Eat Drink Mississippi June/July 2019

7 Extreme Milkshakes | Community Farmers Market | Corinth’s Slugburger Festival

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI Perfectly Patriotic Treats

biedenharn coca-cola museum to commemorate 125th anniversary of first bottled coke

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

2 • JUNE/JULY 2019

Creamy, dreamy fudge in a jar!

Perfect for special events, fundraisers, wedding favors, or treat yourself by ordering online.

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Wingin' It In the Capital City Some days, all you need is a basket of chicken wings and fries. Luckily, several places in the capital city offer delicious wings that any wing fanatic will love. Here are some of our favorite places to get some hot wings.

E &L Barbeque For nearly 30 years, E&L has been serving up delicious ribs, tips, hot links, and, of course, fried chicken wings. Wing baskets are available in 4, 5, and 6-count baskets, and they come with fries and white bread – a classic that will leave you satisfied and coming back for more. If you want a little more food, opt for the Fried Chicken Wing Plate that comes with barbecue sauce, choice of two sides, and white bread.

M-Bar Known for their fun atmosphere and bar bites, M-Bar’s claim to fame is their chicken wings. Baskets come in 6, 10, 20, 50, or 100 pieces in either original or metro style. Sauces include lemon pepper, mild, hot, BBQ, garlic Parmesan, Thai chili, honey gold, or M Sauce. No matter what your favorite is, every wing lover will have a favorite at M-Bar. You can also opt for the Scooter Wing entrée, which is 4 whole wings and comes served with one side of your choice. Of course, wash down all those wings with one of M-Bar’s specialty drinks or a cold beer. Next time you have a large party and are craving wings, head to M-Bar for specialty wings and a good time in a great atmosphere.

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Capitol Grill Capitol Grill’s menu is incredibly extensive, and everything is delicious, but if you’re in the mood just for a plate of wings, they’ve got you covered. Fried whole chicken wings are available with either sweet BBQ, Nashville hot, sweet chili, sweet Asian, spicy garlic, or Parmesan garlic sauces and come in counts of 3, 6, 12, or 24. If you don’t necessarily like eating wings with bones, the Giant Fried Chicken Tenders can be ordered drenched in any of the wings sauces for a boneless chicken option. Complete your meal with an order of chips and salsa or stadium fries and you’ve got a delicious, filling meal in one of Jackson’s favorite sports bars.

Last Call No sports bar is complete without wings and beer, and that’s exactly what you can find at Last Call. Boneless wings are available in counts of 10, 15, 25, and 50, and bone-in wings come in 7, 14, 21, or 50-count. Wings can be ordered battered, grilled, or classic, which are baked and fried for crispiness.

When it comes to sauces, it’s a tough decision to make because the sauce list is so extensive. Choose from all-star (comeback with a kick), mango habanero, fire, hot, mild, BBQ, dusted ranch, Asian, gochujang, bourbon, BBQ chipotle, lemon pepper, sweet red chili, sweet & spicy BBQ, spicy garlic, or tropical jerk. If you dare, try the Howling Sauce – but only after you sign the waiver! If you want a bigger chunk of chicken, order drums of heaven: juicy, jumbo chicken drums fried and tossed in sauce.

Everyone in your party is sure to find a favorite wing sauce at Last Call. Be sure to check out their Facebook page for daily specials, and head to Last Call the next time you’re craving wings.

Eat, drink and be soulful at the MS Craft Beer Festival and MS Food & Wine Festival June 14th and 15th.

visitjackson.com

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CONTENTS June/July 2019 Volume 8 Number 4

27

17 39

in this issue 24 MISSISSIPPI MADE Lamont’s BBQ

26 CHEF’S CORNER Jesse Houston Hangs His Chef’s Hat in Jackson Once Again

28 COMMUNITY

in every issue 8 From the Publisher 10 From Our Readers 11 What’s Happening 12 Fabulous Foodie Finds 16 A Taste of Magnolia 55 Dining Guide 62 Events 64 Recipe/Ad Index 66 Till We Eat Again 6 • JUNE/JULY 2019

Crossroads Farmers Market in Clarksdale Seeks to Educate, Employ, and Provide Healthy Foods to the Delta

32 FRESH FROM THE FARM Got Milk? Beason Family Farm Does

36 SHAKING IT TO THE EXTREME 7 Over-the-top Milkshakes to Keep You Cool for Summer

46 FROM MISSISSIPPI TO BEYOND Chef Alexis Jones Nourishes the Nation

50 CAJUN SMOKER Boudin Business Is Booming on Gulf Coast

52 FROM THE BOOKSHELF Julia Reed’s New Orleans

54 RAISE YOUR GLASS Orange Rum Gimlet

56 WHERE TO EAT DT Grinders in Meridian

60 FEATURED FESTIVAL Slugburger Festival in Corinth

42 CELEBRATING A CLASSIC Biedenharn Coca-Cola Museum to Commemorate 125th Anniversary of First Bottled Coke ON THE COVER: Patriotic Punch by Lisa LaFontaine Bynum, page 22

3720 Hardy Street, Suite 3 | Hattiesburg, MS | 601-261-2224 www.KitchenTableNow.com

Come visit our fair city!

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 7

{ from the publisher }

Summer Fun in the Magnolia State

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s much as I love our beautiful state, I must admit that this time of year is my least favorite. If the temps we’ve had the past few weeks are any indication, this summer could be one for the record books.

If you’re looking for something to do while staying cool at the same time, look no further than the Mississippi Arts + Entertainment Experience (The MAX) in Meridian. I had heard great things about our state’s newest museum and finally got to experience it for myself recently. The MAX pays homage to Mississippians who have made indelible marks on the arts and entertainment industry and seeks to inspire future artists. This first-class facility is informative, interactive, and just plain fun. My favorite section is the “Home” exhibit, especially the kitchen. It features an interactive dinner table that gives a history of local foods and dishes by projecting images onto the table when a corresponding plate is placed on a designated place setting. As a protein, such as catfish, is paired with a side dish, like fried green tomatoes, a wellknown Mississippi chef appears with a dish made from those ingredients. I felt like a kid again as I tried every combination possible so I wouldn’t miss a bite of information offered. We are truly blessed to have a museum of this caliber in our state.

While you’re in Meridian, you’ll want to grab a bite to eat.

There are many delicious options including Harvest Grill, Weidman’s (the oldest restaurant in Mississippi), and DT Grinders. You can learn more about DT Grinders in our feature on page 56.

This issue is also filled with many ideas to help make your summer more bearable. Lisa Bynum shares recipes (beginning on page 18) that will make your 4th of July celebration festive and flavorful. Plus, we’ve compiled a list of over-the-top milkshakes that you don’t want to miss. Take a peek at those beginning on page 36. If you want to make a milkshake at home, check out our “Fabulous Foodie Finds” on page 12 for several items that will make that easier and help serve it with style.

Scenes from the kitchen at The MAX in Meridian

J.J. Carney Publisher

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“So I recommend having fun, because there is nothing better for people in this world than to eat, drink, and enjoy life. That way they will experience some happiness along with all the hard work God gives them under the sun.”

Ecclesiastes 8:15

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EAT DRINK MISSISSIPPI (USPS 17200) is published bi-monthly by Carney Publications LLC, 296 F.E. Sellers Hwy., Monticello, MS 39654-9555. Periodicals postage paid at Monticello, MS, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to EAT DRINK MISSISSIPPI, P.O. Box 1663, Madison, MS 39130.

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{ from our readers } From Instagram:

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MISSISSIPPI J.J. Carney Publisher/Editor John Carney Executive Editor Paige McKay Associate Editor Vanessa Case Account Executive

FOLLOW US!

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10 • JUNE/JULY 2019

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{ what’s happening }

Vishwesh Bhatt Wins First James Beard Award for Best Chef: South

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he 2019 James Beard Foundation Award ceremony was recently held in Chicago, and Oxford chef Vishwesh Bhatt finally took home the coveted title of Best Chef: South. Having been nominated for this award six times, this honor has been a long time coming for the Snackbar chef.

“It’s nice to hear your name called, but I wasn’t expecting it because of the past years,” Chef Bhatt joked. “When I didn’t hear one of the other four names called, it took me a minute to process.”

In disbelief, Chef Bhatt had finally been crowned Best Chef: South.

“It’s a huge honor to be put in the same category and level as so many of my mentors,” he said. “It’s a huge validation for what we do.”

Now that Chef Bhatt is a James Beard Award winner, he’s focusing on maintaining excellence at his Oxford restaurant, while also teaching the next generation how to be just as successful.

“That’s our main job as chefs,” he said. “I want to continue doing what we do and make it even better.”

Vishwesh Bhatt

Long Beach Chef Competes in World Food Championship

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ong Beach chef Jackie Seavey recently participated in “The Final Table: New Orleans,” the last installment of this year’s World Food Championship. Ten chefs took the stage in New Orleans to try to win the world’s largest food sport competition. The first task included an Eggs Benedict challenge, where Chef Seavey came in fifth place to move onto the second challenge. On day two, the five remaining chefs recreated a Redfish Bienville dish from the restaurant Tableau. Chef Seavey placed first with her redfish and moved onto the final challenge of creating an Antoine’s-worthy appetizer. Tune in to “The Final Table: New Orleans” on CNBC on August 24th to see if Chef Seavey is crowned this year’s World Food Champion.

Jackie Seavey eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 11

{ fabulous foodie finds }

Shake It Up, Baby!

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t’s summertime, and what better way is there to keep cool than with a tasty milkshake? We’ve found a few items that will help make whipping up a shake easy and stylish. If you’re watching your diet, we’ve discovered a candle that will stir your senses without the added calories. Now’s a good time to shake things up in your kitchen and home. edm

Zeroll Ice Cream Scoop, $19.99 Williams-Sonoma Salted Pretzel Milkshake Candle, $24.50 Bath & Body Works Dash Retro Milkshake Maker, $24.95 Sur la Table 12 • JUNE/JULY 2019

Long-handled Spoons, set of 4, $8.79 Libbey Fountain Shoppe Milkshake Glasses, set of 6, $19.99 Joyeco Rainbow Stainless Steel Jumbo Straws, set of 4, $10.97 All from Amazon

see page 64 for store information eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 13

www.bcbsms.com Blue Cross & Blue Shield of Mississippi, A Mutual Insurance Company is an independent licensee of the Blue Cross and Blue Shield Association. ® Registered2019 Marks of the Blue Cross and Blue Shield Association, an Association of Independent Blue Cross and Blue Shield Plans.

14 • JUNE/JULY

Executive Chef Labron Alexander Serves Up New Takes on Mississippi Favorites “The culinary world actually chose me, not the other way around,” said Labron Alexander, Executive Chef, Blue Cross & Blue Shield of Mississippi.

Chef Labron grew up in the Mississippi Delta where he attended St. Francis of Assisi School in Greenwood. The school was small and students were selected to assist with tasks in the school cafeteria, managed by Ms. Rose Griffin. One of Labron’s pastimes included helping Ms. Rose make her famous peanut butter cookies for special occasions at the school.

“We usually took out the trash or washed the pans, but it was all worth it to have the chance to help Ms. Rose with her cookies.

She took me under her wing, and that was my introduction to the culinary field,” said Chef Labron.

Later, while attending Tougaloo College as a Political Science major, Chef Labron always cooked for his friends and family. “I made hearty meals such as spaghetti, my grandmother’s pot roast and taco salad. The food wasn’t fancy at all, but it was always good.”

Each day when his classes ended at Tougaloo, Chef Labron watched Great Chefs of the World on PBS. On one episode, Chef Nick Apostle, of Mississippi, was featured.

Chef Labron said, “It was a light bulb moment, and I just knew I wanted to be a chef. I graduated from high school and moved into the next phase of life, which was college, but I didn’t necessarily have a passion for Political Science. I knew I wanted to be successful, as a lot of my friends were excelling in the military, at professional football, and in the field of education, but this was the moment I knew I was destined to become a chef because cooking was something I truly enjoyed.”

Shortly after Chef Labron enrolled in culinary school at Hinds Community College, his passion for cooking really took off under the tutelage of Chef Kathleen Bruno. And the rest, as they say, was history. He’s worked for the Intercontinental Hotel Group, the Malouf Family, the Governor’s mansion, and even prepared meals for the New Orleans Saints during their pre-season game in Jackson against the Indianapolis Colts.

Nearly twenty-five years later, Chef Labron is still enthusiastic about preparing Southern cuisine and, for the last 13 years, he has served as the Executive Chef at Blue Cross & Blue Shield of Mississippi. Through collaboration with registered dieticians, he’s seen the menu totally evolve from a protein with two starchy sides and bread to an eclectic menu that includes popular items such as spinach smoothies, vegan offerings, carrot hotdogs, impossible burgers, deconstructed salads, poké bowls, and a vegan play on Southern pulled pork using jackfruit. Chef Labron also routinely leads food demonstrations at Livingstons Farmers Market with Blue Cross & Blue Shield of Mississippi’s Health and Wellness team.

Chef Labron believes fresh food from local sources is the future and the key to living a healthy lifestyle. “With a rise in dietary restrictions and food allergies, people are seeking alternate options for proteins and grains and combination platters featuring smaller

portions of several items. It’s my job, but also a pleasure to produce great fare that will help our employees and Mississippians meet whatever health goals they may have,” said Chef Labron.

Focusing on the details, staying current on industry trends, and, of course, eating at new restaurants when traveling with his family keep Chef Labron serving up the very best in Southern cuisine at Blue Cross & Blue Shield of Mississippi.

Chef Labron Alexander’s Catfish Croquettes, served with braised collard greens and sweet potato purée, are ideal for Father’s Day or Sunday dinner.

For more recipes, visit www.bcbsms.com/behealthy.

Catfish Croquettes 4 catfish fillets, about 6 ounces each 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon Cajun seasoning Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper 1/2 cup canola oil 1 cup panko 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons mayonnaise 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon spicy brown mustard 1 large egg, beaten 2 teaspoons hot sauce 1 tablespoon of sliced green onions 1 teaspoon lemon juice 1 teaspoon chopped garlic Preheat a grill pan over medium-high heat.

Season the catfish on both sides with 1 tablespoon Cajun seasoning, salt, and pepper. Brush the grill pan with some of the canola oil and grill the catfish until cooked through, 4 to 5 minutes on each side. Remove catfish and let cool.

In a large bowl, add 2 tablespoons mayonnaise, green onions, mustard, and egg. Shred the fish with a fork and add to the bowl. Fold everything together, then add panko. Using a ring mold, form mixture into 8 small cakes. Add an outside layer of crumbs to the top and bottom of each cake, and set them aside.

In a large skillet over medium heat, add the remaining canola oil. When it is hot, add the catfish cakes and cook until browned on each side, 4 to 5 minutes total. Drain on paper.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 15

Taste of Magnolia a

Food and Flowers Are Good for the Heart and Soul by divian conner

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DIVIAN CONNER is a Mississippi mama of four ‘not so little’ little ones. Coming up with recipes, trying new ones, and feeding her crew of tweens and teens is her passion. Southern recipes, easy recipes, sorta hard recipes, but always delicious recipes is what you will find on her food blog, www.divianlconner.com.

Now venturing into outdoor cooking over an open fire, Divian is fascinated with camp cooking and entertaining.

16 • JUNE/JULY 2019

hen I was in my late twenties, I found myself a single mama of four.

Newly divorced, I had a huge support system that consisted of a hilarious group of family and friends. They kept me laughing, and I kept their bellies full. Many evenings spent in the company of good people really helped keep me going.

It was during this time I made two choices that, although small and seemingly unexciting, would keep me inspired while I raised my two daughters and two sons. I would cook and prepare meals from my heart with care and love from that moment forward, no matter the time involved, and I would always keep fresh flowers on the table.

So, how did making those two choices keep me inspired, you might ask?

The answer is simple...cooking. It’s, of course, for nourishment, but it’s also a way to express your love for someone. What do we do on holidays, for special occasions, and events? We take our loved ones out to dinner at a fancy restaurant, right? Most of us equate being taken out to dinner as something special, a loving gesture. When you have four children, going out to dinner can get pretty pricey. I soon learned that I could show that same love, that same appreciation, for my children, my family, and my friends, even with a limited income. So, I would cook, we would have dinner and a movie, or dinner and game night. We would pack picnics to take to the park, and while the kids ran around burning energy and throwing water balloons, my friends and I would just have a great time.

I am sure you can understand that part, right? What about the flowers? Well, growing up, my dad stayed in the garden. He planted beautiful flowers, shrubs, and bushes to make our yard the envy of the neighborhood. I would go and pick a few, put them in my hair, or just place them in a glass cup to put in my room. It was just something about the natural beauty that the Earth creates effortlessly that reminded me there is always beauty in every single thing. The flowers acted as a reminder that even in the toughest of situations, there is a silver lining and that there is a reason to smile.

So, here we are today. As I write this, a blue vase of red roses sits atop the dinner table right next to the kids’ dessert ― lemon rose petal shortbread cookies. Looking at the table before my teens get home makes me smile so hard and feel so good.

Next week’s flower choice is Queen Anne’s Lace, but I’m not sure how the kids are going to feel when I tell them I want to add some to a salad. We shall see. edm

Lemon Rose Shortbread Cookies 2 sticks salted butter, softened 1/2 cup powdered sugar 1/2 cup cleaned and finely chopped rose petals 1 teaspoon lemon zest 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 cups of all-purpose flour Lemon glaze, recipe follows In mixing bowl, cream butter and powdered sugar until smooth.

Add in rose petals, lemon zest, and vanilla extract, and gently mix in with creamed butter.

Slowly add in flour until dough is crumbly, and knead the dough into a ball.

Roll dough on lightly floured surface until about 1/2inch thick.

Cut into desired shapes and place on baking sheet.

Bake at 350 degrees F for 15-20 minutes or until pale golden brown.

Allow cookies to cool before pouring lemon glaze over the top of them.

Lemon Glaze 1 cup powdered sugar 1 teaspoon lemon zest Juice of half a lemon Mix all ingredients until creamy. Pour over cooled cookies.

Optional: After rinsing rose petals, dip some in egg white and coat with granulated sugar. Place on baking sheet or plate to dry. Once dry, they will be crunchy. Finely chop the petals to sprinkle on top of glaze. You can also add a thin slice of candied lemon or add chopped petals to a teaspoon of lemon zest as garnish.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 17

18 • JUNE/JULY 2019

By Lisa LaFontaine Bynum

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ire up the grill and light the fireworks.

Celebrating the 4th of July has never been tastier. Add some patriotic flair to your celebrations with these Independence Day-inspired dishes. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 19

20 • JUNE/JULY 2019

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 21

Red, White, and Blue Potato Salad Serves 6 1 pound small red potatoes 1 pound petite gold potatoes 1 pound petite purple potatoes 2 tablespoons olive oil Salt Pepper 1 cup mayonnaise 1 celery rib, finely diced 2 green onions, green parts only, diced 1 small clove of garlic, crushed 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar 2 hardboiled eggs, chopped

Patriotic Punch Serves 6 1 (64-ounce) bottle of white grape juice 6 medium fresh strawberries, sliced 1 cup fresh blueberries 2 large apples 2-3 cups lemon lime soda (or sparkling wine) Pour the white grape juice into a large pitcher.

Add the sliced strawberries and blueberries Cut the apples lengthwise into round slices. Cut the apple slices into stars using a 2-inch star shaped cookie cutter. Add the apples to the pitcher.

Top the pitcher with the lemon lime soda or sparkling wine. Stir.

Serve chilled over ice.

22 • JUNE/JULY 2019

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Quarter the potatoes, depending on the size. Spread them in a single layer on a foil lined baking sheet coated with cooking spray. Drizzle the potatoes with the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Stir to coat. Roast the potatoes until they are fork tender, about 20 minutes.

While the potatoes are roasting, combine the mayonnaise, celery, green onions, garlic, Dijon mustard, and vinegar in a large mixing bowl.

Add the potatoes to the bowl with the mayo mixture while the potatoes are still warm. Stir to coat.

Add the chopped eggs and stir again to combine.

Chill for 4-8 hours before serving.

Star-Spangled Fried Pies Makes 16 fried pies For the blueberry fried pies: 2 cups whole blueberries, fresh or frozen 1/2 tablespoon lemon juice 1/3 cup sugar 1 tablespoon cornstarch 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon For the strawberry fried pies: 2 cups hulled and crushed strawberries 3/4 cup granulated sugar 1 tablespoon cornstarch Dough for four pie crusts For the blueberry pies: Heat blueberries in a medium saucepan over medium heat until they start to release their juices, about 5-7 minutes Add the lemon juice.

Sift the sugar, cornstarch, and cinnamon together. Add the mixture to the berries and stir to combine.

Bring berries to a boil, stirring frequently. Reduce heat to low and cook until berries are soft and juice has thickened, about 2-3 minutes.

For the strawberry fried pies: Heat strawberries and sugar in a medium saucepan over medium heat until they start to release their juices, about 3-5 minutes.

Reduce heat to medium low.

Gradually whisk in the cornstarch.

Simmer the berries until the juices thicken, approximately 3-5 minutes.

To assemble the pies:

Add the pies to the hot oil a few at a time. Fry for two minutes on one side. Carefully flip the pies over and fry for an additional minute until the crust is golden brown.

Drain pies on paper towels.

Pies can be stored at room temperature for up to five days in an airtight container with waxed paper layered in between.

Roll out each pie crust until it is about 1/8-inch thick and 12-inches in diameter.

Using a 3-1/2-inch star-shaped cookie cutter, cut the dough into 32 star shapes.

Carefully spoon one tablespoon of blueberry filling into the center of 8 pie crust stars. Repeat with the strawberry filling.

Gently place the remaining pie crust stars over the top of the filling.

Dip the tines of a fork in flour and carefully seal all the edges of the pies. Place the pies in the refrigerator and chill for 30 minutes.

Heat 2-3 cups of vegetable oil in a large skillet. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 23

{ mississippi made }

Lamont Burns Tells Story of the South Through Food by susan marquez

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amont Burns is on a mission to tell the story of the South through food and of a culture that needs to be lifted. He is doing that through his unique line of marinade and barbeque sauce, although he says it’s not so much the product. “What’s more compelling is the story.”

Burns’ story begins in Gary, Indiana, where he was born.

He grew up in Jackson, Tennessee, and spent time with family in the Holly Springs area. “I had ancestors from Jackson, Tennessee, on down to Mississippi and into Arkansas. Many of my ancestors attended Rust College in Holly Springs in the 1930s and 1940s.”

After difficulty with keeping a job working for major corporations, Burns decided to draw on his history of cooking to open Lamont’s Authentic Southern Barbeque in Encinitas, California, in 1978. In 1987, his cookbook Down Home Southern Cooking was published by Doubleday.

As a child, Burns spent time in the kitchen with his mother and grandmother as they cooked.

He heard the stories of his great-grandmother, Lucinda Macklin, who cooked in plantation kitchens in the antebellum South. “The concepts behind the food served in those plantations didn’t come from the plantation kitchens. They came from the quarters behind the homes. It was there that herbs and spices that grew wild in the area were used to create tangy cooking sauces. Those cooks were

24 • JUNE/JULY 2019

Lamont Burns

pure genius. They created something from nothing and passed the concepts down, and that’s how it got to me. It’s a culinary journey that I want to take around the world.”

Burns’ products are a two-part system of flavoring meats.

“Meat is just fiber, texture, and protein. It wasn’t born with flavor. Meat has no flavor. I don’t care if you cook it, bake it, broil it, or grill it, you have to marinate meat to add flavor.”

Lamont’s Marinade is made using the concepts his greatgrandmother Lucinda passed down, with herbs and spices that give it a unique flavor. “I tell folks to marinate the meat overnight before cooking it and they’ll be delighted when they try it.” Burns describes his barbeque sauce as being more of a steak sauce. “It has a higher profile than a regular barbeque sauce. My sauce takes people on a culinary journey. When they taste it, it’s something they don’t expect.”

Burns took the recipe that had been passed down and further developed it with a food scientist who once worked for Kraft Foods. “It was important to me to make sure the product was not only delicious, but that it told a story. When you look at the label, you see a picture of the Montrose Plantation house in Holly Springs in the background. I’m in the front, as the brand ambassador. On the side are pictures of my ancestors, my mother, grandmother, and great-grandmother, and that tells the story of what they did as domestic cooks. Again, it takes consumers on a journey. It ties to Holly Springs. I believe entrepreneurs can develop great concepts from small rural towns. Lamont’s marinade and barbeque sauces are an example of that.”

The desire to create understanding through the palate instead of a political approach is strong for Burns, who has formulations for many more products including beverages, jellies and jams, sweet potato pies, and more. “I have a fascination with the history of American cooking from antebellum mansions. It’s a part of our African-American culinary traditions that has not been addressed. Just as Goya has done a great job of producing and marketing Latin American foods, I want Lamont’s brand to do the same for foods that come from the AfricanAmerican culture.”

Burns’ products can be purchased online through his website at www.lamontsbbq.com or on Amazon.

They are also sold in grocery stores throughout the South. “I love being the brand ambassador for my products,” Burns says. “I go to grocery stores on weekends, dressed in my costume, and I talk to customers. There’s a novelty to it that excites people and makes them listen to what I have to say. Mississippi has a lot of history, both negative and positive. I think the history of the African-American culinary journey is very positive, and I want to share it around the world.” edm Lamont’s BBQ www.lamontsbbq.com

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 25

{ chef's corner }

Jesse Houston Hangs His Chef's Hat in Jackson Once Again

H

story by paige mckay

ead chef at Jackson’s Fine & Dandy, Chef Jesse Houston has found himself back Jackson as Culinary Director for Miller Hospitality, but Houston wore many different chef ’s hats over the years before his talents brought him back to the capital city.

“I started off cooking when I was a teenager,” Houston said. “My parents divorced, and my dad’s cooking was terrible back then. Because I was living with my dad, I had to learn to cook to survive.”

Chef Houston joked that his dad’s cooking has gotten better since then, but at the time, he had to read cookbooks and watch the Cooking Channel to learn how to cook for himself. Upon graduating high school, Houston applied for culinary school and was accepted, but he couldn’t afford it at the time. Houston worked in local restaurants until he could afford school, and things took off from there.

“I wanted it more than anyone else in my class,” Houston said. “Staging at restaurants, volunteering at events, whatever it took.”

When he graduated from culinary school, Houston applied for his dream job working for his favorite chef in Dallas, Stephan Pyles, and he got the position. From there, Houston worked two jobs at once, one for Wolfgang Puck and, eventually, for other chefs. While working for Chef Pyles, Houston met Craig Noone, who eventually convinced Chef Houston to move to Mississippi and open Parlor Market.

“Together, we helped change the dining scene in Jackson,” Houston said.

When Noone passed away, Chef Houston was then put in the position of operating a restaurant, something he knew nothing about and had never done before. It ultimately didn’t work out in Houston’s favor, and he then went on to work for John Currence at City Grocery in Oxford. Houston’s stay in Oxford was brief, but he took away tons of knowledge from Chef Currence and decided to try to open his own restaurant.

“I did a lot of consulting while looking for financial partners to help open a restaurant concept I created while I was still in Oxford,” Houston said.

And thus, the Fondren hotspot Saltine was born. Chef Houston secured business partners and funding, they opened a successful seafood restaurant that earned several best new restaurant titles, and Chef Houston was even nominated for the James Beard Foundation Awards under Best Chef: South.

Eventually, Chef Houston parted ways with his business partners there and sold his portion of Saltine back to them.

After his stint at Saltine, Chef Houston found himself in Tulum, Mexico.

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Chef Jesse Houston “I made friends in Tulum after I did a guest chef stint there the previous year,” Houston said, “They asked me to come back and be their chef for the busy season.”

Throughout his travels that ultimately revolved around food, Chef Houston has had the opportunity to eat sushi in Japan that was prepared by a “sushi master,” and his bucket list now includes visiting other restaurants around the world, but for now, Mississippi is home base. What eventually brought Chef Houston back to Mississippi after years of traveling was his daughter, Cordie.

“I had a unique opportunity to be the Culinary Director for Miller Hospitality and open Fine & Dandy,” Houston said.

Open since 2017, Fine & Dandy specializes in burgers and “grandma chic” cuisine, which has helped Chef Houston dive into the foods of his past, those that his mom, grandmother, and great grandmother prepared while he was growing up.

Fine & Dandy is more than just burgers, and Chef Houston enjoys trying new things when it comes to his signature dishes.

“I always grow tired of seeing the same things over and over again,” he said. “Eventually, I take things off the menu, even if they are popular, and try something new.”

Deviled Eggs Yields: 12 eggs 12 eggs, boiled 8-1/2 tablespoons Duke’s mayonnaise 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon lemon juice 1-1/2 teaspoons Louisiana hot sauce 1/4 teaspoon turmeric 1 pinch ground clove 1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt 2 teaspoons pickle brine 1 teaspoon sugar

He’s created several tasty dishes over the years, and if he had to boil things down to a “greatest hits menu,” it would include dishes like Hot and Cold Foie Gras with Muscadine and Hazelnut; PB&J – pork belly with boiled peanuts and pepper jelly; chicken in waffle cones with slaw and spicy maple syrup; the Cap’n Crunk Milkshake with cereal, butterscotch, and Hennessy; The Fried Bologna Boa, Southern Style Ramen, Unagi Catfish, and the list goes on and on, he said.

Being that he enjoys creating new dishes, Chef Houston especially enjoys cooking with ingredients that he’s never cooked with before, but he always goes back to fresh oysters, celery, sunchokes, Meyer lemons, avocado leaf, and achiote as his favorite ingredients.

When he’s not at Fine & Dandy, Chef Houston enjoys being a homebody on his days off.

“I like relaxing, watching movies with my popcorn, Reese’s Pieces, and a huge Coke,” he said. “And being a father.”

In a large pot, boil eggs for about 10 minutes. Turn off the heat and allow to sit until cool.

Peel eggs and slice in half lengthwise. Remove the yolk and save the halved egg whites.

Pass the yolks through a mesh strainer until fine.

In a large mixing bowl, add strained egg yolks, mayonnaise, Dijon mustard, lemon juice, hot sauce, turmeric, clove, salt, pickle brine, and sugar. Stir until evenly mixed.

Using a star tip, pipe the yolk mixture into the hardboiled egg whites.

Chef recommends topping with smoked salmon caviar, crispy fried shallots, and dill fronds.

When he’s cooking at home, Chef Houston enjoys whipping up fresh pastas and ramen, Southern comfort food, and pancakes and waffles for his daughter. Chef Houston added that if he weren’t in the restaurant business for a living, he’d either be brewing beer, working in brand design, or creating “ridiculous” t-shirts.

For now, though, you can find Chef Houston at the District at Eastover whipping up gourmet burgers and outrageous milkshakes at Fine & Dandy. Chef Houston and the Miller Hospitality team are currently working on a new restaurant, Sophomore Spanish Club, which will allow Chef Houston to dive into his experiences from growing up eating Tex-Mex, working for Stephan Pyles, and living and cooking in Mexico.

And the best part, he says, is that he will be able to do all this while spending time and building memories with his daughter.

“I’m really excited for the future,” Chef Houston said. edm eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 27

Sam McCray, Farm and Partnership Organizer, and Don Green, Executive Director

28 • JUNE/JULY 2019

{ community }

Crossroads Farmers Market in Clarksdale Seeks to Educate, Employ, and Provide Healthy Foods to the Delta story and photography by paige mckay

O

rganized in 1971, the Mississippi Delta Council for Farm Workers Opportunities, Inc., based out of Clarksdale, was formed as a private, non-profit corporation to operate programs to assist migrant and seasonal farm workers in the Mississippi Delta. What started as an employment training agency has since grown into an organization that has partnerships with other several agencies around the state whose mission is to provide healthy foods to people across the state, especially in the Delta.

Executive Director Don Green and Farm and Partnership Organizer Sam McCray seek to educate local, migrant farmers on how to properly harvest fruits and veggies so that these farmers can increase their income and provide healthy food for the Delta and surrounding communities. One of the programs within the MDCFWOI is the Crossroads Farmers Market, a local market that started in 2013, where the local farmers can gather to sell their products.

“Our main mission has been to train these migrant workers,” Green said. “We discovered that a lot of these people had skills in planting and agriculture, and they wished to remain in agriculture.”

These trained farmers would spend their afternoons and weekends growing vegetables and other produce to increase their own income, as well as provide healthy food for the Delta community. With the Crossroads Farmers Market, these same farmers can bring their produce to a central location and sell their products to the community. The farmers market also offers an on-site cold storage for producers and vendors, a business resource center for small family and limited-resource farms, and community events that promote healthy food choices and local agriculture.

“We want to put food on the table that people can afford,” McCray said. “A lot of the population around here is the least healthy when it comes to diet and lifestyle, so we accept payment through cash, card, and EBT so that everyone is able to purchase healthy foods.”

Every Thursday through Saturday, May through October, local farmers head to the farmers market to sell their weekly produce. Whether it’s cucumbers, cantaloupe, or tomatoes, there are always fresh fruits and veggies for Delta residents to enjoy. These farmers have been professionally trained, the soil has been tested, and everything is USDA and GAAP certified to ensure maximum freshness and safety. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 29

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“We meet the same safety guidelines as any other food distributor,” McCray assured.

During market days, people from all over the Delta flock to the warehouse to stock up on their weekly produce.

This year, the Crossroads Farmers Market is introducing CSA (community supported agriculture) boxes that will be available for pre-order so that customers can walk up and grab what they need all at once.

“We are excited about the CSA boxes,” Green said. “It will be a little more work, but it will also be more beneficial for people to order on Friday or Saturday and come pick everything up at once.”

Crossroads Farmers Market also offers delivery of CSA boxes to customers around Clarksdale and within a 30-mile radius of the market.

Along with expanding the Crossroads Farmers Market, the MDCFWOI is also working on getting a commercial-grade kitchen so that producers can package their products and send them to people outside of the Delta.

“We want to create a demand for this food for places outside of the Delta and outside of Mississippi,” Green said. “With the kitchen, we can package food and send it off.”

Once the kitchen is built, it will be the first of its kind in the Delta, and Green has high hopes that they’ll meet their fundraising needs for the kitchen.

Along with the commercial kitchen, Crossroads Farmers Market hopes to become a major food hub for fresh produce in the Delta.

“It’s always a work in progress, but the farmers market is doing what we want it to do,” Green said. “It’s definitely expanding, and we want to become the hub for healthy foods.”

Green also added that he has big dreams for Crossroads Farmers Market and that it has been a blessing regarding healthy food initiatives. edm Crossroads Farmers Market 1536 Desoto Ave., Clarksdale www.crossroadsfarmersmarket.org

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 31

Shelby and Marlo Beason 32 • JUNE/JULY 2019

{ fresh from the farm }

Got Milk?

Beason Family Farm Does S

story and photography by paige mckay

ince 2012, Shelby and Marlo Beason have been hard at work 365 days a year, twice a day, tending to their herd of Jersey cows, milking them, and pasteurizing milk at their Philadelphia farm. Home to roughly 100 Jersey cows and an on-farm processing plant, the Beason Family Farm is producing nearly one thousand gallons of milk per week for local consumers and several restaurants and stores throughout the state.

“I have always farmed beef cattle and had a haying operation,” Shelby Beason said. “We were thinking about starting a dairy farm about two years before we started, and we’ve been doing it ever since.”

Every step of milk production is done on the grounds of the farm, making Beason Family Farm one of very few farms in the state that process milk from start to finish on their own farm.

“Doing everything on the farm gives consumers a better idea of farm-to-table, or grass-to-glass,” Marlo said. “We plant our own grass that the cows eat, the cows come to the back of barn to be milked, and the milk comes out the front of the barn in a milk jug.”

By pasteurizing and bottling their milk on-site, the Beasons are adding value to their milk by not sending it off to have it done elsewhere, thus, making it more consumer-

friendly. After Shelby and Marlo milk the cows each day, they pasteurize the milk in the very same barn in which the milk is sold. One thing that sets their milk apart from others, though, is that their milk is non-homogenized. Per Mississippi law, all milk must be pasteurized, which means the milk is heated to 145 degrees F for 30 minutes and then cooled down to sterilize the milk. Most mass-produced milk that’s found in stores is homogenized, but not this milk.

“This doesn’t have anything to do with the safety of the milk,” Shelby assures. “When milk is homogenized, it breaks down fat molecules and makes it harder for some people to digest. Ours is just a more natural product and the milk is sold as it comes.”

This means that the milk from Beason Family Farm has to be shaken before being used because the cream floats to the top, creating what people refer to as cream-line milk.

“The Jersey cows really make a difference in our milk, too,” Marlo added. “They might not produce as much volume-wise as others, but the quality is much better.”

Philadelphia locals are welcomed to visit the farm and pick up gallons or half-gallons of whole milk, chocolate milk, or buttermilk, and jugs of milk can also be found in several grocery stores across the state.

“We only sell about 10 percent of our milk here at the

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 33

Pasteurizing and milk storage equipment

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farm, and the rest goes out to stores and restaurants,” Shelby said.

Consumers can find Beason Family Farms milk on shelves at Vowell’s, Williams Brothers, and City Donuts in Philadelphia; Piggly Wiggly in Collinsville, Carthage, Sebastapol, and Union; Vowell’s in Louisville and Forest; Garner Farms in Starkville and Taylorsville; Cash Saver in Meridian; Attalla Frozen Foods in Kosciusko; Angela’s in Magee; Rainbow, both McDade’s locations, and Whole Foods in Jackson; Freshway Produce in Ridgeland; Cockrell’s Produce in Flowood; and RemingtonLott in Clinton and Gluckstadt.

Not only can customers buy milk by the gallons at local stores, but several restaurants throughout the state use Beason Family Farms milk daily.

“Mama Hamil’s in Madison is our largest customer,” Shelby said. “We deliver about 150 gallons to them per week.”

Other restaurants that use their milk include Taste & See and Penn’s in Philadelphia, Weidman’s in Meridian, Walker’s Drive-In and Parlor Market in Jackson, Local 463 in Ridgeland, Mocha Mugs in Brandon and Madison, Mary Lou’s Biscuit Bar in Louisville, Old Country Bakery in Brooksville, M7

Coffeehouse in Ridgeland, The Veranda, Bin 612, Restaurant Tyler, and City Bagel, all in Starkville.

While milk has been their main priority over the last seven year, the Beasons will soon start making ice cream with their milk.

“We will sell it at the farm first, see how it goes, then go to select farmers markets and stores with it,” Marlo said.

For now, keeping their milk production steady and their new ice cream endeavor are what the Beasons are focusing on.

Locals or tourists that might be passing through Philadelphia are welcome to stop by the farm store to pick up a gallon or two of milk, as well as Morgan Farms Beef, which is Marlo’s brother’s beef from his farm. Ice cream will also be available soon at Beason Family Farm. Keep up with the Beasons and learn more about their milk at beasonfamilyfarm.com. edm Beason Family Farm 10141 Road 1343, Philadelphia 601.416.2222 www.beasonfamilyfarm.com

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 35

Shaking It to the Extreme by paige mckay

I

n the hot summer months, nothing hits the spot quite like a rich, creamy, hand-spun milkshake from your favorite restaurant, whether it’s chocolate, strawberry, or mint chocolate chip. Recently, several places have taken their shakes to the next level, and the ice cream treats have

Mississippi Mud Shake The Yard, D’Iberville

The popular Gulf Shores milkshake bar that opened in 2017 has made its way to the Mississippi Gulf Coast, and they are serving up some of the craziest and most delicious milkshakes ever, some topped with whole pieces of cheesecake and whole cookies. Their Mississippi Mud Shake is a chocolate lover’s dream – brownie batter ice cream with a chocolate-iced jar dipped in pecans, topped with whipped cream, a brownie, pecans, marshmallow, and fudge drizzle. Guests can even take home the novelty jar after finishing the massive shake.

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been transformed into massive, extravagant shakes that can sometimes serve more than one person and come topped with outrageous toppings and candies. Here are some of our favorite extreme milkshakes from throughout our state. edm

Cap’n Crunk

Fine & Dandy, Jackson Known for their unique burgers and “grandma chic” cuisine, Fine & Dandy is also home to outrageous adult milkshakes and kidfriendly milkshakes, too.

One of their adult creations, the Cap’n Crunk, is a vanilla milkshake made complete with butterscotch, Hennessy, and Cap’n Crunch Cereal. There’s nothing else quite like it in town, and the shake also comes with the description of “baller status.” Try one for yourself to achieve baller status.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 37

Candy Shop

Ed’s Burger Joint, Hattiesburg This Hattiesburg burger joint is known for their massive, out-of-the-ordinary burger creations, but their milkshakes are just as extreme as their burgers.

With seasonal flavors like King Cake and Caramel Apple, Ed’s has become just as well-known for their Deluxe Shakes and Outrageous Shakes. Deluxe Shakes include flavors like Shipley’s Donut and Elvis ’77, but if you want something even bigger, opt for an Outrageous Shake like Candy Shop shake. This strawberry milkshake is topped with whipped cream, vanilla frosting, rainbow sprinkles, cotton candy, Nerds, Pixie Sticks, an Airhead Xtreme, and a rainbow lollipop.

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Why You So Salty

Dolce Bakeshop, Long Beach Located in Long Beach, Dolce Bakeshop is home to homemade macarons, beautiful cakes and cupcakes, and other snacks for those with a sweet tooth.

Their milkshakes are just as creative as their cakes, with flavors like the Cookie Monster, Candy Crush, and, one of their most popular flavors, Why You So Salty. This sweet-and-salty shake is a Dutch chocolate milkshake topped with pretzel sticks, crunch munch, peanut butter chocolate dipped pretzel, a peanut butter chocolate chip cupcake, homemade whipped cream, and chocolate syrup drizzle.

It’s the perfect dessert for those that love a sweet and salty combination.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 39

The Foster

Ice Cream Corner, Gulfport Located in Gulfport, the Ice Cream Corner specializes in wacky ice cream cones, massive waffle cones, ice cream nachos, and, of course, extreme milkshakes. Their signature milkshakes range from birthday cake shakes to chocolate, strawberry, and everything in between. The Foster signature shake is a salted caramel and bananas foster milkshake layered with whipped cream, caramel drizzle, a banana, and praline. It’s essentially two desserts blended into one and is the perfect treat on a hot summer day in Gulfport.

Xtreme Monster Milkshake Frutanas, Olive Branch

Frutanas in Olive Branch is serving up Mexican desserts, snacks, and ice cream, and that includes their Xtreme Monster Milkshakes.

Each Monster Milkshake is made with homemade ice cream with traditional Mexican flavors like Mexican chocolate and Chicle bubblegum pieces and are decorated with chocolate covered Mexican cake, Maria’s cookies, and other Mexican sweets. Frutanas Monster Milkshakes can be customized with one of the 18 different flavors to create a sweet, Mexican-style treat.

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The Runaway Bride

Shug’s Cookie Dough & Candy Bar, Laurel The Laurel sweet shop is known for their cookie cakes, edible cookie dough, and other sweet treats, and they are also no stranger to delicious milkshakes. Along with classic milkshakes, you can also find funky and outrageous shakes like their Runaway Bride milkshake. This treat is made up of a cookie dough milkshake topped with a birthday cake cookie and sugar rock candy.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 41

Biedenharn Coca-Cola Museum to Commemorate 125th Anniversary of First Bottled Coke story and photography by paige mckay

W

hen you think “Coca-Cola museum,” your mind might go straight to Atlanta. Actually, you don’t have to travel outside of our state to find a Coke museum after all. The Biedenharn Coca-Cola Museum, located in downtown Vicksburg, is filled with history and fun Coke artifacts that date back to the beginning of Coca-Cola. The small, but mighty, museum and gift shop is filled wall-to-wall with educational, yet fun, information and is a must-visit when passing through Vicksburg.

Built in 1890, the building that currently houses the Biedenharn Coca-Cola Museum in Vicksburg was the first place in the world to bottle the iconic soft drink, but it didn’t quite start out as a bottling business.

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At the time, Joseph Biedenharn had taken over his father’s confectionery business and had three candy stores in Vicksburg. He made and sold candy, cakes, and other sweet items, and he also had a soda fountain. Customers would come in and come up with hundreds of types of soda flavors, and Biedenharn even had his own flavor concoction that he would bottle for customers to enjoy in his store or they could take home a case. During this period, Coke was only found in soda fountains, so in order to enjoy a Coke, you had to be in a soda fountain, and you couldn’t take bottles of it home.

By 1894, Biedenharn had several customers asking why they couldn’t take home bottles of Coke, joking that it was better than his flavored soda that he would sell. Biedenharn had so

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 43

44 • JUNE/JULY 2019

many requests for Coke that he bottled a case of it in his own Bienedharn Candy Company bottles and sent it off to the headquarters in Atlanta to get permission to sell the soft drink.

The Coca-Cola Company approved Biedenharn’s request, thinking that it wouldn’t amount to much.

Coca-Cola couldn’t have been more wrong. Biedenharn’s Coca-Cola bottling business kept growing, and he eventually ended up with franchises in Louisiana and Texas by 1902.

This year, the very location of the bottling business is celebrating 125 years of bottling Coca-Cola in the same building. The Biedenharn family no longer owns the building, but it has since been turned into a museum for locals and tourists to enjoy and learn about the bottling process and the history of Coke and the Biedenharn family.

Upon walking into the museum, guests are greeted by wallto-wall Coke decorations including bottles and cans from all over the world, memorabilia, Coke-themed toys, and everything in between. And, of course, the old soda fountain is still intact, too.

As you walk through the museum, visitors can read and learn about the bottling process of Coke, the evolution of the bottles, how the bottles were washed, how the syrup and carbonated water were made, and how the bottles were packaged.

Past the equipment, visitors will find several display cases that include all kinds of Coke memorabilia, whether it’s wall decorations, posters, wall calendars, clocks, cups, serving trays, and everything in between. Coca-Cola is known for their advertising, and several different print ads from over the years can be found hanging on the walls.

Once you come out of the museum section and you’re back to the entrance, the walls are filled with more of the CocaCola collection items, such as bottles and cans from over the years and from different countries. This is where the gift shop

is located, too, where visitors will also find years-old cases of Coke and other fun items that are available for purchase.

Though the museum is a small operation, different schools will often times visit on field trips and end their day with a classic Coke float in the courtyard in the back, and visitors have been known to come from all over to the visit the museum – some from as far away as France and Australia.

Now in the hands of the Vicksburg Foundation of Historic Preservation, they are planning a 125-year celebration for the Biedenharn Coca-Cola Museum this summer, and locals, as well as out-of-towners, are welcomed and encouraged to attend. edm Biedenharn Coca-Cola Museum 1107 Washington St., Vicksburg 601.638.6514 www.biedenharncoca-colamuseum.com

Joseph Biedenharn eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 45

{ from mississippi to beyond }

Chef Alexis Jones Nourishes the Nation

F

By Kathy K. Martin

or the first time in over 15 years, Chef Alexis Jones doesn’t have to work nights and weekends. As the new chef and production manager for Nourish Foods in Birmingham, Ala., she now develops recipes for healthy, fresh, and fully-prepared meals that are shipped directly to customers all over the country.

Nourish was founded by two Southern chefs, Mary Drennen and Tiffany Vickers Davis, to provide delicious meals for busy people who are looking for healthy options shipped directly to their door. They were grateful to add Jones to their team and appreciate her many ideas and special dishes such as

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her homemade noodles.

“Now, my busiest days are Mondays and Thursdays when we ship to our customers,” says the Madison native. Her mother and brother still live in Mississippi, and she visits at least once a month, calling them her harshest critics when it comes to her recipes.

Jones began her career path to food when she worked at a restaurant in Oxford while attending Ole Miss. She began as a server at Buffalo Café, which is now closed, but quickly moved into the kitchen. After she graduated in 2007 with a degree in hospitality management, she managed a hotel in Washington, DC, and then began cooking again as well. This motivated her to continue her education, and she began the applied science accelerated graduate program at the College of Culinary Arts at Kendall College in Chicago, Ill. After graduating, she landed in Little Rock, Ark., where she worked at the restaurant in the Capitol Hotel until she decided to open her own restaurant, which she named Natchez. “My mom is from Natchez, and I just always loved the name.”

She started ambitiously by changing the menu twice a day and posting her creations on a big chalkboard wall in the restaurant. As more and more work needed to be done to the building, she decided to move on and leave Little Rock for Birmingham, where she has been for the past two years.

During that time, she married Rob Hendrich and began her job with Nourish in December. She enjoys the normal working hours and getting back to her love of creating new menus each week. “I was used to going for that perfect bite and perfect plating as a restaurant chef, but now I get the challenge of creating outside of that box.” She also creates menu items for Nourish while thinking about nutritional value, packaging, and the food’s ability to be heated in a microwave oven or baked in an oven after shipment. In addition to all of the

ideas in her chef ’s back pocket, she also comes up with menus as she strolls through the farmer’s market or visits with her fish vendor. Several of her recipes include pickled shrimp over crispy green tomatoes, sorghum mustard chicken with squash casserole, and spicy honey pork chop with sautéed kale and pimento cheese gratin.

While Birmingham is now her second home, Jones misses Mississippi and its clear dominance as a food state, she says. “Where else will you find 100-year-old restaurants and cultural mainstays such as the Mayflower that just transport me back?” The farm-to-table concept may still be a trend sweeping the country, but she believes that Mississippi always did food this way.

When she’s cooking at home, Jones likes to cook about three different meats for meals throughout the rest of the week. She might spend one entire evening roasting a chicken while also braising oxtail and prepping food for her husband’s lunch the next day.

Jones is showing the country that Nourish’s healthy food delivered to the customer’s front door can also be inventive, tasty, and nourishing. edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 47

Sorghum Mustard Chicken 4 (6-ounce) skinless, boneless chicken breasts 1 tablespoon kosher salt 1/2 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper 1 ounce grapeseed oil Sorghum Mustard Sauce (recipe follows) Season chicken breast with kosher salt and pepper.

Heat pan over high heat. Add the oil to pan and sear chicken with rib side down. Cook until golden brown and then flip. Add to oven, and cook until chicken registers 145150 degrees F (5-10 minutes). Add sorghum mustard sauce to pan. Spoon over chicken. Serve immediately with grits and squash casserole.

Sorghum Mustard Sauce 1 cup chicken stock 1/2 cup grainy mustard 1/2 cup sorghum or sorghum molasses

Pickled Shrimp Over Crispy Green Tomatoes And spinach 3 cups water 2 cups white wine 1 pound medium shrimp, peeled 2 cups grapeseed oil 1/2 cup lemon juice 1/2 cup thinly sliced fennel 1/2 cup thinly sliced leeks 1/2 cup small diced bell pepper 2 tablespoons kosher salt 2 tablespoons mustard seed 2 tablespoons red chili flakes 2 bay leaves Bring water and white wine to a boil. Add shrimp and reduce heat to low. Cook just until shrimp are pink (1-2 minutes). Cover with remaining ingredients, making sure shrimp are submerged in oil/lemon juice. Chill overnight before serving.

Cornmeal-crusted green tomatoes 1 cup yellow cornmeal 1 cup cornstarch 3 tablespoons kosher salt Green tomatoes, sliced about 1/4-inch thick, discard ends 1/2 cup grapeseed oil Blend cornmeal, cornstarch, and kosher salt. Salt tomatoes and let sit for 10 minutes to drain out moisture.

Coat with cornmeal/cornstarch mixture. In a large skillet, pour enough oil to coat the bottom and heat over medium heat. Fry tomatoes in batches until browned, then flip and fry them on the other side. Remove tomatoes and let drain on paper towel. Salt and serve over spinach with pickled shrimp and vegetables.

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Reduce chicken stock by half. Whisk in mustard and sorghum.

Grits 2 cups water 1 cup milk 1 cup stone-ground grits 1/3 cup heavy cream 3 ounces Parmesan cheese Kosher salt, to taste Black pepper, to taste Heat water and milk in a heavy-bottomed saucepan until simmering. Add grits, stirring often until grits have thickened and are tender to the bite. Add additional milk or water if needed. Grits should be finished cooking in 30 minutes. Add heavy cream and Parmesan cheese. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Remove from heat, and let rest until ready to serve.

Yellow Squash Casserole 1 small onion, diced 4 cups small diced yellow squash 1 tablespoon kosher salt 1 tablespoon black pepper 1 ounce fresh thyme 1/2 cup heavy cream 1/2 cup Parmesan cheese Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Place onion in large skillet or pot, and cook until caramelized, about 15 minutes. Add squash to pan. Season with kosher salt and black pepper. Cook until soft. Add thyme, heavy cream, and Parmesan cheese. Transfer to baking dish and cook, uncovered, for 20-30 minutes until lightly browned.

Spicy Honey Pork Chop With Pimento Cheese Gratin 4 pork chops (5-ounce bone-in or boneless) 1 tablespoon kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper Spicy Honey Sauce, recipe follows Season pork chops with salt and pepper. Heat pan over medium heat and add oil. Sear pork chop until golden brown. Flip and add spicy honey sauce to pan. Finish cooking in oven until internal temperature reaches 145150 degrees F.

spicy honey sauce 2 tablespoons Aleppo pepper 1 ounce grapeseed oil 2 ounces honey 1 ounce chicken stock 2 tablespoons red chili flakes 1 tablespoon smoked paprika 1/3 cup heavy cream Stir all ingredients together.

Recipes courtesy of Chef Alexis Jones

Pimento Cheese Gratin 4 ounces mascarpone cheese 4 ounces cheddar cheese 2 ounces roasted red pepper, diced 3 pounds of russet potatoes, very thinly sliced on mandoline 2 cups heavy cream, divided Salt and pepper, to taste Mix mascarpone cheese, cheddar cheese, and roasted red pepper together. Arrange potato slices in buttered dish, in shingles, until bottom dish is covered. Add 1/2 cup heavy cream, salt, and pepper. Continue with another layer of potatoes. Season with salt and pepper. Add 1/2 cup heavy cream and half of the cheese mixture. Add another layer of potatoes and pour remaining heavy cream and cheese mixture over top. Bake in oven, covered, at 350 degrees F for 30-40 minutes. Uncover and continue to bake until golden brown.

Sauteed kale 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil or grapeseed oil 3 cloves garlic, sliced or minced 1 large bunch of kale, de-stemmed and chopped Kosher salt Black pepper Heat olive oil in a large sautĂŠ pan set over medium heat.

Add garlic and cook until soft. Add kale to the pan. Stir the kale, tossing in oil, and cook until soft and wilted. Season with salt and pepper.

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Brian Ducharme 50 • JUNE/JULY 2019

Cajun Smoker

Boudin Business Is Booming on Gulf Coast

B

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY JULIAN BRUNT

rian Ducharme is passionate about his smokehouse.

Well, it isn’t exactly an old-time smokehouse; it’s a stainless-steel commercial smoker built into a professional kitchen, but that doesn’t diminish his passion for what he and his wife, Shayla, do for a living. It’s only been a few years ago that both gave up their full-time jobs to dedicate their time to being smokehouse masters. And a full-time endeavor it is.

Ducharme got his start making beef jerky and has been amazingly successful at it. Successful enough that it is very difficult to keep up with demand and good enough to win the 2018 ChiChi Miguel BBQ Throwdown held by Emeril Lagasse Foundation. So, if you are that successful making smoked jerky, why in the world would you want to venture further afield?

If you were to meet him, you’d already know the answer to that question. Ducharme has a high energy level, a ready smile, is a good story teller, and keeps no secrets about what and how he cooks and smokes. Chances are that if you are talking to him, you are talking about smoking jerky, ribs, Boston butts, and, now, boudin.

Smoked boudin? you might ask. If you are a South Louisiana traditionalist, you are probably turning your nose up at the very thought, but, my friend, you’d be making a mistake. Ducharme’s father was born and raised in Opelousas, Louisiana, the heart of boudin country, so it’s a tradition he grew up with. He also has a passion for getting things right and goes about creating recipes in a rather scientific way: making notes, comparing, measuring, and describing every step. If something isn’t exactly how he wants it, it’s back to the drawing board.

Boudin came to south Louisiana from France, where it was a blood sausage. Who knows how many hands changed that recipe over the years until it became what we recognize

today as Cajun boudin, but it took generations. Ducharme uses natural hog casings, smokes his own Boston butts as the main ingredient, uses the Cajun Trinity (onion, bell pepper, and celery), a few special seasonings that he makes himself, sugar, chicken liver, and rice. However, the smoking process is what makes the difference.

The basic boudin recipe is solid. I am sure he could market and sell boudin boiled as most makers do, but the smoking adds just a hint of wood smoke and is surprisingly light. A heavy smoke would not do at all. Smoking presents a different texture as well, not quite as firm, and it works well. Ducharme also uses whole logs in the smoking, not dust or chips. He describes his technique as “cooking like grandma did,” but he also adds, “It brings me joy to make boudin.”

I tried the smoked boudin and liked it very much, and the pepper jack boudin balls were an absolute delight. The smoked jerky was chewy, but not overly so, and delicious. He also makes a variety of seasonings, including a hot sauce, BBQ sauce, a marinade, and two rubs.

It would be hard to meet Ducharme and not notice the passion he has for what he does, but he also likes to keep things simple. He told me that all the ingredients he uses he found in his pantry. “Cayenne, garlic, and brown sugar make the world go ‘round in the South,” he says.

Check out his YouTube channel and Facebook page. His smoked jerky is widely available, but, the boudin can be found at the Marathon gas station where his kitchen is located and at select festivals. edm

Smoked Boudin

Pepper Jack Boudin Balls

Smokehouse Bayou

6905 Washington Ave. Suite E, Ocean Springs 228.219.0805 www.smokehousebayou.com

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 51

{ from the bookshelf }

Julia Reed's New Orleans Food, Fun, and Field Trips for Letting the Good Times Roll

By Julia Reed  Photography by Paul Costello Published by Rizzoli USA

by PAIGE MCKAY

O

riginally from the Delta town of Greenville, Julia Reed is a consummate hostess and lifestyle expert and, in her newest cookbook, she shares her favorite New Orleans recipes and ways to create parties that highlight the city’s hospitality. If you’re looking to throw a Creole or Cajuninspired party this summer, Julia Reed’s New Orleans: Food, Fun, and Field Trips for Letting the Good Times Roll, a follow-up to her best-seller Julia Reed’s South, is the perfect place to find any and all recipes and tips to pull off the perfect event. Each chapter in the book is themed around certain events or popular trends within the Cajun city, and the pages are chock-full of fun stories and bright images.

The book kicks off with a Cajun and Southern classic: crawfish. The first chapter, “A ‘Festival’ of Strawberries and Crawfish,” includes, as described, strawberry and crawfishcentered dishes. During the month of April, Louisiana hosts two of the biggest events of the year, the Ponchatoula Strawberry Festival and the Breaux Bridge Crawfish Boil, so it’s only fitting that the cookbook starts with these Louisiana favorites.

The “Restaurant Tribute” chapter pays homage to the city’s great temples of Creole cuisine – Antoine’s, Arnaud’s, and Galatoire’s – each located in the French Quarter. Reed gives a short synopsis on each restaurant before sharing a menu that includes items like Crawfish Cardinale Tarts, Judy’s Fried Eggplant with Galatoire’s Table Sauce, Crabmeat Ravigote, Shrimp in White Remoulade, and Meringue Shells with Coffee Ice Cream & Orange-Chocolate Sauce.

Reed also highlights the New Orleans staple, gumbo, with a “Gumbo Lunch” menu. Included is an entire menu of dishes that pair perfectly with a hearty bowl of gumbo.

Recipes include Ramos Gin Fizz as a starter cocktail, Cheese Thumbprint Wafers with Hot Pepper Jelly, Potato Salad, and Rum Pecan Pie with Whipped Cream to finish it off.

52 • JUNE/JULY 2019

A unique section, “Aioli Dinner,” highlights what’s called a grand aioli, which is described as a virtual symbol of French Provençal cuisine that’s celebratory and extravagant, but also easy. It includes fresh ingredients and is accompanied by a garlicky mayonnaise for dipping. Everything is meant to be eaten with your hands, so this platter encourages intimacy and camaraderie around the table. This specific Grand Aioli platter includes shrimp, redfish, cooked blue crab claws, fingerling potatoes, green beans, boiled eggs, and radishes, and is served with sides of Basic Aioli, Lime Sriracha Aioli, and Saffron Aioli for dipping.

The word reveillon, translated from French, means awakening or arousal. Back in the day in New Orleans, reveillon repasts were named this since they were served well after midnight. Reed explains, “On Christmas Eve, the predominately Catholic population would return home from midnight mass famished and sit down to an especially generous, multi-course spread that includes breakfast dishes and breads, but also turtle soup, oysters, grillades of veal, and some sort of game, along sweets, wines, and cordials,” so that’s exactly what Reed highlights with her Reveillon menu. It begins with a French 75 and includes Tartlets of Oysters in Fennel Cream, Crab Cakes with Meaux Mustard Beurre Blanc, and Beth’s Banana Tart Tatin with Brown Sugar Rum Ice Cream, to name a few.

No Louisiana or New Orleans-themed cookbook would be complete without Mardi Gras-inspired items, so Reed is sure to include a Mardi Gras menu that will get the good times rolling. This colorful menu starts with Milk Punch and includes other favorites like Buttermilk Biscuits with Ham & Blackberry Preserves, Baked Garlic Cheese Grits Casserole, Grapefruit & Avocado Salad, and, of course, the perfect King Cake recipe for dessert.

Whether you’re hosting a party or are just craving the taste of the Louisiana city, Julia Reed’s New Orleans provides authentic, New Orleans recipes with step-by-step guidance and tips on how to make it the best it can be. Though it’s fun to travel to the Big Easy, this book can help you taste the cuisine of the city in your own home. edm

The Best Berry Cobbler from Julia Reed’s New Orleans

Serves 8 4 cups strawberries, halved 2 cups raspberries 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed orange juice 1/3 cup plus 1-1/2 tablespoons sugar 2 tablespoons plus 1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour Scant 1/2 teaspoon salt 2-1/4 teaspoons baking powder 2 teaspoons grated orange zest 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 12 pieces 3/4 cup heavy cream Ice cream or whipped cream Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. In a large bowl, toss the berries with the orange juice, 1/3 cup of the sugar, and 2 tablespoons of the flour and

set aside.

In a large bowl, mix together the remaining 1-1/2 cups flour, the salt, the remaining 1-1/2 tablespoons sugar, the baking powder, and the orange zest. Cut in the butter with two forks or a pastry blender until the mixture looks like coarse cornmeal. (I usually end up using my hands, but you can also use a food processor.)

Add the cream and mix until the mixture is just moistened and comes together. Shape the dough into patties, about 2 inches in diameter and 1/2 inch thick.

Put the berry mixture in a 1-1/2- or 2-quart gratin or baking dish. Arrange the dough patties on top of the berries. Bake for 45 minutes until the patties are brown and the berry juice bubbles around them.

Let cool slightly and serve straight from the dish accompanied by ice cream or whipped cream.

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{ raise your glass }

Orange Rum Gimlet Serves 1 For the rum: 2 large navel oranges or 4or 5 satsumas 1 bottle (750 ml) white rum For the cocktail: 4 ounces strained rum 2 ounces freshly-squeezed lime juice 1 ounce Cointreau (you may also use Grand Marnier or triple sec, but I much prefer Cointreau) 1 ounce simple syrup 1 orange or satsuma slice for garnish Slice the oranges or satsumas (if using oranges, cut the slices in half again) and place in a pitcher or pot large enough to hold both the slices and the rum. Pour in the rum, cover, and let stand overnight. Strain.

Pour the rum, lime juice, Cointreau, and simple syrup into a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Shake and pour into a small glass. Cut the orange or satsuma slice in half and add as a garnish.

54 • JUNE/JULY 2019

Recipe from Julia Reed’s New Orleans Photography by Paul Costello Published by Rizzoli USA

•

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eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 55

{ where to eat }

DT Grinders 1600 24th Ave., Meridian • 601.286.5741 • www.dtgrinders.com

story by richelle putnam  photos courtesy of dt grinders

W

hen Tom Brown wanted something growing up, his dad told him to get a job. So, he did…in the restaurant business.

“I started cooking from there and learned how to make different things and enjoy good food,” said Brown. “If I wanted something, I’d cook it.”

From there, he worked his way into managing restaurants and hotels and then veered into the businesses of construction and real estate, little knowing how these roles would later play out in his life. You see, in 2017, he and his wife, Ashley, decided to buy, renovate, and re-open DT Grinders, a oncepopular restaurant located in a majestic 100-year-old, threestory house in Meridian.

“We bought this place because she wanted to buy the restaurant and remodel it,” said Brown.

Ashley, born and raised in Meridian, is also the owner of Stitchin’ Krazy, an embroidery business in downtown Meridian.

The couple blended their skills, knowledge, creativity, and entrepreneurial backgrounds, and, well, let’s just say that taking

56 • JUNE/JULY 2019

on a major renovation/reopening project might have been a bit easier for the Browns.

They opened the doors February 1, 2018. Although many call DT Grinders a fine dining restaurant, Brown doesn’t. “It has good food, but it’s meant to be a comfortable atmosphere.

It doesn’t matter if you’re out of Lowe’s flower department or an office with your suit on; it’s just for everybody to come and sit down for a fine dining experience. It’s made to do that, but we also have the nightlife with the bar with music and other things.”

An innovator of cuisine, Brown loves the creativity, the challenge, and the discoveries of how seasonings blend, how ingredients mix, and how dishes react. However, he doesn’t classify himself as a chef, although all the recipes are his.

“I’ve always cooked; I’ve always liked it, but I’ve never gone to school for a chef status,” he said, without a hint of regret.

Nevertheless, the challenge was that Brown never measured anything, “it was hard putting it on paper, so when we got [the restaurant] it could be done again and again. If you’re going to

What a Crock - Classic French Soup Forrest Gump with Firecrackers - Fried jumbo Gulf shrimp served with firecracker sauce on a bed of lettuce Ribeye Steak with Baked Potato

open a number two and number three, they have to recreate what you do.”

DT Grinders offers a mixed cuisine, with everything from pasta to all kinds of seafood and steak. “Our beef is second to none, 100% certified Angus beef, wet-aged 21 days, and we don’t back off of that.”

Seafood comes from the Mississippi Gulf Coast, and the sea bass and salmon are flown in. The top two menu items are the steaks and redfish, and Brown said they have been since the day they opened. What sets the steaks apart from the competition is the Angus meat, the marbling, and being hand-cut and cooked over an open flame with Brown’s special “secret” seasoning.

“Our redfish is pan-seared with crawfish Julie on top. Now, you have options to pick different sides, from our Cowboy caviar (baked beans) to a loaded baked potato,” Brown said.

There are a ton of desserts, but you won’t see them on the menu, according to Brown. “Whatever we have is presented tableside, so you can actually look at it versus just seeing it on a menu to pick and choose.” Desserts vary from cheesecakes to Boston Cream Pie to velvet cakes, cream cakes, and bread pudding. “It’s a combination of, I cook my desserts and if somebody can beat it and make it better than me, then I’ll go ahead and buy it from them. All our stuff is hand done, hand prepped; it’s not open bag and serve. We

don’t have any of that.”

Grinders works with local food producers as much as possible, but it depends what they have and whether or not they can meet the supply. Brown said connecting can be hard because everyone is running a business, but they try to do local and stay local.

Tom often spends the entire time in the kitchen while Ashley oversees the bar upstairs. Grinders’ signature drinks have been customer tried, tasted, and accepted. “When the eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 57

customers really, really like one, it goes onto the menu. If we restaurant and the Browns as the decision makers. bring in a craft beer and they don’t like it, we don’t bring it “We ask our customers all the time, what do you like, what back.” do you not like, what would you change? You take everybody’s Clearly, the customers decide the menu. “I could make what comments and put them all together and look at the numbers I wanted, but they may never eat it, so it wouldn’t matter what I and cater to your market.” put on the menu,” said Brown. If customers like the specialties, DT Grinders is a little off the beaten path, and Meridian is “we’ll possibly put it on the menu.” a transition town with hotels, food chains, and people driving And at Grinders, there’s only one menu, so all fine cuisine past on the interstate. Instead of stopping at a chain restaurant and drinks can be enjoyed throughout the historic home, you can find off any major exit, Brown recommends coming whether downstairs in a relaxed dining room environment, or on into Meridian and eating local. “It’s worth the few extra upstairs in a cozy, dimly lit lounge environment with live and minutes off the freeway. Come relax, take a break, and then get background music, or outside on the deck under the stars. back on the road.” edm Service is a casual, have fun, everybody helps each other service. “It’s not my table, my section. It’s our restaurant, our customers, and we are going to take care of you service. It is more of a family atmosphere and small-town effect because everyone knows each other.”

Brown explains, however, that this same hometown atmosphere may not work in places like Houston. The basis stays the same, but you must cater to the local population, even when it comes to menu items. “If [menu items] aren’t selling, the people are saying they don’t like it.”

The strategic plan is to open this restaurant, get it going, and then take the concept somewhere else in Salted Chocolate Chip Skillet Cookie different towns, different cities, said Brown. “That’s the plan, and you have to have a plan on where you’re going so you can make it there.”

Regardless of where the current Grinders is and where the future ones might be, the community will decide what will be served.

To determine this, Brown sticks to the numbers, what is selling, what is not selling.

He evaluates his customer base and by evaluating his customer base, he stays in touch with their needs and wants. This drives the success of DT Grinders as a Raspberry Cheesecake 58 • JUNE/JULY 2019

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60 • JUNE/JULY 2019

{ featured festival}

Main Street Corinth Presents 32nd Annual Slugburger Festival story By paige mckay | photos by angela avent

T

he 32nd annual Slugburger Festival is set for the weekend of July 11th-13th in downtown Corinth on Fillmore Street. Complete with a carnival and live entertainment, the Slugburger Festival is sure to be a great time for locals and tourists of all ages.

The weekend kicks off Thursday night with the opening of the carnival. Carnival rides and attractions will be located uptown at the clock tower parking lot, which is next to where the rest of the weekend festivities will take place. The carnival will run Thursday, Friday, and Saturday.

On Friday, head to Fillmore Street and grab your seat for Corinth’s version of The Voice, a singing competition that’s a crowd-favorite each year. After The Voice, stick around to enjoy the sounds of 90s country from The Mustache Band.

Both events will be held at the CARE Garden on Fillmore.

During the day Saturday, make your way to the Corinth Coliseum for the Miss Slugburger pageant to see who will be crowned 2019’s Miss Slugburger. After the pageant, other events include a corn hole tournament and a slugburger eating competition, and, of course, the carnival will be going on all day for all ages to enjoy. Participants in the corn hole tournament can register the day of the event. Registration is $20 per team and begins at 11:30 a.m., and bags start flying at 1 p.m.

First place in corn hole will receive $100, and second place takes home $50. Saturday night, several different bands will take the stage starting at 6 p.m. and will be ongoing through midnight.

Throughout each day, several food and drink vendors will be available to satisfy any cravings, but the star of the show will, of course, be the Slugburger. T-shirts will be available for purchase at carnival and

entertainment sites, but the amount is limited, so be sure to get yours early at the Corinth Tourism and Alliances offices before the big weekend.

Whether you’re a Corinth local or a tourist, the Slugburger Festival provides weekend fun for all ages. Make plans to attend this year’s festival and get your fill of slugburgers and family fun. For more information, visit www.facebook.com/ slugburgerfestival, or email corinthmainstreet@gmail.com. edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 61

Food Festivals & Events June 8th

Poplarville Blueberry Jubilee Join the city of Poplarville for the annual Blueberry Jubilee on June 8. The Blueberry Jubilee is held the second weekend in June every year to promote blueberries and Pearl River County, and it features arts and crafts, storytelling, live entertainment, lots of delicious food, and down-home Southern hospitality. Friday night includes live music, while Saturday is full of events from a 5K, more music, food vendors, and the arts and crafts show. For more information, visit www.blueberryjubilee.org.

•••

June 22nd

Washington, D.C. Mississippi on the Mall Hosted each year by The Mississippi Society of Washington, D.C., this event offers fried catfish, drinks, fellowship, live music, and more at the northeast corner of the Lincoln Memorial. For more information, visit www. themississippisociety.org.

•••

June 15th

Hattiesburg Craft Beer Festival The 7th Annual Hattiesburg Craft Beer Festival is sponsored by the Historic Hattiesburg Downtown Association. This event is held at the Historic Train Depot in Downtown Hattiesburg and takes place during FestivalSouth, Mississippi’s only multi-week, multi-genre arts festival. The festival showcases the art and artists behind craft beer with the purpose of supporting and expanding the ever-growing craft beer movement in Mississippi. For more information, visit www. hattiesburgcraftbeerfest.com.

62 • JUNE/JULY 2019

July 4-6th

Bay St. Louis Our Lady of the Gulf Crab Fest The Our Lady of the Gulf Crab Fest features incomparable food, live music, arts and crafts booths, rides, raffles, crab races, and much more. Food items include boiled crab and shrimp, shrimp and catfish po-boys, gumbo, crab-stuffed potatoes, biscuits, and more. For more information, call 228-467-6509 or visit www.olgchurch.net.

June 29th

Crystal Springs Tomato Festival The Crystal Springs Tomato Festival kicks off annually on the last Saturday in June with a kiddie parade that includes bicycles, tricycles, scooters, and wagons decorated in red to honor the tomato. Centered around the railroad tracks, the event features plenty of arts and crafts and typical festival food, plus plenty of tomato-related food including fried green tomatoes and BLT sandwiches. The event also includes a 5K run/walk and 1 mile fun run and Tomato Queen contest. For more information, visit www.cityofcrystalsprings.com or call 601-892-2526.

July 13th

Jackson Zoo Ice Cream Safari The 24th annual Ice Cream Safari is set for Saturday, July 13th, at the Jackson Zoo. Head downtown to the zoo for the day for ice cream, water activities, animals, family, and fun, all raising money for the Jackson Zoo animals. Local celebrity scoopers vie for your votes as Best Scooper, and guests get to vote on their favorite ice cream flavor. For ticket pricing and more information, visit www.jacksonzoo.org/event/23rd-annual-icecream-safari/.

•••

•••

July 19-20th

July 11-13th

Corinth - Slugburger Festival Highlights of the annual Slugburger Festival include a slugburger eating contest, live entertainment, green market, and more. For more information, call 662-287-1550 or visit www. facebook.com/slugburgerfestival.

Mize Mississippi Watermelon Festival Enjoy two full days of music, fun, arts and crafts, and all the free watermelon you care to eat. The festival will feature a 5K run and a great car and truck show hosted by the Smith County Cruisers. Be sure to join in the fun of the watermelon eating contest, the seed spitting contest, and don’t miss the biggest watermelon contest. For more information, call 601-733-5647 or visit www.mswatermelonfestival.com.

To have your food festival or culinary event included in future issues, please contact us at info@eatdrinkmississippi.com. All submissions are subject to editor’s approval. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 63

Recipe Index Best Berry Cobbler, 53 Catfish Croquettes, 15 Cornmeal-Crusted Green Tomatoes, 48 Deviled Eggs, 27 Grits, 48 Lemon Glaze, 17 Lemon Rose Shortbread Cookies, 17 Orange Rum Gimlet, 54 Patriotic Punch, 22 Pickled Shrimp, 48 Pimento Cheese Gratin, 49 Red, White, and Blue Potato Salad, 22 Sauteed Kale, 49 Sorghum Mustard Chicken, 48 Sorghum Mustard Sauce, 48 Spicy Honey Pork Chop, 49 Star-Spangled Fried Pies, 23 Yellow Squash Casserole, 49

Advertisers Index Bin 612, 55 BlueCross BlueShield of Mississippi, 14 Corinth, 3 Crazy Cat Eat Up, 55 Harvest Grill, 55 McEwen’s, 55 Mississippi Food Network, 65 Mississippi Children’s Museum, Back Cover Mistletoe Marketplace, 2 Philadelphia, 7 Sal and Mookie’s, 7 Spoonfudge, 3 The Kitchen Table, 7 Visit Jackson, 4 & 5 The Yard, 11

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DID YOU

KNOW?

• Almost 1 in 4 Mississippians — about 690,000 people — don’t have enough to eat.

• More than 1 in 4 children (28.7%) go to bed hungry most every night.

Stomachs are growling all over the state. Hunger is a problem all across America, but in Mississippi, it’s practically an epidemic.

DONATE NOW! Every $1.00 donated provides seven meals to hungry Mississippians.

www.msfoodnet.org

Digital Subscriptions Available!

Perfectly Patriotic Treats

June/July 2019

On desktop computer, visit www.magzter.com and search for Eat Drink Mississippi or visit www.eatdrinkmississippi.com for a direct link.

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MISSISSIPPI

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Download the free Eat Drink Mississippi app to purchase and view in app.

7 Extreme Milkshakes | Community Farmers Market | Corinth’s Slugburger Festival

VOLUME 8, NUMBER 4

Access issues on all your devices - iOS, Android, and desktop computer.

biedenharn coca-cola museum to commemorate 125th anniversary of first bottled coke

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

Getting a taste of Mississippi has never been easier! eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 65

Till We Eat Again

BILL DABNEY PHOTOGRAPHY

Jay Reed, a graduate of Ole Miss, lives in Starkville where he is a pharmacist by day and a freelance food writer by day off. He is a member of the Southern Foodways Alliance and writes "Eats One Ate," a weekly column in the Starkville Daily News.

JUNE/JULY 2019 2019 66 • JUNE/JULY

Everything’s Better With Cheese

A

BY JAY REED

re you a turophile? That’s my new word this month. I have taken on the challenge of looking up words I don’t recognize as I read, and I came across this one when reading the story of an artisan cheese-maker in Tennessee.

There, I gave it away: a turophile is a cheese lover.

I’ve been a turophile for many years ― my earliest memory being simple cheese toast: a slice of American cheese (always) that practically covered the entire top of the bread. I also remember ― only occasionally, like sugared cereal ― getting cans of Easy Cheese and spraying (is that the right verb?) a curlicue of cheesy goodness on a saltine. “Cheesy” is the operative word here, as in, “it may not actually have any cheese in it, but it’s cheese-like.” Actually, I preferred the Squeez-a-Snak which came in a tube with a plastic circle attached to one side, from which a similar curlicue would emerge upon squeezing.

We were also a grilled cheese family, though, for some reason, we called it “toasted cheese.” It was just the basics for us ― white loaf bread, Kraft American cheese (cut with a slicer from the block - not the singles), and butter in the skillet. I’ll never forget when my Granny, out of nowhere, decided to substitute pimento cheese. Now you can get pimento cheese battered and fried or layered on a burger, but then, she was ahead of her time.

Cheese plates are considered a separate course of a multi-course meal. There’s an art and science to that, but I’m just a turophile. My first introduction to fancy cheese was at a party where I was offered a smear of port wine cheese spread on a cracker.

(I’m pretty sure this party was at a Baptist music minister’s house. Scandalous.)

On our trip to France a few years back, we explored all sorts of varieties that we hadn’t run into before, including some especially stinky varieties that we don’t want to run into again. But I don’t hold that against cheese in general. Le people like what le people like. In the Middle East, we bought disks of cheese made from camel’s milk, ate sandwiches of boiled eggs and feta, craved a salad involving onion, tomato, and shankleesh (that’s a cheese, by the way), and discovered that halloumi can be grilled without melting. Cheese makes the world go round.

It’s hard to come up with a restaurant, from fast food to fine dining, that doesn’t offer fried cheese. If it’s not fried, it’s melted on a breadstick, mixed in the spinach artichoke dip, or sprinkled over the nachos. I’ll take them all.

Back in the day, my local North Carolina Little Caesar’s had a veggie sandwich.

That’s not something I would have normally ordered at a pizza joint. But the bread was essentially pizza dough, the veggies were warm, and it was all held together with a healthy portion of … yup, melted mozzarella. Cheese makes vegetables taste good, and that principle is not limited to broccoli. A food podcaster I listen to used to ask guests to name a food that wasn’t made better by adding melted cheese; good answers were hard to come by.

It upgrades an omelet. It perfects a pizza. With a streak of blue, it complements steaks. And there was a day when our fondness for Alice Springs Chicken from Outback was so great, we learned to make it at home. (Chicken, bacon, melted cheese.

‘Nuff said.)

My parents, for as long as I can remember, have given cheese as Christmas gifts.

If you were lucky enough to be on their list in the 70s and 80s, you got a big red ball of Edam from Mississippi State University. Eventually, that evolved into a wheel of Vallagret, but Santa keeps bringing the cheese.

Let’s not forget dessert. Red velvet cake? Cream cheese frosting. Apple pie? Slice of cheddar or a cheese straw crust. Cheesecake? Whether you’re making it at home from the Hoka recipe or buying one from Jubilations, Mississippi holds its own. New York’s got nothing on us. edm

Gourmet Grilling | My Delicious Mississippi Life | Watermelon Carnival

Natchez Food Tour | Clean Kitchen | Chefs of the Coast

Deep South Dining | Turnip Greens & Tortillas | Philadelphia Ham Jam

Mediterranean Diet | Mississippi Vegan | SFA’s Guide to Cocktails

VOLUME 7, NUMBER 3

VOLUME 7, NUMBER 5

eat. drink. eat. drink. eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI MISSISSIPPI MISSISSIPPI

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI weeknight dinners

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

Bursting with Blueberries

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

farm FRESH

Back-to-School

Strawberries and Champagne Cheesecake Sweet Tea Brined Pork Chops Brunswick Stew

Cheddar Green Onion Biscuits Mississippi Cathead Vodka Shrimp

15

11

appetizers we love!

Shrimp and Grits

and where to find them

Places to chill with a sweet treat

Baked Brie en Croute

FOURTH OF JULY FAMILY PICNIC

at Home

+ The Trusty Diner + Airport Grocery + Monte’s Steak and Seafood + Skylight Grill + Morgan’s on Main

April/May 2018

August/September 2018

Smoked Sausage Hash eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

Romantic Dinner

Strawberry Iced Tea

GREENVILLE RESTAURANT GETS CELEBRITY CHEF MAKEOVER

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

+ V. Taco + Bentonia Bugs Crawfish + Crazy Cat Eat Up + Gitano Grill + White Pillars

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

Missing an issue?

Back issues are available on our website at

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VOLUME 8, NUMBER 3

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8, NUMB

Oyster Farming | Bread & Butter Bistro | Mississippi Food & Wine Festival

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eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

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April/May 2019

SISSIPP

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*Price includes shipping. Single issues $7.95.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

Mississippi’s Bicentennial | Backroads and Burgers | A Taste of Home Town

JUNE/JULY 2017

Pumpkin Palooza

Make-Ahead

HOLIDAYAPPETIZERS

Summer’s

Elvis-Inspired Recipes

Baked Ricotta

+ Forklift + Downtown Grille + 303 Jefferson + 1884 Cafe + Sully’s

Crunchy Grilled Snapper Burritos Classic Southern Tomato Pie Quickie Pie

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

Gourmet Ice Pop Shops June/July 2017

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

in Mississippi

August/September 2017

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

October/November 2017

+ The Rainey + Mai Little Chinese + The Anthony + Sonny’s Smokehouse + Dempsey’s Seafood & Steak

Fresh-From-the-Garden Recipes

BEST BURGER

Pasta Jambalaya

+ On a Roll Gourmet Egg Rolls + Dino’s Grocery + Saltine Restaurant + Commodore Bob’s Yacht Club + Charred

BOUNTY

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

Old Biloxi French Gumbo

Feast Like The King in Tupelo eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

Christmas Breakfast Casserole

VOLUME 6, NUMBER 4

Orange Slice Candy Cake

Mississippi Seafood Trail | Berry Picking | The Great Ruleville Roast

VOLUME 6, NUMBER 5

Short Rib Crostini

eat. drink. eat. drink. eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI MISSISSIPPI MISSISSIPPI Palate to Palette | Gucci to Goats | The Great Mississippi River Balloon Race

VOLUME 6, NUMBER 6

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI

PICK 5 BACK ISSUES FOR $2499* & SAVE 37%!

TAYLOR HICKS GETS A TASTE OF THE MAGNOLIA STATE

+ Steak by Melissa + Bellazar’s + Drago’s + Bin 612 + Jack’s by the Tracks

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 67

PRESENTED BY MCM PARTNERS

Saturday, July 13, 2019 Mississippi Children’s Museum

8:00 pm - 12:00 am metro area food trucks beer and specialty cocktails raffle with great prizes

Don’t miss this sizzlin’ summer fundraiser!

SPONSORED BY:

MAG CAP

Adults only fundraising event AGES 21 & UP • PURCHASE TICKETS TODAY!

mschildrensmuseum.org

68 • JUNE/JULY 2019