EAT Magazine 27-04 July|August 2023

THE HEAT IS ON, the beaches are busy, the campgrounds are booked. Summer in BC—always full of possibilities.

One possibility, happy hours. New contributor Michael Farley looks at some here in town for after work or after a day of exploring.

A second possibility, food trucks. Rebecca Baugniet has a primer on a few of the many available when you need nourishment during work or play.

The third possibility, tripping to Seattle. Gillie Easdon takes the plunge to check out places for when you take the hop to that fun city (it is baseball season, after all).

The fourth? Some summer recipes from Rebecca Wellman and Isabelle Bulota tempt your taste buds and, as always, suggestions for new (or new to you) restaurants to try out.

This summer, you’ll find me outside on the patio, slow-grilling dinner and enjoying a tall, frosty glass of something from one of our outstanding BC breweries, vineyards, cideries, or distilleries. Please support our advertisers, as they make the possibilities possible.

Here’s wishing everyone a fabulous summer.

CITY EATS

“While you are celebrating our shared history on Canada Day and all this country and province have to offer this summer, please remember Canada’s Indigenous populations, who have lived on this land for thousands of years before 1867 and the creation of this country.”

It seems fitting to welcome summer and all the celebrations it brings, with these words from our much-missed founder and editor, the late Gary Hynes.

Looking for a quality, dairy-free soft-serve option? A Softy is a dairy-free soft serve that gives back with one per cent of sales being donated to 1% for the Planet. They’re made fresh with local flavours, served in compostable packaging, and sold from all-electric carts. You can find Softys carts at Uptown, in Mill Bay (2720 Mill Bay Rd) and at the Malahat Skywalk this summer. heysoftys.com

CYNTHIA ANNETT-HYNES EDITOR

REBECCA BAUGNIET

“One of the very nicest things about life is the way we must regularly stop whatever it is we are doing and devote our attention to eating.”

—Luciano Pavarotti

Serves 2

Salmon Pinwheel

with Corn and Chimichurri Sauce

INGREDIENTS:

375g Wild BC Salmon, pin bones out, skin off

1 Tbsp olive oil

1 cup finely chopped leeks

1 ear of corn, kernels cut from the cob ¼ cup panko

¼ cup chimichurri, plus more to garnish

1 tsp + kosher salt

METHOD: For stuffing, gently heat oil in medium skillet. Sautee leeks with 1 tsp of kosher salt until tender, add corn kernels and cook a minute longer. Remove from heat and cool. Once cool, rough chop on a cutting board. Place in bowl. Mix with ¼ cup chimichurri and ¼ cup panko. Set aside. Butterfly the salmon.* Cover salmon with thin layer of filling. Roll into a pinwheel, short end to short end. Tie in two places with butchers twine and cut through centre, creating two pinwheels. Cook on grill, or in oven at 425°F 12 min. Serve with more chimichurri!

CHIMICHURRI :

packed ½ cup parsley

packed ½ cup dill

2 Tbsp capers

½ tsp chili flakes

Two new releases from Touchwood Editions will help foragers make the most of nature’s bounty in our region. The Coastal Forager’s Cookbook: Feasting Wild in the Pacific Northwest and The Coastal Forager’s Pocket Guide are both authored by Chef Robin Kort, a longtime West Coast forager and chef behind the Swallow Tail Supper Club. touchwoodeditions.com

Just in time for G&T season, Victoria Distillers have launched a new gin: Empress 1908 Elderflower Rose Gin. Inspired by our beautiful location, this new gin pays homage to “The City of Gardens.” The fresh, floral botanicals create a delicate spirit with a distinctive all-natural rose hue. victoriadistillers.com

Plans have been in the making for several years, but it looks like Toptable’s new Victoria fine dining restaurant, Marilena Café and Raw Bar, is set to open at 1525 Douglas St early this summer. Executive chef Kristian Eligh has previously worked as the culinary director for the Hawksworth restaurant group in Vancouver. This will be a sustainable seafood focused restaurant. toptable.ca

The highly popular North Saanich Flavour Trail, a celebratory rural ramble and feast for the senses, is back again this year. Visit their website for maps and information on the trails. flavourtrails com

The Saanich Strawberry Festival will take place from 11am–3pm on July 8 at Beaver Lake Park. From its start as a celebration of Saanich’s agricultural roots, the Strawberry Festival has blossomed into a grand event for all ages. Strawberries and ice cream served from 1–3pm. saanich ca

Join the Oak Bay Beach Hotel for their seventh annual Winemaker’s Dinner Series. Featuring a collection of international vineyards, wineries, and estates, each dinner will showcase the best of each winery paired with a seasonally inspired menu created by Executive Chef Kreg Graham. 7pm. Tickets for each dinner are $219 per person, plus tax. Bodega Garzón on July 19, Bodega Catena Zapata on Aug 16, and Marchesi Antinori on Aug 30. oakbaybeachhotel com

FOUNDER

Gary Hynes

PUBLISHER

Pacific Island Gourmet

EDITOR

Cynthia Annett-Hynes

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR / COPY EDITOR

Carolyn Bateman

SENIOR WINE WRITER

Larry Arnold

ART DIRECTOR

Cynthia Annett-Hynes

PRODUCTION AND DESIGN

Rhonda Ganz

REGIONAL REPORTERS

Victoria, Rebecca Baugniet

CONTRIBUTORS

Isabelle Bulota

Cinda Chavich

Jacqueline Downey

Gillie Easdon

Michael Farley

Mara Jernigan

Andrea Mackenzie

Elizabeth Monk

Elizabeth Nyland

Adrian Paradis

Adrien Sala

Shelora Sheldan

Johann Vincent

Rebecca Wellman

REGIONAL/NATIONAL ACCOUNT MANAGER

Susan Worrall

ADVERTISING ACCOUNT MANAGER

Ron Metella

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PHONE 250-384-9042 | 778-350-6962

juice of ½ a lemon

1 Tbsp honey

¾ cup neutral oil (i.e. canola, grapeseed)

METHOD: Put all ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth. (This recipe makes extra. Keeps in fridge for up to 2 weeks.)

*Watch the instruction video on our YouTube channel on how to butterfly the salmon fillet.

Up island, the Nanaimo VegFest will be held on July 29 at Maffeo Sutton Park. This free festival is an opportunity to experience topnotch vegan food, connect with the community and learn about the benefits of veganism for the animals, as well as plant-based diets for health and the environment. positivelyvegan ca

Coming up in September (but also to help you plan ahead, as tickets to these events often sell out quickly): Great Canadian Beer Festival (Sept 8–9), Esquimalt Rib Fest (Sept 8–9), Brewery and the Beast (Sept 24), Victoria Wine Festival (Sept 24–30).

EMAIL editor@eatmagazine.ca sales@eatmagazine.ca

ONLINE EatMagazine.ca issuu.com/eatmag

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No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the prior written permission of Pacific Island Gourmet / EAT Magazine.

EST. 1999

Styling + Photography: Isabelle Bulota

Recipe on page 23

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THE TINY BITES OF SPAIN

Tapas is a delicioso way to get your graze on.

IN THE HEAT OF summer, the idea of a three-course meal is too hot to handle. A little something-something to please the peckish is often all that’s needed to tide one over until later. For this, grazing is key.

Spain has the ultimate solution: tapas. Served throughout the country with distinct culinary variations on the theme, these little offerings have been worked out to a fine art. They’re often served free with the purchase of a beverage, and are meant to be enjoyed as part of a short socializing stop before moving on to the next tapas bar.

A few years ago, I spent an indulgent few weeks grazing through San Sebastian, Barcelona, and the Rioja, consuming tapas and glasses of refreshing effervescent txakoli, sidra, and sherry. The trip was eye-opening, immediately influencing the way I cook and serve appetizers at home when entertaining. Tapas can be as simple as manchego cheese with membrillo (sweet quince paste), seared Padrón peppers and the classic tortilla Española, or more elaborate dishes such as braised veal cheeks, seared octopus, and other seafood dishes.

It’s easy to conjure up the flavours of Spain at home with fragrant olive oil, garlic, and smoked paprika. Check out your local cheesemonger and deli for authentic Spanish ingredients. Teach yourself some basics, such as making a romesco— the rich, nutty, and piquant tomato-based sauce so wonderful with fish and damn near everything else. And for books, I recommend the hefty tome, The New Spanish Table by Anya von Bremzen. She delightfully presents 300 glorious recipes—including five styles of paella—gleaned from taberna owners, Michelinstarred chefs, farmers and fishermen, winemakers, and nuns, with an overview of each Spanish region and its specialties

For dining out Spanish-tapas-style, Victoria has amazing offerings. At Perro Negro, chef and owner Dave Craggs was hooked on the flavours and the fun social aspect of tapas after his first trip to Barcelona. Subsequently, he has enjoyed many trips exploring and tasting through Madrid, San Sebastian, Jerez, Valencia, and Andalucia. He describes his popular and transportive menu as a “road trip through Spain,” with an emphasis on more Catalan influences and showcasing both land- and sea-based ingredients.

The menu tours through starters—“para picar” (for the table) and pinxtos (tapas)—to more substantial or “racione” offerings. Dig in to boquerones (white anchovies) with piparras (pickled peppers) and olives, or the best-selling baconwrapped dates stuffed with blue cheese and a drizzle of honey. You’ll also find prawns with chorizo and potato with baguette and chili oil; calamari à la plancha; and Catalan-style meatballs with green olive, ancho chili, and cinnamon. The menu offerings have evolved since Perro Negro first opened in 2014, with ingredients such as authentic conservas (quality tinned fish), Jamón Serrano, and Ibérico ham now easier to source, creating a more authentic experience. And the wine list, representing white, red, and rosado from many regions of Spain, keeps those spirited travel dreams alive.

Bodega in Trounce Alley boasts one of Canada’s largest Spanish sherry selections, and it’s a great way to start as you take your perch at one of their cozy bar or table seats. The bar’s menu took flight in 2014 through collective research and scouring through cookbooks. And when managing partner Emily Henderson visited Spain the following year, going through Barcelona, Seville—in the heart of sherry country—and San Sebastian, she realized they were on the right track. She brought back a menu item of roasted eggplant, goat cheese, and mint; she started serving gin and tonics in Spanish-style copa de balon, or balloon, glasses; and she made a foray into vermut (vermouth) to complement Bodega’s sherry list. Bodega, along with the diminutive Bar Poco next door and neighbouring Tapa Bar, all have their devoted clientele. The spirit of Spain’s food and socializing culture pulsates throughout this trio of spaces, each with its own unique personality.

The limited kitchen space at Bodega means they had to get creative while pumping out delicious and authentic flavours. Their daily pinchos board is hugely popular: three little bites on a board along with the rotating selection of charcuterie and cheeses. Overseen by long-time chef Christian Duquette, the classics are well represented here with stuffed piquillo peppers, tortilla Española, gambas al ajillo tossed in a garlic-chili butter, and roasted patatas bravas bathed in a spicy tomato sauce. There are also braised and heartier items, such as chicken with couscous, olives and apricots, and long-simmering mushrooms with lentils and optional oven-roasted chorizo, all meant for sharing. In addition to the best-sellers, the menu is dynamic and changes with the seasons. One of Bodega’s bartenders, also an organic farmer, brings in seasonal heirloom tomatoes, greens, and the wonderful Padrón peppers—presented seared with a sprinkling of sea salt.

In Vancouver, Cómo Taperia recently received the prestigious Restaurants from Spain certification from the Spanish government, making it the first restaurant in Western Canada (of just two in the country) to be named an authentic ambassador of Spanish culture. Owners Shaun Layton and Frankie Harrington, who travel regularly to Spain, have really captured the Spanish tapas experience, not only with their conservas selection but with their happyhour experience offering a free tapa with drink purchase, and details such as logo-printed paper napkins, something you see throughout Spanish tapas bars.

You’ll also find pan con tomate, a simple slice of bread smeared with fresh tomato and olive oil; Marcona almonds; and the classic Gilda, a small skewer, or banderilla, of pickled pepper, olive, and anchovy. Cómo’s frito section delights with croquetas, and raciones include such treats as charred pork neck, garlic shrimp, clams and chorizo, or barbecue octopus, with selected Spanish meats and cheeses. Beverages continue the party with G&Ts, Basque cider, an ever-changing Spanish beer and wine selection, including txakoli, and—on tap!—sherry, vermut and sangria.

Whether you’re peckish or “hangry,” the tiny bites of Spain are one delicious way to get your graze on.

VIN AIGRE

High-quality craft vinegars can be as nuanced as extra virgin olive oil, as varied in flavour and viscosity as fine wines.

VINEGAR IS THE QUINTESSENTIAL sour taste. A mix of acetic acid and water, whose name is derived from the French words “vin aigre” (sour wine), its lip-puckering flavour is so familiar we take it for granted. Which makes sense given vinegar has been a part of human history since the Babylonians discovered a bottle of sour fig wine 5,000 years ago. That distinctive taste is important for digestion, activating salivary fluids and encouraging bile flow so our livers are up to the mighty task of processing nutrients and waste products.

Vinegar-making is a two-step fermentation process. Yeast feeds on the sugars from fruits such as apples and grapes or grains such as rice and barley. (Vinegar can be made from just about anything organic, but these are the most popular.) The resulting liquid ferments into alcohol, which is then exposed to oxygen and the Acetobacter bacteria to ferment again. Although vinegar-making is an ancient art, it was the modern scientist Louis Pasteur who identified its key bacteria.

That sour brew can be as nuanced as extra virgin olive oil, as varied in flavour and viscosity as a fine wine. Indeed, some vinegars start life as red or white wine, sherry or champagne. Others begin with the raw ingredients—apples, rice, barley, grapes—to make alcohol, then go through the second fermentation. Some have a clean, sharp, neutral flavour like distilled white vinegar made from grain alcohol, which can clock in as high as 10 per cent acetic acid. On the other end of the complexity spectrum are the mellow, aged balsamics and the dense, malty, less acidic black rice vinegars so important in authentic hot and sour soup. Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands are home to some fine acetic acid artisans. In the Cowichan Valley, Venturi-Schulze makes balsamic vinegar, simmering their own grapes over an open fire and aging the result in French oak barrels, some of it for as long as 30 years. Metchosin’s Bilston Creek apple cider vinegar (ACV) is made from a blend of their own heritage apples hand-pressed in early fall and aged for a deep flavour. On Gabriola, Ravenskill Orchards is also brewing ACV from local island apples. Spinnakers has been

fermenting its own malt version since the day Paul Hadfield discovered a neglected bottle of Hefeweisen had turned into a tantalizing condiment.

Over on Salt Spring Island, Bree Eagle is also crafting malt vinegars from local brews such as Dry Porter and British IPA, as well as fully fermented, raw, unpasteurized vinegars from local fruits. She emphasizes that these aren’t infused vinegars. “Our raspberry vinegar is not simply white wine vinegar that had some raspberries soaking in it for a while. It is actually made directly from the fruit.”

Science suggests it may not be quite the panacea some modern health sources claim but it does show promise for diabetics. According to Harvard University, a meta-analysis of 11 small clinical trials observed that individuals taking vinegar (2–4 teaspoons daily) showed “significantly reduced” glucose and insulin levels when tested after meals. And a small pilot study of 14 diabetics who took vinegar twice daily with meals reduced their fasting glucose at 12 weeks.

Herbalist know well that vinegar efficiently extracts the medicinal properties of herbs and, similarly, craft vinegars contain all the goodness of their ingredients. Balsamics, for example, contain iron, calcium, potassium, manganese, phosphorus and magnesium— the nutrients of the grapes that made them. ACV’s pectin is an excellent prebiotic—the fibre that feeds our friendly gut bacteria. And since vinegars are low in calories and contain vitamins, mineral salts, amino acids, and antioxidants, there’s good reason to include high-quality, artisan vinegar in your meals whenever possible.

One of my favourite infused vinegars is Four Thieves. The story goes that during a plague in Europe, a band of thieves robbed the graves of those who had died of the disease but still stayed healthy. Their secret? A herbal tonic now known as Four Thieves Vinegar. When city officials caught up with the bandits, they were given their freedom in exchange for the recipe, which was posted on the city walls so everyone could make it. And we can too.

Having dabbled in making fruit vinegars myself, I can tell you this is a very different flavour, with a depth and character more akin to wine. Bree makes her fruit wine and balsamic-style vinegars with ingredients like rhubarb, figs, strawberries, grapefruit, elderberries, and oak-aged blackberries,

These kinds of vinegars are a zingy addition to savoury food—brightening flavours and cutting through fat to add balance to a rich dish. Vinegar-lovers are also adding them to cocktails, even desserts. And, of course, this is salad season and good quality vinegars make the best vinaigrettes.

The ancients considered vinegar a medicine and an essential preservative.

Measure 2 tsps each of crumbled dried sage leaf, lavender flower, rosemary, and thyme, as well as chopped garlic to taste, into a mason jar. Set aside. Slowly heat 16 ounces of apple cider or red wine vinegar to the temperature of warm bath water. (Boiling kills the active good bacteria.)

Pour this brew over the herbs and garlic, filling right to the brim. Top with a plastic lid or a metal one lined with a square of wax paper (vinegar is corrosive). Store in a cool, dark place for four weeks. Shake the jar to assist in extraction whenever you think of it. Strain vinegar into glass bottles. Whether it wards off our next plague or not, there’s no question artisan vinegars make a healthy addition to any meal.

Liquid Assets

HOME GROWN

Larry Arnold focuses his attention—and his taste buds—on the wines of BC’s Okanagan.

Frind Estate Brut VQA NV Okanagan $25.00

After receiving a diploma in computer programming at BCIT in 1999, Markus Frind developed an online dating website called Plenty of Fish, with which I am certain many of you are familiar. He sold his company to Match.com for a lot of money in 2015 and decided to start a winery, with vineyards, in West Kelowna. It’s a good thing he made so much money selling POF because he has been busy spending a lot of it on his new project, Frind Estate Winery. Ensconced beachside on beautiful Lake Okanagan, this shrine to high-tech winemaking is but a short drive to one of BC’s majestic wine icons, Mission Hill. The wine, you may well ask! What about the bubble? Well, just let me say this about that. These are early days for this new winery, but with legendary BC winemaker Eric von Krosigk at the helm, things are already looking good. The Brut is a blend of Riesling (76 per cent) and Chardonnay (24 per cent) aged for 15 months on its lees before being disgorged. Nice tight bead with plenty of citrus and a whiff of petrol on the nose. Nicely balanced with clean fruit flavours and a long crisp finish. This is tasty fizz!

Mission Hill Legacy Collection Perpetua 2020 Okanagan $65.00

This delicious Okanagan Chardonnay is irresistible. Harvested from fruit sourced at Mission Hill’s Border Vista Vineyard in Osoyoos and Naramata Bench Vineyard, fermented and aged sur lee for 16 months in French oak and concrete eggs, the wine is what the French would describe as “big-shouldered.” Very aromatic with rich citrus, stone fruit, and toast aromas, mouth-filling viscosity, beautifully balanced, with supple fruit flavours, clean, fresh acidity, and a long creamy finish. Delicious!

Kettle Valley Hayman “John’s Block” Pinot Noir

2020 Okanagan $38.00

In memory of the highly respected wine aficionado John Levine, who passed away in 2012, the single vineyard Hayman Pinot Noir was renamed Hayman “John’s Block” with this vintage. The wine was aged in French oak for 20 months before bottling. Concentrated but elegant with heady aromas of blackberry, cherry, and spice and more than a hint of oak on the nose. Medium-bodied and richly textured with layers of fruit, silky tannins, and great length.

Bartier Bros. Brut NV Okanagan $35.00

Located on the outskirts of Oliver, in the south Okanagan, Bartier Bros. has fashioned this nonvintage “Traditional Method” Brut from 100 per cent Chardonnay. The young wine spent four months in stainless steel before the secondary fermentation was induced, in the bottle, followed by another 12 months in the bottle on the lees before disgorgement and release. Bartier Bros. Brut is finished with zero dosage added. Fresh and elegant with a lovely gentle mousse, enticing apple, mineral, and brioche aromas, subtle Okanagan fruit and mineral flavours with a long dry finish. Not bad for their first sparkling wine release.

Cedar Creek Platinum Haynes Creek Syrah VQA

2020 Okanagan $65.00

Very polished and tight, with concentrated blackberry, earth, black pepper, and fleeting hints of violets on the nose. Medium-bodied with dark fruit, spice, and herbal nuances on the palate nicely balanced with a blush of fine-grained tannins.

Mission Hill Exhilarat!on Brut Rosé VQA NV

Okanagan $40.00

Made from Pinot Noir sourced from vineyards located on the Black Sage and Golden Mile Bench in the south Okanagan, this tasty little Brut was made using the Charmat Method, with the secondary fermentation taking place in pressurized tanks before being filtered and finally bottled. The results are impressive: dusty pink with subtle peach, strawberry, and cherry aromas and flavours, tiny persistent bubbles, and a soft, refreshing finish.

Cedar Creek Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2022

Okanagan $25.00

Sourced from fruit grown in the south Okanagan, this elegant Sauvignon Blanc is an exercise in restraint, with savoury grassy notes, citrus, and subtle passionfruit flavours, zippy acidity, and good length.

Hester Creek Chardonnay VQA 2021

Okanagan $25.00

Partially barrel-fermented in new French oak, the remainder in stainless steel, the young wine was aged in large 500-litre French oak puncheons for 10 months on its fine lees before blending and bottling. Round and supple, with lush aromas of toasted cashews, citrus, and peaches. On the palate, Hester Creek Chardonnay is balanced and concentrated with toasty oak, pear, and ripe apple flavours, a lovely creamy texture, and a long buttery finish.

Located high on the Golden Mile Bench, the original Old Vine vineyard was planted in the early 1970s and the vinifera vines are the oldest in the province. Planted by legendary wine curmudgeon Joe Busnardo, who is still growing grapes and making wine at his Cobble Hill estate on Vancouver Island, his vision and stubbornness regarding the ability of European grape vines to survive the harsh Canadian winters turned the prevailing orthodoxy on its head and, as they say, the rest is history. The 2020 vintage was a warm one, and this Old Vine Merlot delivers the goods, with black cherry, brown sugar, and spice aromas. Nicely balanced with good acidity and juicy, ripe berry, leather, and vanilla flavours with a patina of soft tannins to hold it all together.

Inn at Laurel Point | @duocafebakery

Opening September 2023

Eating Well For Less

FROM MIDDLE EAST TO FAR EAST

Two women owner-chefs are cooking up Syrian pastries, Thai noodles, and other eastern delicacies at two fine Victoria restaurants.

Syriana Restaurant

1258 ESQUIMALT RD., NEAR ADMIRALS, 250-590-2787

SYRIANA IS SUNNY AND cheerful, with flowers on every table and a large “Salam Victoria” sign painted on the wall. Salam means “peace” and is a common greeting in Arabic-speaking countries. Equally sunny is the irrepressible owner, Safaa Naeman, who fled Syria to Canada in 1997, studied English at Camosun College, started a catering business in 2021, and has, as of April 2023, achieved her dream of opening a restaurant.

Safaa told me she wants to “represent Syrian cuisine—the culture, civilization, and love.” And it’s clear that love goes into the Cheese Fatayer pastry. I was initially astounded by the fact that the pastry is eight inches long! The soft crust encases three types of cheese—mozzarella, ricotta, and feta—finding a midpoint between sweet and savoury. It sells for $6.25.

The hummus for $8.50 is actually served as a small meal: a tub of hummus, a side

and yellow and red pepper, is served along with the twist of pickled turnips. The pita bread is soft and tender. And you can’t leave a Syrian restaurant without trying some falafel, offered for $1.50 a piece. These are like little chickpea minidoughnuts, with crisp brown crusts and fluffy, airy centres.

For a big dish of food, opt for the simply named “Rice and Meat” for $18.50. A mound of flavourful golden rice is spiced with curry, cardamom, and smoked paprika, topped with peas and marinated peppers, and offered with a choice of three different meats. I enjoyed the beef kebabs, bursting with flavour thanks to their seasonings of black and white pepper, onion, paprika, and cardamom.

“We promised when we arrived to be a good addition […] to this beautiful community,” Safaa told me. Her family and their restaurant most certainly are fine additions to Victoria.

Nohra Thai Kitchen

2524 ESTEVAN AVE., NEAR MUSGRAVE ST., 250-595-7868

OWNER AND CHEF PHEN BRYAN grew up in the restaurant industry—her parents had a restaurant in Phuket during her college years. “Coming from that part of the world, food is everything,” she says. She has put together a menu that showcases a range of Thai dishes beyond what I am accustomed to. The appetizer menu is full of delicacies. Must-tries are the Chicken Curry Puffs for $15 and the Thai Crab Cakes for $16. The curry puffs are five small Thai samosas stuffed with yam and chicken and served with a bowl of yellow beet, cucumber, and onion relish. The crab cakes are the best I’ve ever had—crisp on the outside and creamy on the inside. The same relish, but with red beet, accompanies the crab cakes, as does a zesty dipping sauce made of pickled plum and rice vinegar.

On the main menu, the Phad See Ew for $17 is plentiful and satisfying. This popular Thai street food features thin brown rice vermicelli noodles, tossed with zucchini, broccoli, carrots, and egg, all

in a sweet soy sauce. Something very unique on the Nohra menu is the Spicy and Sour Curry (Gaeng Sam), which comes only from Phen’s childhood home of Phatthalung. Like all main dishes, this is a dish for sharing. It is pork belly, daikon, and papaya served in a soupy sauce seasoned with turmeric, garlic, and shrimp paste. Definitely choose the coconut rice as the side to go with this dish; it is seasoned with pandan leaf, giving it a hint of grassiness.

It’s hard to stop ordering here. The Nohra Thai Refresher for $6 is a vibrant drink made of muddled mint, pineapple juice, and coconut milk. And the dessert menu has a very vividly coloured dish. The Mango Sticky Rice for $13 has a base of coconut milk and rice steamed with pea flower, rendering it an intense blue. Then comes the layer of fresh mango, and then sprinkled on top are mung beans that have been soaked, steamed, and then roasted, making them nutty.

There are many Thai dishes here that are unique to Victoria. Be sure to reserve if you are coming for dinner.

ELIZABETH NYLAND

Chicken Curry Puffs and Thai Crab Cakes

It’s not surprising that a town with such a high calibre restaurant scene should also have an impressive and diverse fleet of food trucks. However, it can sometimes be a challenge to track down your favourites. EAT is here to help. We’ve mapped out just a few to get you started. Some have permanent or semi-permanent homes, and some have regular market gigs this summer.

deadbeetz

Langford Station and Roving

Deadbeetz has two burger-focused food trucks named Clarence and Beetrice. With classic burgers, cheeseburgers, cashew-chickpea burgers, and more, there’s something for everyone. Don’t skip the pickled beets! You can find Beetrice at Langford Station every Friday to Sunday, noon to 7 p.m., while Clarence roams to events, including the Esquimalt Farmers Market Thursdays, 4:30 to 7:30 p.m. deadbeetz com

Kattia’s Kitchen Roving

Kattia is originally from Tabasco, Mexico, but has been serving up her authentic Mexican cuisine in the Greater Victoria region since 2009. This food truck is a great option for those with food restrictions as the menu features gluten-free, dairyfree, keto, and vegan options. Don’t miss the vegan street tacos with calabacitas con elote (zucchini and corn in tomatillo sauce). kattiaskitchen net

songhees Food Truck

1502 Admirals Rd.

This Indigenous-owned and operated food truck offers a menu rooted in the Songhees Nation’s history. Chef David Roger collaborates with community members to develop a menu that presents a contemporary take on Songhees cultural tradition. Try the wild salmon and clam chowder, Chef Dave’s truffle fries, or a bison burger. Tuesday to Saturday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. songheesevents ca/food-truck

They’re here, there, and everywhere and that means great food on the go. We help you track them down.

Images supplied by owners

WORDS

Rebecca Baugniet

scorpion cheF

Roving

Features hot, ready-to-eat artisan empanadas for noshing on the go, as well as frozen empanadas to bake at home. Options include traditional beef, grilled chicken, homemade chorizo, five veggies, and Argentinean chimichurri. Find it at the Esquimalt Farmers Market Thursdays, 4:30 to 7 p.m. and the Duncan Farmers Market Saturdays, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. scorpionchef com

bird & basket

Roving

The Rock Bay Market launched its food truck in 2022, specializing in bowls and wraps with house-made pickles, lacto-fermented provisions, and farm fresh vegetables. Find it at the Esquimalt Farmers Market Thursdays, 4:30 to 7:30 p.m., Langford Station Fridays, 4 to 8 p.m., and the Oaklands Sunset Market Wednesdays, 4 to 7:30 p.m. rockbaymarket.ca/birdbasket

Taco Justice

1580 Cook St.

Ever popular for its unique taco fillings, Taco Justice has a permanent location on Cook Street near Pandora. How can you resist a taco called “the Green Bastard,” featuring deep-fried avocado wedges, crispy Cheddar, oh-snap and chipotle sauces, charred tomato salsa, pineapple, cilantro, and a snappy watercress slaw? Open Sunday to Thursday, noon to 8.30 p.m. and Friday and Saturday, noon to 9 p.m. tacojustice com

Morning People

325 Cook St. (Cook Street Village courtyard)

Yes, there is a food truck for breakfast too!

At its current location since 2020, Morning People serves breakfast sandwiches, hashes, and smoothie bowls. Monday to Sunday, 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. morningpeoplefoodtruck com

L’authentique

2924 Jacklin Rd.

As its name suggests, L’Authentique serves up authentic Québécois poutine and burgers. You can find the food truck most often in Langford, but sometimes also at the Esquimalt Lagoon. lauthentiquepoutineandburgers.com

greek n’ go

1580 Cook St. and 3588 Quarry St., Colwood

This family-owned and operated business opened its first truck in late 2022 and serves up authentic Greek street food including pita wraps, combo platters, and traditional desserts. Open Monday to Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 8:30 p.m., Sunday noon to 8 p.m. The second truck launched in May and will be in Colwood all summer, Monday to Wednesday, noon to 8 p.m. greekngo ca

Follow food trucks on social media or the Street Food App (streetfoodapp.com) to see where they plan to be and when.

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Cool Brew

The ’70s nostalgia at Swift Brewing and the Good Time Tasting Room creates a chill vibe for a summer session.

THIS NEW VICTORIA BREWERY’S trendy retro vibe seems right at home in the 1894 Swift Street heritage building that once housed a generating station to power the city’s streetlights. Swift Brewing, which shares the building with CRAFT Beer Market, opened its doors on May 23.

Walking into the space is reminiscent of your cool grandparents’ basement stylized and untouched since the ’70s. “PJ L’Heureux, the founder and owner of CRAFT Beer Market, has always wanted to have a space like this,” says Keith Hofmann, general manager of Swift. “He’s spent quite a bit of time curating everything that is in here.”

Every detail in the room fits the retro theme: the mid-century modern furniture, the knitted throw blankets, the Atari 2600 console, the collection of VHS tapes— the list could go on. Even the coasters each sport a profile of a timely celebrity such as Rick James, Tom Selleck, Pamela Anderson, and David Hasselhoff. Stepping into Swift is entering a curated time capsule with soft warm lighting and inviting exposed brick walls. “Everything in here is vintage with the exception of the chairs at the bar because we needed them to be matching heights,” says Hofmann. “It’s a cool and trendy look right now and there is no other space like this in Victoria.”

While Swift and CRAFT Brewing share owners and a roof, Swift is autonomously operated. It’s possible to order food from the CRAFT kitchen and have it delivered, but Swift has its own collection of rec-room-style snacks that naturally fit the theme. Chex Mix and olive plates are available, but the star of the show is the Jiffy Pop—made to order and delivered to the table in all its domed, tinfoil glory. “As soon as we get one popping, people start asking about it and before we know it 10 more will be on order,” says Hofmann.

Swift’s beer is brewed in-house in the former Canoe Brewing space and led by head brewer Adam Morrow, previously of Moon Under Water Brewery and Phillips Brewing. Currently, their five beer varieties on tap are drawn directly from the holding tanks on the brewery side. The three core beers in their repertoire, also available for retail in cans, include the Golden Boy Lager, the Smooth Operator Citra Hazy Pale Ale, and the Disco Juice IPA. All of them are crisp, hazy, and juicy sessional-style beers. The Citra Hazy IPA feels like something perfect for a hot summer day—not too heavy or unapproachable with loads of tangy citrus notes. Their remaining taps will rotate often with their seasonal varieties and collaborations with other breweries. At the time of writing, they have the Crockett and Stubbs New Zealand Lager on tap, a collaboration with Whistle Buoy Brewing, as well as the Bestie Hefe Hefeweizen, a collaboration with Moon Under Water Brewery.

JOHANN VINCENT

Experience Local. Shop local. Taste local. Support local.

While this heritage building has seen its share of transformations over the years, swapping hands from Canoe to CRAFT just last year, it’s refreshing to have Victoria’s newest brewery location grounded in the past. With styles and trends changing so rapidly, it’s nice to be able to step back in time for a moment and experience a bit of nostalgia in this timelessly cool style.

ADRIAN PARADIS

Retro vibe at the Good Time Tasting Room

450 SWIFT ST., VICTORIA, SWIFTBREWING.CA

JOHANN VINCENT

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Wild Island Eats

The Bridge Street brewery Île Sauvage is cooking up inventive foods that are a worthy match for their Island-inspired brews.

ÎLE SAUVAGE BREWING HAS long been known for its sour beers and fruity, adventurous flavours, often drawing inspiration from the “wild” bounty of Vancouver Island. In May, the brewery announced the beginning of Wild Island Eats, a kitchen and food program counterpart to operate at its location on Bridge Street. “We’re excited because we’ve always wanted to do food, we just weren’t sure if it would materialize in this location,” says co-owner and head brewer Stephane Turcotte.

Since opening in 2017, Île Sauvage has often hosted pop-ups for other restaurants and food vendors at their brewery, including Dumpling Drop before they settled on a brick-and-mortar location. During the summer of last year, they were regular hosts to Good Side Bakery and Missing Link hotdogs. “This past winter, coming out of Covid, we wondered what we could do that would be new and fun,” says Turcotte. “We came up with food.”

The menu, which Turcotte describes as bites of world food, is prepared in a food truck permanently parked at their location. Their most popular dish so far is his wife’s recipe for Korean-style dumplings, which are steamed and served with sesame dipping sauce. Despite what your associations of a food truck might be, food here is served on real plates and with full service. On their menu is a variety of inspired bowls and shared plates, many of which are fresh and light, like the Saigon Bowl with crunchy pickled daikon, tofu, and chopped veggies on top of

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wild rice with vegan pâté. “We want to make something delicious, flavourful, but also healthy,” says Turcotte. “We don’t want to just do plates of fries, but we’ll never say never.” If you’re looking for something with more substance, shared options like the Wild Nachos with pulled pork, pico de gallo, guacamole, and an addictive tangy sriracha lime dip are also available. To top it off, they even have a vegan “Jar o’ S’Mores” for dessert.

“We’ve always been foodies, and I think the beer we make reflects that,” says Turcotte. Having the full creative power to pair their beer with their own food opens up a whole new world for Turcotte and his team. “Every spring we do a spruce tip beer,” he says. “This year our forager picked us 85 pounds of spruce tips, but we also got an extra five pounds for the kitchen.” This means that over the summer months, spruce tips will feature on their food menu and can be paired with their seasonal beer using the same flavour profile. Continuing this trend of being thoughtful about their food and beer pairings, Turcotte says he’s excited about hosting new beer release events. If they introduce a Mexican-style lager, for example, they plan to pair it with Mexican-inspired dishes. “Because we’re into cooking, our beer is already inspired by food. We make a lot of sour beers, and we use a lot of local fruit and herbs when we do it.”

If the quality and ingenuity of Île Sauvage’s beer is anything to go on, no doubt their food program will be a wild success. While it’s still in its early days with only a few items on the menu, and more being introduced every week, Île Sauvage will no doubt be a summer go-to spot for those looking for creative sour beers and thoughtfully paired food.

ADRIAN PARADIS

Tuna Poke Bowl and Pulled Pork Sandwich

JOHANN VINCENT

Inn at Laurel Point 680 Montreal St aurarestaurant.ca @aurayyj • #EatAtAura

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immerse yourself in local flavour with spectacular views slip 53 patio at the blue crab now open

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What’s the Buzz at 732 Yates?

As downtown Victoria’s summer pulse amplifies to the beats of visitors, staycationers, workers, wanderers, buskers, and all the folks who reside in this multilayered centre, a sweet eatery and gathering place on Yates Street is buzzing, building, almost primed to welcome you.

FOR THE PAST COUPLE of months, the curious have been peeking in the window at the previous location of Agrius and Fol Epi, wondering, “What’s next?” (Thankfully, we can still savour Fol Epi at Dockside.) So, what is happening in there, as designers, tradespeople, and others ebb and flow through those doors? Make way for Tombo, with Crust Bakery’s Tom Moore at the helm.

Many know Tom Moore as co-owner of bustling Crust Bakery on Fort Street. With its exquisite offerings, including Bacon, Tomato, and Smoked Cheddar mini-quiches, Almond Frangipane Twist mini tarts, fresh rye and sourdough bread, sumptuous daily sammies and cakes, the lineups have not subsided since it opened in 2013, even through the pandemic. For Moore, a well-established chef who shifted to baking to align with his then-small children’s schedules, this immutable consistency reinforced his belief that, at the end of the day, no matter what’s going on, we all want yummy food. As a multi-award-winning chef with a fierce appetite and aptitude for creating beautiful food and bringing people together, it was only a matter of time before he craved a new venture.

Tom Moore

Enter Tombo. Picture this: there’s a flow and a vibe that’s familiar, welcoming, elevated, and fun. Your senses pique to the music, aromas, energy, and, of course, the menu. Open 8 – 4-ish (not confirmed at the time of writing), you can pick up a cuppa and a pastry on your way to work or as you walk the dog. Drop in at lunch for a nosh, hang out, date, business bite, or early happy hour and share some plates in the main seating or on the lively patio outside. The space is inspired by LA’s Gjelina and Ottolenghi’s restaurants. The music’s always on. Tombo breathes elegance and grit. And the food? There’s house-made charcuterie, sodas, ferments, pickles, baked goods, snacks, seasonal fare, cocktails, and a full wine program. At the time of writing, the only menu item shared was an orange chili albacore tuna tartare served with house-made sourdough crackers. Um, yum. Yes, please.

Tom grew up in Tamworth, 400 km north of Sydney, Australia, on his parents’ 110-acre culinary and medicinal herb farm. He began noodling in the kitchen from a very young age. Imbued with the smells and flavours, along with his parents’ passion for growing and making food and celebrating often with friends and family, Tom’s path to the culinary arts was forged. He started his culinary studies at age 16, and by 19, with what he describes as his “deep chef-like passions and

arrow-straight ambitions,” he won Australian Apprentice Chef of the Year from the Australian Vocational Education and Training Authority.

With mad talent, determination, and a killer sense of humour, Tom travelled to Canada in 1998 and landed an executive chef position in Victoria. He was young, so to fit in better and play the part, he grew a goatee and claimed to be 10 years older than he was. There, Tom met his (now former) wife Crystal. They moved back to Canberra and he opened the multi-award-winning Sage, named in honour of his parents and childhood on the farm. Tom also enjoyed teaching at the Canberra Institute of Technology (CIT), training apprentice chefs, judging cooking competitions, and writing articles. Next, Tom acquired Grazing, a restaurant focused on ultra-local with a ½-acre farm and chickens. He shifted to baking in 2009, opened Knead bakery in Canberra when his kids were little so he could see them more, and won Australian Young Restaurateur of the Year. Within a couple of years, the family returned to Victoria, Crystal’s hometown, where they settled and opened Crust. Tom has now opened Tombo as owner.

Tombo was Tom’s childhood nickname, another tip of the hat to his love for all things food and festivity as a child. Tombo is also Japanese for “dragonfly,” which could signify transformation and a bit of magic. Upon a little digging, I learned that different dragonfly species swarm to feed together, an unexplained phenomena. This resonates with Tom’s desire to unite people in feasting, connecting, and celebrating. Also, much of a dragonfly’s head is eye, resulting in sharp vision, which speaks to Tom’s ambition, focus, and drive.

Slated to open this summer, “team” Tombo includes a few of Agrius’s past team members, design firms Becoming Design and Hansenbuilt, as well as menu insights and discussion with recipe developer, food stylist, photographer, cookbook writer, and friend Rebecca Wellman. According to Sarah Donald, principal and co-founder of Hansenbuilt, “As storytelling is an inextricable part of design, we are wanting to create a space for Tombo that tells an evocative, vibrant, bold, and adventurous story. One that has a distinctive point of view and encourages new experiences.”

RECIPE + STYLING + PHOTOGRAPHY

Rebecca Wellman

A fresh and light summertime pizza alternative to make on the grill.

It’ssummertime, it’s hot, and cooking dinner every night can feel like a bit of a ghastly task. This recipe makes use of summer abundance, some simple, pre-made (or homemade if you are so inclined) ingredients, and, of course, that ever-reliable grill.

This isn’t the gooey, cheesy pizza you may be used to, but more of a bright, fresh, summery flatbread with the creaminess of whipped ricotta, the zing of pesto, and the healthful, earthy notes of fresh tomatoes and zucchini. Eat the flatbread as-is or add some grilled prawns and an arugula salad to the menu, rounding it out for a complete meal.

Grilled Flatbread

Serves 2–4

135 g zucchini (about ¾ of a medium zucchini)

1 tsp salt

1 280 g tub of ricotta (about 1 cup)

1 head roasted garlic, peeled* (If you don’t manage to roast the garlic, feel free to use 3 fresh garlic cloves for this recipe instead)

Zest of 1 medium lemon (about 1 Tbsp)

Juice of 1 medium lemon (about 2 Tbsp)

¼ cup finely grated Parmesan

Pinch chili flakes

2 Tbsp basil pesto, plus more for drizzling

Salt and pepper

1 Tbsp olive oil

1 lb raw pre-made pizza dough (to buy, try Ottavio or The Root Cellar)

2–4 medium tomatoes, thinly sliced Fresh basil leaves

Lay a clean tea towel on a large sheet pan.

Using a mandoline or a very sharp knife, slice the zucchini as thin as possible into rounds. Set the rounds in a single layer on the prepared sheet pan. Sprinkle with 1 tsp salt and let sit while you prepare the remaining ingredients.

To a mini processor or blender, add the ricotta, the garlic, lemon zest, lemon juice, Parmesan, and chili flakes. Blend until well combined. Add the pesto and pulse until just blended. Taste and add salt and pepper if needed.

Brush a large sheet pan with about 1 Tbsp olive oil. Heat the grill or barbecue to high heat (about 500°F).

Cut the dough ball in half and using your fingertips, press and stretch out one piece until it is flattened

as much as possible. The dough will spring back, but keep at it. Repeat with the second piece, then return to the first piece, continuing to press and stretch until it keeps its shape. Repeat again with the second piece.

Swipe each piece of dough through the oil on the sheet pan and place, oil side down, on the grill. Cook for 1–2 minutes, until it puffs a bit and browns on the bottom. Keep an eye on it—it can burn quickly.

Once both pieces of dough are browned nicely, place them, cooked side up, back on the oiled sheet pan.

Top each flatbread evenly with the ricotta-pesto mixture. Pat the zucchini rounds dry with the towel, then place them on top of the ricotta. Place the tomato slices on top of the zucchini, and season with salt and pepper.

Slide the flatbreads back onto the grill and cook for another 2 minutes, or until the dough is cooked through and the bottom is nicely browned.

Drizzle with some more pesto, and top with fresh basil leaves. Slice and serve.

* If you have the oven on for any other reason, consider roasting a head of garlic, as well! They will keep in the fridge for a few days and are so great in salad dressings, in sauces, or to mash into guacamole or salsa. Slice the top ½ inch off of a garlic head. Set it on a square of aluminum foil and drizzle with a little olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Twist the foil tightly around the garlic head and roast at 375°F for about 45 minutes. Let cool completely, then peel the cloves. You can also squeeze the cooked cloves right out of the head.

As we ease into our summer rhythms here in the Garden City, the desire to mingle over a few choice bites pulls us towards some of our favourite haunts. Local restaurants tempt us with happy hour deals on both food and drink, offering up an enjoyable transition from the workday to our best lives.

Across Victoria, patio furniture has long been unshackled, brushed off, and buffed up for eager patrons searching for respite from stuffy offices or crowded sidewalks with a desire for a happy hour, or two. Luckily for us, the city is home to a vast number of restaurants, many with splendid patios, some packed at all hours, others small oases or hidden gems among the summer throngs. Whether searching for a few fine tipples or something to put the “hangry” to rest, we’ve got you covered with a list of some of our favourite happy hour deals, some of which might even be enjoyed alfresco.

Boom + Batten

You will be hard-pressed to find a more idyllic setting to enjoy a quick nosh than the seaside patio at Boom + Batten. With happy hour running twice daily from 2 to 5 p.m. and again from 9 p.m. to close, you not only get to relax after a day’s work, but you can fill up before a night out or enjoy one last bite before heading home. Their menu at time of writing consisted of a wide range of items for all palates and hungers, including pescatarian and vegetarian. They have recently hired a new chef, so look for some new exciting menu options to come.

During happy hour, Boom + Batten serves up $6 pints of Phillips Pilsner and Hoyne Dark Matter as well as a $7 pint of Peroni. They have bottles of wine at $25, $30, and $40, as well as 5 oz. glasses of cab/merlot, rosé, and chardonnay for $8, including a variety of bubbles.

The Palms

This chic and sexy cocktail bar on the ground floor of the Rialto Hotel has floor-to-ceiling windows and an art deco vibe. The Palms is a place where locals can get to know each other over meticulously crafted cocktails or a pint from a selection of fine local beers. Happy hours are from 4 to 5:30 p.m. and 9 p.m. to close, daily. With both vegetarian- and meat-focused items, the happy hour menu has something for everyone. The restaurant focuses on doing simple things really, really well, working directly with local distillers to come up with perfectly balanced spirits for their signature cocktails. Nothing says summer like a piña colada with handcrafted pineapple rum from Stealth Distilleries in North Vancouver.

1450 DOUGLAS ST., 250-383-7310

The Tapa Bar/ Bodega

One of Victoria’s favourite happy hours is served in Trounce Alley, a romantic breezeway between Government and Broad streets. A heritage brick and stone building, wrought-iron gates, and lights strung over top of the heated patio, The Tapa Bar creates the perfect Spanish ambiance for a night out downtown. Tapa Bar’s happy hour consists of house wines at $6.50 or $11 with pints, shafts, and glasses of sangria selling for $6. A selection of menu items is also available during happy hour, my personal favourite being the Mussels de Cha Cha Cha in a wonderfully piquant pepper sauce. Happy hour at The Tapa Bar runs daily 3 to 5 p.m., as well as 9 p.m. to close Sunday to Thursday and 10 p.m. to close on Friday and Saturday. (Happy hour is also offered next door at Bodega, Tapa Bar’s sister restaurant. Read more about Bodega in Side Dish pg. 5).

620 TROUNCE ALLEY, 250-383-0013

2 PAUL KANE PL., 250-940-5850

Spinnakers

For 40 years Spinnakers has sat on the most idyllic corner of the Songhees Waterway, serving up some of Canada’s finest craft beers as well as incredible, locally sourced cuisine. With stunning views of Victoria’s Inner Harbour and the Olympic Mountains in the background, the patios at Spinnakers are an enjoyable place to relax with friends while unwinding from your day. Happy hours run from 3 to 5 p.m., Monday to Friday, and 9 p.m. to close, Sunday through Thursday. You can try some of their inspired beers straight out of the tanks in the back, have a cocktail or glass of wine, and a selection of Songhees Snacks as you play pool or throw darts. A fine way to spend an afternoon!

308 CATHERINE ST., 250-386-2739

Small Gods Brewery

Not technically a happy hour, you still can’t go wrong with a late afternoon spent on the patio at Small Gods, the sunniest in Sidney. Having been open just over a year and already placing well in the provincial beer awards, Small Gods has come out of the gate hot and been producing an impressive array of creative and refreshing beers. Whether you’ve been cruising the Lochside Trail or scouring the various bookshops on Beacon Avenue, stopping by Small Gods between 3 p.m. and 5 p.m. for a $6 full-pour beer and a $6 house-made pretzel is a must. Be sure to add on the incredible cheese sauce or house-made grainy mustard!

9835 THIRD ST., SIDNEY

Faro at Oak Bay Beach Hotel

If you’re keen to step outside the downtown core in search of happy-hour refreshments, Faro at the Oak Bay Beach Hotel is a gorgeous and quiet spot to relax behind the chic quaintness of the tweed curtain. With the grand hotel as a backdrop and windbreak from the Pacific Ocean, Faro has both indoor seating and a stunning patio, beautifully landscaped and heated for those cool summer evenings near the water. After strolling along Beach Drive or enjoying the sun at Willows Beach, stopping at Faro between 1 p.m. and 4 p.m. for some happy hour refreshments is a surefire way to extend the contentment of your day. At the time of writing, the chef at Faro was coming up with a new happyhour menu for the summer to match the quality of the surroundings.

1175 BEACH DR., 250-940-0302

Drinks and appies—in a sun-filled space, out of doors, streetside or seaside—pave the way for a smooth transition between work and play, especially when it starts mid-afternoon. Happy Hour(s) spell summer.

Block Kitchen + Bar

Halfway down the 500 block of Yates St., you’ll find Block Kitchen + Bar, the newest member to lower Yates’s culinary cohort. Block serves up a wonderfully inspired happy hour between 4 p.m. and 6 p.m. Exquisitely crafted cocktails, $4 pints, and house wine at $6 and $9 a pour should be enough to entice anyone to check out this Asian-inspired restaurant. Korean fried chicken, Japanese dumplings, and the steamed bao are among my favourites.

Not a complete list, but a starting point for summer fun.

10 ACRES BISTRO

611 Courtney St. 250-220-8008

AURA WATERFRONT RESTAURANT + PATIO

680 Montreal St. 250-414-6739

BOOMTOWN 950 Yates St. 778-265-9150

CHORIZO & CO 807 Fort St. 250-384-6066

FATHOM

463 Belleville St. 250-380-4458

FERRIS’ UPSTAIRS & DOWNSTAIRS

536 Yates S.t 250-360-1824

FIRE + WATER RESTAURANT

728 Humboldt St. 250-480-3800

LIDO WATERFRONT BAR & BISTRO

1234 Wharf St. 250-385-5436

LITTLE JUMBO

Down the hall, 506 Fort St. 778-433-5535

PART AND PARCEL

2656 Quadra St. 778-406-0888

PIER, THE 2538 Beacon Ave Sidney, 250-220-8008

ROOFTOP PATIO— STRATHCONA HOTEL 919 Douglas St. 250-383-7137

SURLY MERMAID, THE 9851 Seaport Place Sidney, 778-351-1544

VISTA 18 740 Burdett Ave. 50-382-9258

WIND CRIES MARY 45 Bastion Square 250-590-8989

Michael Farley

538 YATES ST., 250-590-6744

Venison is a lean yet rich meat that makes a delightful twist on the traditional beef patty.

RECIPE + STYLING + PHOTOGRAPHY Isabelle Bulota

Combining lean venison and succulent pork, blended with aromatic herbs and spices, creates a burger that is a true masterpiece. Grilled outdoors or in your kitchen, it’s sure to impress your guests and leave them craving more. So, fire up the grill, gather your ingredients, and elevate your burger game by embracing the culinary delights of venison. Bon appétit!

Makes 4 burgers

1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 large yellow onion, sliced

1 cup mushrooms, sliced

1 lb ground venison

½ lb ground pork

1 Tbsp Worcestershire sauce

2 garlic cloves, minced

4 stalks green onions, sliced

¼ cup fresh parsley, chopped

1 Tbsp fresh thyme leaves, chopped

1 tsp smoked paprika

1 tsp salt

½ tsp freshly ground black pepper

4 burger buns

4 slices Brie

2 Tbsp Dijon mustard

1 cup baby arugula leaves

4 thick tomato slices

Heat the oil in a non-stick frying pan over medium heat, add the onions to the pan, and sauté for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally with a spatula or wooden spoon until the onions starts to brown around the edges. Add the mushrooms and mix well, evenly distributing them throughout the onions.

Cook the onions and mushrooms for five to eight minutes without stirring to allow for the caramelizing process to occur.

Once the onions and mushrooms are golden brown on the bottom, stir a couple of times to turn them, and cook for another five minutes or so, allowing them to caramelize on both sides. Season with salt, if desired.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine the venison, pork, Worcestershire sauce, garlic, green onions, parsley, thyme, smoked paprika, salt, and black pepper. Mix gently until all the ingredients are well incorporated. Avoid overmixing to maintain a tender texture.

Divide the mixture into four equal portions and shape them into patties.

Preheat your grill or stovetop grill pan to medium-high heat. Lightly oil the

grates to prevent sticking. Place the patties on the grill and cook for about four to five minutes per side, or until cooked through.

During the last few minutes of grilling, add a slice of Brie to each patty and let it melt slightly.

Toast the buns on the grill until they’re lightly golden and warmed through.

Remove the patties from the grill and let them rest for a few minutes to allow the juices to redistribute.

To assemble the burgers: Spread the mustard on the inside of each bun, then place the arugula on the bottom half of each bun, followed by a tomato slice. Place the patty on top and top with the caramelized onions and mushrooms. Finish with the top half of the bun.

Serve your decadent venison burgers immediately, alongside your favourite side dishes such as crispy fries or a refreshing salad and a cold beer.

Notes: Ground venison meat (and other game meat) can be found at various specialty butchers in Victoria. Hoyne Pilsner is recommended as a nice pairing for gamey burgers.

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2032 OAK BAY AVE

Gillie Easdon escapes Victoria for a rejuvenating two-day stay highlighted by oysters, Turkish delight, exquisite Cajun cuisine, and orcas portside.

It had been a few years since I reclined on the Seattle Clipper, mulling over what to eat and explore, and I was thrilled to head out of town for a couple of nights by myself. The Clipper’s such a brilliant and efficient way to travel to the heart of Seattle. An old school friend met me upon arrival in his Citroën, and we headed over the West Seattle Bridge to Salty’s on Alki Beach for dinner.

Salty’s was initially called Salty Pickerel’s & Angus McHereford’s around four decades ago, but, not surprisingly, guests shortened it and the new name stuck. This waterfront seafood restaurant has incredible views of the Seattle skyline and Elliott Bay. Inside, the lights were low, the linens crisp. We decided to split the calamari to start, and I chose the Smothered Rockfish with a glass of the 2018 Chateau Ste. Michelle Indian Wells Merlot, Columbia Valley.

in Uptown, Seattle’s oldest neighbourhood, it’s easy to walk everywhere. But most important, for this trip, it is located right across the street from Cajun-Creole bistro Toulouse Petit, somewhere I’d been aching to try. More on that in a bit.

I woke up refreshed and ready for the day. After a coffee, I left the hotel and set a course for Pike Place Market, wandering past the Seattle Centre’s International Fountain as it executed a water program synchronized to Beethoven’s 9th Symphony. I meandered to the market and spent a few hours taking in vendors’ local honey, cheeses, fruits, fish, leatherwares, earrings, etc. I got a hankering for fresh oysters. I came across Emmett Watson’s Oyster Bar, tucked away in Pike Place’s labyrinth. It opened in 1979 and was Seattle’s first oyster bar. The seating is small wooden booths painted dark blue with plastic white-and-blue checkered tablecloths. I went for a glass of house white and the Oyster Bar Special with two raw oysters, three peel-and-eat shrimp, and a cup of shrimp soup. The medium-sized oysters were slick and gorgeous, the shrimp fresh and tasty, and the spicy tomato base for the soup delish.

As I set to leave the market, a shop named Turkish Delight caught my eye. I entered. They offer traditional Turkish food like Chicken Borek, spiced chicken breast with fresh mushrooms and parsley in phyllo, Beef Doner Kebab Sandwich, and Cheese Pie with kasseri cheese with feta and parsley in whole wheat pastry. But what really drew my eye on the far left of the deli case were trays of fresh Turkish delight—with flavours like mango, rosewater, orange blossom water, and cinnamon. This family-run store used to order its Turkish delight until the father decided to make it himself. I bought a selection for a gift, along with a mango one for myself. It was soft, lightly flavoured, and delicate.

The calamari was fresh and tender, the batter light. It was a huge serving and came with house-pickled peppers and chipotle aioli. The Smothered Rockfish was crispy and pan-fried. It was covered with a rich, mildly spiced bay shrimp étouffée, a Louisiana stew with shrimp, onion, celery, red and green pepper, garlic, black pepper, and a simple roux for a lovely thick gravy. The seafood rested on a bed of chipotle garlic rice. The contrast in textures—the crispy, fresh, salty fish, the velvety gravy and the rice soaking it all up—made me lose the threads of our animated catch-up more than once. The merlot complemented this luscious comfort food. After dinner, he dropped me off at the MarQueen Hotel.

This was the second time I’d stayed at this historic hotel. It was built in 1918 as the Seattle Engineering School and retrained blacksmiths to work in the Ford Motor plant at the south end of Lake Union. Each spacious apartment-style room has a kitchenette. The whole vibe of the place is vintage, eclectic, and welcoming. Located

I had a few hours until my early dinner reservation so I popped into a cinema to watch the indie movie Return to Seoul. Afterwards, I went back to the hotel to change and headed across the street with a book, notebook, and pen and an appetite for indulgence at Toulouse Petit. Designed to reflect the French Quarter and New Orleans, the restaurant is lit with 250 votive candles every evening, casting warmth against the walls. The floor-to-ceiling windows, Gothic light fixtures, and candlelight are striking and welcoming. I’d perused the menu a few times, from anticipation and also because it’s a novel. I opted for their “best happy hour in Seattle” because of the extent of the offerings and the price point.

I started with the Toulouse Market Salad with haricots verts, asparagus, artichokes, golden beets, Niçoise olives, heirloom tomatoes, fine herbs, and champagne vinaigrette. It was fantastic and has become my go-to picnic salad— fresh, stunning, delicious. Next, I ordered the Dungeness crab and fried green tomatoes in a tarragon chive ravigote (a classic, slightly acidic French sauce). The crab was served over the crispy cornmeal-fried tomatoes—it was exquisite, one of those plates you are tempted to inhale, but I sat with it for a while with a tasty glass of 2018 Cabernet Franc Domaines Des Ormes Saumur.

The Jumbo Wild “Barbecued Shrimp” New Orleans with creamy grits, paprika, cayenne, garlic, and lager was next. The shrimp were plump, roasted and spicy. They looked like prawns. The smooth texture of the grits (a creamy side dish

made with whole dried white kernels of dent corn) was a comforting adjunct to the seafood’s heat and succulence.

The place was hopping and it was only 4:30. (Their happy hours are 3:30 – 6:00 p.m. and 10:00 – 11:30 p.m.) Finally, I ordered the Seafood Gumbo with Pacific rockfish, Patagonian prawns, andouille, and crawfish. It was packed with fresh seafood and nourishing. I only managed a few spoonfuls because I was full (quelle surprise).

I bid farewell to Toulouse Petit and went for a walk, buzzing from the tremendous freedom and beauty of a deeply satisfying weekend away.

Up early, I headed back to the Clipper with a new second-hand book, a ring, some Turkish delight, and a leather dice scroll for my son. Reclining, once again, in my seat, I felt the peace of leaving life in Victoria for a reboot and another culinary caper. A perfect trip, I thought to myself. Then they announced “orcas portside,” and that made it even better. Thanks, Seattle. See you again soon.

GILLIE EASDON

Sweet Endings Sweet Endings

Cake

¾ cup white sugar

¼ cup butter, softened

1 egg

2 tsp lemon zest

1½ cups flour

2 tsp baking powder

½ tsp salt

½ cup milk

1½ – 2 cups fresh berries (see note)

1 Tbsp flour (to toss berries in)

Preheat oven to 350° F. Grease an 8-inch-square pan.

Cake: Using a stand or hand mixer, cream together sugar, butter, egg, and lemon zest until fluffy.

In a separate bowl, combine flour, baking powder, and salt.

Add dry ingredients to creamed mixture, alternating with the milk, mixing until just combined.

BUCKLE UP

This Berry Buckle Cake uses up just-past-perfection berries in an easy and delicious way.

Summer, to me, means it’s time to gorge on one of my favourite things—fresh berries. Breakfasting on a bowl of raspberries and a piece of toast. Berries for dessert, berries with yogurt, or just eaten right from the basket. Making shortcakes, crisps, cobblers, and buckle cake are all part of the pleasure.

This cake is versatile; it is a quick breakfast with coffee or tea, a tasty snack, or dessert served with sweet, whipped cream or ice cream. It’s fast and easy to make, and the ingredients are always in my kitchen. You can use one kind of berry, or any combination of strawberries (cut into large chunks), blueberries,

raspberries, or blackberries. If you’re lucky to have a few remaining rhubarb stalks in the garden, it is also great in this cake (slice stalks into small pieces, approximately ¼ inch thick).

Berry Buckle Cake

Serves 9

Topping

¼ cup + 1 Tbsp butter, cold

¼ cup brown sugar

¼ cup white sugar

⅓ cup flour

½ tsp cinnamon

In a separate bowl, lightly toss the berries in the flour. (You can skip this step for berries other than blueberries if you wish.)

Gently fold in the berries until just distributed so as not to break them apart. Put batter (it will be thick) into the prepared pan and spread evenly.

Topping: Cut butter for topping into cubes. Mix dry topping ingredients in a bowl and add butter. Cut or rub in the butter using a pastry cutter, two knives, or your fingertips until mixture is crumbly.

Sprinkle topping mixture evenly over batter. Bake 40–45 minutes until a toothpick inserted into the centre comes out clean. Cool on a wire rack, cut into squares, and enjoy.

NOTE: When using a mix of berries, I tend to add more berries, up to 2 cups. When using just blueberries, I find 1½ cups is enough.

JACQUELINE DOWNEY

CYNTHIA ANNETT-HYNES