EAT Magazine 15-06 November|December 2011

The Value of Local Food

These days, we all love to talk food When I founded EAT magazine 13 years ago, no other local magazine, TV channel, radio, website or newspaper thought local food was worth a sentence, let alone an article. In the past decade I’ve watched as TV, the established media, lifestyle magazines, and bloggers have all “found” food Food is now a glamourous topic with chefs as celebrities

At this time of year, we are giving thanks for and celebrating family, friends, and the good food on our table, so it’s worth reflecting on what makes that food good. Sure, great food comes from our favourite, local restaurants and is now more easily than ever bought from an increasing number of small shops But sometimes it’s easy to overlook the people who produce the foods we put on our tables the farmers, the fishers, the pasta makers, the smokers, the salt producers, the vinegar makers, the wheat growers and grinders all those who provide the food that our favourite restaurants and shops add value to and then sell to you It’s a complete, farm to fork circle that starts with the grower/producer and ends with you

In the year ahead, EAT will be introducing you to those food producers. We’ll tell their stories, evaluate the products, and tell you where to find their foods And your favourite reporters and columnists will continue to bring you the profiles of the local restaurants, chefs, food and wine/beer stores that you ask for

While we’re at it, we also think it’s important to talk about some of the issues and challenges facing us. In this issue, Pam Durkin takes a look at the Plight of the Honeybee why bees are essential to life, why they are disappearing, and what we can do to bring back the honeybees But this is not all academic In true EAT fashion, we also bring you some fantastic recipes both sweet and savour y that feature honey Again, that farm to fork circle.

Wishing you and yours all the best this holiday season

Good eating! Gary Hynes, Editor

NOVEMBER

EAST KOOTENAY WINE FESTIVAL

The 10th Annual East Kootenay Wine Festival at Fairmont Hot Springs Resort takes place Saturday, November 5th. Friday, November 4th sees the return of the gourmet pre festival wine paired dinner Visit the website for more information (www fairmonthotsprings com)

BAKERS MARKET IN VANCOUVER

A gathering of professional, amateur, student & Mommy bakers who get together to buy and sell their baked goods to the community Talented budding, professional home bakers selling freshly baked artisanal breads, German pretzels, French macaroons, croissants, gourmet cookies, hand made chocolates, brownies, Belgian Liege waffles, cupcakes, cake pops, scones, organic muffins, gluten free, vegan baked goods, preserves, tarts and much more Indoors at Moberly Arts & Cultural Centre on Saturdays through November until Dec 10th (closed Nov 19th) (www bakersmarket com)

2011 GOLD MEDAL PLATES COMPETITION

Top Chef Canada winner Dale MacKay will go for the top prize at the 2011 Gold Medal Plates competition in Vancouver on November 4th in a battle against ten of B C ’s most talented chefs. For ticket information for the 2011 Gold Medal Plates competition in Vancouver, contact Vancouver@goldmedalplates com or 604 646 3580

For more information, visit the Gold Medal Plates website www goldmedalplates com

GOURMET CHRISTMAS COOKIES

CLASS AT COOK CULTURE

Christmas is coming and so are the cravings for Christmas cookies. This cookie class will teach you how to make four types of cookies; a classic shortbread elegantly gar nished, a lightly spiced linzer sandwiched cookie, a French macaron and one more Nov 7th, 1 3pm $65 (www cookculture com)

OTTAVIO’S

ESTATE OLIVE OIL TASTING

November 10, from 7 9 pm Don’t miss your chance to taste over 20 estate produced olive oils from Italy, France, Morocco & Spain along with an education on the farm ing, harvesting & production practices of the finest producers. Advanced reservations are limited to 25 for this event and can be made in the delicatessen for $25/person, dessert & illy coffee included Discounts on all olive oils at the event (www ot taviovictoria com)

WHISTLER’S CORNUCOPIA

Celebrate gourmet food coupled with fine wine at Whistler from November 10th 13th Sit in on fascinating seminars with wineries, critics and wine professionals, or attend winemaker dinners where sumptuous multi course meals are paired with a variety of wines. Swirl, sniff, & sip a selection of vintages at various tasting events or take a Chef's Trip to the Farm Visit the Whistler Cornucopia website to buy tickets and see full event details (www whistlercornucopia com)

CLAYOQUOT OYSTER FESTIVAL

The Clayoquot Oyster Festival is a memorable celebration of one of the ocean's most coveted culinary delights, the oyster As a region, Clayoquot Sound is a great cultiva tor and consumer of this special bivalve, annually growing over 50,000 gallons of oys ters a year and over the festival weekend slurping back over 8,000 From November 17 19, the community of Tofino in beautiful Clayoquot Sound will go to great lengths to honour the humble oyster (www oystergala com)

VANCOUVER AQUARIUM'S OCEAN WISE CHOWDER CHOWDOWN

November 23 at 7 p.m, join the Vancouver Aquarium’s Ocean Wise Chowder Chowdown as twelve of the city’s best chefs compete head to head in the ultimate competition Taste twelve original ocean friendly chowders paired with local brew and vote for your favourite, all in support of Ocean Wise sustainable seafood Tickets available online (www vanaqua org )

HOLIDAY CHEER LOUNGE NIGHT

Get in the holiday spirit with Silk Road’s Holiday Cheer Lounge Night, Thursday November 24th, from 5 to 9 pm Sip on a tea cocktail, enjoy tasty nibbles, and be

Culinary intelligence for the 2 months ahead the concierge desk by Rebecca Baugniet For more events visit www eatmagazine ca

chefs talk compiled by Ceara Lor nie

The Ask

I n a w o r l d w h e r e t h i n g s a r e p r e m a d e , prepackaged, pre ever ything, what do you t h i n k h o m e c o o k s s h o u l d r e a l l y t a k e t h e t i m e t o m a k e ? S a u c e s ? F r e s h p a s t a ? F r e s h bread? Ice cream?

Sean Brennan | Brasserie L’Ecole | 250.475.6260

In t he garden turning flowerbeds into vegetable patches

Robin Jac kson | Sooke Harbour House | 250.6 42.3421

The biggest loss to home cuisine is the practice of making and eating meals together Because mos t peopl e are no t making sauces, breads and pas t as from scratc h at home, t he next generation will not be able to continue t he culture of t he family meal Having time to cook is always a huge factor, but if we tr y to make something from scratch each time and eat together it will make a big dif ference.

Jena Stewar t | Devour | 250.590.3231

I have no doubt t he proof is in t he sauce! Star t easy wit h t he t hings you love to eat, say tomatoes Make a sauce and if you don’t like it, write down what you would change The best t hing about star ting wit h sauces: you don’t have to t hrow it out if it doesn’t work just make soup t hat's where soup came from right? Screwed up sauces

Alex How | Pizzer ia Pr imas trada (Cook S tree t) 250.590.8595 (Br idg e S tree t) 250.590.4380

Eating anyt hing made at home makes you feel good The “I made t his” sense of satisfaction is hard to beat I'd say make your own stocks Easily frozen and t he key to good soups and sauces

Matt Rissling | The Marina Restauarant | 250 598 8555

Lots of people fall back on using convenience foods to get t hrough t he week and I am no exception. I'm busy, my wife is busy, my kids are busy, so sometimes a jar of pasta sauce with a few veggies thrown in, dried noodles, a loaf of bread and a bag of salad is all there is time for between work , school, gymnas tics, Scouts, homework , bat h and bed There's not hing wrong wit h using ready to eat products as long as you ' re using t he time you save to sit down and eat wit h people you like!

Anna Hunt | Paprika | 250.592.7424

I t hink we should all take a little time and tr y to grow more of our own veggies We are blessed wit h t he climate here, and it really doesn't take much space So take some time and tr y to grow your food

Genevieve Laplant e | Sips Ar tisan Bis tro | 250 590 3519 & Cook Culture | 250.590.8161

It's simple, star t with what you love and go from there. If you love bread learn to make bread. If you love soup learn to make a delicious soup Cooking should not be a chore, but instead a tr ue pleasure There are also fantas tic, locally made prepac kaged items from inspired Victoria businesses, so if cooking isn't your thing, at least buy the best our region has to of fer!

Ottavio sells house made stocks and lasagna, Choux Choux Charcuterie makes crazy good hot dogs, Feys+Hobbs Catered Ar ts makes meals to go, and don't even get me star ted on how yummy Cold Comfor t's ice cream is!

Peter De Bruyn | Strathcona Hotel | 250 383 7137

I t hink t hat people should spend t heir time making sauces Sauces made from scratch wit h a few simple ingredients taste far better and are cheaper t han anyt hing purchased in grocer y stores I love finishing a pan fried salmon dish wit h capers, lemon zest and butter Simply add t he capers and lemon zest to t he pan once t he fish is removed turn of f t he heat and whisk in cold butter slowly This makes a beautiful sauce you can’t buy in grocer y stores Fresh homemade bread can be great, but there are so many small bakeries making fabulous products!

Where should we spend our time?

Culinary intelligence for the 2 months ahead the concierge desk by Rebecca Baugniet

For more events visit www.eatmagazine.ca

pampered with free mini spa services while you kick off your holiday shopping. The staff will be on hand, offering samples of holiday teas and recipes for entertaining Also Nov 26 Toast the Holidays (www silkroadtea com)

TRAINS DELUXE PRE CHRISTMAS GALA DINNERS & BRUNCH

These gourmet gala dinners have been presented for many years in the Museum's sumptuous award winning (2007 Heritage Canada's Restoration Achievement) Royal Alexandra Hall A pre dinner Champagne Reception, followed by 9 courses, with selected wines and professional entertainment between courses A great start to the Christmas season in the Rockies Dinner served Nov 25th 26th, Brunch on Nov 27th (www.trainsdeluxe.com)

THE 2ND ANNUAL GINGERBREAD HOUSE EVENT

This event is “Bringing Gingerbread to Life” on November 27th, and aspires to bring the community together to experience the enjoyment, creativity, and beauty of gingerbread houses in support of the Okanagan Boys and Girls Clubs Get involved and marvel in the beauty of gingerbread (www gingerbreadevent com)

VEGETARIAN APPETIZERS

Get ready for the holiday season. In this cooking class, learn how to make fabulous appetizers from around the world, with lots of make ahead tips for this busy time of year Recipes include Moroccan Spiced Filo Triangles, prep ahead Bruschetta, mouth watering dips, and much more Includes samples of every recipe made in class Nov 28th, 6 9pm. $90. (www.thelondonchef.com)

DECEMBER

A CHRISTMAS INSPIRED

Visit Muse Winery December 10th and 11th for an annual event that allows you to meet the artists, and enjoy work by sculptors Craig Benson and Paul Harder, painter Barry Tate, photographer Dave Hutchison, glass artist Pauline Olesen, goldsmith Terry Venables and kelp weaver/sculptor Grant Warrington The winery will also have on hand a wonderful selection of wine gift baskets perfect for clients, hostesses and friends The Tasting Room will be open throughout the show, so you can leisurely take in the art with a glass in hand.

FINE VINTAGE LTD. CERTIFICATION BUSINESS OF WINE

This course looks at how to develop a career in the wine industry and how to make money. Students will learn what's involved in working in a whole variety of professions in the wine industry, along with approximate salaries. Viticulturalist, Winemaker, Sales Manager and rep, Export Director, Retailer and other roles Find out the steps to take to help you achieve your goals and the education you will need to ensure you're qualified Owning and operating a winery and its associated costs are also discussed A tasting of 8 wines will enhance the afternoon. Saturday, Dec 10th. (www finevintageltd com)

JANUARY

WINTER OKANAGAN WINE FESTIVAL

From Januar y 14 to 22, 2012, Sun Peaks Resort and the Okanagan Wine Festivals Society offer those who love wine and winter recreation the most novel of wine festivals. Set amidst the charming pedestrian village, the annual Winter Okanagan Wine Festival is a unique marriage of culinary events, wine tastings, educational sem inars, and outdoor recreation showcasing the famous wine varietals of BC's Okanagan Wine Country (www thewinefestivals com)

THE SIXTH ANNUAL OREGON TRUFFLE FESTIVAL

The 7th Annual Oregon Truffle Festival will be held in and around Eugene Oregon over three brisk winter days from Januar y 27 29, 2012 Created to celebrate the magnificent Oregon truffles as they reach the peak of ripeness in their native soil, it is the first festival of its kind in North America, dedicated to sharing the experience of the chefs, foragers and fans of Oregon's wild truffles, from their hidden source in the forest to their glory on the table (www oregontrufflefestival com)

The Demon Salt

Salt, like fatty salmon, like red wine, like coconut oil, is off the hook: According to a new study in the Journal of the American Medical Association, the demon salt does not significantly contribute to high blood pressure or cardiovascular disease.

No surprise here: When the nay saying, finger wagging health zealots, nutritionists, academics and government all gang up on something, you know it can’t really be bad for you

I’ve long learned to take such hysteria with a grain of ...

Too much salt can kill you: One gram of salt per kilo of body weight will do the job This was once a preferred method of suicide in China, among the nobles: Salt was expensive and it was a final way of showing off

But you won’t die from salting your popcorn.

Salt is the purest and most ancient of substances, and it’s had a spirited romp through history It was with us when we crawled out of the sea Its ability to preserve food is regarded as a building block of human civilization Our universal craving for sodium chloride is primordial, innate, powerful and probably eternal.

Jesus told his disciples they were the “salt of the earth.” It was an expression of the highest appreciation The Middle Ages saw salt roads, comparable to silk roads, with caravans of 40,000 camels trekking to the far reaching markets, including Timbuktu, of the Sahara By the ounce, salt fetched as much as gold The caravans returned laden with gold dust, ivory and slaves.

During the American Revolution, a Loyalist tactic was to cut off salt shipments and thereby sabotage the Revolutionary food supply

Through the millennia, the sharing of salt has been treated as a bond “It is a true saying that a man must eat a peck of salt with his friend before he knows him,” wrote Cervantes, as Don Quixote

Mark Kurlansky’s Salt: A World History is the definitive read It comes sprinkled with esoteric tidbits: Kurlansky tells us that ancient Egyptian priests were denied salt because it was viewed as aphrodisiac. That in Germany, the shoes of brides were sprinkled with salt for the same reason. That Parmesan is immersed for weeks in a salt bath to give it its savoury magic, the very essence of umami

Rock salt refined with iodine and magnesium carbonate is the customary tenant of the shaker Now it’s being evicted by sea salt, in which we find superior flavour, texture and mouth feel. The designer salts are rolling in from France, Hawaii, Australia, Cyprus, Peru, Bali and even the Himalaya They come in white, black, pink, apricot and forthcoming, maybe, puce We have fleur de sel, the salt of salts, from the premium top layer of the salt bed, said to have a faint aroma of violets We have salts smoked over exotic woods, coconut shells and, for all I know, the ashes of deceased movie stars We have salts with more flavours than Baskin Robbins

Vancouver’s Maison Côté proffers an encyclopedic list of salts infused with arbutus, balsamic, blackberry, hibiscus, Korean chili, rose petal, star anise and scores of similar exotica. And our very own Vancouver Island Salt Co. has added a quartet of flavours to its product line: garlic, mustard, balsamic and banana pepper. The garlic is rich and rounded and my own favourite after the Italian truffle salt sold at Choux Choux Charcuterie Cobble Hill saunier Andrew Shepherd attributes his integrated flavours to blending his elements when the salt is a wet slurry rather than adding infusions at the end.

At home, my wife uses salt in brines for juicy smoked salmon, pork loin roast and venison She makes salt crusts for sunchokes and roast chickens Salt allows her to produce a delectably crispy skin on duck confit Just for me, she buy fresh anchovies when they’re available, cleans them and layers them with salt; they’re subtle, silky and addictive

I love salt, no apologies tendered Tomatoes, corn on the cob, fish and chips I adore foods that call out for a salt typhoon When I go to a movie, I bring my own salt for the popcorn

I’ve been seen slinking away to dark, secret corners clutching foil bags just for a salt hit And don’t get me going on Cheezies When, in the epic movie Sodom and Gomorrah, Lot’s wife was turned to a pillar of salt, I thought it was a happy ending Am I imperilled by my salt fetish? Does my blood pressure soar? At my last check up, my doctor ordered me, for reasons too complicated to describe here, not to cut my salt intake I fainted with excitement

epicure at large by Jeremy Ferguson

Our u n iv ers al c rav in g for sodium chl oride is primordial, powerful and probably eternal.

Holiday Companions

Classic pairings for a drinks party or dinner soirée

Barely is the Thanksgiving bird divested of its flesh and the last sliver of pumpkin pie consumed when ideas for holiday entertaining begin to percolate Many of us are gearing up to host our annual Christmas drinks party Others of us may be considering a more intimate supper or soiree Whatever the circumstance, the holiday season is the perfect time to run with some classic food and drink pairings. To help with your festive gatherings, then, here are a few good old fashioned food and beverage matches (some with a bit of a twist) guaranteed to put the punch in any party

Go nuts with a martini or manhattan. Nuts are the ideal match for alcohol. Instead of popping the top off a can of mixed nuts, go with spicy walnuts (deftly avoiding the pitfalls of peanut allergies in the process) Sauté a goodly amount of walnut halves in a butter/Worcestershire/Sirachi sauce mixture until toasty Drain nuts on paper towels. In a zip lock bag, toss together one teaspoon each of onion and garlic powders, and a lashing of peppers, black and cayenne. Shake the nuts about in the spice mixture Place small bowls filled with the spicy nuts within easy reach

To go with beer, what else? Pickled eggs and a shaker of salt Boil eggs just six minutes to avoid rubbery ellipses and that unsightly black ring that can link yoke to white. Pop eggs into a mason jar filled with hot vinegar. Add slices of red onion. Let eggs and vinegar get acquainted for two days before serving Pour beer into British pint glasses If you can, ferret out a vintage style iron egg holder and clunky glass saltshaker

Add flaky cheese straws direct from the oven to the mix, sure to warm the cockles on a frosty night; www.epicurious.com offers an excellent recipe for this perfect cocktail nibble Feel free to gussy up straws with garlic and/or herbs

Never too filling, and always elegant, is a platter of raw oysters set on a bed of ice At our house, we gravitate toward crisp Chablis, Sancerre or Blanc de Blanc champagne (or, possibly, dark beer) to match with the briny mollusks. Carrying far less of a price tag is another classic match from the Loire in France Muscadet, also called Melon de Bourgogne and not to be confused with the sweetish Muscat A good bottle is bone dry, buoyant with bracing acidity and a touch of citrus Best drunk in its youth, Muscadet should also possess lip smacking saline and mineral flavours); great with the salty tang of kusshis or kumamotos

For folks tucking into tourtière on Christmas Eve, the obvious quaffer is Quebecois beer However, if the pie is made with veal, rabbit or pork, defy tradition and pop the cork on a dr y, new world Riesling or butter y Chardonnay. If game or ground beef dominate, a pepper y Syrah from the northern Rhône or a medium bodied fruity Zinfandel works wonders with this French Canadian treat

Over the New Year, northern Italians celebrate with Cotechino, a coarse grained spiced sausage dished up with lentils Valpolicella “Ripasso” from the Veneto or a Piemontese Barbera both possess enough fine tannins, structure and acidity to measure up to the plump sausage’s texture and taste

Homage has to be paid to the sublime marriage of vintage port and English Stilton However, that wonderful sweet and salty zip/zap on the tongue can be had with a quality Oloroso and a wedge of Cabrales, a heavily veined blue cheese from Spain. A nice twist on the classic

Chocolate lovers can go in search of Banyuls, port’s cousin and made in the south of France Fashioned in the same way as port, but showing less sweetness, this fortified wine partners well with bitter chocolate A thimble full of Banyuls accompanied by a chocolate madeleine or square of top notch dark chocolate bids a gracious adieu to a festive meal

The pairings listed here are only a few of the classic food and drink matches ideal for the holiday season They provide plenty of pleasure anytime, but none better than on a winter’s eve or a festive occasion among family and friends.

A Local Story.

Every week a batch of Hollie Wood’s fresh Satori oysters makes its 100 mile journey from Denman Island to the Marina Restaurant. And every week we send any extra oysters back to be re-seeded. Nothing wasted, unbelievably fresh. Just one of the stories that make up our plates each day. Stunning Views

Victoria designer JC Scott believes slow food principles are a natural for interior design

100-Mile Design

Interior designer and hospitality planner JC Scott has amassed an impressive body of work, including 23 notable restaurants and pubs in Victoria and Vancouver, as well as high end residences, resorts and stores Scott is the visionary behind The Teahouse in Stanley Park, Victoria’s Marina Restaurant, The Oyster Bar in Pescatore’s, The London Chef and Swan’s Hotel, as well as many distinctively beautiful Victoria buildings and homes In his spacious, green workspace/gallery/home in Fan Tan Alley, Scott has been immersed in applying 100 Mile Diet principles to sustainable interior design The fruits of his aesthetic imagination can be seen at his eco Design Gallery in Chinatown and at HeartH eco Design Gallery, Sidney, where furniture with a Zen sensibility, built by local artisans from locally sourced materials, is displayed

“My concept of 100 Mile Design is partly a tribute to the locavore movement and the 100 Mile Diet,” says the long time environmentalist “I believe the same principles can be applied to design, by supporting local artisans, materials and suppliers and low ering the carbon footprint Pursuing those goals in the food we eat and our surroundings also supports the local economy I’d like to see people take full responsibility for what they eat and the environments in which they do it ”

Scott believes slow food movement fundamentals terrain, product, place and social activity can be employed in interior design “It comes down to repurposing a sense of community around food,” says Scott, who has put considerable effort into trying to get a permanent year round public market established in Victoria

Scott’s ultimate fantasy design project is a restaurant that marries 100 Mile Design principles with 100 Mile Diet principles in all aspects, from ingredients served to build ing materials “That would include wood harvested on Vancouver Island and stone quarried on the island where streams aren’t being polluted I’d love to find a client committed to having a locally sourced menu in a locally sourced environment ”

“I envision a restaurant as local and West Coast as possible, a bouillabaisse of authentic Vancouver Island cuisine and Vancouver Island design aesthetic Let’s go further,” Scott says, “and merge our regional cuisine with regional design ” Contact JC Scott at eco Design Gallery, 17½ Fan Tan Alley (2nd floor), by calling 250 385 9545

R e b e c c a W e l l m a n

by Sylvia Weinstock

trending — by Elizabeth Smyth

Nights of the Long Table

Long table dining is all about the three Cs: community, conviviality and cost.

“At dinner parties more than anywhere else, life is lived in company.”

Cicero

Once a month, 30 people gather in Victoria A few know each other already; most do not Some come with one other person, some come with a small group, some come alone, but none of those configurations matter by the end of the evening. For by then, those small groups have merged into one big group, at one moment listening raptly to information about different regions of Italy, at another rapturously enjoying foods of or in the style of the region At the end of July, the focus was the Campania province, and the menu included insalata caprese with soft buffalo mozzarella and exquisite, silky oil; Pacific halibut with butter sauce and sofrito roasted fingerling potatoes; hand stretched, wood fired Pizze Napolitano; and fresh berries with limoncello zabaglione

My fellow guests and I were at the monthly long table dinner at Pizzeria Prima Strada in Victoria, where each month manager Andrew Johnson presents a different menu based on a different province of Italy, complete with matching wines Coming together to share a meal, of course, goes back to ancient times and was a big part of

R e b e c c a W

e l l m a n

A long table gathering at Pizzeria Prima Strada

medieval Christian life, with approximately 50 feast days per year. But lately there has been a surge of long table dining in restaurants In the U S , Frankies Spuntino in Brooklyn and the East Village is offering regular banquet style dining Closer to home, in the Okanagan, Joy Road Catering presents a Thursday Winemakers Culinary Series and Sunday Alfresco Vineyard Dining at God’s Mountain Estate, with local ingredients incorporated into dishes like cold pea soup and house made charcuterie In Pemberton this past summer, with the promise of more coming next summer, Araxi Restaurant held three long table meals at North Arm Farm featuring Mission Hill wines and intriguing menu items like duck liver parfait with rosemar y, and zucchini flowers stuffed with Okanagan goat cheese In Vancouver, Salt and the Irish Heather have long tables At Salt, winemaker (or brewmaker in some cases) dinners are held weekly, served with Salt’s signature char cuterie and artisanal cheeses; at the Irish Heather, it’s all about family style dinners.

featuring roast beef and Yorkshire pudding, grilled pork ribs, lamb burgers, leg of lamb, half a Cornish hen, and more Community and conviviality are certainly goals of these dinners; the website describes the long table as “an intimate gathering of friends, old and new,” and “like coming home to Sunday dinner.” But where these long table dinners stand out is cost; the meal is $16, including

body should not be divorced from the higher pleasures of feeding the mind.” This deeper understanding of culture builds community

In New York City, Mario Batali’s Babbo is also doing a monthly dinner and talk with wines lovingly selected from the restaurant’s cellar; here the culture comes with quite a price; the cost can go up to $695!

“eating at the long table is a coveted experience.”

an artisan beer This highlights one reason for the revival in long table dining haute cuisine is not affordable for some during a recession, and in the United States in particular, restaurants have had to adjust To be frank, a long table is also economical for a restaurant; for instance, a group of tables that would normally ser ve 12 can be combined to feed 20 in the same space.

What is spurring this revival in long table dining? Three Cs: community, conviviality and cost A look at three different restaurant’s schedules and formats reveals these qualities in more depth

The Irish Heather’s long table dinners happen four times a week The emphasis is on hearty, with different nights

The monthly format of Pizzeria Prima Strada comes with a strong cultural component, as guests get to enjoy some education about the region Interestingly, this connection between food and education hearkens back to Greek and Roman feasting traditions. As Roy Strong says in his book Feast: A History of Grand Eating, the Greeks and Romans believed that “the pleasures of feeding the

A long table can also be an annual event; Ottavio’s in Victoria held an Italian family dinner in August as a fundraiser for the Single Parent Resource Centre Peter Zambri cooked, Jo Zambri ser ved and Ottavio’s owners, among others, donated time and food For $100 per person, guests enjoyed Oyama charcuterie, Metchosin leg of lamb and playful “gelato surpriso” with fizzy, bubbling, hot rock candy tucked inside More important, hard pressed single parents in the community get to benefit from the restaurateurs’ and guests’ contributions A long table dinner as a fundraiser clearly fits into the “C” of community building, while the guests simultaneously enjoyed the conviviality of the event

But long table dining may not be for ever yone On a Bon Appetit blog post in June of this year, Los Angeles food writer Jason Kessler declared, “I’m sick of communal dining!” He explained how he has eaten at some com munal tables where people start their meals at different

chocolaterie patisserie cafe

Founded in the traditions of internationally acclaimed maître pâtissier Thierry Busset’s native France, Thierry offers a contemporary approach to the finest handcrafted chocolates, macarons, pastries, and desserts. Whether you drop by for a mid-morning cappuccino and croissant, a leisurely lunch, or a post-dinner dessert and drink on our licensed patio, Thierry is designed to uplift the spirits. m – f 7 am – midnight s + s 9 am – midnight

times, with the result that some are finishing while others are just beginning He also complained about not wanting to interact with more people after a day rub bing shoulders with New Yorkers and likened sitting beside a stranger at dinner to eating in a subway.

It is in fact worth noting that the term “long table” is used for two different for mats. The one I went to at Pizzeria Prima Strada, like many others, started at a fixed time with a fixed menu; in contrast, some restaurants have a long, communal table where peo ple just join when they come When Sean Heather started his at Salt in Vancouver, he definitely had to train his customers to sit there In fact, he laughingly admitted to me that he had to resort to out and out trickery to get some people to give it a try, telling people the two person tables were reser ved so they had to tr y out the long table It took about five weeks for Vancouverites to get it Now eating at the long table is a coveted experience

My experience with long table dining at Pizzeria Prima Strada was one of being … embraced The restaurateur greeted everybody personally as if he were inviting them to a party, which, in effect, he was I went on my own, but the guests around me immediately turned and introduced themselves to me and included me in their groups After all, we were sharing a passion for food and an openness to being part of a food loving commu nity. Amazingly, not a single cellphone was answered. As Ottavio, head chef Derek Lafram boise wisely puts it, “Dining in the company of others is an antidote to the modern digital age ” Long table dining will not be a passing trend but a long term shift because it speaks to a fundamental human drive to connect not just to food but to one another

Pizzeria Prima Strada, 2960 Bridge St , Victoria, www pizzeriaprimastrada com

Salt Tasting Room, 46 Blood Alley, Vancouver, salttastingroom com

The Irish Heather, 210 Carrall St , Vancouver, www irishheather com

Frankies Spuntino, 457 Court St , Brooklyn, NY, www frankiesspuntino com Joy Road Catering, Okanagan Valley, www joyroadcatering com Babbo, New York, NY, www babbonyc com

Araxi Restaurant, 4222 Village Square, Whistler, www araxi com Ottavio Italian Baker y & Delicatessen, 2232 Oak Bay Ave , Victoria, www ottaviovictoria com

left: The Araxi Long Table at Nor th Arm Farm in Pember ton top: An intimate gathering at one of Irish Heather’s Long Table Series (LTS).

Almonds, the most nutritious of all tree nuts, are indispensable for Christmas and Hanukkah cookies, cakes and confections They also shine in the savoury realm, in turkey or goose stuffing and many other seasonal dishes. These versatile nuts can be blanched, toasted, spiced, sugar coated, chocolate covered, made into almond extract, ground into flour, or pulverized and strained to make almond milk.

Almonds are an ideal companion for trout, green beans or baked brie and enhance tagines and pilafs. Slivered almonds are used to make East Indian chicken patiala.

Ground almonds are used to thicken Spanish romesco sauce, which is ser ved on seafood, chicken or vegetables, and they add crunchy texture to chicken korma.

Almond bark, frangipane (almond meal pastry cream used to fill or top cakes, tarts and pastries), mandelbrot (Jewish almond biscotti), rugelach (crescent shaped Hanukkah cookies, made with cream cheese dough and various fillings, including apricot jam and almonds) and panforte (a dense, chewy, Italian spiced cake laden with almonds, hazelnuts and candied citron) are popular seasonal treats Almond paste (finely ground blanched almonds, sugar, egg whites and almond extract) and marzipan (almond paste with added confectioner’s sugar and flavouring) are used to make holiday pastries, cakes, macaroons, pies and confectionery In shell almonds, and other yummy nuts in their shells, are available in early winter, the perfect time for the leisurely pastime of cracking nuts by a crackling fire

Every European country has its almond dessert specialties Spanish almond cookies (polvorones), almond crumble cakes (mantecados) and almond nougat candy (turrón) are delectable treats Almond torte (glykisma amygthalou) and amygthalota, a pear shaped cookie made with ground almonds, semolina and orange flower water, with a clove at one end as the pear stem, are beautiful Greek desserts Brazilian marzipan stuffed wrinkled prunes are cheekily known as “mother in law’s eyes ” Spicy pfeffernüsse and mandelspritzgeback are classic German Christmas almond cookies. Italian almond desserts include amaretti cookies and calcionetti (“fritters of the Christmas vigil,” nicknamed “little kicks”). French cuisine offers bresiliennes (rum, coffee, chocolate and almond balls), amandes glacées (such as ginger glazed almonds with a hit of cayenne) and almond cookies like les dames blanches and cuisses des dames (ladies’ thighs) A popular Portuguese dessert, sweet scrambled eggs with almonds and port, would make a wonderful Christmas breakfast.

Drink a toast to the season and to delicious almonds with ratafia (brandy flavoured with almonds and fruit) amaretto, or glogg, a hot spiced punch made with almonds, raisins, aquavit or brandy, traditionally served during Advent

Biblical Chicken

A traditional Jewish dish perfect for any festive seasonal dinner. Makes 6 ser vings.

6 skinless, boneless chicken breasts

2 Tbsp flour

Salt and black pepper, to taste

3 Tbsp olive oil

3 Tbsp butter

1 cup blanched slivered almonds

2/3 cup orange juice

2 tsp grated lemon rind

1 1/4

2 small oranges, peeled, thinly sliced, and cut in half

Juice of half a lemon

1/2 cup large black raisins

Preheat oven to 350°F. Sprinkle chicken with flour, salt and pepper. In a large frying pan, heat oil and butter and sauté almonds until golden Remove nuts and

drain on paper towels

Use the same fat to sauté chicken on both sides until golden brown, then transfer to a large baking dish and arrange in one layer Discard as much fat as possible, but retain the browned bits in the pan. Add orange juice, lemon rind, chicken stock and wine to the pan, stirring to incorporate pan residue. Stir in honey and bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer 3 to 4 minutes Pour sauce over chicken, cover and bake 20 minutes

Transfer chicken to an ovenproof ser ving dish and arrange orange slices on top Cover and keep warm in a low oven Pour sauce into a small pan with lemon juice and raisins and bring to a boil. Sim mer 2 to 3 minutes, until thickened. Adjust seasoning if necessary. Pour sauce over chicken, sprinkle with almonds and ser ve

Spread holiday cheer with locally made teas, exquisite teaware and wonderful tea gift sets. Make spirits bright with a gift certificate to our in-store spa, or a gift basket of our locally made organic body and skincare products.

Festivitea

Chai Rum & Egg Nog

Infuse 6 tbsp. Silk Road Chai tea in 2 cups Rum. Wait 20 min & strain out tea leaves. Combine 2 oz. Silk Road Chai infused Rum & 6 oz. Egg Nog over ice in tumbler. Garnish with a sprinkle of nutmeg & cinnamon sticks.

SilkRoadVictoria @silkroadtea

I’d been mulling over what could go in the Demitasse’s old space at Blanshard and Johnson for a couple of months What would work there? A tricky location, what with the Atrium food hive and hub nearby I even dallied with the idea of a retail spot; hats and sunglasses, anyone? Then I saw the sign: Shine Café. A downtown location to complement the popular Fort and Belmont spot I smiled wide and shook my head Well, played, sir A solid chess move I would not have divined

Upon arrival I am greeted a few times by a cluster of friendly, bustling servers It’s 10 a.m. on a Tuesday and the first section is chockers with a table of workmen, a few couples and two singles all chatting, eating and absently wiping various versions of hollandaise from their chins

They have renovated the old space and it is spacious, bright, vibrant and energetic the sunbeams fanning off the back wall direct me to read the blackboards: Farmer Ben’s eggs from Duncan, locally sourced meat from The Village Butcher, Fernwood Coffee, gluten free and vegan options The walls set off the stained glass windows and the room seems to have doubled in size and height Wonderful and welcoming

I order a cappuccino and the Canadian Benny with bacon, brie, sautéed mushrooms, bell peppers and hollandaise. It is gorgeous. The hollandaise is a rich velvet, commingling with the brie and the chopped crispy bacon’s saltiness, which settles in with the slippery mushrooms The eggs are medium poached perfectly, and the fried tomato slices are firm and a bit tart The cap is, well, fine I should have just gone with the drip. Shine is not all about the coffee. I appreciate that. My friend enjoys the blintzes: two sweet cheese crêpes with house made blueberry and lemon compote and sour cream They are fresh and sweet but also well balanced and grounded by the slight

crust and the thin but solid crêpe

Shine Café’s menu is extensive, fairly priced and yummy They also offer a lunch menu as they are open seven days a week, 7 to 5

For those who love Shine’s other location but find parking a bit tricky or simply too packed on the weekend, problem solved Check mate Gillie Easdon

Restaurant Watc h

OPENING SOON

Bigwheel Burger, Victoria, (soon)

Smoken Bones, Victoria, (Dec 2011)

Bin 4 Burger Lounge, Victoria, (soon)

The Union, Vancouver (Dec 2011)

L’Of ficio, Vancouver (spring 2012)

New Wild Rice, Vancouver, (late fall 2011) Bitter, Vancouver (soon)

Riso Foods Inc, Lantzville (early winter)

RECENTLY OPENED

The Black Hat, Victoria, www theblackhat ca/ Bella Montagna, Victoria, bearmountain ca/Dining/BellaMontagna Bubby’s Kitchen, Victoria, bubbyskitchen ca

Shine Café, Victoria, shinecafe ca

Le Petit Dakar, Victoria (no website)

The Mint Upstairs, Victoria, themintvictoria com Flavour, Victoria, 123 Gorge Rd East

Terrain Regional Kitchen, Cowichan Bay Edible Canada, Vancouver, ediblecanada com

Trilussa Pizza and Pane, Vancouver, trilussa ca

Save On Meats, Vancouver, saveonmeats ca

Ensemble, Vancouver, ensemblerestaurant com

Campagnolo Roma, Vancouver, campagnoloroma com

Pink Elephant Thai, Vancouver, pinkelephantthai com Outpost Café, Vancouver, theoutpostcafe ca

Flying Canoe West Coast Pub, Cour tenay, flyingcanoe ca

Café Regalade, Vancouver, caferegalade com

Oakwood Canadian Bistro, Vancouver, theoakwood ca

Pronto, Vancouver, prontocaf fe ca

Fray, Vancouver, (no website)

The Rumpus Room, Vancouver (no website)

Hawkswor th Vancouver, hawkswor threstaurant com

Ora Kitchen & Bar, Kelowna, orakitchen ca

Latin Fiesta, Kelowna, (no website)

Dawett Indian Restaurant, Kelowna, dawett ca Gaby’s Grill, West Kelwona, (no website)

Saint German Café Galler y, Penticton, saintgermaincafegaller y wordpress com

Shine Café’s Canadian Benny with roasted tomatoes and Scottish potato scone, plus cappucino

Birch Syrup & Kasu Marinated Sablefish

Perfectly placed in the South Okanagan

Edible Vancouver was born in 2005 and very shortly after became the rather small but vital Edible B.C., both culinary tourism ventures designed to showcase the province’s abundance Now, in a former woodworking co op that lies catty corner from Granville Island’s east entrance, is 3,500 square feet of Edible Canada under whose fir beamed roof are a 150 seat bistro with bar and open kitchen, a separate demonstration kitchen, a retail store and a large patio complete with handy take out Salt Spring coffee window and framed by window boxes filled with herbs, kale and chard Inside, seating is crafted from recycled materials

The theme of Edible Canada may well be pan Canada cuisine, but it is more of a work in progress than a sea to shining sea wave of the maple leaf. Vancouver chef, hotel consultant and entrepreneur Eric Pateman, who has been the brains behind all of these ventures, admits it will take time to phase in national products So the menu remains chiefly “B C ” with chef Jennifer Dodd trotting to Granville Island Market daily for local ingredients

The out of towners who packed the patio on a sunny August Sunday clearly were not quibbling with the eatery’s culinary nod to the nation They were far more fixated on their Canadian burger, a thick chunk of Fraser Valley beef that gets additional help from Oyama’s double smoke bacon, smokehouse cheddar and a top note of delicious house made ketchup that owes its zing more to the tomato than to sugar and vinegar The gluten free, rice flour battered fish and duck fat fried chips, as well as onion rings with buttermilk aioli, were also a big draw

Others slurped seafood soup, abundant with side stripe prawns, clams, mussels and whitefish in a pool of perfumey coconut and lemongrass broth The concoction reminds you of Indonesian laksa without the noodles. (Incidentally, Pateman defends his use of imported Asian ingredients since they are acquired from “the market.”)

Quesnel’s Sweet Tree Birch Syrup, for purchase on the retail side, outstrips maple syrup sales four to one It also makes its way into the kitchen The treacle like liquid meets something called kasu (the lees left over from Vancouver’s own Osake sake) to splendidly glaze sablefish The gently sweet fish (aka Alaska black cod) is roasted just enough to maintain its butter y integrity Far less successful is the over sauteed medley of beans on which the fish reposes

A preview of the winter menu promised homey with a twist comfort fare such as elk tourtière and a roasted cauliflower soup with Benedictine blue cheese from Que bec Written down as well were Peace Countr y smoked bison short ribs, braised Saskatchewan lentils and winter kale, and a tasty sounding salad of albacore tuna, squash and fingerling potatoes tossed in a mustard sherr y vinaigrette Shaved cauliflower, broccoli and kale will hopefully be a more comfortable bed than the sum mer’s bean mixture

The drinks list offers decent geographic scope Sommelier Treve Ring does an admirable job sourcing beers, whiskey and wines from the provinces (and Yukon territory). And a Pemberton’s Schramm vodka Caesar garnished with crispy bacon and rimmed with bacon salt is a paean to that Canadian invented cocktail

So is Edible Canada a definitive Canadian restaurant? Not really Will it be? Time will tell It is early days and this is still very much a work in progress The proof will be in the pudding or, more accurately, in the butter tart or the Nanaimo bar Julie Pegg

Perfectly placed on rich South Okanagan farmland, Tinhorn Creek overlooks the old gold mining creek that is the winery’s namesake. We are environmental stewards of 150 acres of vineyards: “Diamondback” on the Black Sage Bench, and “Tinhorn Creek” on the Golden Mile Bench. Both provide us with the fruit to craft the superb, terroir driven wine that we’re known for. Our top tier Oldfield Series represents the finest of each vintage.

www.tinhorn.com

While the Napoletana style of Italian thin crust pizza seems to have covered Vancouver with a fine cloud of buffalo mozzarella, it’s no longer the only game in town The Lazio region of Italy, home to the Eternal City, has its own style of pizza, and Alessandro Fonseca’s dream child, Trilussa, has been bringing that style to Little Mountain locals since mid June

Fonseca himself is a born and bred Roman, a member of the Associazione Pizzerie Italiane and a former baking instructor who has ser ved Roman flatbread at the Vatican. His expansive personality extends to everyone who enters his small café, and he hands out his fresh from the oven pane to everyone who walks in the door with a “go ahead I dare you not to love it” joy

He specializes in the classic Italian thin crust pizza, but in the classic Roman style What makes it different from the pies in Naples? For a start, the pizzas at Trilussa are sold al taglio, meaning “by the slice,” as well as whole. This also refers to the shape of the long rectangular crusts, which are slightly thicker than a traditional Neapolitan crust but still less than a centimetre thick and have a bit more chew to them, along the lines of a moist English muffin The prices range from $5 25 to $7 95 for a few square slices, or get a whole 30 inch long flatbread for around $25 (half sizes also avail able) He even has a dessert pizza that changes with the day and the season (my last visit saw a strawberry version)

As for toppings, while the menu includes classics like the Margherita (tomato, basil, mozza) and Milano (prosciutto cotto, mozza), the real winners are the cold specialty pizzas like the Caprese (tomato, bocconcini and organic salad) and the Vancouver (salmon and organic salad) The Capri (potatoes, pesto and pecorino) is another winner from the hot list, as are the pane bianca, fresh loaves of bread that come out of the oven all day, and can be bought whole to take home ($5 95 for a large) Fonseca also uses those same pane for the panini he crafts, like the Ischia (Italian tuna salad) and the Paris (marinated portobello mushroom, brie and avocado spread)

Trilussa has made pizza by the slice cool again Want to bet this is the next gastro trend? Anya Levykh

Owner, Alessandro Fonseca with a selection of his Roman style pizzas

Eating Well for Less

Bubby’s Kitchen | 355 Cook St. at Oscar| 250 590 8915

Bubby’s Kitchen is a new venture in Cook Street Village, serving dinner for the first time in the Bubby restaurant family history. This new space is the next best thing to being at the beach It’s sunny and spacious with a woodsy, eco theme Guests sit on a cob bench studded with cordwood, local driftwood gracing the tops of the seats The tables are made of pulverized sunflower seeds, some of the walls are American clay plaster, and cabinets are made of pressed wheat kernel. The Farmer’s Market Salad is in keeping with this outdoorsy theme a generous and jubilant mix of greens, grated beet, string beans cleverly julienned, rounds of onion, radish, almonds and pepitas with basil agave dressing for $8 Another light choice is the soup of the day for $5 95 The day I went it was roasted red pepper and lentil in a coconut milk base and served with a soft and buttery buttermilk bun from the Bubby Rose’s Bakery up the road. The Thai chicken and noodle salad is simple and good, with its scoop of noodles, bean sprouts, cucumber sticks, sliced red peppers, grated carrot and sliced My only quibble is that the entire salad could use more of the Thai peanut sauce that’s on the chicken it turns out the server will happily bring you extra if you ask. But Bubby’s Kitchen also offers more filling, down home food in the form of burgers and a “hot dog” from carefully sourced, hormone and antibiotic free chicken, beef and bison Burger prices range from $10 to $15 Jesse’s Bleu Bison Burger is definitely a grown up’s burger A thin butter bun with lots of sesame seeds is stuffed with bison, caramelized onions, shallot aioli and blue cheese To complete the range on the menu, the Wild Mush room Ravioli, at $14, is a fine bistro meal for a casual café Ribbons of leek, fennel and tender portabella are draped over wild mushroom ravioli The citrus peppercorn cream sauce has whispers of both orange and lemon and undertones of leek and scallion. All this can be enjoyed with another update to the Bubby’s line a glass of wine or a beer. Hope Key Restaurant | 1313 Douglas St. near Johnson | 250 382 6048

I’ve walked past the stuffed animal festooned front windows of this place for years, not especially enticed by them to go in until a broker friend of mine revealed that he eats the war won ton soup here at least once a week The warm greeting must be part of the reason. Co owner Brenda seems to be basically a foster mother to Asian students and stockbrokers alike and knows many of her regulars by name and favourite order

(l)The wild mushroom ravioli at Bubby’s Kitchen. (r) Baked goods on display

Dave’s favourite, the war won ton soup for $9.95, contains red edged barbecue pork, plump shrimp, baby bok choi, broccoli and red pepper in a delicate broth, a refresh ing change from the over salted ones I sometimes get The vegetables are fresh and, equally important, crisp, which tells me they haven’t been simmering in a pot all day On Tuesdays, it’s offered as a dinner special for $12.95, along with an appetizer and dessert, so that can’t be beat Other dishes I sampled were similarly light, fresh and not heavily sauced and flavoured Hope Key does something unusual for a lower end Chinese restaurant; they emphasize fresh vegetables, hand selecting them from Old Farm Market in Duncan, and they de emphasize sauces, only lightly seasoning their stir fries and inviting guests to help themselves to an array of bottled sauces at the sauce table You might like this approach, you might not My Vegetarian Special, cashew nut vegetable chop suey, for $8 95, was a generous platter of fresh vegetables, silky tofu, nuts and shitake mushrooms. I chose to supplement it with some black bean sauce. Hope Key restaurant also has a following for its bubble tea, something I’ve avoided in the past, but it’s so prominent on their menu I was obliged to be brave Happily, I can now see why this is the place to go for bubble tea; theirs are actually fresh fruit smoothies, and the little star jellies are really cute If you have children, you must go here they will receive a hero’s welcome. Besides, there are those stuffies in the window to play with

Restaurant food is now available at Fisherman’s Wharf Traipse down the ramp, past Barb’s Fish and Chips and stop at The Fish Store, which is much more than a fish store Your fish and chip craving can certainly be gratified here Try a crisp, golden, non greasy halibut fry up served with the best tartar sauce I’ve had (made zesty with two different kinds of pickle) It is this kind of detail that makes me call this “restaurant food ” There’s a similar attention to detail in the fish tacos, which include house smoked tomatoes in the fiery salsa Halibut and prawn fritters are, of course, made in house. These deep amber balls of goodness have chunks of seafood seasoned with shallots, lemon zest and cilantro and are served with a citrus cream You’re getting the hearty food you want when you’re sitting dockside on a picnic table, but with a touch of sophistication The smoked fish platter is beautiful to behold: a generous amount of deep red smoked salmon, four triangles of ver y smoky tuna and mixed greens topped with a swirl of lacy carrots and an upright wedge of Portofino bakery bread. Once again, that signature sophisticated twist the sparkling salad dressing includes preserved lemons and Japanese ponzu sauce Soups are also good Halibut Malu has fish stock, red lentils, curry and lime, and the seafood chowder is suitably fresh and

Hope Key restaurant’s Wor Won Ton soup. Owner Brenda Deng.

It all started with two blokes, Chris Boehm and Steve Jones, taking a Vegas road trip and getting more than a little tired of the lacklustre fare along the way A dozen bland burgers later, the idea for Burger 55 was born

You wouldn’t think much of it if you drove by A tiny shack sits on a back road off Main Street in Penticton. Some picnic tables on each side mark the dining area. Inside, there’s just enough room to order your food while watching the two afore mentioned multitasking wonders behind the counter build towering constructs of meat, bread and bloody good toppings There’s always a rush at lunch, and the fax machine behind the cash register is constantly busy spitting out group orders. Ordering is done off a large form Once you’ve checked your choice of beef, turkey, wild salmon, portobello mushroom, etc all starting around the six to seven dollar mark it’s time to move on to bread or a wrap or salad and toppings Here’s where things get really interesting. Once you decide on some “basics” like sprouts, cilantro, roasted garlic, pico de gallo or beet strings (any four are included), you can jazz things up with drunk caramelizes onions, a fried egg, eight different kinds of cheese, and sauces ranging from the secret house sauce to tzatiki and even peanut butter. If you’re brave, check off the “freestyle” box and let the guys surprise you with one of their custom masterpieces

My first visit, I took my cholesterol in my hands and went freestyle The result was a moist, rich beef burger on a cheese, herb and onion bun, topped with house sauce, beet strings, grilled peaches, sautéed mushrooms, caramelized onions and goat’s cheese Once I’d figured out the mechanics of eating it (get ready to open wide and don’t even think of going in one handed), it was a raunchy burst of flavours and textures. The side of whiskey onion rings turned out to be superfluous as far as hunger went, but made a nice afternoon snack on the drive home.

It might have been the best burger I’ve ever tasted but I’ll be going back regularly just to be sure Anya Levykh

Recipes and food styling by JENNIFE R DANTE R • Photography by MICHAEL TOURIGNY • Wine pairing by TREVE RI NG

chic + casual DESSERT

The knack to enjoying entertaining is to choose a menu that’s easy to prepare and serve Stress levels go through the roof this time of year, so choose food you are comfortable cooking. Dishing it up buffet style keeps things casual and creates an informal atmosphere that’s relaxed yet still elegant and do mix old silver treasures with modern serving pieces to fashion a ontemporary look. This menu is designed for speed, ease and full flavour without working around the clock.

Celebration Salmon

A big side of salmon says “special occasion” and looks spectacular without giving away how easy it is Smothering it with crème fraiche boosts flavour and helps lock in moisture. Serves 8

2 to 3 lb side of wild Pacifc salmon, pin bones removed

Sea salt and ground black pepper

11/2 cups crème fraiche, store bought or homemade (then you’ll need buttermilk) ¼ cup grainy Dijon mustard

¼ cup chopped chives

¼ cup chopped fresh parsley, cilantro or tarragon

1 orange

Preheat oven to 475F Generously season fish with salt and pepper

Mix crème fraiche with mustard and herbs Spread 1/3 of mixture evenly over fish, then grate peel from orange overtop Place salmon on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.

Roast in oven until salmon is cooked as you like If your fish is about 11/2 in at thickest part Roast 10 to 15 minutes Roast 8 to 12 minutes if you like it pink in the centre Slice into 8 portions and arrange on a platter Dish up with remaining crème fraiche on the side.

DIY Crème Fraiche: Heat 2 cups 35% whipping cream until warm Stir in 3 Tbsp buttermilk Pour into a glass bowl and loosely cover Let stand, in a warm place (try top of the fridge) until slightly thick, about 24 hours If it’s still too runny, move to a warmer place and leave for another 6 to 12 hours Refrigerate until ready to use it will keep well up to 1 week.

Roasted Squash & Braised Kale

Roast the squash a few hours ahead of time (then reheat) but cook the kale just before ser ving it will look and taste better. "look for organic or farm fresh herbs and vegetables

4 cups peeled and cubed butternut squash

1 acorn or delicata squash, cut into rings

1 red onion, sliced

Fresh thyme sprigs

Olive oil

Sea salt and ground black pepper

1 bunch kale

2 slices bacon, chopped (an artisan, thick cut, dry cured bacon won’t curl)

2 garlic cloves, minced

1/3 cup dry white wine (a non oaked, BC will keep it local)

Place both types of squash in a large bowl and add onion and thyme. Drizzle with oil and generously sprinkle with salt and pepper Toss, then spread out on a baking sheet

Roast in preheated 425F oven until squash is tender, about 15 to 20 minutes

Meanwhile, cut out large centre ribs and stems from kale Cut leaves cross wise into thick slices. In a large wide frying pan, sauté bacon over medium heat. When crispy, add garlic and cook until light golden, about 1 minute. Remove to a small plate but leave bacon fat in pan

Increase heat to medium high Add kale stir fry for 1 minute to absorb bacon fat Pour in wine Stir constantly until kale has wilted, 5 minutes Turn into a large bowl and add bacon and garlic. Add cooked squash and onions. Toss to mix, the place on a serving platter

MBA’s: Mini Baked Alaska’s

These wintry snowballs look fantastic yet require minimal effort. And there’s lots of wiggle room for the non baker: buy pound cake or chocolate muffins or a pan of store bought brownies for the base Stop by your favourite food shop and pick up the most eye catching gelato or sorbet for the filling

1 loaf pound cake or 4 chocolate muffins or 8 inch pan brownies

8 large scoops gelato, ice cream or sorbet (many local producers make a range of flavours)

8 egg whites, at room temperature (buy farm fresh eggs for the freshest taste) ½ tsp cream of tartar

½ tsp vanilla extract

Pinch of salt

1 cup granulated sugar

Cut pound cake into 8 thick slices. Using a 2 inch circular cookie cutter or knife, cut or trim slices into rounds If using muffins, cut in half horizontally and trim so halves sit flat Cut brownies into 8 small rounds Eat the scraps!

Place rounds on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper Top with a generous scoop of ice cream and pack down to remove air bubbles. Try to press ice cream into pucks that evenly fit the round cake base Keep in freezer while making meringue

Using an electric mixer, beat egg whites with cream of tartar, vanilla and a pinch of salt until frothy Continue to beat and gradually add sugar, a spoonful at a time, until stiff, glossy peaks form.

Place cake rounds on a baking sheet Divide meringue and spoon over rounds, covering completely Swirl with the back of spoon to make peaks Freeze at least 30 minutes or overnight if making ahead

Bake in preheated 450 oven until meringue is light golden, about 4 minutes. Or using a crème brulee torch, lightly brown meringue.

WINE PAIRING

Celebration Salmon: Go wit h an ear t hy, lighter red wine from a cooler climate like Joie Farm's PTG (Pinot Noir & Gamay blend) from Naramata in the Okanagan, or a 100% Pinot Noir from Oregon's Willamette Valley Dundee Hills area Treve Ring

Choose your favourite cake and ice cream to fill your baked Alaska. We chose chocolate brownie and apricot gelato.

master cooking class

Text and food styling by DENISE MARCHESSAULT Photography by C AROLI NE WEST

Sweet

Chr istmas

Sweet clouds of meringue are laced with tar t cranberr y purée.

My holiday mantra this year is “keep it simple (and sweet).” Holidays are already busy enough with shopping, decorating and entertaining, so this season I’ve opted for an easy approach to festive treats, one that meets my holiday criteria of simple, beautiful and delicious. I’ve provided three sweet and easy recipes that dazzle without difficulty: cranberry laced meringue, gingerbread ornaments and frosted cranberry jellies topped with sugar dusted berries

Beautiful swirls of billowy meringue will be piled high on this year’s holiday dessert table. Crisp on the outside, soft and marshmallow like in the centre, meringues are a treat to enjoy au naturel or ser ved with fruit and whipped cream, pavlova style Meringue wasn’t even on my culinary radar until a trip to France this summer opened my eyes to the beauty of these delicate indulgences. From Bordeaux to Paris, ever y pastr y shop I visited had some sort of meringue offering on display From small and compact to enormous and free form, meringues of every shape stood unadorned and stoic next to the more fashionable macaroons My version includes a swirl of cranberry purée for a splash of colour and a hint of tartness to offset the sweetness. With the help of an electric mixer you can whip up these festive treats in no time Egg whites and sugar are easily transformed into a satiny cloud of meringue and spooned (or piped) onto a tray and baked at a low temperature until crisp. Meringue lends itself to all sorts of creativity, so don’t hesitate to get imaginative: it can be streaked with fruit purées or jam, dusted with cocoa or nuts, coloured with food dye or sprinkled with crushed candy canes, to name but a few alternatives

Sugar-dusted

Every family has its own holiday tradition and ours is baking gingerbread ornaments to adorn the Christmas tree The unmistakable fragrance of gingerbread is our official start to the season, and just a whiff of the dough is enough to send me on a nostalgic reverie of Christmas past These aromatic cookie hearts are a breeze to decorate, delicious to eat and sturdy enough to last on your tree throughout the holidays. Icing piped from a small cone, fashioned from a triangle of parchment paper, allows you to decorate with fine, rather than clunky, embellishments (Paper cones are easy to make and there are plenty of how to videos available online ) Royal icing, made from egg whites and powdered sugar, is ideal for decorating because it firms up and doesn’t turn your ornaments into a sticky mess The key to keeping your cookies picture perfect is to keep your design simple and your icing thin What to do with all those leftover cookies? When you’ve had your fill of decorating and munching, leftover gingerbread can be tossed into the freezer and eventually transformed into delicious crumb crusts (heavenly with pumpkin cheesecake) or used as toppings for fruit cobblers, ice cream, trifle and such

These make ahead sparkling cranberry jellies are refreshingly light and a welcome addition to a cocktail party or a dessert table. Made of cranberry juice and a splash of Grand Marnier, the little grown up jellies are both sweet and tart I’ve dusted the rims of sherry glasses with fine berry sugar before pouring in the fortified juice Once the gelatin does its magic in the refrigerator, the jelly can be topped with a boozy little cranb err y marinated in liqueur and dusted in sugar. Simple and delicious

This holiday season, forgo the fuss and keep it sweet and simple in the kitchen No one need know how truly simple it is.

WINE PAIRING

Bubble, bubble, bubble. For sweets, look for somet hing of f dr y (sec or demi sec). A rosé bubble would match well, especially wit h t he cranberr y festivities Treve Ring

“These easy holiday recipes dazzle without difficulty. ”

FROSTED CRANBERRY

Makes 2 cups

2 cups cranberry juice

2 Tbsp Grand Marnier

1 package (1 Tbsp) unflavoured gelatin

JELLIES

The whole beast

Optional garnish: whole cranberries, soaked overnight in Grand Marnier and rolled in fine sugar just before serving.

In a small saucepan, heat one cup of cranberry juice When the juice is warm, add the gelatin and stir until dissolved Pour the mixture into a large measuring cup with a spout and add the balance of the cranberry juice and the Grand Marnier. Mix until combined and cool slightly

If you wish to add sugar to the rim of your glassware, do this before you add the cranberry juice Pour the sugar onto a small plate Dip the rim of your glassware into a bit of water and then onto the plate with the sugar. Fill the sugar rimmed glassware with the cooled cranberry juice mixture. Refrigerate until set.

If desired, garnish with marinated cranberries Serve chilled, with small spoons

Note: Port can be substituted for the Grand Marnier if you don’t mind an opaque, rather than clear, jelly

CRANBERRY-LACED MERINGUE

Makes makes about 10 12.

4 large egg whites at room temperature

1 cup extra fine granulated sugar (berry sugar)

1 1/2 tsp cornstarch

1/2 tsp white vinegar

Optional: 1/4 cup cranberry purée* or raspberry or strawberry jam

Meringue

Note: Your mixing bowl and whisk must be scr upulously clean (the egg whites will not increase in volume if inadvertently mixed with traces of fat or yolk)

Preheat oven to 250°F

Using a stand up or hand held mixer, beat the egg whites at medium high speed until the volume has tripled. Slowly add the sugar in small batches, continuing to whip as you do so Increase the speed to high and whip until you have glossy, stiff peaks Reduce the speed to low, add the cornstarch and vinegar and whisk until incorporated

The meringue can be gently spooned into 3” 4” portions on a parchment lined baking tray or spooned into a pastry bag and piped onto a lined tray A piping bag, available at cookware stores, will give you a more professional result (I use a piping tip with a 3/4 inch opening ) Alternatively, you can draw uniform circles on the underside of the parchment and spoon the meringue inside the circle templates. (A teacup rim is an ideal size ) If desired, dip a small knife into a bit of fruit purée and gently drag the purée around the unbaked meringues to create a marbled effect

Bake for about an hour until the meringues are dry Turn off the oven and leave the meringues in the oven until they cool. The meringues will crack slightly.

*Cranberry purée

1 package (300 grams) frozen cranberries, thawed

Process thawed cranberries in a blender or food processor and strain through a fine mesh sieve Heat the strained liquid in a small saucepan and slowly reduce until it is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon Leftover purée can be used in various desserts, including muffins, pancakes, cookies and ice cream

The cooled meringues can be stored in an airtight container in a cool, dry place for a few days.

GINGERBREAD ORNAMENTS

This recipe is adapted from one in my tattered, butter stained copy of The Joy of Cook ing

Makes 32 3 inch, heart shaped ornaments You will need Christmas string or ribbon, cookie cutters, parchment paper and plastic wrap to prepare the ornaments.

6 Tbsp unsalted butter, softened

3/4 cup light brown sugar

1 large egg

1/2 cup dark molasses

3 cups all purpose flour

1/4 tsp baking powder

2 tsp ground ginger

2 tsp ground cinnamon

1/4 tsp ground allspice

1/4 tsp salt

Water as needed

Preheat oven to 350°F

In a large bowl, whisk the softened butter and the brown sugar until light and fluffy (A stand up mixer makes this job a breeze ) Add the egg and molasses; mix well In a separate bowl, whisk together the remaining dry ingredients. Add half the flour mixture to the butter mixture and blend well. (If using a stand up mixer, change the whisk to a paddle attachment because the dough will be too firm for a whisk ) Add the remaining flour and mix until you have soft dough If your dough is too firm, add a bit of water, a spoonful at a time, until you have a pliable dough Turn the dough onto a lightly floured work surface and knead until completely blended. Shape into a round disk and cover with plastic until ready to use

To prevent the dough from sticking to your work surface or rolling pin, roll out the dough between a sheet of parchment and plastic wrap (parchment on bottom, plastic wrap on top). Roll the dough, from the centre outwards, into a large disk approximately 1/4 inch thick Remove the plastic wrap, cut into desired shapes, transfer to a parchment lined baking sheet and bake for about 10 12 minutes

While they are still warm, use a skewer to carefully poke a hole into the still soft dough, large enough for your ribbon. Cool completely before decorating with icing sugar.

Note: I tend to bake cookies for or naments a little longer than those destined for eating because the longer they cook, the firmer they become

Royal Icing

This recipe makes more than enough for decorating cookies, so you’ll have plenty left over for all of your edible holiday projects Fortunately, the icing colours beautifully with a drop or two of food dye and it keeps well in the refrigerator, covered, for up to a week.

Makes 2 cups.

3 cups sifted icing sugar

2 egg whites

Using an electric mixer, whip the egg whites with the sifted icing sugar at medium high speed until you have a glossy, meringue like texture, about 3 minutes Spoon your icing into a small piping bag (available at cookware stores) or fashion your own piping cone from a triangle of parchment. (How to videos are available online )

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WINE MYTH BUSTING

False notions about wine can keep us from sipping some delicious gems.

recognizable, and California and Australia were particularly successful at filling the demand Eventually, however, people tired of these over oaked wines, and both Chardonnay and oak gained a bad reputation The ABC club was born: Any thing But Chardonnay People turned their backs on Chardonnay, yet the whites of Burgundy continue to be some of the most sought after. Names like Meursault, Puligny Montrachet and Corton Charlemagne carry plenty of cachet but don’t indicate on the label that they are actually Chardonnay

Today, the pendulum has swung the other way and producers around the world, including California and Australia, have refined their use of oak Oak doesn’t have to hit you over the head like a two by four. It can add a layer of complexity, a nutty quality, a whiff of spice or smoke Sadly, the preconception about Chardonnay remains

play a role in determining whether the wines they make are paler or darker Thin skinned Pinot Noir tends to be paler yet can produce some of the most profound wines Similarly, Nebbiolo, the grape responsible for Barolo and Barbaresco, starts life with a paler garnet hue. Yet on the palate it is full bodied with a firm tannic backbone Wines dominated by Sangiovese (Chianti, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Brunello di Montalcino) often sport a brownish hue. Grenache is another grape that is lighter in colour. The false perception that darker is better has influenced some winemakers to try coaxing more colour out of the above grapes They often end up over extract ing the wine to the detriment of quality Please don’t encourage them by demanding darker wines. Colour also changes as wine ages Reds become paler, taking on a brick hue, while whites darken becoming amber in colour

The world of wine is wonderfully complex, and it’s those intricacies that keep us coming back for more. But we also realize that it can be complicated When you’re in need of a glass of wine, you just want simple answers Unfortunately, in the quest to simplify, many misconceptions have arisen, and sometimes wine drinkers make decisions based on these myths The tragedy is when those myths discourage you from tr ying certain wines Don’t let false prejudices make you turn your back on delicious gems. Below, we address five common myths and have included recommendations that will suit the holiday season

Myth: Chardonnay is too oaky

Too much of a good thing is simply too much. This is the unfortunate conundrum with oak Barrels made of oak have long been used as vessels in which to age wine before bottling They influence the wine in various ways, but the most obvious are the toasty aromas and flavours a new barrel imparts The newer the barrel, the more oak flavours the wine will soak up There is nothing wrong with this, as long as the wine is concentrated enough to support the oak The key is to enhance the wine rather than over whelm it, just like a good chef uses his ingredients judiciously Too much spice can kill a dish Chardonnay has suffered the most from overuse of oak Once upon a time, wine drinkers couldn’t get enough of fat, buttery Chardonnay oozing with toast, caramel and vanilla These obvious aromas and flavours were easily

If you truly prefer your wines without any influence of oak, don’t give up on Chardonnay Some producers avoid using oak altogether and indicate “un oaked” on the label Beyond this, the wines of Chablis are a safe and delight ful bet. They are made from 100 percent Chardonnay and most see little to no oak Oak isn’t exclusive to Chardonnay Other whites and many reds are aged in oak The same requirement of balance applies to them.

2009 Jean Paul & Benoît Droin, Petit Chablis AOC, France $27 31 (SKU #809301)

Juicy green apple and a refreshing minerality We love this crisp, unoaked Chardonnay with its classic pairing of oysters Serve on New Year’s Eve

2008 Vasse Felix, Chardonnay, Margaret River, Australia $32 37*

Nine months in a third new oak keeps things in check A fine balance of toasted nuts, peach, lemon zest and subtle spice Enjoy with a crab feast on New Year’s Day

Myth: Colour is an indication of style and quality

Just as you shouldn’t judge a book by its cover, don’t judge a wine by its colour The “robe” should definitely be admired and can give some clues about the wine, such as grape and age. However, colour doesn’t tell the whole stor y Contrar y to what some people think, darker doesn’t necessarily mean better Is someone with dark chestnut brown hair superior to another with light golden brown locks? A silly question indeed! There are thousands of different grapes and their particular genes

Rosé is often unfairly judged by its appearance That pretty pink colour may remind you of Kool Aid, but that doesn’t mean the wine is sweet or of poor quality Wines like Mateus and white Zinfandel have given a bad rap to our beloved rosé, yet these aren’t representative of the cat egory. Europeans have been making dry rosé for ages. Rosé makes a great aperitif and is extremely food friendly. It can also bring a ray of sunshine when it’s rainy and dark outside

2008 Kenwood Vineyards, Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, California $24 28 (SKU #219881)

Medium bodied with ripe, juicy flavours of strawberries and vanilla Delicious on its own and a great match with grilled salmon, tuna, chicken and, of course, turkey.

2010 Château Miraval, ‘Pink Floyd’ Côtes de Provence Rosé AOC, France $30 35 (SKU #505099)

Pale, onion skin colour Light, delicate and, yes, dr y Subtle nectarine flavours with a hint of spice. Surprise family and friends at Christmas dinner

2007 Fontodi, Chianti Classico DOCG, Italy $34 39 (SKU #533315)

Polished and elegant with savour y flavours of cherries, cinnamon and lingering mineral notes A treat with fowl of all kinds as well as tomato based pasta

Myth: “Sweet” wines are always too sweet

The term “sweet” is used to indicate wines that have some residual sugar, meaning not all of the sugar was converted into alcohol Sweetness ranges from off dr y, medium sweet to fully sweet. Unfortunately, these wines tend to be less fashionable Many people claim to hate sweet wine yet guzzle syrupy soda pop We encourage you to put your prejudices aside When sweetness is balanced by vibrant acidity, the wine can be refreshing and even chuggable. Good Germany Riesling is a quintessential example. Off dry wines are perfectly appropriate with your main course while fully sweet wines are best enjoyed with dessert

It’s easy to confuse fruitiness with sweetness, especially when you’re onto your sec ond glass. Just because a white is bursting with peach and apricot, doesn’t mean it is sweet A wine can possess all those aromas and flavours, but still be dry In this case, we describe it as aromatic and fruity When it comes to reds, wines dominated by jammy flavours may mistakenly be deemed sweet Some people love this style of red while others prefer wines that are less fruit forward, firmer and have more tannin. If the latter is your preference, ask for something that isn’t too fruity (rather than say ing you don’t like sweet wine)

2009 Wolf Blass, ‘Yellow Label’ Riesling, South Australia, Australia $16 19 (SKU # 128660)

A reminder that not all Rieslings are sweet Dry with concentrated flavours of lime and pink grapefruit that work like a charm with Asian food and seafood

2009 Dr. Loosen, Riesling Kabinett, Urziger Wurzgar ten, Ger many $26 30 (SKU #157578)

Minerally with spice, yellow apple and a taut backbone of acidity that cuts through the sweetness Great option for Christmas dinner Taylor Fladgate, 10 year old Tawny Port $40 45 (SKU #121749)

All nuts and dried fruit Definitely sweet and best with dessert Bring on the holiday treats or try with the cheese course

Myth: White with fish and red with meat

Fish is on the menu but you’re craving red Is this a pairing faux pas? Absolutely not! The old “white with fish/red with meat” tenet is based on the sound concept that a light dish works better with a lighter bodied wine while a heartier meal needs a bigger wine to stand up to it. As whites are generally lighter and reds fuller, they have been relegated to fish and meat respectively But rules, of course, were meant to be broken In particular, more robust fish like salmon or tuna work a treat with lighter reds like Pinot Noir and Gamay Remember, the way you prepare your dish will influence its weight. Grilling or broiling as well as accompanying fish with a heartier sauce will definitely “beef” it up As for white with meat, tr y fuller wines such as Chardonnay, Viognier and Alsace Pinot Gris with goose, pork and veal If the white is intense enough, weight doesn’t matter anymore when choosing a partner for potent and exotic meat dishes. Think Riesling with barbecued ribs and Gewürztraminer with Thai beef salad.

2009 Pfaffenheim Pinot Gris, Alsace AOC, France $20 24 (SKU# 61644)

A fuller, richer white with unctuous flavours of pear, lychee and slight mushroom notes. Perfect with turkey.

2009 G Descombes, Morgon AOC, France $29 33 (SKU #162248)

This Gamay from the region of Beaujolais is packed with pure flavours of succulent cherry, bright raspberry and roses. A fabulous red for the traditional holiday meal and equally lovely with salmon.

Myth: Sulfur in wine can be be avoided

Cease your quest for sulfite free wines; they don’t exist Sulfur is a by product of fermentation and a natural element in soil. It’s therefore present in all wine. Further more, sulfur is commonly used in wineries to clean equipment and discourage bacterial flaws in wine Producers add sulfur to ensure that the wine doesn’t oxidize by the time it reaches your glass (Just think of an apple turning brown after you cut into it. This is oxidation.) Each wine region has a maximum permitted amount of sul fur allowed in wine The best you can do is seek producers that are adding only the minimum necessary for the wine to be stable This is more common among smaller boutique wineries In general, large commercial producers tend to have a heavier hand with sulfur.

There is actually a movement among organic and biodynamic producers who are shipping wine without adding any further sulfur before bottling Beware: the quality of these wines varies While they can be fantastic and surprising, others can taste fully oxidized; an acquired taste for sure We do see small quantities of these low/no sulfur added wines on our shelves. Some of the most successful offerings come from Marcel Lapierre, Larmandier Bernier, Jean Foillard and Catherine and Pierre Breton, all French wines

*Available at private wine stores. All other wines available at BC Liquor Stores.

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FOR THE HOLIDAY SEASON

2272 Oak Bay Avenue, Victoria, B.C 250 - 592 - 4080 phone/fax

what to drink with that by Treve Ring

Which wines go best with cheese?

DRINK editor Treve Ring ask s local wine expert s how they would approach pairing dishes and flavours.

This month’s challenge is Triple Cream Brie, Salty Aged Hard Cheese and Strong Blue.

O U R E X P E R T S

Frances Sidhe (FS)

Sommelier, Zambri’s

Frances Sidhe received her Cer tif ication in 2001 and has wor ked as a Sommelier at Zambri’s since t hen She loves t he ric h diversity and unique nature of Italian wines Her wine program recently won both Most Diner Friendly Wine Menu and Best Overall Wine Program in t he 2011 Taste Wine List Awards

DJ Kearney (DJ)

Wine Instructor, Consultant, Chef

DJ Kear ney is a Vancouver based wine educator, wine wr it er, judg e, presenter and chef She has trained hundreds of sommelier candidates from across N or t h Amer ica in Vancouver, Victor ia, Por tland, Las Veg as, Los Angeles, Phoenix, to name a few of her regular lecture destinations A diverse background in wine, food and geology makes her uniquely qualified to guide t he discover y of t he world’s wine regions, t he sharpening of palates, t he understanding of terroir and t he chemistr y of food and wine harmony

Terr y Threlfall (TT)

Sommelier, Wine Director, Hawkswor t h Restaurant

Guided by his love for wine and dedication to his craf t, Terr y has compiled an exciting wine collection at Ha wkswor t h Res t aurant to com pliment t he contemporar y and seasonal cuisine Threlfall’s exper tise s tems from over a decade spent in London, wor king as Head Sommelier and Wine Buyer at Mic helin s t ar red res t aurant, Chez Br uce His t eam won a number of int er national a wards under his watch, including “overall UK Wine Establishment of t he Year” and “European Wine Restaurant of t he Year”.

Triple Cream Brie

DJ Opulent, rich yet earthy brie demands an equally weighty wine with ample acidity to tame the decadent cream content. Acid driven whites with a rich core of fruit and minerality like Chablis or Meursault (ideally with a touch of age); dry chenin blanc from Vouvray or Savennieres; well oaked new world chardonnay too, as long as the wood is well integrated in the wine Reds can shine with brie but ensure they are fruity and fleshy with decent acidity like Priorato, southern Rhone or new world blends.

FS My best choice would be a relatively young Macon Village Chardonnay With a cheese this creamy you need to match weight for weight These wines also have well balanced acidity while some other choices that might work are just too acidic which results in an unpleasant sourness.

TT Brie is a tough cheese to pair with wine because it's so creamy but my pick would be a well aged vintage Champagne If I had to pick only one producer, my personal favourite would be Bollinger R D 1988

*Visit DRINK at eatmagazine.ca f or t he ext ended version, including t he exper ts’ recommendations for our bonus questions what would you pair wit h Local Chevre, PLUS how would you pair a mixed charcuterie platter

Salty, Aged Hard Cheese

DJ Salt is a catalyst for sublime wine and cheese pairing It can uncover background fruit in savour y, aged wines, like Bordeaux, Barolo, or Tuscan heavy hitters, and mature Amarone. Young, powerful reds (BC meritage, Cali cab, northern Rhone) work well too, where fat and protein wrestle young tannins into submission, and salt complements exuberant fruit Mature wooded white Rioja and briney sherries are also sophisticated pairings.

FS Here, I absolutely love a younger Cabernet/Sangiovese blend from Tuscany The bright fruit of the Cabernet and the approachable acidity and tannins of the Sangiovese pair beautifully with the briny taste and texture of this cheese.

TT I would pick full bodied, full flavoured reds from Piedmont or Veneto

Strong Blue Cheese

DJ Blue welcomes sweet reds and whites in a special way Pungent, creamy and salty flavours require intensity and persistence in the wine, so choose ruby or tawny port, or the classic dessert whites like Sauternes, Tokaji or Australian stickies. Rich Alsatian whites and Auslese riesling can be a treat with strong blues, and funky, minerally whites like dry Furmint from Hungary, or savoury Italian Greco and Vermentino are off beat, adventurous choices.

FS An Amarone definitely But one which falls into the categor y of Vino di Meditazione which means it is a wine to sip by itself or with cheese as its weight and lushness would be overwhelming with anything else High in alcohol and almost port like in its intensity it is a perfect wine for this time of year.

TT I recommend a botrytised whites from Bordeaux such as a Sauternes to match the power of a nice, ripe blue cheese

liquid assets

—by Larry Ar nold

Kettle Valley Winer y is celebrating twenty years of making wine at their family farm winer y on the Naramata Bench. EAT picks Kettle as our Winer y of the Month and the Kettle Valley Starboard NV as our Wine of the Month. (see the review under Desser t Wine)

RED WINE

Bleasdale The Library Reserve 2005 Australia $22.00 24.00

It is not often you come across a new release from Australia with some age on it. Generally speaking they are released early and consumed just as quickly Bleasdale Vineyards is Australia’s second oldest family owned winery established in 1850 Full bodied and concentrated, this Cabernet Malbec Merlot Petit Verdot blend virtually oozes with hedonistic layers of blackberries, violets, spice and eucalyptus flavours. Very ripe with soft tannins and subtle oak nuances Delicious!

Fort Berens Meritage 2009 BC $30.00 35.00

Fort Berens is Lillooet’s first winery! Strategically located on the highway to Cache Creek, Kamloops and all points north, this little winery is worth a stop and a sip The wines are good The Meritage is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc Medium bodied with rich bramble, vanilla and cassis flavours, a patina of fine grained tannins and a long elegant finish. Worth the stop.

Chateau Feret Lambert Bordeaux Superieur 2009 France $22.00 25.00

I think it would be fair to say that this dense, brooding claret is not typical of the genre For one, it is big and concentrated, more a heavy weight then a welter weight and at 14% alcohol, packs a punch. Predominately Merlot (90%) with a dollop of Cabernet Sauvignon, this Bordelais behemoth is redolent with ripe raspberry, cedar and earth flavours, with a firm tannic finish A keeper that is delicious now but will reward a few years of patience and at this price definitely worth picking up a case or two.

Delas St. Espirt Cotes Du Rhone 2009 France $18.00 20.00

Soft and juicy with delicious raspberr y, cherr y and earth flavours, medium to full bodied with a blush of fine grained tannins and a long tasty finish

Joie PTG 2009 BC $26.00 30.00

Located on the Naramata Bench, just outside of Penticton, Joie Farm gets better with every vintage Blessed with great fruit and solid winemaking skills, Joie specializes in cranking out spins on European classics. Passetoutgrain (PTG) is a blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir made in Burgundy Joie’s PTG is a blend of 63% Pinot Noir and 37% Gamay from the Naramata Bench It is very pale in colour but don’t let this fool you, PTG is loaded with strawberry and spice aromas The palate has some weight and a silky texture with ripe red berry, spice and warm earth flavours. Nicely balanced with good fruit, acidity and a blush of nicely integrated tannins. Another good wine from Joie

WHITE WINE

Cedar Creek Riesling 2010 BC $19.00 21.00

Bright and lively, with heady floral and apricot aromas and concentrated peach and apple flavours Off dry and beautifully balanced with a nip of tangy acidity This is new winemaker Darryl Coopers first vintage with Cedar Creek and from what I have tasted so far we have much to look forward to.

Stoneboat Vineyards Pinot Gris 2010 BC $20.00 23.00

If you crave crisp bright acidity, this wine is made for you! Clean and fresh, with subtle citrus, peach and mineral flavours and a bite of mouth watering acidity that races across your palate like a lightening bolt but leaves you craving another sip Fantastic with shellfish or sole

Pentage Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2008 BC $22 00 24 00

Pentage Winery is a lovely little boutique winery over looking Skaha Lake near Penticton The view is incredible; the driveway terrifying! Pale gold with a lovely bouquet of gooseberries, pink grapefruit and passion fruit that develop on the palate and linger through the finish

Foxtrot Vineyards Chardonnay 2010 BC $50.00 55 00

Located on the Naramata Bench Foxtrot Vineyards opened its doors in 2003, the focus being Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Concentrated and intense with powerful citrus, vanilla and hazelnut aromas! Round and creamy with tropical fruit flavours and nicely integrated oak. This wine could easily be mistaken for top flight Burgundy Not cheap but damn good!

Araldica Piemonte Cortese 2010 Italy $16.00 18.00

In a world awash in a sea of banal overworked Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio, this fresh, subtle Cortese from Piedmont comes as a refreshing surprise Restrained, elegant and alive with spring flowers and citrus aromas, gentle acidity and a clean minerally palate! If it had Gavi on the label it would sell for almost twice the price

DESSERT WINE

Kettle Valley Starboard NV BC $20.00 23.00

Made from Malbec and Petit Verdot, fortified and aged in French oak for 18 months this superb ruby port style is black as pitch with layers of sweet blackberry, raspberry and plum flavours. Soft and supple with a lovely silky texture and enough grip to hold it all together A lovely way to finish an evening Graham’s Six Grapes Reserve Port Portugal $28.00 30.00 The Grahams style puts the emphasis on the big sweet flavours of fully ripe fruit. I am happy to report “Six Grapes” stays the course This super ruby is as sweet and mellow as those in the know expect from this fine Port shipper The palate is soft with rich berry flavours, plenty of heft and just enough grip to remind you of its pedigree

Join the new Bench Club at Hester Creek and find your own Character among the wine. For more information on the club, email Sarah: sarah@hestercreek.com or visit www.hestercreek.com

www.eatmagazine.ca

A T r u e E m p o r i u m o f International Flavours

Tucked into a storefront on the west side of Douglas St , between Discover y and Pembroke, sits a true emporium of international flavours. The Mexican House of Spices opened earlier this year and meets a demand that was already present, explains owner Maritza Sanchez Before the store opened, members of Victoria’s Latin American, Jamaican and African communities would travel to Vancouver to shop for traditional ingredients. Now they can find everything they’re looking for downtown.

This little shop is much more than its name implies, and spices are only one of the many products available Aisles are packed tightly with the tastes of many nations, from the exhaustive selection of hot sauces (23 kinds!), canned fruits and authentic moles to salsas, baking supplies for regional specialties and dried goods These include the spices that line the walls where you’ll find eight types of dried chilies and kits for making African pepper soup either whole spice or ground Bulk supplies are available as well, such as dried organic blue corn from Peru, beans and several varieties of flour A small selection of fresh produce, including plantain and tomatillos, is also on display, though these items often sell out quickly, Maritza tells me, citing the African yams she has trouble keeping in stock

The refrigerated section displays several types of Mexican queso (cheese), Salvadorian crema, three kinds of chorizo, and soft drinks from several Latin American countries that are not available elsewhere in town. Frozen pulpas (concentrate from tropical fruits such as curuba, passion fruit and tamarillo) are on offer in the freezer, as are frozen Columbian arepas and dough for empanadas Fresh corn tortillas are delivered every Monday, and banana and corn leaves are stocked for those making tamales Maritza tells me that the Latin American snacks and sweets are big sellers as well, pointing out cassava, plantain chips and the popular Mexican Gausito treats

Maritza and her parents offer Mexican cooking classes once a month at the Nazarene Church Hall on Craigflower Road

Mexican House of Spices | 2022 Douglas St , Victoria | 250 388 6602

Visit the Mexican House of Spice Facebook page for more information Monday Saturday, 10 a m 6 p m and Sunday, noon to 6 p m

Maritza Sanchez, owner of the Mexican House of Spices (left) with her son and her mother.

The Buzz

Comox, Nanaimo, Okanagan, Tofino, Vancouver, Victoria

VICTORIA: The temperature may be cooling down, but t here’s still a lot in town to warm us up t his season Building on the success of last year ’ s winter markets, the Downtown Victoria Public Market Society will be holding twice monthly markets in Market Square This year the market days will be held on the first and third Saturdays of the month, beginning on November 5th and running until March 17th Fans of Italian inspired fare have two new restaurants in town to tr y out At the more casual end of the spectrum, Luca’s Cucina and Taphouse has taken over the former Macaroni Grill location at 3195 Douglas St, ser ving pizza, pasta and more with lots of local beers on tap and BC wines on the wine list (www lucascucina com) Of fering an aut hentic Italian menu t hat is s till family friendly, is t he recently opened Bella Montagna When Adam Walker, Restaurant Manager at The Westin Bear Mountain Golf Resor t and Spa, shared stories of his cycling races in Italy with Executive Chef Iain Rennie, both realized a shared passion for t his region’s wines and food, and t he spirit of humanity t hat embraces Italian kitchens Now, twelve mont hs later, t he team has acted upon t heir passions in t he creation of Bella Mont agna, an inspired It alian res t aurant boas ting r ic h foods tr ue to t he many regions Adam visited “The hear t of Bella will be the house made pastas, prepared fresh daily, with traditional sauces and fresh herbs grown right here in Bear Mountain’s own herb garden We will also feature an array of gluten free pastas, and we will be har vesting our organic honey for t he creation of our signature creamy gelatos made fresh at the table with liquid nitrogen” says Executive Chef Rennie Ever y night star t ing at 5 pm Bella will of fer a “Family Table” for $18/adults & $9/child Plates of heaping pasta, sal ads and sauces are all ser ved “family style” straight to your table, then finished of f with your choice of desser t

But that’s not all the news in the Italian food file! A big congratulations to Pizzeria Prima Strada, the first Vancouver Island restaurant to have their pizzas of ficially cer tified by the Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana, whic h evaluates t he aut henticity of Neapolitan pizzas around t he world Eac h Prima Strada location will receive a cer tification parchment from Italy with a unique membership number in dicating their pizza is VPN cer tified and the pizzeria ser ves authentic Neapolitan pizza In t he dr inks depar tment, James Bay residents welcomed t he ar r ival of Discover y Cof f ee ’ s t hird location on the corner of Menzies and Michigan at the beginning of October They share the space with Hudson Jones Baker y who are q uic kly acq uir ing a devot ed following wit h t heir fresh baked cinnamon buns, muf fins, cookies and other treats At the time of writing, Miyuki and Jared Nyberg, the team behind JagaSilk Teabar were hard at work on their new project a space called Spiced Water, soon to open on Government St, not far from their Nootka Cour t headquar ters It’s also the time of year to look out for local brewer ies releasing Chr is tmas brews, like Vancouver Island Brewer y ’ s Hermannator, their limited release Eisbock

Down on Whar f S t , N autical N ellies is celebrating t heir 15t h Anniversar y, and Swans’ W ild Saf fron Bistro has launched a new menu, created by Executive Chef Keith Lefevre (formerly of the Blue Crab Bar & Grill) and featuring Ocean Wise seafood choices To view the new menu (and admire some gorg eous photos by our own Rebecca Wellman) visit t he bis tro’s new websit e ( www swan shotel com/bistro)

If you ’ re looking for some guidance as we head into the enter taining season, the local cooking schools have sc heduled some helpful sessions Chef Meg an Hennis will be t eac hing a class on Gour me t Christmas Cookies in early November and one on Elegant Christmas Desser ts in December at Cook Culture (www cookculture com) Creating Occasions is of fering special workshops on Marzipan Fruits and Figures, Yule Logs, and Gingerbread Building classes for kids and adults t hroughout December (www creatingoccasions com) Register early before t hey sell out, as French Mint’ s Roman Christmas did, though there are still spaces in the Comfor ting Winter Fare and other classes. (www frenchmint ca) Visit websites for full calendars and registration info Ooh La La Cupcakes opened t heir four t h location at t he cor ner of Broughton and Gordon (oohlalacupcakes ca ) Le Pe tit Dakar has jus t opened on Doug las S t in t he 700 bloc k , f eatur ing authentic Senegalese specialties such as Domoda (Senegalese beef bourguinon, $8 75), Supu kanja a combination of marinated meat and seafood cooked in an okra sauce, $9 75) Rebecca Baugniet NANAIMO: The mid island is abundant with all sor ts of comfor t foods this winter season! At the top of my own list of standbys are the meat pies at the Crow and Gate in Cedar (www crowandgate com), the roast beef and yorkshire pudding appy at The Nest Bistro (486A Franklyn St, Nanaimo; 250 591 2721), the cinnamon buns at Bocca café (427 Fitzwilliam, Nanaimo; 250 753 1797), the Chef’s Choice and tempura from Nori Sushi (203 6750 Island Highway, Nanaimo; 250 751 3377); the Thai Noo dle Bowl at Noodles of the World (NOW) (161 Station St , Duncan; 250 597 0313) and the Pomme Frites at Bistro 161 (www bistro161 com)

Nothing comfor ts the hear t and soul quite like Chef Sarah Wallbank’s specialties and it is about to get even better with the opening of her new baker y and bistro in Lantsville (7217 Lantsville Rd [5 min Nor th of Woodgrove]; 250 740 1775) When the doors fly open mid November Riso Foods Inc. will of fer ar tisan breads and pastries, as well as a regional lunch and dinner menu featuring European in spired wood oven pizza This is the place the mid island’s devout foodies have been waiting for!

If I were told I had to choose one place to eat lunch for the rest of my life, the fresh, fast food at the new Real Food location in Nanaimo’s Old City Quar ter would definitely be in the running! Star t your visit wit h a stop at t heir tasting bar where samples of outstanding soups and ot her goodies await to tempt you Also check out their hot and cold sandwich board and deli case All items are craf ted from scratch by owners/chefs Tracy and Dallas Collis using generous helpings of local island ingredients (#3 321 Wesley St ; 250 741 0004)

For delicious Indian cuisine in N anaimo Gat eway to India is bac k in business af t er ext ensive renovations to their kitchen and restaurant (www gatewaytoindia ca) If you haven’t already been, I must recommend a visit to St. Jean’s Canner y and Smokehouse in South Nanaimo (www stjeans com) Here you will find tins of locally har vested seafood that tastes surprisingly fresh, plus some unique ac companiments such as canned chanterelle mushrooms This is the place to find unique Christmas gif ts for all the foodies on your list Nesvogs Meats and Deli in Terminal Park (1533 Estevan Rd; 250 591 2422) have just finished their expansion adding an impressive 2200 square feet to their store The old favorites are back in the expanded meat and deli cases with more specialty and ar tisan food items than ever filling t he shelves Chef Monica McGregor joins Ingrid and Arnold’s crew to bring back lunch of f er ings f eatur ing homemade soups and sandwic hes piled high wit h house made deli meats and condiments She has also added some scrumptious additions to the take home dinner menu wor th check ing out

In Parksville, the Crown Mansion is now of fering West Coast fine dining in their restaurant Butlers at the Mansion where the small elegant lunch and dinner menu is both simple and inviting (www crown mansion com) In Cowichan, it’s not jus t t he cool name t hat has desser t lovers intrigued by Twisted Sif t er Cakes and Cupcakes It seems t hat sis t er bakers Angie Munroe and Tonie Kr ueg er have per fected the coveted red velvet cupcake as well (www twistedsif terscupcakes com) Also in Cowichan, a per fect pairing has taken place with Amuse Bistro (www amusebistro com) moving to the recently opened Unswor t h V ineyard proper ty (www unswor thvineyards com ) Wit h a bounty of farm fresh foods also growing here, Chef Bradford Boisver t’s new terroir cuisine menu is not to be missed At the

Bistro at Merridale the Field to Table Dinners con tinue through to the end of the year ever y Saturday at 5:30pm Gues t speakers ( www merridale cider com) Wishing you much comfor t on your fork or spoon this winter! Karma Brophy

COMOX VALLEY: I appreciated all the hard work of farmers and pur veyors way more than I should have this fall With the Thanksgiving weekend be hind me, I have some serious training before hitting t he slopes of Mt Washington You can have a vacation before t he holiday season s t ar ts, visit www mtwashington ca for pass, event, weather and accommodation information Looking for t he best powder on the island, look nor th and you will find Mt. Cain with all its rugged and natural terrain Go by www mountcain com if your travel plans include a classic snow experience

Before your day on t he slopes fuel up at Atlas Cafe with generous breakfasts like the eggs Bene dict selections, or af t er t he hill for coc kt ails and après bit es Go by www atlascafe ca for menus, hours and treat yourself and your friends

Wit h t he holidays f as t approac hing, I have prepared a shopping plan Not only will my budget be maintained, but nobody will be forgotten My first course of action is visiting the two valley kitchen s tores for t hose useful, ye t uniq ue gif ts Who doesn’t want a peppercorn grinder or stemless wine glasses; in the hear t of Comox you will find Otters Kitchen Cove You can have a look at www otter skitchencove com for the shops product lines and lo cation Across the valley on the cute shopping strip known as 5t h s tree t in downtown Cour t enay,

Beyond the Kitchen Door sells great gif t ideas like locally made cutting boards and grand espresso machines Why wouldn’t anyone want the Porsche of cof f ee makers par ked on t he count er for a mor ning cof f ee, gif t cer tif icat es are always an appropr iat e gif t idea A t www beyondthekitchen door com you will f ind all t he infor mation you’ll need for planning a shopping trip for yourself or someone else

Gif t cer tificates really are a great present, and I recommend giving a trip to the butcher shop For over 26 years The Butc hers Bloc k has been providing the valley with great local products and butchering ser vices Visit them at www thebutchers block ca Check out Kathy Jerritt and Tria Culinar y Studios newest adventure in the space that is the butcher shop entrance Gourmet on the go meals and tasty sandwiches are available, I enjoyed the Roc kin’ Moroccan sandwic h Kat hy has had an exciting summer with the har vest dinners on the farm and you can see what else is happening with Tria at www triaculinar ystudio ca

Cour tenay VQA Wine Store enjoyed teaming up wit h John Challender while of fering t he Wine Appreciation Course Over four nights John and wine ent husias ts t as t ed BC wines ag ains t international products, while learning more about the histor y of wine Contact Cindy at www cour te na yvqa wines com for how you can enjoy wine more, or visit her at the store and enjoy more wine Avenue Bis tro has BC bubbles on ice for t he holidays, come by with your friends and family to enjoy Summerhill Cipes Brut, Blue Mountain Gold Br ut and Vancouver Island swee t hear t Ventur i

Schultze Brut

Chr is tmas par ty bookings are available at Coas t al Blac k W iner y for g roups of up to 30 people, a great way for families or businesses to enjoy t he event while sipping local wines Visit www coastalblack ca for info about the winer y and features that the proper ty boasts

Go Mango in t he Avalanc he Ho t el has t he tastiest Indian food in the Valley, the samosas was highly recommended and I have returned instinctu ally now ever since As t he sandwich board says out front, ‘ curr y up and go ’

Food & Beverage Manager Laura Kempling, (for merly from Hotel Grand Pacific), Executive Chef Chris Thrif t (formerly from Hotel Rialto) have been ver y busy since leaving Victoria to join the Executive Team at t he Wes t erly Ho t el & Convention Centre in downtown Cour t enay In ear ly Marc h Hot el General Manag er Mic helle Le Sag e, announced t he opening of t heir brand new pub Flying Canoe Wes t Coas t Pub www f l yingca noe ca Now t he team has since launched a new cat er ing com pany, Wes t erly Cat er ing Co. www westerlycatering ca and rebranded the hotel lobby lounge as well as their full ser vice restaurant Chalk Spirits, Tapas & Billiards Upcoming events at the hotel included the much anticipated New Year’s Eve Celebration featuring 4 unique par ties under one roof and the 2nd Annual Comox Val ley Whiskey Festival which will take place on Feb 3rd and 4th Visit www comoxvalleywhiskeyfest ca and make plans now for this event, as it is ver y pop ular and sells out quickly Eli Blake

TOFINO: Foraging chanterelles and blackberries, clam digging, and stocking the freezer with salmon and halibut for the winter are all hallmarks of fall in Tofino This is all in preparation for the wonder fully long and comfor ting f eas ts of N ovember and December when t he fruits of a west coast kind of har ves t are appreciat ed ag ains t a s tor my bac k drop Memories of eating oysters and mussels right of f the beach might be dim by now, but there are a few events to look for ward to in these par ts One of them is a celebration of that par ticularly t as ty bivalve, whic h is g rown in abundance in Clayoquot Sound In fact, over 50,000 gallons of oysters are grown on farms in Lemmens Inlet, and some 8,000 gallons of oysters are consumed in the area

A good number of those consumed are shucked on Clayoquot Sound Oyster Festival weekend, N ov 17 19t h t his year Events sur rounding t he festival include oyster farm tours, oyster and wine tastings, educational seminars, and special dinner events at local restaurants The main events are the Mermaid’s Ball Nov 17th and the Oyster Festival Gala N ov 18t h Bot h t ake place at Tof ino Community Hall Oys t er slur ping cont es ts, live music, cos tumes, and of course a lot of oys t er consuming t ake place bot h evenings The full schedule of Oyster Festival events was not available before press time, but please visit www oys t er gala com for more information

Also t his f all is at Blac k Roc k Resor t, a Macallan Whiskey Tasting Dinner with Chef Morne Van Antwerp This event takes place Nov 5th and tickets are $150 per person Look for news on the

Cont’d on page 40

return of Black Rock BBQ Blues event Nov 27th Visit www blackrockresor t com or call 250 726 4800 for more details.

Tofino locals are buzzing about the availability of Collins Farm meats in town Bob and Ann Collins’ farm is located of f Hwy 4 on the outskir ts of Por t Alberni Their free range, hormone free chicken and beef can be obtained in Tofino and Ucluelet from their son Donny, who lives in Tofino Call 250 726 6506 to reac h him (he operat es Ebb and Flow Gues t house ), and visit t he Collins’ Farm and Arrowvale Campground website for the location of the farm at www arrowvale ca Jingle Into Christmas is a fun event in Tofino each year, held just prior to the star t of the holiday season Local merchants and restaurants of fer specials on a Friday evening in late November (date yet to be determined) A great way to welcome the season with a glass of good cheer with friends I’ve recently been made aware of a fun new phone application that several friends are using The Wine Guru is a free download (at t he moment) Developed by sommeliers on t he lower mainland, including Eric Ferris of Restaurant 62 in Abbotsford, t he Wine Guru will pair a wine wit h whatever you ’ re eating You can give parameters, suc h as N ew Wor ld or Old Wor ld, and pr ice range Visit www the wine guru com for download information and happy pairing! Jen Dar t

VANCOUVER: Jennifer McLagan, aut hor of t he wildly popular Fat, has now followed up wit h Odd Bits: How to Cook the Rest of the Animal Think shank , cheek , brisket, ribs, chuck and kidneys Was this the real food trend of 2011?

Long known as local chefs’ favourite secret shopping spot, Galloway’s (www gallowaysfoods com) is celebrating their 75th anniversar y this year The gourmet grocer y, with locations in Burnaby and Rich mond, specializes in specialty items like exotic flours (think kamut, spelt, red wheat and quinoa, for a star t) and ethnic foods, as well as spices, herbs, baking and health products (lots of stuf f for alternative diets here)

Vij’s (www.vijs.ca) has gone beyond the street and into the stadium BC Place Stadium, to be exact In conjunction with the stadium’s grand re opening, Vij’s will now be of fering their popular curries to game spectators Hockey and dahl, anyone?

Kitsilano has a few new faces Steeve Raye Pastr y on West 4th Avenue has morphed into Café Regalade (www caferegalade com), a casual French bistro ser ving breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner Tr y the Lyonnaise breakfast, ser ved hot in the skillet, for a savour y surprise Bonus: Steeve’s pastries are still on the menu

Newcomer Oakwood Canadian Bistro (www theoakwood ca), also on West 4t h, is jonesing on local sustainable fare Ever ything is made in house, from the bread and pasta to the cured meats and sauces Open for dinner and weekend brunch

And t he all t hings por k trend continues onto Cambie S tree t wit h t he opening of Pronto (www prontocaf fe ca), a small, Italian café resto that specializes in porchetta and housemade pastas, as well as a small, but excellent wine and microbrew list

The East Side is also continuing with its restaurant renaissance Fray (www fray me) on Fraser Street is hawking fresh, local fare done up as “creative comfor t food ” The pulled pork sandwich on a purple yam bun was an intriguing twist, as were the por tobello fries This casual eater y also boasts an excel lent selection of microbrews

On Main Street, The Rumpus Room (2689 Main St; 604 839 5780; no website) is of fering up 70s inspired classics like deep fried pickles, free range burgers, boozy floats, and housemade ketchup, mayo and sauces

And just of f Gastown, Save On Meats (www saveonmeats ca) has opened its all day diner, butcher and sandwich counter operation on West Hastings Street to loud and appreciative grunts, t hanks to dishes like the breakfast poutine and classics like the Damn Fine Ruben Okanagan Crush Pad (www okanagancrushpad com) has of ficially launched t heir custom crush operations, and have branched out to in house wine making with three wines to date: Haywire, Bar tier Scholefield, and Bar tier Bros Jack Evrensal’s Top Table Group of Restaurants (www toptable ca) has launc hed t heir own Director’s Blend house wines in par tnership wit h Laughing S toc k V ineyards (www laughingstock ca) The name refers to the restaurant group ’ s four wine directors Samantha Rahn of Araxi, Andrea Vescovi of Blue Water Café, Cin Cin’ s Sarah McCauley and West’ s Owen Knowl ton whose brainchild this label is The 2010 white is a bright and juicy blend of 50% pinot gris, 20% viognier, 15% pinot blanc and 15% sauvignon blanc The 2009 red is a fruit for ward and complex blend of 40% cabernet sauvignon, 35% merlot, 15% syrah and 10% cabernet franc Look for velvety tannins in the latter, with a slightly spicy finish Anya Levykh

OKANAGAN: Kelowna Metro Liquor S tore known for t heir excellent selection of local wines in cluding Okanagan “cult” wines has moved to their new 3500 sq f t building beside the newly opened Old Train Station Pub, walking distance from their old location with the added bonus of free parking Wat er front Res t aurant and W ine Bar will be closed s t ar ting in December for renovations Okanagan Spirits has opened their first retail location in the hear t of downtown Kelowna on Bernard Street The Best Western Hotel has opened Ora Kitchen & Bar with Executive Chef Kevin Boreham

formerly wit h Earls The charming Organic Cupboard has opened in Tutt Square wit h a focus on ever ything organic. In the Lower Mission, Fresh Green Grocer, a full ser vice grocer y store is now open at 4624 Lakeshore Road Bean Scene Cof fee Works has a cool new location in an air y industrial space at 1615 Dickson Avenue Latin Fiesta, which opened in April has already garnered a loyal fol lowing and is wor th the drive to Rutland (400B Hwy 33) for authentic Mexican and Salvadorian food Valrosa Foods, Kelowna’s “Little Italy” and the place to go for anything and ever ything Italian includ ing gourmet grocer y store, deli, cof fee/sandwich bar, has a brand new exterior for their retail location 1467 Sutherland Avenue Dawett Indian Restaurant has been transformed into a modern and sleek restaurant per fect for their 1435 Ellis Street downtown location Coast Capri’s Vintage’s Room, has re opened af ter renovations just in time to celebrate the holidays with Chateaubriand for Two Enjoy din ner and theatre at the newly renovated Kelowna’s Actors Studio which now of fers table dinner ser v ice with Neil Schroeter of Okanagan Street Food as the Executive Chef Tim and Lucia Mar tin are the new owners of DJ’s Kelowna Cantina on Water Street West Kelowna has a delicious new Lebanese Bistro Gaby’s Grill, 875 Anders Road, in the space previously occupied by Georgio’s In Summerland, Good Omens is now licensed and will be ser ving local Summerland wines as well as a large selection of micro brews In Penticton, Bradley Greggor and Executive Chef Shane Christof f are the new owners of Amante Bistro, now open for both lunch and dinner Saint German Café Galler y has opened downtown on Main Street and is a delightful café within a commercial ar t galler y ser ving wonder ful French baguette sandwiches, salads/soups and ar t The hip Opus Café in the Canner y Lof t Building is now licensed and neighbor Canner y Brewing is on tap In Naramata, the Poplar Grove Winer y will be open year round and the Hillside Winer y’s Bistro will remain open until December 18th And that’s the Okanagan buzz Claire Sear

Chef Prof ile: Darin Patterson of Bogner’s

Darin Patterson is a kitchen hero with a passion for culinar y tradition. Owner/chef at Bogner’s in Penticton, the burly, bearded father of two young children also recently began offering a May October lunch menu of soups, salads and creative grill dishes at Red Rooster Winery, a short walk from his two acre organic produce farm on the Naramata Bench In addition to running both operations and growing enough potatoes, tomatoes, lettuce, arugula and various herbs for his kitchens, Patterson also operates a popular catering service. He is a busy man

“I’ve always loved getting my hands in the dirt I was in horticultural club when I was seven and grew up growing food I’ve worked since I was 14, and after graduating from Northern Alberta Institute of Technology helped open four Edmonton restau rants including the famous Black Dog Freehouse.”

Next, Patterson travelled around the Middle East and worked four years at a 24 hour kitchen service for the Saudi royal family where he “would get 25 fresh lambs a day and other days learn to deal with having nothing and making something grand from it ”

During his travels, the chef met his wife and moved to Sweden where he worked with Christer Svantesson, that countr y’s first chef to be awarded a Michelin star. Patterson ran the largest catering company in Stockholm, catered Nobel Peace Prize dinners in 2004 and 2005 and a European Congress formal dinner for 3,200 people He also cooked for pop stars like Sting, Wyclef Jean and the Pet Shop Boys “I love the confit tradition, cooked in the fat of its own ancestors I always remember a meal I shared with Christer of fried liver, thick cut bacon, capers, brown butter and mashed potatoes ”

Patterson moved back to Canada and bought Bogner’s in 2006 The 1915 Tudor style heritage house had been a Penticton family restaurant since 1977. Patterson’s extensive renovations included garden beds planted with potatoes and salad ingredients in every available space, and while dining there I watched as the chef used some of his herbs to garnish a plate “They talk about the 100 mile diet, but we get our organic produce a little closer to home ”

By Joseph Blake

Honey (bee), Won’t You Please Come Home!

They pollinate a third of all the food you eat. And they’re disappearing. Here’s how you can help.

Lemon Honey Panna Cotta with

Honey Ginger Florentines

An agricultural crisis has been looming for the past five years The honeybees are disappearing. You may be wondering what this has to do with agriculture and why you should care. Honeybees don’t just make honey they pollinate one third of all the food you eat. And without pollination, plants can’t produce all the nourishing fruits, vegetables and nuts that keep us healthy No one is certain what’s causing the bees’ demise, but leading experts and preliminary evidence suggests human abuse of the environment is the chief factor Let’s take a closer look and find out what needs to be done to reverse the disturbing scenario

The term “Colony Collapse Disorder (CCD)” was first applied in 2006 That was the year of a drastic rise in the number of honeybee colonies that disappeared in North America Authorities scrambled to find a single cause for CCD but could not pinpoint an exclusive factor and still can’t. Bob Liptrot, co owner of Tugwell Creek Honey Farm and Meadery in Sooke, isn’t surprised According to Liptrot, who holds a master’s degree in apiculture from Simon Fraser University, the cause was, and remains, multi factorial “It isn’t just one thing,” he states, “there are a number of factors, both biotic and environmental, that are creating the perfect storm pesticides, global warming, industrial farming practices, genetically modified crops all these things weaken the bee’s immune system, leaving them more susceptible to disease.” Initial analysis of bees from collapsed colonies indicates their bodies contain more pesticides than non CCD bees.

Until the spring of this year, Liptrot and his beekeeping brethren on Vancouver Island had a valuable weapon in their fight to keep their colonies healthy A quarantine issued by the Ministry of Agriculture kept bees from being imported onto the island, effectively creating an isolated zone that allowed island beekeepers to maintain a relatively disease free stock In a questionable move that left many beekeepers angry, the Ministry lifted the quarantine on May 1st “They simply caved in to some heavy lobbying by a few large commercial operations, and by one in particular that was teetering on financial ruin and wanted to import bees from the mainland to keep the operation viable,” explains Liptrot. “That business threatened to sue and the quarantine was lifted ”

So what can you do to help the honeybee and ensure the sustainability of our food supply?

Plenty visit www.eatmagazine.ca for things you can do right now to make a substantial impact. Search: Honeybee

RECIPES

by Nathan Fong

Honey is a natural organic sweetener and has been used since the dawn of humankind. No additives and healthy to the body’s system, it also has great nutritional properties Delicious simply spread on hot buttered toast or to sweeten tea, honey has been used in cooking for centuries. Here are six of my favourite recipes using honey, including sublimely crisp honey glazed duck legs, an intense, honey infused tomato jam, spice scented poached pears and a delicate panna cotta Each recipe’s sweetness comes from the honey, but the subtle flavours and aromas will differ depending on the style of honey used

The frustration with the provincial government continues Liptrot is currently work ing with UBC, the University of Manitoba and the Canadian Food Inspection Agency on a genetics program with the aim of breeding heartier stock that are less susceptible to disease Donations from the participants and from private donors are providing funding for this project and others like it the provincial government has thus far refused to offer financial support for bee research. “It’s frustrating,” sighs Liptrot, “The Ontario government is providing funding for bee research; they recognize how crucial the work is, but so far our provincial government has refused to support us financially ”

Lemon Honey Panna Cotta

Panna cotta is one of my favourite Italian desserts It’s a balancing act to have just the right amount of gelatin to “hold” the sweetened milk, without it becoming too heavy a texture. Use a good honey from a local small producer with a stronger flavour such as lavender, buckwheat or wild flowers Panna cotta is such a subtle dessert that it will take on either delicate or strong honey flavours Makes 6 3/4 cup ramekins

1 1/4 cups homogenized milk

2 1/2 tsp gelatin

Peel from 1 lemon, about 1 by 6 inches

3 cups whipping cream

1/2 cup honey

1/8 tsp salt

Pour the milk into a bowl and sprinkle the gelatin over it Set aside to soften, about 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat the peel, cream, honey and salt until steaming hot but not boiling, stirring until honey is dis solved. Remove from heat and stir in milk mixture, stirring until gelatin has dissolved Place bowl into an ice water bath and stir until temperature reaches 50°F on an instant read thermometer Remove lemon peel

Divide mixture evenly among serving glasses or ramekins. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until set, 4 to 5 hours, or overnight Drizzle with extra honey as a garnish or serve with Honey Ginger Florentines (see following recipe)

Honey Ginger Florentines

Makes about 1 1 1/2 dozen wafers

4 Tbsp unsalted butter

3 Tbsp honey

1/4 cup sugar

1/2 tsp ground ginger

1/2 cup all purpose flour (sifted before measuring)

1/4 tsp salt

Preheat oven to 400°F and set oven rack to middle. Butter or line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

In a small saucepan, heat the butter, honey, sugar and ginger over low heat, until the butter has melted Remove from heat and stir in the flour and salt

Drop a heaping Tbsp of batter on the prepared baking sheet, allowing room for spreading (maximum 6 per baking sheet). Place one baking sheet at a time into the oven and bake until golden, about 3 to 5 minutes While they are baking, lightly butter the back of a rolling pin

Remove the sheet from the oven and replace it with a new sheet of unbaked cook ies. Allow the cookies to cool for a few seconds to set, then lift one with a metal spatula onto the rolling pin allowing it to curl over the back Or the cookies can be formed into small cigars over the greased handle of a wooden spoon Place the warm cookie over the handle and quickly wrap it around with your hands If the cookies harden before you get to them, return to the baking sheet and place the baking sheet back into the oven for a few seconds to soften.

If the first set of cookies do not spread or curl properly, add a small amount of butter or honey to the batter before continuing Cool completely before storing in an air tight container These will keep up to a week. The cigars can be filled with sweetened whipped cream using a pastr y bag fitted with a medium star tip These should be served immediately

Honey Poached Pears with Lemon Balm and Raisins

This Chinese inspired dessert is simple to make. The combination of honey and water is a traditional preparation and is used both to cook and as a dessert syrup. In this recipe, the honey and water are gently infused with aromatics of ginger, tangerine peel, star anise and lemon balm Use large piece of zest from a fresh lemon (1 inch by 6 inches) if fresh lemon balm leaves cannot be found Serves 4

13 cups water

1/2 lemon

4 6 oz Bosc pears (or similar size)

1/3 cup honey

1 thin coin slice of ginger

2 pieces dried tangerine peel (1 by 2 inches), soaked in hot water for 20 minutes or until softened (available at Chinese supermarkets)

1/2 cup raisins

1 star anise (optional)

About 18 sprigs (7 inches long) lemon balm, 1 to 2 bunches 4 sprigs mint

Place 6 cups of the water in a bowl and squeeze the juice from the lemon into the bowl and add the lemon as well Core the pears from the bottom and peel, leaving the stem intact Place into lemon water to prevent discolouring

Place the remaining water and honey into a large pot and stir to dissolve the honey

Add the tangerine peel, raisins and lemon balm as well as the pears. Cover the pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low and simmer, leaving the lid cracked, for 1 hour Test the pear with a knife It should be soft and poached with a light beige colour Turn off heat and remove peel, lemon balm and star anise Transfer each pear, standing upright, onto a serving soup plate Divide the sweet soup and raisins among the serving dishes. Garnish with mint and serve with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream

For Nathan’s recipes for Honey-Roasted Duck Legs with Honey Plum

Tomato Compote and Honey Orange Ice Cream go to www eatmagazine ca and search: Honey Roasted Duck Legs and Honey Orange Ice Cream

DID YOU KNOW?

Honey contains chrysin, a flavonoid that has been proven to KO cancer cells! Honey is also antibacterial—up until World War II it was commonly used to treat skin wounds.

Cheap honey sold in chain super stores is often not real honey but an analogue; a mixture of synthetic and natural sugars blended to taste, smell and feel like honey.

Around here, most holiday magic happens in the kitchen.

This season, let us take care of dinner. AURA waterfront restaurant + patio – Victoria’s premier dining destination.

Preser ving The Har vest—Okanagaan Style

Yes canning is very much back in vogue and the “it” hostess gift of the moment is a jar of homemade preserves preferably whole fruit or vegetables artistically displayed in beautiful mason jars or exotic chutneys and sauces with handwrit ten labels Luckily for those who didn’t manage to add canning to their repertoire or who simply demand the best of the best, small quantities of hand made preserves made at the peak of the Okanagan’s spring, summer and fall season can be purchased directly from some of the Okanagan’s finest chefs exclusively at their restaurants

Executive Chef Matthew Batey’s handmade preserves showcase in a jar why Mission Hill Winery is one of the Okanagan’s best restaurants. Small quantities of the hand made preserves are released for sale at the winery including Oculus Cherries, Rainier Cherries, Vanilla Pears, Sweet Cherries, Sweet & Sour Estate Rhubarb, Green Tomato Chutney, Speared Asparagus and Cascade Tomatoes The Oculus Cherries at $14 95 a jar are a steal when compared to a bottle of Oculus wine which retails at over $70 00 per bottle. Sinfully decadent over chocolate ice cream or on top of homemade cheesecake any dessert becomes exceptional with their presence The Vanilla Pears are made exclusively from estate pears grown alongside the Riesling grapes on Mission Hill’s Martin Estate Vineyard For a brilliant terroir pairing, enjoy the vanilla pears with prosciutto and a glass of the Mission Hill Family Estate Martin’s Lane Riesling. Beautifully displayed in glass mason jars, Mission Hill preserves are works of art that when opened release the sunshine of summer on a bleak winter’s day

Executive Chef Rod Butter’s RJB preserves, available exclusively at Kelowna’s RauDZ restaurant, made their debut in 2009 and immediately developed a cult following with RauDZ devoted clientele. Made exclusively with the best of the Okanagan, RJB preserves are one hundred percent local with no preservatives The Hamburger relish is wrongly named as it takes cheese or any sandwich to new heights The “Simply the Best Pickles” live up to their name and the Blackberry ketchup has a loyal following The “drunken cherries” made with Sandhill Merlot are a must simply pair with whipped cream or Devonshire double cream and shaved chocolate for an easy dessert or spoon straight from the jar Pickled carrots (perfect with a Caesar cocktail), Roasted Tomato Sauce and Balsamic Bings are also amongst the offerings Despite demand the RJB preserves are for now only available from RauDZ.

In the culinary world, much of the creative cooking talent currently in the Okanagan

has at one time worked or been under the mentorship and guidance of Executive Chef Bernard Casavant who has quietly been selling his preserves and heavenly marinades made with no preservatives at the Wild Apple Restaurant at Manteo Resort. When chef’s stop by to purchase the “Star Anise Marinade” for cooking at home, you know it’s worthy in any home kitchen Look for the Roasted Onion Dijon Vinaigrette, Orange Ginger Stir Fry and the simple but delicious Apple Butter

To the gratitude of locals and epicureans in the know, most dining guests at Burrowing Owl’s Sonora Room restaurant simply miss the bookcase tucked away in the corner filled with handmade pantry treasures Executive Chef Chris Van Hooydonk and Executive Sous Chef Jonathan Thauberger, have a friendly rivalry keeping the bookcase stocked with their hand made preserves. The famed organic hot sauce and Sonora Room Sambal sauce has fans buying it by the case and don’t miss the winning Cherry BBQ sauce as well as homemade mustard, jams and chutneys

Penticton’s The Bench Market has started selling their own handmade preserves from Executive Chef Stewart Glynes including Quince jelly, beautiful black plum sauce made with locally grown black amber plums and gorgeously preserved Butter Bottom pears.

Toronto’s Executive Chef Jamie Kennedy, a pioneer in the canning resurgence and one of the first to use jars of beautiful hand made preserves as colorful works of art that were brilliantly displayed along the walls of his former downtown Toronto landmark the Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar. The art of canning was clearly passed to his protégés, Dana Ewart and Cameron Smith, the owners of Penticton’s Joy Road Catering whose handmade preser ves are exceptional and worth seeking out at the Penticton and Naramata Farmer’s Market or contact directly at Joy Road Catering Dana explains that much of the fruit used in their jams is allowed to tree ripen to perfection and then hand picked by the Joy Road Catering team and quickly preser ved providing nature’s abundant sweetness Beautiful Heirloom tomatoes are perfect for homemade pasta sauce and their pickles are outstanding with the added bonus for athletes that a pickle plus a good dose of pickle juice a day keeps the muscle cramps away

A well stocked pantry of the best preserves jams, jellies, drunken fruit, pickled veg etables, chutneys and sauces is a good investment and a source of comfort in today’s volatile stock market A rich man’s staple and a poor man’s treat, hand made preserves are an epicurean’s summer joy for the cold winter

Canning brings the epicurean’s summer joy to the cold winter.

A selection of preser ves from the Okanagan: (l) RauDZ Regional Table (r) Joy Road Catering Cuisine du Terroir

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