Dine Magazine Fall 2022

Hotdog Bun

Marble Rye Loaf

Sweet Vienna Loaf

Soft Potato Bun

Butter Brioche Bun

Rustic Hoagie

Wheatberry Loaf

Ciabatta Bun

Brioche Bun

DINE is published quarterly. Content copyright © 2022 DINE Magazine. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, without permission in writing from the publisher, Carole Sprunk. Although care has been taken to ensure the accuracy, completeness and reliability of the information provided, DINE assumes no responsibility therefore.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to DINE Magazine, PO Box 620, Elkhorn, NE 68022

Elevating the Nebraska dining experience

VOLUME 4, ISSUE 1 FALL 2022

PUBLISHER AND OWNER Carole Sprunk

(402) 587-2259 // Carole@DineNebraska.com

CO-OWNER

Michael Meyer (402) 517-0350 // Michael@DineNebraska.com

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Kathy Rygg (402) 490-3213 // Kathy@DineNebraska.com

MANAGING EDITOR Gabby Hellbusch (402) 320-7080 // Gabby@DineNebraska.com

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Nicole Buntgen, Anna Hartman, and Michael Meyer

DESIGNERS

Quentin Lueninghoener and Ben Vankat, Hanscom Park Studio (402) 517-1228 // Contact@HanscomPark.com

PHOTO STAFF

Christopher Tierney Photography // (402) 350-5699

Tendenza Food Styling & Photography

ADVERTISING ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Nicole Buntgen (402) 367-2526 // Nicole@DineNebraska.com

CONTACT US (402) 587-2259 Carole@ DineNebraska.com

PO Box 620 Elkhorn, NE 68022

ADVISORY BOARD

Brian O’Malley, Metropolitan Community College Institute for the Culinary Arts

Matthew Brown, Advanced Sommelier, V. Mertz

FIND THE FLATWARE!

Hidden in this issue is the image of a fork and spoon. Be the first to snap a photo of the flatware and share on Facebook and/ or Instagram and tag @dinenebraskamagazine

If you are the first one, you will win a $50 gift card to Zen Coffee Co. One entry per issue, please. Let’s share the love!

Letter from the editor

At Dine Magazine, our goal is to help our readers explore Nebraska’s diverse dining scene. Story after story, we showcase local businesses that are working diligently to create memorable experiences for their customers. In this issue, you’ll not only find extraordinary establishments to support, but you’ll get a behind the scenes look at the inner workings of your local food industry.

When it comes to style, recipes, and toppings, there are endless possibilities for pizza. In our cover story, the owners of Izzy’s Pizza Bus, Via Farina, and Copps Pizza Company share their special recipes and techniques for this delectable fan-favorite dish.

Sustainability has become a hot topic in recent years, as more people recognize the benefits. Later in this issue, we showcase how Hillside Solutions is turning trash into a resource through its recycling, landfill and composting services—helping many in the food industry keep a sustainable focus.

Food lovers and home cooks rejoice: Sur La Table is back to offering culinary classes and we have all of the details in this edition. Also in this issue, we venture to a Hastings community staple for our Dine Around Nebraska feature. Read all about why you need to plan a day trip to visit Odyssey in the near future.

Experience is not something that Chef Brooke Williams is lacking. Readers will learn more about her journey and her newest endeavors in our Expert profile.

Nothing says “fall spirit” quite like hard apple cider, and those at Vala’s Orchard Cider Co. know a thing or two about this tasty seasonal drink, which you’ll hear more about as you flip through the pages.

Prepare your tastebuds for even more, as we have additional thirst-quenching tales about Dundee Dell’s scotch whisky and E. & J. Gallo Winery’s broad selection in our beverage section.

The flatware hid on page 36 in the Beer section of the summer issue.

There’s something for everyone at Lula B’s Breakfast, Brunch, & Bar, and we have the privilege of sharing the business’s story in this issue. We hope you enjoy these stories as much as we enjoyed crafting this issue. Thank you for joining us as we work to elevate the Nebraska dining experience.

Gabby Hellbusch Managing Editor

Beer & brisket

ODYSSEY introduces innovative cuisine to south-central Nebraska

Urban date night in Hastings

STORY BY NICOLE BUNTGEN PHOTOS COURTESY OF ODYSSEY

As the heat waves of summer fade away, Nebraskans welcome the crisp air and colorful foliage of fall. It’s a peak time of year for road trips, and plenty of hidden gems make up the state’s culinary scene. One enticing eatery offers an urban vibe with a personalized touch. Get ready for your next destination drive—south-cen tral Nebraska awaits.

In the heart of downtown Hastings lies Odyssey: a fresh take on dining capturing worldwide influences through its evolv ing menu. The innovative establishment launched in January 2016 after several community requests for the city to offer more elevated dining options.

Within its exposed brick walls, Odyssey invites guests into a “date night in the Old Market” atmosphere through its industrial yet leathered look, adding “flair” to the space’s timeless interior. Owner Jamey Hamburger said he knew people longed for a high-end concept to come to town and recalled feeling left out due to the location of Hastings. “With everything going on in Lincoln and Omaha, we figured we would create something like that here,” he said.

Welcoming an exquisite concept like Odyssey into the small city of Hastings played in Hamburger’s favor. Between incomparable prices and individualized guest experiences, the compact communi ty allows for less overhead and more cus tomization than it would if the business was in the Metro. Known for its excep tional customer service, the well-trained staff is educated on all of the restaurant’s offerings; including how foods are sourced through suppliers such as Morgan Ranch and Little Town Gardens.

Whether it’s a small plate of Parmesan Truffle Chips, gluten-free Crab Cakes

secured by shredded potatoes, or a com posed entrée plated by Executive Chef Tomy Alvarez, the fine fare crafted, served, and enjoyed at Odyssey only encompasses one of the many components the restau rant offers. On top of Odyssey’s regular crowd from Hastings, many people from Grand Island and Kearney also frequent the restaurant on the weekends.

Dining experiences like Odyssey continue to captivate the food communi ty. Regardless if one resides in town, the

restaurant’s enticing experience offers the perfect excuse for a road trip to Hast ings. Hamburger said he has received an overwhelming amount of support since opening, and the staff ensures they do everything they can to make guests feel safe and accommodate their needs.

“People want a dining experience like they see on television,” he said. “There’s a lot of good people out here that like great things, and I’m glad that we can provide that for them.”

Grilled ribeye cap over coconut rice with scallops and peanut curry sauce

A CLASSIC COMFORT

STORY BY NICOLE BUNTGEN

PHOTOS BY CHRISTOPHER TIERNEY PHOTOGRAPHY

Of all the flavorful foods in the world, there may be one that unites us all. Invented by the Italians, mankind has taken one dish by storm with its undeniable, palatable perfection. Whether it’s a game day on the weekend or a 3 a.m. voyage to the fridge, one classic food’s flavors boast versatility from the way it’s cooked to how it’s consumed. Make way for pizza: a global phenomenon that the Cornhusker State has perfected through tantalizing techniques and a serious amount of

crispiness.

With so many elements involved in the world of ‘za, the beauty behind it starts with the exterior. Crust lays the foundation for these pies, whether it’s the consistency or texture, and the process taken to assemble dough can distinctively alter the overall taste. Kris Copp, coowner of Copps Pizza Company with his father, Bill Copp, credits dough, cheese, and sauce as the most important aspects to a solid, savory slice of pizza. The family-friendly staple hosts two locations in Omaha, adjusting dough recipes between stores to ensure a consistent cut is delivered each time. To certify a crispy bottom crust, Kris Copp said every step in

Savor the sizzle of Omaha’s elevated pizza scene

Via Farina

10 DINE MAGAZINE Izzy’s Pizza BusCopps Pizza Co.

Super Supreme pizza at Copps Pizza Co.

Kris Copp, co-owner of Copps Pizza Co.

Crab Rangoon, Super Supreme, Deluxe Nachos, and Pork Burnt Ends pizza at Copps Pizza Co.

West Omaha location

the dough-making process is followed— from the way it’s stretched, to how it’s balled, to how it’s rolled out. The humid climate of the Midwest causes dough to react differently, so seasonal alterations to the recipe enable Copps to carry out an invariable dining experience.

Branding dough as its main element, Izzy’s Pizza Bus treats this pastry as a delicacy. A notable Detroit-style pizza boasts a thick, crunchy crust with an overflow of melted cheese cascading from top to bottom. Using a three-flour blend to obtain the best flavor profile, co-pizza slingers Brett and Cherish Geiger unveil meticulous attention to detail through their square-shaped specialties delivered straight from their mobile pizzeria. The former Las Vegas residents credit the original taste behind these pies to the pans they’re baked in, aiming for a fluffy and light rise in the crust framed with crisp, caramelized brown edges. The 25-minute oven method requires a higher hydrated dough, like that used in Sicilian pizza, to allow for a seamless rise crust.

While some pies take time to mold into mouthwatering delicacies, other styles offer an accelerated approach. Via Farina takes blazing to its core, firing up the oven to 800 degrees, resulting in an airier texture. Although traditional Neapolitanstyle pizza does not use sourdough crust, Co-owners Ethan Bondelid and Paul Kulik credit the use of this dough to the “signature tang” it carries. The Omaha eatery employs an Italian wood-fired approach by blasting bread inside a brick oven for a mere 90 seconds. This fast and fiery technique makes for a slightly charred crust, with a texture that’s crispy on the outside yet light on the inside. The “leopard spots” that plaster the pies derive from the scorching temperatures they’re baked in, adding an array of textured char marks around the exterior.

A fresh blend of tomato sauce paired with the gooeyness of cheese makes for a compact flavor. Only fresh mozzarella is permitted for Neapolitan-style pizza, and Via Farina’s wood-fired approach exquisitely blends its sauce and cheese to create a more prominent pie layered with taste, craft, and simplicity. Izzy’s dabbles in mozzarella, but focuses on white cheddar blanketed with Wisconsin brick cheese, which is a traditional topping for Detroit-style pizza. Steering away from the customary “racing stripes” tomato sauce design, Izzy’s sauces each pizza with

Super Supreme pizza at Copps Pizza Co.

Deluxe Nachos pizza at Copps Pizza Co.

Pepperoni pizza at Izzy’s Pizza Bus

Cherish and Brett Geiger, co-owners of Izzy’s Pizza Bus

The Geigers with daughter, Izzy

a percentage sign simply because they like the way it looks. These pairings make for a mouthwatering cheese melt that oozes over the edges, further caramelizing the crust. While some pizza concepts incorporate mozzarella and marinara, Copps ditches traditional red sauce and instead enhances flavors through its signature staple: cream cheese sauce. Due to his strong distaste for tomatoes, Kris Copp said this approach does not replace traditional sauce, rather, it offers a distinct type of pizza that packs quality flavor through made-from-scratch concepts. The way a pizza is topped can make all the difference in its presentation and taste. Portioning, measuring, and distributing ingredients evenly communicates the consistency, precision, and craft behind it. Take the savory yet sweet combo of chicken and waffles: a two-for-one deal that balances dinner and breakfast. The combination of these comfort foods is only one example of the many ways food lovers enrich their dining experiences, and Copps is no stranger to incorporating similar cutting-edge concepts. Serving as one of the restaurant’s featured menu items is the Chicken and Waffles pizza, alongside other popular picks such as Crab Rangoon and Pork Burnt Ends. Pushing the boundaries, Kris Copp said he and his team have fun creating “weird but unique” concepts with a goal of bringing out the “kid” aspect of pizza. “Not just the pizza, but the whole experience to bring

back nostalgia,” he added.

Many pies can be loaded with cheese and an assortment of meats, but Via Farina’s Neapolitan-style pizza presents a more simplistic style: few ingredients, minimal toppings, and intense flavor. Led by Head Chef John Rea, the “less is more” approach allows for the focus to be on crafting classic, quality pies garnished with signature pomodoro sauce, mozzarella, and basil. Although it’s common to sauce traditional pizza before its voyage into the oven, Detroit-style pizza says otherwise. Izzy’s tops its pizzas with signature red sauce after the pizza has cooked, serving as the topping to the zesty ‘za. The Geigers said using concepts they like and brainstorming how they can incorporate them into pizza makes for fun collaborations that challenge them to think outside the box. “Almost anything goes with bread and cheese,” Brett Geiger said. “I think that resonates no matter where you go—you can tailor it to the environment.”

Whether it’s a tasty treat or a way of life, the beloved pizza has captured hearts around the world. There’s something about a flattened, flavorful bread dough flawlessly sauced and coated in cheese that makes one feel satisfied. Use your hands, fold it in half, grab a fork and knife—however you indulge, here’s to the craft, dedication, and nostalgia behind the classic comfort food.

John Rea, head chef at Via Farina

Paul Kulik and Ethan Bondelid, co-owners of Via Farina

Salsiccia pizza at Via Farina

Wood-fired oven

Margherita pizza at Via Farina

COMPLETING THE CIRCLE OF SUSTAINABILITY

HILLSIDE SOLUTIONS

provides soil and waste solutions to local food industry

STORY BY ANNA HARTMAN

PHOTOS BY SHOOTTOFILL

Farm to table is no longer a one-way street for area eateries now that Hillside Solutions, an innovation born of a local sanitation company, completes the circle from farm to table and back again.

Gretna Sanitation began as a straight-forward waste management company offering landfill and recycling services to area customers, but the forward-think

ing entrepreneurial owners quickly decided to pave their own path by spawning Soil Dynamics, a commercial composting facility located near Ashland, Nebraska.

Not long after, the team realized sustainability was gaining popularity and landfill diversion was a desirable path, so they formed Hillside Solutions and be gan to focus on developing broad waste solutions for large clients.

In 2018 Brent Crampton, director of partnerships, decided to ride the wave of sustainability—the former night club owner felt a subtle but strong tug toward

nature, growing things, and sustainabil ity, despite no formal training or inter action with the industry. Eager to divert waste from the landfill and share Hillside Solutions’ story, Crampton further re fined a 12-step implementation process that helped guide customers toward their personal sustainability goals.

Soon, residential customers had access to industrial composting facili

Brent Crampton, director of partnerships at Hillside Solutions

ties, making it possible to turn their daily food and yard waste into the “black gold” of gardening, nutrient-rich soil. Home composting efforts have historically been limited to three types: vegetable, fruit, and yard waste with a common ratio: onethird nitrogen to two-third carbons. Meat waste is funneled to the landfill because it is difficult for a homeowner to gener ate enough heat to kill pathogens in the pile, and poisoned soil is worthless to a gardener.

Industrial facilities such as Soil Dynamics have the quantity and space to change the ratio while maintaining the proper pH balance. The waste piles are formed into regularly rotated windrows, creating a chimney effect where oxygen (critical to breaking down waste) is sucked through the bottom and filtered through the top.

The piles are kept at 50 percent moisture level to create an environment hospitable to the good microbial life but also kill weeds. After a month or two, organic material breaks down, raising the internal

Mulch pile

Soil Dynamics Downtown Yard

mulch

temperature to between 140–160°F, the sweet spot where pathogens and bad bac teria are killed but good bacteria thrive. The piles cure for about a year, and the resultant material is run through filters to remove plastic or glass.

Farmers, gardeners, and landscap ers can then purchase the product and disperse it. This rich matter reintroduces nutrients to the soil, in turn creating a hospitable environment for growing deli cious foods.

Restaurants are ideal customers because they often have a greater disposition to sustainability and are already striving to implement practices and follow protocol. A prime example is local farm-to-table eatery Au Courant, which changes its menu weekly, focusing on purchasing ingredients from local vendors such as Stream Meadow, an organic tomato farm in Papillion.

Earth Day Omaha 2019 event

Eco-friendly packaging

Stream Meadow purchases compost from Soil Dynamics to feed its tomatoes, which are in turn purchased by Au Courant where the team develops and executes fresh dishes and composts its waste. This waste is collected and turned into “black gold,” which is employed by Stream Meadow and the cycle continues.

Heirloom Catering is a local small business that keeps the cir cle even more intimate by using the soil in its own garden to grow the food, harvest the vegetables for use in original dishes, and compost food waste. Heirloom also serves as a Compost Club drop off site, providing a welcome community service.

Creighton University recently embarked on a large composting effort, reducing an estimated 85,425 pounds of carbon dioxide through the program. The educational institution donates 100 percent of the soil to local nonprofit farms. Crampton is proud to be involved, sharing, “This is just another way of helping commu nity, reinvesting in food systems in Omaha to help organic food remain accessible and equitable.”

The pool of customers who come to Hillside for solutions grows daily. Residential customers often share the common belief that climate change is a very real threat and desire to be part of a solution, and businesses have varied reasons for joining the program: to attract or retain talent, meet a demand from their customer base, or contribute to the community.

Residential customers automatically become members of the Compost Club, enabling them to share info with each other about how best to handle their waste until it can be deposited into one of the many drop off sites hosted by local business and other res idential customers. In addition, customers (currently over 1,000) are allotted three bags of soil, though many of them choose to forgo their allotment, donating it to nonprofit food organizations throughout the metro area.

To learn more about this cutting-edge program, for educational resources, a guide to eco-friendly eating in Omaha, and details about joining the program, visit www.hillside.solutions.

VALA’S ORCHARD CIDER CO.

embodies the spirit of fall

Connecting the past to the present

Vala’s Pumpkin Patch & Apple Orchard has captivated the hearts of many over the years by capturing the joy of fall in all of its attractions.

Kelsey Vala Donovan and her husband David were intrigued by the pos sibility of making hard apple cider. They had access to the orchard’s extra apples and could grow other cider-specific apples. The couple spent endless hours researching and getting formal training to prepare for their first cider release in the fall of 2020.

Vala’s Orchard Cider Co. was created and is unique because the apples are grown, pressed, and fermented on loca tion. The cider is only available during September and October, making it even more special to enjoy.

Kelsey Donovan’s culinary background plays an enormous role in the profiles of the ciders that range from sweet to dry. Below are a few examples of the 20 to 25 different flavors that will be available this fall, including a sweet (nonalcoholic) cider.

Goldrush Dry stands up to its name. At first, there is a slight bit of sweetness. The finish is nice and dry, creating a well-bal anced cider.

Tractor Jam is a sweet, blush cider with strawberry notes.

Witches Brew is a fruited cider con taining blackcurrants. Blackcurrant is a bitter little berry that provides beautiful

color and balance to the sweetness of the apples.

This fall, guests will be able to enjoy the cider in the new Cider Mill. The Cider Mill is a taproom that captures agricultural work in a new, fun way. The atmosphere is historical and nostalgic, including a cider press from the 1880s.

Kelsey Donovan said, “I wanted to high light the historical significance of cider and apples in America. Cider used to be the drink of America, with heirloom and cider apple trees planted all around the coun try. Prohibition severely impacted cider production, but the culture of families and neighbors pressing cider from their fall harvest remained. Everyone enjoyed the tradition of drinking some of the previous year’s hard cider during harvest. So with the Cider Mill, I wanted to embody that spirit, connecting past to present.”

Visit Vala’s to enjoy a glass of cider or take a bottle home.

Cheers!

STORY & PHOTOS BY MICHAEL MEYER

E. & J. GALLO WINERY

delivers wine for every occasion

Moments that matter

From Boones Farm Strawberry Hill to Pahlmeyer, E. & J. Gallo wines have been part of the fabric of many lives—from that first sip at a family holiday gathering to Tuesday night patio wines with friends. No matter the occasion, the steadfast winery’s goals shine through in their purpose state ment: We serve enjoyment in moments that matter.

The family-owned privately held compa ny is proud of the long-standing tradition of crafting quality wines, dating back to 1933 when brothers Ernest and Julio Gallo, sons of Italian immigrants, founded the Modesto, California winery.

Despite the high volume (the company sells over 75 million cases of wine in 100 countries each year), the original focus and care of the founders is evident in every step of the process, from growing to winemak ing, making this well-known winery a prominent leader in the industry.

Collaboration is another important tenet for the family—a 2020 partnership led to exclusive distribution and sales support for Maison No. 9, a French rosé developed in part by popular recording artist Post Malone.

The Gallo brothers’ commitment to sus tainable practices was de rigueur for the in novative pair long before it became vogue. Boasting 2,500 acres of vines in Sonoma,

the company ensures critical coastal wildlife habitats are preserved through its unique “50/50 Give Back” plan.

In keeping with green practices today, the beautiful building that houses its headquarters, completed in 2016, achieved LEED® Gold status by the U.S. Green Building Council. Further, since 2015, the company’s commitment to efficient energy use has resulted in a savings of more than 11 million kilowatt hours.

With a vast library of labels, including Apothic, Barefoot, Clarendon Hills, and La Marca Prosecco, there’s a varietal, blend, or bubbly to fit any occasion, taste, or budget. As the official wine sponsor of the NFL, E. & J. Gallo is also showing ardent tailgaters that wine is affordable, accessible, and eminently quaffable.

E. & J. Gallo wines are easily found in many retailers, bars, and restaurants throughout the state of Nebraska, so treat yourself and pick up a bottle or two today.

STORY BY ANNA HARTMAN

PHOTOS COURTESY OF E. & J. GALLO WINERY

DUNDEE DELL pours smooth Scotch Whisky

Water of life

In simple terms, single malt Scotch Whisky is a spirit distilled in Scotland, comprising malted barley and water, but the nuances detected in the Glencairn glass and on the palate are as complex and unique as the distillers and master blenders who create it.

Omaha’s Dundee Dell has fostered a journey of discovery for both whisky aficionados and those new to the elixir. Once boasting the largest collection in the Western hemisphere, the venerable institu tion changed hands in 2020 and reopened in 2021 with a cozy pub-centric menu served in a classy yet comfortable space.

Andrew Wilson, general manager, curates the several hundred bottles in the current whisky collection. The experienced bartender’s personal aha moment with Scotch was an Ardbeg 10-year offering where, “Everything just clicked, it was the first whisky that really made sense to me.”

The team at the Dell thrive on finding approachable and interesting whiskies for hesitant customers or recommending var ied resources for those who want to learn more about this spirit steeped in tradition. Another great place to learn more is tasting events. These events feature knowledge able, charismatic distributors who captivate audiences with stories rich in the world of

whisky.

Wilson, who believes there is a whisky for everyone, shared, “A lot of people like Scotch, they just haven’t figured it out yet.” It’s romantic—every distillery has a history and a fascinating story that draws drinkers in for more than just the booze.

Scotch also makes a delightful mixer, but Wilson shared that finding the right balance can be a challenge. “It is really interesting in cocktails because some characteristics are so bold they can’t be hidden, and other times the delicate notes that distinguish a whisky can be outshined by other ingredients.”

The adjoining Pine Room (whose mon iker was found on a menu from the early days of the establishment) echoes the vibe of a Midwest supper club, where patrons can enjoy a libation and quiet conversa tion. Both the Pine Room and a smaller upstairs venue are available for private parties, but patrons are always welcome to stop in for a peg or dram.

STORY BY ANNA HARTMAN

PHOTO COURTESY OF DUNDEE DELL

The LULA B’S experience beyond breakfast and brunch

A FAMILY’S DREAM COME TRUE

STORY BY NICOLE BUNTGEN PHOTOS BY TENDENZA FOOD STYLING & PHOTOGRAPHY

The word “family” is defined in many ways. Family can be those who grow up within the same household, co-workers who work closely together, or simply those who feel unconditional love and support toward each other. No matter the definition, it’s the care, compassion, and sincere appreciation for loved ones that exemplify what it means to be family. When a workplace has a group of individuals who carry each of these aspects, the synergy and connections they hold make for an environment built on inclusivity, encouragement, and a place they feel at home.

On June 1, 2021, the Capitol District welcomed the little hub of Lula B’s: down town Omaha’s newest eatery that infuses eclectic Mexican cuisine with traditional American breakfast and brunch. Working in the food industry his entire life, Joe Becerra realized he needed to venture beyond simply cooking for people at home; rather, he longed to share his family recipes with the community. With a collective dream to own his own restaurant, the

co-owner and head chef, alongside his family, now leads the restaurant’s kitchen and shares their recipes with Omaha locals and beyond.

The downtown building wasn’t designat ed as a breakfast and lunch spot, but Mike Moylan said he knew the Capitol District needed something exciting to complement the neighborhood. As co-owner and land lord of the space, Moylan said he strived for a concept with a family-feel culture in

a welcoming atmosphere. After meeting with Becerra and his family, Moylan said he knew they would make a great addition to the space. “Instead of them going to find another partner, we thought we would be the partner with them and their family,” Moylan recalled.

The vision for Lula B’s was determined early on by the team. Creating the busi ness’s personality together, the staff at Lula B’s bridged their values and backgrounds with the people they serve by establishing an environment grounded on inclusivity, support, and openness. General Manager Alyssa Roach said that the team never hesi tated to jump on Becerra’s family dream.

“We see them back there working hard and we follow them,” Roach said. “I see the smile on his face when he’s cooking. Joe will come out from the kitchen, stop, and look around in amazement that this is his restaurant.”

Like many businesses, opening during COVID-19 unfolded many difficulties and uncertainties, but the team stuck with the Lula B’s dream and created a culture that exemplifies its core values. Between an achieved family dream and an invigorating environment built on shared values and support, the family recipes served at the establishment carry a deeper sentiment on top of its authentic bursting flavors.

“You’re going to taste the love, which is why we have classic dishes you would find in Mexico,” Roach said. While the recipes may be sworn to secrecy, there’s one thing that’s well-known at Lula B’s—culture is everything.

Alyssa Roach, general manager of Lula B’s

Chef Brooke Williams

BROOKE WILLIAMS of Sunnyside dishes out new culinary concepts

A creative twist

From helping her mom prepare food for church banquets and ball field fundraisers, to her first job slinging Runza sandwiches, to creating delecta ble dishes for Block 16, to representing the United States in an international cooking competition, Chef Brooke Williams has proven herself an accom plished culinarian.

It seems preposterous now, but Williams doubted her skill in the beginning, putting off culinary school because she thought she “wasn’t very good at cooking.” Lucky for Omaha diners, she enrolled at Metropolitan Community College Institute for the Culinary Arts and learned not only classical cooking techniques but the confidence to trust her talents.

During her tenure at Block 16, Williams gained an ardent following, developing the well-loved Brooke’s Chickenwich, hosting creative themed popups (Midwest Mom’s Casseroles, The Office), and combining unlikely ingredient combos in ways that evoked enthusiastic expletives with every bite.

Today, the creative cook still revels in developing new recipes and coming up with outlandish, surprising combinations. “I like to focus on compact flavor, getting crunchy, salty, sweet, sour, savory, and umami into every layer of every bite.”

Few things make Williams happier than watching someone try a dish, utter words of joy, and mutter, “ooh I see what you did here” or “how did she do that?” then proceeding to eat the whole thing because it’s well worth it.

Still, Williams learned quickly that when developing a new dish, pickup consideration is paramount. For example, if cooks on the line are plating myriad dishes simultaneously, 20 touches (the number of times line cooks and expos add something to the plate) are not going to be feasible in a tiny kitchen or with

inexperienced or new personnel. Her advice? “Really consider whether or not you can pull it off when you’re in the weeds without making your line cook want to cry.”

As a line cook, Williams learned a lot about being organized when working the so-called “fourth station” at Block 16. She shared, “You have to stay organized or you will suffocate, there’s no shame in asking for help, either.”

A voracious learner, Williams is never one to shy away from a new opportunity. She’s certainly caught the competition bug and does not discount the possibility of continuing should the chance pop up. Though she jokingly described the competition world as “a toxic relationship you just can’t quit,” she cherished the experience and readily admits gaining a vast amount of knowledge, even when things didn’t go as planned.

In her new role as head chef at Sunnyside and Site-1 Elkhorn, Williams relishes new challenges while drawing on past experiences. Her approach is simple: “I want to empower employees, especially when they come up with new ideas. Empowered employees are usually happy people.” She is keen to let staff roll with new ideas because “chances are the dish will be awesome.”

As head chef, she strives to foster a collaborative kitchen mentality, explaining, “If one messes up, it’s all of us, there’s no blame, we work as a team.” The open kitchen at Sunnyside/Site-1 is brand new,

STORY BY ANNA HARTMAN

PHOTO BY TENDENZA FOOD STYLING & PHOTOGRAPHY

SUNNYSIDE ELKHORN 2611 N 204th St. Suite # 102, Elkhorn 531-721-2891

www.sunnysideomaha.com

something several staff have never had the luxury to enjoy. These factors all help keep staff honest and accountable. “It’s our baby and we want to take care of it.”

Not every day is full of creativity—when ideas and dishes start to stagnate, Williams encourages employees to seek out new flavors and foods to tantalize their own taste buds. According to Williams, old is new again when it means putting out innovative or surprising dishes, “Pull from nostalgia, bastardize classical techniques, turn hollandaise into mayo. Take an old idea and put a new spin on it—break the rules but keep the technique.”

As for what’s next, Williams prefers not to plan too far ahead because interesting opportunities are often just around the corner. For now, she’s content to be part of opening two groovy new spots, exposing a different part of town to unique flavor combinations and textures, and thrives on the chaos on the line during a busy service. That’s what keeps her coming back to the kitchen day in and day out.

BROOKE WILLIAMS’ PASSION

SUR LA TABLE offers culinary classes to those hungry for knowledge

TIME TO GET COOKING

STORY BY ANNA HARTMAN PHOTOS COURTESY OF SUR LA TABLE

Sur La Table is a food-lovers dream shop full of tools and gadgets, quality knives, unique ingredients, and tableware for every imaginable dish, but in the back of the store lies a sparkling teaching kitchen helmed by local chef instructors ready to impart their knowledge to eager home cooks.

The classroom space is open, bright, and clean, equipped with worktables, a reachin cooler, dish sinks, a six-burner cooktop, and a new Vulcan range. Small appliances are readily available for student use, providing timely opportunity to try new gadgets. Prior to class, the chef instructor and kitchen assistant efficiently prepare ingredient mise en place and equipment for an upcoming cooking experience.

Sarah Xiong, culinary lead, has been a chef for over 15 years, perfecting skills in

sushi preparation, vegan cuisine, pastry, breads, and more. A past stint at local nonprofit No More Empty Pots combined with her expertise and fondness for all things food made teaching feel like a natural progression. So after years in a professional kitchen, Xiong accepted an instructor position at Sur La Table. Unfortunately, it wasn’t long until a global pandemic shuttered the doors. Thankfully, the store weathered the storm and reopened this past spring to hordes of

Students enjoying a culinary class

home cooks hungry for knowledge.

Xiong loves to teach and feels that, fundamentally, every person should know how to cook because eating is integral to healthy bodies and minds. “We might as well do it well,” she joked. The accomplished cook fondly remembers childhood meals with her large family, talking, laughing, and sharing over simply prepared, delicious food.

This feeling of camaraderie is echoed in the group classes, evident by the smiles and chatter heard even before introductions begin—shared interest makes for easy conversation. As class commences, students form groups (the space accommodates a maximum of three groups of four), and the chef instructor outlines the daily menu.

During an Italian al Fresco class on a lovely Sunday afternoon, Chef Bryce Coulton discussed the dessert the group will be making. When Coulton asked, “Who has made this before?” students smiled and shared their experiences as they got their hands dirty mixing tart dough. Tips about dough texture, proper cling film wrap technique, and the way the humidity affects flour are noted on

Students add toppings to donuts

Macarons

Sur La Table cooking student

Cream-filled donuts

recipe packets, and students resume friendly banter peppered with questions for the chef.

Class subjects and materials are developed at the corporate level, but chefs are given autonomy to adjust on the fly, particularly when their expertise aligns with a science lesson to impart. “I want students to leave here learning at least one thing, even if it’s just to remove the Saran Wrap successfully,” Xiong half-joked.

As with any hospitality-focused endeavor, staffing is an ongoing challenge, so Xiong is constantly looking for local chefs who love to teach and kitchen assistants with an affinity for food and willingness to learn. According to Xiong, the current slate of instructors work well together, learning from each other and pitching in when needed. She is proud of the functional, positive, and supportive environment fostered here, based on learning and growing rather than on a hierarchy.

The kitchen has been buzzing since the shop reopened in May. Summer kids camps and classes were wildly popular, and date night courses focused on regional cuisine, such as French Luxury, Italy al Fresco, and Summer Thai Kitchen, sold out quickly.

“We continue to grow steadily, with the best advertising coming from the word of mouth of repeat customers,” shared Xiong. The class provides a perfect opportunity for shoppers to “try before they buy” using the tools and appliances sold in store, and students receive a 10 percent discount if they choose to purchase store items or future course registrations on the day of the class.

Single session classes range in price from $59 to $99, and patrons get the chance to enjoy eating what they create. Outside designated kids camps and courses, those between the ages of 14 to 17 must be accompanied by a paid adult, and the team also offers private classes upon request.

Existing courses sell out quickly, so visit the store or check the online calendar, as more classes will be added each month: www.surlatable.com.

Students attend a date night cooking class

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Passion for Quality

From our humble beginnings, the hallmark of our company has been an unwavering commitment to quality.

By taking the utmost care through each and every step of the grape growing and winemaking process, we are able to consistently deliver world-class wines, spirits, and other alcoholic beverages for every occasion.

www.gallo.com