eat. drink. MISSISSPPI: October/November 2021 Issue by eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

Coney Island Café | Honestly Beef | Chandeuler Island Brewing Company

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI g n i v i g s nk

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Do Turkey Day Differently

Jazz up your Thanksgiving table with three deliciously unique recipes October/November 2021 $

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Fall in Love with the Season

Whether you’re celebrating the harvest season, tailgating or Halloween, plan ahead with more fabulous recipes for fall eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

Food in JXN for Your Tailgating Game Plan BY REBECCA FENDING

t’s officially fall in the South, which means tailgating season is upon us. No matter what team you’re rooting for, here are

Fred’s Soul Food Restaurant 930 Palmyra Street Formerly Tay’s Soul Food, this restaurant is known for its deliciously traditional Southern breakfast offerings. With items such as breakfast sandwiches (with your choice of breakfast meat) or breakfast platters that you can build yourself with your choice of meat, including ham or salmon, eggs, grits or hashbrowns. However, Fred’s also has a lunch menu complete with burgers, trout, catfish and pork chop sandwiches—all perfect handheld options for tailgating fare. Complementary sides include fries, onion rings, fried okra, potato salad or a side salad. If you’re looking to enjoy breakfast from Fred’s while tailgating, the breakfast menu is available from 6 am to 10 am. Lunch is served from 11 am to 2 pm. Fred’s is closed on Sundays. For any questions, call (601) 961-0974. Eddie Wright BBQ – Food truck with varying locations Barbecue is done just a bit differently at Eddie Wright BBQ. With a motto of “all smoke, no sauce,” barbecue items from here have a unique taste that’s done right.

a few places within the City with Soul to help you celebrate the ups and downs all season long.

a variety of topping combinations. The Southwest BBQ burger, made with cheddar cheese, bacon, onion straws, BBQ sauce, chipotle mayo, lettuce, tomato and pickles, is perfect if you’re looking for something different from a traditional cheeseburger. However, if you’re looking for a non-beef option, Back Yard also has turkey burgers and chicken sandwich options. The Black Jack Chicken Club is a great option, made with blackened chicken, pepper jack cheese, bacon, lettuce, tomato and creole mayo. Open from 10:30 am to 9 pm every day of the week, Back Yard Burgers is the place to pick up burgers for your tailgating party. For more information, visit the store online at backyardburgers.com. Corner Market – locations in Fondren, Belhaven and LeFleur East This chain grocery store has you covered when it comes to on-site tailgate cooking. With options such as Certified Angus beef burgers in a variety of flavors, hotdogs, brats, Sanderson Farms chicken and even pork chops, Corner Market has you covered no matter what you’re in the mood for. Pick up fresh-baked buns, produce toppings and even craft beer while you’re in the store to complete your tailgating menu. If you’re looking for a deal, Corner Market offers a 5 for $19.99 special every day of the week where you can choose five items from the meat counter for just under $20.

All menu items can be ordered in catering-sized servings, perfect for feeding the whole tailgating party. Menu items include smoked chicken wings or thighs, smoked ribs, sausages or brisket. You can also order side dishes such as potato salad or smoked tater tot casserole, complete with tots smoked over pecan pellets, married together and smoked again and topped with shredded cheddar.

Hours of operation vary between different stores, so be sure to find the specifics of your location at cornermarketms.com.

Or, if you’re ordering for the whole party, Eddie’s also offers a Party Pan: 50 wings and two slabs of smoked ribs, with dipping sauces and rolls. Customize this any way you like by adding more barbecue items fit for your group.

With daily specials and even catering, Steve’s is sure to make your tailgating season one of a kind. This deli has lunch plates, sandwiches, pizza and even fresh soup for chilly days, making them a favorite lunch spot since opening in 2004.

Eddie Wright BBQ offers pick up or delivery for online orders. With a pre-determined delivery time window, you can have barbecue delivered right to you, so you don’t have to leave the party. For more information and ordering, visit eddiewrightbbq.com. Back Yard Burgers - 2601 North State Street Just a 90-second walk away from the Mississippi Veteran Memorial Stadium, Back Yard Burgers’ menu is just what any tailgater could want. The flame-grilled, third-pound burgers come with

2 • October/November 2021

Steve’s Downtown Deli and Bakery - 125 South Congress Street

All sandwiches at Steve’s are built on house-baked focaccia and served with a side of your choosing. The Capitol Club is especially popular with Steve regulars. This sandwich is made with roasted turkey, applewood smoked ham, provolone, bacon, comeback, lettuce and tomato. Steve’s also offers salads, desserts and breakfast options, making it a great stop no matter the time of day. Open from 11 am to 2 pm, Steve’s on Congress Street is a great lunch pop-in. For more information and a full menu, visit stevesdowntown. com.

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eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 3

CONTENTS October/November 2021 Volume 10 Number 5

13 22 in every issue 6 From the Editor 7

What’s Happening

in this issue 14 FRESH FROM THE FARM: Honestly Beef

34 FROM MISSISSIPPI TO BEYOND: Brandt Cox

17 A LOCAL FOOD NETWORK STAR

36 MONTHLY RECIPE: Blistered Tomatoes and Cheese Skewers

18 THANKSGIVING WITH A TWIST: 3 new ways to spice up old favorites

37 MISSISSIPPI MADE: Robert St. John Seasonings

10 Fabulous Foodie Finds

24 THE ART OF CANNING WITH APRIL MCGREGER

12 A Taste of Magnolia

26 EVERYTHING YOU EVER WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT GUMBO

45 Recipe Index

28 CONSERVATION WITH CHANDEULER ISLAND BREWING COMPANY

47 Till We Eat Again

4 • October/November 2021

32 THE HISTORY OF PO’BOYS

38 RESTAURANT SPOTLIGHT: Coney Island Café 40 DOLCE GELATO TREATS: Focusin on the Classics 42 FROM THE BOOKSHELF: “Best of Thanksgiving” 44 RAISE YOUR GLASS: Hallows’ Eve Margarita

ON THE COVER: Wild Rice Stuffed Turkey Breast by Lisa LaFontaine Bynum, page 22.

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eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 5

{ from the editor }

Autumn Pumpkins and Productivity BY REBECCA FENDING

t’s finally happening; everyone remain calm— fall is here! After patiently (or not so patiently) waiting for the last few weeks of summer to die off, we’ve finally made it to arguably the best season of the year. Sure, spring has its moments, but at the end of fall is the holiday season. And how can anyone not be excited about that? As we’re coming up on year two of a COVIDstricken world, it’s important now more than ever to savor things that fill you with joy. Whether it’s warm autumnal spices, cheesy Hallmark movies that may or may not be your guiltiest pleasure or just spending time with family while cozy indoors, embrace the simplicities of the season. In the spirit of living life and enjoying it as safely as you can, now is the time to take on that project or pursue an idea you’ve held onto for far too long. Have you been considering making your own soaps or candles? Start now, so then you can perfect your craft in time for holiday gifts! Nothing makes a person feel more special than when they receive a handmade gift tailored specifically to their tastes. Or, if you’re more into the idea of crossing things off of your want or to-do lists, start by reading a book or watching a movie that you’ve had in the back of your mind for the past few months. There’s no better time to settle down and get cozy with a good book or movie than fall. Host a Halloween or harvest party, even if it’s just for those already in your house. We’ve got plenty of food and drink recipes that are perfect for putting you into the fall mood. From vividly festive drinks to forest floor cupcakes, there’s no shortage of ways to jazz up your typical fall menu. One of my favorite yet simple recipes for the season is spiced pumpkin dip. I saw a variation of this recipe a while back and decided to tweak it for a couple of reasons: number one, I am not a fan of heavily pumpkin spiced things, so I went conservative on the spice. Number two, the original was severely lacking something—it needed more powdered sugar and more cinnamon, in my humble

opinion. But similarly, feel free to adjust any of the measurements however they best fit your tastes. This dip is especially great if you need something to whip up (no pun intended) ahead of time for either hosting or contributing to a potluck. I have yet to find a single person that doesn’t love this dip, and I’m sure you’ll find the same success. You can make this the night before and seal the dip in an airtight container. Serve it with a sweet and crunchy cookie, such as graham crackers or vanilla wafers. SPICED PUMPKIN DIP Yield: about 4 cups worth of dip Ingredients: • 2 cups heavy cream • 1 box (3.4 oz.) instant French vanilla pudding mix (MUST be French vanilla) • ½ cup powdered sugar • ½ cup plain, canned pumpkin • 2 teaspoons pumpkin spice • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon • Graham crackers, gingersnaps or vanilla wafers for dipping To Prepare: 1. With a standing or hand mixer, whisk together the heavy cream and instant pudding mix until soft peaks form. Typically, 2-3 minutes. 2. Whisk in powdered sugar and spices until combined. Then, gently fold in canned pumpkin until uniform in color. 3. Chill for at least 3 hours (preferably overnight) in a sealed container. Serve with a light dusting of cinnamon for garnish, your choice of crunchy cookie or sweet cracker and enjoy! 4. Note: If you’re not a fan of dip, you can make or buy graham cracker crust in a pie plate and fill it with the dip recipe for a no-bake pie! Refrigerate for the same amount of time and slice it up when you’re ready. edm

EAT DRINK MISSISSIPPI (USPS 17200) is published bi-monthly by Connected Community Media Group, 10971 Four Seasons Pl. Ste. 211, Crown Point, IN 46307. Periodicals postage paid at Madison, MS, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Please mail changes of address to P.O. Box 1663, Madison, MS 39130.

6 • October/November 2021

{ what’s happening }

Central BBQ Announces First Mississippi Location at Silo Square in Southaven

Memphis BBQ staple and a number-one ranked BBQ joint, Central BBQ is opening a location in Southaven’s new Silo Square development. With four locations in Memphis and two in Nashville, this will be Central BBQ’s first location in Mississippi. Central BBQ serves up classic BBQ favorites like ribs, pulled pork, brisket, pulled chicken and smoked turkey, as well as other snacks like hot wings, BBQ nachos and sausage and cheese plates. The Silo Square location is set to open next summer. edm

District Donuts Opens in Jackson’s Belhaven Neighborhood

nown for their over-the-top donuts, coffee and sandwiches, District Donuts has locations throughout Louisiana and one in Las Vegas, and Jackson’s Belhaven neighborhood is home to their newest location and first in Mississippi. District Donuts makes everything from scratch, and they offer six rotating donut flavors each week with options ranging from Cereal & Milk, Boston Cream, Root Beer Float, Chocolate Glazed, Blueberry Cheesecake, Maple Bacon, and Funfetti. They also offer breakfast sandwiches and sliders that are made fresh to order. District Donuts is located at the Belhaven Town Center next to Elvie’s. edm

Tuk Tuk Boom Offers Fast Casual Thai and Sushi at Jackson’s Highland Village

ackson’s newest Thai and sushi spot, Tuk Tuk Boom opened in July and offers traditional Thai fare as well as other specialty items. Patrons can find appetizers like spring rolls, potstickers and crab angels to snack on, as well as chicken panang, pad thai, spicy beef noodles and thai fried rice. The sushi menu includes rolls like spicy tuna, veggie roll, super crunch, spicy shrimp roll, and Tuk Tuk Boom roll. They also offer frozen and specialty cocktails, beer and wine. Tuk Tuk Boom is located in Highland Village across from Beagle Bagel in the main plaza. edm

Chef Austin Sumrall of White Pillars in Biloxi Crowned King of American Seafood

he 2021 Great American Seafood Cook-Off was held in New Orleans in July, and Biloxi Chef Austin Sumrall took home the title of King of American Seafood. For his winning dish, Chef Sumrall prepared a Gulf snapper three ways. Sumrall spoke highly of the Magnolia State and the seafood it offers, especially being that his restaurant, White Pillars, is directly across from the Gulf of Mexico. As the winner, Chef Sumrall will travel across the country and abroad to promote U.S. seafood. A 2020 James Beard nominee, Chef Sumrall grew up in McComb, Miss., and studied hotel and restaurant management at Ole Miss. He then went on to receive classical training at the Culinary Institute of America in New York. edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 7

VENDORS WANTED We are currently seeking magazine vendors in all areas of the state.

If you would like to sell this magazine at your business, call 601-427-5694 or email info@eatdrinkmississippi.com for more information.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI Debbie Hansen Publisher/Editor

Debbie.Hansen@eatdrinkmississippi.com

Rebecca Fending Editor

Rebecca.Fending@eatdrinkmississippi.com

FOLLOW US! www.facebook.com/eatdrinkmississippi www.pinterest.com/eatdrinkms www.twitter.com/eatdrinkms www.linkedin.com/company/eat-drink-mississippi www.instagram.com/eatdrinkmississippi

Paige McKay Contributing Writer & Advertising Associate Paige.McKay@eatdrinkmississippi.com

Julian Brunt Lisa LaFontaine Bynum Divian Conner Melissa Cookston Susan Marquez Brandi Perry Jay Reed Contributors

www.eatdrinkmississippi.com

DROP US A LINE! Thank you for your interest in this magazine. We would love to hear from you. Please understand that letters submitted become the property of eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI and may be edited for length and clarity. E-mail us at info@eatdrinkmississippi.com, leave a comment on our Facebook page, or write to P.O. Box 1663, Madison, MS 39130.

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8 • October/November 2021

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI is published six times a year by Connected Community Media Group

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eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 9

{ fabulous foodie finds }

Perfect Your Autumn with Pottery

urrent home and kitchen décor trends center around a rustic, modernized farmhouse aesthetic. There is no better way to blend functional, beautiful and trendy than with classic pottery pieces sprinkled throughout your home.

As autumn is upon us, there is just something about the cozy, classic feeling of a handmade pottery piece crafted by a local potter. Whether you are serving a full holiday meal with these pieces or just having guests over for the evening, these items create a trendy, homespun feel.

Small Mississippi Dish in Jade – Peter’s Pottery, $25 Show some pride for your state with this Mississippi-shaped dish. Available in a variety of colors, this jade-colored dish reflects the rich, earthy tones seen throughout the natural scenes of the state. This piece is crafted by The Woods Brothers in Mound Bayou, Mississippi, and measures five inches by three inches. The dish works perfectly as a centerpiece for a dinner or coffee table. Fill with a mix of nuts, candies or even use it as a catch-all dish by the door. The durable quality and glaze are ideal for many different functions. To purchase or learn more, visit themississippigiftcompany.com.

Jade-Colored Tray – Peter's Pottery, $100 Add a subtle pop of color to your décor with this jade-colored tray from Peter’s Pottery. Although listed as an “Asparagus Tray,” this piece can be used for nearly anything—from bread to seasonal décor. The Woods Brothers in Mound Bayou also crafts this piece, making it a perfect match for the Mississippishaped dish described above. Peter’s Pottery also carries pieces in the colors nutmeg (a rustic, natural brown), blue and white. Although a bit of color never hurt anyone, there is sure to be a piece tailored to your personal taste. Visit themississippigiftcompany.com to view the entire collection.

Dinner Plate – The Good Earth Pottery, $65 Modernity rejects the matchy-matchy mindset of previous home design. From mixing two unlike colors to blending wood stains, opting for a two-toned cabinetry system is one way to make your kitchen look ahead of its time. Although it may pain you at first, blending two different colors or tones isn’t just modern, it’s art. Mixing the depth of darker colors with brights or lights can create a perfectly-you space that is great for all seasons of entertaining. This kitchen design idea from European Cabinets and Design Studio is an example of going dark with cabinets and light with flooring and wall color creates a sleek, modern spin to the room. 10 • October/November 2021

Tea Tumbler – Etta B Pottery, $44 As folks become accustomed to staying home, what would before be a luxury is now a necessity. One of these is an instant hot water tap. No longer must you wait for the water to heat or boil as this modern necessity is ready when you are. If you’re looking for a cup of tea or coffee on the fly or even need hot filtered water for other household needs, this InSinkErator Instant Hot Water Dispenser has you covered. It has adjustable water temperature settings, from 170 to 200 degrees, and heats the water with electricity, which set up is ultra-easy. Butter Dish – The Good Earth Pottery, $72 Another beautiful piece from The Good Earth Pottery, this named “Celery” style glaze is perfect for every décor style and preference. A neutral mix of off-white, green and brown works to unify aspects of every kitchen, just as it was designed to do. And, paired with a little bird on top? You cannot get much cuter than that. This piece measures eight inches by five inches and functions as both a beautiful and functional centerpiece to any meal. You can find this piece and others from Good Earth themississippigiftcompany.com. Seafoam Spoon Rest – Coontown Pottery, $27 If you’re not into the idea of two-toned cabinets or you’re looking to add another modern layer to the design, mesh might be your ticket. Mesh doors for cabinets and cupboards create a hyper-modern feel as they borrow from the past and reclaim it now. They have a comparative look and feel to old-fashioned pie safes from the early 1700s, but with the modernized twist of industrial metal. This example from Traditional Home completes this modern trend and also includes the aesthetic of open cabinetry. Kitchen Sponge Holder – Three E Designs, $50 If you are looking for a decorative and effective way to hold your kitchen sponge, Three E Designs has a great option. This sponge holder is both beautifully handcrafted and thoughtfully designed. Stand your sponge upright in this holder to allow it to dry completely between uses without forming dangerous mold. Southern-born and raised Erich Emmeneger of Three E Pottery started his pottery journey in the mid-eighties. Over the years, Erich has been awarded various "Best in Show" awards for his art, and his work is featured in galleries and specialty boutiques around the country. Three E Pottery is located in Olive Branch, Mississippi. Find this piece and more from Erich at themississippigiftcompany.com.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 11

Taste of Magnolia a

Spooky Halloween Graveyard Cupcakes BY DIVIAN CONNER

DIVIAN CONNER is a Mississippi mama of four ‘not so little’ little ones. Coming up with recipes, trying new ones, and feeding her crew of tweens and teens is her passion. Southern recipes, easy recipes, sorta hard recipes, but always delicious recipes is what you will find on her food blog, www.divianlconner.com. Now venturing into outdoor cooking over an open fire, Divian is fascinated with camp cooking and entertaining.

12 • October/November 2021 12 • October/November 2021

ne of our favorite times of year is fall. While my mom has pumpkins and an array of gold and yellow leaves adorning her table as soon as fall hits, it is no secret in our family that I have been known to bring out the stretched spider webs, black studded pumpkins and Halloween decor at the end of August. To me, fall is Halloween and, in my house, we start planning as soon as we can. I laughed when my mom asked the other week, “We can expect your Halloween table September 1st, right?” While this year is likely to be a repeat of last year—more of a private, intimate gathering of my close family, the anticipation is still great and the planning intense and thorough. Instead of going door to door with candy, I have already started secretly stocking up on various bags of sugary goodness--I have this vision of a table covered in candy haul to light up just about anyone’s eyes. It may be a bit different, but we will not let it deter us from having a great and wonderfully spooky time. The cool end of summer leads the way to bonfires, ghost stories and watching movies with jump scares as a family. While it is true that we do not shy away from the spookiness, we also see it as the beginning of holiday family time. Not only do we look forward to our Halloween party, but the movie nights are always a treat. Halloween-themed snacks are laid out while we snuggle up on couches and yell at the actors on the screen, “Run, child, run!” The night is full of frights, but tons of laughs and conversations on what we would do. With older children, who are really no longer “children,” we make it into time to really talk. The nights of gearing up to the finale are appreciated in this household. This year is no different, I already have a playlist of creaks and moans from the doors of old houses, and the menu has already been started. I have never been one to need an excuse to throw a themed party, and October is the perfect time to plan a super spooky one for my family and friends. I have been toying with the idea of a Haunted Fairy Tales theme and decided that sometimes, some of the most beautiful things can be spooky. These moss-covered cupcakes can be made any time of the year and topped to fit almost any theme, are super easy to make, and are perfect for Halloween dessert tables everywhere! edm

CHOCOLATE BLACKBERRY JAM-FILLED CUPCAKES

COOKIE MOSS • Refrigerated Cookie Dough

• Boxed chocolate cake mix, prepared as directed

• Green/Yellow/Blue Food Coloring

• Sweetened lime juice

• Spooky topper of your choice

• Blackberry jam • Cream cheese frosting • Green food coloring • Cupcake liners 1. Prepare cupcakes as directed on the box. Once cool, spritz with sweetened lime juice lightly.

1. Break apart the cookie dough into sections and create various shades of green by mixing in the food coloring. 2. Prepare and bake the cookies as directed and once cooled, crumble the cookies in different sizes to make the “moss.” Mix them to create the various shades of natural moss.

2. Using a piping bag, fill with jam. Insert pipe tip into center of cupcake and fill. 3. Top with cream cheese frosting that has been tinted green and roll in cookie moss crumbs to coat. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 13

{ fresh from the farm }

Honestly Beef:

Genuinely Mississippi BY BRANDI PERRY

ernie Rogers had always been in the cow business, and when he and Jaclyn got married, she wanted to know why they could not sell their beef directly from the farm. Little did she know the steps she would have to take to get Honestly Beef where they are today. After finding out they had to be federally inspected to sell small cuts of beef or sell across state lines, they also had to find a state-inspected plant that was willing to work with them. “At the time, there were not that many plants

14 • October/November 2021

in the state, and we kept getting ‘no.’ Finally, the one in Summit finally took a chance on us, and they have been loyal to us and us to them ever since,” Jaclyn explained. Since then, the Collins, Mississippi farm has not slowed down their production or sales. The farm only has two types of cows, Angus and Charolais. Their cattle are grass-fed and grain-finished, and they spend their entire lives free-ranging. They count them on paper every month, and twice a year in January and July they count every head.

Many times, to ensure the cattle are getting all the nutrients they need; they are fed grain. Different from most farms in Mississippi, Honestly Beef mixes their own from a variety of human-grade products that are going out of date. They buy products that are fresh and local as often as they can. For instance, they get peanut skins from the M&M factory, cotton seeds from the Mississippi Delta, and orange peelings from an orange juice factory out of Florida. The roasted coffee beans come from the Folgers plant in New Orleans and the brewer’s mash from the Abita Beer Factory in Abita Springs, Louisiana. They mix the feed from the items that are nearing expiration in order to give the cattle the best mix. The feed found at your local feed store has something added in it that allows for it to have a long shelf life. Additionally, they will use silage when available, which is corn from their Pearl River County farm that has been chopped up and fermented for 30 days. Once the 24 months are up for the beef, they are harvested and each one is dry-aged to perfection, which is usually seven to 14 days. Then each one is hand-cut and trimmed into

the delicious steaks and beef products that they are so proud to offer their customers. Their primary goal is to bridge the gap between the farm and the dinner table. This allows their customers access to locally raised beef they can feel good about serving to their family. “We want to offer our customers the beef that is best for their family. What we can provide is lean and nutritious and it will provide known health benefits that only grass-fed animals can,” Rogers explained. Their beef is packaged Kosher, so consumers do not have to worry about what is hidden inside. Customers can shop for all types of cuts online at honestlybeef.com. The farm offers a huge variety of cuts and products that range from ground beef, roasts, brisket, filet of tenderloin steaks, New York Strip steaks, ribeye steaks, top sirloin steaks, flanks and flat iron steaks, short ribs and rib rack, to soup bones, oxtails, tongue, liver, heart, kidney, cheek, smoked link sausages, beef jerky and even liver doggie treats. If you do not live in Mississippi but still want some of the best beef you have ever had, they can ship anywhere in the country. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 15

At present time, they regularly make shipments to California and Colorado. Honestly Beef has specially made boxes that will keep any order fresh frozen for 72 hours. If a shipment is going to take longer than that, the Rogers will use dry ice to ensure your beef is still fresh when you receive it. If you do live in Mississippi and would like to pick up your order, there are also options for that! Arrangements can be made with Jaclyn to be picked up in Collins, Magee, Laurel or Brandon. Jaclyn also regularly attends farmer’s markets all over the state and Louisiana. These are perfect opportunities to talk with her about what is going on at the farm, order some of their delicious product or try it. She is at the Camelia City Farmer’s Market in Slidell the second Saturday of every month, the Downtown Hattiesburg Farmer’s Market every Tuesday, Vicksburg’s Farmer’s Market every third Saturday and Hancock County’s Farmers Market every first Saturday. These appearances are all dependent on weather. Honestly Beef is also a part of Genuine Mississippi. The Mississippi Department of Agriculture and Commerce started this in an effort to make it easy for consumers not only from Mississippi but all over the world, to be able to find products that are created or produced in the Magnolia State by farmers or entrepreneurs. Genuine Mississippi does a spectacular job of showing the entire world our state pride and in turn, helps keep the state’s economy strong by encouraging tourism. There are also ten restaurants in Mississippi that you can try the beef. On the Mississippi Gulf Coast, these restaurants that serve Honestly Beef are Wholey Foods in Bay St. Louis, Craft Advisory Brewing in Ocean Springs and Beach Side Grill in Long Beach. In the Laurel area, you can find this beef at Edgar’s Steakhouse, Bird Dog Café, Oak Leaf General Store and The Knight Butcher Shop. Finally, Gitano Grill and Bakery in Taylorsville and GW & Jo’s Café will be more than happy to serve you up a delicious plate of beef. Honestly Beef is located at 84 Cattle Drive in Collins, 16 • October/November 2021

Mississippi but please call to arrange an order or pick up before you. You can reach them at 601-299-4202. Head on over to their website and place your first order with Jaclyn and Bernie. edm

A Local Food Network Star BY PAIGE MCKAY WHITE

t just 11-years-old, Madison native Andrew Clark has already made a name for himself in the baking and pastry world. Back in December, Andrew appeared on season nine of Food Network's “Kid Baking Championship.” While he did not win, he accomplished and is still accomplishing so much more. Chef Andrew started his baking journey at just age four. “I baked a blueberry pie for Thanksgiving,” he said. “And it actually turned out pretty good.” From there, he decided to take on the challenge of a chocolate chip icebox pie. After watching Nancy Fuller on Food Network, Andrew decided he wanted to take on baking, and he has not stopped since. He had to learn the ropes of baking and the science that came with it, but it was a task he was ready to take on. “I didn’t even know how to cream butter and sugar,” he said. “I had to watch a lot of YouTube videos.” For a few years, Andrew was only baking for leisure. At around 7-yearsold, he and his momager (mom/ manager) Kristi decided to make it into a business. “My mom wasn’t too sure about it since I was so young, so when I was close to 9, it got a lot more serious.” Since then, business has been booming, and Chef Andrew has been taking custom orders through his Instagram and email, and he has even been setting up shop at local farmer’s markets over the last several years. Chef Andrew noted that he has learned how much goes into having a business and selling his products. “A lot goes into it because you have to package and label all the products,” he said. “It sometimes takes longer than the baking process.” His first gig was a couple of years ago at the Madison Farmer’s Market, held every Tuesday during the spring and summer. It motivated him to want to do more and take this passion further. Whether he is at the Madison Farmer’s Market or Livingston Local, customers can find all kinds

Image from Food Network on Instagram of sweets, from cookies to brownies and even macarons, at Chef Andrew’s table. Selling his baked goods at farmer’s markets is not his only accomplishment, however. Last year, Chef Andrew got the chance of a lifetime and appeared on season nine of “Kids Baking Championship.” He and his fellow contestants beat out thousands of other kids to appear on the show, which is an accomplishment in itself. The episodes in which he appeared aired in December 2020, so he was on set filming during the summer of the same year. “It was a lot different cooking on TV than it is at home,” Chef Andrew noted. “It was really hot on set and we had to do a lot of things differently because of Covid.” Though he did not come home with a win under his belt, the future is still bright for the young baker, and he is clinging tight to his advice of never giving up. “This was my third time auditioning,” he said. “I didn’t give up.” Chef Andrew also recalled when he tried to make cupcakes when he was younger, and they did not turn out as he hoped. Yet, he did not give up. And his cupcakes have since improved, of course. Ultimately, Chef Andrew’s goal is to open a pastry shop in Paris, but for the time being, you can find him at local farmer’s markets or contact him on Instagram at @ thechefandrewclark for custom orders. Chef Andrew is also planning to host virtual baking classes through an online pastry school. edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 17

Thanksgiv with a Twist

18 • October/November 2021

BY LISA LAFONTAINE BYNUM BY LISA LAFONTAINE BYNUM

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hanksgivingisissynonymous synonymouswith withfood, food,and andlots lotsofofit!it!However, However,when when hanksgiving planningyour yourfeast, feast,don’t don’tfeel feellike likeyou youhave havetotostick stickwith withtradition. tradition.InIn planning fact,straying strayingfrom fromtradition traditionisisnot notonly onlyfun, fun,it’s it’sdelicious. delicious.Check Checkout outthese these fact, “traditional”Thanksgiving Thanksgivingdishes disheswith witha atwist. twist.edm edm “traditional”

ving eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 19

Praline Pecan

Pumpkin Crunch Cake

20 • October/November 2021

Fresh Cranberry Sauce with Bourbon and Vanilla

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 21

PRALINE PECAN PUMPKIN CRUNCH CAKE SERVES 12 Cake Ingredients: • 1 (15 ounce) can pumpkin puree • 1 (12 ounce) can evaporated milk • 4 large eggs • 1/2 cup sugar • 1/2 cup packed light brown sugar • 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract • 1 tablespoon pumpkin pie spice • 1 teaspoon salt • 1 box yellow cake mix • 1/4 cup of unsalted butter melted Praline Ingredients: • 1/4 cup of unsalted butter softened • 1/2 cup packed light brown sugar • 1/4 cup all-purpose flour • 1/2 cup of chopped pecans To make the cake: 1. Preheating the oven to 350 degrees. Spray a 9 x 13-inch baking pan with cooking spray. 2. To a mixing bowl, combine pumpkin puree, evaporated milk, eggs, white granulated sugar, light brown sugar, vanilla extract, pumpkin pie spice and salt. Mix on medium speed until everything is thoroughly mixed together.

FRESH CRANBERRY SAUCE WITH BOURBON AND VANILLA SERVES 4 Ingredients: • 1 cup sugar • 1/4 cup bourbon • 1/2 cup orange juice • 1/2 cup cranberry juice • 1 12-oz package, about 3 cups fresh or frozen cranberries • 1 whole vanilla bean, halved and seeded To make: 1. Combine all ingredients in a medium saucepan, including the seeded vanilla bean pod. Heat over medium high heat until it starts to boil. 2. Cover the pan and reduce the heat to medium low. Continue to simmer for 7-10 minutes until the cranberries begin to soften and pop and the liquid thickens. 3. Remove the cranberry sauce from the heat. 4. Remove and discard the vanilla bean pod. 5. Remove one cup of the cranberry sauce from the pan and set aside. 6. Puree the remaining sauce. Add the reserved cranberry sauce back to the pan and stir. 7. Allow the cranberry sauce to chill for 4-8 hours before serving. Sauce will continue to thicken as it cools.

3. Pour the pumpkin mixture into the prepared baking pan and spread it into an even layer using a spoon or spatula. 4. Sprinkle the dry yellow cake mix evenly over the pumpkin mixture. Drizzle the melted butter over the entire top of the cake. To make the topping: 1. Combine the remaining 1/4 cup of softened butter with light brown sugar and chopped pecans. Mix everything together until it resembles the consistency of wet sand. Using a spoon (or your fingers), sprinkle the praline layer as evenly as you can over the top. 2. Bake the cake for 50-60 minutes until the top is golden brown. Check the cake after 35-40 minutes just to make sure the top isn’t browning too quickly. If it looks like it is, cover it with a layer of aluminum foil and continue baking for the duration. 3. Allow the cake to cool completely, then chill it in the fridge for a few hours before serving. Pumpkin crunch cake can be serves cold or heated in the microwave for a minute. 4. Serve with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.

WILD RICE STUFFED TURKEY BREAST SERVES 4 Ingredients: • 1 (6 ounce) box long grain and wild rice • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter • 1/3 cup diced onion • 2 cloves garlic minced • ½ cup pine nuts • ¼ teaspoon ground sage • ½ teaspoon ground thyme • 1 (3 pound) boneless turkey breast roast • Salt and pepper to taste To make: 1. Cook long grain and wild rice according to package directions. 2. While the rice is cooking, melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté until tender. 3. Add the minced garlic and pine nuts. Cook until the garlic is fragrant, about 30 seconds to one minute. 4. Add the cooked rice to the pan with the onions. Stir in the sage and thyme. Set aside and allow the rice to cool. 5. Lay the turkey breast out on a cutting board. Starting from the thick end, slice through the turkey breast lengthwise, but do not cut all the way through. Lay the turkey breast

22 • October/November 2021

out flat. Cover with waxed paper. Flatten the turkey breast with a meat mallet until it is about ½ inch thick. Season the inside of the turkey breast with salt and pepper.

8. Slide the kitchen twine pieces under the turkey breast. Place them about 1-inch apart. Tie the ends securely to hold the turkey breast together. Tuck any loose ends under the twine.

6. Spoon the rice down the center of the turkey breast. Be sure to keep a 1-inch margin at the top and bottom to prevent the stuffing from oozing out the bottom when it’s rolled up.

9. Brush the outside of the turkey breast with olive oil. Season with salt and pepper.

7. Cut a few lengths of cooking twine long enough to tie around the rolled and stuffed turkey breast. Fold one of the long sides of turkey breast over the rice. Fold the other side over the first.

10. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Roast the turkey breast until a meat thermometer inserted in the meat near the center reads 165 degrees. Allow the turkey breast to rest for 15 minutes before cutting. Cut the stuffed turkey breast into medallions and serve.

Wild Rice Stuffed Turkey Breast

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 23

The Art of Canning with April McGreger BY SUSAN MARQUEZ

pril McGreger, aka “The Farmer’s Daughter,” didn’t start out to be an expert in canning and preserving foods. The Calhoun County native went to Millsaps College where she majored in English and Geology. She even went on to University of North Carolina where she went to graduate school in geology. But she always liked food – the preparation and the serving of it. “I worked in a restaurant the summer after high school, and while in college, I worked at Hal & Mal’s and Iron Horse Grill in Jackson.” While she

April McGregor. Photo by Lissa Gotwals 24 • October/November 2021

was in graduate school in Chapel Hill, North Carolina, she learned about a new restaurant run by women called Lantern. “I walked in and surprisingly got a job!” April’s graduate work took her to Italy, where she studied a volcano. “When I came back, I was cooking everything I had eaten in Italy. My boyfriend couldn’t help but notice that I seemed more interested in food than geology. He asked if I had thought of food as a career. My answer was ‘no,’ but that did plant a seed.” She began looking into what it might take to get into the culinary field, but April realized that culinary school was too expensive. “I bought the book The Making of a Chef: Mastering Heat at the Culinary Institute of America by Michael Ruhlman and devoured it.” The information in the book appealed to April, who said much of it already came naturally to her. “I ended up staying at Lantern for six years, the last three as the pastry chef.” Through her relationships at the restaurant, April met area farmers. “My family farmed sweet potatoes in Mississippi, so the local farming scene was important to me. I have always loved going to farmers’ markets.” April began hitting up the local farmers’ markets in the Chapel Hill area and taking advantage of the seasonal glut of fresh produce so she could can it for use throughout the winter months. “I also traveled a lot, and I would always visit markets in other parts of the world. After seeing what others were doing, I felt I had something to offer. The quality of the preserves my mother and grandmother made were exceptional, and I had learned from the best.” April made and marketed her jellies, jams and preserves under The Farmer’s Daughter label for many years. She also called on her background in English to begin writing. She had some pieces published in a literary arts journal and soon began writing a local food column. Wanting to spend less time on her business and more time writing and teaching, April found the perfect project when her friend and fellow Mississippian Jennifer Cole told her about a publication that

Centennial Media was doing. “I had always wanted to write a book,” April says. “This project was already decided, and it was easy for me to do without laboring over the specifics of it.” The Complete Guide to Canning & Preserving was published last spring and has been for sale in supermarkets, bookstores and other places where magazines are sold. The magazine format publication features a forward by April, followed by sections that cover canning 101, jams and jellies, preserves and marmalades, pickles, relish and chutneys and more. She even covers pressure canned broths and soups, brined and fermented foods and freezer favorites. Designed for the beginner as well as those who have been preserving foods for some time, the publication includes canning toolbox essentials, special ingredients that may be needed, and how to prepare jars for canning. The publication includes 127 recipes, which allow for variations, as well as step-by-step how-to illustrations.

McGreger at Carolina Food Summit in Chapel Hill. “This publication should serve as a guide,” says April. “I read a lot of magazines, and my mom has always bought tons of special issue publications like this one which she uses for information, so it was a format that was very comfortable to me. There is an approachableness to the format that people seem to like.” Many of the recipes April had were for larger amounts, going back to her Farmer’s Daughter days, so she had to scale them down for home cooks. “I look at food prep in terms of technique and ratios. All had to be exact and precise.” Centennial Media has an agreement with Simon & Schuster Publishers that if a special publication does well on the newsstands, it will be republished in book form. The Complete Guide to Canning & Preserving has done exceptionally well, perhaps partly due to people staying home and cooking more amid the pandemic. The publication will be released as in book form in Spring 2022. “I was very proud of how it came out,” says April. “I got a great education in the magazine world while doing it and look forward to doing more of these in the future.” edm

Image from Simon & Schuster eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 25

Ever ything You Ever Wanted to Know About Gumbo BY JULIAN BRUNT Gumbo is perhaps the most iconic dish of the Southern Gulf Coast, and I doubt anyone with knowledge of this Southern food culture would disagree. It is most often associated with Creole and Cajun cultures, but over the years, it has become so popular that it can be found almost anywhere. I’m fond of saying gumbo isn’t a recipe, it’s an opinion. Recipes, techniques and even basic concepts vary so widely it is probably the most argued over Southern dish of all time, with heated debates raging over every aspect of gumbo making, from the Holy Trinity to the roux. So, where did this iconic dish come from? Many people think its origins are in French bouillabaisse, the famous seafood stew from Marseille. I have been telling the story of the lonely Frenchman from Marseille who invented gumbo for years, although I cannot speak to the veracity of the story. Then again, if it is a good story, it doesn’t matter, does it? The story goes like this: this Frenchman lived on the Louisiana Coast and was homesick for his father’s bouillabaisse. His father was a fisherman, and after selling the day’s catch, what was leftover was turned into a stew for the hungry fisherman and crew on the beach, bouillabaisse. Our Frenchman did the best he could to replicate his father’s recipe with what he could find, but there certainly wasn’t any fennel, and he didn’t recognize any of the local fish, but what resulted was the prototype of modern gumbo. Good story, right? In fact, gumbo came to us from many places besides Marseille’s vaunted bouillabaisse. It came to us from Africa and the okra that slaves brought with them into bondage. Ki ngombo is the term for okra in the Central Bantu dialect of West Africa. The dried sassafras leaves that were once popular to use as a thickener in gumbo came from the Native Americans that sold it in the French Market in New Orleans. The Holy Trinity, a combination of onion, bell pepper and celery, is related to not only the French mirepoix, but also the Spanish sofrito. So, our beloved gumbo is truly an international dish. Let’s get on to actually learning how to make a good gumbo. It is a daunting recipe to many cooks, but if you take your time, one step at a time, and never, never take any shortcuts, you will do just fine. So, what are the basics? It’s pretty simple, the Holy Trinity (onions, bell pepper and celery), a good stock, sausage, sometimes chicken, seafood of your choice and the booger bear to so many, a good dark roux.  26 • October/November 2021

Let’s start with the roux, which is of course French. The French have four types of roux, white, blond, brown and dark brown, but a gumbo roux is far darker than the French dark brown. When I teach a gumbo class, I tell the class that if they want to learn how to make a gumbo roux, make a roux and burn it. Now back up three or four minutes, and you will have it just right.

The vegetables are pretty simple: just chop and sauté, but I like to cook them for at least 20 minutes. I want them to almost disappear—the flavor is intensified the longer you cook them. Think of the difference between a lightly sauteed onion and an onion fit for French onion soup. It really is a big deal. The stock is perhaps the only place where a tiny shortcut can be made. Buy commercial chicken stock, roast 4 to 6 chicken thighs, de-bone them and add the bones to the stock, along with any vegetable trimmings you might have, now simmer for an hour. I like to season my stock simply with Tony Chachere’s Creole Seasoning and red pepper flakes.  The combination of protein is up to you, but I use Conecuh sausage, roasted chicken thighs and shrimp. I also like duck and oysters in a gumbo. But gumbo really is a leftover kind of recipe, and you can make a good gumbo out of almost anything you have on hand. I have heard stories that the poor folks that lived in Biloxi’s Point Cadet, the old seafood district, used hot dogs when there was nothing else to use. But I do not recommend it.  Just as in the making of the stock, my basic seasonings for gumbo are Tony Chachere’s and red pepper flakes. One point that I think is important, season as you go. Always taste before and after seasoning, never season all at once. Let the gumbo develop slowly, nurture it lovingly and the results will be just as lovely.

Two more tips: this is a one-pot dish. Everything is cooked in the same pot, and the drippings are never wiped out but will add to the depth and flavor of the gumbo. Oil is not only a lubricant but also an ingredient. Use a good quality olive oil in some quantity, and it will make a difference.  Here is the basic recipe: • 1 1/2 cups Conecuh sausage, sliced • 2 bell peppers, chopped • 1 large onion, chopped • 1 cup celery, chopped • 2 cups rice • 4 cups chicken stock • Chicken stock to cover, maybe 6 cups • 1-pound large, peeled shrimp • Equal parts of oil and flour (less than a cup) • Tony’s seasoning and red pepper flakes 1. Sauté the sausage in a little oil until well browned. Remove and set aside. 2. Add the shrimp and cook over high heat in small batches for just one minute. The point is to give the shrimp a little color, not cook them through. Remove and set aside. 3. Add the vegetables and more oil if necessary and cook for 20 minutes.  4. Separately, season the chicken with salt and pepper and roast at 375 F until well browned. Remove, cool and de-bone. Set the meat aside. Add the chicken stock to the bones and skin leftover in the pot and simmer for an hour.  5. In a cast-iron skillet, add the oil and flour, combine well. It will start out lumpy but gradually smooth out. Keep a good eye on the roux, and do not let it burn, stir often. (It will slowly start to take on color, and when it starts to smell nutty, you know you are getting close. Stir, stir, stir at the end. If it darkens too quickly, take it off the stove. If you need to cool it down quickly, place the pot on a tile counter or the floor. It will draw off some of the heat.) When the roux is almost done, take it off the stove, it will continue to cook for a while.  6. Add the stock to the vegetables, bring to a simmer. Taste and season as necessary. Carefully add the roux, it will spatter and bubble. Stir and simmer for 10 minutes. 7. Add the sausage and chicken, simmer for about 30 minutes. 8. While the gumbo simmers, steam the rice and stock for 20 minutes. Fluff as soon as it is ready. Add the shrimp just before the gumbo is served. Notes: If you are a garlic fan, toast the dry rice in garlic butter, then steam per usual. It is delicious! I told you this was an opinion, not a recipe! Use as many local ingredients as you can. I like Two Brooks Farm rice from my friend Mike Wagner’s farm in the Mississippi Delta. Buy your vegetables at a farmer’s market, and buy the freshest shrimp that you can find. edm eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 27

Conservation with Chandeleur Island Brewing Company

BY BRANDI PERRY All images taken by Dori Lowe

ammack and Cain Roberds had always loved good beer and being out on the water on the Mississippi Gulf Coast. Their love for beer started in the 1990s, and that desire to find the best craft beer led them down the road of homebrewing. The idea for Chandeleur Island Brewing was born. But after their contractor business built two breweries in Alabama, it was not long before they realized it was definitely the right time to bring their longtime dream to life. Fast forward to December 2013, and the men had decided to partner up on this dream and bought a historic building in downtown Gulfport. By autumn of 2014, construction was underway, and their dream was slowly becoming a reality. Being contractors, they got the construction work done in about three months and were

28 • October/November 2021

brewing their first beer by years end of 2014. Chandeleur Brewing quickly became a fan favorite not only on the Gulf coast but throughout the state, and for good reason. They are easily making some of the best beer in the southeast, a testament to years of trial and error and the inherent flavors of the Mississippi Gulf Coast. But the Roberds were focused on more than just making good beer. They wanted to give back to the water, marine life, and islands they grew up enjoying. The namesake of the brewing company is a chain of uninhabited barrier islands that stretch approximately 50 miles in the Gulf of Mexico. Created nearly 2000 years ago and named by explorer Pierre Le Moyne d’Iberville when he christened them in 1700, the islands have always been a popular spot for boating and fishing. Fishermen from all over

the country come to the islands to hook one of their worldfamous redfish or speckled trout. Chandeleur Brewing partnered with Mississippi State University’s Marine Fisheries Ecology Program to create a beer that can give back with every purchase. The result was Shark Tracker Wheat Ale that is perfect to fight that summertime heat. Every purchase helps support the Great Hammerhead Shark Tracking efforts in the Gulf of Mexico. It is safe to say there is not a more recognizable shark in the gulf than the hammerhead. These amazing sea creatures make round-trip migrations each year that total 2,000 miles. Sadly, these sharks are considered critically endangered, and their population in the United States is currently unknown. That is where Chandeleur Brewing comes in: a portion of the proceeds from the Shark Tracker beer supports hammerhead satellite tagging projects which will provide critical data for future conservation and management. To say the brewery and the brother are dedicated to conservation would be an understatement because the hammerhead tracking is not the only collaboration they invest in. The brewery also partners with the Mississippi Aquarium and has released a

Conservation Beer Series. There are only seven species of sea turtles in the world, and most of them are threatened with extinction. One such turtle is Kemp’s Ridley. The Kemp’s Conservator Munich Dunkel is a beer that is fighting for these beautiful turtles. Proceeds from their sales will go directly towards the Mississippi Aquarium’s research and conservation efforts for the Kemp’s Ridley. The second brew in the conservation series was Croctober Fest Marzen Lager. There are 24 species of crocodiles in the world, and many of them are critically endangered. In the southeast, the American alligator was a success story as far as conservation goes. The American crocodile can be found around south Florida and continues to be an endangered and vulnerable species. There is no doubt that Chandeleur Island Brewing is producing the best beer on the coast. Regardless of what your beer preferences are, you can find it in their taproom. Located less than a quarter-mile from the same waters that inspired the tastes, smells and relaxed feels that the brewery exhibits, their taproom menu truly has something for everyone. Lucky You (Nitro) is a stout and Irish dry. It’s the coffee that will get

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 29

your motor going. Complete with roasted cacao and a nutty flavor, even non-coffee drinkers love this. A unique addition to Chandeleur’s tap list is hard seltzers. Staycation, Rosieon, Prick Off and Respect top off their unique hard sparkling water. H90 Surfside Pineapple Wheat, Sir Columbus II and Shark Tracker are on tap as their American pale wheat, followed by Elegant Plum as their Scotch Ale. If you enjoy golden ales or IPAs, they have them ready to serve too. One type of beer that is a little more unique than the others is fruited sours. The Lil’ Miss Sour is a tangerine sour ale, while the Don’t Whine-A-Melon is even more unique with watermelon and sea salt as their ingredients. A variety of beers can be found at any time in their cooler that may not be on tap. Even though tours of the brewery are temporarily on hold, there are still many ways that visitors can experience the brewery. Their taproom is always pet and family-friendly, and they are open seven days a week. Each day of the week there

30 • October/November 2021

is a special group that receives a discount as a thank you for all they do. On Mondays, it is Military and First Responders Night, and they received 15% off. Trivia Night is from 6:30 to 8:30 pm. Tuesday is for those amazing teachers, and they also get 15% off. Wednesdays are dedicated to the Service Industry workers and Thursdays to Healthcare Heroes and game night. On Friday, new beers release, and visitors will find live music on Saturdays from 3 to 6 pm and 7 to 10 pm, and on Sundays from 3 to 6 pm. A trip to Gulfport and Chandeleur Island Brewing is a must. Regardless of what beer you prefer, you will find that each has the flavors of the Mississippi Gulf Coast and the hard work. Opened seven days a week, you can visit on weekdays from 1 to 9 pm, Friday from 12 to 10 pm, Saturday from 11 am to 10 pm, and Sunday from 11 am to 7 pm. They are located at 2711 14th Street in Historic Downtown Gulfport. If you have questions before you visit, give them a call at 228-701-9985. edm

• New Reindeer Rink sock skating rink • 45 foot long Snowflake Slide • Interactive Clock Tower • Santa’s Steam Engine • Child sized Post Office

NOV. 22 - JAN. 2

JOIN US IN JACKSON FOR THE ULTIMATE HOLIDAY EXHIBIT NOV. 22 - JAN. 2! • Reindeer Rink sock skating rink • 45 foot long Snowflake Slide • Interactive Clock Tower • Santa’s Steam Engine • Child-sized Post Office

GIVE THE GIFT OF IMAGINATION THIS HOLIDAY SEASON! • MCM Trading Post • Gift Certificates • Memberships

2:00 PM – 4:00 PM

Dates & times subject to change. This project is partially funded through a grant by Visit Jackson.

eat. drink. |MISSISSIPPI • 31 Mississippi Children’s Museum | 2145 Museum Boulevard Jackson, MS 39202 | Phone: 601.981.5469 | mschildrensmuseum.org Email: info@mcm.ms

The History of Po’Boys BY JULIAN BRUNT

he first time I visited New Orleans, I stopped for lunch at a po’boy shop at the River Walk. I ordered a fried shrimp po’boy, and the lady behind the counter asked, “Honey, you want that dressed and pressed?” I had no idea what she was talking about, and so began my fascination with po’boy, which lasts to this very day. If you are as uninformed as I was back then, dressed means with pickles, tomato, lettuce and mayo, pressed means pressed in something like a panini grill.    If you have any affinity for this noble sandwich, then I am sure you have heard the story of the po’boy being invented in New Orleans during a streetcar strike. Local restaurants felt sorry for the striking streetcar drivers and gave the “poor boys” sandwiches on slit open baguettes. It is a curious and fanciful story but patiently not true. Ever heard of a croque monsieur? It dates to 1901, and the famed streetcar strike was in the 1920s, but long before that, the frugal French were splitting crusty baguettes, filling them with good cheese and leftover meats to take to the fields for a farmer’s lunch. The po’boy is far from a NOLA invention. Perhaps its origins are not important, but po’boys are certainly a tradition of the Gulf Coast. Other parts of the country have their favorite sandwich made on French bread or similar roll, like the hero, sub or grinder, but I doubt you will ever find a hero stuffed with soft shell crab or a crab cake and cheese for that matter. The po’boy has adapted to the local micro food cultures wherever they are found, so what you find in a po’boy in Biloxi (where I live), and what you find in one from Scott, Louisiana (which would almost certainly be boudin, as Scott has three of the most famous boudin makers in the south with a quarter of a mile of each other), will be quite different. Po’boys also share the characteristic of being much argued over. Perhaps the hottest topic is the kind of bread to use. Leidenheimer is probably the most famous in NOLA, but several smaller bakers are popular in neighborhoods all over the city. One of my favorites is Don Phuong, a Vietnamese baker (and restaurant) located in the Vietnamese neighborhood called Versailles. The Mississippi Gulf Coast has several bakers that are quite good too. Magic Maid has been around for years and has a strong following. Le Market in Biloxi’s old Point Cadet neighborhood (which was a Vietnamese neighborhood before Hurricane Katrina), is wildly popular, but I am a fan 32 • October/November 2021

of seriously crusty bread. Henry’s Café and Bakery in D’Iberville is my favorite. No matter where you buy your bread, you can choose a long baguette and cut it down to size or buy a po’boy loaf (related to the French baton), which does just as well. It is another personal choice. As I have already alluded, po’boys differ by location, geospatial like, but many folks stick their noses up at po’boy ideas from other areas. I find glory in all po’boys (or most) but do think that Biloxi has some particularly good ideas. There used to be a local restaurant called Rosetti’s that made two huge contributions. First was the po’boy press. Something like a panini grill, that pressed the po’boy and toasted it at the same time. I would never get a po’boy that was not pressed (I guess I am opinionated!). The other notable contribution was the invention of the crab cake and cheese po’boy. A fellow came in one night and was in a hurry. He asked for a po’boy made with a crab cake and melted cheese. The owner of Rosetti’s did not know the guy’s name but he knew he was from Vancleave, so for years, that’s what this special was called, the Vancleave. The fried shrimp po’boy is always the bestseller, maybe fried oysters come next, but for me, the best of the best is the pot roast beef po’boy, covered in gravy and a serious mess to eat, but amazingly good. Quave Brother’s in D’Iberville makes the best, but Po-Boy Express in Ocean Springs is also stunningly good. Good enough that they make two gallons of gravy a day. Po-Boy Express also makes an extremely good roast beef, gravy and shrimp po’boy. Pirates Cove in Pass Christian has been around for a long time and has a huge following, as does Desporte's Seafood in Biloxi. BB's in Ocean Springs is another favorite, and several gas stations serve famous po’boys on the Mississippi Coast, too, like Fayard's. Po’boys are so popular in southern Mississippi that there is no way I could list them all.          Sandwich lovers from other parts of the country might disagree, but I am of the opinion that there is not a better sandwich anywhere. Combine crusty French bread, tender and juicy roast beef and gravy, or perfectly fried, still juicy Gulf oysters, lettuce, tomatoes, pickles and lots of mayo, and you will have a delight like no other. edm

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eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 33

From Mississippi to Beyond Brandt Cox: On the Cutting Edge BY KATHY K. MARTIN

randt Cox’s culinary path was paved with a few roadblocks and detours, but it ultimately led him to a career as a chef and an entrepreneur serving the culinary community called CoutelierNOLA. Coutelier is a French word for “cutlery workshop,” and Cox says that the name is a way to show respect to the French heritage of New Orleans and his French culinary training. Cox and his partner, Jacqueline Blanchard, opened the flagship shop in New Orleans about six years ago. The shop provides an array of professional knives, sharpening stones, honing rods and other fine kitchen tools and accessories for restaurant chefs and home cooks alike. CoutelierNOLA resides in a purple-colored building with a bright orange door in the historic Carrollton and Riverbend neighborhood. They also opened a second shop in Nashville in 2018. Their motto is “Serious cooks need serious tools,” so their mission is to offer an accessible, friendly and informative knife shop that helps demystify much of the misinformation regarding Japanese versus German/Western knives. “We essentially wanted to create a culinary candy shop, filled with all of our favorite tools, cookbooks and knives, and be a one-stop shop for culinary professionals,” Cox says. They were both tired of ordering knives online and being disappointed by the poor quality, fit and finish, as well as the lack of customer service or ability to hold and feel the product before buying it. “Your knife is the most essential tool in your entire kit. You use it all day, every day. It’s pivotal that this tool functions properly, feels comfortable and is reliable,” explains Cox. He believes that it’s also extremely important to have the knife professionally sharpened, edged and serviced when needed. “Just as important as a paintbrush is to an artist or a hammer is to a carpenter, the knife is the same for a chef.” Growing up in Oxford from sixth grade through college graduation at Ole Miss, Cox says that his Southern upbringing, especially his grandmother, shaped his passion for cuisine. He worked alongside her as she spent her later years as a waitress at a country restaurant. He recalls the salad bar adorned with black kettles of daily soups, meat and three vegetable options, and a menu featuring fried chicken, country ham with red-eye gravy, chicken-fried steak and meatloaf. “As a young child, my main responsibility was to stay out of the way, but soon I found myself filling ketchup and steak sauce bottles and salt and pepper shakers. I even helped vacuum the floor in the evenings to pick up all the crumbs.” As he grew up, his interests shifted more to sports, school and girls, he says, but by his sophomore year at Ole Miss, food found him again as he was changing majors and trying to figure out what he wanted to do. He decided to pursue a degree in history but found that he was spending more time watching

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Coutelier’s Konosuke knife, some Sakai, Japan. $220 the “Food Network” on TV and dreaming about new recipes to try. “The big breakthrough happened almost by accident,” says Cox when he decided to study abroad in 2004. His roommate, Scott Dessells, was an accomplished pastry chef who took him along on pastry journeys across Paris and later to Belgium and Holland to complete the culinary adventures that summer. When he returned, Dessells helped him land his first kitchen job in Oxford. “Before I knew it, I was a 22-year-old head chef of a restaurant on the town square.” He moved to New York in 2008 to attend the French Culinary Institute, where he graduated top of his class and where he also became part of the first staff of the renovated Townhouse Restaurant in the city’s upper east side. He moved to New Orleans a year later to work with renowned chefs John Besh and Michael Gulotta at Restaurant August. He met Jacqueline there and became schooled in Cajun and creole cooking since she grew up in Louisiana and was the executive sous chef and also his boss there. After working as the opening sous chef of Borgne restaurant and Monsieur Benjamin in San Francisco, he returned to New Orleans. The couple shares many interests in music, travel and a sense of culinary adventure. They’ve traveled the globe together, but their biggest adventure was when they took off work for five weeks to visit Southeast Asia, where they toured Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Singapore and Japan. “For the first time in my life, I truly realized the difference between vacation and travel. It was in no way easy, but that trip would forever have a

lasting impact on my culinary tastes, my outlook on life, my sense of personal self, and my perspective on the world around me,” says Cox. Since that initial trip, the couple has returned to Japan numerous other times to solidify accounts and strengthen relationships with the craftspeople there in order to provide the highest quality products at their shops. When Cox isn’t working or traveling, he enjoys making a pot of chicken and andouille gumbo, which was the first real dish he ever cooked on his own. He also makes homemade chicken and dumplings and creates dishes from his garden using okra, eggplant and peppers, which he cuts with his personal chef ’s knife, always sharpened and ready to go. Knife Tips for Home Cooks from Brandt Cox: 1. Never put your knives in the dishwasher. Not ever. No exceptions. High temperatures and high-pressure washers can de-temper your edge, bend the steel, and completely ruin the handle. All knives should be hand-washed and hand-dried. 2. Never cut through bones (only cut through ligaments and joints). When cleaning fish and meat, always cut around the bones. 3. Never cut through frozen or partially thawed food. This can cause chipping along the edge of the knife. 4. Wash your greens and vegetables before you cut them. Cutting dirty vegetables can force the dirt into the food while being cut. Also, small pieces of sand or gravel can cause significant chipping along the edge of your knife. 5. Always cut with a sharp knife. A dull blade can force more bacteria into your food. It can also slip off what you are cutting and injure yourself. 6. When you accidentally cut yourself with a dull knife, it also forces more bacteria into the wound and can cause infection. Cuts made with a sharp blade also heal at a rate over twice as fast. 7. It is more nutritious to cut with a sharp knife. A freshly-cut vegetable should appear dry after being cut. This process

damages the least amount of cellular structure in the food, keeping the necessary nutrition inside the food you consume and not spreading all over your cutting board. If you are cutting herbs and your cutting board turns green, your knife is not sharp enough. A quick home experiment: cut an apple with an old, dull knife. Then cut the other side of the same apple with a very sharp knife. The side cut with the dull knife will turn brown, oxidize and go bad at a MUCH faster rate than the one cut with a sharp knife (it may not oxidize much at all). Learn more about CoutelierNOLA at couteliernola.com, or call 504-475-5606. edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 35

{ monthly recipe }

Blistered Tomato and Cheese Skewers with Balsamic Glaze and Basil Oil BY ROBYN LINDARS OF GRILLGIRL.COM PHOTOS BY CLAY GOSWICK FOR MASTERBUILT

hey say that necessity is the mother of all inventions. After searching for halloumi, the grilling cheese that hails from Cyprus with no luck, I decided to try its less expensive cousin, Queso de Freir, and magic happened. While Queso de Freir is usually used for frying in many Latin dishes because of its high melting point, this same attribute makes it great for grilling, much like halloumi. And what is more exciting than grilled cheese on a stick? Discovering that they sell it at Walmart on the cheap, with the added bonus that EVERYONE loves this recipe! By simply slicing the cheese and putting them onto skewers, you end up with the most amazing cheese on a stick that magically transforms when it hits the grill. Pairing the grilled cheese with blistered tomatoes and an arugula salad elevates this dish, but it is great with just the grilled cheese and a drizzle of balsamic if you are looking to streamline for tailgating. The sweetness of the balsamic glaze pairs perfectly with the saltiness of the cheese making each bite an epic sensory experience. Robyn Lindars is the “GrillGirl” behind GrillGirl.com and GrillGirlr Magazine, available on newsstands nationally. Robyn is a recipe developer, content creator and publisher who encourages women to get behind the grill. She just launched a craft BBQ rub and cocktail rimmer called “Sunshine State of Mind” with notes of Kaffir lime, granulated honey, himalayan salt and coriander. She has 12 grills and counting. Robyn is a Florida gal, but was born in Tupelo, MS. Give her a follow on instagram or facebook @grillgirlrobyn. edm

BLISTERED TOMATO AND CHEESE SKEWERS Ingredients: • Skewers • 1 16 oz packet Queso de Freir- available in the Latin section at your local grocery store • 1 large bunch basil • 1 cup olive oil • 2 garlic cloves

• Balsamic glaze • 1 pint cherry tomatoes • 4 cups arugula • ¼ cup high heat cooking oil such as peanut or avocado for coating the grill grates • Bamboo skewers

Directions: 1. Slice Queso de Freir into ½ inch thick squares and place on pre-soaked bamboo skewers. Thread the tomatoes on the skewers or use a grill pan. 2. With a stick or immersion blender, combine the olive oil, basil and garlic to form a puree. 3. Prepare the grill for medium direct heat, about 350 degrees. Using a paper towel or a brush, coat the grill grates with a

bit of oil so the cheese does not stick. 4. Grill the skewers until char marks have formed, flipping once char marks have been achieved on the first side. 5. Remove from the grill once char marks have been obtained. Place the cheese on a bed of arugula and add the tomatoes to the arugula salad. Drizzle the salad and tomatoes with the basil oil and then add a touch of balsamic glaze over the cheese skewers.

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{ mississippi made }

Perfecting Mealtime with Robert St. John Seasonings

BY SUSAN MARQUEZ

ny good cook will tell you that the proper seasonings make the dish. When the seasonings are right, the food is always good. Restauranteur Robert St. John has perfected the seasonings used in his restaurants. For 33 years, he’s overseen the recipes that come out of the kitchens in his Hattiesburg, Mississippi, restaurants that include Crescent City Grill, Mahogany Bar, Branch, Tabella, Ed’s Burger Joint, The Midtowner and El Rayo Tex-Mex. “I was kind of thrown into the kitchen,” he laughs. “On the opening night of my first restaurant, The Purple Parrot, I had to fire my chef. He had been drinking beer in the kitchen all day and was drunk as could be. I ended up cooking because there was no one else to do it. During that first year, I developed the seasoning mixes for the restaurant, and we still use the exact recipes in all our restaurants today. That includes our creole seasoning as well as seasonings for steak, poultry and vegetables.”

St. John has developed other seasoning mixes that will roll out this fall. There will be a Tex-Mex mix inspired by his travels while researching to develop his latest restaurant, El Rayo Tex-Mex. “We always did a southwestern seasoning when we did features at the other restaurants,” he says. “That’s now what we use to season all of the proteins at El Rayo.” St. John is also reintroducing a barbecue rub that was developed in the mid-1990s. In the past, St. John has marketed his Bloody Mary mix, margarita mix, rimming salts and hot chocolate mix. “We are ramping that back up again,” he says. The signature hot chocolate mix is sold in a 13-ounce package. The label claims that the hot chocolate mix is “really, really rich.” Another popular item that has been sold in the past is St. John’s grandmother’s pancake mix. “That was really popular, and it made some mighty fine pancakes. We may look at putting that out again.” The seasonings have been out of stock over the summer due to supply issues. “We are talking with a company in Pearl to produce the product,” says St. John. “We like to support businesses in Mississippi, and we want what we offer to be made in Mississippi.” The seasonings should be back in production by the end of September, just in time for the holidays. For more information, visit www. robertstjohn.com. edm

By popular demand, the seasonings are available for home cooks to purchase. They are available online and in the Crescent City Grill and El Rayo in Hattiesburg, as well as in several retail outlets around the state. The seasoning mixes come packaged in five-ounce tins that look great in any kitchen. The creole seasoning is ideal for flavoring soups, salads, flours and gravies as well as meat of any kind, including seafood. The steak seasoning is great for steak, hamburger and all cuts of beef. The poultry seasoning can be used on chicken cooked any way from grilled, baked broiled or roasted. It’s also excellent for duck or turkey. And the veggie seasoning can be used on all vegetables, whether grilled, baked, broiled or roasted. It can even take the place of good ol’ salt and pepper. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 37

{ restaurant spotlight }

Hub City Hotdogs and History: Coney Island Café BY BRANDI PERRY All images taken by Dori Lowe

n downtown Hattiesburg stands a very unassuming building that at first glance can be easily ignored. But locals and tourists alike come to the Hub City to see what all the fuss is about at Coney Island Café. What they find is a historic eatery with a storied past that nearly has a cult following. Coney Island Café, at 400 North Main Street, is one of the most iconic restaurants in the state and the one that has been selling hot dogs longer than any other restaurant in Mississippi. The café’s hot dogs are unique because they come with chili being their main topping, followed by pickles. The combination of their tangy homemade chili and the saltiness of the pickles set this hotdog aside from any you will find in the Magnolia State. The mustard and onions accentuate the delicious uniqueness of the meal, leaving visitors feeling as if they were eating something that had been served for many years, and they could not be more correct. But the hot dogs are

only the beginning of their extensive and delicious menu. Opened originally as a fruit stand, this renowned blast from the past diner has been around since 1923. Arthur Fokakis, who came to the United States from Greece in 1919, operated the business as a fruit stand until he transitioned it to become a short-order café that served hot dogs, hamburgers and homemade curly fries for breakfast. The menu has not changed much since that first meal was served, and for the regulars, they are perfectly fine with this. Even more amazing than their longevity and delicious foods is the fact that the Fokakis family has owned it since day one. Sadly, there was a time when the future of the café was unknown. Third-generation owner Billy Fokakis closed the restaurant when he received his diagnosis of cancer. It was the first time in 94 years that the restaurant stood in the dark. Even though locals were aware of his condition, they were still shocked and saddened to see the doors closed and locked 38 • October/November 2021

and the future of the café hanging in the balance. Until that heartbreaking day, Billy had not missed a day of work since taking over the business from his father in 1984. That closed door represented 33 years of 6 am to 3 pm every weekday. That was not only a nod to the dedication to the family to provide a delicious and consistent product to the residents of Hattiesburg, but also the love and passion he had for the customers and employees. Remarkably, the café did not stay dark for long before Robert St. John, a regular at the café and restaurant owner himself, asked his restaurant group, New South, to figure out a way they could help. They decided on a fundraiser to help pay Fokakis’ medical expenses. The plan was simple: the group would host three meals in one day at the restaurant and host a concert in the parking lot. No one could have been prepared for the response of locals, regulars and even out-of-towners flocking to downtown Hattiesburg to help a man they had never met. Sadly, Billy lost his battle not long after the event, and the future of Coney Island Café was unknown. It did not take long for Billy’s children Kayla and BJ to decide what they must do. The lights came back on, the doors unlocked and the fourth generation Fokakis’ are running out of food every day no matter how many customers they prepare for. You can’t miss the turn of the century building with the University of Southern Mississippi mural in Historic Downtown Hattiesburg. However, it’s when you enter the door, and you are instantly hit with nearly 100 years of memories, flavors and hospitality you realize the reason for their longevity. The welcome you will receive from the staff and BJ or Kayla is something you will not find in many places. The hamburgers are cooked on a well-seasoned griddle that allowed the edges of the hand-formed meat to have a nice crispy crust. Even though it is the hotdog that everyone flocks here for, it is important to note that their burger is one of 33 that have made Visit Hattiesburg’s HattiesBurger Trail, a culinary tourism nod to some of the best hamburgers in the Hub City. The old-fashioned cheeseburger with chili will take you back to yesteryear with a simply unmatched flavor. The homemade Curly “Q” fries have stood the test of time and should be a required order from everyone that enters the restaurant. Regardless of what you order, the flavor brings back memories of your childhood and the old-time diner that may

have called your hometown home. These unique and now rare locations contain all the flavors of a community, from the people to the history and beyond. The nostalgia that embraces this restaurant must be experienced. From the historic photographs to the unique menu items, this spot must be on your bucket list. If Coney Island Café can teach us one thing, it would be that you never know what you have until it is gone. There was a very real possibility that this historic restaurant would not get to experience its 100th anniversary and even though everyone is aware that life throws some strange curveballs, it seems as though this centennial will actually come to fruition. With the fourth generation going strong to keep the café everything it is known for, there is no doubt that the love, hard work and spirit of the past generations are pushing them to many more anniversary celebrations. Coney Island Café is located at 400 Main Street in Historic Downtown Hattiesburg. Serving breakfast and lunch, visitors can experience it every weekday from 6 am to 2 pm. If you need to get in touch with them before visiting, please call 601-582-8513. After one visit, we can guarantee you will be counting down the days until you can visit the restaurant again. edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 39

Dolce Gelato Treats: Focusing on the Classics

BY JAY REED

olce. It’s the Italian word for “sweet.” And what’s the sweetest thing ever to come out of Italy? If the answer that comes to your mind is, “my grandmother,” I’m not here to argue. I don’t know her, but I’m sure she’s delightful. But is she creamy, too? And really cold? Because I’m talking about something else: the Italian word for “frozen,” which would be “gelato.” Dolce also happens to be the name of Starkville’s newest place to get something sweet, frozen and creamy. In what is becoming a trend in Starkville, as well as other local business corridors across the state, a historic building was repurposed and renovated on Main Street. It’s owned by the Masonic Lodge, but most people in the area know it as the old Rex Theatre, which operated for decades beginning in the early 1930s and was Starkville’s first air-conditioned building. Most of the current space is occupied by the Glo company, which approached local business owners Robbie and Bonnie Coblentz about putting a small business in the front corner, where the Rex box office used to be. With multiple ties to the culinary community and the broadcast media world, they considered a variety of possibilities but the dimensions of the space—big enough to serve and seat, but not quite big enough for a kitchen—narrowed their options. After lots of thought, brainstorming and consultations they concluded that a gelato shop with a movie theme would fit the playbill nicely. The next step was to find a source for the frozen sweetness, and a series of random events led both Robbie and Bonnie to Hugh Balthrop and his company, Sweet Magnolia Gelato. The idea of serving a Mississippi-based small batch product appealed to them, and after taste-testing a few of Sweet Magnolia’s offerings, it was an easy decision.

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The current menu at Dolce is simple but growing. They keep about a dozen different flavors in the freezer all the time, served by the scoop. A few classics and local favorites are stalwarts, such as Fior de Latte (a traditional sweet cream), chocolate, honey bourbon, banana pudding, espresso chip and peanut butter cup. The rest of the spots rotate among dozens of Sweet Magnolia options like blueberry cheesecake, pistachio, red velvet cake, or Stracciatella (vanilla with slivers of dark chocolate). Plus, they try to keep a couple of flavors of sorbet such as lemon, strawberry, pineapple or raspberry. Toppings are simple, too: dark chocolate shavings, mini chocolate chips, graham cracker crumbs, whipped topping, chocolate and caramel sauces, and brown butter bits (an exclusive showing).

with whipped topping and graham cracker crumbs called to mind Robbie’s favorite lemon icebox pie. Ms. Mary’s pound cake gelato topped with sliced fresh strawberries and whipped topping served as a frozen version of strawberry shortcake. A gelato panini recipe—a scoop encased in a brioche bun, heated in a specialized press—is under development. And if you can’t get enough in the shop, pints are available to take home. For those into the details, the difference between gelato and ice cream is essentially three-fold. Gelato has less butterfat, less air and is generally served at a slightly warmer temperature. This trio of distinctions leads to a velvety texture, a flavorful bite yet doesn’t necessarily melt faster. Sorbets are dairy-free (usually just fruit and sugar) while classic sherbet recipes have milk or cream. Dolce has both indoor and outdoor seating and lots of windows, perfect for watching the comings and goings on Starkville’s Main Street while enjoying a scoop, shake, or special treat. Movie posters from the Rex Theatre era line the walls, and a display of vintage movie cameras from Robbie’s personal collection fills a corner. A classic dessert in a classic building. Sweet. Dolce Gelato Treats is located at 101 West Main Street in Starkville. Closed Sunday and Monday, this shop is open the rest of the week from 2 pm to 9 pm, or until 10 pm on Friday and Saturday. edm

They can take any flavor in the freezer and make a classic milkshake—for sorbets, they add Sprite or lemonade. The historic location of the shop also inspired a list of Movie Milkshakes such as The Maltese Falcon (chocolate with malt), My Fair Berry (strawberry with mini chocolate chips), Viva Stark Vegas (banana pudding and peanut butter chip, thank you very much), and Chitty Chitty Bang Bang (vanilla with a “bang” of espresso). They also offer an affogato, which is a scoop of gelato “drowned” (another Italian language lesson) in a shot of espresso. When certain varieties come along, they essentially beg to be incorporated into weekend specials, layering on the built-in flavor profile. For instance, the lemon buttermilk gelato served eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 41

{ from the bookshelf }

“Best of Thanksgiving: Recipes and Inspiration for a Festive Holiday Meal” by Williams-Sonoma Article By Paige McKay White

ne of the biggest food-centered holidays of the year is upon us, and it is finally time to start thinking about what to prepare for this year’s Thanksgiving feast. Whether you’re hosting a dinner for the whole family or attending a smaller gathering, Williams-Sonoma's Best of Thanksgiving cookbook is full of all kinds of appetizers, main courses, sides and desserts for the perfect Turkey Day feast. Before diving into the recipe portion of this cookbook, Best of Thanksgiving opens up with tips for setting the scene for a successful dinner and timeline tips for staying on track with preparation, which is helpful to any rookie or seasoned chef. Once you gather your thoughts and begin to plan your Thanksgiving Day menu, kick things off with a pre-dinner cocktail like a Maple-Bourbon Smash, Sparkling Apple Punch or Pomegranate Gin Fizz. Along with drinks, snack on appetizers from this chapter like Shrimp Bisque, Mushroom Turnovers and Arugula Salad with Goat Cheese and Pecans. A staple to any Thanksgiving table is stuffing, and this book is full of all kinds of variations of the classic dish. In the “Stuffings & Breads” chapter, find recipes like Spicy Cornbread Stuffing, Oyster and Mushroom Stuffing, Focaccia Stuffing with Chestnuts, Bacon and Apples, Cheddar Chive Biscuits and Sweet Potato Biscuits with Honey Butter. Don’t fill up on just bread, though, because everyone knows that side dishes are arguably one of the best parts of Thanksgiving. “Sides” in Best of Thanksgiving include dishes like Candied Sweet Potatoes, Brussels Sprouts with Caramelized Shallots, Tangy Braised Greens and Honey Roasted Spiced Carrots. Every dinner table needs sauces, and the “Gravies & Relishes” chapter has just that. Find recipes like Classic Turkey Gravy, Giblet Gravy, Herbed Citrus Gravy, Port-Spiked Cranberry Sauce and Sweet Onion Marmalade. These will pair perfectly with proteins and side items on your Thanksgiving table. After dinner, leave room for dessert because Best of Thanksgiving is full of sweet treats. Finish off your meal with

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Classic Pumpkin Pie, Pecan Pie, Apple Crumb Pie, Pumpkin Cheesecake, Boozy Ice Cream, Cranberry Sorbet or Warm Gingerbread with Brandy Sauce. After dinner is over and all the extra family members have returned home, you will more than likely have leftovers. Thankfully, Best of Thanksgiving even includes a chapter on how to use your leftovers and give them life in the days after Thanksgiving. Put your leftover turkey to use and whip up a Turkey, Onion and Cheddar Panini, or a Turkey Panini with Blue Cheese and Chutney, Turkey Banh Mi, or even a Turkey with All the Trimmings Sandwich. If you serve wine with dinner, Best of Thanksgiving even has a chapter on wine pairings at the end of the recipe portion of the book. Matching a bottle of wine with all of the flavors of a Thanksgiving meal can be difficult, so Best of Thanksgiving offers different suggestions for different courses. Following the wine pairing tips section, you can find tips on how to prepare and cook different kinds of turkey, such as frozen or fresh, as well as tips on how to make gravy and how to cut the turkey for serving. The thought of taking on hosting a Thanksgiving meal can be intimidating, but with the tips and recipes from this cookbook, it can be done with ease. Find Best of Thanksgiving online at Amazon or at Barnes and Noble. edm

Image from Williams-Sonoma.com

PECAN PIE

BASIC PIE DOUGH (FOR A SINGLE CRUST PIE)

• 1 recipe Basic Pie Dough for a single-crust pie (see recipe below), shaped into a disk and chilled • 3 large eggs • 3/4 cup dark corn syrup • 2/3 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar • 1/4 cup light molasses • 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and slightly cooled • 1 tablespoon Kahlua or other coffee-flavored liqueur • 1/4 teaspoon Kosher salt • 1-1/2 cups halved pecans • Whipped cream for serving, optional

• 1-1/4 cups all-purpose flour • 1 tablespoon sugar • 1 teaspoon Kosher salt • 1/2 cup cold, unsalted butter, diced • 3-4 tablespoons ice water

1. Remove the dough disk from the refrigerator and let it stand at room temperature for 5 minutes. Unwrap the dough and place it on a lightly floured work surface. Roll out the dough into a 12-inch round. Transfer the dough round to a 9-inch pie pan or dish. Using a paring knife, trim the dough edges, leaving a half-inch overhang. Fold the dough under itself to form a rim and flute the edges decoratively.

1. In a food processor, combine the flour, sugar and salt and pulse to mix. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles a coarse meal, 10 to 15 pulses. Add the minimum amount of ice water and pulse twice. The dough should hold together when squeezed. If it is crumbly, add more water, one teaspoon at a time, pulsing twice after each addition. 2. Remove the dough from the food processor. Shape the dough into one disk for a single-crust pie. Wrap the dough disk in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least two hours.

2. Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. In a large bowl, whisk the eggs until well blended. Add the corn syrup, brown sugar, molasses, butter, coffee liqueur and salt and whisk until smooth. 3. Scatter the pecans evenly in the pie shell. Pour the egg mixture over the pecans. 4. Bake the pie until the top is browned and the filling is evenly but not firmly set, about 50 minutes. Check the pie after about 40 minutes and cover the edges of the crust with strips of aluminum foil if they are browning too quickly. Transfer the pie to a wire rack and let cool completely before cutting, about two hours. 5. To serve, cut into wedges and top each wedge with a dollop of whip cream if desired. Note: This pie is good warm, but it is so soft right after baking that it is difficult to slice. If you want to serve warm slices, let the pie cool completely, cut it, then rewarm the individual slices in a 300 degrees F oven for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.

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Hallows’ Eve Margarita BY REBECCA FENDING

side from the culturally acceptable excuse to play dress-up, my favorite part of Halloween are the cute and festive snacks and drinks. And there’s no shortage of online recipes for genius hosting treats. Whether you’re looking for a way to make spooky mummified Oreos or need a creatively colorful drink that’s sure to dazzle the adults, a quick Google search (or a flip through our magazine, wink) will have you creating a shopping list in no time. When it comes to festive cocktails, orange is the easiest and still most appealing color, in my opinion. As interesting as a black martini or green concoction in a hurricane glass is, the vibrant color may be a turn-off for some people. Which is why this naturally colored margarita is both celebratory and refreshing while giving you a much-needed vitamin C boost as flu season begins.

Image from Full Circle Feel free to tweak this recipe however you like; if you and your guests are fans of vivid libations, you can always channel your inner mad scientist and experiment with colorful liquors like Blue Curacao or Midori. Or, change the color of the salt on the rim! edm

HALLOWS EVE MARGARITA SERVES 2, MULTIPLY AS NEEDED Materials needed: • Cocktail shaker (or any pourable container with a sealing lid, in a pinch) • Margarita glasses • Zippered baggie Fresh Blackberry Puree: • Coarse salt • Food coloring of your choice • 3 ounces of silver tequila • 1 ounce orange juice • ¾ ounce fresh-squeezed lime juice • 1 teaspoon of agave or honey, to taste • Ice • 3 lime wedges 44 • October/November 2021

1. Start by coloring your rimming salt. Add the coarse salt to a zippered baggie, followed by several drops of your food coloring. Add as little or as much as you want for your desired color. Zip bag and work thoroughly to distribute color. Pour onto a plate in an even layer for rimming. 2. Rim your margarita glasses with a lime wedge. Once rim is thoroughly dampened, dip the rim in the colored salt. Set aside. 3. In your cocktail shaker, add the tequila, orange juice, lime juice and agave, if preferred. Add enough ice to chill the liquid mixture thoroughly. Shake well for 15 seconds. 4. Add fresh ice to your margarita glasses. Strain the mixture into the glasses. Garnish with a fresh lime wedge and serve.

Recipe Index Spiced Pumpkin Dip, 6

Basic Gumbo Recipe, 27

Chocolate Blackberry Jam-Filled Cupcakes, 13

Blistered Tomato and Cheese Skewers, 36

Cookie Moss Topping for Halloween Desserts, 13

Classic Pecan Pie, 43

Praline Pecan Pumpkin Crunch Cake, 22

Basic Pie Dough, 43

Fresh Cranberry Sauce with Bourbon and Vanilla, 22

Hallows’ Eve Margarita, 44

Wild Rice Stuffed Turkey Breast, 22

Ghoulish Oreo Bites, 46

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

www.instagram.com/eatdrinkmississippi eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 45

Mi ssi ssi pp i Fe sti va l Gu i de Fall isn’t just a favorite season for the aesthetic, spices and cooler weather, but also festivals. And in Mississippi, there’s no shortage of various autumn festivals and events. Here are just a few happening all over the state through November. Deep Blues Festival – Clarksdale Kicking off Thursday, October 14, at 8 pm and ending Sunday, October 17, at 4 pm, the Deep Blues Festival is back. Attending blue musicians include Jimbo Mathus, Alvin Youngblood Hart, Gravelroad, Sister Dynamite, The Wilkins Sisters, Left Lane Cruiser and All-Seeing Eyes.

entertainment. The festival will also host eight to ten food vendors from Natchez and neighboring Louisiana to help fuel your hot air balloon fun throughout the weekend. And when you’re not watching the balloons take flight, craft vendors will also attend the festival. Fall crafts, art and jewelry are just some of what vendors will be presenting for sale at the Balloon Festival. The festival is held at the Rosalie Mansion located at 100 Orleans Street in Natchez. For more information, visit natchezballoonfestival.com. CelticFest Mississippi – Brandon

Outside of the festival, enjoy the nightlife, dining and shopping offered in Clarksdale, including the Ground Zero Blues Club. When you can’t get enough of the festival, this club keeps the party going. The Deep Blues Festival will be held at The New Roxy located at 363 Issaquena Avenue, in Clarksdale. Get more information at deepbluesfest.com.

Natchez Balloon Festival – Natchez For kids, young at heart and all ages in between, the 36th annual Natchez Balloon Festival is ready to launch October 15 through 17. There will be morning, afternoon and evening balloon flights, as well as live musical

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Held since 1991, CelticFest has been a local favorite for all things Irish and Scottish. CelticFest Mississippi is a family-friendly traditional music festival. It is presented by the Celtic Heritage Society which works to promote traditional Celtic culture and music in Mississippi. According to the event Facebook page, festival guests can enjoy traditional Celtic music, dance, free workshops, competition Highland games, Gaelic athletics exhibitions, sheepdog demonstrations and animal encounters, vendors and great beer and food. CelticFest MS prides itself on hosting the largest céilí in the South, with hundreds of new and experienced dancers for over three hours of floor abuse!

for O cto ber a n d N ove mb e r CelticFest will be held on October 23 and 24 at Lakeshore Park. The Park is located at 1112 North Shore Parkway in Brandon. For more information and update, visit www.facebook.com/ CelticFestMS.

Delta Hot Tamale Festival – Greenville Calling all tamale lovers: Delta Hot Tamale Festival will be held on October 14 through 16. The three-day festival will feature musicians, local and regional artists, tamale makers, chefs, hot tamale eating contest and more. Although the festival was canceled last year, it has seen numbers of more than 20,000 attendees in years past. This year is sure to be a big one! The Hot Tamale Festival will be hosted by Downtown Greenville at 504 Central Street. Festival hours are 9 am to 5 pm each day. For more information and updates, visit www.facebook. com/DeltaHotTamaleFestival.

Mistletoe Marketplace – Jackson It’s never too early to get in the holiday spirit! With Jackson’s famous Mistletoe Marketplace, guests can shop a number of different merchant and vendor booths while getting ahead with their holiday shopping list. From crafts

to jewelry, or even customized gifts, Mistletoe Marketplace is an exciting local tradition that truly marks the beginning of the holiday season. Not only is this market fun for guests, but it also gives back to the Junior League of Jackson yearround. The Junior League is an organization of women committed to promoting voluntarism, developing the potential of women and improving communities through the effective action and leadership of trained volunteers. Be sure to drop by because this festive market is happening only November 3 through 6 at the Mississippi Trademart Center located at 1200 Mississippi Street in Jackson. Visit www. mistletoemarketplace.com/ for more information.

The Largest Pumpkin Carving in the Gulf South – Hattiesburg On Thursday, October 21, grab your bookrewe and channel your inner Norman Bates (on pumpkins, of course). And, as with the entire month of October, costumes are strongly encouraged. A $10 entry gets you into the competition and a pumpkin. Carving kits will be available to use, but will be shared by all participants, so feel free to bring your own if you’d like. Carving will begin at 5:30 pm and a guest panel of judges will begin making their choices at 7 pm. Judging will be split into categories for youth (11 and under) and adult (12 and over). While power tools (such as Dremels) are permitted, pumpkins carved will these will be entered and judged in a separate “professional level” category. This event will be held at the Keg and Barrel, located at 1315 Hardy Street in Hattiesburg. For more information, search the name of the event on Facebook.

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Chri stmas in the Cit y: Hern ando Dicke ns of a Chri stmas Fe stival All pictures are courtesy of Joey Brent Photography. Although it may not be Christmas time to most people quite yet, it’s still the most wonderful time of the year for the city of Hernando. The Hernando Dickens of a Christmas event takes place each November, and this year is no different. The festivities are set to take place November 13 from 9 am to 5 pm at the Hernando Town Square in conjunction with Hernando’s Christmas Farmers Market. During this festive event, guests can shop at over 20 participating businesses during the highly anticipated Christmas Open House, as a way to get a head start on holiday shopping. Hernando Dickens of a Christmas hosts artists and crafters from near and far, all selling holiday-themed goods. From holiday decorations to holiday treats, anything you may need to celebrate the season can be found on the town square. Not only can you shop until you drop at this holiday event, but the Dickens of a Christmas festival also offers many activities for guests. These include trolley tours of historic Hernando homes, a holiday train display, high-tea, caroling, ornament decorating for

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the kiddos and photograph opportunities with Santa Claus himself! Once children visit Santa, they can write and mail their Christmas letters as they eagerly await the best morning of the year. This event celebrates Christmastime the old-fashioned way. As guests are surrounded by the historic artifices of Hernando, festival volunteers will grace the event while dressed in traditional garb from the mid-1800s. Hoop skirts and top hats galore make the historical entertainment at this event one of a kind for guests. Adding to the historically accurate presentation is live Victorian-era dancing, broom making with Hockaday brooms, spinning, weaving and more by historical crafters and entertainers. Dances such as those from Roger de Coverley, the Viennese Waltz and ballet from The Nutcracker have all been performed by talented volunteers in the past, presenting event guests with an authentic taste of Victorian Christmas festivities. To accompany the performers and dancing, live music of the era will also be played by volunteers. For those who may be self-proclaimed local history buffs, historic carriage tours are available during the Dickens of a Christmas event. These tours parade

guests around downtown Hernando and provide an entertaining learning experience for all ages. Antique cars and agricultural equipment from early 1900s are visible from the carriage ride tours, as well. The carriage rides offer an in-depth look at Victorian living for past residents of Hernando and DeSoto County. Dickens of a Christmas will also have festive wreath making with the Garden Club, storytelling with the Mississippi Humanities Council and gingerbread house making with a local architect, AERC PLLC. For more information, please visit www. cityofhernando.org and search for the Dickens of a Christmas event, or visit the event Facebook page at www.facebook.com/hernandodickens. This event was partially funded by a grant from Visit Mississippi and the Mississippi Hills Heritage Area Alliance.

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Share your recipes!

Ghoulish Oreo Bites

Is there anyone who wouldn’t want a chocolate covered Oreo? These sweet and spooky treats are perfect for any Halloween party, even if it’s just for one. Ingredients: • One package of original Oreo cookies • One package vanilla candy coating

• Food colors (purple, green, black & etc.) • Mini M&M candies

1. Prepare a baking sheet with a layer of wax paper, as well as space in your freezer for the sheet. 2. Place candy coating in a microwave safe bowl. Microwave on high in 30 second increments, stir and keep heating until melted through. 3. Once melted, place in different bowls if you desire to create colorful treats. Color separate bowls as needed.

Do you have a family-favorite dinner recipe? Or a favorite dish that never lasts long at gettogethers? Eat Drink Mississippi wants to feature your recipes in future issues. Please send recipes to info@eatdrinkmississippi.com, or mail them to PO Box 1663, Madison, MS 39130.

4. Take an Oreo and stab into the cream center through the side of the cookie with a fork. Dip into your melted candy coating and lay the treats on the wax paper lined baking sheet. 5. Decorate however you would like: pipe thin lines across the cookies to mimic mummy wraps, sprinkle decorative sugar or sprinkles on still wet candy coating or place mini M&Ms as eyes for your Oreo creatures. 6. Once your desired number of cookies are created, pop the sheet into the freezer and let freeze for at least one hour. Store in refrigerator until ready for use.

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Jay Reed, a graduate of Ole Miss, lives in Starkville where he is a pharmacist by day and a freelance food writer by day off. He is a member of the Southern Foodways Alliance, co-hosts two podcasts and blogs at www.eatsoneate.com.

Ode to the Sweet Potato

BY JAY REED

weet potato, sweet potato, how do I love thee? Let me count the ways. One Potato: We go way back, sweet potatoes and me. One of the strongest taste memories of my childhood is my mother’s take on candied sweet potatoes. The dish wasn’t fancy at all, just slices cooked in sugary syrup till they turned almost to mush but not quite mashed. That’s it. The casserole of holiday fame, with brown sugar, praline pecans, and the like didn’t enter our Thanksgiving menu until a sister-in-law brought a recipe of her own to the table in our adulthood. We kept it simple back in the day, and as far as I’m concerned, it hasn’t been topped. Not even by marshmallows. Two Potato: The oddly shaped orange orbs are local folk. Or at least grown by local folk in the mysteriously productive soil of Calhoun County—particularly, Vardaman, The Sweet Potato Capital of the World. For a season of life, I lived in another Southern state that lays claim to growing the most in the country. That’s all fine and good, but quantity isn’t everything. Mississippi is consistently in the top five sweet potato-producing states in the U.S. That’s a win as far as I’m concerned. Three Potato: I think so highly of them that I once dressed as a Vardaman sweet potato at a Halloween costume party. A few years back, the fine folks at the Southern Foodways Alliance invited attendees at the fall symposium—it happened to fall on Halloween—to come to one of the events in costume. I had a deep orange button-down shirt, earthy brown pants, and a bright green tag I found in the produce section of the grocery store, attesting to the authenticity of the source of that batch of sweet potatoes. I thought it was a very “tasteful” costume. Alas, I won no prize, but I was still proud to represent. Four: They’re sweet yet somehow still loaded with things that are good for you. Outside of fruit and sugar cane, this might be the sweetest plant-based bite around, yet it’s loaded with vitamins and minerals. And fiber. And antioxidants, which will one day be governor, I predict. A sweet bite that helps me live longer? I’m all in. Five Potato: They have their own festival. While it’s true that a plethora of locally grown products have spawned festivals across our state (and for that, we are grateful), the Sweet Potato Festival in Vardaman takes it to another level. Activities are spread over a week and run the gamut from pageants to barbecue. I’ve had the caloric privilege of helping judge the cooking contest a few times, and the imagination of those cooks knows no bounds. Six Potato: Here in Starkville, the Eat Local restaurant group has always been a fan of those Mississippi-grown sweet potatoes. Restaurant Tyler, at minimum, has had Vardaman sweet potato cornbread on the plate lunch menu for many years. And their most recent venture, Humble Taco, developed a sweet potato flour tortilla. Tortillas and taters: these are a few of my favorite things. And that’s just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to the versatility of this veggie. Seven Potato: I am regularly amazed at how the sweet potato stands up in all kinds of dishes, whether sweet or savory. One of my favorites is a vegetarian twist on shrimp and grits, with the shrimp replaced by wedges of sweet potato. If I’m making a Mexican meal, a fallback side is sweet potato salad with black beans. When it comes to dessert, I recently acquired a recipe for mind-blowing sweet potato pie from a work colleague in New Hope. A swirl of mashed sweet potato in your Hoka cheesecake will rock your taste buds. And if you like to blend the savory and sweet, as you should, try Bulldog Burger’s sweet potato fries dipped in their caramel sauce. More! A sweet potato by any other name is… still not a yam. Yams are lovely and have their place at the table, but they are different. Accept it. edm

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eat. drink. MISSISSPPI: October/November 2021 Issue

Articles inside

FROM THE BOOKSHELF: “Best of Thanksgiving”

DOLCE GELATO TREATS: Focusin on the Classics

MISSISSIPPI MADE: Robert St. John Seasonings

RESTAURANT SPOTLIGHT: Coney Island Café

THE ART OF CANNING WITH APRIL MCGREGER

MONTHLY RECIPE: Blistered Tomatoes and Cheese Skewers

FROM MISSISSIPPI TO BEYOND Brandt Cox

THE HISTORY OF PO’BOYS

CONSERVATION WITH CHANDEULER ISLAND BREWING COMPANY

EVERYTHING YOU EVER WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT GUMBO

A LOCAL FOOD NETWORK STAR

THANKSGIVING WITH A TWIST