COUNTRY CHRONICLES
A POTPOURRI OF COMMUNITIES AND CULTURES Mumbai – a vibrant, progressive and inclusive city
Every city you visit has its own unique story. The fascinating thing about them is how a variety of people, cultures and events influence its evolution. Just as we track the evolution of a species, the evolution of a city can be tracked by digging deep into its past. Understanding the beginning makes you appreciate the city you are residing in or maybe just visiting, much better. I grew up in the city that never sleeps, Mumbai. The bustling city with its many quaint corners and breath-taking views of the sea is what comes to my mind when I visualize the word home. As a child, it was a great experience to grow up surrounded by people from all parts of the country. This meant an exposure to different traditions, cuisines and celebrations. In modern times, Mumbai is a city known for its vibrancy, progressiveness, tolerance and camaraderie. The inclusivity is most visible during the festive season with each festivity having its own special hotspot within the city. With the retreating monsoon, comes the festival of Ganesh Chaturthi where for 10 days the streets of Dadar, Matunga up to Parel and Byculla are choc-a-bloc with people visiting the larger than life idols of the elephant headed God. Around the same time, during Ramazan, Mohammad Ali Road is the place to be post sunset, to feast on mouth-watering iftaar, mostly meat delicacies as well as ghee laden sweets such as Malpua. Later in the year, during the season of Navratri, every open space in the city is utilized for garba events, a folk dance from Gujarat. For nine days straight, people revel by dancing the night away in elaborate traditional wear and finery. Finally come December and Christmas time, the lanes of Bandra are alive with Christmas decorations, carol singers and fairs. These festivals are not limited to the people of a specific faith, on the contrary it is the whole city that takes part in it. Having faced many catastrophic events, there is a spirit of kinship between all its citizens that never fails when called upon. Within this network of people, there are certain communities that have helped immensely in shaping the past and present of the city. Originally seven islands, the Kolis, an aboriginal fishing community played an important part in developing the harbours. They are one of Mumbai’s oldest inhabitants and it is said that the name Mumbai originated from this community, whose local deity is the goddess Mumba.. With the Arabian sea as their foraging ground, every day, close to 2000 boats set out to bring in the day’s catch. A progressive community, the Koli women play as important a role in 8
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bringing home the bread as the men. With an electrifying energy of its own, the docks and early morning fish market are one of Mumbai’s major attractions. With every new fishing season, the Koli folk display their culinary prowess at the Koli festival in Versova, a must visit for all seafood aficionados. Another group of people known for their eccentricity as well as genius are the Parsi community. Undoubtedly their influence on the city cannot be missed from the extravagant Taj Mahal Hotel to the old-world charm of the cotton mills set up in the city. The city of Mumbai has grown due to businesses set up by well known names such as Jamshedji Tata, Cowasajee Nanabhoy Davar and the Jeejeebhoy family. The best place to catch up on stories from the past would be the Parsi cafes scattered across the city. Stepping into these cafes is like going back in time, old Parsi uncles will greet you at the door with wrinkled smiles and if encouraged will tell you tales from their youth. Parsi cafes are a great place to contemplate while trying out iconic items on the menu such as Irani chai, bun maska, Akuri eggs and mawa cakes. While on the topic of cuisine, Britannia & Co is another charming place to visit to try the city’s famous Berry Pulao. Elegant chandeliers, a vintage interior and its legendary owner Mr. Boman Kohinoor exude warmth and affection to all its customers. For 97 years Mr. Kohinoor ran the café with the same gusto and excitement, proudly displaying letters from Queen Elizabeth while engaging his audience in friendly banter. Now run by his son, the Britannia & Co should be on your places to dine at in Mumbai. These are just a few important communities of the city, there are many more one can delve into while reading up the history of the financial capital. Part of what makes Mumbai a great place to be in is the sheer diversity of groups and the communal spirit between them. Due to its extreme pace at first glance it may seem daunting and hostile to a newcomer. With people constantly on the go, it is difficult to keep up but help is always around the corner. What better place than the local trains, a lifeline of the city, to experience this. Just like in life no matter how much you bumble around, there will always be someone to show you the right way out, which is most often a gentle nudge onto the right platform.
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