Dine Magazine Spring 2021 by Edge Magazine

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Elevating the Nebraska dining experience

A LOCAL TAKE ON THE FRIED CHICKEN SANDWICH CRAZE SPRING 2021

EDGE M A G A Z I N E

FEB RUA RY 202 0

OCTOBER 2019

M A G A Z I N E

OMAH A ENTRE 'S SAVVY PRENE UR JAMES MANS KE

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Elevating the Nebraska dining experience VOLUME 2, ISSUE 3 SPRING 2021

PUBLISHER AND OWNER Carole Sprunk (402) 587-2259 // Carole@DineNebraska.com CO-OWNER Michael Meyer (402) 517-0350 // Michael@DineNebraska.com EXECUTIVE EDITOR Kathy Rygg (402) 490-3213 // Kathy@DineNebraska.com

DINE is published quarterly. Content copyright © 2021 DINE Magazine. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, without permission in writing from the publisher, Carole Sprunk. Although care has been taken to ensure the accuracy, completeness and reliability of the information provided, DINE assumes no responsibility therefore. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to DINE Magazine, PO Box 620, Elkhorn, NE 68022

MANAGING EDITOR Gabby Hellbusch (402) 320-7080 // Gabby@DineNebraska.com CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Anna Hartman, Dan Hoppen, Katy Spratte Joyce, Holly McAtee, Michael Meyer, and Vera Lynn Petersen DESIGNERS Quentin Lueninghoener and Ben Vankat, Hanscom Park Studio (402) 517-1228 // Contact@HanscomPark.com PHOTO STAFF Christopher Tierney Photography (402) 350-5699 Tendenza Food Styling & Photography (402) 321-3928 ADVERTISING ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Nicole Buntgen (402) 367-2526 // Nicole@DineNebraska.com ADVISORY BOARD Brian O’Malley, Metropolitan Community College Institute for the Culinary Arts Matthew Brown, Advanced Sommelier, V. Mertz

Table of Contents COOKING CLASSES, AREPAS AND BIRRIA

BLOCK 16, DIRTY BIRDS AND BÄRCHEN

OMAHA RESTAURANT ASSOCIATION

Dear Dine

A fried food phenomenon

Out of the box

KITCHEN COUNCIL

ROTELLA’S

WD CRAVINGS

22 Helping startups “start up”

24 From local bakery Pivoting in to national supplier a pandemic

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Letter from the editor I am honored and humbled to be writing this letter as the new Managing Editor of Dine Magazine! It’s been an exciting journey the past few months, and I’m thrilled that this special issue is now in your hands or on your screen. FIND THE FLATWARE! Hidden in this issue is the image of a fork and spoon. Be the first to snap a photo of the flatware and share on Facebook and/ or Instagram and tag @dinenebraskamagazine. If you are the first one, you will win a $50 gift card to J Coco. One entry per issue, please. Let’s share the love! DINE SUPPLIER in droves. “There’s a tenderness to it that there isn’t in commercial beef,” said Scott Kleeb, Director at Morgan Ranch. “There’s a richness and depth of the beef flavor. If you like beef, this is like beef plus.” Morgan Ranch is now one of the larger purebred Wagyu operations owned by a single family in the world. It has 176 restaurant customers, including more than 100 Michelin-starred restaurants and steakhouses in Singapore, Hong Kong, Japan, Germany, The Netherlands, Austria, and the United States. Morgan Ranch beef can also be found in some of Omaha’s finest restaurants, including V. Mertz, The Boiler Room, and The Grey Plume. Morgan Ranch offers direct to customer sales in the United States, Europe, and Japan as well. Morgan Ranch started long before anyone in the U.S. had heard of Wagyu. The ranch began in 1934 when Ollie and Alex Morgan left the drought-stricken plains of New Mexico and settled their herd of Longhorn cattle in north-central Nebraska. The ranch transferred hands to Ollie’s brother Dan and his wife Doris in 1956, and it’s been a family-owned operation ever since. There are currently four generations of Morgans living and working on the ranch. The ranch shifted to focusing on Hereford cattle, which it still raises. But it’s become most known for taking a chance on Wagyu beef long before it was trendy. The move looks genius now, but it was a major risk at the time. In the early days, most chefs, restaurateurs, and other buyers balked at Wagyu because of the price. Wagyu cattle take longer to reach harvest weight, so they’re a lot more expensive to raise. Kleeb compared Wagyu to making a soup or stew; you can make a good stew in a matter of hours. But the longer you let the flavors develop, the more rich and deep they become, creating a more rewarding and delicious product in the end. “Genetically, the breed is focused toward eating quality, as opposed to the American breeds of cattle, which are focused on a race to the finish line,” Dan Morgan said. “With Wagyu, it takes longer. You harvest them when they’re ready, as opposed to the production after X number of days. It required a philosophical attitude change to begin raising a product based on its eating experience and its quality concerns as compared to only the cost of raising a product.” The general public didn’t know this yet, 28 DINE MAGAZINE

This spring, we feature what has become one of the most talked about food choices: the fried chicken sandwich. While wars rage across the nation with big chain restaurants competing for the title of “best fried chicken sandwich,” we have decided to take a look at local restaurants that are serving up the delicious chicken-meets-bun combo. In this issue, we hear from Dirty Birds, Block 16 and Bärchen Beer Garden about their unique approaches to this fried food phenomenon. Like many businesses this past year, WD Cravings has made changes to survive the COVID-19 pandemic. In our Scene story, chefs/owners Wendy Delgado and Piero Cotrina share how their business concept has become something entirely new — and delightful — to best serve customers during this time. Rotella’s Italian Bakery is a pillar in the Omaha community. Inside the pages of our Supplier section, we’ve brought you a close-up look at the 100-year-old family business that continues to thrive today. In our Expert section, the Kitchen Council shares how it can help local restaurants get started and succeed. Readers also have the chance to learn more about the Nebraska Winery & Grape Growers Association’s Wine Passport program in our Wine section. We also tell all about the offerings at Sideshow Spirits, as well as Upstream Brewing Company in our Beer and Spirits sections. For over a year now, our local food and beverage industry has worked diligently to maneuver through the burden of the pandemic. During this time, Dine has continued to tell the important narratives of the Nebraska dining scene. With the support of our incredible advertising partners and devoted readers, it has always been our goal to make a positive impact and help our local restaurants, especially during this difficult setback. Now and always, we are grateful for your support and our team is excited to continue to bring these unique stories to the forefront. Gabby Hellbusch Managing Editor DI N E NE BRASKA .COM 29

The flatware hid on page 29 in the Supplier section of the winter issue.

4 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

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In an effort to help elevate the Nebraska Dining experience, we answer the questions you’ve always wanted to ask while dining out.

Dear DINE Dear Dine, “Are there any restaurants that are giving cooking lessons?” - Cynthia K. In the current times of the pandemic, several of the typical cooking lesson suggestions, such as Cure Cooking, are on hold. However, there are still many places to check out throughout this next year. Noble Cooking is a new virtual cooking class website created by Chef Clayton Chapman after the closing of The Grey Plume. The Institute for the Culinary Arts at MCC has also moved its continuing education classes to online with the option to purchase your own ingredients or pick-up your ingredients at the school. Other businesses in the community providing learning opportunities include City Sprouts, Crème de la Crème Cooking School, and Fireplace Stone & Patio. Dear Dine, “How are arepas meant to be eaten?” Leslie K. Richard Mendoza, owner of El Arepon Venezuela Food, stated, “You eat them with your hands like a hamburger. They are finger food! I see people eat them with a knife and fork everyday here and it breaks my heart.” Mendoza also explained that arepas can be eaten at any meal of the day because they are so versatile. He said, “They are one of the most healthy breakfasts worldwide!” The most popular arepas Mendoza sells include the Pabellón which is filled with shredded beef, black beans, plantains, fried egg and cheese, and the Reina Pepeada stuffed with shredded chicken mixed in a creamy avocado salad. Traditional arepas are made with 100% corn flour which is gluten free.

Birria originated in the westcoast Mexican state of Jalisco.

Dear Dine, “What are Birria tacos?” - Michael S. Birria tacos are the hottest taco trend right now and hopefully become a menu staple everywhere, as they are absolute savory heaven for anyone who loves to dunk their food. Rory Fulcher, marketing manager and business partner at Javi’s Tacos, shared, “It starts with two corn tortillas that are dipped into consommé and warmed up on the flat grill, then we add our fine quality Oaxaca cheese (or Chihuahua cheese) and melt it on the tortillas. We add our delicious shredded beef, which is a slow cook secret from Javi’s mother. Lastly, we top it off with a blend of cilantro and onions. The Birria Tacos also come with a bowl of consommé, which is a broth that the Birria Tacos are dipped into while eating.”

HAVE A RESTAURANTRELATED QUESTION? Email Dine Magazine and we’ll answer in an upcoming issue!

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DINE DISCOVER

A FRIED FOOD

PHENOMENON

Local restaurants put own twist on the classic fried chicken sandwich

STORY BY DAN HOPPEN PHOTOS BY CHRISTOPHER TIERNEY PHOTOGRAPHY 8 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

he fried chicken sandwich is far from a new concept. The combination of bun and fried poultry has been enjoyed for decades, but never did America embrace it as fervently as when Popeyes released its version in 2019. The sandwich, which consisted simply of a fried chicken breast, pickles, and mayo on a Brioche bun, quickly went viral on social media, and soon hungry patrons were waiting multiple hours in the drive-thru to get their hands on the phenomenon. Several locations were

unable to keep up with the insatiable demand and, astonishingly, ran out of chicken. But diners weren’t the only ones caught up in the nationwide craze. Chefs at all levels saw Popeyes’ success and began dreaming of new possibilities. “Popeyes is to blame for it, and everyone hopped on that train and tried to take it in different directions and make it their own,” Adolfo Gutierrez, a line cook at Block 16, said. “There were always chicken sandwiches, but now most restaurants, especially fast food or quick turn-and-burn restaurants, have a chicken sandwich. It’s because of Popeyes.” As the popularity of fried chicken

Bärchen Beer Garden DINENE BRASK A .COM 9

DINE DISCOVER

sandwiches exploded, restaurants across America introduced refined versions on their menus. Omaha was no exception, and the city now boasts several standout fried chicken sandwiches that outshine their original inspiration. That includes Dirty Birds, a restaurant in The Switch Beer & Food Hall that was opened on January 2, 2020 by former Kitchen Table cooks Dan Whalen and Moses Moseley. After testing their fried chicken concept twice at Dandelion Pop-Up events, the pair took the leap and introduced their pickle-fried chicken and sandwiches to Omaha — hopeful, but unsure the concept would stick. “When we first opened (the restaurant), we were wondering how we were going to pay rent this month,” Moseley said. “We were taking a big step, going out and quitting our jobs. We brought a friend up from Kansas City (to work) and we were like, ‘Um, we might not be able to pay you…’” Those concerns evaporated as soon as diners sunk their teeth into the crunchy exterior of the chicken and discovered the juicy, tender meat inside. Dirty Birds quickly became a social media darling and sold out of poultry several times in its opening weeks of operation. The secret to Dirty Birds’ success is a two-day pickle brine, which cures the meat and helps it cook quicker. The brine injects the entire piece of chicken with flavor, so much so that the Dirty Birds’ cooks break 10 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

Bärchen Beer Garden

Bärchen Beer Garden General Manager Ashley Spessard

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DINE DISCOVER

Block 16 line cook Brooke Nicole Williams

Block 16 owners Jessica and Paul Urban

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Block 16

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DINE DISCOVER

Dirty Birds owners Dan Whalen and Moses Moseley, and chef Mike West

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Dirty Birds

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DINE DISCOVER

“YOU ’ R E A LWAYS TAUGH T, ‘ OH , T H IS CAME OU T OF T H E FRYE R . SALT, RIGH T AWAY. BU T OU R CHIC KEN IS SE ASON ED TH E WHOLE WAY TH ROUGH . T H E BRINE JUST MA K E S IT A W E LL-SE ASON ED PI EC E OF M EAT. IT’ S V E RY CONSISTE NT.” one of the cardinal rules of deep frying — they don’t add any salt when the chicken exits the fryer. “You’re always taught, ‘Oh, this came out of the fryer. Salt, right away,’” Whalen said. “But our chicken is seasoned the whole way through. The brine just makes it a well-seasoned piece of meat. It’s very consistent.” Dirty Birds’ now-beloved recipe wasn’t developed overnight, however. Finding the right ratio of flours and spices took “forever” according to Moseley, who said he’d call OSHA (Occupational Safety and Health Administration) on himself for oppressive working hours if he could. He and Whalen credit their partners at Kitchen Table for helping them develop and perfect the recipe that now has Omahans flocking to the Blackstone District. The flavor and moistness of that chicken inspired Brooke Nicole Williams, a rising Block 16 line cook that tasted Whalen and Moseley’s chicken at Dandelion Pop-Up in September 2019, to create her own version of the fried chicken sandwich. She experimented and added personal touches like honey-lime mayo and dill slaw before presenting it to Block 16 co-owner Paul Urban as an idea for one of the restaurant’s daily specials. Featured on November 3, 2020, the sandwich was a hit, and Urban loved it so much that he called Williams a month later and suggested the item be added to Block 16’s permanent menu. After a few tweaks, including adding an 16 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

Dirty Birds

in-house tajin seasoning and housemade pickles, Brooke’s Chickenwich was born. “I was not expecting that at all. It’s such an honor for me,” Williams said. “Chicken is delicious. If you can have a really crispy, delicious chicken sandwich that is just remarkable… I mean, you’ve had a McChicken from McDonald’s. It’s just whatever. But if you have something that stays crispy and adds extra flavor, that’s like, ‘I’ve been craving that. That’s what I want.’ That’s all it is. It’s just chicken, but you make it better.” Such was Ryan Miller’s thinking as he constructed the menu at Bärchen Beer Garden. The owner didn’t originally intend to sell more than German pretzels and sausages, but decided to expand the menu in 2019. As the Popeyes craze consumed the nation, Miller and his team wanted to offer something similar… only with the option to add some heat. While you can order a traditional fried chicken sandwich at Bärchen, the menu also includes two versions of Nashville Hot Chicken sandwiches (with varying spice levels), which are dunked in pepperinfused oil after frying to add some serious kick. After testing 15-20 iterations of the

oil, Bärchen’s team settled on one that included brown sugar and dark brown sugar that would awaken the taste buds without engulfing them in flames. “We wanted to make it noticeably hot, but with sweetness, and the garlic aioli and thick pickles balance out some of the heat,” Miller said. “So you get the heat, then the sweetness comes in, then there’s the coolness of the mayo and the pickles to help you recover. “People have asked us to deliver it to West Virginia and Florida. They’re obviously joking, but we’ve gotten a great reception.” The popularity of fried chicken sandwiches has exploded in recent years, and it’s not hard to see why the public adores the item so much. Fried chicken has long been a staple of American dining, and it presents a clean slate that talented chefs delight in experimenting on. “It’s classic and it’s an open canvas,” Gutierrez said. “You can do so much with it, and it’s really hard not to like fried chicken.” “We wish everyone had their own fried chicken sandwich,” Moseley added. “Because we want to try them all, too.”

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out DINE COMMUNITY

Omaha Restaurant Association thinks

box O F

T H E

for Awards Ceremony

STORY BY KATY SPRATTE JOYCE PHOTOS BY TENDENZA FOOD STYLING & PHOTOGRAPHY

he Omaha Restaurant Association (ORA) was established in 1944 as a nonprofit organization to promote the highest standard of quality in the Omaha hospitality industry through leadership, scholarship, philanthropy and advocacy. Jennie Warren, Executive Director of the ORA, summed the purpose up succinctly, sharing that the “ORA exists for hospitality, scholarship and feeding the hungry.” Year 77 for the ORA saw unprecedented challenges as the COVID-19 pandemic overtook nearly every aspect of American life. Restaurants and the hospitality industry were one of the hardest hit, but that doesn’t mean there weren’t reasons to commemorate the 2020 season. In an effort to stay safe, the annual ORA awards banquet was held virtually on January 31, 2021. Fittingly, this year’s theme was “Out of the Box,” a nod to both the creative pivots members have embraced in the past 12 months, as well 18 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

as the five course meal served out of a box. This year, over a hundred attendees were invited to pick up said meal from Stokes West an hour before the ceremony, then tune in to the zoom event while they dug in to the multi-course and multi-source feast. Chefs from around the area collaborated to create an interactive experience for guests. The appetizer came from Jimmy Masters with Best Bison who made Bison Meatballs and Crostini. Spencer’s Glenn Wheeler provided the salad course, his expert take on mid-win-

Omaha Restaurant Association awards banquet

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DINE COMMUNITY

ter greens. V. Mertz’s Jake Newton crafted Vietnamese Pho soup, while the Short Ribs entrée came from Victor Cabriales at Stokes. The dessert was the cherry on top of a delicious meal: opera cakes from Paul Kulik of Le Bouillon. ORA Board President and General Manager of V. Mertz, Matt Brown, emceed the awards ceremony, which also inducted the new Board of Directors for the organization. About the evening, Warren said, “It’s way more fun to celebrate in person and be around our peers, but we are grateful for any reason to celebrate our industry leaders who thought out of the box and went the extra mile to come out on top.” Numerous awards were bestowed as part of the festivities, like Restaurateur of the Year, Purveyor of the Year, and the Harold Norman Excellence Award. Mitch Tempus from Fernando’s, who has owned the business since 2017, was celebrated as Restaurateur of the Year. “Mitch is a great supporter of the ORA and he is memorable for his chips and dips, which can be enjoyed at the restaurant or found at area Hy-Vees,” Warren said. Purveyor of the Year was TriMark Hockenbergs, operated by the Schrack family and team. In his introduction, Brown said, “For over 100 years, they have served as a trusted partner for successful foodservice operations - procuring product, installing equipment, designing kitchen spaces and supporting efforts in efficiency, sustainability and waste reduction.” The newest award of the bunch is the Harold Norman Excellence Award, which Warren shared is “for the unsung hero” and is less than a decade old. Zac Triemert from Brickway Brewery & Distillery was honored for his community first approach to producing gallons upon gallons of hand sanitizer when everywhere was experiencing a shortage of this safety item; notably, Triemert didn’t charge for the sanitizer. Summing up the event, Warren added, “We look forward to a prosperous year and getting together in person at next year’s awards.” 20 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

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Kitchen Council managing director Holly Benson Muller

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DINE EXPERT

KITCHEN COUNCIL gives food industry a hand

Helping startups “start up” Opening a restaurant can feel nearly impossible to someone who has never handled licensing or regulations in the food industry while also having limited resources for kitchen space. Fortunately, the Council Bluffs and Omaha area has developed a solution for food startups and entrepreneurs.

STORY BY VERA LYNN PETERSEN PORTRAIT BY TENDENZA FOOD STYLING & PHOTOGRAPHY

Kitchen Council was a concept started in 2016 that officially launched in February 2018 as a joint effort by the Greater Omaha Chamber and community partners Iowa West Foundation, Council Bluffs Chamber, Conagra Brands and the Iowa Economic Development Authority. Their mission was to create a food startup incubator that helped lower the barriers to market entry for food entrepreneurs including caterers, bakers, aspiring restaurateurs, food truck operators and those creating packaged products. Learning to work across state lines was important in order to serve clients in both states with their own unique requirements. The starter home of Kitchen Council was in a previous restaurant space in Council Bluffs. Holly Benson Muller, Managing Director of Kitchen Council, was part of the planning and opening of Kitchen Council after she moved to Omaha and fell in love with its food scene. “I did not see myself living in Nebraska, but when I landed here I was inspired by the food landscape of amazing farmers markets and interesting, innovative restaurants that represented international cuisines. There were food businesses and producers growing right in our backyard!” said Benson Muller. In January 2020, Kitchen Council moved into its permanent home at the Hoff Family Arts and Culture Center. The new 3,000 square foot facility includes commercial grade equipment, as well

support, but also give a realistic idea of all the layers involved, not to overwhelm, but to be realistic. Food is exciting, whether you make it or eat it. It is something we all can relate with and it is at the center of our communities and dinner tables as something we all bond over. Someone might feel passion in the kitchen to make grandma’s recipe, but they might not think about what all that can entail with 13-hour days in a kitchen. You have to be scrappy,” explained Benson Muller. “Kitchen Council can help save time, money and potential heartache if people jump in before they are ready.” As seen throughout the community, the burden of Covid-19 hit the food landscape heavily. “There have been many food businesses negatively impacted by the pandemic and they are trying to navi-gate how to get through this thing alive at the end. I am so proud of the Kitchen Council members for pivoting and restructuring their business models to bring in income to live off of. The pandemic also gave opportunity for food entrepreneurs to be creative and presented a new opportunity to think broader than before, while some have had to pause and close their doors,” said Benson Muller. “I think it has created interesting opportunities for folks that were not thinking about a food business, and now they have felt inspiration to try something they can do and be good at. We need to lift up small businesses and support how we can.”

as production and storage spaces. The program offers their members guidance on how to start a business, assistance in navigating health department regulations, a shared commercial workspace, a community of food entrepreneurs for networking and event opportunities, as well as educational resources. Monthly membership options include a “Full Time” membership for $450 a month with 24-hour everyday access to the facility or a “Nights & Weekends” membership for $350 a month, which allows facility access from 6 p.m. to 6 a.m. during weekdays while still granting 24-hour access on weekends. Kitchen Council currently has 10 resident members that share the space and could comfortably take in another 10 members. The number of residents has fluctuated over time as businesses open and close. “We exist so people can test the waters and see if a business will evolve as people want or take a step back to find what the next move is if not,” said Benson Muller. “It is not only a stepping stone to the bigger steps, but we also exist to do research and development. If a business is going to fail, they can then fail fast and not lose so much.” For people looking to become members or food entrepreneurs in general, Kitchen Council offers a quarterly two-hour Food Startup 101 class. “We give a bird’s eye view for what one should think about with starting a food business. We want to

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DINE SUPPLIER

Louis Rotella Sr. holding bread in the early 1960's at the 24th Street Bakery location, a pivotal point when plastic bread sacks started to be used to keep the bread fresher and have longer shelf life 24 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

From local bakery to national supplier The 100-year rise of Rotella’s Italian Bakery STORY BY DAN McCANN PHOTOS COURTESY ROTELLA’S ITALIAN BAKERY

ouis Rotella Jr. had a bold vision for his family’s Omaha-based bakery – the one his immigrant grandparents founded a century ago and his father guided for three decades. Louis Jr. was going to take it national. “My father (Louis Jr.) is always striving to become better, to become more efficient, to grow the business. One of the things I learned from him is to never be stagnant,” said Louis Rotella III, Louis Jr.’s son and Rotella’s Chief Operating Officer. In 1978, two years into helming day-to-day operations, Louis Jr. made his first move, expanding Rotella’s Italian Bakery into the Lincoln market. Des Moines, IA, was next. Now, more than 40 years after first stretching its reach, Rotella’s is one of the nation’s premier high-speed, wholesale bakeries with distribution across the country – all of that growth driven by Rotella’s third generation president and CEO.

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DINE SUPPLIER

“We got along so well, me and my dad. Whatever was best for the bakery, that’s what we would do.” Louis Rotella Jr.

“My father has always been focused on making his father (Louis Sr.) proud; proud that he raised a hard-working son capable of achieving big dreams,” said Louis III. The Rotella’s story is rooted in family – generation after generation. Italian immigrants Alessandro and Maria Rotella opened the original Rotella Bakery in 1921. They baked bread in a wood-fired oven and delivered it to local restaurants and grocery stores in a horse-drawn wagon. In 1947, son and World War II veteran Louis Sr. began running the bakery for his aging father. Automation became a priority. “My father (Louis Jr.) really learned about automation from his father (Louis Sr.). Automation was key to growing our business,” Louis III said. Louis Jr. described his late father as a “really good teacher,” honest with an incredible work ethic. “We got along so well, me and my dad,” Louis Jr. said. “Whatever was best for the bakery, that’s what we would do.” Louis Jr. started riding on his father’s bakery delivery truck at the age of three. By eighth grade, he had learned all aspects of running production. When father and son became partners in the mid-70s, the bakery’s reach was limited to Omaha area grocery stores and restaurants. Louis Jr., intent on growing Rotella’s into a national supplier, learned 26 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

Partners Lou Sr. and Lou Jr. in 1975, outside second bakery location at 24th & Poppleton

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Lou Jr. working in roll production, 1971

Rotella Cooling Spirals

Alessandro and Maria Rotella in first bakery location at 21st & Pierce, 1932

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Lou Jr. in dad’s delivery truck, 1952

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Modern automation, new south plant addition

from sales brokers how to sell bread to distributors and voluminous national accounts, including national and regional restaurant chains. “We operate differently because we are family-owned. We still think we’re a small business. To the outside world, we’re not a small business. We’re one of the largest specialty bakeries in America,” said Rocky Rotella, Director of National Sales. Rotella’s marked the early 1980s with several advances, including the launch of a national campaign to sell fresh, frozen bread and the development of a first-ofits-kind product catalogue. “Louis Jr. had this idea that he wanted a catalogue – a piece he could use to support his plans for national distribution. This was unheard of in the baking 30 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

industry at that time. Nobody was doing a catalogue. Nobody,” said Omaha illustrator and designer Mark Chickinelli, a longtime Rotella’s collaborator. In a nod to national demand, Rotella’s state-of-the-art, high-speed production lines run almost non-stop these days, churning out seven main product lines: • Bread loaves • Dinner and banquet rolls • Hoagies • Buns • Specialty breads, including flat breads and baguettes • Ciabatta • Gluten-free The bakery’s march into the gluten-free era came in 2012, spearheaded by Louis III and his brother John. (Rotella’s 40-acre

campus in La Vista, NE, includes 15,000 sq. ft. of production space dedicated to gluten-free products.) Rotella’s now supplies certified gluten-free bread to a number of large chain accounts. The bakery’s R&D team is continually evolving its formulas and techniques, leading to new product introductions and efficiencies. “A lot of our regional and national chain accounts want us to help create a menu as opposed to just marrying their thoughts with a particular product. Because that’s become so profound, we created a test kitchen and hired an executive chef, a corporate chef and a scientist,” said Louis III. “It’s the perfect set-up for collaboration and innovation.” Old world skill and expertise coupled

with modern technology – that’s how they do it at Rotella’s. As the bakery marks its centennial anniversary, fourth and fifth generations are now involved in running and growing the business; a special source of pride for the 71-year-old president and CEO. “From the time I was a kid to what the bakery is today, you sit back and you think, ‘This is unbelievable,’” Louis Jr. said. The bakery started humbly at 21st & Pierce St. with less than a dozen employees. Now, 100 years later, the Rotella’s Bakery “family” – a team of more than 400 employees – is helping to feed a nation. “It’s ‘we’ at Rotella’s. It’s ‘our’ bakery. We try to make everyone who works here feel like part of the family,” Louis Jr. said. “Having so many great and loyal workers throughout our history has made us a top-notch bakery. … I’m proud of all our employees...the whole Rotella team, both past and present. Their hard work and dedication to strive for high quality products and extraordinary service has been a coveted secret since 1921.”

Louis IV and Louis III with gluten free bread

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Soaring Wings Vineyard

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DINE WINE

Nebraska Winery & Grape Growers Association’s WINE PASSPORT encourages locals and tourists to sip local

Exploring Nebraska’s wines Nebraska might not be the first location that springs to mind for excellent wine, but do not sleep on your home state, oenophiles. Per Kathi Schildt, Executive Director of the Nebraska Winery & Grape Growers Association, local vintners have been in pursuit of enological success for over 25 years. The unique terroir in the Midwest is well suited to myriad fruit crops, but Edelweiss, a grape varietal created by Elmer Swenson in Minnesota in the late 1970s, is the most common grown in Nebraska. Depending on the winemaker, resultant flavors range from tart to sweet, exceedingly bright and refreshing in sweltering summer months. Wine connoisseurs who lament the fact that Nebraska has no decent reds might want to give them another sip. The French hybrid De Chaunac lends itself to full-bodied, well-balanced wines, but can be a bit fussy in frigid weather, so vintage matters. St. Croix is another Swenson hybrid bred for the Midwest; wines made from this grape benefit from a bit of oak-barrel aging, making them even more palatable for red wine afficionados. To encourage exploration of local wines, the association prints a Wine Passport each year, making it available for free at nearly 30 participating wineries (most of which craft wines containing a minimum of 60% Nebraska-grown products) and tasting rooms throughout the state.

STORY BY ANNA HARTMAN

The 2021 version features a red cover, and it’s perfectly pocket-sized for tucking into your purse or car cubby on your quest for culinary adventure. Many establishments offer flights or tastings, and most have lovely spaces full of personality in which you can relax and enjoy a glass or bottle with a friend. At year’s end, mail in the stamp page for prizes and swag including t-shirts, wine tumblers, wine bucks and more (but keep the book as reference for future forays). In 2021, the association plans to host two festival events, as well as one or two in conjunction with the Nebraska Game and Parks 100-year anniversary. The first, Toast Nebraska, is scheduled for early summer, and a second Holiday festival for later in the year. Schildt encourages locals and tourists to experience and celebrate all the state has to offer, using the passport as a guide, “You will be pleasantly surprised by our award-winning wines, beautiful venues, and educational, fun events.” Visit www.nebraskawines.com for more information.

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Sideshow Spirits

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DINE SPIRITS

Step right up and enjoy unique in-house distillates from SIDESHOW SPIRITS

Enchanting spirits In the heart of the Lincoln Haymarket, is the state capital’s only distillery: Sideshow Spirits. Sideshow Spirits has a whimsical, magical feel that will transport you to another time. The Sideshow name also has a double meaning because owners Cody Schmick, Barry Fox, Nate Bill and Dan Hodges also own Kinkaider Brewing Company in Broken Bow, Nebraska. When Schmick heard about the Green Flash Brewhouse and Taproom closing, they bought the equipment from the previous owner and got into the space December 26, 2019. The Sideshow Spirit cocktail bar opened in May 2020. Schmick said they based their atmosphere on traveling shows in the dust bowl era. “Welcome to the show” is the overall feel of the spot and the brand. Sideshow is an imaginary rendition of what they wanted bars to look like 100 years ago. James Reece, the Head Distiller, is an avid home brewer whose passion for the fermentation process has been carried down in his family through the generations. His grandfather is an immigrant from South Korea who ferments food and drinks as part of his everyday life.

James studied environmental science at University of Nebraska Lincoln and his passion for chemistry and biology help in the formulation of the Sideshow Spirits. Sideshow produces high quality spirits out of Nebraska ingredients. They use 100% Nebraska corn vodka and distill it using just the heart and not heads and tails. Their methods are more expensive because there is more waste, but the result is a higher quality spirit. The signature cocktails are full-bodied and unique. The Step Right Up is made with Jalapeno Vodka. It features sweetness from the corn and spice at the end. You experience the sweet on the front of your tongue and then heat at the back of your throat. The NY Sour is whiskey, homemade sour mix, with red wine on top. The Roscofarian is a mix of rum, chocolate, flaming cinnamon, and pineapple. Stop in for the experience. Get a flight of bourbon. Or order a cocktail with “smoke and magic!”

Sideshow Spirits vodka

STORY BY HOLLY McATEE PHOTOS BY NATE VARGAS

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Upstream Brewing Company

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DINE BEER

UPSTREAM BREWING COMPANY keeps cask ale style around

Firkin good beer Cask ale has been considered for centuries to be draught craft beer in its finest form. The history of cask ale seems to have faded a bit in the late 20th century. Luckily for groups like CAMRA (Campaign for Real Ale) in England and breweries like Upstream Brewing Company in Omaha, this naturally soft and exquisite ale lives on! The most common delivery form of beer has been in a wooden barrel (cask) until the 1950s. The tradition of cask ale, also referred to as real ale, is common in England. Today, visitors to London might think it is warm, flat, beer but this is simply not the case. Consumers gravitate to what they know as craft beer, which tends to be chilled and bubblier with the addition of carbon dioxide (CO2). To appreciate cask ales, you need to understand what goes into them. Dallas Archer, head brewer at Upstream Brewing, has kept the tradition of creating cask ales for over ten years. Archer explained that these ales go through a process called cask conditioning. In this process, the beer goes through a secondary fermentation where yeast is still active in the cask. Small amounts of a sugar solution are added allowing the yeast to feed, thus producing CO2 naturally for softer carbonation. Archer went on to say that the modern casks are no longer wooden and are now metal. Two of the most common sizes are Pin – 5.4 gallons and Firkin – 10.8 gallons. In these vessels, the beer conditions

anywhere from 10 to 20 days before it is ready. The cask is tapped with a mallet and poured either from a gravity pour tap or a hand pump beer engine. The beer is served at cellar temperature, which is around 55 degrees. Some favorite cask styles over the years at Upstream Brewing have been stouts, scotch ales, IPAs, and many others. Archer recalls a version of the scotch ale that had sriracha toasted pecans that was incredibly unique. One of the most recent ones was a Milkshake Hopfenweizen. There is beautiful hop aroma in this golden-orange beer. A nice creamy head on this ale with tropical fruit notes in an exceptional soft body. The pandemic has caused the cancelation of events at this time. When things return to normal, Upstream Brewing plans on continuing to host a special cask ale charity fundraiser — one of the most special craft beer events in the Midwest. Take the opportunity to enjoy what cask ales are all about at Upstream Brewing in Omaha’s Old Market. Cheers!

STORY & PHOTOS BY MICHAEL MEYER

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DINE SCENE

PIVOTING IN A PANDEMIC Newly established Omaha patisserie, WD CRAVINGS, expands menu to cater to patrons STORY BY DAN HOPPEN PHOTOS BY CHRISTOPHER TIERNEY PHOTOGRAPHY

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The current iteration of WD Cravings is not what owners Wendy Delgado and Piero Cotrina had in mind when they first opened the doors on March 8. On that day, with a full dining room and a line spilling out the door, the couple’s vision for their patisserie was in full focus: a casual hangout with coffee, flaky pastries, and desserts, reminiscent of the bakeries in Italy and France. This was what Delgado dreamed of as she sold out of her desserts nearly every Sunday for two years at the Baxter Arena Omaha Farmers Market.

WD Cravings chef/owners Piero Cotrina and Wendy Delgado

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DINE SCENE Then COVID-19 hit. With the pandemic came city-mandated restrictions on restaurants’ capacity and group gatherings — crippling factors that endangered even Omaha’s most established restaurants, much less one that had been open one week. “How many times do you think of a pandemic?” Cotrina said. “You might think about an asteroid or animals escaping from the zoo before you would ever think about a pandemic making you close your dining room, especially when you spend 10-15 years in the kitchen and you’re always used to seeing (diners). You’re like, ‘I’ve got this because I know this game. I’ve played this game.’ “But guess what? Now you have to play soccer and score without a ball.” And yet, despite all the challenges and unforeseen hurdles, WD Cravings has made its mark as one of Omaha’s best new restaurants. Diners are drawn in by the creative breakfast sandwiches (which can include meatballs or short ribs), Instagram-worthy desserts, and a Chicken Parmigiana large enough to eclipse most patrons’ faces. That success is largely due to Cotrina and Delgado’s humility. Breakfast burritos, pasta dishes, and chicken wings weren’t supposed to be on the menu next to Delgado’s desserts. But the pandemic has forced restaurants to adapt and cater to the diner, and few listened to the customer more than WD Cravings. “You’re cooking for people,” Cotrina said. “When you have your idea for your own restaurant, you want to cook what you want, you know? There’s a time and a place for that, but I think it’s important for everybody to listen to the people that are actually eating.” It all started with muffins, something Delgado had no intentions of baking originally. But after three customers requested muffins one day, they were on the menu the following morning. Same with donut holes, which Delgado crafts with a lighter, more airy zeppole recipe. Then, the couple drove by McDonald’s on the way to the restaurant one morning and Cotrina was struck with the idea: why not serve breakfast sandwiches? But instead of using a biscuit, which flakes and crumbles, how about a hearty English muffin? And with strips of fried chicken or unctuous short rib? From there, WD’s menu continued to 40 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

Tiramisu

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DINE SCENE

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grow and evolve. Cotrina, who previously worked in renowned pasta restaurants like Au Courant, Avoli Osteria, and Via Farina, added handmade pasta dishes. Breakfast burritos hit the menu, and WD Cravings began serving meals out of its drive-thru window, something it originally only intended to do with coffee and

desserts. “I had to stop thinking about what they’re going to say or what your chefs are going to think about you serving burritos or chicken tenders,” Cotrina said. “I have nothing to prove. If I don’t make this restaurant come to life, I can’t prove to myself or my wife that I can support her.

“What weighs the most? Whoever listens to their heart is going to find the right answer. That might sound cheesy, but you have a lot in your head. We’ve worked with some great chefs. We wonder what they’re going to say if we put certain things on the menu. But at the same time, let’s make a greasy burrito, but the best DINENE BRASK A .COM 43

DINE SCENE

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Savory Beef Bolognese

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DINE SCENE

Truffle Turnip Ravioli

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greasy burrito. Let’s make a breakfast sandwich, but the best breakfast sandwich.” While WD Cravings still features Delgado’s decadent desserts, including Tres Leches, Chocolate Envinado, and Tiramisu cakes, it’s not exactly what she intended. But any punches that fact dealt to her ego were softened by one memorable interaction. A woman came through and purchased an order of donut holes, something Delgado never intended to offer pre-pandemic. The patron called back later and told Delgado that the pastries were for her daughter, who’d had a rough week and was feeling very down. But as soon as she tasted the donut holes, her face erupted into a smile. For Delgado, whose career was forged working in the lower levels of New York restaurants as a pastry chef, that validation was perspective-altering. “Your human side is like, ‘No, I don’t want to do that,’” Delgado said of making donut holes. “But that day broke my ego. That feeling is like, ‘I’m going to do this because you’re going to love it.’ I feel grateful because that was the thing I didn’t get to see in New York. I was in the basement all day. I didn’t see the people’s reaction. Now I have people come over and say, ‘This is so fantastic!’ That peels back your ego.” The same goes for the Chicken Parmigiana, which has quickly become WD Cravings’ most popular item. The first day it was offered, Cotrina told an employee he’d be surprised if they had 25 orders total. At one point, there were 19 orders of Chicken Parmigiana fired at once. It’s been a best seller ever since. WD Cravings is no longer by definition a patisserie. Rather, it’s evolved into a dessert shop/breakfast sandwich destination/ pasta haven driven by a passionate couple willing to do anything to make it work, even amidst unforeseeable circumstances. “It’s been a blessing because it uncovers the potential that you didn’t know you had,” Cotrina said. “The potential that was inside of an eggshell. The pandemic came and cracked that, but opened something else. You saw your true potential because you can’t roll and die. You have to do something. You just have to keep fighting. It’s made us aware of the potential we have as cooks and as human beings.” DINENE BRASK A .COM 47

Safely Gather f o r Yo u r N e x t C e l e b r at i o n at Mahogany Prime Steakhouse Let us provide an unforgettable evening, our dedicated private dining coordinator is available to assist in creating a handcrafted experience.

13665 California St., Omaha, NE 68154 | (402) 445-4380 mahoganyprimesteakhouse.com 48 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

HIGH EFFICIENCY EQUIPMENT FOODSERVICE SUPPLIES RESTAURANT INTERIORS SPECIALIZED KITCHEN SOLUTIONS

TRIMARK IS THERE EVERY STEP OF THE WAY TriMark Hockenbergs 14063 Cornhusker Rd. Omaha, NE 68138 402.339.8900

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M A G A Z I N E PO Box 620 Elkhorn, NE 68022

LOCALLY GROWN Carla Gornall

Small Market Farming Certificate, 2020

Procurement coordinator No More Empty Pots

Degree and certificate programs in horticulture, land systems and management prepare students for a variety of careers that strengthen our community.

To learn more, visit mccneb.edu/horticulture.

Metropolitan Community College

HORTICULTURE, LAND SYSTEMS AND MANAGEMENT Metropolitan Community College affirms a policy of equal education, employment opportunities and nondiscrimination in providing services to the public.To read our full policy statement, visit mccneb.edu/nondiscrimination.