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Elevating the Nebraska dining experience
Unlock the creativity of charcuterie WINTER 2020
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Elevating the Nebraska dining experience VOLUME 1, ISSUE 2 WINTER 2020
PUBLISHER AND OWNER Carole Sprunk (402) 587-2259 // Carole@DineNebraska.com MANAGING EDITOR Kathy Rygg (402) 490-3213 // Kathy@DineNebraska.com CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Anna Hartman, Michael Meyer and Vera Lynn Petersen DESIGNERS Quentin Lueninghoener and Ben Vankat, Hanscom Park Studio (402) 517-1228 // Contact@HanscomPark.com PHOTO STAFF Christopher Tierney Photography (402) 350-5699 Joshua Foo Photography BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Melissa Minassian (402) 490-3799 // Melissa@DineNebraska.com ADVERTISING ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES Tom Patton (402) 214-5070 // Tom@DineNebraska.com CONTACT US (402) 587-2259 Carole@ DineNebraska.com PO Box 620 Elkhorn, NE 68022
Liz Rease (402) 639-6622 // Liz@DineNebraska.com ADVISORY BOARD Brian O’Malley, Metropolitan Community College Institute for the Culinary Arts Matthew Brown, Advanced Sommelier, V. Mertz
DINE is published quarterly. Content copyright © 2020 DINE Magazine. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, without permission in writing from the publisher, Carole Sprunk. Although care has been taken to ensure the accuracy, completeness and reliability of the information provided, DINE assumes no responsibility therefore. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to DINE Magazine, PO Box 620, Elkhorn, NE 68022 2 DI N E M A GA ZIN E
Table of Contents WAGYU, CORKAGE, AND SERVICE
THE BOILER ROOM
CHEF GLENN WHEELER
6
8
22
Dear Dine
A labor of love
The man behind the curtain
OMAHA HOSPITALITY HALL OF FAME
BORDEAUX, SOLDIER VALLEY SPIRITS, AND NEBRASKA BREWING COMPANY
DUTCH GIRL CREAMERY
24 Culinary fame
38
32 Wine, spirits, and beer
A bucolic legacy DINENE B RASKA . CO M 3
Letter from the publisher H
ere we are at the beginning of a new year, a new decade, and the second issue of Dine Magazine. I hope you loved the first one and look forward to what we have in store for you this issue and throughout the year. Our Discover section highlights the ever-popular art of Charcuterie. We were lucky to have the opportunity to interview several local chefs who have been perfecting their charcuterie talent for years, including Bryce Colton and Tim Nicholson and his team at The Boiler Room who shared their creativity and passion with us. Chef Glenn Wheeler from Spencer’s for Steaks and Chops shared his expertise and love of food, which stems in part from his multicultural heritage, as well as his passion for mentoring up-and-coming local talent. The power couple behind Shadow Brook Farm and Dutch Girl Creamery, Charuth van Beuzekom and Kevin Loth, give a behind-the-scenes tour of their impressive operation outside of Lincoln, NE, which included their herd of friendly, furry kids (goats that is).
4 DI N E M A GA ZIN E
Left to right: Kathy Rygg, Ben Vankat, Christopher Tierney, Melissa Minassian, Carole Sprunk, Tom Patton, Anna Hartman, Liz Rease, Quentin Lueninghoener Dine Magazine was proud to be the media sponsor for the Omaha Restaurant Association’s Hospitality Hall of Fame Awards Dinner this past October. The evening recognized six chefs who were inducted into the Hall of Fame and whose legacies were celebrated in a unique mix of food and beverages that paid homage to each one and were prepared by the talented chefs at Metropolitan Community College’s Institue for the Culinary Arts. The issue also includes interesting “Dear Dine” questions answered by
local industry experts, and the latest on what’s happening in the local arena for beer, wine, and spirits, all aimed to help educate our dining community and elevate the overall Nebraska dining experience. We hope you enjoy this issue and find value in each section. As always, we appreciate your feedback. Follow our Facebook page to stay up-to-date on videos, stories, and events going on at Dine. Carole Sprunk, Publisher
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DEAR DINE: What are corkage fees?
A small charge for opening a bottle of wine sold at retail price. Can be a flat fee or percentage of the bottle price. 6 DI N E M A GA ZIN E
In an effort to help elevate the Nebraska Dining experience, we answer the questions you’ve always wanted to ask while dining out.
Dear DINE Dear DINE, What makes Wagyu beef so special?
– Carole S. Dear Carole, Good question! It is easy to consume great food and not understand exactly where it comes from or why an ingredient may be better than others. Chef Kyle Anderson from Baela Rose helped explain that Wagyu is a Japanese cattle breed prized for the marbling of its high intramuscular fat content. He described Wagyu as having a fine, tender texture with deep flavor, making it more desirable than other beef. “At Baela Rose, we serve Wagyu because we want our customers to experience the best beef the land has to offer. We have a couple of favorite ways to showcase this beautiful flavor and texture profile. One is through our braised wagyu short ribs, which take several hours to complete. Another is a completely different preparation, our wagyu beef tartare, the focus being on the true and pure texture of wagyu beef,” said Anderson. Dear DINE, How do you overcome bad service at a restaurant you love? – Scotchandthefox Dear Scotchandthefox, This is a topic we can easily have our own opinions about, so for an expert’s opinion, we contacted Justin Gilmore, Director of Operations at both Dante and Forno. Gilmore explained, “I think if someone is having an experience that isn’t what they expected, they absolutely should ask for a manager. I would always love the opportunity to turn things around and create a happy ending to their experience with us. So many people seem to feel bad raising their hand when something isn’t going right. Or worse, they bottle it up and publish a public review later about how ‘terrible’ the place is, based on one experience. We strive to create a perfect experience for every guest, but we are all humans and sometimes we make mistakes. Give us the chance to do right by you right now, while you are here. I am always happy to listen. We would love to fix it if we can.” Gilmore also had a good point on understanding that everyone has different ideals for how things should taste, which can also affect an experience at a restaurant. He said, “Diners should understand what different restaurants offer and seek out things they expect to enjoy.” An example he gave was that a person may not like wood-fired pizza with a charred crust, but they should not become upset at the restaurant if this is something they do not enjoy. Instead, diners should remember that food is not automatically bad or of poor quality because it does not taste right to them.
Everyone has their own palate and taste preferences, and not every restaurant is going to fit each palate. Dear DINE, What are corkage fees and how do they work? Is there any other bringyour-own wine etiquette to know about? – Laura C. Many Omaha restaurants have switched to Wagyu beef to show off its superior flavor, giving us hundreds of options to try from fine dining at Baela Rose, to Porky Butts BBQ, or even a Block 16 burger special.
HAVE A RESTAURANTRELATED QUESTION? Email Dine Magazine and we’ll answer in an upcoming issue!
Dear Laura, Jake Dunwoody, a server and cook at La Buvette Wine & Grocery, explained to us that a corkage fee is used at some restaurants as a small charge for opening up a bottle of wine that they sell for retail price. “At La Buvette, the $4.50 corkage fee is nice because it can be a specific dollar amount instead of a percentage of the bottle.” He continued to share that this set corkage fee works well with nicer, more expensive bottles as it is a flat fee rather than a percentage of the cost of the bottle. Buying wine by the bottle is usually cheaper than buying by the glass at a restaurant, so if you are in the mood for a few drinks, you may be better off buying the whole bottle with the small additional corkage fee. As for bring-your-own wine etiquette, Dunwoody stated, “To bring in an outside bottle, we charge $25.00.” (Across the industry, corkage fees can range from $10-$40 or more). Dunwoody gave the example that a couple might come in for their anniversary with a bottle they drank on their wedding night. In that case the $25.00 corkage fee would apply. However, if they carry the bottle, it may be cheaper to buy it from the restaurant and pay the flat $4.50 corkage fee. Another reason for taking a bottle to a restaurant could also be that a person has a specific taste and wine preference that the restaurant may not offer. Whatever the reason may be, we recommend calling the restaurant ahead of time to find out what options and pricing they offer for corkage fees. DINENE B RASKA . CO M 7
DINE DISCOVER
At THE BOILER ROOM,
charcuterie is a
LABOR OF LOVE
C
Boiler Room’s cured meats
STORY BY ANNA HARTMAN PHOTOS BY JOSHUA FOO PHOTOGRAPHY 8 DI N E M A GA ZIN E
harcuterie, the art of crafting cured and preserved meats, is an exercise in faith, patience, and time. Requiring both precision and creativity, the field is ideal for patient, ambitious cooks with a penchant for personal expression. Preservation techniques came about as a matter of necessity for our ancestors, but today’s practitioners enjoy the benefit of modern technology through temperature and humidity-controlled chambers. Considered the “father” of artisan charcuterie in the modern Omaha dining scene, Bryce Coulton is an unassuming,
thoughtful person with varied passions, one of which happens to be preserving meats and produce. After retiring from the military and desiring a more handson, artistic outlet, Coulton completed an intensive culinary program at the famed Irish farm and cooking school, Ballymaloe. Returning to Omaha, he began working for Paul Kulik at The Boiler Room, where his analytic brain lent itself to starting an in-house charcuterie program. Next, Coulton took his charcuterie expertise to Pitch, and then he opened The French Bulldog in Dundee. After that spot closed, he assisted at Grey Plume Provisions, and today he continues
pâté en croûte, spiced nuts, pork rillette capped with jam, grilled sourdough bread, fermented mushroom salami, pepperoni, and Calabrian chile nduja.
DINENE B RASKA . CO M 9
DINE DISCOVER
Lucas Severson, Salumist
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salami
pâté en croûte
DINENE B RASKA . CO M 11
DINE DISCOVER
Danny Flores, Sous Chef
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to share his wealth of knowledge, occasionally consulting with Omaha salumists. Carrying on the tradition at The Boiler Room are award-winning Executive Chef Tim Nicholson and Salumist Lucas Severson. Nicholson’s countenance echoes the restaurant space: calm, clean, open, and bright. The overall vibe on the morning I visited was focused but relaxed. To wit, I caught a bit of Justin Bieber blaring from the restaurant’s speakers as the chefs prepped for service. Severson set out to be a baker, but after a stage at the Boiler Room piqued his interest in charcuterie, he set his sights on a position as line cook. Soon he was devouring books by Michael Ruhlman, scanning the internet for ideas, and simply trying things at the restaurant.
Local purveyor TD Niche has provided the pork since the restaurant’s inception. Employing classical techniques, the chefs make use of every inch of the animal through meticulous fabrication and preparation. Nicholson remarked, “We don’t like throwing stuff away here unless it is totally and completely spent.” The most popular cured meats at the restaurant come from whole muscle cuts: copa (shoulder), prosciutto (leg), fiocco (small muscle of hog leg), and culatello (leg) followed by cured sausages such as salami. Classic flavor profiles are preferred, but the chefs enjoy experimenting, tweaking ratios until the desired taste is achieved. Only then will the product find its way to the diner. One recent creative offering was a negroni salami, modeled after the popular cocktail.
XXXX
DINENE B RASKA . CO M 13
DINE DISCOVER
Charcuterie
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house-made sourdough bread
DINENE B RASKA . CO M 15
DINE DISCOVER
Charcuterie boards lend themselves well to all wines, effortlessly bridging the gap between red and white. For example, red Burgundy pairs beautifully with prosciutto, and rosĂŠ enjoyed with charcuterie is a revelation. 16 DI N E M A GA ZIN E
Tim Nicholson, Executive Chef
In addition to charcuterie, Severson creates beautiful and delicious pâté en croûte. These traditional dishes feature distinct layers and unique flavor combinations wrapped in pâte brisée and baked. Broth (often made from prosciutto bone) is clarified and natural gelatin leveraged to create an aspic, which is then added to the item and cooled. The served boards at The Boiler Room manage to be at once extravagant and restrained, reflecting all things local, including the walnut that comprises the
board itself. Bolstered by a hearty, housemade sourdough, sliced thick and grilled, the meat board typically comprises four base items (rillettes, salami, cured whole muscle meats, and an auxiliary) and accoutrements. Rillettes is a name used to describe cooked, shredded meat preserved in fat. The result is a spreadable texture and flavor reminiscent of the canned meat that my grandma preserved and cousins coveted. Salami, a well-seasoned dried or cured sausage, provides flavor and
texture, whereas thinly-sliced cured whole muscle meats such as prosciutto bring a contrasting buttery softness. Popular accoutrements include house-made lactofermented pickles, mustards, spiced nuts, and local preserves. Charcuterie boards lend themselves well to all wines, effortlessly bridging the gap between red and white. For example, red Burgundy pairs beautifully with prosciutto, and rosé enjoyed with charcuterie is a revelation. All of the wines offered at The Boiler Room pair DINENE B RASKA . CO M 17
DINE DISCOVER
Nicholson prepping charcuterie board
18 DI N E M A GA ZIN E
well with charcuterie, but Nicholson’s favorite is champagne. “The bubbles do a great job of cutting through the richness of the meat, preparing your palate for the next bite,” he explained. Ready to try curating a board for your next home gathering, possibly crafting a component or two in your own kitchen? Nicholson recommends thinking about the board as an interactive experience—include both sweet and savory flavors, a vehicle such as breads or crackers on which to consume bites, and a cheese option, if desired. For homemade accoutrements, consider bursts of flavor and texture provided by mustards, jellies, or candied/spiced nuts. Baking homemade bread or crackers is also an easy and impressive way to customize your unique offering. Place items on the board not just for visual impact, but to encourage guests to try different bits and bites together, finding new, appealing combinations. Omaha offers excellent options for those who wish to try their own hand at crafting charcuterie or simply pick up locally made products. Cure Omaha provides both private and public classes, as well as many incredible items available for purchase. Metropolitan Community College occasionally offers charcuterie courses through its Continuing Education program, and Sage Student Bistro often features house-made charcuterie on its dinner menu. Andrew Novak
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RECIPE FOR
Charcuterie Accoutrements
Blue Cheese and Pecan Crackers
Whole Grain Dijon Mustard
¼ ¼ ½ ½ ½ 1
cup brown mustard seeds cup yellow mustard seeds cup dry white wine cup white wine vinegar teaspoon salt teaspoon brown sugar
1.
Place mustard seeds, wine, and vinegar in a small bowl or container, cover, and let soak at room temperature for 2 days. Transfer mustard seeds and liquid to blender. Add salt and sugar and puree until paste just forms, leaving some whole seeds for texture. Transfer to an airtight container and rest in refrigerator for at least 2 days before serving.
4 ounces butter 8 ounces blue cheese 6 ounces all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon salt 2 ounces finely chopped pecans
1.
Cream butter, add cheese, and mix well. Add flour and salt, mix to thoroughly combine, and stir in the nuts. Roll into 1-3 logs, about 1 ½ to 2 inches diameter, depending on preference. Wrap tightly and chill at least 1 hour.
2. Remove from refrigerator, unwrap, and slice thin (⅛ -¼ inch). Place on parchment-lined sheet pan and bake at 350° F for 8-10 minutes until crisp. Cool on wire rack. Store in an airtight container for up to 3 days. 20 DI N E M A GA ZIN E
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Great kitchens are the result of great relationships The Open Kitchen Podcast with Brian O’Malley shares the un-crafted narratives and hard-learned lessons from personalities (perhaps luminaries) inside today’s supportive, demanding and exciting restaurant world.
TUNE IN BEGINNING JANUARY 2020
DINENE B RASKA . CO M 21
DINE EXPERT
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Bringing a quarter century of experience to the kitchen every day, CHEF GLENN WHEELER mentors the next generation
The man behind the curtain Omaha is lucky to have many talented chefs, and one in particular has as much passion to help raise up another generation of talented chefs as he has for serving great food. This past November, Chef Glenn Wheeler celebrated 25 years of restaurant service in Omaha. He was born in Los Angeles, then moved to Chicago as a child. He started working in the kitchen at age 15, studied at Le Cordon Bleu, College of Culinary Arts in Chicago, and eventually found his way into the culinary world of Omaha. He is currently the Executive Chef at Spencer’s for Steaks and Chops, a position he began in 2010. Wheeler’s Chicago roots has often influenced his menu at Spencer’s, such as Italian beef with flatbread. “I enjoy taking memories and flavors from Chicago and putting a spin on them for a fine dining atmosphere,” he said. Several of his dishes are influenced by his mother’s Mexican heritage and even his own time spent in South Carolina. He especially loves being able to work with Carolina Gold Rice, Crab Rice, and Sea Island Red Peas from Charleston as these ingredients are not often found in Omaha. To compete with Wheeler’s passion for bringing in flavors of his own life, he also has a passion for supporting local farmers and midwestern flavors. He said, “It is fun getting to know the farmers and ranchers from our area. They come through the back door and deliver the meat and product themselves as a personal appeal, and I like that a lot.” He additionally takes time in the summer to grow his own peppers, tomatoes, and herbs for the restaurant. Spencer’s winter menu features several new dishes including a Plum Creek Farms roasted chicken and a Snake River Farms
Wagyu brisket. Preparation for the roasted chicken begins with brining the breast and turning the hind quarters into confit. The confit is then added to a risotto with local mushrooms and topped with the roasted chicken breast. The uniqueness of this Wagyu brisket dish is that the fattier part of the brisket is turned into a red onion and brisket marmalade that tops the flat portion of the brisket while being served with a side of spaghetti squash. Each dish is perfectly heartwarming for the cold weather days, especially with the heartiness of doubling the meat. Outside of the culinary world, Wheeler’s mission is to mentor young chefs. On average, he accepts four students a year for apprenticeship. Many of them come from The Institute for the Culinary Arts at Metropolitan Community College, and recently he began accepting students from No More Empty Pots, which has a Culinary Workforce Training Program. Wheeler’s teaching focuses on taking each person into his kitchen to try to bring out their own passion and drive, while teaching them proper cooking skills. He explained, “I teach them what it is going to take in this industry. It’s not all about going to cooking school with new stoves and equipment. Instead, you come into a restaurant and a thermostat is broken. It’s not going to be the perfect test kitchen that you grew up in.” There are quite a few things that excite Chef Wheeler about the restaurant industry. “The main thing for me in Omaha is seeing the rise of the younger chefs,” he said. “Some have worked with
STORY BY VERA LYNN PETERSEN PORTRAIT BY CHRISTOPHER TIERNEY PHOTOGRAPHY WHEELER’S PA S S I O N S
SPENCER’S FOR STEAKS AND CHOPS 102 S 10th St, Omaha (402) 280-8888 spencersomahaforsteaksandchops.com me in the past and others not, but I think I know all of them personally. It’s exciting to see what they are doing to step up the game here. They are making it exciting and a good dining city.” A few of the mentioned young chefs that he believes are making wonderful food included Jake Newton at V. Mertz, Tim Nicholson at Boiler Room, Ben Maides at Au Courant Regional Kitchen, and Kane Adkisson at Kano. Wheeler’s own children are also in the industry. His daughter is graduating from The Institute for the Culinary Arts this spring and his son currently works with him at Spencer’s. Wheeler said that throughout his time in Omaha, people have always been supportive of him and his efforts to give to others. “I would love to see more people coming out and supporting any charitable events that I participate in as we do a lot of them. They are all very worthwhile charities.” The respect Omaha has for Chef Wheeler was not solely gained by serving great food, but additionally deepened by his understanding of community. DINENE B RASKA . CO M 23
DINE SCENE
Brian O’Malley, The Institute for the Culinary Arts at Metropolitan Community College 24 DI N E M A GA ZIN E
Culinary fame
STORY BY VERA LYNN PETERSEN PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHRISTOPHER TIERNEY PHOTOGRAPHY
A night at the Omaha Hospitality Hall of Fame Induction Dinner feels like attending a culinary family reunion. It is a night full of glamor— everyone dressing their best, sipping on cocktails, and feasting on the immense presentation of that evening’s delicacies. The Omaha Hospitality Hall of Fame was founded in 1993 to honor those who significantly impact the hospitality community. Every October an induction dinner is held at Metropolitan Community College’s Institute for the Culinary Arts (ICA) to recognize that year’s inductees. The dinner is a collaborative event by the Omaha Hospitality Hall of Fame Board, the Omaha Restaurant Association, and ICA.
DINENE B RASKA . CO M 25
DINE SCENE
salad with confit butternut squash, honey poached cranberries, pistachio, and mascarpone cheese
Yves Menard, 2019 inductee 26 DI N E M A GA ZIN E
One must be nominated in order to be considered for induction into the Hall of Fame. Categories for nominations include Restaurant Owners, Managers and Caterers, Purveyors, Chefs, Educators and Food Service Directors, and Special Classification. This year’s inductees whose achievements were honored included Michael J. Ancona, Gene Cammarota, Howard N. Epstein, Steve Epstein, Yves Menard, and Matt and Jennie Warren. The event creates a complimentary layering of achievement. Attendees are of utmost talent, while the team running behind the scenes also includes a mix of highly talented students, professors, and chefs of the community. The dinner team performs their best to honor the ones that made a difference before them. Of the many people dedicated to making the night a success, one vital member of the evening is Chef Michael Combs, Executive Chef for ICA. “I have been preparing the food for the Hall of Fame for eight years,” he said. “It takes quite a few people, and it varies on labor. It probably takes an
average of 50-60 people to execute the event, everything from the event planning to the execution of food.” This year, Combs had the intricate job of creating the menu for the night, which included three courses for 320 attendees. He explained, “I try to come up with something somewhat classic, but I usually put a modern twist on it. It seems well received, and the inductees can usually identify with the food. The salad has to be well thought out. It is preset, so it needs to hold for at least 45 minutes. It has to be beautiful and delicious, even after it has been out for that long. It is a challenge to come up with a different salad that will hold up like that every year. We do everything from scratch and we push the envelope on what can be done on this scale. We try to get better every year.” While the salads were being preset, attendees were welcomed with a cocktail hour. Hors d’ouvres and cocktails were presented in each of the kitchens and baking labs of the school, each room decorated in theme to admire each
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DINE SCENE
Michael J. Ancona, 2019 inductee 28 DI N E M A GA ZIN E
inductee. “When it comes to the appetizers before dinner, we try to offer something associated with the history of the inductee,” Combs explained. For instance, if the inductee was known for selling chicken wings, he would try to replicate them, but with his own spin. One of the busiest rooms during cocktail hour was the one dedicated to inductees Matt and Jennie Warren. It was filled with fun bar foods of mini burgers and wings, along with colorful fishbowl drinks filled with toy frogs. “The drinks and appetizers were most representative of us because they take us back to our roots and our first ownership experience,” said Matt Warren. “The fishbowl drink was a recipe that we created to enhance the concept of Billy Frogg’s, and the appetizers were a great representation of the menu.” If a guest was not gulping down a fishbowl, they were most likely down the hall feasting on delicate oysters representing Gene Cammarota’s history, which featured corn fritters and oysters on the half shell. “These were appetizers that people really enjoyed at the Brass Grille and Come on into my Kitchen,” said Cammarota. The evening commenced with each inductee giving a speech that honored their families, coworkers, and community while guests enjoyed an intricate salad made of confit butternut squash, honey poached cranberries, pistachio, mascarpone, and a grape musk vinaigrette. The main entree was a crowd-pleasing dish of braised short ribs, sauce bourguignon, potatoes, root vegetables, and red onion streusel.
Gene Cammarota, 2019 inductee DINENE B RASKA . CO M 29
DINE SCENE
Matt Warren, 2019 inductee
Steve Epstein, 2019 inductee 30 DI N E M A GA ZIN E
Jim Trebbien
The crowd continued to hear personal life stories from each inductee such as the journey Yves Menard took to open Austin’s Steakhouse and Charlie’s on the Lake, how Howard N. Epstein and Steve Epstein influenced Omaha with the wholesale food service distribution business, E.L. Nogg Fruit Company, which was sold to Demma Fruit Company in 1991, and how Michael J. Ancona was appointed President of Reinhart Foodservice after a successful merger with Food Services of America. “I was both honored and humbled to be inducted into the Omaha Hospitality Hall of Fame,” said Cammarota. “To be included with the people whose pictures are on the wall was a little overwhelming. My mother and father would have been proud. When I was a young cook in a moment of self-doubt, a chef once said to me, ‘March or Die!’ and that has always stuck with me.” Warren also shared, “The honor of being inducted into the Hall of Fame is both humbling and validating. It means the work we have done over the many years is noticed and appreciated
by the restaurant community. It is an immense honor to join so many talented and respected people in the hospitality business.” As for Combs’ favorite part of the day, he said, “I enjoyed putting out the coursed meal. There is a lot of coordination with the front of the house and the back of the house to make sure the food is hot and as fresh as it can possibly be. The camaraderie is the best part. Working with people from all skill levels and just having a great time doing it.” The Omaha culinary community is lucky to have a team that encourages one another to continually make the city better, especially by awarding people of integrity that have helped Omaha grow to where it is today. Combs agreed with the importance and mission of the Hospitality Hall of Fame. He explained, “I believe it makes a great impact on the community. Our students are able to complete a great program for a fraction of the cost, and they join our local workforce to display what they have learned, which benefits everyone from the employer to the consumer.”
Howard N. Epstein, 2019 inductee
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DINENE B RASKA . CO M 31
32 DI N E M A GA ZIN E
DINE WINE
Warm up this winter with a glass of something special, says V. MERTZ Sommelier Matt Brown
Cozy up with Bordeaux Bordeaux wines are perfect for cozy winter meals, lending a satisfying complexity when paired with braised dishes, hearty baked pastas, or roasted vegetables and meats. Though 90 percent of grape varietals grown in Bordeaux are red, the region also boasts interesting whites, including Sauternes, a delightful dessert wine. A popular region in France, Bordeaux comprises two distinct areas split by the Gironde River Estuary. Nearly all Bordeaux wines are a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, bringing out the best in each varietal. These varietals are also grown here in the New World, but don’t expect them to taste like their Old World counterparts. Due to differences in terroir (growing conditions), a Bordeaux can taste completely different than a Napa Cab. Familiarizing yourself with regional areas is helpful in identifying desired flavor profiles, as French wine labels rarely list varietal names. In the left bank’s Medoc region, Cabernet Sauvignon, a thicker-skinned grape that produces a heartier, more tannic wine, grows well. On the right bank, in St. Emilion and Pomerol, clay soils are better suited to growing Merlot, resulting in a mellower, more velvety profile. White Bordeaux wines blend Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc, resulting in a refreshing dry white that pairs well with white fish or a light pesto. Excellent white
Bordeaux bottles are produced in Pessac Leognan (right bank) and Medoc (left bank). According to Advanced Sommelier Matt Brown of V. Mertz, “Food and wine have a very dynamic relationship.” Pay attention to the flavor and texture of both the wine and the food. Do the flavors complement or contrast? For example, wine’s natural acidity can cut through heavy dishes, whereas fat helps reduce tannin in wine so you can taste other nuances. Classic red Bordeaux left bank pairings include red meat and hearty or spicy dishes that complement the darker, more tannic notes in the wine. Right bank Bordeaux offerings pair beautifully with roasted duck, pork, or Asian flavors. For dessert, Sauternes is a stunning partner for peaches. If you enjoy red wine, do yourself a favor and try a bottle or two of Bordeaux. When in doubt, ask questions. Wine experts—whether in your local spirits shop or favorite restaurant—are happy to help.
Paris
Bordeaux
FRANCE
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DINE SPIRITS
PATRIARCH DISTILLERS and SOLDIER VALLEY SPIRITS’ Jeff Hadden has gotten big doing something small
Small-batch, big flavor Jeff Hadden, founder of Patriarch Distillers/Soldier Valley Spirits, is a military veteran who is passionate about family, service, and small-batch distillation. Award-winning, handcrafted bourbon, vodka, rum, and whiskies are packaged and sold in a unique bottle modeled after the iconic World War II canteen, each label featuring a meaningful story about a veteran and highlighting the ‘6’ logo, which in military terms means “I’ve got your back.” Hadden’s interest in distilling started small, but after training with master distillers such as Jimmy Bedford at Jack Daniels, he quickly outgrew his garage and moved into the current location. Echoing the transient nature of the military, everything was originally built on casters for easy transport. If you visit the tasting room, you’ll notice the bar remains on wheels today. Grains used to make the distinctive offerings are sourced locally, and the water comes from Soldier, Iowa, hometown of Hadden’s father and the company’s namesake. Aging happens in new American white oak barrels, crafted by regional artisan coopers from nearby Minnesota. Spent barrels are recycled and ultimately used for artisan furniture. Unique to Patriarch is the private barrel experience, essentially an extended class in which budding distillers can leverage on-site equipment and knowledge to craft bespoke whiskies and bourbons. Students meet with distiller Tony Chickinelli to
discuss desired flavor profiles, and he ferments the batch accordingly. When the mash is ready to distill, students return to complete the process. Chickinelli said the learning is reciprocal, and he is often inspired to try new things based on customer interactions. Tours and a tasting room are available on-site, and the operation is part of the Exit 442 group, promoting craft beverage producers with locations near the I-80 exit. Next month, look for the third annual Groundhog Day event in which Exit 442 brewers offer beers aged in Patriarch barrels. Visit the tasting room for a tour or to try unique flavored whiskey options, including a seasonal caramel apple and the wildly popular blackberry whiskey, created for an ice fishing tournament in South Dakota (ice fisherman are known to enjoy a nip of blackberry brandy when on the ice). For more information, visit soldiervalleyspirits.com.
Solider Valley Rye
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DINE BEER
NEBRASKA BREWING COMPANY President and Co-Founder Paul Kavulak has patience with his Russian Imperial Stout
The Betty of beers Nebraska Brewing Company opened its doors in 2007 in Papillion at the Shadow Lake Towne Center. Within one year’s time, the start of a wonderful line of stouts would soon be released that not only grabbed the attention of local craft beer enthusiasts but of those around the country! So, what makes a Russian Imperial Stout different than a normal stout? Tyson Arp, Lead Brewer, explained that it is the intense flavors of coffee, dark fruit, and chocolate that present themselves in this decadent, roasty, higher alcohol beer. Arp said he created a base recipe while homebrewing that took on the characteristics of one of the great Russian Imperial Stouts called Old Rasputin from North Coast Brewing Company. The recipe Arp created does a great job with the use of hops to balance out the stout to keep it from getting too sweet. Paul Kavulak, President and Co-Founder of Nebraska Brewing Company, said he felt right away there was something special about this beer. Instead of bottling or putting it directly on tap, Kavulak wanted to see what it would be like aged in whiskey barrels. The first batch produced in 2008 went straight into four barrels to spend six months absorbing the whiskey and oak flavors from the barrel. The beer turned out incredibly well and was named “Black Betty.” The name was derived from a couple of different meanings. The first was from the original Lead Belly song about an 18th-century marching cadence with a flint-lock
musket with a black painted stock. The “bam-ba-lam” lyric refers to the sound of the gunfire. Another common interpretation is that “Black Betty” refers to a certain bottle of whiskey found in northern England/southern Scotland. Over the next eleven years the Betty line would expand to include “Little Betty,” “Sexy Betty,” and “Rebel Betty.” A different recipe but still in the Betty series is M.O.A.B—”Mother of All Bettys.” It is brewed with twice as much grain and double mashed to make it a slightly sweeter Betty, bourbon barrelaged and around 13% ABV. Other M.O.A.B variants include Jack Daniels whiskey, tequila, and cabernet sauvignon barrel aged. I asked Kim Kavulak, Co-Founder of Nebraska Brewing Company, what makes these beers so unique? Kim responded, “One of our main goals is to make sure that any beer we barrel-age is complemented by the barrel and doesn’t become overtaken by it. Great care goes into the process from the selection of the barrel to the aging and finally bottling.” Kim went on to say, “It has been nice to receive awards over the years for the beer, but true success is seeing our customer’s reaction and compliments.” The Betty Series is truly something you
need to experience. One of my favorite times of year is January/February with the release of M.O.A.B. The Nebraska Brewing Company taproom at 108th and Harrison is full of excited patrons waiting to get their hands on this limited and very special beer. Anytime you have the chance to try a Betty series stout, I encourage you to do so. Cheers!
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DINE SOURCE
A bucolic legacy STORY BY ANNA HARTMAN PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHRISTOPHER TIERNEY PHOTOGRAPHY
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haruth van Beuzekom and Kevin Loth have been diligent stewards of the land for nearly 25 years, raising crops and feisty goats on 34 fertile acres near Lincoln, Nebraska. On a brisk autumn day while touring the farm operation, I inquired about plans for commemorating a quarter-century of work. The couple expressed surprise, wholly unaware of the coming anniversary. Time passes quickly while you are raising three children on a working farm, knee-deep in dirt, cheese, and the minutiae involved in building an ethical small business that inspires new perspectives. The couple met at University of California, Santa Cruz, where Van Beuzekom was studying biology and Loth was focusing on environmental studies. After their first child arrived, they headed back to Loth’s home state of Nebraska, starting Shadow Brook Farms in 1995. Within two years they were introducing Midwestern palates to coastal flavors in both Lincoln and Omaha, selling bag after bag of mesclun greens to customers lined up 75-deep before the booth opened. Visionaries and proponents of a regional food system, they collaborated in 2005 with local food producer Jim Caruso to start a Sunday market, still going strong today as the Sunday Market at College View in Lincoln.
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DUTCH GIRL CREAMERY (402) 421-2383 shadowbrk.com
Aging cave
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Kevin Loth and Charuth van Beuzekom
Natalie in Gray cheese
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Pink peppercorn and chive gouda
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an Beuzekom was born in Rosas, Spain, and spent her early childhood in Holland and formative years in California. It was there that she discovered a love for cheesemaking, tending her own goat and using the milk to create fresh, homemade cheeses. This passion never faded, so Shadow Brook Farm acquired a small goat herd in 2006 and Dutch Girl Creamery was born. In collaboration with Krista Dittman, another local cheesemaker, Van Beuzekom used grants to fund production, education, and further research into European-style artisan cheese production at Neal’s Yard Dairy in London and dairies in both Italy and Spain. The business was a success, and a production facility was raised on the farm property in 2013. Most goats in the herd are direct descendants of the original two: Stella and Luna (named for the popular children’s book Stellaluna, featuring an adorable little fruit bat). All breeding is done on-site, with additional bucks procured from nearby producers as needed (the couple cleverly names the bucks—Elvis, Debonnaire, and Guapo). The mothers gestate over the winter and babies are
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graydon blue cheese
garden herb chevre
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born in late winter/very early spring. They are bottle fed, and the farm welcomes visitors to help every spring. The mischievous herd enjoys rotational grazing on the 13 acres of alfalfa, and all feed is locally and sustainably produced. Completing the sustainability circle, compost goes right back into the fields.
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chese vat
heese, like wine, is an expression of terroir in that the animal breeds are nourished by food grown in the local soil, affecting flavor in myriad ways. The unique milk from the herd is the base for the careful blend of science and creativity needed to craft incredible artisan cheese. Our tour of the USDA-compliant creamery started with wheels of Gouda laid out on a table, designed specifically for the holiday season with chive and pink peppercorn representing traditional green and red colors. The walk-in cooler held buckets of the tart Calypso, an aged feta-style chevre nestled in a briny pool, perfect for salads and mezze platters or sneaky fridge snacking. Natalie in Gray, named after her oldest son Graydon, a blue cheese covered in ash, is delightful on a cheese board or as part of a decadent grilled cheese. A Camembert-style goat cheese named Manon awaits its time to shine next to large containers of the best-selling Chevre Frais, a soft, lemony, fresh goat cheese. Next, we got a peek inside the “cave�, a temperature-controlled room designed to mimic traditional caves in which cheeses were aged in Europe. On wooden boards rests the award-winning Rosa Maria, a Spanish-style cheese. Named after van Beuzekom, whose middle name is Maria, this cheese is aged between four and 12 months, soft and mild when young, increasing in complexity and sharpness with age. Popular with local chefs, it jazzes up dishes with zingy umami flavor. Dolle Mina, finalist for a 2020 Good Food Award, has a compelling naming
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story. The Dutch-style Gouda is named after Van Beuzekom’s mother, whose photo appears when the term is entered into a Google search. The translation of dolle mina is “crazy woman,” a moniker given in the 70s in Utrecht to activist radicals.
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oth and Van Beuzekom have been unfailingly forthcoming with knowledge, helping those who came after them. “We wanted to raise the bar and grow our competition—we never kept secrets,” remarked Loth. This willingness to help proved instrumental in diversifying growers and spreading market customers among stands. Passing along these skills and inspiring the next generation is essential to maintaining the ability to eat local.
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In 2019, Ian Richmond, another local farmer, took over the vegetable plots and market stands, and moving forward, they would also like to pass along more of the existing knowledge and structure, creating fresh opportunities for younger, more exuberant farmers. Van Beuzekom is exploring the possibility of purchasing milk from other dairies, which would enable her to focus on cheese making rather than goat raising and allow expansion of the cheese operation to the off season. As we all do, the couple is moving to another phase of life, taking a step back to slow down and feed their passions, including crafting artisan cheese that mirrors the farm itself: complex, hearty, nuanced, and full of character.
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October celebrated the launch of the premier issue of Dine Magazine. We partnered with The Institute of the Culinary Arts at Metropolitan Community College to hold a launch party in celebration of the first issue of Dine, which will publish quarterly. More than 100 guests from the food and beverage industry, partners, and consumers enjoyed the poutine buffet, signature cocktails, and an inside look into the pages of Dine! Thank you to everyone who joined us, and we look forward to celebrating each issue of Dine throughout 2020!
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M A G A Z I N E PO Box 620, Elkhorn, NE 68022
EXPERIENCE FOOD. Open Kitchen programs at Metropolitan Community College offer award-winning, hands-on workshops, pairing studios, chef-led travel, youth camps and team-building programs.
To learn more and see available courses, visit mccneb.edu/okw.