Eat This! Charleston | FALL 2012

CHARLESTON

Charleston’s Premier Culinary Magazine

Ah, Sweet September

Let Oyster Season Begin in the Lowcountry

Nate Thurston

Playing with Fire Tap in at

Bowens Island Dine or Dash

Mexican Standoff

FALL 2012 | eatthischarleston.com

SUSHI BAR & GRILL

Chefs from New York’s Finest Sushi Restaurants

Come join us for our

3-year anniversary Celebration September 15

all you Can Eat Sushi & Drinks only $75 per person*

DAILY SPECIALS Mon Single Lady 1/2 Price on house Wine, house Champagne & house hot Sake TuES haPPY hour aLL nIGhT WED 1/2 Price Bottle Wine night ThurS $15 Pitchers of Margarita FrI $5 Martini SaT $5 Martini SaT & Sun $10 Mimosas & BrunCh $5 Bloody Marys Sun $2 off Sappora

restaurant Week Special

FOOTBALL SPECIAL Mon,Thur $10 Domestic Buckets of Beer SaT & Sun during football games

September 5-16

3-course meal only $20 per person* *Call for details and reser vations.

644Q Long Point Rd., Mt. Pleasant Inside the Belle Hall Shopping Center Across from Brixx

843-856-5798 • fujisushibarandgrill.com M-Th 11am - 10 pm • Fri 11am - 11 pm • Sat 12 - 11 pm • Sun 12 - 10 pm

Happ Houry

7 Day saw $2 A eek 4:30 $2 off ll Domest - 6:30 pm ic Bee Japan rs es $3 We e Beer & W ll Drin ine k 1/2 o ff Sak s e

Fuji Sushi Mount Pleasant

DRI V WINE-THRU

DOW

EreEats R Fog T

e) has urc p th (wi

D

MT. PLEASANT

CHARLESTON

N O PO W EN

Cappuccino Blasts Shakes Sundaes Cones Cups Smoothies Soft Serve

280 West Coleman Blvd.

1798 Ashley River Rd. (one block from Ravenel Bridge) (next to Skatell’s off Sam Rittenburg) 843-881-6741 843-225-3131 Hours: Mon-Sat 10-10 Open Late Sunday 12-10

All Day Every Day

Mini Parfait Only $ 2.00

Catering for your office or Special Event Plenty of Patio & Outside Seating

Welcome to our famiglia, Bon Appetito!

From Italian to English, “Bricco Bracco” translates to “This and That.”

“This”

menu is derived from many years of Italian cooking and building layers of flavor combinations.

“That” brings

a taste of Italy to your plate.

Visit briccobracco.net to view our new menu.

Buy one of our Specialty Entrees and get the second at half price.

Dine-in only. Not valid with any other offer promotion or discount.

Mozzarella Bar, soups, salads, or pizza not included. No cash value.

Limit 1 per table per visit. Must present coupon. Valid at Bricco Bracco, 1161 Basketweave Dr., Mt. Pleasant, SC. Expires 11/1/12

843.416.8290 • briccobracco.net 1161 Basketweave Drive, Mt. Pleasant

Behind Harris Teeter on Hwy. 17 & Six Mile.

Open 7 days a week. 11am until.

Happy Hour 4-7 Mon. - Sat. (bar only). fall 2012 | 1

From the

Editor It is not just quality and local ingredients that make great food in the Lowcountry — it is the people.

Our mission at Eat This! has been to highlight

We also invite you to kick back on your

those very people that make Charleston

porch with a high-ball glass of Virgil

such a fascinating foodie destination. I

Kaine Ginger-infused Bourbon as you

think it is safe to say that great food is not

watch the light outside begin to change

indigenous to our town alone. Food is a

and leaves begin to fall. Let our Nates

celebrated aspect of popular culture, no

capture your hearts in our Chef and

longer exclusive to the metropolitan.

Server Spotlights. Tap into your appre-

As the remnants of summer linger, it is

ciation for local craft beer out at Bowens

time for us to celebrate the “R” months.

Island, enjoy a little wine in reverse, and

In this issue, Eat This! pays homage to an

dive into some Mexican fare whether it

oyster farmer and his craft, Jeff Spahr of

be North or South of the Ravenel. We are

Bulls Bay and the harvested, delicious bi-

dishing out the goods this fall — can I get

valve mollusk. I admit that I never truly paid

an AMEN (Street) to that?

attention to the “R” month rule. Until this is-

And don’t forget, ‘tis festival time. Be

sue, I thought it to be urban legend of some

sure to check out Southern Ground as

sex-crazed oyster-lover ending up in the

Zac Brown and friends return with South

ER. The “D” in my name must clearly stand

Eastern Chefs and a musical line-up that

for Danger for each July, I return to my

is sure to make you sing for your supper

hometown of Pensacola Beach and belly-

as well as Taste of Charleston, Music to

up to the bar at Peg Leg Pete’s. I order a few

Your Mouth and Make a Wish Founda-

dozen on the half shell, from the shallow

tion’s Wine, Brew & Wishes Too.

oyster paradise of Apalachicola Bay and wash ‘em down with a Bushwacker. Spahr may not approve but then again, he does not know that they use Barcardi 151 in that

Dee Lambert

cocktail. (If that proof cannot kill any potential

Editor

bacteria, I do not know what will).

2 | Eat This! Charleston

Contents

In This Issue

30 Reader Recipe Lemon Thyme Vodka Three-Way K. Culver of Mount Pleasant 32 Chef Recipe Cumin Scented Confit Lamb Belly Josh Keller of Two Boroughs Larder 36 Dining Map 40 Restaurant Directory 42 Events Culinary Happenings in the Lowcountry 44 Foodie Quiz

Features

6

From the Cellar Movia “Puro” Rose A Disgorgement Delight from the Hills of Slovenia

8

From the Tap Hidden Beer Behemoth Bowens Island Restaurant

10 Restaurant Spotlight Raising the (Raw) Bar Amen Street makes the oyster their world 14 Chef Spotlight When Opportunity Knocks Nathan Thurston of Stars 16 Server Spotlight One is Not Like the Others Nate Alton of Pearlz 18 Bartender Spotlight Virgil Kaine - Bourbon, the All-Inclusive Version Jake Johnson & David Szlam 21 Follow This!

Chasing Aphrodite Harvesting Nature’s Aphrodisiacs in Bull’s Bay 26 Dine or Dash A Tale of Two Cities Santi’s 28 Do This!

Southern Ground Music & Food Festival Wine, Brew & Wishes Too!

Cover Photo by Stacy Howell Jeff Spahr on Bulls Bay fall 2012 | 3

CHARLE

STON

Editor

Dee Lambert dee@eatthischarleston.com

Art Director

Craig McLaughlin craig@eatthischarleston.com

Photography

Stacy Howell stacy@eatthischarleston.com

Contributors

Patrick Graham Antonia M. Krenza Lauren Levine Timmons Pettigrew Laney Roberts Chris West

Beautiful Ocean View Dining

Online Contributors

serVIng LunCH & dInner Tuesday - Saturday

Advertising

Indoor & outdoor seatIng

sundaY BrunCH 10:30 am - 2 pm Featuring Award Winning Bloody Mary’s 1/2 PrICe BottLes of WIne Tuesday, Wednesday & Thursday 5:30 - 8 pm

1130 Ocean Blvd.

Front Beach, Isle of Palms 843-886-6772 www.huckslowcountrytable.com 4 | Eat This! Charleston

Kathleen Curry Patrick Graham Lauren Levine Meg Pitts

Nick Mead nick@eatthischarleston.com Heidi Hein heidi@eatthischarleston.com

Publisher

Nick Mead nick@eatthischarleston.com Eat This Now, LLC 1121 Park West Blvd Suite B #108 Mount Pleasant, SC 29466 (843) 225-0470

eatthischarleston.com

AUTHENTIC ITALIAN RISTORANTE Five Star Dining at Three Star Prices.

Enjoy Our Conversation Bar where you can engage in quiet conversation without interruption.

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK Monday: 11 am - 2 pm Tuesday-Sunday: 11 am - 9 pm

717 Old Trolley Road | Summerville 843.873.9339 | tomatoessummerville.com |

There’s MORE in your

Air Duct Cleaning

AIR DUCTS than just AIR …

Electrical Installation / Repair

HVAC Installation / Repair

such as DUST, DIRT and other

Plumbing Installation / Repair

HARMFUL CONTAMINANTS.

Crawlspace Encapsulation

Gas Line Installation

Mention this ad for FREE video inspection

843.425.9858

CarolinaClimateMasters.com

HEALTH BENEFITS FROM DUCT CLEANING. Heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) systems have been shown to act as a collection source for a variety of contaminants that have the potential to affect health, such as dust mites, mold, fungi, bacteria, dust particles and pet dander.

The removal of such contaminants from your HVAC system and home should be considered as one component in an overall plan to improve your indoor air quality.

Heating

|

Cooling

|

Refrigeration

|

IAQ

|

Plumbing

|

Electrical

|

Crawlspace Encapsulation

|

Air Duct Cleaning

|

Gas Line Installation

fall 2012 | 5

FROM THE CELLAR

Movia “Puro” Rose A Disgorgement Delight from the Hills of Slovenia

By Lauren Levine

H

e

placed

the

Slowly, the yeast cells begin to die and cre-

my

ate a cloudy looking wine. The tedious ac-

hands very gen-

tion of riddling takes place, slowly turning

tly upside down.

the bottle into an upside down position, pre-

“Handle this with

paring it for disgorgement to remove these

wine

into

care. Do not turn it right side up

expired yeast cells.

and do not let it get warm.” I took

The event that was about to happen is not a

the dark, heavy bottle from him

common one that consumers experience. Ben

and rushed this wine directly to

Arnold Beverage Company carries Movia’s

the cellar. I checked on it every

undisgorged sparkling wine, along with the

day until the day of it’s fate, the

outstanding tasting line-up for the Next Door/

day of it’s disgorgement.

Red Drum wine dinner. With only two thousand

Sparkling wine goes through quite a ride

bottles produced, it is extremely difficult to get

before landing in our hands. Beginning as

your hands on this sparkling wine.

still wine, the juice is bottled and a small

Movia “Puro” Rose 2004 hails from Slo-

dose of sugar, wine and yeast is poured

venia, right along route E55. This very route

into the still wine, initiating the secondary

also glides through Italy and Austria as well.

fermentation. These yeast cells convert the

The man who placed this wine into my hands

sugar into alcohol, causing carbonation.

upside down was John Julius. John, along with Jason Freeman, would be exposing this

Check it out!

wine post disgorgement.

Next Door | 843.881.8817

aroused excitement with an all-star 8-wine

819 Coleman Boulevard | Mount Pleasant | SC

line-up. The lyrics from Scenes from an

Wine tasting dinners held the first Monday of each

Italian Restaurant play in my mind, four

month. Call for reservations.

bottles of red and four bottles of white. The

6 | Eat This! Charleston

The Next Door/Red Drum wine dinner

Stadt Krems 2010 Gruner Veltliner from

water and ice. In one quick motion, the cork

Kremstal, Austria shone brightly, paired

was popped. Pieces of water jumped out

with Beusoleil oysters, a delicate gruner

towards the dining room and the tub wa-

veltliner granita iced concoction. The most

ter transformed into a light orange color.

decadent red wine, Cottanera Fatigione

The bottle finally turned upright just as an-

2006 Nerello Mascalese from Sicily was

other bottle flew open on the opposite side

rich and dense, giving off elegant mineral,

of the event. Glasses were passed of this

red fruits, raspberry and blueberry. The

pale salmon/light orange colored unusual

wine complimented the roasted pork loin

sparkling and toasted between each other

with ricotta salata in such a way that the

as guests tasted their first undisgorged

flavors melted in your mouth.

wine, filled with hints of apple cider, nut-

Just as dessert was coming to a close, a

meg, raspberries and cinnamon. I picked

small spotlight lit up the grand finale … the

up two glasses myself and headed towards

disgorgement of Movia “Puro” Rose 2004

the kitchen as Chef de Cuisine Nathan Hood

from Slovenia. The room came to a silent

was walking out. I handed him a glass. We

halt as cameras and phones emerged to

smiled as our glasses touched each other,

turn Next Door into a concert of sorts. Ev-

anticipating the first Monday of the next

ery eye was set on the always upside down

month, excited about the upcoming Next

bottle, now held under a clear tub filled with

Door/Red Drum wine dinner.

GET FIRED UP with our flavor enhancing wood fired pizzas

Open 7 days a week 11-11

www.brixxpizza.com

|

|

656 Long Point Rd. Mt. Pleasant 843.971.2120 fall 2012 | 7

from the tap

Bowens Island Restaurant

Hidden Beer

Behemoth

By Timmons Pettigrew

B

owens Island Restaurant

owner Robert Barber would rebuild. The

should need no introduction.

tragedy turned into opportunity, as the new

The seafood landmark, situ-

Bowens Island Restaurant would have more

ated on a tiny namesake is-

room, including room for an eight-tap draft

land near Folly Beach, has

system and a ten-by-ten beer cooler at

been in “top” lists of national magazines,

the bar. They carried the typical American

profiled on national television, and even

light lager at first, but soon our local brew-

earned itself a James Beard American

ing culture was growing all around them.

Classic Award. Most people equate the joint

Robert, being a soul truly dedicated to the

with heaping plates of deliciously prepared,

area, formed relationships with our brewers

local seafood. Their oysters are their real

over time, perhaps culminating in Holy City

claim to fame, harvested by hand from their

Brewing using his oysters for their Bowens

surrounding waters for decades. Unfortu-

Island Oyster Stout last fall.

nately, the bar selection that goes along with a menu like theirs is often lacking at best.

A few months ago, Robert doubled down on his taps, bringing his count up to sixteen.

Check your expectations at the dock, be-

In the meantime, they installed a huge re-

cause Bowens Island sports the Charleston

frigeration unit, mainly for housing their

area’s best local tap selection.

Six years ago, the original restaurant tragically burned down. After a rough sixty years in business, there was no question that

8 | Eat This Charleston!

oysters. The BMC (Bud, Miller, and Coors)

beer-centric bars don’t have that kind of lo-

bottles were moved into the unit too, al-

cal coverage.

lowing them to dedicate the beer cooler to

Don’t expect style-specific, beer-clean

kegs. Since it wasn’t being opened at the

glassware, or anything fancy for that matter.

bar constantly, the draft selection could be

Your pint is going in a plastic cup, and you’re

kept there at a consistent temperature, and

going to like it. That goes with the territory,

smaller kegs could be changed out more

however. In a place that lets you write on the

easily. Couple that new system with Robert’s

walls, you should be okay with suspending

love of all things local, and you get the sur-

a few standards. The incredible view on the

prisingly excellent selection they have today.

back deck, and of course the food, should

Though I’d heard of their local focus, on

more than make up for any misgivings.

one recent visit I found all sixteen taps dedi-

Local is certainly not everything when

cated to local beer, equally spread amongst

it comes to beer. But in a budding brewing

our four breweries. Sixteen simultaneous

culture like Charleston’s, dedication to the

local taps during the regular course of busi-

cause is a fun, refreshing thing to

ness is, without a doubt, the best local selec-

run into, especially in unexpect-

tion in these parts. Even our forty-odd-tap,

ed places.

Timmons Pettigrew is the author of Charleston Beer: A High-Gravity History of Lowcountry Brewing, and co-founder of CHSBeer.org, an extensive online resource for local beer, with Chrys Rynearson, his book’s photographer.

Follow him on Twitter @CHSBeer. fall 2012 | 9

RESTAURANT spotlight

Raising the

(Raw) Bar Amen Street makes the oyster their world

by Patrick Graham

S

ometimes unexpected long

was indeed the case at Amen Street on

rains give restaurants fits,

East Bay Street the day I came to visit.

because precipitation doesn’t

General Manager Don Goodemote was

lend itself the kind of pre-

behind the bar, helping out as managers

dictability that management

do in a pinch, mixing drinks and expedit-

craves. Showers can bring mad rushes on

ing orders. Ah, the bar. The lovely white

a lazy Tuesday afternoon, bringing in the

marble bar. I digress. Chef Stephen Ol-

dampened masses that ordinarily would

lard joined Goodemote to chat about the

wander the streets of our fair city, or they

mission of Amen Street, a mission that

can kill off a seemingly steady lunch shift

is laden with the fruits of the sea, and in

free of surprises, turning a dining room

particular, the oyster. There were three

into a ghost town.

dozen points of origin on the menu, from

The former of the preceding sentence

Alabama Gulf waters to Cape Spear in New Brunswick. Chincoteague, Virginia

Amen Street 205 East Bay Street | Charleston SC (843) 853-8600 | amenstreet.com

and Fanny Bay, British Columbia are also represented, and based on availability and freshness, a handful of these choices made up the Huitres du Jour. This was looking suspiciously like a wine list. I

10 | Eat This! Charleston

asked Chef Ollard if this was on purpose.

“We treat it like wine. Each oyster has a terroir (native locale) as each wine does. We let people sample oysters like they would sample

Shop local.

Save local.

wine…the oyster list that we carry, most people have not tried these oysters.”

Curious patrons are in for an education as the list changes. Goodemote noted that, as with wine, the region where an oyster is harvested has a lot to do with its characteristics.

“A lot of [customers] come in and just think an oyster is an oyster is an oyster, as something from northern Virginia is going to be different from southern Virginia, even something from Georgetown (SC) is going to be different from the Folly River.”

Could wines and oysters be paired? “Oh, I think that could certainly happen,” said Ollard.

“Other than the South (re: the Gulf oysters), the wine-producing regions are oyster-producing regions; in Oregon, some are produced in California, and Washington, so, yeah, you could pair wines and oysters from the same regions… some of the oysters have such complexity that not only can the wine enhance the oysters, but the oysters can enhance the wine.”

Back to the bar aspect. If the oysters provide the “raw” in raw bar, the seemingly endless white marble and wooden platform is but one facet of the essence of the establishment that puts the “bar” in raw bar. There is no shortage of televisions, a full complement of liquors (including the locally produced Virgil Kaine gingerinfused bourbon) and craft beers are available, and an uncompromisingly casual feel to the dining room validated my hypothesis that a dozen oysters on a bed of snowy ice had supplanted

And support local charities, too!

A portion of the proceeds from each iShopLocalAndSave card benefit local charities.

Doing good just got a whole lot easier.

the role that a dozen chicken wings would play at any sports bar on the peninsula.

Given its address on East Bay Street, the veritable epicenter of Charleston cuisine, I asked

Reserve your savings card today!

iShopLocalAndSave.com

Ollard about the execution of a possible dualfall 2012 | 11

RESTAURANT spotlight

Do you know of a great restaurant?

Email your suggestion to restaurantspotlight@ eatthischarleston.com

12 | Eat This Charleston!

ity of Amen Street’s plan: can you keep up

much … it’s just fresh.”

with the Joneses in the immediate vicinity while carving out a niche of your own?

Simplicity like that will get you everywhere. Then this question: is it more im-

“I think we’re doing both…seafood is

portant to reinvent the seared red snapper

something that is a staple in Charleston

or black grouper dish in a unique fashion,

anyway, and that’s what we do, so we

or would you rather use a unique fish that

have to…on not just a quarterly, monthly,

few have heard of (today it was orange

yearly, but on a daily basis, not just keep

marlin) to drive the originality of the menu?

up, but pass them and raise the bar, and

As expected, Ollard approached the fork in

make them keep up with us.”

the road, and took the fork:

With the surging interest in the “farm-

“It’s both. I personally get more excited

to-table” concept around Charleston’s

about a fish I’ve never heard of before. [Or-

kitchens, a parallel was drawn between

ange marlin] is a fish I had never heard of

farm-to-table and Ollard’s preference for

until a few years ago, and now I can’t get

his restaurant, only the key words there

enough of it … I’m also very classic in tech-

were “sustainable” and “fresh”.

nique and my mindset, and there are staples

“We are a fish and raw bar — we want

that when people come to Charleston, they

the fish to shine, we want the oysters to

want … a menu that will stay inside the box.”

shine. I don’t adulterate the food that

Amen, indeed.

A Chicago Fan’s

home away from home …

Wednesday

$10

burger & pint special COLDEST BEER

IN TOWN 13 drafts • 41 botles • 8 cans

Live

Music

Thursday Trivia

Serving Full Lunch & Dinner Menu ‘til 1AM

215 E Bay Street • Downtown

(843) 793-4653 • macsplacecharleston.com fall 2012 | 13

chef spotlight

When Opportunity

Knocks

by Laney Roberts

Check him out @ Stars Restaurant Grill Room & Rooftop Bar 495 King Street | Downtown 843.577.0100 | starsrestaurant.com Opening August 2012 To be a chef is to court creativity. It is to imagine a marriage of flavors and textures and then produce it on a plate. Success is dependent upon the preferences and palates of their guests. It is a daunting and yet welcoming challenge that chefs face everyday. There are chefs that are happy to take an existing menu and add their own nuances of taste and quality. There are also chefs that desire to create their own menus, to take a concept from scratch and make it their own. This is an opportunity that doesn’t present itself as often as some chefs may desire. Yet, when it does, a chef’s whole world can change …

14 | Eat This! Charleston

Subject: Nathan Thurston Executive Chef - Stars Restaurant Grill Room and Rooftop Bar Origins: Greensboro, NC Education: Johnson & Wales University, Business Culinary Arts. Last class to graduate at Charleston campus.

(gotta ask) Why Leave Such a Prestigious Position? Nate felt an

Evolution: At 15 Nate took a restaurant

isolation on Kiawah. Though the job was

job washing dishes. He noticed that the

amazing, there was a disconnect from

cooks always seemed to be having more

the energy and dynamic among farmers

fun, so decided to give cooking a try. By

and chefs in the downtown scene.

18, Nate was the Sous Chef at Josephines

Opportunity knocked, Nate answered,

in Marion, NC. It was at that point that

and Keith Jones and partners entered

he decided to go to culinary school.

with an interesting concept that is Stars.

The journey that followed includes The Biltmore Estate (Asheville, NC), The White

What the Future Holds: Live fire

Horse Inn (Madison, WI), The Vineyards

kitchen. In greater Charleston, only Heart

(Winston-Salem, NC), Fish (Charleston, SC)

Wood Fire Kitchen on James Island has

and The Atlantic Room (Kiawah Island, SC).

explored the concept‘s potentials, Now,

His last position was the Executive Chef of

after the 20 th draft of their menu, Nate

The Ocean Room, a member of the culinary

feels that he and his staff have finely

team since the opening of The Sanctuary

honed the dishes that will showcase this

(Kiawah Island, SC).

trending restaurant concept. He is ready to bring the “live fire” kitchen to new

Professional Sideline: Nate

levels on Upper King. Incorporating local,

teaches at the Arts Institute of

quality ingredients with a “from scratch”

Charleston. Classes have ranged from

culinary discipline, he is sure to succeed.

Regional Cuisines such as European and Southern American to professional

Personal Philosophy: Nate feels that

Competition classes. Nates feels

a kitchen functions at its highest level when

teaching is an organic process that

there is shared learning and ideas. To develop

occurs both in the classroom and in any

and educate your staff while fostering mutual

successful kitchen.

respect is to nurture potential talents and to create an environment that engenders loyalty

Passionate Distractions: Nate

with a sense of ownership. Nate is well on

loves hanging with his two gorgeous

his way toward creating that collaborative

Weimaraners, tinkering with his Jeep CJ7

kitchen at Stars Grill Room and you can bet

and as all chefs, exploring the dining scene

that Charleston will be tasting the difference

in Charleston.

that a philosophy can make. fall 2012 | 15

server spotlight

SUBJECT: Nate Alton- Master Shucker Oyster Sommelier at Pearlz (Downtown) Origins: Rhode Island

One is not like

the Others

by Antonia M. Krenza & Laney Roberts

Education: College of Charleston Business Administration F&B Evolution: Although Nate worked briefly in a hospital cafeteria and as a bus boy

Diversity is what makes the F&B industry so

at Joe’s Crab Shack in his youth, it was working

amazing, from fast food to fine dining, raw

on a farm that brought him fully into the

sashimi to a fish fry; the possibilities are endless.

culinary industry. An oyster farm, that is. After

These culinary complexities and dining styles have forced the server to evolve and diversify

his stint at CofC, he returned to Rhode Island in need of a job. He started as a box packer at the largest shellfish company in the United

as well. No longer is a server simply an order

States- American Mussel. In three years time,

taker; he or she is also a table side entertainer

he moved up the ranks to Quality Assurance

and an educator. As the patrons’ food and wine

Manager and discovered his life passion-

knowledge have matured, so has their demand for more inspired and specialized service.

Therefore, we, as a public have brought a whole new cadre of “servers” into the limelight.

the oyster. It was Charleston’s wild oyster population, along with the city’s fascinating cultural and historical connection with these succulent aphrodisiacs, that brought him back to the Lowcountry and landed him at Pearlz.

That was 7 years ago!

16 | Eat This Charleston!

Favorite Oyster: “Belon”- European flat oyster typically found in France, England, &

ou fi y ur o like rgers, bu love ’ll cos u o y r ta ou

Ireland. In the US, there is a single spot in Maine, a unique micro-aquaculture, in which this oyster varietal is cultivated. The “Belon” possesses a bright metallic taste with a long finish that at first surprises and then addicts.

Favorite Culinary Tome: “Sex, Death and Oysters” by Robb Walsh

killer grassfed beef craft beers & jumbo cocktails cool outdoor patios environmentally conscience charleston’s BEST sunday brunch

Biggest Shucker Nightmare: Carpal Tunnel. Shucking hundreds of dozens of oysters each week can take its toll.

West Ashley

Nate’s Holy Trinity: Oysters/Guiness/Pork

828 Savannah Hwy 843.377.1300

Mt Pleasant

Pearlz Signature Cocktail: Oyster Shooter trianglecharandbar.com

- Pearlz Cracked Pepper Vodka, Housemade

1440 Ben Sawyer Blvd 843.606.2900

Cocktail Sauce, Freshly Shucked Oyster.

Passionate Distractions: Red Sox, Patriots, Bruins, Celtics. Dining at Wild Olive, FIG, The Macintosh and Heart Woodfire Kitchen.

What the Future Holds: Aquaculture.

Nate and friends are cultivating oysters on Folly Beach creating what they hope to be one of Charleston’s first producing oyster farms.

Oh and attending the penultimate oyster shucking contest in Ireland, someday!

Philosophy: “Merrior”. Nate approaches oysters like sommeliers approach wine - with an understanding that “place” (terroir) lends uniqueness to individual species. He is part of an international brethren of shuckers who pride themselves on expert knowledge and amazing speed. He wants everyone to know that their palate can travel the world without ever leaving their seats. With the right oysters and a skilled shucker, no passport is required.

THE Mt. Pleasant Wine Bar offering more than 100 incredible wines, 25+ wines by the glass, craft beer selection, 13 artisan cheeses, artisan Charcuterie & 15 gourmet chocolates Happy Hour

Mon-Fri, 4-7 pm 4 Glasses of House Red or White Wine $ 3 Craft Beers $ 2 off Cheese Du Jour

$

Live Music See our website for details

Wine Tastings

Held the 1st & 3rd Wednesday & last Saturday of each month, 5-7 pm

uncorkedwine.net

Belle Hall Shopping Center 664-G Long Point Rd • Mt. Pleasant Follow us on & for Weekly Features M-W 4-11pm • THR-SAT 4pm-12am

fall 2012 | 17

bartender spotlight

Virgil Kaine

Bourbon, the All-Inclusive Version

by Chris West

I

f simple desire is the mother of in-

we tried it and tasted it with a friend and

vention, then all Jake Johnson and

we said: ‘We may be on to something

David Szlam wanted was a good,

here’ so we just went with it.”

stiff drink. Harkening back to the

The small-time, stovetop operation soon

nights they would wind down after

became full force when the pair brought

a long shift on the line, the former chefs

on third partner Ben Capa and fortuitously

set out to revisit their college love of a

met with Terressentia, a local spirit making

simple bourbon and ginger ale. And out of

and bottling company and arranged con-

that simple desire, Virgil Kaine was born.

tract distilling through them. Batches of

“We’ve been friends for about 15

two-year old, “baby bourbon” are sourced

years,” Jake said. “I was Dave’s sous chef

from Kentucky and infused with local

and we just started thinking about ways to

John’s Island ginger and other recipe ingre-

get ourselves out of the restaurant busi-

dients. Then the infused spirit is “treated”

ness. We always drank Makers [Mark]

using Terresentia’s patented technology,

and ginger in college, it was sort of our

which not only removes impurities (in the

drink. So we started thinking about ways

case of bourbon, the tannins imparted from

we could replicate that, but in a bottle.”

barrel-aging) from the liquor but also adds

Rooting the product in the South, the

an aged taste to the final product.

pair chose lyrics from The Band song

The whiskey is a deep brown, much the

“The Night They Drove Old Dixie Down” to

color of a tawny port. The infused ginger

give the bourbon a name. In the song, Vir-

hits the nose immediately and tames any

gil Cane was a railroad conductor tasked

boozy aroma from the whiskey. The sweet

with supplying Civil War troops with sup-

bourbon and the natural ginger add a

plies. Taking a bit of historical liberty,

sweet flavor profile to the whiskey, but it

Johnson and Szlam’s “Kaine” smuggled

doesn’t sip cloyingly sweet. Think more

his homemade hooch to thirsty troops via

a complement to the bourbon’s natural

his train line.

sugar content. The straight shot does

The initial batches of the ginger-in-

drink more like a mixed drink simply over

fused whiskey were cooked on Dave’s

ice and I’ve found that is arguably the best

stovetop. “Dave is the mastermind be-

way to enjoy it. As the ice begins to melt, it

hind the recipe,” Jake said. “He literally

continues to mellow into a smooth sipper.

took some bourbon and infused it with all

Virgil Kaine started a year ago and this

these flavors. Later he called me over,

past January saw the full product launch

18 | Eat This Charleston!

through local distributors, Ben Arnold. But the fledgling company is by no means think-

For more information visit www.virgilkaine.com

ing of keeping it only local. “We are moving into Georgia next, Tennessee and then probably North Carolina,” he said. “We’re thinking the southeast and SEC football. A lot of college kids drink bourbon and ginger ale so we’re trying to push towards that.”

While Johnson and Szlam are continuing to push Virgil Kaine into the local market, they aren’t putting all their eggs in one basket either. “We’re going to launch a few new products this coming year, maybe not a bourbon but different brands,” Johnson said. “But I can’t really talk about them because they are just in the development stages right now. But we certainly want to get more products out into the market.”

CHARLES

TON

fall 2012 | 19

American Cuisine with an Asian Influence Fresh | Local | Seasonal Executive Chef | Rob Knox

MondAy – FRIdAy HAppy HouR 4-6:30 pM

TuESdAy vISIT uS on FACEbooK® FoR WInE TASTIng SpECIALS

WEdnESdAy HALF pRICE WInE!

THuRSdAy LIvE MuSIC 6-9 pM

CATERIng LET uS CATER youR nExT EvEnT oR pARTy

915 HOUSTON NORTHCUTT BLVD. | MT. PLEASANT | 843-606-2616 | www.eurasiasc.com IN THE CORNER NExT TO WHOLE FOODS

Happy Hour 4-8 M-F Monday - 50 cent wings Taco Tuesday- $2 tacos all day Wednesday- $2 sliders Thursday - Buy 1 appetizer, get 1 free Friday - Half price burgers

213 B East Bay Street | 843-297-8704 | www.thebrickcharleston.com 20 | Eat This! Charleston

follow this!

Chasing Aphrodite

Harvesting Nature’s Aphrodisiacs in Bull’s Bay

by Antonia M. Krenza & Laney Roberts

P

erhaps the myth of the oyster arose from the sea with the birth of Aphrodite, the goddess of love, beauty and sexual rapture. The goddess was said to have possessed the ad-

miration of both gods and mortals. Her image has been immortalized in paintings, poetry and stone - most famously at the hand of Botticelli in the depiction of her birth, delivered from the waves upon a cockle shell. It is said that Aphrodite, also known as Venus in Roman mythology, held certain animals sacred, among them shellfish - mussels, clams and oysters.

follow this!

Somehow it was the oyster, not the clam

an oysterman.

or mussel, that took on the persona of the

Jeff Spahr was not always headed to the

goddess. Oysters are a food of seduction.

sea. He chose to major in Business Admin-

Actually, they are the cliché of all culinary

istration and soon after graduation moved

aphrodisiacs. The myth of Aphrodite may

into a marketing position with AT&T. It was

have lost its power through the centuries,

a position in which he excelled. There were

but her sacred progeny has not. Whether it

promotions and ever increasing salaries.

be Apalachicola oysters, Malpeques, Blue

Jeff married his childhood sweetheart,

Points, Kumamotos, Olympias, or Belons,

Carrie. Success courted him. Though he

their briny promise of passion and flavor

was happy, there was something missing.

still tempts discerning diners to the plate,

Passion and profit are rarely good bedfel-

and lures the more ambitious men and

lows. In the halls of corporate America,

women into the sea.

Jeff was smelling the briny sea air and lis-

Jeff Spahr is a devotee of Aphrodite. He

tening to the wind whisper through the sea

probably wouldn’t call himself that, but he

grass. It was not long before his heart led

“I do not weep at the world. I am too busy sharpening my oyster knife.” Zora Neale Hurston is. As he works his lease on Bull’s Bay, he

him back to Bull’s Bay.

is helping to preserve a natural sanctu-

So what makes Bull’s Bay oysters so

ary for her sacred animals. Jeff is one of

unique? Writer Antonia Krenza, Photogra-

many local oyster harvester operating in

pher Stacy Howell and I went out on the bay

the coastal Carolina waters. He has grown

with Jeff Spahr in early June. Under his tu-

his business over the years from one boat

telage, we began to understand the special

to two and from a solo enterprise to a team

nature of this body of water. The bay itself

of four. Still, this past season, he honestly

stretches from Awendaw, SC to McClel-

admits, is the first to have seen a real mar-

lanville, SC and, though large, is still very

gin of profit. It is a fact that he is proud of

shallow. It is completely open to the ocean

and one that validates his choice to become

creating a perfect habitat for oysters. The

22 | Eat This Charleston!

incoming tides flush the bay and surround-

winter oysters taste better than summer

ing creeks with high salinity waters and

oysters. In late spring with warmer water

outgoing tides purge the bay of low salinity

temperatures, oysters begin to lose their

rainwater and runoff. To the oyster, a sed-

sweetness and become more fishy. It is a

entary creature which filters the water for

matter of converting glycogen to gonad or

food, this tidal yin and yang in Bull’s Bay is

reproductive material. In the early sum-

like an aquatic meals on wheels.

mer, oysters spawn and after spawning

To be on the water with Jeff is to better understand his passion. The day was

they lose body weight and any flavor. Why would anyone want to harvest then?

swelteringly hot on the shore, but once on

Most people obsess with the bacteria

the boat the ocean breezes made us for-

factor, swearing off oysters when water

get the heat index. It was high tide when

temperatures rise. There is wisdom in

we departed shore, but that would change

that philosophy for, in water temperatures

soon, exposing the oyster beds we had

below 65 degrees, little or no potentially

come to see. It was peaceful on the water,

deadly bacteria is detectable. It would be

with the expanse of sea grass and open sky

easy to attribute this bacteria to pollution,

spreading out around us. Motoring in and

but they are actually a naturally occur-

out of small creeks among the grasses, we

ring phenomenon. Truth is, this bacteria

encountered orange billed oyster catch-

has no affect on most healthy people. Still

ers, dolphins, fiddler crabs, elegant white

the choice to err on the side of caution is

egrets and a Bonnet Head shark. With the

one even Jeff Spahr adheres to. Though he

hypnotic lapping of bay water against the

opened several of his oysters for us on that

hull of the boat, the experience was a ma-

June day, he would not let us try the tempt-

rine zen — one that could seduce even the

ing morsels. He also knows, like Robb

most devout landlubber.

Walsh author of Sex, Death and Oysters,

The idea of the ‘R’ months actually originated in Europe. Oysters are har-

that … “Summer oysters, like winter tomatoes, are out of season foods.”

vested worldwide and seasons and water

This very seasonal-

temperatures vary widely. Oddly enough

ity poses a dilemma

the ‘R’ concept fits perfectly into season-

for local oyster har-

ality of the calendar right here in the US.

vesters. How do you

Just to clarify this age old adage, truth is,

generate

income

fall 2012 | 23

follow this!

during the ‘R’ months? Loyalty and trust.

traditionally seasonal business with ancil-

Though Jeff may not be cruising the cor-

lary streams of income. Seems someone

ridors of corporate America anymore, he

hasn’t lost his marketing chops.

is sagely putting his business degree to

Most of us would love to have a sea-

work. He has developed commercial ac-

sonal job and lay back during the off sea-

counts like Fleet Landing, Amen Street and

son. That’s not the way it works in reality

Highway 17 North Roadside Kitchen, as

though. Oystering is no exception. There is

well as an established private client list. He

a responsibility in the ownership of his oys-

manages and markets to his accounts via

ter bed lease, that of preserving the marine

his website — localoysters.com. He builds

environment and the future sustainability

relationships not only with the quality of

of Bull’s Bay oysters. Jeff and his lease

his product, but also with service. With an

partner are required to seed their leased

unconcealed smile of pride, Jeff told us of

beds in the off season. The day that we met

his “oyster education” for the staff at Fleet

with him, the Department of Natural Re-

Landing. Within a restaurant, there is a

sources was loading thousands of pounds

trickle effect when a vendor extends him-

of empty Louisiana oyster shells onto a

self in this way. There is a positive impact

barge to be distributed along the beds in

on not only owners, but chefs, servers and

the bay. In the early summer when oysters

ultimately the guests. On the private side,

are spawning, their “spat” seeks a shell

he provides personal delivery of his product

upon which to anchor its succulent life. By

and offers catering services for his clients.

seeding the bay with empty shells, DNR is

Jeff has also developed relationships

cultivating South Carolina’s oyster popula-

with colder water Atlantic oystermen. Dur-

tion. The bill for the seeding is being paid by

ing the months when he cannot harvest his

Jeff and the other lease owners.

own lease, he is able to offer his accounts

The fiscal responsibility of seeding is not

oysters still in season despite the lack of

the only requirement of lease owners. There

an ‘R’ in the month. Restaurants and oyster

is a more laborious responsibility. During

lovers alike do not suddenly lose their de-

the off season, Jeff and his crew are con-

sire for oysters in May and suddenly redis-

stantly raking down the beds, breaking the

cover their desire in September. By meeting

clusters and creating individuals that will

demand year round Jeff is re-invigorating a

develop into the selects that restaurants

24 | Eat This! Charleston

desire. They also do this by hand which is

opment. In order to harvest those deeper

called culling. Donned in heavy duty galosh-

water selects that have been hand culled

es (which he replaces monthly), waders and

during the off season, Jeff will use a small

gloves, Jeff moved from the boat onto the

mechanical dredge. He has invited us to

beds. Though the novice, might worry about

join him in September to have a hands on

the threat of sharks or even alligators from

harvest experience.

Bull’s Island, the oyster shells themselves

In consideration of the aphrodisial quali-

are more of a menace to those who harvest

ties of the oyster, well, few actual studies have

them. Their edges are razor sharp and of-

been done. Some say it is only the “power of

fer the promise of nasty consequences to

suggestion” that lends this salacious shell-

the careless and clumsy. Jeff handled the

fish its provocative reputation. Even Aphro-

clusters like old friends, with equal parts of

dite had her detractors. One fact, however,

respect and affection. He revealed to us the

supports the myth. Oysters are loaded with

pluff mud covered complexity of the clus-

zinc, a mineral which controls progesterone

ter, bringing to mind weekend oyster roasts

levels. Higher progesterone levels have been

and cheap beer. He spoke of how they would

linked with healthier libidos.

grow in size over the ’R-less” months. He

As for the local oystermen and women

broke away the more promising oysters,

on Bull’s Bay, and those locals in coastal

tossing them to deeper water to develop into

communities world wide, debates over the

prized selects.

libidinous nature of this shellfish are ir-

When the intense heat of summer begins

relevant. The cultivation of oysters is more

to wane, Jeff and his crew will once again

than a living, it is a way of life. It is hard,

begin to harvest. The process is tedious

honest work that requires an understand-

when harvesting selects. Clusters are har-

ing of the ocean’s rhythms and respect for

vested by hand or brought in by using a tool

the delicately balanced cycles of life that

which resembles an oversized salad tong.

flourish there. It is an ageless homage,

The process is actually called ‘tonging’. On

however unintentional, to a goddess whose

a makeshift table on the boat, the clusters

beauty was born in the waves and whose

are sorted, gathering the “keepers” into

legend lives on in these amazing shellfish.

bushels and throwing undersized oysters

We are all chasing Aphrodite in every briny

back into the bed to continue their devel-

sip that we take from the oyster shell.

fall 2012 | 25

DINE

Follow the Eat This! Critic

Dash

at www.eatthischarleston.com

or

Santi’s

A Tale of Two Cities

T

he original Santi’s, on Meeting

Dash that would feature not one, but two

Street, has been around for

spots. I didn’t feel that having two totally

quite some time. It took them

different meals would really showcase

opening their newest location,

their consistency, but I was also torn about

in Mount Pleasant, to reinvig-

the fact that … well if its good, it should all

orate my curiosity. So, on a mission, I ventured out in the summer heat to the beloved Santi’s on the South Side of the Ravenel.

be good.

As we sat with the menus before us, and no decision in mind … we sprung for a

In an eager dash to hit both spots before

couple lime margaritas on the rocks … they

the dreaded witching hour of work, I arrived

couldn’t hurt the process. The lunch menu

at 11 a.m. on the dot. Their sign was still

featured twelve to fifteen items. We debated

off, and for a brief moment I feared my plan

back and forth until I finally knew what had

had been shot to hell. I made my friend “hop

to be done. Tamales.

out and tug on the door”, but as she obliged

I have not ordered a Tamal since I left

a nice young man assured her, “We are

Birmingham, Al. I cooked side by side with

open!” I loosened a belt notch in preparation

a guy named Javier who had a friend that

for the two lunch gustation that was ahead.

made the most incredible Tamales, fresh

Once inside, it was time to decide how

every week. There were two options, red

to launch a fair compare/contrast Dine or

or green-both would have pork. I always

requested the green … with its slow serrano heat and vibrant cilantro flare. Once I saw that Santi’s offered these in three different styles: ranchero, green, or red and also with the option of chicken or pork, my mind was made up. I opted for what I knew best … green and pork, hoping I would get a slight glimmer of my old home. Within minutes our dishes arrived. Lunch #1 had begun. The Ta-

Downtown: Two Green Sauce Pork Tamales

male’s outside “masa”, (a corn dough typically steamed in a corn husk wrapper) was moist and

litely replied with a, “It’s July in Charleston.”

fork tender, while the pork insides poured out of it

Admittedly my friend always orders tacos at

the way it should. The verde sauce that accompa-

Mexican restaurants. The American way - crunchy

nied it was full of that spice and effervescence that

shell with all the trimmings. She stepped outside

I described earlier. I was a happy girl.

the box and tried a Mexican taco — soft tortilla,

My friend decided upon Beef Flautas. The clos-

spiced beef, cilantro and fresh lime. It was simple

est thing she’d ever had to this particular dish

and fresh and each ingredient shone brightly. She

was “taquitas” from the freezer aisle of the Piggly

felt that maybe the beef was a little dry, but she

Wiggly. Needless to say, the dish was a revelation

would definitely try it again.

for her. As much as she enjoyed the food, I actu-

I stuck to the Tamal agenda and ordered a sin-

ally think the ambience of the place ran a close

gle Ranchero, again with pork. This time it came

second in captivating her. She kept babbling about

to me by the third, maybe fourth server. It was

a retro-chic Mexicano feel. It was her first time

clear that it was not going to be the same as my

at Santi’s and I got what she was saying. There

previous experience. The Ranchero was deflated

is a sort of funky, authentic vibe in the place that

and stiff and crumbled like overcooked cornbread

leaves you a bit off kilter, yet oddly comfortable.

at the touch of my fork. This Ranchero was just,

Neither my friend or I were as enthusiastic on

‘eh, okay.

the other side of the Ravenel. The ambiance was

While I appreciated their positive energy (that

pleasant but you knew it was something else be-

even made me forget about my wobbly table) at

fore. Sometimes changing restaurant concepts

the new comer in Mt. P, I was undoubtedly miffed

in a single space is like fitting a square peg in a

by their lack of consistency. For those Santi’s afi-

round hole. The staff was more inviting-with an ob-

cionados and those that have yet to try either, I

vious “we just opened” attitude. The manager even

definitely suggest sticking to the South Side of the

swung by and apologized for the heat and said it

Ravenel until the crew over in Mount Pleasant has

would be under control by the following week. I po-

had a chance to work out their kinks.

FOOD

(rating average for both locations)

Downtown 1302 Meeting St. 843-722-2633

Mount Pleasant 1471 Ben Sawyer Blvd.

843-388-3146

ATMOSPHERE SERVICE PRICE OVERALL

Five Tomato Scale

Santi’s

fall 2012 | 27

DO THIS!

Southern Ground’s Table

W

by Antonia M. Krenza

hat do you get when

hell of a “Southern Ground Music and Food

you put multiple,

Festival” hosted by The Zac Brown Band and

South Eastern chefs

Daniel Island’s Blackbaud Stadium.

together at one event?

Last year, Eat This! Charleston had

One hell of a music

the amazing oppor tunity to get be-

festival, if you can believe it. In this case, one

hind the scenes with the ver y innovative and highly-praised food Lords of

Saturday, October 20 & Sunday, October 21

the day. With welcoming aprons and

Blackbaud Stadium, Charleston, SC

chef Rusty Hamlin, Exec chef of the

Visit southerngroundfestival.com for

Zac Brown Band, and pastr y chef Da-

ticket and pricing information

vid Gaus of Bayou Baker y in Arlington,

come hither hoe cakes, chef R.J. Cooper of Rouge 24 in Washington, D.C.,

VA lured us into their kitchen to sneak

Wine, Brew & Wishes Too!

front Park on Henry Hallman Boulevard will be the site for a twilight tasting of wines from the Wine Shop. Debbie Marlowe from downtown Charleston’s Lock-

Saturday, October 13

wood Drive vino merchant is prepared to

Memorial Waterfront Park, Henry Hallman Blvd.

to this event — more than 100 bottles’

bring a heckuva lot of adult grape juice worth. Marlowe and her staff has had

The

charitable

that

plenty of experience in throwing tastings

grants kids the biggest favors they can

like these, as the porch adjacent to the

think of is appealing to the over-21 crowd

Wine Shop has been the site of weekly of-

to help them raise money for their foun-

ferings for some time now, and the shop

dation. Mt. Pleasant’s Memorial Water-

recently celebrated its seventeenth an-

28 | Eat This Charleston!

organization

Southern Ground & Food Festival Musical Lineup Zac Brown Band The Avett Brothers Grace Potter & the Nocturnals The Charlie Daniels Band Michael Franti & Spearhead The Wailers Jerry Douglas Los Lonely Boys a peak at how world class chefs get down and dir ty on southern ground. Their passion for food and the uttermost dining experience shown through as much as The Zac Brown Band’s desire for their fan’s to have an epic music encounter.

Stay tuned to eatthischarleston.com for

JJ Grey & Mofro Clay Cook Coy Bowles & The Fellowship The James Arthur Band John Driskell Hopkins & Balsam Range

+ Southern Ground Artists Blackberry Smoke

a list of par ticipating South Eastern Chefs

Nic Cowan

and other local food vendors that will break

Dugas

bread and jam when Southern Ground re-

Sonia Leigh

turns to Charleston October 20-21, 2012 at

Levi Lowrey

Blackbaud Stadium.

The Wheeler Boys The Wood Brothers

niversary. Come taste dozens of wines

that has

that will include some of the favorites

grown a

from previous outings, like the south-

loyal follow-

ern French selections (Bonjour, y’all!),

ing east of the

the wines of Tuscany, and dry rosés from

Cooper River

around the world.

(and elsewhere)

Don’t forget the special beers that will

will be pouring the

be celebrated, as Bottles of Mount Pleas-

suds for what should

ant will be helping out by bringing out the

be a beautiful weekend gathering. Local

local breweries’ samples to the park.

pickers Yeehaw Junction will provide the

Palmetto, Westbrook, and Holy City will

sounds of bluegrass that will carry the

all be represented. The Coleman Bou-

day. Tickets are $25.00, for more infor-

levard beer, wine, and spirits merchant

mation, call (843) 853-7880.

MAY 2012 | 29

Reader recipe

Email your dish! readerrecipe@eatthischarleston.com

1 c superfine sugar

¼ tsp Salt

4 tsp Lemon Zest

¾ c Maverick Citrus Vodka

¾ c Freshly Squeezed Lemon Juice

3-4 Sprigs of Thyme

1 tsp Freshly Ground Pepper

1. Cocktail: Combine vodka, lemon juice, and sugar in a cocktail shaker half-filled with ice cubes. Shake well, and strain into a martini glass, garnish with thyme and enjoy!

2. Granita: Place sugar, basil and zest in food processor and pulse until thyme is ground.

Lemon Thyme Vodka

Three-Way

by K. Culver of Mount Pleasant

What better accompaniment to a quivering oyster on the half shell than icecold Vodka. K. Culver was inspired to create a light and uncomplicated cocktail that would not compete with the tex-

Transfer to bowl and add pepper, 2 cups water, lemon juice, Vodka, and salt. Whisk Let mixture stand until sugar and salt are dissolved, stirring occasionally.

Pour mixture into 9 inch square metal baking pan and place in freezer.

ture or taste of oysters. Here is a simple

Stir mixture, pulling a fork back and forth every 45 min. or so for 4 hrs. or until frozen.

and as it melts — pools in the shell to

Mixture should be fluffy and icy. Garnish with thinly sliced peppers for color and texture.

you can channel your patience and allow

3. Oyster Shooter: Let Granita chill your oyster and once fully melted- bring the shell to your lips, tilt and slurp. Repeat.

30 | Eat This! Charleston

recipe. If you are feeling more adventurous, we invite you to create the cocktail as a granita. A spoonful of this intensely flavored ice keeps your oysters chilled create an excellent pairing. And lastly, if the granita to melt in the half shell-viola — gourmet oyster shooter, a miraculous ménage a trois.

“Hot soups for cool people!”

Hair Driving You Crazy?

We’ll drive the crazy out!

843.388.8155

See our daily specials, daily homemade soups, gourmet sandwiches, and salads at

www.ladlessoups.com

840 Coleman Blvd. • Mt. Pleasant Next to Skoogies and Dunkin Donuts

Free Haircut

WITH FIVE AREA LOCATIONS TO SERVE yOu.

with purchase of highlights or any chemical service

James Island • KIawah • mt. Pleasant nORth ChaRlestOn • west ashley

Dianne’s Hair Salon • 840 Coleman Blvd. Mt. Pleasant, SC • 843.388.8155 New customers only. Must present coupon. Not valid with any other offers. Expires 11/1/12 IC

fall 2012 | 31

CHEF recipe

4 Border Springs Lamb Bellies, cleaned

1 Quart Rendered Duck Fat (or clear liquid frying oil)

1/4c Cumin (ground and toasted)

1 Quart Heavy Cream

1/4c Coriander (ground and toasted)

4 Sprigs Thyme

1T Buttermilk (Cultured)

1c Kosher Salt

1/2c Whole black peppercorns

1/4c Sugar

1 Head Garlic (split)

12 Padron peppers

1 T Extra virgin olive oil

1 Pint Heirloom Cherry Tomatoes

6 Leaves Mint 1 Lemon (Juiced)

Cumin Scented Confit

Lamb Belly

by Josh Keller of Two Boroughs Larder 186 Coming Street Josh Keller grew up in North Eastern Pennsylvania. It is a place he would not exactly say has good food but the cor-

1. One Day Before - Make Crème Fraiche Take one quart of heavy cream and mix in 1 tablespoon of buttermilk. Mix together until incorporated. Place in a container with a vented lid (Cheesecloth securely placed on top works the best.) Set aside for 24 hours in a room with a temperature of 70 degrees.

2. Make Cure for the bellies Take the bellies out of their packaging and pat dry any moisture. Combine the cumin, coriander, salt and sugar in a mixing bowl. Once it is well mixed together, use it to season the bellies on both sides, and place them on a sheet tray with wire rack in the refrigerator for 24 hours.

3. The Next Day/Meal Day Make sure that the crème fraiche has thickened.

If not just keep letting it sit until you have to use it.

32 | Eat This! Charleston

ners are lined with Irish bars, simple red sauce Italian restaurants and a tradition of family largely influenced by the Pennsylvania Dutch. While Josh did have an Italian grandmother who passed off hard rocks as gnocchi, his family was not a foodie family. Scrapple and grits were an every other day staple. It was not until he was older that he discovered the wonders of Pennsylvania cuisine including fries with brown gravy and corn beef hash.

Is Northeast PA a culinary mecca?

No. But a great place to grow up. When

“BEST HEALTH FOOD in Charleston”

– DESTINATION GUIDE

BREAKFAST • LUNCH • DINNER • CRAFT BEER & ORGANIC WINE HEALTHy WRApS • SALADS • GyROS • ALL NATURAL FRUIT SmOOTHIES CATERING FOR ANy SIzE GROUp • VEGAN/VEGETARIAN FRIENDLy • INDOOR/OUTDOOR SEATING DELIVERy AT BOTH LOCATIONS • FULL SERVICE DINNER ON jAmES ISLAND ORDER ON-LINE @ blackbeanco.com

noW THRee aRea locaTIonS JameS ISlanD 869 FOLLy ROAD FAST DRIVE-THRU 843-277-2101 DoWnToWn 116 SpRING STREET FREE DELIVERy 843-277-0990 mT PleaSanT 1600 mIDTOWN RD INSIDE mUSC 843-416-8561

Welcome

to DeRoMa’s

843.972.1780

www.DeRoMasPizza.com

1948 Longrove Dr. Seaside Farms Next to Target

DELIVERY NOT AVAILABLE IN ALL AREAS fall 2012 | 33

CHEF recipe Pull the bellies out of the refrigerator. In a skillet on medium high heat add 2 tablespoons of blended oil. When the pan is hot place each belly gently in the pan and brown on both sides.

Sear the bellies one at a time (unless you have a pan large enough to hold them all). Once they are browned, transfer into a Dutch oven (it is fine if they overlap). Add the thyme, peppercorns, and garlic. Cover the bellies with duck fat (or the liquid frying oil), put on the lid and place in a 300-degree oven for 5-­6 hours. It is important to check the bellies ever so often so they don’t burn and depending on your oven it may take more or less time. The bellies should be fork tender but not broken. Let them cook.

4. Prep Veggies Cut the pint of cherry tomatoes in half lengthwise and set aside, while keeping them at room temperature. Inspect the Padron peppers to make sure there are not soft or wilted and trim the stem, leaving about ¼ inch on. Set aside, but do not combine.

5. Remove Lamb Bellies from the oven and Cut Let cool in the fat to keep the meat as moist as possible. When cool, transfer to a sheet tray with a wire rack, so liquid can drain. Cut the bellies into approximately 4 ounce portions (we like small equal squares for presentation).

Eat This! asked for a Chef Recipe and

6. Sear the Bellies In a cast iron skillet on medium high heat, add 1 tablespoon of blended oil and sear the lamb on both sides to get the outside crispy but not burned. Place the pan in a 300 degree oven to finish cooking.

summer after his junior year in high

7. Char the Peppers & Tomatoes Heat a large cast iron pan on high with no oil. Once the pan is hot, add the Padron Peppers, charring them with some nice color but not burning them.

About halfway through, when they are browning, add the halved tomatoes and char as well. Once the tomatoes have some color, add 1 tablespoon of EVO, salt to taste and continue to cook, about 2 minutes. Turn off the flame and add 3 tablespoons of lemon juice (approximately 1 Lemon)

es, sheering, feeding and caring for

8. Serve & Enjoy Place a spoonful of crème fraiche on the plate.

Arrange the peppers and tomatoes with the pieces of lamb belly. Garnish with a chiffonade of mint leaf and a pinch of sea salt. Bon Appetite!

Chefs, email your recipe to: chefrecipe@eatthischarleston.com 34 | Eat This! Charleston

a story, Josh was lost. There are no pigs in Northeast PA. Infact, there is no cattle either. What they did have was goats, lamb and dairy cows. The school, Josh and two friends got summer jobs working on a sheep farm a few miles from his home. It was an amazing summer of fixing fencsheep, but it was also the first time he realized that someone raises the food we eat. He watched animals he had become attached to- go to slaughter.

At first, he struggled with this and then came to realize that this is where meat comes from. In honor of that summer on the farm, Josh chose a lamb dish to emphasize who and what defines him as a chef. This simple recipe is full of flavor. While this cut of meat may take a little longer to cook, it represents true lamb flavor with his own Northeast, PA panache.

Find what you know, or try something new.

At Crushed Fine Wine we carry more than 550 different wines and display them the proper way (horizontally) on our ‘Wall of Wine’ organized by style and character rather than by region or varietal to allow you the opportunity to discover new and exciting wines.

All our wines are competitively priced and our vast selection guarantees something for everyone from the beginner to the collector.

Scan our QR Code for specials and Friday Night Tasting information!

716 S. Shelmore Blvd. | Mt. Pleasant 843-856-1156 | crushedfinewine.com

Dig Into More Eat This!

Online

Feature Events Online Articles Restaurant Spotlights Local Bites Online Series

1050 E. Montague Park Circle

Restaurant Directory & More!

843.225.2899 Fax 843.225.2920

eatthischarleston.com

richardscoffee@knology.net “like” us on

facebook fall 2012 | 35

SUMMERVILLE D LA

Roma Tomatoes

N SO

Richard’s Coffee 10 miles

.

RD

Fuji S

L

OLD TR O

Brixx

LL E Y LA

DS

ON R

D.

RD.

Walmart Coosaw Creek Country Club

Taps DO

RC

HE

ST

ER

RD .

Ladles Soups

MATHIS

RD. FERRY

DDS

O NIE D

JOHN

.

BLVD

Crushed Fine Wine

Eurasia

DA ATH GR

H AS

.

RD

PH

DO RC

HE S

TE

VD T BL

Mc

Whole Foods

HCU

OR T NN STO

RB Y

HOU

E AT PH

OS

Y LE

RR D.

Baskin Robbins

m

E COL IN

MA

N. W

.

ST

5T

HN

ST .

Perfectly Frank’s

W. RIC

HA

RD

SO

NA VE .

E5

N

ST .

LIN

LE

RL

IN

G.

CO LN VIL

BE

S. M

AI

N

ST .

MY

ER

SP

KW

Y.

TH

EY

LL RO

DT

OL

SUMMERVILLE

.

RD

36 | Eat This! Charleston

RD .

MAN

D.

BLV

LONG POINT RD.

17 North Roadside Kitchen 4 miles

Sushi

LONG POINT RD.

R ILE

ER

D.

.

VD BL S D Bricco Bracco OD ED Y. NI N KW Ladles H TP JO KE

M

Uncorked

SIX

x Pizza

Soups

E NG

AD RO

A

FL

RI

S

R TG EE

S AS

BA

SW

D. LV KB

C

NE RY

NG

HU

GR E OV

.

RD

R TO

G IN

NN VE

C NE ON SC M

.

DR

AL FP

NG LO

EO

ISL

SEA SIDE FARMS DeRoMa’s Pizza Tasi Bites and Blends Fear No Easel Crave Kitchen and Cocktails

Black Bean Co.

ER FL

E NG

AD RO

A

RI

mount pleasant Triangle Char & Bar

Huck’s Lowcountry Table LE CO .

LVD NB

MA CHA

RLE

STO

N

fall 2012 | 37

Downtown charleston CHA

Black Bean Co.

RLE

STO

N

SC Aquarium

ST.

CONCORD

EAST BAY

ST.

NG

ING

M CO

526

ST.

T. GS KI N

ETI ME

UN ST.

CALHO

ST.

NT WE

R WO

ST.

LA .

DR

RLE

STO

N

Baskin Robbins AVONDALE Triangle Char & Bar The Roost

SC Aquarium

ST.

ST. CONCORD

ST.

MING

ST.

CO

ST.

KING

CALHOUN

TING

MEE

EAST BAY

See Downtown Charleston Map Above ST.

TH OR TW WEN ST. FAIN BEAU

ST.

MARKET ST.

KIAWAH Island HW

RD

NK

FOLLY

SY K BET

Y

BA

ERR

ISON

johns islandLadles Soups Y

PKW

H WA KIA

Black Bean Co.

ISL D AN PK

RD

Y

LA

IS

W

ND

OK

Fresh Fields

A SE

Sunrise Bistro 4 miles 38 | Eat This! Charleston

K HWY MAYBAN

O BR

Ladles Soups

DR.

ND

CHA

MAY

ING ND

L IS

NIE

EN SEV

Ladles Soups 3 miles

west Ashley

R LA

DA

MARKET AREA Mac’s Place The Brick Amen Street

RIVE

IN UFA BEA

.

MARKET ST

T.

S TH

james island

FARM

Because life is more than ordinary!

Let Us Be Your Personal Chefs For All Your Catering Needs Check out our New Menu Now Serving Beer & Wine Catering Available

As featured on “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives”!

118 N. Main Street Summerville • 843-871-9730

www.pfranksandmore.com

1797 Main Rd. • Johns Island

Corner of Main Rd. & Maybank Hwy.

www.sunrise-bistro.com

“TOP 10 dATE nIGhT” Charleston Living Magazine

Breakfast Lunch & Dinner

Sign Up Online.

Grab Some Wine. It’s Paintin’ Time!

Bring out your inner artist while enjoying a glass of wine with friends.

843.284.FEAR (3327) 1960 Riviera Drive • Mt Pleasant www.FearNoEasel.com

Beach Food • Coffee & Crepe Brunches Deli Wraps • Fruit Smoothies NOW Serving Wholy Cow Ice Cream

843-856-4264 •tasifresh.com 1948 Long Grove Drive, Mt Pleasant Just off IOP Connector, next to Target.

Minutes from the beach.

fall 2012 | 39

Restaurant Directory 17 North Roadside Kitchen 3563 N Highway 17 Mount Pleasant, SC 29464 (843) 606-2144 roadsidekitchens.com

DeRoMa’s Pizza 1948 Long Grove Drive #201 Mount Pleasant, SC 29464 (843) 972-1780 deromaspizza.com

Perfectly Frank’s 118 North Main Street Summerville, SC 29483 (843) 871-9730 pfranksandmore.com

Baskin Robbins 280 West Coleman Boulevard Mount Pleasant, SC 29464 (843) 881-6741

Eurasia 915 Houston Northcutt Boulevard Mount Pleasant, SC 29464 (843) 606-2616 eurasiaSC.com

Richards Coffee 1050 E. Montague Park Circle, N. Charleston, SC (843) 225-2899

1798 Ashley River Road Charleston, SC 29407 (843)-225-3131 baskinrobbins.com Black Bean Co. 116 Spring Street Charleston, SC 29403 (843) 277-0990 869 Folly Road James Island, SC 29412 (843) 277-2101 1600 Midtown Road Mount Pleasant, SC 29466 (843) 416-8561 blackbeanco.com Bricco Bracco 1161 Basketweave Drive Mount Pleasant, SC 29466 (843) 416-8290 briccobracco.net The Brick 213 B East Bay Street Charleston, SC 29401 (843) 297-8704 thebrickcharleston.com Brixx Wood Fired Pizza 656 Long Point Road #G Mount Pleasant, SC 29464 (843) 971-2120 brixxpizza.com/locations/ mount-pleasant Crave Kitchen and Cocktails 1968 Riviera Drive Mount Pleasant, SC 29464 (843) 884-1177 cravemtp.com Crushed Fine Wine 716 South Shelmore Boulevard Mount Pleasant, SC 29464 (843) 856-1156 crushedfinewine.com

Fear No Easel 1960 Riviera Drive Mount Pleasant, SC 29464 (843) 284-FEAR (3327) fearnoeasel.com Fuji Sushi 644 Long Point Road #Q Mount Pleasant SC 29466 (843) 856-5798 fujisushibarandgrill.com Hucks Lowcountry Table 1130 Ocean Boulevard Isle of Palms, SC 29451 (843) 886-6772 huckslowcountrytable.com Ladles Soups 1164 Basketweave Drive Mount Pleasant, SC 29466 (843) 606-2711 3125 Bees Ferry Road West Ashley, SC 29414 (843) 769-9800 190 Gardners Circle Johns Island, SC 29455 (843) 243-9881 8400 Dorchester Road North Charleston, SC 29420 (843) 412-6780 1175 Folly Road James Island, SC 29412 (843) 225-8810 ladlessoups.com Mac’s Place 215 E Bay Street Charleston, SC 29401 (843) 793-4653 macsplacecharleston.com

Roma Tomatoes 717 Old Trolley Road Summerville, SC (843) 873-9339 tomatoessummerville.com The Roost Bar and Grille 825 Savannah Highway Charleston, SC 29407 (843) 718-2285 theroostavondale.com Sunrise Bistro 1797 Main Road Johns Island, SC 29455 (843) 718-1858 sunrise-bistro.com Taps Brews 9770 Dorchester Road #104 Summerville, SC 29485 (843) 821-0888 tapsbrews.com Tasi Bites and Blends 1948 Long Grove Drive #5 Mount Pleasant, SC 29466 (843) 856-4264 tasifresh.com Triangle Char & Bar 828 Savannah Highway Charleston, SC 29407 (843) 377-1300 1440 Ben Sawyer Boulevard Mt. Pleasant, SC 29464 (843) 606-2900 trianglecharandbar.com Uncorked 664 Long Point Road, Suite G Mount Pleasant, SC 29464 (843) 849-5185 uncorkedwine.net

Email restaurant information to: directory@eatthischarleston.com

40 | Eat This! Charleston

Being there is why I’m here.

Auto | Home | Life | Bank

West Ashley’s Premier sPorts BAr uS Come enjoy Football SeaSon with tVs 12 & watCh all the GameS on our er’ MonDAY: 1/2 Price ‘Build Your own Burg ne) TBo or t (File t nigh k TuesDAY: stea WeD & Fri: Happy Hour Appetizers $ & Liquor HAPPY Hour: Mon-Fri 1 off all Beer open Mon-Thur 4 pm - Close Fri-sun 11 am - 2 am sunday Brunch

825 Savannah Hwy. | Charleston | 843.718.2285 theroostavondale.com

Scott Walker | 843.388.6965 scott@scottwalkeragency.com | scottwalkeragency.com 867 Houston Northcutt Blvd | Patriots Plaza | Mt Pleasant

Ready

for another

Serving?

500Beers Bottled

8 drafts

Feature Events

groWler refill statioN

Online Articles Restaurant Spotlights Local Bites Online Series restaUraNt opeNiNg

fall 2012 9730 dorchester rd. North charlestoN 843-821-0888 oakBrook Walmart shoppiNg ceNter

Restaurant Directory & More!

eatthischarleston.com fall 2012 | 41

Events September

ONGOING

5-16 Charleston Restaurant Week

sat Sippin’ Saturday Saturdays, 1-5 pm through November 1 Irvin House Vineyards, Johns Island

20-23 Euphoria Greenville Greenville, SC

25 Rice Harvest Middleton Place West Ashley

28 Iron Chef Competition 6-9 pm Culinary Institute of Charleston Palmer Campus Downtown Charleston

29 Singer –Songwriter Show Time TBA The Lighthouse on Shem Creek Mount Pleasant 30 Taste of Charleston 10:30 am Boone Hall Plantation Mount Pleasant

OCTOBEr

13 Wine, Brew, and wishes too Memorial Waterfront Park Mt. Pleasant

20 Famously Hot Chef Showdown Event SC State Fair Columbia, SC

20-21 Southern Ground Music and Food Festival Blackbaud Stadium Daniel Island southerngroundfestival.com novemBEr 13-18 Music to Your Mouth Palmetto Bluff, SC musictoyourmouth.com

DAILY Beer Tastings at Holy City Brewing Monday & Tuesday 4 p.m. - 6 p.m.

Wednesday, Thursday & Friday 4 p.m. - 7 p.m.

Holy City Brewing, 4155- C Dorchester Road, N. Charleston MON Bin 152 Tastings Mondays 4 p.m. - 2 p.m.

Bin 152, 152 King Street Downtown Charleston TUES Mt. Pleasant Farmers Market Tuesdays at 3:30 p.m.

Mt. P Farmers Market Pavilion 645 Coleman Blvd., Mt. Pleasant TUES Rare Beer Tuesday Tuesdays at 5 pm Charleston Beer Exchange, 14 Exchange Street, Downtown TUES S.I.N. (Service Industry Night) Tuesdays 7 p.m. - 12 p.m.

Social, 188 Bay Street Downtown Charleston THUR N. Charleston Farmers Market Thursdays 12 p.m. - 7 p.m.

Park Circle, N. Charleston THUR Daniel Island Farmers Market Thursdays at 4 p.m.

Island Park Drive, Daniel Island TH&F Westbrook Brewing Tasting Room & Tours Thursdays & Fridays 4 p.m. - 7 p.m.

Saturdays 12 p.m. - 4 p.m.

SAT Charleston Farmers Market Saturdays 8 a.m. - 2 p.m.

Marion Square, Downtown Charleston Summerville Farmer’s Market 8 a.m. - 1 p.m.

200 S. Main Street, Summerville

42 | Eat This! Charleston

Certified Naturally Grown

Ambrose Family Farm ale CSA • Pick Your Own • Wholes 2349 Black Pond Lan e Wadmalaw Isla nd, SC (843) 559-0988 www.stonomarket.com

Visit the Farm or the Stono Market.

We’re the same family! fall 2012 | 43

Foodie quiz

50 Shades of Sexy Food

Kiss Summer Goodbye and Embrace Fall What happens when you mix black and white? Grey. Various sultry shades. The shell of an oyster can easily be described as gray in addition to red, purple, and white. Food has evolved in such a way that it can seduce and inspire. Chefs often describe the tastes and textures as sexy, hot and inviting. In this issue, Eat This! offers an oyster cabaret to show you the sensual side of one of our favorite zinc-laden aphrodisiacs. We invite you to jump into our oyster bed, tease your senses and unleash your imagination and curiosity to other feisty foods that tickle your taste buds and awaken your libido.

1. What sexy green stalk is a great source of potassium, fiber, vitamins A & C and folic acid and is said to boost histamine production necessary for the ability to reach orgasm in both sexes? a. Broccoli b. Rapini c. Asparagus d. Celery 2. This nut was long regarded as a fertility symbol which aroma said to arouse passion in females: a. Peanut b. Walnut c. Pistachio d. Chestnut e. Almond 3. This fruit was forbidden

by Catholic priests in Spain due to it’s obscenely sexual shape.

It is also said to boost the immune system and is rich with folic acid, B6 and potassium. a. Banana b. Pomegranate c. Avocado d. Apple e. Fig

4. This bright fruit contains chelating minerals and the bromeliad enzyme, said to enhance the male libido. a. Orange d. Banana b. Mango e. Papaya c. Strawberry

7. Chocked full of allicin, this strong food is said to enhance blood flow in men. a. Garlic d. Shallots b. Onion e. Rakkyo c. Leek

5. In addition to the benefits on the human body, this herb’s aroma is said to have an aphrodisiac effect and is also stimulating. a. Thyme d. Rosemary b. Parsley e. Basil c. Sage

8. This food helps the body use and metabolize estrogen and may also enhance testosterone levels in the blood. a. Peach preserves b. Agave Nectar c. Honey d. Elderflower Extract e. Fig Preserves

6. This delight contains compounds including anandamide and phenylethylamine (aka the “love chemical’). It is said to help induce feelings of excitement, attraction and euphoria. a. Strawberries b. Champagne c. Red Wine d. Chocolate e. Jello

9. Georgia O’Keeffe may have been inspired by this budding fruit. As an arousing stimulant, a dissection can reveal something believed to emulate the female sex organs. a. Persimmon b. Papaya c. Kumquat d. Fig e. Peach

Visit eatthischarleston.com to submit your answers for a chance to win a $25 gift certificate.

A modern roadside kitchen featuring classic comfort foods such as fried chicken, collards, mac and cheese and bone-in pork chop.

Charleston native, Chef Brannon Florie, focuses on fresh, seasonal and local ingredients and utilizes the sustainable garden on premise. Voted best outdoor patio in Mt. Pleasant, enjoy a delightful evening under the oaks draped in twinkle lights with a fire place, live music and cornhole.

{

MT. PLEASANT 3563 Highway 17 843.606.2144

Sun-Thurs: 4 pm - 10 pm Fri-Sat: 4 pm - 11 pm Happy Hour daily: 4 pm - 7 pm

www.roadsidekitchens.com

find us on

facebook

速

REDEFINING EXCELLENCE IN APARTMENT LIVING.

greystar.com

Atlantic Palms | 2510 Atlantic Palms Lane | Charleston | 843-797-3336 The Courtyards at 411 Meeting Street | 411 Meeting Street | Charleston | 843-723-2057 Greystar Daniel island Village | 455 Seven Farms Drive | Charleston | 843-849-1849 Gregorie Ferry Landing | 1240 Winnowing Way | Suite 101 | Mount Pleasant | 843-225-7515 Woodfield Long Point | 335 Stonewall Court | Mount Pleasant | 888-355-2602 Woodfield Southpoint | 1000 Bonietta Harrold Drive | Charleston | 843-789-4676 Woodfield St. James | 900 Channing Way | Goose Creek | 843-771-0870