Dine Magazine Summer 2021 by Edge Magazine

HEIRLOOM FINE FOODS • KITCHEN TABLE DUNDEE HARD ICE CREAM • SCRATCHTOWN S L AT T E RY V I N TAG E E STAT E S C O R K S C R E W • SA K U R A WAGY U FA R M S

Elevating the Nebraska dining experience

UNCOVERING TRADITIONAL CHINESE CUISINE IN THE METRO

SUMMER 2021

EDGE M A G A Z I N E

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M A G A Z I N E

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Elevating the Nebraska dining experience VOLUME 2, ISSUE 4 SUMMER 2021

PUBLISHER AND OWNER Carole Sprunk (402) 587-2259 // Carole@DineNebraska.com CO-OWNER Michael Meyer (402) 517-0350 // Michael@DineNebraska.com EXECUTIVE EDITOR Kathy Rygg (402) 490-3213 // Kathy@DineNebraska.com

DINE is published quarterly. Content copyright © 2021 DINE Magazine. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, without permission in writing from the publisher, Carole Sprunk. Although care has been taken to ensure the accuracy, completeness and reliability of the information provided, DINE assumes no responsibility therefore. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to DINE Magazine, PO Box 620, Elkhorn, NE 68022

MANAGING EDITOR Gabby Hellbusch (402) 320-7080 // Gabby@DineNebraska.com CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Mark Gudgel, Anna Hartman, Katy Spratte Joyce, Holly McAtee, Michael Meyer, and Vera Lynn Petersen DESIGNERS Quentin Lueninghoener and Ben Vankat, Hanscom Park Studio (402) 517-1228 // Contact@HanscomPark.com PHOTO STAFF Christopher Tierney Photography (402) 350-5699 Tendenza Food Styling & Photography (402) 321-3928 ADVERTISING ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Nicole Buntgen (402) 367-2526 // Nicole@DineNebraska.com ADVISORY BOARD Brian O’Malley, Metropolitan Community College Institute for the Culinary Arts Matthew Brown, Advanced Sommelier, V. Mertz

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Table of Contents ETIQUETTE, OYSTERS AND FRITES

BLUE & FLY, GOLD MOUNTAIN AND WAVE BISTRO

KITCHEN TABLE

Dear Dine

Finding community History, tradition at the Table and flavor

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Letter from the editor Officially in full swing, the summer season brings many joys: warmer weather and longer days, exciting activities and events to attend, tasty treats and drinks to indulge in — and, of course, a new edition of Dine Magazine! FIND THE FLATWARE! Hidden in this issue is the image of a fork and spoon. Be the first to snap a photo of the flatware and share on Facebook and/ or Instagram and tag @dinenebraskamagazine. If you are the first one, you will win a $50 gift card to J. Coco. One entry per issue, please. Let’s share the love! DINE DISCOVER

A FRIED FOOD

PHENOMENON

Local restaurants put own twist on the classic fried chicken sandwich

STORY BY DAN HOPPEN PHOTOS BY CHRISTOPHER TIERNEY PHOTOGRAPHY

he fried chicken sandwich is far from a new concept. The combination of bun and fried poultry has been enjoyed for decades, but never did America embrace it as fervently as when Popeyes released its version in 2019. The sandwich, which consisted simply of a fried chicken breast, pickles, and mayo on a Brioche bun, quickly went viral on social media, and soon hungry patrons were waiting multiple hours in the drive-thru to get their hands on the phenomenon. Several locations were

unable to keep up with the insatiable demand and, astonishingly, ran out of chicken. But diners weren’t the only ones caught up in the nationwide craze. Chefs at all levels saw Popeyes’ success and began dreaming of new possibilities. “Popeyes is to blame for it, and everyone hopped on that train and tried to take it in different directions and make it their own,” Adolfo Gutierrez, a line cook at Block 16, said. “There were always chicken sandwiches, but now most restaurants, especially fast food or quick turn-and-burn restaurants, have a chicken sandwich. It’s because of Popeyes.” As the popularity of fried chicken

8 DINE MAGAZINE

We’ve got a great line up of stories in this issue, including a timely piece on traditional Chinese cuisine in Omaha, featuring local favorites Wave Bistro, Blue & Fly Asian Kitchen and Gold Mountain Restaurant. Enjoy an enlightening and historical look at one of the first cultural foods to enter the metro area. While some may be unfamiliar with the term “glamping,” they will be fully acquainted after finishing our Scene story on Slattery Vintage Estates, as owners Barb and Mike Slattery take readers on an exciting trip to find out all that the local vineyard has to offer this summer. Without a doubt, the pandemic has altered the way many restaurants serve the community, and Kitchen Table is no exception. In our Community section, we share how the business has transitioned through the pandemic to not just be a restaurant, but also a “General Store” that raises money and meals for the community. From family farm to family table, Sakura Wagyu Farms is committed to delivering delicious tasting beef to local communities and markets. Flip to our Supplier section to learn more about the business’ holistic approach to beef production. Warning: your mouth may start to water. In our Expert portfolio, Heirloom Fine Foods shares more about its special technique for local sourcing. Speaking of local foods and goods, read on to learn more about all that the Village Pointe Farmers Market has in store for this season. Readers can also slip — or should we say “sip” — into our Wine section to hear from Corkscrew Wine & Cheese and find out the latest on the local rosè market. ’Tis the season for icy cold treats, which is why we also showcase Dundee Hard Ice Cream and Scratchtown Brewing Company in our Beer and Spirits sections. After diving into these refreshing stories, you’ll be itching to run out the door to try these businesses for yourself. As always, we could not share these special stories without the support of our readers and advertisers. Please continue to eat local and support small businesses this season and beyond. Wishing you a fun-filled summer featuring all of your favorite tastes and experiences! Gabby Hellbusch Managing Editor Bärchen Beer Garden

DI N E NE BRASKA .COM 9

The flatware hid on page 9 in the Discover section of the spring issue.

6 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

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The etiquette of stacking dishes, and eating oysters and frites.

Dear DINE Dear Dine, “Should a diner stack plates when they are done eating? What is good table etiquette for the end of a meal? I have been told it might be a younger generation thing where Millennials stack plates, but Boomers do not. Is it helpful to stack, or am I rushing the wait staff?” - Shannon N. In having experienced a wide variety of restaurant settings, Nick Bartholomew, owner of Over Easy and Dandelion PopUp, shared his observations. He said, “I believe the generation gap answers the stacking plates etiquette question. For Boomers, they saw it as a treat or an occasion to go out to eat. They treated an evening out almost like a vacation where they were taking the night off. Millennials, from one time in their life or another, have held a restaurant job so we saw it as a helpful thing to a server or busser so they didn’t have to make extra trips. Millennials stack based on empathy, and Boomers don’t because they want the full experience of being waited on.” He further explained, “Helpfulness is when the waiter asks ‘Is everyone finished?’ and begins to clear the table. Helping stack at this point is ideal. Stacking prior to wait staff ’s presence is saying something completely different.” Dear Dine, “Are you supposed to turn your disposed shell upside-down on a half shell platter?” - Darla T. There are several ways to handle this situation depending on how the restaurant serves the platter. Some restaurants may supply a separate share plate for discarded shells, while others expect the shells to be placed back on the ice or platter in which they were served. In reaching out to Plank Seafood Provisions, Chris Akers, a Corporate Chef

Flip your shells as you finish them.

at Flagship Restaurant Group, agreed to the flipping method in stating, “It is the polite thing to do, but not always necessary. Most people do flip the shell after eating!”

HAVE A RESTAURANTRELATED QUESTION? Email Dine Magazine and we’ll answer in an upcoming issue!

Dear Dine, “I always feel silly eating frites at a fancy restaurant. What is the proper way to eat frites?” - Justine P. A familiar dish that highlights fries as “frites” would be the menu item Steak and Frites. With the elegance of the steak and often a fancy steak knife, it can be confusing how the dish should be eaten. Erin Leick, Front of House Manager at Dario’s Brasserie said, “At Dario’s, we take frites as seriously as any of our entrees. The long cut means they stand up nicely to a dipping sauce—we like ketchup and herbed mayo, but you can do any sauce. The key is to make sure your sauces aren’t too cold so they nicely coat the frites. We also love to serve them on the side of a protein with a Belgian beer-based gravy. Lately, we’ve done lamb meatballs and rabbit, and the frites are perfect with the rich sauce. Serving them on the side instead of poutine-style makes sure they stay crisp to the very end!” As far as the question of using fingers or a fork, Leick confirmed, “Definitely your fingers! You can use a fork to get the last few small ones properly sauced and avoid dirty fingers, though.” DINENE BRASK A .COM 9

DINE COMMUNITY

Jessica and Colin Duggan, owners of Kitchen Table 10 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

Finding community at the Table STORY BY VERA LYNN PETERSEN PHOTO COURTESY OF KITCHEN TABLE

It is easily noticed that in this last year during the pandemic it was harder than normal to find community. One downtown restaurant in particular worked hard to continue feeding their regulars, along with giving extra to those in need. Colin and Jessica Duggan opened Kitchen Table in June 2013 with the intention of their restaurant feeling like the community found around the kitchen table. While Colin focused on making his own bread and creating complex sandwich recipes, Jessica identified the importance for the restaurant to be inclusive to all types of eaters, whether meat or vegetarian, furthering the concept of needs found around a kitchen table. After years of working in a corporate kitchen, as well as a union, Colin wanted to create a kitchen environment where any of their workers could step in to a task and not feel stuck to one role. With most of their ingredients being made in-house, this provided many learning DINENE BRASK A .COM 11

DINE COMMUNITY opportunities for their staff. Outside of their own house-made ingredients, Kitchen Table focused on finding and supporting local farmers and producers. The Duggans had previously lived in San Francisco and realized the importance of the midwestern growing seasons, as well as the freshness of a Nebraskan tomato. Their menu often revolves around these seasonal items, and people will have difficulty finding a better BLT. The restaurant became successful with pasta nights and a growing list of regular customers. One idea the Duggans had contemplated was creating a convenience store for their customers. “The local convenience store has traditionally not been the high end place to shop, but local food has become this exclusive property of the fine dining world,” Colin explained. “The big concept of our goal was to find what is valuable to use and make it accessible to everyone. Here, everyone is welcome, and we refuse to cut corners to provide the same product to everyone, whether it is a donated meal to someone in need or

a quick lunch for someone who doesn’t worry about money.” In response to the pandemic, the Duggans found their convenience store concept necessary and created their own version of a general store where customers could buy loaves of bread, biscuits, sauces, spice mixes, and family meal kits such as large trays of lasagna to-go. “It was an extension of our pasta on Fridays,” said Jessica. “We could still do what we did before, but safely and in a different way to still see people, but not have them sitting in the restaurant.” Ordering with the General Store became routine for many of Kitchen Table’s regulars. “Holidays have been big! People become engrained into their routine, picking up their English muffins,” shared Jessica. The Duggans were able to name many of their weekly customers and what orders they expect to fill throughout the week. Colin added, “We have gotten to where we expect to see certain people Friday nights and look forward to connecting with our customers. We want people to feel like they are sitting down

at home, comfortable and relaxed, and not have to worry about anything. Family meals have been that for us.” The Duggans plan on continuing the operation of the General Store even after the pandemic, as it has still shown success through customers coming in for their lunch order and grabbing a loaf of bread to take home. One other way Kitchen Table worked to give to the community during the pandemic was in raising money to provide meals to people facing food security issues, including the homeless downtown, as well as community outreach programs such as Yellow Door, Omaha Home for Boys, and Youth Emergency Services. A $7.00 donation provided two meals for those in need. “We always want to do the right thing. If people donated here, we were spending it in the local economy to put back into our local farmers and networks that we buy from. It’s good to keep that momentum going,” Jessica said. “We get help covering food and folks get the food, it’s a positive circle.”

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DINE DISCOVER

HISTORY, TRADITION AND

F LAVOR

Vietnamese spring rolls at Gold Mountain

The story of classic Chinese cuisine in Omaha

STORY BY ANNA HARTMAN PHOTOS BY CHRISTOPHER TIERNEY PHOTOGRAPHY 14 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

Scalion pancakes at Blue & Fly

ncompassing eight culinary traditions, many of which are represented right here in Nebraska, Chinese cuisine carries a rich and varied history. For many immigrants, though, it means flavors of home. As Mason Zheng from New Gold Mountain shared, “It’s home cooking…everyday flavors…salty fish, black bean sauce… what my parents cook.” Omaha has a long history of excellent Chinese restaurants, dating back to the early 1900s when Gin Chin

Cashew crusted salmon at Wave Bistro opened the Mandarin Café at 1409 Douglas after attending the 1896 TransMississippi Exposition here in Omaha. The most famous of the early Chinese establishments, King Fong Cafe, served southern Chinese and old-school Chinese American dishes in an exquisite space formerly occupied by Café Beautiful. Early to midcentury restaurants included the King Yuen Café on North 24th Street and the Kuo’s Great Wall at 72nd and Farnam. As the century wore on, more recent waves of Chinese immigrants to Omaha brought more authentic and varied Chinese cuisine, from the Shandong specialties served at Yue Cong’s Blue & Fly Asian Kitchen to the traditional

Deep fried crab cakes at Gold Mountain DINENE BRASK A .COM 15

DINE DISCOVER

Wave Bistro dim sum offerings at the Zheng’s New Gold Mountain. Early Chinese cooks quickly realized their hometown dishes were unappealing to staid early American palates, so they got creative, inventing Chop Suey, Chow Mein, and Egg Foo Young to better sate their customers. Many of these dishes became staples at Chinese restaurants throughout the country, but most have been supplanted by modern Chinese American dishes such as Peanut Butter 16 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

Chicken, Kung Pao Beef, and Crab Rangoon. What makes a dish traditional vs. Americanized? Cong explained, “Lower spice levels, familiar proteins and cooking methods.” To slowly guide his diners toward traditional dishes, he replaces one ingredient at a time until they enjoy and appreciate it as much as he does. A common characteristic of any immigrant is work ethic, and those who came here and opened restaurants

are no exception. George Liao of Wave Bistro immigrated from Taiwan, an island off the east coast of China, in the late 1980s, initially working in Lincoln Chinese eateries and eventually earning an Associates degree in Restaurant Management from the local community college. Later, he attained a Masters degree in Hotel, Food, and Beverage Management from the University of Nevada Las Vegas, married, and started a family. Desiring to raise their kids in the

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DINE DISCOVER

Bulgogi at Blue & Fly

Fish in chile oil from Blue & Fly 18 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

Trio Chocolate Mousse Torte at Wave Bistro

Steamed shrimp and pork dumplings at Gold Mountain

Crab cakes at Wave Bistro

Steamed BBQ pork buns at Gold Mountain DINENE BRASK A .COM 19

DINE DISCOVER

George Liao, owner of Wave Bistro Midwest, Liao and his wife Connie returned to Nebraska and started Tokyo Kitchen, all while dreaming of opening an upscale Asian Cuisine eatery. That dream became a reality in 2007 when the couple opened Wave Bistro — they haven’t had time to look back since. Cong moved to Omaha in 2007 at age 21, first working with his father at Hunan Garden before joining the National Guard as a mechanic. This decision enabled him to travel and taste different foods around 20 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

the United States, and he found himself lamenting the fact that Omaha diners had limited access to the wide variety of dishes from his homeland he readily found in bigger cities. After returning to China and learning from a master chef, he and his wife Yi returned to Omaha to open Blue & Fly Asian Kitchen in September of 2015. Blue & Fly is a labor of love for the Cong family, bringing their precious history and love of Chinese cuisine to Omaha diners. The food served is

primarily from the Shandong province, with Szechuan influences and a variety of fusion dishes. Zheng’s parents, who own the New Gold Mountain restaurant in Aksarben, came to the United States in the 1980s, moving to Omaha toward the end of the century. Zheng describes the dishes as “authentic Hong Kong style Cantonese as normal everyday Chinese food, but not as spicy as Szechuan or Hunan.” The specialty at New Gold Mountain

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DINE DISCOVER

Steamed shrimp dumplings at Gold Mountain 22 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

Crispy lamb and vegetable dish at Blue & Fly

Peanut butter chicken at Blue & Fly

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DINE DISCOVER

Steamed egg custard buns at Gold Mountain

Wave Bistro dining

Crispy lamb and vegetable dish from Blue & Fly

Scalion pancakes at Blue & Fly 24 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

Jane Zheng, owner, and Mason Zheng, general manager of Gold Mountain

Yi and Yue Cong, owners of Blue & Fly Asian Kitchen

is Dim Sum, a style of dining in China typically consumed midday. The smaller bites and dishes allow diners to explore different flavors and textures. Vietnamese Spring Rolls, Steamed Buns, and Dumplings are all excellent options when ordering from the Dim Sum menu. Dumpling doughs vary according to what’s inside, using different flour types to achieve the desired thickness. Wave Bistro’s Liao prefers to fuse traditional Asian dishes with European techniques and flavors. A lifelong learner, Liao owns 500 cookbooks, is a trained pastry chef, and has completed the Certified Executive Chef level in the American Culinary Federation. The menu at Wave includes a spectacular Japanesestyle souffle cheesecake, and occasionally Liao finds time to cook traditional Chinese pastries. Liao develops all recipes in-house, coming in on his day off to test and practice, constantly striving to learn more and hone his cooking skills. Hailing from Taiwan, Liao is wellversed in preparing seafood, but it can be challenging to get very fresh fish in the landlocked Omaha. He finds the flavor profiles of ginger, basil, star anise, and Szechuan peppercorn marry beautifully with both seafood and meat. Broadening palates is on the mind of all chefs, and many Chinese cooks do feature “introductory” dishes on their menus. However, once they earn a diner’s trust, they feel comfortable presenting traditional dishes close to their own hearts. When cooking, Cong tries to recreate traditional recipes as best he can; if they are unable to source the proper ingredients or seasonings, they adapt and often create something totally original. Some of Cong’s favorite ingredients are cumin, present in Blue & Fly’s unctuous, crispy lamb and vegetable dish, spicy mala sauce (a unique combination of tingly and spicy), and Szechuan peppercorn. This ingredient shines in the popular Fish in Chile Oil, which arrives at the table bubbling and aromatic, large enough to share and teeming with pleasantly zingy Szechuan peppercorns and perfectly tender fish. The best feeling a chef has is when diners love their food. When asked what he’s most proud of, Cong mused, “The customer’s response. Nothing is better than customers giving me a thumbs up. That’s the best reward I’m going to have here.” DINENE BRASK A .COM 25

Corkscrew Wine & Cheese

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DINE WINE

CORKSCREW WINE & CHEESE delivers unique, fine wine selection

Season of Rosé is underway According to the Wine and Spirit Education Trust, the color of rosé wine is best described as being either pink, salmon, or orange. Corey Keith, who founded Corkscrew Wine & Cheese in Rockbrook fifteen years ago, wears a polo shirt salmon in color, and a long table of more than twenty rosé wines behind him signals that perhaps such wine is not limited to just three hues. Five years ago, Corey and his sister, Jessica, opened a second store in Omaha’s budding Blackstone District. Besides the surname of their owners, something the two shops have in common is an immense selection of fine wine, which can be consumed on premises or taken to go, and this time of year the focus is largely on rosé. “We try to create a selection that we like and that our customers will like,” Corey said. Provence may be the region best known for their rosé, but Corkscrew’s incredible selection can take wine drinkers on a world tour. Here are eight that stand out. AGERRE GETARIAKO TXAKOLINA 2020 From the Basque region of Spain, this rosé is a playful easy-sipper. BELLULA 2020 A classically-styled take on rosé, this patio pounder checks all of the boxes.

BARNARD GRIFFIN 2020 Rob Griffin is a pioneer of wine in Washington, and his rosé consistently has one of the best quality-price ratios on the market. CALAFIA “THE PRINCESS” 2019 From the private label of Randle Johnson, who made the Hess Collection wines for decades, this is a dark ruby-hued Napa Valley take on rosé. DON RODOLFO BRUT 2020 Sourced from Argentina, this refreshing sparkler is a solid value. LONG MEADOW RANCH 2018 From Sonoma, this wine is light pink, delicate, and smacks of rose petals and seaspray. CHAVIGNOLET SANCERRE 2020 Sancerre is known for Sauvignon Blanc,

STORY BY MARK GUDGEL PHOTO COURTESY OF CORKSCREW WINE & CHEESE

but if more people find out about the rose-colored nectar in this bottle that could change. VEUVE CLICQUOT NV The Widow Clicquot’s legacy extends into the realm of rosé in the form of this gorgeous Champagne. “What I like best about rosé,” Jessica Keith said, “…it has a wide variation in style and [is] pretty universal for pairing with food. Headed to a barbecue to relax on a patio, rosé is my choice.” This summer, whether it’s on the patio or at one of the vast outdoor spaces at either Corkscrew location, a bottle of pink, salmon, or even orange colored wine is sure to hit the spot. The Keiths and their staff are more than pleased to help select the right bottle for customers from their global selection of rosé wines. Salud! Santé! Cheers!

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DINE SPIRITS

DUNDEE HARD ICE CREAM scoops up sweet summer spirits

Sweet spirits Collin Werner was working his way up through the ranks of the Omaha culinary scene when he heard local entrepreneur Nick Bartholomew ask if he knew anyone who could execute a hard ice cream concept – Bartholomew noted a gap and Werner knew just the cook to fill it: himself. This is not the soft serve drizzled with Crème de Menthe of the past – think quality hand-crafted ice cream with perfectly balanced classic cocktail flavors, perfect any time of year. Working out of the kitchen at The Switch, a unique concept that enables entrepreneurial chefs to try ideas through short-term leases, Werner tinkered with his ice cream base recipe until he dialed in the proper ratios that would retain the creamy mouthfeel of perfect ice cream, but allow spirit flavors to shine through. Primarily a savory chef, Werner’s favorite flavor profile is the classic lemon + garlic + thyme, but when developing flavors for Dundee Hard Ice Cream, he trusted his own palate, “I created balanced flavors that sounded good to me, like salted caramel.” Classic cocktail combinations such as Tequila Lime, Bourbon Caramel, and Vodka Cranberry are popular flavors. Seasonal offerings have proven successful, including a holiday offering based on sugar

STORY BY ANNA HARTMAN PHOTO COURTESY OF DUNDEE HARD ICE CREAM

cookies (for adults who are kids at heart), and a classic chocolate strawberry delight for Valentine’s Day. The Switch venue comes with builtin sustainability, partnering with local compost company Hillside Solutions, so it’s effortless for the team to stay green, and given the quality of distilleries in Nebraska, collaborations can’t be far behind. Summer flavor development is well underway, but to find out what’s available, stop in to The Switch for a summertime treat, or pick up a pint to take home and enjoy on a sultry summer evening on the patio. Werner, also on staff at V. Mertz, beamed with pride when discussing his stint with Dundee Hard Ice cream, but has since moved on to other challenges. His are big shoes to fill, but undoubtedly another up and coming cook will arrive on the scene excited to expand their horizons and continue developing delicious hard ice cream offerings.

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DINE BEER

SCRATCHTOWN BREWING COMPANY becomes social spot for locals and tourists

A true destination brewery In the small town of Ord, Nebraska, visitors will find the bluest sky, extremely flavorful beer, and some of the nicest people. It is no coincidence that all of this can also be found at the town’s local brewery, Scratchtown Brewing Company. Back in 2013, the founding couples of Mike and Julie Klimek, Caleb and Christina Pollard, Jade and Michelle Stunkel, and Shay and Emily Reilly had a vision for the community they loved. The goal was to make a positive transformation through fermentation. Since 2013, Caleb Pollard said the brewery goals have not wavered even during the pandemic. “Staying true to yourself is the only way to run your business,” Pollard said. Standing strong with their community during the pandemic has been especially important for the owners of Scratchtown. “Being able to help others in our hometown during these trying times has been so fulfilling,” Mike Klimek said. Scratchtown has become the social center of Ord. During the pandemic, when people were not able to get together, they rallied behind their brewery. Someone started a GoFundMe page as an anonymous ‘beer-it-forward’ fund. A blessing for the brewery was to deliver upwards of 500 crowlers (32 oz cans) of beer to homes in the community, which was just for one week. Caleb Pollard said it was a great way to be social without being together. The past year has been very trying.

Mike Klimek described how hard it was to see good people, such as the folks at Loup Valley Hops, end their business. “It was more important than ever for us as owners in this business to make some key decisions,” Caleb Pollard said. Those decisions would include making the taproom a more significant priority over distributing beer. Scratchtown covers the spectrum of traditionally handcrafted beers. In the summertime, patrons will find refreshing lighter ales and lagers. In the winter, it is all about the stouts and porters. Scratchtown holds one of the best Oktoberfest events in all of Nebraska called Scratchtoberfest. From the patio at Scratchtown, there is a lot to take in. Across from the brewery is the Valley County courthouse — a beautiful building with incredible grounds. The people of Ord welcome travelers to conversations, community breakfasts, and even kickball games at the park. What many are finding out is Scratchtown is genuinely a destination brewery. Visitors are traveling from across the United States and enjoying the incredible experience that can only be found in Nebraska at Sandhill’s finest brewery. Cheers!

STORY & PHOTOS BY MICHAEL MEYER

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DINE SCENE

A weekend getaway at SLATTERY VINTAGE ESTATES

GLAMPING, WINE and MORE STORY BY HOLLY MCATEE PHOTOS COURTESY OF SLATTERY VINTAGE ESTATES

lattery Vintage Estates (SVE) is tucked between Lincoln and Omaha in Rural Cass County. It offers a great place for guests to escape for the evening or overnight. The Slattery family has worked hard to create this unique place that is truly a labor of love.

In the late 1990s, Barb and Mike Slattery were looking for a place to get away from the city and wanted a place for Mike to bow hunt. Mike loved the turkey and deer that roamed the property. At the time, Mike was an attorney and public defender for Cass County and Barb was a grant writer for Creighton University. They lived in Plattsmouth and would commute. Barb and Mike had always enjoyed wine and heard that people were growing grapes in Nebraska, so they went to the Nebraska Winery and Grape Growers Association meeting. In 2000, they planted their own vineyard and added the house in 2006. They currently have three acres in their vineyard, and their granddaughter Ellie also helps them with the grapes. Winemaker Phil Simpson of Silver Hills Winery in Tekamah makes the grapes into wine and sells it back to them. Because

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Slattery Vintage Estates is a vineyard, they can sell all kinds of alcohol, so they have many different choices at their Tasting Room. Their vineyard’s wine is St Brigid Blend. The Slatterys grow Norton grapes, which are unusual to the area because they are a Missouri grape, but because SVE is far enough south the grapes can still grow on their land. Norton grapes are sometimes called the “Cabernet of the Ozarks.” Originally, they thought about making a bed and breakfast on the land, but things changed, and they eventually decided against it after some obstacles. The Tasting Room was plan B, but it worked out for the best. A few years later they added “glamping” and now guests stay in the bungalows on the estate. Barb said, “This wasn’t our dream. But, it has evolved into more and more. We take a lot of pride in what we do here.”

Vineyard view

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DINE SCENE Glamping season at SVE runs from May through October. They have five bungalows equipped with antique beds, nightstands, rugs, lamps, and a coffee pot. There is also a shared outdoor shower and toilet. There isn’t air conditioning, but there are fans, and in the cooler months, they offer electric blankets on the bed. The bungalows are raised and have screens to keep bugs out, but they also don’t have many mosquitos on the property because of the swallows and fish in the pond. Upon arrival, glampers can check into their site and grab some drinks, and then they can cook their campfire hobo packs on their own grill or get a wood-fired pizza from the Tasting Room on the weekends. Barb and Mike’s daughter Sarah is the head chef at Slattery Vintage Estates. Sarah originally graduated from Creighton with a degree in graphic design, but then went onto Metropolitan Community College Institute for the Culinary Arts and graduated in 2011. Sarah creates the menus for the Tasting Room and for Heritage Hall, their reception venue. She described her cuisine style as upscale comfort food, crafting the menus based on what’s in season and what sounds fun to make️. Sarah, who caters all of the events, said, “We do wood fired pizzas during concerts, sometimes we do themed wine dinners, and we do festivals, as well, like our annual Cajunfest where I make New Orleans style foods including my famous bread pudding. In the cold months, we have our award-winning French Onion Soup, which placed second at the 2020 VNA Art & Soup Contest.” Sarah loves that she can work with her parents at Slattery Estates. “Sarah has her niche. We all have our niches,” Barb said. Barb runs the Tasting Room and she makes sure that all the guests feel special. Barb enjoys hearing their stories and appreciates it when they return to visit again. It is rare to find a female-owned and operated business, and SVE also has a female chef. Sarah says that the staff at SVE are all like family. They are loyal and most of them have worked on the property since they opened. Whether glamping or just stopping out for an evening, guests will enjoy the stunning landscape, the food and drinks, and the way that the staff at Slattery Vintage Estates treats everyone like family while they are there. 34 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

Barb Slattery, owner, and Sarah Slattery, head chef of Slattery Vintage Estates

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Tony Roza and Shelley Elson-Roza, owners of Heirloom Fine Foods

DINE EXPERT

Sourcing with HEIRLOOM FINE FOODS

Local, organic and sustainable “I like knowing who grows our food; I like knowing how much love they put into what they're growing,” shared Executive Chef and Co-founder Shelley Elson-Roza of Heirloom Fine Foods. Chef Shelley and her husband Tony, who serves as COO, were inspired to start a locally-focused, sustainable catering company roughly seven years ago. Around that time, the two were living in Chicago but wanted to get married in their hometown of Omaha. They envisioned a wedding close to family and with a strong sense of place in order to show friends from around the country the romanticism of Nebraska's summer landscape of blue skies and cornfields, Elson-Roza said. “We were a little bummed when we had difficulty finding a caterer that was excited about our wedding, excited about using locally sourced food, and excited about trying new things. After our wedding, we decided there was a great opportunity to change paths and start a catering company that had what we had been looking for.”

STORY BY KATY SPRATTE JOYCE

From the onset, sourcing locally and organically has been a key value for Heirloom Fine Foods. To make this even more clear, the business’ website espouses this fact with their business tenets: Live - locally sourced, Learn - sustainable practices, and Celebrate - life’s most precious moments. Inspired by places like Dan Barber’s Blue Hill at Stone Barns and Alice Waters’ Chez Panisse, the Rozas try to cook and live as much of a slow food life as possible. “We believe very deeply in supporting our local agricultural system, eating and cooking seasonally, and cooking from scratch,” the chef affirmed. That has resulted in Heirloom Fine Foods emerging as Omaha’s only caterer focused on local and organic foods, and one of two focused on zero waste practices. Their business mission statement echoes

aforementioned ones are weekly delivery partners. “I really enjoy working with farmers and getting to know them. Many have become some of our closest friends and people we admire…It's tremendously hard work and we like keeping as much money in our communities as possible,” Elson-Roza said. On a larger scale, Elson-Roza noted that it’s also tremendously important to source locally from a food security standpoint, as well as to develop products with the terroir of the region. “The Midwest needs to take pride and nurture our local food system[s],” Elson-Roza said. To get a taste of this local labor of love, patrons can look into Heirloom’s regular monthly offerings: an ever-changing themed Supper Club, High Tea, and various cooking classes, all held at their bespoke brick and mortar space.

these sentiments: “We are dedicated to supporting local agriculture by sourcing food from local farms and meat suppliers to obtain the highest quality ingredients while focusing on healthy, delicious, and nutritious food, often by reimagining classic dishes for life’s most special moments.” For local sourcing, the Rozas primarily focus on Nebraska and Iowa. Favorites include Plum Creek Farms for chicken, Jon's Naturals for beef, FarmTable Delivery and Lone Tree Foods for procurement, Honey Creek Creamery and Dutch Girl Creamery for cheeses, Flavor Country Farms for mushrooms, and they’ve also had a long working relationship with Fork N Farm. Heirloom Fine Foods sources from many other producers, as well, including from throughout the region, but the

PORTRAIT BY TENDENZA FOOD STYLING & PHOTOGRAPHY SHELLEY ELSON-ROZA'S

PA S S I O N

HEIRLOOM FINE FOODS 325 N 72nd St #200 (402) 378-2784 www.heirloomff.com

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DINE SUPPLIER

FAMILY FARM TO FAMILY TABLE Holistically raised at SAKURA WAGYU FARMS

STORY BY ANNA HARTMAN PHOTOS COURTESY OF SAKURA WAGYU FARMS

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akura Wagyu Farms, headquartered in Westerville, Ohio, produces beef cuts with luscious marbling reminiscent of the cherry blossoms (Sakura) adorning its logo. Loosely translated, wagyu simply means “cattle” in Japanese, but the Wagyu breed itself is widely considered a national treasure in its native country.

Raised in Japan, the Wagyu breed goes back centuries, with owners keeping pristine records. Originally put to work as plow animals on rice paddies, Wagyu bulls developed huge shoulder muscles and incredibly efficient energy storage. This muscling results in a somewhat unattractive silhouette, but the energy storage begets incredible marbling. Wagyu first appeared in the United States in the late 1970s, but Japan banned exports in the late 90s, so the window for

purchasing and developing genetically true herds was limited. Lawrence Adams and his partners were introduced to the breed in the early days, logging decades of research and work, making them wellversed in raising these unique animals. Adams, a Nebraska Wagyu producer, grew up in the central part of the state on a farm near Broken Bow, earned a degree in Animal Science from the University of Nebraska-Lincoln, and spent years raising feeder cattle when his three sons

New York strip DINENE BRASK A .COM 39

DINE SUPPLIER

were young. This experience led to one of his first businesses, Innovative Cattle Solutions, which set out to raise quality cattle through good feeding and marketing. It was during this time that Adams was introduced to the Wagyu breed, sparking years of extensive research, ultimately leading him to his current position as a managing partner of Sakura. Sakura Wagyu Farms, started in 2017, prides itself on providing holistically raised products from genetics to the plate. The combination of top researchers, industry experts, and farmers well-versed in animal husbandry create a unique environment that values honesty and integrity. The passionate, multi-generational family farmers in the Sakura network are committed to raising 100 percent Wagyu bulls crossed with Angus dams, resulting in docile, adaptable, healthy animals. Francis Pang, a geneticist with over 20 years of experience, directs the genetic tracing methods used to ensure purity of stock, and the cattle reside under roof in bedded barns, feeding on custom all-vegetarian rations formulated by Francis Fluharty, a former Ohio State University animal science professor and partner in the Sakura endeavor. Fluharty spent over 30 years researching dietary approaches that consider not only the result (incredible marbling and flavor) but also the health and well-being of the animals. Calves receive customized vaccinations that keep them free of disease, preventing the need for antibiotics or hormones, and stay close to their mothers until nine months. The goal is to create a calm, Zenlike environment for the animal, as lower stress increases product quality. Cattle are fed longer than usual (minimum 400 days, finishing at about 1,400 pounds), so rations include generous amounts of roughage, ensuring the rumen (stomach) remains in excellent shape. Relationships are paramount to the team at Sakura, providing mutual benefit to the family farmers, communities, producers, shippers, and ultimately the fortunate consumers of this fine product. Farms are scattered through the Midwest and the meat is processed at high-end plants in Ohio, Florida, Minnesota, and Nebraska. Sakura also works with small meat lockers 40 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

Filets

Burgers

Francis Pang of Ohio Wagyu and Beth Fox of Chad and Beth Fox Farms DINENE BRASK A .COM 41

DINE SUPPLIER

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Kim McCann (Marketing and Sales support) and Dr. Francis Fluharty (Sakura Nutritionist)

and boutique butchers, such as the Wyoming Meat Market near Cincinnati and The Bearded Butchers. Distribution is country-wide, recently extending to the Pacific Rim. Restaurants in the Omaha-Lincoln area serving Sakura Wagyu beef include Charred Burger Bar, serving 100% Wagyu beef in its specialty sliders and fine-dining destination Dolce, known for its chef-driven tasting menus highlighting the best in local ingredients. Adams enjoys working with his sons daily and says the variety of his work keeps him going, “One day I’ll be out with cattlemen on a ranch, then to growing yards, packing plants, distributors, restaurants, and retail stores.” He and his partners are truly involved from the genetics to the plate. Traditional, all-natural beef from Wagyu cattle, treated well, results in exquisite taste, tenderness, and nutritional value. High in Omega-3 fatty acids and monounsaturated fats, it’s more akin to fish than other types of beef, and, in moderation, is a satisfying part of a healthy diet. “Our best-selling cuts are ribs, strips, and tenders; everything is filling and so flavorful that a little goes a long way. Many of our customers find themselves sharing a steak,” shared Adams. His personal favorite cut is the ribeye, which he prepares with a sprinkling of salt and pepper, sears quickly in a hot cast iron pan, and tucks into the oven until it reaches his perfect temp of 110 degrees Fahrenheit. Sakura is passionately committed to producing the best beef in the world — tender, umami-rich beef with a unique taste and texture. You can purchase and pick up Sakura beef locally from LA & Sons Wagyu Beef in Blair, or order online at www.SakuraWagyuFarms.com. DINENE BRASK A .COM 43

DINE INGREDIENTS

Connecting with food and the experts STORY DINE CONTRIBUTOR PHOTOS BY THE VILLAGE POINTE FARMERS MARKET The Village Pointe Farmers Market strives to be a farmer friendly farmers market, which is one of the reasons our customers love our market so much – not only are they connected with great food, but they have the opportunity to meet the experts who grew their food. Started in 2005, Village Pointe Farmers Market was and remains the only farmers market in West Omaha. Every week, we average 18 individual farmers, ranchers and producers from the Omaha area, not to mention a local bakery and several cottage food vendors. Each season, we include new vendors but our core group of farmers and ranchers remains the same and it’s that consistency that has cemented our place in the community. Our customers can count on fresh veggies, local eggs and meats all season long, tomatoes in the summer, as well as fruits, sweet potatoes and apples in the fall. 44 DI N E M AGA Z I N E

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2020 was definitely the most challenging year for our market. Several vendors took the season off. Still, most of our farmers continued to show up. We were even able to extend our season by one week due to vendor and customer demand. This year, we will feature First Saturdays special events with locally made craft and food items, as well as balloon creations for kids of all ages, kettle corn and live music throughout our season. As we enter the second month of this season, we are excited to see our regulars as well as new families enjoy our market! We are open every Saturday through October 2nd, 8:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. with the first hour reserved for our senior citizens, those who are immune compromised, or expectant mothers. We will post vendor schedules and special events weekly on our Facebook, Instagram and Twitter pages. https://www.facebook.com/villagepointefarmersmarket https://www.instagram.com/villagepointefarmersmarket/ Twitter: @VPFM DINENE BRASK A .COM 47

Summer’s here

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