Eclectic Issue Two FW14 by Eclectic Magazine

ISSN 2054-4472 UK £9.99

eclectic

O W L L E / N I C K C AV E / S T E P H E N T H O M P S O N / H A R R Y H A L I M / T I L L M A N N L A U T E R B AC H / F Y O D O R G O L A N / T E X S AV E R I O

P A R I S / L O N D O N / C O P E N H AG E N / M I L A N ISSUE TWO FW14

masthead Editor-in-Chief/ Anna Barr Creative Director/ Charin Chong Digital Editor/ Anniina Mäkelä Music Editor/ Pete Buckenham Italy Fashion Editor/ Fabio Mercurio Contributing Fashion Editor/ Keanoush Da Rosa Advertising/ Phoebe Stubblefield Contributing Writers/ Aurélie Laurière, Cécilia Bonnet, Lauren Wilkinson, Ophélie Lecorcier, Porschia Thomas Contributing Photographers/ Anna Breda, Corinne Stoll, Daniel Fraser, Kajsa Gullberg, Lisbeth Breland Saalmink, Quentin Caffier, Robbert Jacobs, Simbarashe Cha, Stella Bonasoni, Stephanie Meisl, Terrible Twins, Tomokazu Hamada, Valeria Mitelman, Yuji Watanabe Contributions/ Eclectic welcomes new submissions and contributors online, for more information visit submissions under the contact page on eclectic-society.com Published Biannually by Docuphonic Productions Ltd Registered Company Number: 08585314 Eclectic Magazine is printed in Italy and published twice a year. International Distribution/ Pineapple Media Ltd Copyright © 2014 Eclectic Society in association with Docuphonic Productions Ltd and Individual Contributors All Rights Reserved. No copy, reproduction, or retransmission allowed in whole or in part without written permission. All Enquires/ contact@eclectic-society.com Front Cover/ Photography Yuji Watanabe, Styling Anna Barr & Charin Chong, Hairstyling Yumiko Hikage, Make-up Camille Lutz, Styling Assistant Ophélie Lecorcier, Model OWLLE, Dress by CORBIER AGOSTINI Back Cover/ Photography Corinne Stoll, Styling Tine Kozjak, Hairstyling Candice Kanani @ MH Coiffure, Make-up Cate P, Model Stephen Thompson, Overcoat by JUUN J.

contents 6 - Designer Discussion

86 - Backstage: Ter et Bantine

7 - Fall Exhibitions

89 - Editorial: Fashion Folies

8 - Art: 100 Years of Beats, William S. Burroughs

100 - Q&A with Tillmann Lauterbach

9 - Music: Ones to Watch

102 - Photography: Abandoned Beauty

10 - Music: Q&A with Owlle

106 - Photography: Carnal Infinity

14 - Music: Plutonian Sounds of Nubia

111 - Photography: Captured Créateurs

15 - Editorial: Afrofuture

124 - Editorial: Neo Romance

26 - Music: Red Snapper

131 - Fashion Face

28 - Editorial: Plastic Soul

132 - Feature: Local Artisans Unveiled

35 - Fall Accessories: Space Dame

134 - Editorial: Metamorphosis

36 - In the Atelier: Fyodor Golan

140 - Fashion Week Diary: Clean Chic

38 - Editorial: Everything was a Glitz

142 - Editorial: Hair Dazed

47 - Fall Special with Peter Jensen

144 - Travel: Europe Revisited

48 - Editorial: Girl Meets Night

146 - Travel: Tokyo in Fall

58 - Editorial: Color Precision

147 - Beauty: Alternative Beauty

62 - Art: Q&A with Nick Cave

148 - Olfactory: Invisible Clothing with Agonist

66 - Art: Marie Rime’s Armures

149 - Last Words: Exploration of the Soul

70 - Feature: Indonesia Rising

150 - Stockists

74 - Editorial: Painting No. 8

ISSN 2054-4472

contributors

Elizabeth Aaron worked for Alexander McQueen, Jonathan Saunders, and Givenchy while studying at the London College of Fashion. After graduating, she moved to Paris to write her first novel Low Expectations, which is out now. Aaron’s fashion illustrations can also be found on Telescope’s Little City Guide to Paris. Aaron has teamed up with London-based photographer, Hanako Whiteway to bring you inside the atelier of Fyodor Golan. elizabeth-aaron.com Jessica Cooper is a London-based independent writer for fashion and beauty. She speaks to 2014 LVMH Prize nominated designer, Tillmann Lauterbach along with starting the designer discussion, and entering this fall space age hunting for accessories. Apart from constantly running around fashion events, Jessica is a passionate traveler and aims to explore the world. @JessicaBCooper Donald Gjoka takes us backstage at Paris and Milan Fashion Week where he transforms the classical “behind the scenes”reportage into a personal analysis, highlighting a set mood in every photograph as stylistic imprints of the author’s most suggestive intentions. Milanbased Gjoka’s work has been featured in a spectrum of publications from Elle UK to AuRevoir Magazine and on eclectic-society.com. donald-j.com Damilola Oshilaja is a multi-disciplinary artist with a Master of Arts in Fine Art from Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design. In 1998, he formed Grunge Studio in London and has since had numerous shows in Europe. Oshilaja’s work can be found in different public and private collections around the world including Sweden, France, Nigeria, Japan, Switzerland, the US, and in the UK. grungestudios.com Marlo Saalmink is a Creative Director and Brand Strategist based in Copenhagen. Inspired by an eclectic career as a visual artist, in his work he aims to embrace a reflective sense of space and communicative devotion to where ever he resides. The Nordic hemisphere allows for such pristine design reflection and serves as an interesting backdrop for creative fashion processes. marlosaalmink.com Joachim Sperl is based in Hamburg as a freelance illustrator and graphic designer. For this issue, he created the original illustration for our Red Snapper music article. In addition to exhibiting his work in artistic ambiances, his work is regularly featured in publications in Germany and abroad. joachimsperl.com

Hanako Whiteway is a fashion photographer who has been immersed in art since an early age. Her dual nationality brings together influences from Japan and Britain, embracing both cultures and allowing them to influence her work. She graduated from the London College of Fashion in 2011 and has shot for designer Paul Smith as well as guitarist Jimmy Page and Brit artist duo, Gilbert & George. hanakowhiteway.com

eclectic issue two FW14

FROM THE EDITORS In every aspect of our daily lives, we are constantly surrounded by transformation; from society's rapid progression to an increasingly digital lifestyle, the evolving landscape of art, music and film, to fast changing trends in fashion. Our world is forever morphing before our very eyes. Transformation allows the shedding away of past ideas and concepts to pursue new horizons and adapt to the changes around us. As we look towards the fall, we embrace transformation across all spectrums and open our minds to what awaits. We take on a new form, with a special double-sided issue taking us back to the golden age of vinyl, to present a magazine with 2-sides that harmoniously carry the same spirit. Our A-Side has the catchy, colorful content of a pop single, while our B-Side carries more subtle, subversive tunes that linger long after playback. For fall, we go down a new inspiring route as we evolve into a unisex magazine, introducing menswear to welcome a new audience. We venture alongside talented photographers, designers, artists, and musicians as they journey through their own transformations. Music, fashion, and art are blended together to create a powerful and visceral mix, as seen through the work of artist Nick Cave and singer Owlle. We transform our bodies and change our skins in editorials Nancy Boy, Afrofuturism, Girl Meets Night, and Painting Number 8. Designers are captured in their own creations while in Fashion Folies we meet an eclectic ensemble that pushes the boundaries of physical limits. We take a look at the beauty in decay through the eyes of photographer Jeremy Gibbs and examine the creative transformation of those who leave home to pursue their dreams in Europe through Indonesia Rising. We uncover the new hotspots of Europe and Tokyo and explore modern narcissism through Carnal Infinity. We are aware of our own metamorphosis as we look forward to the changes that lie ahead. Life is a moving, breathing organism where one must constantly be willing to evolve to survive. We strive to be one step closer to our own ideals and invite you to join us on the journey of self-discovery through transformation.

Editors: Anna Barr Charin Chong Anniina M ä kel ä

designer discussion

CONSUMERS ARE STARTING TO REJECT MANDATED TRENDS AS FAST FASHION COMES WITH SOCIAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL COSTS. IS THE CONSUMER CRAZE REACHING ITS TIPPING POINT? WHAT MARKET SHIFTS DO YOU SEE NEXT? Text by Jessica Cooper

Europe is entering the slow fashion trend whereas in Korea we are still in the fast fashion trend. There is no environmental effort made in Korea and a big lack of global awareness. It’s almost impossible to find organic fabrics in Korea; you have to import them from Japan and the taxes of importations are insane. I believe that the next market is sustainable fashion and I try also my best to drive my brand this way, more and more every season. We have the techniques; we have the knowledge to proceed more sustainably; I believe step by step we will change the fashion industry. – Sandra Meynier Kang, designer of YESIMFRENCH, South Korea

I don’t think all consumers are aware of the negative sides of fast fashion. One of my fights is precisely to educate consumers and make them feel closer to quality materials and a local production. At the same time, it is hard to compete as a young fashion designer with higher prices than the mass market industry or high end brands which have other means of production. The Next Black documentary about the future of clothing by new technologies and sustainable products blew my mind. This is why I think the audience is just badly informed. I do believe in change, and if it’s not young designers arriving in this huge fashion industry, who will? – DORIANE VAN OVEREEM, Belgium

Having focused my design ethics on creating pieces that are against trends and commercialism, it is a great reward to finally see a shift in consumer habits. With the heightened awareness, I think the conscience of some consumers has definitely been nudged. A lot has to be said for the new celebration of menswear and how well received traditional ideas such as Savile Row tailoring have been. Hopefully, more will adopt this idea that people want longevity from their style. I definitely think we will see menswear grow into an even bigger venture and this may possibly influence the direction that womenswear takes in the future, perhaps influencing a smaller and a more limited range of garments in each collection. – CLARE PAYNE, England

Designer: DORIANE VAN OVEREEM FW14 at Opening Ceremony Photography Servan Ilyne Make-up Selin Ozdemir Model Ilse Bosch @ IMM

exhibitions

cultural schedule By Laura Wilkinson

London: Horst: Photographer of Style 6 September 2014 to 4 January 2015 Victoria & Albert Museum This September the V&A presents Horst: Photographer of Style, the definitive retrospective of the work of Horst P. Horst (1906-99), one of the 20th century’s master photographers. In a career that spanned over six decades, Horst photographed the beautiful creations of couturiers such as Chanel, Schiaparelli, and Vionnet in 1930s Paris, and helped to launch the careers of many models. “Horst was one of the greatest photographers of fashion and society,” said Martin Roth, director of the V&A. “This exhibition will shine a light on all aspects of his long and distinguished career.” New York: Killer Heels: The Art of the High-Heeled Shoe 10 September 2014 to 15 February 2015 Brooklyn Museum, NY: Robert E. Blum Gallery The exhibition will explore fashion’s most provocative accessory and feature over a hundred heels, some as old as the 17th Century, and others, present-day heels seen on runways and the red carpet. Iconic labels from Manolo Blahnik, Chanel, Christian Louboutin, Alexander McQueen, and Prada will all be presented, but I am sorry girls, these are for the museum only – you cannot take any home with you. Six short films by artists including fashion photographers Steven Klein and Nick Knight will also be on screens to showcase the world and the art of heels.

Hedi Slimane Sonic, Fondation Pierre Bergé Yves Saint Laurent 18 September 2014 - 11 January 2015

of famous names from Vogue editor Anna Wintour to artists such as Lucian Freud and Francis Bacon all from the worlds of art, fashion, stage, and screen. Nicole Farhi quotes: “The human face has always greatly interested me. I have a rather good memory for faces.” Paris: Hedi Slimane Sonic 18 September 2014 to 11 January 2015 Foundation Pierre Bergé Yves Saint Laurent Hedi Slimane’s musical archives spanning fifteen years come together at Sonic, with a strong focus on his Californian cycle that began in 2007, then spanning to London and New York. Standing alongside the alternative scenes in California and London are studio portraits of Lou Reed, Keith Richards, Amy Winehouse, and Brian Wilson. Completing the exhibition is a video installation juxtaposing the musical cycles of London (2003-2007) and California (2007-2014) in a documentary style, painting an alternative portrait of two generations of performers and their fans.

London: From the Neck Up 16 September to 3 October 2014 Bowman Sculpture Gallery Nicole Farhi will launch her very first series of sculptures, From the Neck Up. In this exhibition, Farhi has created an idiosyncratic series comprising twelve busts

exhibitions

100 years of beats By Porschia Thomas

Camera in Mirrored Box. Ultrachrome ink on paper, photograph 12 x 12 inches. Photo by William S. Burroughs, copyright Estate of William S. Burroughs

In honour of the centennial birthday year of the late William S. Burroughs, this winter from December 4th to January 24th the October Gallery in London has dedicated an exhibit to the father of the Beat Generation. The exhibit will highlight Burroughs’ intersection and lasting influence on UK artists and display his writing along with a collection of his paintings. Featured in a number of exhibits and archives internationally, this year British author Barry Miles lauded and wrote a biography of Burroughs.

Ulysses not too late to seek a new world, 1992. Paint and spray on paper, 53 x 49 cm. Photo by Jonathan Greet, copyright Estate of William S. Burroughs

To say that Burroughs was a conflicted soul would be an understatement. He drew much of his inspiration from his sheltered Ivy League upbringing, lifelong affair with heroin, and haunting accidental murder of his own wife. Burroughs represented the other side of the 1950s American youth culture: the rebellious unconventionalists. Known colloquially as the Beat Generation, what set them apart was their willingness to blatantly go against the grain. Pushing back against the conservative post-WWII American ideals, Burroughs stood tall as a homosexual, married, Harvard graduate, heroin addict, writer, and painter all wrapped into one perfectly imperfect package. In true British style, Burroughs’ work is satirical, rebellious, and frank. Through art Burroughs gained just enough distance from himself to collide with his fears whilst tip-toeing through his own personal addiction. Burroughs drew on his own struggles with drug addiction and is most famous for his acclaimed novel, Junkie, a semi-autobiographical account of the struggles of an addict. The novel, like most of his work, is positively contagious. While he was never directly a part of the Beat Generation, his perplexing life and work characterized it. He had close personal relationships with Beat Generation artists Allen Ginsberg, Jack Kerouac, and Gregory Corso. He was also a key liaison in the spreading of the beat to London and the “Beat Hotel” in Paris during his 15 year stay there from 1959. Standing tall and flawed in a time when life and love were dictated by society, his legacy and influence upon art, culture and media has been long lasting and undeniably going against the beat.

Paris Wall & posters, 1961. Ultrachrome ink on paper 12x12 inches. Photo by William S. Burroughs, copyright Estate of William S. Burroughs

William S. Burroughs Exhibition at the October Gallery, 24 Old Gloucester Street, Bloomsbury, London WC1N, 4 December 2014 - 24 January 2015

music

ones to watch: part company By Cécilia Bonnet

Babar music video, directed by Ramon Ayala

Is mystery underrated? Nowadays everybody knows everything right away, through the (annoying) beauty of instantaneity. So we listen to a song, we forget it and then we listen to another, catching the newest sounds and the freshest trends in the air. Next! But then again, some like to take their time and leave things in the dark for a while... The first time I heard of Part Company was in late 2011 when a friend shared a video on a social network, of course. The video for the song “Babar” (directed by Ramon Ayala) was perfect to arouse my curiosity. A strange camp of men and women in the desert, naked yoga, colorful powders and veils fluttering in slow motion. A bizarre little world ruled by an elephant-headed deity. References converge and confuse: we think of Ganesha, of the Indian color festival, of Alejandro Jodorowsky’s mystic films. We think of the “rainbow gatherings” of hippies in the 70s. Indeed, this suave pop track sounds vintage but the production is definitely modern. For a few months, the single played on a couple of French radios stations, during which their debut EP Babar was released, compiling 4 songs and a remix. Then nothing. Just desert. It gave us time to dig around the sand. Part Company is a French duo made up of Yoel S. and Damien S., they like “sea life, Italian food, and Art Deco,” and they’re based between NYC, Nice, and Berlin. Even locating them isn’t an easy task, though they have found a place to call home at Green United Music, a French record label that has proven its good instinct with artists such as Woodkid, The Shoes, and Herman Dune. Promising, but we won’t get to know much more just yet. The EP is a colorful jewel with different facets where their sound oscillates between sensual psyche-pop (“Babar”), 60s sweetness (“Out of Egypt”), the post-punk chaos of the spirited “Telephone Pole Trunk,” and ends on a soulful indie ballad, “You Love it because it Pulls.” Part Company is high on a rich pop-rock heritage echoing The Stones, The Doors, Syd Barrett, and Brian Jonestown Massacre. Melodies are heady, ruptures are refined and voices glide; Part Company’s men experiment but they don’t get lost in their psychedelic wanderings. It’s been a few years since and information remains scarce. Suddenly “Babar” is out again, along with a Yves Saint Laurent worldwide campaign. People are asking “who is this?” Now we’ve learned that the mysterious duo are polishing off their first album, to be released “soon, very soon,” hopefully by the end of 2014. Be ready to see if they keep their promise, we’ve learned a lesson in the desert: patience. facebook.com/ wearepartcompany

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dream pop daughter: q&a with owlle Headpiece by LAURENCE BOSSION Top by LÉA PECKRE FOR MAISON LEJABY Fur stole by CORBIER AGOSTINI

By Charin Chong Photography Yuji Watanabe Styling Anna Barr Styling Assistant Ophélie Lecorcier Hairstyling Yumiko Hikage Make-up Camille Lutz

Step into the night with Owlle, the French “dream pop“ singer-songwriter causing quite a stir in the music industry with her debut album France (a homage to her real name, France Picolet, and her country of origin), released earlier this year. A nocturnal creature with fiery red hair, her melancholic yet danceworthy electro tunes have gained her the attention of legends Depeche Mode, who requested her to remix their track “Heaven.“ Imagery, style, and music fall hand in hand in Owlle’s universe, but what else can we expect from someone with a background in fine arts? Though she’s been compared to Bat for Lashes and Lykke Li, her ominous storytelling and entrancing vocals have carved a name for herself all over Europe. After our photoshoot, we sit down with Owlle to talk about her music, inspirations, and her magical duet with Boy George. Congratulations on the launch of your debut album France earlier this year! How was the journey leading up to its release? How has the response been so far? It’s been a really exciting time but also quite a stressful one. Delivering to the public something that was intimate to me is a very particular feeling. I am happy because it seems like the public has not been disappointed and I think that each song has taken on its own meaning. Throughout the process, I tried to stay true to myself and not denaturalize my own universe. You describe your music as ”Dream Pop.” How would you elaborate your sound to those who are not yet familiar with your music?

It’s a melancholic pop, at times dreamy and danceable. It’s not an inaccessible type of music because there’s something intuitive and immediate to it. Of course, it’s up to the public to decide if they wish to embrace it or not. We love your unique stage name and for those who do not know, could you share with us the story of how you chose ”Owlle” as your stage name? It’s actually part of a very simple story. 5 years ago, I came across the word Owl and I found this word to be really graphic, more so than just through its signification. Then when I understood what it meant, I told myself that it was the exact animal that best defined

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me. I work essentially at night, and the majestic side to this animal really attracted me. I feminized the word in French (with -le) and it became Owlle. Before becoming a musician, you studied scenography and video at the École des Beaux Arts in Paris. How did your journey transform from art into music? Does your visual arts background still play a strong part in your music today? The journey started when I discovered the work of Brian Eno in 2005 during the Biennale d’Art Contemporain in Lyon. I understood at that moment that I could mix music and art together to define my own language of expression. All of my background in art still influences me today and does not cease in helping me create my music. All these aspects inspire one another and I rely on them to be able to tell my stories and to give them form. You mention Madonna, Portishead, and more importantly Brian Eno as your main influences. What is it about his work that made the most impact on you? To me, Brian Eno represents a total artist, from the fact that he created installations of music and that everything he did seemed to intertwine without encountering the trouble of wearing multiple ”hats.” Madonna, Portishead, and many other musicians are also important to me, but I was influenced by them more in a musical sense. I learned a lot by reproducing and singing their songs. It was a method of deconstructing and understanding the composition of their melodies, even if I was never formally trained in music.

Jacket by JONATHAN LIANG Skirt and lingerie by LÉA PECKRE FOR MAISON LEJABY Necklace by AND_I

You recently shared the stage with Boy George on the Taratata

Fur coat by PELLESSIMO Top by LÉA PECKRE FOR MAISON LEJABY Pants by JEAN PAUL GAULTIER Ring by AND_I

TV show, performing a fantastic duet of Karma Chameleon. What was that experience like for you? It was such an incredible moment and an immense opportunity for me. It was a dream come true to have access to such a musical icon. The humility and the kindness of this great man helped me to put things into perspective. When I see young artists today who think that they have everything figured out, I say to myself that doing a duet with George wouldn’t be that bad for them. Your album France features a mix of melancholic, trance-like songs like ”Disorder” and ”Fog” combined with more upbeat tempo dance tracks like ”Ticky Ticky,” and almost feels like a journey through the 80s and 90s. Is there a specific theme behind this debut album? There isn’t a specific theme because each song comes from a very different moment. Sure, in the lyrics there are things that are repetitive because I think that the act of writing is a method of expressing what we’re missing, what we desire and more. The songs are all quite melancholic, it’s a style that really touches me and through this I'm able to compose and tell all of these little stories. But I also leave enough space and abstraction so that everyone can find their own interpretation, their own meaning. You’ve previously collaborated with designers like Jean Paul Lespagnard and Maison Martin Margiela. What are some of your other favorite designers? How would you describe your personal style? I really like Alexander McQueen, I would have loved to work together with him. There is something surrealist in his pieces. Alaïa as well, for elegance. Other than that, I try to stay aware of what’s happening so when younger or more renown designers move me, I follow. Being a self-taught musician, what has been your best experience in the process of writing and creating your debut album? The best part for me, and what is really brilliant, is that of creating. Through this I get to discover and let myself be carried by something magical and intangible. The production aspect is really great,

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but it is more controlled and this can sometimes be quite stressful to not be able to pinpoint the essence of a song.

If you could spread one message through your music that could reach every single person in the world, what would that be?

You performed in UK, Brazil, Denmark, and Switzerland. How has your experience been outside of France? Where else would you like to perform?

That you are not alone. Music is a great way to bring people together.

I've just recently discovered China, and this is something that I really enjoy because I feel so fortunate to be able to travel and share my music around the world. I would love to do a tour in the US and then to go back to perform a little more in England, which I really love. What can we expect from Owlle in the future? How do you see yourself transforming? It’s still early for me to speak about this, but obviously I’m thinking about my second album and I think that there are quite a few things that will evolve. I am not saying that I will change, but I have grown from all these ”first time” experiences and so this will probably be reflected in my future songs, at least I hope so.

If you could spend the day with a musician dead or alive, who would it be? David Bowie, Franck Ocean, or Kate Bush. . Lastly, what’s one thing that terrifies you, and one thing that excites you? I’m scared of not being able to compose, or to lose the motivation to do so. I’m excited by the thought of taking a plane to go perform somewhere. If not that, then macarons :) You can catch Owlle’s next live concert at La Gaité Lyrique in Paris on September 20th. Visit owlle.com for more information about her album and tour dates.

What music are you currently listening to? Right now I’m listening to Brook Candy! Her last EP is killer. Where is your favorite place that you’d recommend to hang out in Paris? The L’Hotel du Temps in the 9th arrondissement, Paris.

Hat by HARRY HALIM Bolero by 1828 BY ZOEPPRITZ Leotard by VETEMENTS Skirt by IRFE Gloves and bracelet by AND_I Shoes by GROUND ZERO

“The songs are all quite melancholic, it’s a style that really touches me... But I leave enough space and abstraction so that everyone can find their own interpretation, their own meaning.” - Owlle 12

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plutonian sounds of nubia By Pete Buckenham

The riches of London’s diverse cultures and society are present for those who want to hear, see, and embrace them. It is a choice though; you could be on the “right road, going the wrong direction“ as Sun Ra used to say. The Mothership from the future has landed carrying the outer galactic sounds and philosophy of Sun Ra. Its façade is decorated as a Jean-Michel Basquiat canvas, and is fueled across dimensions by the verbiage of Octavia Estelle Butler. As the Planet Earth’s cosmopolitan capital, London offers fertile ground for Afro-diasporic culture to be propagated, reinterpreted, mutated, and reborn. There’s nothing new with international sound pressure being nurtured, distilled, and released from the fertile bed of London’s nightlife and forward thinking record labels. The current generation of artists, groups, DJs, and producers, as well as the labels, promoters, and audiences backing them appear more eclectic than those that have previously been manifest on the city’s soundscape. Amongst the tawdry array of vacuous hipster noise on one side, & manufactured PR’d pop mediocrity polluting our eyes and ears on the other, there is a significant body of artists pushing creative boundaries. No need to dredge the underground, twee World circuit or connect to the nightlife of a particular diaspora to hear the African influence informing a sci-fi future. Leading indie label Hyperdub has just released a definitive Afrofuturistic release, The Phoenix from King Britt as Fhloston Paradigm. Ninja Tune is constantly evolving and the forthcoming debut LP from Romare promises to cut a new seam of flavour directly from the City’s more adventurous BASSments. Romare signed to Ninja after his two E.P.s, released on the Black Acre imprint, demonstrated an astute ability to satisfy hard dance floors whilst layering tracks with diverse influences from traditional African rhythms to the pillars of jazz, such as Airto Moreira. Black Acre too are pushing things forwards and Clap! Clap! epitomize the lava flow while journeyman beatsmith, DJ iZem is responsible for adding a shot of tropical to the global temperature. Conversations about Africa still begin with accepted negative stereotypes and clichéd generalizations. Afrofuturism alone won’t be able to build a positive narrative about the continent, its many countries, intellectual and cultural diversity or its many histories. It does, however, offer a beginning from which misrepresentation and histories can be brought into dialogue and demystified. The idea dates back to the 1970s and was brought to the forefront with Detroit techno in the early 90s. The movement is now about a sense of African experiences globally. It is a continent whose narrative will be at the forefront of many creative futures.

Two of my favourite bands provide prime examples of traditional roots music being mutated into new forms by forward thinking artists. Even though the occupied territories of Western Sahara have been something of a second home over the last decade, I first heard the Saharan psychedelia of Group Doueh in Sounds of the Universe, THE record shop of my native Soho. Group Doueh are a Saharan wedding band that have expanded the traditional desert trance sound by incorporating the genius of Jimi Hendrix. Rather than boasting a full passport, it suggests I should have saved my airfares by spending even more time digging through crates. This austere practicality was gladly opposed when I first heard the Owiny Sigoma

Band at a beach festival in Zanzibar, during a year traversing the night lives of urban African scenes. The method of combining virtuoso players of traditional roots instruments, from Kenyan nyatiti and Luo music with the best of Western songwriting and London-based production techniques, has created a soundclash setting benchmarks miles ahead. A third album is imminent. Expect another knockout blow from Brownswood’s superlative Owiny Sigoma Band, of which maestro Jesse Hackett can be heard elsewhere in eclectic songs for Blludd Relations, Africa Express and a solo project that channels rogue Sun Ra spirit and scrapyard keyboard wizardry. Soundway Records have also intrepidly sought to shift musical horizons. The label has laid a solid reputation by compiling music from the heydays of past scenes and, in doing so, has influenced new audiences with their superbly curated releases. Their frontier cavalry is an impressive stable of contemporary acts that represents the quality of London’s tropical sound and none more so than Ibibio Sound Machine. Their self-titled debut was released just a short breath after the critically acclaimed collaboration from Débruit & Alasarah. Make sure you check Alsarah’s project with the Nubatones that is out now on NYC head Nickodemus’ Wonderwheel Recordings. There are monstrous expectations for the second LP from the mighty Batida that will no doubt continue to bring a fevered breed of Portuguese house music and Angolan kudoro. Eclectic favourites Wah Wah 45s will be announcing London’s Afrobeat King, Dele Sosimi’s forthcoming album any time now. While on the subject of 45s, Mukatsuku have been polishingup and reissuing dance floor gems from across Africa and further afield for the last eight years. The most recent Mukatsuku to drop was a rare 10” of the highlife funk sound of Orlando Julius & His Afro Sounders with “James Brown Rides On.” Orlando Julius has also stepped it up, out and into a cosmic Afrofuture-desert-spaceway. The astounding collaboration with the Heliocentrics is due for immediate atomospheric re-entry. Is there space to mention the debut LP Instead from Collocutor? Beyond genres and borders to otherworldly leaps and journeying of quantum inner space, Instead is a debut album of distinction that is a prelude to dawn, Earth days, and beginnings of tomorrow. The Collocutor ensemble is sourced, and draws inspiration from beyond the four corners to cast new forms into the City’s night. Collocutor is led and directed by the artistically versatile, talented, and seemingly omni-present, Tamar Osborn. Tamar can be spotted on a stage most nights of the week as part of the Fontanelles (First Word Records), Kelis’ live band, Africa Express, and a host of others. The sounds of London are moving into the future, oh, and of course, a strong contender for many DJ’s LP of the year is the rising star with Mauritian roots and a Peckham glow, Mo Kolours. If all this gives you the urge to check back then dig into Art Yard’s reissue series of Sun Ra rarities, Marshall Allen presents Sun Ra and His Arkestra In The Orbit of Ra (Art Yard / Strut) and a new Salah Ragab Heavy Weight 45 A Tribute To Sun Ra / Latino In Cairo due on shelves in limited numbers round about now. Space Aura by Sun Ra and His Band from Outer Space was reissued for his Earth centenary back in May. Another pillar of Arkological omniversal vibing is the DJ/curator Black Classical. His twelve hour Sun Ra radio transmission is available online and there for your edification. Whilst reaching for the stars make sure you hear them too. Peaces and futurism – A.F. NOMAD.

ASSA wears: Scarf by APOLOGIE Headpiece by ODETTE BOMBARDIER Skirt by TALBOT RUNHOF

afrofuture Photography Corinne Stoll Styling Charlotte Moreau Styling Assistant Camille Bodinier Make-up ChloĂŠ Briand Models Assa @ WM, Ba @ City, Bakay @ Bananas, Mael @ The Face

MAEL wears: Scarf (head) by ANDREA CREWS Sunglasses by MYKITA X BERNHARD WILLHELM Necklace by ODETTE BOMBARDIER Jumper by SANKUANZ

BA wears: Headpiece by CHARLIE LE MINDU Jacket by MARYME-JIMMYPAUL Skirt by TALBOT RUNHOF

MAEL wears: Headpiece by HOUSE OF FLORA Dress by NACO PARIS BAKAY wears: Sunglasses by DITA Dress by VENERA ARAPU

BA wears: Cape by MANISH ARORA Necklace by THINGS

ASSA wears: Scarf (on head) by ANDREA CREWS Necklaces (on head) by CAROLINE BAGGI Earring by HOUSE OF FLORA Top by NACO PARIS Necklace AMBRE ET LOUISE

BAKAY wears: Cap by HOUSE OF FLORA Necklace by THINGS Fur scarf by PELLESSIMO

MAEL wears: Vintage Helmet Necklace by THINGS Jacket by SONGZIO Thanks VALENTIN MOEBS for the helmet

ASSA wears: Hat by HOUSE OF FLORA Top by ISSEY MIYAKE Trousers & sneakers by MANISH ARORA BAKAY wears: Neck accessory by TSOLO MUNKH Leggings by MANISH ARORA Sneakers by SANKUANZ MAEL wears: Helmet by ANNE SOFIE MADSEN Trousers by ÉTUDES Sneakers by SANKUANZ

BA wears: Mask by HOUSE OF FLORA White necklace by VIVEKA BERGSTRÖM Black leather necklace by THINGS Long necklace with bells by TSOLO MUNKH Top by AURELIE DEMEL Bracelets HELENE ZUBELDIA Trousers by VENERA ARAPU Shoes by FRED MARZO

ASSA wears: Sunglasses by MYKITA Coat by CORBIER AGOSTINI Trousers by MARYME-JIMMYPAUL

music

hyena howls: a rebirth for red snapper By Pete Buckenham Illustration by Joachim Sperl Red Snapper’s new album Hyena froths with imagination when chewing the cinematic, or snarling with their dirge electronica and unrelenting signature drums of Richard Thair. This is the band’s eighth LP and it burns a strong blueprint for their evolution. A myriad of directions all get a start on Hyena and it’s unclear which one the band will pursue. For my ears, “Wonky Bike” is the pivotal track on Hyena. The percussion runs to a balaphone-style instrument and the rhythm is layered with glitchy fuzz, reminiscent of the band at their experimental best. There’s a hint to their beginnings and a comparison due to their equally excellent US counterpart Sukia, a Californian fug produced by the Dust Brothers. Red Snapper flex their psych desert credentials with ease. The influence of their recent project, live soundtracking the classic 70s film, Touki Bouki is overt. If you’ve never heard of the film, get digging as it’s a Senegalese road movie worth making a trip with. Hyena was inspired by that

project and is the unifying strand running through the styles, moods, and experiments presented here. “Dock Running” is vintage Red Snapper that swings as though it’s cut from the same horizon as Whitefield Brother productions and even Karl Hector. “Lassoo” provides a soundscape to a hammock, tightly-knit opiated comfort, ethereal journeying, enticing, and filmic. The ability to create these canvases is the qualifier for Red Snapper scoring more visual projects in the future. The cine qualities continue with the elliptical “Mambety,” though the vocal direction is at odds to what I find so compelling in Red Snapper’s work. This track steers them to an approach on the realm of shoe gazers such as Anthony and the Johnsons. Though competently executed, the vocal tracks in their current application are conservatively moored. In contrast, the beginning of “Archout” is

Red Snapper at their most urgent, with a banging, edgy frontier. Hyena finishes with “No Exit” which gets into its own halfway through. The horn is ill at ease and noticeably uneasy in its surroundings. Red Snapper present an interesting work that hints at new directions. Hyena is perhaps a segue to the band’s next frontier, one that can lead to the clearly defined excellence and urgent potency of their foundations. Once the celebrations of this release subside, one of the many starts piloted here should be brought to fruition. I hope the band marries their itch for cinematic musings to belting drums and basement electronica.

plastic soul Photography Valeria Mitelman Styling Valerie Oster Hair and Make-up Karina Berg working with products from Toptress Perucken Model Veranika Tsybulskaya @ m4models Shot on Location in Berlin

Coat, shirt, and pants by JULIAN ZIGERLI Socks and shoes Stylist's own

Glasses by JIL SANDER (seen at Vintage Galore Berlin) Shirt and pants by MICHAEL SONTAG Boots by VLADIMIR KARALEEV

Dress by MARTIN NIKLAS WIESER Coat by ETHEL VAUGHN Shoes by MONKI

Dress by MARTIN NIKLAS WIESER Coat by ETHEL VAUGHN

Sweater by WEEKDAY Pants by ETHEL VAUGHN Ring and necklace by BJØRG

Sweater by ANTONIA GOY Shorts by MARTIN NIKLAS WIESER Shoes by REALITY STUDIO

accessories

fall accessories: space dame

By Jessica Cooper

2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

1. Sunglasses by Malene Oddershede Bach 2. Top Preen by Thornton Bregazzi FW14 3. Necklace by Tatty Devine 4. Bracelet by Clémentine Henrion 5. Ankle Boot by United Nude 6. Bag by Malene Oddershede Bach 7. Ring by Maria Francesca Pepe 8. Scarf by Clémentine Henrion

fashion

in the atelier with fyodor golan By Elizabeth Aaron Photos by Hanako Whiteway

Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman are the designers behind FYODOR GOLAN. In 2011, FYODOR GOLAN won Fashion Fringe in London and in 2012 they became the youngest label to present its collections during Fashion In Motion at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London. Describing the FYODOR GOLAN aesthetic as both “Fragile and fearless,” they bring this Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde mentality to each collection, experimenting with exciting contrasts in shape, texture, and form. How do you develop the FYODOR GOLAN aesthetic in a way that pushes you creatively while remaining accessible for buyers? Fyodor: It’s very important to have a clear voice so they see you and they get it immediately. The catwalk has become a sales platform where you need to be ready to buy straight away. Golan: They want you to have a niche – some sort of a color, a print – a very, very recognizable handprint. Colin McDowell said something very interesting about looking at a collection as if it were made entirely in calico and asking yourself if there is a unique voice there, before you start applying the prints, colors, and embroideries. That’s something that is very much in our DNA – we want to have that unique voice in the shape, patterns, and seaming but also in the colors, textures, and fabrics. What are elements of the FYODOR GOLAN handprint that have emerged over time? How have they evolved? Fyodor: We usually incorporate a lot of geometrical elements. So it’s really working with a shape rather than darting things, to eliminate unnecessary elements. This season is new with the layering. Before it was a silhouette, a direct language. Now we are throwing things together and making it relatable. This collection is almost coming with subtitles – you can read it and retranslate it in your own way. It’s in the language of the person that wears it. Golan: It’s chameleon – you can take it and turn it around. A lot of people don’t realize that a look has three or four items on it. We love the traditional ways of making clothes, but I think for young designers it is up to us to bring fresh air into design. We are thinking about what makes it lighter to wear – not from a weight point of view, but not overworked. Fyodor: We're almost deconstructing it in a way, because it needs to feel raw. We like leather that has a raw edge to it or sewing a zip onto things, exposing the material and working with the material rather than covering it up.

fashion

In FW14 “Crocodile” the material is very modern, in “Electric Children” SS14 there was a lot of snakeskin. Did it feel too direct to use as much leather? Golan: We were fascinated by a lot of technical materials and new age materials and just really wanted to explore it. I think it was also about that wrinkly, traveller feeling. Textured. Fyodor: We look at the base of the collection as tradition. With new age materials you can break new ground – foiling leather with paper and all these new technologies that can translate these traditions in a new way. It’s another contrast we bring to our label, we do handwork and work with Swarovski, but we apply them in a new way, layering them and using something technical. What relationship do you have with clients in fittings? Is there an element of transformation and play in that process? Golan: Our bespoke service is an important part of our business. They come to us because they want to own a piece of our design perspective. Obviously, everyone has their own perspective of their body and proportion. So it’s about respecting the client’s desires without compromising the aesthetic. We call it “Advanced Cocktail Wear.” It’s almost architectural. Fyodor: Clients come to us with bits and pieces from the collection that they love and it’s like working with puzzle pieces. We create a dialogue, propose and create a new, balanced garment for them. How do you think designer’s influences have changed with time? Fyodor: There is no need for inspiration to be so direct anymore. It’s everything and nothing. It’s always a combination of things and now it needs to be even more abstract. You need to break all the rules and walls of how to build your collection. It’s very intuitive. People react when they see things, they just like it or not. The world is so mixed so its very hard to pinpoint. This mess comes all together, you can put things together that are unexpected. And people are open-minded; they wish and want to wear extraordinary things.

Designers Golan Frydman (left) and Fyodor Podgorny

Golan: We are visual people and we live in a visual time. You see things that are happening all over the world so the influences are merged together. What I find really inspiring is boys’ street style. I think there’s something unexpected and fun in the way we bring it to our collections. Fyodor: It’s that fragility with adolescence, in a way. I like that in adolescence there is no sex in it, it’s kind of on the verge of discovery. Golan: Linking into that adolescent, boyish attitude in street style and how to dress is something that struck us as amazing, like when we took a ride on this traditional longboat on a lake in Myanmar. When it started to rain, the driver handed us an umbrella – and it was a Justin Bieber umbrella. So you’re on this wooden longboat with Justin Bieber faces all around you. It’s such a random, unexpected combination. Everything’s multicultural. Fyodor: It’s almost like everything that’s wrong, everything that we used to think was wrong, is really coming now and we want to explore it. We were raised against it and now we want to explore it – everything that’s wrong and bad is coming back. That’s what is interesting as well. Everything coming into the story. Golan: That is the new direction. Let’s have everything. Fyodor: Let’s be greedy! Golan: Everything-in-ism.

Hat by BAS KOSTERS Scarf by LEUTTON POSTLE Dress by NA-DI

everything was a glitz Photography Hanako Whiteway Styling Gabrielle Stival Hairstyling & Make-up Bonnie Lake Model Chris Arundel @ Storm Models

Gold chain by MARIA FRANCESCA PEPE Yellow woven chain by ONLY CHILD Dress by CLARA MARTIN Trousers by BAS KOSTERS Shoes by MALENE ODDERSHEDE BACH Socks stylist's own Opposite page: Earrings & trousers by CHRISTIAN COWAN-SANLUIS Top by AMERICAN APPAREL Jacket by CLON8

Hat by MARIA FRANCESCA PEPE Jacket by UNDER Fur scarf by CLEMENTS RIBEIRO Trousers by LEUTTON POSTLE Shoes by UNDERGROUND

Sunglasses by SPANGLED Necklace by MARIA FRANCESCA PEPE Shirt by THANH CONG VU Vest (worn underneath) by JANE BOWLER Trousers by KRISTIAN STEINBERG

Hat by CHRISTIAN COWAN-SANLUIS Necklace by ONLY CHILD Top by MARIA SOROMENHO Coat by LEUTTON POSTLE Skirt by CLON8 Shoes by UNDERGROUND

Hat by AMERICAN APPAREL Scarf by MYMINK Jacket by BEAU HOMME Jumpsuit by M-SEW

Headpiece by FUMBALINAS Fur scarf by CLEMENTS RIBEIRO Mesh top by TZUJI Vest (black & gold) by TIM RYAN Orange gloves by BAS KOSTERS Orange dress by LEUTTON POSTLE

fashion

peter jensen: fall special Left to right: Designer Peter Jensen, Faye Dunaway inspiration, PETER JENSEN FW14

London-based, Danish-born designer PETER JENSEN celebrates individualism by standing out among a crowd of fashion tribes. Jensen’s background in tailoring and immaculate construction mingles alongside his playful prints. Known for having a wide range of female muses every season and making clothes that women want to wear, this fall sees the collection inspired by Hollywood legend, Faye Dunaway. His pieces exhale old Hollywood glamour with references from the little Florida girl from the wrong side of the tracks making the silver screen jump in Chinatown, The Thomas Crown Affair, and Network. Who wouldn’t dream of passing the winter days lounging next to a West Hollywood pool? Bit too cold for that in London and Paris? Do like Faye and add a beret!

book George Orwell’s Animal Farm.

club God, I never really go out, sorry!

movie I really like old films and right now I’m watching all my

cocktail Is Gin and Tonic a cocktail? I love a good G&T.

musician I’m very into Solange and Edda Magnason.

I would love to travel around the UK staying in old B&Bs, or L.A. I love L.A.

song Trubbel by Monica Zetterlund.

designer Old Martin Margiela, the last time something great

favorite Hitchcock films from The 39 steps, Rebecca, to Lifeboat.

art The works of Laurie Simmons. restaurant My place when someone I care about is cooking.

destination

happened in fashion.

style icon So many, I do love looking at pictures of Nan

Kempner. For fall, I took inspiration from Faye Dunaway and right now I’m into Yoko Ono.

Jensen’s background in tailoring and immaculate construction mingles alongside his playful prints. 47

girl meets night Photography Stella Bonasoni Art Direction and Styling Fabio Mercurio Styling Assistant Andrea CarlĂ Signori Hairstyling Riccardo Lupini Make-up Isabella Sarti Model Masha Bacer @ The Fashion Model Management

Sweater by DAIZY SHELY Laser-cut skirt by PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND Tartan coat by STELLA JEAN

Knit dress by PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND, PRINCESS GRACE ARCHIVE COLLECTION Fur coat by ALBINO

Cashmere turtleneck by PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND Knit cashmere and mink coat by PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND Headpiece by I AM LIMITED EDITION BY ALESSANDRO MENGOZZI

Headpiece by I AM LIMITED EDITION BY ALESSANDRO MENGOZZI

Sweater by PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND Damask skirt and sequined coat by MARCO RAMBALDI Earrings from a selection at AFRICA DESIGN BOLOGNA

Sequined dress by ALCOOLIQUE

Cashmere turtleneck by PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND Wool macramé skirt by DAIZY SHELY Knit cashmere and mink coat by PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND Patchwork boots by GIANLUCA SOLDI Headpiece by I AM LIMITED EDITION BY ALESSANDRO MENGOZZI

Headpiece by I AM LIMITED EDITION BY ALESSANDRO MENGOZZI

Top by ISSEY MIYAKE Cuff bracelet by CATHERINE MARCHE Claw ring by IMOGEN BELFIELD Vessel sculptural ring by CATHERINE MARCHE Geometric ash ring by IMOGEN BELFIELD Shooting star ring by IMOGEN BELFIELD

color precision Photography Daniel Fraser Photography Assistant Cameron Jack Styling Jessica Richardson-Smith Hairstyling Jonathan De Francesco Make-up Roseanna Velin Model Jade McSorley @ Established models

Sheer top by ISSEY MIYAKE Gold collar necklace by RACHEL GALLERY Ferero knuckle ring by IMOGEN BELFIELD

Stole by ISSEY MIYAKE Blanche necklace by REVIVAL 18ct 'eco' Gold-plated Jealous Much? bangle by LINNIE MCLARTY

Jumper by ISSEY MIYAKE Opera ring by PEARLY

Pleated top by ISSEY MIYAKE Silver 3-finger wrap ring by LINNIE MCLARTY Vessel sculptural ring by CATHERINE MARCHE Claw ring by IMOGEN BELFIELD

Pleated top by ISSEY MIYAKE Venom bangle by RACHEL GALLERY Double shooting star ring by IMOGEN BELFIELD The Icon Shard ring by RUIFIER

art

distilled modes of expression with nick cave by damilola oshilaja

Artwork photos by James Prinz courtesy of Jack Shainman Gallery and artist Nick Cave

“I deliver deeds. My role is that of a messenger.” - Nick Cave The artist’s work broadly recalls the esoteric and aesthetic forces of native African masquerade and procession; simultaneously, in my mind, and through the artist’s work, I am beguiled by the mortal incarnation of one of Hayao Miyazaki’s anime creatures. The artist in spotlight is Nick Cave, an African-American born at the turn of the 1960s in Missouri, USA – the home of St. Louis and Kansas City. Growing up with a single mother and a number of siblings, as well as deindustrialization and the hemorrhage of jobs in 1950/60s Missouri, it couldn't have been easy growing up in the U S of A. No less a creative being found form – at the age of ten, Nick Cave credits Michael Jackson with being the sign of confirmation for an awakening; and a vision of the future creative self that is personified in Cave’s current day practice of the fine arts. Michael Jackson is an inspiration to many, but one can imagine how potent creative influence can take hold in the mind and soul; especially when it is considered that Michael was only a year older, on the appearance on the Ed Sullivan Show in 1969. It was a rarity then, and as such in similar weight to the inspirational power of the appointment of President Barrack Obama. A winner of numerous accolades and awards, Nick Cave is thriving, and lives and works in Chicago. Cave’s practice is currently represented by contemporary art heavyweight, Jack Shainman Gallery; and Cave is also director of the graduate fashion programme at School of the Art Institute of Chicago.

As quoted on the Jack Shainman Gallery website, Cave says of his work, “I was really thinking of getting us back to this dream state, this place where we imagine and think about now and how we exist and function in the world. With the state of affairs on the world, I think we tend not to take the time out to create that dream space in our heads.” With an early fascination in the found object as a background, Cave developed the know-how of textile manipulation from Kansa City Institute with a Bachelor of Art, graduating in 1982, while developing the knowledge of dance through an Alvin Alley programme in Kansas City and New York. Nick Cave also acquired a Masters degree in Fine Art from Cranbrook Academy of Art, Michigan. The artist’s work is a synthesis of various disciplines and I must confess a tendency for the appreciation of Cave’s work as I find synergies with my global view of 21st century contemporary art, through his hybridity of thinking in a creative sense. In the fashioning of the art works, Cave originated an artistic paradigm termed “Sound Suit.” These works (initiated by the Rodney King assault in Los Angeles, 1992), and other works following since employ a diverse range of materials like dyed human hair, buttons, beads, sequins, twigs, sisal, feathers, and other unorthodox materials; and are executed within a range of processes (which includes performance, installation and/or sculpture, video, and photography), that collide in the manifestation of Cave’s work.

art

I find Cave’s contemporary products as an extension of the traditional and contemporary African practice of masquerade, as can be seen in the Egungun or Eyo festivals of the Yoruba peoples of West Africa. The Eyo Festival, for instance, is an age old procession believed to have begun around 1854 as a rite and commemoration of the passing of a King. At its core is performance, dance, and costume. There is no part of the human body that is allowed to be revealed, and communication is through unique sounds. The Eyo (translated as masquerade) represent deities out of this world, summoned every couple of years to celebrate life, purify the environs; bless and punish – they are metaphoric representations of the spirits of ancestors. I see the same aesthetic and imaginative energy in Nick Cave’s work, as I do in the mentioned ceremonies of the Yoruba. In the same way that the Eyo take over the streets of the City of Lagos; Nick Cave took over Grand Central Terminal with his work HEARD • NY 2013. I regard Cave’s work as vibrant and dynamic; ancestral and innovative; political and fantasy, and when the artist laments of a sentiment exposed at age ten, that he believed he would be a star – I am inclined to agree. What is your earliest memory of the catalyst for your creative life? It was seeing Michael Jackson on the Ed Sullivan Show. It was a reflection of self and I knew I would be special like that. Not in music per se, but a superstar. Which came first as a mode of expression: dance, fashion or sound. They are all intermixed to me and can’t be separated.

What does the word “Transformative” mean to you?

How would you describe the role of the artist, and art in the 21st Century?

Change.

Today’s artist should have a civic responsibility. We can be effective in myriad way using our strengths and talents.

How important is color to your work? Can you talk about the role of color with regards to the synthesis in your work? For me color is sound. You have been working for a number of years, and there have been varying transformations to your practice; what would you say has been a constant all the while? The body. Whether it plays a central role or is implied, there is always a human presence or a humanity to be discovered. Do you use music when you work, for instance while you engineer your suits, if so what one piece of music do you keep going back to? Yes. Shirley Horn’s “Here’s to Life.” It is like a mantra. Having never visited Chicago, which place would you recommend I go to, on my first visit – a place where you have found inspiration? Chicago has inspiration around every corner. There are some great places, but it is a working man’s city and is always providing, everywhere. In ten words or less, can you say something about life as an artist? I deliver deeds. My role is that of messenger. A show featuring a new body of work by Nick Cave is opening 4th September at the Jack Shainman Gallery in New York City (513 W 20th St, New York, NY 10011), followed by another solo show at SLAM in St. Louis (1 Fine Arts Drive, St. Louis, MO 63110) at the end of October.

Photo by Sandro

art

armures By Aurélie Laurière

Since winning the Public Prize at the 29th Hyères Festival of Fashion and Photography in the south of France last April, Swiss photographer Marie Rime’s work has generated great interest. While the Public Prize doesn’t bestow a grant, it acknowledges the achievement of public praise. Strict and frontal, the series stages women dressed in colorful armors. This thorough work takes its place in a larger reflection on the relationship between power, ornament, and representation. At twenty-five, Marie just graduated from the École Cantonale d’Art de Lausanne, and has already seen her work exhibited at Galerie Azzedine Alaïa in Paris and Galleria Carla Sozzani in Milan. Modest, she says she chose photography for the reassuring freedom the media gives her. As for references, she has no limits. “Power is a bubble within which the modes of representation work independently of cultural codes, spatial or temporal benchmarks,” she explains, leading us to both mysterious and familiar compositions we can't help staring at. As for the materials, she uses what comes to hand, everyday objects she gleans in her parents’ house or in DIY stores. The result mixes banality and virtuosity: “Once they have been piled up and put together, objects lose their primary function; their shape and matter get back on top. Sometimes, we can even think they’re made of gold or silver.” A mouth, a pair of eyes, and a neck at the most: with Marie, the human body becomes a support for the object as far as to disappear under the different layers of material. Are these protective armors or revealing ornaments? For Marie, “the two end up merging.” An accomplished artwork and a young artist that we should hear more about soon.

Photos ÂŠ Marie Rime, Armures, 2013

fashion

INDONESIA RISING

Designer Heaven Tanudiredja

By Charin Chong

Throughout the past decade, we have seen a new wave of talent coming from Indonesia, with a group of amazing designers gaining momentum and international acclaim. We take a closer look at some of the designers from this unique region, ranging from seasoned names like HARRY HALIM and HEAVEN TANUDIREDJA who have established themselves in Europe, to rising star TEX SAVERIO and introducing newcomer YOSAFAT DWI KURNIAWAN. They speak to us about their journey in the fashion industry, their thoughts on the fashion landscape in Indonesia as well as their hopes for the future.

DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT: HEAVEN TANUDIREDJA HEAVEN TANUDIREDJA is an Indonesian fashion designer based in Antwerp and renowned for his sculptural statement jewelry and accessories. Born in Bali, Tanudiredja's career began at an early age. He recalls being a little boy living in his village, “I was always fascinated when I saw a beautiful object, sometimes a beautiful table or floor, even a beautiful set of Gamelan (Indonesian traditional music instrument) that my grandfather owned.” He graduated from the prestigious Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp and before launching his namesake label in 2007, had previous worked in the studios of Christian Dior Haute Couture, Dries Van Noten, and John Galliano. His distinct style and handmade designs have been widely praised internationally, being featured in numerous fashion magazines and spurring various collaborations with other innovative designers like Iris Van Herpen, Juun J., and Dries Van Noten. Speaking of his experience with these fashion maestros, he states, “It is always nice to learn how they see things and how their ideas develop into final works. I've learnt very much from each collaboration, but I do what I feel is right when it comes to my own collections, which is very different from when I collaborated with someone else.” Heaven Tanudiredja FW14

He had his most memorable experience in 2009, when he got to meet Rei Kawakubo from Comme des Garçons, during his first showroom in Paris. “She came in by accident to the wrong showroom, but she stayed for a while to look and touch the jewelry. She has been my hero since I saw Comme des Garçons for the first time in Italian Vogue in the early 90s, so it was a very, very nice coincidence that she came to see the jewelry by accident.” After having moved to Paris and Florence after his studies at the Academy, the designer was drawn back to the silentness of Antwerp. “Antwerp is the second city after Bali where I feel completely myself.” Though he doesn't follow much of the current Indonesian fashion scene today, he shares that he used to work as an assistant designer at Biyan in Indonesia when he was 16, until the day that he arrived in Antwerp. “I have tremendous respect for him and his work, and how his brand developed so elegantly and respectfully. It was Biyan who advised me to pursue my studies in Antwerp.” Tanudiredja takes inspiration from what he feels at the moment, like a social phenomenon that becomes personal to him and allows him to express his personality. HEAVEN TANUDIREDJA'S current FW14 collection examines the themes and ideas of what is beauty, the expression and movement of feeling beautiful. He incorporates forms of women's figures into his statement pieces, combining them with chains to take on the silhouette of orchids and human bone structures. His ear ornaments are sculpted with jewels, inspired “from all the whispering that I hear.” As his brand continues to develop, Tanudiredja notes that he used to make 8-12 pieces of jewelry that he presented to buyers when he first started out. Only in 2011 did he start make 45 piece collections and these days, his team makes almost 80 pieces per season. “The more buyers that carry the collections, the more choices we have to make. I also let buyers choose color combinations and if they have special things they want added, because in general I don't like seeing the same pieces from one designer in every shop.” His advice for newer designers is to never give up, and find a way to pursue the right studies in the right university. “That is where the opportunities begin and it is up to us how we choose to use them when they are in front of us. To work in Europe, US, or in Indonesia is the same, focus on what we can do as a designer.” Looking ahead, HEAVEN TANUDIREDJA hopes to hire more artisans in the future, to keep making pieces that are both sculptural and exciting. heaventanudiredja.be

Photography Quentin Caffier / Styling Véronique Mbida Hairstyling Sébastien Fleury / Make-up Sarah Mierau Photography Assistant Victor Habchy Model Juliette @ Karin Models

RISING STAR: TEX SAVERIO 2014 has been quite a memorable year for luxury couturier, TEX SAVERIO who is quickly becoming a rising star in the international fashion scene with his magnificent designs. He presented his first FW14 collection this past March on the official Paris Fashion Week calendar and his creations have been worn by many A-list celebrities, such as Jennifer Lawrence in the film Hunger Games: Catching Fire. Saverio shares, “I am delighted that people take these stories as historical moments in the Indonesian fashion industry, as well as in the brand’s history. It takes ambition to believe that this is a market we can reach, as the industry is still developing itself and some might perceive this as an unreachable dream. These experiences have been a way for me to say that we can open that door and deliver a message about who we are.” TEX SAVERIO first created his luxury line after graduating from Bunka and Phalie Studio in Jakarta, officially debuting in 2010 through his TEX SAVERIO PRIVÉ label oriented toward haute couture. He began drawing when he was very young and it soon became a passion. In 2011, he was named as the most talented young fashion designer by Amica Indonesia Awards, prior to the launch of his ready-to-wear label with business partner, Faye Liu. Saverio's FW14 collection is inspired by the concept of his couture collection, Exoskeleton. The showpieces brought a theatrical and dramatic atmosphere while the sales pieces are dedicated to sophisticated and unapologetic women. The catwalk gave us a peek into the designer's romantic, dark ambience, featuring a large range of pieces that highlight the rich details and techniques that Saverio is best known for. He explains, “I like to play with 3D textures through embroidery and laser cutting. Being part of the Swarovski collective also impacted my collections by adding a new visual dimension. I also like working with certain fabrics that bring a contrast such as stingray.” On the transformation of his collections from one season to the next, keeping his signature aesthetic is the real challenge for him and his team. “We learn everyday about people’s needs and expectations in the different markets that surround us. It is necessary to understand our client’s behavior and their wishes. It's also crucial for both the Design and Business side of the industry to be aware of this and work together closely to fulfill consumer desires. I am part of the new generation, but I definitely think that we are growing, and we are growing fast. We are finally realizing the importance of building the industry with strong pillars that also include business support, technical support, and financial support.” One of Saverio's best memories is was during the development process of his ready-to-wear collections. “My team and I are a very bonded, we are together on this journey and we all transformed this into an incredible adventure. We share ideas, comments, and

Top by ASOS BLACK Skirt by TEX SAVERIO Shoes by AIDA

always work together to improve the statement we want to make through each piece. I have learned and improved in a lot of fields. I have discovered new techniques and also stepped into a market that is international. Learning about a country's expectations, culture as well as seasonal anticipation gave me a new perception of Fashion, and allowed me to see the world from different angles.” For younger designers, Saverio feels that it is time for everyone to start working hand in hand, giving their best to make the fashion industry in Indonesia proud of their designers and helping the industry perform and grow in the right direction. “We are the future and we are building it with our hands.” Looking towards the future, Saverio has quite a lot of projects in mind. “Stepping in my atelier excites me, every day is a new experience, where new ideas are going to be born. There are a lot of exciting things coming up, but mostly we will try to grow faster and stronger by always telling the world where we come from. We are honored to be on the Official Calendar for another season next to the big players, and I look forward to show SS15 with success.” Designer Tex Saverio

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DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT: HARRY HALIM

Inside Harry Halim's atelier

Designer HARRY HALIM is based in Paris, where in 2010 he was invited to debut at Paris Fashion Week, being the first Indonesian designer ever to be part of the prestigious Official Calendar. This remains one of the designer's favorite highlights of his career after he successfully launched his first womenswear collection in Singapore in 2006. It proved to be a golden year for Halim as he also won the Asian Fashion Designer award that year and was announced at the Mercedes-Benz Asia Fashion Awards, building up a strong following of international buyers and press alike. These events were the catalysts that inspired him to continue pursuing what he wanted to do. Halim graduated from the Lasalle College of Arts in Singapore in Art and Design, something the designer continues to implement in his concepts and collections. “When we design something, we always need some kind of art concept to build up the design aspect so there is always a link between the both. When I'm designing, I'm always looking at something artistically before developing it into a fashion design.” Before relocating to Paris permanently, he travelled back and forth between Paris and Singapore, but it didn't take him long to fall in love with Paris and he made the decision to start his brand in the magical city of lights. “As you know, people in the fashion industry want to be in Paris, although I think it's one of the toughest places to be in this industry. Being based in Paris always brings your image as a designer to another level. Once you're in it, you just have to keep going and keep chasing what you want to do, and it's going to be great no matter where you go.” His FW14 collection is entitled, The Raven, carrying through his signature sharp, geometric silhouettes and drawing inspiration from the somber illustrations of Harry Clarke, as well as the designer's obsession with the silhouette of a crow. “The beak, shape, and the shadow of the crow is applied to the collection, especially in the cut out of skirts and jackets, and the sharp pointed forms at the back of them.” HARRY HALIM'S dark, romantic aesthetic is derived from his fascination of mystery and melancholy, mixing masculine shapes with feminine elegance to highlight the female body. “At the beginning when I was younger, I was obsessed by horror movies and mysterious things. It doesn't have to be dark or scary, but perhaps the right word is melancholic with a touch of romance, which is seen in the story of my collections. For me, melancholy has a deep link to romance, and it's beautiful and inspiring but it is also very feminine. It's quite fragile but also sensitive, and that is this kind of woman that inspires me. ” To hold on to his signature style, Halim always chooses 3 or 4 pieces that he really likes from the previous collection, pieces he

Photos by Stephanie Meisl

feels are strong key elements and using them, he develops from their silhouettes so that there is always a link between his past collections and the new ones. Since his debut in 2006, there has been quite a lot of transformation in his design process. “Between my first collection in Singapore and then in Paris, there were a lot of big differences. I think it was the period when I was still trying to find my signature style. Finally from last season, I know what sort of direction and what sort of woman I'd like to design for and the aesthetic that I would like to keep focusing on.“ His experimental style has allowed him to play around with different materials, mixing up furs with leather, silks, lace, and knits. The Raven is predominantly black, with a witchlike quality that echoes Edgar Allen Poe's cryptic world. Looking back towards Indonesia, Halim notes that compared to the past, there are currently more and more good brands coming out of the country. “The only problems are the lack of resources in terms of production and high-end finishings. There are also some designers who are afraid to do what the really want to do. My advice for younger designers would be to focus on what they want and keep going. It's never going to be easy in this industry, but once you are on the right track, just keep exploring and being open to what people have to say. Don't be afraid to try different possibilities to get there.“ He hopes to see more of his creations in stores and on women, and that HARRY HALIM will grow for future seasons to come. harryhalim.com

Designer Harry Halim

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ONE TO WATCH: YOSAFAT DWI KURNIAWAN As for newcomers, keep an eye out for YOSAFAT DWI KURNIAWAN, a young designer from a small town in Central Java. Based in Jakarta, Kurniawan graduated as the best student in his Fashion Design class from Lasalle College in 2009. After working for several brands and designers, he established his own namesake label in 2010. His first ready-to-wear collection was launched at Jakarta Fashion Week in 2011, and he has since steadily grown his presence locally and internationally. When he was younger, his only source of fashion information was in the lifestyle section of the Sunday paper. “I remember that for those few minutes seeing the articles and images, I felt like I had been transported to Paris or LA,” the designer recalls. Fashion then became his means of escape and an eye opener to what lied beyond his backyard. One of his best memories since becoming a designer was when he was featured in the same Sunday paper he used to read as a child. “It came full circle,” says Kurniawan. On how he and his brand have evolved since his debut, he explains, “I was very shy in the beginning, but being able to showcase everything and getting great reviews has really boosted my confidence as a person and as a designer.” On the fashion industry in Indonesia, Kurniawan feels that Indonesia is the fashion capital of Southeast Asia. “More and more international labels have opened stores in Jakarta, not just high street, but also luxury brands. The market is more open to the concept of fashion being a part of the lifestyle and this is a great benefit for the growth of the industry. Indonesian designers are some of the most creative talents in the world. Competition is also fierce with young designers emerging from every corner of the country, making everyone step up their game.” However, some local designers are still new to the concept of how international fashion works. “When exposed to the international market, we find it difficult to adapt. This is where programs like the Indonesia Fashion Forward come in handy for those who are willing to take their labels to the international market.” This past spring, YOSAFAT DWI KURNIAWAN was among the 5 designers involved in the Indonesian Fashion Forward program, which brought them to Paris Fashion Week as a part of the Vendome Luxury showroom. For his second season in Paris, the showroom helped to elevate his status as an international designer from Indonesia to the next level, and gave him the opportunity to meet buyers from all over the world, with the most interest coming from Europe and the United States. “Showcasing in Paris is a whole other level. The talent and level of professionalism is quite different than in Indonesia. I realize now that even though rejection happens, it's very common. You can not cater to every single buyer, and the ones who want to work with you find your designs suitable for their particular market.” Designer Yosafat Dwi Kurniawan

Yosafat Dwi Kurniawan FW14

His FW14 collection, Celestial Clouds was inspired by the weather in Jakarta during the conception stages of the collection. The city saw the most rainfall in history, where the sky remained cloudy and melancholic throughout. The main themes of the collection were paillettes arranged into classic Indonesian batik Mega Mendung (giant cloud) shapes, against a dark color palette. His prints incorporate images of crushed rubies that look like constellations, a reminder to the designer of what was happening above beyond the clouds and rain. His signature style incorporates intricate embellishments and prints that emphasis the cut in his designs. As seasons change, the designer talks about the creative process before each collection, and that the more one does, the more one learns. “Every season I learn something new, be it techniques, ways of thinking, or even something about myself and how I see things. I love going back to the architectural inspirations, and I think there are always elements of it in every collection. But I always take buyers and the press into account when designing a collection, and it's a very important thing to consider.” Kurniawan encourages future Indonesian designers to figure out their target market and make sure that their products are suitable, while also reminding them that there is no point competing with mass retailers. “Remember that you can not satisfy everyone. Never undervalue yourself and do not be afraid to be expensive if you can back it up with quality and craftsmanship.” As for the future, he hopes to have bigger collections, more international stockists, and someday venturing into menswear. “My biggest fear is being in the state where you have no hope, a situation where you just can not do anything anymore. I am terrified of having to give up. I am always excited with new projects. I love those moments when the research develops into concept, and concept into reality. Once I'm done with a collection, I quickly move on to the next one, because the new one is always more exciting than the previous one.” yosafatdwikurniawan.com

painting no.8 Photography Robbert Jacobs Photography Assistant Justine Romuald Styling Simon Gensowski Hairstyling Quentin Guyen Make-up Yvane Rocher Nail Art Zaouia Dorsave Set Assistant Tim Lee Model Xenia @ Elite Paris

Sunglasses by EYEVAN Coat and skirt by CHRISTINE PHUNG Top by VENERA ARAPU Boots by Y-3

Coat by CHLOË Jumpsuit by 1828 BY ZOEPPRITZ Belt by ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER

Coat by 22/4 Top by BARBARA BUI Skirt by ANNE SOFIE MADSEN

Dress by JONATHAN LIANG Necklace by EK THONGPRASERT X NATASHA GOLDENBERG Bracelet by 1-100

Dress and belt by ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER Fur scarf by BARBARA BUI Pants by DICE KAYEK PINK LABEL

Coat by VISIONARY Pullover by BARBARA BUI Skirt by DICE KAYEK Heels by VSP Cuffs by CAMILLE ENRICO

Coat by CORBIER AGOSTINI Pullover, skirt and bag by CHLOÉ Necklace by CAMILLE ENRICO

Jacket by CHRISTINA ECONOMOU Bra by YASMINE ESLAMI Pants by BARBARA BUI Necklace by BERNARD DELETTREZ Cuff by THE MIDDLE

Jacket by CEDRIC CHARLIER Slip dress by ISABEL BENENATO Pants by 22 / 4 Bracelet by 1-100

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backstage at ter et bantine FW14 paris photography by simbarashe cha hairstyling eugene souleiman make-up val garland

f a shion folies Photography Corinne Stoll Styling Tine Kozjak Hairstyling Candice Kanani @ MH Coiffure Make-up Cate P Text by Anna Barr

There is something organically inspiring in an artist mastering and defining a craft to share with the world. Revealing the artists’ journey today epitomizes the multicultural nomad. However diverse the background and miles travelled, many of these artists will find themselves in Paris, the city where craft becomes an art. We were attracted to this bohemian group of performers and friends, crossing métiers and boundaries, each with a different story on the discovery of their talents and ever evolving passions. With acute awareness of their passions, they have evolved and now inspire us to tune in on our own artistic path. Having been welcomed to enter the world of Olga, Jewels, Stephen, Jacobo, and Keita, the common thread in all of them was their curiosity, experience through exploration and finding the beauty in uniqueness. They develop their craft with high respect as living organisms that cannot exist without new ideas, along with the importance of collaboration that also sees the exchange of thought. Keita pointed out that working together gives him inspiration, an attribute that they all brought to the set. On defining what it is to be an artist, Jewels explained, “It is to be able to express myself freely, using my skills, being independent, and always developing and working on new ideas.” Almost as if a traveler driven by curiosity, Jewels has found career highlights in such diverse places as working with such a genius mind as Manfred Mugler, performing for royal families around the world in addition to her theatre work with Rossy de Palma, fashion shows around Europe, and most recently being photographed by Bettina Rheims for her new book out this fall. Jewel’s creative nature has inspired people around the world, starting as a street performer for eight years that taught her a tremendous amount about how to deal with an audience. As their journeys began in such diverse places as Conakry and Madrid, self-reflection set them on the course. Stephen opened up on his own, “As a kid growing up in New York City with albinism my difference from others was brought to my attention over and over again and at the same time accepted as normal in such a place of variety. By seventeen, I started getting serious about painting, sculpture, and playing piano, as well as recording and writing rap music. Modeling kind of fell into my lap and took steam. But like now, back then I followed through on all of it, spreading my expression around, learning, creating, improvising, and honing my different talents and following through.” It is a special moment to capture these artists together and bring in our own element of fashion to the symposium. To witness garments taking new shapes, breathing new life. As our minds mingle in Paris on set, Stephen speaks on the impact that the city has on us every day, unconsciously reminding us of the beauty that is found in this artists crossroads describing it as, “a labyrinth of eye candy for someone like me who appreciates old and detailed ideas of craftsmanship in architecture and design of a metropolis.“

Keita Abdoulaye aka Baboulé Hometown: Gbessia, Republic of Guinea Profession: Contortionist “An artist is someone who speaks from example.” - Keita

Suit by RYNSHU Shirt and shoes by TILLMANN LAUTERBACH

Jewels Good aka The Beautiful Jewels Hometown: Berlin, Germany Profession: Sword swallower, Magician “When I was 13 years old, and realized that I didn’t fit into the environment where I was growing up, I decided to find the rarest profession possible and become the best in the world at whatever I did. Turned out there weren’t any female sword swallowers around… et voilà! Here I am!” - Jewels

Bustier by ZANA BAYNE Skirt by MASHA MA Earring by 1-100 Ring by BLISS LAU

â&#x20AC;&#x153;I discovered and developed my talent on the beach at Conakry.â&#x20AC;? - Keita

Trousers by JUUN J.

Olga Vee Hometown: St. Petersburg, Russia Profession: Aerial Artist, Actor “Creating and performing in Zumanity by Cirque du Soleil is one of my favorite experiences, I fell in love with the show and the people. My latest highlight was when Manfred T. Mugler invited me to join his Mugler Follies show in Paris.” - Olga

Neoprene bra by MASHA MA Dress by TEX SAVERIO Jewelry by BERNARD DELETTREZ

Overcoat by JUUN J.

Stephen Thompson aka Translucent, Lu...Rreals and Albion Hometown: Brooklyn, USA Profession: Musician, Performer, Fashion Model “One highlight was in the mid 2000's when my band, Lu...Rreals and NorthStarNation sold out CBGB's OMFUG on the Bowery in NYC. Another was recording and producing three full length records on my own terms: Lu...Rreals' Track Team in 2007, ALBiON's Stephen Thompson is Albion in 2011, and Resolution's Now to '97 in 2013. Being a part of Mugler Folies this past year has been a big highlight as well.” - Stephen

â&#x20AC;&#x153;I wanted to be a performer as long as I can remember, the first job title on the list was Lion Tamer! I also wanted to be an actress and ballet dancer, but my father insisted that I start with Rhythmic Gymnastics. So I did, learning in parallel to dance and acting, I guess I will take care of lions next.â&#x20AC;? - Olga

Skirt by Y PROJECT Bra model's own

Jacobo Espina Conde Hometown: Madrid, Spain Profession: Dancer, Performer “2200 shows with Cirque du Soleil only warmed me up to crave for more.” - Jacobo

Corset by MR. PEARL Bracelet by 1-100 Trousers by JUUN J. Shoes by MENKES

Hat by LAURENCE BOSSION Corset by MR. PEARL Skirt by IS NOT DEAD

“My journey began in whirling.”

“In Paris, I am a flower in a beautiful garden.”

Jewels wears: Dress by CORRIE NIELSEN Stephen wears: Coat by TILLMANN LAUTERBACH Shirt by SONGZIO

“My immediate plans are to stay in Europe, work on a new record and new act, get married to The Beautiful Jewels, and continue to dominate the World.” - Stephen

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Designer Tillmann Lauterbach

tillmann tomorrow's By Jessica Cooper Photos by Donald Gjoka, taken backstage in Milan

In a 19th century row house next to the Buttes Chaumont gardens in Paris, you will find Tillmann Lauterbach working with a small team of artisans. By teaching himself to sew from a young age, his design approach is refined and historical – everything is handmade. With the fashion industry mass-producing everything with machinery, we seem to have forgotten about the artistry and passion behind clothesmaking, but Tillmann is proving to make waves in the industry and shaping the face of menswear with his one-of-a-kind pieces, garnering him a place as a LVMH 2014 finalist. Tillmann graduated from the ESMOD fashion college in 2003 and only three years later, in 2005 the TILLMANN LAUTERBACH label was born. He has since reigned supreme, presenting collections every season in Paris, Barcelona, Vienna, and most recently Milan. Raised in Ibiza, as a child Tillmann was a free spirit and this sense of liberation is seen in his designs: pieces favour comfort and function gracefully for both work and play. However his pieces are anything but simple – they are rich in volume and texture, echoing Tillmann’s passion for art. TILLMAN LAUTERBACH’S whole work process is a transformative force. His collections are all hand-made pieces making the finished product unpredictable. Behind this artisanal technique and desire for the finest fabrics, the base of his collections is an elegant rawness. With his dark palette and structured, free-flowing silhouettes it’s no wonder he is one of the twelve LVMH finalists because he is redefining menswear to be something to be excited about. We sat

down with the designer to discuss what inspires him and his passion behind the artisanal techniques he adopts. Your designs are very edgy and bold – do you wish to transform the wearer to their alter-ego? Really? I never thought of them that way. I always considered them too tame from afar and only with time, they grow into nice monsters. To answer your question, I think the clothes I design do the opposite; they leave enough room to be filled out by the person wearing them. I like these empty spaces, as they allow very different characters to wear the brand and still be themselves. It is about proposing, not obliging for me, and sharing the fun and love for materials. You say you design for men “who live a modern, fragmented lifestyle.” What do you mean by “fragmented”? Fragmented is what best describes our hybrids in press-friendly words. We work, we eat, we work more, we laugh, we party, we travel, we sleep at home, we sleep in cars, but whatever we do, we do it without a butler and five changes of wardrobe a day, so the wardrobe must function for every occasion, that is what I mean by fragmented. Our lives ARE fragmented, and I think it is for the better. I enjoy the breaking up of codes if it is for function and freedom. What inspires you? Mostly nature in ruins and people, urban nature, textures in time, remnants of older days, and non-places of industrialization. This is what I try to catch and later translate into other mediums like clothes or objects. I work a lot in Asia, two weeks a month and I am very much in sync and in love with their lifestyle. This is the context in which I am seeing myself now; my generation is at a turning point of civilization. A lot of what is present for us in our day-to-day life, is also a lot of what we don’t even see because it is so ordinary; will soon be gone, never to come back. I enjoy archiving these “now” –places or moments that otherwise would be lost. I see poetry in there, in the accidental or common. I am very attracted by its absurdity and purity, and touched by its decay. It puts things and time into a graspable form. In 40 years, our clothes will come out of the printer so we might as well enjoy the ride while it lasts! Throughout your career, has your view on fashion changed at all? Of course! I always absorb and change my interests; otherwise there would be nothing much for me to say! But my aesthetics didn’t change much, neither did my love for quality and simplicity.

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would like to own, and then the journey of adapting it to the season, finding the extra touch in fabric and functionality and twisting it to the point that even by itself it works and speaks to me and my team. Sometimes a fabric can trigger the whole garment, even the whole collection. Sometimes it’s a sound in an empty nightclub. That is the beauty of the job, it’s never the same, it’s always something new. What sort of man wears your collection? Man or woman, someone who’s bored with big brands, someone – how can we call him – in German we have that word "unangepasst" which describes it well, it’s a certain freedom of expression, someone who doesn’t go by the rules but holds a standard in quality and shares a passion for fabrics and cuts. Your patterns and prints are so different and alternating. How do you choose your patterns to keep surprising people? Especially in fashion you need to produce, you need to make these collections you never want to see again. It helps you get better in what you do and especially in knowing what you DON’T want. Your pieces function as work wear to social events – how do you achieve this? I think it’s simplicity and attitude that make the styles easily adaptable. Interesting fabrics, from cotton to the more complex suiting wools, are all of high quality, which you can feel and see by how they fall.

It happens without me trying hard, by pure personal pleasure and interest in new things. Usually I do things I would like to see and wear or that someone close to me should own. What was your background like – were you nurtured in a very artistic childhood? I grew up in Ibiza, and my mother called many artists her friends. It was the most beautiful set up for a child, nature and free-minded people of all ages all the time. My education was dispensed mostly by my dog and by the nature around me. I used to play for hours by myself in the trees. Only later I really understood the luxury of such

You design everything by hand so everything is guaranteed to be one-of-a-kind – do you wish to transform the current view designers often adopt on quantity over quality? No, I don’t wish or want to interfere in how others work. It’s just that I like a certain degree of analog lifestyle in my day. It works for me and I enjoy creating with my hands. I spend half of my days staring at this stupid screen, and I don’t think it’s very healthy. I believe there’s always a different energy if products or designs are made with time and love, and I believe that is taken in consideration by our clients. What’s your philosophy? One grain of realism, two grains of idealism, half a spoon of naivety, two spoons of determination and three spoons of love and let live... freely put after the beautiful quote from Mohammed Ali. You work with a lot of dark colors – why? Because black is beautiful and it eases the eye. My favourite color is a deep ocean blue though, an ultramarine blend. I could live with only clothes in this blue. Unfortunately, my commercial director whom I adore convinced me that not everyone feels the same way, so each season we play with a different color palette. But yeah, darker colors attract me more; maybe the times we’re living in are to blame. Womenswear often overshadows menswear – why do you think that is the case? Because there is more money to be made in womenswear and also pictures of young and skinny girls find a wider audience, I guess. When it comes to quality and design of a collection, I think it’s evenly spread, especially people from the business pay close attention to the menswear designers, as the market is growing and the designs are sometimes more refined and wearable. I just had a conversation with Suzy Menkes in which she mentioned that amongst others, Raf Simons started as a menswear designer; and look what he’s doing now for women. For me it is as spot-on and refined as it gets. Apart from certain techniques, it comes down to the universe you spiral in and your interpretation which makes a good collection. How do you translate your views and inspirations onto your designs? It very much depends on my mood-du-jour, sometimes it’s a trial and error approach, most of the times it’s an idea about a certain piece I

an education, which gave me the freedom to become the person I am right now. Anarchist and designer, “from park bench to Park Hyatt,” as my friend would say. Because you hand-make everything, do you form a sort of relationship or bond with your pieces? Most of all, I love my team and my days spent in the studio. We are a little army of outsiders united by our passion. What we create is an expression of our lifestyle. And of course what leaves our atelier is part of us and family! Do you often find yourself creating a piece halfway and then wanting to totally change it? Not too much compared to other designers I guess, but it happens. I usually take a lot of time to let designs and ideas marinate. I like the rigor in fashion though, it is always a matter of juggling the priority list and making the best with what the situation allows. It is still quite rock’n’roll having a self-financed fashion brand, and I like it.

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Abandoned Beauty Exploring beauty in decay with photographer Jeremy Gibbs By Charin Chong Photos courtesy of Jeremy Gibbs aka RomanyWG

There is something inherently captivating about abandoned ruins; vast, impressive places once filled with life and purpose left now to decay, where the past continues to echo through each wall. So when it came to discovering the work of UK semi-professional photographer Jeremy Gibbs aka RomanyWG, it didn't take long for me to be spellbound. His photographs invite us into these mesmerizing, dilapidated sites to show us the profound beauty tucked away amidst the debris.

'The Underworld' Model Annelieke Rutkowski Location: Abandoned Cooling Tower, Belgium

Specializing in the photography of abandoned locations all around the world, Jeremy Gibbs is one of the most renowned street art and â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Urbexâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; (Urban Exploration) photographers in recent years, having already published 3 collective books on the subject since 2010. His book series, Beauty in Decay I & Beauty in Decay II brought together his own work and that of international Urbex photographers, showcasing spectacular imagery from industrial ruins, remnants of ancient castles, or hauntingly vacant asylums. The best-selling series received wide acclaim, having been featured in the Sunday Times Magazine and is currently in its 4th print edition. His third book, Out of Sight collects stunning photographs of Street Art/Graffiti found in desolate structures all around Europe. RomanyWG started taking photographs in the 1970s, when the Punk scene exploded in London and where his interest in subcultures began. Since those early days, his work has evolved into documenting the Graffiti/Street Art movement, before finding his footing in photographing magnificent ruins. After 3 years of documenting these beautiful, yet empty locations, he decided to take his craft one step further by introducing models into these spaces, bringing a sense of story and a breath of life to each photograph. This new route has allowed him to collaborate with American fashion designer, FAITH MCGARY to feature her stunning gowns which he hopes to be included in his upcoming compilation, Models in Abandonment.

The increase of abandoned sites around the world in this day and age is sadly an indirect repercussion of historical events, economic failures, and rapid industrialization. These hospitals, factories, castles, churches, schools, prisons, and amusement parks among many others could not keep up with the changing times, yet are brought back to life through the increasingly popular urban exploration. The photographer explains, ”I have been photographing abandoned places in and around Europe for the past 5 years, although my first ′ explore′was way back in 1967 when as a curious young boy, I visited the ′ haunted house on the corner.′But now in the 21st Century, it is unbelievable what places you can find. Like the asylums in the UK that have been lying dormant since Margaret Thatcher introduced ′ Care in the Community′in the mid 1980s, where the government decided to treat and care for the physically and mentally disabled in their homes rather than in an institution. These massive institutions were left empty, and slowly nature reclaimed them. In Italy, my location of choice, you can find amazing castles and Villas, some with the complete contents of their past left behind to gather dust.” RomanyWG's books are stocked in the likes of the MoMA in New York, the Tate Gallery in London as well as Waterstones across Europe, and online at the Book Depository. Allow yourself to venture out and be transported to these hidden, abandoned structures that are sure to leave you with a visceral sense of wonder. flickr.com/ romanywg

'The only way is up' Location: Abandoned Château Pont-Remy, France Location: Abandoned Asylum, Italy

Location: Abandoned Winery in Rouen, France

Model Svartálfar Aredhel. Designer FAITH MCGARY Location: Abandoned Château, France.

photography

By Terrible Twins

photography

Narcissism. Mass Media. Selfies. Never-ending repetition of your own image. Constructing Personae. Spiritual growth and transformation, the inner beauty and intelligence is left somewhere behind. Mass media finally made Andy Warhol's renowned phrase, "In the future, everyone will be world-famous for 15 minutes," become closer to reality. Modern day ultra-narcissism.

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crĂŠateurs

// Scandinavian designers in their own designs //

photography by kajsa gullberg

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h en r i k v i b sk o v

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m a r i a sl o t h

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t i ld e b a y k r i s tof f er s en 116

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Hat and jacket by YOJIRO KAKE Necklace and ring (right) by VITTORIO CECCOLI Rings (left) by MOG-ART

neo romance Based on the Virginia Woolf novel “Orlando.” Photography Anna Breda Photography Assistant Miro Ragazzini Styling Özge Efek Styling Assistant Veronica Lingesso Hairstyling & make-up Isabella Sarti Model Karolina R @ 2morrow model Milano Location Convent Garden

Tunic dress and pants by YOJIRO KAKE Leather jacket used as epaulet by AMEN Shoes stylist's own

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Fur cape by AMEN COUTURE Necklace by VITTORIO CECCOLI Undergarment by IKONOSTAS DI DANIELA CORCIO

Headband by ÖZGE EFEK Jewelry by MOG-ART Bra by IKONOSTAS DI DANIELA CORCIO Vintage faux fur jacket

Shirt, leather vest and skirt by EMILIO FAUSTO Jewelry by MOG-ART

fashion

fashion faces Name: Tuck Muntarbhorn Age: Very young! Hometown: Bangkok, Thailand Job: Co-founder of BUSARDI and Editor-in-Chief of STYLEFAN.NET Two full-time jobs equals packed schedules, daily. But love for what I do keeps me going. Fashion Week Highlight: Meeting THAMANYAH'S Ahmed Abdelrahman while dressed in THAMANYAH and Yang Li while dressed in YANG LI. Must Have for Fall 14/15: More THAMANYAH Kandoras and ISSEY MIYAKE PLEATS PLEASE. Favorite Fashion Moment: Presenting BUSARDI FW14 during London Fashion Week and the show turning out exactly how me and my mum wanted. Icon: Ahmed Abdelrahman

Photo by Julien Boudet @ Bleu Mode

Beanie and jacket by RICK OWENS Kandora by THAMANYAH Bag by MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA Shoes by JUSTIN DEAKIN

fashion

local artisans unveiled: a study of sincere craftsmanship Photos by Lisbeth Breland Saalmink By Marlo Saalmink

As the fashion carrousel sways onwards, here in North, it felt soothing to stand still for a moment. Suspended in time and place, an exploration of local craftsmanship and respect for corporate responsibility, was just what the doctor ordered. Not often is one confronted by designers that wish to contribute to the sustainability debate. What constitutes durable design to these visionaries and how do they perceive reflective innovation. We set out to find out by visiting three upcoming designers, propagating exactly these values. A first stop was made at the atelier of THE LAST CONSPIRACY, where Mr. Roald Nore, the brandsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; creative director, but proud shoe-maker first, invited us along into his world. A universe of leathers, goodyear welts, metal shanks, and endless rows of shoe-lasts. Construction takes place with local Portuguese artisans, backed by hundreds of years of shoe-making history. Working closely with Mr. Nore, each shoe is made to order and every scrap of leather is used, thus allocating no room for production waste. Notably, the ASGAARD line, a special capsule collection, named after the Nordic realm of the gods, was an example of this. Each hand-cut slab of reversed culatta horse leather is matched, to create individual pairings, thus creating unique footwear pieces. The connection between Porto and Copenhagen, an unorthodox partnership, here fits seamlessly. Onto our next contender, Mr. MAIKEL TAWADROS, a newer designer on the Danish scene. His work starts from conceptual research, where each collection is organically sculpted alongside the changing seasons. Big on working in an innovative way, Mr. Tawadros, sources his materials locally, with most of the garments hand-sewn in-house. His world is one of opulence, composure, and reflection. As we visited his studio, we

fashion

felt drawn to his knowledge of materials and rather morose color palette. Womenswear, constructed from natural materials; leathers, furs, and silks, all without that overly clichéd Nordic feel, be ready to awaken your inner sculpturist. On a rather dreary Copenhagen spring day, a final stop was made at the pristine studio of Ms. VIBE JOHANSSON, tucked away on an industrial estate. He we found a designer, who creates garments, with a strong love for rigid tailoring and Japanese proportions. Her understated collections often accessorized with exclusive head and wrist pieces, giving life to the crisp and sternly constructed garments. When we visited, Ms. Johansson, was in the process of laying the finishing touches on her new collection. Production is maintained under stringent control, thusly exercising a strong sense of control and responsibility. Ms. Johansson explains us, that her relationship with her clients is pivotal, providing them with honest garments, and clarity in sourcing and fabric research: simple modern transparency. As we rounded up our trip, it felt remarkable how such “smaller”houses can be overlooked at times. Their sincerity and return to the essence of knowledge, craftsmanship, and tailoring traditions, felt admirable and intimate. In many ways, they said in unison, “We care about what we do and would not be here without embracing historic values and norms.” This is exactly the core of corporate responsibility: knowledge and the bravery to do things different, by being idealistically irreverent and at times, perhaps even a little brazen. thelastconspiracy.com / maikeltawadros.com / vibejohansson.com

Designer Maikel Tawadros

Dress by Maikel Tawadros

Necklace by YVES SAINT LAURENT Rings by BIJULES

metamorphosis Photography Quentin Caffier Creative Direction Charin Chong Styling Malvina Vanbever Hairstyling Mayu Morimoto Make-up Yvane Rocher Models Nastya @ Marilyn Agency, Jasmina @ Jana Hernette

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Necklace by A MON SEUL DESIR Dome ring by BERNARD DELETTREZ Kaleidoscope ring by BLISS LAU Bracelet stylist's own

Nail ring by BIJULES

Crown and earring by A MON SEUL DESIR Bronze ring by BERNARD DELETTREZ Nail ring by BIJULES

Necklace by 1-100

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Jil Sander, Milan

Maison Martin Margiela, Paris

fashion week diary: clean chic fw14 milan & paris 140

photography by donald gjoka

Anteprima, Milan

Gareth Pugh, Paris

Chalayan, Paris

Costume National, Milan

Christophe Lemaire, Paris

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hair daze Photography Tomokazu Hamada Styling Atsushi Nagao Hairstyling Eiji Kadota @ SIGNO Make-up Fumihiro Ban @ TRON Model Henrieta @ IM MODEL

Coat by INDIVIDUAL SENTIMENTS

Dress by ATSUSHI NAKASHIMA

Jacket and pants by NUBOAIX

Dress by ATSUSHI NAKASHIMA Mouth accessory by BIJULES

Top and skirt by YASUTOSHI EZUMI Bracelet by BIJULES

travel

europe revisited By Anniina Mäkelä

Mexico meets Scandinavia in Copenhagen

Llama, Copenhagen

Llama, Copenhagen's latest fusion spot, draws on the flavors of the South American continent while it's deeply rooted in the Nordics. The menu features ceviches, anticuchos, Uruguayan-style meats and tacos with Scandinavian ingredients and recipes. The space is decorated with handcrafted Mexican cement tiles, iconic South-American design pieces with the twist of Scandinavian minimalistic flavor. If you are looking for an evening venue, try out their bar with a great selection of South American spirits.

Llama Lille Kongensgade 14 1074 København K llamarestaurant.dk

Bikini, the new Berlin hotspot Hotel 25hours Bikini Berlin sits just in front of Berlin's Zoologischer Garten and it's the city's latest hangout spot in Berlin West. It's also a perfect spot to enjoy a rooftop cocktail. The place is inspired by the "jungle," with lush plants on the ceiling and a greenhouse in the center of the restaurant. The bar and restaurant offer a great view on the Berlin's urban jungle, and you almost forget that you are in the middle of buzzing city. The hotel is a part of a larger Bikini Berlin complex that brings together shopping accommodation and entertainment. It's a concept mall with a compilation of carefully curated and coordinated boutiques, concept and flagship stores, and gastronomic delights.

Monkey Bar at Bikini, Berlin

25hours Hotel Bikini Berlin Budapester Straße 40 10787 Berlin 25hours-hotels.com Bikini Berlin Budapester Straße 38-50 10787 Berlin bikiniberlin.de

Neni Restaurant at Bikini, Berlin

travel

Treasure Trove La Trésorerie offers a great selection of minimalist, sleek furniture, kitchenware, and home furnishings from European labels that emphasize timeless craftsmanship and sustainability. There are lots of wood, linen, enamel, and glass materials, with a stylish selection of household necessities, such as brushes and brooms. Don't miss out the Café Smörgås by chef Svante Forstorp, serving organic Swedish sandwiches and pastries.

La Trésorerie & Café Smörgås 11 rue du Château d’Eau 75010 Paris latresorerie.fr

La Trésorie, Paris

fast food redefined Foderbraettet, Copenhagen

Foderbraettet Opened earlier in 2014, Foderbrættet is a hip newcomer to Copenhagen's restaurant scene, and also a first one in town to mix Champagne with homemade sausages and bread in their menu. If you pop in there on weekend night, there'll be DJs playing electronic beats and a myriad of cocktails to choose from.

Foderbrættet Vesterbrogade 41, 1620 Copenhagen foderbraettetkbh.dk

Kaartin Hodari & Hummeri Fine dining meets hot dogs in this tiny eatery in Southern Helsinki. Their specialty is lobster dog, but their menu boasts different kinds of hot dogs from vegetarian option to classic hot dog. Here you can sip quality wines and Champagne with your snack in a relaxed atmosphere.

Kaartin Hodari & Hummeri Pieni Roobertinkatu 2 00130 Helsinki hodari-hummeri.fi

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my city: tokyo in fall

travel

By Fumiaki Tanaka & Anna Barr

Why go in Fall: Fall is the favourite time of year for many locals as they welcome: koyo and shun-no-aji "changing of the leaves" and the "flavors of the season."

Jicco, The Floating Bar

Tokyo’s changing colors of the leaves in fall are just as iconic as the cherry blossoms in spring. Stunning reds and oranges paint the city from Shinjuku Gyoen Park to the Imperial Palace as Summer fades away. A gourmand city, the fall menu is not to be missed.

Stay at: Park Hyatt Tokyo offers jaw dropping views of the Tokyo skyline, but if you want to save your money for going out and exploring, stay at the boutique hostel, Nui in Kuramae, known as the heart of the creative design and manufacturing area of Tokyo. Located in a refurbished warehouse with big glass windows opening to the bar and lounge on the ground floor, it is the creative people that gravitate towards Nui that make is such a unique stay.

Listen to: Indietronic duo Takako Minekawa and Dustin Wong’s album, Toropical Circle and single “Party on a Floating Cake” with whispering soft vocals and romantic looped guitar layers against an electronic palette. For something more punk, explore the city while listening to 90s infused Cokehead Hipsters and for something completely eclectic, throw in Japanese-Gypsy diaspora sound of The Dolomites.

Shop at: Don’t miss the opportunity to pick up pieces from Japan’s emerging designers and concept stores. Keep your eyes open for up-and-coming designers like Taro Horiuchi, Takeshi Osumi, Mr.gentleman, and pick up a pair of iconic Factory 900 glasses at the quirky Maid Glasses in Akihabara where saleswomen are dressed as maids. While Harajuku and Omotesando have made their mark, Koenji is quickly becoming the destination for avant garde fashion fans.

Robot Restaurant

Eat at: Tokyo has amazing street food and many mom and pop Izakaya’s to explore, but don’t leave the city without the dining experience of the Robot Restaurant in Shinjuku. Robots as tall as three meters walk and dance to the music, mixing dining with a spectacular show that is changed often and features wire action, lasers, and robot battles. Sound familiar? You probably saw it in Muse’s “Panic Station” music video that was shot there.

Drink at: Jicco, The Floating Bar is open year-round with stunning views of the Tokyo harbor and Odaiba. The space-age cruise bar is popular with the jetset and the club-like atmosphere set against the spectacular skyline is worth the experience alone. Did I mention the sophisticated cocktails?

Party at: Helsinki is a rare club that offers a Tokyo loft experience, tucked away from the street level on the sixth floor of the Aires building in Roppongi. International and resident DJs create an intimate party experience from minimal tech to house.

Scai Bathhouse gallery

Hidden Treasure: Scai The Bathhouse, used to be a public bath and now operates as a gallery exhibiting Japanese and international from Kohei Nawa to Anish Kapoor.

Address Book: Feminine meets Boyish Attire, Kitsch and Cute: Gallery Muveil Chateau Toyo, 5-12-24 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku 1 Cult Menswear designer: Christian Dada Flagship Shop, NS-T Building 3-26-2 Jingu-mae, Shibuya-ku Fashion Forward Concept Stores: Wut Berlin 5 Chome,1-15 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku & Kitakore Building 3-4-13 Koenji-kita, Suginami-ku

beauty

ALTERNATIVE BEAUTY By Anniina Mäkelä

Sustainable, green, and ethical consuming have become the cornerstones of modern consumerism. In the beauty industry, this movement has created demand for countless alternative beauty brands. Gone are the days when girls were fooled by the revamped “green” packaging and a couple of natural ingredients at the bottom of the ingredients list. Today's consumer demands all natural products with functional ingredients that are suitable for vegans and vegetarians.

Canadian Handmade

Stylish Meets Conscious

Stark Skincare is a Canadian company that hand-makes and sells truly allnatural, luxury vegan skincare using mostly organic ingredients. Each of the products are multi-functional, unisex and water-free, making them ultra-concentrated and long-lasting. Every ingredient can be traced easily to a plant or mineral. “Instead of concentrating on skin types, we focus on what skin needs in our modern environment,” says founder Jessica Lafleur. “We feel this is a more holistic approach to taking care of the skin. It's not about what's correcting what's ′ wrong′with skin, rather giving it what it needs to thrive in our environment.” starkskincare.com

From their quirky print packaging to solid experience in the hair styling, R+Co brings a dash of glamour to your bathroom cabinet. R+Co offers five shampoos and conditioners for different hair types, and a myriad of styling products with sassy names, like Dallas (thickening spray) and Mannequin (styling paste). All their products are formulated without parabens, sulfates, mineral oil, and petrolatum. They are all vegetarian, cruelty-free, gluten-free, and colorsafe. randco.com

Cannabis + Skincare?

Botanical Bliss

Certified Vegan brand Blissoma uses rather strict ingredient palette in their products, and their whole product range is free of petrochemicals, parabens, synthetic colors and fragrances, and pthalates, neuropeptides, or other artificial “beauty” chemicals. Instead they use active, potent ingredients that are based on nutrients, antioxidants, and advanced phytochemistry with ingredients that are only one step away from the original plant material. blissoma.com Top right: R+Co hair products, Center: Stark Skincare products

Colorado-based Apothecanna is the first skincare company in United States licensed to infuse cannabis flower extracts into their products. Cannabis extract is known to be highly effective in muscle, joint, nerve and skin conditions, and their topical creams and balms are allnatural with other equally acclaimed botanical ingredients. Try out their massage lotion, pain creme, with pain relieving extracts from arnica, juniper, peppermint, and cannabis. No matter what is your opinion on the marijuana debate, don't judge beauty. apothecanna.com

olfactory

lift the lid on invisible clothing with AGONIST

Christine and Niclas Lydeen

By Porschia Thomas

Swedish perfume brand AGONIST was founded by artistic couple, Christine and Niclas Lydeen in 2008, and has since taken over the international market, recently introducing its collection at the 2013 VOGUE tour in Moscow. Producing unisex scents, the brand is inspired by fresh and progressive Scandinavian culture. AGONIST’s objective is to give life to abstract ideas and emotions through the creation of a transcendent experience for their wearers. The collection is composed as a wardrobe, adding another layer of invisible clothing to your everyday interactions. Digging deep into their individual memories and manifesting their childhood through adulthood experiences, our interview was only a small glimpse into the beauty of their collective memory. As a creative team and a couple, love seems to be an ongoing theme in your work. When did you first fall in love with scent? it was probably when we realized that we were able to give life to an abstract idea and emotion through an olfactive experience. It took a long time before we managed to capture a fragrance that expressed what we had in mind. Before, we were just trying to understand a foreign language and now we are speaking it. With Christine’s background in fashion and Niclas as a visual artist, you are both very creative. What role does art play in your work with fragrances? Art plays a large role in our life and in the way we approach things. We are in love with details and seeing the beauty in the world. Artistically, we aim to capture and create experiences, thoughts, and ideas expressed either through visuals, taste, objects, sound, or scent. We believe that the olfactive experience is very powerful, challenging, and free from restrictions. It’s down to the core of the human nature yet very dreamy and abstract. Agonist is recognized for the ancient art of perfume making and applying your artistic vision. When you create a perfume, how does it start? Talk us through the creative process. We always start with an abstract idea of a concept, an emotion, or a theme that we want to give shape to. We gather all our inspiration and ideas in what we call a creative platform. It consists of various things that we feel capture the essence of our concept. Tactile materials, imagery, sketches, fragments of texts, music, etc. We then approach our collaborators and start the quest for the olfactive interpretation. When the intuitive process of the fragrance is done, we enter the glasswork where we artistically translate the fragrance to glass. Each and every sculpture is unique and no one are the same since they are handmade. For us, the individual bottle is connected with each and every persons' individual experience of the fragrance. When the sculptures are ready, we create the sprayline version where each bottle is connected to the sculpture by the colored pecure on the bottom. Texture artist Lucy McRae has proposed and developed the concept of swallowable parfum that synthesizes with the body to create a biologically enhanced scent. Her project creates debate about the body as a platform for technology. With olfactory ancient roots, how do you see it evolving in the future? What new questions and debates can it evoke? In an increasingly digital world with cross-border experiences and artificial connections, we believe that the physical world and its limitations and brutal simplicity will become the last piece of the

puzzle. Virtual reality gadgets like Oculus Rift for example, where you can experience things that fundamentally move your mind and trigger your perception, the challenge to include all senses has just begun. How do we translate and trigger olfactive experiences in a more digital world where the body is not present? The use of scent is very important branding; however the idea of a signature scent is not as common as it used to be. Are individuals loosing the concept of identity associated with smell? On the contrary, we believe that the need for individual and personal signature scents is increasing. The era of selective perfumery has just begun. With AGONIST we aim to reach out to people, because once you try it you will never go back to mass market scents. AGONIST is creating an invisible wardrobe with the collection that people will use at different occasions and moments in life in order to enhance and further express themselves in more sublime way. What role do you think scent plays in our everyday interactions? We believe that scents add a layer and another dimension to everyday interactions. If it is an interesting and well-composed fragrance for example, it creates a silage, an invisible trail left behind the fragrance wearer that seems to create memories, reactions, attractions, and dynamic to the person. Since smell is such a strong sense, it really influences the way we take in the world around us. Agonist specializes in creating unisex fragrances, however modern day feminism and culture is constantly changing our notion of gender. What makes something unisex and something else female or male? For us, gender has always been unimportant when it comes to scents. We believe that scents are free and strike down and speak to anybody no matter the gender. Growing up, what were your favourite perfumes to wear? How did they influence your descent into perfumery? Growing up in Sweden did not really offer many adventures in perfumery since the market has always been very small with no tradition in the field. We discovered scents from other things like how smells were connected to memories, people and travels. I remember my grandfather always smelling of vanilla, which he bought travelling, and the first time vetiver and patchouli drenched my father's beard after travelling in Morocco. The changing of the seasons is also very powerful in Sweden, the smell of the sun drying up the wet, wintery ground and the awakening flowers in the spring, the smell of newly cut grass in the Summer and so on. Do you wear a fragrance everyday? What is your favourite scent to wear from your collection? The AGONIST collection is composed as a wardrobe which we wear and combine like invisible clothing. Different days, occasions, and moods help us choose.

last words

Bleu Blanc Bec by Seba Stolarczyk

Exploration of the Soul By Ophélie Lecorcier Photos by Jade De Brito From his earlier studies at Atelier Chardon Savard to his last project Bleu Blanc Bec, Seba Stolarczyk from HOUSE OF BASE plays with curiosity and shared experiences, corresponding perfectly with his personality. As his soul and his work grew excessively from meeting people, Seba’s exploration of people’s own worlds led him to create collections that are spontaneous, youthful, urban but also full of strong emotions. Following his studies, the young French designer worked with Laurence Charbit, one of the head designers at ISNOTDEAD 0.2, for her fashion show. From his own words, the “beautiful harmony” between them and the general experience there gave him the strength to build his own project: HOUSE OF BASE, an independent label that groups all the artists that work around him in his creative process. They have already rocked the streets of Paris earlier this year, when a “defile sauvage” was organized to present the debut collection, URBAN NATURE.

Bleu Blanc Bec, is the story of a crush, as it reflects love for the 10th district of Paris and particularly the Strasbourg Saint Denis neighbourhood which is well known for being an ethnically rich area in the City of Lights. Seba explains that he observes the people who come and go as daily actors. “Neighbourhood life is very strong here; everybody knows each other and mixes.” The turmoil of this district is always in movement, the people and the atmosphere are sources of inspirations, which according to him is “a different creative process.” Furthering his artistic approach, he

created a short film, an artform that has attracted him for a long time. He admittedly recognizes his fascination with music videos. The goal to build short films around his collections was achieved with Bleu Blanc Bec and was “clearly inspired by the area itself and the daily relation that I have with it.” This short movie, inspired also by the work of Godard is about the daily life of a guy from “Faubourg Saint Denis,” a simple guy that in French we call a blanc bec. He's someone that we cross every day in his routine, and has the viewer questioning “the life of someone we see from afar, who we stand next to without really going into the substance of his thought.” For him, it is a “very personal and implicit way to translate this feeling of curiosity, of intrigue to a person whose life seems very different.” Plunge headlong into the romantic and dreamy world of this young artist, who will immerse you in this Parisian universefilled with anonymity and diversity. You can only be charmed. houseofbase.fr

stockists 1-100

www.one-onehundred.com

JONATHAN LIANG

www.jonathan-liang.com

1828 BY ZOEPPRITZ

www.1828.eu

JULIA BURNESS

www.juliaburnessjewellery.com

22/4

www.224hommesfemmes.com

JULIAN ZIGERLI

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ALBINO

www.maisonalbino.com

JUUN.J

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AND-I

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LAURENCE BOSSION

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ANDREA CREWS

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LEUTTON POSTLE

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ANNE SOFIE MADSEN

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LINNIE MCLARTY

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A.F. VANDEVORST

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MAISON LEJABY

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ALBINO

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MALENE ODDERSHEDE BACH

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ALCOOLIQUE

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MANISH ARORA

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ALESSANDRO MENGOZZI

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MARCO RAMBALDI

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ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER

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MARIA FRANCESCA PEPE

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BARBARA BUI

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MARRYME-JIMMYPAUL

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BEAU HOMME

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MARTIN NIKLAS WIESER

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BERNARD DELETTREZ

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MASHA MA

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BIJULES

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MICHAEL SONTAG

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BJØRG

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MOG-ART

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BLISS LAU

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MYKITA

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CAMILLE ENRICO

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NACO PARIS

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CATHERINE MARCHE

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NA-DI

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CEDRIC CHARLIER

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ODETTE BOMBARDIER

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CHARLIE LE MINDU

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ONLY CHILD

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CHLOÉ

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PEARLY

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CHRISTIAN COWAN SANLUIS

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PELLESSIMO

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CHRISTINA ECONOMOU

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PREEN BY THORNTON BREGAZZI www.preen.eu

CHRISTINE PHUNG

www.christinephung.com

PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND

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CLEMENTS RIBEIRO

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RYNSHU

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CORBIER AGOSTINI

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SANKUANZ

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CORRIE NIELSEN

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SONGZIO

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DAIZY SHELY

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TALBOT RUNHOF

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DICE KAYEK

www.dicekayek.com

TEX SAVERIO

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ETHEL VAUGHN

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TILLMANN LAUTERBACH

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FRED MARZO

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TSOLO MUNKH

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GIANLUCA SOLDI

www.gianlucasoldishoes.com

VETEMENTS

www.vetementswebsite.com

HOUSE OF FLORA

www.houseofflora.net

VITTORIO CECCOLI

www.vittorioceccoli.it

IMOGEN BELFIELD

www.imogenbelfield.com

VLADIMIR KARALEEV

www.vladimirkaraleev.com

IRFE

www.irfe.com

Y-3

www.y-3.com

IS NOT DEAD

ww.isnotdead.fr

Y/PROJECT

www.yproject.fr

ISSEY MIYAKE

www.isseymiyake.com

YASMINE ESLAMI

www.yasmine-eslami.com

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER

www.jeanpaulgaultier.com

YOJIRO KAKE

www.yojirokake.com

JIL SANDER

www.jilsander.com

ZANA BAYNE

www.zanabayne.com

eclectic

ISSUE TWO FW14