2ND
ANNIVERSARY
EDITION
WONTON JON’S • GLACIAL TILL F IRST ST RE E T BRE WING • NITE OWL ROPER’S • V. MERTZ • MILLER DOHRMANN
Elevating the Nebraska dining experience
DISCOVERING LOCAL COFFEE CULTURE
FALL 2021 2ND ANNIVERSARY EDITION
COME ON BY FOR A SMALL TOWN, GOOD TIME AT DAVID CITY’S BRAND NEW SPORTS BAR AND GRILL FEATURING GREAT SERVICE, FANTASTIC FOOD & LOCAL BREWS!
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We aspire to provide a dining experience that is unparalleled.
R e s e r va t i o n s s u g g e s t e d mahoganyprimesteakhouse.com
13665 California St., Omaha, NE 68154 402-445-4380
Elevating the Nebraska dining experience VOLUME 3, ISSUE 1 FALL 2021
PUBLISHER AND OWNER Carole Sprunk (402) 587-2259 // Carole@DineNebraska.com CO-OWNER Michael Meyer (402) 517-0350 // Michael@DineNebraska.com EXECUTIVE EDITOR Kathy Rygg (402) 490-3213 // Kathy@DineNebraska.com
DINE is published quarterly. Content copyright © 2021 DINE Magazine. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, without permission in writing from the publisher, Carole Sprunk. Although care has been taken to ensure the accuracy, completeness and reliability of the information provided, DINE assumes no responsibility therefore. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to DINE Magazine, PO Box 620, Elkhorn, NE 68022
CONTACT US (402) 587-2259 Carole@ DineNebraska.com PO Box 620 Elkhorn, NE 68022 2 DI N E M AGA Z I N E
MANAGING EDITOR Gabby Hellbusch (402) 320-7080 // Gabby@DineNebraska.com CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Nicole Buntgen, Anna Hartman, Katy Spratte Joyce, Holly McAtee, and Michael Meyer DESIGNERS Quentin Lueninghoener and Ben Vankat, Hanscom Park Studio (402) 517-1228 // Contact@HanscomPark.com PHOTO STAFF Christopher Tierney Photography (402) 350-5699 Tendenza Food Styling & Photography (402) 321-3928 ADVERTISING ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Nicole Buntgen (402) 367-2526 // Nicole@DineNebraska.com ADVISORY BOARD Brian O’Malley, Metropolitan Community College Institute for the Culinary Arts Matthew Brown, Advanced Sommelier, V. Mertz
Rotella’s Italian Bakery has grown well beyond the dream of Alessandro and Maria’s 1921 bakery, a small single room operation at 21st & Pierce St. What’s more astonishing than our growth, however, is how much has remained the same. Industrial mixers have replaced the kneading we once muscled through. And wood-fired ovens are a thing of the past. But we continue to place our family’s values at the center of every decision, and in doing so we look forward to the next 100 years.
The founder’s son, Louis Sr., guided the company through decades of expansion. Often using the salutation, “We wish you the very best, from the Rotella family,” he lived out that catchphrase, always putting customers’ best interest first. He passed down his steadfast commitment to quality and service to his son, Louis Jr., Rotella’s current CEO and President. Louis Jr. devoted his career to product and business development, propelling the bakery from local legend to a national leader. DINENE BRASK A .COM 3
Table of Contents ARCHETYPE COFFEE, ZEN COFFEE COMPANY & HARDY COFFEE CO.
ROPER’S BAR AND GRILL
8
GLACIAL TILL VINEYARD, NITE OWL & FIRST STREET BREWING CO.
10
26
A day trip to David City
Coffee crawl
Wine, beer & spirits
V. MERTZ
WONTON JON’S
MILLER DOHRMANN FARM
32 Contemporary & classic elegance 4 DI N E M AGA Z I N E
34 Food truck frenzy
40 Raised & processed with love
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STORY TELLING
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8/26/21 11:20 AM
Letter from the editor Nothing says fall quite like cozying up with a good read and a piping hot drink or meal. Luckily for our readers, we are here to supply the perfect reading material, which also includes tasty recommendations to make you feel warm and fuzzy inside.
DINE COMMUNITY
First up, we discover local coffee shops, focusing on some of their most popular drinks this season. Hardy Coffee Co., Archetype Coffee, and Zen Coffee Company. give us an inside FIND THE glimpse into the coffee making process and FLATWARE! unique touches used for crafting the perfect cup Hidden in this of joe. issue is the The toasty beverage trend is very evident in image of a fork this issue, as our spirits, wine, and beer stories and spoon. take a look at the offerings at Nite Owl, Glacial Be the first to Till Vineyard & Winery, and First Street Brewing snap a photo Co. of the flatware Miller Dohrmann Farm also invited us for and share on a visit to show us what the operation is up to Facebook and/ heading into this season, which can be found on or Instagram the pages of our supplier section. and tag This issue’s expert find is none other than V. @dinenebraskamagazine. Mertz’s new executive chef, Amanda Sheeler, If you are the who doesn’t hold back when it comes to sharing first one, you her best tricks and tips. will win a $50 On the scene right now are food trucks! This fun gift card to concept is wildly popular throughout Nebraska’s J. Coco. One communities and local food truck Wonton Jon’s entry per issue, tells us why this trend is here to stay. please. Let’s A brand new section, Dine Around Nebraska, share the love! is also introduced in this issue, showcasing small town pub Roper’s Bar & Grill located in David City. Stay tuned as we uncover more hidden gems throughout Nebraska Finding in upcoming editions! community at the Table Something that never goes out of style from season to season is supporting local. Please continue to dine, shop and visit your local Nebraska businesses. As always, we could not share these special stories without the support of our loyal The flatware readers and advertisers, for whom we hid on page are extremely grateful for. I hope you’ll enjoy 10 in the this issue as much as our team enjoyed bringing Community these stories to you! section of the Gabby Hellbusch summer issue. Managing Editor STORY BY VERA LYNN PETERSEN PHOTO COURTESY OF KITCHEN TABLE
Jessica and Colin Duggan, owners of Kitchen Table
10 DINE MAGAZINE
It is easily noticed that in this last year during the pandemic it was harder than normal to find community. One downtown restaurant in particular worked hard to continue feeding their regulars, along with giving extra to those in need. Colin and Jessica Duggan opened Kitchen Table in June 2013 with the intention of their restaurant feeling like the community found around the kitchen table. While Colin focused on making his own bread and creating complex sandwich recipes, Jessica identified the importance for the restaurant to be inclusive to all types of eaters, whether meat or vegetarian, furthering the concept of needs found around a kitchen table. After years of working in a corporate kitchen, as well as a union, Colin wanted to create a kitchen environment where any of their workers could step in to a task and not feel stuck to one role. With most of their ingredients being made in-house, this provided many learning
DI N E NE BRASKA .COM 11
6 DI N E M AGA Z I N E
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DINE AROUND NEBRASKA
8 DI N E M AGA Z I N E
ROPER’S BAR AND GRILL becomes a small town staple
A day trip to David City STORY AND PHOTOS BY NICOLE BUNTGEN In the summer of 2020, the idea to bring more life to small town David City, Nebraska, sparked interest in locals Marty and Kris Roper. On February 16, 2021, the Ropers turned their objective into a reality by opening David City’s first sports bar, Roper’s Bar and Grill. Roper’s has become a local favorite hangout spot, bringing a change of pace to the David City dining scene. The community has a population of just under 3,000 and holds fewer than 10 dining establishments for locals to grab a bite to eat. With limited food options, the Ropers knew there was a need for something more in David City. “We never really had the idea of Roper’s; we just knew we were going to start something, and it was going to be good,” Marty, co-owner of Roper’s, said. “If it turned out great, then even better. If it failed, we at least learned something. We weren’t afraid to fail, and I think that’s the biggest thing that helped us out with this.” Roper’s is not an average small town sports bar; it’s a niche dining scene that gives local residents what they want without having to leave town. Between big screen TVs to watch professional sports, superb bar food options, and nearly 70 different beer choices, Roper’s does not skimp on anything. Marty and his team take pride in supporting local. Roper’s carries a great deal of Nebraska-brewed beers and is the only business in David City where residents have the option to grab a brew outside of domestic. Marty said customers appreciate that there is a place in town with a variety of beer choices beyond what small towns usually provide. In addition to a diverse brew selection,
Roper’s also leaves mouths watering by serving up their staple food items. This includes reuben, chicken philly salads, and their legendary Big Fatty Burger. This colossal creation consists of bacon, cheese, crispy chicken, a hamburger patty, with lettuce, tomato, pickle and onion. Roper’s Bar and Grill is located 50 miles from the west side of Omaha, and 45 miles from the north side of Lincoln. Marty said his goal is to give the people of
David City what they want, offer the best service possible, and make Roper’s the next destination spot for those who live outside of town. “We’re absolutely ecstatic this is going as well as it’s going,” Marty said. “If you’re looking to get away from the hustle and bustle of Omaha or Lincoln, we’re not that far out of town. It’s a nice, short day trip, and there’s plenty of stops on the way here.” DINENE BRASK A .COM 9
DINE DISCOVER
COFFEE CRAWL
Latte from Hardy Coffee Co.
A closer look at Omaha’s local coffee spots
STORY BY KATY SPRATTE JOYCE PHOTOS BY CHRISTOPHER TIERNEY PHOTOGRAPHY 10 DI N E M AGA Z I N E
C
Baby macciato from Archetype Coffee
offee drinkers tend to live longer. It’s true; research points to a link between moderate consumption of coffee and a longer life span, according to a Harvard study. Lucky for Nebraskans, there are lots of ways to get a caffeine fix on a local level. Omaha’s coffee scene is vibrant, healthy, and even expanding, with a number of interesting, home-grown shops. One of these is Zen Coffee Company, which focuses on serving a cup of joe with a purpose. This community-first
Cold brew and iced matcha double cup from Zen Coffee Company mindset was built into the fabric of the business from the onset, due to owner Abby McLeay’s nonprofit background. “I wanted to create something based [on] community while serving good coffee, where we could give back to organizations and have the choice of choosing local organizations to work with,” she shared. Zen also leads with education, at both its initial Farnam Hill locale, as well as a newer West Omaha spot. McLeay and company aim to demystify specialty coffee for their consumers, giving people of every coffee background—whether a newbie enthusiast or bean aficionado—an option to have exactly what they want. “We want people to feel comfortable [enough] to
Archetype Coffee DINENE BRASK A .COM 11
DINE DISCOVER ask us what a cortado or pour-over is and allow us to teach them more about different types of coffee, different methods of coffee, and all the varieties they can try—but we want it to be approachable,” she said. Atmosphere is a key factor in Zen Coffee Company’s success, as well. Fresh flowers on the tables, the smell of coffee in the air, a warm hello from a staff member, and curated background music all add to an air of hominess. Supporting other area companies adds to the community vibe, so even though the shop transitioned to baking most everything in house in 2020, it still sources locally whenever possible. Vendor partners include Ted & Wally’s, Artemis Teas, Bagel Bin, and All About Bees, though regular popups and events provide a platform for even more community collaboration. McLeay summed it up, adding that “Community is #1, [and] a coffee shop is the perfect place to create community.” Zen fans can look forward to an upcoming debut of toast flights to complement its popular coffee flights, which went viral earlier this year and have remained a top seller. Best-selling offerings include the Honey Bee and the Belgian Waffle Latte, plus McLeay’s longtime favorite, an Oat Milk Cortado. A fun fall drink menu is expected this year, as well as an expanded food menu with more vegan and glutenfree options. Bakery beginnings led to another Omaha coffee juggernaut, Hardy Coffee Co. Owner Autumn Pruitt and her husband Luke opened a small bakery over a decade ago, initially subleasing a teeny storefront, then partnering on a more expansive space with Aromas Coffeehouse in the Old Market. Eventually, they had the chance to purchase the coffee shop. “We shared an address and were always associated with each other, but it wasn’t until this transition that I really dove into coffee headfirst and had the chance to cast a vision for the full menu of items and kind of customer service and experience that we wanted to provide,” explained Pruitt. Since then, a rebrand inspired by Pruitt’s maiden name (Hardy) and two additional brick and mortar locations (Benson and North Omaha) have increased the Hardy Coffee Co. footprint. They now roast their own coffee, as well as over 30 wholesale accounts, though the bakery aspect remains a key factor in Hardy’s 12 DI N E M AGA Z I N E
Zen Coffee Company
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DINE DISCOVER
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Ryan and Abby McLeay, owners of Zen Coffee Company
Flight from Zen Coffee Company
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DINE DISCOVER success. Pruitt said, “In a lot of ways, our bakery is still at the heart of our business. And, thankfully, coffee and baked goods pair really well together.” Cinnamon and pecan rolls remain the most purchased breakfast items. “The bakery team is also responsible for a lot of the fun ways we highlight different drinks by crafting so many unique syrups and sauces in-house.” This allows the business to change up the menu seasonally based on from-scratch offerings. Some inventive favorites from the past year include a maple cardamom latte, rose chai, honey nut café au lait, ruby red rosemary cold brew, and pineapple jalapeño sparkling limeade, among others. Pruitt, who keeps it simple with her love for a great cup, said, “Right now, I’m starting my days with a naturally processed, single origin from Afonso da Silva in Brazil.” The shop aims to provide coffee that is both excellent in terms of origin but also showcases different growing regions, processing levels, and roast levels so customers can choose what they prefer. A solid place to start is the Benchmark Blend, which is sourced specifically to function well as a drip, cold brew, and espresso and consistently ranks as a best seller. Looking to the future, Hardy will be expanding this season, with a new drivethrough concept in southwest Omaha, “because it doesn’t always work to stop in at a local coffee shop...and you shouldn’t have to choose between good coffee and convenient coffee,” the coffee connoisseur said. Another impressive member of the Omaha coffee club is Archetype Coffee, which also boasts its own roasting operation. What started with the original Blackstone location has now expanded to include a Little Bohemia iteration, with a third to come in the Millwork Commons development in North Downtown. “It’s exciting being a part of such a historical building,” owner Isaiah Sheese shared. Archetype likes to call its approach to coffee “American-Scandi,” taking inspiration from the Scandinavian coffee scene in Norway, Denmark, and Sweden. “This means that we don’t really think about light or dark roasting, but take the approach of trying to bring out the amazing inherent flavors of the coffee without people tasting roast. We want to showcase the country, region, varietal, processing, and the farmer growing it,” explained Sheese. This Scandi sensibility 16 DI N E M AGA Z I N E
Latte from Hardy Coffee Co.
Coffee and pastries from Hardy Coffee Co.
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DINE DISCOVER
Cold brew from Hardy Coffee Co.
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Autumn Pruitt, owner of Hardy Coffee Co.
Hardy Coffee Co.
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DINE DISCOVER Archetype Coffee
Latte from Archetype Coffee
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Matcha latte from Archetype Coffee
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DINE DISCOVER
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Isaiah Sheese, owner of Archetype Coffee
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DINE DISCOVER Banana bread from Archetype Coffee
extends to the atmosphere of the shops, as well, with intentionally open and airy design. Archetype also stands out for its competitive nature, as team members enjoy pushing themselves to better their craft. Sheese himself placed 5th in the United States Barista Championship last year. Another barista, Paul Menefee, earned 4th place in the Brewer’s Cup Championship, and roaster Jason Burkum took part in the finals of the U.S. Roasting Competition and Cup Tasters Competition. Those interested in trying out some Archetype heavy hitters should sample Sheese’s favorite batch-brewed coffee, which rotates regularly. Other top sellers include pour-overs, house-made chai, and a traditional macchiato. A recurring Nice Rollz popup, the Asian-fusion hit that was featured in the Winter 2021 issue of Dine Magazine, also delights with K-griddle Breakfast Sammie and Korean Egg Bread. Additionally, Donut Friday featuring Olsen’s Donuts remains a tradition at Archetype’s Blackstone locale. Omaha’s coffee scene remains a vital component to the local food and beverage field—and overall community. 24 DI N E M AGA Z I N E
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Glacial Till Vineyard & Winery
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DINE WINE
Seasonal favorites at GLACIAL TILL VINEYARD & WINERY
Hard ciders and wines Crisp, cool, sunny autumn afternoons are perfect for leisurely Nebraska day trips, and Glacial Till Cider House and Tasting Room is a relaxing spot to meet friends for shopping, a drink, or a bite to eat. Nestled cozily on historic Main Street in Ashland, Nebraska, customers can sample ciders while perusing Chef Alison Hill’s stunning seasonal food menu, highlighting the bounty of fresh vegetables and herbs harvested from the winery garden. Owned and operated by the Murman family, the business began with a few grape vines planted on an idyllic spot of land near Palmyra, Nebraska in 2003. After early success with wine, they encountered a wee bump in the road in 2014, when a frost made for a challenging harvest. An open tank beckoning, the production team considered fermenting hard cider – the gluten-free drink was growing in popularity – so they ventured up the road to Kimmel Orchards, from whom they sourced fresh-pressed, raw cider. The first few batches were introduced on Fermented Fridays at the winery, as well as outdoor festivals and events. The hard cider offerings proved immensely popular and today the fermented beverage is canned and kegged for sale throughout the region. Myriad flavors, both static and seasonal, are offered in flights or by the glass, and customers often
STORY BY ANNA HARTMAN PHOTOS COURTESY OF GLACIAL TILL VINEYARD & WINERY
sample a mix of both wines and ciders. Fall brings the crazy-popular Caramel Apple cider, and the team has been experimenting with drier, hopped ciders using Cascade hops. The Gold Standard Cider Club offers four cider 6-packs per quarter to its members, including access to limited release “club only” flavors. The Ashland tasting room expanded in 2019 to better accommodate both public and private events, retaining beautiful stained-glass windows and exposed brick, while adding a gorgeous rooftop patio and reclaimed wood tables. Craig Murman, responsible for both the cider can label design and the mouth-watering photos seen on social media, is eager to welcome visitors, “We are ideally located for friends from Omaha and Lincoln to meet in the middle. The vibe here is lively, and we love to see the smiling faces and excitement when guests try new flavors.”
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DINE SPIRITS
NITE OWL brings creative taste to Omaha
Craft coffee cocktails In 2014, Noah and Kimberly Mock opened their unique Blackstone joint, Nite Owl, a self-service spot with velvet paintings lining the walls, a sunken bar, chairs reminiscent of 70s Naugahyde, and kitschy movies playing above the liquor shelves. At the time, Omaha lacked many dark, pseudo dive bars, and even fewer that served tasty late-night food and beverages. Inspired by the owners’ time living in cultural hot spots Portland, Oregon and Austin, Texas, the cocktail menu at Nite Owl is creative, but a special affinity for daiquiris led Noah to procure a slushee machine shortly after opening. The resultant concoctions were an immediate hit and remain the top-selling cocktail style. “Marcy (the mixologist) is the slushee queen,” Noah shared. The team relishes experimenting with flavor combinations inspired by seasonal ingredients and bartender whims. Just down the street from Nite Owl stands the original Archetype Coffee, owned by Isaiah Sheese, expert small-batch coffee roaster and barista. “Isaiah is insanely educated on coffee,” Noah said, “it’s great to work with the best coffee in town.” A typical Irish coffee combines hot coffee, Irish whiskey, and sugar, topped with a float of freshly whipped double cream. The coffee slushee at the Nite Owl riffs on this traditional formula, featuring Archetype
STORY BY ANNA HARTMAN PHOTO BY JACOB GREVE
Coffee cold brew, Tullamore Dew, coconut milk for richness, and vanillin bitters for balance. The cold brew brings depth and complexity due to the unique sourcing and roasting process employed by Sheese, and Irish whiskey distilled in Tullamore, Ireland, lends both sweetness and authenticity. To accompany the cocktails, the Nite Owl serves all the late-night foods Noah typically scarfed down post shift in his early industry days, including the famous Tot-Chos. The team at Nite Owl makes it a priority to work with local purveyors for ingredients where possible, including Coneflower Creamery ice cream, Culprit bread, Imperial Farms Wagyu beef, Tea Smith, and a wide variety of items from Jon’s Naturals. What keeps the team motivated? According to Noah, “Coming together with friends and creating something amazing. We want to create a safe space for everyone in Omaha to relax and enjoy.”
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DINE BEER
FIRST STREET BREWING COMPANY talks coffee and craft beer combos
A perfect match If one ingredient could be added to a craft beer outside of the four main ones (water, malt, hops, and yeast), what would it be? For coffee lovers, this might be a very easy question. Immediately, the image of a bold, dark-roasted coffee blending with a soft, silky body of a stout, would most likely enter their minds. Beyond stouts, some might wonder if there are other styles of beer that blend well with coffee. To answer that question, it’s best to engage someone who loves coffee and brews craft beer, like Nathan Hoeft, the head brewer of First Street Brewing Company in Hastings, Nebraska. He and his wife Jessi founded the brewery in 2016. Like many other coffee enthusiasts, Hoeft finds the time in the morning to enjoy a good cup of coffee or espresso. Close to the brewery is a coffee shop called the Art Bar. It was there that Hoeft discovered the Populace brand of coffee. One day, Hoeft decided it was time to create a Blonde Ale with Populace coffee. Lighter-colored styles are an interesting choice, but what happens to the color when coffee is added to it? Hoeft explained, “It is a delicate balance where I have learned techniques that allow the coffee aroma and flavor to be present without too much of the color.” The first batch of the coffee Blonde Ale
was well received in the community and named Popular Blonde. Hoeft thought that this would just be a seasonal beer, but patrons let him know that this was something they enjoyed year-round. The crispness of the ale with a touch of coffee and creaminess make it a favorite in the taproom. Then, in late 2019, Hoeft created five different variants of the Popular Blonde. One variant used was Clout Coffee out of Omaha, Nebraska, which is bourbon barrel-aged coffee. Another variant used Kona coffee from Mark Ferrari Specialty Coffees out of Oshkosh, Nebraska. Hoeft said that these two variants provided bolder coffee flavors. He added, “It is fun to experiment with different coffee to see the unique flavors come through.” Other styles of craft beer that coffee can be added to are Porter, Brown Ale, Cream Ale, and Kolsch. After giving it a try, many will agree that coffee and craft beer are indeed the perfect match. Cheers!
STORY & PHOTOS BY MICHAEL MEYER
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V. Mertz Executive Chef Amanda Sheeler
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DINE EXPERT
V. MERTZ Executive Chef Amanda Sheeler paves new paths for a local staple
Contemporary & classic elegance Amanda Sheeler, Executive Chef at the lovely, quaint V. Mertz, crafts pasta that is so perfect, guests have been known to nearly weep over the first bite. It seems she was destined to become a chef, cooking breakfast as a youngster with her Nonna, later bussing tables, and finally working under her late uncle Dino’s watchful eye in the kitchen at the family restaurant, Lo Sole Mio. As a member of her high school culinary competition team, Sheeler earned a scholarship to The Institute for Culinary Arts at Metropolitan Community College, where she excelled, honing her craft and forging relationships with fellow culinarians. After working her way up the ranks in the Omaha restaurant community in popular spots such as Ugly Duck, Avoli Osteria, and Modern Love, Sheeler found herself back at V. Mertz, working with Chef Jake Newton and General Manager Matt Brown, who together fostered a cohesive culture in the tiny kitchen, instilling in every staff member the confidence to embrace history and venture boldly in new directions. Now at the helm, Sheeler is grateful to continue this tradition of trust. Located in the Old Market Passageway, the establishment holds a special place in Sheeler’s heart. “I like the history; the space has a lot of charm, and the people who work here have a high level of dedication that they bring to the craft. Everyone holds each other accountable and wants to work toward a common goal in both the front and back of the house.” Sheeler calls her style modern and
contemporary but always grounded in dishes that are approachable for midwestern palates. Seasonal ingredients sourced from local purveyors find their way to the menu in creative, yet approachable ways, and innovation is encouraged – Sheeler prioritizes mentorship, and everyone is given time to discuss and execute ideas when feasible. Perhaps the most apt expression of seasonal delights is found in the chef ’s tasting menu, to which all cooks are encouraged to contribute. Sheeler is clearly a proud leader, happily crediting the individual who developed or inspired a particular dish. To wit: the kimcheese tart, an ingenious creation found on the chef ’s tasting menu this past summer, was the brainchild of one of the sous chefs, Natalie Ones, resident preservation guru. The V. Mertz kitchen is pushing the boundaries even further by developing house-made beverages such as rhubarb
STORY BY ANNA HARTMAN PHOTOS BY TENDENZA FOOD STYLING & PHOTOGRAPHY AMANDA SHEELER’S
PA S S I O N
V. MERTZ 1022 Howard Street (402) 345-8980 www.vmertz.com schnapps, mead, and kombucha. Sheeler’s goal is to cook relatable food—ingredients guests can connect to a memory—but a composed dish that might be unfamiliar or unrecognizable on the plate when it arrives at the table. “We love to present dishes in a way that is outside the box,” she explained. “Time, place, and smell… all the sensory things are there with food.” Working with a team of food lovers and exuberant learners, Sheeler is reminded daily that inspiration can come from casual conversations during a shift, treasured memories, or individual experiences. It’s evident that mutual respect is de rigueur in this space, individuals coming together as one to ensure a seamless guest experience.
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DINE SCENE
WONTON JON’S adds new layer to the scene
FOOD TRUCK
FRENZY STORY BY KATY SPRATTE JOYCE PHOTOS COURTESY OF WONTON JON’S
“W
ontons are the perfect vehicle for food,” according to Jon Stastny, proprietor of Wonton Jon’s food truck. A born and bred Omahan and former business to business salesman, Stastny has always loved entertaining and his favorite thing to do is feed people. He channeled this interest into a business plan for his now eponymous food truck, originally intending to traverse the nation hopping from music festival to music festival, combining his two passions of food and music. Stastny said that they were set to debut at some major events, like Backwoods at Mulberry Mountain Festival in Ozark, Arkansas and Dancefestopia just south of the Kansas City area. But, after a March 1, 2020 launch, Wonton Jon’s quickly had to abandon those ambitions due to the COVID-19 pandemic, much like the ingenuity shown by many other restaurants over the past year and a half. Their model pivoted to go where the people were, which unfortunately wasn’t at canceled concerts. It wasn’t even at traditional food truck favorite draws like breweries or large office complexes. Instead, Stastny and other area food truck owners spent more
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time in neighborhoods to accommodate customers working from home. He also embraced brunch with a popular breakfast burrito option, even offering pick up and delivery from their speakeasy-style drive thru set up, complete with online ordering. Now, in what he considers his first real season and as the world opens back up, Stastny is focused more on booking events like corporate catering and festivals. This makes up about 95 percent of his business these days, though Wonton Jon’s aims for
Jon Stastny, owner of Wonton Jon’s
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DINE SCENE
S’mores frenchee
one public event each week to get in front of new people. For example, the truck will be popping up every month at Kros Strain Brewery in La Vista, home of the famed Fairy Nectar IPA. To find the truck on every other day, customers can simply check online, as Wonton Jon’s updates the calendar on their website regularly with other public events and also shares their schedule on their Facebook page each week. Overall, Stastny enjoys being part of the fabric of the Omaha restaurant world, especially as a food truck operator. He described the comprehensive scene as “healthy competition,” explaining that it’s a vibrant and diverse community that’s partly competitive, but mostly helpful. In fact, Stastny said that this may not be very common, but he’s built relationships with a few other truck owners who have helped each other out in a pinch, even going as far as working in one another’s trucks when understaffed. “There are lots of kinds of trucks, from the longtime 24th street trucks with set locations to ones like us that move around a ton,” Stastny said. He believes Wonton Jon’s stands out amongst this varied crowd, partially because of the 36 DI N E M AGA Z I N E
The G.O.A.T.
S’mores french toast
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DINE SCENE
Signature wontons
menu set up: wontons are sold in flights of four and customers are encouraged to sample different offerings to get a variety of flavors all in one visit. Each wonton is a composed dish in itself, like the best-selling crab rangoon or number two favorite peanut butter chicken. Stastny is partial to the Carolina BBQ-inspired bite, “The Reaper,” though he said that their burger picks are also extra popular. For maximum creativity, Wonton Jon’s changes their main menu often, rotating in a Mexican street corn inspired elote option, the summertime smash strawberry goat cheese, and even a plant-based mushroom ceviche iteration. They haven’t quite let go of the popular brunch menu either—so those hungry for a biscuits and gravy wonton are in luck, as it’s still available at occasional pop ups and for special event catering. As for what the future holds, no one knows, but Stastny is looking forward to it. “The more I progress, the more opportunities present themselves, and I’m excited to see what the next few years bring. I’m just going to continue to follow my gut and try new things—that’s the beauty of having my business on wheels.” 38 DI N E M AGA Z I N E
Biscuits and gravy
Barrel aged for ambitious people
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RAISED & PROCESSED WITH LOVE MILLER DOHRMANN FARM supplies unique goods to restaurants, consumers
STORY BY HOLLY MCATEE PHOTOS BY CHRISTOPHER TIERNEY PHOTOGRAPHY
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I
t all began with a dream for Jen Miller and Kevin Dohrmann, who established Miller Dohrmann Farm in Ponca Hills after retiring from the corporate world to embrace a simpler, more fulfilling lifestyle. The married couple, who both grew up on farms in Iowa, started out with 12 acres, later doubling the size of their land. Today, they also rent nearby land bringing them to about 80 acres of farmland in total. Like both of their grandparents did before them, Miller and Dohrmann use a rototiller, allowing them to use fewer chemicals. They rotate their crops, growing small grains, vegetables, and alfalfa. The alfalfa, which helps rebuild the soil, adds nitrogen, and provides weed control, allowing the ground to rest. The couple also practices regenerative farming, meaning the roots of the alfalfa are deep and perennial, living in the ground and offering bacteria for wheat to take
advantage of the following year. Most days, it’s just Miller and Dohrmann working on the farm— Dohrmann primarily works in the field, while Miller works in the barn. When they are baling, on the other hand, they recruit friends to help with the labor. Last year, the farm was able to produce 2,500 bales of alfalfa. “The hardest part of farming is not knowing what the weather will bring,” Dohrmann said. “But, that is life.”
Jen Miller and Kevin Dohrmann, owners of Miller Dohrmann Farm DINENE BRASK A .COM 41
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Interior of barn
This year, the farm harvested winter wheat in July, growing a Heritage variety dubbed Turkey Red. The wheat has a desirable flavor, according to the owners, and they often take orders for the whole wheat, as well as local stone ground flour, which is made without bleach or preservatives. The farm, which also sells certain items online, offers popular products like sweet corn, basil, a variety of vegetables, honey, hominy, dried kernels, and wood products. Miller, who grew up canning alongside her mother, uses her expertise to offer various canned items to consumers, as well. Additionally, the operation grows Oaxacan Green corn, which Miller said makes an excellent masa for customers to enjoy. Miller Dohrmann Farm supplies to local restaurants including The Boiler Room, Dante, V. Mertz, Au Courant, Casa Bovina, Stirnella, Via Farina, Block 16, and more. The owners embrace the farmto-table concept and enjoy supporting local. “Eating is such an important part of our lives,” Dohrmann said. “You should 42 DI N E M AGA Z I N E
Honey made at Miller Dohrmann Farm
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Corn grown at Miller Dohrmann Farm
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Bee smoker
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Vegetables at Miller Dohrmann Farm
eat what you enjoy, including high quality local foods that are really good.” Traditionally, the farm harvests wheat, straw, and sweet corn in July. Each year, customers are also invited to the farm for a sweet corn feed to enjoy an ear of corn, hop on a trailer ride, and browse other products offered at the farm. Typically, about 400 to 500 people attend the event and roughly 1,000 ears of corn are sold. Any remaining corn is then blanched and frozen to be sold online. Throughout the fall months, Miller Dohrmann Farm also hosts various popup events. In September, the owners invite guests to enjoy an event featuring apple products from the 10 Heritage apple trees on the property. During the day, unpasteurized apple cider is also offered for attendees to taste. In October, a honey and woodworking event is held, followed by a Christmas-themed event in November, in which Dohrmann creates charcuterie boards for guests to purchase. Happy customers and positive feedback make any hard days on the farm worth it, according to the owners. The two especially enjoy spending their retirement working on the farm together. “We enjoy what we do,” Miller said. “It’s work. It’s 24 /7. It doesn’t always work out the way you want. But, in the end, it’s better than sitting in the office or in a meeting. Working with my husband—and best friend—gives us many more ways to grow together in knowledge and love.” 46 DI N E M AGA Z I N E
Wheat grown at Miller Dohrmann Farm
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1022 Howard St. Omaha, NE 68102 (402) 345-8980 www.vmertz.com
restaurant and wine bar 48 DI N E M AGA Z I N E
Tuesday - Sunday, open for dinner at 5:30 p.m.
EDGE M A G A Z I N E
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OCTOBER 2019
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OMAH A ENTRE 'S SAVVY PRENE UR JAMES MANS KE
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BE OUR GUEST LOCALLY GROWN Carla Gornall
Small Market Farming Certificate, 2020
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Degree and certificate programs in horticulture, land systems and management prepare students for a variety of careers that strengthen our community.
To learn more, visit mccneb.edu/horticulture.
Metropolitan Community College
HORTICULTURE, LAND SYSTEMS AND MANAGEMENT
. Community To view upcoming dates and hours of operation, visit mccneb.edu/bistro. Metropolitan College affirms a policy of equal
education, employment opportunities and nondiscrimination in providing services to the public.To read our full policy statement, visit mccneb.edu/nondiscrimination.
Metropolitan Community College affirms a policy of equal education, employment opportunities and nondiscrimination in providing services to the public. To read our full policy statement, visit mccneb.edu/nondiscrimination.