, McHenry 601.928.5194 www.thepecanhouse.com REBEL DIP DRIVE-IN

Bacon Cheeseburger with fries

Banana Split 48 JUNE/JULY 2014

Since 1962, Rebel Dip Drive-In has been serving some of the best burgers and shakes on the Gulf Coast.

If there were a list of Mississippi must tries, it would rank pretty high.

Along with delicious burgers, the Rebel Dip serves a variety of sandwiches and po boys. Old-fashioned ice cream treats include shakes, malts, sundaes, freezes, and floats. We loved their Banana Split.

It's a great stop for families and individuals on the go. Take your order to go or enjoy it under the covered porch.

Skip the fast food drive through for Rebel Dip's freshly made fare... a Gulfport tradition.

Rebel Dip Drive-In is located on the west side of Highway 49 on the north side of Gulfport.

12387 Highway 49, Gulfport 228.832.4165

TRIPLETT-DAY DRUGS Fill your prescriptions and your belly at Triplett-Day Drugs. A Gulf Coast favorite for more than 60 years, the drug store houses one of the few remaining old-fashioned soda fountains in the state.

Pharmacist Jim Day bought into the business in 1955 and has kept the pharmacy, gift shop, and soda fountain in operation through hurricanes and hard times.

Thanks to Triplett-Day Drugs, you dont' have to make a trip to New Orleans to enjoy beignets. These hot, sugary pastries are larger than New Orleans-style beignets, but are equally delicious.

The soda fountain offers cooked-to-order dishes for breakfast and lunch, with a daily blue plate option. Traditional breakfast plates, burgers, fries, and seafood are favorites among locals, who enjoy dining and discussing the local news with friends and neighbors on a regular basis.

Triplett-Day Drugs is located in downtown Gulfport on the east side of the highway.

Beig

nets

2429 14th St., Gulfport 228.863.2363

WRIGHT'S FRUIT STAND offers a variety of fresh fruits and vegetables, hanging baskets, and plants.

839 Highway 49 S., Richland 601.939.0043

COUNTRY TYME FRUIT STAND has two locations along Highway 49 in Mendenhalll and in Hattiesburg. In addition to fresh fruits and vegetables, choose from a large selection of plants, canned homemade items, and Amish products.

3133 Simpson Highway 49, Mendenhall 601.847.6799 7760 Highway 49, Hattiesburg 601.268.0854 •••

••• In operation for more than 30 years, DONNA'S #6 PRODUCE offers fresh fruits and vegetables, pickles, relishes, preserves, syrup, honey, fruit butters, and salad dressings. The gift shop offers a variety of indoor and outdoor items, fudge, candy, cakes, ice cream and more.

3875 Highway 49 S., Florence 601.845.7037 www.donnasproduce.com

CREAM OF THE CROP grows most of their own produce. Other food items include jams, jellies, sauces, pickles, and Amish products. A customer favorite is

Our Favorite

Fruit Stands Beason Family Farm milk products.

160 Willies Exit Ramp, Magee 601.849.0568 ••• B&D'S PRODUCE is a quaint indoor market offering locally-grown fruits and vegetables.

Their selection of Amish products, pickled foods, and jellies and jams is the largest around.

Summer favorites include Chilton County peaches and boiled peanuts.

1923 Azalea Dr. S., Wiggins 662.404.4703 eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 49

{ kitchen to kitchen }

From Chief to Chef: Home Cook Dave Bowman Never Fails To Impress Family and Friends

W

story and photography By Lisa LaFontaine Bynum

hen Alana Bowman nominated her father to be eat.drink.MISSISSIPPI’s first home cook feature, she said, "He should have his own restaurant. Seriously, this man can cook!"

However, Dave Bowman of Pelahatchie says that growing up, the occasional pan of cornbread was the extent of his cooking experience. The father of two daughters, he started cooking after he got married out of necessity. Bowman, who 50 • JUNE/JULY 2014

enjoyed a 30 year career with the Air National Guard, and his wife at the time both worked long hours. Often he arrived home first and found himself with two hungry girls on his hands.

"I started out just throwing something together for the kids to eat for dinner," he says. "But soon I discovered that it was relaxing. Cooking gave me an outlet to relax and forget about the stress at work."

One of Bowman’s signature dishes is his grilled pork loin stuffed with sausage.

He knew he had arrived as a cook when his wife wasn’t feeling well and asked him to make a pecan pie for her to take to work.

"I had never made a pie. My wife tells me, ‘You just follow the recipe.’ So I did and it turned out great! That’s when I realized I can make something other than French fries and cornbread. I can do this."

Today, Bowman has quite a collection of recipes he keeps tucked away in a large three ring binder titled, "The Chief ’s Recipes." The title refers to Bowman’s title of Chief Master Sergeant, the rank he held before retiring from the guard 11 years ago. Now with five grandchildren ranging in age from twenty to nine years old, he cooks out of enjoyment for his family and friends instead of out of necessity. Bowman spends much of his time honing his cooking skills and trying new techniques, like making his own jams and jellies. He is also an avid gardener, growing numerous herbs and vegetables on his land in Pelahatchie, located just a few miles from

where he grew up. What he doesn’t eat right away, he cans so he can continue to enjoy his harvest when fresh fruits and vegetables are no longer in season.

Bowman enjoys preparing Cajun and Creole dishes such as jambalaya and gumbo in addition to traditional home cooking like meatloaf and fresh baked bread. He also cooks a lot of Italian food and says, "If my kitchen doesn’t smell like garlic and oregano, I’ve failed." Lately, he has been experimenting with Mexican flavors, using fresh onions, tomatoes, and cilantro from his garden to prepare salsas and enchiladas.

Other family favorites include shrimp and pasta, sausage stuffed pork loin, cheesecake, and the recipe that started it all - coconut pecan pie. Bowman even makes his own seasoning blend, a mixture of herbs and spices he calls Dave’s Stuff.

On the other hand, Bowman says if you ask his grandchildren - who all love their Papaw’s cooking - what his best dish is, they’ll tell you he makes the best pancakes. edm eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 51

Bowman didn’t think he was a true cook until he learned to make his own pie crust. From the looks of this beautiful apple pie, we would say he nailed it.

52 • JUNE/JULY 2014

from

Dave's Kitchen DAVE’S STUFF 3 tablespoons paprika 2 teaspoons thyme 2 tablespoons onion powder 2 teaspoons basil 2 tablespoons garlic powder 2 teaspoons cayenne pepper 2 tablespoons oregano 2 teaspoons salt

coming to terms

IN

E

TH

Kitchen

WITH JULIAN BRUNT

Mix all ingredients thoroughly and store in an airtight container. Use liberally on pork or other meats before barbecuing or roasting.

CANNED STRING BEANS "My children’s great-grandmother, Florence Allen, taught this canning process to me. She raised a family during the great depression and never wasted any food. I’ll always think of "Mimmie" every time I can string beans!"

1 gallon string beans 1/2 cup sugar 1/2 cup white vinegar 3 tablespoons plain salt Water Prepare beans using a large dishpan or similar pan.

Add sugar, vinegar, and salt. Cover with water. Bring to boil and cook until all beans change color.

Tap down jar lids and place in boiling water. Keep lids hot.

Wash jars and scald with boiling water. Place upside down on a clean white towel until ready to use.

Pack beans (while boiling) in jars and fill with liquid.

Screw on lids tight as possible and set aside. They will pop when sealed. Store in the pantry until ready to use. They will keep for 2 to 3 years.

OPPOSITE LEFT - Bowman grows much of his own produce, including okra that he likes to skewer, season with olive oil and his own herb blend, and throw on the grill.

OPPOSITE RIGHT - These yummy roasted potatoes and homemade cole slaw are seasoned with herbs from Bowman’s own garden.

A escalope is topped with a red sauce and served on a bed of pasta.

Escalope An escalope is generally defined as a thin cut of white meat. Its origins are most certainly French and date back to the 17th century.The basic idea is to tenderize a thin slice of meat by the use of a kitchen mallet to make it even thinner. It cooks very quickly and remains very tender.

The English term is scallop, the Italians call it scaloppine and it has been adopted in Germany as the schnitzel.The Germans borrowed the idea from the Italians in the mid-1800s, and it has become a mainstay of German cuisine since.

In most cases an escalope is made from veal, but turkey, fish and lobster can also be used. In some circumstances the Germans make a schnitzel from a thin piece of pork.

The classic recipe calls for a thin slice of veal to be coated in breadcrumbs and sautéed over high heat for a very short period of time.This is referred to as la milanaise. It is most often cooked in clarified butter or lard. Various sauces and other toppings are common.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 53

{ from mississippi to beyond }

Building Burgers in Alabama story By Kathy K. Martin | photos submitted

54 • JUNE/JULY 2014

W

hile William Stitt now owns and operates the Old 27 Grill in Fairhope, Alabama, he says that if he had all the money in the world he would open a restaurant in Yazoo City and call it Old 49 Grill.

"Yazoo City is where the Delta meets the hills and it’s also my hometown for my entire childhood," says William. He calls himself blessed that both sets of his grandparents loved to cook and his mother was a great cook.

His grandfather, John Newton Stitt, taught him the finer points of making a chocolate pie and the delicious simplicity of a breakfast of eggs, bacon, grits and toast. His grandmother, Rebecca Helen Jackmore, may have learned to cook later in life after she married, but William says that many of his favorite recipes come from her repertoire of dishes. "I still enjoy reading her notes that include things like pinch, dash and smidgen, which just make sense to me."

When he was a boy, William used to tag along with his dad, J.W "Billy" Stitt, and brother, John, on his dad’s business trips across the country selling bags and boxes. "We might wake up in St. Louis, Chicago or Manhattan and call on clients along the way, taking them to breakfast, lunch or dinner to help them solve their packaging problems." Instead of following in his father’s business, William gravitated to the cooking and hospitality industry while his brother became a physician. He says, "He delivers babies and I deliver burgers."

William blends many of his favorite hang-outs from his past to create Old 27 Grill. He says that he combines the ambiance and offerings of The Gin, The Hoka and The Downtown Grill from Oxford; The Crystal Grill from Greenwood; The Hastee Tastee, Miss Annie’s Basement and The Steak House from Yazoo City; The Iron Horse Grill, Keifer’s and The Dock from Jackson; Paulette’s and The Rendezvous from Memphis, as well as the many hunting camps he visited when he was younger. A casual, relaxed atmosphere is his obvious intent as he serves up signature hamburgers such as the Holy Cow burger and other sandwiches, soups and specialty dishes.

The Holy Cow burger comes smothered in peppercorncream sauce, topped with caramelized onions and grilled tomato held together with a sliver of Swiss cheese on a freshly-baked and toasted bun and served with hand-cut fries. Another favorite sandwich is the Comeback Chicken or Comeback Shrimp sandwich, which gets its name from the popular and spicy Comeback Sauce. The Ecor Rouge Catch is a white fish filet lightly-fried, topped with jumbo shrimp and drizzled with a cayenne pepper cream sauce, which is served with a side of sautéed whole mushrooms.

William graduated from Ole Miss as one of the first graduates of the hospitality program and went on to serve as assistant manager of Downtown Grill from 1988 to 1992 before working for Ruby Tuesday as national director of catering for over 20 years. When he realized that his job might require

him to relocate, he didn’t want to move away from his family in Alabama. "I always planned to have my own place and one night my son and I were driving home from the beach and saw a man holding a sign, ‘Restaurant equipment for sale,’ so we stopped and bought everything."

After many failed attempts to find a location in downtown Fairhope, William finally found the perfect location on the Old 27 highway. Although the road is now called Highway 181, most locals appreciate the old name that they know and love, he says. The restaurant serves about 2,000 customers a week and plays off the number 27 with an offering of 27 cocktails and 27 sandwich toppings.

William enjoys watching young people learn the restaurant business alongside him. "It is so much fun when you witness someone smile from receiving a tip well-earned or when they learn how to write a schedule that provides great service." He also relishes watching his staff manage a kitchen shift that delivers delicious food in a timely manner, while having time to walk around and talk to guests. "The challenges," he says, "are when you fail at any of the items I just mentioned and toss and turn all night coming up with plans to fix these woes."

William still misses his home state and Yazoo City, especially his time at Manchester Academy where he says "every field goal and extra point required knowing how to work your way through a cotton row or bean field just to find the ball." And hopefully one day he can return and open that restaurant called Old 49 Grill.. edm Old 27 Grill 19992 Highway 181, Fairhope, Ala. 251.281.2663 www.old27grill.com eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 55

Ecor Rouge Catch An Old 27 Grill Signature dish Supplies needed: Sauté skillet for sauce, tongs, two small mixing bowls, 1 ounce ladle, 1/2 cup measuring cup, 1 teaspoon, deep frying pot with fresh vegetable oil. Works best with gas appliances.

1 (7 to 9 ounce) mild white fish filet (Tilapia, Pangisius, or Catfish) 2 large peeled shrimp (16 -20 count works best) 1 ounce melted butter 1/2 ounce dry vermouth 1/2 cup heavy whipping cream 1 dash cayenne pepper 2 dashes paprika 2 tablespoons chopped green onions 1 lemon wheel Breading and Egg Wash: 1 egg 2 cups milk 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper 2 teaspoons paprika

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Sift flour and seasoning together into a dry bowl.

Beat egg with a fork into milk to prepare the egg wash in another bowl.

Dredge fish in dry batter, then egg wash, then once again in the dry batter.

Place fish directly into fryer at 350 degrees and make sure fish does not stick to the basket. Fish will fry for 4 to 6 minutes and will be ready once floating.

Melt butter until clarified and place 1 ounce of clear butter into a warm sauté pan.

Add two jumbo peeled shrimp and a splash of vermouth.

Turn shrimp once and add measured heavy cream.

Add cayenne and paprika to cream and allow sauce to reduce 50%.

Sprinkle green onions into sauce.

Try to time the frying of the fish so that it is done at the same time your sauce is completed.

Place the fish filet in the center of your dish, lay the two shrimp on the top of the fish, and drizzle the sauce over the top of the fish filet to allow for good plate coverage.

Garnish the fish with a fresh lemon wheel and serve immediately.

The B.T.C. Old Fashioned Grocery Cookbook Author: Alexe Van Beuren Recipes by Dixie Grimes

{ from the bookshelf }

Publisher: Clarkson Potter/Publishers

A

BY KELSEY WELLS

first glimpse through the photographs in The B.T.C. Old-Fashioned Grocery Cookbook fills the reader with visions of a Mayberry-like town. To view Water Valley through these pages is almost like taking a journey back through time. The town, located near Oxford, has begun a revitalization, part of which is due to the store and café which goes by the same name as its new cookbook.

Alexe Van Beuren, owner of the B.T.C., opened the store in 2010, but the grocery barely survived its first year in business. Though Van Beuren knew that a café was what the town needed, she struggled to find a cook who was both competent and reliable. One day, Dixie Grimes, an Oxford native who had worked as a professional chef, walked into the café to a harried Van Beuren and asked for a job. What happened next, says Van Beuren, was nothing less than an act of the Lord. Since 2011, Dixie has become a permanent fixture at the store and settled into a new life at the B.T.C. What was once a diminishing Mississippi town is now bustling once again, except during Ole Miss game hours. Though many credit the grocery with the new life, Van Beuren knows that without the people of this town, she would never have survived as an entrepreneur. She appreciates the friendly people of Water Valley and is grateful for their role in her success.

The B.T.C. Old-Fashioned Grocery Cookbook features 120 recipes from the kitchen of the grocery that make the mouth water. Beautifully illustrated with stunning food photography, the book begins with breakfast items from skillet biscuits and sausage gravy to quiches and Italian Sausage and Mushroom Breakfast Casserole. Soups for Every Season vary from White Bean Chicken Chili for the winter to Down-Home Tomato Soup for the summer.

Salads include from the lighter B.T.C. Ceasar Salad to hearty Mustard Dill Potato Salad.

Spreads and Sandwich fixings feature some of the specialty recipes made and sold at the grocery for pimento cheeses and even a Ham and Horseradish Spread.

The Southern staple, casseroles, features favorites like Chicken Spaghetti and lesser known recipes such as Oyster Casserole. Main dishes from brisket to red beans and rice and sides including Creamed Cabbage with Sherry and Yellow Squash Au Gratin are also included.

The Southern Sweet Thangs chapter is pages of calorie-laden deliciousness featuring Mississippi favorites such as Tea Cakes and Steel Magnolia Cake.

The recipes that help breathe life in tiny Water Valley every day are now available in The B.T.C. Old-Fashioned Grocery Cookbook. The book is available in both hardback and ebook editions. edm

PHOTO BY ED ANDERSON

RED RIND PIMENTO CHEESE 1 pound red rind hoop cheese, shredded (4 cups) 1/2 cup chopped pimentos 1/2 cup Hellmann's mayonnaise 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce Dash of Tabasco sauce 1 teaspoon granulated onion 1 teaspoon granulated garlic 1/8 teaspoon dry mustard 1/8 teaspoon sweet paprika 1/8 teaspoon white pepper Pinch of sugar Salt In a medium bowl, combine the cheese, pimientos, mayonnaise, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco, granulated onion, granulated garlic, mustard, paprika, white pepper, and sugar. Using your hands, mix thoroughly until creamy. Season with salt to taste. Refrigerate for 4 hours before serving.

The pimento cheese will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for 7 days.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 57

{ raise your glass }

Cold Cuppa Joe If the heat of summer slows down your coffee drinking, Lorie Roach's iced coffee will surely perk you up.

VANILLA BEAN ICED COFFEE 1/3 cup instant espresso granules 1/3 cup sugar 1 cup boiling water 1 vanilla bean, split and seeds removed 1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk 2 cups cold water 4 cups milk 1-2 teaspoons vanilla extract (for extra vanilla-y punch)

Place the espresso granules and sugar in a bowl and stir in the boiling water until dissolved. Stir in the vanilla bean seeds.

Whisk in the sweetened condensed milk and cold water until combined. Pour the milk into a pitcher. Stir in the espresso mixture and the vanilla extract. Chill in fridge for about an hour. Serve over ice.

For more of Lorie's delicious recipes, visit loriesmississippikitchen.com.

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Veronica' s Bakery Greenwood

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Piggin' Out at Pickwick The Hills

The Delta -

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ProffColumbus itt's Porch -

Anjou -

The Pines

Ridgeland

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Capital/River

Our wonderful state is divided into five travel regions - The Hills, The Delta, The Pines, Capital/River, and Coastal. It is our goal to give equal coverage to all regions of the state in every issue. The following sections are color coded by region for your convenience. We hope you will take the time and travel to all regions to take advantage of the diverse culinary styles present throughout our state.

We do suggest that you call to verify operating hours before visiting any of these wonderful establishments.

Scooters Poplarville

Coastal

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 59

The Hills

Piggin' Out at Pickwick Stateline, Pickwick, Counce, Shiloh areas are a culinary destination. Lake, river areas feature over 20 eateries.

story and photography By Mark Boehler

F

rom pork barbecue to Prime Rib, from fried catfish to unique burgers, from country veggies to all-out buffets, from Italian to Mexican food, and from homemade biscuits to seafood feasts, the area near Pickwick Landing Dam, Tenn. remains a culinary destination with something for everyone.

There are over 20 restaurants, ranging from small cafés to huge dining areas. Many offer beautiful views of the Tennessee River, Pickwick Lake, and the Yellow Creek embayment, while others offer quaint settings and atmosphere either indoors or on patios and decks.

From a place recently opening to an establishment serving up traditions for 75 years, there is something for every palate.

Most all are not franchises and are locally owned and operated.

60 • JUNE/JULY 2014

Here is a culinary tour of the area, beginning where Mississippi Highway 25 turns into Tennessee Highway 57 at the state-line in the northeast corner of Mississippi; proceeding north on Highway 57; traveling north briefly for two stops near and below the dam; then heading west of Highway 57 thru Counce; following Highway 142 north to Highway 22 and ending near Shiloh National Military Park.

These stops are not inclusive of all of what the area has to offer, so feel free to explore and experience everything Pickwick Lake and the Tennessee River has to offer.

Fillin Station Grille Mississippi visitors can fill ‘er up without ever leaving the state. Just below the Tennessee state line on the water at Aqua Yacht Marina is Pickwick’s newest restaurant which opened

The Hills

Cowboy fries, waffle fries covered in pulled pork and barbecue sauce and topped with jalapenos and sour cream, are a popular appetizer at the Fillin Station Grille.

in February.

Steve Beene has two successful Fillin Station Grilles in Southaven. The former beer distributor decided to add a third location of the restaurant known for people getting their tanks full of good Southern-American fare with some special twists, including Mexican and Cajun.

Located in the former Cafe St. Clair building, Beene has renovated the inside, added a bar inside and out, and built a huge covered patio. The restaurant has adjacent boatslips available so folks can arrive via their vessels.

There are 15 appetizers on the menu, with Cowboy Fries being the most popular - pulled pork served over waffle fries, melted cheddar and Monterey Jack cheese, sour cream, jalapeños, then drizzled with barbecue sauce.

The menu includes a dozen soups and sandwiches, 11 Mexican dishes, six entrées, six desserts, a kids menu, and 18 breakfast items available Saturday and Sunday from 7:30 a.m.

to 2 p.m.

The Jiffy Burger remains popular - a unique 8-ounce Angus burger topped with bacon crumbles and peanut butter. "The Jiffy Burger is pretty unique," noted manager Jeff Walker. "People really like it."

Walker and staff will be cooking up some good homecooked fuel all summer, including Prime Rib on Friday nights, fresh cut steaks on Saturday evenings, and gourmet fish dinners both Friday and Saturday evenings.

So far, many Pickwick visitors are checking under the hood at the grille, so hopes are high it will deliver some high food mileage at the new lakeside location.

Grand Harbor Cantina A small eatery is the answer to a crazy Mississippi trivia question almost nobody can answer. Name a place to eat in Mississippi where one must travel through another state by eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 61

The Hills Sliders are a favorite on the menu at Fillin Station Grille.

seven miles of roadway just to get there.

Answer: the Ship Store’s Cantina at Grand Harbor Marina.

When Pickwick Landing Dam was completed in 1938, the reservoir expanded the Tennessee River and Yellow Creek, creating a small piece of property on the north bank of Yellow Creek in the Magnolia State.

Grand Harbor includes a marina and condominiums and all Pickwick visitors can enjoy the ship store and cantina with easy access via boat.

The cantina offers a full range of food, including hot dogs, burgers, hot and cold sandwiches, salads, pizza and drinks.

There is also packaged beer and light wine for sale.

The best part? The view. There are plenty of picnic tables with glider seats, offering a great view of the lake and water action while having lunch or a snack.

Visitors by vehicle need to follow the signs to Grand Harbor off Highway 57.

Freddie T’s Restaurant and Beach Club It’s the number one stop on the weekend nightly social scene, but Columbus area native Chef Pat Morris is turning out some of the best self-inspired, homemade, mouthwatering cuisine at Pickwick. His signature dish - New Orleans/ Cajun Style catfish - is made from catfish raised in Macon.

The former head baker at Mississippi State University, Chef Pat’s must try creations include his homemade bread, Banging Shrimp, Shrimp and Grits, Asian Crusted Tuna, Grilled Porterhouse, Key West Scampi, or Freddy T’s Burger, a half-pound flame grilled delight of beef, just to name just a 62 • JUNE/JULY 2014

few of 22 dishes available with plenty of blackened or grilled options.

"We like to do our own thing," said Chef Pat, whose culinary stops include the New Orleans French Quarter and the Marriott Hotel in Wasilla, Alaska. "We like to try new things and have fun."

A dessert case reveals Chef Pat’s sweet creativity, including the Double Brownie Delight - two large brownies with ice cream in the middle, covered with chocolate syrup and topped with whipped cream.

CafÉ St.Clair The Memphis tradition started by the late Jack St. Clair continues at Pickwick, thanks to longtime St. Clair employee Mark Rainbolt and his wife, Madelyn. The couple recently moved their restaurant from Aqua Yacht Marina into the former Jon’s Pier on Highway 57. They have remodeled and offer a dinner menu and many dressing recipes and seafood entrées Jack made famous at the original Café St. Clair from 1964-78.

Mark is best known for his Prime Rib, cooked with a special seasoning he makes himself.

Viv’s Sports Bar and Grill Viv Price has owned and operated restaurants for 40 years, which is probably why her place is known for juicy cheeseburgers and pork barbecue. It’s a local hangout and remains smoke friendly, so visitors wanting a smoke-free environment may want to order Viv’s famous hand-patted, juicy

cheeseburger hot off the grill to go.

"It’s what we are known for," said Viv, who has owned the restaurant for 17 years. "Folks come from Memphis just to get the cheeseburger."

Cut Thru CafÉ Travelers to Pickwick may notice a yellow sign on Highway 57 at Red Sulfur Road, pointing the way to a quaint café off the beaten path.

Jim Wardlow has turned his "man cave," a large garage and shop to tinker with his Harley and El Camino, into a café for his wife, Heather.

A long-time waitress in the Pickwick area, Heather serves up traditional Southern food for breakfast and lunch.

Homemade biscuits, gravy, pancakes, omelets, country ham and pork tenderloin are available all day. There are burgers, fish dinners, chicken strips, hamburger steak, salads and even sweet potato fries. There are $7 lunch plates and the menu changes monthly.

Meals can be enjoyed on an outdoor deck, decorated with Jim’s "old stuff " when he lost his "man cave."

The Captain’s Galley The restaurant inside the Pickwick Landing State Park Inn offers an excellent view of Pickwick Lake and the dam while dining out. The state park is one of the most visited parks in the Tennessee State Parks system. Two big reasons are the inn and restaurant.

An outdoor viewing area with rocking chairs provides a great place to relax after a meal. Tables and chairs are available for folks to dine outdoors Hospitality Manager Angie Martin and her crew serve up a varied menu and buffets are featured for breakfast, lunch and dinner - usually on the weekends and at other times during the peak visitation season.

The inn and park have banquet facilities and meeting rooms, so many conferences, business meetings, reunions and staff developments are held there.

The Outpost General Store, Grill and Catering Located on Highway 128 on the north side of the dam, this relatively new café in a renovated bait shop is also the home of Balanced Life Ministries, country store, ice cream shop, deli, bait and tackle shop, and fresh produce stand.

Cher and Jay Harrison greet visitors with smiles and the rustic décor provides a unique experience.

Breakfast and lunch is served and the restaurant offers its lunch menu until closing time at 6 p.m. Deli-style sandwiches are offered on homemade bread and Jay’s pulled pork barbecue and ribs continue to get great reviews in an area known for barbecue joints.

A back covered deck adds to the experience. Part of the proceeds and all tips go to the outreach ministry.

The Historic Botel Restaurant Bar and Grill Linda Quick and her family and staff are keeping a historic Pickwick landmark alive with continuing improvements. The hotel, restaurant and bar are built on a river barge,

The Hills

hence "Botel." Located below the dam, it offers a great view of the Tennessee River.

The lunch and dinner menu is varied, offering everything from pizza and steaks to a low country boil, seafood items, and fried Tennessee River catfish with all the trimmings.

Live night entertainment is offered some weekends.

Stumpy’s It’s Pickwick’s smallest operation with drive-thru service, but the bright green shack on Highway 57 west of the dam offers much more than 32 flavors of shaved ice.

Sherry Wordlow – family members call her "Stumpy" – is a long-time restaurant and church cook. She and daughter Kristy Jackson serve up daily specials and sandwiches – great for take-out for a lake picnic experience.

Tennessee River Pizza Company Also west of the dam, this restaurant is all things Italian.

In addition to homemade pizza, Jean Meter and crew serves up a huge selection of sandwiches, salads, and pasta. Two popular options at the eatery are "Build Your Own Pizza" and "Build Your Own Pasta" concepts with many options from which to choose.

Pickwick Catfish Farm Restaurant Pam Goese, daughter of long-time owners Betty and Quentin Knussman, is keeping the 40-year smoked catfish tradition alive at Pickwick. Located several miles west of Counce, the restaurant on a former catfish farm is about the only place in the world to get smoked catfish. After 40 years, the seasoning and smoking process remains secret, but the end result has a huge following. The restaurant has a broad menu. Smoked catfish is also offered as an appetizer for skeptical first timers.

Whistlin’ Dixie Cafe Wanda Wilbanks and her crew serve up breakfast and lunch in a place where the locals hang out. Located west of Counce on Highway 57, the homemade biscuits and traditional breakfast are popular. There are lunch specials and plenty of grill items to order, including popular cheeseburgers, patty melts, philly cheese steak and bologna and cheese.

One unusual twist on the menu is the slugburger – a meat and soy filler mixture deep fat fried and served on a hamburger bun with mustard, dill pickle and onion. Slugburgers have made nearby Corinth famous. The Whistlin’ Dixie decided to place the unusual burger on the menu so locals and visitors could eat them close to Pickwick, Counce and Shiloh area.

Hagy’s Catfish Hotel Located off Highway 22 near Shiloh National Military Park, no trip to the area is complete without a sample of fried Tennessee River Catfish from Hagy’s. Nestled on the bank of the Tennessee River, the restaurant has been operated by the same family for 75 years. Although the menu is varied with plenty of options, Hagy’s fried catfish is the star. Most local folks would argue it’s the place to go if one is searching for a true, traditional, memorable eating experience. edm eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 63

The Delta

Tasteful Artistry is a Family Affair

64 JUNE/JULY 2014

The Delta

Veronica's Club Sandwich is made with sliced ham and turkey, hard cooked egg, bacon, lettuce, tomato and melted cheese.

STORY BY JO ALICE DARDEN PHOTOGRAPHY BY JO ALICE DARDEN AND REGINA LAVERE

V

eronica LaVere is truly an artist. Fortunately for Greenwood and the surrounding Delta, she has chosen to express her passion by creating an enormous variety of bakery confections and pastries that are heavenly food for the soul.

She couldn’t know how much she would come to love baking until reaching high school in Glendale, Calif., where an elective program trained students in food service and let them get their feet wet by making and selling lunches in The Bistro, which was part of the school’s cafeteria, and catering events.

"I really started to get into cooking then," Veronica said.

Once she was recruited by the California School of Culinary Arts, where she discovered her talent for baking, there was no stopping her.

Right after her graduation from the culinary arts school, Veronica’s family moved to Greenwood – about 10 years ago.

Her dad, Steve LaVere, is a renowned expert on vintage blues.

Where better to study the blues than the Mississippi Delta? In downtown Greenwood, he opened a multi-use facility containing a blues museum; a restaurant called the Blue Parrot, which served Latin American fare made by his wife, Regina LaVere, a self-taught cook; and a bakery for Veronica. After several

years, Veronica’s Custom Bakery moved to West Park Avenue in Greenwood, and Regina brought her cooking along with it.

Veronica, 30, is becoming widely known for her talent with breathtakingly imaginative, original cake designs for all occasions.

"She is obsessed with baking," Regina said of her daughter.

"She works long hours on her original designs. In fact, one day, she made 17 cakes! And the decorations – they’re all edible."

For those occasions when she has to fill a multitude of custom cake orders, Veronica sets up an assembly line, and family members will pitch in and help where they can. Both Regina and Veronica’s 11-year-old niece, Isabella Vasquez, who also helps out at the register after school and on Saturdays, make a dynamic duo of co-decorators.

But they’re only part of what Veronica’s Custom Bakery offers.

Open from 10 a.m. until 4 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday for lunch and serving breakfast all day Saturday, the restaurant dishes up a variety of hot and cold sandwiches, mostly made

by Regina, including a Cuban-spiced roasted pork and ham sandwich, a po’ boy with sautéed tiger shrimp and a veggie sandwich with feta cheese and avocado. Sandwiches are made eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 65

The Delta

Eggs Benedict is a Saturday breakfast specialty and a customer favorite at Veronica's Custom Bakery, served with either fresh fruit or hash browns.

From the left, Regina LaVere, Isabella Vasquez and Veronica LaVere are the family members who operate Veronica's Custom Bakery in Greenwood.

on a choice of breads and with homemade dressings. Soups and daily specials, such as arroz con pollo (Cuban rice with chicken), complement the regular fare. And the tortilla chips offered as a side selection are homemade – crispy, earthy, yummy.

Breakfasts on Saturday are worth rolling out of bed for – eggs benedict, huevos rancheros, fresh fruit crêpes, even stacks of buttermilk pancakes.

And save room for dessert. Veronica’s homemade cheesecakes, plain and fancy, are lined up alongside other confections – light and flaky Napoleons, chewy brownies, chocolate chip cookies, Mexican wedding cookies. Irresistible.

Veronica said she is constantly looking for ways to freshen up and maybe even lighten up her desserts.

ABOVE - Fresh Fruit Crêpes, served for breakfast all day Saturday, are filled with fresh seasonal fruit and drizzled with Regina's homemade warm rum sauce. RIGHT - Thai Salad explodes with flavors - chicken, beef or pork, with mixed greens, onion bits, shredded cheese, carrots, celery, mandarin oranges and avocado with homemade Thai dressing. Roasted peanuts are optional.

66 JUNE/JULY 2014

"I’m trying different things to make some of the desserts more healthful," she said, noting the trends toward sugar-free and gluten-free offerings and simple, uncomplicated confections. For the summer, for example, she is planning to offer "fruit fools" – cups of fresh fruit in a swirl of whipped cream.

Veronica has found her passion. Regina wants her daughter to soar to heights of pastry stardom. And Isabella said she just might follow in her aunt’s footsteps. But for now, the family is nestled in Greenwood, all making beautiful art for their lucky customers. edm Veronica’s Custom Bakery 527F West Park Ave., Greenwood 662.451.9425

The Delta

ARROZ CON POLLO (CUBAN RICE WITH CHICKEN) Makes 6 servings 1 whole chicken 1/4 cup vegetable oil 1 cup uncooked rice 1 medium diced onion 1 cup chopped carrots 1 cup chopped celery 1 cup green olives 1 teaspoon chipotle powder 1 teaspoon sweet smoked paprika 3 cups chicken broth Remove skin from the chicken. Cut chicken into serving-sized pieces and sauté in the oil in a large skillet.

Remove the chicken from the skillet and set aside.

Cook the rice on the oil in the skillet. Add the onion, carrots, celery and olives and cook for a few minutes. Return the chicken pieces to the skillet with the vegetables, and sprinkle with the chipotle powder and paprika. Pour the broth into the skillet. Cook over medium heat until the mixture is a little dry.

Cover the skillet and let the mixture steam for about 10 minutes. Make sure the chicken and onions are cooked thoroughly. Serve hot.

Regina suggests serving this dish with black beans and fried bananas or plantains for the richest Cuban flavor.

VERONICA’S FUDGE BROWNIES Makes 16 brownies 1 (12-ounce) bag semi-sweet chocolate morsels 1/4 pound butter (1 stick) 3 whole eggs 1 cup granulated sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 3/4 cup all-purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon salt In a double-boiler, over low heat, melt chocolate and butter together. Set aside and allow to cool to nearly room temperature.

Preheat oven to 350°. Butter an 8-inch square baking pan. Line the bottom of the pan with parchment paper, and butter the paper.

In a large mixing bowl, whisk together eggs, sugar and vanilla extract. Add the flour, baking powder and salt, and whisk. Add the cooled chocolate mixture, whisking until well blended.

Pour mixture into prepared pan. Bake at 350° for 30 to 35 minutes, until firm. Do not overbake. Allow to cool completely before cutting. Makes 16 (2-inch) brownies.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 67

The Pines

Find Good Food and Good Company Off Beaten Path at Proffitt's Porch

A

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY KATIE HUTSON WEST

bit of cool shade from the warm Mississippi sun awaits in the backwoods of Columbus. Known as a place for good company, good food, and beautiful surroundings, Proffitt’s Porch is a peaceful retreat off the beaten path.

Only a few miles from town, Proffitt’s Porch feels like it's miles from nowhere. Just down from the Columbus Lock and Dam, the building is surrounded by woods and water. On the drive in, expect to pass a fisherman or two settled on the banks. Officer’s Lake is the backdrop for ‘The Porch’ and it is so serene even a pair of bald eagles made their nest in the great Pine tree behind the restaurant many years ago. "Babies 18 and 19 are up there now," co-owner Campbell Proffitt says about their most recent offspring.

At 77 years young, Bob Proffitt joins his son

68 JUNE/JULY 2014

Campbell at the restaurant early every morning. "Us being here all the time is what’s made it so successful," Campbell says of the family business he’s been involved in much of his life. Being on the front line and hearing first-hand what his customers do and don’t like, the Proffitt’s have created a cadence of service unmatched by many. Very much a family business, Bob’s wife, Elizabeth, makes all the delectable desserts.

"She keeps trying to hand it over, but I won’t take the recipes," Campbell smiles, speaking of his mother.

Before the Proffitts had a restaurant overlooking the lake, they manned a little concession stand on the gravel pit. There to feed the swimmers and sunbathers, the Proffitts offered sandwiches and chips; however, their small stand could barely cater to the demand of the belly-growling, beachgoers. The Proffitts decided

The Pines

Campbell and Bob Proffitt eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 69

The Pines

Seafood on French bread, side of Red Beans and Rice, and sweet tea

to expand. "We woke up at the crack of dawn every day for a year," Campbell says of the days back in ’85 when he and his father built the restaurant with their own hands. "This wood," says Campbell, pointing to the wall, "came from those woods back there."

A longtime hotspot for the residents of Columbus Air Force Base, the word of Proffitt’s Porch has been spread far and wide. "We’ve had customers from all over the world," says Campbell. Relying on word of mouth to get folks in the door has definitely worked for this family’s restaurant.

Patrons can choose a whole or half sandwich on fresh New Orleans style French bread. Po-Boys such as Smoked Turkey, French Dip, and the Reuben are made to order and served with a pickle and a smile. Created because Campbell loves the Muffalettas out of New Orleans but thought they could be just a little better, ‘The Cam’ contains roast, ham, salami, pepperoni, Swiss, and diced green olive relish.

Another hit at Proffitt’s Porch is the Seafood on French. Filled to capacity with boiled shrimp and crabmeat, the sandwich is then topped off with their own, homemade Kumbac sauce.

Served in a ripe, red tomato on a bed of fresh lettuce, the Proffitt’s Chicken Salad is surrounded by apples, oranges, grapes, celery, carrots, and eggs. Add a dash of raspberry vinaigrette and a glass of cold lemonade for a perfect summer meal.

Red Beans and Rice is a must have at Proffitt’s Porch. Using cumin as the main spice, these beans and rice don’t taste like the ones out of Louisiana. Whether a small cup on the side or a big bowl as a whole meal, it’s sure to delight. "We 70 • JUNE/JULY 2014

use a Texas-based recipe for our beans and rice," Campbell explains. And they go through a ton of it. "I haven’t entered them into a competition yet, but I know they’d win if I did."

Another house specialty is their Seafood Gumbo; a bowlful of whitefish, shrimp, crabmeat, okra, tomato, celery, and onion all blended together with spices and a mild Mississippi roux.

And for dessert, Mrs. Proffitt whips up delicacies such as chocolate chip pie and chocolate chess pie. Both are served heated with a generous amount of whipped cream. Available with or without strawberries, people come from miles around just to get the cheesecake; which is made with only the freshest ingredients.

After a few attempts at trying to change up the menu, the Proffitt’s found that their customers like to keep things the same. People keep coming back for the familiarities of not only the menu, but the atmosphere as well. There’s no cable, no TV’s. "When you’re out here, you have to talk to each other," says Campbell; proud of the comfortable, family environment. Proffitt’s Porch is a unique place. Generation after generation bring their families in to experience the downhome feel of the restaurant. "Kids I used to know bring in their kids now," Campbell says; adding, "But I still meet someone new everyday who heard about us from someone else." edm Proffitt's Porch 1587 Officers Lake Rd., Columbus 662.327.4485

The Pines

TOP - The porch ABOVE - Employees Marisa Fromm, Sam Wilkins, and Mary Margaret Swain CENTER RIGHT - James Ervin, Jr. of Columbus visits Proffitt's Porch often to photograph the eagles.

This is one of his photographs.

RIGHT - Mrs. Elizabeth's Chocolate Chess Pie eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 71

Capital/River

Anjou Brings

French Cuisine Southern Palate to the

Chocolate Profiteroles - Cream puffs filled with ice cream on a bed of chocolate sauce 72 JUNE/JULY 2014

Capital/River STORY BY SUSAN MARQUEZ PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRICE MEDIA

T

wo years ago, a bit of France made its way into Ridgeland in the form of an elegant, yet comfortable restaurant.

Anne Amelot Holmes, proprietor of Anjou, was tapped to bring French cuisine to the southern palate.

Despite moving to Mississippi from the Anjou region of France when she was nine years old, Holmes has the most charming Southern accent, until she slips effortlessly into speaking French. Her father, Christian Amelot, was the chef at the old Sundancer restaurant in Highland Village in Jackson before moving into the food service business. Holmes moved back to France for a few years in her late teens and early twenties before returning to the Jackson area, where she began waiting tables at Amerigo under the management of David Conn in 1997. She then went to work at Nick’s for 11 years before motherhood dictated a different lifestyle. In 2011, she became the sales and marketing director for the CHAR/Sombra/Amerigo group.

After only a few months in that position, Conn told Holmes he had been offered the old AJ’s on the Lake space in the Township at Highland Colony Parkway in Ridgeland.

When Conn asked her if she had any ideas for restaurant concepts, she immediately suggested a French restaurant.

Conn agreed, and said that he wanted her to do it with them, and her dad had to be the chef.

Things moved quickly and in April 2012, the restaurant opened. "We used all my dad’s recipes, and the entire menu was in French," recalls Anne. "We had to learn by trial and error that many people were a bit intimidated by the menu."

So now it has evolved, and the menu of classic French dishes is now in user-friendly English. "We call it ‘French with a Southern Flair!’"

Some of the misconceptions about the restaurant that Holmes has had to counter are that the food may be heavy and rich, that it’s expensive and strictly a fine-dining restaurant. "False, false, false!," Holmes exclaims. "Our food is light and fresh, more like you’d find in the French countryside.

Our menu is surprisingly affordable and we are very kidfriendly. Sure, we have white tablecloths, but we cover the tops with butcher paper and kids get crayons to draw with.

There’s even a kid’s menu, which is a great way to introduce children to different foods."

Time and time again Holmes says couples will come to the restaurant for the first time to celebrate an anniversary or other special event, and when they realize how reasonable the menu prices are, they become regulars. "We’ve had to overcome the stigma of being an intimidating French restaurant.

People are realizing more and more that we are a wonderful family restaurant with good food and good service in a family atmosphere."

Today the kitchen is run by Chef Daryl Maloney, who executes Christian Amelot’s menu daily. Maloney was trained in classic French cooking in his native Oklahoma. "Dad still pops in and guides him," says Holmes.

Diners at Anjou can enjoy French classics such as escargot and French onion soup. "Many of our customers have never

Anne Amelot Holmes

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 73

Capital/River

Duck Breast - Pan seared served w/ sautéed Napa cabbage, bacon, onions, apples and whipped sweet potatoes finished with a cranberry orange demi

had escargot, but when they try it here, they love it. And as for the soup, I was sure it would be a hit in the colder months, but we have been surprised that people order it year ‘round. It can be 110 degrees outside, but people still order the soup!"

Anjou serves lunch and dinner daily. One of the popular lunchtime dishes is the Croque Monsieur sandwich, a warm ham and cheese on sourdough bread topped with Gruyere cheese, bechamel sauce, and an egg. The restaurant also offers daily lunch specials such as red beans and rice, meatloaf, roasted chicken, brisket, and even catfish. There is also a good selection of salads, quiches, tarts and crepes as well as heartier entrées.

Dinner at Anjou is more relaxed, a time to unwind with a glass of French wine and a multi-course meal. The wine selection is extensive, with about half of the by-the-glass wines offered being French. Appetizer offerings range from savory zucchini beignets with creamy feta to escargots de Bourgone with a Pernod-garlic butter to mussels, oysters, and cheese and charcuterie plates. One of the most popular appetizers is the salmon pastrami tartine presented with house cured salmon pastrami tossed with arugula, capers and red onion in a lemon vinaigrette. It’s served on brioche with garlic aioli with a hard cooked egg.

The selection of entrées is impressive. Chicken breasts served with root vegetable purée and natural au jus, veal Normande, ribeyes, pan-seared scallops, salmon Provençal, and 74 • JUNE/JULY 2014

the list goes on. One of the signature dishes at Anjou is the duck breast, pan seared with sautéed Napa cabbage, bacon, onions, apples, and whipped sweet potatoes finished with a cranberry orange demi.

In the something-sweet department, Anjou delivers with chocolate profiteroles that are as beautiful as they are delicious. Classic puff pastries are stuffed with vanilla ice cream, sitting on a bed of chocolate ganache. Also popular is the apple tart tatin, made famous at the Hotel Tatin in LamotteBeuvron, France. And this time of year especially, the strawberry crêpes, filed with fresh strawberries and whipped cream, are a favorite.

The restaurant is open seven days a week, and offers a special brunch on Saturdays and Sundays. "People love our eggs Benedict," says Holmes. "It could be because we serve it over croissants instead of English muffins!"

At full capacity, the restaurant seats 230 to 240 people. A private dining room can accommodate parties of ten up to 60. The spacious bar is a gathering place each afternoon from 5 p..m to 7 p.m. for happy hour. When the weather’s nice, patrons spill out onto the patio overlooking a small lake. In addition to standard cocktail fare, Anjou’s bartender mixes up Anjou martinis and the classic French 75. And of course, the bar offers the popular French beer, Kronenberg 1664.

The décor of the restaurant is decidedly French, but not kitschy. The dark wood paneling and spacious dining rooms lend an air of sophistication to the classic French bistro. The setting on the lake gives a casual, relaxed feel. Throughout the restaurant are tasteful black and white photographs featuring scenes in France. "I took all the photographs myself," Holmes says.

Anjou also does catering for both private and corporate events. edm

Capital/River

Anjou Restaurant 361 Township Ave., Ridgeland 601.707.0587 www.anjourestaurant.net

Salmon Pastrami Tartine - House cured salmon pastrami tossed with arugula, capers, and red onion in a lemon vinaigrette, served on brioche with garlic aioli topped with hard cooked egg eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 75

Coastal

Scoot On In to Scooters for simple food that's simply good

76 • JUNE/JULY 2014

Coastal

Running Down Your Arms Good Roast Beef Po-Boy

story and photography by julian brunt

E

very once in a while you run into a little restaurant that suffers no pretentions. There are no white tablecloths, no snooty waiters, no up-scale jazz playing in the background. The floors are bare wood and desperately need to be refinished, the tables are of the folding plastic variety, but the food, oh my goodness! The food is grand! And that is exactly what owner-chef Chemin Pitre intended Scooters to be.

Hurricane Katrina drove Chef Chemin and her husband, Kenny, out of St. Bernard Parish; times were bleak, and people everywhere where running from one bad situation to another. Sometimes it takes a disaster to push people in the direction they have always wanted to go, and that very bad storm pushed Chemin into her dream job of opening a restaurant.

Scooters has been open almost three years now, and has been embraced by the good folks of Poplarville with open arms. The fame of this just darn-good simple food place is growing, and during my visit a group of senior bicyclists making their way from California to Florida stopped by forty strong. It seems Scooters has become a mandatory stop for this annual pilgrimage. This place really is that good.

The theme here is "N'awlins-style, with a smile." It is a Cajun, Creole, relaxed NOLA sort of place. But don't expect red beans and rice on Monday. Chef Chemin walks her own walk, and Monday is jambalaya stuffed bell peppers. What a refreshing re-take on the start of the week!

There just could not be a menu any more simple than this; daily specials and a handful of sandwiches, a simple salad or two and a few soups, a few things for the kids, and a dessert.

That’s it. But who cares if the menu selections are sparse when eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 77

Coastal

what is on the menu is so good?

If you get the half roast beef po-boy, you will never forgive yourself. It is gravy running down your arms good, and requires half a roll of paper towels. It's served with a good handful of potato chips and a crunchy spear of dill pickle.

Never was such a culinary match made in heaven like this. Be sure to get it dressed.

The French-a-latta is another NOLA-inspired offering.

It’s a po-boy stuffed with salami, ham, pepperoni, provolone cheese, and a locally made olive salad. It is a solid choice, with lots of olive oil and the charcuterie is a wonderful pairing. Other top picks include the meatballs and spaghetti, 78 • JUNE/JULY 2014

chicken club, and the meatball po-boy.

If you visit Scooters, you certainly will not leave hungry.

The ladies who run this place are putting up some seriously good food, in serious quantities. There's a fair amount of good fun being had in the kitchen, even when things are pumping, but Scooters stands behind every dish that passes out of the window. Guy Fieri, where are you? edm Scooters 613 South Main St., Poplarville 601.620.8002

Coastal

Owner Chemin Pitre and Sarah Herbert

Meatballs and Spaghetti

Chicken Club and a dill

French-a-latta Po-boy eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 79

Recipe Index Arroz con Pollo, 67 Bacon-Wrapped Pickled Watermelon Rind, 43 Buttermilk Biscuit Dough, 33 Canned String Beans, 53 Dave's Stuff, 53 Ecor Rouge Catch, 56 Heirloom Tomato Pie, 33 Heirloom Tomato Salsa, 35 Pickled Watermelon Rind, 43 Pig Pickin' Cake, 19 Red Rind Pimento Cheese, 57

Trying to remember which issue that recipe you've wanted to try is in?

Been flipping through pages to find the article on that restaurant you've been wanting to visit?

We've made it simple to find what you're looking for. Visit our website for a complete index of all of our features and recipes.

You're welcome!

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI

Roasted Chicken Thighs with Fennel and Heirloom Tomatoes, 34

www.eatdrinkmississippi.com

Sarabella's Easy "5-Minute Appetizer", 31 Sarabella's Tantalizing Tomato Tarts, 31 Turkey & Brie Grilled Cheese, 11

STORE INFORMATION from pages 12-13

Vanilla Bean Iced Coffee, 58 Veronica's Fudge Brownies, 67 Watermelon Rind Preserves, 42 Watermelon Gin Fizzes, 43

Advertisers Index Brice Media, 29 Etta B Pottery, 7 Fat Cake Guy, 10 Friends of McLeod Park, 23 Mangia Bene, 10 McComb Electric, 10 Metal Builders Supply, 28 Mississippi Hospitality & Restaurant Association, 2 MS Delta Ducks, 29 Natchez Food & Wine Festival, 17 Olde Towne Clinton, 10 Ridgeland Tourism, 4 Sanderson Farms, back The Kitchen Table, 7 Tupelo, 83 80 JUNE/JULY 2014

Belk 1.866.235.5443 • www.belk.com Mississippi locations - Biloxi, Columbus, Corinth, Flowood, Gautier, Greenville, Gulfport, Hattiesburg, Laurel, McComb, Meridian, Natchez, Oxford, Ridgeland, Tupelo, Vicksburg Dana Wittman Designs 228.234.7517 • www.danawdesigns.com Lemondaisy Design www.lemondaisydesign.com Mud Pie 678.397.0170 • www.mud-pie.com Ocean Styles 561.791.6396 • www.oceanstyles.com Pier 1 1.800.245.4595 • www.pier1.com Mississippi locations - Flowood, Gulfport, Hattiesburg, Ridgeland, Southaven, Tupelo Seaside Inspired www.seasideinspired.com The Kitchen Table 3720 Hardy St., Suite 3 • Hattiesburg, MS 39402 601.261.2224 www.kitchentablenow.com

{ calendar }

Fill Your Plate June 14 Kiln - McLeod Park BBQ Cookoff and Car Show Come spend the day and enjoy BBQ, a car show, kids games, live music, silent auction, and more.

This is a family-friendly event that is sponsored by Friends of McLeod Park. For more information, call 228-669-1597 or visit www.facebook.com/friendsofmcleodpark.

June 14 New York City - Mississippi Picnic Hosted each year in Central Park, this annual event brings together some of the best of what Mississippi has to offer, including outstanding music, inspiring art, delicious food and, of course, a healthy dose of Southern hospitality. For more information, visit www.thenyms.org.

June 14 Atlanta - Mississippi Picnic Mississippians gather annually at Atlanta's Chastain Park for authentic Mississippi food, entertainment, and goodies. For more information, visit www.mssocietyofga.org.

July 4-6 Bay St. Louis - Our Lady of the Gulf Crab Festival The Our Lady of the Gulf Crab Festival features incomparable food, live music, arts and crafts booths, rides, raffles, crab races, and much more. Food items include boiled crab and shrimp, shrimp and catfish po-boys, gumbo, crab stuffed potatoes and biscuits, and more. For more information, call 228-467-6509 or visit www.olgchurch.net.

June/July 2014

Food Festivals & Events July 13 Biloxi - 10th Annual Martini Shakedown Support the Make-A-Wish FoundationÂŽ of Mississippi at the annual Martini Shakedown at Beau Rivage Casino. A silent auction will feature martini gift packages from both local and national artists, vacation getaways, unique one of a kind items, and an array of tempting food prepared by the Beau Rivage's resort chefs that are sure to tempt everyone's taste buds. For more information, call 228-575-8691. Call for tickets.

July 18-19 Mize - 36th Annual Mississippi Watermelon Festival Enjoy two full days of music, fun, arts and crafts, and all the free watermelon you care to eat. The festival will feature a 5K run, and a great car and truck show hosted by the Smith County Cruisers. Be sure to join in the fun of the watermelon eating contest and the seed spitting contest and don't miss the biggest watermelon contest. For more information, call 601-733-5647 or visit www. mswatermelonfestival.com.

July 25-27 Natchez Food & Wine Festival The Natchez Food and Wine Festival takes you from one remarkable experience to the next. You will find yourself constantly surrounded with some of the region's most prominent chefs and restaurants, and indulge in the finest of food, wine, and entertainment. Make reservations soon to attend this unforgettable three-day event. For more information, call 601-442-4895 or visit www.natchezfoodandwinefest.com.

To have your food festival or culinary event included in future issues, please contact us at info@eatdrinkmississippi.com. All submissions are subject to editor's approval.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 81

Food Nerd and Proud of It

BY JAY REED

I

f you are into social media at all, you may have noticed lately that there are lots of lists being shared. Right now on my timeline, should I choose to accept the challenge, I can learn "Ten Trick Pitches," discover "Nine Movies Too Hard to Watch," or get ideas from "Five Hilarious Celebrity Pranks." I suppose I am just as curious as the next guy to find out what the gang from The Wonder Years looks like now, but it was another list that caught my eye.

Here’s the question that jumped out of my email: Are you a food nerd?

(It was so personal I thought maybe someone was stalking me.) According to www.eatingoxford.com, if one meets even half of the criteria below then the qualifications for nerd-dom have been met. I guess if you meet them all, then you are…me.

1. Years later, you still talk about "that burger" from "that place." Well, yes. I can tell you about the burger and shake from Stafford’s in West Point, describe each variation of shrimp and grits from three John Currence eateries in Oxford, and expound on the fish taco in the puffy tortilla from Huck’s in Columbus. Need I go on? Fashion nerds remember what they wore on the date sixteen years ago, food nerds can still taste the dessert.

2. You make travel decisions based on restaurant choices. Sightseeing is optional. Mickey Mouse isn’t going anywhere, 82 JUNE/JULY 2014

but that chef might move to Charleston, the barbecue place might burn down (wood happens), or the son we thought would take over the meat-n-three joint might decide to be a pharmacist instead.

3. You’ve been caught more than a few times taking photos of your food. For every one picture of somebody’s dinner on Facebook, there are three pictures of cats doing something hilarious. I rest my case.

4. You can name more favorite chefs than favorite actors. If I am stranded on a deserted island with only one other person, who would I choose? Oprah Winfrey to recommend a book to pass the time? James Earl Jones to narrate our experience? Unlikely. How about we bring Cat Cora if it’s a Greek Island, Robert St. John if it’s off the coast of Italy, or Linkie Marais if the island is …

Australia. Now we’re talking. And we’re also eating.

5. It takes you longer to choose a restaurant than to eat. New place or old stand-by? Family friendly or formal?

And what about reviews? One friend had a fly in her soup and couldn’t finish the meal, the other raved about it because the fly was fresh and local. And the menu can be an even bigger issue.

When we go Mexican I’m faced with a seven page single-spaced menu to wade through. Seasonal menus are great, but that makes every dish a limited edi-

BILL DABNEY PHOTOGRAPHY

{ till we eat again }

Jay Reed, a graduate of Ole Miss, lives in Starkville where he is a pharmacist by day and a freelance food writer by day off. He is a member of the Southern Foodways Alliance and writes "Eats One Ate," a weekly column in the Starkville Daily News.

tion and I go into collectaholic mode.

Ditto for the daily special: that chef may never, ever prepare that dish with that sauce again, and I will always wonder.

6. You’re a fan of a food-centric website, such as EatingOxford.com. Obviously this is true, or I wouldn’t have even found this life-defining list. And I don’t just surf the food sites, I have one of my own. And I went to a foodblogging conference. And perhaps I get a tad too excited when anyone in the culinary world accidentally hits "follow" on my Twitter page.

I’m long familiar with nerd-dom, I’m afraid. I actually chose to wear a turtleneck in 5th grade to impress a girl.

I was a total band geek through high school and beyond. I put on my Mr. Rogers cardigan when I get home from work in the winter. But you know what?

The turtleneck won her heart, I carried that marching snare around the world, and the sweater – well, nobody sees me in it but my immediate family, and they already know I’m a nerd. And now that I’ve been outed as a food nerd to the nth degree, I suppose I should just embrace it. If you’re one, too, I’ll probably see you at that place where that chef works that has that dish that was featured in that magazine. No need for a secret handshake - the flash will give us away. edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI 83

Since we started in 1947, our chicken has been free of extra salt, water and other additives. It’s not just 100% natural. It’s 100% chicken.

For recipes visit us at SandersonFarms.com or find us on Facebook.

84 JUNE/JULY 2014