Eat Drink Mississippi October/November 2018

Grilled Cheese Champions | The Magnolia Dietitian | Cleveland's Octoberfest

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI all about

apples

Oyster Shell Recycling

9

STATE FAIR inspired TREATS

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

MISTLETOE MARKETPLACE November 7-10, 2018 MISSISSIPPI TRADE MART >> JACKSON, MS

WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 7

FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 9

PREVIEW GALA Presented by the Junior League of Jackson

A MORNING OF JAZZ & SHOPPING MARKETPLACE BRUNCH | 8-11 a.m.

Presented by Regions

7-9 p.m. | Walk the Red Carpet Presented by C Spire 7-11 p.m. | Shopping Hours 7-10 p.m. | Silent & Premier Auctions 9 p.m. | Live Auction 7-10 p.m. | Present Pick Presented by Lee Michaels Fine Jewelry

THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 8 A TIME TO BRUNCH & BROWSE MISTLETOE MORNING | 8-11 a.m.

Presented by Trustmark

CONNECT WITH KIRK CAMERON LUNCHEON & STYLE SHOW | 11:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m.

Presented by Mississippi Baptist Medical Center Fashions by Renaissance Featuring Kirk Cameron SMILES OF JOY SANTA SNAPS | 2:30-6:30 p.m.

LET’S GLOW CRAZY! TWEEN FASHION SHOW | 4:30-6 p.m.

Presented by University of Mississippi Medical Center

MISTLE-TEAUX A GIRLS’ NIGHT OUT | 6-8 p.m.

SOMETHING’S BREWING! A NIGHT TO LET THE GOOD TIMES ROLL 8-11 p.m.

Presented by Southern Beverage Co., Inc.

GENERAL SHOPPING HOURS

SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 10

Thursday, November 8 | 11 a.m.-9 p.m.

Friday, November 9 | 11 a.m.-8 p.m.

Saturday, November 10 | 9 a.m.-5 p.m.

OH, WHAT FUN! A CHILDREN’S EVENT | 9:30-11 a.m.

Presented by Ergon

Tickets on sale September 1, 2018. For more information or to order tickets, please visit mistletoemarketplace.com or call 1.888.324.0027.

SMILES OF JOY SANTA SNAPS | 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m.

2 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

POWERED BY

EXPERIENCE STARKVILLE’S BEST SEASON EVER.

Best Place

to Live

August 31-September 2

October 5-7

November 2-4

September 14-16

October 26-28

November 17-18

Fri: Night Market Sat: MSU v. Stephen F Austin Sun: Bulldog Brunch & Browse Fri: Downtown Art Walk Sat: MSU v. Louisiana Sun: Bulldog Brunch & Browse

Fri: unWine Downtown Sat: MSU v. Auburn Sun: Bulldog Brunch & Browse Fri: Pumpkinpalooza Sat: MSU v. Texas A&M Sun: Bulldog Brunch & Browse

September 28-30

Fri: Citywide Tailgate Sat: MSU v. LA Tech (HC) Sun: Bulldog Brunch & Browse Sat: MSU v. Arkansas Sun: Bulldog Brunch & Browse Christmas Open House Cookies with Santa

Fri: Bulldog Bash Sat: MSU v. Florida Sun: Bulldog Brunch & Browse

TH!

E H C .

Y A L P .

P O H S EAT .

EW SOU N ic t n e h t u A e h t ER . LIVE

starkville.org

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 3

Hooray for Happy Hour After a long workday, there’s nothing better than gathering with friends or coworkers for a couple drinks and snacks to wind down and relax with a few happy hour specials. Several Jackson area restaurants make for the perfect place to hang out and sip on discounted drinks and small plates. Check out some of our favorite happy hour spots throughout the capital city.

Apothecary at Brent’s Drugs Located in the back of Brent’s Drugs in Fondren, the Apothecary has been a local favorite for several years. Their happy hour menu is available daily from 5 to 7 p.m. and includes classic cocktails for just $6. Enjoy an Old Fashioned, Moscow Pimm’s Cup Mule, Pimm’s Cup, Dark & Stormy, Sazerac, or house red or white wine. Though the happy hour menu doesn’t include food, there are several small plates for you and your friends to enjoy, including Butterbean Hummus, Bar Nuts, or a Cheese Plate.

Babalu Known for their table-side guacamole and Babaritas, Babalu also has a great social hour menu available Monday through Friday from 3 to 6 p.m. They recently launched a new Flights & Bites menu that includes flights of tequila, sangria, and beer.

Bites include Tacos, Queso Blanco Fries, Babalu’s Best Dips (guacamole, pico de gallo, black eyed pea hummus, and chips), Queso Fries Crab Bites, and other popular Babalu bites. Other drink specials include $4 white or red sangria, $5 house wine, $6 house margaritas, and $4 draft beers. Babalu’s front porch makes the perfect place to hang out after a long work day and enjoy a glass of sangria and guacamole.

Barrelhouse Newer to the Fondren scene, Barrelhouse is a Southern gastro-pub located in the same strip as Campbell’s Bakery.

Complete with a front porch to hang out under, Barrelhouse has quickly become a hot spot for small plates and happy hour specials. Social hour at Barrelhouse features $1 off all draft 4 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

beer, $2 domestics, $3 off select glasses of wine, $4 well drinks, and $5 meatball plates, as well as a daily cocktail special. Head out to Barrelhouse between 3 and 6 p.m., Monday through Friday for social hour, and check their Instagram for specialty cocktails each week.

BRAVO! Italian Restaurant and Bar Social Hour at Bravo is every day from 8 p.m. to close, so no matter what day of the week you and your friends like to meet up, Bravo is always an option. Social Hour features a menu of $5 small plates, wines, and well drinks. Enjoy yummy snacks like Fried Polenta, Baked Marinara, or Bruschetta with your wine or mixed drink, and hang out at the bar or Bravo’s patio in Highland Village.

CAET Wine Bar All the menus at Caet are bursting with flavor, and that also stands true for their happy hour menu. Available Monday through Saturday from 4 to 6 p.m., Caet offers several beers, wines, and cocktails for $5, as well as snacks like Jackson Hot Catfish, Oysters Caet, and Pimento Cheese Toast. Beers include Southern Pecan, Devils Harvest, Suzy B, Jack the Sipper, and Hipster Breakfast, all of which are made in Mississippi.

If you’re looking for a glass of wine, options are sparkling, rose, chardonnay, Spanish red, and pinot noir, and Cocktails include Pimm’s Cup, Old Pimento Cheese Toast Fashioned, Margarita, Lola Cherry Cola Slushi, and Spring Fling, made with Jackson’s own Cathead Vodka. Take a look at their menu, and head to Caet for happy hour after a long workday.

The Manship A Jackson favorite, The Manship not only serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner, but they also offer a weeknight happy hour between 3 and 6 p.m., Monday through Friday. Enjoy $2 off all craft and import beers, $5 glasses of house wine, $5 barrel picks whiskey, 25 percent off large format bombers, and halfprice woodfired pizzas. Spend your afternoon hanging out at the bar or patio at The Manship and chow down on pizza and drinks.

Eat, drink and be soulful in Jackson. The City With Soul.

visitjackson.com

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 5

CONTENTS October/November 2018 Volume 7 Number 6

19 62 in this issue 16 CHEF’S CORNER Mitch McCamey Stays True to His Roots With North Miss. Restaurants

24 THE BIG CHEESES

55 in every issue 8 From the Publisher 10 From Our Readers 13 What's Happening 14 Fabulous Foodie Finds 18 A Taste of Magnolia 63 Dining Guide 70 Events 72 Recipe/Ad Index 74 Till We Eat Again

ON THE COVER: Granny Smith Apple Pie

by Lisa LaFontaine Bynum, page 23

6 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

Wayne County Pair Wins Top Prizes in National Grilled Cheese Competition

28 MISSISSIPPI MADE Billie's Pecans

32 COMMUNITY The Urban 'Sip Spreads the Gospel in Downtown Jackson With Coffee

36 REEF RESTORATION Shell Recycling Program Helps Protect Mississippi's Oyster Industry

40 IN THE BLOGLIGHT The Magnolia Dietitian

42 FRESH FROM THE FARM Something Great Is Brewing in Brookhaven

46 HOW WE ROLL Starkville Family Turns Friendly Favor Into Thriving Business

50 FROM MISSISSIPPI TO BEYOND From the Gulf Coast to the West Coast, Mark Millwood Is Cooking Good

54 FAIR FARE Nine State Fair-Inspired Treats

60 FROM THE BOOKSHELF The Artful Evolution of Hal & Mal's Malcolm White

62 RAISE YOUR GLASS Sparkling Apple Cider Sangria

64 WHERE TO EAT Squeals & Wheels BBQ in Quitman

68 FEATURED FESTIVAL Octoberfest in Cleveland

You decide which Mississippi restaurants have the Best Burger & Steak The Mississippi’s Best Burger contest aims to find the single best beef hamburger and steak served in a Mississippi restaurant.

Help us out by nominating a great tasting burger and/or steak from your favorite restaurant in the state.

the e t ina te! m o o n he sta t 8 01 in t 2 , k 3 a ber est Ste m e ec dB D n y a b r line Burge n o EF Go E B Best

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If your restaurant makes it to the top 5 you could win a gift certificate to dine!

Support the BEEF industry and get others involved by eating more BEEF! The winning restaurants will be awarded a $1000 advertising package in February at the Dixie National by the Mississippi Beef Council.

Mississippi Beef Council 680 Monroe St. Suite A • Jackson, MS 39202 • (601) 353-4520 Sponsored by Mississippi’s Beef Producers through the Beef Checkoff Program eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 7

{ from the publisher }

Fall Means It’s Time for the State Fair

I

t’s fall, y’all....at least that’s what the calendar says. I don’t know about you, but fall is my favorite season of all. No matter what the thermometer may show, there’s always a special feeling in the air once fall arrives.

Aside from high school and college football, one of the best things about autumn in Mississippi is the state fair.

Growing up, I looked forward to it every year. My parents always checked me and my brothers out of school early on whichever day was family night at the fair. The ride from Monticello to Jackson seemed to last for an eternity as our excitement built along the way. After passing through what’s now known as “The Stack” (the convergence of I-55 N. and I-20 E.), my brothers and I would be on the edges of our seats, spying for a glimpse of the double ferris wheel. That sight was a sign that the fun was about to begin.

Once inside the gate at the fairgrounds, my family and I would make a beeline to the biscuit booth for hot, homemade biscuits filled with Blackburn’s syrup. Aside from being free, they’re delicious and just plain hard to beat. While most kids get excited about the rides, I always (and still do) looked forward to the food. I couldn't leave the fair without a shishkabob, chicken-on-a-stick, and a funnel cake. My oldest brother couldn’t pass up the famous Malone’s Taffy. He lives further south now, but still puts in an order for a box with anyone visiting the fair.

John and I continued the annual fair trek with our kids and they seemed just as excited as we did at their age. Like my brother, our daughter has an affinity for the state fair taffy.

While in college, she always demanded a box of taffy be sent to Oxford for her personal consumption. She now lives in New Hampshire, so I’m sure there will be a box stashed in my luggage on our next trip up.

It’s not always feasible to attend the fair each year, but that doesn’t mean you have to miss out on the delicious fare it offers. We’ve found many tasty fair-inspired treats around

q

One of the South’s favorite pastimes - sipping coffee on a porch; and fall is the perfect time for doing just that. the state that can be enjoyed year-round without a trip to the midway (page 54).

When I think of fall, the first food that comes to mind is apples. This time of year, many varieties begin appearing in the produce section of the grocery store and at local farmers markets. As they all vary in flavor and texture, I’m often confused by which one to use in which recipe. If you’re like me, you’ll be glad to see that Lisa Bynum has cleared the confusion in her “All About Apples” (page 21) feature. She also included a recipe for Granny Smith Apple Pie with Cheddar Cheese Crust, which will be a great addition to your Thanksgiving dessert table.

I wish you all the best for a tasty fall and a blessed Thanksgiving.

J.J. Carney Publisher

“So I recommend having fun, because there is nothing better for people in this world than to eat, drink, and enjoy life. That way they will experience some happiness along with all the hard work God gives them under the sun.”

Ecclesiastes 8:15

r

EAT DRINK MISSISSIPPI (USPS 17200) is published bi-monthly by Carney Publications LLC, 296 F.E. Sellers Hwy., Monticello, MS 39654-9555. Periodicals postage paid at Monticello, MS, and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to EAT DRINK MISSISSIPPI, P.O. Box 1663, Madison, MS 39130.

8 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

Share your recipes!

Do you have a family-favorite dinner recipe? Or a favorite dish that never lasts long at gettogethers? Eat Drink Mississippi wants to feature your recipes in future issues. Please send recipes to info@eatdrinkmississippi.com, or mail them to PO Box 1663, Madison, MS 39130.

ZWILLINGfest Celebrate 15 years of The Kitchen Table with spectacular deals from ZWILLING J.A. Henckels!

All October, top selling Henckels Cutlery, Staub Cast Iron & Demeyere Cookware up to 50% off!

Raffle Prizes, demonstrations and more.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 9

{ from our readers }

This is a fantastic magazine that covers all the local events and flavors. I love it!

Patrick Parker Facebook Fan

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MISSISSIPPI J.J. Carney Publisher/Editor John Carney Executive Editor

VENDORS WANTED We are currently seeking magazine vendors in all areas of the state.

If you would like to sell this magazine at your business, call 601-427-5694 or email info@eatdrinkmississippi.com for more information.

Paige McKay Associate Editor Tanya Speaks Account Executive Joe Luca Newsstand Sales Consultant

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DROP US A LINE! Thank you for your interest in this magazine. We would love to hear from you. Please understand that letters submitted become the property of eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI and may be edited for length and clarity. E-mail us at info@eatdrinkmississippi.com, leave a comment on our Facebook page, or write to P.O. Box 1663, Madison, MS 39130.

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10 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

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Looking for more recipes?

Check out our recipe collection online!

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November 3 and 4, 2018 www.PeterAndersonFestival.com

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 11

{contributors} JULIAN BRUNT is a food and culture writer from the Gulf Coast whose roots run more than three hundred years deep in Southern soil. He is deeply concerned with culinary and cultural traditions and thinks no man worth his salt that cannot hold forth in tall tale and willingly endure the heat of the kitchen.

LISA LAFONTAINE BYNUM is a freelance writer from Grenada.

Her work has appeared in several publications in Mississippi. She is a graduate of Delta State University where she received a BA in Marketing and her MBA. In her free time, she enjoys food writing and photography. She currently resides in Brandon.

Photo by Alisa Chapman Photography KELSEY WELLS LAMBERT is a news writer at Lawrence County Press in Monticello. She is a graduate of Southwest Mississippi Community College where she served as editor of The Pine Burr. She earned her Bachelor’s degree in Communications at William Carey University and served as a staff writer and life editor of The Cobbler student newspaper until she became managing editor her senior year. She and her husband reside in the Divide community where she is active in her church and community.

12 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

SUSAN MARQUEZ lives and writes in Madison. She has a degree in Radio-TV-Film from the University of Southern Mississippi and had a long career in advertising and marketing before stumbling into a freelance writing career in 2001. Hundreds of published articles later, Marquez still loves to tell the stories of the interesting people, places, and events throughout the South.

KATHY K. MARTIN is an Ole Miss journalism graduate who currently lives in Collierville, Tennessee with her husband and two children. She works as a freelance writer and chairs her church’s Christian writers group.

PAIGE MCKAY is Associate Editor of Eat Drink Mississippi. She earned a Bachelor’s degree in communication from Mississippi State University and currently lives in Madison. She spent five months in Washington, D.C., as a Legislative and Press Intern for Representative Steven Palazzo. She returned to Mississippi to work for the magazine. In her free time, she enjoys visiting Starkville and trying out new restaurants with friends.

RICHELLE PUTNAM is a Mississippi Arts Commission (MAC) Teaching Artist/Roster Artist (Literary), a Mississippi Humanities Speaker, and a 2014 MAC Literary Arts Fellow. Her YA biography, The Inspiring Life of Eudora Welty (The History Press, April 2014), received the 2014 Moonbeam Children’s Book Awards Silver Medal. She is also the author of Lauderdale County, Mississippi: a Brief History (The History Press, 2011) and co-author of Legendary Locals of Meridian, Mississippi (Arcadia Publishing 2013). Her book, Mississippi and The Great Depression, was released November 13, 2017

by The History Press. Her mission as a writer and teaching artist is to help children see the beauty of words and to realize their power.

{ what’s happening }

Sweetest Chefs of the South Winners

E

at Y’all recently hosted Sweetest Chefs of the South, known as the most indulgent event of the year, where the South’s A-list pastry chefs competed against one another to see who really is the sweetest chef. Austin Agent, Executive Pastry Chef for city Grocery in Oxford, won Best Flavor for his take on Mississippi Mud Pie; Executive Chef at White Oak Kitchen & Cocktails in Atlanta, Megan Brent, won Most Creative for her Ice Cream Candy Bar consisting of duck egg vanilla ice cream, bourbon caramel, and peanut butter nuggets; and Best Presentation went to Chris Walker, Pastry Chef at Seafood R’evolution in Ridgeland.

Highland Village in Jackson Welcomes Aplós

H

ighland Village’s newest restaurant offers a delicious twist on Mediterranean cuisine and has quickly become a local favorite. The menu at Aplós focuses on casual eateries found throughout Italy, Greece, and the Middle East. The restaurant is centered around an eightspit rotisserie and Italian pizza oven. The menu consists of spit-fired meats showcased on Mediterranean wraps, salads, and Italian Neapolitan pizzas, as well as snacks like Hummus with Pita, Pita Mozzarella, and Lebanese Cheese Rolls.

Frozen Greek yogurt is also available for those with a sweet tooth. For more information, visit www.eataplos.com.

Northpark Mall Accepting Applications for "Taste for the Space" Contest

N

orthpark Mall in Ridgeland recently announced a contest for local culinary professionals to compete against each other to win a dining space in the mall.

Taste for the Space is a first-of-its-kind opportunity for culinary professionals in the area, offering a $50,00 investment prize, a turnkey dining space, and six months free rent as the prize. The contest is accepting applications now until October 13th, and the competition will take place on December 1st where 12-15 finalists will cook their signature dish. The event is open to the public, and the $7 tickets will benefit a local cause. To learn more or apply, visit www.northparkmall.com/tasteforthespace. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 13

{ fabulous foodie finds }

Feeling FOXY F

all is the ideal time to add a bit of woodland style to your table and home. The fox motif has been on the home decor scene for a few years now and is even more prevalent this year.

Here are some great ideas for incorporating this cute creature into your decor. edm

Creature Cups Fox Ceramic Cup, $14.99 Amazon SoYoung Linen Cooler Bag, $27.95 - small and $34.95 - large Amazon Coiled Rope Storage Bin, $24.99 Target see page 72 for store information

14 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

Spode Woodland Red Fox Dinner plate, $37.00 Salad plate, $26.00 Cereal bowl, $36.40 Mug, $34.50 Belk Decorated Layer Cake, price varies depending on size The Cakery, Oxford Fox figurine, $7.19 Hobby Lobby

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 15

{ chef’s corner }

Mitch McCamey Stays True to His Roots With North Miss. Restaurants

M

by paige mckay

itchell McCamey is the chef, owner, and creative Kitchen, Neon Pig Oxford, and, eventually, King Chicken director of Kermit’s Outlaw Kitchen, the co-owner, Fillin’ Station. McCamey continues to stay true to his chef, and butcher of Neon Pig Tupelo and Neon philosophy for whole animal butchering, sourcing from local Pig Oxford, and is also the co-owner & chef of King Chicken farmers, and harnessing southern craftsmen. He plans to open Fillin’ Station in Belden. From the small town of Okolona, more concepts in the months and years to come. Kermit’s McCamey and his mother traveled and lived in Texas, Arkansas, Outlaw Kitchen serves a type of campfire cuisine that’s simple, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, and Louisiana. In seasonal, and wood-grilled. Neon Pig is a whole-animal butcher the summers, McCamey would always return home to North Mississippi. It was those summers that shaped his culinary identity.

From working on a cattle farm to playing in his grandmother’s clay pickling basement to shucking peas while watching Hee Haw, McCamey experienced the immensely rich, sincere, deepsouth culinary traditions that would later have a huge effect on his farm-based philosophy.

When he was Chef Mitch McCamey and his family 21 years old and looking for a new adventure, McCamey moved to the mountains of Colorado. There, he shop, market, and restaurant; and King Chicken Fillin’ Station, worked under live fire and slow food master Chef Michael which leans on all things southern and convenient. Signature Fernandez. After a decade spent out west, McCamey moved to dishes include the Veggie Art Project at Kermit’s, the Smash Birmingham, Alabama, to work at Hot & Hot Fish Club under Burger at Neon Pig, and the Southern Fried Chicken at King Chef Chris Hastings, a James Beard Award-winning chef. It Chicken Fillin’ Station. was in Birmingham that McCamey’s love for local, farm-based When McCamey isn’t in the kitchen, he enjoys surfing and foods came full circle. His time with Chef Hastings is what creating simple dishes at home with fresh, clean ingredients. turned him from a cook into a chef, and he considers Hastings McCamey says that if he wasn’t in the restaurant business, he to be the person who mentored him and influenced him to would pursue a career in design. His favorite thing about being become the chef he is today. in the restaurant industry, though, is spending his days with his Finally, McCamey moved back to his roots in North restaurant gang. edm Mississippi to open the Neon Pig Tupelo, Kermit’s Outlaw

16 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

Cashville Finishing Sauce This is our signature hot chicken finishing sauce at King Chicken Fillin’ Station. This is not a dipping sauce, rather, it is meant to be prepared, the chicken rolled in the sauce until completely coated, and then eaten.

Servings: will cover 20-25 pieces of chicken 5 tablespoons cayenne pepper 1 tablespoon brown sugar 1 tablespoon chili powder 1 tablespoon garlic powder 1/2 tablespoon onion powder 1/2 tablespoon paprika 1/2 tablespoon kosher salt 1/2 tablespoon honey 4 cups blended oil

Mix all dry ingredients and honey (no oil yet) in medium, stainless-steel bowl until completely blended.

Heat blended oil in a small saucepan on medium heat for 5 minutes or until at least 350 degrees F. Once oil is heated, combine all ingredients.

Dip chicken and allow to cool for 1-2 minutes before eating.

Note: This sauce easily separates, so it needs to be stirred frequently.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 17

Taste of Magnolia a

A New Take on Savory Pies story and recipes BY susanna johnson-sharp photography by nancy mcfarland, director of public information copiah-lincoln community college - natchez campus

‘T

CHEF SUSANNA JOHNSONSHARP is a native Mississippian; much of her life being spent in Natchez. She is the Culinary Arts Technology Instructor at CopiahLincoln Community College at the Natchez campus and earned her B.S. in Culinary Arts at Mississippi University for Women.

In her professional life, she held prominent positions at many well-known establishments across the state before starting the Culinary Arts program at Co-Lin in Natchez, imparting her industry experience and wisdom with the next generation of chefs and restaurateurs. While still in college, an enterprising Susanna started Aunt Suzie’s Catering, a successful catering firm that focuses on homemade, unique offerings and has amassed a cult-like following in her neck of the woods. Aside from her life in the kitchen, Susanna is an accomplished organic gardener with booths at the Vidalia, La., and Natchez farmers’ markets. She is also very active in her church, First Presbyterian Church of Natchez.

18 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

is the season for cooler weather (hopefully!) and heartier suppers.

Chicken pot pie, shepherd’s pie, and ham pie are just a few of the fall and wintry meals that pop into my head this time of year.

Nostalgia sets in with the smell of shepherd’s pie wafting through the house, bringing back memories of home-cooked meals and family gathered around the table. Mouths watering and stomachs growling, we waited for our daddy to finish his long, heart-felt Presbyterian blessing that, to us, seemed to last FOREVER before we could dig into scrumptious family dinners.

Shepherd’s pie is simple and straightforward; ground beef in gravy spread with a thick layer of mashed potatoes and cheese, all baked until the cheese is melted and crispy on top and the gravy is bubbling up the sides of the pan. Yes, shepherd’s pie is one meal that always feels like home.

Chicken pot pie is much the same – chicken leftovers, whatever vegetables you have on hand or a bag of frozen vegetable mix, roll out pie crust (you can’t tell the difference between store bought and homemade), and a simple gravy made with chicken stock. Top all that happiness with another sheet of pie dough, cut an ‘X’ in the top to vent, bake it off, and you’ve got yourself an easy meal that will please anybody.

You can blame the Culinary Arts Degree, but I had to alter these classics and came up with something surprisingly amazing.

While contemplating what to do with all the butternut squash I had grown, I went to work integrating it into many of our family recipes. For my hearty chicken and butternut squash shepherd’s pie, I was able to incorporate butternut squash two ways – diced and roasted in Necie chicken and roasted and mashed into my winter squash mashed potatoes. The result is deliciousness.

Necie Chicken is a dish made by my French Aunt, Denise Ray, living in the, then, dry Attala County attempting to produce French food with no red wine.

Lea and Perrins Worcestershire sauce is no Burgundy wine, but it produced this family favorite that my whole family still makes.

Laced with tons of butter, Worcestershire sauce, and lemon juice, Necie Chicken is far from a healthy entrée; therefore, I reworked the original into a healthier version that is just as good.

For the pie, the chicken is removed from the bone, chopped or shredded, and combined with the sauce and several vegetables.

For the mashed potatoes, I add roasted, mashed butternut squash to produce a beautiful, orange hue reminiscent of autumn.

No cheese is necessary for this dish because the winter squash mashed potatoes will brown on top, making a crispy caramelized topping that speaks for itself.

Make Necie Chicken with Winter Squash Mashed Potatoes for supper one night. Take the leftovers and remake them into this new take on the classic shepherd’s pie. The table will fill up with family and friends faster that you can set the pie on the table. edm

Hearty Chicken and

Butternut Squash Shepherd’s Pie

Necie chicken Feeds 6-8 people 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil Kosher or sea salt Freshly-cracked black pepper Whole chicken, cut into 8 pieces 1 pound baby bella or button mushrooms, washed and thickly sliced 2 cloves fresh garlic, peeled and minced 1/4 cup fresh squeezed lemon juice, more to taste if desired 2 tablespoons Lea and Perrins Worcestershire sauce, more to taste if desired 1-2 cups cold water as needed In a large, 12- to 14-inch skillet or Dutch oven (I use my giant cast iron skillet), add the olive oil and place over high heat. While the pan and oil are heating, generously salt and pepper the chicken pieces.

Carefully add the chicken pieces to the pan. Do not overcrowd the pan or the chicken will not brown properly.

If you have to do this in batches in order to not overcrowd, this is fine; but if the pan drippings begin to burn, splash

a couple of tablespoons of water to prevent burning until the chicken is thoroughly browned on all sides.

When the chicken is a deep brown color with crispy skin, turn the pan heat to medium and remove the chicken from the pan to a plate.

Add the mushrooms and cook until tender.

Add the garlic and lightly cook it (should only take about 10 seconds).

Add the lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, and 1 cup of the water; whisk to remove any of the “goodies” left on the bottom of the pan.

Place the chicken and all the juices that came out while it was resting back to the pan. Braising liquid should come halfway up the chicken. If there isn’t enough liquid, add more cold water.

Bring liquid to a simmer, reduce heat to low, cover with a tight-fitting lid, and cook until the chicken is falling off the bones (about 1 hour).

Remove chicken to a platter; stir and taste the sauce. Adjust seasonings with salt, lemon juice, and Worcestershire sauce. I serve the sauce thin, but you can thicken with a cornstarch slurry if desired. Serve with Winter Squash Mashed Potatoes (recipe follows).

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 19

Roasted Butternut Squash 1 butternut squash Oil Salt Wash and dry your butternut squash. Using a very large sharp knife, pierce the squash through the center and split lengthwise down one side. Flip the squash over and repeat. Stand the squash up and split the blossom end. Don’t try to split the stem. After the blossom end is split open, you can easily break the steam in half by pulling the two halves apart.

Using a large metal serving spoon, scrape as much of the seeds and stringy stuff from each cavity.

Cut the stem and blossom ends off. Lay the squash cut-side down on the cutting surface and use a serrated peeler to remove the skin.

Serrated peelers are available at most stores.

They are fantastic for peeling tough-skin or furry-skin fruits and vegetables.

Cut squash into strips of desired thickness.

Cut the strips into cubes. Remember that the squash will shrink a little during the roasting process, so don’t cut it too small.

Place diced squash in a mixing bowl and toss with 1-2 tablespoons oil, just enough to lightly coat it on all sides, and sprinkle with salt.

Line a sheet pan with foil and spray with nonstick cooking spray. Spread squash into a single layer on the pan and place in the oven.

Roast for 15 minutes at 450 degrees F and remove from the oven. Flip or stir the pieces and spread back out. Return to the oven and cook until desired tenderness and brownness has been achieved.

Winter Squash Mashed Potatoes Oil 1 (2-3 pound) winter squash, halved, roasted, scooped, and mashed 3 pounds russet potatoes, peeled, boiled until tender, and drained 1 stick butter, room temperature 1/2 cup sour cream 1/2-1 cup milk, half and half, or cream Salt and pepper, to taste Drizzle 1/2 tablespoon of oil in each cavity and rub inside and out with oil. Sprinkle the cavity of both halves with the salt.

Line a sheet pan with foil and spray with nonstick cooking spray.

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Place squash,cut-side-down on sheet pan and place in oven.

Roast for 35 minutes. If squash is easily pierced with a knife, it’s ready. If not, check every 5 minutes until squash is tender.

Remove squash from oven, and as soon as it is cool enough to handle, scoop out the flesh with a larger spoon. Mash and add to any dish, pie, or soup you would like puréed squash in.

Combine the squash, potatoes, butter, and sour cream in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Turn on low speed until the potatoes are thoroughly mashed and all the ingredients are mixed well.

Add salt and pepper to taste. Add 1/2 cup of milk and stir mix on low to combine. If mash is still too thick, add more milk until the desired stiffness has been achieved.

Makes approximately 6-8 servings.

For this application, we’re using butternut squash; but for other recipes, use your imagination.

Hearty Chicken and Butternut Squash Shepherd’s Pie 1-2 pieces of leftover Necie Chicken, deboned and shredded or diced 1 cup leftover Necie Chicken Sauce, thickened with cornstarch slurry 1 large onion, diced and sautéed until tender in very little oil 1/2 of a (2-3 pound) butternut squash, diced in 1/2 to 3/4-inch cubes, optional 8 ounces baby bella or button mushrooms, optional 1 cup frozen English peas, optional 2-3 cups leftover Winter Squash Mashed Potatoes (I use whatever we have left) Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. In a casserole dish (I use a 9- to 10-inch baked bean pot, but a 9x13 dish will work as well), combine all ingredients except the potatoes.

Spread the bottom layer evenly on the bottom of the pan.

Top the bottom layer with the potatoes. I find it easier to place several small dabs and then spread all the way to the edges of the pan.

Place casserole in the preheated oven and bake until the top is golden brown and crispy and the gravy is bubbling up around the topping, about 30 minutes.

Remove from the oven and allow casserole to rest for 10 minutes before serving.

All About

Apples T

By Lisa LaFontaine Bynum

here is some truth behind that old saying, “An apple a day keeps the doctor away.” Besides being a delicious snack, apples have tremendous health benefits. They are an excellent source of dietary fiber and loaded with antioxidants, such as vitamin C, that can help reduce the risk of developing diabetes, breast cancer, and high cholesterol. Apples are also good for your brain, as they can reduce the risk of stroke and dementia.

Step through the door of your local grocery store and you will likely be greeted displays of apples in every shape, color, and size. You may wonder what the difference is between a Red Delicious and a Granny Smith (besides their color)? Which are better for snacking and which are better for baking? We shed some light on some of the most common apple varieties you are likely to find. edm

Ambrosia Ambrosia apples are typically light red with yellow patches. The flavor is sweet and juicy, making it a good apple for snacking. Ambrosia apples also don’t brown as rapidly as other varieties, so it is ideal for fruit salads or fresh fruit trays.

Gala According to the U.S. Apple Association, Gala apples have passed the Red Delicious as the most popular apple in the U.S. Its thin yellow-orange skin, sometimes marked with pink or red streaks, makes the Gala the perfect apple for snacking.

Fuji The skin of a Fuju apple can range from light red to yellow with dark pink streaks. They are crisp and hold their shape when baked on their own in the oven. If you’re looking for an apple to pair with a slice of sharp cheddar, the Fuji is the way to go.

Golden Delicious The Golden Delicious is an apple of all trades. Its crisp texture and sweet flavor lends itself well for snacking, baking, apple juice, or for homemade apple sauce or butter.

It’s also perfect for savory dishes. As its name suggests, the skin is usually golden in color with just a hint of pink or red. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 21

Granny Smith The bright green Granny Smith is probably one of the most recognizable apples. Because of its tart flavor, Granny Smith apples are sometimes referred to as “sour apples.” They have a crisp texture which holds up well in apple pies. The apple’s high acidity also prevents it from browning quickly, so it can be used raw in salads or paired with cheese.

Honeycrisp Honeycrisp apples have a yellow skin marked with light red or pink streaks. Slice them up and use them for a pie or cook them down for applesauce or apple butter. They have a crisp texture that also lends itself well in salads or slaw.

Jazz Jazz Apples actually a hybrid of Braeburn and Royal Gala apples. They are are rosy red in color with hints of yellow, orange, or green. They have a sweet flavor and firm texture and are perfect for muffins, cakes, bread, baked apples, or pies.

Red Delicious When you think of a red apple, you’re thinking of a red delicious.

It is the most well-known of the apple varieties. While they are great for snacking, they don’t hold up well when baked in a pie. However, they are excellent for using in apple sauce or soup.

Granny Smith Apple Pie with Cheddar Cheese Crust For the crust: 2 cups all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper 6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter 4 tablespoons cold solid vegetable shortening 2 cups shredded sharp Cheddar cheese 2/3 cup ice water For the filling: 2 pounds Granny Smith apples peeled, cored, and thinly sliced 1/2 cup sugar 2 tablespoons flour 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg For the crust: In a medium mixing bowl, combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, salt, and cayenne.

With a pastry blender or two knives, cut in the butter and shortening until the mixture resembles course meal.

(TIP: You could also grate your butter and shortening on a box grater. Much easier!) Stir in the cheese until well combined.

Sprinkle on the ice water and stir just until the dough 22 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

comes away from the side of the bowl. Divide dough into half. Shape each into a flat disk. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 450 degrees F. Remove one disk and roll out onto a floured work surface until the dough is about 13 inches wide and 1/8 inch thick. Carefully transfer crust to a prepared 9-inch pie plate. Trim off excess dough and crimp the edges.

Line the crust with waxed or parchment paper. Place a few pie weights into the center of the crust. Or fill with dried beans or rice. Bake the crust for about 8 minutes.

Remove the weights, return to the oven, and bake for an 3 additional minutes. Allow the crust to cool slightly.

For the pie: In the meantime, combine the apples with the sugar, flour, lemon juice, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Spoon mixture into the pre-baked pie shell.

Remove the remaining pie dough from the refrigerator.

Roll it out onto a lightly floured surface to a thickness of 1/8 inch. Carefully drape the crust over the apple filling.

Crimp the edges. Slash holes in the top to vent steam.

Place pie on a baking sheet with sides to catch any spills while baking. Bake for 20 minutes, then reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees F and bake for an additional 20 minutes. Check the pie frequently to make sure the crust isn’t browning too quickly. If it is, loosely cover the pie with foil and continue baking.

Allow pie to cool slightly before serving.

Granny Smith Apple Pie • eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

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24 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

The Big CheeseS Wayne County Pair Wins Top Prizes in National Grilled Cheese Competition

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story by paige mckay | photography by lorie roach

rayden Odom may only be 9 years old, but culinary talent knows no age limit. It helps that his grandmother, Buckataunna native Lorie Roach, is also skilled in the kitchen. In fact, Odom, a Wayne County native and third grader at Wayne Academy, and Roach both recently won the grand prize in their respective age groups at the Wisconsin Grilled Cheese Recipe Showdown, an annual national competition sponsored by Wisconsin Cheese in search of the best original grilled cheese recipe.

The Grilled Cheese Recipe Showdown was Odom’s first cooking competition, and he decided to compete alongside his grandmother due to a little encouragement from her. He enjoys cooking and creating recipes, too, so it was the perfect opportunity for him to get his feet wet in the world of culinary competitions.

At the Wisconsin Grilled Cheese Recipe Showdown, Odom entered his original sandwich recipe, the Shrimp Nacho, and he won the grand prize in the junior division and took home $5,000.

Odom’s award-winning sandwich included Wisconsin cheese, of course, as well as shrimp, sautéed peppers and onions, and crushed tortilla chips to give it a nacho-like crunch, hence the name Shrimp Nacho.

Roach’s winning sandwich, The Green Lobster, won her a grand prize of $15,000. She also won this same competition last year and has participated in countless cook-offs and competitions throughout the country, so she is no stranger to cooking competitions. Her sandwich featured two Wisconsin cheeses, butterkäse and fontina, as well as lobster, chimichurri sauce, and guacamole, all griddled between slices of country white bread.

The panel of judges at the Grilled Cheese Recipe Showdown included national magazine editors, cookbook authors, and food bloggers.

There were over 1,600 original recipes from all 50 states submitted to this year’s contest.

Though Odom isn’t sure if he wants to continue down the culinary route, he still enjoys whipping up grilled cheese sandwiches and baking cookies in his free time. He even hopes to enter a cookie contest in the future. When he’s not in the kitchen or tending to his schoolwork, Odom enjoys playing baseball, fishing, playing with LEGOs, and playing games on his iPad. edm

Lorie Roach and Brayden Odom eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 25

Shrimp Nacho Grilled Cheese Official winner of the 2018 Wisconsin Cheese Grilled Cheese Recipe Showdown

by Brayden Odom

8 red, orange, or yellow mini sweet bell peppers, seeded and sliced 1/2 cup red onion, chopped 3 tablespoons olive oil, divided 1 pound uncooked large shrimp, peeled and deveined 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon chili powder 8 slices (1-ounce each) Hook’s Medium Cheddar Cheese 8 slices sourdough bread 1 cup crushed tortilla chips, divided 8 slices (1-ounce each) Hook’s Monterey Jack Cheese 4 tablespoons butter, softened

26 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

Sauté bell peppers and onion in 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat until crisp and tender.

Remove from the heat and transfer to a bowl.

Cook and stir shrimp, salt, cumin, and chili powder in the remaining olive oil in the same skillet over mediumhigh heat until shrimp turn pink. Spoon into a bowl.

Place 2 slices of cheddar on each of four bread slices; sprinkle with 1/4 cup tortilla chips. Layer each with pepper-onion mixture, shrimp, remaining tortilla chips, and Monterey Jack. Top with remaining bread slices.

Spread outsides of sandwiches with butter, lightly pressing together.

Toast sandwiches on a griddle over medium-low heat for 2 to 4 minutes on each side or until bread is golden brown and cheeses are melted.

Green Lobster Grilled Cheese Official winner of the 2018 Wisconsin Cheese Grilled Cheese Recipe Showdown

by Lorie Roach

Chimichurri Sauce: 1 cup packed fresh parsley leaves 1/4 cup packed fresh cilantro leaves 2 tablespoons fresh oregano leaves 2 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 cup olive oil 1/3 cup red wine vinegar Place the parsley, cilantro, oregano, garlic, red pepper flakes, and salt in a food processor; cover and pulse until finely chopped. While processing, slowly drizzle in olive oil and red wine vinegar; cover and process until smooth. Set aside.

Guacamole: 1 medium ripe avocado, peeled and chopped 1 tablespoon minced fresh cilantro 1 tablespoon lime juice 1/4 teaspoon salt

For sandwiches: 1-1/4 cups cooked lobster, coarsely chopped 4 slices white bread, 3/4-inch thick 2 slices (1-ounce each) Roth Butterkäse cheese 2 slices (1-ounce each) BelGioioso Fontina cheese 2 tablespoons butter, softened Gently toss lobster with 2 tablespoons reserved chimichurri sauce in a bowl. Spread 1 tablespoon chimichurri sauce on each bread slice.

Layer two bread slices with butterkäse, lobster mixture, guacamole, and fontina. Top with remaining bread slices, chimichurri side down. Spread outsides of sandwiches with butter, lightly pressing together.

Toast sandwiches on a griddle over medium-low heat for 2 to 4 minutes on each side or until bread is golden brown and cheeses are melted.

Cover and refrigerate any remaining chimichurri sauce to use later.

Mash the avocado, cilantro, lime juice, and salt in a bowl until desired consistency. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 27

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{ mississippi made }

Crenshaw Family Turns Delta Pecan Crop Into Successful Business Venture story by susan marquez | photos courtesy of billie’s pecans

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s a young housewife in northwest Mississippi, the main worked to add new product lines, including cheese crispies thing on Billie Crenshaw’s mind in the early 1960s and toffee. “We have added more automation, which allows was feeding her husband, Bob, and their four growing us to manufacture more,” says Crenshaw. “We bought a toffee boys. They lived on her husband’s family farm where they cooker the same time we purchased the automated equipment, grew cotton, soybeans, and pecans. One fateful fall afternoon, so that opened us up to making Southern pecan toffee.”

Crenshaw gathered the hundreds of pecans that lined their Other products in the Billie’s Pecans inventory include home’s driveway, and her mother, who lived with them at the chocolate sauce, chili sauce, pepper jelly, pecan brittle, and time, started cracking them.

Crenshaw experimented with a number of pecan recipes until she developed her own “Billie’s Cinnamon Spice Pecans.”

Her boys were her biggest fans, and they encouraged her to sell her delicious pecans.

Crenshaw packed some up and made the trip to Memphis to sample them with the owners of The Market Basket.

They liked the pecans and wanted to sell them. She went home, put on her apron, and began cooking. The business was word-of-mouth, with plenty of repeat customers.

She cooked all her pecans in her home kitchen for 15 years before her husband said she needed to find a place away from home. So Crenshaw found a place on Broad Street in Crenshaw and in 1981 she officially established Billie’s Pecans.

In addition to the signature cinnamon spice pecans, Crenshaw developed Stacy Crenshaw, left, and her daughter, Bailey Ellis, continue legacy more pecan recipes, including of Billie’s Pecans. toasted pecans and chocolate pecans. The pecans were packed into colorful tins and shipped to all fifty states and their award-winning coffee cakes. “We make a cinnamon spice over a dozen different countries. People bought them for coffee cake and a blueberry pecan coffee cake,” says Crenshaw. corporate gifts to give clients, Christmas gifts for friends, and “Our coffee cake won the Food Network’s ‘best cake in for themselves. Today, 60 percent of the sales are corporate, Mississippi’ award on their 50 cakes in 50 states list.” and 40 percent are personal.

The company has experienced steady growth rate through Daughter-in-law Stacy Crenshaw joined the company and the years. With Stacy at the helm (Billie passed away in 2011), eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 29

ABOVE: Billie’s Cheese Crispies and Toasted Pecans RIGHT: Ice cream topped with Billie’s Cinnamon Spiced Pecans and Billie’s Famous Chocolate Sauce

30 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

Billie’s Southern Pecan Toffee and Toasted Pecans the company has expanded their marketing efforts, utilizing social media more and more. Now, Stacy’s daughter, Bailey, has joined the company, and she’s got ideas of her own. “She’s the third generation to be involved with the business, and this is her third season. Bailey wants to move the production and shipping to a new facility in Memphis, where we now live, but we’ll keep the facility in Crenshaw. We get too many people to drive to see us each year in that location.”

One of the people who made their way to Crenshaw was Martha Stewart. She heard about the pecans and stopped in while on a tour of the South. She liked them and began ordering them. “We have her picture in our showroom,” Stacy states.

The company has been going through a re-branding and has a new website. “We want to stay current.” While the business is somewhat seasonal, Stacy says they get orders year-round. “We ship all year, and we are constantly working to develop new products. Our latest is a pecan sandie. We start making those about this time of year and freeze the dough.

Closer to the season, we’ll start baking and packaging them for orders.” edm Billie’s Pecans 800.624.7404 www.billiespecans.com

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32 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

{ community }

The Urban 'Sip Spreads the Gospel in Downtown Jackson With Coffee story and photography by paige mckay

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ooking at it from the outside, The Urban ‘Sip coffee shop just looks like another community coffee shop in downtown Jackson. But once you step inside and learn what The Urban ‘Sip is all about, you’ll soon realize that it is so much more than just a neighborhood coffee shop.

The Urban ‘Sip is a branch of We Will Go Ministries, which is headquartered in the building connected to The Urban ‘Sip. Amy and David Lancaster started We Will Go as a way to do mission work and spread the gospel in places where no one else wanted to go. After getting married in 1992, they served overseas for several years before the Lord asked them to come back to Jackson to serve.

“God likes to see the gospel work in hard places,” Amy said. And for the Lancasters, that place is Jackson.

The Lancasters packed their things and landed back in Jackson after serving in South Africa, and once they got back to town, they purchased a house on Congress Street so that they could better serve their neighborhood and be immersed in it.

“There was no big plan,” Amy said, in reference to coming back to Jackson. “That’s just what God said to do, so we said yes.”

The Lancasters’ house on Congress Street not only serves as their home, but also a place of worship. They would have church service there on Sundays, and when it outgrew the inside, they moved to the front yard. Over time, more and more properties in the area became available, so We Will Go purchased those, too.

They now own 13 properties in the neighborhood, as well as the old YMCA building, which is now where The Urban ‘Sip and the We Will Go facilities are located.

“When the YMCA asked if we wanted to buy the building, God just gave this idea of a coffee shop to

share the gospel,” Amy said. “To me, that’s the fun part about the gospel. And why would I not want to share the gospel on Farish Street?”

And so, that is exactly what The Urban ‘Sip does. Anyone can walk in off the street, whether it’s a neighborhood child or a businessman who works downtown, and receive coffee, water, and a prayer in Jesus’s name. Kids come in after a long

David and Amy Lancaster eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 33

day at school to get water and hang out with one another before going upstairs to the We Will Go study area to do their homework and receive tutoring. Every aspect of The Urban ‘Sip and We Will Go is to save the city of Jackson that far too many people think is a lost cause.

The Lancasters and We Will Go strive to change people’s perception of Jackson with something as simple as a coffee shop on Farish Street.

“God says love the Lord your God with all your heart, soul, mind, and strength, and love your neighbor,” Amy said. “So that’s what we do.”

When you purchase a cup coffee or a frappe from The Urban ‘Sip, you’re doing so much more than just enjoying an afternoon cup of coffee. Each purchase plays a part in restoring someone’s life, feeding someone who might not have the means to their own food, or clothing someone who needs a pair of pants for a job interview. The proceeds for each cup of coffee is poured right back into We Will Go and their mission of serving the downtown Jackson neighborhood.

Not only can you buy coffee from The Urban ‘Sip, but you’ll notice several shelves of wooden artwork upon walking into the coffee shop. Each of the art pieces have been made by someone who works at We Will Go, and the proceeds from the wooden pieces also go right back into We Will Go’s missions.

The Urban ‘Sip is a neighborhood coffee shop and a store with wooden picture frames and coffee mugs, but it’s so much 34 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

more than that. It’s a safe place for those that are weary, it’s a place of learning for the neighborhood kids to attend tutoring sessions and play basketball with each other, and it’s a place to share the love of Jesus in a tangible way, just as the Lancasters intended.

“Jackson is our Jerusalem,” Amy said. “And this city matters.”

The Urban ‘Sip is open Monday through Friday from 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. Next time you find yourself in downtown Jackson for business or a workday lunch, check out The Urban ‘Sip for a cup of coffee, and check out We Will Go Ministries to find out how you can help their missions. edm The Urban ‘Sip/We Will Go Ministries 806 N. Farish St., Jackson 601.398.2410 Ext. 3 www.wewillgo.org/ministries/the-urban-sip/

Amazing Grace and Mississippi Mud Coffee Drinks

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 35

Ryan Bradley and his son, Cooper, stand on a pile of oyster shells ready to be placed back on oyster beds.

36 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

Reef Restoration Shell Recycling Program Helps Protect Mississippi's Oyster Industry story and photography by julian brunt

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he Mississippi Sound has the just right mix of salt and fresh water for oyster cultivation. The tides gently push the alternating salinity back and forth across the beds, just what the oysters like. Oysters feed in fresh water and take a rest in salty water. Too much of one or the other and the oysters suffer, so Mississippi’s estuarine waters are perfect.

Thousands of acres of oyster beds off Pass Christian have long provided oysters to a country hungry for salty, fresh mollusks. At one time, more than 400,000 sacks of oysters were harvested annually, and shipped all over the country, but recent harvests have been less than one tenth that amount.

So, what went wrong? It wasn’t just the disaster of Hurricane Katrina. The BP oil spill was a major blow, and then

the Bonnet Carre spillway was twice opened to reduce flood water pressure on the Mississippi River, and the reefs also suffered through a red tide. The results have been catastrophic.

But there is hope. A pilot shell recycling effort was started and funded last year by the Mississippi Commercial Fisheries United. The MSCFUnited’s mission statement says, “The Mississippi Commercial Fisheries United serves to protect the common interests of Mississippi's commercial fishing industry, promote sustainable fisheries through leadership in stewardship, and advocate on behalf of commercial fishermen, fishing businesses, and consumers of the resources our industry provides.” If anyone is going to get something done, it is this group.

Oyster boat in Pass Christian Harbor. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 37

So here is how it works: In the old days, seafood processors collected oyster shells from the reefs they fished and returned them to maintain the health of the oyster population. In today’s modern market, oysters are shipped all over the country and most shells are discarded by restaurants. Stop-gap efforts have been made by adding limestone and other material to reefs as clutch for oysters (oyster spats attach themselves to discarded oyster shells in a natural environment to mature), but that program has proven to be less effective than natural shells.

Ryan Bradley, director of MCFUnited and fifth generation fisherman, is passionate about restoring the reefs. He explained that the program will work by providing restaurants with containers for the discarded shells, the containers will be picked up, the shells will be cleaned, and eventually returned to new

38 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

and existing oyster beds in Mississippi waters. One recycled oyster shell can support six new oysters.

The cleaned shells can also be used in emerging aquaculture techniques, such as the spat-on-shell or remote setting method.

Spat are grown in a laboratory environment, shells are placed in wire cages, submerged in salt water tanks, and the maturing spat are added to the tank where they attach to the shells to mature. When the time is right, the shells and the spat are returned to the salty Gulf waters and grow to maturity.

Oyster reefs not only support the seafood industry, but help clean the water (one oyster filters 50 gallons of water a day) and provide habitat for fish and other marine species.

It isn’t hard to envision the day when tens of thousands of sacks of Mississippi oysters are again shipped all over the

LEFT: Oyster shells in cages, ready to be placed in salt water tanks.

ABOVE: Cages in tanks, waiting for salt water and spat.

country. The economic boom would be much welcomed

by Coast fishing families, restoring not only their economic viability, but their pride in harvesting much sought-after oysters, as they have for many generations. The environmental impact would also be vastly improved with not only more oysters, but improved habitat, and cleaner water.

If you would like to get involved, check out what The Oyster Bed Company is doing. It is an environmentally concerned company that does its best to promote fundraising efforts by environmentally conscious nonprofit organizations.

Among other things, they produce a cooking pan for oysters that eliminates the need for oyster shells. Shells can be left at the processing plant and then returned to the reefs. The shells from oysters shipped whole to restaurants are most often

discarded.

A part of The Oyster Bed's mission is to educate the public on the value of the oyster and the value of a healthy ecosystem. A small effort by a few forward-thinking companies and an educated public can make a major impact of the Gulf ecosystem and the economy of South Mississippi.

If you use the code “MSCFU” to purchase any of The Oyster Bed’s product, you will receive 15 percent off your purchase, and $10 will be donated to Mississippi’s oyster shell recycling efforts. Visit www.theoysterbed.com to learn more about their high-quality cookware.

Part of the Oyster Bed motto reads, “More oysters, more reefs, more land.” It’s a sentiment with profound implications. edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 39

{ in the bloglight }

story by paige mckay | photos submitted

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they all include healthful ingredients. In addition to featuring hen it comes to eating healthy, living in the South recipes, DeLeon is also working on blog posts that offer makes it hard to do sometimes. Olivia DeLeon, evidence-based nutrition information, including health tips author of The Magnolia Dietitian blog, strives to that can be easily applied to any lifestyle. She also features her promote healthy eating by providing delicious and healthy travels throughout the state while celebrating the food culture recipes to her readers, whether they’re from Mississippi or of Mississippi. anywhere else across the country.

Over the last few years, The Magnolia Dietitian has gained DeLeon moved from Fargo, North Dakota, to Mississippi a large following and created in 2013 to attend graduate a community that DeLeon school and a dietetic says is her favorite part about internship. After graduating having the blog. with her master’s from Ole “I love receiving emails Miss in 2015, she quickly from readers and followers found a passion for making saying that they tried a recipe Mississippi a healthier and enjoyed it,” DeLeon said. community. Since graduating, “Being able to help people she has gained experience in adopt a healthy lifestyle while both the clinical and consulting accomplishing their health areas of nutrition and has been and nutrition goals is truly a able to improve the health of passion of mine!” many individuals. She then As for the future of The decided that she wanted a Magnolia Dietitian, DeLeon larger platform to share her hopes to continue to improve tips and advice, so she created the health of Mississippians, as a website. Since then, The well as improve the nutrition Magnolia Dietitian has taken knowledge of all individuals off. and readers who come across DeLeon has had an interest her blog. in cooking since she was a “There is so much false child and would cook with her information out there that has mother during the holidays, caused some to fear the food and she would even watch we said,” DeLeon said. “I Food Network instead of want to help eliminate the fear cartoons. After beginning her of eating certain foods and career in the field of nutrition Olivia DeLeon promote a good relationship and dietetics, she found with the foods we eat.” that there was a large amount of misinformation that has The Magnolia Dietitian and DeLeon’s overall goal is to help caused much confusion when it comes to the food we eat. So, individuals adopt their own healthful lifestyle while enjoying DeLeon created The Magnolia Dietitian to reduce the amount all foods, and so far, she’s done just that. To follow along with of misinformation that’s so wide-spread and educate the The Magnolia Dietitian and for delicious, healthy recipes, check community with science-based nutritional information. out DeLeon’s blog at www.themagnoliadietitian.com or follow Readers can find several different recipes on The Magnolia Dietitian that are delicious, healthy, and easy to make. Recipes along on Instagram at @the_magnolia_dietitian. edm range anywhere from sweets to breakfast items to pizza, and 40 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

Sweet Potato Oatmeal Cups 2-1/2 cups rolled oats 3/4 cup baked sweet potato (about 1 medium potato) 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon sea salt 1 cup unsweetened applesauce 1 cup water 4 tablespoons maple syrup 1/3 cup dark chocolate chips Preheat oven to 380 degrees F and line 12 cupcake tins.

In a medium bowl, combine oats, baking powder, cinnamon, and sea salt. Stir to combine.

In a large bowl, combine baked sweet potato, applesauce, water, and maple syrup. Stir to combine.

Gradually mix the oat mixture into the wet ingredients and stir until combined. Stir in dark chocolate chips.

Spoon mixture into cupcake tins and bake for 20 minutes. Once baked, you can eat the oatmeal cups right away (if you like them gooey!) or let them sit for an hour until they are firm.

Note: To bake sweet potato, preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Pierce potato with a fork (all over the potato) and place on a baking sheet. Bake for 45-50 minutes, let cool, and scoop out flesh of potato. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 41

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{ fresh from the farm }

Something Great Is Brewing in Brookhaven story and photography by paige mckay

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hen you think about Mississippi and our farming and agriculture, several things come to mind.

Vardaman sweet potatoes, dairy and beef farms, Delta crop farms, and the list goes on and on. But, you might not know that Mississippi is home to a tea farm, too.

The Great Mississippi Tea Company, located in Brookhaven, is situated on several acres of land in Lincoln County and was Mississippi’s first tea farm at the time of conception. Owners and tea makers Jason McDonald and Timmy Gipson have found a passion for growing tea, and their mission is to provide the best quality leaf from the healthiest tea plants.

It all began in 2012 when McDonald decided he wanted to do something with his land in Brookhaven. It was originally used for cattle grazing and was later planted with timber. In 2005, Hurricane Katrina destroyed 75 percent of the timber, and after that, McDonald was on the hunt to find something else to grow on the land in the place of timber.

“I was looking for something that would be hurricane-proof,” McDonald said.

“I believe land should be productive, and I needed something sustainable.”

Soon after, McDonald found himself on a trip to Charleston, South Carolina, to visit the Charleston Tea

Plantation to learn about tea and how to grow it. It turns out, Mississippi has exactly what tea plants need in order to thrive: high heat, humidity, good amounts of rain, and acidic soil. By December of that year, McDonald ordered 60,000 seeds to plant and hired tea consultant Nigel Melican to assist in the

process. The first field was planted in October 2013, and those are the plants that are being harvested today.

Once the leaves are plucked, they are then taken to the production facility on the farm, better known as the Tea Shack.

Each kind tea goes through different processes to get to the eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 43

44 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

end product, but each one is produced and packaged in the Tea Shack and then sent off to the distributor to be sold.

Tea flavors available from The Great Mississippi Tea Company are black tea, green tea, and oolong tea. Black tea, known as Black Magnolia, is a complex tea made from the leaves of Japanese Yabukita cultivar and provides notes of grilled apricot and honey suckle, with a finish of clover honey.

Mississippi Queen, the green tea, is plucked from the same Japanese cultivar as the Black Magnolia; however, the different processing of this plant produces a tea with savory flavors of edamame and freshly picked spring peas. Similar to an oolong tea, the leaves are rolled lengthwise and shaped into cotton bags, giving it hints of fried okra.

Planting, harvesting, production, and packaging is done onsite of The Great Mississippi Tea Company, and several other aspects of the company involve people from all over the world.

McDonald and Gispon have traveled to Hawaii, Alabama, and South Carolina for research purposes, and tea consultants from Scotland and the United Kingdom have been involved over the years, all to ensure that what’s being grown is the best tea possible. It’s very much a hands-on process that requires patience, but the outcome is well worth the wait.

Even though the process is long, the years of work have paid off for The Great Mississippi Tea Company as they have received several awards and accolades for their tea. The black and green teas placed first at the 2015 Tea of the United States

Awards and oolong placed second, and green tea won the Global Tea Championship last year. Oolong tea has entered the running at this year’s Global Tea Championship.

Green tea, black tea, and oolong tea from The Great Mississippi Tea Company can be purchased online from The Cultured Cup in Dallas, and will soon be sold at Fortnum & Mason, a retail store in London. You can also visit the farm in Brookhaven by scheduling an appointment. edm The Great Mississippi Tea Company 2572 E. Lincoln Rd. SE, Brookhaven 601.823.4295 www.greatmsteacompany.com

OPPOSITE PAGE: The tea drying process and the tea shack.

ABOVE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Oolong, black, and green teas. Numerous awards won by The Great Mississippi Tea Company. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 45

How We Roll

46 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

Starkville Family Turns Friendly Favor Into Thriving Business story and photography by paige mckay

W

hat started as just an idea on the way home through social media and word of mouth, Christa and Tyson from a beach trip has since turned into so much were making more pans of cinnamon rolls each week for more, all because of what Christa Lee calls “the tailgates at Mississippi State. By the end of the year, they were perfect storm.” Christa and her husband, Tyson, were on their way home from the beach with some friends when one of them mentioned that Christa once made some of the best cinnamon rolls he’d ever had while they were in college at Mississippi State. Soon after, another friend asked Christa if she could make a batch for her to keep in the freezer. Friends and family then tried to talk her into making her cinnamon rolls and selling them to others in the community, but Christa was hesitant at first.

After some convincing, Christa decided she would run with the idea and start making cinnamon rolls on the side to sell to friends and family. Her and Tyson’s wedding theme was “a LoveLee wedding,” so they stuck with the idea, and LoveLee Rolls was born.

“We didn’t think much of it and we didn’t have a master business plan,” Christa said.

“It was just ‘hey, let’s post on Facebook and see if people would buy them.”

The Lee Family - Tyson, Ivy, Christa, Beck, and Zeke (Photo submitted) And people did buy them. At first, Christa and Tyson would just sell to friends and family through posting making 15 to 18 pans per week. on Facebook and word of mouth. LoveLee Rolls began in “Once we started growing, I decided to check into the July 2015, and at the time, roughly 11 pans of rolls were being legality of things,” Christa said. “I wanted to operate with made per week. Soon after, football season geared up, and just integrity.”

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 47

Christa Lee ices cinnamon rolls.

Upon looking into state laws, Christa and Tyson learned about the Cottage Food Law of Mississippi. This law allowed the Lees to bake from their home kitchen and sell their cinnamon rolls, but it also limited growth. Under the Cottage Food Law, Christa and Tyson were not able to sell wholesale to any local stores and shops, they could not advertise their product or sell online, and they could only sell $20,000 worth of products per year. Obviously, they could not continue to operate a business and grow if they could not advertise their products, so they had to get creative.

“Once we realized we couldn’t advertise the cinnamon rolls online or even post about them on Facebook, we knew we had to come up with something,” Christa said.

The Lees value family time and spending time with their young kids, so opening a brick and mortar store was out of the question for them since it would take away from that.

At the same time, the Lees needed something that would be consistent for their business and something that would allow them to be able to sell out of their home. A friend had recently sent Christa a link to a kitchen that was for sale, and it got her thinking.

“We moved into our current house in 2016, and we had this huge backyard, so I thought, ‘what if we built a kitchen?’”

In October 2016, Christa and Tyson decided to launch a Kickstarter campaign to build a kitchen in their backyard. With the new kitchen being separate from their home, LoveLee Rolls would no longer have to operate under Cottage Food Law, and it would also increase production tremendously. The City of Starkville approved their project, and funds soon began to pour in from LoveLee Rolls backers. Money raised from the Kickstarter would go toward purchasing the building, outfitting the kitchen, preparing the grounds, and a fence.

Fast forward to December 2016, the money from the Kickstarter was awarded to the Lees, and they began construction on their kitchen. LoveLee Rolls has been operating since then, and they recently moved into the kitchen full-time this past April. Now that the kitchen is its own entity

48 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

and not part of the home, LoveLee Rolls can now operate without restrictions. The building even had to meet health department requirements just like any other business or restaurant.

Now that Christa has a full kitchen to work with, production of cinnamon rolls has significantly increased to meet the demand of tailgate and party orders, as well as individual orders. The new oven can cook 24 pans of cinnamon rolls at time, whereas the oven inside the house could only accommodate three pans.

Personal orders aren’t the only thing that have increased since the inception of the new kitchen. Now that more pans of LoveLee Rolls can be produced at a time, Christa and Tyson have decided to try the wholesale route so that people can pick them up at any time. Pans of LoveLee Rolls can now be purchased at Vowell’s in Starkville and Sunflower in Columbus, and they’re actively looking into getting them put in other markets, too. Along with personal and party orders, LoveLee Rolls are also available at farmer’s markets in Starkville and at the Night Market during the summertime. Party trays have also been purchased in the past for wedding showers, corporate events, and every party in between.

Being a stay-at-home-mom to three kids, Zeke, Beck, and Ivy, is Christa’s full-time job, and Tyson works for a local ministry, but they both get to come together and make LoveLee Rolls a successful side-business. Food brings them together, just as it brings everyone else together.

Now that the Lees are getting settled in their new kitchen, the opportunities ahead are endless. They’re looking for more stores to sell their products, and they’re making more and more cinnamon rolls each week to cater to the masses, all while keeping family their number one priority.

To purchase a pan of LoveLee Rolls next time you’re in Starkville, stop by Vowell’s in Starkville or Sunflower in Columbus, or check them out on Facebook at www.facebook. com/LoveLeeRolls to place an order.. edm

DID YOU

KNOW?

• Almost 1 in 4 Mississippians — about 690,000 people — don’t have enough to eat.

• More than 1 in 4 children (28.7%) go to bed hungry most every night.

Stomachs are growling all over the state. Hunger is a problem all across America, but in Mississippi, it’s practically an epidemic.

DONATE NOW! Every $1.00 donated provides seven meals to hungry Mississippians.

www.msfoodnet.org

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{ from mississippi to beyond }

From the Gulf Coast to the West Coast, Mark Millwood Is Cooking Good

By Kathy Martin | photos submitted

T

he son of a naval officer, Mark Millwood developed a diverse palate at a young age as his family was based in Japan, Australia, California, and Mississippi. This broad spectrum of tastes and cultures propelled him straight into the food industry by the time he was 13 years old. He recalls feasting on raw fish dishes in Japan when he was a 10-yearold boy and eating bowls of menudo with his neighborhood buddies in Central California.

“While I’ve been all over the world and tasted so many great dishes, there’s something special about Mississippi that stands out.” Millwood says, “You can get a really good bowl of gumbo many places, but in Mississippi you can just tell that someone really cooked it with love.”

His affection for Southern cooking led Millwood to open his own restaurant, That Boy Good, in Oceanside, California, paying homage to his Southern roots, as well as using a

50 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

favorite expression that he heard his uncles exclaim when they appreciated a musician. His flagship restaurant features smoked meats such as baby back ribs, chicken wings, and brisket, as well as catfish, chili, and chicken and waffles. It has been named one of the top 10 places to eat at in the San Diego area.

His second location, Miss Kim’s, is aptly named for his wife, who he says embraced his dream and helped him find the right locations to market their brand.

When he was just a boy growing up in California, Millwood says that everyone in his family could cook well. “I woke up to the smell of fried green tomatoes cooking in the skillet and homemade biscuits baking in the oven.” His father was born and raised in North Mississippi while his mother was from Oklahoma, so Millwood says that he had a front-row seat to great cooking.

Before he jumped right into food as a career, he took a

detour after high school and joined the Navy to grow up first.

After that, Millwood worked at fine restaurants in Boston and Vail, where he met his wife and was named one of the top chefs in 2010; and other restaurants in Indiana, Vermont, and California. He also spent a decade on the Gulf Coast of Mississippi, where he worked in a variety of chef positions for the Grand Casino in Gulfport, the Beau Rivage Resort & Casino in Biloxi, and the Ameristar Casino in Vicksburg.

When he and his wife decided to move from Vail to California with their son, Victor, in 2011, they began planning where and how to open a restaurant there. After noticing

many taco shops and pizzerias, they decided that barbecue would stand out in the crowd. Millwood says that the concept developed from his doodle on a cocktail napkin and That Boy Good was born. He also made good on his promise to make his wife famous if she married him by naming their second restaurant Miss Kim’s. “She’s the brains of the business and I’m the talent.”

Locals love their fried catfish, macaroni and cheese, chicken and waffles, collard greens with his homemade bacon, and dirty fries, which are hand-cut potato strips covered in cheese, brisket, and jalapeños. He also creates a Barbecue Bloody Mary topped with a barbecue rib.

When Millwood isn’t cooking, which isn’t very often, he takes a departure from all of the meat and makes lots of vegetables in a variety of ways. He still thinks that a fresh tomato between two slices of bread is the perfect storm for a great Southern meal.

Millwood remarks, “I’d say I’m pretty blessed to have had a mom with a Folgers can of bacon grease in the kitchen.” That boy is Southern good. edm That Boy Good 326 N. Horne St. Oceanside, CA 760.754.1275 Miss Kim's by That Boy Good 207 N. Coast Hwy. Oceanside, CA 760.433.4227 www.thatboygoodbbq.com

Barbecue Bloody Mary

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 51

T.B.G. Rib Rub

by Mark J Millwood

1 pound brown sugar 1 cup granulated sugar 1/4 cup smoked paprika 1/4 cup onion salt 1/4 cup garlic salt 1 teaspoon cumin 2 teaspoons dry mustard 2 tablespoons coarse black pepper 1 tablespoon crushed red pepper Mix all ingredients together thoroughly and store in an airtight container until ready to use.

52 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

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Fair Fare E

very October, the Mississippi State Fair cranks up in Jackson.

Without a doubt, one of the highlights of the fair is the food. You don't have to wait until October to enjoy the delicious fare that's offered on the midway. There are fair-inspired treats all around our state that can be enjoyed year-round, and we've found some of the best to share with you. edm

54 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

Chickenon-a-stick

As evidenced by the long lines to order one, Penn's Chicken-on-a-stick has to be the most popular food item at the state fair. Luckily for you, Penn's has numerous permanent locations in the central part of the state, so you can grab one any time you wish. To find the location nearest you, visit www. pennsrestaurants.com.

Also find chicken-on-a-stick at: Brookhaven - Janie's Pastry Shop Clinton - Uptown Restaurant & Boutique Ellisville - KaRock's Greenwood - The Landing Jackson - Jefferson's Grill Oxford - 4 Corners Chevron

Donut Burger Donuts burgers emerged onto the fair food scene within the past decade. For this sweet and savory combo, the hamburger bun is replaced with glazed donuts. This is one of those "don't knock it until you try it" foods. If the fair's not in town and you've got a craving for one, head to Jdub's Kitchen in Jackson.

FUN FACT: The donut burger is also known as a "Luther Burger." Supposedly it was a favorite of the legendary musician Luther Vandross.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 55

Street Corn Got a hunger for roasted corn? Stop

by Commodore Bob's Yacht Club in Starkville for their rendition of Street Corn that is sure to satisfy. They take roasted corn and dress it up with house-made mayonnaise, garlic, cayenne, and cotija cheese. It's only available on their lunch menu, so plan accordingly.

When in Jackson or Ridgeland, be sure to try the Street Corn at Green Ghost Tacos.

Smoked Turkey Leg A familiar sight on the midway is a fair attendee with a giant turkey leg in their hand. Sadly, "Mr. Turkey Leg" Elton Moore won't be at the fair this year as he passed away in May. The midway won't be quite the same, but never fear, you can get your turkey leg fix at Rose's BBQ in Hattiesburg.

56 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

Other places where you'll find smoked turkey legs: Greenwood - Drake's BBQ Jackson - E&L Barbeque and Little Willie's BBQ Oxford - B's Hickory Smoke BBQ Walnut Grove - Urban Country Kitchen

Funnel Cake Fries One of the most popular sweet treats at any fair is the funnel cake.

Although it's quite tasty, it can be very difficult to eat.

Pulling it apart to get a bite can result in a powdered sugar explosion. To enjoy the taste without the messiness, bump on into Bumper's Drive-In for funnel cake fries.

They're super sweet and super easy to handle without making a mess.

Cow Patty According to the folks at Velvet Cream in Hernando, everything is better with ice cream (and we wholeheartedly agree). What they call a Cow Patty is a funnel cake with your choice of ice cream and toppings. With over 30 flavors of ice cream and 250 toppings, the possibilities are endless.

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 57

Candy Apples No trip to the fair is complete without a bright red candy apple. For your year-round fix, Nandy’s Candy in Jackson's Maywood Mart offers the sweet treat daily and is sure to satisfy any hankering for the sweet fair treat.

Caramel Apples If caramel apples are more your style, then Sweet Treats Bakery in Tupelo (left) and Coast Candymakers in Gulfport (below) have got you covered. Dipped in caramel, chocolate, and whatever toppings your heart desires, your caramel apple craving is sure to be met at these sweet shops.

58 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

Fried Twinkies State fairs across the nation are known for deep fried everything, and the Mississippi State Fair is no exception.

Squealer's Bar-BQue in Meridian has gotten in on the action with their Fried Twinkies dessert.

Twinkies are battered, deep fried, and topped with your choice of powdered sugar, raspberry sauce, caramel, or caramel and pecans.

B's Hickory Smoke BBQ 825 College Hill Rd., Oxford 662.236.7090

Drake's BBQ 1906 Leflore Ave., Greenwood 662.374.5202

Bumpers Drive-In Locations in Ackerman, Baldwyn, Belzoni, Brandon, Brookhaven, Canton, Charleston, Flora, Flowood, Gluckstadt, Hazlehurst, Jackson, Laurel, Louisville, Lucedale, Macon, Marks, Mendenhall, New Albany, Pearl, Philadelphia, Prentiss, Quitman, Rolling Fork, Ruleville, Smithville, Vicksburg, Waynesboro, Yazoo City www.bumpersdrivein.com

E&L Barbeque 1111 Bailey Ave., Jackson 601.355.5035

Coast Candymakers 3206 W. Beach Blvd., Gulfport 877.774.8439 www.islandviewcasino.com Commodore Bob's Yacht Club 102 Rue Du Grand Fromage Ste. A&B, Starkville 662.268.8326 www.commodorebobs.com

Green Ghost Tacos 2820 N. State St., Jackson 601.487.6082 1290 E. County Line Rd., Ridgeland 601.957.7436 www.greenghosttacos.com Jdub's Kitchen 2460 Terry Rd., Jackson 601.398.3461 Little Willie's BBQ 115 Village Square Dr. Ste. G, Brandon 601.992.6328 3015 Highway 80 E., Pearl 601.397.6698 www.littlewilliesbarbeque.com Nandy's Candy 1220 E. Northside Dr. Ste. 380, Jackson 601.362.9553 www.nandys-candy.myshopify.com

Penn's Restaurant Locations in Brandon, Canton, Carthage, Flora, Florence, Forest, Jackson, Kosciusko, Madison, McComb, Meridian, Philadelphia, Raymond, Ridgeland www.pennsrestaurant.com Rose's BBQ 4697 US 49, Hattiesburg 601.584.8691 www.rosesbbqinc.com Squealer's Bar-B-Que 4805 29th Ave., Meridian 601.483.2727 www.squealersbbque.com Sweet Treats Bakery 1708 Stephen D. Lee St., Tupelo 662.620.7918 Urban Country Kitchen 113 Main St., Walnut Grove 601.253.2125 Velvet Cream 2290 Highway 51 S., Hernando 662.429.6540 www.dipmenu.com eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 59

{ from the bookshelf }

The Artful Evolution of Hal & Mal's

By Malcolm White Published by University Press of Mississippi

by kelsey wells lambert

F

ew names are as synonymous with Jackson as that of Hal & Mal’s, a restaurant and “upscale honky-tonk” that has been a part of downtown Jackson since 1985.

Founded by brothers Harold “Hal” and Malcolm “Mal” White, it has hosted diners, parties, music, and family for over 30 years.

Though “Hal” passed away in 2013, the restaurant continues to thrive. His brother lovingly gives the history of the restaurant and highlights some of its best features in a new book, The Artful Evolution of Hal & Mal’s. With beautiful illustrations by Ginger Williams Cook and a foreword by Robert St. John, the book is the perfect tribute to this Jackson landmark and to a brother whose vision helped make it a reality.

The brotherly love between Hal and Mal can be found throughout the pages, from copies of handwritten recipes that Hal scratched down on index cards to a tribute at the end of the volume. Though the recipes may not be readable, they show the care that Hal put into each of his creations throughout the years.

Hal is by far not the only person given proper tribute in this book. Their parents, their brother, Brad, grandmothers and aunts, friends who became family, chefs, and more are remembered through Mal’s stories and Ginger’s masterful illustrations. Mal understands that without the people who work to make the downtown icon a success, there would be no Hal & Mal’s. Near the end of the book, speaking to the future, he states: “No one knows what the future will hold, for Hal & Mal’s or for anything else. But as long as we have our peoplefamily members, bartenders, cooks, waiters, dishwashers, managers, busmen, musicians, and patrons- we will have our community.”

Of course, without its landmark location and unique setting, the restaurant and club would not be what it has become. Mal speaks lovingly of the state-owned building where the icon conducts business, the courtyard entryway, the eclectic decorations, and the music that define Hal & Mal’s.

So many different aspects make up the landmark that it

60 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

is hard to list them all. From Hal & Mal’s has come the Hal’s St. Paddy’s Day Parade, now not only a yearly tradition, but a benefit for Blair E. Batson Hospital for Children. Throughout Artful Evolution, Mal tells the stories of his work at the Bourbon Orleans Hotel before his Jackson restaurant vision, his dedication to a certain brand of ketchup, and the importance of comeback sauce to Hal & Mal’s and the City of Jackson.

The chapters of the book are as varied as the patrons of the restaurant and the décor that graces its walls. It is a beautifully illustrated addition to anyone's collection who is a patron of Hal & Mal’s or is interested in local history. With its strong traditions and dedicated people, Hal & Mal’s is set to remain a Mississippi landmark for years to come. edm

Hal, left, and Mal, right, under the iconic courtyard sign fashioned from old Lamar Theater letters by Ed Millet

Family Recipe

Throughout the pages of The Artful Evolution of Hal & Mal’s, you will find images of Hal White’s handwritten recipe cards.

While the book doesn’t include full recipes, we managed to snag a personal favorite from Mal himself.

This recipe actually comes from the kitchen of Mal’s Papa, his grandfather.

Mal describes Papa’s Potato Salad as “redemption in a bowl.”

“When I think of potato salad, I am instantly transmitted to the early 60s to my grandparents’ ancient, airish kitchen just off the main road in the town of Wiggins, and I begin to salivate like one of Pavlov’s dogs,” Mal says.

Mal’s Papa always made the potato salad to accompany his grandmother’s roast, and Papa gave Hal and Mal their first culinary education by letting them cut and chop the ingredients when they were younger, though Papa remained fully in charge of the process of making Hal’s recipe cards for cocktail the potato salad. After all these years, it sauce and crawfish chili Hal’s recipe cards for cocktail remains a family-favorite recipe. sauce and crawfish chili

papa’s potato salad

10/30/17 1:56 PM 10/30/17 1:56 PM

by Malcolm White

10-12 small red (new) potatoes 4 eggs 12 ecclesiastically cut sweet pickles 3 tablespoons mayonnaise Salt and pepper, to taste Spanish paprika or Mrs. Dash to garnish First, Papa boiled the potatoes with skin intact. He added the eggs to the pot halfway through to ensure that they didn’t overcook. Papa did this very carefully in the early morning before we left for church. Then he drained, refrigerated and cooled the eggs and potatoes so they would be perfectly chilled before post-gospel assemblage.

After church, we all changed into casual attire and gathered in the kitchen to begin the ritual. We peeled, cut, and cubed the potatoes with the skill and precision of a surgeon or a sculpture artist. Each cut of the potato was uniform; my grandfather was a stickler for that detail — no chopping or tearing. Once the potatoes and eggs were geo-dynamically carved and amassed into a mixing bowl, the all-important pickles were prepared. Each pickle was

removed directly from the jar and held over the bowl so as to capture all of the juice. The pickles were uniformly halved and diced into small pieces about 1/4 the size of the potatoes and eggs. Papa added salt and pepper to flavor the potatoes and eggs, and then combined the pickles with the mayo. Then, all was folded, very carefully so as not to disfigure the ingredients. Only a few turns were allowed as the delicate makeup of the fragile parts were highly susceptible to damage. Spanish paprika, one of the very few luxuries in our rudimental cabinet, was dusted atop the masterpiece for flair.

This dish was no side item, rather, it was a dish made with love and caring to accompany his loving wife’s pot roast for the nourishment of his beloved family through another week of sin, salvation, and redemption. The carved beef was passed, the tea glasses filled, and Papa’s Potato Salad made the rounds, but only after we bowed our heads and Papa ritualistically recited the blessing, “Bless us O’ Lord for these our gifts, and bless this food to the nourishment of our bodies. In Jesus name we pray. Amen.” eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 61

{ raise your glass }

Sparkling Apple Cider Sangria

By Lisa LaFontaine Bynum

S

parkling Apple Cider Sangria is the perfect cocktail to carry you into fall. It’s light and refreshing for those days when summer just doesn’t seem to want to turn loose of the season. However, the flavors are definitely autumn, with notes of cinnamon and citrus. Choose apples with a crisp texture that will hold up to soaking in wine for several hours. The drink gets its sweetness from the sparkling apple cider, so choose a dry white wine such as Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, or a dry Riesling. edm

Sparkling Apple Cider Sangria 1 Granny Smith apple, cored and chopped 1 Ambrosia apple, cored and chopped 3-4 orange slices 4-5 cinnamon sticks 2 (750 ml each) bottles of Pinot Grigio 2 (750 ml each) sparkling apple cider Add the apples, orange slices, and cinnamon sticks to a large pitcher. Pour

62 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

the white wine over top. Allow the wine mixture to chill for several hours or overnight.

When serving, fill each glass halfway with the wine mixture. Top off with the sparkling apple cider. Garnish with sliced apples or oranges if desired.

Serves 8

•

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Dinner served Thursday to Saturday from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m.

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DINING GUIDE - DINING GUIDE - DINING GUIDE • DINING GUIDE - DINING GUIDE

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eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 63

{ where to eat }

Squeals & Wheels BBQ 111 S. Archusa Ave., Quitman • 601.557.5035 • www.facebook.com/squealswheels

story and photography by richelle putnam

S

uzanne Ivy grew up in Quitman where her father, Charles Shepherd, barbecued all the time. “He just loved barbecuing. He gutted refrigerators and turned them into barbecue grills and he barbecued over open pits,” said Ivy. “Every time we went out of town we had to go look at barbecue grills.

That’s what I grew up knowing. He always told our middle son, Joseph, that one day we were going to have a barbecue restaurant and they would talk about what they were going to name it.”

But Ivy took another route in her life. She became a teacher and worked for ten years in the Clarke County School System. “I was just burning out, and I knew it was time to make a change.” She and her husband, Terry, started praying about what to do next because they needed her income. Terry finally asked her, “How would you feel about opening up a restaurant?”

They kept praying and the doors began to open. They found an old vacant service station building in Quitman, but the owners wouldn’t sell because it had been in the family for so long. However, they did agree to lease it.

“They were wonderful to let us renovate this building to our needs, like cutting doors out where there were windows,”

64 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

said Suzanne. “I still had not said anything to my parents because I knew that they were going to worry about me not having a solid job.”

One day when Suzanne was teaching, Terry called her. “I knew he never called me at work, so I answered his call.”

He told Suzanne that the sheriff ’s office was taking her mother to the house because Suzanne’s dad had collapsed. They were taking him to the emergency room in Meridian.

“I flew home, and we got Mama and, of course, she was all upset. I kept praying all the way, Lord, please let Daddy live long enough to see us open the barbecue restaurant because that was what he always wanted us to do. When her dad became responsive, Suzanne told him about the restaurant.

And God honored Suzanne’s request.

Charles Shepherd lived to see his daughter and her close friend, Deborah Boykin, open Squeals & Wheels BBQ in Quitman, and he is still enjoying scrumptious barbecue.

The barbecue base is unique in that it’s not really a tomato base, but it’s not a vinegar base either. “We have our own inhouse ingredients that make up the sauce,” which is a delicious sweet and spicy blend. “It’s not too hot and not too sweet.”

Ribs eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 65

Menu items include traditional barbecue items: chicken, ribs, drummettes, wings, sausage, but “we also have chicken strips, fish filets, shrimp and lots of different sides.” Suzanne uses her mother’s baked bean recipe, and the yummy peach cobbler is made fresh daily. They plan to expand their barbecue nacho offerings. “When we did a tailgating event, we had three different nachos: Nacho Baby, Nacho Mama, and Nacho Daddy.”

The restaurant is divided into three rooms. In the Squeals room (the main room where you order) you’ll find the pigs (not real ones!) and the Wheels room is all about cars. Squeals and Wheels supports the community and all Clarke County football teams, so the third room displays the community flag and high school football jerseys. Included is the jersey of Frank Ivy, Terry’s brother, who lost his life to cancer. Frank played football for Quitman High School in 1975-76 and graduated in 1977.

To maintain and coordinate the old gas station atmosphere, the restaurant plays 50s and 60s music. “We want to be a fun family restaurant where families can come in and sit down and 66 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

eat and enjoy the music,” said Suzanne. “They say the more senses you use, the more you enjoy something. It’s amazing the affect that the music has.” Suzanne plans to place her dad’s ’67 Chevy out front once it has been painted. The car will become the Squeals & Wheels logo.

In a small town, a mom and pop restaurant like Squeals & Wheels relies on the support of its community and “the response has been wonderful,” said Suzanne. “We have our weekly people that come in and our Saturday people. We’re starting to get a lot of people from other towns. We’ve had people traveling to the coast or somewhere else who found us on Google and they stopped to eat.”

Suzanne hopes the restaurant will help draw more people to Quitman. “It’s wonderful to have people driving from Meridian to eat in Quitman because people from Quitman have always driven to Meridian.” Her main goal, however, is to serve Clarke County and the surrounding counties. “We appreciate everybody who walks through our door because for them to choose us out of all their other choices means a lot to us.” edm

LEFT: Smoked chicken, ribs, and sausage TOP: Smoked chicken, fried chicken strips, French fries, fried okra, fried catfish, hushpuppies

Deborah Boykin (co-owner), Suzanne Ivy (co-owner), Holly Waddell, Faye Heidelberg eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 67

68 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

{ featured festival}

BBQ Contest and Live Entertainment Highlight Cleveland's Octoberfest story by paige mckay | photos courtesy of kelli carr, cleveland chamber of commerce

G

oing on its 36th year, the annual Octoberfest in downtown Cleveland has been providing food and fun for all ages since 1982. Each year, residents and visitors alike gather downtown for art and crafts, live music, and, of course, food.

The weekend kicks off on Friday, October 12th, with the ceremonial lighting of the grill at 6 p.m., followed by an evening filled with live entertainment, delicious Southern cuisine, and plenty of children’s activities. The annual street party will begin shortly after at 6:30 p.m. and will include music from Truck Patch Revival, The Remnants, Mississippi Gravy, and Derek St. Holmes, early rhythm guitarist and vocalist for Ted Nugent.

Things get started early the next morning with a 5K run and walk at 8 a.m., with the arts and crafts show opening shortly after at 9 a.m.

Once you work off some calories at the 5K, enjoy more live music from 10 a.m. all the way until 6 p.m. Octoberfest attendees will also find more Southern fare, including the star of Octoberfest, awardwinning barbecue.

Octoberfest is a Memphis Barbecue Networksanctioned barbecue contest, and competitors come from all over the country to compete for the Octoberfest pig trophy and the title of Mississippi Delta State Barbecue Champion. This year’s contest is also included in the Delta BBQ Battle, the finale of a trifecta of local competitions. Championship teams compete in whole-hog, pulled pork, and pork ribs

categories, and Patio Porker teams compete in pulled pork, pork ribs, and pork loin. Attendees are encouraged to stop by and taste the barbecue throughout the duration of the day.

Octoberfest draws approximately 15,000 people over two days to downtown Cleveland. This family-friendly event is not to be missed. For more information, visit www.octoberfestms. com, or call 601-843-2172. edm

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 69

Food Festivals & Events October 6

Biloxi George E. Ohr Art & Beer Festival The George E. Ohr Art & Beer Festival will be held in Biloxi on October 6th. This event will offer an array of arts and crafts vendors, craft beer tents, a homebrewers’ competition, a camper rally with vintage campers, live music, food vendors, and more.

Entry to the festival is free, but access to the beer tents will require the purchase of an armband. General admission bands are $25 and VIP bands are $50. For more information, visit www.georgeohr.org/events.

October 6-7

Collins - Mississippi Peanut Festival

October 12-13

Cleveland - Octoberfest This year marks the 36th Octoberfest held in downtown Cleveland. This MBN sanctioned barbecue competition also includes two days of live music, over 100 arts and craft vendors, Southern cuisine, children’s area, and much more. For more information, call 662-843-2712, or visit www.octoberfestms.com.

October 13

Madison - Day in the Country

Mitchell Farms hosts the annual Mississippi Peanut Festival on their farm in Collins. The festival will include arts & crafts exhibitors, antiques, unique children’s clothes, jewelry, yard art, and lots of food. The peanut festival kicks off the farm’s pumpkin patch fun fall festivities. Call 601-606-0762 for details of scheduled events or visit www.mitchellfarms-ms.com.

October 12

Tupelo - 19th Annual Chili Fest The Downtown Tupelo Main Street Association (DTMSA) will host the 19th annual Chili Fest on Friday, October 12th.

The one-day festival will consist of lunch and dinner, music, and a chili cook-off. Contact DTMSA at 662-841-6598 or go to www.tupelomainstreet.com for event details.

70 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

Day in the Country is a community festival held on the grounds of Chapel of the Cross each first Saturday in October. It draws more than 10,000 visitors annually with families enjoying food, music, artisans, crafts, tours of the Chapel, Barbecue Cook-Off, the famous 63-Egg Cake, and children’s games and rides. This year’s Day in the Country will be held on October 13th. For more information, visit www.chapelofthecrossms.org or call 601-856-2593.

October 18-20

Greenville Delta Hot Tamale Festival The Delta Hot Tamale Festival is celebrating its 5th year with more events, more music, and more of those famous Delta Hot Tamales! The Delta Hot Tamale is perhaps the biggest culinary contribution to come from this area. Visitors from around the world will gather with local residents in Greenville to enjoy this delicious food. This three-day celebration includes everything from the Frank Carlton Hot Tamale Cooking Contest, the crowning of Miss Hot Tamale, a hot tamale Eating Contest, book signings by a number of well-known writers, a celebrity chefs’ Hot Tamale Cook-off, hot tamale storytelling, a parade, arts and crafts, food symposium, three stages featuring a variety of home-grown Delta musicians, and plenty of hot tamales to whet your appetite. Bring your lawn chairs and the entire family to Stein Mart Square in Downtown Greenville for a one-of-akind experience. For more information visit www. mainstreetgreenville.com.

October 19-21

November 8

Taste of Tupelo This business expo features over 100 businesses providing demonstrations, complimentary samples, and information. In addition to local restaurants, caterers, and bakeries, the Taste of Tupelo will feature exhibitors from various industries including healthcare, banking, manufacturing, retail, educational institutions, and more! This event is presented by the Community Development Foundation along with Barnes Crossing Auto Group and is open to adults ages 21 & over.

November 3-10

Vardaman Sweet Potato Festival

Natchez Great Mississippi River Balloon Race The 33rd annual Great Mississippi Balloon Race will be held October 19th-21st on the grounds of the Rosalie Mansion in Natchez. Enjoy a weekend full of live music, food vendors, a beer garden, fun and games for the kids, and much more. Friday night kicks of with a balloon glow and fireworks show followed by live music.

Saturday and Sunday are both jam packed with balloon races and more live music, as well as Blufftoberfest, the craft beer fest that will be set up. For more information or to purchase tickets, visit www.natchezballoonrace.com.

Vardaman is known for its production of sweet potatoes. The city celebrates this nutritious and delicious vegetable with its annual Sweet Potato Festival. Held in downtown November 3rd-10th, this festival features arts/crafts, 5K run/walk, antique tractor judging, sweet potato tasting booth, sweet potato pie eating contest, barbecued chicken dinner, sweet potato queen/ king contest, sweet potato recipe contest, and more. For more information, call 662-682-7559 or visit www. vardamansweetpotatofestival.com.

To have your food festival or culinary event included in future issues, please contact us at info@eatdrinkmississippi.com. All submissions are subject to editor’s approval. eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 71

Recipe Index

Advertisers Index

Cashville Finishing Sauce, 17

Bin 612, 63

Chimichurri Sauce, 27

Crazy Cat Eat Up, 63

Granny Smith Apple Pie, 22

Harvest Grill, 63

Green Lobster Grilled Cheese, 27

Mangia Bene, 9

Guacamole, 27

McEwen’s, 63

Hearty Chicken and Butternut Squash

Mississippi Beef Council, 7

Shepherd's Pie, 20

Mississippi Children’s Museum, 11

Necie Chicken, 19

Mississippi Food Network, 49

Papa’s Potato Salad, 61

Mistletoe Marketplace, 2

Roasted Butternut Squash, 20

Ocean Springs, 11

T.B.G. Rib Rub, 52

Sanderson Farms, Back Cover

Shrimp Nacho Grilled Cheese, 26

Starkville, 3

Sparkling Apple Cider Sangria, 62

The Kitchen Table, 9

Sweet Potato Oatmeal Cups, 41

Thurman’s Landscaping, 73

Winter Squash Mashed Potatoes, 20

Visit Jackson, 4 & 5

STORE INFORMATION from pages 14-15 Amazon www.amazon.com

Follow us on Instagram to see some of the tasty, local bites we’ve discovered!

Belk Locations in Biloxi, Columbus, Corinth, Flowood, Gautier, Greenville, Gulfport, Hattiesburg, Laurel, McComb, Meridian, Natchez, Oxford, Ridgeland, Tupelo, Vicksburg www.belk.com Hobby Lobby Locations in Biloxi, Columbus, Corinth, Flowood, Gulfport, Hattiesburg, Madison, McComb, Olive Branch, Tupelo, Vicksburg www.hobbylobby.com Target Locations in D'Iberville, Flowood, Hattiesburg, Horn Lake, Jackson, Olive Branch www.target.com The Cakery 1944 University Ave. Oxford, MS 38655 662.202.6466 www.thecakeryoxford.com

72 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018

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MISSISSIPPI www.instagram.com/eatdrinkmississippi

Digital Subscriptions Available!

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apples

Oyster Shell Recycling October/November 2018

On desktop computer, visit www.magzter.com and search for Eat Drink Mississippi or visit www.eatdrinkmississippi.com for a direct link.

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Download the free Eat Drink Mississippi app to purchase and view in app.

Grilled Cheese Champions | The Magnolia Dietitian | Cleveland's Octoberfest

VOLUME 7, NUMBER 6

Access issues on all your devices - iOS, Android, and desktop computer.

9

STATE FAIR inspired TREATS

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Getting a taste of Mississippi has never been easier!

Landscaping • Irrigation Waterfalls • Lighting Outdoor Kitchens & Patios Iron & Brick Work

www.facebook.com/thurmanslandscaping

Thurman’s Landscaping

Hattiesburg, Miss.

601.270.8512 eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 73

Till We Eat Again

BILL DABNEY PHOTOGRAPHY

Jay Reed, a graduate of Ole Miss, lives in Starkville where he is a pharmacist by day and a freelance food writer by day off. He is a member of the Southern Foodways Alliance and writes "Eats One Ate," a weekly column in the Starkville Daily News.

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER2018 2018 74 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER

Fried, Grilled, Baked...

Something’s Fishy Here

I

BY JAY REED

have a friend who fishes. Truth be told, I probably have a lot of friends who fish, but this guy is a pro of sorts. His day job is only metaphorically related to fishing, but every chance he gets, he is out on the water, baiting a hook in hopes of landing a big one to take home and put on his fancy new grill.

I am more of an opportunity fisherman, and the opportunities have been slow of foot (or fin?) for a few years now. The last time I even threw a line in the water was about seven years ago on a vacation to Nashville. The house we rented was on a lake and came with a pier. We did the right thing and bought a fishing license, dug out the rods and reels of my childhood, and spent an hour or two casting and watching the bobber. The result? Only one tiny fish, but plenty of big memories.

As a pre-adult, I was definitely more of an active fisherman. My grandfather (Pappy) in Belmont took us to the Redmont Country Club in nearby Red Bay, Alabama, where we’d sit alongside my great-grandmother (Ma-Manie) and catch bream or cats. On a good day, we’d go back to the house, clean the whole mess, and eat them that night – fried, of course. And while the oil was hot, my grandmother (Granny) would load a platter with hushpuppies, made from a recipe stored in her head and yet to be duplicated. Self-rising corn meal, onion, and green pepper were the primary ingredients – maybe a splash of buttermilk and an egg to hold it together. My mother doesn’t even have it written down, if it was ever written down to begin with. Though I’m not usually one who is beholden to one recipe forever and ever, I do miss those crispy gems.

Back in Starkville, I had a buddy with a lake in his yard. (He lived way out in the country, or so it seemed at the time.) We didn’t fish on every visit – there was a barn to explore – but once in a while, we’d toss in a line. One afternoon, I caught the big one. No really, I did. There was one albino catfish in the lake, and doggone it if the elusive fellow didn’t end up on my hook. I was so proud...until they threw him back in. So much for taking home “the other, other white meat.”

These days I generally let the professionals both catch and cook the slippery little swimmers. Yes, cook them. All the way through. I won’t pretend that I haven’t enjoyed ceviche from time to time, made it through a sashimi dish with a minimal amount of trauma, even tossed back a handful of raw oysters once or twice. But if you want to speak my heart language, and we are talking fish, please apply some heat.

Though I do prefer it cooked, I’m not terribly particular about the method.

Grilled with a dollop of tropical fruit salsa ranks high on the list, especially in a taco. Pan-seared has a nice ring to it, and I love that crust. Baked can be good, too, if prepared the right way. (And though I can’t easily define the “right” way, I definitely know if it’s wrong.) Fried, of course, has a special place in my heart – feel free to insert your own fried food/heart-related joke here.

If it’s catfish, I’m good with a whole fish or fillets. As long as they are covered in corn meal and have spent quality time in a bath of hot oil, I’m not going to complain. Flour-based batters are acceptable for other piscine species, especially in a fish and chips situation. And can I offer a PSA to my British friends here?

Love the fish and chips. Throw out the mushy peas. That is all.

My greatest fear when ordering fish in a chef-driven restaurant is that I might end up getting something that tastes fishy. Yes, I’m that guy: I don’t want my fish to taste too much like fish. My sidekick at the day job orders salmon every chance he gets, but I can’t deal. Just drop me off at Taylor Grocery and I’ll be fine. edm

Gourmet Grilling | My Delicious Mississippi Life | Watermelon Carnival

Natchez Food Tour | Clean Kitchen | Chefs of the Coast

DREAM KITCHEN

DELTA

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2015

Day in the

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

JUNE/JULY 2015

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI APRIL/MAY 2015

Crawfish

BLOGGER TESTED

+ Ravine + 1933 + Henri's + Coffee Pot Cafe + The Sicilian II

Kitchen Tools

FESTIVALS

Mississippi

PICNICS

NYC • DC • ATL

Peachy page 34

+ Bishop’s BBQ + Yazoo Pass + J. Broussard's + Miss D’s Diner + Deli Diner

TURKEY

Heritage Breed

FARM TABLES

Roasted Brussels Sprouts page 31

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

Shrimping Trip

BUCKET LIST

Watermelon

Summer Treats

Fire & Feast

BBQ COMPETITION

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

Culinary

SODA-LIGHTFUL

FESTIVAL

page 41

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

- The Not So Odd Couple -

CHICKEN & WAFFLES

April/May 2015

Mississippi

BILOXI

TAILGATING

Recipes August/September 2015

page 68

Dinner

Farm-to-Table

DINNER

+ Vicari Italian Grill + Rose’s Downtown Bakery & Tearoom + Sway’s Bistro + Stromboli’s Italian Eatery + Cast Iron Cafe

COMMUNITY COOKBOOK PROJECT

PROGRESSIVE

October/November 2015

Bringing Mississippi Roots to the Table

Mississippi

PORK

December/January 2016

February/March 2016

April/May 2016

+ Ciao Chow + Crawdad’s + Restaurant 1818 + Thai by Thai + The Greenhouse on Porter eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

page 34

COUNTRY

Transformation + Orleans Bistro + Rust + The Palette Café + DeRego’s Bread + Corks & Cleaver Wine Bistro

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI

PERFECTLY

+ AC’s Steakhouse • Pub + Five O’clock on Deer Creek + Lou’s Full Serv + The Twisted Burger Company + The Blind Tiger

Summer Salads

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eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

page 30

EATING

page 25

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015

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Eudora Welty's White Fruitcake

Sensible Switches FOR HEALTHY

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Supper Club

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI

FLAVORS of Fall

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eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

Mother’s Day Brunch

+ Tasty Tails eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI •1

VOLUME 4, NUMBER 3

HONEY

& FRIENDS

Martha Foose’s

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI

+ Oxford Canteen + Levon’s Bar and Grill + Culinary Cowboy + Longhorn’s Steakhouse + Ed’s Burger Joint

June/July 2016

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2016

+ The Auction Block Steakhouse + The Blue Biscuit + 10 South Rooftop Grill & Bar + Taste & See + Keg & Barrel

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

EATS

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI

+ Blue Canoe + Cicero’s + Brummi’s Yummies + Chunky Shoals Fish Camp + 200 North Beach

August/September 2016

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2016

Cooking With

+ Southern Eatery + CRAVE Bistro + Livingston + Skidmore’s Grill

LOCAL CHEF CROWNED KING OF SEAFOOD

VOLUME 4, NUMBER 5

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI

+ GRIT + Crystal Grill + Moo’s Barn & Grill + Nightingale’s Pantry + Hook Gulf Coast Cuisine

LOCAL RICE GROWERS

HOMEMADE CHICKEN PIE

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

VOLUME 4, NUMBER 6

APRIL/MAY 2016

Best Gas Station

+ Catfish Blues + Lillo's Family Restaurant + Taste Bistro & Desserts + Phillips Drive-In + Second Street Bean

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

VOLUME 5, NUMBER 1

VOLUME 5, NUMBER 2

VOLUME 5, NUMBER 3

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

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DELTA COUPLE RECOGNIZED NATIONALLY FOR CULINARY WORK

TUPELO CELEBRATES 100 YEARS OF COCA-COLA

FOOD FLIGHT

FOOD REVOLUTION

December/January 2017

+ McEwen’s + Ground Zero Blues Club + Betty’s Eat Shop + Phillip M’s TheMISSISSIPPI Wayward Kraken eat.+drink.

•1

EXPLORING STARKVILLE’S CULINARY SCENE

February/March 2017

June/July 2017

TAYLOR HICKS GETS A TASTE OF THE MAGNOLIA STATE

April/May 2017

+ Steak by Melissa + Bellazar’s + Drago’s + Bin 612 + Jack’s by the Tracks

Gourmet Ice Pop Shops

BOUNTIFUL BERRIES

GINGERBREAD VILLAGE

TIPS FOR AN ORGANIZED KITCHEN

DAIRY FESTIVAL

JUNE/JULY 2016

THE ART OF FOOD

RANDOM RESTAURANT ROAD TRIPS

page 68

UP IN FARMS FOOD HUB

WORLD CATFISH FESTIVAL

Walthall County

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MISSISSIPPI

Sweet Treats

page 22

page 22

Belzoni’s

in Mississippi

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016

for the Season

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

BEST BURGER

Quickie Pie

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

VOLUME 5, NUMBER 4

Share the Love

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

fiesta

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2016

Yuletide Yummies

Chocolate

It’s Time for a

Classic Southern Tomato Pie

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

Soups

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2017

Crunchy Grilled Snapper Burritos

+ Forklift + Downtown Grille + 303 Jefferson + 1884 Cafe + Sully’s

August/September 2017

ELIZABETH HEISKELL

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

Fresh-From-the-Garden Recipes

- The Debutante Farmer -

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017

+ On a Roll Gourmet Egg Rolls + Dino’s Grocery + Saltine Restaurant + Commodore Bob’s Yacht Club + Charred

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

VOLUME 5, NUMBER 5

Summer’s BOUNTY

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI

APRIL/MAY 2017

+ The Rainey + Mai Little Chinese + The Anthony + Sonny’s Smokehouse + Dempsey’s Seafood & Steak

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

VOLUME 6, NUMBER 1

JUNE/JULY 2017

VOLUME 6, NUMBER 2

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI

VOLUME 6, NUMBER 3

VOLUME 6, NUMBER 4

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MISSISSIPPI

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

Elvis-Inspired Recipes

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

Feast Like The King in Tupelo

Baked Ricotta

at Home

+ V. Taco + Bentonia Bugs Crawfish + Crazy Cat Eat Up + Gitano Grill + White Pillars

+ The Trusty Diner + Airport Grocery + Monte’s Steak and Seafood + Skylight Grill + Morgan’s on Main

VOLUME 6, NUMBER 5

FOURTH OF JULY FAMILY PICNIC

April/May 2018

August/September 2018

Smoked Sausage Hash

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI

Pasta Jambalaya

October/November 2017

Baked Brie en Croute

Old Biloxi French Gumbo

Romantic Dinner

Strawberry Iced Tea

GREENVILLE RESTAURANT GETS CELEBRITY CHEF MAKEOVER

Christmas Breakfast Casserole

Brunswick Stew

Cheddar Green Onion Biscuits Mississippi Cathead Vodka Shrimp

Places to chill with a sweet treat

HOLIDAYAPPETIZERS

Orange Slice Candy Cake

Sweet Tea Brined Pork Chops

Mississippi Seafood Trail | Berry Picking | The Great Ruleville Roast

Pumpkin Palooza

Make-Ahead

Short Rib Crostini

Strawberries and Champagne Cheesecake

eat. drink.

MISSISSIPPI

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

11

Shrimp and Grits

and where to find them

Bursting with Blueberries

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

15

appetizers we love!

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MISSISSIPPI

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MISSISSIPPI

VOLUME 6, NUMBER 6

VOLUME 7, NUMBER 5

farm FRESH

Back-to-School

weeknight dinners

Palate to Palette | Gucci to Goats | The Great Mississippi River Balloon Race

Mississippi’s Bicentennial | Backroads and Burgers | A Taste of Home Town

Mediterranean Diet | Mississippi Vegan | SFA’s Guide to Cocktails

Deep South Dining | Turnip Greens & Tortillas | Philadelphia Ham Jam

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MISSISSIPPI

VOLUME 7, NUMBER 3

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MISSISSIPPI

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MISSISSIPPI

page 44

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Missing an issue?

Back issues are available on our website at

www.eatdrinkmississippi.com Give Me

page 36

GREAT RECIPES FOR ADDING CHIA SEEDS TO YOUR DIET

S hrimp & Grits

Lauren Farms

Lovefor theof Chocolate page 34

page 18

SOUTHERN-STYLE CRAWFISH BOIL PIG PICKIN' CAKE

CHICKEN AND ANDOUILLE SAUSAGE GUMBO

FOODIE FORAY ON 49

PIZZA FARM OFFERS UNIQUE LEARNING EXPERIENCE

Award-Winning Barbecue

Collins Tuohy

JUNE/JULY 2013

Picnic Prime Time for a

Comeback Sauce

The Crawfish Boil

James Beard Dinner

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MISSISSIPPI

75 Years of Edam Cheese

Caf CLIMB

Cooking with Venison

Canada's Mississippi Queen

page 62

Mrs. Annie's Famous Strawberry Cake page 22

WORLD’S ONLY APRON MUSEUM IN IUKA

GRANDMA’S POUND CAKE eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

Slugburger 101

Katelyn's Lemonade

Fit to Eat

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MISSISSIPPI

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2013

APRIL/MAY 2013

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Extra Table

Patrick House

Bread Pudding Throwdown

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MISSISSIPPI

•

www.eatdrinkmississippi.com

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013

Swapping Memories & Cookies page 28

Deep South Dining | Turnip Greens & Tortillas | Philadelphia Ham Jam

Minny's Chocolate Pie eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

from the movie The Help PAGE 12

Hunter's Harvest

Giardina's Keeping Tradition Fresh & Elegant

page 28

CLINTON LUNCHROOM LADIES GO HEAD TO HEAD IN RACHAEL RAY'S CAFETERIA COOK-OFF

Josh Marks

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MISSISSIPPI

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MISSISSIPPI

VOLUME 7, NUMBER 3

Southern Foodways Alliance

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MISSISSIPPI

Dairy Farms

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MISSISSIPPI

June/July 2013

Peanuts

DELTA HOT TAMALES

CHOCOLATE CHIP BREAD PUDDING

page 44

DELICIOUSLY SEXY EGGPLANTS

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Linkie Marais

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2013

August/September 2013

Fall Fare

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MISSISSIPPI

BAKED AND FRIED PUMPKIN CAKE ROBERT ST. JOHN AND WYATT WATERS TEAM TO CREATE AN ITALIAN PALATE www.eatdrinkmississippi.com

SWEET & SAVORY JAMS

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A Southern Favorite

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Olympian Chefs

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MISSISSIPPI

FARM TO SCHOOL MONTH GREENVILLE'S DELTA HOT TAMALE FESTIVAL HUNGER GAINS: THE REVOLUTIONARY ACT OF EATING LOCAL eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 1

page 46

SUPER GAME DAY GRUB

DUTCH OVEN COOKING

page 32

VOLUME 2, NUMBER 4

Small Touches, Big Flavor

page 26

PASS CHRISTIAN OYSTER FESTIVAL

page 74

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2014

APRIL/MAY 2014

Spring Luncheon

West Coast Meets

Gulf Coast

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MISSISSIPPI

the delicious legacy of

VOLUME 2, NUMBER 5

Easy Holiday Appetizers

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2013

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MISSISSIPPI

Heirloom Tomatoes

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MISSISSIPPI

MORE THAN 30 GREAT RECIPES FOR THE HOLIDAYS

JUNE/JULY 2014

REAL COOKING WITH CHEF DAVID CREWS

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MISSISSIPPI

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2014

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MISSISSIPPI

August/September 2014

FIGHTING FOR THE FAMILY FARM Ben Burkett Receives James Beard Foundation Award for Contributions to Agriculture

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5 UNIQUE HOLIDAY COCKTAILS

October/November 2014

February/March 2015

3

December/January 2015

page 22

at the

DRINKING YOUR FRUITS AND VEGETABLES eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI

CHIA-licious!

Gathering

ANGEL FOOD CAKE WAFFLES WING DANG DOODLE FESTIVAL

page 20

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FRENCH BISTRO IN OXFORD HOME

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G overnor's Mansion

S'more(s)

OVER 25 DELICIOUS RECIPES

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MISSISSIPPI AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2014

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2014

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2015

MEET THE MACARON MAVEN

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MISSISSIPPI

VOLUME 3, NUMBER 5

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MISSISSIPPI

VOLUME 3, NUMBER 6

VOLUME 4, NUMBER 1

VOLUME 4, NUMBER 2

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MISSISSIPPI

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MISSISSIPPI Bursting with Blueberries

Cheddar Green Onion Biscuits Mississippi Cathead Vodka Shrimp

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2012

PAGE 18

AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2012

$4.95

www.eatdrinkmississippi.com

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Strawberry Iced Tea

•

Eat fresh at your local farmers market PAGE 20

JUNE/JULY 2012

APRIL/MAY 2012

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April/May 2018

•

Tailgating tidbits

Mississippi Mud  page 26

+ The Trusty Diner + Airport Grocery + Monte’s Steak and Seafood + Skylight Grill + Morgan’s on Main

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eat. drink. MISSISSIPPI • 75

THIS THANKSGIVING , tell your family you love em.

OR SERVE CHICKEN AND SHOW THEM.

Thanksgiving means family. And for our family, that means lots of fresh, never frozen, Sanderson Farms chicken. Because there’s nothing like the taste of healthy, natural chicken raised right here in the USA. For this delicious recipe and others, visit SandersonFarms.com/recipes.

Happy Thanksgiving from Sanderson Farms.

76 • OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2018